AsiaLIFE HCMC November 2013 Cook-Off

cook-off:

the black box challenge

ISHCMC celebrating

years of success A truly international learning environment with 50 nationalities represented and the only school in Ho Chi Minh City fully accredited to teach all 3 IB programmes for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.

20 celebr ating

years of success 1993 - 2013

asialife HCMC 3

AsiaLIFE volume 68 Asialifemagazine.com

front

08 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

22

40 Sterling's Saigon Martini man

41 48 Bistro

13 Street Smart: Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Cheap French food

16 Q&A With Crazy Fool

42 Quan Bui High-end Vietnamese

18 Photo Essay: The American West

43 Suzuki Dipped ramen

cover story

22 Cook-off:

The Black Box Challenge

style & design

44 One Man's Trash Art from an expat

46 Fashion Shoot: Off the Deep End

storyboard

28 Breaking Into Books Tips from young writers in Southeast Asia

30 Goodbye to Classrooms Free online classes for all

32 Little French People Colonial France exploiting mixed-race kids

back

34 On Target

50 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide

Archery comes to Vietnam

88 Odd One Out Monkeys attack

89 This Country Life

getaways

A ride down history lane

36 Plain of Jars

90 Pub Quiz

Archaeology site in Laos

38 Typhoon, What Typhoon?

A normal day in Taipei

44 Cover Art Direction Sarah Joanne Smith Photography Fred Wissink

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46

note from the editor Group director sales and marketing / director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Managing editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialifemagazine.com Contributing editor: Ruben Luong Ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Art director: Sarah Joanne Smith sarah@asialifemagazine.com Photo editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifemagazine.com Production manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

Editor-at-large: Brett Davis Brett@asialifehcmc.com

Chris Mueller I’ve never understood the obsession people have with cooking shows. To me, they’ve always fallen into the same category as strippers: something you can look at but can’t touch. What’s the point of that?

However, there is an exception to this: the cook-off shows Iron Chef and MasterChef. Maybe it’s the competitor in me. Or perhaps I just enjoy watching other people struggle in a kitchen for once. But these shows have an amazing appeal, whether it's watching professional chefs panic as the clock ticks down or finally seeing how that mess you’ve been seeing for the past 50 minutes turns into a masterpiece.

That’s why in our latest cook-off we played off the Mystery Box Challenge from the hugely popular MasterChef program. This was our fourth cook-off to date, and is by far the most complicated and interesting competition the magazine has done. It is the first AsiaLIFE cook-off in which we had a true winner (chosen by our three judges).

This year’s competition sets a precedent, too, because it is the first time we have filmed the entire thing (which can be viewed on our website).

When you watch the video and read our cover story, you will see the whole four-hour cook-off tied up into a neat, much-shorter package. But that was far from the reality. There were so many moving parts to the competition that I was amazed when it went off without a hitch, and, most importantly, that everyone seemed to have a good time.

All four chefs — who graciously spent their muchdeserved day off (or in one case, afternoon off) — were amazing. Not only did they prepare some impressive and delicious dishes, but they also endured our many technical difficulties. I thank them, and our judges, for the effort they put in. I’d also like to thank Sava The Gourmet in District 2 for providing all of the ingredients and allowing us to use their kitchen and equipment.

Keep in mind that our cover story in this issue is only a summary of all of the action involved with the contest.

To get a better idea of how it went, be sure to watch the video on our YouTube channel or Asialifemagazine.com/ vietnam.

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For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Cambodia Group editor / director: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing editor: Ellie Dyer

Art director: Hilary Fastier Sales: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Next time you're in Cambodia check out the latest content from AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it at:

Asialifemagazine.com

NEWS What Da Heo?!?

From the guys behind the hugely successful 90s hip-hop birthday party in September, comes What Da Heo?!?. This night of old school anthems, golden era classics and new jams that simply will never be heard at the usual “hip-POP” establishments is for anyone looking to escape the DJs that take their cues from MTV. Your wallet will love it too since they’ll have the lowest beer and cocktail prices in town.

DJs Foniks, Happy Hayden and Starchild will be pulling no punches, but whether this night continues in the future is really up to you. So come out and support quality hip-hop music in Saigon. What Da Heo?!? will be held on 8 Nov on the 2nd floor of Universal Pub, 90 Bui Vien, D1 from 9.30pm till infinity. Cover is VND 50,000.

Home Sweet Home

A new draft law could give foreigners more rights to own property in Vietnam, expanding who may buy real estate, when they can transfer it, and how long they can keep it. The Canadian Chamber of Commerce hosted a recent luncheon where Marc Townsend, of CBRE real estate services, and Jerome Buzenet, of DFDL Legal & Tax, said the proposal needed lobbying from expats and foreign companies.

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EVENTS Townsend noted that, despite the real estate slump, areas such as Phu My Hung in District 7 are doing well. Meanwhile, District 2 is turning out not to be an attraction for families, as believed, because Vietnamese prefer to live near relatives and familiar shops and schools. Townsend also said the property market needs better infrastructure, such as a metro, in order to improve.

The Little Prince

Marking its international debut, Dragonfly Theatre Company will stage its rendition of The Little Prince this month at the 11th Bangkok Theatre Festival. The troupe received rave reviews from The Saigon Times for its adaptation of Antoine de SaintExupéry's children's tale last year, when it premiered in Ho Chi Minh City. Written by Dragonfly's founders, Nicaraguan Jaime Zuniga and American Aaron Toronto, the play stars famous Vietnamese actress Nguyen Lan Phuong to help reinterpret the parable of the Prince, who leaves asteroid B-612 for Earth.

Performances run 2-17 Nov throughout Bangkok.

Jazz It Up

Rie FURUSE, a Parisian singer from Japan, will perform live jazz concerts every night from 16 Nov to 15 Dec at Sofitel Saigon

Plaza's Boudoir Lounge, 17 Le Duan, D1. She has toured in Singapore and Vietnam, blending contemporary jazz, fusion and funk. In 2010, she received The Best Music Award at Saigon's 48-Hour Film Project Awards.

The singer discovered jazz while studying French literature at Japan's Dokkyo University, where she developed admiration for musical legends Ella Fitzgerald and Charles Aznavour. She composes songs inspired by life in Paris, where the jazz scene continues to flourish in the SaintGermain-des-Prés. Concerts will begin at 8pm.

Dreaming of the Outback

Student submissions for Australia's online competition, Win your Future Unlimited, are ongoing until 18 Nov, when seven finalists will be selected for the chance to win a year of study in Australia next year. Applicants are asked to design digital postcards illustrating their aspirations and how they'd benefit from an Australian education. The seven finalists will travel to Australia for a two-week study tour to meet with representatives of tertiary institutions around the continent. The final winner, who will receive flight accommodations, full tuition, a personal stipend and an internship in 2014, will be announced on 17 Dec. Visit Futureunlimited.

com.au for the contest submission form and details.

A Heartwarming Cause

Centre Medical International's charity gala this month will raise funds for medical operations for underprivileged children suffering from heart disease at the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City. A welcome champagne cocktail will be followed by a four-course dinner by executive chef Asif Mehrudeen and a live auction and entertainment. The gala takes place at Park Hyatt Saigon, located at 2 Lam Son Square, D1 on 30 Nov. Entry VND 2,800,000.

Helping Hands

The Consular Club will host its 20th annual International Charity Bazaar on 23 Nov to raise funds for disadvantaged Vietnamese.

Over 2,000 guests attended last year. At the fundraiser, guests can purchase international goods or raffle tickets to win prizes like airline tickets, resort stays and spa packages. Proceeds are distributed to projects supported by The Consular Club. Founded in 1994, it has completed 24 humanitarian projects in southern Vietnam, including the construction of protective bridges for villagers and installation of water wells in schools. The bazaar will take

Dance, Dance, Dance

Saigon's inaugural German Ball kicks off 23 Nov, featuring classic ballroom dancing and a four-course gala dinner of German delicacies. Backhaus Music Company's 12-piece orchestra and German ladies band Princess-Cut will usher in the evening's festivities following a cocktail reception and opening of the dance floor. Patrons can browse the silent auction table to bid on hotel vouchers and other items to benefit three charity projects sponsored by the German Board Association. The ball takes place in the grand ballroom of the InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1. Tickets are VND 3,170,000/person. Contact 09 09 02 30 06 or info@german-ball-saigon.com.

place at the White Palace Convention Centre, 194 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan District. Entry is VND 100,000 for adults.

A Run to Remember

Registration is open for the 17th Annual Terry Fox Run on 24 Nov to build awareness in the fight against cancer. Participants can join the five-kilometre run, walk, wheel or ride. Additional donations through the purchases of 2013 Terry Fox Run T-shirts can be made as well. Last year drew 14,600 participants and raised VND 1.7 billion for cancer research. This year's run will be held at the Crescent Arena in Phu My Hung, District 7, at 8am. Terry Fox was a Canadian athlete who had his right leg amputated after he was diagnosed with cancer near his knees. He embarked on a cross-Canada

run to raise money for cancer research. To register for the run, print and fill out a registration form at Canchamvietnam.org/ social-activities/terry-fox-runin-hcmc.com and deliver it with your donation to one of four registration sites listed on the website.

Learn Vietnamese

Viet Studies is offering a free trial for expats who want to learn Vietnamese. The program already has clients from ILA, RMIT, the British Council, and others.

They also have separate English classes. To sign up for a free two-hour session, call Nancy Huynh (Diep Huynh) at 09 09 69 07 85, or 08 39 30 38 21. Other contact details: diep.vietstudies@gmail.com, Vietstudies.edu. vn, and Floor 6, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, D3. asialife HCMC 9

Amazing A O

There will be 13 scheduled shows for A O at the Saigon Opera House, located at 7 Lam Son Square, D1, this month. A O has been earning praise for its art and circus performance, which uses Vietnamese bamboo and basket boats as the leading visuals for the show. Set to traditional music, the show is an hour long and has no script, no climax and no sequence, but each detail is meant to reflect the heritage of the Vietnamese community and touches on themes such as the Vietnamese life dream, survival and love. Tickets range from VND 630,000-VND 1,470,000 for official rates and VND 530,000-VND 1,250,000 for special rates on certain days. Buy them at Aoshowsaigon. com.

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Pet of the Month

Kit is an adorable one-year-old female cat who is healthy, active, spayed and fully vaccinated. She has had a rough start to life and spent many months in the clinic’s kennel before she was finally able to join the cat room at ARC. She has now lived with many foster parents but none of them have been able to commit to taking her permanently. Kit is an affectionate, sweet and loving cat who likes nothing more than having her chin scratched and plenty of loving attention.

If you are interested in adopting her, email ARC at arcpets@ gmail.com or visit Arcpets.com.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Sundown in Singapore Singapore's fifth annual Sundown Festival unites 10 rock and pop acts from eight Asian countries, including Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Each year new countries are added to the lineup of gigs. Bands from three Southeast Asian nations, Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines, will participate in the mix this year. Hit groups such as K-pop band AOA will perform as well. The eight-hour festival takes place at the Marina Promenade, a greenbelt strip next to the Singapore Flyer, the world's tallest ferris wheel. Street food and fringe culture performances will also provide diversions. Doors open at 3pm, Saturday, 16 Nov. Tickets are $100 and can be booked at Sundownfestival.sg.

Music for the Masses This year's Clockenflap, a three day music and arts festival in Hong Kong, will feature 50 performances from artists such as Franz Ferdinand, Gold Panda, Two Door Cinema Club, Metric and Tegan and Sara. The performers will play on seven music stages, including Harbourflap stage, which supposedly offers great concert views.

Local acts from Hong Kong will also share the spotlight. Inspired by international festivals like England's Glastonbury and South by Southwest in Austin, Texas, Clockenflap was founded in 2008 and is in its sixth year. Last year's festival brought 18,000 festival goers, while this year 30,000 are expected. A 10,000-square-metre site will also be set up as an art village, along with a silent disco and a film tent. The festival runs from 29 Nov to 1 Dec in Hong Kong's West Kowloon Cultural District. Buy tickets at Clockenflap.com.

Join the Club The Legian Bali resort resides along the Balinese shores of Seminyak Beach, where there's a beautiful stretch of golden sand and coconut palms readily adjacent to the best shops and nightlife. The resort, which has 68 guest rooms and suites designed by an Indonesian designer who used natural fiber furniture and flooring, offering 10 percent off on one-bedroom deluxe suites at The Legian Bali and one-bedroom villas at The Club at The Legian. Each room offers multiple balconies with views of the sunset. Advance purchase includes use of the health club and sauna. The offer is valid until 31 March, 2014. Reservations must be made a minimum of 60 days prior to arrival date. Book at Ghmhotels.com/en/the-legion-bali.

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Street Smart:

Nguyen Dinh Chieu Ruben Luong treks this long and diverse street in search of unique and unexpected shops and cafĂŠs.

Nguyen Dinh Chieu crosses four-kilometres from Hoang Sa along the canal in District 1 to Ly Thai To in District 5.

Sandwiched between main roads Dien Bien Phu and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Dinh Chieu is teeming with new shops and ventures along blocks of long-standing outlets.

The density of sights and businesses

along this street requires more than one visit to see all it has to offer. Vuon Chuoi Market and the monument to self-immolating Buddhist monk Thich Quang Duc are prominent attractions you're bound to come across. But each subsequent stroll will lead you to something new and exciting.

Shops blend into one another, so it's crucial to survey the street for the best finds.

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Organica 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Organica, a Hanoi-based enterprise, is capitalising on the diet-conscious minimart trend.

Its premier commodity is the alternative sweetener Stevia (sweet leaf), an all-natural, no-calorie herbal supplement that customers can purchase in liquid, tablet or sugar form.

Stacked cartons of Steviaenhanced teas, such as rose, jasmine or chrysanthemum, also line the shelves, and range from VND 30,000-VND 40,000.

Besides Stevia products, Organica stocks coconut oil and crates of fresh produce, including chanh dao, a pink lemon you will covet.

Urban Station 130B Nguyen Dinh Chieu The aroma of roasted coffee welcomes customers as they pass through inverted red doors, which resemble the phonebooths of London.

Inside, international cityscapes are silhouetted in fanciful line murals. Throngs of local students swarm the drink bar in the afternoon, and perhaps for good reason. Confections of choco-mint, banana toffee, passionfruit or macadamia quench thirsts in a variety of Italian sorbets, smoothies or ice-blended drinks (VND 31,000). Settle down in the foyer for window views of Nguyen Dinh Chieu traffic.

Artbook 1B1 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Saigon's evolving architecture is one of the most intriguing aspects of the city. Catch up on the latest in design and architecture at Artbook, a small supplier of magazines and coffee-table books related to 14 asialife HCMC

home decor, graphic design, interior design and building construction. Publications like FutureArc (VND 190,000), which researches green design in Asia, are worthwhile discoveries that will enhance your understanding of the urban landscape while inspiring newfangled ideas for your space and home.

