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A truly international learning environment with 50 nationalities represented and the only school in Ho Chi Minh City fully accredited to teach all 3 IB programmes for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.
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AsiaLIFE volume 67
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22 front
06 News & Events 12 Dispatches
food
40 Sterling's Saigon Big Man, big cheese, big sauce
41 ZanZBar
13 Street Smart: Le Loi
An expat favourite in a new location
16 Q&A With Saigoneer
42 Gao Vietnamese rice
18 Photo Essay: Saigon Artbook
43 The Hungry Pig Bacon, bacon, bacon
cover story storyboard
22 A Fine Line Alternative medicine: helping or hurting?
style & design
44 Behind the Design: Blackmarket No3 An indie fashion shop
46 Fashion by Ipa-Nima
28 Girls with Boards Saigon longboarding crew
30 Scumptuous Saliva The impact of edible bird's nest
32 Shades of Green Is green building possible in Vietnam?
34 Brewing up Change
back
50 The List 78 Spotlight 80 Street Guide
A cafe with a vision
88 Odd One Out Who loves short shorts?
89 This Country Life
getaways
Simplicity 101
36 The Best Laid Plans
90 Pub Quiz
Easy travel tips
38 All About the Snow Skiing in Japan
44 Cover Art Direction Sarah Joanne Smith Photography Lee Starnes Model Trevor Edmunds
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note from the editor Group director sales and marketing / director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Managing editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com Deputy editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialifemagazine.com Contributing editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialifemagazine.com Editorial intern: Ruben Luong
Chris Mueller The only time I've used any form of alternative medicine was in grade school. As the ever-studious pupil, I was falling asleep in math class when I panicked and whipped my head up in an attempt to act natural. But all hope of going unnoticed was lost when I pinched a nerve and began screaming in agony. I spent the rest of that embarrassing day in school walking around in pain with my head tilted at a 90-degree angle. Later that afternoon, I visited a chiropractor. As I lay face down on his table, he twisted, cracked and popped my neck until the pain went away. That was the last time I would ever encounter alternative medicine — that is until I got fed up with doctors in Saigon. Over the past four years here, I have developed a pretty severe case of hypochondria. Every little health problem turns into a serious concern — a sore back means I have cancer, while a slight fever means I definitely have malaria. For someone with my ‘condition’, life as an uninsured expat in Vietnam can be stressful, not to mention expensive. It’s no wonder so many locals turn to traditional or alternative medicine when the only options are pricey conventional doctors or quacks who prescribe huge bags filled with assorted antibiotics and random pills. So it was on another one of these panicky nights that I diagnosed myself with a torn rotator cuff and started looking into treatments available in Saigon. I knew Chinese acupuncture was popular here, but what I didn’t know was that there is a pretty big range of alternative treatments available in Vietnam; everything from osteopathy to more holistic approaches for the spiritually inclined. What I also found was that the world medical community is hugely divided about the practical uses of these treatments. Studies have been published supporting and attacking both sides, claiming one is quackery while the other is only a profit-driven business. With this month’s cover story, we take a look at some of those issues as well as speak to some alternative practitioners in Saigon to find out exactly what is available here. Unfortunately for people like me, both conventional and alternative medicine have their problems and merits. This means us hypochondriacs in Saigon will have an even harder time deciding what to do when we’re pretty sure we have cancer — for the 12th time.
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Art director: Sarah Joanne Smith sarah@asialifemagazine.com Photo editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifemagazine.com Staff photographer: Lee Starnes Production manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com
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NEWS Craft Beer and Cider
Tired of the ubiquitous lagers at every bar in Saigon? Then check out Zebrafish, a new craft beer and cider shop in District 2. The shop, which opened last month, has a selection of over 30 different types and brands of beer and cider from around the world. And every second Wednesday of the month, Zebrafish will offer a beer and cider tasting event designed to help educate interested drinkers about craft beer. Until 31 Oct, the shop is offering a rewards program where customers can receive one free craft beer for every 10 purchased of equal value — a great way to try out the selection. Customers can drink their brews at the shop, take them away, or get them delivered. Zebrafish is located at 25 Thao Dien Street, D2. Zebrafish.com.vn.
Seduction, Betrayal, Revenge
Dangerous Liaisons is the lusty tale of seduction, betrayal and revenge set in the morally corrupt, high society world of pre-revolutionary France. Two aristocrats, who play the game of love without caring about the
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EVENTS people they use in the process, encounter dramatic results when one of them falls in love. Dragonfly Theatre are proud to bring this guilty pleasure to Saigon, introducing characters who are as cultivated, discerning and daring as their audience. Tickets for VND 250,000 (including a San Miguel draft beer) are at Keewi.me. The show runs 11, 12, 18 and 19 Oct at 8pm at Q4 event space, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh street, D4.
Retail and Franchise Fair Department stores, business owners, investors and others are coming together for the fifth Vietnam International Retail and Franchise Show. Themed “The Secret of Making Money”, the show features hundreds of exhibitions, plus presentations, competitions, and consultations on succeeding in the Vietnamese market. Organised by several Korean business associations, the event is the biggest of its kind in Vietnam and attracts thousands of buyers from dozens of countries. The trade show is happening 31 Oct-2 Nov at the Saigon Exhibition &
Convention Center, 799 Nguyen Van Linh street, D7. To sponsor a booth, go to Vietrf.com.
Turkey and Art
A semi-formal evening to celebrate Canadian Thanksgiving will include not just turkey and fixings but this year, an auction of student artwork. Supported by international schools in the city, the exhibit will raise money for organisations in the Canadian Chamber of Commerce’s corporate social responsibility program. Tickets are VND 1.2 million, or VND 500,000 for children 5-12 years old, and free for those younger. A table of 10 is VND 11 million. To join the dinner, 6pm 14 Oct at the Lotte Legend Saigon Hotel, email hcmc@canchamvietnam.org or call 08 38 24 37 54.
Running in Red
Saigon Hash House Harriers will be holding their annual Red Dress Run for charity on 20 Oct where all women, men, children and dogs are required to wear a Red Dress based on a global tradition held annually by hash chapters all over the world from 1988. As usual the hash will
balance running and walking trails with drinking beer plus the addition of wearing red dresses and raising money for charity. All proceeds will go to Operation Smile. If you would like to participate and see further details, sign up at Saigonhash.com.
Mega Music
Indochina’s biggest and longest-running international music festival is returning to a green space in the centre of Hanoi for the seventh time this October. This time the lineup is bigger than ever. The event will see 12 acts on the main stage with performers from Australia, India, Germany, Singapore and Brazil playing alongside some of Vietnam’s best artists. The music policy at CAMA has always been eclectic and this year will be no different with indie, reggae, rock, folk, punk, metal and electro already confirmed. Cama Festival 7 will be held on 12 Oct from 1pm to 11pm at the American Club, 19-21, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Tickets are VND 350,000 at the door and VND 300,000 in advance. For the full lineup, ticket locations and more details, visit Camafestival.com.
A Charity Evening at the Orchestra
Kids First Enterprise will present the sixth annual “Arts For Mobility� art exhibition and concert on 16 Nov. The concert will feature the Duet, Vietnamese classical pianist Trang Trinh and South Korean tenor, Park Sung Minh. The proceeds from this quality evening of art and music entertainment will go towards state-of-the-art wheelchairs for people with disabilities. The concert will be held on 16 Nov, at the HCMC Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1. There will be an art exhibition and silent auction from 6-7.30pm and the concert will be from 7.309.30pm. Tickets are VND 500,000 and include wine, tea, beer and hors d'oeuvres. Contact Roger Ferrell at rogerf@seanet. com or 09 03 36 57 20 for tickets or information.
Property Players
The Vietnam Real Estate Market Symposium brings together influential players and service providers from all property sectors. Experts will offer insight into finance, investments and key trends in real estate in Vietnam. Tickets start at VND 1,890,000 for the event, 8am 10 Oct at Park Hyatt. Contact events1@auschamvn.org or 08 38 32 99 12.
The Warehouse Expands
The Warehouse, a popular wine importer and retailer, is celebrating its 10-year anniversary in Vietnam by expanding further
throughout the country. The shop has recently opened two new flagship stores, one in Ho Chi Minh City and another in Hanoi. The new shop in Saigon replaces the older shop on Pasteur Street, and is now located at 15/5 Le Thanh Ton Street in District 1. The store is fully climate controlled to ensure the wine is stored in peak conditions. Later this year, the Warehouse will also open a store in Da Nang. The Warehouse is the exclusive distributor of more than 800 wines from 14 countries. Warehouse-asia.com. asialife HCMC 9
Burning Art
Opening 3 Oct at CT Gallery and running through 23 Oct will be a solo exhibition of Bui Tien Tuan’s ink and watercolour on do paper on canvas. Do paper resembles papyrus, of the sort used for calligraphy art. The show title is 'Do nhu Gio', likening do paper to the wind. The collection presents curvy, nearlynude women, some of them loosely bound up. Then, from 25 Oct to 25 Nov, the gallery will shift to Ngo Van Sac’s works, titled 'Giua Doi', meaning 'In the Midst of Life'. Winner of the 2012 Dogma prize for self-portraiture, Sac uses a unique burning technique on raw pine to create portraits and tell stories of life in his native Hanoi. CT Gallery, located at 27i Tran Nhat Duat Street, D1, is open noon-6pm Tues-Sat and 1-5pm Sun. More at Cthomasgallery.com.
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Pinktober
Show your commitment to fighting breast cancer by celebrating 'Pinktober', an initiative through Hard Rock locations worldwide. To raise awareness and funds for research, the branch in Ho Chi Minh City will sell Pinktober grey T-shirts and organise charity events. Other 2013 limited edition merch, such as collectible Pinktober pins and key chains, is available at Hardrock.com. Proceeds go to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, the Caron Keating Foundation, and select local charities throughout the world. Elsewhere events feature celebrities like Pinktober artist ambassador, Hayley Williams, of the band Paramore, who is sporting a hand-dyed pink classic Tee. More at Hardrockcafe.vn or 08 62 91 75 95.
www.bisvietnam.com
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dispatches
Travel news from around the region and beyond
Slow Down and See a Temple Lao Plaza Hotel boasts Vientiane’s first fine Japanese restaurant, an outdoor Terrace cafe and an eatery to try Laotian as well as other Asian and western fare. Tall windows help to brightly light the lobby, while simple and chic furnishings welcome guests into their rooms. Expect a more leisurely pace in Laos, where there are fewer people in the whole country than there are living in Ho Chi Minh City. The hotel now has rooms starting at $150 a night for those who book online. The price tag includes a daily buffet breakfast, shuttle service to and from the airport, a welcome drink, a fruit basket, checkout at 2pm, and access to the gym, pool and sauna. Laoplazahotel.com.
Boracay Resort and Spa Try a beach where the water stays shallow as far as the eye can see. Boracay island in the Philippines offers a day in the ocean that inexperienced swimmers and children alike can enjoy safely. And for the next two months, the local Shangri-la is discounting 15 percent off rooms when booked 45 days in advance. The offer includes buffet breakfast at Vintana for two adults and two children below 12 years old, round-trip land and speedboat transfers via Caticlan and best of all, use of non-motorised watersports facilities. Shangri-la. com/boracay.
Jogging in Jakarta As the fourth biggest country on the planet, Indonesia has been a rising power for years. Now it’ll have a world-class marathon to match. Officially the Jakarta Marathon is the first in the capital, passing through such landmarks as the National Monument or Monas, the Istiqlal Mosque across from the Cathedral, the Old Town Area and the Hotel Indonesia Roundabout. The six categories are full and half marathons, 10k, 5k, wheelchair, and children’s sprint. An art and culture festival will highlight music and people from all over the country, while a sports expo will host a fashion show of athletic apparel and Indonesian food. Sign up for the $60 marathon on 27 Oct at Thejakartamarathon.com.
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street smart:
le loi
As one of the streets every visitor to Ho Chi Minh City will likely walk down, Le Loi has gained a reputation for being a place for tourists. But among the touts and souvenir shops, Ruben Luong discovers some spots well worth visiting.
Flanked by historic landmarks, Le Loi understandably continues to be a commercial avenue for visitors roaming the city centre. On the left side as you leave Ben Thanh Market, tourist commodity shops are sardined along the street, crammed with aisles of knick-knacks, jade figurines, Saigonbranded merchandise, and gold jewelry. On the right, Saigon Centre and Saigon Square
are congested destinations for clothing and accessories. Small businesses continue to pop up and contribute to the tourist landscape, laced with cool cafes and food chains that serve as quiet resting stops from the commotion of Le Loi. Despite the transient vibe, there are still some shops for those of us who are settling in for the long haul.
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Achaya Café 90 Le Loi The host outside Achaya Café greets passersby with enthusiastic Japanese salutations, escorting guests to sit at one of the cosy tables inside the open entrance. The two-storey eatery is deceptively small and narrow, with sleek, minimal décor delicately arranged in a manner only contemporary Japanese interiors seem to truly master. The tables near the entrance are a prime spot for people watching. The upstairs is dim and serene, home to a set of elegant booths lining the left wall for intimate meals. Treat yourself to a brisk glass of the cafe’s signature iced maacha tea (VND 70,000), also available as a float (VND 80,000) or ice-blended (VND 85,000). Achaya's fusion menu boasts hearty lunch sets that range from VND 50,000-VND 170,000, including a US-beef hamburger steak for only VND 120,000. If you’re not that hungry, try the tofu cheese (VND 105,000), or sweet potato fries (VND 60,000). Auntie Anne’s 36 Le Loi Some might be initially surprised to see American pretzel chain Auntie Anne’s on Le Loi. But the Pennsylvania-based pretzelmonger has been dishing out their dough since 1988 and now has more than 1,400 locations in over 25 countries. The company plans to open 30 units over the next eight years throughout Vietnam. The shop on Le Loi is one of four new locations so far. Inside, there is a variety of sweet and savoury pretzels, such as almond, raisin (both VND 36,000), and pepperoni-encrusted pretzels that pair best with traditional dips like cheese or marinara (VND 14 asialife HCMC
18,000 each). Wash down your pretzel with a cup of golden peach Dutch ice (VND 30,000). Also, don't miss the signs for the monthly promotions. L'Usine 70b Le Loi L'Usine's second outpost on Le Loi is nearing its one-year anniversary, but somehow the location still feels new. At times, it seems it is less frequented than the original flagship boutique ensconced within Dong Khoi Street. On Le Loi, the trendy cafe's small exterior is easy to miss while walking. Entering the space is a stark contrast from the street clutter. The lower-level shop is impeccably merchandised, featuring the same flagship brands, but offering slightly different selections of stock. It is still the only place to get your hands on a quality Moleskine journal (VND 550,000-VND 850,000), which makes a great gift for any occasion. Afterwards, ascend the grand staircase to the cafe, which offers considerably more table space for young professionals in need of a venue for meetings. For inspiring, independent work sessions, there's an outdoor terrace with tables overlooking all of Le Loi. Mekong Quilts 68 Le Loi Stationed above a jewelry shop, Mekong Quilts is full of traditional household and gift items made from silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth, all sold for a good cause. The shop operates under Mekong Creations, a non-profit organisation that generates work for low-income people by employing them to create high-quality handicraft products using sustainable
materials. Products at Mekong Quilts come from more than 300 women employed in rural districts in Vietnam and Cambodia. About half of every VND 20,000 spent in the shop returns to the villages. Bowls, dishes, and colourful patchwork quilts range anywhere from about VND 50,000 to VND 400,000. The shop also produces bikes constructed with bamboo from the forests of Tanh Linh, where a team works an average of
50 hours to make a bike (VND 3,600,000-VND 8,700,000). If you’re curious, expats and tourists can inquire about the shop’s free bamboo bike rental offer, a unique way to explore the city.
