To Be, or not to be.
ISBN: 978 - 604 - 905 - 505-8
Why we love
mistakes
Because at ISHCMC we understand that mistakes are stepping stones to genuine learning. Today’s students need to do more than memorise information in traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart of the ISHCMC philosophy.
Come and see the difference we can make in your child’s life.
International School Ho Chi Minh City 28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com
Nathan, Grade 1 ISHCMC student since 2009.
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Asialifemagazine.com
CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM
JULY 2014
VOLUME 76
30
FRONT
FOOD
EVENTS ............................................................. 0 6 NEWS ............................................................... 0 8
boom boom burgers Mind-blowing burgers ........................................... omg Spectacular rooftop views and fine dining ................ hideaway cafĂŠ A local haunt receives a welcome revamp ................ crab shack Fresh seafood and posh cajun cuisine ......................
5 WAYS TO BEAT THE HEAT .......................... 0 9 Q &A With Peter Vidotto ................................................ 1 2 PHOTO ESSAY Skate Trip ............................................................. 1 4
C OV E R STO RY TO BE OR NOT TO BE
Investigating Vietnam's high abortion rates ................. 1 8
F E AT U R E S Something brewing
Tasting craft beers from Platinum beverages .............. 2 4
YOUNG MINDS
A new experimental space for young artists .............. 2 6
LOVE AT FIRST SWIPE
Playing with local dating apps .................................. 2 8
the drones are coming
Unmanned aerial vehicles in Vietnam ....................... 3 0
T R AV E L wild mekong
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STYLE & DESIGN THE V.I.P VAN
Luxury limousine vans from HTH corporation ......... 4 2
dieu anh
A rejuvenating resort collection .............................. 4 4
COLUMNS IMBIBE ................................................................ 5 0 LOCAL EATS ..................................................... 5 2 FITNESS ............................................................. 5 4 PERSONAL FINANCE ...................................... 5 8 HOME IMPROVEMENT .................................... 6 0 HOT PROPERTY ............................................... 6 1 PEOPLE MATTER .............................................. 6 2
Countryside adventures on vintage vespas ............... 3 2
FASHION RULES .............................................. 6 4
slow boat to phnom penh An old world cruise in Cambodia ............................ 3 4
LETTER FROM HANOI .................................... 7 7
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odd one out .............................................. 7 6
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events Five Years at Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Craig Thomas Gallery celebrates its fifth anniversary in Saigon with Coming of Age, a group exhibition featuring painting, sculpture and installation by 14 Vietnamese artists. The artists on show include those who have been with the gallery since the beginning in 2009, such as Lieu Nguyen, Lim Khim Ka Ty, Tran Quoc Tuan and Bui Tien Tuan; those who have joined later on, like Pham Huy Thong, Bui Thanh Tam, Nguyen The Hung, Ngo Van Sac and Tran Minh Tam; and those whom CTG will be working with in the near future, such as established sculptor Bui Hai Son, expressionist painter Doan Hoang Lam and digital painter and illustrator Khoa Le. The exhibition runs through 18 July. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, D1 and is open 12pm-6pm Tuesday-Saturday and 1pm-5pm Sunday.
NOW UNTIL
18 July
arts & Entertainment
Image courtesy of Craig Thomas Gallery
Summer Galleria at Sàn Art Sàn Art, 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh District It’s rainy season in Saigon, but it’s still summer for some. Sàn Art’s Summer Galleria is a showcase that focuses on ideas of heat, light and transformation. It includes the famous installation Lotusland (1999) belonging to celebrated artist and Sàn Art co-founder, Dinh Q Le. Lotusland features ceramic figures of conjoined twins standing in lotus flowers and references Vietnamese rural folklore. Other works by artists Le Hoang Bich Phuong, Ngoc Nau, Nguyen Huu Tram Kha, Phan Quang, Sandrine Llouquet, Tran Xuan Anh and Truong Cong Tung will also be on display through 31 July. Sàn Art is at 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh District.
NOW UNTIL
31 July
arts & Entertainment
Image courtesy of San Art
Escape Summer 2014 The Goldville, Lot 13, Tan Trao Street, D7 One of the biggest dance festivals in Vietnam, this summer’s Escape Summer 2014 on 12 July in Phu My Hung will celebrate the World Cup with the theme Stay Thirsty 'Carnival'. The event features a line-up of local DJs and a different mix of international DJs to perform a variety of dance music genres, from pulsating techno, house, EDM and electro to dubstep, drum and bass, hip-hop and more. A pool party, foam party, motor show and other outdoor entertainment such as dancers performing in carnival costumes are some of the highlights to look forward to. The festival takes place from 12pm until midnight (with free beer from 12pm-8pm) at The Goldville, Lot 13, Tan Trao Street, D7, next to the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre behind Parkson. Buy tickets at Escape-party.com.
12 July 12pm Image courtesy of Escape Party
DANCE & performance
For more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:
Asialifemagazine.com
This Month's Cover: To Be, or not to be.
Art Direction: Sarah Joanne Smith Photography: Vinh Dao
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Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com
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Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com
AmCham Palooza at Pullman Saigon Pullman Saigon, 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1 The American Chamber of Commerce (AmCham) is continuing its series of monthly informal networking events on 23 July with Palooza Party, a platform to develop new friendships, networking opportunities and information exchange. People from all age groups are welcome to attend for a night of casual networking and meeting other professionals. Be sure to bring along your business cards. Dress code is business casual. Free admission for members and VND 100,000 admission for non-members (includes free canapes and special prices for drinks). AmCham Palooza will take place from 6pm-8.30pm at Pullman Saigon, 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1.
Da Nang International Marathon Register at Rundanang.com Start training now. World Marathon Tours will have its second annual Da Nang International Marathon 31 August in the third largest city in the country. The Da Nang International Marathon will include a marathon (42.195km), a half marathon (21.0975km) and a five-kilometre fun run. Participants can enjoy a cultural expo two days before the race. Runners from last year can receive $20 off the entry fee by entering their last race bib number in the coupon code when registering at Rundanang.com.
Fourth of July Feast
4 July 11-2.30pm 6 -10pm
Image courtesy of Lotte Legend Hotel
Atrium Café, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Are you an American expat? Celebrate American Independence Day at Lotte Legend Hotel’s Atrium Café with a buffet of gourmet American dishes such as Boston clam chowder, oven-fried buffalo chicken wings, lamb shanks with lentil, maple-glazed pork spare ribs, prime ribs, Yankee pot roast and more. There’s also a dessert menu with Mississippi mud cake, Philadelphia cheesecake and a chocolate fountain, complemented by a free flow of wine, beer, cocktails, juice and soft drinks. Free use of the swimming pool is available between 9am-5pm. The American Independence Day buffet brunch (VND 880,000) is 11am-2.30pm and the dinner buffet (VND 940,000) is 6pm-10pm. Atrium Café is at 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1. For reservations, call 08 38 23 29 33.
news Excessive light pollution in Vietnam Public health officials and doctors alike are voicing concern over light pollution in Vietnam’s urban areas, claiming the excessive brightness of high-powered traffic lighting and neon advertising signs is causing traffic accidents, sleep deprivation and other adverse affects on the health of local residents. Though no official studies have been carried out on the issue, there are presently no regulations regarding the brightness of advertising and other signage, which has been linked to multiple traffic accidents in the city.
HIV infections among women increase in Vietnam According to the National Commission on AIDS, Drugs and Prostitution Prevention, more than 3,100 people in Vietnam (mostly women) have been infected with HIV so far in 2014. The organisation reported that the proportion of women infected increased from 24.2 percent in 2007 to more than 32 percent in 2013 and early this year. Thanh Nien reports that 286,500 people nationwide live with HIV/AIDS. They also report that these infections are high in mountainous areas but are also prevalent in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, where prostitutes and drug users are vulnerable to cross-infections. At a recent conference, Deputy Prime Minister Vu Duc Dam said Vietnam has made progress in handling HIV infections, but that financial difficulties at the time will most likely prevent further progress.
Dengue fever cases expected to rise Doctors and public health officials expressed concern last month over the predicted rise of dengue fever cases. At a press conference organised in the lead-up to ASEAN’s Dengue Fever Day on 15 June, Director of the Preventative Health Department Tran Dac Phu noted that over 10,200 cases of the disease have been reported this year in 42 cities and provinces nationwide. Though this number is lower than that of the previous year, experts believe dengue fever cases will increase significantly during the rainy season. A growing number of urban cases also have health officials worried, as concrete cisterns and other clean standing water serves as a breeding ground for mosquitos in the city. While there is currently no preventative prophylaxis for dengue fever, a vaccine is now in its trial stages in Africa and is expected to be available by 2016.
Vietnam’s first non-profit university
Vietnamese architect receives award from UK
Vietnam will have its first-ever non-profit university, as Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung announced his approval last month of the proposed Fulbright University Vietnam. The school, which will be funded by the American foundation Trust for University Innovation in Vietnam, aims to take a Western-style approach to course instruction, offering Master's degrees in management and technology, and will receive assistance and instruction from the Fulbright Economics Teaching Program in Vietnam.
Renowned Vietnamese architect Vo Trong Nghia’s 350-square metre House for Trees in Tan Binh district won the UK Architectural Review’s House Award for the best one-off house, according to Dan Tri. The house includes five prismatic blocks, each of which contains a tree planted on its roof. Dan Tri reports that “many feel the design offers an inspiring solution to the city's growing pollution and shortage of green space.” It was finished this year and was the first in Vietnam built with a bamboo framework. Vo Trong Nghia’s designs have received numerous honours and are often open-air spaces with water and nature inspired by his childhood in Quang Binh.
LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn
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picks of the month
TOP 5
WAYS TO
BETWEEN THE INTERMITTENT DOWNPOURS AND AN OCCASIONAL CLOUD-COVERED AFTERNOON, SUMMER IN THE CITY HAS ARRIVED. THIS, OF COURSE, MEANS HOLIDAYS AND TRIPS TO THE POOL, LAZY AFTERNOONS AND TIME SPENT ON ROOFTOP TERRACES. IT ALSO MEANS THAT YOU COULD FRY AN EGG ON YOUR MOTORBIKE SEAT. FROM BENEATH A FEW LAYERS OF PROTECTIVE CLOTHING OR, AT THE VERY LEAST, A GLAZE OF SUNSCREEN, SAIGON RESIDENTS ARE ONCE AGAIN PAINFULLY AWARE OF HOW A WORK SHIRT FEELS CLINGING TO YOUR BACK OR THAT HAUNTING SENSATION OF SKIN ON LEATHER CUSHIONS. INSIDE, OUTSIDE, BEFORE A FAN, AMID THE AIR-CONDITIONING, IT DOESN'T REALLY SEEM TO MATTER WHERE WE ARE: IT'S HOT. BUT LIKE ANY GOOD EXPAT WILL TELL YOU, WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH, THE TOUGH GET CREATIVE. JUST BECAUSE YOU SPEND MOST OF THE DAY LOOKING LIKE YOU RECENTLY SHOWERED WITH YOUR CLOTHES ON IS NO REASON TO STAY HOME. IN AN INNOVATIVE CITY LIKE SAIGON, THERE ARE ALWAYS NEW AND INTERESTING WAYS TO BEAT THE HEAT.
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BCR Swimming Pool Though it's a bit of a journey from the city centre, BCR's crystalline swimming pool is well worth the trek. Overlooking District 9's Tac River, an offshoot of the Dong Nai River, two separate areas give kids a place to splash around as well as a five-lane lap pool for more serious swimmers. The infinity edge is a nice touch, giving the illusion that you're swimming in the middle of the river but with the added benefit of chlorine. There's also a spot for those who'd rather laze by the pool, as sleek sunbeds hover above the water with a panoramic view of the river. Entry costs VND 60,000 for adults and VND 40,000 for kids.
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Khu Dan Cu Truong Thanh, D9 // 09 46 66 46 16 / 09 03 03 81 00 8am–5pm; Wednesday-Monday // Thebcr.vn
Van Thanh Garden In a city starved for green space, Van Thanh Tourist Area remains one of the closer oases in town, a stone's throw from District 1 and yet still blissfully secluded. While the park is often mentioned for its swimming pool, which overlooks a canal, Van Thanh is equally noteworthy for its peaceful garden, where cafe- and restaurant-goers can relax in a quiet, shaded space or tuck in to a Vietnamese meal in one of the charming thatched gazebos that hover above the water. The menu is reasonably-priced and Van Thanh, just a short turn off bustling Dien Bien Phu, is surprisingly serene for its location. In addition to a swimming pool, garden and restaurant, parents will also find a handful of games and activities for the kids.
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48/10 Dien Bien Phu // Binh Thanh District // 08 35 12 30 27 // 7am–8pm
The Warehouse Hidden in plain sight across the park from Pham Ngu Lao, The Warehouse is a cool, hole-in-the-wall downtown café outfitted in exposed brick and distressed wood-and-metal furniture. It's also one of the only spots in Saigon to serve shaved ice cream (snow ice), a light and delicious frozen treat that makes a perfect refreshment. Each serving features a paper-thin sheet of ice cream layered upon itself, winding into some pretty impressive formations and topped with your choice of pineapple jam, raisins, bananas, passon fruit, red bean and a variety of other add-ons. The Warehouse's signature dish runs between VND 53,000 and VND 58,000 per bowl. Flavours include strawberry, chocolate, coffee, green tea, coconut and others. 21 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 // 09 09 62 11 61 // 8am-11pm
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Pandora Sky Lounge
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Hidden atop District 1's HDTC building just north of Pham Ngu Lao, Pandora offers a different view of the city. Unlike the sky-high Bitexco helibar or the dizzying heights of Chill, this breezy, laid-back lounge overlooks a quieter part of downtown from the 14th floor, just high enough to catch a glimpse of Saigon's ever-rising skyline but not so high as to feel disconnected from the city below. Pandora's staff escorts guests up to a posh rooftop terrace replete with comfy wicker sofas, ample greenery, a trendy bar and a small waterway running through the centre of the space. Background music plays low enough that you're able to hold a conversation over drinks, which include a range of beer, wine and cocktail options from VND 119,000 apiece. For livelier patrons, Pandora also hosts regular DJs and other more nightclub-related events indoors. However, this area is separate from the terrace so you can have your pick of both worlds here, relaxing on the roof in peace or indulging in a little late-night revelry inside. HDTC Building 36 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 // 09 38 22 23 24 6pm–3am // Pandorasaigon.com
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Peter Vidotto The Sailing Club has long been an iconic destination in Nha Trang for travellers and locals alike. On the 20th anniversary of the venue, Sailing Club founder and general director of the Sailing Club Group Peter Vidotto talks to Brett Davis about two decades of fun, adventure and success. Photos by Philip Deans.