Ducoin 76 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Ducoin is something of a secret garden on Nguyen Dinh Chieu.

The new café is two flights up and easy to miss on the street.

Few know about the location, so it's quiet and not crowded.

Meditative new-age jazz plays in the background, a welcome alternative to overplayed pop music. Grab a book or Vietnamese graphic novel near the entrance, browse photos of Old Saigon on the walls, and then sit at one of the wide wooden tables with a drink. If you're feeling adventurous, try the egg coffee (VND 36,000).

Lá 323 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Shop Lá is a hidden museum of interesting and affordable handmade jewelry. Curious stones, colourful beads and burnished metals are hand assembled into mostly unisex necklaces and bracelets (VND 65,000-VND 265,000). The shopkeeper constructs some of the jewelry at a central table, where small clusters of assorted rocks, gems and chains glisten. Shadowboxes of statement accessories cover the walls, showcasing one-of-akind styles as well as traditional or commercial items, such as knock-off sunglasses or designer watches catering to

Photos by Ruben Luong

tourists.

dresses, frocks, and miscellaneous styles in silk or chiffon — hang in a mélange of paisley, polka-dot and floral patterns, ranging from VND 200,000 to VND 3,000,000. Be sure to head down the alley for the shop’s adorable outlet for children.

The Vintage 443 Nguyen Dinh Chieu You'll have no trouble finding women’s clothing shops towards the tailend of Nguyen Dinh Chieu, but most tend to sell the same generic styles. The Vintage, on the other hand, is a tiny closet shop reminiscent Chipchip of New York City’s bou484 Nguyen Dinh Chieu tiques. Stylish bohemian For all things strange and garments — organised an emSEED half page hor copy oct.pdfneon, 1 Chipchip 9/27/13 is9:20 AM by long dresses, miniporium for cheap trinkets

and amusing paraphernalia. The weirdest keychains, the cutest slippers and the funniest figurines are scattered everywhere you turn. From Super Mario backpacks and rubber neon watches to Hello Kitty mugs and twist headbands, most items cost anywhere from VND 10,000 to VND 200,000.

A casual saunter through the shop will quickly inspire small gift ideas for friends and family.

Get directions

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CRAZY

FOOL

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The Thailand-based radio personality speaks with AsiaLIFE about his two-month-old station, Q4radio.com, and what it means for the future of music listening.

Photo by Fred Wissink.

"It’s a good listen because it’s a little bit bizarre, it’s a little bit off the wall, and, if I dare say, it’s a little bit intelligent as well."

What is Q4radio?

Essentially it’s all about the music, that’s the first and foremost. It’s an eclectic mix of every genre of music you can get your ears around. The idea is to simply to bring new music, up-to-date music — whether it be drum and bass, rock and roll, old classic, indie, punk, whatever — to everyone. We don’t play any cheesy-type music. We play proper music, what everyone wants to hear.

In your photo there is a Scotch egg (a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and coated in breadcrumbs).

What is that about?

It’s from the Scotch Egg Club, which is from my radio show. It’s just a way for people to tune in and get involved with the show and join the banter. All you have to do is call in and mention a Scotch egg and you’re in the Scotch Egg Club. It was just a weird idea, and now it’s spiraled out of control and is part of the show.

How did you get into radio?

I used to do a spoof newspaper online under the name of Crazy Fool when I was in Vietnam. It was offbeat news stories and a bit of sport. Then I started podcasting a radio show: I got together with a few pals and basically started talking nonsense.

When I moved to Thailand I got into radio more seriously, working on an FM and

internet station. Later on that station went in a different direction, and I ended up starting a brand new station — Q4radio — because I thought what we were doing was pretty cool.

down in the pub talking and listening to good music.

How has internet changed the face of radio?

I’ve been friends with Rod Quinton (of Q4 and Saigon Sound System) for a long time, and I love what Q4 is doing here: putting on music, getting new talent, and promoting live shows. There was a distinct lack of live music in Saigon for many years, and now Q4 is doing everything possible to boost live music, giving people a venue that they can go to regularly. I got my head around that in a big way and thought that idea and radio go hand in hand.

It’s been a huge change. It has made it much more accessible to everyone. If you’ve got an electronic device, you can listen to the radio. These days, radio is coming back in vogue. People used to only listen to it in the car, then when they get home they put the TV on. Now, a lot more people listen to radio more often. I’d listen to the radio 24/7 if I could. And if you’ve got someone turning up the music for you, rather than having to download your own stuff, it’s refreshing and a nice change.

For those who haven’t heard it, can you describe your show and on-air personality?

‘Crazy Fool’ pretty much sums it up.

Although the show is structured, it is very much off the cuff as well. What I find interesting about it is that I never know what I’m going to say next and I think listeners have got no idea either. It’s a good listen because it’s a little bit bizarre, it’s a little bit off the wall, and, if I dare say, it’s a little bit intelligent as well. We aren’t just talking about rubbish for the sake of it, there is always a point to it. It’s very truthful and very raw, it’s as if you're with your mates

How is Q4radio related to Q4 in Saigon?

What audience are you trying to reach?

Eighteen plus is the only restriction I suppose, if there were a restriction. That’s not because it’s full of cursing or anything, but because the banter and what we’re talking about is aimed at adults. It’s good clean fun, but it’s not humour a 10 year old is going to be interested in. Right now most of our listeners are expats in Southeast Asia because that’s where we’re located, but we’re getting listeners from everywhere — America, Canada, Australia, Europe, New Zealand — people around the whole world are tuning in.

The links for streaming Q4radio can be found at Q4radio.com. Crazy Fool's show plays Monday to Friday from 7.30am to 10.30am.

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Sunset falls on Delicate Arch in Arches National Park, Utah.

Sunrise at Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

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Sunset in Monument Valley, Arizona.

Photo Essay:

The American

WEST

by Steele Burrow

T

hese images cap several years of photography work in an area often called the Four Corners — Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah — with the most recent ones taken in Arches and Canyonlands national parks in Utah last summer. Four-thousand-metre peaks, waterfalls and desert rock formations formed over millions of years give the region a serenity made even more indelible by the scale of its landscapes. To see more of Burrow's work visit Burrowimagery.com.

False Kiva, located in a remote part of Canyonlands National Park.

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A rainbow emerges from an afternoon storm near Pagosa Springs, Colorado.

Clouds after a rain in the San Juan National Forest, Colorado.

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A windmill alongside the highway in eastern New Mexico.

Lightning over Colorado's south San Juan Mountains.

Stars over Monument Valley, Arizona.

A long exposure image of stars in the San Juan Mountains.

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cook-off: the black box challenge 22 asialife HCMC

I

n our fourth cook-off to date, we have brought the competition to a whole new level. This time around, we’ve selected four of Saigon’s best chefs hailing from around the world and pitted them against each other in the same kitchen. As if competing against one another weren’t difficult enough, they're also required to follow a theme and use ingredients from a mystery ‘black box’, both revealed right before the contest. The food and kitchen for the cook-off were provided by Sava The Gourmet in District 2. By Lien Hoang and Chris Mueller.

If you’d like to see the chefs in action, check out our video of the event on the AsiaLIFE YouTube channel or at Asialifemagazine.com/vietnam.

the challenge

the black box

Our challenge for the chefs was to create a dish that best represents Saigon in 2013, using as many of the ingredients in the box as they wish. They were shown the contents of the black box right before the cooking began and given five minutes to select any ingredients from Sava The Gourmet’s extensive pantry. The chefs then had 60 minutes to prepare one dish before the judges gave their score. The winner got bragging rights.

One bottle of red wine and one bottle of white (provided by Tan Khoa) One coquelet (young chicken) Iberian pork Foie gras Marou chocolate San Pellegrino

the judges

the scoring

Richard Sterling: AsiaLIFE columnist and renowned food writer.

Ann Ha: Local food blogger and social media strategist.

Brett Davis: AsiaLIFE editor-at-large who has eaten food his entire life.

Presentation: 5 points Theme: 5 points Taste: 10 points Best of show: 1 point

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J O AN M ANALANG

“I loved her presentation, absolutely beautiful. iT WAS A STILL-LIFE" richard sterling

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I

n the Philippines, Joan Manalang had gained a bit of media attention for hiring herself out as a private chef. Or rather, hiring in: She would cook romantic dinners for couples at her home, even throwing in some rose petals for ambience.

So she had no problem with the cameras and audience that crowded around her as she rushed through AsiaLIFE’s latest cook-off.

Manalang might have dropped a knife or two, but that wasn’t out of nervousness that she was being filmed.

“I’m a clumsy person in general,” she said.

The Geisha Cafe chef served up the most colourful entree in the contest, a whole coquelet marinated in fish sauce, ginger and cumin. She also used the marinade as a unifying element to make both a raspberry compote, as well as a light sauce for the swirls of pasta around the small chicken. “It’s like a mini-Thanksgiving,” she explained to the judges.

Originally from Manila, Manalang started cooking for her grandmother at age 10 and was trained in Florence. Still, this is a career shift for her. Before becoming head chef at Geisha, Manalang spent much of her professional life (and still does) in advertising.

She entered the competition for fun, not worrying much about her rivals before or during the cook-

ing. A couple days earlier, she did worry that foie gras might be a secret ingredient (“I don’t like it,” she said), and ultimately didn’t include it in her dish.

Throughout the hour, Manalang changed her mind twice about what to prepare. At one point she considered baking the chicken in tomato sauce, but then didn’t want to use the time-consuming oven.

The most difficult part was “organising in my brain,” she said.

Manalang said she can whip up a meal in minutes when she knows what to expect, but this was unfamiliar terrain. She hadn’t competed in a kitchen in years, but does watch cooking shows similar to the AsiaLIFE cook-off.

“It validates what you see on TV,” she said of the experience.

“You feel the pressure.”

The Verdict: “I loved her presentation, absolutely beautiful,” Sterling said. “It was a still-life.”

He added that Manalang’s was “very much a family dish”, thus reflecting the Saigon theme and the Vietnamese style of sharing meals. But Sterling found the bird unevenly cooked, while Ha felt the overall package was disjointed.

“I wasn’t sure how all the flavours combined,” she said.

thierry faburel “I was actually cooking, but I had no idea where I was going.”

T

hierry Faburel scrambled around the kitchen in a panic.

“Where are my vegetables?” he asked. “I completely forgot to take vegetables.”

In the five-minute race to choose ingredients, he managed to grab some strong aides — raspberries, passionfruit vinegar, and truffle oil — but only added one bell pepper to his basket, and no spices.

Even with the shortage of ingredients, Faburel went to work on the coquelet as soon as the clock started, cutting the bird into smaller pieces before carefully pan frying it. Next he prepared the foie gras and Iberian pork, the only other ingredients he would use from the black box.

After 23 years of professional cooking, 14 of them in Saigon, the France-native said he was experienced with all of these ingredients and uses some of them in his kitchen at the Boathouse restaurant in District 2.

Despite this familiarity, about 30 minutes into the competition, he still hadn’t decided what to cook. “I was actually cooking, but I had no idea where I was going,” he said afterward.

It wasn’t until he opened a tub of chicken stock that his dish started to come together.

“Obviously that was my luck,” Faburel said of having the stock.

“It’s very hard to do a savoury

broth without taking three or four hours, and I had no spices or vegetables. So basically it saved my life. I don’t usually like it, but I was happy to have it.”

With the addition of strips of pasta sliced thinly to look like noodles, his dish became more complete. He added the chicken and pork to the broth and also threw in some scallops before seasoning it with passionfruit vinegar and truffle oil.

“I had too many flavours to work with, so I decided to keep it simple,” he said.

But how did his dish represent Saigon in 2013?

“I did an imitation of a Saigon dish,” he said. “I used the concept of bun bo Hue — mushroom, seafood and a little bit of meat.”

The Verdict: “It was a great idea,” Sterling said. “He took a Mediterranean base and a Vietnamese organisation.”

All of the judges agreed, however, that the presentation could have been better. “We thought it lacked a bit,” Sterling said. “It was a bit monochromatic.”

As for the flavour: all three judges only had praise. “It was delicious,” Ha said.

“The taste was complex and even.”

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gabe boyer

I

t would be easy to think of Gabe Boyer as the least-experienced chef in the competition because he was the youngest. But the 29-years-old’s relatively short career has taken him through the kitchens of two different Michelin-star restaurants in his native Chicago. Once in Vietnam, he became executive chef at Chill bar before moving on to head the highest kitchen in the city at Cirrus, on the top of the Bitexco building.

Boyer was clearly cool under pressure, especially since this wasn’t his first time in a similar contest, having competed on the second season of Iron Chef Vietnam. While he appeared to know exactly what he was cooking, it wasn’t until later he admitted that wasn’t the case.

“I was thinking about what I should cook until the very end,” he said afterward. “I had so many ideas in my head that I was trying to piece it together and narrow it down.”

He did piece it together, and presented a dueling coquelet: two separate dishes served on one plate.

Half of the dish was a lightly-fried tempura coquelet skewered with lemongrass. The chicken sat on a bed of tomato, onion, and lettuce with caramelised fish sauce vinaigrette, and lapsang souchong, a Chinese smoked tea. He also added fried boquerones, or white anchovies, saying they added a modern twist to his

26 asialife HCMC

otherwise classic Asian ingredients.

The second half was a bit simpler: pan-seared breast with foie gras puree seasoned with fish sauce and pink peppercorn.

Boyer said he only chose ingredients from Asia or ones that reminded him of Vietnam and used quick-cooking methods that allowed him to spend more time on the flavours. “I basically focused on the sauces,” he said.

While some of the chefs struggled with not having enough ingredients, Boyer had the opposite problem.

“I took all of these luxurious ingredients — caviar, truffles, and morel mushrooms — and I didn’t use any of them,” he said. “I figured I’d let the more rustic ingredients speak for themselves.”

The Verdict: Of all the dishes they tasted, the judges said Boyer’s dueling coquelet had the clearest theme.

“He brought some great techniques to it, and it was really well thought out,” Davis said.

Ha said she liked how he used the fish sauce to flavour the dishes, giving it a distinctly Vietnamese flavour.

Sterling called it “meat you can eat with a spoon”, adding that it was “simple, but outside the box”.

“I had so many ideas in my head that I was trying to piece it together and narrow it down.”

nguyen thien

W

hile waiting for the cook-off results, chef Nguyen Thien was asked if he wanted to win. He answered with a question: there would be a winner?

Indeed, there was a winner, and it was Thien.

With Thien’s limited English, some details of the competition were lost in translation. Which made it all the more surprising that, despite missing or misunderstanding a few instructions, Thien came out on top.