Get directions
Elegant surroundings, great location, professional service and finest cuisine. All you can find at Norfolk Hotel. 117 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 - Email: info@norfolkhotel.com.vn - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group
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Saigoneer Brian Letwin (right) and Alberto Prieto (left), the brains behind Saigoneer, a website focussing on all things Saigon, discuss how their six-month-old site started from a coincidence and has steadily grown to become a local source to be reckoned with. By Chris Mueller. Photo by Lee Starnes.
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How did Saigoneer start? Letwin: It started because I had way too much free time on my hands. I’m from New York, where there are a lot of locally focused news aggregators, and I saw a need for that here. Originally I was going to start it as a blog, but as I started talking to people it became apparent that it could be something bigger. I had known Alberto for about a year at that point and unbeknownst to myself, he had registered a website called Saigoneers. So independently I had Saigoneer and he had Saigoneers and we melded the two together. Our skills complemented each other perfectly, because he’s a tech guy and I’m a content guy. Basically, every point where I was weak, he was strong, and vice versa. Who is a Saigoneer? Prieto: Everyone who lives in this city and is interested in the background and the culture is a Saigoneer. We are just two more [Saigoneers] who are trying to shed some light on Saigon What is your goal with Saigoneer? Prieto: To tell cool and interesting stories about Saigon. For me it’s also about telling people what is going on, where to go, and interesting events. With our original content, what makes us different than others is that we try to have a voice in the articles. We try to keep the authors’ opinions. Letwin: We really wanted to position ourselves not as an expat website — it is by default because it’s in English and a lot of the content is going to be interesting to expats — but it’s more about exploring the city. In Saigon, there is so little information, especially in English. What does exist is in Vietnamese and French, and even then it’s hardly comprehensive. So that’s part of it, too. It’s telling these stories that you have to dig for, to get a better context for the city that we live in Prieto: We get a lot of feedback from
readers, even from local people, who say we are talking about things they didn’t know. That is great motivation for us going forward. Right now we are digging through history and telling stories. In the future, we want to promote the culture scene and events too.
Letwin: The news is about 30 percent, history and in-depth articles are about 30 or 40 percent and the rest comes from our arts and culture editor and food and beverage editor. News aggregation is definitely going to stay part of the mix, but we’re trying to make it less as time goes on.
Letwin: It’s not about making a profit-generating thing. It is important that it makes money so we can make it better, but the goal here is not too make a lot of money.
Some argue aggregators piggyback off of traditional news sites or even steal their web traffic. How do you see it?
Prieto: It’s more romantic. It’s about the love of Saigon. Right now you are relying on unpaid contributions, who is submitting articles? Letwin: He’s Spanish and I’m American, so we can write about cool things, but at the same time we’re limited in scope. We don’t want to write stuff that we’re not comfortable writing about, so we rely on other contributors and friends and connections to write about their expertise. The contributions are getting stronger and stronger. We’re happy to be getting a lot of Vietnamese authors and I’m surprised by how solid their writing is. The ideas are really strong. Doesn’t the name Saigoneer limit you to Ho Chi Minh City? Letwin: The scale of the site is Asia. That’s as macro as it goes. It goes Saigon, Vietnam, Asia. Let’s face it, there’s a lot of hilarious shit that comes out of North Korea and China and Japan. So I want to be able to cover that stuff. Asian culture hops from country to country. Something may be hot right now in Japan, and it might be here in two months or two years. Plus, with Vietnam in general there is so much connectivity to other countries. Here the connectivity between all the countries and cultures is so intertwined, and it’s fun to look at that. Right now you are mainly doing news aggregation?
Letwin: As long as you backlink to the source and make it really clear that you didn’t write this on your own, internet people are really happy to get the traffic from our site. Initially I reached out to a lot of local sites to let them know we are using their stuff. If we had a full-time staff, then we would do more original content. How can Saigoneer succeed where local and expat print publications have not? Letwin: The first thing is timeliness. We don’t rely on a monthly schedule. If something happens an hour before, we can write about it right after and not wait to print. Two, it’s open. We want to have a lot of different voices. We want Vietnamese writers, we want people to write in their own style. We don’t give directions, we tell people to do it the way they want to do it. The value is in the multitude of voices. That’s something that’s special. We’re not limited by space as well. We have complete flexibility.
"Asian culture hops from country to country. Something may be hot right now in Japan, and it might be here in two months or two years." Brian Letwin, Saigoneer cofounder
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Saigon Artbook aims to bring art closer to everyone. The book will be published four times a year and feature work from three artists living in the Ho Chi Minh City area. With each edition, Saigon Artbook hosts a release party where guests can meet the artists and other art patrons, as well as receive their own free copy of the book. The first book will be released at a party on 17 Oct from 6-11pm at La Brasserie de Saigon, 38 Dong Du Street, District 1. This edition will showcase artwork from Truc-Anh, Ayano Otani and Sandrine Llouquet. Free food and a welcome drink will be served while guests view the pieces. If you’d like to attend, register at Saigonartbook.com.
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A Fine Line alternative medicine: helping or hurting?
While some forms of alternative medicine have been available in Vietnam for thousands of years, it hasn’t been until relatively recently that newer treatments popularised in the west have been imported. This has left some wondering whether it is a legitimate answer to the frequent over-medication by doctors in Vietnam — and if we really should use treatments that are so controversial. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Lee Starnes.
The popularity of alternative medicine in the west has skyrocketed. In the United States, 40 percent of adults use some sort of alternative medicine. The wide green doors of the Tran Thai Duong clinic open to a sparsely furnished waiting room. The walls of the room are plastered with posters depicting skeletons, muscle structure and meridian lines. At the back of the room, a squat old Vietnamese man tends to his patient, removing needles from packs and carefully sticking them into the other man’s half-naked body. This small shop off of Pham Van Hai Street near the airport in Tan Binh District is one of hundreds of modest acupuncture shops in Ho Chi Minh City. On this drizzly afternoon, about 10 people patiently wait for their procedures. One patient named An, talks to me through broken English and Vietnamese. He says he comes to the clinic at least twice a month for his treatments, adding that it helps him relax. When I ask him how acupuncture works, he says, “I don’t know, but I do it all my life.” An certainly isn’t the only one in Vietnam to rely heavily on acupuncture. This form of alternative medicine, cham cuu in Vietnamese, is hugely popular around the country. Originating in China, with the first written records of acupuncture dating back to the first century BCE, it didn’t take long before it crossed into Vietnam. Now small shops and larger clinics can be found throughout the country, especially in areas with a large Chinese population like in District 5. For Vietnamese, acupuncture has both the benefit of being cheap, non-invasive, and a time-tested practice. Tran Huong, an acupuncturist in Hanoi, has been working in the field for over 30 years. She has become so well known that even westerners fly in to be treated by her. She is also one of the most popular acupuncturists in the capital, seeing 20 to 30 patients a day. Before becoming a professional acupuncturist, Huong says she studied conventional medicine in France where she got a master’s degree. But to her, acupuncture had always been more appealing. “It’s much more of an experience, more harmonizing,” she tells me by phone from Hanoi. While her clients range from wealthy 24 asialife HCMC
“I don’t think there is any such thing as alternative medicine. If an alternative medicine works, then it’s medicine. If an alternative medicine doesn’t work, then it’s not an alternative.” Dr Paul Offit Europeans to working-class Vietnamese, most come to her for the same reasons. “When I stimulate the body with acupuncture, the body releases endorphins,” she says. “People come to me to have me treat pain, stress relief, and headaches.” But it’s not just acupuncture that is popular in Vietnam. Vietnamese have practiced traditional medicine for centuries, using herbs and controversial remedies — many of which have been scientifically discredited — made from various animal parts. This traditional medicine is actually considered mainstream in Vietnam. However, there is a growing interest in newer forms of alternative medicine, mainly imported by westerners. Despite a lot of negative publicity, the popularity of alternative medicine in the west has skyrocketed. In the United States, 40 percent of adults use some sort of alternative medicine, according to the National Centre for Complimentary and Alternative Medicine. And this popularity seems to be spreading. Now, in Saigon alone, practioners of everything from chiropractic, osteopathy to reiki and homeopathy have set up shop in the city. But with so much debate
about the validity of alternative medicine, are these treatments a viable option for expats? “I don’t think there is any such thing as alternative medicine,” says Dr Paul Offit, the chief of the Division of Infectious Diseases and the director of the Vaccine Education Centre at the Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia. “If an alternative medicine works, then it’s medicine. If an alternative medicine doesn’t work, then it’s not an alternative.” Offit is the author of Do You Believe in Magic?, which takes aim at the $34billion alternative medicine industry and debunks some of the myths surrounding it. He argues in his book that celebrity endorsements and marketing is largely to blame for the explosion of alternative medicine in the west. “I think there is a sense that our technology hasn’t helped us, that it has taken us farther and farther away from nature and that has hurt our spirituality, if you will,” he says in a Skype interview. “Here you have this back-to-nature thing, which I think includes getting back to those things we did a couple thousand years ago when we were all dying by the age of 30.”
The main problem with alternative medicine, Offit argues, is that people too often use it when more conventional medicine is needed and is more likely to cure the patient. “Steve Jobs is the poster-boy for that,” Offit says. “He had a type of pancreatic cancer that was quite treatable, but he chose acupuncture and bowel cleansing and fruit juices and vegetable juices. And by the time he finally had the surgery that could have saved his life earlier, he was too late.” Offit’s concerns do seem to be well founded, and most responsible practitioners of alternative medicine even agree. “I prefer [patients] go see a doctor first,” says Nicolas Dupaux, a French osteopath at Centre Medical International in District 1, “because you never know what’s behind the back pain. I’ve had patients come in with chronic pain, we did an MRI and found bone cancer.” Osteopathy is based on the belief that most diseases are related to problems with the nerve, muscle and bone systems and that the structure and function of the body are related. It involves using manual therapy to manipulate the structure of asialife HCMC 25
“Today, the whole medical system is based on money. It is not about healing people, it is more about business.� Nicolas Dupaux, an osteopath in Ho Chi Minh City
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the body to restore a state of balance and harmony. Wade Brakenbury of the American Chiropractic Clinic in District 3 says in his experience both conventional doctors and alternative practioners need to work well with each other. If one form of medicine doesn’t work, then the other form should always be considered. “I work a lot with medical doctors, high-end doctors,” Brackenbury, who is also a trained acupuncturist, says. “I believe in medicine. I think conventional medicine is great, but alternative medicine does a lot for improved health.” Dupaux says there is no doubt conventional medicine plays an important role in health, and agrees alternative medicine can be dangerous if performed by an untrained practioner. He says he often treats damage done to patients by local masseuses who have little knowledge of the body. But at the same time, he believes many opponents of alternative and complementary medicine are too quick to judge its usefulness. “What is real medicine?” he says. “Today’s science has proven a lot already, but if you look at using non-conventional medicine, there are a lot of patients with amazing results. The reality is that you have good doctors and bad doctors and good osteopaths and bad osteopaths.” Dupaux also takes the opposite stance to Offit when it comes to alternative medicine’s popularity versus conventional medicine’s proven track record. While Offit blames marketing and celebrity endorsements for the unchecked growth of alternative medicine, Dupaux blames the medical industry and the $300-billion-a-year pharmaceutical industry for tainting non-traditional
treatments. “Today, the whole medical system is based on money,” he says. “It is not about healing people, it is more about business.” But what exactly do things like chiropractic, acupuncture and osteopathy do for improved health? Some studies show people can learn to stimulate their immune systems through alternative treatments. And Offit believes
“I believe in medicine. I think conventional medicine is great, but alternative medicine does a lot for improved health.” Wade Brakenbury, chiropractic in Ho Chi Minh City this is largely due to a placebo effect. “The placebo response is very real and physiological based,” he says. While alternative treatments like chiropractic and osteopathy do seem to at least have enough positive results to justify their practices, what about more dubious forms of alternative medicine like reiki or homeopathy? “Things like reiki fall into a category that I think is disrespected in both fields,” Brackenbury says. “But that
doesn’t mean it is useless.” Reiki is a traditional Japanese treatment developed in the 1920s. Reiki healers claim everyone has unseen life force energies and the healer uses their palms to transfer this energy between healer and patient. Most reiki advocates say the technique can easily be learned by anyone. “You need to be open to reiki to benefit from it,” says Sarah Martin, an Australian-trained massage therapist who has been practicing reiki, among other things, out of her home in District 2 for the past six years. “It is just a way for people to cope with things rather than seeing a doctor or therapist.” Surprisingly, Dr Offit does see some use for things like reiki. Studies have shown that alternative healing, like reiki, can greatly reduce stress and, in turn, improve the immune system. “I think you can argue that yoga and mediation — anything that reduces stress — is good medicine,” he says. Once again, the problems arise when a line is crossed and these therapies that have no scientific basis are used in place of conventional medicine. In the end, Offit and alternative medicine practioners like Brackenbury and Dupaux agree that there is a place for both forms of treatment, but they should be used in tandem, and only when they are appropriate. “As consumers, we have certain responsibilities,” Offit wrote in his book. “If we’re going to make decisions about our health, we need to make sure we’re not influenced by the wrong things — specifically, that we don’t give alternative medicine a free pass because we’re fed up with conventional medicine.” asialife HCMC 27
Celine Crouzat, a member of Longboard Girls Crew Vietnam, and Anna-Selina Kager (opposite page), the group's founder.
girls with
BOARDS The Longboard Girls Crew Vietnam is a new arrival to Saigon’s small sports scene. Michael Tatarski speaks to the people behind this recent creation. Photos by Lee Starnes.
