AsiaLIFE Vietnam June 2014

THIS WAY UP

HANDLE WITH CARE

LEAVING

SGN

/ /

WRAPPED UP & MOVING ON

ISBN: 978 - 604 - 905 - 485-3

AsiaLIFE HCMC 3

Asialifemagazine.com

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

JUNE 2014

VOLUME 75

24

FRONT

FOOD

NEWS ................................................................ 0 6

PROPAGANDA

EVENTS ............................................................. 0 8 STREET SMART ................................................ 0 9 Q &A With David Perry ................................................ 1 2 PHOTO ESSAY

BIS Art Exhibition ................................................. 1 4

C OV E R STO RY

Vietnamese dishes receive modern upgrades ........... 3 6

PREM

Alternative veggie delights and Sunday yoga.............

VUI VUI

Rare and tasty Japanese barbecue ..........................

GAME ON

Sports pub serving hearty grub .............................

37 38 39

STYLE & DESIGN

LEAVING

Saigon: the beginning and end of a new chapter ....... 1 8

F E AT U R E S

COLOUR & SILK

Uniting artists through watercolours ....................... 3 2

RETRO MODERN

EN GUARDE

Fencing classes with a Parisian master ...................... 2 4

GOOD VIBRATIONS

Public opinion on 'Intimate lifestyle products' ........... 2 6

Designs from It's Happened to be a Closet ..............

34

COLUMNS IMBIBE ................................................................ 5 0

DRINKING WITH LIZARDS Local coffee with pet reptiles ................................. 2 8

LOCAL EATS ..................................................... 5 2

MOVING ON UP

KIDS CORNER .................................................. 5 8

The city's growing wealthy class .............................

30

PEOPLE MATTER .............................................. 6 2

HISTORY SEEKERS

Exploring ancient Duong Lam ................................ 3 2 A food frenzy in Taipei ..........................................

4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

HOME IMPROVEMENT .................................... 6 0 HOT PROPERTY ............................................... 6 1

T R AV E L

EAT STREET

FITNESS ............................................................. 5 4

34

FASHION RULES .............................................. 6 4 ODD ONE OUT .............................................. 7 6 LETTER FROM HANOI .................................... 7 7

Renaissance is an International British School offering places in Early Years - Primary Seondary. Apply as early as possible to secure a full-time place for your child.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 5

events 1, 2, 3, 4...

Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1

7 and 8 June

This month Dancenter presents 5, 6, 7, 8!, a 120-minute dance show all about numbers. The show consists of 24 dance performances, 200 dancers on stage and seven featured dance styles.

Audiences will be taken on an adventurous exploration of numbers, with dance performances themed The 7 Sins, 5 Senses, H2O, 911 and more. Infused with elegant jazz, graceful ballet, funky hip-hop, energetic Zumba, charming belly dance and soulful contemporary dance, the show will also include a special appearance from Urban Dance Group with top dancers from popular dance shows like So You Think you Can Dance and Got to Dance. In its seventh year of performing, Dancenter continues to bring audiences the very best of Vietnam’s dance talent with this latest large-scale production. Show begins at 7.30pm on 7 June and 3pm on 8 June at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1. Book tickets at reservations@dancentervn.com or call 08 35 19 44 90.

DANCE & PERFORMANCE

Mind, Flesh, Matter at Sàn Art 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh district

NOW UNTIL

31 July

Sàn Art is closing the forth session of its artist residency program with Mind, Flesh, Matter, which features works from resident artists Le Phi Long, Lai Thi Dieu Ha and Nguyen Van Du. With their respective research and work, each artist explores the relationship between the mind, body and physical environment. Lai Thi Dieu Ha explores the effects of mental trauma by working with psychologists and patients to question whether such suffering is determined by human gene or social circumstance; Nguyen Van Du contemplates violence through large-scale canvases in oil, revealing a controlled horror in thick strokes of red and pink; and Le Phi Long spent time with local families in Can Gio (a UNESCO natural reserve) to examine the trauma of industrialising societies where systems of finance produce irreversible social and natural effects. Sàn Art is at 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh district.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Galerie Quynh Presents oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe Galerie Quynh, 65 De Tham, D1

NOW UNTIL

19 July

Vietnamese artist Truc-Anh’s second solo exhibition oNiReaKHoWaRiGNoRaLiSMe will run through 19 July at Galerie Quynh’s main gallery. In his latest exhibition, Truc-Anh draws from his continued interest in the dichotomy of belief and disbelief, of certainty and doubt, reality and imagination, and the ambiguity of chaos through paintings. They are rich in overlapping tales, juxtaposed to create an enigmatic, greater narrative that functions like a puzzle. His stories do not follow a chronological or linear structure but rather a circular one. His imagery has the power of confounding and questioning reason, challenging the viewer’s knowledge. Born in 1983 in Paris, Truc-Anh has worked in a variety of media, including painting, photography, video, drawing, sculpture and performance. He splits his time between Ho Chi Minh City and Paris. Galerie Quynh is located at 65 De Tham, D1.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

For more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

Asialifemagazine.com

This Month's Cover: Art Direction: Sarah Joanne Smith Photography: Vinh Dao Model: Max

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

Correction: in the May issue of the magazine, in the story Saigon Mad Men, Daniel Gordon Jones was incorrectly identified as the manager partner of BBDO. He holds this position for the agency DDB.

6 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director: Sarah Joanne Smith sarah@asialifemagazine.com

Style Editor: Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Production Manager: Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

Editorial Director: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Photo Editor: Vinh Dao vinh@asialifemagazine.com

Contributing Editor: Dana Filek-Gibson dana@asialifemagazine.com

Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

Soul at the Sofitel Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Gabielle Jeanselme, a French classical pianist and jazz singer, will serenade guests at Boudoir Lounge from 20 May to 20 July. She has previously performed in prestigious Parisian jazz clubs like Le Petit Journal Montparnasse and Le Lionel Hampton jazz club at Meridien Hotel Paris. She has also performed in Morocco, Turkey and Sri Lanka.

Jeanselme completed her studies at the NaNOW tional Conservatory of UNTIL Music of Lyon, France, 20 July citing jazz legends like Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong as her inspirations. Boudoir Lounge is located at Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1.

Shows are Tuesday through Sunday and begin at 8pm.

MUSIC & THEATRE

WEDDING FAIR 2014 at Möevenpick HOTEL

NOW UNTIL

20 July

Passionately Swiss, Passionately Sweet is the theme of Möevenpick Hotel’s Wedding Fair 2014 on 21-21 June. The fair welcomes soon-to-be-married couples to meet the most prestigious wedding brands and service providers in the city. Professional photographers from BL Duy Studio and Ngoc Huy Studio will recommend fashionable, creative wedding photography styles.

Leading wedding experts and planners from Serenade, Chocolate Graphics, Y Tuong Card and Vietnam Wedding Planner will help couples plan their dream wedding. Couples can also enter a series of lucky draws to win prizes like a pair of wedding rings valued at VND 15 million or a VND 10 million cash voucher for wedding decoration services and 30 cupcakes from Serenade. Held in Möevenpick’s Grand Ballroom, the fair is the area’s biggest annual wedding event. For more details, email dung.ngo@moevenpick.com.

news Beauty on Your Lips and in Your Heart Fall in love with The Body Shop’s Colour Crush Lipstick, a new and super nourishing lipstick collection made from crushed pigments. From red-carpet reds to flirty pinks and au natural nudes, each cutting-edge lip colour is 100 percent cruelty free and vegetarian. An updated Colour Crush Lipstick collection now features the Colour Crush Shine (VND 289,000), which is fortified with sheer pigments and long-lasting moisture. Coated with Community Fair Trade marula oil sourced from Namibia, Colour Crush Shine gives a stunning gloss effect and fresh sorbet shine. Community Fair Trade marula oil helps Namibia’s Eudafano Women’s Co-Operative support 1,750 women to earn a fair income.

A New Caravelle Last month the Caravelle Hotel began the first of four phases of renovations, making up what will be the largest makeover by the hotel in 15 years. The first phase of the renovation will run until August and consists of refurbishing the hotel lobby and lounge. Moreover, the hotel’s Nineteen restaurant will be relocated from the ground floor to the third floor. Once those areas are completed, the hotel will upgrade all 335 rooms and suites. Expected completion of the entire project is mid2016. Today, the Caravelle Hotel remains famous as a former hotspot for foreign journalists during the Vietnam War in the ‘60s and ‘70s.

New World Saigon Celebrates 20 Years New World Saigon Hotel launched five months worth of festivities last month to celebrate 20 years in Ho Chi Minh City. Visitors who stay at the hotel from 8 May to 8 Oct 2014 will receive a 20 percent discount on the best available room rate as well as at all hotel restaurants, The Spa, and hotel services including laundry and transportation. Guests will also have a chance to win one of 20 grand prizes from a lucky draw. The culminating celebration on 8 Oct will consist of a birthday cake and champagne reception at the lobby. Tickets are available for the ensuing birthday dinner party, in which guests will enjoy a five-course dinner created by executive chefs from New World Hotels. New World is located at 76 Le Lai, D1.

To make your reservation, contact 08 38 22 88 88 or email saigon@newworldhotels.com.

8 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Six Senses Vietnam Receives New Regional Director of Marketing

Phong Nha Scouted as Possible Pan Location

by Warner Bros

Monica Majors has been promoted to the role of regional director of marketing communications for Six Senses resorts in Vietnam, transferring from Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman. In her new role she is responsible for media relations and marketing communications support for Six Senses Con Dao, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay and Ana Mandara. Prior to joining Six Senses in 2010, Monica earned a Master’s Degree in Switzerland in the spring of 2009, several years after graduating from Johnson State College in her home state of Vermont, USA.

Last month location scouts from American film giant Warner Bros paid a visit to Hang En, one of more than 300 caves within central Vietnam’s Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The 10-member group used aerial cameras to explore the site as a possible filming location for the upcoming project Pan, a retelling of the famous JM Barrie tale, which is set to star the likes of Hugh Jackman, Amanda Seyfried and Rooney Mara. Scouts will also head north to check out Quang Ninh and Ninh Binh provinces.

STREET SMART:

NGO TAT TO

Dana Filek-Gibson digs in to some top-notch street food on Binh Thanh District's Ngo Tat To. Photos by Ruben Luong.

In a city where change comes at lightning speed, what's here today could very likely be gone tomorrow. Restaurants open and close at the drop of a hat; shops move, uprooting to other streets or districts; and amid the modest buildings in Saigon's more local neighbourhoods, shiny, air-conditioned storefronts of a newer city are beginning to reach beyond the borders of District 1 and into unexpected places.

But while modern sprawl continues to move unchecked north and west of downtown Saigon, Binh Thanh's Ngo Tat To, just past the city zoo, remains pleasantly unaltered, a quiet residential enclave packed with family-run shops, small independent cafés and some stellar street food. Though a handful of recent additions, like the towering City Garden and a well-placed Circle K, are about, this short street manages to retain much of the charm of an unassuming local neighbourhood.

There is plenty to see – and eat – throughout the day, but Ngo Tat To really comes alive in the late afternoons and evenings when its best roadside offerings are on display. Barbecues sizzle and busybody vendors sling bowls of soup, plates of rice and ample amounts of ca phe sua da. Cafés ring the lower levels of the street's blocky, near-identical apartment complexes, and the tight maze of alleys that branch off to the south are lined with some of the neighbourhood's best street eats.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 9

COM TAM CHI HIEN

BUN THIT NUONG

alley between 14 and 16 Ngo Tat To

corner of Nguyen Cong Tru and Huynh Tinh Cua

Squeezed between a larger com tam restaurant and the banh mi shop on the corner of Nguyen Cong Tru, Chi Hien may take up only a single, narrow alley with her street cart and plastic furniture, but this is hands-down Binh Thanh's best broken rice. Smoke from the open barbecue wafts out onto the street, alerting passersby to the chicken and pork on offer well before they arrive, while an assembly line of busy women put together plates of rice, meat and veggies topped with some stellar fish sauce. Meals run around VND 25,000 apiece and the stall opens in the late afternoon.

Just off the main drag, this top-notch bun thit nuong stall hides amid a nearby maze of small streets, sheltered from the noise of Ngo Tat To proper. Like any street food spot, it's a well-oiled machine, with several women working in concert to churn out heaping bowls of noodles, grilled meat and fried spring rolls. Eat on the street or grab a box to go. Either way, portions are generous and well-priced at VND 30,000 apiece. A clutch of other stalls nearby also sell tasty snacks and refreshments, though most of these don't open until the late afternoon.

DAISY COFFEE

MR. 7

14B3 Ngo Tat To

71E Ngo Tat To

The super-skinny storefront at Daisy Coffee may not look like much, but both its prices and its air-conditioned space make this spot worth a mention. Scrawled across the back wall of the outdoor bar is a list of teas, smoothies and other drinks, including both Vietnamese- and European-style coffee, all of which go for between VND 15,000 and VND 40,000. Grab a seat near the street or head further back into the cool indoor area for a break from the heat and noise outside.

A newcomer to the block, Mr. 7 assembles quick and simple kebabs to go. Its 'happy combos' start at VND 17,000 with a basic drinkand-kebab deal, but you can also opt to add in French fries for an extra VND 10,000. The wide orange storefront is hard to miss thanks to its massive logo, and its prime location opposite a university means the place sees plenty of student visitors throughout the day. Bear in mind, however, that there is no seating, so you'll have to head elsewhere to enjoy your meal.

PET SHOP

CAFE 5.6.7

corner of Ngo Tat To and Nguyen Van Lac

2 Pham Viet Chanh

If you're in the market for a feathered friend look no further than Ngo Tat To's resident pet shop, where a chorus of colourful, chirpy creatures swing from the wide nylon awning above. This corner shop also stocks a range of small fish and copious amounts of creepy-crawly insects. In addition to the animals themselves, all of your pet-related accoutrements can be found here, from tanks and cleaning supplies to cages, food and other accessories.

Though it's not technically on Ngo Tat To but, rather, near it, this shop is too good to pass up. With a wide corner property and rows of plastic fold-out chairs, Cafe 5.6.7 slings the usual tea, ca phe sua da and che, but it's the smoothies that make the cafe worth a visit.

Servings are generous and not too sugary. Most run between VND 20,000 and VND 25,000 and can be enjoyed from beneath the shade of a roll-out awning or on the go.

10 AsiaLIFE HCMC

AsiaLIFE HCMC 11

David Perry Cartoonist and author of the recently published Vietnamese Wife, Western Husband Club, David Perry, talks to Brett Davis about his new book and putting his cross-cultural married life down on paper.

