AsiaLIFE HCMC July live music issue

AsiaLIFE volume 64

www.asialifemagazine.com

22 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

40 Sterling's Saigon A pretty mean bird

41 Quan Mama Lam

13 Street Smart: Nguyen

Tofu-centric dishes

Thien Thuat

42 Beach Bums

16 Q&A with Arlette Quynh -

Unique tacos

Anh Tran from Sรกn Art

43 Titi Hidden western food

18 Photo Essay: The Air Up There Bird's eye view of Toronto

on the cover

22 Saigon Live

storyboard

28 Frozen in Time History of two D1 monuments

32 Eco-City Dreaming Can Hoi An become an eco-city?

34 The Open Road The original Da Lat Easy Riders

36 Myanmar's Wild Beaches

44 Inside 14 Ton That Dam An odd District 1 building

46 Fashion: Out Of This World

A look at the city's music scene

30 A Dengue-Free Future

getaways

style & design

back

50 The List 74 Spotlight 76 Street Guide 84 Odd One Out A Saigon driving game

85 This Country Life 'Tis the season

86 Pub Quiz

38 Wine Lovers' Delight Napa Valley resort

18

42 Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

asialife HCMC 3

note from the editor Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia Managing Editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy Editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialife.asia

Editor-at-Large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Bob Marley once wailed that, “The one good thing about music, when it hits you feel no pain.” Marley clearly has never been to Saigon and listened to the agonizing monotony of cover bands here. Painful indeed. I’m certainty not alone in thinking that this city has a lack of quality original music. It’s a common-enough gripe among expats and locals, but most of us choose not to do anything about it. Instead we drain another glass of beer until ‘Hotel California’ becomes tolerable.

But luckily for music fans in Saigon, there are a growing number of people who aren’t willing to sit idly by as K-pop and cheesy love songs continue to dominate live music here. This month we speak to some of the bands that are trying to create a quality or, at the very least, an entertaining live music scene in Saigon. Vietnam has always had talented musicians — and that hasn’t changed — but there were previously few places for live bands to perform. Now more than ever, venues are opening that will not only help the local and expat scenes grow, but will attract more international acts as well.

We also sit down with some promoters who are working selflessly to bring in more quality musicians who they hope will give us something to dance to while at the same time inspiring more local bands to take to the stage. The shows that they have already put on have been spectacular. They tend to be intimate enough to where you can share a beer with the headliner, yet full of enough people to make it an exciting night.

Elsewhere in the mag, Matt Sipprell sheds some light on the history and legend surrounding the subjects of two of District 1’s more prominent roundabout monuments. Michael Tatarski also takes a look at a program, funded by the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, that is breeding dengue-free mosquitoes off the coast of Nha Trang. If scientists are successful, it could be the beginning of the end for the disease. A little farther north, freelance writer Katie Jacobs talks to residents and experts of Hoi An to find out if the plan to turn the historic town into Vietnam’s first eco-city — much like a live music scene in Saigon —is more than just a pipe dream.

4 asialife HCMC

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialife.asia Photographer: Linh Phanroy Editorial Intern: Ruben Luong

Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialife.asia

Chris Mueller

Regional Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Production Manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney Sales Cambodia: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia Associate Editor Thailand: Yvonne Liang Photo Editor Thailand: Nick McGrath Sales Thailand: Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming) Ming@asialife.asia

Next time you're in Cambodia or Thailand check out the latest content from AsiaLIFE or download it at:

www.asialifemagazine.com Find AsiaLIFE articles on

Renaissance is an International School offering places in Early Years - Primary - Secondary.

Apply as early as possible to secure a full-time place for your child.

2013-2014 Scholarships fund available of 9 billion VND for leading students.

NEWS

EVENTS

Quan Bui Turns to Fine Dining

The team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual eatery on the north edge of District 1, has opened a four-floor fine-dining restaurant downtown. Located at 17A Ngo Van Nam Street, the new Quan Bui offers chic design and ambience, as well as a rooftop garden. The more up-market venue should attract a new following among the expat crowd. For reservations, call 08 38 29 15 15.

6 asialife HCMC

Angsana Lang Co Summer Offer

Vietnam’s first world-class integrated resort, the Angsana Lang Co, is now offering a special deal for local residents.

Vietnamese citizens and resident expats can enjoy a rate of VND 2,520,000 net for a deluxe room. Opened in April, the Angsana features 229 suites, each of which has wide mountain, lagoon or sea views.

The resort also has numerous activities available, including jet skiing, parasailing, archery and mountain biking, as well as an 18-hole golf course. The special rate is available until the end of August and requires either a local ID or proof of work permit upon check in. Contact reservations-langco@angsana. com.

Hotel Nikko Wins TripAdvisor Award

The Hotel Nikko Saigon has been awarded a 2013 Certificate of Excellence by TripAdvisor.com, the world’s largest travel website. This is the second consecutive year

the hotel has been awarded this title. The certificate is granted to the top 10 percent of hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, based on reviews and ratings posted on TripAdvisor. The Nikko offers five-star service and products at reasonable prices, helping it garner highly-positive feedback from its guests.

Networking Night at Level 23

Every Thursday night Sheraton Saigon’s Level 23 Nightspot will host a networking event where people can connect with others to share experiences and build new connections. Located on the 23rd floor, the venue offers spectacular views over the city.

A special offer of either a 15 percent discount on the total bill applied to up to four people, or buy one get one free for groups of five or more, will be available on these nights. Visit Level23saigon.com for more.

New Wine Bistro Opens Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon, a wine bistro from the team behind Le Brasserie, has

recently opened in District 1.

The relaxed, friendly atmosphere makes this a perfect place to unwind for an after-work drink.

The bistro has two floors, with a large, contemporary bar downstairs and an intimate lounge filled with leather seating upstairs. Le Rendez-Vous features an extensive wine list and a French sharing menu, and a 20 percent off happy hour runs every day from 5pm to 7pm. The bistro is located at 9/A Ngo Van Nam Street, D1.

Da Nang Sandcastle Competition

Silver Sun Events is hosting the 2013 Sandcastle Competition on 28 July on Da Nang beach.

Teams of up to four people, including participants of all ages, can take part in the event. Each team will have a five-metre-long station to work in, and designs of all types are welcome. Prizes include up to VND 10 million, GoPro Hero 3 cameras, and more. To register, visit Silversuneventsvn.

Caravelle Wedding Deals

The Caravelle has announced special offers for summer weddings. The Early Bird offer includes a 20 percent discount, and weddings booked and guaranteed six months in advance will receive a further 20 percent off. A 15 percent discount is available for weddings between 7 Aug and 4 Sept with a minimum guarantee of 150 people. Finally, two free tables of 10 will be provided for weddings with a minimum guarantee of 200 people, valid until 30 Sept. For more information call 08 38 23 49 99 or email bqsales@caravellehotel.com.

Jewels of Ha Long Bay

com. The first 100 to register will receive a free sandcastle T-shirt.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Wins Coveted Award

Emeraude Classic Cruises has produced a 112-page narrative history detailing the adventure of a colonial French family and a history of paddle steamship. The Jewels of Halong Bay: A Tale of Adventure in French Indochina and a Curious History of the Emeraude tells the tale of three French brothers who tried to make a fortune in colonial-era Indochina. The Roque brothers lived in Indochina at a time of deepening French involvement, and the book combines these two threads into a rich story.

The Jewels of Halong Bay will be available to the general public this month.

Meet Kiko, ARC’s Pet of the Month

The International Hotel Awards 2013, recently held in Kualua Lumpur, gave the Sofitel Saigon Plaza the ‘Best Hotel Renovation/Refurbishment in Vietnam’s award. The renovation design was inspired by the shared heritage between Sofitel’s French heritage and Vietnamese history. The 286 newly refurbished rooms incorporate exotic details from the cultures of both countries, skillfully integrating colonial chic with colourful modernity.

This award acknowledges the beautifully crafted interiors that guests can now enjoy, providing them with a truly unique experience.

Rock, Paper, Scissors at Outcast

On 7 July Saigon Outcast is hosting a Rock, Paper, Scissors tournament that is open to all. The grand prize is VND 1 million, one pair of Converse shoes, a Converse T-shirt and cap, and loads of respect. The fee to enter is VND 20,000.

Registration begins at 3pm and the competition starts at 4pm.

Rounds will be best three of five, and losers will be punished in one of three ways: spin around three times, or drink a shot of lime juice or chilli vodka.

Independence Day at Hotel Equatorial

Kiko, aka Kee, is a gentle older dog with a puppy's heart. He is a German shepherd, probably around five years old, who has been with Animal Rescue and Care since March 2013.

Kiko is very friendly with both children and other dogs and is ready for a forever home. If you are interested, email ARC at arcfostadopt@gmail.com to schedule an interview. For more information or to learn about other animals in need of a home, visit Arcpets.com.

8 asialife HCMC

From 4 to 14 July the Hotel Equatorial is hosting a ‘Stars ‘n’ Stripes’ daily buffet with the cooperation of several US food associations. The buffet costs VND 840,000++ for adults, which includes free flow wine, beer and soft drinks. Half-price is applied for children from six to 12 years old, and kids under six eat free. During these two weeks the Orientica Restaurant will offer US lobster, imported beef, pork, chicken and seafood and more. At Flo Loung, tapas and US fries will accompany drinks during happy hour during this period.

Arsenal Football Comes to Vietnam

On 17 July English Premier League club Arsenal, one of the world’s most popular, will face the Vietnam national team at the 40,000 seat My Dinh stadium in Hanoi. Tickets will become available on 7 July.

The match is part of the club’s Asia Tour 2013, which also includes matches in Japan and Indonesia. Arsenal’s current lineup features world-class players like Lukas Podolski and Theo Walcott, giving football fans in Vietnam the chance to see some of the best in action.

For updated ticket information visit Arsenal.com.

Bloodsugar Politik to Rock HCMC

Bloodsugar Politik, an indie/ punk band from Myanmar, is set to play at Cargo Bar in District 4 on 12 and 13 July. The threemembers of the band have been performing together for a decade, mainly as the popular Yangon-based, Big Bag. While most of the songs are in English, Bloodsugar Politik is representative of Myanmar’s small but burgeoning music scene, which will likely grow as the country continues to open up. The time of the show, ticket prices and supporting acts have yet to be announced, but you can check Asialifemagazine. com/vietnam/ for updates.

Korean Air Bans Shark Fins

Korean Air has announced its recent policy to suspend the carriage of shark fins on its cargo flights in a bid to protect sharks, one of the globally endangered marine species.

Previously, Korean Air carried shark fins only under the condition that a valid CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) permit was fully obtained by the customer from the related national management authority.

However, recently there has been a series of global movements calling to ban the carriage of shark fins in order to support the global call for

protecting endangered shark species. Korean Air has recently reviewed its policy and decided to stop the carriage of shark fins aboard all its flights.

7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 or Asian Kitchen/Alley Cat, 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao. Email q4.info@ saigonsoundsystem.com for more info.

Loud Minority Presents Japandroids

New Executive Principal for AIS

Japandroids, the Canadian rock duo behind one of 2012’s best albums, Celebration Rock, will play in Cargo Bar on 21 Aug. The two-piece band started in 2006 and consists of Brian King and David Prowse. Originally intending to be a trio, the boys decided to forego the logistical nightmare of having a ‘lead singer’ and do it themselves. As a consequence, Japandroids are one guitar, one set of drums, and two vocalisers — essentially they are a twopiece band trying to sound like a five-piece band. Tickets are available now for VND 350,000 and can be bought through the Q4 box office at

The Australian International School has announced that Clive Keevil will be the new executive principal for the merged school of over 1,000 students from 40 nationalities, spread across three campuses in District 2. Keevil is an Australian, born and educated in the UK. Before coming to AIS, he was principal at GEMS Bolitho School in the UK and prior to that, was director of operations and strategy for GEMS Education in Dubai. He has also held principal positions in private schools in Australia and was the head of secondary at an international school in Malaysia.

Promotional Code: 020602 Mention this code at Norfolk Mansion to get 10% discount on our F&B services. Conditions apply. Valid until: July 31, 2013 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

asialife HCMC 9

Cambodia & Thailand News Download AsiaLIFE Cambodia and AsiaLIFE Thailand online at: www.asialifemagazine.com.

Cambodia Graphic Novel Launch

A new graphic novel called This Dog Barking – The Strange Story of UG Krishnamurti is set to launch at JavaArts in Phnom Penh on 9 July, a date that coincides with the birthday of cult thinker UG Krishnamurti. The book, created

by Cambodia-based expats Nicolas C Grey and James Farley, tells Krishnamurti’s story through highly detailed drawings and story-telling. An exhibition, running until 1 Sept, will feature a selection of framed drawings by Grey and a selection of materials on Krishnamurti. On 11 July, a reading and discussion with Grey will be held at 7pm. It will be moderated by curator Yean Reaksmey. For more information, visit Thisdogbarking.com.

British Embassy Celebrates

The British Embassy in Phnom Penh held a double celebration at the Intercontinental Hotel on 21 June to mark the birthday of Queen Elizabeth II and the 60th anniversary of UK-Cambodia diplomatic relations. Ties were formally established in 1950 and the Embassy first opened in 1953. The reception, attended

by Ambassador Mark Gooding, was organised by the British Embassy, with the support of Jardine Matheson, Prudential and Quantum Apparel.

Australia Pledges Money to Court

Australia has made a new pledge of AU$3.25 million to the international component of the Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia, its government announced on 18 June. "The ECCC hearings play a vital role in delivering justice for the Cambodian people, who endured unspeakable suffering at the hands of the 10 asialife HCMC

Khmer Rouge,” foreign affairs minister Bob Carr said in a statement. Kranh Tony and Knut Rosandhaug from the war crimes court said that the cash "will ensure that the international component of the ECCC will be able to continue its operations without interruption."

KeoK’jay Gets New Home

Fashion favourite KeoK’jay has moved from its former location on Street 240 to a new home on Phnom Penh’s riverside, near the junction of Street 110. The ethical label’s move was celebrated by a party on 20 June, which saw the city’s fashionistas come out in force to its new industrial-style surrounds

Alleged Threat to Monster Fish

Damming the main stream of the Mekong River could pose a significant new threat to the survival of the Mekong giant catfish, according to a new study commissioned by WWF. While the exact population of monster beasts is unknown, there could be as few as a couple hundred adults left. According to the study, the Xayaburi dam in northern Laos would prove an impassable barrier for the migratory giant catfish, capable of reaching up to three metres in length and weighing as much as 300kg. “A fish the size of a Mekong giant catfish simply will not be able to swim across a large barrier like a dam to reach its spawning grounds upstream,” said the study’s author and associate research professor at the University of Nevada, Dr. Zeb Hogan.

Dedication Reaps Rewards

The United States Agency for International Development (USAID) awarded certificates to 26 mid-career professionals for the successful completion

of a Program Evaluation Short Course in Phnom Penh. The objective of the six-month course was to strengthen the skills of Cambodian professionals in monitoring and evaluation practices in agriculture, food security, and nutrition. USAID Mission Director Rebecca Black acknowledged the hard work and joint efforts of the teams from Michigan State University and the Royal University of Agriculture, and commended the participants for their dedication and commitment.

Filipino Expats Celebrate Independence On 12 June, Filipino expats based in Phnom Penh celebrated the 115th Philippines Independence Day at Memphis Bar on the capital’s riverside.

The event, called INDIE PH, aimed to promote Filipino identity in Cambodia as well as helping the tourism programme of the Philippines. Featured acts included alternative rock band Adobo Conspiracy, indie post-punk band Jaworski 7 and musician photographer Leonard Reyes. Michael Coronel played Filipino classical music, known as kundiman, and Koro Pilipino, a choir that sings Filipino pop and traditional songs, joined the event.

Thailand Salmon Temptation at Dream Hotel

Flava Restaurant & Bar is offering a ‘Salmon Temptation’ promotion though the end of July. The offer includes a selection of healthy salmon specialities with market fresh ingredients, specially prepared by the restaurant’s executive chef. The choices can be cooked in a variety of ways, such as salmon teriyaki served with rolled rice, grilled salmon with spicy salad (laab salmon) served

with steamed jasmine rice, and the salmon steak burger with mixed salad and french fries. All dishes are served with rice or boiled potatoes and cost 189++ THB ($6.16) / dish. Served daily for lunch and dinner from 12.3011pm. Dreamhotels.com.

50 Percent Off Furniture

Casa Pagoda’s annual mid-year sale is on now at the popular flagship store in Bangkok.

Casa Pagoda is offering up to 50 percent off through 6 July on all furniture and home accessories. In order to create unique collections with multiple inspirations, the Casa Pagoda team travels around the world to find pieces that appeal to everyone, from retro, baroque, and pop to vintage living, Asian flair and European heritage, all with the best quality in mind.

Casa Pagoda is located at Sukhumvit Soi 45 and is open Monday to Sunday, 11am-8 pm.

For more information, call 02 258 1917.

Celebrity Chef at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok is showcasing the cuisine of one of Asia’s celebrity chefs, Justin Quek, at the hotel’s Lord Jim’s Restaurant from 8 to 13 July.

A well-known culinary icon, Quek started his career at the Mandarin Oriental, and has since redefined modern cuisine with stellar restaurant successes spanning from his native Singapore to Shanghai and Taipei. He dominated fine dining in Singapore for 10 years with his haute cuisine at Les Amis, which he co-founded. Classically trained, Quek mastered his innovative art in France’s most acclaimed kitchens. He was appointed personal chef to the French Embassy in Singapore in 1992 and now returns to the place where he first sharpened his knives. Mandarinoriental.com.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Going Trendy Located in Bangkok’s hip Thonglor area, with its colourful array of art galleries, funky boutiques, eateries and nightclubs, the brand-new Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit fits right in with its trendy environs. Officially opening this month, the 296-room hotel is all about lifestyle, as is witnessed by its stylishly decorated interior, intimate steakhouse and seafood grill, The District, and Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar. Located on the 45th floor, the bar will undoubtedly become a hit with hotel guests and locals alike, thanks to its spectacular views of the Bangkok skyline. The Thonglor sky train station is a short walk away.