L
ocals and expats alike love to bemoan Saigon’s lack of green space and athletic outlets. While these complaints are often well-founded, the city is also home to a diverse array of groups catering to adrenaline junkies and adventurous types. A recent addition to this scene is the Longboard Girls Crew Vietnam. LGC Vietnam is an offshoot of the international group, formed in Madrid in 2010. LGC was created when the founders became “tired of being the only girls in mostly boy’s crews”, according to its website. They arranged gatherings on Facebook, and word spread quickly. Today, LGC is one of the biggest longboard movements in the world, recognised in more than 180 countries and with ambassadors in more than 40 nations. Despite its name, anyone can join LGC Vietnam. In fact, the crew actually has more guys than girls, says Anna-Selina Kager, founder of LGC Vietnam. Unfamiliar with the sport, I asked Kager for some background on longboarding. For the uninitiated like myself, a longboard is something like an elongated skateboard, though the frame, wheels and trucks are much more flexible. There are five longboard disciplines: slalom, downhill, freestyle, push races and dancing. Kager tells me she first got into longboarding a couple of years ago while in university in the Netherlands. “I started working with some people involved with the biggest distribution shop in the country and started skating with them,” she says. Kager helped create LGC branches in the Netherlands and her native Austria before moving to Vietnam for work. Initially based in Hanoi, Kager was surprised to find a fairly vibrant longboarding community there. “Longboarding is really rare here, there are no shops in the entire country, but we somehow found each other. We started meeting up every weekend and we formed a group of 35 people,”
she says. The majority of this group was Vietnamese, an even bigger surprise. Kager can only guess as to why longboarding was more wellknown up north, but she thinks location may play a role. “My Vietnamese friends in Hanoi got their boards from China,” she says. “Since they are closer to the border, maybe that’s why it is more popular.” After moving to Saigon a few months ago, Kager decided to try forming an LGC group here. She received a go-ahead from one of the heads of the international group, and in July, LGC Vietnam was born. Unsurprisingly, the group is experiencing some growing pains. The lack of longboarding shops is one challenge. “There are big communities in Indonesia, Singapore, the Philippines and Malaysia, so we can go to these countries to get gear,” Kager says. This isn’t the same as having equipment available in Vietnam, and one of the group’s goals at the moment is to get gear in the country. Finding places to skate is another issue. “We skate mainly at Saigon Outcast, and sometimes at 23/9 Park,” Kager says. The biggest priority right now, though, is finding more members. Most of the people involved in LGC Vietnam are skateboarders, since longboarding is very new to the city. Kager is also working hard to bring locals into the group. “I have a Vietnamese assistant, and our focus is to integrate more Vietnamese into the group … but most girls here are either too shy or they don’t think it’s girly enough. It’s a cultural thing.” Kager’s main local assistant, who goes by Bros, is illustrative of most of the group’s current members. “I’m totally new to longboarding,” Bros says. “I started skateboarding when I was around 14.” But after meeting Kager a few weeks ago, Bros became interested
in longboarding and decided to help out. “Right now we’re trying to make more people know about it … by creating more events and skate sessions, promoting our pages for Vietnamese skaters, and letting them know more about the differences between skateboarding and longboarding,” she says. Despite longboarding’s relative obscurity here, and the lack of access to equipment, both Kager and Bros are optimistic. There is a lot going on in other countries in the region, so it may only be a matter of time before Vietnam catches on. “My friends in Thailand and the Philippines are already trying to create regional events. I went to a downhill event in Thailand and there were girls from around the area,” Kager says. For her part, Bros believes young Vietnamese will pick up longboarding, as they have with so many other outside influences. “I think since Vietnamese skaters are really open to skating and willing to try new things, our job isn’t going to be very hard.” To contact LGC Vietnam, visit Facebook.com/lgcvietnam. The group tries to meet every weekend, depending on the weather
“Most girls here are either too shy or they don’t think it’s girly enough. It’s a cultural thing.” Anna-Selina Kager, founder of LGC Vietnam
sumptuous Consumers’ growing taste for nests made from swiftlet spittle gives ‘birdhouse’ a whole new meaning, but could it mean lasting damage to Vietnam’s ecosystem? By Lien Hoang. Photo by Lee Starnes. After Uyen Vien injured his arm in a 2008 motorbike crash, he stemmed the lingering pain with a trusted remedy: the saliva of birds. Tropical swiftlets use their spittle to build nests, and Vien used one of those nests to make a medicinal soup. “I had a bowl once a day, and after a week, I felt better,” he says. Seeing those effective results, he decided to construct a house outside Ho Chi Minh City where the birds could build their nests. By harvesting those nests and charging as much 30 asialife HCMC
as $2,000 per kilogram, many swiftlet ‘farmers’ across Vietnam can make a fortune. It’s part of a larger trend around Asia, where consumers are becoming increasingly wealthy and increasingly attracted to such luxuries as bird's nest soup. But could the growing demand hurt the regional ecosystem? Gathorne Cranbrook, co-author of the 2002 book Swiftlets of Borneo, says the domesticated birds (which live in buildings) are “genetically different” from their wild cousins (which live
in caves). The birds can navigate in the dark and are very behaviour-driven, so those born in houses will grow up to seek out similar places in which to build their own nests. As competition for food increases, the farmed swiftlets risk shutting out the wild ones, as well as other varieties of swifts whose slobbery secretions aren’t so coveted. In some ways this is a zero-sum game because of the so-called “carrying capacity”, or the maximum number of birds that the local environment can support. “It is a disadvantage to the wild birds,” Cranbrook, a leading expert on swiftlets, says in a telephone interview from his home in England. A centuries-old trade
Bird saliva is not a new delicacy in Asia. In the 16th century, and perhaps earlier, people were spelunking across the region to feed the lively nest trade. Cranbrook says Dutch merchants noticed this when they arrived at the time, especially in the tropical climates where the swiftlets thrive. Caving could be a deadly profession; there are still reports to this day that people have fallen from ladders during harvests. In Vietnam, much of the industry officially centres on Nha Trang. But that has changed in recent years, as skyrocketing demand pushed companies and individuals to set up brick-andmortar homes for the swiftlets. Some build small dwellings just for the birds, while others
saliva simply add on attics to their existing homes to welcome feathered tenants. The taste for bird's nest especially saw a boom in the 1980s. “It used to be for kings and the rich,” says local trader Tran Anh Trong. “But now it’s popular.” Shops that sell bird’s nest (to yen) have exploded around Ho Chi Minh City to cater to domestic customers, as well as those from Hong Kong, Singapore and China. Countries from Indonesia to Malaysia breed swiftlets as well. Bloomberg reported in August that demand is so great that it “is spawning a cottage industry that has attracted investment from VinaCapital Group Ltd, the nation’s largest fund manager, and helping mint new millionaires.”
Vietnamese who do buy the nests often do so as gifts to elder relatives. People consume them after undergoing surgery or giving birth. They’re believed to improve everything from digestion and libido to asthma and aging. Their actual healing properties are up for debate. Even Trong says it might just be in people’s heads. “Psychology is very important,” he says. Some Vietnamese don’t seem to mind whether the benefits can be proved, saying they feel better after drinking bird's nest soup, and that’s proof enough. Still, a VnExpress article in January cited associate professor Ngo Dang Nghia as saying recent research suggests the benefits are real. He said the drooly concoc-
tion helps generate cells so that ailing bodies recover more quickly, supports firm bone
Bird’s nest is believed to improve everything from digestion and libido to asthma and aging. development, keeps skin looking young, and strengthens the immune system against viruses. Unlike bear bile and rhino horn, bird’s nests comprise a largely legal trade because they don’t seem to harm the creatures involved. But Jean-Francois Voisin, who co-wrote The White Nest Swiftlet and the Black Nest Swiftlet, recommends wild nests over farmed ones because they’re
larger and more sustainable. He also warns against the indiscriminate use of pesticides, which harm the insect populations that feed swiftlets. “Another problem with farm swiftlet[s] could be genetic pollution,” Voisin writes by email. He explains that interbreeding could result in a species that is less adaptive to nature, less productive, and more susceptible to disease. More field research needs to be done, but the bird's nest industry is large enough to pose unintended consequences that won’t be realised until decades down the line. Processed (left) and natural (right) dried bird's nest from Pho Yen, 86-88 Ham Nghi Street, District 1 in Ho Chi Minh City. asialife HCMC 31
Shades of Misconceptions, electricity costs, and the lack of sustainable energy are preventing Vietnam’s green building market from reaching its full potential. By Michael Tatarski. Photos by Lee Starnes.
As Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam continue to develop, more efficient buildings are becoming increasingly important. But it doesn’t take a construction expert to recognise that many of the projects going on around the city aren’t particularly green. Fortunately, quiet progress is being made on the eco-friendly front. Given how many stories have been published about industrial pollution, it may come as an ironic surprise that the manufacturing industry is leading the push for sustainable buildings in Vietnam. The country’s place in the global supply chain is a major reason for this, says Melissa Merryweather, the director of Green Consult-Asia and a leading national expert on
green buildings. “A lot of manufacturers are under much stricter pressure from their client base,” Merryweather says. “If you’re making shoes and your client is Nike, Nike now requires a lot of oversight.” Compared to when they first opened shop in Vietnam, most multinational corporations now have stricter global regulations concerning their products. In many cases these manufacturers have had to play catch-up. “They came here because it was cheap, and they didn’t do it with very high standards,” Merryweather says. Over the past few years, though, numerous factories have improved worker comfort, including better ventilation and lighting. “The cost for
doing this can be very low,” Merryweather says. “I worked with a plant employing 24,000 people and they started on a green plan very late. Still, after improvements to worker comfort they saved 18 percent on energy and 75 percent on water use, which over a 100,000-square-metre facility is a lot of water.” But despite significant savings, cost remains the deciding factor of whether a company will go green. “Nobody is going to do it because the planet is heating up or because Ho Chi Minh City may be under water in 50 years,” Merryweather says. A common, but incorrect, belief among architects and engineers in Vietnam is that a green building will cost 20 percent
more than a normal structure. This is simply not the case and is hindering the development of a robust green building market. “That is one of the main issues; there is rising awareness of green buildings, but that awareness is not always accurate,” says Michael Sieburg, a manager at Solidiance, a Singapore-based firm that recently released a white paper titled, ‘Is There a Future for Green Buildings in Vietnam?’ Merryweather agrees this misperception is a major problem. “People who say it will cost that much actually have no idea because they’ve never done it before,” she says. “Adding 20 percent to a building cost, that’s actually hard to do.” Research conducted by
Building models from Ho Chi Minh City-based green architectural firm Vo Trong Nghia Architects.
Merryweather and the Vietnam Green Building Council over the last three years shows that green buildings cost just 0.5 to 5 percent more, on par with countries like Singapore and the United States. This extra cost most likely will be recuped quickly through energy savings once a building begins operating. “We know energy prices are going up 15 percent a year,” Merryweather says, “and the projected savings only include electricity and water, not any of the knockoff benefits of improved health, productivity and things like that.” This is why energy-intensive sectors like manufacturing are leading the way to improved efficiency in Vietnam. Of course, not only industrial plants are
getting in on the action. “Hotels have also been somewhat early adapters, as they also have big operating costs and there is a brand-name
don’t see the need to make the short-term investment for long-term savings because their energy costs aren’t that high,” he says.
“Prices here are low relative to the rest of the region, so many companies don’t see the need to make the short-term investment for long-term savings because their energy costs aren’t that high.” Michael Sieburg, manager at Solidiance marketing and consulting firm benefit of being labeled ecofriendly,” Sieburg says. Infrastructure and the lack of renewable energy is also a major issue. In fact, despite recent increases, Sieburg believes electricity prices are too low compared with the rest of the region. “Many companies
But avoiding extra costs now could cause serious problems down the road. “The national supply of energy is not sufficient for the needs projected over the next few years,” Merryweather says. “If we don’t build better buildings and improve existing buildings
there’s going to be a big energy supply problem and a big cost issue.” For all its poorly designed buildings, Ho Chi Minh City does have one landmark structure that can illustrate for developers the financial sense of building green. President Place, located on the corner of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia and Nguyen Du streets, is Vietnam’s first LEED Gold-certified building. In an email Alex Crane, a senior leasing manager at Savills Vietnam, says President Place has landed prominent tenants like Microsoft and Canon thanks to its green credentials. The ability to attract multinational corporations will appeal to any developer, as will the potential down the line to charge premium rent.
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brewing up
Change
Song Xanh cafe is a unique kind of town square, where people who want to change the world get together. And have coffee. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Lee Starnes.
A
cafe is not just a business, it’s an idea. And the idea provides something more valuable than strawberry smoothies and office lunches: it’s a gathering place. Cafes have been the launch pad for everything from movements to tech start-ups. For some this might be just an afterthought, but not for Bui Viet Ha. The power of bringing people together was at the front of his mind when he opened Song Xanh cafe in February. Ha wanted Song Xanh, which means “green living”, to serve as a crucible of innovation for the socially inclined. So the downstairs looks like a typical coffee shop where guests drink and chat. But upstairs, different organisations hold regular meetings and events whose topics range from gay rights to
34 asialife HCMC
poverty reduction. “One reason I created Green Living is that I like to connect different groups,” Ha says in an interview at his cafe. Plenty of Vietnamese restaurants include charity on the menu; most notably, Koto and Sozo train disadvantaged young people to work in the hospitality industry. And plenty of businesses embrace corporate social responsibility (CSR), such as investor VinaCapital, which funnels money into the samenamed foundation for children, health, and education. But Song Xanh is harder to categorise. That’s because Ha has his hand in a lot of causes that would seem unrelated, from pollution to starvation. The main unifying factor is that he throws open the doors for groups to book meetings, free of charge. And for about half the
days of the month, as reflected on a scroll calendar downstairs, the space is reserved. Swede dreams Ha, 38, studied in Sweden and has two degrees, one in mechanical engineering, the other in economics. “When I was in Sweden, I see different things. Sweden is very green and clean and very advanced. I admire them,” Ha says. The experience made him think, “I like to do something for my country.” At first, he returned to Vietnam to work for Ikea and then British Petroleum. He enjoyed the pay and the perks — like a buffet lunch daily — but grew restless and wanted more out of life. Song Xanh is supposed to be the answer. The cafe promotes
Nearby, a wheelbarrow has been fashioned into a chair; at the entrance, a dress has turned into a lampshade. four pillars: healthy food, the exchange of ideas (meetings), skills training, and in-house events. One of the main events is a bimonthly afternoon tea, where organisers sell secondhand clothes to both raise money and encourage reuse. The funds are modest — about VND 15 million raised through six teas. Ha donated some of that money to a soup kitchen in Binh Thanh District, where he and his peers also volunteered to cook and serve vegetarian meals. Thank you for not smoking While I interview Ha downstairs in the cafe, which doesn’t have a fourth wall but is open to the street, a customer sits down and lights up a cigarette. Ha gestures to one of his staff, and soon the customer
moves to a table outside. Minutes before, Ha just told me he has kicked out guests who smoke. He’s a rarity in tobacco-friendly Vietnam, where anti-smoking regulations are slow to take hold. It’s reflected in the signs peppering Song Xanh; at least half a dozen beseech customers not to smoke. Even in the bathroom, a very scary, anthropomorphised cigarette scowls at visitors. That’s just one of the odd but interesting ways Song Xanh works its green ethos into the infrastructure. I don’t realise until Ha points it out, but I’m sitting in a recycled chair, donated by a furniture company that held a competition in which Vietnamese people created furniture out of used materials. Nearby, a wheelbarrow has been fashioned into a chair; at
the entrance, a dress has turned into a lampshade. Besides funky decor, Song Xanh uses solar heating to warm up the water, thanks to sponsor Gia Nam. Kien Truc Xanh (“green architecture”) helped design efficient ventilation and lighting, though the cafe often uses natural light. There are few lights turned on during my visit. Ha also stores rainwater to feed the plants, some of them crawling on the walls outside. He hopes there’ll be enough in the future to help cool the building naturally. Never alone As a social enterprise, the cafe clearly has a lot of partners. Sach Thai Ha donated the books that fill a shelf next to the bar. The World Wildlife Fund gave Song Xanh a certificate for
pitching in during the antirhino horn campaign, whose posters hang on the walls. The cafe is distributing a pamphlet on road safety from the city traffic department. “The way I’m doing everything is, I never do anything alone,” Ha says. On the south side of the backpacker district, Song Xanh has yet to turn a profit in its first year of operations. It has a long way to go, and when it comes to progress on the social and environmental causes that Ha cares about, so does Vietnam. “It’s a great distance,” Ha says, “but it’s better to do something rather than wait for something to happen.” Song Xanh cafe 64 Ho Hao Hon Street, D1 08 38 38 99 00 Cafe.songxanh.vn
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The best
l a i d p l a n s sometimes
a r e n ' t 1. Sit near the front of the plane, especially if you have a layover. You will be one of the first passengers off the plane after it lands, which sometimes can mean the difference between making or missing a connecting flight. You also will get out of the airport sooner. And on the topic of flying: Check in online. It saves time at the airport, and might spare you some nagging about the size of your carry-on, which is starting to become a hassle even with non-American airlines. 2. Grab a free map at a
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tourist office or hotel. This might seem unnecessary on a well-planned trip, but it’s often easier to pick up maps on the fly (hotels are everywhere) and they’re more useful than ones you’ll find in Lonely Planet. Last year, I used a 10-hour layover in Ukraine to explore Kiev. So I left my carry-on in a locker at the airport, bussed downtown, and then roamed the capital with a map from a random hotel. It came with landmarks already highlighted as is often the case. There’s a lot of freedom in navigating on your own, rather than using a
Here are some less-traditional travel tips for the spontaneous of heart and light of wallet. By Lien Hoang. Photo by Lee Starnes.
