AsiaLIFE HCMC November 2014

a life

less ordinary

ISBN: 978-604-905-626-0

Why we love out of the box Energized Engaged Empowered

Because at ISHCMC we understand that out of the box thinking leads to originality and innovation.

thinking

Today’s students need to do more than memorize information in traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and see the difference we can make in your child’s life.

A fully accredited IB World School, authorized to teach all 3 programs of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students ages 2 – 18 years.

28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com Nozomi & Thijmen, Early Explorers ISHCMC Students

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

www.asialifemagazine.com

NOVEMBER 2014

VOLUME 80

12

Front

F OO D & D R I N K

EVENTS . . .............................................................. 0 6 NEWS .................................................................. 0 8 TOP 5: Downtown Cafes ........................ 1 1 Q &A With Huong Nguyen .............................................. 1 4

Thang Map

PHOTO ESSAY

Hardcore in Thailand .............................................. 1 6

C ov e r Sto ry A life Less Ordinary

How two expats found new adventure later in life .... 2 0

F e at u r e s Duel Lense

History Channel Asia's Photo Face-Off .. .................... 2 6

Trial Blazing

One man brings trial biking to Vietnam ................... 2 8

Tim Doling: Exploring HCMC

The quintessential guide to Saigon is here................ 3 0

League of Extraordinary Gentlemen Saigon's trendiest motorists dress up for a good cause ... 3 2

T r av e l One NIGHT in BAngkok

Five must-visit venues on Bangkok's Soi 11............... 3 4

CALLING A BLUFF

Greg Norman's newest golf course. . ........................ 3 6

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Beer and brats downtown ...................................... 3 8

Romeo & Juliet

The height of subterranean fine dining .................... 3 9

The Racha Room

Trendy Thai ............................................................. 4 0

Quan Ga Nuong Anh Tuyet

Authentic Vietnamese chicken barbecue . . ................ 4 1

S TYLE & D E S I G N The THings We Carry

What AsiaLIFE staff is into this month . . ................... 4 2

Ava's Closet

East meets West in this Australian label . . ................. 4 4

C OLU M N S IMBIBE ............................................................................. 5 2 LOCAL EATS ............................................................... 5 4

FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 6 Kid's Corner ........................................................... 6 0 HOME IMPROVEMENT .......................................... 6 2 Personal Finance ............................................. 6 3 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 6 4 FASHION RULES ....................................................... 6 6 odd one out ........................................................ 7 6 LETTER FROM HANOI ........................................... 7 7

events Wild Beasts at Cargo Bar 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 UK indie band Wild Beasts will make their Vietnam debut with Saigon’s own Space Panther on 12 November at Cargo Bar. Since signing to legendary UK indie label Domino in 2008, Wild Beasts has been known for their falsettos and emotional melodies. Their sophomore album Two Dancers (2009) earned them the prestigious Mercury Prize back home. Their fourth and current album, Present Tense, is their most successful to date, earning the band ‘Top 10’ status in the UK for their dark synths, wit and romance. Tickets at Cargo Bar are VND 350,000 or VND 250,000 with student ID and can be purchased online.

21 st Annual International Charity Bazaar White Palace Convention Centre, 194 Hoang Van Thu Street, Phu Nhuan District The HCMC Consular Club’s 21st annual International Charity Bazaar continues its tradition of selling goods and foods from all over the world to raise funds to give back to the community.

At the Bazaar, guests can purchase a wide range of international items as well as tickets for the popular Grand Raffle. Lucky draw tickets are available for VND 50,000 each. Past prizes have included airline tickets, resort stays, spa packages and more. Every prize in the raffle is valued at more than USD $100. Funds generated from the Bazaar will be used to provide scholarships, medical care, improved rainwater purification, flood relief and much more in Vietnam.

Santa Claus will also be there to have his photo taken with children and adults. Organisers expect this year’s bazaar to receive more than 2,100 guests. Entry to the Bazaar is VND 100,000 for adults. Children under 10 accompanied by an adult can enter free of charge. For more information, contact the Consular Club at charitybazaarhcmc2014@gmail.com or visit Consularclub.com.

Live Music

Prisma - The 5K Evening Fun Run ft Lil Jon on stage Truong Van Bang Street, D2 Prisma is Vietnam’s first-ever 5km evening fun run where runners are an integrated part of a music festival. The event will take runners into different electric-themed concerts with several artists, including Katsy Lee and Ace & Image courtesy of Prisma Ramos. “This is a one-of-a-kind 5K nighttime fun run. As darkness falls, the light just gets brighter, the fun more fun, and the awesome memories more vivid. One thing is for sure, everyone will have a blast while doing it,” according to Prisma’s website. The concert will also feature Atlanta-born rapper, producer and DJ Lil Jon, who is known for performing hip-hop called ‘crunk’.

Registration fee: VND 650.000/person (from 20 Oct - 9 Nov) Runners receive a Prisma Kit (1 T-shirt, rucksack and BIB number). For more info, visit Prismarun.com.

Music & Fitness

Shopping & Entertainment

This Month's Cover

For more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

Art Direction: Kendra Bernard Photography: Vinh Dao Models: Roger Ferrell, Mary Lower

www.AsiaLifeMagazine.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com Art Director Kendra Bernard kendra@asialifemagazine.com

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Photo Editor Vinh Dao photoeditor@asialifemagazine.com Managing Editor Dana Filek-Gibson dana@asialifemagazine.com Style Editor Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Contributing Editor Michael Tatarski michael@asialifemagazine.com Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Administrator Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

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news Image courtesy of Thanh Nien News

Nguyen Hue Street blocked until next year Nguyen Hue Street in District 1 is now blocked off until 28 April 2015, thereby closing the street to traffic between Le Loi and Ton Duc Thang, the Department of Transport (DOT) recently announced. The street will reopen as a pedestrianonly boulevard lined with new trees, flowers and advanced lighting, costing an estimated VND 398 billion. As a result, the DOT proposed the Tax Department and the local People’s Committee issue tax breaks to businesses affected by the street closure. A list of alternate routes to the area can be found online at Thanh Nien News.

Rising tides threaten to erode a third of Hoi An

Vietnamese students create street travel app, TripHero

Electric buses to come to HCMC

Three students from Vietnam National University recently developed TripHero, a free app that displays a local map with updated information about traffic jams, accidents, thefts and hotspots within a two-kilometre status.

Image courtesy of VNA/VNS Photo Thanh Ha

Rising tides from the rainy season are threatening to erode a third of the central tourist town of Hoi An, according to Voice of Vietnam.

Over the last month, a 300-metre section of households and hotels along Hoi An’s Cua Dai beach has been ravaged by waves that uprooted coconut trees and electricity poles.

Tides have gradually swallowed the threekilometre stretch, and some sections have even eroded 40 metres into the shore. Hoi An’s local People’s Committee put forth VND 10 billion to rebuild the beach, but strong waves and winds have hindered the effort.

The students – Huynh Phuong Duy, Le Van Tai and Nguyen Thanh An – conceived the app for their graduation project, as a tool to help bus users update routes and schedules based on the app’s information. The app uses crowdsourcing so that community users can contribute real-time street information that is encrypted and displayed. For now, the database remains limited since the number of users is small, and information is focused on HCMC and Hanoi. However, the app received positive reviews at this year’s Hackathon. TripHero can be downloaded for both Android and iOS.

Following Hanoi’s lead, the southern hub may soon adopt electric bus services for its tourists under a recently-approved pilot project from the local People’s Committee.

Though exact specifications for the program have yet to be fleshed out – operation times, vehicle sizes and other details must be submitted to city authorities before 10 November – HCMC’s Department of Transport is already deliberating whether to offer these eco-friendly vehicles as taxis or stick to a series of well-traveled routes around downtown HCMC.

Concert held in two-million-year-old cave in Ha Long Bay

Image courtesy of www.halongbay.info

Last month, more than 20 artists convened in Ha Long Bay’s ancient Dau Go cave for a 30-minute acoustic concert as part of the AsianEuropean New Music festival. It was the first time Vietnam hosted the festival, which was organised by the Ministry of Culture and the music associations of Russia and the Republic of Tatarstan. Accommodating an audience of about 200 guests, the artists performed with traditional acoustic instruments, such as zithers, monochords, two-string violins and flutes. “We won’t need any surround sound speakers; this will be a totally natural event. Even the concert’s light will be supplied by candles,” said composer Do Hong Quan.

New draft decree regulates temperature, food safety for beer-selling The Ministry of Trade and Industry recently introduced a new draft decree that would require brewers and beer sellers not to serve beer in places where the temperature is higher than 30C, thereby forcing beer locations and bia hoi to install proper ventilation and equipment. It would also require beer to be stored at least 15cm away from the ground and 30cm and 50cm from the wall and ceiling, respectively.

The latest draft decree follows another controversial draft decree that oversees the sales of alcoholic products, including a clause that bans selling beer on the sidewalk. Though that clause was dropped earlier this month due to feedback from beer businesses, the new draft decree is similarly causing initial objections from the public, who remain skeptical about its feasibility. “I bet the draft composers always drink beer in air-conditioned rooms,” one reader commented online at Tuoi Tre.

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Vietnam averages 15,000 new cases of breast cancer each year

Image courtesy of Tuoi Tre

Deputy Minister of Health Nguyen Thi Xuyen reported that Vietnam averages roughly 15,000 new breast cancer patients each year, a 69 percent increase from the previous decade. Of the growing number of Vietnamese women who develop the disease, as many as 70 percent of the country’s cases are detected late, making the cancer more difficult to treat and lowering patients’ chance of survival. Along with other public health officials, Deputy Minister Xuyen pointed out that few women in Vietnam are well-informed about breast cancer and spoke of the need to educate the general public about the disease.

Vietnam Airlines to have world’s most advanced aircraft

Vietnam Airlines is expected to receive the world’s most advanced commercial aircraft, the USD $340 million Airbus 350 XWB, in June 2015, making it the second airline in the world to own the aircraft, after Qatar Airways. The Airbus 350 XWB twin-engine jetliner stands out in the market for its size, range, revenue and passenger comfort. Among its advanced features, the jetliner saves up to 25 percent on fuel and also supports wi-fi. To ensure high performance and durability, it underwent testing in hot and cold environments for 14 months at Eglin Air Force Base in Florida, US. Vietnam Airlines has ordered 10 of the jetliners and will begin operating the first in the third quarter of next year with direct air routes from Hanoi and HCMC to France and other European countries.

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O L R E CA

T N O M

4 1 0 2 A L A G Y T I R A CH

TICKET PRICE

T HOTEL T A Y H K M PAR ND - 6.30P 2 2 ER asino NOVEMB rlo c

2.900.000VND

te Ca

n e: Mo d o c ress

D Points of sale

D1: Centre MĂŠdical International - 1 Han Thuyen St. Annam Gourmet - 16 - 18 Hai Ba Trung St.

D2: Annam Gourmet - 41A Thao Dien St. D7: Annam Gourmet - SB2 - 1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh St.

For more details please contact: lorraine.alamartine@cmi-vietnam.com or 08 38 27 23 66/67

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A design by Starseed

top 5

downtown

cafes

picks of the month

Finding the perfect place to work, meet or simply unwind can be tough. Dana Filek-Gibson seeks out the best downtown cafes and gets a heavy caffeine buzz in the process. Photos by Vinh Dao. A good cafe is hard to find. Sure, there are plenty to choose from – you can't turn around in this town without someone handing you a ca phe sua da – but a quiet place that knows its way around a cup of coffee remains a rare find in Saigon. More elusive still is a local spot yet to be influenced by the likes of Taylor Swift or, worse, those kids from Glee. And yet, in spite of every run-of-the-mill coffeeshop from here to Binh Duong, there is reason to remain optimistic.

Just when you think the city's coffee culture has lost its spark, step into one of these spaces and witness the new age of the Saigon cafe.

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1

The

Bean

Store

399 Vo Van Tan, D3 08 39 295 678 // 9am – 10pm

When The Bean Store's owners returned from a trip to Singapore a few years back and couldn't find a place in Saigon that sold their favourite snacks, they did what any respectable self-starters would do: opened a cafe themselves. Now with locations in both District 1 and District 3, the modest shop boasts an eclectic but enticing menu which includes fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki, Singaporean-style char kway teow and a host of soya products, from soft serve ice cream and silky pudding to dozens of soy-based drinks. While The Bean Store's second shop, hidden downstairs in the food court of the Union Square building at 171 Dong Khoi, is closer to the downtown action, its original location offers a bit more charm.

2

Cakes

& Ale

23 Ly Tu Trong, Room 9, 1st floor, D1 09 06 840 500 // 9am – 10pm

If coffee-roasters and high-ceilinged spaces are the stuff of innovation, Cakes & Ale does its best to keep the local cafe scene in balance, celebrating what owner Nguyen Hoang calls 'Old Saigon'. A passion project, the cafe – which is housed in a first-floor apartment on Ly Tu Trong – serves as a reminder of decades past, outfitted in vintage furniture and nostalgia items from the pre-1975 era, including old-school black-and-white photographs, handpainted advertisements and an impressive collection of first-edition Doraemon comics. Born and raised in Saigon, Hoang and his wife not only run this modest space but are also the duo behind the Cakes & Ale bakery, which produces a range of Western- and Asian-style desserts, some of which are even prepared in the open kitchen area of the cafe, allowing visitors to watch the process start to finish. A series of other little touches – the vintage music, the chess board in the garden, the complete lack of street noise and a precocious, mustachioed black-and-white cat make the place feel like home.

3

The

Workshop

27 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 08 38 246 801 // 7am – 8pm

Between its sky-high ceilings, enormous windows and massive wooden tables, The Workshop is the antithesis of a Saigon cafe. And yet, in a city known for its tiny, cloistered coffeeshops, this minimalist space has managed to amass a devout following of coffee-drinkers thanks to its premium beans, roasted in-house, and the clean, industrial feel of the place. To the uninitiated, brewing a cup of coffee at The Workshop can look more like a science project than a drink order, with enough bells and whistles behind its large, rectangular bar to rival your high school chemistry lab. But the results are undeniable: one sip of The Workshop's freshly-brewed coffee and you'll see what all the fuss is about. Beyond beverages, a decent selection of salads, sandwiches, pasta and burgers also make it onto the menu, and the cafe's mellow atmosphere makes it a good spot for meeting, working or simply hanging out.

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4

Vanilla

& Butter

8A/C2 Thai Van Lung, D1 09 37 722 518 // 10am – 10pm

Make a right-hand turn off Thai Van Lung and you'll find yourself in another world: welcome to Saigon's very own land of the rising sun, a web of alleyways packed with Japanese noodle shops, sake bars and, of course, cafes. Vanilla & Butter stands out for its decadent cakes, which include red velvet, matcha chiffon, rum raisin and a particularly tasty soya cheesecake. The bright upstairs sitting area would not be out of place in a Pottery Barn display, complete with wooden tables and a collection of colourful ceramics for sale, not to mention Japanese touches like the woven baskets underneath each table – for your bag – or the stack of kanji-covered magazines in the corner. A handful of drinks, from Vietnamese coffee and matcha lattes to pots of English Breakfast tea, round out Vanilla & Butter's menu.