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The Sailing Club circa 2000 [left] and now [right]. Photo by Philip Deans. What was it that originally brought you to Vietnam? I first came to Vietnam coming back from the UK. It was 1992 and I stopped here for a holiday. I hung out up there for a month or so. I met a Vietnamese guy on the beach in Nha Trang, and he said he had access to this place on the beach. It was a small Vietnamese cafĂŠ, plastic chairs. So I went back to Aussie for a while then came back, and that was the start of the Sailing Club in 1994. What was the original place you opened in Nha Trang like? There was nothing there. On the beach in Nha Trang, people didn't realise the value of what the beach was worth. It wasn't a place where they went to have coffee. They wanted to go into the centre of town. The beach was a place only tourists went to and in those days we would get together, light a fire on the beach, get a slab of beer and start sitting around and that is how it all came about. It was pretty obvious what was needed. The original building was bamboo. What we got was about 2,000 square metres on the beach. I only took 1,000 and then I got the other 1,000 square metres about three years after that. You have had challenges along the way. At one point you had to fight in the courts to keep control of the venue. What was that like? The foreign investment law when I first came here was very different to what it is now. I had to use a nominee person to represent me in a joint
venture with a government company. So, six years down the road, when the laws changed, I applied to get a foreign-registered company. At that time my Vietnamese partners were hesitant to change and it was a difficult transition. It ended up going to the authorities and the authorities backed me up a hundred percent. Because my staff backed me up and I paid my taxes, and even back then the Sailing Club was the place to go. It's always been the place to go in Nha Trang. The local authorities, when they have a foreigner come to town, they'll bring them there for dinner. I had that support and they supported me. But it was a tricky situation. It was touch and go. The Mia resorts are now part of the Sailing Club Group. What made you try your hand in that business? Mia Mui Ne opened around 2001 and Mia Nha Trang in 2011. In Mui Ne, I had heard about an area that all the backpackers were going to and it was supposed to be really cool and the local government supported foreign investment. We went down there and initially opened up a budget backpacker place. Bars, restaurants and resorts in a sense are all intertwined. The only difference with a resort is it needs to have a different vibe because it is a 24-hour thing with people staying there. I think our average room charge was about 30 bucks a night. I was pretty young at the time, and we sort of grew with the
business. As we got older we started making a little bit of money and started renovating, upgrading here and there. So we grew with the business, we grew with the market and we still do that today. Mia Nha Trang, I had the right partner who had the right land and we certainly raised the bar and it’s a very special place. Which is easier, running a bar or a resort? I'm contradicting myself in a sense. They are the same but they are very different. The resorts you need to have a different vibe. It's more of a down vibe. Everyone is very chill. Whereas Sailing Club was always something that started out early in the morning and by about 8-or 9-o'clock, the vibe starts picking up. If they are both running at full capacity, what's harder to control? The Sailing Club, because you've got 2,000 people in there and most of them have had a few too many drinks. And when the resort's full, it just rolls along. What properties and venues does the Sailing Club Group now encompass? We've got the Sailing Club, and we have two resorts. And we are really proud of Mia Nha Trang and we were able to put together something really special. The next stage of that is Mia residences, where we are building 12 five-bedroom villas. And the other one many people don't realise is that Louisiane Brewhouse is part of the group, and that's 80 percent Vietnamese clientele. And what we are really proud of there
is that the Sailing Club and Louisiane Brewhouse really complement each other. They're not stepping on each other's toes. Someone who has a drink at Sailing Club at night will go to Louisiane the next day and vice versa. So, that's good for Nha Trang city. Twenty years ago, did you ever imagine Sailing Club would be what it is today? No, absolutely not. The first 10 years was possibly the best time of my life. I came to Vietnam when I was 26, and it was new and exciting. I met my wife at the Sailing Club, so it's really special to me. Having the right partners who have faith in you and trust in what you are doing has made all the difference as well. What has been the key to your success? Now it is a lot different to before. Before you had to maintain good relationships with the the locals. Now it is like anywhere in the world where you have to keep ideas fresh. As I tell the general managers, if you are not moving forward you are moving backwards. So you always have to create something fresh and something new. It's all about going forward and never getting complacent because before you know it you're out the back. The other thing is don't try to do too much, just concentrate on one thing until that is working well. And keep it personal, because once your heart is not in the business, then you really don't understand the business, especially with hospitality. asialife HCMC 13
PHOTO ESSAY:
skate trip
Photos: James Meredew More of Meredew’s photographs can be found at Jamesmeredew.tumblr.com.
T Taz on the way to Saigon Outcast
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aking a cue from Skateboarder Magazine‘s The Killing Season (2012), a skateboarding excursion filmed in Vietnam, UK-based photographer James Meredew and two skateboarding friends decided to embark on their own ballsy six-week motorbike trip earlier this year. Meredew and his entourage emulated Skateboarder Magazine’s senior photographer Jonathan Mehring, who collaborated with filmmaker Patrik Wallner and five professional skateboarders to produce a 25-minute video of candid sights and antics. “The danger described in The Killing Season was definitely a strange motivation for us, along with the freedom of riding around on motorbikes and being able to stop and take photos when we wanted,” Meredew says. He captured odd and edgy photographs shot purely on 35mm film, first hanging out in Ho Chi Minh City and then mounting motorbikes after a long train ride to Da Nang. “We decided to head north with the intention of getting to Hanoi, however after one day of driving on the scariest motorway and the worst weather we had ever seen, we turned around. We stayed in Hue for one night, then headed back the next day for some good weather down south. We rode south trying to avoid the highway as much as possible, stopping at Quang Ngai, Tam Ky and Qui Nhon before arriving at Nha Trang about a week later. One of the highlights was getting really lost inland and being put up for the night by some really welcoming villagers who fed us rice wine and played cards with us all night.”
Kane wallride, HCMC
Adam and Kane after a night drinking, HCMC
Adam on the way to the airport, HCMC
Kane's Glue Bag tattoo, HCMC
Easy Rider. Somewhere near Da Nang, before his performance at a New Year’s party for villagers asialife HCMC 15
A view from My Thuan Bridge
Glue Bag headquarters
Hai Van Pass
Adam smoking in a hotel room, HCMC
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Adam on the beach with a kite, Da Nang
Kane lipslide, Saigon Outcast Kane and Duc skating, HCMC
Qui Nhon
Portrait of Adam, HCMC
Adam and Carlo lost in the jungle, somewhere outside of Tam Ky asialife HCMC 17
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To Be, or not to be. Despite growing access to contraception and strong family planning, Vietnam has one of the highest rates of abortion in the world. As public health officials work to bring down these numbers, Vietnam must face the unfinished business of reaching out to its young, unmarried citizens. By Dana Filek-Gibson, with additional reporting by Ruben Luong. Photos by Vinh Dao.
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A
World Health Organization report presented at the Franco-Vietnam Gynaecological and Obstetric Conference last May found that each year an estimated 40 percent of pregnancies in the country are terminated. While access to reproductive health services and information is greater than ever, the doctors who authored the report agree that “abortion is indeed the biggest challenge facing Vietnam in the field of reproductive healthcare, although the rate of application of contraceptive methods has increased.” Several decades ago, abortion was
The prevalence of the procedure is also cause for concern, with nearly two-thirds of the 384 women in the survey stating they had already had at least one abortion. an integral part of the country's efforts to harness population growth. Still recovering from the aftershocks of war and with a limited supply of safe and effective contraception in stock, abortion was used to ensure that married couples stuck to the two-child rule. Today, while the majority of married Vietnamese women report using some form of contraception, abortion rates remain high. Beyond access to effective birth control, societal attitudes highlight the perplexing relationship this country has with abortion.
Last year, when doctors surveyed women seeking to terminate their pregnancy at Hanoi's Central Obstetrics Hospital, nearly three-quarters of those interviewed still considered abortion a method of family planning. Across the board, all of the participants had at least some knowledge of contraceptives as well as the health risks associated with undergoing the procedure. A considerable majority also viewed abortion as a last resort. However, when it came to the reasons for terminating a pregnancy, almost 40 percent of the women cited “being busy at work” as a legitimate basis. Other justifications included the state of the economy and either the woman or her partner being unready for a child at the time. The prevalence of the procedure is also cause for concern, with nearly two-thirds of the 384 women in the survey stating they had already had at least one abortion.
When Options Were Limited When Phuong*, a 20-year-old vocational school student from Gia Lai, first learned she was pregnant, she knew abortion was her only choice. This was not the first time she and her long-term boyfriend had been in such a situation. Phuong, who lived in Hoi An, boarded a bus for Danang, where the region's best medical facilities were at the time. Making the rounds of the city's best hospitals, she filled out the necessary forms, using a false name in order to remain anonymous. Because Phuong's predicament was understood – a young woman pregnant out of wedlock – no one
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In 2002, Vietnam did not yet recognise second-trimester abortions as legal, making Phuong's quest for help too little too late.
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asked for her identification or any personal details. However, given the late stage of her pregnancy, doctors were unable to perform an abortion. In 2002, Vietnam did not yet recognise second-trimester abortions as legal, making Phuong's quest for help too little too late. Desperate and running out of options, a friend of Phuong's boyfriend called his girlfriend Thuy*, another Danang local, to ask for help. Over the course of an afternoon, Phuong and Thuy visited Hoan My Hospital, where the pair were also turned away, before arriving at a family healthcare and family planning clinic. Again, the doctors were unable to help, however this time a nurse mentioned to Thuy that she knew a doctor who would perform the abortion. After jotting down a phone number and address, the pair set up an appointment for later that day. The house in which Phuong had her abortion was located in an ordinary residential neighbourhood and did not appear to be a clinic from the outside. When the two entered, Thuy says she heard a scream from down the corridor. Not long after, a young woman emerged from within the house, ashen-faced, and sank onto a waiting room chair. The doctor then came into the room and called Phuong to the back. Within minutes, the doctor returned. Phuong did not have enough money on her own to cover the cost of the abortion. Though the two were more acquaintances than friends, Thuy still felt responsible. With the promise that she would be back soon, Thuy left to get some money. “I shouldn't have taken her to the hospital,” she recalls. “But if no one helped her there would still be a problem.” In the alley outside the house, Thuy came across a pawn shop vendor in the street and bartered one of her gold earrings for the remainder of Phuong's abortion fee. All told, the procedure cost VND 600,000 and lasted no more than 15 minutes.
Vietnam led the region in abortions among minors, with roughly 300,000 pregnancies terminated a year. When she reappeared from down the hall, Phuong was pale but well enough to insist that they get on a bus to Hoi An immediately. When the doctor protested, Phuong said that she would be fine, as this was her third abortion and so she knew what to expect. Fast forward to the present, and now married, Phuong is a housewife and mother of two. She and Thuy, also married, haven't spoken in years. If her story were to happen again today, the process would be much easier and safer than it was back then, thanks to her marital status. Phuong could go to a public hospital on her own, knowing with almost complete certainty that her needs would be met. Better still, contraception would be easily accessible, preventing the need for drastic measures before the situation even arose.
Facing the Reality But 12 years after Phuong and Thuy's experience, is the situation improving for single Vietnamese youths? Without a husband, young unmarried Vietnamese are not considered a suitable audience for sex education or access to reproductive health services, as premarital sex goes against the country's cultural values. This leads to a lack of awareness when it comes to not only safe and legal means of abortion but also the contraceptive measures and other services which could prevent pregnancy in the first place. “For us, the issue of unmarried young people is really the concern,” says Arthur Erken, United Nations Population Fund representative in Vietnam. “I think the government realises it but at the same time, of course, it's also a very sensitive issue. For us, the biggest challenge is to convince people. Giving comprehensive sexuality education to young people actually delays the onset of sexual activity.” In Phuong's case, giving birth was
certainly not an option. Without the familial safety net, many young unmarried women find themselves in a similarly precarious situation. Both the cost and social judgment of visiting a public hospital drive many into private clinics, where there is less quality control over the facilities or the expertise of the healthcare provider giving the abortion. Though Thuy found her friend's attitude toward abortion both frustrating and a little unnerving, there is no doubt in her mind what would have happened if their roles had been reversed. “If I were in school, I would do it, too,” Thuy says. “I can't get pregnant and then tell my parents. No one wants an abortion, but [it was] the best situation [at that time]. They can't get married so young. Ten years ago, your parents don't want to lose their face. She did not have any choice.” Unfortunately, despite the number of years between Phuong's abortion and the present, the number of minors who find themselves in this situation only seems to be rising. Last year, local news outlet Tuoi Tre reported that Vietnam led the region in abortions among minors, with roughly 300,000 pregnancies terminated a year. While there has been evidence of a tentative push toward more proactive reproductive health education, there is still plenty of work to be done. Earlier this year, VietNamNet ran an article on sex education programs at high schools in Phu Yen province, where local officials were revising the class curriculum in an effort to create more effective dialogue between teachers and students. At the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi, a small room on the ground floor holds a display on gender expression and sexuality, including a rundown of contraception options. While the change will certainly not happen overnight, Erken is optimistic for the future. “I think Vietnam is pragmatic enough to start dealing with the issue of sex education for unmarried young people, and I hope and I expect that because of that the abortion rates will decrease,” he says. “What Vietnam has done very well is that they've worked on the quantity of services. What they now can do and will do is work on the quality of it.” *Names changed to protect identity.
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For a country that consumes so much beer, there have been few choices for drinkers in terms of variations in style and flavour of beers. Brett Davis talks to one craft brewer who is aiming to change all that. Photo by Vinh Dao. The offices of Platinum Beverages, the outfit set to release their eponymous pale ale into the Saigon market this month, reflect their status as a new enterprise and one whose focus is solely on the quality of their product. This is most apparent through the current lack of furniture, a detail that can wait until the huge task of releasing their new brew into selected outlets around town is accomplished. So a handy windowsill is pressed into service as the man behind Platinum, 44-yearold Irishman Michael Comerton, leads me through a session of beer tasting. And when it comes to beer, Comerton certainly knows his stuff. Originally trained in the law, he later studied brewing in Scotland before working for Guinness and then spending 10 years in Australia with brewing giants Lion Nathan and Fosters. "I tell people I never got past the bar," he jokes.