For more information, visit Bangkokmarriott.com or call 66 27 97 00 00. - Ellen Boonstra

Secluded Romance The Angsana Balaclava, situated on the north-west coast of Mauritius, is a romantic, exclusive hideaway set on a pristine bay. The resort features 52 luxuriously appointed suites and villas, a number of dining options, an infinity pool, numerous watersport activities, and the award-winning Angsana Spa. Guests can also visit the Balaclava Conservation Centre, where they will learn about the Mauritian ecosystem, plant coral, and go on guided snorkels. Currently the resort is offering a honeymoon package that includes a tandem sky dive. Visit Angsana.com/en/balaclava/ for further details.

Bali Bliss By the end of this year the 261-room Chedi Sakala will open on Bali’s enticing Nusa Dua Peninsula. The resort is set to feature 247 suites and 14 private one- and two-bedroom pool villas, two swimming pools, a wellness spa, health club and lagoon bar. A Kids’ Club will provide fun for children while their parents explore the island’s famed coast, water sports and local attractions. The resort will also be able to host large events, with a large ballroom, high-end catering service and four private dining areas with beachfront views. The Chedi Sakala’s premier restaurant, the Sakala Bali, is already open and specialises in contemporary French cuisine. For more info visit Ghmhotels.com.

12 asialife HCMC

Street Smart

NGUYEN THIEN THUAT WORDS BY RUBEN LUONG

T3 DISTRIC

PHOTOS BY CHRISTIAN BERG

A District 3 street with everything from guitars to street food.

It would be misleading to think of Nguyen Thien Thuat as just one street. Spanning three main streets (Dien Bien Phu, Nguyen Dinh Chieu and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai), it is a gateway to alleys that could pass for streets of their own.

Home to mostly local families and very few foreigners, young and older generations of locals establish their own mini businesses from inside their alleys.

Other residents linger about or

gossip at nearby stalls, preferring the neighbourhood milieu to the main road.

Named after a revolutionary leader who led Vietnamese troops against French protectorates in the early 20th century, nowadays the main road is coined "music street" for its cluster of more than 20 instrument shops that dot its beginning. Farther down, behind convenience stores, pharmacies, salons, and the ocasialife HCMC 13

casional boutique, it becomes a gold mine for local street food. Roving vendors and food stalls seem to magically appear, anticipating their next hungry customer.

To get here, take Nguyen Thi Minh Khai from Tao Dan park towards Cong Hoa circle. Nguyen Thien Thuat is the last street on the right, before you reach the circle.

Binh Guitar 28 Nguyen Thien Thuat The guitar shops are hit or miss. They are often crammed, with suspended guitars covering every inch of available space, sometimes making it hard to examine and decide. It's best to research beforehand what you are looking for and to scout different prices. For foreigners who don't speak Vietnamese, make sure to go with someone who does to avoid confusion and overcharging.

A good starting point is Binh Guitar, where Luthier Binh has worked considerably with foreigners. While he also custom makes guitars using imported tonewoods, his shop offers acoustic, arch top, and

14 asialife HCMC

classic guitars, with low-end instruments starting at VND 1,000,000, and others costing up to VND 8,000,000.

Ban Co Market Corner of Nguyen Thien Thuat and Nguyen Dinh Chieu At Hem 213, the west end of Ban Co Market is a stampede in the mornings. Hordes of denizens dart in all directions, determined to get premium selections of meat or poultry while scouring crab, squid, eel, or prawn arranged in silver platters on the ground. The incessant chatter of bargainers fades towards the south end on the right, under low canopies down a narrow corridor. Walk through to the other side and sit amongst locals at Che Xuan for breakfast. The mi xao (stirfried noodles) and banh canh cua (crab noodle soup) are each VND 17,000. Continue to watch market-goers scrutinise fruit and knick-knacks over one of 14 selections of che, a sweet bean drink (VND 12,000). The suong sa hot luu che (coconut milk, jellied pomegranate seeds, mung bean, and white and green jellies) is a favourite among locals.

Nguyen Thien Thuat Housing Complex Hem 251 Nguyen Thien Thuat Down this left alley, a secluded hawker centre is a watering hole for local food. The fluorescent din of food stalls and steaming banh xeo (savory crepe), pungent bowls of bun mam (noodles in fermented fish broth), spicy oc (shellfish), and plenty more traditional dishes greet you at every corner.

Motorbikes barricade the homes, since many of the residents use the bottom floors for guest motorbike parking. It's easy to get lost, but the camaraderie of families socialising below high verandas usually takes you back to one of the main eating squares, where children play and music carts blast songs like Gangnam Style.

Yen's CC 14 Nguyen Thien Thuat A large industrial oven that fills half a room will catch your eye at Yen's, a small family-owned home bakery run by a jovial group of ladies. They constantly multi-task, tending to the oven while packaging large orders of small chocolate and tiramisu cakes. One of the ladies always manages to walk out to you as soon as you approach, smiling

and ready to send you off with plastic boxes full of bite-sized green tea, chocolate, and vanilla cupcakes, or addictive boxes of banh su, creme-puffs which cost VND 15,000 for a small box of 14.

Chi Ba Dau Hu 127 Nguyen Thien Thuat This charming, open-entrance lounge makes tofu fashionable.

It specialises in a motley of southern Vietnamese tofu desserts and soy milk drinks, with exotic syrups and flavours such as red bean, lotus, and tamarind milk. It's a compact space with wooden floor tables and pillow seating that line both ends of the room. A favourite social base among trendy university students, inside is colourful and artsy, with a wall painting reminiscent of a page in a children's storybook.

The menu is all in Vietnamese, but a safe go-to is the dau hu duong gung va nuoc cot dua (hot tofu pudding with ginger, sugar, and coconut milk), which costs only VND Get directions 10,000.

Arlette Quynh-Anh Tran The Berlin-born and Saigon-raised assistant curator of Sàn Art independent gallery shares her insights into the latest trends in local contemporary art.

By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Why are you interested in contemporary Vietnamese art?

First, Vietnamese contemporary art began quite late. It actually only started in the early 90s, so the artists here, they are very enthusiastic to learn new things and experiment. Second, because the art scene here has just started, there is actually no infrastructure, which is bad, but at the same time it also creates opportunities for young people like us to set up how we develop our art scene. And the third reason: I'm always interested in culture, and many parts of culture in Vietnam are hidden or have been lost. So contemporary art is a good way to work with artists to explore Vietnamese

16 asialife HCMC

culture. Contemporary art, especially in Vietnam, is the catalyst of knowledge production.

Have you noticed anything different here compared to other examples of contemporary art in Asia?

I think at first it’s very much like individual personal stories, but nowadays artists have developed to the level that they can connect their personal stories to expand that to a deeper and wider perspective. In 2000, a huge wave of American-Vietnamese artists come back to Vietnam and added another voice. They are Vietnamese, but they are different from the Vietnamese inside [the] country. So in Vietnam,

there are many different possibilities to talk about art … it is very unique in that it has a huge diversity of artists' background.

As an assistant curator, how do you select Sàn Art's exhibitions and artists?

Their works must [be] conducted from deep research. We encourage the artists to work together with scientists, doctors, anthropologists, historians, to gain more knowledge. Each year we always plan five, max six, exhibitions, so it depends on the proposal of the artist, the quality of the works. There are two exhibitions of our lab/resident artists, three new artists every six months.

Who are the current resident artists?

Right now we have Ngoc Nau from Hanoi. She is a very young artist, freshly graduated — I think last week — we like her proposal a lot about how light carries physical and spiritual meanings. We also have another artist from Hanoi, Bang Nhat Linh. He was born in 1983, quite young, and he does a lot of work using the remnants from the Vietnam War, but very random objects, such as a chair from an airplane used during the war and using that to integrate with the history and stories. We have another artist from Saigon, Phan Thao Nguyen, but she has been based in Chicago a very long time. She works a lot with architecture and also diseases integrated into artworks.

Photos from the gallery's last exhibition, Phan Quang's Space / Limit, were censored.

How do you deal with these challenges and censorship in Vietnam?

Every time we do exhibitions here it's a very challenging process. We select works that we think aren't appropriate for the wide public, which contain nudity or are extremely sociocritical. We know we won't get a licence, and only offer these to those who are really interested in an upstairs gallery. With the rest, we apply to the Ministry of Culture.

Every time we apply for the licence, when the Ministry has questions, they call us and we have to answer. It's kind of a process of educating them

what contemporary art is and what contemporary artists are doing. I mean, we cannot expect them to change their mind, but still it's better to talk

to them and explain to them why we do this.

What are popular themes from local artists?

The rediscovery of the war, the social issues in current society. … There are many artists working on the suppression of what is called the ‘weak gender’ — women, homosexuality, all of that. Because many artists were born and grew up in the countryside and they studied and grew up in the city, so they reflect a lot on their personal life changes but also the industrialisation of Vietnam.

What's in store for Sàn Art this summer?

In July we will have a video show of three artworks from one Canadian artist and two other artists from Hanoi.

The show is called 'Echoing Nostalgia, Collecting Countermemory'. It questions a lot about how to use moving images and difference of sound to rethink history and memory. … In August, we will launch a huge program of Sàn Art called 'Conscious Realities' … [where] we invite eight thinkers per year and six artists to Saigon to give lectures, to do workshops, and to work with local artists. A lot of people will come in from August and the program takes place [over] three years.

San Art is located at 3 Me Linh Street, Binh Thanh District.

asialife HCMC 17

The documentation of the ever-changing landscape of a city from a bird's eye view was the simple goal of Toronto-based photographer, Neil Ta, when he began this ongoing photo project three years ago. The perspectives, sometimes vertigo-inducing, are rarely seen by those who remain on ground level. Canada's most populous city is undergoing a massive construction boom, unmatched by any other North American city, making these views only temporary.

asialife HCMC 19

To see more of Ta's work, visit Neilta.ca or his blog at Lambidong.com.

20 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 21

22 asialife HCMC

Noise complaints,ticket pricing, licensing issues, andthe lack of a dedicated audience are all problems live music promoters are facing in Ho Chi Minh City,butthey hope allthatwill soon change.

By Michael Tatarski and Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

It wasn’t a typical night of debauchery at Apocalypse Now. There were no brighttank-top-clad tourists or women, who may or may not have been working professionals, but the place was packed nonetheless.

Unlike most evenings at the club, the crowd was there to see something rare in Ho Chi Minh City — quality international bands performing live.

Two bands had flown in for the night’s show. Dengue Fever, a Los Angeles-based band that mixes Khmer music with psychedelic rock, had already played in Vietnam before this June show. But it was the first trip to the country for Little Barrie, a UK power trio whose frontman Barrie Cadogan also plays with Scottish alternative rock band Primal Scream. A crowd was packed into the club, clustered around tables and trying to peer around the thick pillars throughout the room. Apo, as the club is widely known, was clearly not the ideal location for a live rock performance, and that’s because it wasn’t where it was supposed to happen.

The bands had originally been booked to play at Cargo Bar in Q4, a warehouse that

Saigon Sound System renovated and outfitted specifically for live music acts. But for the second time in a row, the local authorities pulled the plug, forcing the gig underground.

“There’s a lot of grey in Vietnam,” Rod Quinton, who runs Cargo Bar, Q4 and event promoter Saigon Sound System, says.

“Sometimes the legislation is very confusing and can be interpreted in different ways. In reality, we interpreted stuff one way and it turns out it wasn’t correct.”

This wasn’t the first time shows like this had problems with licensing. A week before, a charity jazz festival was held at Q4, only for the authorities to shut down all the live acts.

It was a disappointing night for everyone, but in retrospect, Quinton says the blame ultimately lay with him.

A couple months prior to the festival, a local promoter used Q4 to put on a death metal show. It quickly turned sour when the bands and audience began shouting insults at the government and even the venue’s staff, Quinton says. Eventually word of the show got out, which led to other shows getting cancelled.

“We fully admit that we made a mistake with that death metal show,” Quinton says.

“I should have pulled the pin on that … they were even annoying and offending me.”

Now Saigon Sound System and the local authorities have come to a better understanding of what both sides should expect, but there is still no guarantee what might happen next.

“The process of bringing international artists in is still incredibly difficult,” Quinton says.

“Even if you do put all that documentation in really early ... you don’t actually get the final license until the authorities come to see the sound check or rehearsal for the show. …

For people like us who are putting massive deposits on things like fees and airfares, it’s pretty scary stuff. The show can be pulled and the licence may not be granted on the day of the event.”

Obviously, without a licence, a show can never go on. But even with a band booked and the licence sorted, live music promoters are running into another surprisingly common problem: the reluctance of many to pay. Most of these shows cost less than VND 500,000 asialife HCMC 23

“The process of bringing international artists in is still incredibly difficult … For people like us who are putting massive deposits on things like fees and airfares, it’s pretty scary stuff. The show can be pulled and the licence may not be granted on the day of the event.”

- Rod Quinton, Saigon Sound System

per person, and this in a city where it is common for people to pay as much as VND 1 million for mediocre DJs, but many expats still expect live music to be free.

“I’m shocked by this perception, because it’s not like that in any country in the west,” Quinton says. “Where all of these people came from, if they liked live music they would pay to go and see it. So why the hell should it be different in Vietnam?”

Linh Nguyen, co-founder and manager of Saigon Outcast, agrees. He also finds that locals tend to be unwilling to pay, although this is a bit more understanding since VND 500,000 can be expensive for many Vietnamese. One way promoters are trying to get around that is by offering discounted tickets for students.

Since opening in December, District 2’s Saigon Outcast has quickly made waves in the city’s creative scene. Though the venue hosts a wide range of artistic events, one of its biggest impacts has been on local music.

In May, Outcast hosted 'Extinction', which featured local expat bands Joy Oi! and Brian Wilson’s Brain, and the now-defunct Vietnamese band Time Keeper, as well as the Dodos, a two-man indie outfit from California.

“Extinction was our first experience with bringing in a band from abroad,” Linh says.

“We weren’t sure how well it was going to work because Vietnamese people generally don’t like to pay an entrance fee to see music.

Even a lot of expats would usually say VND 300,000 might be too much to pay.”

Doan Phuong Ha, the other half of Outcast’s ownership, believes the cost of these shows is great value. “I haven’t been to any festivals in Europe but I bet the price has to be much more expensive,” she says. “And do you have the chance to get close to them [the bands] like you do here?”

Since tickets to many of these shows are 24 asialife HCMC

already cheap when compared to the west or more musically developed Asian countries, it limits promoters in how much they can spend to bring in international acts.

“We are independent and we don’t have much of a budget, so we have to find a solution where we bring in bands who are affordable for us and affordable for people to see,” Linh says.

That’s where Damian Kilroy hopes he can help with his Loud Minority live music nights.

Kilroy, 32 from Manchester, started Loud Minority about five months ago with one goal in mind: to bring quality live music to Vietnam.

“I asked myself, ‘What do I like from a night out?’” Kilroy says. “I like to see quality live bands.”

With that in mind, Kilroy started using the connections he made while promoting music in the UK and Croatia to bring acts here.

Initially he had a group of friends that were willing to help pay for the bands. “But when it came time to put down money, everyone had excuses,” he says.

So instead, he started working with Quinton from Saigon Sound System, and together they were able to bring in Frank Turner, a British folk-punk musician, for the first Loud Minority music night. Around 320 people showed up and the night was a success.

Loud Minority’s most recent show, with Dengue Fever and Little Barrie, didn’t go as well. Since it was cancelled at the last minute and fewer people went to the underground show at Apo, the event ended up losing money. While it’s not ideal to be taking a loss on these shows, Kilroy says at this point it’s more about building an audience by bringing in good bands.

“We’re starting from scratch,” he says, “but we’re always looking for quality over quantity.”

Strategy also plays a role in what bands Kilroy tries to bring in. “I want to make sure

the bands have a good time,” he says. “It’s a small industry at the end of the day and they talk.”

He plans to put on shows that will not only be a good time for the audience, but for the bands as well. Kilroy hopes this will make Vietnam an attractive destination for bands and they will be willing to come for less money.

While these challenges may seem daunting enough — and it may be surprising in a country where loud funerals can last three days and nights — but even minor things like noise complaints have held some shows back.

After receiving their second written noise complaint from the upscale apartment complex across the street, where many wellheeled expats live, the police called Saigon Outcast right before Extinction and told them to cancel it. The show still went on, but Ha and Linh realised something had to be done.

They now visit nearby homes before an event to explain what is going on and give free tickets to residents. This approach has paid off. “We’re getting more support and we try to solve the problems quickly,” Linh says. In the past, neighbours would go straight to police with a complaint, but now they talk to Linh and Ha first.

Ultimately, though, these problems will only be fixed if the local and expat communities start to show support for the events, according to the promoters.

“There are some amazing musicians here,” Kilroy says, “But they play in cover bands.

With encouragement they could do stuff with integrity and build an audience.”

As for expats, Quinton has one simple message for them: “If they love Vietnam and want to stay here, live music is an important part of any cultural platform, so get behind it. Buy a ticket. Or even better, buy a ticket for your Vietnamese friends. If you can’t get behind it [live music], it’s just going to die again.”

The Wanderlusters

There is certainly no shortage of talented local and expat musicians in Vietnam, and here are some of the bands that are going all out to prove it. While some have just formed and others will soon change, they all have made an impression on the local live music scene and believe the only place for it to go is up.