tour guide. Also I’m a visual thinker, so I haven’t really visited a city until I can picture it, feel my way around mentally, get oriented. 3. Get lost. Four years ago a friend suggested this when I asked what to do in Rome. So I left the hostel to wander the cobblestone streets and oneperson-wide alleys until dark. Then I pulled out the map to see where I was and hopped on a bus to head back. It would have been better to do this only in daytime, but otherwise, most fears about losing your way
(in a strange city, no less) are unfounded. Karl Pilkington (a podcast friend of Ricky Gervais) loves doing this in his own city. He argues you find a lot of treats along the way. 4. Go where locals go. That sounds obvious, like hitting the eateries that locals prefer. But I’m thinking of the even more ordinary, so much so it’s free. Parks are a winner because they’re a place for the utterly normal: families, joggers, classmates. But also because residents make them their own, from tai chi in Tao Dan Park, to
sailboats in Tuileries Garden, to cyclists in Central Park. Some cities, especially in the United States, don’t have such a tradition of shared public space. But they have libraries, some of which lend themselves to native culture and spectacular architecture. The Vancouver library pays tribute to First Nation tribes with displays and an indigenous writer in residence. Even in my overlooked hometown of Sacramento, the Library Galleria is a glass and chandelier masterpiece that invites special occasions (like my high school prom). One other
highly visitable place I never hear about is the grocery store. Everyone thinks of bookshops and clothiers, but what’s a more local place to spend money than a grocer? You can buy backward magazines in Japan, chocolate eggs containing toys in Hungary, and no gum in Singapore.
spring, I’d intended to just tour the town surrounding the airport, Narita, so I brought a list of what to do there. But our plane landed early and there were no lines at immigration, so I decided I could afford the hour to get into Tokyo. I enjoyed the lime-green trees,
One other highly visitable place I never hear about is the grocery store. 5. Plan a little — but not too much! There are times when I wish I’d done more planning. During a layover in Tokyo this
cruiser bikes, and ramen. But if I’d planned to visit Tokyo, I would have known to go to a livelier cultural district
and made better use of the time. Still I think people tend to have the opposite problem, too much preparation. It’s exhausting to shuttle from one activity to another and check off lists. Less planning allows for surprises. In Vienna, I was blissfully unaware of the Rembrandts and Raphaels that awaited me at the Belvedere museum, which made them all the sweeter. So plan enough to know where to go and a few sights to see, but leave room for when those street performers come along and spin inside hula-hoops on the banks of Barcelona.
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All about the
Snow First-time skier Mark Bibby Jackson hurls himself down the slopes of Niseko Village in Hokkaido Island, northern Japan. Luckily for him, a soft bed of snow is there to break his fall.
I
keep hearing the same message, as if it is an unfamiliar Buddhist mantra. “It’s all about the snow,” everyone chants. The hotel staff, my fellow guests, the waiter at Yo restaurant and even the naked Englishman in the Onsen hot springs — more of that later — agree that it’s the quality of the snow that makes skiing at Niseko Village a unique experience. The snow is of such excellence that even seasoned 38 asialife HCMC
skiers from Europe fly here rather than take the short trip to the Alps, according to Augie Vong, the director of sales for YTL, a group that owns both the Green Leaf Hotel in which I am staying and the nearby ski runs. The naked Englishman, who I meet soon after arrival, agrees. “I just love skiing up to my waist in the snow,” he says to a French-Canadian sitting next to him. I just hope he skies in more appropriate attire than
he bathes in. Like myself, he has cast aside natural British reticence and braved intermittent snow flurries to walk to the outdoor Onsen for his traditional Japanese ablution, with a flimsy piece of cloth the size of a beer mat the only protection for national pride. Clearly Japanese do not have much to hide. “It’s the best,” adds Chris, an Australian waiter at Yo, a traditional Japanese Irori restaurant where customers
sit around a sunken hearth. "It's better than Australia and France. The snow is softer and more dry.” I’m not sure what surprises me most — that snow can be dry or you can ski in Australia. Clearly I have plenty to learn about skiing. Chris’ occupation — a ski instructor by day and waiter by night — typifies the twin attractions of Niseko Village. There are no steins of beer and fondue here, but sake and teppanyaki. In addition to Yo, the Hilton in Niseko has numerous restaurants, including a fantastic teppanyaki grill offering fresh seafood and buttery marbled wagyu beef. There’s also an ice bar, literally cut into the ice that melts away each Spring. Just don’t ask for your sake hot here. But despite the excellent food on offer, the skiers who come to Niseko each year are drawn in by the snow. Peter Novom, my ski instructor, grew up on the slopes of Vermont and explains that the particularly soft snow is the result of dry winds from Siberia. Between 15 to 18 metres falls each year, about three times more than in Vermont, meaning the snow is always fresh. “They do not even have a snow making machine here,” Novom says. “The snow
is reliable. I haven’t heard anyone leaving disappointed.” There may be dry winds and soft snow, but there is still a mountain to descend on long sticks that seemed to be crying out “break a leg” in a time-honoured thespian tradition. “Don’t worry the snow is soft,” says Aja Ng YTL’s director of public relations. “It cushions the blow.” Now, why don’t I find that totally reassuring? This is my first time skiing, unless you count one alcoholinduced assault on a dry slope in England, when my cousin persuaded me to take the chair to the top of the slope and make my own way down. So, this afternoon, standing at the top of the community run in Japan, the finest teppanyaki lining my stomach, I try to banish all thoughts of my previous foolhardy venture and focus instead on the softness of the snow. The morning had gone smoothly enough, with my greatest ordeal finding a skisuit and boots large enough for me. The consequent orange ensemble was neither fashion statement nor forlorn appeal to Buddha, but simply a case of wearing what fit. Like a condemned man joining the chain gang I stomped my way
to the nursery slopes — ski boots are not made for walking. There, Novom showed me how to swerve left and right as well as the art of stopping safely — something I had never mastered in Essex. In truth, these skills, even for a
small boy perhaps five or six years old comes whizzing past me, his relaxed mother close behind. Undeterred I persevere — after all I can hardly walk down in these boots. With the finishing line in sight and the Hilton hotel lying in wait for me, the slope
I descend the mountain like a large orange heffalump with the certainty of a novice duckling encountering an icy pond for the first time. klutz like myself, are pretty simple to pick up. I think I only discovered how soft the snow was once, and that at a pedestrian pace. Standing at the top of the run, both my mind and knees turn to jelly. A sharp intake of fresh air and I am off. There is something both exhilarating and paralysing about attempting an activity that is essentially life-threatening. Each time I master a slow curve I get a sense of accomplishment, each time I lose control my heart beats faster. I descend the mountain like a large orange heffalump with the certainty of a novice duckling encountering an icy pond for the first time. Just as I feel I have begun to stand on my own two feet, a
appears to grow steeper, or is that the effect of the adrenaline playing a trick on my mind? I lose my head and hurl myself to the ground one last time, assured in the knowledge that the slope’s soft snow will break my fall and not my legs. After all, what is it everyone has been telling me all week — it’s all about the snow, all about the snow. Skiing at Niseko Village (Nisekovillage.com) runs from December to April / May depending on the snow. During the summer the ski runs turn into a golf course. The Green Leaf (Thegreenleafhotel. com) is open from December to March. Flights go from Bangkok direct to New Chitose Airport Sapporo, a three-hour shuttle bus trip from the ski resort.
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Big Man, Big Cheese, Big Sauce How many Mexicans live in this city? That’s right, not many! So how many Mexican restaurants are there in this city? That’s right, none! At least none that any person bearing a Mexican passport would acknowledge. But truth to tell, there are very few true Mexican restaurants anywhere outside of Mexico. I fell into one many years ago in Madrid. I drank tequila with the owner, who sadly told me of his struggle to keep a going concern outside Mexico. The poor chap was basically giving away guacamole gratis and he couldn’t pay a Spaniard to eat a jalapeno pepper. So don’t feel that I disparage when I say that virtually nobody has ever eaten true Mexican cuisine outside of Mexico. For those of us who hail from North America (yes, that means Johnny Canuck, too), we have grown up surrounded by restaurants called ‘Mexican’. But even there it’s not what folks would eat south of the border. It’s called TexMex if you’re anywhere east of the headwaters of the Rio Grande, and CalMex anywhere else. And these are worthy cuisines. They have given us such ‘Mexican’ staples as chile con carne, fajitas, nachos, Caesar salad, the margarita both shaken and frozen. But you’ll find none of these things in Mexico except at Club Med, US-owned chain restaurants, Princess Cruises, and the innumerable borderland beaneries where gringos gather. While today a stellar form of cookery, Tex/CalMex had very humble beginnings. Hard-working Mexican farm labourers who travelled north of the border didn’t care for, nor could they afford, such delicacies as peanut butter and jelly, or baloney sandwiches. Twinkies didn’t float their boat. And burgers and fries were food for “el patron”. So they relied on the simple stalwarts, the tried and true. Tacos, burritos and tamales 40 asialife HCMC
(and permutations thereof) became their staple fare. Those things exist in Mexico, but they are not considered ‘cuisine’. They are snack foods. And in Mexico they are as basic and unadorned as baloney on white bread with no mustard. You know, stuff you get in jail (or maybe you don’t know). But in Texas and California things took a different turn. There were ingredients easily available that were not so in Mexico. Sour cream, different cheeses, superior and various meats, and better beans all found their way to what would eventually become Señor So-n-So’s taco truck, and ultimately the plush
smoked, it becomes the ancho and it yields a manly sauce that rivals any of the more feminine varieties a French or Italian kitchen might produce. With this precious stash, along with a steady supply of meaty chipotle (smoked jalapeno peppers) and a gonzo aromatic pepper blend, Deetz is now, for as long as it lasts, offering a trio of robust CalMex sauces. Ancho, chipotle and classic chilli sauces are gracing enchiladas made of the finest golden corn masa and stuffed with tender goodness. All three sauces are superb. But start with ancho. It’s moanout-loud, squirm-in-your-pants delicious. It’s a deep brown
“When the poblano is dried or smoked, it becomes the ancho and it yields a manly sauce that rivals any of the more feminine varieties a French or Italian kitchen might produce.” downtown joint with red leather booths. A wider, largely gringo, clientele brought even more variety, and demand for more and better. And, significantly, Tabasco and other sauces and condiments came into play. That’s right, Tabasco sauce is not from Mexico! But with that condiment, and others, as the beginning, a true saucier’s art has come to flourish in the CalMex kitchen. And in Saigon there is only one CalMex saucier that I know of. Enter the Big Cheese. Geoffrey Deetz, owner and boss of the Black Cat restaurant, is one big man. And the boss man is known as the Big Cheese (so is his eponymous 1-pound burger at Black Cat). For the past three years Deetz has been accumulating and hoarding the biggest supply in Southeast Asia of the rather rare poblano chilli pepper. It’s a very flavoursome breed, but not burn-your-face-off spicy. When the poblano is dried or
sauce recalling a molé, but this is no soft and subtle molé. It’s a bold, brown, brash beast of a sauce. But as masculine as it is, it isn’t so insolent as to mask the flavours of the bundle of gentle delight it cloaks. Rather, it drags them by the hair out into the full daylight and marshals them onto your tongue in full tasty array. The soft and supple enchilada does not become a mere vessel for the sauce. It’s a blushing bride who comes decked out in black leather and studs. You can almost hear the whip crack. The ancho’s little brothers are game fellows, too, disporting themselves amongst the maidens of La Familia Tortilla. They chase and capture. They tease and titillate. And they’re good boys to play with for a while. But it’s big brother ancho I’ll cross town for. Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1
ZanZBar As a rule of thumb, I prefer to have coffee at cafes, wine at bars, and food at restaurants. The more compartmentalised, the better. No overlap, please. But ZanZBar is somewhat of an exception. Walk in from Dong Khoi Street, where ZanZBar recently moved from its spot on Dong Du Street, and you’ll find the trappings of a bar. High chairs at high tables, dim lighting, world music, and of course, a bar jammed with bottles and glasses. It aims to be both bar and restaurant; I’d hang out here for the look of a bar but the fare of a restaurant. The street level café and bar is perfect for drinks and people watching while the
Sit-down quality, international cuisine in a relaxed bar setting. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Lee Starnes.