“I was surprised everyone was cheering me on,” he said. “There was a really fun, happy atmosphere.”

He presented to the judges pieces of coquelet stuffed with foie gras and mushrooms, sitting on a Caprese-like salad of mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, and green and yellow bell peppers. Thien, the head chef at the Refinery, created a sauce by mixing red wine with gravy from the chicken.

“It was a dead heat. At the end of the day, it was the flavours, they were out of the park.”

Brett Davis After getting some help with the electric stove (like most Vietnamese, Thien is used to working with a gas stove), the chef showed his ability to improvise. He cooked the chicken in a pot for a golden finish, but then moved it into the oven to heat it more evenly. Unable to find an oven pan, Thien simply placed the chicken on a metal lid.

Thien, who comes from Nha Trang, said he got into cooking by chance. After being trained at the Sofitel hotel’s Olivier restaurant, he has worked at the Refinery for six years. He likes the creativity of fusing European food with Vietnamese cuisine. He occasionally cooks for his wife and has even taught her how to make a few dishes.

“In general, being a chef means giving people something to enjoy,” he said.

On the topic of victory, he was more interested in self-improvement.

“In a competition, anyone wants to

win,” Thien said. “But you really win for yourself.”

The Verdict: winner Ha especially liked the moistness created by the mushroom-and-foie-gras stuffing.

Each of the three judges ended up granting a bonus point to Thien. “We were pretty well-aligned,” Ha said.

“I watched you construct it earlier, and thought, ‘Oh my gosh, a sculptor at work,’” Sterling said as soon as everything had been plated.

Davis noticed that Thien chose the least amount of optional ingredients, opining that the chef must have known exactly what he planned to cook.

“It was a dead heat,” Davis said of the judges’ decision-making process. “At the end of the day, it was the flavours, they were out of the park.”

asialife HCMC 27

As New Zealander Eleanor Catton, 28, becomes the youngest winner of the prestigious Booker Prize, Ellie Dyer gets some industry insight and advice from talented up-and-coming authors who have been inspired by Southeast Asia. Photo by Conor Wall.

28 asialife HCMC

On Writing

E

veryone has a book inside them, or so the saying goes. But of the many manuscripts written every year, only a lucky few will garner that all-important publishing deal and reach the shelves of the world’s bookstores and libraries.

“I have been pretty inspired by writers in Cambodia, who just keep on writing no matter what,” says Laura Jean McKay, the Australian author of Holiday in Cambodia, a newly-released collection of short stories based around the interaction between expatriates and locals in the Kingdom.

“But I did get some great advice a few years ago: that the first 10 years of your writing life is your apprenticeship,” adds the 35 year old.

“Regardless of whether you publish books in that time, you are just starting out. Only after that, you really know your stuff. I tend to agree.”

Penning a novel can undoubtedly be a long hard slog.

Writing and editing takes time and, without a pre-arranged book deal, many have to consider how to make a living whilst inking their work. As if that isn’t hard enough, there’s the challenge of finding an agent and getting the work produced in physical format. The advent of the internet has enabled writers to self publish more easily — 50 Shades of Grey started life as an e-book — but many would-be authors still tell nightmarish tales of endless rejections.

They are in good company. A young Stephen King famously placed his rejection letters on a nail on his wall, before the weight became too much. He went on to replace the nail with a spike and continued writing, eventually becoming one of the world’s most recognisable horror writers. Even boy magician Harry Potter had set-backs reaching the page. J K Rowling was reportedly

rejected by 12 publishing houses before Bloomsbury accepted her manuscript.

“The overwhelming majority of people will meet rejection many times before finding success,” says Lucy Cruickshanks, 29, whose Southeast Asia-inspired first novel was released earlier this year and shortlisted for the Guardian newspaper’s Not the Booker Prize literary competition. It took four years from setting pen to paper for the Englishwoman to see her fascinating fictional tale in published form.

So, what’s the key to success?

Sticking to your guns, according to McKay, who travelled Cambodia to conduct interviews for her stories, which tackle issues from mine clearing to the sex trade and aid work.

Ignore fashion and write in the style that suits your story best, be that poetry, essay writing or prose, she says. The author also recommends reading the Nou Hach Literary Journal, which is produced once a year in Khmer, English and French, to discover great writers working in Cambodia such as Chakriya Phou, Tararith Kho and Sok Chanphal, who won a prestigious SEA Write Award last month.

For Cruickshanks, who recommends the “magnificent” The Glass Palace by Amitav Ghosh, it’s simple: be confident in your work and write a good book. Having a thick skin to face the inevitable challenges and reader reaction won’t go amiss, but ultimately talent will show.

“If you write a gripping, emotional story full of exciting and relatable characters, people will want to read it,” says the author, whose second novel set against the backdrop of the 1980s Burmese ruby trade is due for release next year. “Just write the best book that you possibly can and have the confidence in it to persevere if you get knocked back. In the end, cream rises.”

Journalist Robert Carmichael shares the experience of writing his first work of non-fiction, set to be published next year.

Leaving: A Disappearance, A Daughter’s Quest and Cambodia’s First War Criminal weaves the lives of five people to recount the damage done by the Khmer Rouge’s rule. It centres on the disappearance of a junior diplomat, Ouk Ket, who was recalled to Cambodia in 1977 and later died at the infamous S-21 prison.

Decades later his widow and daughter gave evidence at the trial of prison chief Duch.

I can pretty much guarantee that your enthusiasm will flag at some point, and for those moments it helps to have some uplifting quotations from other writers pinned near your desk.

I have this from the late Ray Bradbury: “Action is hope. At the end of each day, when you’ve done your work, you lie there and think: Well, I’ll be damned, I did this today.

It doesn’t matter how good it is, or how bad — you did it. At the end of the week you’ll have a certain amount of accumulation. At the end of a year, you look back and say, I’ll be damned, it’s been a good year.”

What also works? Keeping home and work separate. I go to my office every workday and write from 8.30am until 6pm. I found staying offline was useful, as was limiting my social life. Obsession helps, so make sure you’re in love with the story you want to write. Have a daily target — say 1,000 words — and keep in mind Bradbury’s maxim.

Work out your structure beforehand. The current layout of Leaving is its fifth and, believe me, reworking what I had into a new structure every few months wasn’t fun. I swear by the low-tech method of index cards, one for each scene in each chapter, stuck to a window in my office.

Last tip: once you’ve completed each chapter to a reasonable degree, put it to one side and don’t go back to it until you’ve finished the book. Otherwise you risk ending up with only two or three "perfect" chapters, and that’s probably not what you had in mind when you started. asialife HCMC 29

A worldwide trend to offer free classes online to anyone, anywhere, is making its way to Vietnam. By Lien Hoang.

Every year, thousands of young Vietnamese eagerly go abroad for university. But what if that education came to them instead?

Vietnam is slowly joining an educational trend that is sweeping the globe: massive open online courses, or MOOCs. One of the best-known models is Coursera.org, which collaborates with prominent universities in the United States to record a semester’s worth of lectures. Those videos are uploaded to the website, where anyone can sign up to take the 30 asialife HCMC

class by following the lectures week by week, taking quizzes, and doing readings.

This means that a student in Ho Chi Minh City can take a course at Yale, without ever leaving the city (or the house, for that matter).

But most offerings are in English, which shuts out the majority of Vietnamese who are interested in higher learning.

Enter Giap School.

Dr Giap Van Duong launched Giapschool.org in August, providing what appears to be the first website with a range of MOOCs in Vietnamese.

“My purpose is to bring knowledge from the world to Vietnam,” Giap said in a phone interview from Hanoi. His hope is that “students here can learn at the same level as students in the US”, which is the epicentre of the MOOC wave.

Giap creates the lectures himself for the subjects within his sphere of study, such as chemistry and physics.

For those subjects outside his expertise, such as philosophy, he translates lectures from Edx. org, which is a collaboration between Harvard and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Life-long learning These MOOC programs are thought to be revolutionising the state of higher education, not just because anyone can access top-notch classes from anywhere around the world, but also because they’re usually free. In one economics class at Coursera, for example, 1,754 students are in the United States or Canada, while 1,743 are located in Asia-Pacific.

And it’s not just college students who are signing up. In that same economics class, 1,307 are undergraduates, while 2,068 said they work in a related field. Many of the students are more than 30 years old, with

several dozen over 70 years old.

“Many businesses, particularly in the United States, are recognising the value of people who take courses like these,” a US consular officer said during a recent information session on MOOCs at the American Center in Ho Chi Minh City.

While MOOCs don’t result in the same college credit available in a traditional undergraduate school, some do grant certificates of accomplishment to those who finish with a passing grade. Students can then take those certificates to enhance their resumes, or convince their employers it’s time for a raise or promotion.

But this could also be cause for concern. Nguyen Thi Thanh The, a lecturer at Hoa Sen University, said Vietnamese students care too much about certificates rather than actual learning. That could drive them to flout standards of academic honesty, for the sake of a certificate.

“I think online courses are more and more popular in countries around the world,” Thanh The said during the question-and-answer portion of the MOOC information session. “But how can we avoid cheating?”

Some websites have a disclaimer similar to this, which students must check off when taking quizzes: “In accordance with the Coursera Honour Code, I (insert student name) certify that the answers here are my own work.”

‘Not to make money’

Other MOOC websites are Udacity.com, which now has Spanish and Portuguese options, and Khanacademy.org.

With funders that include the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, the Khan Academy relies more on videos with digital chalkboards for colourful drawings and explanations, rather than lectures. Khan gives students points and badges to help them track their progress.

Coursera, on the other hand, is lecture-heavy. The videos are interactive: they stop occasionally with a multiple-choice

question to see if students are grasping the material. There is more structure to the classes, because students are supposed to go at the same pace, whereas Khan allows you to watch video lessons at your leisure.

Subjects on most of these major websites cover everything from art history to organic chemistry.

Giap School, of course, is not as extensive. Giap, who runs this one-man show, said he has 2,000 students registered for the Understanding Communications class. He is shooting for 1,000 to 1,500 lectures a year and hopes that after he makes the first 1,000, he can bring his work to donors to solicit funding.

Giap and his wife, two children, and grandparents are living off their savings for now.

Advertisers have approached him with partnership offers, but that’s not the model he wants to pursue.

“This is to educate people, not to make money,” he said.

“Courses are free, no advertisement.” That sets it apart

This means that a student in Ho Chi Minh City can take a course at Yale, without ever leaving the city (or the house, for that matter). from HocMoi, a new startup that charges for foreign, online courses translated into Vietnamese.

Giap holds degrees from universities in South Korea, Austria, and his native Hanoi, where he returned last year to bring foreign learning standards home to Vietnam. He also has done research in the United Kingdom and Singapore.

He estimated Giap School needs $5,000 to $10,000 a month to cover costs like equipment and bandwidth. While he didn’t mention the possibility of government support, Giap did say he wishes more public funds went toward education, such as translating quality textbooks into Vietnamese.

“I think that first,” he said, “we have to build a knowledge infrastructure.” asialife HCMC 31

little french people'

'

Professor Christina Firpo presented research this spring about French-Asian children who were taken from their mothers and turned into pawns in colonial times. Firpo, who teaches at California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo, said the French used these mixed children to bolster the so-called white population in Indochina. By Doan Thi Ngoc. Photo by Fred Wissink. ixed-race children don’t always have it easy, but things have come a long way since the days of French colonisation. Before 1945, many French colonists and officials in Indochina merely saw such children as unwanted offspring whom French fathers abandoned to their Vietnamese, Cambodian or Lao mothers. The métis or “con lai” were marginalised by native society.

However, because so many people were killed during World War I, French officials and a number of French civilians began to see these children as a potential solution to the demographic problem in the colonies. The strategy of the government was to increase mixed-race numbers to strengthen the French population as an expression of colonial power. Actual white French settlers would decrease in Indochina, but programs of local population growth were built to enhance the number of white but not-truly-white people.

French civilians, military personnel, and government officials took to searching for children all over rural areas in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos whose fathers were French or of other European nationalities. After 1945, they extended their quest to children whose fathers were African soldiers and Indian troops who served in the French army — children without the blood of "the white

M

man". Specifically, they were looking for children whose fathers had left their families, whether it was a result of divorce, death, the end of a romance, returning to France, or raping women who later gave birth to their children.

Because the fathers of these mixed-race children did not recognise them nor marry their mothers, their fates depended on the official rules of the French government. These children also did not inherit the rights and privileges of French citizens. They lived with their mothers but were labelled as "abandoned" children, so the French authorities used their power to temporarily protect and bring them into social organisations to raise them.

Such organisations were officially classified as "French orphanages" run by a "child welfare foundation" (CWF) — even when many mothers were not ready to give up custody.

The colonial government identified the Vietnamese, Cambodian and Lao mothers as one of the biggest problems hampering their plans to use these abandoned children. They were annoying not only because these indigenous women gave birth to men and women for the future of France, but also because they brought them up as potential nationalists who were embedded in Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Lao culture.

White, colonial officials and members of the CWF separated

the children from their mothers and a Southeast Asian cultural environment. They aimed to integrate them into white society and prevent them from becoming people with Asian culture characteristics and forming their own political and cultural identity.

Another plan to solve the demographic problem was to train the mixed-race children to become officers in the colonial army. In 1938, the colonial government established a military academy for the "abandoned".

They formed the leadership teams essential for the colonial

The colonial government identified the Vietnamese, Cambodian and Lao mothers as one of the biggest problems hampering their plans to use these abandoned children.

After removing them from their mothers, the French colonial government sent the fair-skinned children to boarding schools, where they were educated about French culture and turned into “little French people”. From 1919-1929 the French government had the children "contribute” to the prosperity of the nation by sending them to regions where the white population had been decimated by war.

“The Eurasians were a better option than to import foreign workers from other areas in Europe,” a colonial minister wrote. “Mixed children of French fathers are more eligible to become French than foreigners who don’t have a drop of French blood but become citizens after staying in France for a long time.”

army, who would be loyal to the French and use their bilingual skills to communicate effectively with troops.

The next step was to integrate these children into French colonial society as a fixed political elite in France.

When these later children matured, they took administrative positions previously held by the French, so the colony would never lack white officials. According to the Brevie Jules organisation plans, Eurasian kids would be "the French" and were educated to form a class of "colonialism for the future”, or a "special class of French in Indochina". History, of course, had other plans.

This article was adapted from a version published in a Hoa Sen University newsletter. asialife HCMC 33

o n t a r g e t Saigon Fun Club brings a unique new pastime to the city: archery. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

34 asialife HCMC

Early on a Saturday last month, 11 Vietnamese archery students competed against one another in a tournament in District 5.

The prize would be a bow. For the first challenge, they shot a moving target launched into the air by a small catapult. But beforehand, Hoang Van Anh gave them some unexpected advice: Don’t focus on the bullseye.