The Wanderlusters If you’ve ever searched out live music in Saigon, there is a good chance you’ve come across the Wanderlusters. The band, with its affinity for cowboy hats and Western shirts, is hard to miss, especially if there’s a banjo or set of bongos lying around. The five-member group has been entertaining crowds from Saigon to Bangkok since 2010 with a unique sound they call “hillbilly soul”.

But how did something that seems more suited for the American south start in Saigon?

“Badly,” jokes Davis Zunk, the Wanderluster’s founder, lead vocalist and mandolinist. Scott Brantley, who plays the bongos and sings, chimes in, “Idiot A called idiot B and said, ‘Hi, I’m making a band, you want to join?’”

It may have been a random beginning, but the band took off from there. Over the past three years, some members have come and gone, but the band’s sound has more or less stayed the same, mixing original Americana roots music that draws from bluegrass, country, gospel, blues and rock. Right now the lineup consists of Zunk, Brantley, Matt Willis on bass, Phil James on guitar, and Nick Rivette on banjo and Dobro.

As I speak to the band before their regular Tuesday-night gig at O’Briens pub in District 1, they are self-deprecating and, much like in their shows, try to get a laugh out of their audience — in this case me.

While their weekly show at O’Briens is usually packed with westerners, the Wanderlusters are also starting to make a name for themselves among Vietnamese. They regularly play at Acoustic to local crowds and recently even performed at a 400-person wedding. “We’re getting some Vietnamese digging it,” Zunk says.

Now the band is armed with over 75 gig songs and will head to Zunk’s old stomping grounds in New Orleans this month for a few shows, as well as some more in Phnom Penh and Bangkok. At the end of last month, they put out their first album of 14 original songs.

“I’m surprised it’s really good,” Brantley says of the album, “and I’m even more surprised Davis wrote some great songs.”

Similar to the band's live performances, the album started as something simple, but turned into something a little weird.

“For me it’s hillbilly music meets Monty Python,” Willis says. “I laid down my initial recordings in two days … and then I come

back a month later and they’d gone crazy.

There’s all these weird bat calls, and I’m like, ‘What have you guys been doing?’”

As for the Saigon scene, the band members all agree there are some talented local musicians, but far too many cover bands.

“Any monkey can play cover tunes,” Zunk says.

“Well at least a trained monkey,” adds Willis.

Brian Wilson’s Brain Like many bands it took time, and a few twists of fate, to bring Brian Wilson’s Brain together. Drummer Ian Cowie and guitarist Andrew Adamski, the original members, had played together in Hanoi, and when they moved to Saigon they decided to form a band named after the creative mind behind The Beach Boys. “We kept meeting people who wanted to play, but they wanted to know how much we would pay them,” Cowie says during our interview before a practice session at Cargo Bar. Eventually they talked to bassist Rusty Massie, who decided to come into the fold.

At the time Cowie was handling both singing asialife HCMC 25

Brian Wilson's Brain

and drumming duties, and they were finding it difficult to find a singer. “We had been looking for a female voice for a long time, but hadn’t had any luck,” Massie says. “She needed to not have any hang-ups since some of our lyrics are pretty strange.”

Not just any singer would do, the band had something specific in mind. “We wanted a Vietnamese singer, who was mad, hot, and didn’t really give a fuck about anything,” Cowie says.

That’s when Hannah Warburton contacted the group out of the blue. “I sent her a message asking, ‘Do you mind singing songs about machines that fuck?’, and she just laughed, so she was a good fit,” Cowie says.

The band was nearly complete, and recently David Haimovich, who adds an electronic touch with his computer, filled out the lineup.

Sadly, by the time this story goes to print Brian Wilson’s Brain won’t have much time left in its current form. Cowie and Adamski are both preparing to leave the country. “That’s the problem with expat bands, there’s always people coming and going. We’re finally in a place where we can play a lot and the pieces are there but it’s over,” Cowie laments.

The band members, however, hope their impact on Saigon’s fledgling music scene carries on. “One of our intentions when we began was to kickstart a scene and try to be a vanguard," Massie says. "We’d really like to 26 asialife HCMC

get the local musicians and the expat scene integrated.”

The band provided Saigon Outcast’s Extinction event as an example of how this isn’t happening yet. “We met the Dodos and we were hanging out with Joy Oi!, but the guys from Time Keeper didn’t approach anybody,” Massie says.

Cowie believes there isn’t a scene here yet, but he too hopes the band’s work will inspire people. “I think when expats see other expats playing maybe they’ll think, ‘I can do that’, or ‘These guys are shit, I’ve got much better songs’, then they’ll start something.”

Joy Oi! Matt Bender, guitarist and singer for Joy Oi!, has a message for Saigon’s musicians: “There’s no competition in this city, and we’d like some.” Along with bassist Gareth Katz, drummer Bryon Rudd, singer Chelsea Rose North, and Alex McCarl on the synthesiser, Bender rounds out the lineup of one of the music scene’s newer outfits. Formed about three months ago, Joy Oi! played their debut gig after just a week of practice. “Our first show was at McSorley’s and we had just gotten our shit together the previous week. We didn’t know the ends of the songs,” Bender says.

Despite a rocky first performance it was well received and there was demand for

more. “We were planning to continue writing music but then people started asking us to play more shows,” Rudd says. “Maybe it’s because there wasn’t a sound like that.”

As for what exactly that sound is, the band doesn’t want to lock itself into a genre. “It’s got a lot of elements from a lot of different sounds, so if you listen to a set it’s kind of like a rollercoaster ride,” Rudd says.

Like other bands in the city, Joy Oi! Wants to see more people getting involved and more musicians collaborating. “I think there are enough people in this city who are musically inclined that there could be a better scene if they just got off their ass and did something,” Bender says. “Everybody plays guitar, why not just start playing?”

In terms of venues, Rudd says the band has been lucky in its ability to regularly find places to play. However, there is little overlap between the expat and Vietnamese scenes at these places. “I can’t remember any time I’ve interacted with Vietnamese bands,” Katz, the band’s bassist, says.

Bender, for his part, thinks foreign and local bands don’t play at the same venues for a reason. “We’re playing original rock … while most Vietnamese places you go to have someone strumming away with a girl singing a fucking Taylor Swift song.”

One issue the band has encountered is inexperienced sound crews at certain venues.

Saigon Outcast, Cargo and Yoko all have

JOY OI! - Photo by Neena Nguyen

skilled teams, but elsewhere there is no telling what might happen. “At some places we’ve hooked up an iPad or a computer and they just don’t know what … they’re looking at,” Bender says. “Most places don’t consider live music a viable option to get business in.” As a result they don’t put any effort into ensuring that what music they do host sounds right.

Currently Joy Oi! is working on new material, which they hope to debut in the next month or two. Meanwhile, Bender has one final word for musicians in Saigon: “It’s really easy to write your own stuff.”

de facto leader. With her tattoos and styled hair, she looks the part, though is surprisingly soft-spoken off stage at Q4.

Cu is already mesmerising on stage, but notes that when playing original content

White Noiz One thing that can be said about White Noiz is that it may have the most unique lineup in all of Vietnam. The rock outfit consists of lead singer/guitarist Nguyen Cu, drummer Tran Uyen Thao, bassist Nguyen Ngoc Thanh Tam, and guitarist Gokhan Dedebal. Three women and a Turkish dude. Definitely not your average band in this land of tepid cover groups.

Influenced by the likes of Radiohead, the Black Keys and the Rolling Stones, White Noiz brings high energy, original rock to their performances, though they don’t want to be labelled. The group has been together for two years, and has made a lasting impression on fans throughout the country. “People like that we have three women playing,” says Cu, the

White Noiz

it’s not hard to get noticed. “People started singing along to our songs pretty quickly,” she says.

Of course, the makeup of the band helps.

“In our experience we are the only female rock band in Vietnam, so it’s a really good way to get attention,” Cu says.

Dedebel agrees that White Noiz has found a unique place for itself. “I haven’t seen any girls that can drum or play guitar like these girls,” he says.

The band, like bands everywhere, finds it difficult to make money by playing original live songs, and it is always an issue. “All rock bands in Vietnam are suffering because of the economy,” Cu says.

This is also one of the reasons why there are so many cover bands. “They [bands] don’t have money,” Cu says, “and when they play at different venues the managers ask them to play cover songs to make the audience happy. They need money, so they do it.”

White Noiz, however, is happy going their own way. They plan to record an album in the near future and then go on tour. “Playing outside of Vietnam is what we see for our future,” Cu says. As for the future of music in Saigon, Dedebel is hopeful. “There will be more bands coming in, but will they bring something new?” he asks. “If they do we would love to jam with them. We want to see bands in Saigon playing their own music.” asialife HCMC 27

Phu Dong Thien Vuong

Frozen In Time

Ho Chi Minh City’s roundabout monuments number in the dozens, depending on how they are counted, some more glorious than others. Matt Sipprell chronicles two of the more prominent ones. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Phu Dong Thien Vuong About 5,000 years ago, diverse ethnic groups in northern Vietnam first began to organise themselves into a dynastic culture around the Hong Song (Red River), which flows from the mountains of southern China to the Gulf of Tonkin, passing through what is today Hanoi.

For survival, these groups needed strong rulers to organise hydraulic engineering projects in order to control the flooding of the Hong Song, conduct trade, and repel invaders. The first dynasty, where Vietnamese history officially begins and spanning 28 asialife HCMC

a score of generations, was the Hong Bang Dynasty.

The sixth Hung king, Hung Vuong (Brave King), who ruled during the 17th century BC, was enmeshed in trying to preserve his kingdom, battling the fearsome An tribe from the north (present day China). The king needed reinforcements, so he sent messengers throughout the realm to find someone who could help defeat the aggressors.

Meanwhile, in the village of Phu Dong lived a childless, older married couple. One morning on the way to the rice paddy,

the woman saw an unusually large footprint. Surprised, she stepped in it. Much greater was her surprise when she suddenly became pregnant. She gave birth to a son named Thanh Giong.

Three years passed, however, and the child could neither sit up nor speak.

It was then that the king’s messenger arrived. Hearing the news, baby Giong suddenly sat up and told his parents to invite the messenger in. Giong’s first words were to ask the messenger to return and tell the king that he needed armour, an iron rod, and an iron horse to fight

the An. The king summoned every blacksmith in the country and Giong’s wish was granted.

Giong began to eat everything in sight.

When the materiel was delivered, Giong stood up, stretched out his arms, and transformed himself into a giant. He put on the armour, seized the rod, and mounted the steed, which roared like thunder and breathed fire from its nostrils.

Giong took off like lightning into the heart of the An encampment at Buffalo Mountain, cutting them down with his rod and burning them with his

fire-breathing stallion. When the rod broke, he wrenched bamboo from the forest and continued to skewer the enemy until they were defeated. Then, Giong rode up Socson Mountain and flew off into heaven.

Since then, he has been known as Phu Dong Thien Vuong (Heavenly King of Phu Dong), one of the “Four Immortals” in Vietnamese history. Today a temple commemorates him not far from the place where he ascended, and a national holiday and festival honour ‘Saint Giong’. Every school kid knows his story.

Phu Dong Thien Vuong’s monument stands at the Phu Dong sixway intersection at the beginning of Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, in front of Starbucks. Saint Giong is in battle mode astride his charger, spear in hand, ready to strike.

Tran Nguyen Han With Vietnam’s transition from the Tran Dynasty (1225-1400), from which Nguyen Han descended, to the Ho Dynasty (1400-1407) came a concerted effort to stamp out Chinese culture. This sparked China’s fourth domination during which the Ming army invaded northern Vietnam, deposed the Ho rulers, and imposed administrators who ruled with an iron fist.

Evidence suggests that elders of the Tran clan were complicit in the Chinese usurpation of power. Suffice it to say that the Great Empire of Ming that established Beijing as its capital, constructed the Forbidden City, rebuilt the Grand Canal, extended and fortified the Great Wall, and built a huge fleet of treasure ships that sent tributary missions as far as Africa and Arabia, attempted to regain control in Vietnam after five centuries.

The story of Tran Nguyen Han is inexorably linked to that of Le Loi, Vietnam’s most venerated hero. Le Loi shed his aristocratic ascendancy to lead the Lam Son uprising, the popular revolution that finally expelled the Chinese from Vietnam. In 1418, Le Loi began his campaign against the

Ming in what is now Thanh Hoa province, engaging for the first several years in guerilla warfare against much larger Chinese forces, until gradually he was able to organise a formidable army of his own. Le Loi, a Tran Dynasty sympathiser, appointed his close friend, Tran Nguyen Han, as one of his generals.

A daring and innovative warrior and tactician, Tran Nguyen Han fought with swords and rifles, atop elephants and horses, on land and at sea, employing carrier pigeons and poetry to communicate and carry out his strategies. He loyally served Le Loi until the final victory was won at Xuong Giang, after 10 years of war. Le Loi was anointed king, initiating the Le Dynasty, famous for its widespread reforms. He celebrated Tran Nguyen Han in his famous victory proclamation.

But no sooner did Le Loi begin his reign than palace politics started roiling and unscrupulous advisors plotted to discredit the king’s inner circle.

A purge was underway. The history books are not clear on the exact circumstances surrounding Tran Nguyen Han’s death.

Research indicates that Tran Nguyen Han’s early retirement and recreational boat-building activities were conveyed to the king as treasonous, forming the basis of an imperial arrest warrant. While being escorted by palace troops in one of his own boats, Tran Nguyen Han laments the sudden mistrust of his close friend: “His Majesty and I fought to save the country, the people. This was a great cause.

Now the king listens to my detractors. Do the heavens know what they are doing?”

Overcome by grief and refusing to suffer the ignominy of a farcical trial, Tran Nguyen Han chose to end his own life by throwing himself overboard, into the same waters where he so valiantly fought.

The Tran Nguyen Han monument is located in front of Ben Thanh Market at the foot of Le Loi Street.

Tran Nguyen Han asialife HCMC 29

An international team working off the coast of Nha Trang is taking an alternative, potentially game-changing approach to combating mosquito-borne dengue.

By Michael Tatarski. Photo by Richard Harper.

Though they are now the enemy of anybody living in the tropics, mosquitoes were limited to Africa up until 400 years ago.

Through European expansion they were delivered to much of the globe, and now their range covers over 100 countries and can affect roughly 2.5 billion people. While everyone knows the annoyance of a mosquito bite, certain types of these insects carry dangerous, sometimes deadly diseases. One of the most virulent is dengue, a name many in Vietnam are familiar with.

According to the World Health Organisation, up to 100 million cases of dengue occur worldwide annually. Of these cases, 500,000 may develop into dengue haemorrhagic fever, which can result in up to 40,000 deaths. Currently there is no effective cure for the infection.

However, the people behind the Eliminate Dengue Program are working on a project that could change the way we think about fighting insect-borne diseases, while halting dengue in its tracks. Research behind this effort began in the 1990s and centred on a type of bacteria called Wolbachia. According to professor Scott O’Neill, head scientist of Eliminate Dengue and dean of science at Monash University outside Melbourne, Wolbachia is carried by 70 percent of insects. However, it is not present in the type of mosquito, known scientifically as Aedes aegypti, that hosts dengue.

Originally the research focused on shortening the lifespan of Aedes aegypti. According to a video put together by Eliminate Dengue, one scientist discovered a strain of Wolbachia that halved the lives of fruit flies, from 30 days to 15 days. Aedes aegypti has a similar lifespan, and researchers knew that it takes up

to 10 days for a mosquito to be able to transmit dengue once it has already bitten a person.

They decided to see if transferring Wolbachia from a fruit fly to Aedes aegypti would shorten its lifespan, thus reducing its ability to spread dengue. The results stunned scientists on the team.

The life-shortening theory worked, but it also turned out that Wolbachia acted as a vaccine.

“Simply having Wolbachia in the mosquito helped prevent the spread of dengue. We didn’t need any fancy tricks,” O'Neill told me.

Just as important is the fact that Wolbachia spreads naturally once insects infected with it mate with an insect that is not carrying the bacteria. This breakthrough altered the way researchers looked at a cure for dengue.

“We’ve been trying to create vaccines for humans for years unsuccessfully, so this is an alternative approach,” O’Neill says. “The key feature is that once you put it out there it’s self-sustaining … when you put it into a population it spreads by itself.”

The Eliminate Dengue team moved from laboratory tests to field trials around eight years ago, when the program received funding from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation.

They worked on injecting Wolbachia into a few mosquitoes in a small population in northern Australia, and the results were positive. But one problem was that Australia doesn’t have enough dengue to provide conclusive measures, so the team looked elsewhere, and testing in Vietnam was their next step.

With cooperation from the National Institute of Hygiene and Epidemiology, the Ministry of Health, Institute Pasteur, the Khanh Hoa province health de-

partment, and locals, Eliminate Dengue selected Tri Nguyen Island, two kilometres off of Nha Trang, as its proving ground.

“We started off by trying to suppress the local mosquito population before we started releasing our own,” O’Neill says.

“That way we wouldn’t add to the population once we started the program.”

The team is now figuring out which strains of Wolbachia will be the most efficient to deploy. The program is halfway through the release period on Tri Nguyen, and the rate of mosquitoes infected with Wolbachia has reached 60 percent.

“The test will be to see if the rate reaches around 80 percent, and then the question becomes will it stay that high,” O’Neill says.

Depending how things go on the island, the program could be extended to mainland Vietnam.

There is also the possibility that Wolbachia could one day be used to suppress the most dangerous mosquito-borne illness — malaria. It has already been proven that the bacteria neutralises yellow fever and a few other diseases also carried

by Aedes aegypti.

Another positive of this novel approach is its low human and environmental impact.