5

Things 14 Ton That Dam, 1st floor, D1 08 66 786 205 // 9am – 10pm

Before you even reach Things' bright yellow front door, the crumbling building at 14 Ton That Dam gives off a distinctly bohemian vibe, its staircase surrounded by low-stooled openair cafes and secondhand bookshops. Nestled among vintage clothing boutiques and tattoo parlours, Things is a quintessential Saigon cafe, hidden from street view and decorated in mix-and-match fashion with everything from flowers and board games to birdcages and black-and-white photographs.

Kick back on one of the brightly-patterned sofas and you'll be surprised how easy it is to while away the hours here.

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Huong Nguyen Having styled more than 3,000 men and women – including high-profile business leaders, politicians and BBC TV personalities – Saigon-born image consultant and founder of Inspired Image, Huong Nguyen, shares with Ruben Luong the secrets to feeling attractive and confident. Photo by Neil Massey. (Photo copyright: Huong Nguyen)

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What is each consultation with each client like? What is the process?

Why do you think image is important?

In my 12 years as an image consultant, what I’ve discovered is this: image is all about communication – it’s our silent yet powerful communication tool. It influences how people feel, think and act towards us because, whether we want to or not, people are always going to make their initial assessment about us based on our appearance. And sometimes, it’s the first and only opportunity for others to shape their opinion of us. This is especially true when it comes to business: whether we’re attending an interview, networking, pitching a deal, representing our company in the media or even going on a date!

The way we look tells others about our strengths, our values and our personality, so I believe it’s crucial that our image does justice to our capabilities and our sense of self. If we look like we pay attention to ourselves, people will feel more confident about us. We’ll gain their trust.

Having an effective image also gives us more confidence. My clients often say that, post-consultation, they can fully focus on the task at hand and not be distracted by the discomfort caused by an ill-fitting garment, or the fear that their image isn’t ”good enough”.

How does making the most of our image differ from, say, being obsessed with the way we look?

Making the most of our image is completely different from being showy, or being obsessed with the way we look. It means accepting our physique – flaws and all – and making the most of what we’ve already got. It’s about choosing what’s suitable for us and making the right investment in ourselves, so that our image tells others about the real us, whilst making the most of who we are.

Who are your clients?

Men and women – from CEOs to graduates – who want to make the most of themselves. I also deliver customised workshops on professional image to organisations of all sizes.

Each consultation is totally different because no two clients are alike, in terms of their physique, age, lifestyle, personality, job, budget and style preferences. These are the key factors that define a person’s image.

So before we begin the consultation, we discuss the client’s needs and expectations, and I try to find out as much as I can about that client – everything they tell me remains confidential, by the way.

The components of the consultation vary according to the client’s needs: it could cover advice on personal style, colour combinations, hair, personal grooming, accessorising, make-up for women, a personal shopping trip or coaching on dining etiquette. My aim is to help clients look good, look stylish, look appropriate in different situations and feel confident about themselves.

What different needs, if any, do your Asian clients have?

Asian clients have particular physical characteristics. For example, Asian women tend to be more petite and they often look younger than their age, and with that comes the risk of looking underpowered, or not being taken seriously at work. Secondly, in Asian cultures, we have different attitudes towards beauty and personal grooming, which may not be understood by people from other cultures. Then there are the environmental challenges of a hot, humid climate, plus the traffic congestion and difficult modes of transport, such as motorbikes and buses. I show clients how to choose the right clothing fit and styles, hair, make-up, grooming techniques and accessories that can handle these challenges and also make them look professional in an international setting.

What lifestyle changes are common across all clients?

My clients tell me that their lives are simplified: they find it easier to choose clothes after discovering what works for them. They say that they save money as they no longer buy clothes that don’t suit them. Many clients tell me that they now own fewer clothes, but the clothes are more versatile and they enjoy their clothes much more. This saves them time getting ready each morning. They often say that they “no longer wander around the shops not knowing what to buy”. My philosophy is simplicity works and that less can be more.

I’m happy that my clients seem to benefit from this approach.

How does one begin to make changes in one’s appearance?

Change can be scary, especially when

we don’t know what change will give us.

However, our image should evolve, just as we also evolve over time. If you feel less than happy with your image or you suspect that your image is holding you back, I would suggest that you start with one simple change: it could be updating your hair or make-up, improving your posture or investing in some new accessories.

Begin with just one change and you will be surprised at how easy it is to boost your appearance and confidence.

Do you have a memorable client?

A young dentist in the UK came to see me because he wanted to make the most of his chances of success in life and to overcome his shyness. His main concern was how to look good, how to look credible, because he was fairly short. After our consultation, we went on a shopping trip and he bought several new outfits. A few months later, he wrote to tell me that he had joined several sports clubs, he had started to meet new people and that he was hardly at home watching TV anymore. A year later, he told me that he had a steady girlfriend. And now, several years on, he is the owner of a successful dental practice, happily married and a proud dad of two young daughters.

He told me: “Huong, if it wasn’t for the confidence that I’d gained from having a new image, I would still be sitting at home most nights watching TV on my own.” His before and after story really means a lot to me: making a change in our image can really transform our confidence and impact.

What’s your secret to being confident and attractive in your life?

To develop my own style so that I feel comfortable and confident. To accept and work with what I’ve already got. To choose what suits me, dress for myself, but dress thoughtfully, so I always look appropriate for different occasions. To remind myself often that life is short and I should make the most of myself in many different ways.

Is there anything you’ve learned from your clients?

I’m fortunate to have witnessed some fascinating examples of image transformation in many of my clients, and how it has dramatically improved their confidence, lives and careers. There’s a common theme amongst them: they never think it’s too early, or, indeed, too late to make improvements in themselves. They invest time and effort to learn how to make the most of themselves and they put what they learned into practice.

Contact Nguyen at huong.nguyen@inspiredimage.co.uk or visit her website at Inspiredimage.co.uk.

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PHOTO ESSAY

HardCore in THAILAND Photos: Rick Valenzuela. More of Rick's photographs can be found at www.rickv.com Punk shows are the same everywhere: sweaty, dirty, loud and often obnoxious. In the early 2000s, Cambodia-based photographer Rick Valenzuela captured the intersection — and the rebellious attitude — of Thailand's punks, hardcore kids and skinheads in Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

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above: Japanese teacher by day, Sano fronts Low Fat at a weekend allages matinee punk show. Chilling House, Coco Walk, Bangkok.

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below: Chilling on an old construction rig at an outdoor punk bar at the Rincome intersection in Chiang Mai.

above: A punk show in the empty lot at Rincome intersection in Chiang Mai.

various shots: Chilling House, Coco Walk, Bangkok.

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a life less ordinary Leaving behind a modest budget and a quiet life at home, retired expats are tapping into this country's potential and learning what it means to live the good life in Vietnam. By Dana FilekGibson. Photos by Vinh Dao. Special thanks to Vietnam Vespa Adventures

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When Ern Marshall left his job in 1996, he had few expectations for the future. The former painter-decorator imagined retired life in his small Australian town to be quiet and relatively uneventful. There would, perhaps, be afternoons on the veranda, books to read, holidays, hobbies and plenty of time for other leisurely pursuits. This was, after all, the picture most people seemed to paint of life after work. But retirement, Marshall maintains, is something you can't know about until you've lived it.

As it turns out, the 65-year-old's vision was, in many ways, accurate: Marshall's days were free to fill with whatever activities he chose. However, while his modest military pension allowed him to make ends meet, Marshall found himself unable to spring for a spur-of-the-moment trip or get involved in too many activities, often for financial reasons. More and more, he began to feel like his retired life in Australia was not all it had cracked up to be.

“It was ... difficult,” he sighs. “It was very limited.”

Until, that is, Marshall arrived in Vietnam.

In 2000, he returned to the country for the first time since the late 1960s, when he was stationed in Vung Tau with the Australian military during the American War. Thirty years later, the difference was remarkable: scores of hotels dotted the coastline, paved streets bustled with motorbikes, buses and taxis, and a string of waterfront bars played music well into the night. The sleepy seaside Vung Tau that Marshall remembered was now a popular weekend getaway for working Saigonese and, as he made subsequent trips back to visit, he became more and more enamoured with the town.

“Each time I came I was more impressed with the country and the people,” Marshall recalls. In 2004, he finally decided to move to Vung Tau where, by his count, another 20 to 30 retired veterans live. Today, Marshall devotes his time to the Vung Tau Victims & Friends Children's Fund, an organisation which works to renovate schools around the former Australian task force area, and is able to stretch his dollars much further here than at home. Indeed, moving to Vietnam has allowed him not just the time but the means to pursue new things, including charity work.

“You've got to have an interest here rather than sitting around all day doing nothing,” Marshall explains. “You've got to have an interest to keep the mind working.”

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Settling Overseas For many Westerners, the picture of a happy retirement has long been bingo halls and golf courses, bridge games and book clubs. While this lifestyle suits many, not every retiree is ready to spend their days in a rocking chair on the veranda. In fact, as Western economies shrink and the cost of living in developed nations continues to soar, a growing number of retired and nearly-retired expats are setting their sights overseas, where more affordable cities and new adventures await.

For this reason, Southeast Asia boasts its fair share of retired foreign residents. Thanks to a warm climate and rich cultures, not to mention a host of nascent, still-developing economies, countries like Thailand, Malaysia and the Philippines provide a reasonably high standard of living at a fraction of Western costs. While Vietnam is not home to as many expat retirees as some of its neighbours, the country's appeal lies in its 'newness': it wasn't long ago that Vietnam was emerging as a tourist destination, let alone a place Western expats would consider living. Only in the last decade or so has the notion of retiring on the shores of Nha Trang or Vung Tau, Danang or Hoi An surfaced as a possibility.

Nowadays, however, the country has firmly established itself as one of the most affordable places to retire overseas. Hop online and you'll find several lists, published by news outlets like CNN, ABC News and the Huffington Post, that rank Vietnam among the best destinations for expat retirees. One such article, featured earlier this year by US News, estimated a monthly budget of around USD $650 for expat residents in Nha Trang.

For Marshall, this was a large part of the reason for his move. Though his military pension was enough to get by, it didn't allow for much beyond the essentials.

The picture of a happy retirement has long been bingo halls and golf courses, bridge games and book clubs. While this lifestyle suits many, not every retiree is ready to spend their days in a rocking chair on the veranda.

“While I could live in Australia, I could only just live,” Marshall says. “But over here the money goes a lot further. You can virtually do what you want, within reason.”

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While I could live in Australia, I could only just live, but over here the money goes a lot further. You can virtually do what you want, within reason.

- Ern Marshall, retired painter-decorator, Vung Tau

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An Unlikely Expat Technically speaking, Mary Lower has had two careers: first, as a schoolteacher and administrator in her native Canada, and again as part of the international school circuit, working as an administrator in Mexico, Egypt and Vietnam before retiring in 2012.

The 72-year-old expat's second career began almost as soon as her first ended – a year after leaving the elementary school in her hometown, where she had worked for over a decade, Lower visited a Queen's University, Ontario recruiting fair and found herself considering a job offer from the American School of Tampico, Mexico.

“I guess I was bored,” she says. Though Lower hadn't had much time to adjust to retired life, she missed the dynamic of a school. Things were quieter at home and, though she still managed to get out to the theatre or take a few holidays here and there, life after work left her feeling like there ought to be something more.

Lower's husband encouraged her to go.

“Take the job,” Lower remembers him say-

Challenges Still, for all the benefits a life in Vietnam can offer, there are a few drawbacks. Part of the country's appeal is the fact that it is still developing and, as such, offers a bit more adventure. But while other Southeast Asian countries have retirement or long-term visa programs – Malaysia, for instance, offers a 10-year visa and land ownership rights to those who apply – foreign residents in Vietnam are not eligible to apply for long-term visas without a work permit, forcing retired expats to navigate the tedious red tape of visa renewals on a regular basis. Thanks to her son's job, Lower has the necessary documentation to stay in the country without a work permit, however her visa still requires routine updates.

“It's an easy place to live if you can get the paperwork,” she says. “It would be great if Vietnam offered a retirement visa, as some other Asian countries do.”

Lower is not the first to echo this sentiment. Last year, Viet Nam News published the article 'Irrational policies spoil VN as retirement destination', in which it asked readers to share their thoughts on Vietnam as an option for retirement. Several respondents were retired expats already living in the country and, while each was quick to point to the culture, the people and the low cost of living as positive aspects of the country, the same negative appeared in each response: visas.

ing, “And I'll come be your house husband.”

She accepted, jetting off to Mexico to spend three years as a high school principal. It was the best of both worlds: at work, Lower cherished her daily interaction with students but, outside of school, she was free to travel and explore a new culture, something that hadn't seemed possible in her younger years, when kids and careers had kept both her and her husband rooted in Canada. When her contract ended in Tampico, Lower decided to continue seeing the world. After Mexico came a two-year stint in Egypt and, finally, Vietnam.

Within a few months of arriving in Saigon in 2003, Lower had already found a job with Saigon South International School, heading up the elementary school. A few months later, her son, who works in property management, also settled in the city. With her family close by, Lower adjusted quickly to life in Saigon. Though it hadn't been her original plan to retire here, the comfortable lifestyle available, combined with a job she enjoyed and the arrival of her grandson, now eight years old, made it easy for Lower to stick around.

“Vietnam has such an opportunity to attract foreign retirees,” wrote Scott Shepard, an Australian expat living in Hanoi. “But I'm afraid that these chances will be missed out on. Compared to its neighboring countries, the paperwork involved and obstacles that come because of that make it so difficult for people to consider moving here.”

Beyond the logistics of remaining incountry, Vietnam's medical facilities are also a concern for elderly expats. While more reliable in Ho Chi Minh City, local hospitals and health services remain below Western standards, meaning more serious conditions require a trip abroad, either to Bangkok or Singapore, for treatment.

Lower, who has osteoporosis and rheumatoid arthritis, gets around just fine but, in a city that is not built for people with mobility issues, there are still occasional challenges.

If, for instance, there's an event taking place on the third floor of a building withs no elevator, there's a chance she won't attend.

“I've had to pay a fair amount [for health insurance],” says Lower, “and there's a limit to what I can have taken care of in the city.”

Still in good health, Marshall, who lives a two-hour drive from Saigon's higher-quality medical facilities, echoes Lower's sentiment: health insurance is a must.

“You must be sure that you have good health cover,” he says. Though he will visit the local hospital in Vung Tau for minor

Now retired, the Canadian expat remains an active part of the city's international school community, volunteering and moonlighting from time to time for an American school accreditation agency, which allows her to travel around Asia. Lower also attends networking events, like CanCham's Hour of Power, and is a member of the International Ladies in Vietnam organisation, as well as an avid reader and traveler.