Why did you start doing the strip, and was it always with a book in mind?

I had the idea from sharing about the common idiosyncrasies of our wives – us Western husbands would be corralled by our Vietnamese wives so they could hang out together and not feel guilty.

We have absolutely nothing in common, and our wives were the only topic we could laugh about. What was interesting was how we could all relate to each situation. The stories would make for a great sitcom, but I had to settle for short cartoons.

Of course, I started by posting them on Facebook and then a blog, but it's nice to own a real object like a book.

You're very up-front about the material for the strip being reflective of your real life. Is it sometimes difficult to be that honest?

Honesty is the basis of our relationship. One of the reasons I first fell in love with Jenny was the fact that I could really be myself. She didn't go for the bait-and-ignore game that runs the dating scene here. She knew about my shortcomings and was interested in me anyway ... I never fail to appreciate this. The downside is that I'm subjected to a daily list of things she doesn't like: your face is too small, you're not tall, you hunch your back, etc. Maybe

12 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the cartoons are a way of coping with this brutal honesty.

How does your wife respond to some of the subject matter?

She loves it. She's a good gauge for whether or not Vietnamese will understand the cartoons.

Her main criticism is that the situations are exaggerated - too much exaggeration will go over people's heads. I rarely offend her. She understands that the characters are not necessarily us, but could be our friends, acquaintances or just totally made up.

The humour is based on differences in culture — do you think there is something unique to the Vietnamese/ Western combination or do you think it would apply across any two different cultures?

Actually, the humour is almost entirely Vietnamese-based.

Vietnamese women identify with themselves, and men (Western or Vietnamese) recognise their partners.

Vietnamese women have the healthy ability to laugh at themselves. They know when they are crazy, and they either don't care or appreciate the absurdity. The cartoon wouldn't be possible if they didn't make

up all these crazy, illogical rules.

At home, we have one kind of soy sauce for cooking and another for dipping. Why? No reason, but I'm quickly chastised for using the wrong one. We've had positive feedback from women with different Asian backgrounds, and they seem to identify with the cartoons or at least enjoy them. I think anyone would find them entertaining.

What kind of a reaction have you had from other members of the 'club'?

The Western husbands obviously find that the book is extremely accurate. They're my secondary source of inspiration (Jenny being the first, of course). Some have jokingly accused me of stalking them or installing hidden cameras in their homes. The women are my biggest fans by far — they seem to really enjoy seeing themselves captured on paper.

Sadly, I have not been able to balance the book with the wives' perspectives of the husbands.

This is because, first of all, there isn't really any commonality among us Westerners (women, please correct me if I'm wrong!), and secondly because the Vietnamese did not understand the cartoons at all.

You are now working on a second book — is it becoming more difficult to come up with material?

I wish! The ideas never stop.

Sometimes I panic when I can't find some paper to take notes.

The second book is more of a risk. A two- or three- panel cartoon is simple enough for anyone to understand, but to up the game I'm going to tell whole stories using as many panels as I need. This will be like a collection of Sunday comics that take over the entire page. It will also be faintly autobiographical, with three stages of our lives: Part I is where we meet, Part II is our life together in Vietnam and Part III will be the present in New York. I'm also using a combination of Vietnamese and English, so people who speak one of either language will get the gist, better if they have a partner who can translate.

I'm quite excited — the cover and several pages are already finished and it's going to be beautiful. The first book is on Amazon and Kindle, but I want to try and publish the second book in Vietnam for my larger Vietnamese base.

You can read David Perry’s blog at Vwwhc.blogspot.com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 13

AMANDA REID

FIONA NGUYEN

BIS ART EXHIBITION

Visual Art students at the British International School have recently completed their portfolio of work for the IB Diploma course. The work explores themes that have been developed independently by each student and range in medium from oil painting to photography. The full collection will be exhibited 3 June from 8pm at Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, D4.

14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

SYON YOON

THANH NGAN LE

TRANG NGUYEN AsiaLIFE HCMC 15

THAO TRAN

JANNIE NGUYEN

JEE YOUN SOHN MINH CHAU NGUYEN

MINH DANG 16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

QUYNH DANG

HANNAH HSU

TINH VAN TRUONG

NGOC TRUONG

SCARLET LE AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

When time is up for expatriates in Vietnam, they usually leave with mixed emotions and life-long memories.

"There’s a trick to the ‘graceful exit’. It begins with the vision to recognise when a job, a life stage or a relationship is over and let it go. It means leaving what’s over without denying its validity or its past importance to our lives. It involves a sense of future, a belief that every exit line is an entry, that we are moving up, rather than out."

Pulitzer Prize winning American columnist Ellen Goodman

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Photo by Vinh Dao

AsiaLIFE HCMC 19

Michael Kleibscheidel and his wife Vi Phan are heading back to the States to start a family. Photo by Vinh Dao.

L

eaving somewhere, or someone, is never an easy thing to do. It also does not necessarily get any easier the more frequently you do it. The very nature of an expatriate community means that the people within that group are more familiar with packing up their lives and saying goodbye to friends, family and the countries they are leaving behind.

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

There are many wonderful aspects to living in Vietnam, from the people to the food and the pretty reasonable cost of living.

However, most expats will move on from here at some stage, and each will have their own reasons for taking the decision and will carry with them a host of thoughts and emotions surrounding that choice.

Making the move One person who knows a thing or two about the process of leav-

ing is the country manager for relocation outfit Crown, Jamie Rossall. He oversees hundreds of moves, mostly out of Vietnam, each year.

He says the business has its cycles, with May, June and July being the peak times. This is closely related to families with children timing their moves to the end and beginning of the school year. There is also a slight jump in December and January for those trying to catch the start of the southern hemisphere school year.

Some of the main reasons

"

If we made a pros and cons list, the reasons to stay would be a lot longer than the reasons to go home. But family is more important.

people relocate, from Rossall's experience, are a job transfer or promotion, the cost of raising children (particularly for education), divorce or death, and those that simply feel it is time to go or they never really settled in the country.

The process of moving can also take quite an emotional toll.

"It is quite a stressful process, particularly if there are children involved," Rossall says. "Closing up the house and getting set up at the other end."

The key in his work, he says, is to understand the reasons why people are leaving so his organisation can offer the services people need. This can include packing and transporting belongings, finding accommodation, schools and even intercultural training.

"It's really important to empathise, and sometimes you can feel part counsellor. You have to take people by the hand and lead them through it," he says.

Contemplating kids The cost of an education in an international school can be staggering, with some of the toptier institutions' fees reaching $25,000 a year for the final years of high school. Even at the other

"

- Michael Kleibscheidel

end of the scale, international kindergartens and pre-schools are out of reach for many.

Australian woman Allyson Keane left with her young daughter Baillee in 2011, after more than eight years in the country. She says education played a major role in her decision.

"Oh it was definitely one of the main deciding factors. I wish there had been a more affordable option available," Keane says. "But I had ambitions to study again too, so when we got back to Brisbane, Baillee did six months at an Aussie kindergarten before starting primary school, and I went back to full-time study to do a second Master's degree."

English teachers Vi Phan and Michael Kleibscheidel have been in Saigon for four years, but are preparing to head back to the United States to begin a family.

They have discussed having a child in Vietnam, but for Phan having the support of her parents is important to her.

"Having someone that you trust and loves you and knows what to do is such a huge help and so reassuring," she says.

While excitedly preparing for their new life, they are still leaving Vietnam with mixed emotions. "It’s really bittersweet," says Phan. "I’m glad to go home

and start a family but saying goodbye to our life here is going to be difficult because life here is like a playground.

"We’ve gained a lot of friends and lost a lot of friends. It’s a hard life with that here. You get really attached to people and you always have to say goodbye," she says.

Kleibscheidel also admits to giving a lot of thought to the choice they are making. "If we made a pros and cons list, the reasons to stay would be a lot longer than the reasons to go home. But family is more important,” he says.

In through the out door Irish expat Chris Connaughton landed in Ho Chi Minh City in November 2010, and was joined a few months later by his American girlfriend, Aimee Enders.

Both well-qualified teachers, they set about finding work and soon settled into the rhythms of Saigon, made friends and explored the city.

However, as their first year in Saigon drew to a close, Enders and Connaughton had made a few decisions about the future and settled on South America as their next destination.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 21

Chris Connaughton and Aimee Enders are leaving after their second stint in Vietnam. Photo by Brett Davis.

22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

"

I loved my time in Vietnam, but after I’d been there for awhile one of the major things was I felt disconnected with home. I was missing out on things like weddings and important family events. I wanted to be closer to those things and it was hard being so far away.

"

- aNDREA BERG “The last few months we were very, very bittersweet about Vietnam, thinking 'Oh, I'm going to miss that, I'm going to miss that'," Connaughton says.

Their original departure date was in December 2011, which then became April the following year.

By July, they'd finally gathered everything together and set off for a new adventure in Argentina.

But while Buenos Aires turned out to be a beautiful city, working conditions in the new country left a lot to be desired. “We knew that the standard of living was going to be drastically different,” says Connaughton. “But we'd both lived that way before so felt we'd be used to it.”

The long hours, however, and tedious trips back and forth across town to meet different clients at different locations soon took a toll on the pair's enthusiasm for South America. “We were out of the house a good 10 to 12 hours a day and only managing to teach three or four,” Enders says.

In the end, it took about a month for the pair to realise that a full year in Buenos Aires was not going to happen. “[We] called back our jobs in Saigon and asked if we could come home,” Enders says. “Even my visa was still valid, so it was just the easiest choice.”

Upon their return to Vietnam in November 2012, setting up again was a breeze. Their work

permits were still valid and jobs were waiting as were a few close friends who were quick to say 'I told you so'.

However, as much as they have enjoyed their second stint in Vietnam, the pair now plans to head to Barcelona this month where Enders will begin a Masters program in Linguistics. “We're happy to be back,” she says. “But at the same time it's like we've already mentally transitioned.”

Much like their last goodbye, the same nostalgia is there. Both have appreciated the perspective this country has given them but are ready to move on to new adventures.

“It's bittersweet knowing that we're leaving,” Enders says.

“Going back to school is going to be a big challenge.” Though being a student means the next few years are spoken for, neither she nor Connaughton know what the future will hold after Barcelona. One thing, however, is for certain: “We're not allowed to say we're not coming back,” Enders says.

Your time is up Sometimes the clock just runs out for people. Andrea Berg came to Vietnam from the USA via a teaching stint in Korea.

Though she lingered six months beyond her original plans for a year-long stay, she knew it would

not be forever.

"I loved my time in Vietnam, but after I’d been there for awhile one of the major things was I felt disconnected with home," she says. "I was missing out on things like weddings and important family events. I wanted to be closer to those things and it was hard being so far away.

"Then I also just kind of felt that sometimes, especially the expat lifestyle, it’s a little like neverland-esque and I felt like I wasn’t really laying down serious long-term roots. Friends would leave and I felt like I was never making a permanent life there.

I felt like more of a permanent lifestyle where it wasn’t always changing."

Now living in San Francisco, she says she does miss friends, the food and certainly the cost of living in Vietnam. "I would 100 percent come back for vacation but I don’t think I would ever live in Vietnam again. I don’t think for me it was the right lifestyle," Berg says.

'Life is a-moving on', Arthur Miller wrote in his play Death of a Salesman. How we handle that move, be it graceful or otherwise, is up to each individual.

What can safely be said, though, is that each person heading for the exit door out of Vietnam will always have a special connection to, and indelible memories of, this place.

Brett Davis

AsiaLIFE HCMC 23

EN GUARDE A local fencing class boosts physical endurance, respect and coordination.

By Ruben Luong. Photos by Vinh Dao.

W

ould you challenge Parisian fencing master Franck Rouband to a duel? Feel free to do so at his 130-square metre studio home in An Phu, where his La Salle d’Armes de Saigon class meets on Monday evenings for Olympic and traditional fencing.

Rouband, 52, has practiced fencing for more than 40 years and is also an instructor at Saigon’s British and Australian international schools. He is trained in all three weapon variations of fencing: foil, épée and sabre.

During an Olympic class last month in An Phu, students concentrated on foil, a light thrusting weapon with a small circular hand guard that targets the torso, neck and groin; and épée, a heavier thrusting weapon with a guard that covers the hand and targets the entire body. Fencers interchange the right of way in foil fencing, but can attack simultaneously in épée to land touches.

Ten minutes into a warm-up of steady lungeing and parrying with Rouband, French restaurateur and fencing student Noelle Carr-Ellison breaks a sweat under her mask.

“If you could see my face under my mask, you would be

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

laughing your head off,” she says. “My teeth are clenching so hard.”

Fencing appears low-key and gentle to a spectator, but it boosts leg strength and promotes deep ab and cardio training, according to Rouband.

Most competitive sports build up adrenaline, whereas fencing is unpredictable and oscillates between a steady and stressful dynamic.

“A French master once said it is like playing chess and running a 100-metre race at the same time,” Rouband says. “You have to move very fast. You need to have good footwork and at the same time adapt to your strategy. You have to respect your opponent’s strategy, have the capacity to change your strategy and adapt to your opponent.”

Before anything, however, Rouband’s discipline begins with developing the right attitude. “Everybody, I try to teach them to be a good citizen,” he says. “That means to respect your opponent and to encourage fair play all the time.”

Fencing is a dignified art which was popular among aristocratic men. Although fencing today is a competitive sport, Rouband says fencing is one of

a padded bib for protection, is not only heavy, but hot and with limited ventilation. It’s hard to even see through the mask’s black netting.

Fencing students wear a white croissard (form-fitting jacket) which goes between the legs, while masters wear black.

A single glove is worn on the hand that carries the weapon.

But those items also become sweaty the longer you duel and parry, and it’s harder to keep focus.

“The biggest mistake is coordination,” Rouband says. “It’s the first mistake of all beginners, that is sure, but it is also the mistake that can happen all the time,” he says. “Fencing is not natural. You have to turn your hand upward, always be in profile, walk in profile.

You have to learn the body language.”

Proper fencers should extend their arms first and legs after, with the front foot as close to the ground as possible at all times to stabilise movements.

Reversing this order increases the chance of missing the target.

Being tall and slim is an advantage to avoiding targets.

Long arms and legs help fencers reach their target easier

with every lunge and thrust, while staying slim minimises the profile and makes it harder for the opponent to make a valid touch.

Rouband stands at 174 centimetres, which he says is average for a French man. He often wins because he adapts, such as dodging under taller opponents. He recounts one championship he saw two years ago in which a short Italian beat a two-metre tall world champion from Cuba. “Being tall and slim will not make you be the best fencer,” he says.