"People just want to hold the bow and shoot right away,” Anh says, “but it's important for them to listen first."

Many view archery as an entertainment sport, but forget it's also an exercise in discipline. As curious onlookers trickled into the tournament, keeping a safe distance, Anh told his students to concentrate on their form and technique rather than the bullseye.

Tall and silver-haired, Anh is a certified instructor for the National Field Archery Association in northern California, where the Da Nang-born videographer is based. He is also the founder of Saigon Fun Club, an entertainment sports club offering the city's first archery course.

In spite of modern caricatures of archers (Hawkeye, the brawny hero from The Avengers, comes to mind), the Saigon Fun Club doesn’t always follow the script on what an archer should look like or do in Vietnam. For one thing, Anh wears sandals.

"Do I look like an archer?"

Anh asks, glancing at himself.

"Archers should at least wear real shoes,” he jokes. “Not like me,” He adds, by way of explanation: “This country is so hot."

Anyone as young as eight can give archery a try at the club. There are two locations: a short-range classroom in District 1 and a new entertainment arena with a cordoned-off lot in District 5, where Anh gives

me a tour.

Anh says he started the club because he wanted to introduce a unique pastime for locals. Archery is embedded in the histories of Asian countries, such as China, Japan and Korea, where it played a substantial role in hunting, rituals and mounted warfare before the Common Era. But it has never been as prevalent in Vietnam. To date, Saigon Fun Club is one of the only archery ranges open to the public in the country.

"In movies, you see archers focus with one eye, but the most correct way is to use both of your eyes on one point."

In general, archers begin by standing straight. Arms are extended perpendicular to the body and feet must be in line with the shoulders. To rest the bow, archers tip it against the opposite calf to ease its weight when lifting it back up.

The two styles of archery, traditional and Olympic, differ in how one holds the bow and anchors the arrow. Students in the archery course learn both styles on the third floor of the Youth Culture House in District 1. There, a glass wall encloses a 12-metre range. Racks of imported bows from the United States separate 12- to 35-pound recurve bows (used for combat, sport and Olympic style archery) from 22- to 60-pound compound bows (used for advanced hunting and moving targets).

Each class, students aim at paper targets mounted on boards in the range.

"I learned how to aim with two eyes," says 25-year-old Khanh Le, who's been taking archery courses for three

months. "In movies, you see archers focus with one eye, but the most correct way is to use both of your eyes on one point."

Classes also incorporate games, such as shooting names on balloons to eliminate competing classmates. The most popular activity is dueling from opposite ends of the range.

Students wear fencing masks, and the tips of the arrows are padded for protection.

It seems dangerous, but there haven't been any accidents so far. Anh is a big proponent of safety, especially since the sport is new to Vietnam. Rules about how to shoot on signal, retrieve the arrow from the bullseye, and hold the arrow are made clear.

Though anyone is welcome to give it a shot, archery does take a lot of time to master. "You must practise a lot," says Nguyen Can Trong, an architecture student who's been at the club for a month.

"You don't need to work very hard, but you have to be serious," Anh says of the sport.

"Archery is not only about your strength. Most of it is how you use your mind. If you are distracted, you'll never get the target, even if you're the best archer."

The archery class meets twice a week for two-hour sessions. Each archery course is three weeks and costs VND 300,000. The entertainment arena in District 5, which features 28-metre ranges and simulated hunting, charges VND 50,000 for 30 minutes.

Saigon Fun Club Youth Culture House 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, 3rd floor, D1 08 73 00 83 04 8am-10pm .

105 Tran Hung Dao,D5 08 66 82 03 66 8am-11pm

asialife HCMC 35

Plain of Jars A largely overlooked archaeological wonder in Laos poses as many questions as it answers.

Story and photos by Brett Davis.

I

nside the white you’re alright, outside the red you’re, well, possibly dead.

These are the colours of the handy markers laid down by the NGO that cleared the Plain of Jars site in northern Laos of tonnes of unexploded ordnance left over from the wars in Indochina in the 1960s and 70s.

On the inside of the markers the ground has been cleared by teams from the Mine Action Group while the outside red denotes areas where there still may be mines, cluster bombs and other assorted munitions. It says something about the intrigue of this archaeological site that people will take the (albeit slight) chance of being blown up to see it.

Sometimes referred to as the Stonehenge of Southeast Asia, the Plain of Jars sits on a plateau in Xieng Khouang province in the north of the country and is made up of 90 sites containing hundreds of stone jars 36 asialife HCMC

hand-hewn from limestone, sandstone and granite. The jars range in size from one metre to three metres in height with a liprim design. However, no lids have ever been found, indicating the lids were probably made from bamboo or wood. The jars are thought to date to the early Iron Age, about 500BCE, although some archaeologists think they are possibly older.

The area was first surveyed by a French geologist in the 1930s, and there was a good deal of conjecture about the purpose of the jars. Some theorists thought them burial chambers, vessels for grain storage or even containers to ferment rice wine. Subsequent studies by archaeologists from a Japanese university and UNESCO have found evidence of human cremation and graves at some sites, leading to the conclusion that the jars were used in a complex and formal burial ritual.

All the details of what was involved in this process cannot yet be explained, but there is thought to be some similarities to ancient burial rituals used by Thai, Cambodian and Lao royalty. In this process the corpse was placed in an urn to begin a ritual decomposition, or a transformation from the earthly world into the spiritual. Later, the bodies were cremated and then interred in the ground.

The main sites visitors see are atop some of the gentle hills that roll across the plain.

The rice is tall, the paddies below are green and in the distance the tall peaks that ring the Xieng Khouang plateau fade in and out of the purple clouds. The theory of the jars being burial sites seems more than plausible given their tranquil and elevated position.

The very same tranquility of the place, not to mention the remaining existence of these ancient artifacts, is something of a miracle

It says something about the intrigue of this archaeological site that people will take the (albeit slight) chance of being blown up to see it.

given the tortured history of the place in the latter part of the 20th century. For almost a decade, starting in 1963, this part of Laos was one of the most bombed places in history. In order to disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the Pathet Lao, or Lao communist movement, the United States lobbed some two million metric tonnes of ordinance on top of the people of Laos, equivalent to almost eight and a half tonnes per square kilometre in the areas bombed, or a little more than 800 kilograms for every man, woman and child in the area at the time.

Per head of population, nowhere in the history of warfare has a place or a people been subjected to such a bombardment as those who lived on the Xieng Khouang plain. Much of the deadly payload that remains comes from the estimated 270 million sub-munitions, or cluster bombs, that are scattered across the countryside.

Travelling around the countryside you can see split bomb casings that have been used for fence palings or supports for crude animal shelters. The recent history of this place is all too apparent as you make your way around the deceptively beautiful landscape. The old and the not so old mix together at several jar sites where huge bomb craters can be seen right alongside some of the stone vessels.

Back in Phonsavan, the hard scrabble town that is the main jumping-off-point for the Plain of Jars, much of the nascent tourism industry plays heavily on this troubled history. Yet it is the more imponderable legacy of the ancient stone jars that will endure. Just as they have for several millennia, these artifacts of an ancient people will stand watch over the landscape and reduce such small human concerns to mere moments in time. asialife HCMC 37

Typhoon? What Typhoon?

Ellie Dyer flies from Phnom Penh to Taipei, and straight into the eye of a storm.

T

he building let out a low groan as strong winds screamed across rooftops, shaking windows and rattling doors.

Outside the apartment window, trees were bent at a 45-degree angle as waves of rain lashed through the streets. Watching all this, I couldn’t help but think that visiting Taiwan’s capital, Taipei, during typhoon season wasn’t such a good idea after all.

The monster storm screeching over the city was Soulik, a powerful typhoon that barrelled over northern Taiwan and China earlier this year, leaving at least two dead and forcing tens of thousands of people to evacuate. I had flown into Taipei a couple of days before it hit, when weather reports began to dominate local news and sand bags appeared in the sweltering days that marked the calm before the storm.

I soon discovered that, quite possibly, I was the only one reduced to a nervous wreck. It takes more than a whirling mass of 38 asialife HCMC

pressure with wind gusts of 140 miles-perhour to scare Taipei. The city of 2.6 million people had obviously seen it before, countless times, and were going about their daily routine — while taking a few minutes out to buy water, food and duct tape from the local supermarket.

On the night of the typhoon itself, sushi restaurants were still pumping with customers at 10pm. The only noticeable difference was the amount of rain gear being worn, and the person I’d spotted earlier that day wearing a crash helmet to protect himself from flying debris. The next morning, as I hopped over felled trees and skirted past huge swathes of ivy torn from walls overnight, it was business as usual. What resilience on an isle regularly rocked by powerful earthquakes and extreme weather.

Taiwan is, if anything, an island of contrasts. The weather may be violent and its coastline full of raw beauty but, in

comparison to much of Asia, modern Taipei is a highly organised and relatively calm metropolis. The subway system — the MRT — is affordable and pristine, green areas are common, crime is low and people are unfailingly polite. Even consumption of the island’s many renowned culinary delicacies is conducted in an orderly fashion.

At the fascinating open-air Raohe Night Market in Songshan district, for instance, large crowds circle stalls full of sizzling dishes and steaming pots in a strict counterclockwise direction. Neat queues stretch out in front of more popular treats, including a legendary stand offering succulent pepper buns, where spiced meat is stuffed into round dough balls and baked inside huge, steaming pots in front of diners. Nearby, groups of friends tuck into an infamous national obsession, the fermented and highly pungent dish known as ‘stinky tofu’, while fresh dumplings and wasabi-covered

On the night of the typhoon itself, sushi restaurants were still pumping with customers at 10pm. The only noticeable difference was the amount of rain gear being worn.

Photos by Ellie Dyer

It takes more than a whirling mass of pressure with wind gusts of 140 miles-per-hour to scare Taipei. mushrooms are washed down by a glass of passionfruit-flavoured drink containing ‘exploding eggs’ of natural jelly that burst on the tongue.

Spend a few days in the city, and you’re bound to spot some quirky scenes in a society that embraces the concept of ‘cute’.

National air carrier EVA Air owns Hello Kitty airplanes, complete with a bubble pink check-in area at its major airport, while Barbie-themed restaurants dot Taipei along with stalls dedicated to novelty dog clothes.

On one memorable occasion I spotted several generations of the same family wearing matching outfits at the city’s major night market, Shinlin. The labyrinthine shopping paradise that contains an excellent food hall and a maze of frenetic stalls offering everything from baby clothes, to neon accessories, laptop bags and lashings of bubble tea.

Taipei is perhaps also the only place where a loo-themed restaurant would be

successful. For the adventurous, a branch of The Modern Toilet is set in the youthful shopping hub of Ximending, where diners sit on toilet-shaped seats and are served food in bathroom-inspired ceramics. The achingly cool area, which has been compared to Tokyo’s Harajuku, is also home to the distinctive octagonal 1908 cultural centre, The Red House, as well as being a hub for cutting-edge fashion-focused teens.

And with Taipei set in a natural basin surrounded by tall, green mountains, nature is never far away. Walk along the banks of gently curving Keelung River at dusk and you’ll stumble upon friends playing basketball and family groups enjoying a bike ride beneath the shadow of colourfully illuminated bridges. Hiking trails and hot springs are easy to reach, as are the Oolong tea plantations of Maokong. Head to the city’s excellent zoo on the MRT before hopping in a glass-bottomed gondola that takes

you to the hillside houses where traditional tea ceremonies are held.

You can also appreciate Taiwan’s natural world within the confines of the city. Take a lift to the top of the famous Taipei 101 skyscraper to see a panoramic view of the city’s mountains stretching out before you, or head to the elegant Sunny Hills pineapple cake shop in Songshan. Here, visitors will be treated to a cup of tea and a free sample of the tangy brick-shaped treat, made out of indigenous tangy fruit surrounded by a crumbly pastry casing.

Taipei is a fascinating, quirky and addictive place, but travelling there is not without its challenges. English isn’t widely spoken, food can be unfamiliar and you may be stuck inside for a few days during a typhoon. But as I quickly realised, the best trick is to follow the example of the hardy citizens of Taipei; in other words, keep calm and carry on. asialife HCMC 39

The Martini Man On an afternoon in 1862, in the then young city of San Francisco, a man stepped into the saloon of the Occidental Hotel on Montgomery Street.

He told the barman, ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas, that he was embarking on a business trip to the northern California town of Martinez. Perhaps Martinez was considered propitious or, more likely, dangerous in those Gold Rush days, because the good prof said he would concoct a special drink to commemorate the occasion and wish the traveller a good journey.

Gin and vermouth followed ice into a shaker. Thomas shook the mixture so long that thousands of tiny ice crystals broke off the mother cubes and emulsified with the surrounding liquid. He poured the now milky looking result into a chilled glass. The atomised ice crystals rose to the surface and resolved themselves into a glacial pool, leaving below a drink of perfect icy clarity. A bit of lemon was the original garnish. Thomas dubbed it the Martinez Cocktail.

We don’t know what became of our travelling businessman. Martinez was an agricultural hub at the time. Maybe he bought wheat futures. But a few years later the drink found its way into Thomas’ book, How to Mix Drinks or The Bon Vivant’s Companion. But whether due to Thomas’ creativity or an editorial erratum, it was by then called the martini. And the rest is drinking history.

I’ve been a martini drinker for many years, although not so much in Saigon. You see, making this drink is a bit like piloting an airplane. In principal it’s quite simple. But it’s unforgiving of mistakes.

So here in town I usually have it at home where I can make 40 asialife HCMC

it to Thomas’ specifications.

But when I want to go out for my favourite dram I can go, appropriately enough, to the Martini Bar in the venerable old Caravelle Hotel.

The Martini Bar is a rather low-lit cave that burrows back into Saigon history, lined with old black and white photos of the city’s colourful past. At the entrance sits a baby grand piano where a gentle ruffian in a Trillby hat coaxes out melodies to accompany a stylish songstress. At the far end is the bar, and a mobile martini cart where Mr Le Hoang Thao coaxes out perfect martinis to

that, unlike the first one made

by Thomas, it is no longer one for the road. It is traditionally the first of two, each lasting about half an hour. Hence our term “the cocktail hour”. Yeah, that’s where that comes from.

And the cocktail hour precedes the dinner hour. At the Martini Bar that’s just a step or two into the Reflections restaurant.

No need to carry the remnants of your second martini to the table. The staff will see to that.

And do let them do so, because the appetiser menu at Reflections is perfect martini food.

Oysters Rockefeller or Killpatrick make love to vodka and

You see, making this drink is a bit like piloting an airplane. In principal it’s quite simple. But it’s unforgiving of mistakes. those who desire them, be they stylish or not. Mr Thao knows his gin and vermouth. And his olives and lemon peel as well.

More to the point, he knows how best to combine them into perfect balance, to pilot his bibulous plane without error.