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It seems a little odd at first to be taking in the nose and sipping on Heineken and Tiger to ascertain their different characteristics, but it proved very instructive. The mass-produced lagers are not something automatically associated with this kind of treatment. But under Comerton's guidance it was possible to set a benchmark for the full-malt style of the beer, and similarly for the mixed grain Sapporo and the lightly hopped Biere Larue. Platinum pale ale will be distributed in draught form, so the samples for tasting on this particular stormy afternoon are in clear, unmarked plastic bottles. It is straight from the tank, so it still has a touch more of the trademark cloudiness you get with pale ales. After pouring the beer into a glass the first step is to deeply breathe in the aroma, and that is when it happens. The fragrant, citrus-like notes hit you and it smells like memo-
ries, it smells like summer and long afternoons at the beach, like something you never knew you missed so much until you were reminded of what you had given up. Craft beer of this style is hugely popular in many parts of the world (especially in my native Australia), but they are almost nonexistent here in Vietnam. They derive their unique flavour from the liberal use of hops throughout the brewing process, again not something found in other locally made beers. In this case, the hops are imported from the US and Australia. The Platinum pale ale is produced under contract at a brewery just outside the city at Cu Chi, and the recipe was something that initially caused some consternation. "When we first went to the brewery they said no to us because they thought all the hops would block up their equipment," Comerton says. Happily that hurdle was overcome and the brew is about to make it to market. However the story goes back some way further and the journey to make Platinum has not been without its ups and downs. Comerton explains that he first came to Vietnam in 2008
with the aim of establishing a brewery. After finalising the plans he went in search of financing for the project. "That was in April 2009, and if you recall that was not really the best time to be trying to raise money," he says, referring to the then unfolding global financial crisis. There was also the failed entry of Miller Highlife around this time, and all considered it did not look like the best time to launch another brewery. Fast forward a couple of years with the entry of Sapporo into the market and the exploding popularity of beer clubs in Vietnam, and it looked like a more opportune moment. "The idea of having a choice is now in consumers' minds," Comerton says. "We don't want to scare people, so we have kept the same pale colour and the same bitterness, but what we have done is added a lot of hops to give it a completely different flavour profile." As Comerton says, the local market is ready for something different. If it's a departure from the ubiquitous Asian lagers currently available, then it is a difference long overdue. And it could, possibly, mark the beginning of a viable craft brewing industry in Vietnam.
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young minds Emerging artists have an unexpected new space in the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum to experiment with new contemporary art. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Vinh Dao.
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But the evening was not a nod to the established artists or curators of Ho Chi Minh City’s contemporary art scene, but rather to 10 exclusive and relatively unknown Saigon artists of the hour, most of whom have not yet been publicly exhibited.
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t was an auspicious night to have a classy affair, and Saigon’s underground community of beatniks, bohemes and academics felt so, too. By sundown, a palpable anticipation filled the modest courtyard of the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum, where a crowd of winsome folk convened for the grand opening of new experimental space, Sao La. Referencing in name the rare and eponymous Asian bovine, Sao La is essentially a non-profit breeding ground for young and emerging artists in the city. Under the aegis of commercial space Galerie Quynh, it’s an unusual addition to the conventional exhibits displayed throughout the museum's colonial-era hallways. So invitations were sent and curiosities were peaked. If not already acquainted, there was a sixth degree of separation between all the Sao La guests, with plenty of them part of the established art community. Spotted, for instance, was the chic French-Vietnamese artist Sandrine Llouquet in the courtyard and also artist, curator and RMIT lecturer Richard Streitmatter-Tran. But the evening was not a nod to the established artists or curators of Ho Chi Minh City’s contemporary art scene, but rather to 10 exclusive and relatively unknown Saigon artists of the hour, most of whom have not yet been publicly exhibited. Their grand debut in Sao La’s inaugural exhibit Out of Nowhere was ultimately a chance to inspire a new and young generation of Vietnamese contemporary artists. Cultivating these young minds are local artists Tung Mai, 29, and Kim To Lan Nguyen, 32, who will organise workshops and art talks at Sao La to improve contemporary art education. “The university education of art here is all very old and has been kept the same for a long
time,” says Nguyen. “Many hair tied back in a nonchalant young Vietnamese misunderponytail, as we sit in the open stand art and there’s a lack of terrace of his shared studio on foundation for young artists, so Nguyen Cong Tru Street, a few they don’t have the resources or blocks from Sao La. proper methods for executing “I’ve read a lot about how art.” people perceive gender and Since 1996, local and Viet Kieu I studied about the fetus and (overseas Vietnamese) artists when you can determine the sex such as Dinh Q Le, Tiffany of a person. In my story there’s Chung and Nguyen Manh a man with a mental problem. Hung have earned internaHe thinks he’s God and can give tional prominence in major people the freedom to deterbienniales, exhibiting large-scale mine their gender before they’ve works with themes of historideveloped,” he says. cal memory and loss, cultural Another emerging artist, difference, urban space, power Nguyen Duc Dat, 35, exhibited and rebellion relevant to their three kitschy works at Sao La, generation. consisting But while of two 120 most estabx 150cm ID lished artists portraits continue in oil-onto focus canvas, Kim on piecing Hung and together the Thach Thao, complex and a mixed realities of media instalVietnam’s lation titled pre- and Cabinet (Cai post-colonial tu). contexts, “I found a the current small folder generation in my studio Le Nguyen Duy Phuong of young with old ID Lorgnette – Nguoi nhin, 2014 Vietnamese digital print on acrylic perspex and light box cards. Some artists at Sao people use it La seem interested in disparate when their family member dies ideas and practices, dabbling in and they put it onto the altar, so a range of media from painting I was fascinated with that,” he and photography to video and says, leisurely blowing puffs of installation. tobacco from a pipe. Freedom (Tu Do) by Hoang A sense of humour is reflected Nam Viet, 29, was among the in Dat’s installation, which is first pieces to be seen inside the a play on the spiritual life of a Sao La space. Viet’s two-panel Vietnamese family. A four-tiered oil-on-canvas painting was cabinet is arranged according unlike many of the historical, ro- to a hierarchy of local traditions manticised works in the Ho Chi and norms. The top shelf houses Minh City Fine Arts Museum, incense and a Buddha shrine. showing a garish representaEach descending shelf contains tion of a nude, genderless paraphernalia from a typical figure cradled in the hands of a Vietnamese home. But suddenly monster-like Creator. on the bottom level are cabinets “It’s an image from my that, when opened up, reveal graphic novel about gendertwo small paintings of people less people,” Viet explains with having sex. bright eyes through thickWhether deeply existential rimmed vintage glasses, his or tongue-in-cheek, these are
themes and subject matters covered in Sao La that wouldn’t otherwise be featured in the Fine Arts museum, despite its role as one of the only major art institutions in the city. For awhile the museum has had a lackluster reputation. “If you go to work for the art museum, it’s like you are not an artist anymore,” says Nguyen, who worked at the museum for three years. “You are very boring. But when you stay outside you don’t know what happens on the inside. I worked in the research and collection department so I understand that they want something like Sao La but they don’t know how to do it. They have difficulties also.” Realising the community of contemporary artists is growing larger, the museum wants better programming but suffers from limited funding. Galerie Quynh also attempted in 2009 to create a program for emerging artists which also stalled several years later due to a lack in funding. But with money no longer an issue, the crucial moment for experimental contemporary art has finally arrived for both parties, and with it many ideas, hours of coordinating and pressure for art curators who will need to provide continuous interaction and collaboration for young Vietnamese artists. Programming at Sao La is still in its early stages, but it wants to engage with the public and will soon offer graffiti performance art, new media and other experimental projects atypical of traditional art. “I consider this a kind of challenge, a bridge between the establishment and the art community,” Nguyen says. “We don’t want to be against the system. It’s not like that. But we expect to help as many young artists as possible.” Out of Nowhere runs through 27 July at Sao La, 1 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 asialife HCMC 27
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Love at First Swipe
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From online delivery services and karaoke apps to Flappy Bird, Vietnam is hooked on technology. Now, a pair of locally-based dating apps are introducing Vietnamese singles to the world of online dating. By Dana Filek-Gibson. Graphics by Sarah Joanne Smith.
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porting flared cuffs and an eye-assaulting, rhinestonebedazzled jacket, Ca's silhouette stands out against a laser background. Swipe left. Nguyen, or more precisely, some Bieber-haired Korean soap star, gives a piercing stare from what is obviously the result of a Google image search. Swipe left. Hien seems nice enough, grinning widely into his webcam, maybe a little weird when you consider the cartoon duck floating above his shoulder. That is, of course, until the extra pair of arms comes into view. Turns out Hien doesn't love ducks or cartoons: that's just where his ex-girlfriend's face used to be. Swipe left. Hands in his pockets, Vy's lanky frame leans against a concrete wall. Between the tousled hair and the slightly creased V-neck, the photo could pass for an American Apparel ad. Swipe right. Over coffee and a solid internet connection, I've spent the past 20 minutes or so on OakClub, a locally-based dating app, accepting and rejecting other humans. There's something satisfying, maybe even a little addictive, about swiping one way or the other. OakClub, which launched eight months ago on Facebook and unveiled its mobile app in February, uses an individual's location and Facebook data to find nearby users with similar interests and mutual friends. Free to peruse other profiles, users swipe right to accept and left to decline, taking public rejection out of the equation. Only when there is a mutual attraction between users does OakClub put the two in touch. In a culture where the internet has become increasingly integral in day-to-day interactions – think text messaging, Facebook, Viber, emoticons and the halfdozen selfies you witness on a daily basis – I'm not the only one who finds this fascinating. In fact, as both internet and smartphone use continue to grow across Vietnam, more and more young people are coming
around to the idea of meeting their match online. “In Asia, [online dating]'s still not very accepted, but we feel that it's a matter of time before the public will accept it as a matter of course,” says Phil Tran, co-founder of OakClub and CEO of Glass Egg, the app's parent company. Though OakClub has taken a hands-off approach toward advertising, allowing its base to grow organically through wordof-mouth, a steady rise in users indicates that attitudes toward digital matchmaking, especially among the younger generation, are already shifting on their own. Roughly 70 percent of OakClub users are between 18 and 27 years old. “Our staff here is a perfect example,” says Tran. “Most of them are at dating age. They're in their mid- to late-20s and they have disposable income. What they don't have is a lot of time and it's a lot easier for them to meet somebody online and kind of screen them, talk to them, before they actually meet than to have to go to a club or a bar to meet someone, so we see even with our staff here that it's become accepted.” Part of the key to this acceptance, Tran believes, is ensuring that the app sticks to dating rather than becoming a facilitator of casual hook-ups. As such, each OakClub profile is regularly screened by an editor, and any photos or profiles deemed inappropriate are removed. “We've always thought about how to position ourselves,” Tran explains. “What we don't want it to become, clearly, is a meat market. So we're very careful about keeping it clean. We emphasise the fun of dating and de-emphasise the sex.” Elsewhere in the digital dating world, Paktor, a Singapore-based app with a similar layout, made its debut last September and has since taken a different means to the same end, marketing itself as a social app designed not simply for matchmaking but also for finding friends.
“We don't focus on dating only because meeting people is fun,” says Pham Thi Phuong Linh, Paktor's marketing manager. Last November, the company made headlines by setting the Guinness World Record for the largest speeddating event in history, which brought 484 singles to local venue Q4. Since then, Paktor has continued to push its app online via Facebook and other popular sites, as well as encouraging users to take their friendships and relationships beyond the digital world. Linh now holds regular in-person meet-ups, providing a safe and social environment in which Paktor users can connect in real life. “I was thinking if you match with a guy and he invites you out for a coffee, in Vietnam for a
Indonesia and maybe the Philippines as well.” Having a few good success stories also helps. Not long ago, two users contacted OakClub's marketing department, requesting that their profiles be deleted after having found one another through the app. While they lost two users, the company took it as a compliment that they'd eliminated the need for their own service. Paktor, too, has managed to bring people together. Early last month, the company uploaded a video to its YouTube account telling the story of Thuc and Uyen. Thuc, 22, joined Paktor shortly after its arrival in Vietnam and scanned dozens of profiles on the app. Many of the photos seemed too good to be true until he came across Uyen,
“We've always thought about how to position ourselves. What we don't want it to become, clearly, is a meat market. So we're very careful about keeping it clean. We emphasise the fun of dating and de-emphasise the sex.” Phil Tran, Co-founder, OakClub app girl it's maybe dangerous,” she explains. In order to encourage users to meet without the anxiety of a one-on-one date, the monthly hangouts are held at different venues around the city, usually cafés, and consist of no more than 25 people. While neither boasts a massive following, the future looks bright for dating apps in Vietnam. As of June, Paktor aimed to reach one million users across five Asian countries, and although it's too early to measure the app's Vietnamese growth, its overall numbers are going up. The same is true for OakClub, where the app's mobile component shows promise. “Right now we just focus on Vietnam,” says Tran. “But our aspiration is to go to Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand and
20, who seemed a more genuine person than the others he'd encountered. At first, the pair struck up a conversation only online, chatting and occasionally texting one another. Over time, they worked up the courage to meet face-to-face. For the next few months they would slowly turn from friends into something more. Fast forward six months, and the couple has plans to become engaged, proving that a little digital matchmaking can go a long way. Meanwhile, I'm still searching. A man poses beside a life-sized Smurf. Swipe left. A photo of a man in jeans and a button-up, cut off above the neck. Swipe left. A selfie, tastefully framed in an animated Kung Fu Panda border. Swipe left. These things take time. asialife HCMC 29
The drones
Unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs), or drones as they are commonly known, have been around for longer than most people realise. The technology was originally developed for military purposes, but it is increasingly finding other uses, including here in Vietnam. By Brett Davis, photos by GlobalVision’s Asia Flycam.