restaurant’s mezzanine on the second floor is designed as a dedicated dining space. There is also a third-level private room that comfortably seats 30. Bar food tends to be appetisers for the social. But here there’s more craft and thought put into the international entrees. The New Zealand tenderloin (VND 440,000) sits on top of a very thick and uncommon pea puree (I thought it was guacamole), on top of a breadboard. The idea isn’t novel, but I don’t know why more chefs don’t present steak on cutting boards, which satisfy both form and function. The honey mustard chicken
bacon salad (VND 190,000) has to be one of the most eclectic out there. I happen to like salads with a little of everything, and have never seen so many ingredients piled onto a slab of bread. Cheddar, pine nuts, boiled quail eggs, snow peas and plenty of others form a mountain of a salad. Like the chicken salad, the tuna tartare (VND 195,000) doesn’t have very strong flavours. The fish eggs help, but you might need more of the ginger-soy-lemon vinaigrette. For a better choice, the sirumi crispy roll (VND 130,000) turns a simple artificial crab into a tasty snack. It comes with a sweet-and-sour dip
that’s uniquely spicy. Tiramisu (VND 130,000) is generally too soft for me, but unlike other menu items, this makes up for it with bold flavours. In general don’t expect discounts and large portions from the menu. Sitting near the river on one of the city’s most-travelled streets, you’re paying for location. The daily happy hour, however, offers discounts on imported European beer, wine and creative house cocktails that are popular with the early-evening crowd. 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 (7am-midnight, seven days) 08 62 91 36 86 asialife HCMC 41
Gao Mon Ngon A trifecta of Gao restaurants has opened in Ho Chi Minh City, consisting of Gao Mon Ngon, Gao Hai San, and Gao Buffet. Visiting the former, it’s as if we’ve sauntered through Vietnam’s fog-enshrouded mountains, ancient bridges and paddy fields to get here. Architecture resembling Vietnamese palaces and old quarters is given a modern touch. Crystal chandeliers dangle next to vases containing birds of paradise, and lantern orbs form an enchanting canopy near wooden tables crowned in Vietnamese ceramics. Gao is Vietnamese for “uncooked rice”. At Gao Mon Ngon, the all-encompassing menu features four varieties 42 asialife HCMC
A classy chain of Vietnamese restaurants that show rice can be more than a side dish. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Lee Starnes.
of the staple crop to celebrate the heritage of Vietnam. More than five pages display artfully prepared vegetarian dishes such as oyster mushroom rolls (VND 65,000), seafood plates such as crab roasted with tamarind (VND 420,000), or exotic hotpots such as eel with banana flower (VND 350,000). Huyet rong rice (VND 35,000) is named after dragon’s blood, which this rice resembles with its distinctive plum and red-brown colouring. It had a sweet fragrance in its bamboo vessel. Sourced from Dong Thap province in the Mekong Delta, the rice was soft and chewy. We tried it with morning glory (VND 55,000),
which was sautéed with bits of pungent garlic cloves to bring out the plant’s flavour. The lightness of the huyet rong and morning glory primed our palates for crab fried rice (VND 295,000). The dish came with a boiled crab atop a hill of white rice tossed with chunks of scrambled egg, green onions, carrots, and crabmeat. The crabmeat inside the claws was fresh and not overly briny. The fried rice was also generous, making every bite consistent and enjoyable. Our last dish was the dwarf snakehead fish simmered in fish sauce (VND 95,000), cooked in a claypot that kept it lukewarm and savoury. The citrus of lemongrass enhanced
full-bodied red chilli, while a stem of healthy green pepper corns added an interesting textural element to the dish. The caramelisation of the tender snakehead fish was rich and filling. Gao Mon Ngon’s dishes are memorable, and its clientele is, too. Gao is a chain belonging to renowned traditional Vietnamese dancer Linh Nga. Naturally, the restaurant is a haunt for other famous Vietnamese actors and models, who may be dining in the corner VIP room.
33 Le Quy Don, D3 7am-11pm, seven days 08 39 32 66 32
The Hungry Pig This small, two-month-old shop on Cong Quynh Street, at the edge of the backpacker district, serves bacon sandwiches. Honestly, does anything else really need to be said? Bacon is one of those things that you either love or hate. And if you’re a fan of bacon, it won’t take much to convince you to try the Hungry Pig, and you’ll be glad you did. If you’ve already forsaken these crispy bits of pig flesh for “better” health, then you need to get your priorities straight and come back to the tasty side. Health debates aside, there is no argument that the Hungry Pig has some pretty amazing bacon. Owner Christian Taylor knows his pigs and the
A bacon-centric sandwich bar at the edge of the Pham. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Lee Starnes.
24-year-old Brit painstakingly tracked down a Vietnamese farmer he could trust to raise some delicious and organic swine. This allows Taylor to get his bacon delivered twice a month, which not only ensures freshness, but also means he doesn’t need to add nitrates, those pesky preservatives some say are the most worrisome ingredient in bacon. Although Taylor has plenty of American-style bacon (prepared from pork belly), he doesn’t have any back bacon yet, to the bane of British bacon lovers. But he says it won’t be long before these thicker cuts are on the menu. He also expects to be bringing home enough bacon in the near
future to actually sell packs of it in the restaurant. As for the menu it’s pretty simple. Grab a laminated card at the counter and mark off what you want. You can either choose set options, such as the classic bacon lettuce and tomato (VND 65,000) or the Notorious P.I.G (VND 100,000), which comes with maple bacon, chorizo, honey ham, mozzarella and rocket on a baguette. Or you can make your own sandwich. First choose your bread: a baguette, white or wheat toast, bagel, or Panini. Then the bacon: pine smoked, maple, chilli and pepper, or cayenne (you can also opt for chorizo, ham, or salami). To top it off there are
four different types of cheese, and a bunch of vegetables and condiments. If you still love your bacon, but want something a little healthier, three salad options for under VND 100,000 were recently added. While bacon has always been popular, it has become a fad over the past few years, used in everything from desserts and chocolate bars to expensive cuts of steak. But the Hungry Pig is a no-frills restaurant that isn’t following any trends. Instead, it puts bacon back where it belongs, between two pieces of bread. 144 Cong Quynh Street, D1 08 38 36 45 33 7am-10pm, seven days asialife HCMC 43
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behind the design:
blackmarket n°3 A Singaporean design studio brings its indie fashion to Saigon, where big brands are still king. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Lee Starnes.
"Revolutionary" best describes the Blackmarket No. 3 store launch this summer in Ho Chi Minh City. Around 100 artists, photographers, stylists, designers, and expats came to support the Singapore-based concept boutique, which has been picked up by publications like Vogue for curating experimental fashion labels and endorsing progressive design prodigies in a predominantly commercial retail market. "Apart from clothes, apart from clothing design, we're trying to gather as many young talents as possible," says Honey Nguyen, store manager of Blackmarket No. 3. "We want to build a positive art movement." Singaporean design studio Blackmarket established the first store in the series in 2009. It was stationed in Jalan Pisang, a former black market turf for Indonesian pirates and drug dens. Blackmarket No. 2 opened two years later in Orchard Central, Singapore's tallest mall, in a 1,500 sq. ft. space. Due to high rental costs, Blackmarket No. 2 closed its doors last month. The company's venture in Vietnam makes Blackmarket No. 3 the first overseas post, and a different challenge for the company. Founders Jasmine Tuan, a Singaporean multimedia designer, and Quincy Teofisto, a Filipino video artist, recognise that Saigon has potential to
embrace the multi-label, concept store trend. But compared to Singapore, Jakarta or Manila, the city has a design industry that’s more difficult to penetrate. "The gap in the difference is quite vast," says Teofisto, the company's creative director. "The consumer behaviour in here is still unstable. It will take a few initiatives to make them understand conceptual ideals, like creating more shows, exhibits, interdisciplinary collaborations, gigs. All these elements need to be constantly executed. They're building blocks of a vibrant design community." Aligning with its "let our rebel yell resonate" mantra, Blackmarket No. 3 is not situated downtown, but rather in a modest, independent housing space in District 3. The boutique is ensconced down a quiet alley on Dien Bien Phu, past old, yellow cast-iron gates. Retail shops are nonexistent. For now, the boutique is isolated, attracting curious clientele. It affords a private space for events, but also for an intimate roster of fashion talent as the shop gradually builds its design following. "The support is not only for Ho Chi Minh City," Teofisto says. "We're expanding our move here to inspire designers in Vietnam and make them realise that there is an avenue for designers. We've met a few great designers here ... I must
say, the quality of work can par with their international counterparts." Kaarem is currently the only Vietnamese label featured at Blackmarket No. 3. The wearability and timelessness of Kaarem is the reason its designs, such as a jupiter boatneck top (VND 2,320,000), sesame pocket pants (VND 2,960,000), and a dill high-collar dress (VND 5,940,000), hang closest to the entrance. More racks of edgy collections fill the perimetre of the shop's sparse, mod interior. At one end, garments from Singapore's Stolen feature signature cutout backs, inspired by architecture and the feminine body. In the men's section, Filipino brand Gian Romano's clothes showcase intricate draping and an androgynous aesthetic. The designs are destined for stock replacements every three or four months. Blackmarket No. 3's current obstacle is to attract local customers to the designers and to generate an interest in the new wave of labels, which has been admittedly low. “For Ho Chi Minh City, we only carry less than quarter of our designers,” Teofisto says. “We're still testing and analysing, so we don't have mainstays here yet." However, last month, HTV, the largest local television broadcaster in Vietnam, ap-
proached the shop to film a style makeover segment promoting the clothing. "It was a good way for locals to become more familiar with our styles," Nguyen says. "For most people in Vietnam, if they pay money, they want to buy not so much the style, but the brand name. At Blackmarket, the style is indie fashion, so we have to see if people can think differently." Fashion magazines have been pivotal for exposure. Leading publications, such as My Thuat, Dep, and Barcode, have all given a nod to the shop. It recently lent jewelry from French designer Estelle Deve for ELLE Vietnam's September issue, regarded as the year’s most important issue in the fashion industry. Vietnam Top Model Thuy Trang wears the jewelry in the editorial The Paper Girls, a small testament to Blackmarket's overseas post as a growing vanguard of style. "We're planning to create a brand that is only available for Ho Chi Minh City, more of an identity initiation, and more interdisciplinary collaboration — mainly fashion angle," says Teofisto. "We're optimistic in the city. Hopefully we made the right move." Blackmarket No. 3 267/2 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Theblackmarket.sg asialife HCMC 45
To Die For Photography by Lee Starnes Styling by Hanh Edbrooke Model Sarah Joanne Smith
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Bags by Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 and 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Left: Samira VND 2,268,000 Above: Darice VND 2,520,000
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Above: Gianna: VND 3,780,000 Right: Kahlo: VND 2,520,000
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www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.
listings
Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.
hotel & travel AIRLINES
Air Asia 223 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9811 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris. Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion every Friday. Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex. Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241
escape
Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket. Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 03600 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board. VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office. Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
CON DAO
Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel. Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.
DALAT
Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden. Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool. Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style,
international and Vietnamese cuisine. Facilities include tennis court and sauna. Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.
HANOI
Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool. Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian. Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine. Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport
take flight with travel promotions around the region
Wedding on the Beach
Mango Bay announced a wedding package that takes advantage of its one kilometre access to the Phu Quoc coastline. Dance on the beach to a live band. Have dinner with Asian and western fare based on greens from the day's market or the resort’s herb garden, seafood from nearby fishermen and meat reared by the island’s farmers. Stay with friends and family in bungalows amid 20 hectares of forest and gardens. The rooms have gauzy four-poster beds, locally handmade furniture, and solar-heated water. The 20guest-minimum deal can be reserved at Mangobayphuquoc.com.
Doing Business in Luxury
Edensee in Da Lat has introduced a corpo-
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Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.
rate deal for VND 1,890,000 per delegate. Besides twin share accommodation in the superior room, guests get all day use of one of six conference rooms with two tea/ coffee breaks, plus a three-course menu or buffet for lunch. The options range from VIP meeting rooms to conference rooms for several hundred delegates, which come with technological support, luxury furnishings, high ceilings, chandeliers, and scenic views. Contact 0 63 38 31 51 5 or info@ dalatedensee.com.
Stay 3, Pay 2
Save on travelling costs to Nha Trang by getting a free night when you book two at Novotel Nha Trang. The promotion is valid for online reservations made in October for stays through 11 Nov. The hotel offers
guests complimentary use of the sauna, steam bath, swimming pool, fitness center, Apple computers in the lobby, sun lounge and towels at the beach. Contact 05 86 25 69 00 for more information. Located at 50 Tran Phu street, the hotel can be found online at Novotel-nhatrang.com.
and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers. Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan. Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant. Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.
InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view. Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre. New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant. Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688
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services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.
jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.
HOI AN & DANANG
HUE
Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools. All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph. Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike. InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and
Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning. La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes. Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles. Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.
Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.
NHA TRANG
Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving. Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar. Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay. Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.
PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury. Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex. The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa. Victoria Phan Thiet
Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.
SAPA
Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.
SCUBA DIVING
Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc. Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.
VUNG TAU
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.
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TRAVEL AGENTS
Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent. Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.
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its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.
listings
La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.
food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains. Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu. Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.
That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.
Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.
Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.
Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.
CAFES
Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.
Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.
Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.
Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for
Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior,
X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.
CHINESE
Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine. Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience
broaden your palate with promotions around town
A Month for Germany
On the occasion of Oktoberfest, the Sheraton has German cuisine throughout its venues in October. At Saigon Café every Friday night, a “beer feast” includes German potato salad, pork head jelly, oven roasted pork neck, sour braised beef and all kinds of sausages. With unlimited German beer and house wine, dinner is VND 980,000. Level 23 Signature restaurant will have a German contemporary five-course set menu daily. At Mojo Café, a special menu will showcase modern and traditional German cuisine, like Oktoberfest pizza, curry sausage, pan fried German meat noodle, grilled meat loaf, lentil soup and rote gruetze. The hotel is at 88 Dong Khoi Street, D1. The Park Hyatt presents a special menu
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Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around. The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.
Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.
Teenage Whisky
outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.
Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.
Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.
feast
Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.
just for October at its Park Lounge. It makes particular nod to Glenmorangie, a single malt Scotch whisky that’s been around for more than 160 years, refining the balance between cask and spirit, wood and whisky. The original is VND 150,000 a glass, or VND 220,000 for the 12-year Nectar D’Or, or VND 420,000 for the 18-year option. On the snack menu are foie gras terrine with port poached figs and warm brioche for VND 230,000; a 72 percent dark chocolate, roasted almond bar for VND 140,000; and house-cured salmon gravlax with mirin soy tapioca and pickled beetroot for VND 110,000. Find the lounge at 2 Lam Son Square, D1.
Oysters Are Back in Town
The Caravelle is netting Nha Trang’s coveted Fine de Claire oysters and Veuve
Clicquot champagne for a week of sensational oyster specialties. The oysters at Reflections and Martini Bar from 12-18 Oct come raw or prepared as oysters Kilpatrick, Mornay or Rockefeller. A dozen Fine de Claires together with a flute of premium champagne costs VND 1 million. The address is 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1.
street gourmet
Mi Quang Quang noodle soups are a specialty of Quang Nam province and Da nang. They generally have just enough pork and dried shrimp based broth to cover the noodles. What makes Quang noodle soups unique is the richness and complex flavours of the broth. A bowl of mi Quang is served
at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials. Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs. Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.
FRENCH
Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras. Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants
with rice or egg noodles at the bottom and meat and seafood on top. Then vegetables and coarsely ground peanuts are added and it is served with pieces of crispy rice paper. Mi Quang can be found throughout Vietnam and should cost between VND 15,000 to VND 60,000. Khoa Nguyen
in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa. Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants. L’essentiel 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 38 21 76 82 A French restaurant offering a traditional menu that changes every week in a rotation of four. Dishes range from around VND 100,000 upwards to nearly VND 400,000 and include a variety of meat and seafood options. Cheese and pastries are available as well. Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.