Regardless of body type, fencing is also appropriate for all ages. Rouband says it teaches children and teenagers self-discipline and self-control, while it sharpens the physical and mental faculties of adult and elderly students.

“I’m dyslexic, but in fencing, I don’t have any problem,” he says. “And in France, I was close to a big car accident, but I developed very good reflexes from fencing. It saved my life.”

"

TO TOUCH THE OPPONENT IS NOT JUST THE ONLY GOAL. IT’S ALWAYS THE ACTION THAT COMES BEFORE, IF THERE’S A BEAUTIFUL ACTION OR GESTURE.

"

the last, if not the only, remaining martial arts from Europe.

It originated in Spain (think Zorro), but was improved under French and Italian fencing schools of the Renaissance.

By mid-19th century, fencing competitions began using electronic tips that signal lights with each touch of the weapon’s tip. Fencers make valid touches from a series of offensive or defensive moves, like in a video game that relies on adapting specific combos for special attacks.

“To touch the opponent is not just the only goal,” Rouband adds. “It’s always the action that comes before, if there’s a beautiful action or gesture.”

For example, opponents might thrust (extend the front leg with a slight kicking motion and propel the body forward with the back leg) or disengage (fake an attack but semi-circle the tip to throw off the opponent). To defend, they might counter-attack or circle parry (block or deflect the blade in a twisted, circular motion).

Executing these movements reads as simple, but thrown into the formality of duel, it’s considerably difficult. The fencing mask, constructed with

Rouband’s fencing classes are VND 300,000 for one hour. Private lessons can also be arranged.

Call 09 09 07 15 73 or contact lasalledarmes@gmail.com for more information.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 25

Behind closed doors, Saigon's 'intimate lifestyle product' businesses turns a generous profit. However, in such a conservative culture there seems a long way to go before Vietnam becomes comfortable with such a taboo subject. By Dana Filek-Gibson.

S

tanding in the customs line at Tan Son Nhat, Clare waited as her bag went through the X-ray scanner once, and then again. On the other side of the humming machine, customs officials studied a monitor. The suitcase inched along, back and forth, until finally it slid down the conveyor belt. Within moments, a uniformed guard was at her side. He requested that Clare open the bag for inspection and she complied. After all, there was nothing to hide: beyond shorts and t-shirts, underwear and a couple basic necessities, there were few things inside that would set off alarm bells, though Clare did have an inkling as to what had so concerned the local customs agents.

And so, before a group of patient onlookers, authorities unzipped her bag, reached inside and pulled out the generous dildo that had popped

26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

up on the X-ray scan. At first, Clare blushed, offering explanations for the item; that it was meant to be a joke for the expat friend she was visiting.

But the guard was not amused.

In a moment that went from awkward to embarrassing to tense, authorities confiscated the object and Clare received a fine of a few million dong for bringing contraband into the country. Escorted by a customs official, she wandered the airport grounds, attempting to withdraw money from several ATMs, but to no avail. In the end, she was reprimanded and grudgingly released. Clare left the airport shaken, her luggage in tow, no longer in possession of the fake phallus but now acutely aware of the fact that Vietnamese law prohibits dildos, even as a prank.

Yet, despite this strict disallowance of sex toys, Saigon residents require little more than a cursory Google search

in order to track down that same contraband. Vietnamese law may ban the sale and possession of sex toys, but behind closed doors business is booming. According to a news report published by Tuoi Tre late last year, 'condom shops,' as they're advertised, can turn a profit with only a few customers. Though legal wares, such as condoms and lubricant, are also available, shop owners claimed that these businesses would go under if it weren't for the income provided by their smuggled goods, which come from as near as China and as far away as Europe and North America. Depending upon the origins and quality of the item, vendors can rake in upwards of several million dong on a single sale.

Outside of these shops, of course, sex toys remain a topic too taboo for polite conversation. Even among today's urbanites, the mere mention

of sex is likely to elicit at least a few red faces and nervous laughter. Around downtown District 1, you'll find trace evidence of safe-sex campaigns. For instance, there are large blue-and-white posters plastered on street corners that depict a loving couple standing inside a giant condom.

However, few Vietnamese are willing to discuss sex in any detail, sometimes even with their partners or spouses.

As such, sex toys have earned a reputation as perverse, unhealthy objects. In a culture reluctant to acknowledge this aspect of a person's private life, even those purchasing the contraband are often too embarrassed or shy to speak up, and so the illicit trade carries on, concealed from the public eye out of shame.

Clearly, though, someone is buying. When VietNamNet interviewed sex shop owners in Hanoi late last year, the general consensus was that women, especially middle-aged women, made up most of their clientele, followed by couples and young men. According to their clientele, these illicit items – mostly dildos and vibrators – offer a safe, monogamous solution for dissatisfied spouses or those with faraway husbands.

“My husband works abroad and only returns to Vietnam once a year,” said NT, a sex shop customer. “Sometimes I also need to have sex. A close friend suggested that I get a sex toy. This way, I stay faithful without having to give it up altogether.”

That said, NT's husband had no idea that she even owned a sex toy. Like most, she purchased her items online and had them delivered to her door. While a handful of physical shops exist, this is how most sex toy businesses operate, allowing them to skip the overhead involved in opening a shop and go straight to making profits.

“There are months when

we receive as many as 70 or 80 orders; there are other months when we barely receive any,” VT, a shop owner, told VietNamNet. “However, because we don't have to pay for employees or a business location, we're able to stay afloat.”

The prohibition of sex toys certainly helps business owners in the long run, provided they are able to keep their dealings under the radar. When it comes to customers, however, there is often little to no information available regarding the origin

trade may be too much too soon. Opponents of Quang's view raise concerns that these products may have damaging effects on marital relationships, decrease individual self-esteem and possibly even lead to sex addiction.

On the other side of the argument, Nguyen Thi Kha, a member of the National Assembly's Committee on Social Issues, countered with the fact that little tangible evidence exists regarding how many consumers actually purchase

Clare left the airport shaken, her luggage in tow, no longer in possession of the fake phallus but now acutely aware of the fact that Vietnamese law prohibits dildos, even as a prank. of these products, not to mention instructions for proper use and care.

Because of this, Nguyen Huy Quang, director of legal affairs at the Ministry of Health, recently suggested in an interview with Vietnamese newspaper Doi Song & Phap Luat that the sale of sex toys be regulated. With most shoppers too embarrassed and sex still very much a taboo topic, Quang argued that acknowledging the lucrative sex toy market would help create safer conditions and increase awareness among consumers, which could ultimately benefit society.

“In order to have strict management and prohibit the problems associated with sex toys, we must allow these businesses to trade,” said Quang.

“When people have sexual needs but are not in a relationship or married, [sex toys] ensure that these individuals don't visit prostitutes and that their sexual needs are satisfied in a safe way.”

While there is a vocal minority that agrees with Quang's opinion, legalizing the sex toy

sex toys. If, she suggested, the number is small, then perhaps Vietnam was not yet ready for such a move.

“From a societal perspective, many people believe sex toys are a sick game,” said Kha. “In my opinion, the Ministry of Health should carefully consider whether this is the legitimate demand of many or few. If this is simply the desire of a small portion of society then we shouldn't yet open the market to regulation because to do so would contradict the previous ban on sex toys.”

Whether legalisation is on the horizon or not, the controversy has at least managed to get people talking. Though the number of sex toy users in Vietnam remains unclear, what is apparent is that consumers' shame may, in fact, be the most harmful aspect of the business.

In the meantime, changing attitudes will go a long way to erasing the stigma that surrounds the use of sex toys, though government officials may need the aid of public opinion before they come around to the idea.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 27

Ruben Luong befriends snakes and lizards at Saigon’s first reptile café. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke and Sarah Joanne Smith.

28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

W

hile Godzilla wreaks havoc in theatres across the world, some friendlier lizards are making peace in Phu Nhuan’s Café Babo, the first reptile café in Saigon.

Pet cafés are a popular Asian concept, and Saigon already has a few. There’s Ailucat Café on Nguyen Trong Tuyen Street, where fans of felines can chill with 20 cats reclining on tables and bookshelves. In Phu My Hung, Stardog Café offers dog lovers playtime with a pack of beautiful huskies.

Café Babo’s casual den of more than 10 scaly, coldblooded residents is a far cry from existing establishments filled with furry friends. A young reptile enthusiast, Tuan, opened the café last month and word of it spread online at Zing MP3 News and VietNamNet. The café’s reptiles are small and docile creatures that are tamed usually within six to eight months. Most have their own UVA- or UVB-lit cage placed in a raised and open-air living area. Patrons remove their shoes and sit on the ground to drink fruit smoothies or coffee (VND 15,000-30,000) while handling each reptile.

“It is interesting to look at and play with the reptiles that I could only see on TV or the internet right here,” one customer told VietNamNet last month.

Some reptiles from the café are pets from members of Saigon’s local animal and

reptile lovers club, so they are accustomed to strangers. Stars of the café are a roughly onemetre long milk snake, a baby salamander and a green iguana from South America. It’s a veritable dinosaur when it’s on its large branch perch installed in the café.

But the Savannah Monitor, or South African dragon, holds the crown. It weighs about three kilograms and at one point donned a Western vest with studded spikes. It can cost around VND 3-10 million, as opposed to VND 500,000 for other reptilian species in the café.

Reptiles like the dragon are natural models with intricate, photogenic scales and long, lanky poses, so customers are more than inclined to take snaps while sipping their coffee or smoothies. Stunning pythons can also be arranged to wrap around coffee glasses on the low wooden tables for cool photos.

Picture opportunities are fun, but interacting with the reptiles gives locals a chance to study their characteristics and behaviour. Another reptile enthusiast, Huy, showed a unique lizard trick while hanging out at the café on a Friday afternoon.

“Pressing here puts the lizard to sleep,” he says in Vietnamese, gently touching an area around the lizard’s neck and torso. He presses the same spots again and the lizard jolts awake.

Huy demonstrates that a lizard has muscles in its throat and belly that contract and expand its lungs to keep the flow of oxygen steady. By poking at its throat and belly, the muscles don’t function properly and temporarily shut off without hurting the lizard to conserve oxygen.

It’s easy to spend a whole afternoon at the café playing with and observing the reptiles, but there are plenty of patrons who come a little scared. One boy kept trying to scare his friend by poking him in the back when he wasn’t looking.

A couple of girls immediately squirmed when a green lizard strutted towards them.

Yet Café Babo is slowly changing the general perception of reptiles here, introducing them to a young and curious crowd in the safe context of a coffee shop, where they would ordinarily hang out with their friends.

It’s a trending concept, reptiles as coffee companions.

They also reside at the Pet Café in Hanoi’s Ba Dinh district, which opened in April and was featured in VietNamNet, Tuoi Tre and New York Daily News.

Pet Café’s owner, Nguyen Minh Nghia, has a collection of more than 40 snakes, rats, lizards, tarantulas and hedgehogs from his travels throughout Singapore, China and Thailand.

Visiting these pet cafés, however, patrons should regard sanitation as a top priority.

On its website, The Center for Disease Control and Prevention notes that reptile pets can carry salmonella germs on their skin. “It’s crucial that customers wash their hands immediately after touching animals, or anything in the area where they live and roam,” the CDC states.

Rest assured, the reptiles at the cafés are generally harmless, and the owners take care to breed, feed (crickets, lettuce, mice, reptile feed) and bathe them properly. Like humans, reptiles are also just as sensitive to certain light, temperature and humidity. But for whatever lifestyle differences there are, for now they’ll continue to get a taste of the common coffee culture.

Café Babo Apartment 9, Building A3 Hoa Phuong Street Phu Nhuan District AsiaLIFE HCMC 29

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC 30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

I

n pictures, motorists sit astride their Honda Cubs, hair trailing behind them in the breeze. Colourful advertisements and hand-painted propaganda line the streets.

Up above, the sky is far easier to pick out amid an absence of financial towers and high-rise buildings. And yet, for all its differences, the Saigon of 1994 is still familiar. Le Loi remains a wide, shaded avenue, and the many rooftops of Cho Lon rest upon its enormous frame in much the same way as they did before. Though the flashy motorbikes, neon lights and modern advertising of today haven't yet appeared on the scene, Saigon's recognisable framework prevails.

Two decades on, the southern hub, and indeed, much of Vietnam, has transformed in ways few could have imagined. Today, Saigon is full of juxtapositions: Bentleys share the road with bicycles, xe oms perch on the same block as Chanel and the plastic furniture of Saigon's street vendors stands in stark contrast to ultra chic downtown eateries. Clearly, this is a country that has come into some money. When, in the mid90s, the World Bank estimated Vietnam's national poverty rate, it put roughly 60 percent of the population at or below the poverty line. As of 2012, that same figure had shrunk to around 17 percent. Though the country's newfound wealth is far from perfect, Vietnam's dramatic rise from one of the world's poorest nations to a low-middle income country is nothing short of remarkable.

More impressive still has been the country's rapid introduction to the digital age. According to TNS Vietnam, a Saigon-based custom research company, as recently as 2006 smartphones had yet to arrive in the country. Nowadays, 31 percent of Vietnamese own a 'smart' mobile device, and roughly two-thirds of its citizens are online. Beyond these changes in wealth and access, Vietnam's younger generations are also blessed with

greater opportunity than their parents had. College and university graduates make up over half of the country's affluent citizens, affording young Vietnamese further opportunities to improve their social standing.

“I think probably [Vietnam's] single largest achievement is pretty well the eradication of poverty,” says Ralf Matthaes, regional managing director at TNS. But if the average Vietnamese citizen has managed to pull their family out of poverty over the last 20 years, a select few have really outdone themselves.

Ultra-high net worth individuals (UHNWIs), or those whose net worth is valued at $30 million or more, represent the very upper echelons of Vietnamese society. By the estimates of Knight Frank, a global real estate consultancy, the country is currently home to 110 UHNWIs, 90 of whom live in Saigon. Knight Frank, which publishes an annual report analysing the wealth and spending habits of UHNWIs across the globe, believes that by 2023 Saigon's number of ultrawealthy will have risen to 246, making this the fastest-growing UHNWI population worldwide.

Whether or not Saigon is to produce future millionaires, for the time being the current ones are happy to stand out with flashy status symbols. Near Dong Khoi, long a bastion of upper-class delights, designer brands like Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Chanel and Burberry occupy the posh storefronts just west of the Opera House. Luxury cars navigate Saigon's busy streets, from Mercedes-Benz to BMWs. Though Audi got off to a slow start when it first arrived in Saigon in 2008, the company fared well enough to open a second location the following year in Hanoi. In 2013, as Vietnam recorded its lowest GDP growth in 13 years, sales at the company grew 83 percent from the previous year, far exceeding Audi's expectations.