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ounder of online retailing giant Amazon, Jeff Bezos, garnered worldwide attention when he announced in late 2013 that the company was exploring the option of delivering lightweight products via UAVs. A number of hurdles such as regulatory approvals, safety and the limitations of current technology mean that it's unlikely you will have your next paperback descend from the skies, however the concept focused attention on the possibilities for these aircraft in everyday life. Pilotless aircraft have actually been around since the early 20th century and were used for things such as target practice for trainee pilots. Today, these fixed-wing and rotor UAVs have civilian applications that include aerial film making and photography, scientific research, oil and gas exploration, forest fire detection, environmental conservation and disaster relief to name just a few. The world of sports has also got in on the act, with a greater range of filming options available through the use of UAVs. In the recent Winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia, UAVs were used to film the skiing and snowboarding events. Swiss company Global Vision Communication has been at the forefront of imaging technology for a decade and a half, includ-
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ing using UAVs to capture aerial photographs and videos. Asia Flycam is the brandname used by their office in Ho Chi Minh City to service their Asian clients. The company's CEO Jan-Mathieu Donnier says that Global Vision's UAVs have been used for aerial mapping, filming television commercials and movies and creating 360-degree aerial virtual tours. However, having parcels delivered by drones may be a little way off yet. "With the current state of the technology, this is not possible. There needs to be a revolution in the battery capabilities before this can happen," Donnier says. "There will be a whole redefinition of delivery and distribution concept. It is not going to be delivered to your door. It will go to a centralised district distribution centre. This will also allow for charging the drones, as they will most likely arrive there on a critical level of battery." In Vietnam, GlobalVision uses the professional S800 and S1000 UAVs, known as multicopters. They feature six and eight individual propellers (like
the blades of a helicopter), and their twin batteries give them an operational flight time of around 15 minutes. They are also fitted with a Sony NEX7 24-megapixel camera that can shoot full HD video. This camera is mounted on a stabilised gimbal that allows it to rotate through 360 degrees and compensate for the movement of the aircraft. A typical operational team is made up of two people on the ground operating the controls, a pilot and a camera operator. The controls look surprisingly like what most of us would recognise from the remote-controlled cars we played with as kids, except the camera operator's has the addition of a screen to enable live viewing of the images coming from the on-board camera. You can acquire a pretty basic
and fun-to-fly unit for about $1,500, but professional drones like those used by Global Vision are much more expensive at around $15,000. And that's before you start looking at specific camera equipment. "With a machine like [the S800] which is about 10 kilos, if you don't know how to fly you can cause big damage. That is why you must start with the smaller ones. It is not hard to fly properly but you have to be very focused on safety." Don-
are coming
nier says. "If you are not careful you might end up crashing a very valuable asset." Humans can also be taken out of the equation. Donnier explains that for certain technical assignments such as mapping, where the aircraft flies a set grid pattern, it can be preprogrammed via GPS coordinates to follow certain path and perform precise operations along the way. These maps can also be integrated with the 360-degree virtual tours and video captured by the drone camera. "This technology really is at the edge of imaging and computer science," Donnier says. “We are proud pioneers of a technology that is helping show the world from a new perspective."
You can acquire a pretty basic and fun-to-fLY unit for about $1,500, but professional drones like those used by Global Vision are much more expensive at around $15,000. And that’s before you start looking at specifIc camera equipment.
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Wild Mekong
Taking dusty backroads and tiny ferries, Brett Davis experiences the people, wildlife and landscape of the Mekong Delta up close from the seat of a classic Vespa. Photos by Brett Davis and Ruben Luong. It's not yet 9am but the sun is beating down and it's already fiercely hot as we wait for the first of several ferry crossings we will make over the next two days. The small wooden vessel chugs up to the dock and disgourges its cargo of people, motorbikes, produce and livestock. Then it is our turn and we maneuver the old Vespas that are our transport onto the increasingly cramped deck. Only an hour or so before, we had ridden out through Nha Be district and into Long An province as part of Vietnam Vespa Adventure's two-day tour in the Mekong Delta. I had spent some time in the Delta at a friends' family home, but had always shied away from tours because of what I had heard about the
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standard fare. Tales of being loaded onto buses and paraded through a series of handicraft workshops and coconut candy factories did not do a lot for me. The Mekong Delta covers some 39,000 square kilometres, and its northeastern point begins on Ho Chi Minh City's doorstep. From the city's western fringes it stretches across to An Giang province on the Cambodian border and then to Ca Mau province at the southernmost tip of the country, forming a great triangle of incredible biodiversity and unique landscapes. The promise of heading off the beaten path with the Vespa tour was much more appealing, and judging by the tiny village our little vessel was heading
towards on the other side of a wide swath of river, that was certainly going to be the case. After man-handling the bikes up the gangplank we set off through open country dotted with shrimp ponds and salt pans, arriving a little while, and a few dirt roads later, at Vam Sat ecological reserve. The reserve lies in the lower reaches of the Dong Nai River system and contains a wealth of wildlife. Climbing an observation tower above the tree line of the mangrove forest we could observe countless bird species. While riding along the path through the forest we encountered a troop of monkeys, including mothers with infants clutched in their arms. On a slow boat ride through the narrow waterways we also came across a colony of fruit bats. There is also a large lagoon in the park where you can get up close to the legendary Mekong crocodile. Casting off on a small boat with a high wire mesh guard rail, we are soon surrounded by half a dozen of the ominous-looking creatures, their cold reptilian eyes staring back from only a few feet away. There is the chance to feed the crocs with meat tied on a line that is attached to a long stick. The animals leap out of the water and snatch the food with a terrifying whump. Cruising away from the park there are other stops to talk to people working on shrimp farms and making incense. It is these moments of interaction with the people who call the Mekong Delta their home that are some of the most satisfying of the two days. Another ferry crossing brings us to the rural district of Can Giuoc, where we pull up dusty and sweaty at a restaurant on the river bank. The cold beer tastes exceptionally good after a long day. Then we are off to the hotel to freshen up before returning to the same venue for the evening's main activity. This was a cooking class where the guests prepared several dishes under the tutelage of a local instructor. It was a lot of fun to make bok choy and pepper shrimp, as well as fried rice in a pineapple boat, among other things. It was also another example of how this tour gives you a chance to experience something of the local culture beyond where most go.
The next morning commenced amid the bustle and noise of Can Giuoc's wet market. The group had a breakfast nearby of some of the best bun thit nuong I'd ever had, washed down with rich, sweet ca-phe sua da. With the sun still slanting low across the horizon, we set off out of town and were immediately on back country roads, riding on the high berms between rice fields. The tracks were precarious in parts, but with experienced local riders in control of the Vespas, the only thing for us guests to do was settle back in the pillion seat and take in the majesty of the countryside. As we moved into Tien Giang province, the landscape became a postcard vision of Vietnam: verdant green rice fields, coconut palms, stands of bananas and farmers tilling the fields. Along the way there were numerous stops that gave us a chance to experience a slice of local life. Early on was a small farm that was a model of sustainability. Here, farmers grew pigs and rice, and the manure from the pigs was used to fire the stills that turned the rice into rice wine. The leftover mash was then used as feed for the pigs. Further along the road was a magnificent 130-year-old house, which was a little bit of Hue in the Delta. The intricate carvings and many Chinese motifs of the 100-pillar house were explained to us by the very accommodating current owners, who are the fourth generation of custodians in this special place. We finally arrived at Tan Thanh, on the coast of Tien Giang province, near where some of the many tributaries of the Mekong empty into the sea. The group had lunch in the most extraordinary of places, a series of wooden pavilions built on stilts over the ocean and connected by narrow walkways. It seemed remarkable that the whole rambling structure had not fallen into the ocean, but instead remains perched above the largest natural clam bed in the country and looking over the East Sea. With a gentle breeze cooling our sweaty brows, it was the perfect place to end a great adventure. For more information visit Vietnamvespaadventures.com. asialife HCMC 33
Slow Boat to Phnom Penh Joanna Mayhew takes in Cambodia in style on an old-world cruise. Photos by Joanna Mayhew and Conor Wall. The bus ride from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap had all the elements you would expect of transport in Cambodia, and each one was equally unwelcome – clouds of dust, hazardous construction detours, unexplained delays, cramped quarters and frequent stops to load and unload chickens and bulky bags of rice. But the seemingly endless bumpy road provided a stark contrast to my return trip via the Tonle Sap River and aboard the luxurious Toum Tiou II boat. Evoking images of elegant charters from years bygone, the three-day cruise winds down modest waterways, past mangroves and remote villages until meeting the mighty Mekong. Though arguably not the most 34 34 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC
efficient mode of transport, the boat offers a new perspective on the country, as if viewing it from its seams outwards. Cruises have long been a player in global tourism, and river trips are now the fastestgrowing element within the cruising industry. In Asia, popular cruising rivers include India’s Ganges, China’s Yangtze and Myanmar’s Irrawaddy. “This region of the world is just opening its rivers up to cruising,” says Kourosh Aghassi, cruise director for Toum Tiou II’s parent company, CF Mekong River Cruises. “Within the cruising niche, this part of the world is the last un-cruised. The Mekong is the last great undiscovered river.” “Cruisers,” as passengers are
referred to, typically hop from one cruise to the next, crossing destinations off their list by the rivers on which they travel. As Cambodia offers two largely unfrequented rivers, the Mekong and Tonle Sap, it appeals to many who have already cruised the world’s other major rivers. “If you want to break away from the tourist trail, this is probably the most civilized way of doing that,” says Aghassi. The Kingdom’s cruising market has grown in recent years, but the numbers are minute compared to others. Around five companies currently operate on the country’s rivers, with approximately 15 ships and 30,000 cruisers per year. By contrast, the Nile hosts 250 to 300 ships with several hundred thousand cruisers yearly, according to CF Mekong. This means that, for now, Cambodia’s cruises remain intimate. CF Mekong’s small and shallow-hulled ships, or “discovery vessels,” allow for entry into the narrowest estuaries and access to major docks almost year-round. Launched in 2002 and the first company to operate the country’s rivers, CF Mekong focuses on ensuring cruisers experience communities as part of the voyages. The company pitches “affordable luxury” and is less costly than others, but prices are still highend. As my cruise from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh fell in the driest month of the year, it started with a three-hour speedboat
ride across the expansive Tonle Sap Lake to the docked boat. The 14-cabin, 38-metre-long ship was only half full, with 15 passengers hailing from Switzerland, Australia, France, the United States and Germany. Named after a traditional Khmer love story, the Toum Tiou II is all romance and charm. Panelled in wood throughout the three stories, the boat boasts thoughtfully designed cabins with large lookout windows, ample storage space and rainfall showerheads. The ship’s sundeck, enclosed dining room and hallways are tastefully accented with small tangerine trees and traditional handicrafts. The journey was an experience of simultaneous immersion and escapism. Daily excursions to witness staples of Cambodian life – markets, temples and subsistence farming – brought intriguing and sobering insights to the country. Yet with each return to the ship, we were quickly enveloped by the refined elegance of the immaculate surroundings, with cold coconut cocktails, scented towels and a reminder that the next four-course meal would be served shortly. The oasis of the boat and the contrast to its surroundings would be disconcerting if they were not so tastefully done. The most rewarding stop was the unassuming town of Kampong Chhnang, 56 miles upstream from Phnom Penh, edged by long stretches of float-
ing villages that give the impression of it having chaotically spilled over its steep banks. Rows of blue, green and yellow houses jut into the dark water, with a collection of TV antennas pointing skywards. Cham and ethnic Vietnamese communities trawled for, sorted and sold fish as the roar of diesel engines echoed between the banks. Once on land we visited a guru of all things palm, known affectionately as Mr. Ri, at his home. The infectiously jolly 62-year-old harvested palm fruit in a burst of showmanship, racing up a shoddy ladder and precariously parading between trees on a single bamboo beam. His calloused hands attested to many years of producing the charcoal-hinted palm juice, fudge-like palm caramel and 49-percent-strong palm wine. Nearby, a hands-on lesson was provided on making traditional Chhnang pots, produced from the area’s signature rustcoloured clay. A 61-year-old potter used water to manually carve clay, walking in circles to create the ornate pot – which sells for 500 riel – in seven minutes. Under her careful tutelage, we also milled rice to be cooked on board as an accompaniment to a dinner of fish amok, beef soup and papaya salad. Downriver at Kampong Tralach the outings became increasingly touristy with visits to a local school and ox cart rides through town, but the aged and impressive Reamker murals at Wat Kampong Tralach Leu were
undoubtedly worth seeing. Though such visits are optional, they are part of a schedule marked by the frequent clanging of the ship’s gong, signalling wakeups, meals and excursions. But while on board, periods of cruising proved, appropriately, the most enjoyable part of the trip. The shoreline is close enough to observe life on both sides while nestled in the cosy upstairs lounge or perched at the bow. Sounds of children playing in the water, exotic birds and Khmer wedding music hovered over our passing boat, and the river’s receded water exposed long bare stilts of elevated homes. On day three, we passed under highway bridges and cut through a crop of small fishing boats to approach Phnom Penh. The city gradually filled the shore, and I found myself hesitant to return to land-bound life. From the peaceful sundeck, I took the final sips of my drink and indulged in one more complimentary ginger cookie. The crew secured the ropes and offered me a hand back to shore. I took one final glance of Toum Tiou II, and reassured myself that there were plenty more rivers to cruise. CF Mekong River Cruises offers trips weekly and fortnightly from July to April with six- and eightday cruises between Siem Reap and Saigon provided alongside shorter trips. For more information, see www.cfmekong.com.
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boom boom burgers 2 Thao Dien Road, D2 // 10am-10pm 09 09 53 23 78 // Boomboomburgers.wago.com
Fresh, simple and full of flavour is the order of the day at this District 2 burger joint. Review and photos by Brett Davis.
For around two years Boom Boom Burgers has been serving up its tasty burgers as a delivery-only service from their base in Binh Thanh, but they recently opened the doors of their first eat-in establishment on Thao Dien Road in District 2. It is a cosy little space with a modern, industrial aesthetic to it, but it is just right for popping in to grab a quick bite. The menu is focused, to say the least, with just three burgers and a couple of sides. There is also a selection of soft drinks, beer and cider. The freshness of the ingre36 asialife HCMC
dients is a key element to the operation. Imported Australian beef is ground daily to make the burger patties, while the iceberg lettuce and potatoes for the fries arrive daily from Dalat. The Boom Boom Burger (VND 85,000) is a 75-gram meat patty topped with caramelised onion, tomato, lettuce and cheddar cheese. It is a no-frills burger but the quality of the ingredients shine through. For those with a larger appetite, the Double Boom Boom Burger (VND 125,000) is exactly that, two beef patties with the same lettuce, tomato,
cheese and caramelised onion toppings. The standout burger, for me at least, is the Spicy ABC Burger (VND 125,000). The secret here is the roasted jalapeno chillies that are mixed in with the ground beef. The 100-gram patty is topped with cheese, crispy bacon and a generous smear of the house's secret avocado blend. The chilli peppers are deseeded first so there is not too much fire, just a pleasant little bit of heat that kicks in for the aftertaste. In combination with the crispy bacon and creamy avocado, it is an absolute win-
ner. When it comes to the sides, there is a choice between chinky potato and sweet potato fries (both VND 30,000). Each are hand-cut each day and come with ketchup or mayonnaise dipping sauce. For an additional VND 40,000 you can grab a burger combo deal that also includes fries and a soft drink. For those not in District 2, never fear because you can still order delivery to Districts 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 by calling or texting the restaurant, ordering through the website or on Vietnammm.com.