INDIAN
Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND. ď‚Œ Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671
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imbibe
street gourmet
The Perfect Pairing By Darryl Bethea I recently had lunch with AsiaLIFE streetfood columnist Tristan Ngo at a small Hue cuisine restaurant called Nam Giao (to hear about the food check out the ‘Local eats’ column). Tristan explained that Hue food is all about the level of spiciness in the sauces. Asian dishes are like this in many places; add a few chillis and it changes the profile of any dish. High-tannin wines like red Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Syrah, though delicious, would intensify the heat and destroy your taste buds. What you need for an effective pairing is a wine that allows for the flavours to come through and balance out the heat, and keep you enjoying each bite. You’ve probably had a Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay or Chablis — these can be found at most wine shops or restaurants — but there are two other varietals that you should try with spicy food: Albarino and Riesling. Albarino is a medium-bodied white wine from Galacia, on the west coast of northern Spain. This seaside region is a seafood paradise. The mineral qualities of the sea can be recognised in the nose and palate. The fruitiness of the grapes used in Albarino has a slight sweetness that refreshes the palate and does a great job of preparing you for the next round of spiciness.
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There are many price ranges and styles of Albarino. Favourite labels are Pazo Barrantes, from one of the oldest wineries in the area, Marques de Murrieta. On the budget end of high value, try Val de Nora Albarino. Albarino has a fairly low-alcohol content and its style is often compared to the noble grape of Riesling. Riesling is one of the best white wines, with varying degrees of fruitiness, and is the primary wine of Germany. Its low-alcohol content will not intensify the heat of spicy dishes. There are fine Rieslings from many regions, like Alsace in France. But I recommend those from Mosel, Germany, or the United States and other New World regions. The world-famous labels JJ Prum and Chateau Ste, Michelle will fit any budget. While it is often dismissed because of the fruity sweetness, which is usually associated with a dessert wine, the mineral content and acidity has a way of cooling the heat of dishes and doesn’t compete with the flavours of the food. Even without food, these low-alcohol, zero-tannin wines have a refreshing fruitiness that is perfect for a hot climate. Darryl Bethea is group sales manager for Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at darryl@magnumwinecellars. com or 09 33 78 50 05.
Che Often translated as ‘pudding’, che is more like a combination of a sweet stew and a drink. Tapioca, corn, beans and sticky rice are simmered with coconut milk in huge pots, and flavoured with palm sugar and
Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.
INTERNATIONAL
Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.
pandanus leaves. Che is served either cold with crushed ice in a tall glass or warm in a bowl. Either way, che is pure comfort food. Expect to pay between VND 3,000 to VND 10,000. Khoa Nguyen
African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. Blanchy Street 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.
Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.
Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.
Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specializes in Middle Eastern and North
Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering
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family and friends. Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain. El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day. The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw. The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day. Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer. Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.
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are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks. Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room. Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm. Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life. The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.
Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.
Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.
Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks
Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly
LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn
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specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.
Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.
New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.
Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.
Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene. Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday. The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from
Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors. Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available. Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and
Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare. Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal. Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.
ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines. Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late. Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.
Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal. Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.
JAPANESE
Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include
Tempting
Mantis Prawn Savor the signature Deep-fried Mantis Prawn boasting Shang Palace’s excellent cuisine and a wide range of fabulous seafood that surely satisfy any gourmet’s palate.
Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant 1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn
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teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.
local eats
Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere. Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.
A Little Comfort from Hue By Tristan Ngo When Darryl Bethea, who writes the ‘Imbibe’ wine column for AsiaLIFE, rang me up to ask if I’d be interested in pairing some wine with local dishes, I decided to invite him for lunch at Nam Giao. I've been going to Nam Giao for 14 years — pretty much since I first arrived in Saigon. This restaurant offers Hue cuisine and is famous among locals, but not so well-known by the expat community. Finding some wine to pair with Hue comfort cuisine isn’t easy given that the region's food is all about spices and piquant sauces. A 30-metre walk down hem 136 off of Le Thanh Ton Street, just before Ben Thanh Market, is where you will find Nam Giao. Rows of beauty supply shops filled with dozens of women giving manicures and pedicures line both sides of the alley. For more than 20 years this family-owned establishment has been serving up some of Hue's best comfort dishes, such as banh canh cua (shrimp, crab meat and noodle), com hen (tiny clams and rice), banh nam (ground shrimp and pork steamed with rice flour in banana leaves). We started with a dish of banh beo tom tuoi. Banh beo is steamed rice-flour cake topped with ground shrimp, chopped scallions, and pork skin, served with a side of fish sauce with freshly chopped
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chilli. Bun bo Hue is a classic Hue spicy beef noodle soup. The dish is often admired for its balance of spicy, sour, salty and sweet. Its predominant flavour is lemongrass. The only thing that didn't impress me was the beef. I thought it could have used another five hours in the broth because it was a bit too chewy for my taste. However, local diners seemed to enjoy gnawing away on both the meat and bone. I also ordered the bun cha cua, which is served in the same broth as bun bo. The difference between the two soups is that bun cha cua is served with crabcake paste instead of beef. I love these crabcakes. They are fresh and you can feel the crunchiness of the crustaceans, while the pepper does not overpower, but offers just enough to tingle your palate. Nam Giao is one of the best Hue restaurants in the city and is a perfect place to try pairing wine with spicy Asian food. If you’d like to know more about what wines go best with these dishes, check out the ‘Imbibe’ column. 10 Chao Muc 10 Pho Duc Chinh Street, D1 08 38 29 44 14 6.30am-9pm daily Prices: VND 15,000 to VND 40,000
The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.
KOREAN
25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi. Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables. Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Barbecue Garden 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, D1 Tel: (08) 38 23 33 40 Barbecuegarden.com Popular among locals, expats and tourists, this Vietnamese-style barbecue restaurant serves a wide-range of meat and seafood that can be grilled right at the table, all in a lush, natural outdoor setting.
and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.
VEGETARIAN
An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.” Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets. Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu. Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.
VIETNAMESE
Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine. Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am. Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices. Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill. Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen.
Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.
Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this four-floor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.
Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor
Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an
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nightlife BARS & LOUNGES
See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes. Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late. Blanchy's Tash 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A cocktail lounge that hosts local and international DJs, making it popular with the party crowd. The Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: (84) 838-247827 www.wineembassy.com.vn Wine bar in district located in district 1 with excellent selection of wines, with signature trios for sampling and comparing. With experts on hand this is a great experience to experience wines at there best. Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits. Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.
at home BAKERIES
Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs. Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2
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Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.
DELIVERY
Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com
GROCERIES
Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients. Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices. Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.
LIQUOR & WINE
The Warehouse 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories. Wine Embassy 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 38 24 78 27 With more than 30 wines by the glass and 100 vintages from all over the world, Wine Embassy offers an excellent place to discover wines in a relaxing and entertaining atmosphere.
type, intaglio and etching techniques.
listings
culture CLASSES
AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis. Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1. Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch SEED half page hor copy Classes are held at Alpha Galleryoct.pdf taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn mono-
CINEMAS
Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule. Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions. Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted. Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles). IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals. Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
7897 1Tel: 3822 9/27/13
9:20 AM
LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520
www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group. Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.
GALLERIES
a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm. Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.
Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary. Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese. Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples. San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public. TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.
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listings
sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.
CRICKET
Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn
DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.
FITNESS & YOGA
AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.
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California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.
fitness
Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down. Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps. Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered. L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance. NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout. Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes. Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga. Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1
Mind Over Matter By Phil Kelly When striving for positive life change, mental preparation is the most overlooked, yet most important, factor. People often enter into body transformation and fitness with no real plan, unrealistic expectations or time frames, and non-existent review mechanisms. The difference between those who make it and those who don't are the mindsets they have before even stepping into the gym or kitchen. Understanding your reason behind taking up a fitness or fat loss program is the key to success. Your reasons to change your life should be personal and linked to emotions. Losing 10kg because you should, for example, will never be as powerful as losing 10kg so you will never feel embarrassed about not fitting in a seat on the plane. For success in any endeavour, the subconscious mind must be in tune with your conscious desires. The subconscious is where all your previous experiences and beliefs are held — they can be thought of as the writing on the wall of your mind. Whenever you try to act consciously, the subconscious first checks with the writing inside the mind to see if it is something you really want to do. For example, if you were to think, “I am going to jump off this cliff,” the subconscious would be clear: “The cliff is high, the landing will hurt, do not jump.”
But what happens when a more neutral thought occurs and there is conflicting writing on the wall? If you said, “I want to lose 10kg of fat,” the subconscious may think, “You need to do this, you'll feel great.” But at the same time, there may be thoughts saying, “You cannot lose weight.” Subconscious beliefs and memories may conflict with the conscious, and ultimately determine your behaviour. Subconscious pictures are often what hold people back from achieving their goals. How you see yourself is also related to the habits you possess and what you deem appropriate behaviour. The most important picture you will ever change in your subconscious mind is the picture you now have of your body or how you perceive yourself. Some people with weight problems have accepted the image of their overweight selves. Until this is changed, your subconscious will use it as a guide for how you should look. Body transformation is not just about changing your nutrition and exercise, but also changing your mindset and how you see yourself. Longterm success really does depend on mind over matter. Phil is an expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him at Phil-kelly.com.
Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms. Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation. Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.
FOOTBALL & RUGBY
Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome. RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments. Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.
GOLF
Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels. Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard
par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.
DANCE FOR ALL . NÀO TA CÙNG DANCE
Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available. SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions. Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium. Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.
LEISURE
Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.
TAP BALLET JAZZ CONTEMPORARY (08)
HIP HOP BELLY DANCE ZUMBA
3 519 4490
53 Nguy‘n ß®ng Giai, Th∂o ßi“n, QuÀn 2, TP. HCM info@dancentervn.com dancentervn.com
Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays. Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.
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chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.
listings
health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained
Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.
DENTAL European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2
Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940. Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team
of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.
MEDICAL
CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses. Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine. Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1
Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang. HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong. Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.
Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists
2
f Happ o r l d Aoward for “Excellence iyn DeSn m i l e s . . . W es tistry” by Viet e 013 Vietnam nam Economic Tim h 2 T , 2012, 0, 01
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2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake)) 4 Dist.3, HCMC / Tel: 38.22.62.22 - 38.23.92.94 starlightdental@gmail.com / www.starlightdental.net
com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm. International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.
Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.
SKINCARE
The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products. Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.
listings
family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student. Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six. Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.
BABY EQUIPMENT Belli Blossom
4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others. Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps. Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.
www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.
EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.
The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB
Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices. Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.
CLOTHES
Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices. DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock. Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456
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Diploma Programme (DP).
kids corner
British International
School BIS Inspiration www.bisvietnam.com
Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools Recognised, Valued and Respected Around the World
was hatched
New Arrivals By Gemma Mullen As if being pregnant weren’t daunting enough for first-time mothers, fast forward nine months and things can get even scarier once the little one has arrived. Now that the baby is here, what’s right and what’s wrong? There are so many questions to worry about, so here is some key information and tips to help put new mamas and papas at ease. Spotty skin Many new parents become concerned about small spots that appear on their newborn bubba. The spots are usually small and white and appear on a baby’s face. They are called milia and usually appear within the first few weeks of birth. Don’t worry, milia spots are harmless, cause no discomfort to the baby and clear up on their own by around six weeks. Changing eye colour Black and Asian babies who are born with brown eyes will usually have a stable eye colour. White babies born with grey or dark blue eyes will often see their eyes change to green, hazel or brown. This is completely normal, and these changes usually will have taken place by the time the baby is nine months old. Cradle cap Your baby is suffering from cradle cap if he has a dry, flaky scalp, which is sometimes yellowish and crusty. Cradle cap is harmless, it doesn’t usually bother the baby and it normally clears up between the ages of six to 12 months. There is no definitive treatment
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high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.
for cradle cap but you could try rubbing olive oil onto the scalp, leaving it for 15 minutes and then using a baby-soft brush to gently brush out the flakes. Always wash the baby’s scalp afterwards with a mild baby shampoo, as olive oil can clog up pores. Bathing Many parents assume it is good to be bathing their newborns every day, but the American Academy of Paediatrics recommends bathing babies just two or three times a week for the first year, as frequent baths can dry out their skin. Colic Colic is one of infancy’s most dreaded conditions. Luckily, it is a short-term problem and usually targets a baby during his first month. This can be a tiring and difficult time for everyone, as babies with colic tend to cry inconsolably for up to three hours. Some telltale signs of colic are an enlarged tummy, passing wind while crying, and a baby pulling his or her legs up or extending them. It is possible to soothe colic — baby massage and anti-colic teats are good starting points — but there are no single treatments. I’m afraid that, this time, you just have to rough it out. Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.
ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today. German International School 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.gis.vn A German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students from 2-16yrs. Its curriculum is based on international recognised Primary Years Programmes, Middle Years Programmes and IB Diploma Programmes of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System. International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard. Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs. Renaissance International School
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a
RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play. Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn. Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.
ENTERTAINMENT
Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes. Toyville Tel: 09 18 33 97 34 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Wide selection of branded toys and games, from the usual suspects to the real hard to find. Specialises in products for 3- to 10-year-old children.
PARTIES
Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more. Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.
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listings
SOS
living
An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available. Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.
COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org
Kicking the Habit By Dr Claire Uebbing There is enough propaganda out there for people to know that smoking is bad for health, but why are there still so many smokers? For most, it is because of the addictive properties of nicotine. For others, it is because they have developed habits around smoking — like after eating, while having a drink at a bar, during a break at work — to let off steam. Just like nicotine, this habit can be a powerful one to break. If it weren’t for the smoke, cigarettes would be relatively harmless. Nicotine does cause blood vessel constriction and reduce appetite, and has the unique property of being both a stimulant and a relaxant depending on the dose, but these effects last for one to two hours. It is hard to overdose, but leaves you craving more quickly. Cigarette smoke is, however, a major carcinogen. Tobacco smoke contains a deadly mix of more than 7,000 chemicals; hundreds are toxic and about 70 can cause cancer. And the sooner you quit smoking the better. If you can quit, you can look forward to more money in your pocket, a longer life and, for women, a lower risk of infertility and low birth-weight babies. To quit, you need to be ready. If you are not committed to the change it will be very difficult, so before quitting you need to know why you do it. A lot of people use smoking
as a crutch to help them relax or deal with stressful situations. Others use it as a way to finish a meal, pass the time or socialise. Find an alternative to this activity, such as exercise, meditation or prayer, listening to music, writing a journal, or socialising more actively. Next, set a date to stop and let your friends and family know your intention. Many smokers have friends who smoke, and you will do yourself no favours if you have to say no to 10 friendly cigarette offers on your first day of quitting. You can quit gradually, by reducing the number of cigarettes each day, or you can quit all at once. There are a number of aids, including nicotine replacement patches and gum, as well as tablets like Champix or Zyban, that work on your brain to decrease cravings, making it easier to quit. Electronic cigarettes are also widely available. Most contain nicotine replacement and heated water vapor as ‘the smoke’. There is not enough data yet to determine how safe these are since low levels of carcinogens have been detected in the vapor, but they could be less harmful than traditional cigarettes. Quitting smoking is a difficult thing to do, but it is probably the surest way to guarantee you a healthier life. So take the first step.