“We did a lot of work on this and we found that Wolbachia is too big to fit down the salivary ducts of the mosquito,” O’Neill says. Therefore, if you get bitten by an infected mosquito, the bacteria won’t be transmitted.

It is important to remember that Wolbachia occurs naturally as well. People get bitten by other bugs carrying the bacteria and no traces of it have ever been found in human blood, making this method noninvasive. O’Neill and his team are confident there will be no negative consequences from an environmental or human health perspective.

While questions remain regarding this method, particularly the issue of how long it may take for Aedes aegypti to develop resistance to Wolbachia, if any, Eliminate Dengue has made great progress. From an accidental discovery to full-field testing, the team has shown that we may finally have a leg up in the fight against insects and illnesses that have plagued humans for centuries.

Tips to Avoid Dengue Professor Scott O’Neill offers some advice on how to reduce the chance of catching dengue, information that is especially important now that we are in the monsoon season, when mosquito populations explode: “The most important thing to appreciate is that Aedes aegypti is a day biting mosquito, so sleeping under a net or something like that won’t do anything. People usually get bitten around their house [this type of mosquito is highly domestic] so the key thing is to not get bitten during the day. Make sure there are no mosquitoes breeding in your house, so get rid of any containers of water in or around your house. The mosquitoes don’t fly very far so if you can control them around your own dwelling you can reduce the risk of dengue.”

asialife HCMC 31

Plans to turn Hoi An into Vietnam’s first eco-city are underway, but mounting problems leave many wondering if it is just a dream.

Story and photos by Katie Jacobs.

Silk lanterns bathe the streets in pale light, illuminating the ancient facades of the quiet buildings. In the darkness, as the living retreat to their homes and hotels outside the Old Quarter, Hoi An is left to the ghosts of the past. Although the merchant trading years are long gone, Hoi An is still, in a way, a trading hub for Vietnam. But these days the trade is tourism.

The tourism industry is not only increasing the region’s wealth and development, but also living costs and a myriad of environmental problems. In order to curb the problems, a partnership between the Vietnamese government, UN-HABITAT and Portland State University (PSU), plans to turn Hoi An into 32 asialife HCMC

Vietnam’s first eco-city — or an environmentally sustainable city — by 2020. This initiative will not only require a much-improved environmental management plan but also significant community involvement.

Putting the ‘eco’ in development So how will the Hoi An eco-city define sustainable development for the area? By creating a balance between economic investment and environmental protection, says UN-HABITAT urban specialist Juhyun Lee. Jack Tran, who grew up in a nearby fishing community and owns a small eco-tour company, is trying to do just that with his buisness. “There are many

people using the term eco-tour, but they don’t seem to understand what it means,” he says.

Unlike many companies that organise a homestay and call it an ‘eco-tour’, Tran not only encourages the removal of litter, but also actively works with local communities to improve livelihoods and environmental protection. While there are a few small organisations, such as Hoi An Eco-Tours, that strive to promote sustainable development, the future success of the Hoi An eco-city is far from assured.

Environmental challenges As Hoi An strives to become Vietnam’s most environmen-

an

rB

k roe

Photo by

Ha ns V

de

tally-friendly city, problems continue to mount. With the majority of coastal vegetation removed to make way for new investments and hotel developments, beaches in the area are succumbing to the sea. Local resident Amy Morison says the problem is only getting worse.

“Hoi An’s nearby beaches have reduced considerably in the past decade, with sections disappearing altogether at high tide,” she says.

Ironically, the large developers are both aggravator and victim, according to Lee, the UN specialist. “Their continual development has led to the destruction of the environment they rely upon,” she says, “with many resorts and new developments now threatened by the destabilising coastline and diminishing strips of sand.”

Plastic, the universal evil, is also a continuing problem.

While the streets of the Old Town are swept regularly, you don’t have to go far to find it dumped in half burnt piles near the waterways. In 2010 a ‘no plastic bags’ campaign was launched in the town. The effect has been negligible, says local business owner Nadine Ziegeldorf. Plastic bags are still given liberally at all stores and markets. “People don’t know what to do with their rubbish,” Ziegeldorf says.

While the eco-city project is attempting to improve environmental education, it is still rudimentary. “People feel it is below them to pick up rubbish,” says local conservationist and business owner Hans Van der Broek. Van der Broek recently gave up organising beach clean-ups after locals stopped participating.

The development of a solidwaste plant will hopefully improve the situation. However, Van der Broek adds that more needs to be done. “Improved education and an expansion of rubbish collection beyond the wealthy neighbourhoods are crucial for sustainable change,” he says.

According to Lee, water remains one of the town’s biggest issues. “Half the town does not have a reliable source of clean water,” she says. This is due in large part to increased levels of ground water salinity from mangrove destruction and the lack of a formal sewage system or wastewater treatment facility. The consequences of this were confirmed in 2012 when a Japanese study by specialists from Osaka Prefecture University found that Hoi An’s water supply is severely polluted and poses a serious health risk. Despite various discussions and plans, no clear solution has been settled

upon. Work on a much needed wastewater treatment plant, commenced in 2010 by the French company VINCI, has been postponed due to lack of funds.

Hoi An as an eco-city Although the government has adopted the UN-HABITAT/ PSU eco-city suggestions, environmental protection seems to have been pushed to the side in favour of development.

“Reality does not always square with the plan. Money and investment continue to override sustainable development.”

- UN urban specialist Juhyun Lee

“Reality does not always square with the plan,” Lee says. “Money and investment continue to override sustainable development.”

The Cua Dai Bridge project, a major expansion of the surrounding road system, will inevitably lead to increased river dredging, land reclamation, resettlement and disturbance of crucial mangrove and water coconut forests. While sustainable development does not renounce investment, the true goals of the Hoi An eco-city — whether designed to protect locals, the environment, or both — remain unclear.

Hoi An as an eco-city will hopefully mean more than a few trash cans in the Old Town and annual participation in Earth Hour. In order to make a lasting change, the process must have the commitment from all levels and the cooperation of all aspects of society. If the Hoi An eco-city plan can move from discussion to action, the result will hopefully be a town where economic development and tourism are united with a commitment to strong social and environmental protection.

Katie Jacobs is a Hanoi-based writer who has worked in environmental development for four years and has a master’s degree in international urban and environmental management. asialife HCMC 33

Phan The Hien (right) and Rene, two of the original members of the Da Lat Easy Riders.

34 asialife HCMC

The

Open Road Looking for a little adventure, Paul Hellweg heads to Da Lat, where he meets up with three founding members of the original Easy Riders. Photo by Fred Wissink.

“Head out on the highway looking for adventure,” implores Steppenwolf’s ‘Born to be Wild’, the song that opens the classic American 1969 movie, Easy Rider. A little adventure on the highway is what two friends and I sought when we booked a motorbike tour with three members of Da Lat’s famous Easy Riders. There are over 20 groups calling themselves the genuine Easy Riders, but we lucked out and managed to hook up with three founding members of the original group. I’d always thought the Da Lat Easy Riders had been inspired by the movie.

That isn’t the case, but I soon discovered their story does have much in common with the film’s themes.

We arranged a two-day tour up to Lak Lake in Dak Lak province and back to Da Lat. Our guides enthusiastically showed us the mainstays of the local economy, making stops at places that produce weasel coffee, silk fabric, rice wine, cashew nuts, and mushrooms. It was an informative trip, but not particularly adventurous. We did, however, eventually get a little of the latter. While stopped for breakfast in a remote M’nong village, I was startled by the sudden shattering of breaking glass and a collapsing brick wall.

Being from southern California, at first I thought it was an earthquake. I was relieved to see it was only an elephant crashing

into the café. Our three guides nonchalantly continued with their breakfast as if pachyderm intrusions were everyday occurrences. Jack Nicholson wasn’t there to express an opinion one way or the other, but I like to believe he would’ve maintained his cool too.

Easy Rider endures as the iconic symbol of the 1960s because it reflects the then-current social issues and tensions in the United States. Obviously much of the 60s unrest was a direct result of the war America was waging in

various reasons — not everyone adapted immediately. Everything changed in 1991, the year economic renovation took hold in Vietnam. According to the historian Douglas Pike, more economic and social progress took place that year than in the preceding 15. The push to collectivise agriculture and industry was abandoned. The reforms encouraged international investment and included a new reliance on the private sector to fuel economic growth.

The door to free enterprise was

Much of the 60s unrest was a direct result of the war America was waging in Vietnam. Suffice it to say the 60s were a period of social upheaval in Vietnam, too, and the Da Lat Easy Riders are a byproduct of that era.

Vietnam. Suffice it to say the 60s were a period of social upheaval in Vietnam, too, and the Da Lat Easy Riders are a byproduct of that era. All but three of the founding members are veterans of the American War. The group’s founder and leader, Phan The Hien, was a former officer in the Saigon army and an interpreter for the US 101st Airborne Division.

In the years directly following the war, Vietnamese society experienced significant transformations, and — for

opened. And so it was that in 1991, 16 unemployed ex-soldiers and teachers banded together to form the Easy Riders.

They were all friends prior and they did not name their new enterprise — that happened later, when the author of the Lonely Planet guidebook referred to them as the Easy Riders. The name stuck. Hien says he has seen the movie and likes the allusion, thus the name endures. Of the 16 original members, 12 are still actively guiding. They are older than

many of their imitators, but this is a case where age is an advantage. All 12 were born in Da Lat, and they have greater knowledge of the area and more experience guiding than their younger competitors.

On our tour, my friends and I had our wanderlust satiated as we raced in the wind up Route 27. We were taken to the requisite tourist attractions to the north of Da Lat, including the majestic Elephant Falls. That was on the first day, and little did we know that elephants were to become the leitmotif of our tour. Other than the unexpected breakfast encounter, we saw a number of elephants in and around the M’nong village.

There are still wild elephants in nearby forests, but we only saw domesticated ones. They were formerly used for agriculture, but now most spend their days lugging around tourists.

This was my second visit to Da Lat, and the first time I went with an organised-tour horde. I prefer the personalised approach of the Easy Riders.

There’s a lot of appeal in having a say about where to go and what to eat. And what better way is there to learn more about the era of the American War, then through the people who lived it?

Contact details for the original Easy Riders can be found at Easyridertrip.com. asialife HCMC 35

Myanmar’s Wild

As dusk falls over the Bay of Bengal, Chaung Tha comes alive. Thousands of local tourists splash in the shallows, taking time out to loll in rubber rings, ride tandem bicycles or hop on a beachside pony. If they are lucky, they’ll ride one painted like a zebra. This is a beach holiday — Myanmar style.

With democratisation well under way, floods of foreign holidaymakers are entering the previously isolated country.

Many fly north to the historic temples of Bagan or experience the serenity of Lake Inle. Yet six hours from Yangon lies another, lesser-known attraction — the pristine sands of the south coast.

Though instability has wracked neighbouring Rakhine 36 asialife HCMC

state, the Ayeyarwaddy delta still thrives as a draw for wellheeled Yangonites craving a break from the city. From the metropolis, buses journey through rice paddies and head into jungle-clad hills, where vegetation is being razed to plant rubber plantations, before descending onto the main drag of Chaung Tha. The ochre beach stretches along a curving bay dotted with hotels, restaurants and glinting golden temples balanced on imposing crags of black rock.

Families crowd the shoreline under swaying palms, sipping on coconuts and devouring the fresh seafood that the area is known for, before venturing into the sea fully clothed.

Entertainment is the name of

the game at this Myanmar holiday paradise, and a cornucopia of activities — from kite flying to horse rides and banana boating — is on offer. With westerners in short supply and modest clothing de rigueur, bikini-clad visitors may even become part of the show. Gangs of grinning teenagers top off their day by asking for a photograph with foreign tourists, while hawkers pace the beach selling everything from framed lobsters to sea urchins.

During Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival held in April, Chaung Tha is frenetic.

At the height of the Buddhist celebration, vacationers splash each other with ice-cold buckets of water while downing beers.

Fireworks let off by laughing

youths light up the sky and Psy’s ‘Gangnam Style’ echoes through the streets, where children set up large stages along the roadside in order to hose down passing traffic.

Despite its frantic pace and Butlins-esque atmosphere, serenity is never far away on this relatively undeveloped coastline. Even at the height of holiday season, a short walk can provide much-needed privacy.

A 15-minute stroll away from Chaung Tha’s main hub lies a wild beach where visitors can find themselves alone, except for the odd horse galloping through gentle waves. A small number of guesthouses — including the well-priced Hill Garden Hotel (around $35 a night) — populate this quiet

Beaches

Ellie Dyer ventures to southern Myanmar to discover a beach paradise for local holidaymakers and a coastline almost untouched by development.

Photos by Ellie Dyer.

area, which recalls the idylls of Thailand before its development boom.

An exhilarating motorbike ride along the coastal track to neighbouring beach Ngwe Saung further emphasises the delta’s pure beauty, which is yet to be overrun by modernity.

Small wooden houses cluster in woodlands next to shimmering beaches, deserted save for a single line of fishermen pulling in their nets at low tide and a motorbike speeding down the shore.

Wrinkled ferrymen wait beside the large estuaries that punctuate the coast, preparing to punt passengers across the waters for a small fee. Boats are heavily laden with motorbikes and longyi-clad villagers, many

wearing swirls of beige thanaka paste on their faces to protect and cool their skin. The drivers expertly navigate the shallows, dodging trees and sand banks that rise from the crystal clear waters.

A bumpy hour and a half later — through three rivers and past a shrimp farm, a dusty track and a small hill top temple — lies Chaung Tha’s up-market sister, Ngwe Saung, where coconut palm parasols dot a 15-kilometre-long white sand beach.

Along with pricey hotels and high-class resorts, its sheer length and breadth ensures that crowds remain thin beside the clear, turquoise waters that echo those of Myanmar’s other famous beachside location, Nga-

pali, in troubled Rakhine state.

Day trips can be taken to nearby Lover’s Island and while the beach may lack the exuberant nightlife of its neighbour, it’s a good destination to get away from it all, particularly from October to April. In the rainy season, the south coast is battered by storms and business slows down.

Echoing the wild weather, Myanmar’s coast in its current form is beautiful. But development is on the way, as shown by the growing number of plantations in the delta. Thanks to ongoing religious and political instability, no one can predict Myanmar’s future, but with beaches to rival those of Thailand and Bali, its solitude can’t last long. asialife HCMC 37

Photo by Rex Gelert

Even at a resort, travellers can feel they’re getting the real Napa Valley treatment. By Lien Hoang.

M

aybe it’s the wine, but there’s something relaxing about Napa Valley that makes visitors feel they haven’t been sucked into a tourist trap. Granted, Napa does not send out the impression that it is a very ‘lived in’ town, there’s not a community nor civic life.

Besides the wealthy who retire here to grow grapes for fun, this is very obviously a place that offers itself to the traveller or the weekender. And yet, Napa somehow remains a tourist destination without the throngs

38 asialife HCMC

of picture-snappers, campy street signs, and useless trinkets hawked in other well-travelled centres.

Most people enter the valley from the south because in that direction, an hour away, is San Francisco airport. You know you’ve arrived, not because of a Welcome-to-Napa sign, but because the real trademark that greets visitors is their drive over a bridge and past a row of lanky Dr. Seussian trees that bend as if yielding to coastal winds.

There we stayed at the Meritage, an Italian-influenced resort

and spa named after a red and white varietal not allowed to be called Bordeaux (kind of like wine that’s merely sparkling if it doesn’t come from Champagne, France). The name is a sort of pièce de résistance, a sort of antiFrench defiance in Napa.

The usual problem with resorts is their anonymity: they can be anywhere, so a beach is a beach, a golf course is a golf course, no matter which country you’re in. The Meritage at least starts to step out of this bland constraint by embracing the wine culture that attracts

Photo by Rex Gelert

people to Northern California to begin with. Wine cabinets line the walls of the ground level, while dinners come with a glass of bubbly. In the refrigerator of each guestroom is a bottle of white, to be enjoyed on cushions around the outdoor fireplaces, or on personal balconies looking out to a hill of vines.

Somewhat unique is the Trinitas Tasting Room inside the resort’s Estate Cave, which allows for on-site wine pairings with chocolate in cozy quarters.

But if you’re going to visit the foremost wine region of the United States, it would be blasphemous to den up at a resort without trying internationallyacclaimed wines at the source.

Wineries big and small range from stately, private dwellings with terraces and ponds, to the powerhouse Mondavi winery that brought fame to Napa, to family vintners serving samples

the halls were so long, when hoteliers could have built rooms upward instead, to create views of the valley. But I realised doing so would have dented the charm that keeps Napa low-key and confident.

The resort is not immune from bland constraints. It’s important to ask for a room away from the freeway overpass, perhaps a necessary evil.

Curtains and paintings recall mass-produced art, incongruously set up with well-chosen stones: golden limestone welcomes guests in the foyer, while designers custom-made the mosaic of cream and Emperador Dark marble in the suites.

The Meritage includes a lounge, bowling lanes, and a pricey spa. Forty feet into the earth, Spa Terra might be the only fully underground spa in the country. Usually I prefer to venture off a resort, but here I

Napaisapleasantdriveinfromthecoastand upfromtheBayArea,andunlikesomeoftheir Californianeighbours,cityplannersherehave doneaprescientjobofdevelopingtheplace.

Jill Doherty Photography Jill Doherty Photography

right from the barrel through oversize syringes. In addition to wine, the landscape makes the drive alone worthwhile (not that wine and driving should be combined; see the Napa Valley Wine Train). A patchwork of verdant vineyards push up against an even greener wall of trees, layered by sandy hills and vast stretches of puddles.