OMG 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D1 11am to 1am // 09 37 20 02 22
Stylish European and Asian fusion cuisine with killer views. Review and photographs by Brett Davis.
Perched on the ninth-floor rooftop of a hotel adjacent to Ben Thanh market, OMG has superb views over downtown Saigon and food to match. The menu is focused but includes enough choices to satisfy everyone across hot and cold starters, pasta and risotto, mains and dessert. The fusion in the cuisine here comes in subtle additions of spices and herbs, such as five spice, green pepper or wasabi. There are also original twists on classic dishes that surprise and intrigue. For instance, most people will probably not have contemplated a tartare of crocodile
(VND 220,000), yet it is infinitely wonderful. The flesh is akin to the kinds of white fish used in sashimi such as kingfish or yellowtail. Mixed with dill and served of a base of diced mango, the dish is nothing short of a revelation. From the hot starter side we tried the half-cooked salmon and red tuna (VND 240,000). The pieces of fish are rolled in five spices and seared very quickly which makes for a delicious crust and textual counterpoint to the soft inner flesh. The foie gras is a specialty at OMG and is served individually (VND 450,000) or in a trio (VND
550,000) of infused flavours with accompanying garnishes. The candied ginger foie gras comes with chilli mango chutney, the Porto Cognac foie gras with marmalade onion grenadine, while the Havana cigar flavour comes with apple, prune and rosemary chutney. Next up was a seafood risotto (VND 280,000) with shrimp, clams and chorizo sausage that was satisfyingly rich and cheesy. The standout of the evening, though, was the osso bucco (VND 650,000) made with venison rather than the traditional veal. It was melting-off-the-bone tender and came with couscous,
vegetables and a side of gravy made from the roasting juices. The desserts are no slouch at OMG and all come in at VND 90,000. The lemon tart’s curd was exquisitely tangy, while the chocolate and banana croque monsieur is a decadent fried sandwich that Elvis would be proud of. OMG is adding a retractible roof system to make the venue wet-season friendly, and will host a live band each Wednesday night and DJs on Friday and Saturday starting in July. Also from this month, the restaurant will open from 11am and offer a set lunch special. asialife HCMC 37
hideaway café 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 // 7.30am-11pm 08 38 22 42 22 // Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
A tasteful makeover makes Hideaway Café worthy of its popular European menu. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Sarah Joanne Smith.
Nowadays dining at Hideaway Café on Pham Ngoc Thach Street can trigger a bit of a double-take. What was once an oldfashioned and terracotta-laden French den is now a refined and cosmopolitan French bistro. Downstairs is a mod bar area lined in retro bottles. Upstairs, mirrored facades and French grey walls frame the windows of the villa so that natural light spotlights the vintage posters and communal oak tables. Hideaway certainly lives up to its name but this bold and much-needed upgrade is very pleasant and professional, 38 asialife HCMC
tailored for quiet business lunch dates that require a little flair and plenty of substance. It’s a relief that the interior is now on par with the café’s primary menu, preserved for its Pacific Rim flavours and European favourites (VND 110,000 -395,000) that are also MSG-free. Somehow the food tastes even better in the new surroundings. Decadent pancakes with fresh fruit and maple syrup (VND 60,000) for breakfast seem more wholesome over earthy wooden tables. Three pancakes stacked on square plates are fluffy and comforting next to refreshing bowls of fruit powdered in light
sugar. Breakfast in fact is served all day so it’s something to be appreciated as often as possible. There’s a renewed farm-to-table deliciousness in the full English breakfast (VND 120,000), which is not overly greasy and ample in eggs, toast, mushrooms, bacon and roasted tomatoes dusted in herbs. Offsetting hunter-greenwalled booths, a colourful plate of pasta with steak and vegetables (VND 150,000) radiates with a medley of cherry tomatoes, mangetout and spinach leaves that blanket a heap of thin spaghetti. Overall it’s light
and garden fresh, despite the generous morsels of peppery steak buried within. If you’re vegetarian however, the grilled goat cheese with rocket, pine nut and cous-cous (VND 140,000) is a moreish selection off Hideaway’s popular vegetarian menu. Crispy bread crumbs are delectable with warm and creamy dollops of goat cheese. So often Hideaway can be overlooked because of its seclusion, but indulging in its new look and cherished cuisine, we’re inclined to believe it will only be more memorable moving foward.
crab shack 11 Le Quy Don, D3 11am–2pm, 5pm–10pm // 08 39 30 95 42
First-class seafood, lobster bibs and a perfect blend of spices elevate cajun cuisine at District 3’s Crab Shack. By Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos from The Crab Shack.
Beside Crab Shack’s front door, a series of bubbling fish tanks house the day's catch, from hefty lobsters to dozens of prawns treading frantically in the ice-cold water. Say hello to your dinner. Ever since its grand opening in February, the spacious restaurant’s two-storey dining room fills up most nights, packed with diners sporting lobster bibs and plastic gloves and cracking open shellfish over paper-covered tables. Still, the swanky seafood spot is perhaps Saigon's most sophisticated cajun-style restaurant. Top-notch seafood
comes swimming in bags of mouthwatering sauce, making for a satisfyingly messy experience. Whether you turn up for lunch or dinner, the Crab Shack's mains are the crux of its menu. Each main consists of one kilo of seafood, while add-ons like stir-fried noodles or garlic bread really round out the meal. From fresh lobster to locallycaught tiger prawns and clams, and crawfish straight from Louisiana, diners select a type of seafood from the list which is then prepared in a sumptuous sauce. Though several varieties
are available (cajun, lemon and pepper or garlic and butter) the best thing to do is to go for the all-in-one option. Crab Shack's appetisers, too, are a nice complement to its main dishes. To start off your meal, order a massive baked oyster with cheese (VND 79,000). Brought fresh from Nha Trang, these gargantuan oysters are topped with a decadent combination of mozzarella and parmesan cheeses. For groups, the Crab Shack also does a handful of winning combo meals. The best of the bunch is Combo 1 (VND 699,000), which features a half-
kilo of crawfish, a half-kilo of shrimp, four grilled sausages and three pieces of corn-onthe-cob. Depending upon your appetite, these generous plates can serve between two and four people. Whatever your order, feel free to get your hands dirty, as the Crab Shack stocks plenty of lobster bibs and plastic gloves to minimise the mess. Lunch diners will have no trouble walking in for a midday meal, but in the evening it's not a bad idea to make a reservation, particularly on weekends, as the restaurant fills up between 5pm and 8pm. asialife HCMC 39
The VIP Van Ritzy travel limousines made from Ford Transits are a fun, safe and comfortable way to travel throughout the country. By Ruben Luong. Photos by HTH Corporation. Reconverted from the 16-seat Ford Transit vans that are ubiquitous to Vietnam, HTH corporation’s luxury limousine welcomes me inside with the unmistakable scent of new car. In the meeting saloon consisting of four reclining and retractable seats, a private screen and soundproof glass partition, HTH CEO Phong Van Thong then shamelessly blasts Yanni from the limousine’s bass sound system. We bob our heads to the beat and Thong shifts hidden compartments and presses buttons to reveal a foldable table and flatscreen television, all made sexier under the ritz of blue and purple LED rain lights above. This glam is mostly reserved by local tourism companies and commercial guests like celebrities, golf players, traders and VIP guests of multinational companies, but anyone can rent HTH’s limousine services for family or friends to go on the road at reasonable prices. Price is based on services, such as VND 700,000-2 million for a one-day trip to Vung Tau. It can also be based on the particular tour program. For example, a tour to Mui Ne could cost VND 10,000 per kilometre. “From past experience in other countries, we realised the vehicles in Vietnam are very low-quality in terms of comfort and convenience,” says Thong, who worked an eight-year stint at Ford Vietnam. “But if we
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import limousines, it could cost over VND 10 billion. That’s why we have to think about how to modify and innovate the cars in Vietnam but also not have their services be expensive.” HTH refurbishes Ford Transits made in Vietnam in its factory in District 8, costing around VND 1.2 billion in total to produce. They are converted into 10-seat vans (three up front, seven in the back) to provide more space and comfort. To keep a competitive edge, upgrades and modifications are made by HTH’s technical design team every six months. The current limos make up the third generation of the vehicles and are equipped with standard features like seats that recline to 170-degree flatbeds, 220-voltage power outlets, high-speed wifi and a mini cool bar stocked with a decanter and champagne glasses. But the fourth generation is set to release soon. One modification features a more durable, retractable flatscreen television installed on the ceiling of the van. This is an improvement from a flatscreen television behind the minibar that would often jam as it automatically rose from the central unit. Enhancements like this earned HTH Supplier of the Year by Southeast Asian tour company Asian Trails last year. Thong says HTH’s fleet of forty drivers are also rigorously trained and tested
Photo by Vinh Dao
Phong Van Thong, CEO, HTH Corporation
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Vehicles in Vietnam are very low-quality in terms of comfort and convenience. But if we import limousines, it could cost over VND 10 billion. That’s why we have to think about how to modify and innovate the cars in Vietnam but also not have their services be expensive.
in defensive driving using international auditing and standards from leading tourism company KUONI in Switzerland. As they continue to provide more quality and innovation, HTH now has plans to provide its limos and services for popular chauffeur service application Uber, which made a welcome debut in the city last month. Businessesmen will be able to request HTH drivers through the Uber app on their smart phones. Downtown sports pub Game On on Ho Tung Mau Street is also one client that rents HTH’s limos to provide round-trip van transportation from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau, making it a perfect party van for weekend getaways. “It’s good for everyone because we enjoy our own privacy. We have friends. We gossip. We have children who love the television monitor,” Thong says. “It’s all very comfortable.”
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Photo: Patrick Carpenter Model: Phan Linh dieuANH boutique: 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1
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Dieu Anh is an established young designer who studied at Ho Chi Minh City’s University of Fine Arts and received formal technical training at the L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndical de la Couture Parisienne. With tender and fresh colours in clean-cut designs constructed of linen, cotton and denim, Dieu Anh’s latest resort collection is about submerging yourself in lush green surroundings and daydreaming of azure blue seas to usher in a summer of feeling fresh and alive.
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listings
On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.
DALAT
InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.
Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.
hotel & travel AIRLINES
Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris. Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex. Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
CON DAO
Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
escape
The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.
Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a cafe and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.
HANOI
Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool. Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm
New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant. Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.
HOI AN & DANANG InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888
take flight with travel promotions around the region
Summer Sunshine Promotion at Möevenpick This summer stay at Mövenpick Hotel Saigon and enjoy up to 30 percent off with its Summer Sunshine offer. Starting from only $90 per night, The Summer Sunshine offer is valid for stays through 30 September. Mövenpick Hotel Saigon is at 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District. For booking inquiry, please email hotel. saigon@moevenpick.com.
Opera House Getaway The Hotel de l’Opera’s Memorable Package in Hanoi offers a luxury stay in rooms inspired by operatic interior design or suites with breakfast for two, a five-course French set dinner menu for two and one complimentary glass of Bulle
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Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.
de Blanquette Brut per person to be enjoyed on the hotel’s rooftop and overlooking the famous Opera House. The Memorable Package also includes a personal butler. Rates start at $185 per night and require prepaid booking and minimum booking of two days. To make a reservation, email H7832-RE@accor.com.
Beautiful Package at InterContinental Asiana Saigon There’s no better way to revitalise your mind and body than with the Beautiful Package at Spa InterContinental. Starting with a herbal tea to warm up the body, each spa therapist will then softly remove dead skin cells, freshen up and moisturise your skin with the combination of sweet orange peel and fresh milk. The package is priced at VND 1,390,000 per person for a
danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.
NHA TRANG
Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito`s bar. Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.
PHAN THIET Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two
90-minute treatment. Available through 31 July. Spa InterContinental is located on the third floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1. Email spa1@icasianasaigon.com for a reservation.
restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex. The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.
SCUBA DIVING
Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc. Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.
VUNG TAU Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.
TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com
Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com
CHUDU24 hotel booking service 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 info.en@chudu24.com www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008.
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SERVICED APARTMENTS & COMMERCIAL SPACE FOR LEASE Hotline: 0918 802 526 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 F: (84-8) 3824 1835 E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group
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One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.
listings
Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.
food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu. Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.
Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around. The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.
CAFES
Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org
feast
Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1
Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.
CHINESE
Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting. Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials. Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs. Yu Chu
broaden your palate with promotions around town
Dim Sum Fever Timeless in design, with exquisite handcrafted tables and chairs, Lotus Court has award winning Cantonese dishes in a refined elegant setting. Their famous Dim Sum Brunch on Saturday and Sunday remain very popular among the gourmands. For those with an appetite, make room for the Express Dim Sum Lunch every day priced at only VND 149,000 per person and the famous Dim Sum Brunch every Saturday and Sunday priced at only VND 350,000 per person. Lotus Court is at 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District.
The Art of Artichokes Reflections Restaurant is drawing inspiration from the gardens of Dalat this summer by showcasing the subtle flavours of artichoke.
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94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.
From 12-18 July, Reflections will introduce artichoke in five appetisers such as stuffed artichoke hearts and artichoke carpaccio, and in five mains such as sous vide duck breast with artichoke gratin. Guests can order any three courses from the a la carte menu for VND 810,000 or any four courses for VND 938,000. Email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com to book a reservation. Reflections is on the third floor of the Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son square, D1.
Delicious Duck at Orientica Enjoy three styles of Peking duck at Orientica Seafood Restaurant and Bar, which is currently running a special promotion at VND 750,000 per piece. Guests can enjoy roasted duck skin with onions, cucumber and chef's special sauce rolled in traditional pancake, duck meat
InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.
FRENCH
Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa. Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.
INDIAN
Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.
INTERNATIONAL
Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093
prepared with your choice of sauce, or fried rice with duck meat. Orientica, rated as a top 100 restaurant by Gourmet Vietnam, is located in the Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5. For bookings, email dine@hcm.equatorial.com.
400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips. Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips. The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632
Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw. The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day. Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks. Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.
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Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.