British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi. Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com
CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses. Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City. Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1
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Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor. SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.
CONSULTING
Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment. Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops. Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets. Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology. IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1
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4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.
finance
Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam. Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.
Business With Friends By Paul McLardie As the saying goes, you can choose your friends but not your family. But can you pick your ideal business partner? Opening your own business can be one of the most liberating experiences you’ll ever have. You no longer have a boss looking over your shoulder and your future is now in your own hands. When many decide to take this step, they think it makes sense to partner up with a friend — someone you trust, with whom you can split the setup costs and risks. But does it really work? If you are considering starting a business with a friend and you want to make sure it succeeds in the long run and you stay friends, consider a few things. Before you start you should write a complete business plan. Not only does this encompass marketing and the financials, but it also should include space to answer the following questions: What can you bring to the business? From the onset, it is important to understand what is expected of each of you now and once things are running. Using your own experience, qualifications and skill set, write a list of your responsibilities and when to complete them. What do you want out of the business? Ask yourself
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this and explain it to your partner. You also should discuss what you consider to be a successful business and what would be a disaster. You need to know when to consider the venture a failure and pull out. In other words, when and how would you get paid, and when do you cut the cord and stop bleeding money into the business? How will you resolve disputes? No matter how great your friendship, situations will arise where you don’t see eye to eye. All parties need to know this will happen and it may take more than a beer in your local pub to resolve it. A small issue can turn into a big one very quickly. Never let these build up to a point where they will blow up in your face. Sometimes you will need to swallow your pride for the good of the business, but you need an avenue to relay your issues to each other. Remember, you are going into business with a friend and no matter the outcome your relationship will change. You need to decide if you really want to risk losing a friend over the business. Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. You can contact him at paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.
International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.
Kiko Flame OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0902 636 950 www.ngonluakiko.com Recently established graphic design studio employing highly skilled, well disciplined artists, graphic designers and web developers. We specialize in creative design for print media and web, offering you reliable and very affordable design services. Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting. TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting. Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies. Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.
DECOR
Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters,
brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches. Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves. Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like. Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25. Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs. OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm. Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh. Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags. Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.
ELECTRONICS
Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English. Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators. Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories. Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty. Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.
FURNITURE
Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black. AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.
Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.
Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English. Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe. Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.
LINH‘S WHITE
37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces. Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for
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people matter
commercial projects and home use.
mergers & acquistions.
The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.
LIGHTING
The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.
INSURANCE
Bad for Business By Gary Woollacott This month’s topic comes from a reader who lamented the fact that there is so much discourteous behaviour involved with communication these days, especially where business is involved. Much of this bad behaviour revolves around the mobile devices most of us carry. While this technology is certainly useful, actions such as checking messages or sending a text while in a meeting or at dinner are inexcusably rude — but still far too common. There also seems to be a growing number of people who use email and SMS as a shield in order to avoid confrontation or, oftentimes, work. By sending out copious emails or texts when a quick phone call would do the trick in a fraction of the time, these people try to give the impression they are busy and indispensable. In fact, the opposite is true and an astute manager should recognise it. Technology of course has its merits, but thoughtless business behaviour shouldn’t be ignored. In business, good communication between companies and clients is essential, but it often falls by the wayside. The overuse of impersonal technology certainly contributes to this, but the inability of many employees to communicate with clients is also a major factor. If you are hoping
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for your company to do international business, then your employees need to speak the international language: English. If your clients are mostly foreigners or those who represent foreign companies, doesn’t it make sense to have your frontline staff speak at least some English? If you are running a foreign enterprise and your staff is unable to communicate with clients, then it’s time to wake up and get your house in order. Decent English is vital if you work for a foreign company and want to be taken seriously in international business. One last pet peeve of mine is the bad habit of not returning phone calls. Cold calls from someone you’ve never met are different, but if it’s a call from another professional with whom you’ve done business in the past and will likely meet again in the future, you need to return their calls. Don’t waste other people’s time, it only takes a minute to return a call. As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here. Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.
Blue Cross Vietnam 8th floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.
LEGAL
Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam. Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam. Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam. Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets. Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others. Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects. Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and
Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship. Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.
MOTORBIKES
Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode. Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards. Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids. Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.
REAL ESTATE
Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city. HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.
Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.
www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.
Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.
Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.
Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service. Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.
RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079
Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net. TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume
writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.
RELOCATION AGENTS
AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, Fax: +84 8 3521 0710 www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide. Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available. Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh
Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information. UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.
JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage. Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.
STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass. Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered. Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.
Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you. Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle-in when you arrive. Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone. Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.
Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com
And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.
Go knowing
www.crownrelo.com/vietnam asialife HCMC 75
femme fashion
listings
fashion ACCESSORIES
Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.
Fashion Rules: No 1, Legs or Cleavage? By Christina Yu If you ever ask a designer, stylist, fashion blogger, or celebrity whether there are rules in fashion, the standard answer is almost always no. One is supposed to be adventurous, mix and match to ‘discover’ his or her unique, individual style whilst having fun in the process. On the other hand, the world of high fashion always claims to be breaking rules. So how can one attempt to break rules if there are supposed to be none to start with? The truth is we all like to think we are fashion individuals, but deep down there are certain basic rules that give us a sense of security. And one of these rules that all women should follow is: legs or cleavage, never both. This rule dictates that showing off one or the other can be sexy, but showing both is cheap. No one with any sense of style would like to see it all at once (unless you are in the X-rated industry). An outfit only needs one focal point and you certainly don’t want different parts of it competing for attention. If you decide to show off one or the other, it is best to create a little mystique with your beautiful body parts. A low cut dress that shows a maximum of 10cm cleavage is very sexy, but a strapless dress that let them all hang out is vulgar. Most girls also tend to
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overlook their arms and shoulders, which can make all the difference. If you don’t have well-toned arms or great sets of shoulders it’s best to wear a low cut dress with little cap sleeves or a necklace that actually helps bring attention to your nice cleavage. The same goes for a short dress. Anything that barely covers your bum should be treated as lingerie. The standard rule is that a dress should be a maximum of 15-20cm above the knee. And never wear a super-tightfitted mini dress, no matter how well-shaped your body is. Instead, go for a fitted, long dress with a sideslit a la Jennifer Aniston — equally sexy but definitely more elegant. The above is even emerging as a rule for men. The deep V-neck T-shirt, modelled by the likes of Russell Brand or David Beckham, is fast becoming a men’s fashion trend to show off chest muscles. But pair one with shorts and it is just too much flesh that immediately takes away all the macho sex appeal. Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ ipa-nima.com or visit Ipanima.com.
Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices. Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night. Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes. Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses. Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available. Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags. Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles. Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1
Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.
ACTIVE WEAR
Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes. TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.
READY TO WEAR unisex FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices. L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade. Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres. Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.
men
Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong. Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear. Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and
unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.
women
Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories. BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches. ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste. Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear. Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses. Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear. Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand. Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688
valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.
97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.
Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market. Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.
SHOES
TAILORS
Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.
Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.
Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.
Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.
Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices. Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.
Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.
Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.
Fabric Street
4HE &LU DAYS
4HE 3HOT SECONDS
Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between. Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists. Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads. Star Polo
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- www.linhfurniture.com
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Henry Saiz at Cargo
Photos by Lee Starnes.
78 asialife HCMC
Cono Sur Wine Dinner at Boomarang
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DISTRICT 4
radar Unstick that song
Unhearit.com Surely all of us have been afflicted by some horrible tune that rattled around our head for days. This clever site can help by using “the latest in reverseauditory-melodic-unstickifcation technology” to get whatever song you have stuck in your head out. Despite the fancy description, all this page really does is play another catchy song to try to replace the one currently annoying you. Some are quite good, particularly a mash-up of ‘Billie Jean’ and Daft Punk’s ‘Get Lucky’. This is a godsend in Saigon, home to the Wall’s ice cream song and countless versions of ‘Gangnam Style'.
A manly escape
Gentlemint.com Social media is undoubtedly useful, but the myriad websites and apps that fall under this category can also be extremely annoying. For example, how many pictures of cats or girls showing off their new haircut in a mirror does Instagram really need? Gentlemint offers an escape from this, as it claims to be “a mint of manly things”. The site is similar to Pinterest, but focuses on things men would enjoy. Examples include a picture of a DeLorean converted into a monster truck under the title, ‘We’re Going to Need a Bigger Flux Capacitor’, and an article explaining how to tap a beer keg with a detonator cord. You’re welcome.
A snapshot of humanity
Beforeidieiwantto.org Though the name may sound a bit grim, Before I Die I Want To is actually an uplifting look into humanity. The site features a huge collection of Polaroid pictures taken by an American photographer in several US states, India, and a hospice. Each photograph is accompanied by a caption of what the person in the picture wants to accomplish before he or she dies. Unsurprisingly these aspirations cover a wide range, from “be proud of myself” to “jam with Van Morrison” or “kick a monster”. This is an ongoing project, and in the future the photographer will contact all the people in her pictures to find out if they’ve achieved their dreams.
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soundfix album review
Arctic Monkeys AM
by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen
Yoko Ono Plastic Ono Band
Rapsody
John Lennon once called her “the world’s most famous unknown artist”. Everyone knows Yoko Ono from her marriage to the Beatles musician, but how many people are familiar with her work? Now 80 years old, Ono continues to create art — audio, visual and performance-based — as she has for six decades. Take Me to the Land of Hell is her latest album, proving that Ono and her band are as mad-cap as ever. The music is a rollercoaster of kookiness and caprice; sometimes it sounds a bit scary, but you might also find it kinda fun. On this record, Ono leads you by the hand through chaotic opener ‘Moonbeams’ — try it once, you might not want to again — onwards to ‘Bad Dancer’ — a catchy collaboration with Beastie Boys’ Mike D and AdRock — and stopping by playful piano-led ditty ‘Leaving Tim’. A typical octogenarian Ono is not, but then again being atypical is what she’s always strived for.
It’s 2013 and it’s still a big deal when a female rapper breaks out. Gender equality is not the hip-hop scene’s forte. Aside from the heyday of Lil Kim, Foxy Brown and Missy Elliott in the 1990s, there’s been a dearth of women emcees making waves in the mainstream. So, even though we should be judging Rapsody only by her flow, it’s hard not to have respect for the fact that she doesn’t have a Y chromosome. Recalling LL Cool J and her self-professed inspiration Lauryn Hill, the North Carolinian’s approach taps into the chilled vibe of golden age hip-hop rather than the in-your-face party jams of her contemporaries Nicki Minaj and Azealia Banks. She’s relaxed, which means songs can sometimes feel monotonous, but Rapsody’s mix-tape shows she isn’t out to force her way to approbation. That’s refreshing, no matter what gender she is.
She Got Game
King Krule
6 Feet Beneath the Moon
Take Me to the Land of Hell Scrolling through my iTunes, I revisited the music I was listening to 10 years ago — The Libertines, The Strokes, Razorlight, The White Stripes. I realised how much I missed the spirit of post-punk revival indie rock. So I breathed a sigh of relief when the new Arctic Monkeys album came along. Not only does the genre persevere but I can still relate to it. The Yorkshire foursome’s fifth record is their best in recent years, demonstrating a level of musical maturity without losing the youthful insolence that propelled their 2006 debut. Alex Turner’s Sheffield-accented vocals uphold the group’s trademark sound, capturing a mix of wistfulness, self-doubt and charisma. There are a lot of question marks in their song titles, which is fitting given what Arctic Monkeys seem to be asking. Are we still relevant? Is there space for rock and roll romantics in this crazy modern world? My answer is yes.
84 asialife HCMC
Warning, spoiler alert ahead. For those of you who don’t already know King Krule, listen to one of his songs right now. Here’s what you’ll be hearing: generally minimal accompaniment and a dry baritone that’s being heralded as that of a British Tom Waits. Not quite what you’d expect from a skinny, redheaded 19-year-old kid. Sounding beyond his years is an understatement for Archy Marshall, the boy behind the big voice. But surprises aside, Marshall delivers weighty music on his first album as King Krule, having previously performed as Zoo Kid since 2010. There are hints of jazz and folk in the melodies, and sometimes his love for rap reveals itself, such as on the rhythmic ‘Neptune Estate’. It’s not always easy to tell what Marshall’s saying with that growling vocal style, but it comes off both confessional and compelling.
endorsed
xoneFM top ten Hot 10 this last
week week
title
artist Far East Movement feat Riff Raff One Direction Lady Gaga Demi Lovato Katy Perry Britney Spears Miley Cyrus Maroon 5 Taylor Swift John Newman
1
new
Beautiful Goodbye
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2 6 5 4 new new 10 3 9
Best Song Ever Applause Made in the USA Roar Work (Bi**h) Work Wrecking Ball Beautiful Goodbye Girl At Home Love Me Again
UK Top 10 this last
week week
title
1
new
Talk Dirty
2 3 4 5 6 7
1 new 2 new 4 5
8 9
3 9
Roar It's My Party Counting Stars You Make Me Wake Me Up Hold On We're Going Home Burn Same Love
10
6
Sonnentanz (Sun Don't Shine)
artist Jason Derulo ft 2 Chainz Katy Perry Jessie J One Republic AVICII AVICII Drake ft Majid Jordan Ellie Goulding Macklemore/Lewis/ Lambert Klangkarussell ft Will Heard
AUSTRALIA Top 10 this last
week week
title
1 2 3 4
2 3 1 4
Roar Wrecking Ball Lets Get Redicolous Talk Dirty
5
5
Summertime Sadness
6 7 8 9
7 8 6 14
10
10
Something I need Wake Me Up Love Me Again Hold On We're Going Home Berzerk
artist Katy Perry Miley Cyrus RedFoo Jason Derulo ft 2 Chainz Lana Del Rey vs Cedric Gervais One Republic AVICII John Newman Drake ft Majid Jordan Eminem
VICE By Michael Tatarski For some reason I always thought of VICE as nothing more than a ‘lad mag’, not really worth checking out. I suppose this assumption stemmed from the name, and until recently I never actually gave it a shot to see if this was even true. All I needed was a few minutes browsing the magazine’s website, VICE. com, to realise I was completely wrong. It is, if nothing else, a place where interesting stories you didn’t know needed reporting are reported. Not all of the articles on VICE will appeal to the average reader, but if you are looking for something outside of the ordinary, this is a great place to start. It covers everything from music and fashion to current events and tech. A few headlines include ‘Moroccans Are Sick of Their Country’s Pedophile Problem’, ‘You Can Get Away with Murder When Your Dad Is an Afghan Warlord’, and ‘The Abortion Freedom Riders’. The topics are extremely diverse and span a broad geographic area. Journalism perfectionists would surely find fault in some of the stories, but they are entertaining, informative and usually quite illuminating. My favourite section of the website is under the ‘Travel’ tab, where page after page of videos and stories highlight the more bizarre and possibly
disturbing parts of the world. One recent article features Syria’s Ministry of Tourism, which is still promoting the country’s attractions, touting it as an international tourism destination, even as a horrific civil war ravages the nation. A standout video is the ‘VICE Guide to North Korea’, in which VICE founder Shane Smith visits the hermit kingdom with a cameraman who was only allowed to use a simple point-and-shoot. As expected, the two visitors are accompanied by guides the entire time, and are confined to a strict schedule every day. The three-part video underscores just how bizarre the reclusive nation is. In one part, Smith is taken to a restaurant that could seat 200 people, but he is the only person eating. The itinerary brings him to the USS Puebla, an American warship captured in the 1950s, where propaganda videos rail against the despised United States. Afterwards, Smith exits past locals who have just seen the same videos and eye him warily. It makes for fascinating viewing. Smith also sings ‘Anarchy in the UK’ at a karaoke parlor, much to the confusion of his government minders. If you’re looking for an edgier news website to add to your daily reading, VICE comes highly recommended.
asialife HCMC 85
boxoffice
Jobs
Gravity
Machete Kills
Escape Plan
The extraordinary story of Steve Jobs (Ashton Kutcher), the original innovator and groundbreaking entrepreneur who let nothing stand in the way of greatness. This biopic traces the Apple co-founder’s career from his early years working out of a garage to his rise as one of the computing industry’s most innovative figures. Jobs was a controversial figure and the film depicts his turbulent story as he blazed a trail that changed technology — and the world — forever.