“Our sales in 2013 developed 10 times higher than Audi [shareholders]’s initial expec-

Though the country's newfound wealth is far from perfect, Vietnam's dramatic rise from one of the world's poorest nations to a low-middle income country is nothing short of remarkable.

tations,” says Laurent Genet, general director of Audi Vietnam.

According to Genet, UHNWI customers are more likely to be interested in the company's topof-the-line vehicles and, provided things turn out well, will come back for more. “Most enthusiastic Audi customers buy cars for them first and, if they are happy, for their family members,” he explains.

But while Audi's booming sales and the projections of the Knight Frank report paint a picture of continued prosperity, this wealth is top-heavy. Recent years have brought an economic slowdown to the country, where Vietnam's annual GDP growth remains on par with most developing nations around the world but below many of its Southeast Asian neighbours. The rich are still able to get richer here, however an ever-increasing gap has begun to separate the nation's highest and lowest earners. Vietnam's lower and middle classes, after a period of economic gain, are beginning to reach the limit of their opportunity. Though many remain optimistic that the economy will rebound over the next few years, this sentiment is tempered with caution.

“To be fair, I think the economic plight is not going to be a rocketship in terms of recovery,” says TNS's Matthaes, who puts Vietnam's recovery one or two years in the future.

World Bank forecasts also suggest that things will look up again, though it could be a few years before Vietnam's lowerand middle-class citizens find themselves enjoying the same economic growth they experienced in the first decade of the 21st century.

Meanwhile, across the city conflicting images of modern-day Saigon persist, with street vendors shuffling by Vincom's sleek shopping malls carrying bamboo poles on their shoulders. If the past is even a fraction of an indication toward the future, Vietnam will move into the next decade just fine, though it remains to be seen whether some will come out better than others.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 31 AsiaLIFE HCMC 31

History Seekers As urban sprawl transforms Vietnam’s rural landscapes, the traditional village structure is getting harder to find. In search of history, Katie Jacobs takes a step back in time to explore the ancient village of Duong Lam.

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Early one drizzly Saturday morning, a group of friends and I travelled an hour and a half west of Hanoi to the ancient village of Duong Lam. With a history stretching back over 1,000 years, Duong Lam, once known as Ke Mia, or Land of Sugarcane, is a rare and classic example of a traditional midland northern Vietnamese village.

As we drove, Hanoi’s sprawling western suburbs bled into a succession of high-rises, roadside eateries and small shops. No longer a chain of small villages, the road was lined with colourful signs hawking pho bo and bear bile. After an hour, modern development finally gave way to the impossibly green rice paddies, filled with bobbing conical hats and elevated graves.

Arriving at the large sign marking Duong Lam, we veered off the main road and pulled in amongst a few tour buses neatly lined up in the paved car park.

Although not on the itinerary for most foreign tourists, the decision by local residents to preserve the historic nature of the village has turned this small, sleepy town into a popular attraction for many domestic visitors.

Collecting our tickets, we were greeted by an ancient banyan tree. Its tall branches shaded the large village gate. As the official entrance to the village, these heavy wooden doors have traditionally played an important role in monitoring, and in

some cases, preventing, visitors.

Even kings were expected to stop at the gate in order to pay their respects and be granted permission to enter.

Historic Architecture

A winding path leads to the centre of town, lined at first by ponds and fields, and then by walled compounds; their walls are punctured by small roofed gates welcoming those interested in seeing the homes and gardens inside.

According to archaeologists, the Viet people have been living in the region for 20,000 years.

As permanent villages settled around Duong Lam, local architecture developed to reflect the climate and landscape. Built out of laterite stone, mud bricks and ironwood columns, construction materials were locally sourced and chosen for their durability, insulation and ease of use. Small details, such as pitched roofs, shaded windows and ventilation holes, indicate design that has embraced and adapted to the environment, a stark contrast to the tall cement buildings down the road. Although the village was founded over a millennium ago, the earliest house is 400 years old. In keeping with Vietnamese custom, many of the buildings have been updated, rebuilt and restored by recycling materials from the house that stood before.

Traditional Culture

After tea and sweets on the veranda of a recently-renovated

house, we continued along the main road, winding past shady compounds, small temples and a French-era Catholic church. We soon arrived at the large town square, flanked by historic buildings and the communal house.

Known as a dinh in Vietnamese, this long, majestic building, constructed in 1759, looks over a spacious courtyard, the customary location for local and national celebrations.

Moreover, women of Duong Lam have long been allowed to participate in the communal activities at the dinh and are honoured for their role in community life. Traditionally, women of this area play a large role both inside and outside of the household, working not only on family-related tasks, but also on many agricultural and craft activities normally reserved for men.

Village Life

Stretching out from the town square is a labyrinth of narrow alleyways filled with family houses, workshops and small temples dedicated to local families, gods and heroes. Hours could be spent exploring the complicated maze and intricate detail. Two kings, Phung Hung (761-802) and Ngo Quyen (896944), were born in this village.

There are temples dedicated to their heroic battles against invaders of the country. Old women with mouths stained black and lacquer chipping from their teeth sell sweets wrapped

in banana leaves. Cows wander through the town, their large bulk filling the narrow streets.

Low doors at seemingly deadend alleys lead into garden-filled compounds, where residents raise chickens and brew rice wine in large clay pots.

Finishing a traditional lunch of morning glory, tofu and rice in a small family-run restaurant, the grey sky opened abruptly to rain. With a quick escape to the bus, we left history behind and made our way home to Hanoi.

Whether it is for one hour or one day, Duong Lam is a pleasant and fascinating escape into the past and culture of the northern Vietnamese countryside.

If You Go

Bicycles: On clear days, push bikes can be hired to explore the surrounding villages and fields.

Visitors can cycle through rice paddies and visit temples dedicated to local gods and heroes.

Drinking Tea: Many of the local houses welcome visitors into their home and it is customary to share tea and sweets with the family. Guests usually leave a small contribution towards the high cost of building and maintaining the traditional houses.

Duong Lam is located near Son Tay, approximately 60 kilometres west of Hanoi. The village can be visited independently or through a tour agency in Hanoi. If you go without a guide, it is worth buying the Duong Lam guidebook by The Gioi publishďż˝ ers.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 33

eAT F

ood, food, food, and lots of it. That was the plan for the expedition to Taipei on last month’s public holiday long-weekend.

So, what was the reason for such pre-meditated gluttony?

The reasons were two-fold: the first being I had read and seen so much about the city’s fabulous array of food, and the second was because I just could.

I had worked pretty hard over the past year or so to get in shape. I joined the gym, watched what I ate (to an extent) and tried to drink (a little) more moderately. The time felt right, then, for a guilt-free gastronomic adventure.

Culinary melting pot

The majority of Taiwan's population is ethnically Han Chinese. Not surprisingly, there is a strong mainland Chinese influence in the local cuisine, particularly from the provinces of Fujian, Guangdong, Hunan, Sichuan, Jiangxi, Shanghai and Beijing.

The island nation’s 50-year colonial rule by Japan has also seen traditional Japanese techniques and ingredients such as tempura and raw fish adopted into the Taiwanese food lexicon.

The original indigenous tribes of Taiwan only make up about two percent of the population, however their traditional way of eating, based around roasted game, wild-harvested greens 34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

STREET

Taiwan is famous for its food culture, and Brett Davis recently loosened the belt for a three-day feast in one of Taipei's most famous food precincts.

and root vegetables like taro and sweet potato are gradually spreading beyond these communities and into the mainstream.

Taipei is a modern, international city of almost seven million people, so pretty much every cuisine in the world is represented to some degree. It is difficult to think of a place to indulge in some serious food exploration.

Food street

There is great food in every corner of Taipei, from the plethora of night markets serving up all manner of street snacks, or xiaochi, to the Michelin-starred Din Tai Fung which specializes in soup dumplings (xiaolongbao).

However, if you are a fairly lazy foodie like myself, then you won't get past the city’s premier restaurant strip, Yong Kang Street, which sits in central Taipei adjacent to the Dongmen subway station. The bustling neighbourhood centred around this street is full of restaurants and food stalls, as well as quirky boutiques, galleries, coffee shops and antique stores.

There is not a huge concession to the English language here, although most people speak some English and will produce an Anglo version of the menu when a Westerner appears. Arriving in town mid-evening and overdue for dinner, we took a chance on a

cosy-looking little place whose name was in Chinese characters (at 12/5 Yong Kang Street), and ordered via the colour photos of dishes on the wall.

It turned out to be perfect fare for a slightly chilly night.

There was super tender steamed pork and ginger in a rich spicy sauce, beef with bamboo and bean sprouts in a delicate broth accompanied by steamed greens and cups of lemon tea.

The next morning a light drizzle was falling and the rain would hang around all day. In the tangle of laneways behind Dongmen Station we found a noodle stand in front of a small but packed dining room. The bowls of silky Hokkien noodles, pork soup and a dish of obiko (Taiwanese black pudding) and taro in a thick broth were just the kind of start the day called for.

On the next street parallel to Yong Kang, Lishui Street, was probably one of our favourite joints, Café 58. The owner hails from the Japanese island of Okinawa, and he serves up a variety of dishes from his homeland. There was bitter melon (of course) stuffed with BBQ pork and kalian with mushrooms and bacon. We rounded out both with large mugs of Okinawan beer. Each evening, the owner also does a few numbers on a shamisen, a type of three-stringed traditional banjo, backed by the chef who plays a

conventional guitar.

One spot on Yong Kang that is hard to miss, both because of the crowds and the fact it is painted bright yellow, is The Smoothie House. It seemed like locals and tourists alike could not get enough of the famous desserts, which consisted of fruit topped with shaved ice and a scoop of sorbet or ice cream. It is total brain-freeze territory but well worth it.

Last supper

After several days of this sort of carry-on, the need for some kind of exercise was called for.

Three blocks east of Yong Kang is the green expanse of Daan Park. Families were out in force enjoying the mild day as we strolled to our final destination on Jianguo South Road, which borders the park.

Not really local in any sense of the word, the establishment called simply Beer and Cheese had been recommended to us by a friend. This place has more than 50 craft beers from around the world, and a menu of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches and other cheesy treats.

We tried the pesto and cheddar sandwich and also one of the skillets, a cast-iron pan containing roast potatoes topped with various melted cheeses, salsa, guacamole and sour cream. It was devastatingly good.

Looks like it’s back to the gym for another year.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 35

Propaganda Located facing the park across Han Thuyen Street in District 1 and right next door to Au Parc, Propaganda Vietnamese Bistro is well situated for the lunch-hour crowd, expats and tourists alike.

The bright and colourful interior takes its cue from the famous propaganda art posters and the framed prints and huge mural painted on the wall give a great sense of place.

Both Propaganda and Au Parc are under the stewardship of young French manager Cindy Kawak whose enthusiasm for the new venture is obvious.

"This is not fusion food," she says of Propaganda's menu. "We are taking traditional Vietnam36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

This colourful Vietnamese bistro is taking local cuisine to another level. Review and photos by Brett Davis.

ese dishes and ingredients you find here, and giving it a lift."

This is achieved by focusing on fresh, quality ingredients, making dishes like the fresh spring rolls to order and producing other items in-house.

The fresh spring rolls are the most popular item on the menu and the seven combinations listed are set to be expanded.

Combinations include tofu, rice noodles, greens and soy sauce (VND 60,000) and duck in betel leaf and spicy ginger with fish sauce (VND 90,000).

We tried the omelette, avocado, brown rice and soy sauce rolls (VND 70,000) which were light but full of flavour. There

are a generous 10 pieces to each serve and the rolls come sliced and presented in a similar fashion to sushi rolls.

There is a good range of veggies and salads, and the Propaganda brown rice salad (VND 70,000) with palm hearts, roasted tomatoes, pumpkin seeds and corn is probably the standout. The finely chopped mint tossed throughout the salad really gives it a lift.

Most people have tried bun thit nuong (VND 85,000) at some stage, but here it really is something extraordinary. All the recognisable elements are there, but it is the quality of the ingredients that make it so good

here.

Finally, some pan-fried home-made tofu on a green peppercorn sauce (VND 60,000) was again served up in generous portions.

Propaganda also has two wine and food discovery set menus (VND 450,000) pairing wines from their list with four courses of food. Between 5 and 8pm each day guests receive a complimentary tasting plate with every bottle of wine purchased.

21-23 Han Thuyen, D1 08 38 22 40 48 7.30am-10.30pm Propaganda.vn

Prem Fresh, alternative recipes at Prem vegetarian bistro in District 3 are exactly what Saigon denizens need to power through the day.

In the mornings, Prem’s Beet the Weak (VND 65,000), a freshly-squeezed blend of beet root, carrot, baby bok choy and ginger juice would make a resilient and nutritious protein boost.

Later during the afternoon, the chickpea burger (VND 85,000), a savoury chickpea and portobello mushroom patty stuffed in a homemade brown rice bun, would be a wholesome snack or light meal for a quick work lunch away from

Prem’s vegetarian recipes and bohemian rooms promote stronger living. By Ruben Luong. Photos by Brett Davis.

the office.

And ending the day strong, Prem’s filling zucchini noodles with capers and ripe cherry tomatoes (VND 95,000) would restore and balance a heavy or productive workout at the gym after a long day.

The fact is, it’s hard to be disappointed regardless of what you order at Prem, which translates to 'love' in Sanskrit.

Dishes ranging a mere VND 45,000-98,000 are unpretentious.

Instead, they feature spontaneous ingredient pairings to detox and refuel, building happier, energised, focused and stronger bodies.

Indeed, Prem likes to push

boundaries, so you’ll see diverse salads like glass noodle, sweet potato, water cress or even broccoli almond. There are also more than 15 main dishes such as eggplant parmigiana (VND 88,000), a fried eggplant with breadcrumbs, tomato sauce and cheese toppings that’s a favourite among regulars.

Prem’s space, like its menu, is about being welcoming and communal, exuding bohemian chic. Artisan textiles and traditional pottery punctuate sparse concrete walls and long tables on the ground floor and upper mezzanine, where there’s floor seating with cushion pillows

next to low bookshelves.

Consistent with the holistic space, free yoga and meditation classes are organised every Sunday afternoon from 4-6pm. on Prem’s rooftop terrace. Yoga classes accommodate 10 and are first come first served. Register beforehand at prembistro@ gmail.com.

Prem is isolated down a small and isolated hem suitable for calm lunches and yoga, but they now also offer delivery by phone and online.