By Michael Kloster
imbibe Pairing Wine With Regional Cuisine In a recent meeting with my financial advisor, the inevitable subject of wine came forth. We discussed a few favourites, the value of bag-in-box and moved on to the subject of pairing beverages with Vietnamese cuisine. His choice: beer. However, the local beer that’s available rarely elevates the food the way that wine can. Regional Pairing Regional pairing is pairing food from a particular region with wine from the same region. This natural pairing has grown over time, and it's why you’ll often see Italian or French restaurants with exclusively Italian and French wine lists. Anyone who has traveled to a wine region will notice a natural affinity between the local wines and the local food. It’s a natural fit. While this may help you pair a Chianti with a nice red pasta, it’s not much help when we start talking about Vietnamese food. So if you’re inclined to enjoy your next bowl of bun thit nuong, or plate of spring rolls with some wine, I’ve outlined a few simple guidelines to assist with the journey. Complementary Flavours The food need not overpower the wine or vice versa. This is why it wouldn’t be complementary to a plate of fresh crispy crunchy pork and shrimp spring rolls with a bold and juicy Argentine Malbec. Find something that is equally intense in similar ways. The ubiquitous fresh spring roll is an easy pair with a variety of 50 asialife HCMC
whites, so try a tart, grassy sauvignon blanc or a bit heavier-handed Semillon or a dry Riesling. If you’re having your spring rolls with peanut sauce, try a richer, buttery Chardonnay (California produces lots of these). A Bite of Spice is Nice Pairing with spicy foods (don’t forget to consider the chillis floating in your fish sauce), look for something on the sweeter side. Spicy and sweet is a classic flavour combination that holds true here too. Try a German Rhine Riesling or any of the awesome off dry wines from France’s Alsace region like Gewurztraminer, Riesling or Silvaner. You won’t go wrong. Try all of these wines with a nice fishy, peppery claypot fish. Pick the Pink Flavour I’ve made no secret of my love for Rosé, and when pairing with local food, I’ll not waver from what I’ve already declared a wonderful match. These subtle, fragrant flavours that we commonly find in Vietnamese food are highlighted and complemented by the soft tannins and lighter texture of Rosé, making an easy pair for a simply respectable banh mi thit or a turmeric rich, crispy banh xeo. And if your favourite banh xeo joint doesn’t have wine? Bring along a bottle to share! Michael Kloster is the senior sales executive at Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at michael@magnumwinecellars.com.
The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available. Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors. Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.
ITALIAN
Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines. Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.
pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm. Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.
KOREAN
25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi. Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with artdeco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.
VEGETARIAN
Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets. Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.
Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.
VIETNAMESE
JAPANESE
Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.
Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2
Grillbar 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 79 01 A Vietnamese restaurant with a focus on charcoal-grilled meat brings classic Vietnamese street food indoors to a modern, clean environment.
Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for
recipes
LAMINGTON DESSERTS À LA GIOVANNA A lamington is an Australian dessert supposedly named after Lord Lamington, the Governor of Queensland, or perhaps his wife Lady Lamington, during the late 18th to early 19th centuries. It is composed of squares of sponge cake normally coated in a chocolate sauce and then in desiccated coconut. For anyone a fan of chocolate and coconut paired together, this recipe for lamington à la Giovanna is sure to please.
Ingredients • 200 grams flour (sifted) • 6 eggs • 180 grams sugar • 1 bar of dark chocolate • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • 50 grams butter • 1/2 cup milk • 1/4 cup water • Orange zest and rind • Desiccated coconut
Instructions • Preheat oven to 200
degrees. • In a large bowl, break six eggs and pour the sugar. • Put into the mixer. • Mix until it is fluffy and changes into a light colour. • Slowly pour the sifted flour, little by little, and fold the mixture. • Bake the mixture in a rectangular tray for 12-15 minutes to create the sponge cake. • Let the sponge cake cool and set aside. • In a bowl, melt the dark chocolate bar with milk and butter. • Put it in a microwave for 45 seconds on medium heat. • Add a little water, cinnamon, orange zest and rind to the mixture. • Once everything is diluted smoothly, cut the sponge cake into squares. • Dip each sponge square into the bowl of chocolate. • Coat it with desiccated coconut on all sides. • Put in a tray and enjoy every bite of this Australian dessert.
Recipes provided by Joanie Manalang Culinarian Food Stylist Artist-chef.blogspot.com
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its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.
nightlife BARS & LOUNGES
See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes. The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.
Local Eats
By Tristan Ngo
Chuyen Ky Restaurant Since this column first appeared in AsiaLIFE, I've received a lot of feedback and recommendations from local expats on their favourite local eateries. I'm quite happy and flattered because it means that the column is achieving what it set out to do, reaching out to people living throughout the city. Recently, I was invited by some of my close friends and foodies to try one of their hidden gems, Tiem Com Tho Cho Cu Chuyen Ky. It is quite a long name and literally means Chuyen Ky potted rice place in the old market. But to the locals it is simply known as Chuyen Ky. I had no expectations, just a good old local luncheon with friends, but it really took me by surprise. We ordered Chuyen Ky’s signature rice with steamed ginger chicken cooked in a little clay pot, which was very tender and succulent. The ginger was powerful and made the dish outstanding. Next was the deep-fried salted fish cutlets in sate sauce. It was savoury, spicy and literally an explosion of flavour. We finished with the sweet and sour pork and a side of stir-fried spinach in garlic sauce. The pork was nothing special but the spinach in garlic sauce was simple and delicious. Beside their steamed ginger chicken, they are known for the double-boiled black chicken soup (ga ac tiem) which we 52 asialife HCMC
did not have the chance to try since we were so stuffed. Flavoured with traditional Chinese herbs such as ginseng roots, dried red dates and wolf berries, this soup is believed to be invigorating and nutritious. It would be a great cure for a hangover if you can get over the blackness of the chicken. In a previous column I mentioned that restaurant Thien Nam on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street in District 1 (established in 1963) was arguably one of the oldest continuous (same location and family-owned) restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Well, I’d like to rescind my previous comment and safely say that Chuyen Ky is now the oldest continuous restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City that I’ve come across. Since 1948, Tiem Com Tho Cho Cu Chuyen Ky has been passed down three generations, from grandmother to mother and now daughter. This very humble eatery also happened to be their home situated across from the bun thit nuong lady in the Old Market (Cho Cu). The current owner, My, proudly told me that they are the oldest in the city. Until I find another old establishment, Chuyen Ky and Thien Nam are the relics of the old Saigon. Chuyen Ky 65-67 Ton That Dam, D1 Cho Cu (Old Market) 08 38 29 01 50 10.30am-9.30pm
Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits. Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.
at home BAKERIES
Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am. Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs. Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.
DELIVERY
Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.
Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com
GROCERIES
Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches. Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices. Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients. Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices. Metro Anphu An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything. Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.
LIQUOR & WINE
The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.
listings
culture CLASSES
AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis. Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1. Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.
CINEMAS
Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule. CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles. Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions. Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted. Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).
IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals. Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.
GALLERIES
a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm. Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists. Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary. Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese. Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples. San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public. TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.
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listings
By Phil Kelly
fitness
Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.
HIIT the Cardio For years the fitness world has prescribed Steady State Cardio (SSC) as the preferred method for burning fat, losing weight and getting into shape. But now it all seems to be about High Intensity Interval training (HIIT). Is SSC or HIIT the best form of exercise for burning fat and losing weight? It really is about application. To help you understand cardio training, you need to know about fuel systems. The sources of energy you use when performing exercise varies depending on the intensity at which it is performed. At low intensity (easy pace) your body should convert fuel from predominantly fat stores and at high intensity from carbohydrates (glycogen in the body). Your body can convert energy quicker from carbohydrates than from fats. Hence, as intensity increases the continuum of fuel will switch to carbohydrates to provide muscles with fuel for quick energy. The continuum of fuel is important to understand because at different intensities you will burn more or less fat even if the overall calorie expenditure is greater. For example, individuals working at 25 percent VO2max (low intensity) at about 250kcal burnt per hour utilise 24g of fat for fuel. But those working at 85 percent VO2max (high intensity) at about 1000kcal burnt per hour utillise only 23g of fat for fuel. This is a great illustration of how total calories out doesn’t necessarily equal fat loss. HIIT is popular because it burns a good amount of calories, continues to burn calories 54 asialife HCMC
sports & leisure
after exercise and elicits beneficial fat-burning hormones in a shorter period of time. Studies have shown that as little as 10 minutes of HIIT can give you great fat-burning benefits. SSC does not produce the beneficial fat-burning hormones that HIIT does and you need more time to complete workouts. If you are exercising using SSC, you need to choose your intensity wisely. Low intensity SSC is great for training your body to be an efficient fat-burning machine and is an important part of a healthy existence. If you always exercise at high intensities, then you are training your internal systems to burn carbs at rest. Eating starchy foods and simple sugars also trains your body to use carbs for fuel, preventing your body from burning optimal amounts of fat. The basic truth is that we need to move, but where people go wrong is the intensity at which they exercise. My advice is to incorporate both HIIT and SSC into your schedule to maximise health, fitness and weight management. You need to train smarter by matching your intensity to the training goal and eliciting beneficial fatburning hormones. Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home. Contact him though his website Phil-kelly.com or Facebook. com/BodyExpertSystemVietnam.
CRICKET
Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn
DANCING
DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.
FITNESS & YOGA
AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow
Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga. California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more. Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down. Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps. Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered. L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance. NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout. Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes. Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation. Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.
FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome. RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments. Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.
GOLF
Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels. Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments. Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available. Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium. Vietnam Golf and Country Club
Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.
LEISURE Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points. Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams. Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores. Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays. Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information. Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information. X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.
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listings
health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE
American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treat-
sback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics. Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia. Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides
acupuncture lessons.
DENTAL Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality. European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08
3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.
Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.
MEDICAL
Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine. Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang. HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong. Tel: 0650 3636068
www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.
International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.
Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.
SKINCARE
The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products. The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.
LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn
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- www.linhfurniture.com
listings
family ACTIVITIES Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings. DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student. Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.
BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable. Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.
CLOTHES DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock. Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. New-
born to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.
EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities. The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese. International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other
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languages and cultures.
By Paul McLardie
PERSONAL FINANCE University Challenge Expat children are now international people in their own right and therefore it makes sense for them to look at university education away from the natural and obvious choice of your home country. So, it's best to start planning early. You should have started thinking about this before your child leaves primary school, or middle school at the latest. The basic facts of studying abroad are clear. The tuition fees are high, accommodation is expensive for what you get, and travel costs will be also be high because visits will most likely be within holiday peak season. So what should you do? 5 Years Away 1) Start a lower risk savings plan 2) Budget and start paying for additional tutoring requirements 3) Start to research the costs of international study It is common practise to have separate life insurance that pays out when the child goes to university or when a parent dies. This way, you have planned for all eventualities. The tutoring requirements are down to your teachers and your child. If you want your child to go to a great university or Ivy League college, can you afford it? Find out. 3 Years Away 1) Decide on a budget for tuition costs 2) Find universities within that budget and also if they have any bursaries available for international students 3) Scholarships are out there. 58 asialife HCMC
Find them. The hardest one by far out of these three is deciding on a budget. This does not just cover the tuition costs, but also living and travel expenses. 2 years Away 1) College or university counsellor 2) Make sure your investment is liquid enough 3) Entrance examination payments Most international schools have teachers that are employed as counsellors as a part of their job to prepare you, and your child for the upcoming shift in life. Find out who they are and speak to them. Move your investments that may have been in longer-term savings to more liquid assets. You will be needing this money soon, so don’t have it tied up somewhere that you can’t access it. One Year to go 1) Unexpected travel costs 2) School fees ready 3) Local bank account Have the school fees ready, even if it is just the deposit at this time. Ask your bank about the possibility of opening up a bank account in the foreign country for your child when time comes around. Five years is not a long time, so start looking into all possibilities early. If you do not, your pocket and the education of your child may suffer.
Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com
International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad. Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.
Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.
tionally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn. Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.
ENTERTAINMENT
Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more. Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes. Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese. The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your palce for
listings
living BUSINESS GROUPS
SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.
AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com
Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 7827 Fax: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.
British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org
Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and interna-
AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org
CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.
Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com
CAMERAS
Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses. Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.
Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available. Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.
COMPUTERS
Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.
stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.
izing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.
SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.
IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.
CONSULTING
Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.
iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.
Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.
Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.
Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.
Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC
Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors special-
Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam. Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals. International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes. Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com
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Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting. TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.
By Elizabeth Png
HOME IMPROVEMENT Chemical-free Cleaning Commercial chemical-based cleaners can seem like the easiest, most convenient solutions to various stubborn stains around the home. The chemicals used in these cleaners can have unwanted side effects, however, leading to eye or skin irritations, allergic reactions or dizziness. Non-toxic home cleaning products are available commercially to help with this problem, but a more inexpensive solution might be to look at your own kitchen for natural alternatives to cleaning your home. White vinegar A natural all-purpose cleaner, white vinegar’s acidic properties can cleanse and disinfect. To use vinegar as a cleaning solution, mix it with equal parts water in a spray bottle. Don’t worry about possible smells from using vinegar – it disappears when it dries. Use vinegar to clean and disinfect your stovetop and floors. For gas hobs, remove the pan and wok supports to clean them and the area around the burners. For those with stubborn stains on their laundry, soak the clothes in a vinegar and water solution, or add vinegar to a wash cycle. The vinegar can also be a natural fabric softener. Baking soda Baking soda is just as versatile as vinegar, with the ability to clean, deodorise and scour surfaces. It gently scrubs surfaces without scratching them. Place a box of baking soda in the fridge or freezer to absorb odours or sprinkle in 60 asialife HCMC
shoes, rubbish bins or laundry to remove smells. Like vinegar, baking soda can also be used to remove stains and soften laundry. Lemon Juice One of the most acidic fruits, lemon juice can be used to bleach, clean and disinfect, being effective against most household bacteria. Lemon juice is great for cleaning and shining brass and copper or used to degrease dishes. Mixing lemon juice with vinegar or baking soda can make an effective cleaning paste. Another useful combination is a cup of olive oil with a half cup of lemon juice to create a hardwood furniture polish. Cornstarch The absorbent qualities of cornstarch means it’s great for removing oil and grease stains on countertops or clothes. It’s also commonly used to clean windows, polish furniture and shampoo carpets and rugs. For cleaning countertops and stoves, create a paste of cornstarch and water and use it to scrub the surfaces. For windows, create a solution of cornstarch and water before wiping the window. To prevent streaks, mix a bit of vinegar into the solution or dry with a dry cloth once the surface is cleaned. This works for cleaning mirrors, too.
Elizabeth Png is the brand and consumer communications director for Electrolux Vietnam. She can be contacted at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux. com.
Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies. Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.
DECOR
Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches. Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves. Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like. Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25. Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.
OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm. Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh. Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags. Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.
ELECTRONICS
Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators. Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories. Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appli-
ance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty. Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.
FURNITURE
Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black. AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more. Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.
Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English. Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe. Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.
LINH‘S WHITE
37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces. Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284
137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use. The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.
LEGAL
Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam. Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam. Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam. Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets. Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others. Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects. Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.
LIGHTING
Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely
By Greg Ohan
HOT PROPERTY Politics, Protest & Property Vietnam has long been renowned as a safe investment destination. Now that reputation is seriously under threat. The fact that property investors from China, Hong Kong and Singapore have become reluctant to visit Vietnam as planned exemplifies the long-term effect of the recent protests on not just Vietnam’s investment market but the country as a destination overall. Strong fundamentals helped save the Vietnam property market in 2013. The question now is: what will happen to Vietnam’s property market for the rest of 2014 and which sectors might be impacted the most due to the chaos? While some foreign investors view recent protests as catastrophic, everyone (at least on the home front) is hoping this is just a temporary issue which officials have clamped down on. Businesses in the supply chain were the first to feel the impact of riots as Vietnam has become a crucial link in the global supply chain. With no major supply chain disruptions reported, many ransacked factories have already resumed operations. However, it has caused a major hiccup for Vietnam’s tourism industry, just when Vietnam got back on the right track! Chinese tourists comprise the largest proportion of foreign tourist arrivals in Vietnam, accounting for almost 25 percent. Since tensions regarding
the oil rig deployment rose, the number of visitors from China has fallen significantly. This also negatively impacted tourists from Chinese-speaking markets like Singapore, Taiwan and Hong Kong. A number of chartered flights from Hong Kong, and Macau to Da Nang, for instance, have been cancelled. While recent events will not have a significant impact on Foreign Direct Investment inflow to Vietnam, the riots have created a real lack of confidence in the country’s ability to foresee and manage crises. Foreign firms have chosen to invest in Vietnam because they count on the stability that the government ensures and this is now being seriously questioned. While this is particularly frustrating as the real market, especially the residential sector, began to experience healthy growth, I remain positive and upbeat about the market outlook. The fundamental features of the economy have not changed: economic production improvement, inflation at a 10-year low and a stabilized banking sector. Let’s hope for all our sakes that there will be no further turmoil so that Vietnam can re-assert itself with investors. Greg Ohan is the national director of CBRE, a Fortune 500 real estate services provider. Email your questions to greg.ohan@cbre.com or visit Cbrevietnam.com. asialife HCMC 61
expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship. Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.
MOTORBIKES
By Gary Woollacott
People matter Social Networks & Recruitment There are any number of recruitment agencies out there who present themselves as headhunters when in truth their original research might be limited to a quick look at a social networking sites such as LinkedIn. Trying to recruit in such a manner carries the risk that the person being recruited isn’t the best in the market, which may not matter for a more junior position. But if you are recruiting a future leader of the company, you might want to be sure you are getting better quality. And that is just one of the problems of relying on other people’s databases; there's simply no assurance as to the quality of what you’re getting. I know of some recruitment agencies in the region that have migrated their database to a social networking site. In return for the convenience, the agency pays a modest amount each month. However, this strikes me as a bit rash. What happens if the website suddenly demands, say, $10,000 per month to access the website and the information they have so carefully compiled? Perhaps the amount settled on would be less, but that’s going to entail some pain and business disruption either way. Some people would argue that social networking sites simply aren't going to do that, since it would cut off a wonderful revenue stream that might not return if the policy changed. But let’s not forget that some social networking sites have been tinkering with 62 asialife HCMC
privacy policies, fees and/or other settings for years and broadly getting away with it. We consumers have short memories and we are fairly forgiving of all but the most serious transgressions. Ultimately time will tell: most of these sites didn’t exist a decade ago and it will be interesting to see what comes along, if anything, to replace them, or at least provide some serious competition. For our part, we have built our proprietary database and, like all headhunters, regularly dip into social networks to see what we can find out. But we haven’t made the mistake of relying on those social networks to support our business. As I've said, you never know when that tap might get turned off or cost too much to turn back on. Instead, we have focused our energies on building our own networks inside and outside of the countries in which we operate. We think that's the most sustainable model for our purposes. I will stress that it’s for our purposes only; other recruitment agencies may have very different views. What matters, at the end of the day, is getting the best person for the job. As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here. Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.
Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode. Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards. Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids. Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.
REAL ESTATE
Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym. CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent. Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city. EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.
Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales. Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.
Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas. Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more. Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service. Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.
RECRUITMENT
First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services. Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000
www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising. Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net. TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.
RELOCATION AGENTS
AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to
and/or from any location worldwide.
Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information. UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble. Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.
STATIONERY
Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.
Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you. Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive. Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone. Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.
Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com
And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.
Go knowing
www.crownrelo.com/vietnam
listings
fashion By Christina Yu
FASHION RULES Fashion Shows Since I’ve been in Vietnam, I’ve had the opportunity to attend several large and small-scale fashion shows. Believe me, fashion shows here are vastly different from fashion shows in Milan, Paris, London and New York. I think few designers here understand that there are also fashion rules on fashion shows: Rule no 1 – Short is better than long Almost 90 percent of the shows I have been to are at least one hour long. It should not be more than 30 minutes max and leave the audience hungry for more. Most shows here are exciting and fresh for the first 15 minutes, but by the end of each show, all the outfits blur into one. A fashion show is supposed to showcase the designer’s best pieces (not all pieces) from the whole collection. A collection should be diverse but unified. Standout pieces should wow the press and leave a deep impression while commercial pieces should be left at the shop and not on the catwalk. Rule no 2 – Be seen after and not prior A few designers here like to socialise with VIP clients and press before the show and I can never understand why. You’d never see Karl Lagerfeld or Tom Ford before the show as they will be too busy putting the final touches on models. No matter how famous you are, most designers are keen to see clients and press after the show. I've heard of an after 64 asialife HCMC
party but have you ever heard of a prior party? Rule no 3 – Goodies are good If designers are not going to have an after party, then they should prepare a goody bag. It does not have to be an expensive item but something relevant to the brand or the collection’s theme. Most will have a little press release so that friends of clients and press can know more about the brand and the collection. A little memento thanking guests for coming goes a long way and helps them remember your collection. Don’t forget, most editors go to many shows a season, not just one. Rule no 4 – Dress respectably and fashionably Guests here either wear the most casual or formal outfit, like a ball gown, which I think is hilarious. The proper attire should really be an outfit from the designer’s brand, if you have one. If you don’t, then at least dress in your favourite designer’s brand. In any case, it should be trendy and worn with attitude. Any kind of fashion show, no matter big or small, is an expensive event with a lot of thought and expenses that go into it. Respect the work of the designer and the occasion by dressing respectfully. Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipa-nima.com or visit Ipa-nima.com.
ACCESSORIES
Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more. Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices. Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night. Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes. Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses. Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available. Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags. Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.
Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.
ACTIVE WEAR
Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes. TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.
READY TO WEAR unisex
FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices. Ginkgo Concept Store 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 0905 493 148 www.gingko-vietnam.com A unique shopping space that offers an original and creative mix of made-inVietnam clothing from local designers, artisans and brands that stay true to the company’s environmentally friendly principles. L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade. Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres. Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.
men
Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong. Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212
Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear. Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.
women BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches. ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste. Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear. Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses. Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear. Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand. Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788
66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.
SHOES
Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices. Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags. Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.
97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.
Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market. Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.
TAILORS
Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.
Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories. Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30. Fabric Street
Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.
Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops. Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between. Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists. Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads. Star Polo
57 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 8 66 756 956
asialife HCMC 65
Errazuriz Wine Dinner at the Caravelle
Bourbon Street Jazz Festival
Photos by Adam Astley.
66 66 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC
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DISTRICT 4
radar A real rib-tickler
Thepoke.co.uk Originally a free magazine distributed through independent record stores in the UK, The Poke now has around three million visitors a month looking for a dose of unmistakably British humour. Similar in some ways to the US-based The Onion, the site carries a mix of satirical news pieces, videos and other quirky goings-on. The site also aggregates other suitably amusing content from around the web. The founders of the site say their aim is to champion new comedic talent and give them a platform to showcase their work. Fair enough, but it also uses a pretty clever business model to generate large amounts of content for little or no outlay. Either way, there is plenty of amusing stuff here, and as the site's motto says, it is 'time well wasted'.
Screen time compendium
Dimovie.vn For English-speaking moviegoers in Saigon and Hanoi this website is ridiculously handy. It brings together all the current and upcoming movies at all the major cinemas in both cities. You can select a movie, get a synopsis or watch the trailer, then search which theatre it is playing at and when. This approach can be a little hit and miss as not all films are playing in every cinema, but you can choose 'all theatres' and go from there. Alternatively, if you just want to see what is playing at your local theatre, just go to that theatre and then select 'all movies'. The listings are searchable going forward for five days, and the results also tell you if the movie is in 2D or 3D, the spoken language and available subtitles. Now if the site could just include a menu of snack options for each place they would really be on to something.
Let's get it on
Porktrack.com Oh the Interwebs, so good for weird, random and slightly unsavoury ways to waste time. In this age of literally too much information, this site takes you into the dark heart of TMI-land. Namely, what popular song your parents were doin’ it to when you were conceived. Yes, the appropriately titled Porktrack. com uses your birth date, subtracts roughly 40 weeks and then matches that against 40 or so years of Billboard and other chart data to find what was topping the charts during those fateful days. Actually, I'm not sure if this site is just slightly 'ewwww' (I mean, who wants to think about their parents having sex?) and a diversion for a minute or two, or if it somehow signals the end of days for the internet and humanity itself. Apparently, though, Frankie Valli's 'My Eyes Adored You' was in part responsible for my existence.
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The Beat – With Q4 radio
Vietnam’s Metal Scene By The Baron A lot of metal fans underestimate the talents that exist away from hot metal spots, which are mainly concentrated in the US and Europe, where it all began. So if you ask an ordinary metal fan if he or she were at any point familiar with metal bands that come from Asia, you would definitely get a ‘no,’ which doesn’t necessarily signify narrow minds but rather indicates not being removed from what the American and European continents might consider the norm. To be honest, it is always tough to spot good Asian metal bands that can really dig original material rather than being a copy of a copy. But if you were to stumble into one, you would raise your eyebrows to the tunes composed by some Asian metal bands for their great talent and deep understanding of such music. Vietnam, as well as other Asian countries, possesses a great base of metal bands. Not all of them are superior for sure, but some are just great to listen to and to add to your shelves. Rarely will you find good quality bands that fuse the heavy metal genre with gothic tunes in a perfect way, as it is a simple idea on paper but a complicated one when it comes to execution. The Vietnamese band Black Infinity have succeeded in accomplishing one of the hardest metal equations all
72 asialife HCMC
through the years of their existence. Formed in 2006, this band knows exactly how to roll the dice in each and every track and album they’ve composed since then. With a discography that features two full-length albums released in 2009 and 2014, this six-piece band, three of whom belong to an older Vietnamese power/ speed metal band, have conquered the country to become one of the biggest Vietnamese metal bands today. Black Infinity released their 2014 album The Illuminati of Love and Death I & II early this year, featuring 22 tracks of nothing but different heavy metal sub-genres that are fused with gothic touches. The album is crowned with beautiful cover artwork that reflects their solid metal inclination along with gothic romance. Going through the album, there is nothing more stunning than finding yourself standing face-to-face with interesting material individually reflected in each and every track. Allow your ears to bounce between different heavy metal sub-genres and enjoy those hidden electronic tunes that will absolutely capture your ear from the first note played. A final piece of advice: keep your ears up like a clever German shepherd, for Asia has more talents than the ordinary metal fan might think.
soundfix soundfix Parquet Courts Sunbathing Animal
There’s a beautiful chaos to Parquet Courts’ music. Songs swell, dive, crash and idle, defying predictability without losing some sense of overall purpose. The foursome’s approach to indie punk rock elicits countless comparisons to Pavement, with flavours of the Velvet Underground, Sublime and Cake. But it’s hard to tightly pack the band in any one box, as their third album Sunbathing Animal proves. Frontman Andrew Savage’s vocals are central to their sound, with a deadpan tone that glides from down-tempo slacker songs to feverish hardcore tracks. ‘Dear Ramona’ best exemplifies the former, whereas ‘Ducking & Dodging’ has a rhythm fitting the track’s name.
Popcaan Where We Come From
As the protégé of Vybz Kartel, Popcaan has been an emerging figure in dancehall for several years. Where We Come From is the Jamaican artist’s debut album, the next step in a career based on singles. The space of a full-length allows Popcaan, née Andre Jay Sutherland, to explore slower tempos and conscious lyrics, a contrast to his previous dance-focused releases. Produced by Brooklyn-based Dre Skull, who worked on the artist formerly known as Snoop Dogg’s (now Snoop Lion) reggae crossover, Popcaan’s record is poised to break outside its genre. And with the help of rapper Pusha T’s appearance on ‘Hustle’, it may very well succeed.
album review
endorsed
by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen
First Aid Kit
Kelis
Stay Gold
Food
“Looking straight out on the road, can’t worry about what’s behind you, what’s coming for you further up the road,” proclaims First Aid Kit on ‘My Silver Lining’, their third album opener. Stay Gold is named after a Robert Frost poem about the transience of nature, part of the record’s overall theme on the idea of moving forward. Fortunately, the Swedish duo – made up of Johanna and Klara Söderberg – are in a good position to look either backwards or forwards. Their delicate yet powerful form of country folk has earned critical acclaim around the world, and their new material – rich with ethereal harmonies, acoustic melodies and lyrics worth quoting – promises good things ahead.
Best known for her milkshake that brings all the boys to the yard, Kelis has come a long way since that 2003 pop hit. With the commercial success of ‘Milkshake’, she could have gone the way of Rihanna, but instead chose to forge a different path. The Kelis of today creates music that is more sophisticated and substantial. Food is her sixth album, featuring nosh-inspired track names like ‘Jerk Ribs’, ‘Breakfast’ and ‘Friday Fish Fry’. A Cordon Bleu-trained chef, Kelis serves up a scramble of R&B, rock, electro and soul. Whether crooning with Tunde Adebimpe on ‘Bless the Telephone’ or channelling Shirley Bassey on ‘Dreamer’, Kelis is simply delicious.