This film stars Academy Awardwinners Sandra Bullock and George Clooney in a heartpounding thriller that pulls you into the infinite and unforgiving realm of deep space. Bullock plays Dr Ryan Stone, a brilliant medical engineer on her first shuttle mission with veteran astronaut Matt Kowalsky (Clooney). But on a seemingly routine spacewalk, disaster strikes. The shuttle is destroyed, leaving Stone and Kowalsky completely alone — tethered to nothing but each other and spiraling out into the blackness.
Danny Trejo returns as former Mexican Federale agent Machete in this follow-up from Robert Rodriguez. This time, our anti-hero is recruited by the US president (Charlie Sheen) for a mission that would be impossible for any mortal man: he must take down a madman revolutionary and eccentric billionaire arms dealer (Mel Gibson) who is intent to start a nuclear war and spread anarchy across the planet. Michelle Rodriguez and Jessica Alba reprise their roles in this cartoonish and hyper-violent film.
One of the world's foremost authorities on structural security agrees to take on one last job: breaking out of an ultra-secret, high-tech facility called “The Tomb”. Deceived and wrongly imprisoned, Ray Breslin (Sylvester Stallone) must recruit fellow inmate Emil Rottmayer (Arnold Schwarzenegger) to help devise a daring, nearly impossible plan to escape from the most protected and fortified prison ever built. Escape Plan is the first pairing of action legends Stallone and Schwarzenegger in leading roles.
Opening Dates CINEMAS Megastar and Galaxy cinemas Megastar.vn
Galaxy cinema Galaxycine.vn
86 asialife HCMC
Jobs (4 Oct) Gravity (11 Oct) Escape Plan (25 Oct) Gravity (11 Oct) Machete Kills (18 Oct) Escape Plan (25 Oct)
The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.
bookshelf Command and Control: Nuclear Weapons, the Damascus Incident, and the Illusion of Safety
MaddAddam
Eric Schlosser
Margaret Atwood
Penguin Press
Nan A. Talese/Doubleday
After highlighting the dangers of the food industry in Fast Food Nation, Eric Schlosser turns his gaze on another threat to our wellbeing — nuclear weapons. And in a way, it’s fitting. Like fast food, nuclear weapons are something that we know are potentially very bad, but we might not understand exactly how at risk we are. With his fastidious approach to research, Schlosser reveals several instances in which nuclear bombs have nearly been detonated by accident. The sense of urgency surrounding nukes has faded since the cold war, but Schlosser sees this calm as all the more worrying.
The Lowland Jhumpa Lahiri Knopf
Jhumpa Lahiri’s latest novel is a tale of two brothers. Whereas older brother Subhash leaves Calcutta to study science in America, Udayan remains and becomes a passionate advocate for change in Indian politics. The context is the 1960s, and Udayan becomes swept up by the Naxalite movement against the country’s growing inequality. When Udayan is killed in political violence, Subhash tries to do the right thing by marrying his brother’s pregnant wife. Like her Pulitzer Prize-winning novel The Namesake, Lahiri composes a poignant, intricate story that explores eternal themes of family, responsibility and love.
Often seen as fodder for high school geeks and conspiracy theorists, science fiction is a genre relegated to the side aisles. But the possibilities of sci-fi for social critique should not be underestimated. With MaddAddam, Margaret Atwood concludes her post-apocalyptic, dystopian trilogy, which began with 2003’s Oryx and Crake. Set in a disquieting but not-quite-so-distant future, the story takes place after a synthetic disease has destroyed humanity and a new species of designer beings struggle to understand their origins. The Canadian author proves her storytelling abilities yet again in this intriguing tale of caution.
Bleeding Edge Thomas Pynchon Penguin Press
Now 76 years old, Thomas Pynchon proves that his writing talent endures. Forty years since publishing his tour de force, Gravity’s Rainbow, the reclusive novelist releases his eighth work of fiction. Set in New York City in 2001, Bleeding Edge follows Maxine Tarnow, a fraud investigation agency owner who’s not afraid to use unorthodox methods. A job sends her down into a rabbit hole of mysterious events, as the tragedy of September 11 looms on the horizon. Like any Pynchon novel, cultural references come a-plenty and a postmodernist style will keep readers on their toes.
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ODD ONE OUT Desperate to rekindle her love of running, Dana Filek-Gibson reluctantly signs up for a half-marathon in Da Nang, where her faith is restored by a bunch of men in short shorts.
I began to have visions of motorists texting and driving their way across the course while race officials took naps.
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If you want to send me into a depression, bring up ketchup, sunscreen or Mexican food. While Vietnam has afforded me many valuable, life-changing experiences, there are a handful of things in this country that, despite my deep longing, are just not the same. Sure, dozens of restaurants in the city claim to sell ‘burritos’ but, as most North Americans can attest, this is a cuisine yet to be perfected in our hemisphere. The same goes for ketchup; unless I have the opportunity to meet and interview the bottle from which it came, I will no longer even consider the condiment. As for sunscreen, anyone who requires an SPF higher than 15 knows that finding real sun protection in Vietnam means offering up your life savings for a bottle small enough to carry on an airplane. For all the western creature comforts we are lucky to find in Saigon, these are a few things I've had to learn to live without. Likewise, when it came to running in Saigon, I had almost accepted it as a lost love, too. Take a look at Saigon’s streets and you can understand why this is a difficult hobby to maintain. Because I grew up with a father who was visibly offended by treadmills, gyms don't do much for me, either. Outdoor running is the closest thing to religion in my family. On my last Christmas before moving to Vietnam, the Filek-Gibsons, decked out in our finest spandex tights, celebrated the birth of Jesus not by exchanging gifts or visiting church, but by exercising together. My parents have devoted an entire room in their house to stockpiling electrolyte pills and recovery drinks so
that they will still be able to get in a workout once the world has ended. My father, with a crazy, hypoglycemic glint in his eye, has finished an Ironman triathlon — three times. After the first go-around, he was so enthused about having exercised for 12 hours straight that he signed up to do it again, and again. Simply put, running events are a big deal to my family, and if Vietnam was going to hold one then I was not sure I could bear it if the race proved disappointing. Which is why, at the last minute, I began to regret my registration for Da Nang's first half-marathon. My only reason for signing up was in solidarity with a friend, and perhaps some nostalgia for an earlier, happier time when I was surrounded by people who spoke intelligently of negative splits and hamstring stretches and Band-Aids over their nipples. It would be just like the old days, I told myself. Everyone would wear short shorts, people would do funny stretches and at least one runner would don a ridiculous costume. You can’t, after all, have a road race without a few characters. No sooner had I paid the registration fee, however, than a creeping doubt emerged. I began to have visions of motorists texting and driving their way across the course while race officials took naps. What if the run turned out to be only a few people and none of us were wearing a stupid hat? By the morning of the race, all I could think of was how so many things that I had hoped would live up to my expectations had tragically failed. What if this whole race was a bust? What if the timing chips didn't work?
What if terrible, upbeat, sugary pop music wasn’t playing at the announcer’s station? But as the participants gathered at the start line, I looked around and my worries receded. It was short shorts as far as the eye could see. The Taiwanese delegation, covered head-to-toe in spandex, adjusted their brimmed hats, the kind with a billowing, shoulderlength cape attached. Odd, catatonic stretches continued right up until the gun sounded and, as the sun rose over the Da Nang beach, I caught sight of a man in a non la and a backpack, complete with a large Vietnamese flag trailing behind him. These were the people I was hoping to meet. With the entire Da Nang police force on hand to cordon off our route, spectators began to gather by the street, slightly bewildered by the parade of sweaty faces lumbering toward the bridge. Even so, we had cheerleaders. Old ladies fresh from a morning of sword-dancing in the park gathered at the curb, whooping and smiling for every runner who passed. The man in the non la was praised as a king. To my everlasting surprise, nobody even tried to drag-race down the empty road beside us. Roughly two hours after the race began I reached the final stretch, dizzy and elated — and not just because of an excess of endorphins. Despite my lack of faith, the city of Da Nang had prevailed. I sped forward, crossing the shadeless finish line, my mispronounced name echoing from the loudspeakers. Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.
This Country Life It is the simplicity of rural life that Walter Pearson loves — and the low prices don’t hurt either.
We have no air-conditioning. Electricity is only for fans and fluorescent lights. Our power bill is about VND 350,000 a month. We cook with gas and have a solar water heater. We only drive motorbikes. I am very proud of our family’s small carbon footprint. However, I doubt if anyone in our broader family knows what that is. Worse, I don’t even know how to say it in Vietnamese. So I can’t boast — except in English, like I am doing now. Anyway, the solar water heater started to leak. The man came out from Binh Long to our little hamlet, three kilometres away, crawled up to the heater perched four metres above the ground, and fixed the leaking pipe. It cost VND 80,000. No fuss, no bother, next to no cost. All very simple. Clothing is very straightforward in these parts. When I get up in the morning, I just slip on a pair of shorts. I could go days without ever having to don a shirt, except sometimes it does get a bit cold in the evenings. A pair of plastic
flip-flops do for shoes. When I go into town I do have to dress up a bit. Which means putting on a shirt. Dressing for special events like weddings is also simple. A pair of long pants, shirt with long sleeves — tucked in of course — a pair of sandals, no socks. Easy. And there is a shop for everything. I don’t have to go to a big hardware store and wander up and down the aisles till I find what I want. I just go to the shop that sells rubber straps, springs and screws, buy what I need, then go to the shop that sells plastic sheeting, and so on. Once I foolishly bought some material at the An Dong markets in District 5 in the city and paid VND 1.3 million. I bought the same amount of similar material here in the bush for VND 600,000. I rarely spend more than VND 30,000 on labour for bike repairs. Sometimes it does take hours, but I can’t complain. Although it is nice, it is not just the costs in the country-
side, but the simplicity of doing things, that makes life here so appealing. Grandma Thao has a breakfast joint we eat at regularly. It is just down the dirt road from our place. I slip on some shorts and we take my son down there on the bike sans helmets, just soft caps. People would laugh at us if we wore helmets, according to the family. Vietnamese call this type of eatery a tiem. It consists of three stainless-steel folding tables, 15 or so plastic stools, a makeshift wood fuel stove and a serving-cum-presentationcum-money-taking stand that has been slightly elevated by a rough extension to each leg. Only the serving and preparation area has a tiled floor. The tables are under the roof on the dirt. It is a very simple lowcapital business. If Grandma is a bit busy when we arrive, my wife will help by clearing the tables or getting the green leaves for the soup. If the hu tieu is gone, there is always bun rieu — no wimpy pho for breakfast out
here in the wild borderlands. Dogs and chickens wander around the tables. Used napkins and toothpicks are just thrown under the table. When the morning’s serving is over, the tables are folded up, the ground swept and a chain link makeshift wire gate pulled across the front. The soups cost VND 25,000. They are nutritious and tasty. And in all the time we have been eating at Grandma Thao’s, I’ve never gotten sick from this humble little kitchen. My wife wants to go to Australia and open a tiem selling Vietnamese soup. She says people will love them. She’s right, but she has no idea just how complicated and expensive that would be in Australia. To her, this simple and inexpensive life we lead is the norm. To me, it is the dream.
Walter Pearson is an Australian expat, tour guide, former journalist and war veteran. He lives with his family in the small town of Binh Long. asialife HCMC 89
pub quiz Spooky 1. Michael Myers is a fictional character from which series of films? 2. Who flew the Spirit of St Louis from New York to Paris? 3. What term is given to someone who writes books, articles, stories, reports or other texts that are officially credited to another person? 4. Who had a worldwide hit with the song ‘Zombie’ in 1994? 5. Which Chilean author wrote The House of Spirits?
Can 6. Hornbills are found in Africa and Asia. Which largebilled birds are found in the Americas? 7. Where is St Peter’s Basilica, one of the largest churches in the world? 8. Which Southern French resort holds an annual film festival? 9. In Star Trek, on which planet did Mr Spock grow up? 10. Which Italian region is home to Chianti wine?
Can't 11. Who, in 1995, said, “When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea?” 12. England has counties, Germany has Länder, what does Switzerland have? 13. Which punk single begins: “There’s no point in asking, you’ll get no reply?” 14. Which alternative word for werewolf comes from Greek words meaning wolf man? 15. Which Chinese dialect comes from the Chinese province of Guangdong?
Raymond Briggs’s 1977 graphic novel? 20. Which 1994 romantic comedy was the highestgrossing British film in cinema history at the time?
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Games 21. What was the job of Mellors in Lady Chatterley's Lover? 22. Which TV series is set on the fictional continents of Westeros and Essos? 23. How many pawns are on the board at the start of a chess game? 24. The terms blitz, scrunge, squop, squidger and boondock are all used in what game? 25. “The game’s afoot” is a line for which Shakespearean king?
Celebrity Vampires
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Pub Quiz Answers
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1) Halloween 2) Charles Lindbergh 3) Ghost-writer 4) The Cranberries 5) Isabelle Allende 6) Toucans 7) Vatican City 8) Cannes 9) Vulcan 10) Tuscany 11) Eric Catona 12) Cantons 13) Pretty Vacant 14) Lycanthrope 15) Cantonese 16) Walks tightropes17) Simon and Garfunkel 18) Funicular 19) Fungus the Bogeyman 20) Four Weddings and a Funeral 21) Gamekeeper 22) Game of Thrones 23) 16 24) Tiddlywinks 25) Henry V 26) Sting 27) Megan Fox 28) Natalie Portman 29) Mick Jagger 30) Vladimir Putin
16. What does a funambulist do? 17. Which American duo began performing under the name Tom and Jerry in 1957? 18. What term is given to a cable railway on a steep slope? 19. Which nocturnal green creature came alive in
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