129/4 Vo Van Tan 08 62 79 99 20 9am-10pm Prembistro.com AsiaLIFE HCMC 37

Vui Vui As far as most outsiders are concerned, Japanese cuisine is a mystery beyond sushi and soba. But while few are familiar with the country's mouthwatering barbecue, Vui Vui restaurant brings this phenomenal facet of Japanese fare to the public's attention.

Approaching its one-year anniversary, the shiny red, white and black behemoth draws a sizable lunchtime crowd to its open-plan dining room in District 3. Plush, partitioned booths occupy the ground floor and each table is outfitted with a built-in stovetop. Vui Vui, the most recent addition to Saigon's 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

District 3's sumptuous Vui Vui introduces Saigon to the world of Japanese barbecue. By Dana Filek-Gibson, Photos by Brett Davis.

Uraetei restaurant chain, may not be as upscale as its predecessors, but it holds its own with a range of self-cook barbecue and hotpot dishes.

While the menu affords diners plenty of variety, Vui Vui's signature offering is its combo meal (VND 120,000–200,000), a mix-and-match array of dishes that features sumptuous barbecue accompanied by sides like edamame, taro, gyoza or spring rolls. Choose from several different cuts, including beef tongue, short ribs and pork, which you'll barbecue at your table and enjoy alongside Japanese-style kimchi – less spicy than its Korean counter-

part – and salad. Combos also come with a soup or a hotpot of savoury Japanese steamed egg known as keran chim.

When it comes to barbecue, the harami beef (VND 170,000) is top notch. A thicker, rectangular cut, this meat comes off the grill juicy, tender and exceptionally flavourful. Add in Vui Vui's own homemade tare, a combination of soy sauce and a few other secret ingredients, and the meal is a hit.

For individual diners, Vui Vui's standout lunchset option is undoubtedly the sukiyaki set (VND 150,000). Served in a miniature clay pot, this dish combines an array of thinly-

sliced beef, mushrooms, tofu and veggies in its light, slightly sweet broth. Stir up the accompanying raw egg to use as a dipping sauce and enjoy. The heat from the already-cooked meat and vegetables creates a thin layer of egg around each morsel, bringing the flavour to the next level. The restaurant also does a larger version of the same dish (VND 580,000) for three to four diners, and prepares the meat and vegetables on the table stovetop.

125A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 08 66 608 578 11am-11pm Vuivui.net.vn

Game On Coming on the scene in the second half of last year, the sports pub Game On occupies some hotly contested territory for the expat market in the downtown area of District 1. The venue has seen steadily increasing trade over recent months and an overhaul of the menu is aiming to assist in that upward trend.

The new chef behind the burners has worked in numerous restaurants around town and on cruise ships in the region, and his refreshed menu covers everything from breakfast to bar snacks, salads, burgers, generous mains and a selection of Vietnamese fare.

Game On's doors open at

Live sports and hearty food make for an irresistible combination at this spacious downtown pub.

Review and photos by Brett Davis.

8am every day, which makes the place a good option for a bite of breakfast before heading to the office. There are savoury and sweet options, such as the eggs Benedict (VND 125,000) or the pancakes with strawberries and yoghurt (VND 95,000).

If you are hankering for something more substantial to start your day, there is the Game On Big Breakfast (VND 150,000, and it is big) which includes scrambled eggs, grilled tomato, bacon, sausage, baked beans, hash brown and toast.

For something lighter, we recommend the Game On’s Own Salad (VND 125,000), a Cobb-style salad with romaine

lettuce, grilled chicken, bacon, avocado, cherry tomatoes and a balsamic dressing.

A sports bar wouldn’t be a sports bar without good fingerfood, and there is an impressive selection on offer. The salt and pepper squid (VND 125,000) are tender and tasty, while the chicken wings (VND 125,000) are served coated in spicy marinade and accompanied by blue cheese dipping sauce.

Main dishes range in price from VND 130,000-300,000.

A consistent favourite is the bangers and mash (VND 130,000), as is the beer-battered fish and chips (VND 180,000).

However, the chef really comes

into his own with his homemade sausage roll (VND 200,000) and chicken and mushroom pie (VND 200,000). The sausage roll’s pastry is flaky and goldenbrown and the filling is spot-on.

The chicken pie is so moist and flavourful you don’t really need the accompanying gravy.

With a satellite dish delivering live sports from around the world and a menu of top-notch grub, Game On more than holds its own in this competitive neighbourhood.

115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 08 62 51 98 98 8am until late Gameonsaigon.com AsiaLIFE HCMC 39

Colour & Silk A Canadian artist and teacher who is bringing people together through a traditional style of painting talks to Brett Davis about her artistic journey.

40 AsiaLIFE HCMC

S

treet scenes, still-lifes and portraits of fellow residents in her District 5 neighbourhood are all subject matter for the watercolour paintings of Toronto-native Lindsay Erdman.

A teacher of visual arts and graphic design at The American School in District 10, she has also gathered a steady following for her twice-monthly watercolour workshops.

As well as painting in the more usual way of applying watercolours to paper, she

has adopted the Vietnamese technique of painting onto silk stretched over a frame.

"Vietnam is a good country to learn watercolours," she says.

"It is a style that is sort of half-drawn and then filled in with a wash. A very illustrative style."

Erdman initially studied documentary filmmaking at university, but later returned to her first love of painting, which she had always been active in. She has spent time apprenticed to various artists around the world to further her artistic development.

"I have a habit of finding artists I like and knocking on their door to see if I can hang out there for a couple of months," she says.

She began her workshops about two years ago, initially as a different and creative way to socialise with friends. "I invited fellow artists and teachers to my house twice a month to paint. They started bringing friends and it has grown from there," she says.

Painting watercolours on to silk can be a tricky business, and she admits it does take a bit of practice. Normally

in traditional Vietnamese silk painting the surface is tempered to stop the paints spreading too much, a process that can take months. Erdman employs a type of masking fluid to limit where the colours are absorbed, so she and her students can achieve better results more quickly.

"We are doing very much a 21st century version of watercolours on silk," she says.

Travellers on holiday are also increasingly taking part in the classes. Erdman says she believes it is because they are looking for a creative

"I invited fellow artists and teachers to my house twice a month to paint. They started bringing friends and it has grown from there."

experience while they are in the country, and once it is removed from the screen the silk makes a very transportable memento from their visit.

The workshops have a maximum of six participants, so it is intimate and there is plenty of time for guidance over the two-and-a-half hours. Erdman is taking a break for a couple of months for the birth of her first child, but the session will pick up again in September.

Find out more about the watercolour works at Saigonartretreats. weebly.com

AsiaLIFE HCMC 41

T-shirt (Palette): VND 1,350,000 Houndstooth pants (Palette): VND 2,230,000 Ring: VND 1,800,000

MODERN It’s Happened to be a Closet - Saigon: 89 Mac Thi Buoi Location: Cuc Gach Quan café Model: Le Thanh Phuong Facebook.com/itshappenedsaigon

42 AsiaLIFE HCMC

"

RETRO "

It’s Happened to be a Closet boutique first opened its doors five years ago in Bangkok, where it became a cult destination for beautiful vintage and handcrafted clothing.

Its Ho Chi Minh City outpost on Mac Thi Buoi Street also welcomes those endeared by vintage prints. A boutique-cum-nail salon, it has the privilege of featuring not only the store’s namesake pieces, but their sister brand Palette.

New arrivals from Palette’s Spring-Summer ‘14 Dots and Pixel collection feature retro cuts and prints inspired by social media, in which online comments multiply and are expressed through punctuation. Naturally, bright neon dots, bold patterns or cute figures are arranged in artful graphic designs that are lively but sweet.

Dots and Pixel Collection by Palette Pink polka dot dress: VND 3,690,000 AsiaLIFE HCMC 43

Fringe leather bag (Palette): VND 5,230,000 Oversize dress: VND 6,900,000 Belt (Palette): VND 1,970,000 44 AsiaLIFE HCMC

AsiaLIFE HCMC 45

ist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

listings

hotel & travel

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

AIRLINES

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tour-

escape

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a cafe and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com

take flight with travel promotions around the region

50 percent discount at Hue's Vedana Lagoon

Vedana Lagoon resort in Hue is offering 50 percent discount on the current room rate. Guests who book seven nights or more can also receive one 40-minute foot acupressure or scalp treatment, a 60-minute Vietnamese body treatment or aromatherapy facial and a one-time traditional cuisine cooking class at lunch time. Vedana is known for having the first overwater bungalows in Vietnam. For reservations, email info@vedanalagoon.com.

Strawberry Picking in Dalat

Escape the heat in Dalat with Edensee’s Huong Mua He promotional package running through August. Guests can spend three days and two nights from

46 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

VND 5,490,000 with free use of the pool, gym, cinema and tennis court. Be sure to handpick strawberries at the strawberry garden or relax at La Roseraie Spa with two gift vouchers for massages. The package also includes a romantic dinner for two at the restaurant every night. For booking, contact info@dalatedensee.com.

Stay 3 Pay 2 at Mango Bay Phu Quoc

Mango Bay Phu Quoc is running a promotional package of “Stay 3 Pay 2” for two at VND 2,520,000 valid through October.

The eco-resort benefits from two secluded beaches to swim or sunbathe, an island vegetable patch, butterfly farm, orchid garden and a forest reserve. A boat which seats up to 15 persons is also available as well as a

Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

HOI AN & DANANG

Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools. All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo,

spa that overlooks the beach. For booking or further info, contact reservations@ mangobayphuquoc.com.

delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Boutique Hoi An Resort Tel: 84 51 03 93 91 11 www.boutiquehoianresort.com This resort is located on Cua Dai Beach in Hoi An, just five minutes from the Old Town and 30 minutes from the Da Nang airport. The property has 82 rooms and villas, all with private balconies or terraces facing the ocean, a swimming pool and a wide range of cuisine from around the world.

PHAN THIET

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungleclad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911

infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

CHUDU24 hotel booking service 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 info.en@chudu24.com www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Vietnam

Book online Cambodia

Laos

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel.

VUNG TAU

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international

first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's

www.beeninASIA.com

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

AsiaLIFE HCMC 47

One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

listings

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza. 

CAFES

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org

feast

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel

Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty

broaden your palate with promotions around town

The Emperor of Chefs Love Thai cuisine? The Square’s Thai food promotion features a buffet lunch at VND 449,000 or seafood buffet dinner at VND 749,000 with free flow of soft drinks, draught beer and house wine. Enjoy dishes like tom yum soup, beef massaman curry, mee kra-ti, pla rad prik, fried whole fish and more. Promotion runs 2-8 June.

The Square is at Novotel Saigon Centre, 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3.

New Zealand specialties at Corso Steakhouse Corso Steakhouse and Bar is organising a three-course meal of New Zealand specialties for lunch and dinner this month. Flavoursome dishes range from appetisers like pepper salmon salad to signature main dishes like New Zealand

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strip-loin steak or sauteed jumbo tiger prawns with parmesan cheese. Dessert options include gratin of kiwi with premium ice cream. Corso is on the ground floor of the Norfolk Hotel at 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1.

Auguste Escoffier Reflections restaurant is celebrating culinary legend Auguste Escoffier, known for giving the world the a la carte menu and catering to European royalty and established hotel kitchens for 62 years. From 21-27 June, diners can experience Escoffier’s genius in a four-course Auguste Escoffier Degustation Menu priced at VND 1,488,000. Reflections is on the third floor at 19-23 Lam Son Square. For more info, email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known

industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around.

Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Organiser

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining

room.

The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a

Premier Par��er

th The 6 Annual Sat�rday, 7th June 2014, 7 pm - 1 am at InterContinental Asiana Saigon

DƯỢC MỸ PHẨM CHĂM SÓC DA HÀNG ĐẦU THỤY SĨ

saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com,Telephone: (08) 3930 3502 AsiaLIFE HCMC 49

By Michael Kloster

IMBIBE The Other Red Grapes A few months ago we contemplated a world beyond Sauvignon Blanc. Now I’d like you to think of what the wine landscape might look like beyond the king of grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon. I’m highlighting three of literally thousands of varietals available worldwide.

Barbera Italy is the largest producer of wine by volume in the world.

They produce wine from over 800 different kinds of grapes.

Barbera is one of the signature wines of Piemonte, which is in the upper west side of the country near France. It is the third most planted wine grape in Italy, so you will find plenty of these on wine lists and in your favourite wine shops.

Barbera is known to be quite fruity and rich but with a lighter body. It’s often aged in oak barrels, which adds some nuances in flavour, like spice and vanilla. Try Barbera with fatty meat dishes, which are complemented by the acidity, or any kind of rich game or earthy dishes.

Carmenere Carmenere is a French refugee that’s found a new lease on life in Chile, where they now proudly consider it their own. It is in fact one of the qualified grapes of Bordeaux, where it was once blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Carmenere was considered extinct with the last 50 AsiaLIFE HCMC

French plantings destroyed by the 19th-century Phyloxera epidemic. The grape was cultivated for over a century in Chile where they thought it was a type of Merlot.

Carmenere is deep red, fruity and spicy and pairs easily with food. It is light enough with a nice pork dish, but can also handle heartier fare like beef and lamb. Like the Barbera, Carmenere is nice with earthy and mushroom flavours.

Malbec Malbec is also a Bordeaux refugee. A particularly harsh winter in the 1950s froze too many vines and many farmers gave up on the varietal. Nowadays Malbec has become the signature wine of Argentina which now produces 75 percent of the world supply. They still grow some in the south of France, as well as in Chile and in parts of western US. Malbec is plump, full of dark fruit and plentiful in the mouth. Most of my friends who were weaned on Aussie Shiraz appreciate its full-bodied character and downright mouthwatering juiciness. I like Malbec with steak and pepper sauce, as the wine handles spice quite well, as opposed to a more tannic, bitter wine like Cabernet Sauvignon.

Michael Kloster is the senior sales executive at Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at michael@magnumwinecellars.com.

price range to suit most budgets.

promotions are also available.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. 

JAPANESE Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal

KOREAN

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with artdeco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Grillbar 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 79 01 A Vietnamese restaurant with a focus on charcoal-grilled meat brings classic Vietnamese street food indoors to a modern, clean environment.

Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.

nightlife

BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more

recipes

RUCOLA PESTO DIP As everyone knows, pesto is made from basil and originated in Genova in the Liguria region of Italy.

I would say sorry to the purists who are particular about this dish as I switch the basil for the more interesting bitter taste of Rocket.

This is a great dip for bread sticks for afternoon bites or an appetizer.