Napa is a pleasant drive in from the coast and up from the Bay Area, and unlike some of their California neighbours, city planners here have done a prescient job of developing the place. Few strip malls mar the town, preserving its pastoral allure, and high-rises are nowhere in sight. Going up one level to my room at the Meritage, I initially thought it was a shame

would stay for Siena restaurant.

Service staff at the in-house eatery are unexpectedly sophomoric; lucky for them the food and theme hold the place together well. Named after a northern Italian town, Siena pays tribute to the Palio di Siena, a violent horse race that brings visitors from all over. From wine to scallops to filet mignon, the reasonably-priced menu reflects touches of Italy and draws on the resort’s own herb garden and lemon and olive trees. Other ingredients are locally sourced, which is part of the beauty of California. It has just about every product you could want, from zucchini to zinfandels, and every type of backdrop, from mountains to beaches and, of course, wine valleys.

asialife HCMC 39

A Pretty Mean Bird There is a memorable episode of Seinfeld that revolves around a Kenny Rogers chicken restaurant. Newman loves Kenny’s chicken, and he tells Kramer, “The man does a pretty mean bird.” Well, Kenny Rogers’ chicken is nothing but dressed up fast food, and in my mind fast food is a punk. But a true Pretty Mean Bird is a stud.

And I had one recently, but it wasn’t chicken. It was chef Gabriel Boyer’s pan-roasted pigeon, served in the eagle’s nest that is Cirrus at the 51st floor of the Bitexco Tower.

There in Gabe’s aerie, a welltrained waitress served me a studly dish indeed. The pigeon is a small bird, but the dish was served in pieces the size of a big man’s thumb. Each one offering at least three bites for a gentleman, or four for a lady, or one for a hungry savage. It had turned out of the pan the very quintessence of golden brown. It was cloaked in a light, warm, buttery sheen that glistened and said, “Eat me, big boy.” It thoroughly punked Rogers and that colonel guy.

I touched my knife to it, and it parted into threes and fours, suitable for sharing with Lady Constance. The colour within had gone from wild and bloody to a deep burgundy that bespoke not just a mean bird but a strong one. This was no earth-bound punk chicken, but a creature that had the power of flight. I bit into it and knew the firmness and assertive flavour of game, yet at the same time the succulence and 40 asialife HCMC

nuance that only a man who does a Pretty Mean Bird can achieve.

So who is this Pretty-MeanBird man? Who is it that’s punking Rogers and Sanders and so many other chicken slingers? Well Gabe comes from Chicago. And as I remember it, Chicago is a place where women eat 16-ounce steaks and men double down on the same. It’s a city where meat is meat, game is game, beer is

plate, then I’ve done my job.”

He’s taken his skills to some of the best hash houses in America, including L20 in his home town. And several months ago he brought them to Saigon.

He has also melded a disparate group of workers into a team of kitcheneers and wait staff that is easily one of the best, most attentive and most knowledgeable in the country.

This is an achievement that many an erstwhile kitchen

The pigeon is a small bird, but the dish was served in pieces the size of a big man’s thumb. Each one offering at least three bites for a gentleman, or four for a lady, or one for a hungry savage. beer, and no punks need apply.

“One of my first food memories is of venison sausage at breakfast,” Gabe says. “To this day I love anything grilled.

And anything in a shell, which makes this a great city for street food.”

Though he comes from the city of big shoulders, and he’s a big guy who speaks with a big baritone voice, he learned delicacy and subtlety at the Culinary Institute of America.

“My passion,” he says, “is bringing order out of chaos; to take the wild and the raw and turn them into a composition.

If I can tame nature in such a way as to put artistry on a

guru has failed to meet here in Saigon. But you can see his success in the easy grace with which he directs his culinary cast in the theatre-in-the-round that is Cirrus. You can hear it in the mellow notes of his baritone as he directs, dropping to the lower registers to plumb the bass tones when he gives a food order. I asked him how he’s managed to do this.

“This is a tough business,” he tells me. “And you have to be tough. But one thing I learned at L20 is that you don’t have to be a dick.” Sage words from a pretty artful punker. And a man who does a Pretty Mean Bird.

Quan Mama Lam Located on one of the more Vietnamese streets in leafy District 2, Quan Mama Lam offers an affordable escape from the excellent, but often expensive, restaurants in its neighbourhood. The layout is simple, with a minimally-decorated, open-air ground floor and terrace featuring wood tables and chairs. The open kitchen means you can watch the staff prepare your food.

The family-run restaurant’s focus is freshly-made tofu, which forms the core of the menu, only available in Vietnamese. An entire page is devoted to tofu dishes, including

Tofu-centric Vietnamese food in the middle of District 2.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Fred Wissink.

tofu with lemongrass, seafood, fried with mayonnaise, or hamburger sauce. An extensive selection of shellfish and clams is also available, along with the usual assortment of refreshments, tea and coffee.

The cooks seem to specialise in a number of fairly rare dishes as well, as there were a number of names I didn’t recognise even after living here for three years.

We started with the bun dau mam tom (VND 25,000), a simple dish of fresh tofu served with bun noodles, herbs and soy sauce. The silky tofu nearly melts in your mouth.

My favourite way to eat this dish was to wrap a few mint leaves around a piece of tofu and a chunk of bun, and then dip it into chilli-infused soy.

Next up was the dau hu sot cam (VND 45,000), or tofu with orange sauce. I hadn’t seen tofu prepared this way before, and was unsure of what to expect. The result was excellent, with the sauce providing a tangy, slightly-sweet flavour in contrast to the neutral taste of tofu.

Finally we tried the sup dau hu nam chay (VND 50,000), a generous bowl of soup filled with tofu, mushrooms, and

bits of clam meat. Similar to the soup often served at Vietnamese weddings, this dish was nicely flavoured, and isn’t too heavy for a hot day.

Quan Mama Lam isn’t your usual District 2 restaurant, and that is part of its appeal. Pay it a visit if you’re looking for something different from the typical international cuisine suspects across the river. The homemade tofu is also on sale on its own, so customers can enjoy it at home as well.

40 Quoc Huong, D2 09 76 66 21 93 8am-10pm, seven days asialife HCMC 41

Beach Bums Authentic surf boards, a hammock and tyre swing, lawn chairs, and summery splashes of lime green, yellow, and teal decor resemble a best friend's backyard potluck, making Beach Bums, a new outdoor taco lounge in Phu Nhuan District, a mellow hangout. Real sand blends in with a scenic beach and a retro Volkswagen camper van painted on the walls.

Freshly landscaped grass invites customers to mingle.

Vietnamese owner Annie Ho, who spent her high school years in sunny Florida, got the idea from her surfer boyfriend.

While she knows it'll take time for locals to get accustomed to tacos, she hopes the menu will 42 asialife HCMC

A Phu Nhuan District taqueria spices up Saigon with fresh, original tacos and a leisurely outdoor space. By Ruben Luong.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

be relished among expats.

Annie changes the taco selections every two weeks. Customers can order the combo (one taco, one side, and one drink) for VND 60,000. À la carte, tacos are VND 45,000-VND 55,000.

Comfort sides, like mac and cheese, are VND 20,000.

Each taco has a different meat served in special, homemade tortillas. Our tacos were prepared with soft jalapeño and cheese tortillas (the week before, they were wasabi-flavoured).

Ready to dig in, we grabbed the restaurant's mammoth jar of Tapatia hot sauce.

First, we had the jerk chicken taco (VND 45,000). The Jamaican jerk marinade was

mouth watering, appropriate for enjoying outdoors. The taco had a familiar, homegrown taste. It wasn't long before we scarfed down our next taco, the jalapeño and honey shrimp (VND 50,000), which was just as appetising as it sounds. There was no skimping on the shrimp.

Lime and chilli powder made the taco addictive.

But, the most surprising and savoured taco was our last, the steak and pear (VND 55,000).

The steak was prepared using coffee for added tenderness. The taste of coffee was subtle and the slices of sweet pear were an inviting and crunchy counterpart to the soft steak.

Our side of chilli cheese fries

(VND 20,000), cooked with Saigon Red, was a hearty and indulgent plate of potato and taro fries. It was big enough to be a meal, but better as a shared snack.

A can of beer (VND 20,000) is tempting with tacos, but don't hesitate to try the minty lemonade, a tangy fusion of lemon, kumquat, mint and thyme leaves that quickly cools you down from all the spices.

It's just one more sunny delight to add to the experience.

196 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan 08 35 17 49 83 Monday-Sunday, 10.30am-2.30pm, 4.30pm-8.30pm, call in advance Facebook.com/beach.bums.9469

Titi For all of Saigon’s diversity when it comes to dining options, the reality is that the city is highly segregated in terms of food. For the most part, international cuisine can only be found in Districts 1, 2 and 7. The rest of the city is packed with Vietnamese quans and street stalls.

But Titi turns this layout on its head. Located down a small street in a section of Binh Thanh District rarely visited by foreigners, this Vietnameserun restaurant serves excellent versions of French and Italian mainstays to a largely local clientele. Titi has two locations on Vu Huy Tan, and we chose to eat at the smaller of the two.

There is no sign out front, so

Western food in an unexpected location.

Story and photos by Michael Tatarski.

look for the white storefront with sliding glass doors.

The décor inside is simple.

The seating is cafeteria style, so there is a good chance you’ll be sharing a table with strangers, as this place is always crowded.

The white walls are in dire need of a fresh coat of paint, and are only adorned with a few French paintings and bottles of wine.

What Titi lacks in atmosphere, however, it makes up for in food. The menu features a handful of appetisers ranging from VND 25,000 to VND 35,000, a few cheap sides, and a variety of tuna salads (VND 35,000). The mains are appealing and very reasonably priced.

Examples include BBQ ribs, spaghetti carbonara, and grilled ostrich. The most expensive dish is VND 105,000, and every main comes with fries and a side salad. A few dessert options, such as crème brulée and tiramisu (both VND 25,000), round out the menu. There is also an extensive drinks list, and every diner gets a free, fluffy baguette.

We start with the bruschetta (VND 30,000). Crispy garlic bread was served beside a bowl of flavourful capers and tomatoes. For a main I went with the venison steak with pepper sauce (VND 60,000). The sauce had a wonderful kick, and the gamey venison was fresh and

packed with flavour. The fries, a simple dish that is regularly mishandled here, were excellent as well. My friend tried the duck breast with mulberry sauce (VND 105,000). Purple and rich in texture, the mulberry sauce soaked into the duck, creating what is possibly the best dish at the restaurant. For dessert the apple cake (VND 25,000), served warm, provided a delicious end to an overall fantastic meal. In terms of value for taste, Titi is hard to beat.

67/4/118 Vu Huy Tan, Binh Thanh 09 82 43 60 61 10am-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am2pm Sun, 5pm-9.30pm, seven days. asialife HCMC 43

Inside 14 Ton That Dam Chris Mueller takes a stroll through an odd building complex in District 1 that provides a glimpse into the city’s past, while peering towards its future. Photos by Fred Wissink.

The entrance to 14 Ton That Dam Street in District 1 looks more like the beginning of a hem than a building. But one step inside and the sky turns to grimy ceiling and a set of stairs beckons visitors upwards.

Once at the top of the darkened and dingy stairwell, 44 asialife HCMC

a small window gives a better view of the surprisingly beautiful building and its surroundings. The glass and steel of the Bitexco Tower looms over the ramshackle orange-tiled roofs of a bygone era below. Families have made the best out the old, French structures just outside

the building, mending them with sheet metal and plywood.

The homes surrounding it may be in utter disrepair, but 14 Ton That Dam appears to have many years left.

Few seem to know the history of the building, but Mel Schenck, a retired American

architect living in Ho Chi Minh City, told me it is a good example of the modernist utilitarian apartment buildings built in the 1940s and 50s in Saigon.

“Vietnamese builders adopted a stripped-down version of art-deco for many of these buildings,” he says. “Often, as in this case, they focused design on one repetitive element, like the woven plaster or concrete screens above and below the window openings. These buildings provide the urban fabric of District 1, a backdrop for the more monumental buildings built for public uses. But they all add up to our impression of Saigon of the past as well as the present.”

While the architecture and history of the building is fascinating enough, this five-storey maze has some surprises tucked away between the dozens of

apartments inside. On the first floor is an odd, eclectic café called Things Café. Everything here seems to be mismatched.

Wood tables are paired with worn-out sofas and desks stuffed with old issues of magazines, drawings and odd notebooks, giving the cafe a vibe of a communal apartment for artists.

From Things, if you follow the arrow below the word ‘tattoo’ scrawled across the wall in black, it brings you to a little tattoo studio in the back. While I’d be nervous to get inked here, the arrows are worth following to get a better view of the courtyard below and the skyscrapers overlooking it. Leading down to the courtyard is a dilapidated set of stairs that look ready to crumble at any moment. On my last visit, a group of young Vietnamese, undaunted as usual,

played violin while balancing on the shoddy iron railing.

Up the next flight of stairs, also in the back, is probably the oddest part of the building. A glass door with a stick-less lollypop below a blue and pink arch opens up into the Other Person Café. This is one of the strangest cafes I’ve seen in the city, not just for its décor of giant plastic desserts and candy-striped walls, but also for the teenagers hanging out there. When I visited, most of them were dressed in anime-inspired outfits. I asked a question in Vietnamese, only for them to respond in turn with maniacal giggling and hand-covered mouths. Feeling like I was in a twisted nightmare, I quickly headed to the 4th and last floor.

At the top of the stairs, strings of fairy lights led to the left down a darkened hallway, be-

fore ending at the Mockingbird Café. This surprisingly peaceful café is the quietest I have found in District 1. Run by Na, a recent university graduate, the space is sparse but comfortable. A few heavy wood tables and chairs are spread around the concrete floor and several cushioned benches line the walls. There is also a small, covered balcony overlooking the concrete monolith State Bank building across the street.

There are a few more businesses spread throughout the structure — some more obvious than others — and new ones seem to be regularly opening, proving that while this building may not be one of the most impressive examples of Saigon’s 20th-century architecture, it does show that it is possible for the city to successfully meld old and new. asialife HCMC 45

photography by Thai Pham thaiphamphotography.com

46 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 47

48 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 49

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

listings

hotel & travel

DALAT

AIRLINES Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

escape

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues.

Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

activities

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI InterContinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools. All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Golf Package in Hoi An

The Boutique Hoi An Resort is offering a ‘Hole in One Golf Package’ until 31 Oct. Priced at VND 8,760,000 for two people, the package includes two nights in a superior room, daily breakfast, airport transfers, one 18-hole round of golf including green and caddy fees, and daily shuttle bus service to Hoi An’s Old Town. The round of golf can be replaced by a half-day spa treatment at the resort’s Le Spa. For reservations contact 05 10 39 39 111 or reservation@boutiquehoianresort.com.

Free Night in Phu Quoc

Until 30 Sept, Mango Bay Resort on Phu Quoc has a special offer available: customers can stay for three nights and only pay for two. Mango Bay has 40 rooms and

50 asialife HCMC

cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HO CHI MINH CITY

bungalows spread along a secluded, clean and lengthy beach. The resort is set in 20 hectares of indigenous natural forest and garden, giving guests a sense of space and privacy. The on-site restaurant focuses on fresh seafood, and activities such as snorkeling and cooking classes are available as well. Contact reservations@mangobayphuquoc.com or 07 73 98 16 93.

Five Senses of Hue

Hue’s La Residence Hotel & Spa has crafted a ‘Five Senses of Hue’ package, which is intended for honeymooners but is available to all guests. For $750 customers will get two nights in a deluxe river-view room, full spa treatment including facials and a Swedish massage, a gift bottle of the hotel’s signature scent, a dinner prepared

by chef La Thua An, and a compilation of music by renowned vocalist Camille Huyen.

The package is offered for stays through 31 Dec. Contact 05 43 83 74 75 or resa@ la-residence-hue.com.

asialife HCMC 51

Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungleclad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa

52 asialife HCMC

Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU Grand Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 8 3528 5286 www.mgmgrandhotrambeach.com MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach is Viet-

nam’s first large-scale, fully-integrated luxury beach resort and entertainment destination. With beautifully appointed five-star rooms, numerous activities, world-class restaurants, and a luxurious spa, this resort offers guests a premium hospitality experience in a spectacular natural setting.

Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3852 014 www.petrohousehotel.vn Located right in the heart of Vung Tau. Petro House is one of the city's most elegent boutique business hotel. The hotel's spacious guest rooms have been thoroughly modernized, delivering comfort, safety & connectivity.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

MONTHS

UKTV Subscription

Only $ 30 USD*

Promo Code : ALMAG

*One Time Setup Fee $ 6 USD Applies

tralia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

listings

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Aus-

feast

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Sheridan's Irish House 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

CAFES Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

A Great American Night

Celebrate the US’s Independence Day at the Sheraton’s Saigon Café. From 6-10pm on 4 July a selection of sumptuous dishes, including Kansas City pork ribs, chicken Maryland, sea bass on bean ragout and oysters Rockefeller will be available. Mouthwatering desserts like New York-style cheese cake and Boston cream pie will also be offered. Cost is VND 940,000++ including free flow house wine, coffee and tea. If you miss the holiday, an American theme night will be held every Saturday this month from 6-10pm for VND 980,000++.

Authentic Hong Kong Dim Sum

Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen in Kuhmo Plaza, the first Hong Kong-style casual dining restaurant in Saigon, has introduced its Hong Kong dim sum for lunch and dinner. The pan-fried and crispy dim sum menu includes baked BBQ pork, deep-fried bean-curd skin roll with shrimp, and yam dumplings. The Cantonese dim sum menu features steamed items such as prawn dumplings and pork rib with black bean sauce. Dessert options include baked mini

54 asialife HCMC

TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

egg tart, mango pudding, and red bean cream with lotus seed. All dim sum cost VND 35,000.