He wheels his cart to your table. Asks if it’s vodka or gin, olive or lemon, straight up or on the rocks, extra dry, or with a goodly splash of vermouth, as Thomas would have done.

And then he shakes it till it hurts. This is no mere twoor three-shake motion that you might see in a too-hip joint done by a bored hipster who’s too hip to care. Mr Thao knows that proper martini service is part of the enjoyment of the drink. And it must be done with aplomb. And so he shakes with a combination of care and ferocity. Then he deftly strains it into your garnished glass, and quietly wheels his cart away.

Martini aficionados all agree

gin. And Caesar salad sings a duet with vermouth. And so does much of the main menu as well. On my last expedition to the Caravelle I saved the last of my martini to savour with Reflections’ superb lamb shank. Lady C (you know her by now) paired her martini with the house’s signature lobster dish. And we wept for those who will never be able to try it.

Next time I go there I think I’ll try a martini as an afterdinner drink. I’ll let Mr Thao wheel his cart to the table and shake me a good one to go with the silky smooth crème caramel, or the sweet and piquant passionfruit sorbet. And just maybe, as an homage to Jerry Thomas and the wayfarer to Martinez, I’ll have just one for the road.

Martini Bar and Reflections Restaurant 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel Lam Son Square, D1

48 Bistro A good example of a Saigon success story is 48 Bistro.

Vietnamese owner and entrepreneur Tu Ly, a former chef at the New World Hotel, is a cordial man with a solid professional reputation. His restaurant has served highquality French and Vietnamese cuisine for seven years.

While small eateries around Saigon are constantly closing, 48 Bistro has expanded to include 52 Le Thi Rieng Street this year.

Meat and seafood dishes prepared in decadent sauces are surprisingly inexpensive on the restaurant's menu.

Delicacies such as beef steak with French goose fat,

Gourmet French and Vietnamese food at affordable prices.

By Ruben Luong. Photos by Fred Wissink.

roasted lamb chops with mint and apple jelly, stewed rabbit in red wine, sesame shrimp with Cognac sauce and clay pot rice with salted fish cost between VND 78,000 and VND 385,000. It's an unusual bargain for such gourmet offerings.

Over glasses of red wine, first we had a chateaubriand Vietnamese beef steak (VND 200,000). It was dredged in salt and black pepper and garnished with ample garlic bits. The beef was juicy and cooked to a perfect rare. Ly noted that the beef is sourced from the Central Highlands, impressive since beef this tender is often imported.

Foie gras is another specialty of the restaurant.

The pan-fried foie gras with balsamic glaze (VND 385,000) will please even those unaccustomed to eating liver. The stacked bits of foie gras were delicate and golden. Each bite had a subtle crisp that dissolved into a savoury paste.

The foie gras can also be prepared in lemon, strawberry, apple, or prune and cherry sauce for something sweeter.

Our last dish before dessert was three baked oysters with cheese (VND 107,000) that were big enough to fill our palms. Blanketed in velvety and piquant cheese, similar to mini pizzas, the meat on each

oyster was especially rich and creamy.

The meal wouldn't have been complete without a sweet chocolate mousse cake (VND 59,000) to cap things off properly. Meanwhile, a heavy rain poured outside.

But inside the restaurant, where it was unusually quiet and tranquil, the chocolate cake, soft lighting, vintage movie posters and nostalgic streetside photos made for a relaxing meal.

48-52 Le Thi Rieng, D1 08 38 33 29 32 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, seven days asialife HCMC 41

Quan Bui Almost every table in Quan Bui restaurant's newest outpost in District 1 is filled on a recent Friday afternoon.

Three flights up, a party of 19 Vietnamese guests share a flurry of local dishes on the restaurant's Cochinchinainspired roof garden terrace.

The dishes, prepared in old-fashioned pottery and hotpots and brought from the open kitchen on the ground floor, are colourful and wholesome. They are comprised of traditional ingredients, strictly MSGfree. The new location on Ngo Van Nam Street, which opened earlier this year, is a bigger and refined version of the first Quan Bui at Nguyen 42 asialife HCMC

Traditional Vietnamese dishes, suitable for dining family-style, receive fresh, authentic updates. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Van Nguyen Street, also in District 1.

An 11-page menu, front and back, lists numerous options in English for noodle, pork, beef, chicken, seafood, tofu, stir-fried vegetable and hotpot dishes that range from VND 49,000 to VND 359,000.

To avoid feeling overwhelmed, order a diverse set of food and dine family-style.

Rice is separate.

A popular appetiser, goi cuon (VND 59,000) is a reliable choice. Spring rolls, arranged in a fan formation on the plate, were tightly packed with oriental herbs, vermicelli noodles, prawn and pork meat. We sprinkled a bit of chilli into our bowl of

peanut sauce for some extra spice.

Some of the tastiest mains at Quan Bui are the fish options. Ca file xot chanh day (VND 89,000), which had four fried fish fillets drenched in a tangy passionfruit glaze, was a novel dish. The fruit was tart but not overpowering, and the crispy fillets fractured easily into bite-sized slivers of white fish meat.

Suon non ram sa (VND 89,000), or braised pork ribs with lemongrass, was a spicy counterpart to the passionfruit fish fillets. Each pork rib was covered with potent lemongrass shavings and chilli that left a powerful aftertaste. Served in a silver

container, there was more than enough for three people to share.

Not only has the fare been upgraded, but the interior of Quan Bui has too. Mosaics of old French floor tiles are intermixed under wooden tables, producing a modern effect. Quan Bui is onto a trend that's surfacing in new Vietnamese restaurants: providing a chic and oldworld style ambience that parallels a health-conscious, discerning selection of authentic foods.

17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 08 38 29 15 15 8am-11pm, seven days

Suzuki The menu is unfinished, still borrowing from the Singapore mothership, and Suzuki has only been around for half a year. But it’s already generating buzz and attracting Japanese diners in the Little Tokyo that is Le Thanh Ton Street.

Designed by the same person responsible for neighbouring Pizza 4P’s, Suzuki has an industrial interior with a stripe motif, from the lines along the glass walls of the staircase, to the spirals around the lightbulbs. If you’re with a group, make the meal an outing by going upstairs to dine in the postmodern, pod-like booths, which have openings just large enough for one person to enter at a time.

A Japanese noodle house that introduces “dipped ramen” to Ho Chi Minh City. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Suzuki has a tunnel-vision focus on its single main entree, Japan’s national noodle. The rainbow of ramen options include: the basic pure white, the cardinal red or jet-black versions with miso, the emerald green (because of the basil), and the shrimp-based sakura pink. All cost VND 120,000 to VND 160,000 and come with tonkotsu, a pork-based broth that’s not as heavy or oily as those found elsewhere, but is still very hearty.

The one must-try item is the “dipped ramen” (VND 190,000) at Suzuki, which seems to be the only place in the city to offer it. Servers bring out a plate of thick noodles, and a bowl of tonkotsu,

pork belly and shoulder loin, a flavoured hard-boiled egg and seaweed. The fun part is dipping the cold noodles into the hot mixture for each bite, which has the bonus of preventing the ramen from getting soggy.

While waiting for the main attraction, guests can nibble on gyoza (VND 60,000) with a blend of soy sauce and chilli oil. Suzuki brings something new to the table, preparing the dumplings with basil, which adds a surprising amount of flavour and texture for such a small leaf.

The menu includes instructions on how to eat ramen (sip, taste the noodle, stir in sauce). Diners also can exercise

creative control by putting together their own bowl using a form on the table. Check off the colourful ramen preferred, then choose from toppings such as black fungus, bamboo shoots, fish cakes and spring onion.

There are three levels of noodle firmness and three levels of broth and oil intensity. Just make sure to finish everything. Suzuki doesn’t have takeout containers because ramen is meant to be eaten immediately.

8/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 01 26 89 95 61 8 11am-2pm, 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm, 6-11pm Sat-Sun Suzuki-hcmc.com asialife HCMC 43

The use of recycled materials marks a radical departure for painter HÊlène Kling, adding an industrial touch to her latest collection. By Jade Bilowol. Photos by Brett Davis.

44 asialife HCMC

L

ying amid a garbage dump’s debris and weeds, disused and rusted 44-gallon oil drums are hardly a sight to behold.

Yet French-born painter Hélène Kling, who has called Vietnam home for almost two decades, could see gallery potential in this otherwise desolate scene.

After testing the drums’ lids as painting surfaces, she progressed to their circular bodies that, when beaten until flat, make for spacious, albeit unconventional, canvasses.

“The last two years have marked the beginning of a new research line for me — I turned to three-dimensional materials that are recycled and can be combined with high-grade materials,” Kling says. “Corrugated iron, cardboard and other waste materials give to my art a rather crude aesthetic look, which is then softened by the addition of gold or silver leaves and semi-precious stones.”

While scrap materials signal a shift in her choice of medium, Kling stays true to a recurring theme throughout her time as an artist: women.

“This discovery of recycled materials perfectly matches my idea of how I want to represent women through my paintings — full of energy, robustness and indestructibility, but still voluntarily embellished with jewels,” she says.

Kling started painting professionally in 1999, establishing her reputation on the back of work influenced by Vietnamese women, landscapes and icons.

“I have lived in Vietnam since 1996 and I

have seen that the evolution of this country follows the woman or indeed the opposite way,” she says. “Vietnamese women are the essence of the land; they are its beauty, its strength and its intelligence.”

Her latest collection, which is to be showcased at Ho Chi Minh City’s Exhibition House from 14-18 Nov, builds on the theme of women through a prism of different cultures and walks of life.

“My artistic research covers both a reflection on a woman’s image and the situation of women in different societies,” Kling says.

Comprised predominantly of female portraits painted on recycled materials, the exhibition is called “Rêve de Fer”, French for “Dreams of Iron”.

It’s based on the phrase “poubelle plus belle”, which translates to “most beautiful rubbish”. Kling explains “belle” (beautiful)

is also in the word “poubelle” (dustbin), implying beauty can be found in the garbage dump.

Kling says she has consciously tied her medium to her subject, aligning the “tough beauty” of the recycled materials to that of the women in her paintings.

“The ethnic woman in my work ‘H’Mong Fleuri’ has a slightly frowning expression, implying a nerve of steel, while the Japanese woman in ‘Rubis’ has something akin to rebellion in her gaze,” she says.

Upon closer inspection, it becomes apparent Kling has experimented with the look and feel of the iron surfaces.

“When depicting the earth of Africa, I kept the iron’s rust. It accentuates a woman’s lines and memories so I go with it,” she says of weaving the drums’ grit into her paintings. “But to match a bold, young woman’s smooth skin, I varnished it.”

Was working with bumpy sheets of iron difficult?

“I usually think a lot about the limitations of the medium that I have decided to use but also, more generally, about the power of expression my creations should show,” she says. “What I love about art is that ‘right now’ is unique and the feeling you have can never come back again. As a painter, what I paint now would be different to what I paint later, as what I feel now I can’t feel next week.”

Hélène Kling’s latest exhibition, “Rêve de Fer”, will be held at Exhibition House at 92 Le Thanh Ton Street, D1, from 14-18 Nov. asialife HCMC 45

of f the d eep en d 46 asialife HCMC

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Building, D1 Tel: 3827 2105/06 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service between HCM City and Manila, offering fare options to suit all travel requirements.

listings

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

hotel & travel AIRLINES

Air Asia 223 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9811 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion every Friday.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Philippine Airlines 91 Pasteur, 2nd floor, Saigon Royal

escape

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 03600 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Are you a golf lover? Then a specially priced golf package for November is just for you.

The package includes a two-night stay in a Standard room at the Novotel Nha Trang, daily buffet breakfast and one round of 18-hole golf at the Diamond Bay Golf Club for two guests. A complimentary transfer between the hotel and the golf course is provided. Offer and stay is valid through 20 Dec. Package cost is VND 8.3 million (green, caddie and buggy fees for golfing included).

However, there's a surcharge of VND 350,000 for guests who stay on the weekend. For a reservation, contact 05 86 25 69 00 or email rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com.

Need another round of golf? Then head to

50 asialife HCMC

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe

De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute

take flight with travel promotions around the region

A Round On Us

Another Round?

CON DAO

the Banyan Tree Lang Co north of Da Nang until 19 Dec for the Stay and Golf Package.

The package includes two nights in a deluxe room, daily breakfast, round-trip airport transfers and one 18-hole round of golf for VND 8.4 million on a weeknight and VND 10 million for a weekend. Banyan Tree Lang Co is a luxurious retreat nestled in a crescent bay that provides endless privacy and serenity in central Vietnam. To book a reservation, call 05 43 69 58 88 or email reservationslangco@banyantree.com.

Highlands Honeymoon

Until 20 Dec, the Endensee Dalat Lake Resort & Spa is offering a couples package for VND 5.3 million. The deal includes a two-night stay in a superior room, a romantic dinner for two, a full-body massage, and

free use of the swimming pool, gym, tennis courts, and cinema, as well as airport transfer. The Edensee Dalat offers stunning lake or mountain views from each hotel room and special seating on the resort's private balcony. The five-star resort combines old-world European charm with contemporary interior design for a chic and romantic getaway.

Dalatedensee.com.

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Check us out on your computer, tablet or smart phone • Updated with news • Listings with links to google map • Features • Video Reviews

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drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up

bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5

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Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

in Hoi An, just five minutes from the Old Town and 30 minutes from the Da Nang airport. The property has 82 rooms and villas, all with private balconies or terraces facing the ocean, a swimming pool and a wide range of cuisine from around the world.

HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools.

All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

Boutique Hoi An Resort Tel: 84 51 03 93 91 11 www.boutiquehoianresort.com This resort is located on Cua Dai Beach

HUE

Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux,

and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660

www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Vietnam

Book online Cambodia

Laos

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co.

www.beeninASIA.com

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its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

listings

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le

CAFES

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior,

outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience

broaden your palate with promotions around town

A Classy Thanksgiving

The Caravelle Hotel's Thanksgiving Dinner Buffet at Nineteen Restaurant will not only fill guests with unlimited stuffed American Turkey at its carving station, but with overflowing platters of local and international gourmet dishes. Platters of French cheeses, imported cold cuts, hand-rolled sushi and fresh-baked bread and soft rolls will tempt guests in the appetiser corner. The buffet's live seafood station harbors a selection of fish and shellfish hand picked fresh and cooked on the spot to guests' liking. A free flow of fine red, white and rose wines will be on hand. Roasted and barbecued meats, salads, soups and desserts — including traditional pumpkin pie and the Caravelle's signature cream caramel — will guarantee a happy Thanksgiving as well. Nineteen Restaurant is on the ground floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1. The buffet costs VND 1,013,000 per person.