Ingredients • 200 grams rucola (Rocket) • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil • 50 grams pine nuts • 50 grams grated pecorino cheese • 2 cloves of garlic • 1/2 teaspoon pepper • 200 grams cream cheese • Bread Sticks

Instructions • Prepare your food pro-

cessor and throw in the 200 grams of rucola.

• Pour in the extra virgin olive oil followed by pine nuts, pecorino and garlic.

• Add a bit of pepper to taste.

• Lock the food processor and blend them all together.

• Once the mixture is done and ready like a pesto, prepare the cream cheese.

• Remove the rucola pesto from the food processor and pour it into a bowl.

• Add the cream cheese to the mixture and mash it all together.

• Using a spatula, mix it thoroughly and it's ready.

• Place the mixture in a jar and put them inside the fridge and serve it whenever you crave something different for snacks or appetiser.

• Ideal serving will be with bread sticks

Recipes provided by Joanie Manalang Artist-chef.blogspot.com

AsiaLIFE HCMC 51

popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

LOCAL EATS

By Tristan Ngo

The Best Banh Mi in Town For our journey to dine where the locals dine, I've decided to take on one of the most popular and most iconic food items, banh mi (bread, or more precisely, baguette). We have to thank the French for introducing it during their colonial heyday. However, Vietnamesestyle banh mi is airier, fluffier and has a much thinner crust compared to its French counterpart. The taste is distinctive, light, crusty and simple.

In Vietnam, banh mi refers to any type of meat-filled baguette. A typical baguette is filled with various Vietnamese style thit nguoi (cold-cuts), pork liver paté, shredded chicken or pork floss. It’s also stuffed with fresh sliced cucumber, cilantro leaves, sliced chillies (for that extra kick), mayonnaise, soy sauce and shredded pickled carrots and daikon. Other fillings, such as grilled chicken, canned sardines and ice cream (yes, ice cream) are also quite common and popular. The beauty about banh mi is that you can have it made to order and wolf it down with an iced coffee, fruit smoothie or, my personal favourite, fresh sugar cane juice any time of the day.

Travel on any street in Saigon and you're likely to run into a banh mi vendor. But where do you find the best banh mi in Saigon? There are many good banh mi places in the city but it is boils down to personal taste, location and preferences. Here is my recommended list of the 52 AsiaLIFE HCMC

popular and delicious banh mi places to start your journey.

Banh Mi Huynh Hoa 26 Le Thi Rieng Street near Cach Mang Thang 8, D1 Open for over 10 years, try their banh mi with cha lua (Vietnamese sausage or pork roll), pork liver paté, shredded chicken floss and butter. Open from 3.30pm to midnight. Average cost is VND 28,000.

Banh Mi Sau Minh 170 Vo Van Tan Street, D3 Open since 1976, try their banh mi xiu mai (soft pork meatballs), which is quite stunning. Open 24 hours. Average cost is VND 22,000.

Banh Mi Bui Thi Xuan 122E Bui Thi Xuan Street, D1 Open for over 20 years, try their standard banh mi thit nguoi (assorted cold cuts).

Open from 5.30am to 1.00am.

Average cost is VND 15,000.

Banh Mi Phuc Thinh Nguyen Sieu Street, D1 (in front of Hem 5 near Hai Ba Trung Street, next to the green coloured Mai Linh Taxi building) A classic street cart, try their breakfast banh mi with two fried eggs (sunny side up), pork paté and shredded pork floss.

I prefer it in the morning when everything is much fresher.

Open from 5.00am to 7.30pm, Monday to Friday. Cost is VND 15,000 for regular size and VND 20,000 for large.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro Anphu An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 53

listings

By Phil Kelly

FITNESS What is the Best Exercise?

The conventional approach to getting fit, joining the gym, is failing us. Who enjoys going to the gym? Very few. The International Health Club Association reports that 50 percent of all new health club members quit within the first six months of signing up and 90 percent of those who join health and fitness clubs will stop going regularly within the first three months.

But what, then, should be the best exercise?

Depending on who you ask, you’ll get a number of different answers. Some will say the squat, deadlift or perhaps sprinting uphill. Or, according to CrossFit athlete Rich Froning, the barbell thruster (squat with an overhead press). Still, do these fill you with motivation to get active and fit?

It seems there is a fundamental flaw in how we think when it comes to activity and fitness. The best exercise is the one you will do consistently and regularly. The challenge is to find something that you enjoy and compels you to participate.

Adherence is the most important factor in the effectiveness of a fitness regime.

With this in mind, I do believe there is a type of exercise that is better than others: play. I classify 'play' as an activity that you enjoy and actively want to participate in. As we get older we tend to forget the art of play.

Leading professionals also agree. Stuart Brown, a leading psychologist, proved that play continually shapes the human 54 AsiaLIFE HCMC

brain throughout our lifetime.

Mark Sisson, a world leading health and fitness professional, states that “when we embrace play, we claim a better quality of life for ourselves” by decreasing stress and connecting with others.

There are many benefits to play and this is prompting a change in how some cities are dealing with health issues related to inactivity. Much like in Saigon, New York is building adult playgrounds to get people active. Dr David Ludwig, a Harvard Medical School professor, says “the point is to make physical activity fun, easy and accessible, so it’s the normal thing to do.”

Are gyms failing us, or is it just a simple question of finding something that you enjoy? Zumba, dance classes, kickboxing, ultimate frisbee, whatever activity it is, when you include a social element where you develop friends and a sense of community, you will get fitness rewards and more.

How we approach and think about fitness as a society needs to be adjusted to focus on social aspects to drive adherence and make people remember how fun it is to move your body.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home.

Contact him though his website phil-kelly.com or Facebook. com/BodyExpertSystemVietnam.

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow

Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An

enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding

info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

LEISURE Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides,

From Japan to Vietnam… Settling in HCMC as a student

A

yaka Toida is from Saitama, which she describes as a sophisticated city with great shopping and very clean. She and her family relocated to Ho Chi Minh City a year ago due to the development of her father’s business. When she first came, she could not speak a word of English. After 12 months of being enrolled in the Australian International School where she has made friends from all over the world and is supported by native Englishspeaking teachers, Ayaka now speaks beautiful English and has developed tremendous

confidence. She took a leading role in last year’s School Production of ‘Grease the Musical’, where she performed in front of hundreds of parents and students. Ayaka is currently undertaking the IB Diploma Programme, which is a prestigious, world-recognised international pre-University qualification. Although she is finding the Diploma Programme difficult, she enjoys the challenges and the way students like her are taught. “Here, your opinions matter.

Teachers encourage you to think independently and creatively.” When she graduates from

Senior School in 2015, Ayaka will return to Japan to study at a Music college. She says: “AIS has given me a strong academic foundation and helped me to develop many invaluable skills that will I will cherish for the rest of my life.”

Read more “Settling in Ho Chi Minh City” stories at www.aisvietnam.com/ settlinginhcmc

+84 8 3742 4040

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AsiaLIFE HCMC 55

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treat-

sback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides

acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

MEDICAL

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068

56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

listings

CLOTHES

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

family ACTIVITIES Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com The EUROPEAN International School offers an English language curriculum based on the internationally recognised Primary Program (PYP), Middle Years Program

(MYP) and IB Diploma Program of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System.

The mission of the school is to educate global citizens in a multilingual und multicultural learning environment in the setting of an educational village that focuses on international as well regional students International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited

by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335

From Australia to Vietnam… Settling in HCMC as a student

G

eorgia is a 14 year old girl from Darwin, a peaceful beach town in the North Australia.

Her family moved to Vietnam three years ago.

Being her first time away from home, she recalls feeling scared about the changes. In the first three months of being in here, Georgia wanted to go back to Darwin because the contrast between life in Vietnam and Australia was so huge. She missed the ‘golden silence’ that was rare in the bustling District 3 and she missed the regular fishing trips on her dad’s boat. When her family moved to Thao Dien and Georgia enrolled at her new School, she began to enjoy

her new found experience in Ho Chi Minh City.

At the weekend, she likes to spend time with friends having lunch in nice restaurants. Her favourite hang-out place is L’Usine, where “they do delicious salads and wonderful cupcakes”. She could walk around the city for hours and not be bored as the city is always changing and there are always new things to be discovered. Georgia feels that she’s grown as a person since coming to Vietnam. The experience has broadened her horizons; she is working much harder at school than she did back home, which will open up many opportunities for her in the future: ‘Teachers push

you to achieve your best. They are supportive yet encourage you to think independently. Classes are smaller than at home, so we get a lot of individual attention! There are many interesting subjects to choose from too’. Georgia will be taking her IGCSE exams next year and is excited to be able to do IGCSE Economics, IGCSE Biology and IGCSE Art on top of the compulsory subjects.

Her advice for young people who are new to Vietnam is: ‘Don’t stay in. Explore the city, there’s always something new to learn’.

+84 8 3742 4040

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District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added.

ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

By Gemma Mullen

KIDS CORNER Toddler Milestones Following last month’s column on baby milestones, this time I focus on your toddler’s developments. There are some challenging behaviours ahead as your bouncing, babbling baby becomes a talkative toddler, but try not to worry, as swift changes are very much the norm.

One to two years: By now your little lovely will be more aware of feelings and may even look sad if another child is crying. They will begin to really enjoy playing with others with their communication skills improving all the time, which makes interacting with friends all the more enjoyable. Luckily for us mummies, this is also the time when toddlers are learning to follow certain commands – finally some help with tidy-up time. On the flip side, speech should also be developing rapidly, with more words being spoken every month and the first instances of putting two words together. The fun times have really started now, with little mites climbing on and off furniture, feeding themselves and scribbling in increasingly inconvenient places.

Two to three years: As toddlers become preschoolers there’s no stopping them.

It’s full steam ahead with their physical skills and your little one should now run like Usain Bolt, kick a ball like Lionel Messi and even dress himself like… Liberace? At this age children enjoy building with blocks, completing simple puzzles and show confidence 58 AsiaLIFE HCMC

with speech by using pronouns and three- or four-word sentences. Children at this age are exploring the world around them and will begin to ask questions to aid their knowledge and understanding. However, this is also the time when the dreaded ‘terrible twos’ phase may kick in, so get ready to deal with tantrums of Elton-esque proportions.

Three to four years: Your child will now be talking the hind legs off any nearby donkeys and you’ll see increasing instances of your little guy or girl going off and playing nicely with others. They will also be more curious than ever before, so prepare yourself to answer just why, exactly, dragons can breath fire but dinosaurs cannot, or why that man (who you’ve never seen before) is doing that. One truly big development at this stage comes in imaginative terms, so expect many games to involve your little one dressing up and taking on different roles. Your little monster is rapidly becoming a fully functioning person and can now help solve simple problems, follow instructions and display improved hand-toeye coordination by completing tasks such as fastening buttons… or mixing mummy a mojito!

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 7827 Fax: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residen-

tial Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your palce for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center

AsiaLIFE HCMC 59

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

By Elizabeth Png

HOME IMPROVEMENT Understanding Your Bed Linens Given that we spend a third of our lives on them, bed linens tend to accumulate dead skin, dust mites, sweat and hair oil residue. This makes it important to launder our bedding regularly.

Proper care and maintenance of bedsheets doesn’t rid our beds of allergens and bacteria. Laundering them correctly extends their longevity, reduces damage such as fraying and shrinking, and can provide a more comfortable surface to rest on.

Many washing machines in the marketplace come with intelligent wash programs and customised settings for different types of fabric materials.

From luxurious cotton weaves to soft bamboo fibres, the options in bedding materials have grown and require proper laundering to stay in optimal conditions.

One of the most common materials, cotton, tends to come in two types for bedding: 100 percent cotton or Egyptian cotton. Recently, organic cotton has increased in popularity as it is harvested without harmful pesticides and is considered environmentally friendly.

In all cases, it is best to use a gentle wash cycle with cool or lukewarm water, as high temperature washes can cause cotton to shrink. It is also best to dry them in tumble dryers which offer gentle, low temperature drying cycles.

Linen is a luxurious fibre that can feel nice and cool in hot weather, and it gets softer with use. Regular washing of linen 60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

helps the softening process.

They can be washed at high temperatures of up to 95C, but it is best to wash them at a warm 60C. High wash temperatures can wear linens out faster, so use them only on heavily-soiled beddings.

Thread count refers to the density of the weave in threads per square inch. The thread count of bed sheets is commonly used to denote the quality of the bedding. A high thread count of 400 to 1,000, for example, is considered luxurious, since the material needs to be spun more finely.

As with all fine materials, high thread count bedding requires more care when laundering because they are easily damaged by high heat or rough handling.

Some high thread count sheets are best hand-washed or even dry cleaned. When they can be laundered, use a cold or lukewarm wash with a high-quality, gentle detergent.

If you prefer sleeping in a natural environment without the air conditioner, it might be best to change your sheets once a week or bi-weekly. Spare sheets should be neatly folded and kept in a cool, dry closet or drawer. If you want to keep your fabric from yellowing, you can line the surface of the storage area with acid-free tissue paper.

Elizabeth Png is the brand and consumer communications director for Electrolux Vietnam.

She can be contacted at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux. com.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, elec-

tronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

By Greg Ohan

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything

HOT PROPERTY Honey, We're Moving So where is the hot new spot to live in Ho Chi Minh City? According to everything I have seen, heard and continue to be told by the converted, the winner appears to be District 2.

I decided to take to the streets to understand the reasons behind the exodus to District 2 and to share my top five safety tips for moving.

As I ride over the Saigon Bridge and down the Hanoi Highway, the reasons are hard to miss: new residential and commercial developments which did not exist two years ago; a metro line which is finally taking shape; and a bridge closely linking this district to the city, which is no longer terribly gridlocked.

What are the options there?

In terms of location, you cannot beat Thao Dien Pearl.

With the city’s best views, a direct connection to the future metro line and only two exclusive towers with a retail podium, this is an easy sell.

And as you venture further along the highway, what you lose in terms of location and view is made up by amenities. Estella is a great example of this. A free pool, gym and resort feel makes up for the additional hike from Thao Dien Pearl. Further along, the Vista, a larger-scale development, also ticks a number of boxes. All this available from $900-1,500 per month.

Once you do make the

move, here are some tips, so you don’t have to learn the hard way: 1. Don’t get stitched-up by your lease – Please, take the time to read it. Don’t just sign paperwork slid across the kitchen counter to you by the landlord. The devil is always in the details.

2. Check the cabinets – Not just to ensure they work, but this is also the easiest way to ensure the apartment is not infested.

3. Talk with the neighbours before you sign – Never sign a lease on the spot, especially if it’s in an apartment building.

4. Make sure everything actually works – Flick every switch, check every plug, flush all the toilets and make sure you have the right water pressure in the shower.