US Specials at Corso

For the month of July, Corso Steakhouse and Bar is offering a wide range of American food specialties that highlights the restaurant’s signature beef cuts imported directly from the US. Choose from a succulent list, including the Chicago-style bone-in ribeye steak and the New York strip served with a variety of chef's special sauces.

The menu also extends to seafood with pan-seared jumbo sea scallops, or spring chicken with piri-piri sauce, and roasted Kurobuta pork. To round it out, the restaurant is also offering Washington hot apple crumble and nuts and New York cheesecake with blueberry coulis and baked pear.

Norfolkhotel.com.vn.

Rustic French Favourites

From 13 to 19 July, the Caravelle’s Reflections restaurant will bring your taste buds back to where it all started — the French country kitchen. Head chef Darren Watson

will create dishes that are at the heart of one of the world’s most refined culinary traditions. The à la carte menu of timehonoured recipes includes roast lamb leg with ratatouille, fisherman stew with country bread, and pork rillettes. Classic French desserts such as mini crème brulee and floating meringue islands complete the weeklong menu. A three course ‘Cuisine de Campagne’ menu, including coffee or tea and assorted sweets, costs VND 1,000,000++.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

street gourmet

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Bo bia ngot If you're looking for a mid-afternoon pick-meup, bo bia ngot is a sure thing. Found throughout the South, it's made with sugarcane, shredded coconut and black sesame seeds neatly wrapped in sweet rice paper. As the sugar cane melts, it turns into a sticky paste, making this already extra-sweet

CHINESE Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers

treat even sweeter. Bo bia ngot carts are often found near schools by the ca vien chien (fried fish ball) carts and are popular afterschool snacks with young children. But, be warned: eat too many of these tasty indulgences and you won't have room for dinner. A serving will cost you VND 5,000.

100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

L’essentiel 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 38 21 76 82 A French restaurant offering a traditional menu that changes every week in a rotation of four. Dishes range from around VND 100,000 upwards to nearly VND 400,000 and include a variety of meat and seafood options. Cheese and pastries are available as well.

Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

INDIAN

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

asialife HCMC 55

street gourmet

imbibe

Banh bo dua Summertime is Rosé Time

By Darryl Bethea The summer months, by nature, have people craving refreshing, cold beverages.

But you shouldn’t just stick to the standard beer or soda.

Instead, try some rosé still or sparkling wine. This wine is visually beautiful. It is neither white nor red, but a blend of colours that results in a blushing pink. A rosé wine has a prettiness that invites you to taste it.

Rosé wines can come from all the major wine regions; however the most famous is Tavel AOC, from the southern Rhone area of France. Here, the wine is made by blending many different types of grapes, most notably Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre.

So how do these black, dark grapes produce such a beautiful blush? With the exception of rosé or pink champagne, which is made by blending white wine with red, all good quality rosés are produced with limited maceration or contact with the skin of the grape. During this process it is made exactly the same way as red wine, only the contact is limited to give it a pink hue.

Still or sparkling rosé? It all depends on your mood or the occasion. If it is for a celebration or party, a sparkling rosé bubbly is hard to beat. Price considerations generally would find rosé champagne higher on the expense scale, due to

56 asialife HCMC

the higher cost of extended fermentation procedures. These wines will mirror their normal ‘cousins’ in taste and complexity, with the added benefit of the beautiful colour. If you like the look and bubbles but don’t want to spend big money, go with a Prosecco or Spumante.

Again, if you normally like these wines in their normal versions, a rosé makes it a little more special, for a similar cost. Don’t forget that on Valentine’s Day or International Women’s Day, rosé is the way to go.

A bottle of rosé, sitting in an ice bucket and poured into a glass, can be drunk with or without food. Grilled meats like pork, shrimp, fish, or a simple summer salad would lean more towards a light red wine pairing. Just stay away from oysters or cream sauces. Rosés can be either off dry (a touch of sweetness on the front palate) or bone dry. So even if you prefer red or white wine, try a rosé this summer. Think of it as a perfect bridge between red and white, an alternative that brings excitement to your next social gathering.

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World and is a certified sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@finewinesasia. com.

At first glance, it's easy to mistake banh bo dua for a tart, mini quiche or even a knish. But take a bite and you'll know you're eating classic street food.

The outside is made from two thin pieces of baked wheat flour that fit over each other, and the filling is a mixture of shredded

things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi,

coconut, lentils and sugar.

To eat this chewy, sweet treat simply slice it up and serve or remove the baked wheat covering to enjoy the coconut mixture directly. Banh bo dua is served warm and can be found around town all day. A serving costs VND 5,000.

sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs

and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373

New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Healthy meal

oo

o o o Healthy life

Quality natural ingredients

Ready - to - go meals

that make eating healthier

Enjoy!

ADD: 86 Ngo Duc Ke, D1, HCMC TEL: (08) 3914 0631, 3915 3603

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

asialife HCMC 57

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

local eats

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Street Snacks

By Tristan Ngo Driving past the corner of Cach Mang Thang Tam and Suong Nguyet Anh the other day, I chanced upon an old favourite eatery that I had forgotten about. I remember when I first came to Vietnam and visited this place back in 1994. This is an iconic family-owned place that has been open for over 30 years.

It was filled with customers and my first thought was that I needed to re-acquaint myself with it.

Inside the open-front eatery you will find different individual street food carts serving bo bia, goi du du bo, nuoc mia and bun rieu. Tables and plastic chairs are tightly packed next to the motorbike parking, and the traffic noise creates a classic indoor street scene.

Bo bia, one of the most famous southern Vietnamese dishes, is a type of Vietnamese summer roll with Chinese sausage (lap xuong or lap cheong), eggs, cassava root (cu san), dried shrimp, basil, mint and lettuce. Cassava root is similar to water chestnut and jicama, or yam bean, as it has a crisp and clean taste, even after being cooked. It is tightly rolled in a banh trang (rice paper) wrapper then dipped in a hoisin sauce and seasoned

58 asialife HCMC

with roasted peanuts and chilli paste.

The other popular dish here is goi du du bo (green papaya salad with beef jerky). This dish reminds me more of a slaw done Vietnamese style, rather than a salad. You can order it without the jerky if preferred. The salad is made up of shredded unripe papaya with roasted peanuts, chilli, basil and rau ram (persicaria, or Vietnamese coriander).The shredded papaya is served with a soy sauce that is seasoned with garlic, palm sugar, lime, chilli, and topped with a deep-fried shrimp cracker.You can find similar dishes from Laos, Thailand and Cambodia, the differences being in the sauce and type of toppings While bo bia and goi du du are famous in their own right, in my mind their nuoc mia is legendary. Freshly-squeezed sugar cane juice with a slice of citrus over ice is the best thirst quencher, bar none. It was amazing when I first tried it nearly 20 years ago, and it is still good now.

Nuoc Mia 93 Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 1 38 39 52 51 Open 8am-10:30pm, seven days

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and

Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

VIETNAMESE

The Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: (84) 838247-827 www.wineembassy.com.vn Wine bar in district located in district 1 with excellent selection of wines, with signature trios for sampling and comparing. With experts on hand this is a great experience to experience wines at there best.

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

BREWHOUSES Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585

asialife HCMC 59

www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic.

There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst.

Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Saigon Catering 41A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9286 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from

60 asialife HCMC

the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

DELIVERY www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 38 24 78 27 With more than 30 wines by the glass and 100 vintages from all over the world, Wine Embassy offers an excellent place to discover wines in a relaxing and entertaining atmosphere. The resident sommelier and knowledgeable staff can also provide information on each type, perfect for neophytes and experts alike.

listings

Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

asialife HCMC 61

fitness

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Recovery

By Phil Kelly There is a culture or myth that in fitness and sports performance more is better. Rest and recovery are of equal importance to the training or workout portion of the regime when devising a program.

However, because people think they get the training benefits by ‘doing’ they often overlook, or don’t understand, the importance of rest and recovery.

Recovery is actually the key and is critically important when applied to sports training, because without it we do not adapt physically to become fitter, stronger or faster.

Something in our society, whether it is in relation to sport or work, seems to make us think that admitting we need more rest is bad. If you are seen to train every day, for example, then psychologically you could 'look' and 'feel' stronger for it. If you analyse how you really feel though, it probably comes down to your mental frame of mind. The fact is that working smarter, and not necessarily harder, will reap the most favourable results due to eliciting the most beneficial hormone response or gene expression.

When we exercise, we don't get stronger. When we exercise, we actually break down our energy systems and muscles and get weaker.

The more exercise we do, the

62 asialife HCMC

weaker we can become and the more susceptible we are to illness and injury — this is called ‘over training’. For that reason, gains in your fitness come from recovering.

If an individual does not allow their body to recover then each additional training stimulus creates a further decline in fitness and performance (a fatigued and over-trained state).

People have different rates of recovery and for this reason it is not possible for anyone other than the individual to predict recovery. There are basic guidelines to follow but knowing when to rest/recover depends on a large number of factors, and when performing at an advanced level this requires experience through trial and error.

The golden rule to follow is: If you honestly feel tired then take a rest. Don’t carry out your workout just because your program — a piece of paper — has it in the schedule. There are many influencing factors placing stress on our bodies and it’s important to be flexible with your training routine.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him though his website Phil-kelly.com.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the

SOS

SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Beware of the Bites

By Daniel Tranchant Rabies is a fatal viral disease.

People can get it when they are bitten or scratched by an infected, or ‘rabid’, animal — most frequently a dog.

Symptoms take a highly variable time to develop, usually between one to three months.

As the virus travels along the nerves, it causes neurologic symptoms such as paralysis and characteristic hydrophobia. People with hydrophobia experience spasms in the muscles used for swallowing when they see, hear or think about water. Eventually, rabies causes convulsions, coma and death. There is no specific cure and only a few people have ever survived it.

In countries with rabies, all animal bites and scratches must be treated seriously.

Even a lick to broken skin should be evaluated. Vaccination is very effective in preventing rabies, even after the person has interacted with a rabid animal. But timing is important and immediate action is required.

Most cases of human rabies occur in Asia, Africa and Latin America, in places that have large numbers of stray dogs. Cats, monkeys and foxes are also sources of infection. In many countries,

bats carry rabies or a similar virus. Certain activities, such as cycling and running, can raise your risk of being chased and bitten by a dog.

Don’t handle any domestic animal unless you are certain it does not have rabies. Never handle wild animals, and keep your distance from them. In rabies-affected countries, preexposure vaccination is often recommended for expats and long-term visitors — especially if they will not be able to get quality medical care after being bitten or scratched by an animal. It is especially important for children, since they may not tell their parents they have been bitten or scratched.

Following a bite, scratch, or a lick on broken skin from an animal that might be rabid, post-exposure vaccinations and sometimes an additional immunoglobulin injection are used. It must be given soon after the bite or scratch and will be life saving.

Dr Daniel Tranchant works at the International SOS clinic in Phnom Penh. If you have any enquiries regarding this or any other medical matter, please contact info.cambodia@international sos.com.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day.

An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the

area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

asialife HCMC 63

listings

local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

health & beauty

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien,

Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign &

64 asialife HCMC

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio The Manor 1, 1st floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh District Tel: 09 08 42 20 07 International celebrity stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years, working with celebrities around the world, and brings his experience to this top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments and medicated acne treatments. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-

checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel: 3911 1860 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Human Medicine – International Clinic (HMIC) 601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 6264 6957 http://humanmedicineclinic.com Providing a state of the art health-care solution to prevent, diagnose and treat a variety of medical conditions. HMIC is dedicated to give a family-centered care with talented team of healthcare professionals, technology and customer-friendly environment. The modern clinic hosts a range of highly trained and experienced medical specialists and managed by Western-trained doctors.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical

assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

listings

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an interna-

asialife HCMC 65

tional education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

kids corner

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools

TV Nightmares

By Gemma Jones A toddler’s imagination can run wild at the best of times, largely because at a young age children can’t distinguish between fantasy and reality due to their lack of life experience. This can lead youngsters to imitate what they see, which is a pretty solid reason for parents to steer them away from cartoons or other programs with fighting or bad language.

Television violence in particular begs to be imitated, as it often shows that you can get what you want in fun ways. Many programs show ‘good guys’ performing violent acts. This can be confusing for children, as they are taught to emulate the good guys, and it may even lead to difficulties in understanding right from wrong.

From the age of two and a half, children are likely to pay more attention to the TV. The American Academy of Paediatricians recommends that kids under two years old should not watch any TV, while those older than two should consume no more than one to two hours of quality programing a day.

Although children enjoy fast-moving characters, this will likely lead them towards cartoons, which have a higher proportion of violence. Educational programs, while not as thrilling, will usually reduce a toddler’s exposure to violence and may benefit them later on in life, as many viewing habits are formed at a young age.

There are so many tips for introducing good TV habits among the little square-eyeds,

66 asialife HCMC

but here are some of the best: - There is no reason to have a TV in a child’s bedroom.

Having one in their private space will only mean you cannot control what and when they are watching.

- Do not allow the TV to be on during meal times or when children are doing homework.

TV can be a big distraction and you don’t want to take their concentration away from educational activities.

- Allow TV to be earned, such as after completing homework or helping to clean dishes, etc.

- Watch TV together. Set aside some family TV time, with everyone gathered around. It will make it more fun and gives children a sense of security.

- Keep other productive activities near the TV and suggest doing something fun rather than watching TV. This could be dancing, music, playing a board game, doing some arts and crafts, or completing a puzzle.

As with everything, the key is moderation. Children can benefit from watching TV, as long as it does not involve being barraged by hours of intense programing. And never forget — there is this place they call outdoors, and children love to explore it.

Gemma Jones has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students from 2-16yrs.

Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holidayspecific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1

Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient

service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640

www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

asialife HCMC 67

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

finance

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Devaluation of the Dong

By Afonso Vieira We humans tend to shut our ears to bad news. Even in the face of overwhelming evidence, we are hopeful that things will still turn out OK. Knowing this tendency, we must try hard to see things clearly. Looking at the Vietnamese dong, for example, we’d like to think that things will turn out well for it, and its downward spiral won’t last long. But the evidence points to the contrary.

It seems there is only bad news for the dong. In the dong/dollar ratio, the key figure is the dong.The central bank of Vietnam set its reference rate at VND 20,828 for $1 in December 2011. You may recall that it was the last devaluation of a series started in early 2008 that made the dong lose 23 percent versus the US dollar. One and a half years later, there is still only bad news.

This bad news comes in four parts. First, the local banking sector’s non-performing loans (NPLs), where borrowers have stopped making payments, are now believed to be above 15 percent. Any figure above 3 percent is considered dangerous. NPLs, coupled with last April’s new law that allows banks to go bankrupt, and with the fact that state-owned enterprises account for half of total lending, are a dark cloud on the horizon. Second is the public debt. Government borrowing

68 asialife HCMC

is now close to 95 percent.

Although there is much controversy these days — Google ‘Krugman vs. Rogoff’ —about the level that public debt can reach before slowing economic growth, the benchmark for a healthy economy used by the World Bank and the IMF is 60 percent or lower. Third, during the first four months of this year there was a trade deficit, with Vietnam importing more than it exported.

Fourth, interest rates on VND term - deposits have been cut several times over the past one and a half years.

In the world of fiat currencies — since 1971 all paper currencies trade against each other with no fixed value — many countries (see Japan today) have deliberately lowered the value of their currency in order to boost exports and stimulate the domestic economy. If the dong is devalued once again this year, then foreign goods will cost more and inflation will rise. Over the short term, a devaluation always results in a decline in the country's standard of living. In any business, you want to get in the way of the money. And the money is not racing towards the Vietnamese dong.

Afonso Vieira is the managing director of Total Wealth Management. He can be contacted at afonso.vieira@twm.com.

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org

NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected

sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

INSURANCE Blue Cross Vietnam 8th floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 69

people matter

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Is Marketing a Waste of Time?

By Gary Woollacott Recently I received a shiny and expensive-looking marketing brochure from my mobile telephone provider. It was filled with exciting promotions — 21 in total when I counted them. Reading it made me wonder: How much of this stuff is worthwhile, and how much of it is a waste of time?

The promotion was centred on the fact that I spend enough each month to be considered a ‘platinum’ customer. That's quite a bit of cash, but not a huge amount. Mostly it’s because my monthly plan is fairly expensive to accommodate my travel, irregularly timed, but regularly regional and farther afield. It makes sense for me to have a more flexible plan so I always have coverage and can receive and send data.

So, what exciting promotions had they planned for me?

A thoughtful benefit was the ability to use the premium lounge at certain airports, not a bad deal. But I was less certain about the opportunity to receive 12 free donuts when I bought 12 at the regular price during my birth month. But the one that really had me puzzled and thinking that the promotion was a complete waste of time was the offer to get a 10 percent discount on lunch or dinner in a food court on my birthday. Let’s go over that again. I’m a platinum

70 asialife HCMC

customer with an expensive plan and they offer me a tiny discount in a food court on my birthday. Wouldn’t anyone rather spend their birthday at a nice restaurant with friends and family? If they really wanted my business, why not offer me 10 percent discount all the time, or at least in my birthday month. That would get my attention and show me that they actually valued my schedule.

People spent a lot of time and energy to put together these promotions, but most of them seem to be misguided and rather pointless. This brings me back to a regular theme: productive effort being wasted on activities that produce no real output. If you are reading this, and you are one of the people who put together these promotions, you really need to get yourself a better job. Sure, you have a shiny new brochure to show, but where’s the real business benefit in what you have done?

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research,

advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1

Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation.

Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

listings

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

fashion

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men.

Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

ACCESSORIES Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

asialife HCMC 71

femme fashion

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Why Do Vietnamese Fear White?