A Classic Thanksgiving

The Park Hyatt Saigon's attractive three-course

54 asialife HCMC

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

feast

Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Thanksgiving menu, prepared by renowned chef Soren Lascelles, consists of a chef's tasting plate, main and dessert. Truffle pea soup, tuna tartar and foie gras terrine are some of the fine delicacies you'll find on the tasting plates. Diners will enjoy traditional roast turkey with housemade stuffing, mac ‘n’ cheese, steamed beans, cranberry sauce and pan-juice gravy for the main course. Lastly, for dessert is a luscious pumpkin tart or pecan, maple and vanilla chantilly ice cream with coffee or tea. Cost is VND 950,000 per person, plus a five percent service charge and 10 percent government tax. The Thanksgiving meal is available for lunch or dinner on 28 Nov at the hotel, located at 2 Lam Son Square, D1.

Wine and Dine

A sophisticated five-course dinner created by chef Marco Torre will be combined with a decadent wine tasting featuring one of the most respected producers of wines of the Piedmont region of Italy, Michele Chiarlo, on 25 Nov. Wine varietals from his vineyard's wine portfolio will

be paired with each course. The Chiarlo winery is known for producing complex, rich and elegant wines that remain faithful to their native provenance. Torre's menu will begin with herbmarinated Norwegian salmon and the first varietal of wine. Wines will rotate as dishes such as warm sea bass ravioli, handmade potato gnocchi, winebraised short ribs and an Italian cheese platter are brought to the table. The wine dinner is at Opera restaurant in the Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1. Cost is VND 2.5 million per person.

For reservations, call 08 35 20 23 57 or email opera.saiph@hyatt.com.

street gourmet

Sua Dau Phong Sua dau phong, or peanut milk, is a natural drink that promotes general health and wellbeing. It has been proven to increase energy, contribute to a healthy complexion and support the immune system. Sua dau phong is made in a

at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants

similar fashion to soymilk and green bean milk. The peanuts are soaked and blended with water, then heated and filtered. Finally, brown sugar is added to the resulting liquid. A hot glass of sua dau phong costs about VND 3,000. Hieu Vu

in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

L’essentiel 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 38 21 76 82 A French restaurant offering a traditional menu that changes every week in a rotation of four. Dishes range from around VND 100,000 upwards to nearly VND 400,000 and include a variety of meat and seafood options. Cheese and pastries are available as well.

Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

INDIAN

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND. ď‚Œ Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671

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street gourmet

By Darryl Bethea

imbibe The Other Bordeaux The entire red wine popularity contest can trace its roots to the fame of the great red wines of Bordeaux. It is in this area of southwestern France where you will find a great 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, as well as blends.

In the early days of Chile’s winemaking in the 1850s, Chileans tried to play off of Bordeaux’s popularity by planting the standard varietals from the region, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. But in 1994, DNA analysis made a startling discovery: many of the grapes planted as Merlot were actually Carmenere, a Bordeaux varietal that was thought to be almost extinct.

Chile has since turned this mistake into a profitable niche. While Cabernet Sauvignon is still the top red varietal in Chile, the country’s signature grape is Carmenere.

So why is Carmenere so popular in Chile? With a blackcurrant character, it is a thick-skinned grape that ripens late and does well in the sun. The wine that is produced usually has soft, sweet tannins with low acidity and can be consumed while still young.

This means you can drink it alone or paired with foods that go with the other classic varietals, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. It also goes well with meat. When I visited Chile last year, my host had a barbeque pit full of roasting meats: beef, pork and even grilled salmon. The Carmene56 asialife HCMC

re complimented every main course.

Typical descriptions of Carmenere go something like this: velvety smooth, maybe a hint of spice (from oak barreling), juicy, berry, balanced elegance, red fruit aromas, well structured and meant to drink now.

Vines planted in the wine regions of Rapel Valley/Colchagua are your best bets, and some solid producers are Cono Sur Bicicleta, Concha y Toro, Apaltagua, Arboleda and Montes Alpha.

Because Carmenere is affordable and has many similarities to Merlot, it is often ignored. But that is a mistake and makes one wonder why Carmenere and Merlot aren’t more popular. In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon represents only 27 percent of black grapes cultivated. But 58 percent of the grapes cultivated in the region are Merlot.

Chateau Petrus is typically 95 percent Merlot and only five percent Cabernet Franc, and it is without question one of the finest and most expensive wines in the world. I am not suggesting Carmenere from Chile is a version of Chateau Petrus, but its low acidity, softness, fruitiness and drinkability makes it silly not to drink it on a regular basis.

Darryl Bethea is group sales manager for Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at darryl@magnumwinecellars. com or 09 33 78 50 05.

Khoai Lang Chien Khoai lang chien (fried sweet potato) is a popular name in the world of tasty fried treats in Saigon.

The vendor will make a mixture of flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, egg, milk and slices of sweet potato.

Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu.

Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North

The fritters are then fried in hot oil until they turn golden brown. Khoai lang chien can be found on sidewalks and in local markets as you walk and wander around the city.

A serving costs about VND 5,000. Hieu Vu

African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy Street 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food

concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the

ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

Local Eats

By Tristan Ngo

Phuc Kien Good Food Fujian (also called Fukien or Foukien) is a province on the southeast coast of China, bordering Jiangxi and Guangdong.

The majority of the Chinatowns around the world, including Chinese areas in Vietnam, are based on this particular region.

In Vietnam, Fukienese or nguoi Phuc Kien are very popular for their way of doing business, and even more so for their cuisine.

Inside a small courtyard deep down two alleyways off of Hem 513 on Gia Phu Street in District 6, you'll find Gia Phu Phuc Kien restaurant. There are well-placed signs on the main street and in the alley, so you shouldn’t have any problems finding it. However, going to District 6 from the city centre is another story. I've been here a few times and I have to say it reminds me more of a Chinese home than a restaurant, and the alley's decor, signage and people make it feel more like walking in China than Saigon.

On a recent visit to this restaurant, we sat down for a nice pot of lotus tea and ordered some of their house specialties. One of these dishes is oyster omelette with chives, green onions and hagou flour (the same type used in the shell of dumplings). The flour makes the omelette sticky, adding an interesting texture to the 58 asialife HCMC

dish. Another specialty is the steamed and salted chicken served with wok-fried garlic and spring onions. I am usually not a big fan of Vietnamese chicken since it is often tough, but this dish is an exception.

One of my favourite dishes here is the stuffed bitter melon and Mirasol pepper, or ot sung trau (buffalo horn chilli) with fish paste, which is wok fried and topped with black soybean, chopped spring onions, chopped chilli pepper and black pepper sauce.

The last dish we ordered was a massive braised pork knuckle with toc tien, a vegetable that appears to have black hair on it when dried and has a soft texture similar to very fine vermicelli after it has been soaked. In Chinese it means “hair vegetable” and in Vietnamese, “angel hair”. It is no surprise, then, that this is a very popular dish among locals because it represents good health and long life. Served with a five-spiced sauce and coriander, it is simply divine. I recommend you order it in advance and ask them to cook it longer, which will make it much more tender.

Gia Phu Phuc Kien 513/28 Gia Phu, D6 08 39 67 02 65

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more

formal upstairs dining room.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special

elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894

Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si

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culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Blanchy's Tash 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A cocktail lounge that hosts local and international DJs, making it popular with the party crowd.

The Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: (84) 838-247827 www.wineembassy.com.vn Wine bar in district located in district 1 with excellent selection of wines, with signature trios for sampling and comparing. With experts on hand this is a great experience to experience wines at there best.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2

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Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 38 24 78 27 With more than 30 wines by the glass and 100 vintages from all over the world, Wine Embassy offers an excellent place to discover wines in a relaxing and entertaining atmosphere.

listings

Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

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Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

GALLERIES

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Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

SERVICED APARTMENTS & COMMERCIAL SPACE FOR LEASE Hotline: 0918 802526 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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listings

sports & leisure By Phil Kelly

fitness Popping the Soda Bubble It’s incredible to think that the single biggest source of calories for Americans isn’t bread, pasta or Big Macs, but soda. The average American drinks about two cans of the stuff every day.

That’s equivalent to 18 to 20 teaspoons of sugar from just two drinks. But it’s not just the Yanks riding the sugar high; this is becoming a common statistic throughout the world.

But what could be so bad about having a little of nature’s sweet goodness once in a while? The answer is nothing, if it’s done in moderation and you haven’t already developed a health condition that is caused by and/or exacerbated by sugar consumption.

In the last 20 years, sugar consumption has skyrocketed. Over this relatively short time period, sugar intake in the US has increased by 519 percent. This dramatic spike also has a staggering correlation with chronic disease.

And soda has been the biggest modern-day influence on sugar consumption and disease risk. In fact, drinking just one sugar-sweetened beverage per day has been linked to a 20 percent increase in the risk of having a heart attack. The Harvard School of Public Health found that the more sugary drinks are consumed, the more this risk increased.

More people have started

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to realise the dangers of sugar and soda, but this growing awareness has prompted a switch to consuming “sugar free”, “zero calorie” and “diet” beverages. The American Journal of Nutrition found that among adults, consumption of these drinks has risen by 25 percent, and children are consuming more than double the amount they did in the last decade.

Diet or sugar-free soda may have fewer calories, but it is still going to disrupt your metabolic processes and poison your body. Aspartame, for example, is the key ingredient in diet soda and has been found to increase hunger. So while your drink is calorie free, you may end up eating more. Diet soda has also been linked to an increased risk of stroke, and scientists think the high sodium content could be the culprit.

The reality is that all soda, pop or fizzy drink is bad for you. Diet fizzy drinks are even worse than their sugarladened accomplices. That’s a lot of risk for one small beverage. So do your body a favour and skip the soda.

Phil is an expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him through Phil-kelly.com.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for

children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club

8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

HCMC H Noi

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LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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listings

health & beauty

Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists

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f Happ o r l d Aoward for “Excellence iyn DeSn m i l e s . . .

W es tistry” by Viet e 013 Vietnam nam Economic Tim h 2 , T , 2012 0, 01

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2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake)) 4 Dist.3, HCMC / Tel: 38.22.62.22 - 38.23.92.94 starlightdental@gmail.com / www.starlightdental.net

listings

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils

BRING VIETNAM HOME

254 De Tham Street, District 1 Hochiminh City, Vietnam +84 862 705 928 Hotline: +84 905 493 148 Opening hours: 8am - 10pm everyday www.ginkgo-vietnam.com

and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong

44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

Ginkgo Concept Store is located in the heart of historic and touristic Trung Tam Saigon, District 1. This new shopping space offers a Unique and Original mix from different designers and brands made in Vietnam. Ginkgo strives for creative and quality products and to always respect the efforts of the artisans who create them. We focus on natural, organic and sustainable products to ensure that when you share your souvenir back home, the high quality design and creativity will reflect the true culture of Vietnam.

Brands in store Ginkgo T-shirts / Bohemian Luxe / Chic Bubles / Dame Clémence / Diabolo / Dong Gia Ceramics / Harmony / La fiancée Du Facteur / La Petite Epicerie / Luxe Guides / Mads Monsen / Maison Chance / Marou / Mekong Belle / Mekong Quilts / Ipa Nima / Tohe / Linda Mai Phung / Natural RDV / Product Simplified / Saigon Chic / Shalom Coffee / Travel Logbook / Valerie Cordier / Very Ngon / Viet Artisan

By Gemma Mullen

KIDS CORNER Overeating Dipping into a delicious dinner is one of life’s great pleasures, and one that shouldn’t be denied to our little ones either. But what should you do if your child has started polishing off more than his fair share?

Although it is easier to give your child a biscuit as a snack, rather than chopping and deseeding fruit, we all know which is the better option. More and more children are eating convenience foods instead of grains, fruits and vegetables due to our busy lives. To prevent your child from being an overeater you need to start good, healthy eating habits early.

It’s your responsibility to put these good habits in place and it is often easier than you may think. You need to set a good example for your children, so be sure to make rules for meal times and stick to them. It’s important that your child has a routine and this is especially true for meals.

Children will be less likely to overeat if they have a steady timetable for their meals and snacks, which should always come at about the same time every day.

Of course, snack time can be a difficult one to police if your child is in day care. A quick word with your childcare provider — who should be happy to work with you on this — ought to be enough to limit the sugary snacks for

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your little one.

One big mistake I see time and again is parents using food as a reward or punishment. Many parents give their children sweets if they have been good but this is not a good idea. Use stickers or other non-food rewards or, even better, a bit of good, old-fashioned praise. Also, getting your rascals in the kitchen helping you is a great idea. As a bonus, children love cooking so this is a great way to spend time together and discuss good eating habits. Furthermore, be sure to monitor portion sizes. Slowly increasing their meal sizes as they get older is a given, so there is no need to start them off with a greedy-sized plateful.

Always praise children when they make healthy food choices or for trying new foods, but do not commend them for finishing everything on their plate. I know it sounds bizarre, but giving them too much attention for cleaning their plate may make them feel like they have to eat a lot to gain your approval.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students from 2-16yrs.

Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a

high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Toyville Tel: 09 18 33 97 34 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Wide selection of branded toys and games, from the usual suspects to the real hard to find. Specialises in products for 3- to 10-year-old children.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

living

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting

By Dr Daniel Tranchant

SOS Unwanted Bedfellows Bed bugs are small insects that feed on humans, mostly at night. Although they are a significant nuisance, they are not known to spread any diseases. Infestations occur throughout the world and are increasing. The rising number is in part attributable to travellers carrying bugs from one location to another, though the bugs are also becoming more resistant to pesticides.

Bed bug eggs are tiny, white and elongated — like a grain of rice but much smaller. They are usually seen in clusters. Young bugs are light yellowy-brown, while adults are rust-coloured. The bugs can infest any home or business, no matter how clean or high quality it is. They are often found in mattresses, luggage, clothing and cracks in furniture, walls and floors.

They are easily transferred from one place to another in luggage and clothing. They cannot fly but move quickly and can squeeze into small areas. Travellers should take precautions against being bitten, as well as measures to avoid carrying the bugs from one place to another.

Bed bug bites are itchy and irritating. Bites can occur anywhere on the body, but are most common on exposed skin and may remain unseen or cause an obvious rash.

If left alone, bites usually heal within a few days with no treatment necessary. If someone scratches bites and breaks the skin, the wound

can become infected, and skin infections sometimes require antibiotic treatment.

Bed Bug Prevention for Travellers: • Bring sealable plastic bags with you, or know where to purchase some at your destination.

• Inspect your hotel room for bed bugs. Examine the furniture, head board, bed sheets and seams on the mattress and box spring. Look for bed bugs, their eggs, dark spots from their faeces and small bloodstains from crushed bugs.

• If you detect bed bugs, notify the hotel management.

Request a different room that is not adjacent to the infested one.