5. Take photos of every minor flaw – Your landlord might seem like a nice person but 12 months down the track you will need photographic evidence.

It's perfectly fine to be polite and to assume the best from people, but when it comes to apartment hunting, do your research and don’t be shy. A firm and educated approach upfront will save you pain, time and money in the future. Happy hunting.

Greg Ohan is the national director of CBRE, a Fortune 500 real estate services provider. Email your questions to greg.ohan@cbre.com or visit Cbrevietnam.com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 61

from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER Headhunting 101 (Part 2) We have recently been working with a HR manager who has decided that he wants to try working with an agency (us) on particular recruitment projects (for our clients). He has extensive HR and recruitment experience, but he has found that our world is completely unlike the one he is used to.

Let me explain.

For one thing, we don’t have teams of people to do this and that; we do it all ourselves.

From researching potential target industries, companies and candidates, to calling them, to entering the information into our database – we do it all, and have the discipline to do it in a timely manner so that it’s correct and relevant. If you have ever interviewed more than two or three people in a day and not taken notes, then you may recall that by the next day it is hard to remember who said what, or who had this or that experience. Imagine doing that with 20 candidates on the phone or in person each day.

It’s impossible without notes.

Another aspect that is important to remember in our business is to treat our candidates with respect. They are people. And they are candidates, not applicants, looking to make a change. Our candidates are typically very happy where they are and are not actively seeking a change of employer; this means that if we don’t treat them respectfully we may lose their trust and their interest and then we’ll have to consider those of lower ability and quality. So 62 AsiaLIFE HCMC

you see, we have to be careful in our approach and our handling of people. We can’t be off-hand or too casual or we may lose them.

When it comes to assembling a shortlist, our new colleague has found it a lot more difficult than he expected.

I imagine that he has been serviced by recruitment agencies that think, ‘we have three candidates, that's OK,’ rather than our approach which is to find the best in the market in a thorough manner, not leaving anything to chance.

This has been very revealing and we have struggled to get him to accept that a search assignment continues right up to the minute the successful candidate signs the client’s job offer. Up until that point we must assume (and look for) a better candidate, just in case the preferred one doesn’t sign.

Hoping for the best is not a business strategy that we can afford to employ.

Anyway, I think we’ve made progress and, bit by bit, he's getting used to our way of doing things. We’ll see how he progresses. Headhunting is one of the hardest jobs around.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia. net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas.

Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including

executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com MOVING!?

Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support ! services also availble.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

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0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam

listings

fashion By Christina Yu

FASHION RULES Fashion Anarchy “I think there is beauty in everything. What ‘normal’ people would perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it.”

- Alexander McQueen There are few times in my life when I feel like I am working in an absolutely frivolous industry and this moment is one of them.

Whilst Thailand is on the brink of a civil war, the Turkish miners’ strike is heating up and all the anti-Chinese protests are escalating in Vietnam, I am sitting here dealing with another kind of revolution at the Singapore BluePrint trade show, Fashion Anarchy. Lawless. Ruleless. Chaotic. Should I call this Anar-CHIC? What were they thinking?

I always dread trade shows: all the setting up, striking down, talking to strangers incessantly about how great your brand is and how special your products are.

On the other hand, it can also be a breath of fresh air just to see how attendees dress in what they define as fashion.

There are no boundaries and no rules but a self expression of who they are.

Yes, normal people would possibly consider them crazy, odd and bizarre but yet, it can be aesthetically pleasing. Not simply because it is out of the norm, but because every detail in what they wear tells a story about who they are and it makes sense when they are all put together.

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These individuals are the exceptionally fashion-conscious crowd that know how to mix their highs and lows, the classic and the cult, and the basic and the bizarre in an explicable, alternative way that inspires you and makes you realise that fashion should be multi-dimensional.

During my time in fashion, I am on an endless mission to find out and determine how they do it. Is it the kind of clothes they buy? Or is it the number of fashion magazines that they look at per month?

Or is it the fashion friends that they are exposed to and choose to surround themselves with? I have come to the final conclusion that it is all of the above.

Remember that in fashion the most important thing is that every individual has an eye for what they like and an innate sense of their style and their identity, so it is not just about what they wear but how they wear it.

In the end, clothes are important, but how to stamp them with your style, your personality and your attitude to make it your own? Yes, it’s easier said than done to make anarchy look chic. First and foremost, you need to forget everyone’s opinion and believe in your own.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipa-nima.com or visit Ipa-nima.com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Ginkgo Concept Store 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 0905 493 148 www.gingko-vietnam.com A unique shopping space that offers an original and creative mix of made-inVietnam clothing from local designers, artisans and brands that stay true to the company’s environmentally friendly principles.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212

Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788

66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

TAILORS

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

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Star Polo

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Sailing Club Labour Day Party

Warm Bread Wine Dinner

Photos by Philip J Deans, Harvey Morrison and Brett Davis.

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Sheraton Nha Trang Pool Party

The Cairos at Cargo Bar

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radar A taste of pop culture

Flavorwire.com If you like to get a little bit ‘thinky’ about the arts and popular culture, then this website is not a bad option. Covering topics as diverse as film, books, television, design, theatre, fashion and photography, you can spend more than a few hours browsing through Flavorwire's articles, while the newswire section also aggregates similar stories from other publications around the web. Being a US-based site, the content is unsurprisingly US-centric, but then so is much of today’s popular culture. Like sites covering similar ground from a relatively similar perspective (think Salon, Slate or Pajiba), some of the more polemical pieces can read like an undergraduate essay for a comparative literature class, but there is more than enough smart and funny content elsewhere on Flavorwire to make up for this.

Learning your ABCs

Readingeggs.com.au Designed to make learning to read fun and interactive for kids, this site is a service from Australia’s public broadcaster. Developed by an experienced team of educational teachers, writers and developers, the site has a host of games and songs that help children develop their reading ability. Kids can progress at their own pace, and they are also able to earn ‘golden egg’ rewards that will keep them wanting to return. Every lesson ends with a new book and a new critter to add to their collection. There are currently 120 individual lessons on the site that are suitable for four- to seven-year-olds. The Reading Eggs program focuses on a core reading curriculum of phonics and sight words using skills and strategies essential for sustained reading success.

In fact, this site is so useful and educationally beneficial it almost seems out of place on the internet.

OMG, that’s so…

Attackofthecute.com Aaaaaand we’re back, from the useful and educationally beneficial to the, well, not. Ever wonder where all those pictures and videos of cute animals doing adorable things come from? You know, the ones that continually pop up all over the internet like mushrooms after a summer rainstorm? The answer is right here, at Attackofthecute.com. While you may not learn a whole lot from this site, you could make a case that it does do some good.

If it makes people happy to look at pictures of fluffy kittens, then why the hell not? The world can use every little bit of happiness it can get. And you have to admit, they are pretty damn cute.

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The Bourbon Street Jazz Festival would like to thank the sponsors of the 2014 Festival

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The Beat – With Q4 radio

soundfix soundfix

Red House Glory

By Samia El-Balawi I came across a band that quite literally made me stop everything I was doing at the time and just listen. The song opened to a steady drum beat, followed by a deep bass line; then came a grungy guitar riff and tuneful vocals that led to a catchy chorus and the creation of what literally was music to my ears. That song was called Lead Me Away and the band’s name was Red House Glory, who we absolutely dig at Q4radio.com. Hailing from London, the group are made up of Lewis Knaggs on vocals and guitar, Jonny Greenfield on bass, Nathan Grace on guitar, and Theo Grace on drums.

In 2013, Red House Glory recorded and released a live EP entitled Fever; a venture that many might say is daring coming from a new band. Daring it was and it paid off as the EP was met with widespread positivity reflected through the impressively tight sound of each of the four tracks, namely 'Fever', 'Lonely', 'Lead Me Away' and 'Only One'.

Red House Glory’s sound is refreshingly unique and adds a modern twist to the reviving rock genre. With influences from 90s bands such as Nirvana and Pearl Jam, as well as older legends like Led Zeppelin and The Rolling Stones, Red House Glory reflect their love of these varying styles through their own brand of music. The Fever Live EP was actually an unplanned release and was created as a way of sharing live performances with their many overseas fans.

Red House Glory have played several gigs around

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London in spots like The Barfly in Camden, The Borderline in Soho and The Roundhouse at Chalk Farm. This past month they headed up north to perform at Liverpool Sound City where they also made waves the previous year and which will, no doubt, result in yet more gigs for the coming months.

'Painkiller' is the band’s brand new single mixed by producer Simon Bloor, and it is a combination of blues-heavy guitar tones and weighty lyrics together with an incredibly cool bridge that tops the song off in a typically Red House Glory style of doing things their way.

Enjoying growing recognition not only in their native London but both nationally and internationally, Red House Glory are on the rise.

So keep your ears open for a band that will bring a great deal of listening pleasure to your day.

On a final note, if you’re wondering how the band decided upon their name and you guessed that it has something to do with the 1967 Jimi Hendrix blues song, 'Red House', you’d be absolutely right.

Listen and read more about Red House Glory through their following social media links: Facebook.com/redhouseglory www.soundcloud.com/redhouseglory Youtube.com/user/RedHouseGlory Q4radio.com

LE BUTCHERETTES CRY IS FOR THE FLIES

With a tangle of hair and a drawl to match, Teri 'Gender Bender' Suaréz exudes rock rebel vibes. As the front woman of Mexican garage punk band Le Butcherettes, Gender Bender composes songs, plays a mean guitar, and sings with a spirit reminiscent of Karen O. Despite international acclaim for the group’s 2011 debut album, the Latin American music scene hasn’t been kind to the Le Butcherettes’ feminism forward indie rock.

So, in 2012, Gender Bender left behind her family in Guadelajara for Los Angeles, a move that spurred much of her inspiration for sophomore album Cry Is for the Flies.

“Travelling from place to place to find my kind,” she sings on ‘Poet from Nowhere’. But it’s perhaps the sense that Gender Bender and Le Butcherettes – which also includes Omar Rodríguez-López of Mars Volta – don’t quite fit in anywhere that makes their music so spectacular.

KISHI BASHI LIGHGHT

Is that a violin I hear? Singersongwriter Kaoru Ishibashi, who performs under the name Kishi Bashi, shows off the classical instrument’s versatility. As a founder of synth rock fivesome Jupiter One and a touring member of art rock outfit Of Montreal, Ishibashi is an accomplished violinist who creates charmingly experimental indie pop. From the feverish violin solo opener to the psychedelic blend of synths and looped vocals used throughout, Lighght is full of the unexpected. With an architectural approach, Ishibashi layers sound upon sound to produce complex sonic constructions. The record’s prettiest tune, ‘Q&A’, evokes the quirky romanticism of John Lennon, whereas ‘The Ballad of Mr. Steak’ sounds like M83 on steroids. A sense of playfulness reigns throughout Kishi Bashi’s music, inviting listeners to have as much fun as he seems to be having.

album review

endorsed

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen 44 Scotland Street Series

By Brett Davis

FATIMA

CONOR OBERST

YELLOW MEMORIES

UPSIDE DOWN MOUNTAIN

A debut album that begins with a self-critical track entitled ‘Do Better’, Yellow Memories is a study in potential and promise. Based in London, Fatima Bramme Sey is one of an emerging group of Swedes currently interpreting soul-inspired R&B. And although she may not be as pop friendly as her compatriots Naomi Pilgrim and Mapei, that may only strengthen her appeal amongst some listeners. A capella segments throughout the album highlight Fatima’s earthy, mellifluous vocals, reminiscent of soulful songstress Erykah Badu.

A diversity of influences enriches each track, such as the Middle East-inspired rhythms on ‘Ridin’ Round (Sky High)’. Yet there’s a sense of Fatima holding back, keeping her vocal range and emotion in check. As a whole, the album delivers a soundtrack for unwinding after a long day, with the glimmer of a brilliant tomorrow on the horizon.

Conor Oberst launched his music career during his teenage years. Known as the frontman of Bright Eyes, Oberst’s mix of folk pop and indie rock is marked by his eternally boyish, quavering vocals and sparse instrumentation.

Twenty years later, his music no longer sounds as unique amidst a wave of young artists he has in part inspired. Yet his songs continue to resonate with wounded-soul vulnerability, using bittersweet poetry for lyrics. “I’m blessed with a heart that doesn’t stop,” he croons on ‘Zigzagging Toward the Light’, the second track on his latest solo album. Upside Down Mountain marks a return to Oberst’s early sound, with a sense of effortlessness that’s been lacking in his more recent work. Oberst draws fair comparisons to Morrissey, Wilco, Neil Young, Bob Dylan and other greats, but when he’s on form, there’s no one else quite like him.

Scottish author Alexander McCall Smith is legendary for his prolific literary output. In addition to being a professor of medical law at Edinburgh University, he has written scores of novels for adults and children, collections of short stories and academic texts.

Many of these novels are produced in series, the most well-known of these being the international best-selling The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency.

The 44 Scotland Street series, which is now comprised of nine books in total, first appeared in serial form in The Scotsman newspaper in 2004, appearing each weekday for almost six months.

The books chronicle the lives of an eclectic group of characters inhabiting the Georgian Newtown section of Edinburgh, most of whom (at least initially), are residents of a tenement at the eponymous address.

The finely-drawn characters represent a place where the upper-classes rub shoulders with artists, students and young professionals. There is Pat, a 20-year-old on a gap year who rents a room from the abominably vain surveyor Bruce, and who works in the gallery of artisticallychallenged Matthew. Across the hall is anthropologist Domenica, who is often visited by her friend, the portraitist Angus. Downstairs is the Pollock family, made up of the passive Stuart, pushy Irene and their long-suffering six-year-old son Bertie.

These are not novels of high drama, but rather they follow the gentle travails of these and the other protagonists with sharp

observations of human behaviour and a droll sense of humour. Above all, what comes through is McCall’s compassion for his characters and his deep affection for the city of Edinburgh.

The concept for the series was partly inspired by Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the City that appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle prior to being published as novels. The 44 Scotland Street books retain the short, episodic chapters of the original newspaper serial but with perspective shifting between characters.

This structure allows the author to reveal what is going on inside the heads of the different players, as well as allowing him to make digressions via the different characters on many varied topics ranging from the history of Scottish arts to the creeping influence of political correctness.