Lagavulin By Brett Davis It was late December 2009, in the fallow couple of days between Christmas and New Year, that I found myself wandering the cobblestone streets of Edinburgh's gothic Old Town. It was a brutally cold winter that saw record snowfalls across Europe and road and rail transport come to a halt. On the corner of Cowgate and the steeply sloping Niddy Street, not far from where I was staying, was a bar called Bannerman's. It was not the sort of place you would automatically associate with whisky connoisseurs, more like pints of lager drained and then smashed across the skull of the next person to look at you cockeyed. The bar staff, like most of the patrons in the front bar, had a fine assortment of tatts and piercings. Yet while the rockabilly music was blaring in the front bar, the lounge was relatively peaceful with some scattered chairs and tables. I went to the bar and ordered a Laphroig in as local a tone as my Australian accent would allow. The drink was poured and no scorn or fists followed. Next time up I decided to lay a little of the knowledge acquired at the Scotch Whisky Centre on the guys
with the sleeve tatts, flat caps and nose rings behind the bar. We talked a little about Highland whiskys, a mention of Speyside, certainly not Lowland. But it was really all about the Islands. The Hebrides, those craggy, wind-blown outposts along Scotland's western coast. Moving through Skye, then Oban, we got to Islay. The suggestion was that I try a Lagavulin, a drop I admitted to not hearing of previously. The boys said it had the peat and strength of the likes of Laphroig, but had a smoother, more balanced finish. I later found this was due to the long, patient malting and distilling process, and the aging in the seasidebonded warehouses. Lagavulin has been produced in the same (legal) distillery since 1816, although informal operations have existed in the same place since the 1700s. It is, to my taste, simply the finest single malt scotch whisky there is. It has a rich and fascinating history, but at the end of the day it all comes down to the taste. And that is why it has stood the test of time and will continue to be a whisky that produces a singular devotion.
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boxoffice
22 Jump Street
Transformers: Age of Extinction
Guardians of the Galaxy
Dawn of the Planet of the Apes
After making their way through high school (twice), big changes are in store for officers Schmidt (Jonah Hill) and Jenko (Channing Tatum) when they go deep undercover at a local college. But when Jenko meets a kindred spirit on the football team, and Schmidt infiltrates the bohemian art major scene, they begin to question their partnership. Now they don't have to just crack the case - they have to figure out if they can have a mature relationship. If these two overgrown adolescents can grow from freshmen into real men, college might be the best thing that ever happened to them.
Transformers: Age of Exctinction marks the fourth installment in the Transformers movie franchise. Four years after the catastrophic events in Chicago, Earth has recovered from the great war between the Autobots and the Decepticons. But when Cade Yeager (Mark Wahlberg), a struggling inventor, and his daughter Tessa (Nicola Peltz) discover Optimus Prime, a new fight against the Autobots, Decepticons and a paranoid government official emerges. Cade must join the Autobots while Optimus Prime must align with the ancient Dinobots to save Earth from extinction as the Decepticons plot to destroy the Earth once again.
Marvel's Guardians of the Galaxy introduces brash adventurer Peter Quill (Chris Pratt), who finds himself the object of an unrelenting bounty hunt after stealing a mysterious orb coveted by Ronan (Lee Pace), a powerful villain with ambitions that threaten the entire universe. To evade Ronan, Quill is forced into an uneasy truce with a quartet of disparate misfits – Rocket (Bradley Cooper), a gun-toting raccoon, Groot (Vin Diesel), a tree-like humanoid, the deadly and enigmatic Gamora (Zoe Saldana) and the revenge-driven Drax the Destroyer (David Bautista) – meanwhile discovering the true power of the orb and the menace it poses to the cosmos.
A growing nation of genetically evolved apes led by Caesar (Andy Serkis) is threatened by a band of human survivors of the devastating virus unleashed a decade earlier. They reach a fragile peace, but it proves short-lived, as both sides are brought to the brink of a war that will determine who will emerge as Earth's dominant species. The movie, also starring Gary Oldman and Keri Russell, is the sequel to Rise of the Planet of the Apes (2011) reboot of Planet of the Apes (1968) and the eighth film in the entire franchise.
Opening Dates CINEMAS CGV CGV.vn
Galaxy Galaxycine.vn
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22 Jump Street (20 June) Transformers: Age of Extinction (27 June) 22 Jump Street (20 June) Transformers: Age of Extinction (27 June) Dawn of the Planet of the Apes (11 July) Guardians of the Galaxy (1 August)
The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.
bookshelf Hard Choices Hillary Rodham Clinton Simon & Schuster Since leaving her post as the US Secretary of State at the beginning of 2013, Hillary Clinton has been hard at work on a memoir of her time as one of the most powerful women in the world. This much-anticipated chronicle gives a personal account of the crises and challenges she faced in helping the US steer its course in the international arena. From facing a rising China, growing threats from Iran and North Korea to the upheavals of the Arab Spring, Clinton and her colleagues were at the centre of world events that will reshape the landscape of the 21st century.
All The Light We Cannot See Anthony Doerr Scribner
Set in occupied France during the Second World War, this novel charts the journey of a young girl and boy from opposite sides of the conflict whose paths collide. When MarieLaure is 12, the Nazis occupy Paris and the blind girl and her father flee to the walled citadel of Saint-Malo, where Marie-Laure’s reclusive great-uncle lives in a tall house by the sea. In a mining town in Germany, the orphan Werner becomes an expert at building and fixing radios, a talent that first wins him a place in the Hitler Youth, then a special assignment to track the resistance. More and more aware of the human cost of his intelligence, Werner travels through the heart of the war and, finally, into Saint-Malo.
#Girlboss Sophia Amoruso Portfolio Part memoir and part business success self-help book, Sophia Amoruso charts her journey from dumpster diving and petty theft to becoming the founder, CEO and creative director of Nasty Gal, a $100 million plus online fashion retailer with more than 350 employees. There is attitude galore with pieces of wisdom such as "you are not a special snowflake" and "failure is your invention”, as well as behind the scenes stories of Nasty Gal's meteoric rise. Amoruso's philosophy is that success is about trusting your instincts and following your gut, knowing which rules to follow and which to break.
No Place to Hide: Edward Snowden, the NSA, and the U.S. Surveillance State Glenn Greenwald Metropolitan Books In May 2013, Edward Snowden, a young systems administrator contracting for the National Security Agency, fled the United States for Hong Kong with documents containing staggering details of the NSA's top secret surveillance programs. There he arranged a meeting with Guardian columnist Glenn Greenwald, and so began the most explosive leak of classified material since the Pentagon Papers. No Place to Hide opens with Greenwald’s tense account of his secretive initial encounters with Snowden and descriptions of the NSA’s vast information collection apparatus. Greenwald also discusses what it means both for individuals and for a nation’s political health when a government pries so invasively into the private lives of its citizens.
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ODD ONE OUT This month, Dana Filek-Gibson looks for adults in Ho Chi Minh City and finds none.
" I feel compelled to say that, as someone trying to be more of a grownup, Ho Chi Minh City is a great place to remain an adolescent. Whether you're a businessman or a banh mi lady, no one in this city walks around pretending to be too old for cartoons or an afternoon of amateur glamour shots in the park." 76 asialife HCMC
Last month, between researching dildos on the internet (for WORK), cursing in traffic and catching up on the newsfeeds of my more attractive Facebook friends, I thought about filing my Canadian taxes. Of course, it never happened. I'm still trying to remember why expats bother in the first place. But at some point this month it crossed my mind. To be clear, taking stock of how much money I earn excites me about as much as the queue at the supermarket or getting into a verbal altercation with a gas station attendant. In fact, so determined am I to avoid my TaxAct questionnaire altogether that June is not so much an annual reflection on my finances as it is a renewal of my vow to coast through life scraping together a negligible paycheque, never buying nice things and refusing to care for children or the elderly. But someone recently spent the time and money to print my name on business cards, and so I've really been trying to pass for an adult these days. Using the portion of my income not devoted to coffee, boxed sets and Japanese takeaway, I've bought shoes without holes in them. I've been eating less chocolate for breakfast. Sometimes,
if I'm feeling especially mature, I'll even put on an outfit that makes me look like I was raised by other humans. It's not much but, as they say, it's something. Specifically, something that gets ignored during happy hours and on weekends, when I'm feeling hungry or during sudden bouts of ADHD. I haven't altogether abandoned the idea of adulthood but I feel compelled to say that, as someone trying to be more of a grown-up, Ho Chi Minh City is a great place to remain an adolescent. Whether you're a businessman or a banh mi lady, no one in this city walks around pretending to be too old for cartoons or an afternoon of amateur glamour shots in the park. Instead, even the most accomplished professionals finish their midday meal, put that computer on hibernate and slip silently beneath their desk for a half-hour nap or a quick game of Candy Crush. CEOs and xe om drivers alike never stop asking, “How many beers can you drink?” And on the streets of Saigon, every Nguyen, Phong and Harry has cast themselves in the starring role of their own imaginary, action-packed 17th installment of The Fast and the Furious: HCMC Traffic. As
someone looking to the outside world for examples of maturity, I'm coming up empty. Of course, people try to offer sage advice on adulthood. For as long as I can remember, I've been encouraged to “just be myself.” While I appreciate the sentiment, this is perhaps not the image I'm going for. As recently as last month, myself drank a half-glass of chardonnay at a local restaurant, stood up in the middle of dinner service and convinced four of my closest friends to hold still while I traced their profiles onto our paper tablecloth in crayon because I felt it would be artistic. Myself is fun, but she's not the type of person you'd trust with breakable objects or anything that requires feeding. So here I stand, torn between maturity and a burning impulse to go out and indiscriminately shop for things. As I struggle to find the guidance of an adult, I can feel the very things that define who I am: caffeine, road rage, the wardrobe of a 12-yearold boy, fighting to remain. In a city where no one really acts their age, how does anyone grow up? Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.
My Designer Dog: Katie Jacobs reports on her adventures in Hanoi puppyhood.
I open the bedroom door with trepidation, preparing myself for the worst. Peering cautiously around the doorframe I see her sitting patiently on the floor, tail gently wagging, a slight drool of excitement emanating from her thick, pink tongue. I notice the picture, previously leaning against the wall, now knocked over but luckily still intact. Relief washes over me as I make my way gently towards her, no sudden movements. Her dark eyes fixate on my sleep-crumpled face and I swear she is smiling as she slowly stands, stretches and proceeds to release a steady stream of urine onto the wooden floor boards. And so commences another day of Hanoi puppy parenthood. Marmalade has now been part of the family for a total of seven nights. That makes it one week of living my lifelong dream of owning a puppy and one week of running around after 22 pounds of slobbery, stinky, hair-shedding, paperchewing, golden retriever mess. Recently, Marmalade and I ventured out to the nearby park for some serious puppy socialising which, according to Ceaser Milan, dog whisperer and my new guru, is essential puppy protocol. My neighbour,
veteran dog owner and all round canine expert, fills me in on the comings and goings of the park. “It’s not just about the socialising and exercise, it’s also about showing off your dog,” she says. This becomes apparent as we are approached by a woman and her two daughters. “What is she?” she demands, her daughters gleefully descending on Marmalade who is chewing her way through the wire fence. “A golden retriever,” I reply, watching her abandon the fence in favour of rolling in the mud. The woman nods in approval, looking at the rolling muddy mess, “very nice, very nice dog”. A few months ago, in my pre-puppy days, I met a college-aged girl walking her Siberian Husky. His name was Lam she informed me, short for Lamborghini. As I glanced around at the other dog owners assembled in the park, I realised that buying a dog in Hanoi is much like buying a new car, only the car won’t chew your
Friday June 13th, 2014 5.00am: scratch, scratch... I roll over in bed and grimace as the time lights up on the iPhone. 5.01am: scratch, scratch... Thump I bury my head in the pillow, hoping the whimpering outside the bedroom door will stop. 5.02am: scratch... thump... Woof I drift into a fantasy set in a time before we thought we needed a new addition to the family. 5.03am: CRASH! Ok I’m up.
furniture. I had entered the world of the designer dog, where the big and fluffy take the bone. First up we have the Chihuahuas and Miniature Pinchers; like a reliable Hyundai, the pups are compact, convenient and low maintenance. These dogs enter into the dog world with minimal fuss and money required. Then there are the Poodles, energetic, dependable and the most common canine to roam the grassy slopes. These breeds are the high-end Hondas of dogs. They show a certain level of prestige and status with the right touch of fun. Moving up, we have the mid-size breeds. Labradors, Golden Retrievers and Huskies. These fluffy, playful mounds of happiness are like a nice Mercedes. Dignified and classy, but with plenty of torque, they attract all the right attention. For the macho types there are the shepherds and pitbulls. Nice-looking dogs
with a quality build and unparalleled strength, these are the equivalent of the Hummer. Unnecessarily large and powerful, they are tough, they are alpha and they want to make sure everyone knows it. Finally we have the rare and expensive breeds, the Rolls Royce of the Hanoi dog scene. “I saw a Tibetan Mastiff once,” says my neighbour, “rumour has it they go for over a million dollars in China so imagine how much they cost here.” This breed is all about show and the high price tag ensures they are always top dog. As I sit here finishing this column, my phone rings and my husband’s frantic voice comes through from where he’s walking Marmalade. “She’s eating plastic, what do I do?” After some fumbling on the other end of the phone, the line goes dead. A few minutes later he calls back. “Crisis averted, I got it out”, he says proudly. “Oh no, wait a sec, Marmalade, no, stop that, gotta go.” Shaking my head as I hang up the phone, the status associated with Hanoi’s dog scene makes me laugh. In the end a dog is a dog, no matter the breed they are always going to wee on the floor. asialife HCMC 77
pub quiz One to Ten 1. Which Ken Kesey novel was made into a film that won five Academy Awards? 2. In which American sitcom did Ashton Kutcher replace Charlie Sheen? 3. Which colour ball is worth three points in snooker? 4. In which sport is “fore” called as a warning? 5. The Five Precepts constitute the basic code of ethics for which religion? 6. How many field goals are needed to score six points in American football? 7. Who played the serial killer in the film Se7en? 8. In the Australian horror comedy film, what did the cars do? 9. To complete a nine-dart finish, what is the most common total required with the last three darts? 10.Who was Dudley Moore’s Ten in the film of that name?
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23. Who was the last Tudor monarch? 24. What was the last state to join the United States of America? 25. What was the last album recorded by the Beatles?
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11. What is the name of the Indian spring festival where coloured powder or water are thrown? 12. What type of fruit did Billie Holliday sing about? 13. What is the name of the holiday celebrated at the end of Ramadan? 14. What does the X stand for in Xmas? 15. In which part of Europe is Nov 30 a bank holiday?