“I see retirement as an opportunity to take advantage of what the world has to offer,” she says. But perhaps her greatest pleasure is spending time with her grandson.

“I guess I'm really fortunate in that respect,” says Lower of her family ties in Vietnam. While many retired expats have to juggle their lives abroad with loved ones at home, Lower is able to see her family, who live in the same apartment complex, every day. Though stretching her pension was never an issue for Lower, being able to afford certain luxuries – fresh flowers, for instance, or regular leg massages – at a fraction of the cost back home is certainly not a bad deal.

aches and pains, Marshall maintains that “if anything major happened to me in the health department I'd feel more comfortable going back to Australia.”

An Unexpected Surprise While retirement has been an ongoing journey for both Lower and Marshall, one thing is certain: Vietnam was never part of the plan.

“Never crossed my mind,” Marshall says. “[I] never imagined that I would end up living in Vietnam.” Though it was a long road to get to Vung Tau – Marshall spent eight years as a retiree in Australia before making the move – the unimaginable has turned out to be a pleasant surprise. “I think it's added about 10 years to my life,” he says.

Lower, too, could not have foreseen her life on the other side of the world. Though she'd never planned to restart her teaching career or move abroad, four schools and three continents later, Lower has no regrets.

“Life is full of decisions to make all the time,” she explains. “There's the old phrase, 'one door closes, another one opens'.” Lower was simply lucky enough to have the door open to Vietnam. asialife asialife HCMC HCMC 25 25

Duel Lense

26 asialife HCMC

History Channel Asia’s Photo Face-Off pits amateur photographers from the region against Justin Mott, a professional photographer based in Vietnam, and each other. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Vinh Dao.

In the first episode of History Channel Asia’s Photo Face-Off, 36-year-old Hanoibased photographer Justin Mott accepts defeat to the first of his five opponents, 22-year-old Singaporean student and amateur photographer Tan Jia Jun. ”I didn’t think I was going to lose,” Mott, who has seven years experience in travel and portrait photography, recalls. “In my mind, I was cocky. I thought there’s no way I’m going to lose to any of these dudes; I shoot everything: wedding, commercial, editorial, food. And that dude beat me.”

The episode, which premiered in September, is 25 minutes of high-pressure photography in Singapore: a speed challenge in a restaurant, a theme challenge at Supertree Grove and an extreme challenge shot hanging from precarious highwires.

Mott, the show’s resident photographer, continues his way to the home countries of amateur photographers from Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam in the ensuing episodes, facing off in a similar set of challenges to a panel of judges.

“I’ve worked for major publications and most of my work stems from The New York Times and doing assignments on the fly,” he says. “It entails getting a call, flying into the country, getting something special, working under pressure.”

“So I thought, 'All right, cool, this is what the show is all about: quick challenges, don’t have a lot of time.' It’s an extreme version of an editorial nightmare assignment: get in, get access, get a creative shot, do it under pressure. The show is do it in five minutes, not five days. It was an exaggeration of my real version in real life.”

Although his contenders are considered amateur, three out of five are former winners of the annual Canon Photo Marathon Asia. They’re all competing against Mott for an all-expenses-paid photo assignment in New York City and a trip to the Canon Photoclinic in Japan.

“In photography, you’re always competing against yourself, unless you’re like a wire guy from the AP shooting against Reuters,” Mott says. “For me, I’m usually not going head-to-head against anyone else. I’m shooting for my editor. But this show made photography a sport.”

On the show, the pro and amateur are thrown into unpredictable situations,

whether it's photographing bull races in Indonesia or portraits of elephants in Thailand. They’re given anywhere from 10 to 40 minutes, depending on the challenge, to get their perfect shot.

“The show had a tone of playfulness and seeing how you react to this stuff,” Mott says.

“In Malaysia, we had to photograph these honey bees. They didn’t give us gloves. I got stung four times by bees and I lost that episode. It’s a macro shot, so you have to get close. I got stung five minutes into it.

And I just kept getting stuck, and I tried to compose myself and get a good shot. I couldn’t help but think, I’m 105 kilograms and the only thing that stopped me on that show was bees.”

The final episode – before Mott becomes the judge and amateurs face-off with each other – brings him back to Vietnam. He faces off with fashion retail owner Hoang Thi Lan Phuong in bobbing basket boats in Hoi An. “Whether I win or not in the episode,” he says, not wanting to reveal the results, “Vietnam is huge for me for my pride. I finally felt what the other contestants felt.

They were prideful. The guy in Thailand, for instance, wanted to win because he was Thai. Everyone felt that. So I went up against the Vietnamese woman, I felt proud and told myself I want to win.”

It’s a thrill to watch the pride and competitiveness of pro versus amateur in these wild challenges, but the show also teaches techniques and strategies – basic but helpful tips on how to adjust your ISO settings, for example – to all viewers.

Moreover, viewers learn about different camera types that are featured and suited to each challenge. To suit the highwire challenge in Singapore, for example, the photographers were given a Canon PowerShot X Mark II, which is good for shaky situations.

“People are interested in photography more than ever,” Mott says. “It’s more accessible. It’s not like before when we had to understand the science of it in a dark room.

It’s ‘Oh, go take a picture’ and ‘Don’t just take a boring picture, take a better picture’.”

“Everyone can take a beautiful picture and tell a story,” he adds. “It doesn’t matter if you’re an amateur or a pro. It’s the right moment, right time, a little bit of luck and you can take a beautiful image.”

"It’s an extreme version of an editorial nightmare assignment: get in, get access, get a creative shot, do it under pressure. The show is do it in five minutes, not five days."

Justin Mott, Hanoi-based photographer, contestant and judge on History Channel Asia's Photo Face-Off

Photo Face-Off does not broadcast in Vietnam, however episodes with subtitles can be viewed online at Historyasia.com/shows/photofaceoff.

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28 asialife HCMC

Ngo Minh Tu is on a one-man quest to bring trial biking to Vietnam. Michael Tatarski sits down with him to find out more about his passion. Photos by Vinh Dao.

F

irst off: no, that headline is not a typo.

Polite and soft-spoken, Ngo Minh Tu may not fit the profile of someone who engages in alternative or extreme sports, but get him near any sort of obstacle on his trial bike and he happily reels off stunt after impressive stunt.

Tu, Saigon's first trial biker, learned about this style of biking thanks to an American TV show called Pacific Blue, which he watched when he was younger. Intrigued, Tu bought a bike and learned tricks through YouTube clips.

“There are two types of trial biking,” he explains. “Street and competition. There are three kinds of bikes you can use in competition: 20-inch wheels, 24-inch and 26-inch. The 20- and 26-inch bikes are used in professional competitions, where there is a course and you are judged on time and technique. The 24-inch bikes are freestyle, which is based on style and the difficulty of your tricks.”

Trial bikes have an unorthodox setup, as many of them have no seat, while the rest have seats set so low that sitting is impossible. As a result, trial bike riders are always standing up on the pedals, using their legs to jump the bikes onto and over barriers and random objects. When we met in Phu My Hung for a photoshoot, Tu performed trackstands and jumped off of

Learn the story behind the photo here.

"While his students still see trial biking as more of a hobby, Tu takes the sport seriously.

His thin, muscular body is testament to this: he has broken his wrists nine times and his left shin features an impressive scar from a run-in with a pedal."

ramps while spinning the bike around in mid-air. Originally from Hanoi, Tu was part of the capital's small trial bike scene, which existed up until recently. These days, there's not much going on: while other local riders have quit the sport due to its cost, Tu left the wet northern winters and moved to Saigon about a year and a half ago, becoming the city’s first trial biker.

While Tu loves riding, he admits that it is not easy to get into trial biking. Gear is expensive, with a good bike costing up to USD $1,000. His personal bike costs USD $3,000 and includes high-end parts from a number of international companies. In such a dense city, it's no surprise that finding space to ride is a challenge as well. Tu used to ride on a course he had set up next to a factory in Binh Tan District, but the factory is expanding so he can no longer use the space.

“I usually ride along the road looking for a spot,” Tu says. “If I master that area I’ll move on and find a new one.”

Despite these challenges, Tu is working to build a trial biking community here. He is currently teaching five people, ranging from age 15 to 30, how to ride. When the group gets together it is easier for them to ask to use a large space somewhere. “I don’t charge my students, but they need to have their own bike,” Tu shares.

While his students still see trial biking

as more of a hobby, Tu takes the sport seriously. His thin, muscular body is testament to this, as he has broken his wrists nine times and his left shin features an impressive scar from a run-in with a pedal.

Having visited regional countries to take part in competitions, Tu is a one-man ambassador for trial biking in Vietnam. These Southeast Asian neighbors have much more developed communities.

“There are around 60 serious riders in Thailand, and other countries have a couple of teams,” Tu says. He rode in Thailand in September and got to know other riders from Singapore and South Korea. While Tu prefers street riding to competitive biking, he still used this opportunity to talk shop with more experienced cyclists. The Thailand team will also be visiting Saigon to ride with Tu later this year.

In the future, Tu hopes a trial biking community becomes a reality in Vietnam, along with a professional team or even competitions. While he is realistic about the difficulty of achieving these goals, his passion is infectious. At just 24 years old, Tu has plenty of time to build a trial bike scene here from the ground-up. In the meantime, he’ll continue turning the streets of Saigon into an improvised obstacle course.

asialife HCMC 29

Exploring Ho Chi Minh City

30 asialife HCMC

Historian Tim Doling’s newest book Exploring Ho Chi Minh City draws back the curtain on Saigon's 300-year history. Tour guide Walter Pearson highlights the best of this substantive guide for both first-time visitors and long-time expats. Photo by Vinh Dao.

Flip through the nearly 400 pages of Tim Doling's latest book and you will discover new places to explore and familiar locations revealed in great detail. On bookshelves now, Exploring Ho Chi Minh City weaves an intricate and fascinating portrait of Vietnam's fast-paced southern metropolis. From well-known sights such as the Reunification Palace, a monument with great historical importance to the last half of the 20th century, to the location of Secret Cellar B, once the clandestine site of the Patriotic Printing Support Association, Doling's book digs deep into the city's past. The latter, for instance, was built by resistance activists in the early 1950s to provide a safe place where they could print and distribute revolutionary material against the French colonialists.

Those more interested in the religious side of the city will find information on pagodas, churches, temples and assembly halls. Moreover, the author explains the difference between these various institutions, peeling apart the intricacies which separate dinh from den, chua from hoi quan. As someone who has given guided tours in the city for more than a decade, I am sad that my guests rarely understand the differences. It seems, churches aside, if they are colourful and have statues of deities or dragons somewhere, they are collectively either pagodas or temples. Knowing the difference between each of these spaces brings a greater understanding of the city and its origins.

Doling sets up the book with a very useful review of the area as well as a history of Vietnam, tracing the development of the small fishing village of Prey Nokor as it transforms into Sai Gon town

and, eventually, Ho Chi Minh City. For tourists or those who have just arrived in Vietnam, reading only the history section would leave you well set up to explore the city and even the rest of the country.

Part of Doling’s motivation for the book was to provide people with city tours that can be attempted on motorbike or on foot. There are 13 suggested tours covering the centre of the city, Cho Lon, Tan Dinh and Da Kao, Phu Nhuan, Gia Dinh, Cho Quan and District 10.

As Doling writes in his introduction, “Most visitors spend just one or … two days in Ho Chi Minh City, perhaps as a base to explore the Cu Chi Tunnels.”

With all the official emphasis on Saigon as an economic centre, its cultural significance is often overlooked. Doling’s tours give you a way to explore the city’s culture and history while experiencing its obvious economic pull at the same time.

I would recommend overseas residents of the city take some time on their days off to follow one of Doling’s tours and really get to know the town. For tourists, here is the ideal mechanism to escape District One, the Central Post Office and the War Remnants Museum.

Tours are laid out with step-by-step directions: where to turn, what landmarks to watch out for and so on. In clearly-defined breakouts, each place you visit is described – sometimes in more detail than you might need but, for those who are interested in these things, there are often enlightening snippets about statues, old French street names or quirks of history. Each tour comes with a map to add to the facility of the book, as well as plenty of photographs of old Saigon and a few obligatory colour plates.

However, Exploring Ho Chi Minh City

offers more than just short tours of the city centre. Doling also includes trips a little further away – Go Vap, District 12, Hoc Mon and Can Gio, to name a few.

With his usual fastidiousness, Doling’s section on Cu Chi includes information on both Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc tunnels.

Cu Chi has long annoyed me because most overseas tourists end up being dragged off to the highly-developed Ben Dinh tunnels, ignoring the equally-fascinating underground network next door.

Meanwhile the Ben Duoc installation is often left to only domestic Vietnamese visitors. Yet, in my view, Ben Duoc is infinitely more enjoyable and instructive.

The complex includes the usual tunnel recreations but also has an authentic reproduction of a mid-20th century village complete with all the various types of housing and implements. There is also a magnificent Martyrs Memorial with the names of tens of thousands of compatriots killed during the country's 30 years of war.

Doling trained as a medieval historian and has spent most of his career in the arts sector, running theatres and arts centres in northern Ireland, England and Hong Kong as well as undertaking cultural projects in Asia, Africa and Europe for UNESCO and the British Council. He came to Vietnam in 1989. His previous books are The Railways and Tramways of Viet Nam and guidebooks on North West and North East Viet Nam. Disclaimer: Although Doling acknowledges me as having contributed to the development of the book, I have to confess my contribution was minimal, if any at all, and my comments on the book are in no way influenced by his generous recognition.

asialife HCMC 31

League of

Extraordinary

Gentlemen

Watch a video from the event here

Ho Chi Minh City’s gentlefolk congregate on the streets to share their love of motorcycles and support for prostate cancer research in Vietnam's first-ever Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride.

By Ruben Luong. Photos courtesy of Phung Nguyen Tuan Anh. 32 asialife HCMC

F

or just one day each year, distinguished gentlemen and genteel ladyfolk all over the world press their cravats, polish their oxfords and don their most dapper tweed, gearing up astride twowheeled beauties to raise funds for prostate cancer research and awareness.

Together they kickstart the annual Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride (DGR) which, this year, took place on 28 September. It’s the first year in which the DGR has taken place in Vietnam, where 100 riders in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City collectively raised USD $4,003.

DGR had its beginnings two years ago with 2,500 riders in 64 cities, and participation quadrupled last year with 10,000 riders in 145 cities. This year, over 220 cities raised more than USD $1.5 million, well-surpassing DGR’s goal of USD $1 million.

Initially, the event was inspired by a photo of Mad Men’s Don Draper wearing his finest suit on a classic bike. The suave ad exec became DGR’s muse to dispell the negative stereotype of men on motorcycles.

But DGR has evolved into a curated assortment of hobbies and causes, combining sartorial interests with men’s health, charity and – particularly in Ho Chi Minh City – a love of classic, custom or vintage motorcycles.

“I want to introduce Vietnamese bikers and how we customise our motorcycles to everyone in the world,” says Phung Nguyen Tuan Anh, 27, who was a main organiser for the first ride in Ho Chi Minh City. “We want to show we are gentlemen and rebel a little bit at the same time.”

An assembly of young and older Vietnamese in suspenders, bowties and waistcoats – some with GoPros installed on their helmets – occupied the streets at 1pm, congregating on Cafe Racers, Flat Trackers, vintage Vespa scooters and other sweet rides for an afternoon exposition of Saigon cool.

Anh led the riders in a custom camo and maroon Yamaha TW200 from Galaxy Cinema on Nguyen Du Street to Notre Dame Cathedral and the Central Post Office, stopping at the Opera House downtown and riding into District 2, then looping back

to their starting point for one more round of riding that lasted until 4.30pm.

Four teams were shepherded by riders on special motorcycles. The first featured big bikes led by a Harley Davidson; the second a Triumph motorcycle retailing for USD $23,000 in Vietnam; the third a 1957 BMW motorcycle, the oldest of the bikes that day; and the last a vintage 1960 Honda CB450.

“I was intrigued by the custom bikes and how they put things together. Their ingenuity was unbelievable,” says Anton Sutovsky, 35, a designer and one of the only foreigners in Ho Chi Minh City to participate in the DGR.

"I want to introduce Vietnamese bikers and how we customise our motorcycles to everyone in the world. We want to show we are gentlemen and rebel a little bit at the same time."

Phung Nguyen Tuan Anh, one of the main organisers of the HCMC Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride

Curious passersby were also intrigued by the emerging wolf pack of vintage metal on the road and quickly took to taking photos of the riders and their motorcycles, despite dark skies looming overhead and a heavy rain that followed later that afternoon.

“Rain kind of defines if you really want to go somewhere,” says Sutovsky. “If you’re willing to ride in the rain for whatever cause, you’re really willing to do that, you know?”

Having lost several close friends in his life to cancer, Sutovsky was compelled to contribute to DGR and share his love of motorcycles come rain or shine. With donations from friends and family in his native Detroit, he raised USD $430.

For Anh, DGR wasn’t the first time he’s done charity on wheels. Last year, he and 40 others, including Vietnamese stuntman and actor Johnny Tri Nguyen, toured on 32 custom motorcycles to Phan Thiet and Dalat to distribute backpack giftsets for young students.

It’s their spirit of philanthrophy that will continue to represent the ideals of the DGR each year – finesse, manners and class.

But riders here also can’t resist admiring a beautiful custom motorcycle when they see one. They ultimately reflect the riders themselves, and fuel their desire to dress to impress.

“My friend called me because he wanted to borrow a suit,” Anh says. “He’s never worn a suit in Ho Chi Minh City because it’s so hot. He wore everything: a suit, shirt, gillet, red bowtie and a white-and-red-striped helmet.”

“I was impressed by the riders’ style,” Sutovsky says. “Their proportions are also beautiful. Vietnamese-size build is usually smaller than their bike, so if they sit on a bigger bike, they’re proportionally beautiful with it. I’m too tall and too fat on a bike, so my proportions aren’t as nice.”

“I remember I was riding next to a guy and he was on a Yamaha SR400. He had on this suede coat. It was really sharp and, coming from a design perspective, he just had such good posture and proportions,” he says. “I looked over, and I was just like, ‘God, he looks good on that bike.’” asialife HCMC 33

1 NIGHT

in

Bangkok

On Sukhumvit 11, one of Bangkok's most happening streets, Yvonne Liang narrows down the top-five mustvisit venues for your next night out in the Thai capital.

34 asialife HCMC

Oskar Bist ro 24 Sukhumvit 11

Back when the legendary Bed Supperclub was next door, Oskar Bistro was a favourite pre-party locale for club-crawlers. These days, it's still packed nightly with a crowd that knows how to have a good time. You can expect the DJ to set the mood with plenty of upbeat tunes, while Chef Julien, a connoisseur of Mediterranean cuisine with over nine years of experience in the Michelin-starred restaurants of the Pourcel brothers, oversees the menu. Ladies are in for a treat on Wednesday nights, when cocktails are buy one get one free. We recommend the eye-catching Lady Berry, made with raspberry vodka, vanilla vodka, raspberry and cream.

Charley Brow n’s F irehouse 3/26 Sukhumvit 11 Mexican Cant ina Just down the street is one of Bangkok's best 1/23 Sukhumvit 11

If you’re looking for authentic Mexican food, then this is the perfect spot. From nachos to fajitas, tacos to enchiladas, the menu at Charley Brown's will have you drooling, never mind the drinks: even if you don't eat here, the freshly-made sangria and famous margaritas – try the one with passion fruit – make the place well worth a visit. Stop in on Tuesdays, when the above-mentioned drinks are half-price all night long.

burger joints. Once you enter the restaurant you know exactly why it's called Firehouse: the place is designed to look like fire men might suddenly emerge from the kitchen to put on their gear and save lives. You will probably need some help getting up from your seat after gobbling down one of their hefty burgers. The bacon and blue cheese burger is a winner. Picky eaters can always go for the premium patties, made with imported Australian beef.

Lev els

Apot eka Bar & Restaurant

Just across the street from Oskar Bistro is Levels Club & Lounge, an enormous space decked out in glowing lights and colourful strobes, disco balls and chandeliers. There is no cover charge, meaning you'll find a diverse crowd here, with party people dressed to the nines, scantily-clad in-house dancers and a few of the Khaosan set as well.

DJs spin EDM and house music all night long and the venue holds regular events, including guest DJs and other musical performances, as well as drink specials and the occasional theme night. On Thursdays, ladies can enjoy three free drinks before midnight.

Opposite Levels you'll find Apoteka Bar & Restaurant, a themed bar and restaurant inspired by the interior of an old Victorian apothecary. Think medicine bottles and a drink list with cocktails that sound like a visit to the doctor – ‘Vaccination’, for instance. The decor features plenty of exposed brick and sturdy ironwork, laced with Victorian knick-knacks. Menu items include both Thai and Western cuisine, offering something for everyone.

35 Sukhumvit 11, 6th Floor

33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11

asialife HCMC 35

Calling a Bluff

With the opening of The Bluffs golf course, The Grand Ho Tram Strip has placed its bet to become Vietnam’s premier golf destination.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos courtesy of The Bluffs.

W

hen you stay at The Grand Ho Tram Strip, it's easy to forget you are still in Vietnam. A luxury bus picks you up from the Kumho Building on Le Duan and whisks you away, taking the high-speed TPHCM-Dau Giay expressway to the Vung Tau highway. The bus glides along silently: unlike everyone else on the road, these bus drivers have clearly been told not to drive like careening, honking madmen. As you sink back into your seat, you could just as easily be in North America or Europe – provided, of course, you don't look out the window.

But the reality doesn't truly hit until you get to Ho Tram. Upon arrival at The Grand, lush grounds give way to a huge hotel tower. The grand lobby leads into opulent hallways and past restaurants, bars, a nightclub and the casino, ultimately ending at the hotel wing. My spacious room overlooked two enormous pools and the shimmering East Sea, providing a view that lived up to the hotel’s name.

As much as I wanted to laze about next to the pool or lie in my plush bed all day, I was here for a reason: the grand opening of The Bluffs, Vietnam’s second Greg Norman-designed golf course. Located on a strip of land across the road from The 36 asialife HCMC

Grand, the course is a stunner. According to Norman, who spoke at a press conference in the clubhouse, its design largely follows the natural undulations of the area. His team consciously minimised the environmental impact of the course, a problem that plagues many golf course designers. The original plan even included a couple of holes right on the water, but plans for future expansion of The Grand resort forced a change.

Still, the final product is impressive, with views of the ocean to the east and forest stretching toward mountains in the west. Tough bunkers dot the course's perfectly-manicured fairways, while the greens are hewn to fit the contour of the land. Norman repeatedly said how proud he was of the course, noting that it is, among the 77 he has designed worldwide, one of the two most beautiful.

Michael Campbell, a Kiwi golfer who won the 2005 US Open, officially opened The Bluffs with a drive from the first tee.

Norman was supposed to play but a hand injury left him unable to swing. This shot kicked off a two-on-two competition that also featured Robert Rock, a British golfer, and two of Vietnam’s top female players, Tang Thi Nhung and Ngo Bao Nghi. The

Photo by Michael Tatarski

following morning featured a demonstration of trick golf shots by Henry Epstein, which resulted in your intrepid correspondent holding a deck of cards in his mouth while Epstein, blindfolded, took aim. Fortunately, the trick didn’t involve him actually following through on the swing.

This was followed by a putting demonstration from Norman before he flew back to Saigon via helicopter. While speaking to the press earlier that morning, he shared at length what went into the course, as well as his thoughts on golf’s outlook in Vietnam. When asked what the most challenging design factor was for the course, Norman said the wind presented the most difficulty. This is not surprising, as a steady, stiff breeze blows in from the East Sea. As a result, the course features wide fairways to give players some leeway.

Norman also stressed the need for golf development from the grassroots level.

The government can approve as many courses as it wants – there are around 75 potential courses in the works nationwide – but without players they are pointless.

He provided Sweden as an example of a country that went from no players to a

handful of world-class golfers in the span of a generation after one breakthrough star served as inspiration.

Ben Styles, general manager of The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip (no relation to the Saigon restaurant of the same name), expanded on the potential for local player development. He said a scholarship program or a golf school are likely on the horizon, and the team behind the course is looking into such possibilities. He also praised Duc Pham, who translated the remarks into Vietnamese for the local media contingent, as an example of just such grassroots work. Pham, who is a member of the Australian PGA, works with the Hanoi Golf Academy to train a new generation of young Vietnamese golfers.

Already, The Grand's exquisite luxury facilities have put the small town of Ho Tram on the tourist map, but with The Bluffs now open for business this stretch of the south Vietnamese coast is sure to attract players from around the world.

Still in its first month, the course has been nominated for three Asia Pacific Golf Awards. By the time the sport catches on among the Vietnamese, The Bluffs will provide local golfers with a world-class course right in their own backyard. asialife HCMC 37

8

CITY DRINKS

Thang Map 62B Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 // 09 06 21 18 31 Mon to Sat, 5pm – 11.30pm // Sun, 11.30am – 11.30pm

A laid-back spot for German beer and trafficwatching. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Vinh Dao. In an area of the city dominated by hostess bars, Thang Map offers a relaxed, open-air alternative with much better beer options than the usual Tiger or Heineken. Its two floors are compact but each has plenty of open space. Sitting upstairs, you can peer down at your fellow beer drinkers below, but a rather ferocious bull head mounted to the wall might scare off a few. If I had to use one word to describe the décor, though, it would be ‘wood’: the tables and chairs are wooden, and the trunk of a huge tree extends into one of the corners.

I must say, it’s nice to see one business that actually decided to keep a tree instead of just cutting them all down.

Throughout the locale, music is kept at a reasonable volume, allowing people to actually talk to one another, and ranges from Top 40 pop to fuzzy guitar blues. Tables and chairs are also placed on the sidewalk, allowing one to enjoy a brew while watching the bustling traffic.

Indeed, the big draw at Thang Map is beer, and there is plenty to choose from. The aforementioned regulars are available, with Tiger bottles, draft and Heineken going for VND 35,000 to VND 55,000.

You can also order a three-litre 38 asialife HCMC

tower of Tiger for VND 290,000.

If you’re like me, though, the German beer is what you’ll be going for. Half-litre options include lager, wheat beer and dark wheat beer for VND 128,000; while the Radeberger pilsner and Schoefferhofer grapefruit each come in onethird litre glasses for VND 80,000. Because I had to drive, I wasn’t able to try all of these, but I can report that the lager is light (but not too light) and flavourful, a welcome relief from the usual watery brews we all love to hate.

Thang Map also features an impressive food menu of German standards, such as grilled sausage, soft pretzels and schnitzel. An intriguing special item for those with an especially large appetite is the half-metre anaconda sausage (VND 240,000). There are two happy hour deals as well: all-you-can-drink Tiger draft from 6pm to 11.30pm for VND 145,000, and all-you-can-eat barbecue from 6pm to 9pm for VND 190,000.

With good beer, an appealing food menu and a relaxed setting, Thang Map provides a bar experience different from many of the usual spots in District 1.

Romeo & Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 // TheReverieSaigon.com 5pm – 12am // 08 38 236 688

Saigon's newest Italian restaurant presents the height of subterranean fine dining.

By Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Vinh Dao.

Saigon's restaurant scene is in the midst of a transformation.

In recent months, its international cuisine has taken on new life. Where Italian eateries, for instance, once stuck strictly to the standard pizza-and-pasta menu, today newer ventures are branching out to include a more nuanced picture of a much-loved cuisine, and giving a nod to the maturing tastes of Saigonese in the process.

This is certainly true at R&J, the underground restaurant of the newly-opened Reverie Saigon, a five-star hotel near the riverfront with sky-high rooms and a range of upscale dining spaces. Named after a certain pair of star-crossed

lovers, R&J resides beneath the hotel’s The Long Bar, and is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savour-the-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space's ambiance, food and topnotch service.

To start, dismantle the beautifully-arranged Polipo (VND 158,000), a salad of octopus, organic greens, salmon roe, string beans and zucchini drizzled with hazelnut dressing. Gathered into a cylindrical shape, the zucchini and finelysliced octopus act as a shell for the remaining ingredients.

When mixed, its contents form a simple salad with complex flavours, from the freshness of

the greens to the salty salmon roe and the slightly sweet octopus.

However, perhaps the most surprising dish on offer is R&J's risotto (VND 198,000), an Italian classic turned on its head with the help of strawberries and roasted quail. The risotto, made from Italian-imported carnaroli rice, fits perfectly between the sweetness of the berries and the savoury, slightly bitter taste of the quail.

Similarly appetising is the tagliata di manzo (VND 520,000), which combines a thick cut of high-grade USDA American ribeye, slow-grilled to perfection over a charcoal fire, with fresh parmesan, baby arugula, cherry

tomatoes and an aged balsamic reduction.

Be sure to save room for dessert: R&J's tiramisu (VND 128,000) is not to be missed.

Prepared at the table, freshlymade lady fingers are dipped in espresso and placed at the bottom of a cup. A light, airy cream of mascarpone cheese, sugar and egg yolk is then added from a handheld siphon, followed by a dash of cocoa powder to balance the flavours.

The result is a rich, melt-inyour-mouth dessert that's neither too heavy nor too filling.

Keep your eyes peeled over the coming months, as R&J will offer a series of five-course tasting menus (VND 888,000). asialife HCMC 39

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 // RachaRoom.com.vn 11.30am – 2.30pm, 5pm – midnight // 09 08 791 412

Thai-accented pan-Asian cuisine inspired by street dishes but prepared worthy of royalty. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Vinh Dao.

With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is Ho Chi Minh City’s latest restaurantcum-lounge fit for a king.

It’s certainly a refined quarter for enjoying Thai-accented panAsian, street-influenced dishes, which have been elevated into smart and chic plates by executive chef Chris Donnellan and are served late into the night.

First, mind the giant elephant in the room – painted colourfully on the wall, that is – and ease into a menu of 12 plentiful snack options (VND 60,000150,000), which are surprisingly elegant and intricately prepared.

Salt and pepper school 40 asialife HCMC

prawns with red nam jim and crispy taro (VND 95,000), for instance, are beautifully cooked in a light, crispy batter. It’s easy to eat the entire prawn, rather than peel off each cumbersome tail. Moreover, the red nam jim is lemony and zesty, a sauce worthy of drinking.

The coconut-marinated salmon in peanut and tamarind dressing (VND 125,000) is a perfect snack for its play on texture. Crunchy peanuts blend with creamy coconut and melt under smooth, thin slices of fresh salmon covered in dill and chopped cold cucumber.

For something of substance, there is a VND 160,000 daily lunch set that changes every

week. A recent menu included barbecue green curry chicken or fried snapper with smashed green papaya salad served with caramelised, wok-tossed eggplant and snake beans.

A reliable main is the US beef short rib entrée (VND 295,000), which comes swimming in a sweet massaman curry sauce accessorised in red chilli and accompanied with a side of pickled cucumber.

The Racha Room has the most amazing Thai dessert share plate (VND 290,000). Follow this order: first the coconut tapioca with mango puree, the steamed ginger pudding with poached apples, caramelised mango with chilli rock sugar, dark

chocolate tofu cheesecake with chilli cherry jelly and lastly the Thai red tea panna cotta with poached pear. Yes, please.

The Racha Room also offers 30 percent off wine glasses, signature cocktails and soft drinks from 6.30pm-8pm daily.

With a deal like that, it’s hard to resist one of the signature infusions, like the refreshing Concubine (St Germain Elderflower liqueur, lychees, lime juice and fresh cucumber).

More intriguing is the Hot and Stormy (Brugal Especiale dark rum, sugar cane juice, maple syrup, ginger beer and chilli) a signature cocktail suitable for deep ruminating on long days and long nights.

Quan Ga Nuong Anh Tuyet 71 Ngo Tat To, Binh Thanh District 3pm – 12am // 08 22 286 501

This busy hole-in-the-wall is all about grilled chicken. Even their butts.

By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Vinh Dao.

While eating at comfortable, high-end restaurants is nice every once in a while, I generally prefer dining at a local quan, where you can get piles of food for a pittance and soak up Saigon's street life. One such example is Quan Ga Nuong Anh Tuyet, a tiny eatery that specialises in, quite literally, nose-to-tail grilled chicken.

The bustling restaurant ticks all of the standard quan boxes when it comes to style: the interior is not much bigger than a closet, the floor is linoleum, the walls a faded white and the child-sized seating is entirely made of stainless steel.

Out front, a couple of tables allow diners a close-up of the

cramped, hectic road while a steady stream of smoke pours off the busy grill. Whatever you order, I guarantee you will leave smelling like the food you ate.

The barbecue is the focus of Anh Tuyet, as evidenced by the piles of meat stacked nearby.

While there are a few nonpoultry dishes on the compact menu, including grilled octopus, quail and okra, the chicken reigns supreme. Anh Tuyet's options begin with grilled chicken head and end with, yes, grilled butt. In between you can have grilled wings, heart, legs and thigh.

We decided to go with an order of canh ga (wings, VND

20,000 for two pieces), dui ga (thigh, VND 22,000 for two), two skewers of phao cau ga (butt, VND 8,000 per skewer) and a plate of dau bap (okra, VND 15,000). This was all served with a fantastic, slightly spicy chicken gizzard sauce and a loaf of bread (VND 3,000).

The wings and thighs were perfectly grilled, with crispy, slightly-charred skin and juicy meat. The butt was a new dish for me, and it was a delight.

The meat was a bit chewy, which went well with the crisp skin, and the flavour is excellent.

Anyone who likes grilled chicken would enjoy this, and it’s best to just ignore any con-

cerns you may have over what part of the body it comes from.

In my humble opinion it’s best to use as much of an animal as possible anyway. Oddly enough, for such a meat-centric place, the okra was phenomenal, with a wonderful marinade that added loads of flavour to the hearty helping of green.

Anh Tuyet is located in an extremely Vietnamese neighborhood, making it a perfect escape from the expat bubble.

It would also be a good place to take visiting friends, so you can brag about all the butt you’ve been eating. The cheap, delicious grilled dishes will surely have you coming back for more. asialife HCMC 41

Editors' Picks

VINH DAO

photo editor

Wacom Bamboo Connect Tablet.

Nokia 1020 camera grip with mini-tripod. A great combo for making videos on my smartphone. Sadly, I live up to my Asian roots by mainly filming food.

Cable accessory. Cables are the bane of my existence.

This nifty accessory came with my Lowepro DSLR bag.

BRETT DAVIS

editorial director

Akubra Stylemaster. I've had this hat for about 10 years.

It's similar to the one my grandfather wore. It had to be specially made to fit my rather over-sized head.

Sony Walkman and headphones. I refuse to get a smartphone, so I record interviews and listen to music on my trusty Walkman.

DANA FILEK-GIBSON managing editor

Moleskine, L'Usine. What kind of writer would I be if I didn't carry a notebook? Every now and again I splurge on a Moleskine.

Keychain, Mayhem Saigon.

The Atlantic. Nothing beats a good story. When I have a few minutes to kill between meetings or interviews, I open whatever magazine is buried in my bag that day.

42 asialife HCMC

The AsiaLIFE editorial team is rarely ever in the office, so instead we carry our essentials with us at all times. This month, take a peek at the objects that personify our editorial, and sartorial, tastes.

RUBEN LUONG style editor

Indonesian ikat shirt, Mayhem Saigon. Instead of using sunscreen, I prefer to shield myself daily in rich ikat patterns.

Digital Casio Illuminator, G-Lab Saigon. I have a lot of silver and gold jewellery. I’ve always wanted to add a touch of rose gold.

Jeju Marine Pure Water Facial Mist, THEFACESHOP. My little Fountain of Youth in a bottle.

KENDRA BERNARD art director

Zara Knit navy sweater. Although it's often searing on the streets, I’m bound to end up somewhere where the air-conditioning is set to near-Baltic temperatures.

Mentos. I have an obsessive relationship with the chewiness.

Tea Tree lotion, The Body Shop. That strange herbal scent - je l'adore.

MICHAEL TATARSKI contributing editor

Monopoly Deal, Parkson Hung Vuong. Nothing is better than waiting out a downpour while crushing your friends like a true oligarch. iPod Touch, fifth generation, circa 2009. It’s a dinosaur, but it still works like a dream and doesn’t offer the distractions of a camera.

Goorin Brothers flatcap, New Orleans. A cap to protect from the brutal sun. asialife HCMC 43

44 asialife HCMC

helen

holani

Director / Designer at Ava's Closet Helen Holani, the woman behind Ava’s Closet, is no stranger to fashion. For nearly 20 years, she has been involved in all facets of the industry – from retail to production management to design – not only in her native Australia, but also around the world.

“I always had a passion for fashion from a very young age,” Holani says. “My mother was an inspiration. She could make any pattern and sew any type of fabric, and I always wanted to learn how to do it myself.”

Now based in Saigon, Holani's foray into fashion began at home. As a teenager, she spent her high school days working in retail before jetting off to London, where she took a job as a sales consultant for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood and Chloe for a year. Upon her return to Australia, Holani was hooked. She completed a degree in Fashion Manufacturing and, shortly thereafter, launched a career as a production manager for several Australian surf and street labels.

But for Holani, the dream was always creating her own brand. Geisha – Holani's first original line – debuted in Australia in 2005. The budding designer wholesaled her items to shops around Australia, but it wasn't until nearly five years later, after she had made the move to Vietnam, that Geisha appeared in HCMC. These days, a lot has changed. Holani, now expecting her second child, is as passionate as ever about her brand, but the effects of a transnational move, marriage and motherhood have added a new dimension to her clothing line. Her seamless fusion of East and West has found new life in Ava's Closet, located on Nguyen Du opposite the Notre Dame Cathedral. In part thanks to her mixed heritage – her father is Australian, her mother Filipina – Holani has always gravitated toward the vibrant aesthetics of Southeast Asia, which complement the label's clean lines and sleek silhouettes.

As a result, Ava's Closet emphasises bold colours and locally-sourced natural fabrics, creating a fashion line that is equal parts practical and chic, down-toearth and sophisticated.

asialife HCMC 45

Joan

manalang

Creative Director / Culinarian

EMILY

nguyen

General Manager / Business Partner

46 asialife HCMC

LILI

dubois

English Teacher / Trainer

Dress-Up Girl Promotion Each month, the shop selects one successful, hardworking, fashion-forward woman who embodies the spirit of Ava's Closet. The lucky woman is then invited to the shop, where Holani herself will help the Dress-Up Girl choose an outfit to model for the shop's Facebook page. In the end, Dress-Up Girls walk away with a free, personalised outfit and a 15 percent VIP discount to be used with every visit to the shop. To view previous Dress-Up Girls or recommend a friend, head to the Ava's Closet Facebook page.

Ava's Closet Locations 53B Nguyen Du, D1 08 38 271 065 10am — 10pm 3A Station 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 10am — 10pm AvasCloset.com.au Facebook.com/avascloset53b

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Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

listings

hotel & travel

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

escape

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

NHA TRANG

Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito`s bar.

PHAN THIET Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Get Glowing Skin at Kara Salon & Spa

Reveal your skin’s natural radiance with a rejuvenating beauty boost from Kara Spa. Through the month of November, guests can enjoy any of Kara Spa’s luxurious facial treatments along with a complimentary natural botanical-based body scrub to moisturise and stimulate your entire complexion. Kara Salon & Spa is located on the 7th floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1. For more information or to make a reservation, please contact (0)8 38 234 999 or email kara.spa@caravellehotel. com.

Romantic Indulgence Getaway at InterContinental Danang Surprise and indulge your loved one at the iconic InterContinental Danang Sun Penin-

48 asialife HCMC

getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel.

sula Resort. Book a two-night stay or longer and enjoy our signature massage by HARNN Heritage Spa free of charge, as well as a romantic dinner at Citron, offering magnificent views of the entire resort. Other perks include complimentary in-room or buffet breakfast for two, a 20 percent spa discount and a welcome bodycare gift set. The Romantic Indulgence promotion runs until 20 December. For more information, please call (0)5 11 393 8888 or e-mail reservations@icdanang.com.

Emeraude Cruises Launches Hanoi to Halong Seaplane Service

Through 31 December, Hai Au Aviation and Emeraude Classic Cruises are offering a joint promotion to celebrate Halong Bay's first-ever seaplane service. Cutting travel to and from

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

CHUDU24 hotel booking service 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 info.en@chudu24.com www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008.

Hanoi down to 30 minutes, planes lift off at 10am from Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport and touch down on water at Tuan Chau Marina. At VND 11,697,000 per person, Emeraude’s seaplane package includes a one-way flight from Noi Bai to Halong, a private cabin for two, all meals, the cruise, onshore excursions and overland transportation back to Hanoi in a private vehicle. Guests can also return by plane for an additional charge. For more information on booking a seat and a berth, contact Mr Bao at sales@emeraude-cruises.com.

asialife HCMC 49

watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

listings

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza. 

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite

feast

CAFES

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3

Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

FRENCH

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Hot Dog Heaven at Saigon Saigon Bar

High above historic Lam Son Square, Saigon Saigon Bar is preparing a juicy treat for patrons this November. Perfectly cooked and creatively dressed, the hot dog is the star of the show from 22-28 November.

Reacquaint your taste buds with this timeless favourite, presented in four irresistible flavours: Onion Cheese, Mexican, German and Bacon Wrap. Priced at VND 298,000++, each hot dog served at the Caravelle’s rooftop bar comes with complimentary chili cheese fries.

The Caravelle Hotel is located at 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1. For more information, please contact (0)9 06 900 523 or email eam-fb@ caravellehotel.com.

American Thanksgiving Buffet Dinner at Hotel Equatorial

Celebrate the holidays with a generous Thanksgiving feast at Hotel Equatorial's Chit Chat at the Cafe. An impressive spread will feature home-cooked favourites such as smoked honey glazed ham, roasted turkey and grilled lobster, as well as a host of sweet treats from the dessert station. Dinner will be

50 asialife HCMC

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com

served from 6.30pm to 10.30pm on Thursday, 27 November and free-flow wine, Tiger beer and soft drinks are included in the VND 922,000 price tag. Kids under six years old eat for free and tickets are half-price for children from six to 12. Hotel Equatorial is located at 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5. For more information, please contact (0)8 38 397 777 or email info@ hcm.equatorial.com.

Peking Duck at Dynasty

Experience this divine delight every Monday, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday through the month of November at the New World's Dynasty restaurant. For both lunch and dinner, dig into traditional-style roast Peking Duck served with homemade sauces for VND 550,000 per duck or indulge in several classic twists, including succulent sesame and seaweed pancakes, prepared by Dynasty’s esteemed chefs. Lunch is served from 11.30am to 3pm and dinner from 6pm to 10pm. The New World Hotel is located at 76 Le Lai, D1. For more information, please contact (0)8 38 294 000 ext. 2208 or email saigon.dynasty@newworldhotels.com.

Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

JAPANESE

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Peacefull coffee shop for privacy and the luxury of being in your own space 200A Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan asialife HCMC 51

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

By Michael Kloster

imbibe Creating Infusions On a recent trip to California, I was awestruck by the wide selection of spirits available. In Saigon, we have access to the main spirits – gin, rum, vodka, whiskey and brandy – but it’s hard to find cocktails outside the basic flavour range. Luckily, there is a way to create more from less: infusions. At its most basic, an infusion is a liquor infused with another ingredient to create a new flavour.

The Basics Any spirit will take an infusion but the easiest to manipulate is vodka, since it is odorless. Every morning I’m tasked with making orange juice for my young son. Before I juice his orange, I use a vegetable peeler to remove the orange zest from the skin. I save the peels and later on drop them into vodka. Be careful not to add peels that have the white skin of the orange – this will make the infusion bitter and pithy. Essential oils ooze from the peels, creating a lovely fragrance, intense flavour and a groovy shade of light orange.

When I add sugar water to this infusion, it becomes something akin to Triple Sec, a building block for many famous cocktails.

Stepping Up Some Classics Every good cocktail list in a bar or restaurant should have a nice balance of classic cocktails and newly-inspired concoctions that reflect the bar and the local environment.

Creating classic cocktails can 52 asialife HCMC

be difficult here due to the lack of many ingredients. I was once required to create a 70s flashback cocktail, The Harvey Wall Banger. There are only three ingredients: vodka, orange juice and a vanilla-like liqueur from Italy called Galliano. Since Galliano normally isn’t available here, I needed to create a substitute.

In the end, I added a vanilla pod and a piece of star anise to a half-empty bottle of vodka. With a touch of sugar syrup, my upgraded Harvey Wall Banger, when mixed with fresh local orange juice, took on a new life.

Create Something Unique One of the many things I enjoy about living in Vietnam is the variety of tropical fruit and exotic spices. I’ve used many of them to create cocktails that represent where we live.

For example, my Vietnamese version of the Cosmopolitan (made with my orange vodka, a jackfruit-infused spirit and a drizzle of local lime juice), is a hit. Also, I was once gifted a few dozen over-ripe Australian Bing cherries. Pondering their fate, I remembered a bottle of Martell VSOP Cognac. I added the cherries to this half-full bottle and created my own cherry brandy. What will you try first?

Michael Kloster is a locallybased hospitality consultant with over 20 years food and beverage experience. He can be reached at luckydogvn@ gmail.com.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

KOREAN

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Grillbar 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 79 01 A Vietnamese restaurant with a focus on charcoal-grilled meat brings classic Vietnamese street food indoors to a modern, clean environment.

Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetizers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

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recipes

CARAMELISED PEACH PUDDING

INGREDIENTS

• 500g any type of old bread • 1 tbsp vanilla syrup • 2 small cans condensed milk • Drizzle of white wine • 2 eggs • 4 peaches, halved (canned • 1/2 cup sugar or fresh) • 1 tsp ground cinnamon

PREPARATION Cake Bread

Caramel and Toppings

• Dice bread into small cubes and put in a big bowl. Add beaten eggs and condensed milk.

• Grill fresh peaches until soft. For canned peaches, grill until marks appear.

• Let sliced bread absorb the liquid of eggs and condensed milk and allow to sit for five to 10 minutes.

• Preheat oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Add vanilla syrup and mix all ingredients together.

• Prepare a ceramic dish or cake mold. Pour mixture into container.

• Bake for 15-20 minutes or until mixture has risen.

• Over medium heat, add sugar, cinnamon powder and a drizzle of white wine to the sauce pan.

• Allow sugar to dilute and wait until liquid bubbles.

• When all bubbles are the same size, turn off heat.

Place the grilled peaches on top of the bread cake. Pour the caramelised sugar with cinnamon over all. Let cool and serve.

• Check mixture with toothpick, add another 5 minutes if not yet cooked.

Recipe provided by Joanie Manalang Culinarian Food Stylist Artist-chef.blogspot.com

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at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Local Eats

By Tristan Ngo

Tan Sanh Hoat I have been in Vietnam for 15 years and I have visited many cities throughout this awesome country. Despite the many wonderful places I have seen, I still consider Ho Chi Minh City my favourite, as it happens to be my current home. Why is it my favourite city, you ask?

Well, I love the people, the energy and the food. The city still surprises me.

And what surprises me, exactly? Just when I thought I had found two of the oldest continuous family-owned-andoperated restaurants in town (Restaurant Thien Nam, 1961, and Chuyen Ky Restaurant, 1948), I happened to stumble across Quan An Tan Sanh Hoat. I don’t have a clue as to the meaning of the restaurant’s name, but its old sign in District 3 caught my eye, and it was somehow inviting.

Tan Sanh Hoat is a small, modest Cantonese establishment run by a gentleman, Mr Phuc, and his wife. Now, this is what surprises me: Mr Phuc's father opened the restaurant 80 years ago in 1934, during the French colonialist era.

You can feel the energy from the blend of young and old employees. One of the servers told us she has been working there for over 20 years.

The inside is airy, noisy, crowded and clean, and the staff is friendly. It’s the perfect environment for a local eatery.

Don't expect tablecloths and fine china, but instead 54 asialife HCMC

homemade dim sum served like kimchi on mini plates upon arrival. You choose which ones you want because they charge you for each dim sum plate. Assorted items such as steamed buns, ha cao (steamed shrimp dumplings), xiu mai (pork dumplings) and chicken feet are not bad, but they are better known for their old-style noodle soups.

These include hu tieu (white flat noodles), mi (egg noodles), mi hoanh thanh (noodles with wontons), mi sui cao (noodles with prawn dumplings) and bun gao (stir-fried vermicelli).

The broth normally determines good noodle dishes and their broth is probably the best I have had since I’ve been in Vietnam. They have a steady crowd throughout the day, so try to come during off-peak hours. I’m not sure if they deliver, but I've seen many come and order takeaway.

In the era of fast, instant and processed food, it is nice and comforting to find a place that takes pride in hand-producing all their food – it makes the taste all the more memorable and delicious.

Quan An Tan Sanh Hoat 322 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 6am – 10.30pm Tristan Ngo is the Chef Patron and Owner of Skewers Restaurant and The Elbow Room.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2 Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro Anphu An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices.

Red Apron 22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021 Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive distributor of such fine brands as Taittinger Champagne.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D.2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

a breeze of serenity

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

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Hideaway Package:

6V 3 2 2. êm Đ

Bao gồm:

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Lưu trú 2 đêm tại Bungalow hướng vườn

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

Sử dụng miễn phí sân Tennis vào ban ngày

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

thứ 6 và thứ 7

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

Điểm tâm sáng hàng ngày tại nhà hàng Gecko Một bữa tối dành cho 2 người tại nhà hàng Gecko 60 phút trị liệu tại Aurora Spa Sử dụng miễn phí phòng Gym

Điều kiện: Thời gian lưu trú tối thiểu là 2 đêm Phụ thu 330,000VND/phòng/đêm nếu đặt phòng vào Khuyến mãi không áp dụng vào các ngày lễ Có giá trị đến hết ngày 30/10/2015 Giá trên bao gồm thuế và phí phục vụ

Để biết thêm chi tiết xin vui lòng liên hệ: Tel: (84)-(064) 3781 525 - Fax: (84)-(064) 3781 433 - Hotline: 091 3 781 524 Email: Reservation@hotramresort.com - Website: www.hotramresort.com

asialife HCMC 55

listings

By Phil Kelly

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

fitness Alcohol, Part I Some people think that if you drink you will get fat, end of story. That is not the case. It’s time to talk honestly about alcohol, understand its impact on training, dispel some myths, discuss pros and cons and, hopefully, define that mythical measure called ‘moderation,’ where you obtain maximum pleasure with minimum damage to your waistline.

For this month, some good news first: one or two glasses of red wine, usually with a meal, has been associated with reduced incidences of coronary heart disease. Studies also suggest that red wine inhibits the oxidation of LDL (bad) cholesterol, fights the aging process and can stall tumor and breast cancer cells.

The ingredient responsible for these benefits is called resveratrol. Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties, but before you get too excited and rush to the wine store, it is a little unclear if these findings were obtained through drinking wine or through the independent study of the effects that resveratrol has on the body.

Wines made from grapes in cold, humid climates (like Merlot) have higher concentrations of resveratrol than those from hot, dry climates. Pinot Noir has the highest levels of resveratrol, regardless of the climate. In addition, red wine is fairly low in carbs, with about two or three grams per 120ml glass.

These health-yielding properties aren’t the only good news.

56 asialife HCMC

sports & leisure

There are epidemiological studies that show moderate alcohol consumption does not adversely affect your weight.

In 1985, the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition studied the diets of 1,944 adults between the ages 18 and 74.

They found that an increase in alcohol (ethanol) alone did not result in weight gain that would normally occur if those calories were from carbs, fat or protein.

Now, a bit of perspective: this research looked at the effect of ethanol on an increase in body weight. So, while you may not be at risk of putting on weight through moderate drinking, it will certainly hinder your weight-loss goals in an indirect way. Alcohol is very calorific, at 7Kcal per gram. But then again, calories are not the whole story. For fat loss, it is important to also consider the body’s hormonal reaction to food, the toxic load and the effect of the fat-storing hormone, insulin.

To be continued … join me next month when I continue to explain how alcohol affects your fat loss, fitness and health goals. Find out what six to seven beers/wines can do to you, and learn how to enjoy a drink without causing too much damage to your waistline.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him though his website Philkelly.com or Facebook.com/ BodyExpertSystemVietnam.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English,

Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a

clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

SPECIAL 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL ITEMS

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company offers hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

XMAS COLLECTIONS November 15 & 16th

Wooden and steel * Furniture * Decorative Accessories * Tableware * Ceramic * Lighting 112 Xuan Thuy - Ward Thao Dien - District 2 - Ho Chi Minh City - tel +84 (0) 862 819 917 - shop.thaodien@decosy.asia - www.decosy.asia 58 asialife HCMC

listings

family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

CLOTHES

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 08 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 4 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage.

All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and

trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s longterm strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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By Gemma Mullen

Kid's Corner Sibling Rivalry So your little cherubs are trying to outshine one another and you have become more referee than parent. You've imagined the two of them playing nicely, sharing toys and loving each other’s company. Now all you hear from your older one is: “He’s too noisy, mummy” or the classic “That’s mine! Not yours!” Similarly, your youngest may be a little green that his big brother can stay up later, run faster and hold a full conversation with papa.

The first thing to understand is that children are different.

They’re at different ages and developmental stages, and have different personalities and temperaments. From babies to teenagers, there will be tantrums, squabbles and jealousy, but there are many techniques to encourage a loving relationship between your warring roses.

The place to start is you.

How do you react to certain situations? If you lose your cool when things don’t go to plan, then your little ones will likely do the same. Try to face problems calmly and be sure to praise your children when they do the same. Try being particularly effusive when talking about your own siblings and all the 'great times' you had with them. Be sure to drop little reminders about how nice it was to have a loving older brother to cheer you up when you were feeling sick or upset. Hopefully, the little scamps will take the hint.

It might sound like obvious advice, but be sure that you 60 asialife HCMC

don’t favour one child over another. Believe me, it happens.

To be honest, there will be times when you feel closer to one of your children than the other. You’ll probably feel bad but it is completely normal.

What’s important is that you don’t show it.

Make sure you involve all of your children in discussions. If an older child has a music lesson, be sure to get out musical toys for the younger ones. Do not compare your kids and never make god-awful statements like, “Why can’t you help out like your brother?”

If two children have a larger age gap, be aware that the older child has had you all to himself for years and may need some time to adjust.

Don’t ask the older sibling to become a de facto parent when it suits you. Giving one child power over the other is a classic recipe for arguments.

Usually you’re telling your older one not to be bossy; all of a sudden you’re asking him to “look after your little brother while I go to the shop”.

Stay neutral, set house rules that apply to all of your children, no matter their ages, and you will be on the right track towards a happy family.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for over 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old. Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 7827 Fax: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environ-

ment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your palce for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

CAMERAS

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Quality, Humanity, Humanism

General and tropical medicine

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

Crédit photo City Pass Guide - www.citypassguide.com

listings

NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Dr. Nicolas LAGÜE Graduated from university of medicine of Bordeaux Tropical medicine specialist 12 year-experience in Vietnam

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

By Elizabeth Png

HOME IMPROVEMENT Vacuum Care A vacuum cleaner is a lowmaintenance device, but keeping it in tip-top shape will help to prevent costly repairs or the need to buy a new one. When it comes to vacuums with bags upkeep is especially important, as a well-maintained vacuum will help to clean and filter dirt in your home better.

Here are some tips on how to get the most out of your bagged vacuums for an optimal cleaning experience with minimal maintenance and effort.

Don’t overload the bag A vacuum bag that is filled to capacity is one that is too full to clean efficiently. With air passing through the vacuum, having an obstruction in the form of a full bag means that the machine needs to work harder, or it may not clean as efficiently as before. This translates into decreased suction power and an increase in energy use.

However, what constitutes a full bag may vary from vacuum to vacuum. In some vacuums, a bag that is only one-third to half-full may already have its cleaning efficiency compromised.

A tell-tale sign that your vacuum bag may be too full is the presence of leftover debris or fuzz, even after the vacuum has passed over the area several times. When checking the bag, look for an indicator line on the bag to determine if it’s too full to use.

Also, always use the correct bag type and size for your vacuum. After emptying or 62 asialife HCMC

replacing the bag, ensure that it is properly secured in place with clips or holders.

Clean the brush roll Locate the brush roll on your vacuum and clean it regularly.

If it is full of hair, thread and debris, it will have to be cleaned thoroughly. A dirty brush roll stops removing hair from carpets, so use fingers or scissors to clean it out. It doesn’t need to be entirely spotless, but any hair or string wrapped around it should be removed.

Clean the filters Many of the latest vacuums have HEPA filters that catch the smallest microbes for healthier air in your environment. These filters need to be regularly cleaned or replaced. Foam or plastic filters in vacuums just require a rinse, although you should ensure that it is completely dry before putting them back in the vacuum. If it is made of paper or fabric, try to shake or pound out the debris.

If this is no longer possible, the filter needs to be replaced.

Clear the hoses Ensure your vacuum hoses are free of obstructions. A clogged hose results in reduced suction power. Try using a stick or bent coat hanger to gently dislodge larger clumps, but be careful not to puncture the hose while doing so.

Elizabeth Png is the brand and consumer communications director for Electrolux Vietnam. She can be contacted at elizabeth. png-reade@electrolux.com.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and care-

fully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE Staying On Finally, you have your bank account sorted and your work permit is complete. A residence card has arrived or, if not, will soon be on its way.

You have worked out how to transfer money back home and, more importantly, you have worked out not to give a taxi driver a VND 500,000 note instead of VND 20,000 (yes, we have all done it). But if you have made the decision to stay on, there may be a few things that have not yet crossed your mind.

Property If you have a property abroad on which you are paying a mortgage, you should tell the mortgage lender. It doesn’t matter if it is a variable rate, capped, interest-only or fixed. If the occupancy has changed and you have not been living there for over six months, they should be told.

The mortgage lender may simply carry on as before, but some will insist that the mortgage gets changed to a buy-to-let mortgage if you are renting it out. From there, you will be required to change your building and contents insurance to a specialist landlord’s policy.

Any life insurance policy connected to the borrowing will also need to be looked at closely, as being offshore for more than 12 months may alter the terms of the policy.

Look at an international life insurance policy, if possible, as they are not that much more expensive than a home-based policy.

Health insurance If you have arrived here on the health insurance from your credit card or other homebased policies you will need to change this as, at renewal of the policy, you will have been out of the country for more than six months at one time and it will be classed as null and void. If you do need to get a new policy, there are some great insurance companies within Vietnam and abroad that will give you immediate cover.

Money As a rule of thumb, I always tell clients that they should have a level of emergency cash that is equal to at least three to six months' salary.

Whatever job you had in your home country, you most likely had an employer that paid into a pension fund: use the same percentage deducted from your old salary. You didn’t miss it then, so why miss it now? Build up the pot for emergency funds until you feel comfortable, then start looking further into investing money into the future.

The most important thing about living here is to enjoy yourself. Try to see something every day that makes you chuckle and be sure to check what money you give over in shops and taxis.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

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Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

By Gary Woollacott

People matter Jealous Managers The other day we had a recruitment project that failed. We were tasked to find someone with very particular technical skills. After a long search, we settled on one gentleman. He had a telephone interview with a regional manager (our client in another country) and met with us in our offices, and it all went well. It seemed that the search was complete.

There was just one more step: to meet the local country manager. The candidate went to see her, but when he finished he called us and then withdrew his candidacy. He explained that she treated him as a salesman, rather than the senior sales manager he is.

He said she had made up her mind that he was not going to work there.

Naturally this disturbed us; we've seen these things before, but didn't expect the local manager to sabotage her own hire. And then the local manager influenced the regional manager, who, within a couple of days, decided the candidate wasn't any good after all.

So, what went wrong? Well, the local manager is clearly concerned about her job. She has been there for some time and, it would appear, is resisting anything that the regional manager can do to improve things.

Sales have been poor, hence the regional manager wanted to hire a strong and experienced sales manager. The status quo isn't acceptable and the local manager knows it – so she keeps coming up with 64 asialife HCMC

excuses for poor performance.

And, worryingly, the regional people believe her. At some stage I am going to have to explain this to our client, but that time hasn’t come. First, we have to complete the assignment. And meanwhile, the local manager has decided that a junior candidate (one she can control, of course) is the right hire.

Could we have realised what she was doing and somehow neutralised or averted that behaviour? I don't know, but I have to try to prevent this from happening again.

I encountered a similar situation some years ago when a regional office in Singapore overruled a local country manager. A few months later the local manager resigned and it was only then that they discovered the extent of the damage she had caused to the company with inappropriate hires and a lack of managerial skills.

She had been running the local subsidiary to suit herself, rather than for the benefit of the regional and head offices and, let's not forget, the shareholders – the actual owners.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott works for Horton International in Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas.

Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training,

online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Crown Worldwide Movers 2ndFl 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com MOVING!?

Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support ! services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam asialife HCMC 65

listings

fashion By Christina Yu

FASHION RULES To Be or Not To Be? Never have I felt as inadequate as when I moved to HCMC almost three years ago. Every girl seems to have a ‘BA’ here. And no, I don’t mean a Bachelor of Arts. I mean breast augmentation, better known as a boob job.

Whether in Korea, Taiwan or Brazil, it is so common these days that I consider it a fashion statement. Almost a year ago, I mentioned to a girlfriend that I was seriously considering getting a BA in Bangkok. She said many qualified doctors can do this in HCMC and it’s cheaper here.

On her recommendation, I went to see a local cosmetic centre that claimed to employ a famous Thai surgeon who has performed many successful operations for ladyboys. The owner of the centre came and met me. I felt like I was being lectured by a 50s-something Barbie Doll. Then came a PowerPoint presentation of clients – girls who went from an A- or AA-cup to a C-cup. The owner must have sensed my hesitation and recommended that I consult a Vietnamese doctor, the assistant of the infamous Thai doctor.

After an embarrassing 15 minutes of having my boobs fondled, squeezed and photographed, he recommended a 120cc silicone injection. I was given model silicone implants in round and oval shapes, and a super tight white T-shirt so that I could wear each set to test the effects.

The round ones are inserted through a small incision around 66 asialife HCMC

the nipples, and the oval ones are inserted through a small incision in the armpits. While the oval ones are considered more natural-looking, they are sometimes not as secure, because the insertion of silicone under the armpit is typically not as precise as insertion from the nipple.

In any case, the test result was hilarious. The round ones looked like two gigantic headlights. When I complained that they were too big, I was reassured that they’d look smaller after insertion, and that it would be better to make them bigger rather than smaller, as most girls who choose a smaller size tended to regret it. “Seriously?!” I said as I left the clinic, thinking that I would need to throw out my whole wardrobe to accommodate these boobs. This worried me.

Now, at every gala dinner with girls in their low-cut dresses and their BAs, I totally understand why they’re getting out of hand. I still feel a bit inadequate but I have also learned that, like everything else, BAs do not come with a lifetime guarantee. One needs to update after five years or so, and the maintenance can be costly. So, at this stage, I choose not to be fashionably large. Wonderbras it is.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipa-nima.com or visit Ipa-nima.com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Ginkgo Concept Store 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 0905 493 148 www.gingko-vietnam.com A unique shopping space that offers an original and creative mix of made-inVietnam clothing from local designers, artisans and brands that stay true to the company’s environmentally friendly principles.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and

trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

www.allfreesize.com

coming to Vietnam November 2014

asialife HCMC 67

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appchat 1Password

Get Sh*t Done!

Helps create strong, unique passwords for every site. Remembers them all for you and logs users in with a single tap. Can be used to store credit cards, identities and secure notes.

Everything in a user’s ‘vault’ is protected by a master password that only they know.

Serves as a task motivator, rather than a task manager. Users assign a task, set a timer, and most importantly, decide on a reward or punishment based on success or failure. Includes a smart break management system that tells users when they’ve earned the chance to browse Facebook again.

TripIt

Fragment

A travel organiser to store multiple itineraries while traveling. Store flights, car rental agreements, schedules and hotel bookings in a clear, concise planner. Sort by trip or dates of the trip and view a day-by-day display of travel stops arranged by time to guarantee smooth travels.

Transform any ordinary image into prismatic art pieces. Choose from a collage of inspired frames, shapes and patterns, then manipulate the image with a variety of adjustment and orientation tools. The image can then be shared on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

Sleepio

Pocket

Designed to help individuals overcome longterm sleep problems using a virtual sleep expert, The Prof. introduces a range of cognitive and behavioral techniques that balances users’ sleep schedules and lifestyles. Designed by world-renowned sleep expert Professor Colin Espie.

An offline reader app that makes it easier to read longform articles. Updated with a website-oriented design that includes a carousel, which makes finding older articles easier. Also has a regular newsletter to update users on decent reads on the app.

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THANK

YOU I want to personally thank all of the sponsors and workers who helped make the 7th Annual Arts for Mobility concert and art exhibition a success. With the proceeds, we will give the gift of mobility to deserving children and adults, in some cases giving them the opportunity to go to school or seek employment and inclusion in their community.

Roger Ferrell, President, Kids First Enterprise

The Beat – with Q4 radio

Ex Hex

Hozier

By Samia El-Balawi Hozier is a soulful blues and folk musician whose selftitled debut album must be added to your collection with haste. Stimulating is just one word that springs to mind when describing Hozier’s often-haunting melodies, which add a taste of gospel to the Irish musician's alreadybluesy sound. Pairing strong vocals with choral contributions, Hozier carries a sense of softness in his work but still manages to truly impact his listeners’ ears.

Born Andrew Hozier-Byrne in County Wicklow, Ireland on 17 March 1990, Hozier’s musical influences are rooted in African-American music and a variety of blues-infused styles. His father is, in fact, a blues musician in Dublin whose collection of Chicago blues records became a great inspiration to his son, who went on to study music at Trinity College. Hozier, however, decided to take a different path and pursue his own musical interests by withdrawing from his studies to concentrate on his own work.

Two EPs came out ahead of Hozier’s debut album, namely Take Me To Church in 2013 and From Eden in early 2014.

Many of the songs from these extended plays appear on the 13-track record, some of which have been re-worked, such as 'Angel of Death' and

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soundfix soundfix Rips

'The Codeine Scene' with its crescendo feel and added guitar layers. 'From Eden' is another widely-aired track, its uplifting melody cleverly combined with dark lyrics, while 'Cherry Wine', which was first heard in 2013, remains untouched and appears as the original, recorded on the rooftop of a hotel.

'To Be Alone' is a chilling example of Hozier’s ability to combine his voice and guitar in a way that delivers an impressive amount of emotion while, in contrast, 'Jackie and Wilson' characterises Hozier’s uplifting melodic side. With old-style gospelinfluenced pieces, like 'Work Song' and engagingly simple works such as 'Someone New', Hozier’s album will have you hooked from beginning to end.

As for the surreal artworks upon his album and EPs, they are the creation of Hozier’s mother, Rose Hozier-Byrne and seem to perfectly depict the entrance into a collection of songs that express a diverse range of emotions, styles and subjects.

»» Hozier.com »» Facebook.com/hoziermusic »» Soundcloud.com/hozier

Some garage rock makes you coolly bob your head, perhaps casually tap your foot. Then there’s the kind that you can’t help but throw yourself into completely — jump up and down, jut out your elbows and dive into the middle of the mosh pit. Ex Hex makes just that type of rock, infused with punk spirit and irresistible pop hooks.

The Washington, DC-based band's debut full-length Rips doesn’t slack for a second, maintaining an electrifying current throughout all 12 tracks. The album has none of the hesitation often found on a first effort, as the trio of members play with the confidence of seasoned musicians. After all, Ex Hex may have only formed recently, but vocalist/ guitarist Mary Timony, bassist Laura Harris and drummer Betsy Wright are music veterans who have performed in bands since the 90s. Their sound is part Ramones, part Joan Jett — and makes for some of today’s most enjoyable rock.

Sinkane Mean Love

“Where, if I’m to settle down, will I finally settle? Will I?” sings Ahmed Gallab, on 'Omdurman', the closing song of his second album as Sinkane. These are vital questions for Gallab, who has lived in Sudan, the United Kingdom and the United States, where he currently resides in Brooklyn.

But though Gallab — who has contributed to critical indie darlings Yeasayer and Caribou — may grapple with the woes of nomadism, it’s his lack of being settled that makes his music memorable.

Sinkane’s label, DFA Records, refers to the new album Mean Love as soul music.

But Sinkane’s sound is best labeled as soul in the sense that it is soulful, incorporating influences from around the globe to create something with universal meaning.

Multi-instrumentalist Gallab mixes elements of Afropop, 70s funk, 60s Motown, reggae, shoegaze, country and more with his velveteen falsetto vocals. He may not know where he belongs, but he seems completely at home in his music.

album review

endorsed

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

The Knick

By Michael Tatarski

Zola Jesus

Sondre Lerche

Taiga

Please

For her fifth album as Zola Jesus, Nika Roza Danilova found inspiration in Mariah Carey, Whitney Houston and Barbra Streisand.

These influences aren’t unusual among budding pop stars, but coming from Danilova—whose previous albums can be characterised as goth electronic—this marks a curious change in direction. The result is Taiga, a collection of power ballads and R&B-tinged pop tunes that unleash Danilova’s opera-trained voice. She may have the vocal chops to compare with some of the greatest pop divas, but she sings with a dramatic edge more evocative of Kate Bush than Mariah. Still, Taiga’s mood is less brooding than Danilova’s previous work, with swelling rather than scratchy synths. She’s stepped into the spotlight, but it's unfortunate that her new work falls flat compared to her best work produced in the darkness. Still, Danilova is now poised to reach a new audience looking for accessibility over artistry — and at least she delivers some combination of the two.

'Lucifer', on Sondre Lerche's Please, must be the most upbeat song about the devil ever written. It's typical of Lerche, who has always had a coy way of pairing bittersweet lyrics with entirely sweet melodies. The Norwegian singer-songwriter released his first album as a teenager, nearly 15 years ago, yet remains baby-faced and boyish-voiced, singing indie pop songs in English with a faint Scandinavian lilt. But time has passed.

Lerche is now 32 and Please, his seventh studio album, was recorded in the wake of his recent divorce. He channels the heartbreak and confusion of his marriage's unraveling into some of his most compelling work yet.

The album is as open and introspective as Lerche’s early work, yet more eclectic in song structure, continuing the adventurous, post-modern streak that marked his last two albums.

Although his music reveals the scars of experience, Lerche never lacks charm.

Television has changed over the past few years, with small-screen shows tapping into the star power, scope and vision normally reserved for Hollywood. Landmark series – such as AMC’s Breaking Bad, an outright cultural phenomenon, and HBO’s True Detective, which boasted A-list stars and a single director throughout its first season – illustrate how TV is no longer just simple sitcoms and procedural dramas.

The Knick, an original series from Cinemax, continues in this vein. With Clive Owen as its lead character and critical darling Steven Soderbergh (Traffic, Contagion) behind the camera, the show brings serious firepower to the small screen. Set in New York City in 1900, the plot centres on a fictionalised version of the Knickerbocker Hospital, or The Knick.

Owen stars as Dr John Thackery, a brilliant, drugaddled surgeon who takes over as head of the hospital’s operating theatre in the first episode. Thackery (or Thack for short) has a penchant for Chinatown opium dens, but his genius is undeniable as he discovers a number of surgical breakthroughs throughout the show. Owen brings a reserved intensity to the role, choosing to show his character’s nuances instead of chewing the scenery.

The rest of the cast is lesser-known but equally strong, particularly Andre Holland as Dr Algernon Edwards, an exquisitely-trained new assistant surgeon with one flaw: he is black. Holland’s character allows The Knick to delve into the brutally-

open racism that permeated turn-of-the-century America, even in the supposedly progressive north. A number of immigrant groups clash in the series, especially in the powerhouse seventh episode, Get the Rope, the climax of which depicts a harrowing race riot.

Race is just one of the social issues touched on in The Knick, along with classism, inequality, abortion, corruption and anti-Semitism. The driving force of the show may be Thack and his operations, but there is far more to it than that.

It must be said that the surgical scenes are stomachturning in their realism.

Incredible amounts of blood are vacuumed out of body cavities and spilled onto floors and internal organs are revealed in all their gore.

Fortunately, these scenes are kept to a minimum, with one per episode, at most.

Besides the strong acting and thoughtful storylines, the other big draw of The Knick is the way it looks. The production value is first-rate, with the hospital rendered in spooky light flares. Soderbergh’s direction is clean and efficient. He allows himself a few virtuosic tracking shots along the streets of Manhattan, but otherwise his camera movements are kept to what is necessary.

With a solid cast, including a number of excellent minor characters, and impressively realised setting, The Knick is a strong Emmy contender for best show of the year. A second season has already been approved for this excellent series.

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boxoffice

Fury

Rise (Huong Ga)

Big Hero 6

Hunger Games: Mockingjay 1

April, 1945. As the Allies make their final push in the European Theatre, a battle-hardened army sergeant named Wardaddy (Brad Pitt) commands a Sherman tank and its five-man crew on a deadly mission behind enemy lines. Outnumbered and outgunned, Wardaddy and his men face overwhelming odds in their heroic attempts to strike at the heart of Nazi Germany.

The film also stars Shia LaBoeuf, Logan Lerman, Michael Pena, Jon Bernthal, Jason Isaacs and Scott Eastwood.

Based on the popular novel Phien Ban by Nguyen Dinh Tu, Rise is the true story of Dieu (Truong Ngoc Anh), one of Vietnam's most notorious female gangsters. Born into difficult circumstances, the naïve Dieu endures unimaginable hardship, violence and loss from a young age. Haunted by her tragic past but determined to overcome it, Dieu climbs to the top of Haiphong's male-dominated criminal underworld, earning respect from those she once feared and taking fate into her own hands. The film also stars Vietnamese actors Kim Ly, Chi Bao, Ngoc Hieu and Harry Lu. Viewers must be over the age of 16.

From Walt Disney Animation Studios, the team behind Frozen and Wreck-It Ralph, comes Big Hero 6, an action-packed comedy-adventure about the special bond that develops between Baymax (Scott Adsit), a plus-sized inflatable robot, and prodigy Hiro Hamada (Ryan Potter). When a devastating event befalls the city of San Fransokyo and catapults Hiro into the midst of danger, he turns to Baymax and his close friends adrenaline junkie Go Go Tomago (Jamie Chung), neatnik Wasabi (Damon Wayans, Jr), chemistry whiz Honey Lemon (Genesis Rodriguez) and fanboy Fred (TJ Miller).

Determined to uncover the mystery, Hiro transforms his friends into a band of high-tech heroes called Big Hero 6.

Picking up where the previous film left off, The Hunger Games' third installment finds Katniss Everdeen (Jennifer Lawrence) in District 13 after sabotaging the games forever. Under the leadership of President Coin (Julianne Moore) and the advice of her trusted friends, Katniss spreads her wings as she fights to save Peeta (Josh Hutcherson) and a nation moved by her courage. The film sees Liam Hemsworth (Gale Hawthorne), Elizabeth Banks (Effie Trinket) and Jeffrey Wright (Beetee) reprising their roles alongside Donald Sutherland (President Snow) and many others, as well as introducing newcomer Natalie Dormer (Cressida).

Opening Dates Cinemas Movies

Cinemas Movies

CGV Fury (31 October) cgv.vn Huong Ga – Vietnamese, without subtitles (31 October)

Big Hero 6 (not yet listed)

The Hunger Games: Mockingjay 1 (not yet listed)

Galaxy galaxycine.vn

Fury (31 October – 13 November) Huong Ga (31 October – 13 November) Big Hero 6 (7 November – 27 November) The Hunger Games: Mockingjay 1 (21 November – 4 December)

BHD Star Cinema Huong Ga – with English subtitles (31 October) bhdstar.vn Big Hero 6 – 2D & 3D (7 November)

The Hunger Games: Mockingjay 1 (21 November) The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

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bookshelf Being Mortal

This Changes Everything

Atul Gawande Metropolitan Books

Naomi Klein Simon & Schuster

In Being Mortal, Atual Gawande, a surgeon at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston and a staff writer for The New Yorker, argues that doctors have been wrong about their job in medicine. Using the American medical system as an example, Gawande believes that the role of doctors is not to ensure health and survival, but well-being, or the reasons someone, especially an old person, wants to be alive.

Through interviews with doctors, patients and health care workers, Gawande provides thought-provoking examples of this concept. He also provides the death of his father as a case study of how vital, and often neglected, well-being is.

Gawande argues that doctors don’t listen to what patients really want, instead they are trained to attack problems and cure things. His ultimate point is that mortality must be faced by everyone in a thoughtful, compassionate way and this entails different methods for different people.

From Naomi Klein, author of bestseller The Shock Doctrine: The Rise of Disaster Capitalism, comes a thought-provoking book about the ongoing struggle between capitalism and the climate. Klein, a contributing editor for Harper’s and reporter for Rolling Stone, argues that the time has come to completely restructure the global, political and economic system in order to face today's climate crisis. Her carefully-built thesis centres on reducing greenhouse emissions as the best way to tackle a number of major global problems. Klein critiques members of every side of the climate debate, from climate change deniers to mainstream environmentalists, while showing that our current system cannot solve the problem. She provides a hopeful note as well, writing that the changes we must make in our relationship with nature should be seen as a chance to shift priorities and heal wounds. Klein illustrates the positive impact of such changes by highlighting groups that are already working to create regeneration-based communities.

The Paying Guests

The Short and Tragic Life of Robert Peace

Riverhead

Jeff Hobbs Scribner

Sarah Waters

This critically-acclaimed New York Times bestseller proves that Sarah Waters is one of today’s finest writers of historical fiction. Set in London in 1922, the novel’s events take place in the aftermath of World War I. Those affected by the conflict are unhappy and restless but all is quiet at the Camberwell villa in South London, where no men remain.

The only occupants are Mrs Wray, a poor widow, and her daughter, Frances. However things change when the women decide to take in two lodgers, Lilian and Leonard Barber, a young, modern couple. Their arrival upends the routines of the house and alters the lives of everyone involved, as Waters weaves an engrossing tale of love, crime and a transforming world.

In this biography, Jeff Hobbs tells the story of Robert Peace, his close friend and roommate at Yale University. Peace defied the odds by attending an Ivy League school after growing up on the rough streets of Newark, New Jersey in the 1980s. His father was in jail and his mother earned less than USD $15,000 a year, but Peace’s brilliance shone through and he went on to study molecular biochemistry and biophysics.

However, this did not mean life became easy for Peace, and the author provides a clear portrait of the problems his friend continued to face, from being raised by a poor, single mother to trying to find a role model in a community where it is more likely for a man to end up in prison than college. Sadly, Peace’s life ended in violence, despite all that he achieved.

Hobbs’ heartfelt book may be set in America, but it touches on themes of race, class, education, family and friendship that transcend any one location.

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odd one out...

Of course, the naysayers will tell you that not all of this information is 'relevant' or 'professional' or 'accurate'. It's easy to judge when things are taken out of context.

When they print you up a business card, it's just the essentials.

Name, company, telephone, email. Sometimes people get fancy and throw in a Twitter handle or an Instagram, but most of what I request on my own name cards – that's what they call them here – doesn't get printed. I guess it's for the best.

However if I were in charge of placing the orders, there would be a lot more text involved; I'm in the writing business, after all. Probably I'd go with something edgy, like Jokerman or Curlz MT. Whatever it is, there would be none of that Helvetica crap – what am I, a hipster? – and I'd have the final say on my job title. The cards would read like so: Dana Filek-Gibson Managing Editor — Local Expert — Professor of Traffic Safety — Customer Service Guru — Tango Juice Regular — Noted Viewer of CSI: Miami Reruns Telephone | Email | The End

Sure, you might think, sixpoint font is a little small, but consider this: we've made all these technological advancements – people are watching TV on their contact lenses, for Chrissakes! – and you're telling me you can't take a picture and zoom in? No one's willing to spring for some larger business cards? We've got cell phones the size of dictionaries but heaven forbid we carry an A5 sheet of paper around in our wallets!

What a mess.

Of course, the naysayers will tell you that not all of this information is ‘relevant’ or ‘profes76 asialife HCMC

Dana Filek-Gibson gets a new set of business cards and a healthy dose of self-importance.

sional’ or ‘accurate’. It's easy to judge when things are taken out of context. But if people understood the scope of my expertise when it came to things like road safety, Vietnamese cuisine, swearing, subway construction and the one-liners of Lieutenant Horatio Caine, they'd change their tune.

You see, when foreigners first get here, we're hopeless.

It takes some time to learn the ropes of this city. But once an expat has passed the two-year mark, someone ought to start consulting us on these kinds of everyday questions.

Case in point: I've driven past Le Loi at least six times since they put up those blue barriers. Do you really think I don't know what's going on back there? A bunch of men in hard hats are tunneling underground. How much more can there be? Step 1: dig a large hole. Step 2: insert subway. And they say it's going to take til 2020! Perhaps instead of saying things like “Ma'am, pedestrians aren't allowed here,” someone could offer up a thank you. I mean, with my knowledge of dirt and shovels, put me on the job and we'd be done by next week!

The same goes for beer. Vietnamese drinking culture might have its own set of rules – I'll give you that – but try telling the folks at the bia hoi about craft beer and everyone gets uptight. All I want to offer are simple suggestions to improve the product, but are there comment cards? No. Give me a break: it's like no one in this country has ever tasted a Bud

Light Lime!

If I've learned one thing in Vietnam, it's that nothing is as it seems. Someone might tell you they have a PhD in urban planning or a Masters in Hospitality, but those are just pieces of paper backed by years of intense research and study.

Me? I've been sleeping in hotels since I was a child. In fact, if I close my eyes and calm my inner monologue, I can vaguely recall the all-pink interior of Honolulu's Royal Hawaiian in utero. So when you tell me I can't go sock-skating around the lobby of the Park Hyatt because it's “against hotel policy”, need I remind you that the customer is always right?

What this all comes down to is confidence. Read what you will from the self-help department – Dr Phil, Oprah, Snookie – everyone says the same thing: fake it til you make it. Nobody becomes an expert on account of their studies or accomplishments: all it takes is a bit of authority and, perhaps, a microphone. Because I'm still on the hunt for a good-quality headset – the kind they use in Jazzercise or on those TEDx videos – I have to make do with announcing my expertise on paper. So next time a waiter tries to tell me the restaurant is closed or a xe om driver insists that a street is one-way, I don't have to spend time delving into my lengthy history as a customer and/or backseat driver.

Instead, I can reach into my bag, produce that sturdy A5 card and let them know, in painstaking detail, exactly who I am.

L e tt e r s f r o m

Hanoi

In the midst of Hanoi’s hot and humid summer, Katie Jacobs soaks up the cool mountain air at the first-ever Sapa Art Festival.

After a last-minute decision to participate in the 10km leg of the Sapa Mountain Marathon, my husband and I braved the rocky night-train north for some clean air, a little exercise and, as it turns out, an introduction to the art of northwestern Vietnam.

The run was steep, muddy and gruelling – but far more interesting was the launch of the first Sapa Art Festival.

Hosted at the Sapa Tourist Centre, the festival opened with a flurry of speeches by local dignitaries. In spite of a thick fog and steady drizzle, visitors were greeted by an open fire.

Inside the centre, French doors were pushed open to let visitors through. The visitors paused every so often to appreciate the original paintings and photographs by the region’s most talented artists.

As I warmed myself by the fire, one painting in particular caught my eye. It was an impressionist scene of rolling

greens, blues, purples and blacks. Up close, the painting resembled a series of sharp brush strokes and scrapings, but from afar it morphed into a soft swirl of mountains and rice paddies. The painting’s artist, Pham Phan Hoang Linh, perfectly captured the intricacy and changeability of the mountain terrain. The highlight of the exhibition was a bright room filled with student paintings depicting everyday scenes from the area, such as a woman soaking in an herbal bath, a young boy riding his buffalo and a pot-bellied pig trotting through a farm.

These small snippets of daily life in the northwest are curated

by Bridget Marr, the founder of the art festival and artist-inresidence of Sapa Rooms. More than a hotel, Sapa Rooms is a social enterprise that seeks to improve the lives of minority women and children in the region. The new artist-inresidence program, known as

Art for Community, provides room and board in exchange for art projects that contribute towards these initiatives.

“The program supports the belief that the arts are an integral part of a healthy culture, and that communitybased arts provide significant value both to communities and artists,” said Pete Wilkes, founder of Sapa Rooms.

I caught up with Marr the following morning in her topfloor studio at the Sapa Rooms guesthouse. The rain had cleared and the open windows by her desk afforded views across Sapa’s rooftops and down a steep mountain valley.

Originally from the United Kingdom, Marr spent two years in Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An before beginning her fourmonth sojourn in Sapa.

“For me it was always about helping Sapa Rooms achieve their goals rather than producing my own work,” said Marr, who still found time

to produce soft watercolour paintings depicting the hills and villages of the area.

With the sun shining, I later took to the streets around town to visit a few artists' studios and galleries. As part of the festival, local artists opened their doors and invited guests to take a look inside. From amateur to professional, oil to watercolour, the rooms were filled with the life and colour of the region. But for me, nothing came close to the beautiful colours and techniques used

by Pham Phan Hoang Linh.

So with only a few hours of cool mountain air remaining, I returned to the Sapa Tourist Centre ready to buy. As Linh carefully removed her painting from the frame, we chatted briefly in broken Vietnamese and English. “I like painting and living in Sapa,” she said as she presented her rolledup canvas. “It is a wonderful place for art and I hope to stay forever.”

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pub quiz Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC Publishment Manager: Nguyeãn Theá Sôn Editor in Chief: Leâ Thò Thu Höông Editors: Phöông Lam Giang Traàn Ngoïc Thöông Designed by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC Cover & content by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC VIETNAM NEWs AGENCY PUBLISHING HOUSE 116 - 118 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q3

Celebrity Hair Don'ts!

1) The Wet Wet Wet hit 'Love Is All Around' was used in the soundtrack to which film?

2) What type of animal were the characters of the novel and film Watership Down?

3) Which Prince of Monaco married Grace Kelly?

4) How many players are there in a water polo team?

5) What type of food is damper?

Nines 6) Who starred in the 2000 film The Whole Nine Yards?

7) How many balls are on the table at the start of a game of 9-ball pool?

8) Deep Space Nine was a spinoff from which sci-fi series?

9) Who was Queen of England for nine days before she was beheaded?

10) What name is given to a shape with nine sides?

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26)

In 4,000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27cm taïi Coâng ty ITAXA ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

Giaáy ÑKKHXB soá: 1808 - 2014/CXB/03 - 37/ThT Quyeát ñònh xuaát baoen soá 290/QÑ-NXBTT, caáp ngaøy 13/10/2014 In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 11/2014 AsiaLIFE Media Advertising Communications JSC 2Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Da Kao Ward, District 1 Tel: +84 8 6680 6105 For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © AsiaLIFE Media Advertising Communications JSC

27)

France 11) In what year did France win the FIFA World Cup? 12) Who is the patron saint of France?

13) In the Tour de France, who wears a white jersey with red polka dots?

14) What title was given to the heir apparent to the French throne?

15) How many countries does Metropolitan France – the part in Europe – border?

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1) Four Weddings and a Funeral 2) Rabbits 3) Rainier III 4) 7 5) Bread 6)Bruce Willis 7) 10 8) Star Trek 9) Lady Jane Grey 10) Nonagon 11) 1998 12) St Denis 13) Leader of the mountains classification 14) Dauphin 15) 8 16) Trees 17) words 18) Somniphobia 19) Men 20) Beards 21) Texas 22) John Lennon 23) Indira Gandhi 24) Prime Minister of Sweden 25) Archduke Franz Ferdinand 26) Queen Elizabeth II 27) Nicolas Cage 28) Danny DeVito 29) Prince William 30) David Caruso

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Assassinations 21) In which state was John F Kennedy assassinated?

22) Who did Mark David Chapman assassinate?

23) Who was assassinated by bodyguards Satwant and Beant Singh?

24) Olof Palme was assassinated in 1986. What position did he hold?

25) Who did Gavrilo Princip assassinate in Sarajevo?

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Phobias 16) Of what is dendrophobia a fear?

17) Of what is logophobia a fear?

18) What name is given to a fear of sleep?

19) Of what is androphobia a fear?

20) Of what is pogonophobia a fear?

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Pub Quiz Answers

Wet