• Only unpack after ensuring the room is free of bed bugs.

Avoid putting your luggage on the bed or floor and use luggage racks instead. Consider encasing your luggage in a large clear plastic bag.

• If you suspect bugs have gotten into your clothing or other items, place them in a sealed plastic bag until you can wash them in hot water or dry clean.

Dr Daniel Tranchant is the chief medical officer at International SOS in Phnom Penh. asialife HCMC 67

IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

By Paul McLardie

Finance In Gold We Trust As we are all aware, the practice of using gold as a way to store wealth is still widely popular in Vietnam.

Whether by buying and collecting jewellery or even purchasing bullion, many Vietnamese prefer this method to putting cash in a bank. According to a 2012 Standard Chartered report, Vietnam was the fourth biggest gold consumer in Asia, after China, India and Thailand.

Investing in gold, however, brings up a plethora of issues: gold price speculation, the effects on the dollar-dong exchange rates, the strength of trust in the banks and, to me as an individual, where to store it. Would you feel safe with a load of gold sitting under your mattress? I know I wouldn’t.

But there is still a way to invest in gold without having to look after pounds of metal. This way also allows you to watch the daily gold prices as they change, and it gives the freedom to sell it quickly for cash without having to physically possess the gold.

Gold exchange-traded funds (GETFs) track the price of gold, but are a bit more complicated than physically owning it. The SPDR Gold Trust exchange-traded fund (GLD) is sponsored by the World Gold Council, which looks over the running of the 68 asialife HCMC

trustee, the Bank of New York Mellon. The trust attempts to match the gold price by maintaining a physical gold reserve in HSBC London.

They then issue shares on the value of the company.

That is what you would be buying. Not a chunk of gold, but shares in the trust that owns the gold. Once you have bought these shares through a registered broker, you can get them sent to you. Often, however, it is better to pay the custodian fees and let the broker hold them on your behalf. This makes it easier and faster to turn them into cash when you need it.

There are other less-popular types of ETFs with non-institutional investors, such as the futures-based GETFs and the leveraged options. These can be quite dangerous if you do not know what you are doing, so please stay away from them.

GETFs are not perfect for each individual, but if you are holding large amounts of your wealth in gold under your bed, you may want to look at a safer way of keeping it.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management.

You can contact him at paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Kiko Flame OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0902 636 950 www.ngonluakiko.com Recently established graphic design studio employing highly skilled, well disciplined artists, graphic designers and web developers. We specialize in creative design for print media and web, offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques

from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece

complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture

expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique

products.

INSURANCE

Blue Cross Vietnam 8th floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 69

www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

By Gary Woolacott

People matter Do It Right, Do It Once Many have forecasted for some time that social media will kill the recruitment market — and they have all been wrong, so far.

But it is certainly true that social media has affected our industry in some very fundamental ways. Just one example is the influence it has had on pricing.

Now that anyone can trawl through LinkedIn for names of potential candidates, they call themselves recruiters and sell their services cheaply to inexperienced HR people looking to save money. These so-called recruiters probably don’t run an office, but work from home, with low overheads. The cheap rates they offer are music to the ears of gullible HR types who think recruitment can be done properly for half or a third of what they have been paying to established agencies. The trouble is that these cheap options are just that: a cheap option that is no substitute for a proper, structured approach to a hiring issue.

Just as you wouldn’t expect a discount tailor to offer the best fabrics, the cheap recruiter isn’t going to care about the best candidate. He or she just wants the job to close so that a fee can be collected. They don’t care, and the HR people who engage them clearly don’t attach importance to that aspect of recruitment. The simple fact is that if you are paying someone a very low fee for a service, he probably is not 70 asialife HCMC

going to take the time to make sure you are getting the very best.

In our experience, most of the hires that fail come back to the fact of cultural fit (or lack of it) with the recruiting company. A failure to properly assess the candidate and the company will probably turn out badly. This has nothing to do with the person’s technical abilities — most candidates are assessed rigorously over several interviews for those — but whether the person is suited to work at that kind of company, with its particular values and ethics. Only by investing the time, money and by working with a recruitment company that assesses candidates along those lines will the hiring bosses avoid such compatibility failure.

When you hire an executive search firm on an exclusive basis, you pay for the luxury of time to be able to assess all the candidates equally and thoroughly. Our job is to save you time, hire the best person the first time and make everyone happy. Usually, I’m happy to say, we get it right.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia. net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese

cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

istration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas.

Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Admin-

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam

Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photo-

listings

fashion By Christina Yu

Fashion rules No-nos for Your Feet People often ask me who my fashion icon is. My first answer is always Diana Vreeland, the much revered, late editor of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. Her quips about fashion and lifestyle still define the industry today.

Vreeland once said, “People who eat white bread have no dreams.” I would say the same is true for men who wear white socks. If there is ONE fashion rule ALL MEN should follow it is: leave your white socks in your sports bag. “Unless you are exercising there is absolutely no appropriate moment to wear white socks,” says Alex Blimes, editor of Esquire magazine.

While white socks attract more attention due to their colour (most men wear black or brown work shoes), they are always unattractive since they are ribbed and made of bulkier material designed for sport. They also always look cheap with work clothes.

And don’t ever think you can get away with wearing white socks with Bermuda shorts and sneakers, it just looks hideous, with the word “tourist” written all over your feet.

Instead, look at patterned socks in funky colours. Not only are they trendy, but they also leave the impression that you have a wild and adventurous side waiting to be discovered.

The other big trend today is loafers with no socks. If Tods or Gucci are out of your budget, get some from 72 asialife HCMC

Geox — they look good and are very comfortable. If you are in Saigon and have a budget in between Geox and Gucci, you can try Dominic St Paul for some cool loafers.

Unless you are a teenager, leave your plastic thongs for the beach or poolside.

Some other big no-nos for your feet: the ‘alligator’ shoes — shoes that have a really long square toe that some men seem to think look swanky. For me, they are just menacing. To start with, any pretty girl will have to stand at least one foot away from you just so she doesn’t step on your toes. If you are on the short side, don’t be tempted to get platform shoes with thick rubber soles. The chunky shoes actually make you look shorter, not to mention clumsy.

A few of my girlfriends confided in me that shoes are one of the first details they look at when they meet a guy.

Everything looks good when you have a nice body, but what you wear on your feet actually defines your taste and your style. So skip your lunch, go out less if you have to, and save enough to buy yourself some nice socks and quality shoes.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ ipa-nima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and

unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688

valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

SHOES

TAILORS

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Fabric Street

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo

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Clubhouse Films Birthday Party

Liberty Central Hotel Launch

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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Oktoberfest at Windsor

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asialife HCMC 77

DISTRICT 4

radar Inspiration, in small doses

Upworthy.com There was an episode of The Daily Show this summer when black correspondent Jessica Williams defended the New York City policy that let cops stop and frisk suspicious people (usually black or Hispanic). Williams said she was standing in one of the city’s most crime-ridden neighbourhoods, and cops needed to step up the frisking. Where was she? Wall Street. She went on to point out the double standard toward white collar versus other crime.

A relatively new site, Upworthy posted the clip. The site posts similar clips that usually have a progressive bent, a taste for social justice and — most importantly — a goal to inspire. Other videos and photos on Upworthy show white people standing up against black targets of racism, and Emma Stone redirecting paparazzi attention to the Worldwide Orphans Foundation.

Don’t get duped

Newyorker.com/online/blogs/borowitzreport Remember, in August, when a billionaire accidentally bought the Washington Post for $250 million by making an online shopping error? No? That’s because Andy Borowitz made up the whole story — but that didn’t stop Chinese media from re-reporting it as fact. Yep, the Xinhua News Agency fell for the joke by Borowitz, who single-handedly gives The Onion a run for its money by turning current events into satire. A sample of blog posts: “Boehner advises Americans to delay getting cancer for a year” and “Taliban named best place to work 2013”.

At your parents’ expense

Whenparentstext.com When you need a quick chuckle, who is easier to laugh at than parents?

Users upload brief, funny conversations they have with their parents via SMS and add a title. For instance, in the post titled “It’s Our Party”, there’s just one text from someone’s dad: “Thank you for turning out to be a much better daughter than Miley Cyrus.” But with the tagline, “small keypad, old hands”, When Parents Text usually relies on parental gaffes for the butt of its jokes.

Here’s one exchange: user: “What’s for dinner”; dad: “Cascades”; user: “What the hell is a cascade”; dad: “Casadea, filled with chicken and peppers”; user: “That would be a quesadilla”.

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soundfix album review

Deltron 3030 Event II

The year is now 3040. Society has eroded, the banks are collapsing and anarchy is on the rise. But, as actor Joseph Gordon-Levitt announces in a dramatic introductory narration, here come Deltron 3030 “back from the great beyond”. It’s been 13 years since the hip-hop group’s self-titled debut, a concept album focused on an intergalactic battle set in the year 3030. The futuristic theme continues on the long-awaited sequel Event II, complete with outer space references and robotic voices. Deltron 3030 — made up of alt-rapper Del the Funky Homosapien, turntablist Kid Koala and producer Dan the Automator — isn’t as sharp today as on the cult-classic first album. Time has caught up with Deltron 3030. That doesn’t mean this isn’t an enjoyable album with great flow, relevant social critique, cheeky humour and a standout cameo by Damon Albarn (who’s worked with each of Deltron’s members on his project, Gorillaz). Event II offers enough to appreciate, no matter where you are on the time continuum.

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by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

HAIM

Days Are Gone HAIM are best known for their breakout single ‘The Wire’ but the band’s other main claim to fame is a cover of Miley Cyrus’ ‘Wrecking Ball’ for BBC Radio 1.

It’s a testament to the folk-rock trio’s ability to create music that feels both natural and enthralling. They don’t need theatrics to sell their music, although being a group of hip, long-haired sisters from Los Angeles certainly has an allure.

HAIM’s debut album Days Are Gone starts off with a hat-trick of sure-fire hits in ‘Falling’, ‘Forever’ and the memorable ‘The Wire’. Comparisons to Fleetwood Mac are inevitable, given a similar start-andstop tempo and how much lead singer Danielle Haim’s unfeminine voice recalls Stevie Nicks. But the band is quick to point out their less-obvious R&B inspiration. Music runs in the Haim family’s veins — they used to perform together, parents included — and there’s something to be said for familiarity to explain how the sisters’ respective musicality merges into a seamless whole.

Omar Souleyman

Kelela

Syria may be earning more attention for its ongoing turmoil than its cultural forms, but here is one exception. Once a farmer, Omar Souleyman started his musical career as a part-time wedding singer, garnered success in his native Syria and now draws an international following. Last year, Björk collaborated with him on a remix of one of her songs. He sings in Arabic, Kurdish and Turkish, revitalising Syrian folk music known as dabke with an electronic treatment courtesy of partner Rizan Sa’id.

Souleyman’s first studio album, Wenu Wenu, features production by dance music luminary Four Tet. The result is a frenzy of emotion, rhythm and originality.

‘Ya Yumma’ starts out with Souleyman’s murmured yalla, a common Arabic expression that means “let’s go”. And go it does, breaking midway into a transcendent keyboard solo.

Although Souleyman is nearing 50 years old, his energy feels boundless.

Whether you prefer it shaken or stirred, contemporary music is very much about a good mix.

Take Kelela Mizanekristos, who’s fusing the influences of R&B, drum & bass, jazz and dubstep to create a distinctive sound. Her debut mixtape includes a number of producers and collaborators, showcasing her ethereal yet rich vocals over inspired soundscapes.

It’s refreshing music that’s “not quite this, not quite that”.

Baltimore suburbs-born and Los Angeles-based, Kelela gives a nod to the sensual sounds of the 90s, notably Aaliyah, Brandy and TLC, but taken to a much darker level. Despite the influence of EDM, beatsper-minute are kept within the slow jam range for the most part. ‘Enemy’ is the closest thing to a club banger, with rat-a-tat synths that will stick in your head. Solange Knowles, Beyonce’s younger, cooler sister, has already recognised Kelela’s talents, including one of her tracks on her new label’s forthcoming compilation.

Wenu Wenu

Cut 4 Me

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10

this last title

artist

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

John Newman Jay Sean Justin Bieber ft Tygar Demi Lovato Miley Cyrus James Blunt The Wanted Britney Spears Karmin Avicii ft Adam Lambert & Nile Rodgers

week week

2 3 7 8 6 NEW NEW 1 RE 4

Love Me Again Where You Are Wait For A Minute Heart By Heart Wrecking Ball Bonfire Heart Show Me Love Work (Bi**h) Work Acapella Lay Me Down

Malala Yousafzai

UK Top 10

this last title week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

3 1 NEW 6 NEW 7 2 NEW 4 NEW

Counting Stars Wrecking Ball Juliet Bonfire Heart Rap God Roar Berzerk Afterglow R U Crazy Change Your Life

AUSTRALIA Top 10 this last title week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1 14 5 9 2 NEW 3 4

9 10

15 10

Roar Hey Brother Bonfire Heart You Wrecking Ball Timber Let's Get Ridiculous Pop A Bottle (Fill Me Up) Marry Me Hold On, We're Going Home

artist One Republic Miley Cyrus Lawson James Blunt Eminem Katy Perry Eminem Wilkinson Conor Maynard Iggy Azalea ft TI

artist Katy Perry Avicii James Blunt Nathaniel Miley Cyrus Pitbull Ft. Ke$ha Redfoo Jessica Mauboy Jason Derulo Drake ft Majid Jordan

By Chris Mueller

If you haven’t heard of Malala Yousafzai yet, you probably need to read more newspapers. She is the 16-year-old Pakistani girl who, at the age of 15, was shot in the head by the Taliban for speaking out in support of educating young girls in Pakistan. She survived the attack and has since become a global phenomenon.

Yousafzai began her campaign for education at 11, when she started writing a blog for BBC Urdu about her life in the Swat Valley under the Taliban. She went on to speak out freely against the Taliban’s oppression, despite threats and intimidation.

Then on one early October afternoon in 2012, a Taliban militant boarded a school bus full of young girls and asked, “Which one of you is Malala?

Speak up, otherwise I will shoot you all,” according to a Christian Science Monitor article shortly after the incident. The gunman recognised Yousafzai and shot her pointblank in the head.

She survived and now the whole world knows who Malala is. Her new autobiography, I Am Malala, co-authored with British journalist Christina Lamb, has been met with critical acclaim. And last month alone Yousafzai met with world leaders, appeared on a number of western television shows, released her book,

won the prestigious Sakharov Prize for Freedom of Thought, and was passed over for a Nobel Peace Prize.

For someone so young, outspoken, and now popular, it comes as no surprise that she has garnered her fair share of critics — and further death threats — especially back home in the Swat Valley.