By Christina Yu I have been in Vietnam for more than 17 years and I only rarely ever see Vietnamese girls wearing plain white (uniforms aside), except maybe at their own weddings.

Every time I’ve offered them something white — whether it is a bag, a pair of shoes, or an item of clothing — the first response is always, “Oh no, it gets dirty very easily” BIG MISTAKE. White, to me, is the perfect colour for all skin tones, especially those of Asians, since it adds to the ‘tanned’ effect of the skin and makes you look healthy. On paler skin types, white evokes a feeling of freshness and purity and actually makes your skin look more translucent.

Wearing this colour is more effective than any skin lightening foundation you can find, because the white reflects light on your skin.

White, apparently, is also the colour most often associated with innocence, perfection, honesty, cleanliness, a beginning, neutrality, and lightness. Ask any man who has been married for more than a year whether the memory of his wife in a wedding dress is anything but lovely. True as it may seem, the most iconic images of ladies in white evoke the complete opposite, for example Madonna in Like

72 asialife HCMC

a Virgin and Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct. White actually looks the best when it is associated with naughtiness.

I probably have the same amount of white clothing in my wardrobe as pink, since it feels fresh, cool, and not to mention unusual, as few people wear it in Vietnam. It is also the most versatile colour to work with, even more so than black. White is best worn with texture on the fabrics — white cotton lace is very fashionable for summer. A white T-shirt/shirt of quality cotton should be a staple item in every wardrobe. A white satin slip with a little cardigan is the ultimate vintage look. Even a good white linen suit or dress is a must for beach holidays and goes with all kinds of sandals in every colour.

White, like black, never goes out of fashion. One summer, I swathed myself in white almost every day and was nicknamed ‘Spring Roll’ — a thin white layer on the outside with a lot of substance inside.

I like that.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis

and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at midto high-range prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1

Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices. Carries office-appropriate and party-ready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819

www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

TAILORS

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with Englishspeaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

asialife HCMC 73

'Summer of Discovery' at Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon

Photos by Linh Phanroy and Fred Wissink.

74 asialife HCMC

A dOSe of ESCAPE

asialife HCMC 75

1 h in Ch

an h

D

h in

PHU NHUAN Ng uye nV an

Huynh Va n Ban

h

nD

yn Hu

inh

Ph u

ng

Tro i

Tran Quang

B

Ph a

hV an B

Ng

Dieu

Na m

Tran Quang

T han g on g Qu y

Ly Ch inh ng

en Hi g on hu oi .T hu .C Ng

Ph u

n

Bi e

Ng uy en Th ien

en uy Ng

n So

e uy Ng

Th ua t

Pha

To

nh

ity rs al ve tur es i Un f Na nc o cie S

Ha

M hi nT

h in

K

nh Cha iet V m

Ng

ng Tro inh nB Tra

u Ph

76 asialife HCMC

uo An D

g uon ng V

r che Tea ining Tra ersity v Uni

Cu

n

DISTRICT 5

Van

an To

an Tr

n uye

ng Pho

g on Vu ng u H

Di

V

Ba nC o

Ly Tha i

E

Thanh

Qu ye n

en uy Ng

V C u M hu on ar o ke i t

Do

inh

V

Ca oT ha ng

District 11 2km

B

Ng uy en Th o

g2 han 3T

Tra nM

en Di

o Xu Tu

DISTRICT 10

D

u Sa

en

Lan Ma n Spo Anh g Th ang Leis rts & Tam ure Clu b

ung

i Th Vo

Ky D

inh

Tru on gD inh

on g

Th

H Hoa

Tran M

Cac h

Van Dang

en uy Ng

C

n Tra

Sa inh Train igon Quy Sta en tion

Tan Binh 0.5km

h

nS y

n Dang Tran M

Ky K

Le V a

Dieu

Tran V a

Nh Tran

Nguyen Du C4, D3, D4 Nguyen Hai Tu B4 Nguyen Hue D4, D5 Nguyen Huu Canh B2 Nguyen Huu Canh C5 Nguyen Huu Cau B3 Nguyen Khac Nhu E3 Nguyen Khoai F3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong B5 Nguyen Phi Khanh B3 Nguyen Sieu C5, D5 Nguyen Son Ha D2 Nguyen Tat Thanh E5 Nguyen Thai Binh D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc D3, E3, E4 Nguyen Thi Dieu D2, D3 Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, E1, E2 Nguyen Thong C1, C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien D2 Nguyen Trai D3, E2 Nguyen Trung Ngan C5 Nguyen Trung Truc D4 Nguyen Truong To E4, E5 Nguyen Van Cu E2 Nguyen Van Hai B3 Nguyen Van Lac B5 Nguyen Van Thu B4, C3, C4 Nguyen Van Troi B1 Pasteur C2, C3, C4, D4 Pham Hong Thai D2, D3 Pham Ngoc Thach C3 Pham Ngu Lao D3, D4, E3 Pham Viet Chanh B5 Pham Viet Chanh E2 Phan Dinh Phung B2 Phan Ke Binh B4 Phan Van Han B4, B5 Pho Duc Chinh D4, E4 Phung Khac Khoan C3, C4 Suong Nguyet Anh D2, D3 Tan Vinh E4 Thach Thi Thanh B3 Thai Van Lung C5 Thi Sach C5 Thu Khoa Huan D4 Ton Duc Thang C5, D4, D5, E4 Ton That Dam D4 Ton That Thiep D4 Ton That Tung D2, D3 Tran Binh Trong E1 Tran Canh Chan E2 Tran Cao Van C4 Tran Dinh Xu E2, E3 Tran Hung Dao D4, E2, E3 Tran Khac Chan B3 Tran Khanh Du B2, B3 Tran Minh Quyen D1 Tran Minh Quyen C1 Tran Nhan Ton E1 Tran Nhat Duat B3 Tran Phu E1 Tran Quang Dieu B1, B2 Tran Quang Khai B3, B2 Tran Quoc Thao C2, C3 Tran Quoc Toan B2, B3, B2 Tran Van Dang C1, C2 Truong Chinh C3 Truong Dinh C2, D3 Tu Xuong C2, C3, D2 Vinh Khanh E4, E5 Vo Thi Sau B3, C2, C3 Vo Van Tan C3, D2, D3 Vuon Chuoi D2 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh B4, B5 Yersin E4

Airport 3km

ng Ho Le

3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 NguyenDinhChieu B4,C3,C4,D1,D2,D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

A

Di en

Street Guide

2

yen Ngu

DISTR Trai

3

4

5

Gia Dinh Hospital

N

Ng .H uu

Ca u oc Toa n

V

iN

Tru on g

gh ia

TranQu

iS

Ph am

DISTRICT 3 Le Q

au

Hu ye n

uy o en Th Ng on g

Tu Ly

Ng

en uy

i Tra

i Le La

Tra i uye n Ng

Nh u g an Gi o C

Lac

HCM City Boat Quay (for Vung Tau)

n Do

i u Ha n Nh Doa

uo cH un g

gD an Ho

ieu

Vung Tau

h

Ho n

Kh

u r ie iT Ha

n ha tT Ta en uy Ng

H.

c Ba Co

Thu Thiem Ferry Port (for District 2)

e

o Ng

To

Ho

cK Du

g on Tru Ng

a Nh

Van Ben

h an Kh

an Tr

ng Hu

ao Xu C

Ba

Ng

V

Cat Lai Ferry 9km

nh Vi

TRICT 1

Din h

nh

nh Ca

ep

u g Tr Con Ng.

Le Q

am Th

Tra n

ri Cu T

am gG inh on iB H i ha h T T en Le uy Ng Ky C on ru gT on .C g N

De

yen Ngu

a

u Hu

i uo

Le Cong Kieu

te et lm Ca

Vien

iB Th

m

Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km

nh hi cC Du

Bu i

Ham Nghi

Du

hie

a

Na m

hi . Ng H.H

ac

u M p yen hie Hu T t e Ton Th a ng

St

n rsi Ye

t

an Tr

oc

Binh

CoT Marke ng Qu yn h

u Da Q.

hai

Do

ang

ao am Th

L Ngu Pham

De

ha nh

n Hu

o Da Bus tion g

Ngo

n To

Th a

ng

ha cK Thu h n Huy

i Lo Le

hK

en uy Ng

ac h

Do

Ng

ng . La

l

Bin

cT ha ng

h an Th e L

i Lo Le

Le

o Ph

Tu ng

Pham Hong Thai

inh

g

oi

To Tha

n .V Be anh t L e Th ark M

ye n

iV an Lu at ng u Q ieu a S B o Ng Ca

l al H n n h To w n

nT ru ng Tru c

on Tr

u Ma

To nT ha t

nN nA uye

Kh

an hT rin h

Th iS

m Da

Ng

H

Pa ste ur

g

Du

o & Ga Bo rd tan en ic s a

n en ga uy g N Ng un Tr

ng Tu

Tam

ng Tro

Do ng

Tu Ly

.

T. T

Tha ng

Kh

M

Ho

ang

H ai Th

Lu on gH uu K

ye

Cultural Park

an Xu ieng hi hi R T i Le T Bu

g on

Th u

Ch u

Ng u

an Du

To n

ur

ai Kh

u Ng

nh tA

Du en uy g N Ng uy e

Co ng Ch ua

inh

h nT

en uy

te Pas

an nT Va

Cao Th

ran

Tru on gD

n ye

h in

eu

Po Cen H st tra ai Of l Ba fic Tru e n

an Du Le

a gh H ia

u Ng

M

Di

Hu Re-unification ye Palace nT

Cac hM

Su

a

V

oi Th

ieu Ch

Vo

a Na ex m Al Ky Kh oi N

Le

Zo

t Da

nh

Nh ng Th an uo hQ H ua n an Xu o H hi nT ye u Ng

n

e eD dr

es od Rh

ie

eT gh N t

n Va an Ph

Di

iem

n H tele HTV oa visio ng n

ur

War n Remnants n Ta Museum o Va

Gi aT hi eu

Tie

DISTRICT 1

on

uo cT ha o

uy en

Pa ste

nh Di n ye u Ng Ma cD inh Ch i an V o a C an Tr

Ng oc Th ac h

V Xo

H St oa a Di diu Lu nh m

ieu Ch

n ua

n ye

Ng

uy D

e uy Ng

u Th an V n

h

in

2 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

h Cu

an

Tra nQ

hu nP Bie

en B Di a

m Ta n Va ark Le P

Qu ye n

oc To an

ho

Tr an

Qu

g

Ma iT hi Lu u Ke Bin h

Ng u yen Van

Va n

Cu a

aT run

Ph an

h Tin

Me Linh

iB

Tha ch T hi T han ng h u a Tr Sa .

C hi .

T D o

Huy n

ng uo Ph oc

i nh

Ha

Hoang S a

Ng HaiTu

Khai Tran Quang Ng. Phi Khanh L. V. Ph uc

Ng

Ky K

N

Van

n

m

hT

Cuu

e uy Ng

N g u yen

c Chan

Duat

Hu yn

ai .H .V

yen

Pham Van Han

Truon g Sa

Nguy en D u

Du

Ngu

BINH THANH

ha Tran K

h Tran Khan

Vo Huy Tan

Huynh Man Dat

o

Tha Ton D ng u Mu c seu m

La

at Tran Nh

yen gu

Cu

Dinh Tien Hoang

Phan Xich Long

Do

an Van B

District 7 & Nha Be

o

o Da asialife HCMC 77

DISTRICT 4

radar Films in HCMC

Dimovie.vn While ideally we all would learn Vietnamese during our stay in Ho Chi Minh City, it’s great to have a website making life a little easier in English. Easier, that is, if you’re going to the movies. Dimovie.vn updates throughout the week with times and locations for all movies screening in the city, along with trailers.

You can browse by district, see what’s currently playing or coming up, and narrow your search by film, theatre, or time. Unlike Megastar.vn or Galaxycine. vn, this website is entirely in English and has a cleaner look, making it easier to navigate for expats.

Free travel

Couchsurfing.org Couch Surfing’s most tangible use is to allow a traveller to stay for free with a local while visiting his town. The benefits for a shoestring budget are obvious, but many surfers also go this route just to get a local guide on a new destination. Sizable cities have their own groups for like-minded people to get together. The Ho Chi Minh City group has 11,000 members, though that includes passers-through. Novices rightly ask how host can trust guest and vice versa, but the site builds in safeguards to verify members. They also ask why anyone would offer his couch or bed to a stranger, but a few trials with Couch Surfing will convince you of the altruism of mankind. Plus, hosting others makes it easier to get hosted.

The benefits of self-deprecation

Whatshouldwecallme.tumblr.com You might enjoy life a bit more if you take it — and by extension, yourself — less seriously. Instead of resenting that waitress who seated others before you, remember the slight won’t matter next week. What Should We Call Me is a good reminder of how unimportant we are. The Tumblr site thrives on self-deprecation. Exhibit A: a GIF of a Monsters, Inc creature tripping in front of a man. The title: ‘Walking up to my crush’. Exhibit B: A Glee character saying, 'Pizza is good.' The title: ‘When I try to contribute to an intellectual conversation’. It’s sort of like a caption contest. File it under time wasters, with a little perspective.

78 asialife HCMC

soundfix album review

The-Dream IV Play

Who’s the musical mastermind behind Rihanna’s ‘Umbrella’, Beyonce’s ‘Single Ladies’ and Justin Bieber’s ‘Baby’? Answer: Terius Nash, also known as The-Dream. Though his name may not be as ubiquitous as the pop royalty he’s written for, The-Dream is also a solo artist in his own right. His prior four studio albums have garnered a select yet limited following, but his latest album IV Play aims to propel the R&B musician into the limelight. The-Dream hasn’t produced any songs of the chart-topping calibre he’s helped write for others, but he has crafted an enjoyable collection of slow jams with appearances from Big Sean, Jay-Z and Beyonce. Recalling 90s R Kelly without being too anachronistic, IV Play fits in well with the neo-R&B wave that Drake, The Wknd and Frank Ocean have been riding. As The-Dream sings on the album’s lead single, sometimes “you gotta slow it down”.

80 asialife HCMC

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Sonny & The Sunsets

Antenna to the Afterworld Most little boys — and some little girls — go through an outer space phase. Maybe it comes from a thirst for adventure, an existential desire to know what is out there, or just a viewing of E.T. With Antenna to the Afterworld, Sonny Smith turns his outer space fixation into an entire concept album. Songs like ‘Path of Orbit’, ‘Earth Girl’ and ‘Green Blood’ play close to the theme, with references to aliens, cyborgs and spaceships.

Together with his band, The Sunsets, Smith combines retro garage pop with futuristic synthesisers and hints of post punk and psychedelia — a departure from their country music-inspired previous album. Smith comes from San Francisco, the planet of patchouli and the carefree, and the West Coast sound is a dominant influence on his work. Though the intergalactic references may be far out, song lyrics stick closely to the universal motif of love so that us earthlings can still relate.

Kanye West Yeezus

Kanye West delivered two notable news items in one week. The first was the birth of the rapper’s daughter with reality TV star Kim Kardashian, whom the couple have decided to christen North West. The second delivery also came with a strange moniker — Yeezus, West’s sixth studio album.

Rife with religious symbolism amidst feisty pop culture allusions, the record proves to be West’s most controversial work. And controversy is what West has built his career on, in addition to his gift for slick rhymes and beats. Who else but Kanye West could create a song with the egomaniac title ‘I Am A God’ and somehow pull it off?

His delusions of grandeur are excused by an ability to be both catchy and compelling, to hold listeners’ attentions and leave them wanting more. Yeezus is West’s most experimental album, a feat of intriguing music choices such as a sample of Nina Simone’s ‘Strange Fruit’, dancehall hype calls and Daft Punk-produced tracks.

Laura Marling Once I Was An Eagle

When talent emerges in youth, it’s common to focus on the artist’s age: “Just 20 years old and so talented?” is the conventional remark one says.

Laura Marling, an English folk singer/guitarist with a husky voice and a knack for emotionally stirring songs, is “only” 23 years old. But Marling is not merely impressive for someone so young, she’s just plain talented. A fourth record, Once I Was An Eagle, demonstrates that Marling continues to evolve and strengthen the skills that have stood out since she released her debut record aged 18. Darker than her previous work and less easily classified as folk music, the album evokes the complexity and torment of Fiona Apple. There’s more polish on this record than Marling’s earlier discography, but without losing a sense of vulnerability.

Although her lyrics and vocals are introspective and intimate, Marling makes sonic choices that are more outward-looking — from employing her guitar to recall an Indian sitar to incorporating a playful Gypsy melody.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10 this last title week week 1 2 3

new 4 new

Only You Don't Run Away Wild

4

1

5 6

new 2

Here's To Never Growing Up Treasure Fall Down

7 8

15 11

9

new

Lucky Strike If You Could See Me Now Really Don't Care

14

The Woman I Love

10

artist CeeLo Green David Archuletta Jessie J feat Big Sean & Dizzee Rascal Avril Lavigne Bruno Mars Will.i.am feat Miley Cyrus Maroon 5 The Scripts Demi Lovato feat Cher Lloyd Jason Mraz

Australian Top 10 this last title week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1

Blurred Lines

4 new 5 2 9 new 6 7 1

Let Her Go Come With Me Get Lucky Unchained Melody Pompeii Heart Hypnotic We Own It 2 Parachute Dear Darlin'

artist Robin Thicke feat T.I. & Pharrell Passenger Ricky Martin Daft Punk feat Pharrell Harrison Craig Bastille Delta Goodrem Chainz feat Wiz Khalifa Timomatic Olly Murs

US Top 10 this last title week week 1

1

Can't Hold Us Down

2 3

2 3

Mirrors I Love It

4 5

5 4

6 7

9 7

Come & Get It Just Give Me A Reason Get Lucky Cruise

8

10

9 10

11 15

artist

Macklemore & Ryan Lewis feat Ray Dalton Justin Timberlake Icona Pop feat Charli XCX Selena Gomez Pink

Daft Punk feat Pharrell Florrider-Georgia Line feat Nelly My Songs Know What Fall Out Boy You Did...