There is something about McCall’s writing, and the world he has created on Scotland Street, that is utterly engaging. And while they will never be considered high literature, the simplicity of the stories and beauty of the prose have you wishing you could keep inhabiting this wonderful city along with the characters you have come to know so well.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 73

boxoffice

Maleficent

X-Men: Days of Future Past

Blended

Dawn of the Planet of the Apes

This film explores the untold story of Disney's most iconic villain from the classic Sleeping Beauty, and the elements of her betrayal that ultimately turn her pure heart to stone. After Maleficent (Angelina Jolie) cruelly places an irrevocable curse upon the human king's newborn infant Aurora, she later realises that Aurora may hold the key to peace in the land and is forced to take drastic actions that will change both forever.

The ultimate X-Men ensemble (including Hugh Jackman, Jennifer Lawrence, Peter Dinklage, Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart) fights a war for the survival of the species across two time periods in this latest installment of the series. The characters from the original X-Men film trilogy join forces with their younger selves from the past (X-Men: First Class) in order to change a major historical event and fight in an epic battle that could save the future.

After a disastrous blind date, single parents Lauren (Drew Barrymore) and Jim (Adam Sandler) agree on only one thing: they never want to see each other again. But when they each sign up separately for a fabulous family vacation with their kids, they are all stuck sharing a suite at a luxurious African safari resort for a week in Blended, the third romantic comedy collaboration between stars Adam Sandler and Drew Barrymore, following The Wedding Singer and 50 First Dates.

A growing nation of genetically evolved apes led by Caesar (Andy Serkis) is threatened by a band of human survivors of the devastating virus unleashed a decade earlier. They reach a fragile peace, but it proves short-lived, as both sides are brought to the brink of a war that will determine who will emerge as Earth's dominant species. The movie, also starring Gary Oldman and Keri Russell, is the sequel to Rise of the Planet of the Apes (2011) reboot of Planet of the Apes (1968) and the eighth film in the entire franchise.

Opening Dates CINEMAS CGV CGV.vn

Galaxy Galaxycine.vn

74 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Maleficent (30 May) Dawn of the Planet of the Apes (30 May) Blended (30 May) Dawn of the Planet of the Apes (11 July) Blended (5 June)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf An Untamed State Roxane Gay Grove Press Roxane Gay’s debut novel depicts Haiti as a land of contrasts, where privilege and severe poverty exist side by side. Mireille Duval Jameson is the daughter of one of Haiti’s richest men.

This makes her a target for an armed gang, which kidnaps Mireille from outside her family’s walled estate in Portau-Prince. The ransom demanded is a million dollars, an affordable sum for her construction magnate father. But when he resists paying, Mireille is brutally tortured by the kidnappers, led by a man known as The Commander. After 13 days, Mireille is freed but remains haunted by her experience.

The Snow Queen

Michael Cunningham Farrar, Straus, & Giroux

As the Pulitzer Prize-winning author of The Hours, Michael Cunningham is considered one of the greatest living novelists. His latest book follows two New York City-based brothers as they embark down divergent paths. Yet both seek the same goal: transcendence. Barrett Meeks turns to religion after experiencing a divine-seeming light in the sky.

Although Barrett doesn’t believe in visions, he can’t ignore what he’s seen and seeks to understand more. Meanwhile, his brother Tyler is a struggling musician in Brooklyn. Desperate to write a song for his fatally ill fiancée, Tyler sees drugs as a means of finding creative inspiration.

It’s Complicated: The Social Lives of Networked Teens danah boyd Yale University Press Teenagers today have never known a world without the Internet. For communication, Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram are to teens what the telephone was to older generations. How is social media impacting today’s youth? It’s Complicated is scholar danah boyd’s (the lowercase is intentional) answer, drawing upon eight years of fieldwork on the social media habits of teens. With insight gleaned through interviews and observations, boyd explores how issues of identity, cyber bullying and privacy affect teenage social media users. She confronts myths exaggerating the dangers of online interaction, arguing that social media access is a means for teens to become informed and engaged citizens.

The Tyranny of Experts: Economists, Dictators, and the Forgotten Rights of the Poor William Easterly Basic Books The belief that global poverty can be eliminated with technical solutions dominates international development initiatives. In The Tyranny of Experts, economist William Easterly contends that this approach fails to create lasting change and lacks respect for the freedom of the world’s poor. A former World Bank executive and bestselling author of The White Man’s Burden, Easterly cites examples of international aid projects with disastrous results, such as collusion with dictators. In calling for new tactics for poverty reduction, Easterly writes: “It is critical to get the principles of action right before acting”.

According to his thesis, acknowledgement of local factors and the upholding of human rights is key.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 75

ODD ONE OUT This month, Dana Filek-Gibson cordially invites you to never take another selfie again.

"Forget drugs and drag racing: you want a social evil, look no further than the girl on a date with herself at the Coffee Bean, snapping selfies and Instagramming her latte for the world to see."

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Sometimes, when I'm feeling sad because I've run out of clean clothes and my cable doesn't work and the delivery man isn't here yet, I yearn for the past.

For 20 minutes ago, when I was staging a vigorous mental debate over paninis versus burritos. For last year, when I was gainfully unemployed and my sole responsibility in life was breathing. For my childhood, before acne hit, when it was still referred to as 'baby fat'.

Give me an afternoon and I'll run down everything I've ever loved and lost, from high school boyfriends to the pair of purple stretchpants in which I spent most of age 12. Nostalgia is by no means becoming, but it is an extraordinary distraction.

Which is why I've been thinking about car phones. Judge me all you want, but with every third person Instagramming their breakfast and teens and act-like-teens still up in arms over Flappy Bird, I'm trying to remember a simpler time. When Tamagochis were the height of technology. When laptops were the size of small children. When you could exact revenge on a sibling by picking up the telephone while he or she used the internet. Nothing, after all, says the Stone Ages like a phone that weighs 30 pounds and comes with a shoulder strap.

It was back in those glorious days, you see, that phones made phone calls and then did NOTHING. ELSE. There were no games or cameras or text messages. Single-function devices were all around us because we hadn't yet figured out how to multitask ourselves into oblivion. Today, however,

thanks to the advancements of the digital age, people can listen to Taylor Swift, ask Siri for directions, text, drive and get into an accident all at the same time.

The future is bright. Or maybe that's just the atmosphere on fire.

For as much good as technology has done, these gadgets have gotten out of hand – kids are talking trash on Facebook, nobody remembers what eye contact is and people keep calling BuzzFeed a news site. There are humans in the world who refer to FarmVille as though it's an actual place. Despite the wonders of the internet, I'm beginning to yearn for a reverse in our technological achievements.

In the old days, we might have spent our whole adolescence trying to commit the text of an NSYNC CD insert to memory, but we'd also be less startled when we met our friends and realised what they look like without Instagram filters.

Remember MySpace? That obscure corner of the internet reserved for attention-seeking tweens and forty-something men pretending to be twentysomething girls. Like any club on Bui Vien, it was the kind of seedy, darkened place that made you feel the need to shower immediately after visiting. It was the scourge of the internet, and on everyone's profile page was some lowbudget bathroom selfie, taken half-naked in front of a mirror.

Along with shoulder pads, perms and the Kardashians, this weird online enclave was created by somebody with poor judgment. But in a more reasonable era, people understood that

standing by yourself in a public bathroom with a camera phone was the arena of sex offenders. Nowadays, it seems, this is everyone's turf. Forget drugs and drag racing: you want a social evil, look no further than the girl on a date with herself at the Coffee Bean, snapping selfies and Instagramming her latte for the world to see. I don't know where we went wrong, but I would give anything to get the social stigma around selfies back.

Which is why I'm taking matters into my own hands. In an effort to stem the growing spate of autophotography, I'm going to handle this selfie epidemic like any adult would and start a gang. Before you roll your eyes or close this magazine, you're free to refer to us in any other way – a collective, perhaps, or an outreach organization – but whatever we're called, our aim is clear: to stop humans from photographing themselves by slapping the cell phones out of their hands. With deft strikes and a complete intolerance for duckface, we will rescue society. No more will food go cold while people decide which filter to use and how to hashtag it.

No more will you have to watch that tween in the corner agonise over finding the right camera angle. When people realise how much time they've saved NOT self-directing a photo shoot next to the women's toilet, we'll be heroes. So join me in this crusade and put an end to selfies before they start.

Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.

Letter

Hanoi from

Passing a colourful flag fluttering at the end of a dark narrow alley, we reluctantly entered the damp corridor. Cold concrete walls pushing in on both sides gave way to a steep curving staircase, which shielded the busy kitchen beyond. As kittens frolicked on the steps, we followed our guide upwards to the small room on the first floor.

Smelling of incense and fried garlic, the room quickly became crowded as the group glimpsed the display of plastic flowers, smoking joss sticks and piles of Choco-pie offerings. Three women sat mending clothes on the mats in front of the shrine, seemingly oblivious to the 10 foreigners who had assembled in the small room. Tucked up here, away from Hanoi’s hustle and bustle, there was a sense of calm and reflection.

Earlier that day I joined one of the regular walking tours offered by Friends of Vietnam Heritage (FVH).

Led by local history buff Jura Cullen, the walk explored some of the many chua, den and dinh scattered throughout Hanoi’s Nha Tho (Cathedral) neighbourhood. Prior to this walk, I was unaware that there are three primary types of buildings associated

with worship, all of which I incorrectly identified as pagodas, or chua in Vietnamese.

In addition to chua, there are den, non-Buddhist temples, as well as dinh, communal houses that usually include shrines to Buddha, local heroes and other gods. Our first stop, the temple with kittens on the stairs, was a dinh.

Back downstairs, past the now-sleeping kittens, we emerged into the familiar jumble of cafés, tourist shops and hawkers. Leading us down another alley marked by colourful square flags (signifying the path to the temple), Jura guided us towards an old den, tightly surrounded by a group of concrete tube houses. As I peered through the locked gates, I was surprised to see a large green courtyard beyond the central shrine.

Although den such as this one look similar to chua, the architectural design is slightly different. Sometimes including a small shrine to Buddha, the den is primarily a place to

Following the expert lead of Friends of Vietnam Heritage guide Jura Cullen, Katie Jacobs gets a glimpse of some of Hanoi’s hidden places of worship.

worship Confucius, various Taoist divinities, familial ancestors and local heroes.

Our final stop was the newly reconstructed Chua Ba Da just off Nha Tho Street.

Though founded in the 11th century, the current pagoda building is largely brand new.

“As a sign of respect, temples are regularly renovated and rebuilt using new and recycled materials,” says Jura. When dating pagodas, it is not the age of the actual structure that is significant, but the historic and sacred foundation that it sits upon.

Once inside, the unique chua architecture was clearly visible. Divided into three rooms aligned along a vertical axis, each room supported an individual pitched tiled roof.

The first room, a reception and prayer hall, along with the third room, a private area for the monks, supported roofs of the same height. The middle room, housing the shrine, buttressed the highest roof of all. Although Chua Ba Da displays a typical

Vietnamese chua design, Jura cautioned against sticking to definite rules when studying the chua, den and dinh. “Although we can make a few generalisations about the architecture and religious symbolism, there are always exceptions to the rules,” she says.

In addition to religious structures, Jura also pointed out many of the intricate architectural details, such as small carved balconies and barely visible windows, which line the area’s many crumbling facades. All but obscured behind the clutter of clothing lines, telecom wires and peeling yellow paint, these details are easy to miss if you don’t know where to look. After a year of walking these streets daily, I am still excited by hidden details that have previously escaped my notice. Now, thanks to Jura and the FVH team, I am inspired to continue walking, discovering and learning.

FVH is a volunteer group working to preserve and advance Hanoi’s culture and heritage. Jura Cullen offers walking tours independently and through FVH. For more information, visit the website (Fvheritage.org) or contact Jura at jura.cullen@cantab.net.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 77

pub quiz 1. What name is usually given to the flight data recorder on aircraft?

2. What is located at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington DC? 3. What connects the longest river in South Africa with a Californian county and King William III? 4. Which independent music and arts festival is held annually in the Brecon Beacons, Wales?

5. Which World Heritage Site is found in New South Wales, North of Sydney?

6. Whoopi Goldberg was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress for her role in which film?

7. What was Tom Clancy’s first novel that was made into a film starring Sean Connery and Alec Baldwin?

8. What identifies the leader in the Tour de France?

9. What kind of rays cause sunburn?

10. What does a smolt grow into?

Publishment Manager: Nguyeãn Theá Sôn Editor in Chief: Leâ Thò Thu Höông Editors: Phöông Lam Giang Traàn Ngoïc Thöông Designed by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC Cover & content by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC VIETNAM NEWS AGENCY PUBLISHING HOUSE 116 - 118 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q3 Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty CP TT QC AsiaLIFE Media

Leaders in Drag 26)

In 4,000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27cm taïi Coâng ty ITAXA ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

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8

Summertime 11. Who composed the aria ‘Summertime'?

12. What was the name of the Queen of Faeries in A Midsummer Night's Dream?

13. In which year were the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo cancelled?

14. Which Australian soap opera is set in Summer Bay? 15. Andy Summers was the guitarist with which hugely successful three-piece band?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

22. What fruit is used to make the drink kirsch?

23. According to the proverb, what fruit tastes the sweetest?

24. How is the Asian fruit citrus maxima better known?

25. Which fruit is found in Chinese art as a symbol of immortality?

5 3

28)

6 4

6

6 2

8

3

3

9

5 7

29)

7

8

4 5

9 30)

7

5 8

6 7

1

8

1) Black Box 2) The White House 3) Orange 4) The Green Man Festival 5) The Blue Mountains 6) The Colour Purple 7) The Hunt for Red October 8) The Yellow Jersey 9) Ultraviolet 10) Salmon 11) George Gershwin 12) Titania 13) 1940 14) Home and Away 15) The Police 16) The Mango Rains 17) Smurfs 18) Zimbabwe 19) Pina Colada 20) Perry 21) Avocado 22) Cherries 23) Forbidden 24) Pomelo 25) Peach 26) Prince Charles 27) Bill Clinton 28) Ban Ki-Moon 29) Arnold Schwarzenegger 30) Vladimir Putin

78 AsiaLIFE HCMC

1 4

Fruit 16. What name is given to the pre-monsoon rains in Southeast Asia?

17. Which characters are described as being three apples high?

18. Canaan Banana was the first president of which country?

19. What drink comprises rum, coconut milk and pineapple?

20. If apples make cider, what do pears make?

21. What fruit is sometimes called an alligator pear?

7

Pub Quiz Answers

The Rainbow Round

Why we love

mistakes

Because at ISHCMC we understand that mistakes are stepping stones to genuine learning.

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s students need to do more than memorise information in traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and see the difference we can make in your childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life.

International School Ho Chi Minh City 28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com

Nathan, Grade 1 ISHCMC student since 2009.

80 AsiaLIFE HCMC