“I am against Malala,” a 22-year-old trader in Swat was quoted as saying in an 11 Oct New York Times article. “The media has projected Malala as a heroine of the west. But what has she done for Swat?”

Others quoted in the article had similar comments, with some even accusing her of being a western puppet or CIA agent.

Admittedly at this point it’s difficult to differentiate between what ideas Yousafzai has conjured up herself and what her crack PR team from Edelman — the largest PR firm in the world — told her to say. Still, she deserves the attention she is getting.

There is also no denying that countless, unknown young girls are still in areas like Swat Valley standing up for what Yousafzai is campaigning for, while she enjoys the money from her multi-milliondollar book deal. But how could anything that brings attention to this issue be a bad thing?

asialife HCMC 81

boxoffice

Thor: The Dark World

Free Birds

The Hunger Games: Catching Fire

Captain Phillips

Marvel continues the big-screen adventures of Thor, the mighty Avenger and god from Asgard, as he battles to save Earth and all the Nine Realms from a shadowy enemy that predates the universe itself. As Thor fights to restore order across the cosmos, an ancient race led by the vengeful Malekith returns to plunge the universe back into darkness. Thor must embark on his most perilous and personal journey yet, one that forces him to sacrifice everything to save the universe.

Reggie (voiced by Owen Wilson) is an ordinary turkey, until one Thanksgiving when he is pardoned by the president. Unaware of the fate he’s escaped, Reggie is living large. But when he is kidnapped by Jake (voiced

by Woody Harrelson), the rebel leader of a turkey uprising, Reggie discovers a horrifying secret: turkeys aren’t honoured holiday guests, they’re tasty holiday meals! So Jake and Reggie decide to hijack a top-secret time machine and travel back to the first Thanksgiving to take themselves off the menu.

This second installment of The Hunger Games begins as Katniss returns home safe after winning the 74th Annual Hunger Games along with fellow tribute Peeta.

Winning means they must turn around and leave their family and close friends, embarking on a "Victor's Tour" of the districts.

Along the way Katniss senses a rebellion is simmering, but the Capitol is still very much in control as President Snow prepares the 75th Annual Hunger Games — a competition that could change Panem forever.

This film is a multi-layered examination of the 2009 hijacking of the US container ship Maersk Alabama by a crew of Somali pirates. It is — through director Paul Greengrass’s distinctive lens — simultaneously a pulse-pounding thriller, and a complex portrait of the myriad effects of globalisation.

The film focuses on the relationship between the Alabama’s commanding officer, Captain Richard Phillips (Tom Hanks), and the Somali pirate captain, Muse (Barkhad Abdi), who find themselves at the mercy of forces beyond their control.

Opening Dates CINEMAS Megastar Megastar.vn

Galaxy cinema Galaxycine.vn

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Thor 2 (8 Nov) Free Birds (15 Nov) Thor 2 (8 Nov) Free Birds (15 Nov) The Hunger Games (22 Nov) Captain Phillips (29 Nov)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Luminaries Eleanor Catton

Little, Brown & Company

The winner of this year’s Man Booker Prize, The Luminaries is an account of love, greed and murder set in 1860s New Zealand. The novel takes place in Hokitika, a small town caught up in the throes of a gold rush. Walter Moody, a fortuneseeking recent arrival from Scotland, finds himself amongst a group of 12 strangers discussing unsolved crimes. Modelled on Victorian fiction, the story spans numerous characters and intertwined plot lines over more than 800 pages. A triumph from author Eleanor Catton, who at 28 years old is the youngest Man Booker recipient in history.

Ninety Percent of Everything: Inside Shipping, the Invisible Industry That Puts Clothes on Your Back, Gas in Your Car, and Food on Your Plate

Rose George

Metropolitan Books

How often do you think about shipping? Although resources and products from around the world are part of our daily consumption — with oil from the Middle East and clothing from China as just two examples — we seldom ponder how these things reach us. Employing vigorous research and her experience of living on a Maersk container ship for five weeks, Rose George draws attention to the vast transport of goods across the seas. She covers fuel consumption and environmental damage, but her most compelling writing is about the people who staff the ships, facing weather threats, pirate hijackings and challenging work conditions.

The Goldfinch

The Circle

Little, Brown & Company

Knopf

Donna Tartt

Author of bestselling novels The Secret History and The Little Friend, Donna Tartt breaks an 11-year publishing hiatus with a powerful third novel. The Goldfinch is named after a work by 17th century Dutch painter Carel Fabritius. Thirteen-yearold Theo Decker is viewing the painting at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art when a bomb detonates, killing his mother and changing his life forever. In the ensuing chaos, Theo meets an injured old man who convinces him to save ‘The Goldfinch’. Narrating the following decade of Theo’s life, Tartt delivers a coming-of-age story that’s well worth the lengthy wait.

Dave Eggers Situated sometime in the near future, The Circle draws on present-day anxiety about the repercussions of technology. Desperate to start a career and pay off student loans, Mae Holland is thrilled to be offered a job at the Circle, an internet company that has amassed the powers of Google, Facebook and Amazon. The deeper Mae gets into her work, the more that notions of privacy, identity and tyranny come into question. Allusions to George Orwell’s 1984 are hard to ignore in this cautionary tale from Dave Eggers, author of A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius and What is the What.

asialife HCMC 83

ODD ONE OUT Getting attacked by a gang of monkeys leaves Dana Filek-Gibson wishing Vietnam took “safety first” a little more seriously.

What began as panic quickly becomes total hysteria, and I am convinced that I will die here, on stupid Monkey Island.

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Lush, green and incredibly lenient, Vietnam is the Land of Almost. Across the country, the floors of apartments and office buildings are almost level, restaurant dishes are almost clean and driving the wrong way down the street is almost illegal. Operating outside the confines of hard-and-fast rules, daily life here is full of maybes, sort-ofs and half-steps.

Three years in, few of these things still surprise me. On the contrary, my day is not complete without almost being on time or almost getting what I ordered for lunch. Having the flexibility to modify your expectations is a valuable life skill. But while there is some room for adjustment, I have a bone to pick with many of Vietnam's safety-related shortcomings. Nothing, after all, should be commonplace about almost experiencing a traffic accident or almost getting injured at the water park, but at one point or another it has happened to everyone.

For this same reason I should have known a placed called Monkey Island would be a mistake. If you don't know, Monkey Island is located in the heart of Can Gio, just south of Saigon. As a whole, it is merely a tourist attraction. There's a restaurant that is almost affordable and a sparsely populated museum of guns and taxidermied rodents that almost explains why anyone would choose to stick a dead animal behind glass. But the main attraction of the park is a gathering of sedate, almost-wild

monkeys. They sit in the trees or swing around on a wide dirt path, where visitors come to see the animals in their natural environment and, occasionally, to suffer at the tiny hands of the uncaged and perpetually hungry.

I drive out on a Friday afternoon, when no one else is around and the lone employee of the park is busy napping.

With no attention span for the almost-museum, I make a quick loop of the monkey-viewing area before turning back toward the parking lot, disappointed. A couple hours on the road and a full tank of gas, it turns out, have amounted to a day trip that is only almost interesting.

Until, en route back to my motorbike, a previously placid monkey leaps from the ground onto my backpack and begins eating my shirt. The park employee has long disappeared and, since I am alone, the monkey's entourage of small, furry hoodlums take full advantage of the opportunity to climb all over me and stick their tiny hands down my pockets in search of food. Terrified, I resolve to wait until either a) the monkeys realise I have no food or b) the park employee returns.

When it becomes clear that neither of these circumstances will happen any time soon, I take a step in the direction of the entrance gate, monkey still on my back, and this time the animal spits out my shirtsleeve and sticks a full set of monkey teeth near my face. What began

as panic quickly becomes total hysteria, and I am convinced that I will die here, on stupid Monkey Island, or worse, have to live the rest of my life horribly disfigured by a monkey bite to the face.

It takes a good five minutes of bloodcurdling screams, but eventually the park employee arrives, brandishing a stick as he chases the monkeys away.

For a few extra minutes, I continue to yell and hyperventilate to further my point. My legs will only go so fast as I beeline for the parking lot, just having been mauled by a gang of animals half my size, and in my wake neither the monkeys nor the park employee is apologetic. In fact, no one is: as I put more distance between me and my animal aggressors, I am laughed out of Monkey Island.

“She's afraid of them!” the park employee shouts after me, slapping his knee. At least three separate people find amusement in my trauma. All the way home, I try to recover from my hysterics, mentally adding 'disfigured by monkeys' to the list of things that have almost happened to me in this country.

I'm beginning to think that maybe, for all its wonders, this great Land of Almost could at least throw up a warning sign here and there. Safety above all is a big ask, but couldn't we at least bump it up to safety above most things?

Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.

To Walter Pearson, the journey from his home in Binh Long along National Route 13 to Ho Chi Minh City is one long drive down history lane.

On the drive from home to Ho Chi Minh City, I hardly have to think because it is all so familiar. Instead, I reflect. Invariably, as I pass each landmark, I am drawn into the rich history of this apparently mundane road.

I leave the dirt track from home and turn onto National Route 13. Soon, I am cruising at 60kph or so, leaving behind Binh Long — or as it was once known An Loc, the site of a major battle in 1972 that almost completely destroyed the town.

Before I know it, I am at Lai Khe, the one-time site of a huge American base and airstrip.

There are still some bunkers from the base left in the village.

The units that were here were part of the US Army 1st Division, called ‘the Big Red One’.

From 1965 to 1970, the Big Red One was responsible for the area astride Route 13. In late 1965 they battled with the Vietnamese forces at Bau Bang just north of their base at Lai Khe. I see the monument the Vietnamese built to the battle at a crossroads as I scoot by.

During its time in Vietnam, the division lost 6,146 killed in action, with 16,019 wounded.

Soon after Lai Khe, I reach Ben Cat. It was here that in the early 1960s the Diem regime

built a number of strategic hamlets. These were fortresslike villages built to house the local population to “protect” them from the liberation forces.

But the program was undermined from the inside by a double agent named Thao who had been appointed to run it. It was also attacked from outside by the resistance forces who mobilised the masses to destroy the much hated hamlets.

Ben Cat was also one of the northern points on the Iron Triangle, an area to the east of the Saigon River, so-called because it was a stronghold of the resistance forces.

Ben Cat fighters brag they were the first in the region to build tunnels to fight the French in 1946. The say cadres from Cu Chi went up to Ben Cat to get tips from the tunnel builders.

As I slip past the tollbooth at Middle Creek north of Thu Dau Mot, I see the Chinese cemetery on the other side of the road.

I once had the luck to call in while the local management committee was re-painting the Temple in the cemetery.

They told me there are four Chinese “ethnic groups” in the area. They have been there for generations and came from

Guangdong, Guangxi and Fujian and one other area whose name I did not recognise. The committee members are all “ethnic Chinese” but they don’t speak Chinese, although we were able to have a chat about the characters on the posts and walls.

Sometimes, on my way to town I have to go to the province capital of Dong Xoai, about 50km to the east of home. Dong Xoai was the site of a major victory in 1965 when the resistance forces destroyed a battle group from the Saigon Regime. There is an unusual monument there because it shows the name of a famous general, Hoang Cam, and is one of the few monuments that actually name a personality in the resistance forces.

I follow a road from Dong Xoai across a plateau about 100 metres above sea level and into an area of rubber plantations in eastern Binh Duong province.

The road comes out into a vast, mostly empty expanse where high-rise buildings grow out of a matrix of guttered roads, the skeleton of the new Thu Dau Mot City.

Back on Route 13 the enormous Binh Duong transmission tower dominates the high

ground. A lot of these places called “Thu” were once places where taxes were collected. The name of the person who ran the post was usually attached to the word “Thu”, hence Thu Thiem and Thu Duc. I cross the creek next to the new Happiness Hospital for Women with its plastic surgery ads on billboards outside. I am about to enter the city. Drivers claim this is where the rain starts. I have done this trip countless times and in the wet season I think they are right.

Somewhere over my left shoulder is Di An, once the headquarters of the US Army 1st Division. Now it is the home of the Vietnamese 4th Army, whose founding general was Hoang Cam, the man whose name is inscribed on the Dong Xoai monument.

The Bitexco Tower sits on the skyline in front of me. My trip is almost over. My mind is still alive with stories I have been reflecting on. But my wits are concentrating on the traffic in the thanh pho.

Walter Pearson is an Australian expat, tour guide, former journalist and war veteran. He lives with his family in the small town of Binh Long. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz Tom 1. Michael Crawford played the title role in which Andrew Lloyd Webber musical?

2. Which American anti-slavery novel was written by Harriet Beecher Stowe in 1852?

3. What is also known as a love apple?

4. On what river does Washington DC stand?

5. What name is given to the scientific study of insects?

Dic 6. Which parliament is known in English as the Althing?

7. Who created the characters Abel Magwitch, Daniel Quilp, Wackford Squeers and Uriah Heep?

8. What does a lexicographer write or make?

9. Elizabeth Darcy (née Bennet) is the protagonist of which novel?

10. What name is given to the most used table of the elements?

Ari 11. Who was the first man in outer space?

12. The FIFA Puskás Award is an award for the "most beautiful" goal of the year. What nationality was Puskás, the man it is named after?

13. The popularity of which poem gave the English language the phrase "albatross around one's neck"?

14. Where, according to his book, was George Orwell “down and out”?

15. The imprisonment of Nick Leeson followed the collapse of which bank?

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population?

19. Who officially opened the 1936 Olympiad?

20. What traditionally opens on 12 Aug, ‘the Glorious Twelfth’?

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Close 21. Which film tells the story of Roy Neary, an everyday blue collar worker in Indiana, played by Richard Dreyfus?

22. In British soap operas, in which city is Brookside Close?

23. Which prison closed on 21 March 1963?

24. Who played the film character Alex Forrest?

25. Which novel opens and closes with the letters of Robert Walton?

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Pub Quiz Answers

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1) Phantom of the Opera 2) Uncle Tom’s Cabin 3) Tomato 4) Potomac River 5) Entomology 6) Icelandic 7) Dickens 8) Dictionaries 9) Pride and Prejudice 10) Periodic table 11) Yuri Gagarin 12) Hungarian 13) The Rime of the Ancient Mariner 14) In Paris and London 15) Barings 16) US Open 17) Open All Hours 18) Copenhagen 19) Adolf Hitler 20) The Grouse Shooting Season 21) Close Encounters of the Third Kind 22) Liverpool 23) Alcatraz 24) Glenn Close 25) Frankenstein 26) Angelina Jolie 27) Orlando Bloom 28) Liv Tyler 29) Jude Law 30) Penelope Cruz

16. At which competition was Andy Murray’s first tennis Grand Slam victory?

17. Which British sitcom starred Ronnie Barker as David Jason’s uncle?

18. Which Scandinavian capital city has the smallest

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