The Other Side Jason Derulo Radioactive Imagine Dragons

Freakonomics

By Lien Hoang It’s a book! It’s a blog! It’s a podcast! No, it’s Freakonomics, the strangely successful marriage of convenience between a journalist and economist who set out to explain mysteries you didn’t know to ask about. And it turns out to be not totally useless. The same-named book, which gave birth to the Freakonomics empire, has a chapter tackling the drop in crime in the United States from the 1980s onward. Authors Stephen Dubner and Steven Levitt posit that legalising abortion in 1973 meant many unwanted babies weren’t born into poor neighbourhoods, where they would have been susceptible to crime.

In other media of varying forms, Stephen and Steven have argued that parking is too cheap, Christmas gifts are some of the most worthless things we can give, we create memories that never happened, and sumo wrestling is designed for cheating. As you can see, Freakonomics is difficult to label, though it initially was described as a way to make economics fun and compelling to non-economists.

After the book took off, it expanded into a multi-platform project (I usually get my Freakonomics fix by listening to the podcast, but was introduced to it via the book and its sequel, Superfreakonomics).

The creators usually explain that their radio show / book

explores “the hidden side of everything”, which gives them pretty free reign to dig into any topic they want. Often it involves crunching data to make sense of it. A recent episode notes that tipping amounts to $40 billion in the United States, three-quarters of it in restaurants. The show throws in interesting tidbits: for example, whites make higher tips than blacks (even from black customers); and gratuity has an astonishingly low correlation with service quality (ie, diners generally tip by rote / obligation).

Stephen (the journalist) runs the podcast and sometimes invites Steven (the economist) on to pick his brain. And sometimes Stephen goes it alone. After the Boston bombings this year, he aired a 1999 interview he conducted with Ted Kaczynski (aka the Unabomber) to discuss the parallels between the pairs of brothers in each mass killing. Freakonomics can be American-centric, but it also brings up a lot of global issues. For example, Superfreakonomics includes a section on geo-engineered fixes for climate change, such as injecting sulfur dioxide into the stratosphere to cool the earth. And one podcast episode tests out driverless cars, which, it must be said, can only help the nightmare of road accidents in Ho Chi Minh City.

asialife HCMC 81

boxoffice

Despicable Me 2

The Lone Ranger

This is the End

The Wolverine

Universal Pictures and Illumination Entertainment's worldwide blockbuster Despicable Me entertained audiences around the globe in 2010, grossing more than $540 million and becoming the 10th-biggest animated motion picture in US history.

Now, get ready for more Minion madness in Despicable Me 2. This animated comedy-adventure features the return of Gru (Steve Carell), the girls, the unpredictable and hilarious minions, and a host of new characters. This time, the Anti-Villain League recruits Gru to help deal with a new super criminal named Eduardo (Al Pacino).

From the filmmaking team behind the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise, comes this adventure infused with action and humour, in which the famed masked hero is brought to life through new eyes. Native American spirit warrior Tonto (Johnny Depp) recounts the untold tales that transformed John Reid (Armie Hammer), a man of the law, into a legend of justice.

The duo takes the audience on a runaway train of surprises and friction, as the two unlikely heroes must learn to work together and fight against greed and corruption.

This comedy follows six of Hollywood’s funniest actors — James Franco, Seth Rogen, Jonah Hill, Jay Baruchel, Danny McBride and Craig Robinson (who all play themselves) — after they are trapped in a house when a series of strange and catastrophic events devastate Los Angeles. As the world unravels outside, dwindling supplies and cabin fever threaten to tear apart the friendships inside. Eventually, they are forced to leave the house, facing their fate and the true meaning of friendship and redemption.

Based on the celebrated comic book arc, this action-adventure takes Wolverine (Hugh Jackman), the most iconic character of the X-Men universe, to modern day Japan. Out of his depth in an unknown world, he will face a host of unexpected and deadly opponents in a life-ordeath battle that will leave him forever changed. Vulnerable for the first time and pushed to his physical and emotional limits, he confronts not only lethal samurai steel but also his inner struggle against his own immortality.

Opening Dates CINEMAS M: Megastar Cinema Megastar.vn

G: Galaxy Cinema Galaxycine.vn

82 asialife HCMC

Despicable Me 2 (3 July) The Lone Ranger (12 July) This is the End (19 July) The Wolverine (26 July) Despicable Me 2 (3 July)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Crazy Rich Asians

Big Data

Kevin Kwan

Viktor Mayer-Shönberger and Kenneth Cukier

Doubleday

Dolan/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

The Chinese nouveau riche of Singapore are the subject of Kevin Kwan’s biting novel. Rachel is an ABC — that is, American-born Chinese — who plans to summer with her boyfriend’s family in Singapore. Little does she know that he is heir to one of the biggest fortunes in Asia. Crazy Rich Asians depicts the lives of Asia’s very rich and sometimes famous, those who travel by private jets, live in palatial homes and flash their wealth to the point of vulgarity. As Rachel gets to know Nick’s family and friends, she discovers a world of socialites, billionaires and backstabbers. Can her love for Nick overcome the obstacles, including resistance from his snobbish mother?

Bad Monkey Carl Hiaasen Alfred A Knopf

Screwball situations and zany characters abound in Carl Hiaasen’s latest novel. The plot begins when a tourist fishes out a severed human arm off the coast of Florida. Rather than proceed with a murder mystery, Hiaasen uses the gruesome catch as the start of a chain of comedic events. The limb is left in the care of Andrew Yancy, a former cop demoted to restaurant inspector, who is the story’s protagonist. That is, if you don’t count Driggs, the book’s eponymous bad monkey.

After getting kicked off a movie set for lewd behaviour, the primate actor washes up on a Bahamian island and gets taken in by an alcoholic voodoo queen. Sounds crazy? It is, but that’s just Hiaasen’s speciality.

Big Data is watching. Those with Orwellian anxiety about surveillance will find their fears justified in Viktor MayerShönberger and Kenneth Cukier’s investigative work. ‘Big data’ refers to the vast flow of information about our lives that is being produced, collected and used to predict our habits. An example can be found in how Google uses search histories to sell targeted advertisements. Or, as recently revealed, how the US National Security Agency mass gathers civilian phone records, emails and logins in its efforts to track terrorists. Though big data can be used to identify widespread trends and help find solutions to societal problems, it raises significant questions about what constitutes privacy in the modern age.

A Constellation of Vital Phenomena Anthony Marra Hogarth

Set in war-torn Chechnya from 1994 and 2004, Anthony Marra’s debut novel explores the emotional collateral damage of long-term conflicts. Havaa is eight years old when her house is burned down and her father is taken away for a crime he didn’t commit. Her neighbour, Akhmed, takes her to an abandoned hospital in the nearby city of Volchansk and places her in the care of Sonja, an ethnic Russian doctor.

Each of the characters is searching for something — a missing sister, redemption, revenge — as a fragile constellation connects them all together. With so much lost and so much to lose, the three struggle to survive amongst the brutality of war.

asialife HCMC 83

ODD ONE OUT Bored with your daily motorbike commute? Dana Filek-Gibson offers a way to spice up your already chaotic drive.

Of course, I have no desire to get myself into an accident, but with my attention span and the amount of time I spend on the road, there needs to be something more than just driving involved.

84 asialife HCMC

In Saigon, driving is a large part of my life. For at least an hour each day, I spend my time dodging people who text, do their makeup, window shop, or walk into traffic without looking.

Despite the infinite possibilities for disaster, my safety record is pretty strong: rarely do I drive the wrong way down a street or forget to use the correct turn signal. I always wear a helmet, stop at red lights, and look both ways before passing through an intersection. Only on occasion do I find myself between a guardrail and a Saigon Bus, and generally it is as a result of someone else's poor judgment. My greatest fault is that I sometimes close my eyes while driving — what with all the pollution in the air — but only for a second.

However, being an incredibly safe, occasionally blind driver in the big city is not as glamourous as it sounds. Now that I'm a seasoned expert in the rules of the road, there is no longer the terrifying, exhilarating adrenaline rush of a near-death experience incorporated into my daily commute. Of course, I have no desire to get myself into an accident, but with my attention span and the amount of time I spend on the road, there needs to be something more than just driving involved. Thus, I present to you a game I have invented to spice up the regular commute. For when you're bored of traffic — or better yet, NOT driving — I encourage you to try Saigon Bingo, a game in which you earn points by spotting as many uniquely Saigon characters as you can, all within a single drive to work. Feel free

to add your own individuals to the list below and remember to keep your eyes (sort of) on the road.

A Tourist (1 point) Known for their mismatched style of dress and general confusion, these are some of the easiest targets to pick out.

Anyone who appears lost, sweaty and sporting a non la with gym shorts is probably a safe bet. Tack on an extra point for a tourist you catch venturing outside of Districts 1, 3 or 5.

A Motorbike Narcoleptic (2 points) If you've been in the city for any reasonable amount of time you can recall at least one occasion where you had to rouse a xe om driver from a snooze atop his motorbike. Add extra points for anyone who a) has their mouth open or b) is not a xe om driver but rather a regular person just taking a nap.

A Balloon Man (3 points) People carry a lot of things on their motorbikes — pets, home furnishings, TVs, precious works of art — but what is easily the most impressive to me is the baggage of a balloon salesman. The sheer number of inflatable cartoon characters a person can shove onto the back of a Honda Dream is inspiring, never mind the fact that this individual is able to successfully navigate the bike through city traffic without popping a balloon. Double your points if he is carrying a full stock and is barely visible beneath that mountain of inflated Hello Kitty and Doraemon characters.

A Floral Ninja (2 points) You are, of course, familiar with the many practical, floral-patterned ways that the women of Saigon combat the sun. While you may find any number of people who look dressed up for a bank robbery or some very strange version of a garden party, it is more difficult — though certainly not impossible — to find a woman covered head to toe, from the full-facial ninja mask to the hooded jacket, the overthe-leg apron and sunglasses.

Should you come across this person during your morning commute, remember that she must have an assortment of floral prints in order to count in this category.

Beautiful Godzilla (2 points) This is a phrase originally coined in an American cycling book I once read, but the Beautiful Godzilla exists in all areas of the driving world.

When you're playing this game during your daily commute, search for an exceptionally beautiful, well-dressed woman — someone whose appearance takes your breath away — and who is a HORRIBLE DRIVER. She puts on lipstick in her wing mirror. She talks on her cell phone. She makes a left-hand turn from the far right side of the road. And behind her, she leaves a trail of accidents in her wake. In a city of bad drivers, this person stands out as one of the greatest threats on the road. If you spot her, pass her, and live to tell the tale, consider yourself lucky, not only in this game but in life as well.

This Country Life Seasons come and go in the Vietnamese countryside, but always at the right time for Walter Pearson.

One of the reasons I enjoy the countryside so much is because of the very nature of it.

The seasons come around regularly, perhaps monotonously, but always at just the right time.

Tet time — which the Vietnamese call spring — is really still winter. The days are warm and pleasant, the humidity low. I enjoy wearing long pants in comfort. I can be assured to play tennis every day and go to Ho Chi Minh City at anytime. The nights are cool to the point of cold. We cuddle together under one, and sometimes two, blankets.

But as that serenity sets in, the bush finally dries harsh. The dust rises. My wife complains about the fine layer of it covering everything. Local boys trawl through the bamboo grove next door to find the snakes that become active.

The temperature rises, the breezes drop. The humidity lifts and the rivulets of sweat start running down chest and back, under arms and from the brow.

Nights are hot and humid, sleep difficult. Fans just don’t seem to be enough.

I begin thinking of a cheap VND 8-10 million air conditioner, just for the bedroom, to make nights more comfortable.

Then the rains and relief come.

Air conditioners are forgotten.

It takes two rain showers for the rubber trees to sprout new green. Below, the dry leaf litter seems to disappear by magic.

The dust ceases. The cool sweet smell of wet earth drifts in through the bedroom window at night.

Early in the rainy season, the moi (termites) have their first love fest. Just when it is about to rain, insects with big wings flood into the house chasing the lights. We rush to close all doors and windows and extinguish the lights to avoid carpets of dead insects through the house.

Outside against the front door the next day, like a sand drift, they are piled up, defying efforts to remove them, their frail remains and broken wings floating up with every sweep of the broom.

At about this time, the phuong trees come out, their red flowers demanding my attention. Our daughter delights in their ar-

rival at the end of the academic year. Alongside them, the chuoi trees, with magnificent cluster blooms in a vibrant gold. And everywhere, nearly all year around, the bougainvillaea with white, red, orange and purple flowers so accurately called paper flowers by the Vietnamese.

Wonderful large-leafed shade trees called mongbo — because their year-round mauve flowers look like cattle hooves — protect the coffee shops.

With the wet come the amphibians: frogs, toads and bullfrogs. The Vietnamese, as in so many things, discriminate strictly. Frogs call when the rain starts. We can eat frogs. Toads call before the rain starts and let us know that thunder and lightning are to follow. They know this because they are Ong Troi’s (the heavenly spirit's) chosen. Anyone who kills a toad will suffer. The bullfrogs call out during the storms, their deep-throated rumble carrying over the noise of the rain and the thunder predicted by the toads.

At night, as the rain settles into phun, a sort of heavier-

than-drizzle drizzle, the fireflies come into the bedroom. They enchant us. Two fireflies high above the mosquito net, up near the ceiling, circling each other in a dance of love.

But someone has to eat them.

That is left to the than lan, those little wall runners foreigners call geckos, or their giant relatives the cac ke, which are really geckos, with a call so loud they frighten children. I first heard one on patrol in the jungles of Ba Ria. I originally thought it was the Viet Cong calling out in the night in readiness to attack.

When told, I could not believe a lizard was capable of such a loud sound.

As the rains persist, the roads become more impassable. I constantly look over my shoulder at the threatening storm clouds, calculating how far I can go without being drenched. The towels don’t dry. Or dry me.

Now sweat won’t evaporate because the humidity is too high.

At this point Ong Troi takes pity and the rains drop off.

The bush remains green and temperatures abate. Tet is a little way away. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz Green

July

1. Which highly successful American football team is the only non-profit, communityowned major league professional sports team in the United States?

2. Billie Joe Armstrong is the lead vocalist with which band?

3. Who wrote The Quiet American, set in Vietnam?

4. Where in London is the Royal Observatory?

5. Who is the archenemy of Danger Mouse?

21. Which bilingual country’s birthday is Jul. 1?

22. What name is given in English-speaking countries to the French National Day, celebrated on the 14th of July each year?

23. Which battle is commemorated each year by some of the population of Northern Ireland on Jul. 12?

24. Which Asian country, the smallest in both population and land area, celebrates its independence on Jul. 26?

25. Which country became an independent state on Jul. 9, 2011?

11. What term was given by European immigrants to the Khoikhoi people of Southwestern Africa?

12. What did the Mongolfier brothers fly in 1783?

13. Who was the lead singer of Hot Chocolate?

14. What is traditionally eaten on Good Friday?

15. Much of which capital's heating comes from natural hot springs?

Haze 16. Who wrote the song ‘A Hazy Shade of Winter’?

17. Which successful singer starred in the 1980 film Breaking Glass?

18. Forest fires in which country caused the 1997 Southeast Asian Haze?

19. 12-year-old Dolores Haze is the main character in which Nabokov novel?

20. In which film did Colonel Nathan R. Jessup order the hazing of Private William Santiago at Guantanamo Bay Naval Base?

86 asialife HCMC

Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp THAØNH PHOÁ Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@ nxbhcm.com.vn Website:www.nxbhcm.com.vn - www.sachweb.vn Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty CP TT QC AsiaLIFE Media In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 620-13/CXB/282-58/THTPHCM Ngaøy 09/05/2013 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 07/2013 AsiaLIFE Media Advertising Communications JSC 2Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Da Kao Ward, District 1 Tel: +84 8 6680 6105

Celebrities on Steroids 26)

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 908 833 210 / +84 8 6680 6105 or nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © AsiaLIFE Media Advertising Communications JSC

27)

2

9 2

8 28)

1

3

7

4

1

9

4 9 3

30)

3

6

8

29)

4

6

1

6

3

5

2

5

9 8

Pub Quiz Answers

Hot

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Hoaøng Phöông Söûa baûn in: Minh Ñaêng Trình baøy: Coâng ty CP TT QC ASIALIFE MEDIA Bìa: Coâng ty CP TT QC ASIALIFE MEDIA

1) Green Bay Packers 2) Green Day 3) Graham Greene 4) Greenwich 5) Baron Silas Greenback 6) Caspian Sea 7) Lake Baikal 8) Wet Wet Wet 9) George Frideric Handel 10) Seven 11) Hottentots 12) Hot Air Balloon 13) Errol Brown 14) Hot Cross Buns 15) Reykjavik 16) Paul Simon 17) Haze O’Connor 18) Indonesia 19) Lolita 20) A Few Good Men 21) Canada 22) Bastille Day 23) Battle of the Boyne 24) Maldives 25) South Sudan 26) Dalai Lama 27) Quentin Tarantino 28) Salvador Dali 29) Meryl Streep 30) Morgan Freeman

Wet 6. What, by area, is the largest enclosed inland body of water on Earth?

7. What is the deepest lake in the world?

8. Popped In Souled Out was which band’s first album?

9. The Water Music premiered on Jul. 17 1717 after King George I had requested a concert on the River Thames, who composed it?

10. How many players are there in a water polo team?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC