AsiaLIFE Vietnam March 2014

OPEN DAYS March 5th April 2nd May 7th June 4th Register online at www.ishcmc.com

ISHCMC celebrates 20 years of

success

Simply the Best Choice in International Education in HCMC

AsiaLIFE volume 72 Asialifemagazine.com

20 front

06 News & Events 10 Dispatches

food

A Japanese pub

14 Q&A With Chef Michel Roux

40 Ty Coz

16 Photo Essay: Vietnam: A Mosaic of Contrasts 20 Living Clean

storyboard

26 Kickin' It

A greener Saigon

French food

41 Khoi Thom Mexican

style & design

Fashion from TonlĂŠ

28 A Recipe for Giving 30 The Ultimate Man Cave

42 Behind the Design: Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 44 Fashion

Sneakerhead sub-culture Giving leftovers away

Anyway you slice it

39 Nippon Izakaya

11 Street Smart: An Duong Vuong

cover story

38 Sterling's Saigon

back

Dan Sinh Market

48 The List 70 Spotlight 72 Street Guide

32 The 21st-Century Supermarket

80 Odd One Out

Solving Saigon's problems

81 A Libertine Abroad

getaways

Big talk on a small machine

34 Discovering Cebu

82 Pub Quiz

36 Along the River Gambia

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34

Cover Art direction Sarah Joanne Smith Photography Fred Wissink

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note from the editor Group director sales and marketing / director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Managing editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialifemagazine.com

Art director: Sarah Joanne Smith sarah@asialifemagazine.com Photo editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifemagazine.com Production manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialifemagazine.com Assistant editor: Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Administrative: Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

Editor-at-large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Chris Mueller These last few months have been tough. Between Christmas, New Years and Tet, it has been a hectic time for us at AsiaLIFE. With sources going away for extended holidays and businesses closing for weeks, our deadlines have been stressful.

But things are finally back to normal. People have returned from their Tet vacations, and the city is business as usual. This was my fifth Tet in Vietnam, and for the third time I decided to spend it in Saigon rather than take part in the massive human migration.

This year, however, I noticed something different once the city emptied. On Tet day, the air in Saigon was cleaner than I had ever seen it. It was like a shroud was lifted off the city and I could breath again. The sky was blue and the sunset was normal; no more of the orange haze that accompanies most sunsets in Saigon.

Then everyone came back. The temperature seemed to increase immediately by at least five degrees and I was once again coughing up a lung after driving in rush hour traffic.

This city clearly has a pollution problem, and one that is quickly getting worse. But people are beginning to take notice and rather than just complain (which is all I do), many are doing something about it. In our cover story we talk to a few of these people and look at some of the issues Saigon faces as it tries to balance development with sustainability. This is by no means an easy task, but it appears that a small green movement has begun and could soon snowball into something bigger.

Elsewhere in the issue, Ruben Luong delves into the quirky world of Saigon’s shoe-collecting ‘sneakerheads’ and also talks to the people behind a few of the new online supermarkets, which are trying to bring quality products to your doorstep.

In our travel section, Katie Jacobs takes a trip to the Gambia, where she visits Baboon Islands, a rare sanctuary for wild chimpanzees. And finally our editor-at-large, Brett Davis, takes us on a walk through Dan Sinh Market, where you can get all the useful, and plenty of useless, stuff you could ever desire.

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NEWS A Growing Thu Thiem

Four new main roads will be constructed in the Thu Thiem New Urban Area in District 2 over the course of an estimated three years. Dai Quang Minh Real Estate Investment Joint Stock Company held a ceremony last month to implement the facilitation of the project, which will consist of an arc avenue, lakeside road, a Saigon Riverside road, and a 12km flyover. The Thu Thiem urban area has struggled to see quick real estate development over the years, but the new construction project paves the way for turning it into the high-end commercial service and recreational centre that has been promised for years.

Combating Disease

Vietnam recently joined 26 other countries in Washington DC to launch a US-led global health initiative, called the Global Health Security Agenda. The initiative

EVENTS will improve the prevention, detection, and response to outbreaks of infectious diseases through mutual support among the member countries. The US Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has already assisted Vietnam’s health ministry to improve its labs for treating infectious diseases, and built an emergency operations centre to respond to epidemics or health issues.

were later featured in shows such as America’s Next Top Model, The L Word and Continuum.

She lived in Bangkok for two months, where she collaborated with Grammy-nominated pianist Geoffrey Keezer. Past notable performances also include opening for John Mayer with Mani Khaira, and playing at the Juno Awards Gala Dinner with Carly Rae Jepsen. Sofitel Saigon is located at 17 Le Duan, D1.

Mary Ancheta at Boudoir Lounge

The Last Prince

This month Sofitel Saigon Plaza welcomes Canadian vocalist and pianist Mary Ancheta, who will perform at Boudoir Lounge every Tuesday and Sunday at 8pm, through 4 May. Ancheta taught piano at the Ontario Conservatory of Music and later released her own solo pop album Live Life, followed by an electronic music album with her musical group, Transient World. Its songs

Last month, Prince Vinh Gieu, the last prince of the Nguyen Dynasty, which was the last feudal dynasty in Vietnam, passed away in the US at 90. He was the son of King Thanh Thai (1879-1954), the 10th king of the Nguyen Dynasty who was one of three kings that fought against the French colonials. Gieu returned to Vietnam for the last time in 2011 when he came to honour the occasion of his father’s death

anniversary in Hue. Gieu had five children.

Heal the World

Renaissance International School Saigon is hosting this year’s Saigon Model United Nations (MUN) from 21-23 March. Running internationally in high schools and universities, students in MUN represent different countries in a simulated United Nations. Together, the students will research and write resolutions to world problems and then debate them using real-world parliamentary procedures, forming productive talks on cooperation in biodiversity, education, the economy, and more. In this respect, MUN is a suitable training ground for future diplomats, aspiring leaders of NGOs, and those who enjoy the cut and thrust of global debate.

The event will take place at the Saigon Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC), located at 799 Nguyen Van Linh, D7.

Indulge yourself at Shang Palace.

Imagine a delightful lunch with over 50 different kinds of Hong Kong Dim Sum…

Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant 1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

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RENAISSANCE SCHOOL &

THE SAIGON MODEL UNITED NATIONS A

t SAIMUN 2014 schools from across the city, and beyond, will send the best of their students to participate. Schools involved include the host school, Renaissance International School Saigon, the International School of Ho Chi Minh City, British International School, Saigon South International School, Australian International School, Vientiane International School, American International School, Anglophone British Curriculum International School and the Korean International School.

The 3 day event will kick off at Renaissance International School Saigon, in District 7, on Friday afternoon for the formal opening. The afternoon will also see student delegates begin to start the lobbying process so crucial to the debates that begin on Saturday morning at the Saigon Exhibition and Conference Center. The debates commence on Saturday the 22nd March and continue through until Sunday.

Renaissance International School Saigon, is hosting this year’s Saigon Model United Nations (MUN) at the Saigon Exhibition and Conference Centre (SECC) from March 21st to 23rd. MUN is run internationally in High Schools and Universities whereby students, who each represent different countries in the United Nations, research and write resolutions to world problems and then go onto debate these using parliamentary procedures. This is a training ground for those future diplomats, leaders of NGOs and those who enjoy the cut and thrust of debate. The current Secretary General Ban Ki Moon was first drawn into the world of the United Nations by joining a Model United Nations conference in his early academic days. Ban Ki Moon, when addressing a recent Model United Nations conference, had this to say to delegates “I have met countless people over the course of my career whose dedication to public service could be traced back to when, at your age, they attended a conference where students debated international issues under the blue UN flag.”

Leading the conference is one of the International Baccalaureate (IB) students from Renaissance International School Saigon. Ji Hoon Yoon takes on the role of SAIMUN 2014 Secretary General and had this to say when interviewed recently about himself and the MUN in Saigon.

So how did you personally begin your involvement in MUN? I joined the programme at Renaissance, when there were only about 12 students. We attended the MUN conference at the United Nations International School Hanoi (UNIS).

Has the Renaissance MUN developed since you first joined?

Every year we run one training MUN for internal students, an invitational MUN (RENMUN) where we host other schools from Saigon, we also attend UNIS MUN and The Hague International MUN (THIMUN) held in Singapore which is the largest and most prestigious MUN in the region. I think we might have one of the strongest MUN programmes in the city.

What do you do in MUN? Last year with two of my fellow classmates, Ye Lim Yu and Phuong Hoang, we led the MUN programme in our school which involved training new students, writing resolutions, preparing

them for debates and helping to lead them at overseas conferences.

This year Ye Lim, Phuong and I all hold senior leadership positions at SAIMUN. If I want to know more about SAIMUN 2014 where can I get further information?

You could always drop by our school at 74 Nguyen Thi Thap and ask for me or you could go directly to the SAIMUN website http://saigon-mun.weebly.com/ HOSTED BY

German International School Rebrands to European International School

presents

SSION ADMaIble at E E R F ts avail Ticke S Reception the AI

A rendition of the classic hit!

The German International School (GIS) announced it has adopted the European International School (EIS) as its new registered brand name at a rebranding celebration at the Opera House last month. It has also unveiled a new logo and adopted “Educating Global Citizens” as its ethos and slogan.

“The rebranding consolidates the school’s vision and strategy,” EIS general director Michael Osswald says. “It reflects our heritage and the successful evolution of the school towards a truly international school with English as the main language of instruction and a diverse student and faculty body.” Established in 2009, the school relocated from Tan Binh District to Thao Dien, D2 in 2012. EIS currently operates classes from toddler to grade 9 and will add grade 10 next school year. Visit Eishcmc.com for details about the school.

Marlborough College information Session

A mother. A daughter. Three possible dads.

And a trip down the aisle you'll never forget!!

The Broadway classic reinvented by students of the Australian International School

Thursday 20 – Friday 21 March 2014 at 6.30pm Australian International School 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu Ward | District 2 | HCMC | Vietnam Thank you to our generous sponsors:

[Mamma Mia] Asia Life half page VERTICAL 86x240mm MAR2014.indd 1

Marlborough College is a British boarding and day school located at the southern tip of Malaysia, 10 minutes from the border with Singapore. It is the international campus of the college of the same name based in Wiltshire, England. The headmaster and director of admissions will be visiting Ho Chi Minh City from 8 to 11 March to meet parents who are interested in sending their children to the school, and will also be holding a special information session at the Park Hyatt on Sunday 9 March. For further information and to register for the information visit Marlboroughcollege.my.

2/17/14 9:06 AM

Saigon Cyclo Challenge 2014

Bring the family down to the Crescent in District 7 for the 14th annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge, which will take place on 9 March from 8am to 12pm. This year’s event is expected to attract 3,000 people and will appear on more than 60 media channels nationwide. The Saigon Cyclo Challenge, a sports event/family outing run by Saigon Children's Charity, raises much-needed funds for disadvantaged children. Last year, the event raised nearly $30,000. Visit Saigonchildren.com for details.

New Level of Comfort

Somerset West Lake Hanoi serviced apartments is now offering a newly refurbished 77-square-metre One Bedroom Premier to its range of 90 spacious apartments. The One Bedroom Premier is a limited offer only, and is equipped with an LED television, iPad and iPod dock, home entertainment, and fully equipped kitchen available for booking.

Residents will receive a special welcome gift, consisting of a VND 500,000 supermarket gift certificate for those who book through 15 March. Somerset West Lake Hanoi is located within easy access of main attractions in the city, and is ideal for corporate housing for international executives and families on project assignment or relocation. For enquiries or booking, email enquiry.hanoi@the-ascott.com.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Deep in the Heart of SXSW Since 1987, South by Southwest (SXSW) in Austin, Texas, has been a time-honoured music festival. This year, there are more than 2,200 regional, national and international acts scheduled for the festival, which runs 11-16 March. But SXSW Film (7-15 March) and the 21st SXSW Interactive (7-11 March) will also host sessions that won’t disappoint. Look forward to the world premiere of Jon Favreau’s Chef, starring Dustin Hoffman, Sofia Vergara, and Scarlett Johansson, at SXSW Film. At SXSW Interactive, WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange will appear via satellite video for an exclusive interview. And from 10-14 March, Jimmy Kimmel Live! will film the show at SXSW. Register or check out the full range of events at Sxsw.com. Photo by Tye Truitt.

Rumble in the Jungle Synths, beats, and chopped vocals will jumpstart the third Future Music Festival Asia (themed ‘safari’) in Malaysia, 13-15 March. The electronic dance festival is the only Southeast Asian counterpart to the popular Australian festival, which sold out in Sydney and Melbourne last year. At Mines Wonderland theme park in Kuala Lumpur, Deadmau5 will launch an opening party the first day. On the 14th, DJ Armin Van Buure will present a line-up of DJ legends in “A State of Trance 650: New Horizons”. The final day concludes with main acts from artists like Baauer (‘Harlem Shake’) and Macklemore & Ryan Lewis (‘Same Love’). Purchase tickets at Futuremusicfestival.asia.

The Spirit Within In Indonesia, Balinese Hindus practise tri hita karana, or the harmony of spiritual, social, and natural environments.

It is the premise for Ubud’s BaliSpirit Festival, a five-day exercise in yoga, dance, healing and world music held 19-23 March. Last year it attracted 6,000 guests from 50 countries who came for workshops in yoga (such as Hatha and Vinyasa Flow), dance (such as Mandala, Javanese, and West African), and meditation. Merging Bali’s traditional and contemporary music, the ‘One World One Stage’ concert series will take place each night at Agung Rai Museum of Art’s open stage. More information and pricing at Balispiritfestival.com.

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Street Smart:

AN

DUONG

VUONG

Ruben Luong heads into District 5 to discover Chinese-influenced treats.

An Duong Vuong is one of the main streets leading into District 5 that parallels, converges with and eventually bisects Hung Vuong and Tran Phu, providing another alternate route that connects the Chinese neighbourhood of Cho Lon to the inner city districts.

Nowadays, Vietnamese car owners bring their customised minivans and SUVs to one of many car shops along An Duong Vuong, where scraps of car window vinyls, car seats, tyres and other car accessories occasionally litter the entire sidewalk. Farther out from all the action and messy modernity, however, An Duong Vuong reveals the longstanding, deeply rooted Chinese culture among Vietnamese, with shops and areas worth leaving downtown for.

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Tram Anh

Cho Bau Sen

56 An Duong Vuong

Hem 138/26

Dark wooden cabinets at Tram Anh tea and coffee exhibit oriental bags of perhaps every kind of traditional tea sacred to Vietnam: jasmine, lotus, chloranthus plant, chrysanthemum, artichoke, oolong, pandan leaf green tea, or gohyah (bitter melon). Tram Anh sells them for retail or wholesale (since 1988), ranging from as little as VND 23,000 for a 100 gram bundle of lotus tea to VND 346,000 for a 300 gram box of oolong, but prices also depend on the variety. A perfect sampler is one of the shop’s convenient wooden tea chests, which combines eight kinds of teas containing five teabags each for VND 105,000, or 16 teabags each for VND 368,000.

The mood of An Duong Vuong changes when you enter the alley of Cho Bau Sen. Most of the locals out on the main street are consumed with repairing motorbikes or making seat customisations to cars in their shops, generally disconnected to all other means of interaction. But locals in the alley are laid-back and easier to approach under the quiet shade of tarpaulins. It’s easy to strike up a conversation with the market ladies if you know even a little bit of Vietnamese, or want to practise speaking it. Towards the centre of the alley, rehydrate with a cold glass of che dau xanh, a dessert made from mung beans and a type of kelp (VND 6,000-7,000). Then wander towards the end of the alley (it’s not very long), where you may make a few new friends along the way.

Banh Cam, Banh Dua, Banh Trung Dessert Man

Bo Bia Lady

Near Yet Kieu and An Dong Market

Corner of An Duong Vuong and Nguyen Van Cu

Outside the western perimetre of An Dong Market, there are delicious finds you’ll be inspired to eat in one visit, such as banh mi cha ca (fish cake baguette) from a nearby stall, mang cut (mangosteen) or mang cau (soursop) from the outdoor market afterwards.

But most appetising are the Vietnamese pastries influenced by the Chinese, sold by a man sitting outside on a small stool with two plastic-wrapped platters placed close to the ground. He serves banh cam (fried sesame balls stuffed with mung bean), banh dua (tart with toasted coconut shavings) and banh trung (egg tart), which range from VND 10,000-13,000.

Across the Ho Chi Minh City Pedagogical University on An Duong Vuong, it makes sense that there would be a group of hawkers lined up with stalls to serve hungry students and passersby in the afternoons. One stall to frequent is the bo bia lady (you’ll see her stall with the sign), who wraps bite-sized spring rolls with Vietnamese jicama, carrot, Chinese sausage, egg and dried shrimp in rice paper.

It’s a lesser-known roll compared to the popular goi cuon, which incorporates shrimp, noodles, fresh mint or garlic chives. Bo bia is far more savoury, with a mouthful of flavours and more interesting textures. It’s also incredibly cheap, costing VND 3,000 per roll.

Cong Vien Van Lang

Sun Yeong Wai

Beginning of An Duong Vuong and Hung Vuong

494 An Duong Vuong

Towards the side entrance of Van Lang park, near one of several Chinese-style gazebo cafes where you can have a coffee or other drink, there’s a bap nuong lady that sells grilled corn for VND 13,000 per ear during the day. Buy one and head into the park to people watch. It’s not overly lush or grand, but many Vietnamese elderly tend to relax here, so there are rare, quiet moments that aren’t accessible in the crowded inner districts of the city. It also has an interesting shape, forming a gradual ‘V’ where An Duong Vuong narrows in with Hung Vuong to become Hong Bang Street. Bring a camera to capture some of the enduring architecture nearby, such as the Church of St Joan of Arc (built in 1922).

Outside Sun Yeong Wai’s storefront are the hanging roasted ducks prevalent among most Chinese-Vietnamese establishments that specialise in the tasty and time-honoured poultry. The open entrance shophouse begins with the bottom-floor kitchen, where the display of roasted ducks takes up more space in the room than actual seating, so much so that it is noticeable from across the street. There’s an upstairs dining space, where parties might share a whole Sun Yeong Wai signature roast duck for VND 400,000, a half portion for VND 210,000, or a leg for VND 120,000. The restaurant also serves an affordable selection of rice and char siew, roast chicken, roast duck and fried vegetable dishes ranging VND 60,000-120,000.

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Get directions

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CM

MY

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CMY

K

Michel Roux Michel Roux is a legend in the culinary world. He recently sat down at his new French fine-dining restaurant, La Maison 1888, in the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsular Resort to speak to AsiaLIFE about food, Vietnam and the Roux family’s enduring legacy.

Photo by Christian Berg.

Your restaurant serves classic French cuisine, do you have to import many ingredients?

How much local produce are you able to incorporate?

I cook French cooking.

Classical, no. I would say modern. Not eclectic, but certainly modern. … Our sauces are much lighter than they used to be. They are more than just sauces. Our cooking is a light way of cooking.

We steam, low temperature cooking, and so on and so forth. We do have a modern approach to French cooking.

That’s my philosophy.

Yes it is French, so what do I do about the ingredients?

It’s true that some ingredients are more difficult to find than others. For example, the meat and poultry are difficult. … I’ve been spending a couple of days with my chef just looking at a lot of vegetables, some fish, and different ways of cooking them. … And I found at least five different vegetables that I’m going to use in the near future.

You have extremely high standards for your restaurants.

How do you maintain that when you are not always on site?

The way to keep the quality of the food standard if I’m not there is easy. It’s easy because the people I put in place, who

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are in charge, are my children … they grow with me for five years or more. They know that there is no short cut, not to play with me, and that the standard must remain. And they’re doing beautifully well. I come [to Vietnam] about four times a year and spend about seven days to 10 days.

The other thing I do is Skype.

I’m with them on Skype at least once or twice a week. I couldn’t do it without seeing them, and them seeing me. So Skype is a wonderful way of talking to people. They can even show me some of the dishes they are making.

What sort of experience are you trying to create at Maison 1888 and what feeling would you like people to leave with after eating here?

What I like them to think when they leave here is that it’s a small island; it’s a little piece of France with the best French cooking. Which is not easy, believe me. … You’ve got to do it at a certain speed when you’ve got experience, and you can’t lie. And it’s got to be easy to understand. My kind of food, you look at the plate and you know what it is. … The owner [of the resort] wanted the best of the French. … We are absolutely giving our best shot.

Have you had a chance to experience much of the local food during you trips to Vietnam?

One of the reasons I came to this country was not only to cook, but to eat. And what am I going to eat? I eat Vietnamese food. I love it. Last night, one of my young Vietnamese chefs cooked me a dish, just for me, to make me happy. That’s what I call beauty. Because I love eating food of the country where I work or where I visit. … Cooking French food is normal — it’s in my genes, I’ve learned about it, I love it.

But eating — please, give me a break. I came to Vietnam to eat Vietnamese food.

Your family has an incredible history in food — your grandfather and father had charcuterie businesses, you and your brother and each of your sons are Michelin starred chefs, and your nephew Michel Roux Jr’s daughter is now following in the family footsteps. What does the history of dedication to food in your family mean to you?

In the morning when I wake up, I know already what I’m going to eat for lunch. And I know that if I’m travelling, after a couple of days, I’ve got to go to the kitchen where I’m staying and I’ve got to cook

something. Even a simple dish.

I need it, I need it so badly.

I believe that’s what’s happening in the family.

My brothers love cooking.

Michel loves cooking, and his daughter, the same. My son loves it. And my grandson, who is three and a half years old, just had his chef jacket made. You wouldn’t believe it, on a Saturday morning … he goes to a children’s cooking class and partakes. He brought back something and gave it to me, to his granddad, to taste.

Three and a half years old!

Gordon Ramsay famously came here a few years ago for a TV program to try to — in his words — master Vietnamese cuisine in seven days. Do you think it is ever possible, as an outsider, to master another culture’s cuisine?

Gordon Ramsay was one of my apprentices, he worked two years for me. And maybe he’s talking too much and not doing enough in life now. In life, you should never say you can master the cooking of a country in seven days. … You can get the flair, you can get the idea, you can learn a few dishes, of course you can. … No way anyone can master the cooking from any country in the world in seven days.

"

"

One of the reasons I came to this country was not only to cook, but to eat. And what am I going to eat? I eat Vietnamese food. I love it.

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RĂŠhahn Croquevielle is a French photographer with a passion for travelling and meeting people. After visiting more than 30 countries, he eventually settled in Hoi An, where he has lived for the past two years. Living in Hoi An has finally given him the opportunity to go out, meet and see Vietnam and photograph its people and landscapes. Vietnam, Mosaic of Contrasts, his first book, is a collection of 150 of these portraits and landscape photos and is available at Rehahnphotographer.com. asialife HCMC 17

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A Greener Saigon Ho Chi Minh City has a pollution problem.

From the growing smog — Vietnam ranked among the top 10 countries with the worst air pollution in the 2012 Environmental Performance Index — to the poisoning of its waterways, the city faces tough decisions as it continues to modernise. But there are those who are looking at the issues and coming up with solutions, some simple, some creative, that they hope will lead to a greener future for the city and the country. By Lien Hoang and Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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itter on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City is nothing new. But at a small park in District 7, trash has taken a new form. Here, plastic bottles have been made into a ship that sits in a small pool of water. Other bottles have been cut and shaped into colourful flowers and fastened to tree branches. Glass bottles, along with motorbike and bicycle rims, are now chairs, while old tyres have become swings and colourful, cartoon-like characters for kids to play on — and yet more tyres and computer keys form life-sized horses.

This little park on Nguyen Luong Bang Street may be modest, but it shows that there is growing interest in tackling the many environmental problems facing the city. Now, more than ever, officials, local businesses and individuals are beginning to see that Vietnam’s development is coming at a cost and they are turning to sustainable solutions to ensure Vietnam has a bright future.

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Building for the future Who knew milk cartons could provide shelter from the elements? Apparently, the Dong Tien packaging and paper company knew this, because it now produces roofs using the recycled cartons. If that conjures up images of something unstable and ramshackle, the reality is that the roofs look the same as the typical metal variety: thick and wavy.

Company chairman Hoang Trung Son explained in an interview at his office in Binh Thanh District that Dong Tien starts by buying the milk cartons after their traditional use has been exhausted.

“If we don’t recycle the boxes, the only two solutions are to bury or burn them,” Son says, after handing over his light-brown business card, which was made of, that’s right, recycled paper. Those solutions he

Who knew milk cartons could provide shelter from the elements? considers wasteful.

Besides the so many ad hoc collectors on the street, Dong Tien buys the material from kindergartens and day care centres, an obvious choice with their many children drinking from milk cartons. Those cartons are then washed, dried, and pressed at a factory in neighbouring Binh Duong province. Next, the combination is mixed with aluminum, yielding a silver finish with rainbow blotches from the milk packaging.

Son says he travelled to Thailand, Indonesia and India, where he sought advice on how to produce the recycled roofs. Samples of these roofs now clutter his office. Near the entrance is a display shaped like a tree, bearing jars of powder and recycled paper, both made from the milk containers. Dong Tien, which traditionally made packaging material for industrial clients, also turns the cartons into paper bags.

As for the roofs, Dong Tien tends to serve farms and factories.

“When we introduced it, people were really surprised and excited,” Son says. At

the same time, customers worried that the roofs would be more flimsy than what they were used to. In response, the company produced marketing materials that show a car can drive over the roof without damaging it. Son also says the roofs do a better job of keeping out heat and noise.

The chairman says his priority is environmental preservation, and profits would come later. He’s concerned about public awareness, wishing policymakers would do more to promote conservation in general.

Dong Tien isn’t the only company focusing on green construction. A growing number of buildings around the country are flaunting their environmentally friendly credentials.

Take President Place on Ho Chi Minh City’s Nguyen Du Street, for instance. This office building set the standard last year when it became the city’s first LEEDcertified office building. LEED is a system designed by the US Green Building Council to determine how environmentally friendly buildings are. But the office building is meant for high-paying occupants, such as Canon

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With the widespread, cheap availability of motorbikes and fuel, it can be hard to convince Vietnamese or foreigners to use the bus. and Starbucks.

Still, there is an increasing amount of projects around the city that are meant for the average person. Vo Trong Nghia and his namesake architectural firm first started gaining publicity in 2012 with his ‘stacking green houses’. These homes were designed as a typical Vietnamese tube house, but use various techniques — such as shade from trees and natural materials that reflect heat — to keep the building cool and energy efficient. One of the major upsides to these houses is the $150,000 price tag, which is only slightly more expensive than the average Vietnamese home of the same size.

Nghia has gone on to develop numerous projects throughout Ho Chi Minh City and the country and has been nominated for several architectural awards. “ I want to have as much green on the earth as we can, everywhere we can,” he told AsiaLIFE.

Moving forward The government is also catching on to the green movement. Last year, then-Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Thien Nhan warned of the dangers of environmental pollution and said it must be stopped. In April, the prime minister approved a plan to use public awareness as a way to reduce the number of plastic bags in the country by 60 percent, Viet Nam News reported. Like many goals the

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country sets for itself, this is supposed to happen by 2020.

Whether they reach their target may not be certain, but now, among Ho Chi Minh City’s many public service announcements, city planners have put up more recent billboards that call on residents to do their part by taking the bus. Employees at the main Ben Thanh bus station near the market give away free bus maps, which show the fleet’s wide network extending as far as Dong Nai province.

With the widespread, cheap availability of motorbikes and fuel, it can be hard to convince Vietnamese or foreigners to use the bus, unless they care about reducing pollution. Buses can be less convenient for those who don’t want to make transfers or walk the few extra blocks between their stops and their final destination. But they do a far better job of guarding against rain and sun, most of them providing air conditioning. Motorbikes expose commuters more directly to accidents and pollution.

Even for those who own motorbikes, buses can be an occasional option. When going long distances from one end of town to another, buses are cheaper (starting at VND 5,000 a ticket) and more comfortable than sitting on a motorbike for an hour.

“To save the situation of air pollution, I think public transport is key,” says Akira Hosomi, the Vietnam representative at Japan International Consultants for Transportation.

Hosomi is based in Ho Chi Minh City,

“

Be cool

I feel that having the metro system is kind

modernisation.

“

of the symbol of

Akira Hosomi, Vietnam representative at Japan International Consultants for Transportation where he’s working with the government to build a metro. Vietnam has discussed the need for the train system, both here and up in Hanoi, for more than a decade, but finally has broken ground on construction.

As with buses, public officials face an uphill battle convincing commuters to forgo their motorbikes for subways. But trains do have an advantage over buses: they represent progress for an industrialised country.

“I feel that having the metro system is kind of the symbol of modernisation,” Hosomi says. “So all the developed countries have such systems, specifically the Asian countries. So I believe that after completion of the metro system — not completion, but the construction of even part of the line, I think Vietnamese people will feel more confidence about the development of the city.”

Besides public transit, people with flexible hours can schedule their drives outside of rush hour, when pollution is at its worst.

And soon, it looks like residents will be able to rent bicycles to see if they like commuting that way. VietNamNet reported in February that five cities, including Ho Chi Minh City, will have a pilot program that lets customers pay as little as VND 4,000 an hour to use the bikes. This has been tried around the world, from Sacramento to Paris, and gives both locals and tourists a liberalising option for transportation. And when it comes to bicycles, transport doesn’t get much more environmentally friendly than that.

It’s a daily experience for urbanites in Ho Chi Minh City: jostling with thousands of motorbikes, cars and buses during rush hour, and ending up at home sweaty and light-headed after inhaling a scary amount of exhaust.

And what is the first thing many of us do when we walk inside? Reach for the air conditioner remote. For westerners, especially those living in warm climates, air conditioners are no longer thought of as a luxury item, but rather a necessity. And it seems upwardly mobile Vietnamese are beginning to follow suite. Air conditioning sales around the country are skyrocketing, consistently increasing year-to-year, according to market research group GFK Vietnam.

As global temperatures continue to rise, so too does the amount of energy — most of which comes from fossil fuels — required to run all of these units. According to estimates from Stan Cox, author of Losing Our Cool: Uncomfortable Truths About Our Air-Conditioned World, global consumption of energy due to air conditioners could increase tenfold by 2050. Much of that increase will come from the developing world, especially Asia.

Since many of us would rather harm the environment than sweat in our homes, here are some tips from the US Department of Energy to keep the damage to a minimum: • Set your thermostat at as high a temperature as comfortably possible. The smaller the difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the less energy will be used.

• Avoid setting your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner, since it will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling.

• Consider using an interior fan along with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air through your home without greatly increasing your power use.

• Avoid placing appliances that give off heat such as lamps or TVs near a thermostat.

asialife HCMC 25

Kickin' it An obsession with shoes among young Vietnamese ‘sneakerheads’ is paving the way for a local subculture, and a means to keep it friendly and wholesome. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Before I know it, Nam Pham, 27, is smelling the bottom sole of his Air Jordan 1, clutching the iconic shoe close to his face, his eyes fervent.

“You have to sniff it like this to be a professional,” he advises me.

“The authentic ones have a really good smell.”

We’re surrounded by more than 200 other sneakers of various models, like Nike Hyperdunks, Nike SB, Kobe 8 Systems, and LeBron 9 Lows, which Pham declares are all original. I take his word and watch him proceed to sniff in half-jest. On any given day, sneaker collectors like Pham might take this more seriously, but he projects nothing but downto-earth verve, and the way he speaks is as colourful and buoyant as the sneakers in the room.

“This is the shoe that inspires me a lot,” he explains, pointing to the Air Jordan 1. It is the first Nike sneaker model for Michael Jordan, who wore them in red and black when they were released in 1985. Pham owns the black and royal blue colourway.

“Every time I look at the shoe, I want to do something bigger,” he says. “I want to be a hustler.”

He is certainly not the only one. Pham and his friends, Phi Nguyen, 30, and Nam Quan, 24, are the founders of a request-only Facebook page named Than Kinh Giay (sneakerhead), which now has more than 21,000 members who sell, trade and buy coveted kicks every hour, and perhaps every minute, in Vietnam. To keep everyone happy, they require sellers to be upfront about whether their sneakers are real or fake.

But in order to truly keep a healthy sneakerhead culture, the three of them also developed their own online sneakerhead magazine, Giaydebang.vn, to promote a levelheaded attitude about collecting. In addition to a YouTube channel, five writers post informative tips or history and fashion-related sneaker ar26 26 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC

ticles daily to educate Vietnamese that buying, trading, or selling shoes is not about quantity, but quality.

“Some guys in our sneakerhead culture have a lot of fucking shoes, like 300 pairs, but just three friends understand what I’m saying,” Pham says. “And then some guys just have three shoes, but have 300 friends.”

On the surface, all sneakerheads want to look athletic or fashionable. But the sneakers, embodiments of all-stars or celebs, are hyped up in the global market when shoe companies like Nike or Adidas release limited edition sneakers and distribute a small quota to each store branch.

Pham says the Air Jordan 1, for

"'' It’'s just like Wall Street. People buy sneakers and keep them until the stock value goes up, and then they sell”.'' example, might retail for $140, but market hype raises its value upwards of $600.

It can be a cutthroat culture around the world, as some sneakerheads will go through vigorous means to obtain a valuable sneaker for status or to make a potential profit, such as camping out in front of stores or bidding on eBay with other sneakerheads across continents.

“It’s just like Wall Street,” Nguyen says. “People buy sneakers and keep them until the stock value goes up, and then they sell.”

But for now at least, there’s no indication that Than Kinh Giay is fostering this kind of “game”, as Pham consistently calls it. Most commerce remains lifestyle or

fashion-oriented here, much like at Saigon Skateshop, located in the backpacker area along De Tham, where owner Nguyen Quoc Thai, 28, sells skateboarder brands such as Vans, Lakai, Circa and Emerica.

“A pair of shoes usually lasts two or three months, maybe one if you skate a lot,” Thai says.

“Most skaters usually wear the same shoes until they are worn or destroyed. And usually the same colours come out every year, so some skaters will buy it again because there aren’t too many selections.”

Thai says he sells about 20 or 30 pairs a month, but some skateboarders also don’t have enough money to buy regularly, so it’s common to trade or sell old (but otherwise high-status) namebrands for cheap, and then put the money towards buying newer pairs. Such is the fate of the popular Nike SB Stefan Janoski (VND 1.8 million at the shop), which is named after the famed American skateboarder and artist.

Skateboarders and other sneakerheads are also approached by the Adidas factory, who scout for people on the street to wear prototypes of select sneakers for around one or two weeks.

Afterwards, they’re required to evaluate or write reviews of the shoes’ design.

Still, ultimately it’s free, and puts sneakerheads in control of customising sneakers that will continue to be designed to fit into their respective sport or fashion categories, and also help them set an impression on their own turfs.

“Someone once told me, if you have a good shoe, you will look good,” Pham says. “And if you look good, you will go to good places. And if you go to good places, you meet good people.

And when you meet good people, then you have a good chance to have a good life. It’s not about having a lot of shoes, but having a good life.”

asialife asialife HCMC HCMC 27 27

28 28 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC

One local group provides food for hospital patients and homeless Vietnamese — sometimes by delivering leftovers from a restaurant. By Lien Hoang. Photo by Fred Wissink. meats, burgers, soup, brownies, goi cuon and other dishes.

Deetz says he hopes other establishments with large-scale operations will follow suit.

“I think the hotels and buffets are one of the biggest untapped sources of foods that could go to the poor,” he says. It has long bothered him that in the food industry, “there’s a tremendous amount of food wasted.”

In addition to homeless people and the working poor (such as xe om drivers and lottery ticket sellers), 6789 gives the food to hospital patients

“

Sometimes people are hurt if you tell them

“

It’s one of the biggest conundrums of the 21st century: the world produces more than enough food to feed everyone, but millions go hungry. One can blame corruption, speculative trading of commodities like rice and soy, or mismanagement of distribution. But at the grassroots level, one Vietnamese charity is tackling a more layman’s cause: waste.

A nonprofit group called 6789 is working with Black Cat restaurant to give its leftovers to some of Ho Chi Minh City’s poorer residents. The charity had already had a history of gathering fresh food donations to prepare and give out its own meals. But now it also could collect ready-made dishes.

“When people give us vegetables and potatoes and such, it’s not ready [to be eaten],” says Dang Quoc Binh, who founded 6789 and named it after the decades in which members were born. “So when we’re getting it from a restaurant, it’s convenient, it saves us the time of cooking it.”

The group says that maintaining dignity is as important as feeding the hungry. While the food from Black Cat is as clean and intact as what it serves customers, recipients could take offense and feel they are merely getting what others do not want.

“Sometimes people are hurt if you tell them these are leftovers,” 6789 adviser Nguyen Hong Ngoc says. “So we just give the food to them, make sure it’s hot.”

Here’s how it works: after Black Cat finishes a catering gig, it sometimes has leftovers that were never served because it made too much food. Owner Geoffrey Deetz then refrigerates the remainders and calls 6789. They come the next day for pick-up, take the food back to Binh’s place to divide it up, and then hand it out. There can be anywhere from 50 to 150 servings’ worth of salads, BBQ

these are leftovers.

who can’t afford meals during their stays.

Roger Ferrel, who introduced 6789 to Black Cat, said patients depend on their families for food.

“If you go to FV hospital, they feed you, three meals a day,” says Ferrel, president of Kids First, which helps the disabled. “But if you go to a Vietnamese hospital, they don’t feed you.”

He adds, “Some of these family members are from far away, so they don’t have the facilities to cook for their family or for themselves, and they can’t afford to buy food. So 6789 has filled the gap.”

The charity has a list of 200 student volunteers it calls on to help distribute the food every Sunday evening. They wear black-and-orange 6789 T-shirts and take the food to different streets around Ho Chi Minh City. They choose evening, when they know the city’s lowest-income residents will be returning home from work.

Binh says feeding the hungry

is just one part of his group’s mission. The other is to inspire a culture of giving among young Vietnamese, a culture he hopes will benefit future generations and other areas of social need.

He has a network of nearly 2,000 online members now, many of them students who received meals and lodging from 6789 when they came into the city for university testing.

Ngoc says teaching the students is part of 6789’s activities.

“We tell the volunteers, when you give out food, you have to smile, use both hands, and say, ‘Chuc ngon mieng,’” or bon appetit, she says.

On a recent Sunday morning, about 20 members of 6789 met on the southern edge of District 1, formed smaller groups, and then dispersed in search of bottles and cardboard they could recycle for money. For meals not provided by Black Cat, 6789 relies on this money and cash donations to buy and cook food. On this morning, they visited small businesses like convenience shops to collect recyclables, handing out slips of paper to explain their activities and give contact details in case people wanted to donate later.

As they walked along, some of the students would stop here and there to pick up litter.

The group also takes donations at markets, particularly food that goes into the typical meal of rice, meat, vegetables and soup. If people want to give clothing or other in-kind donations, 6789 redistributes those, as well.

To make a real dent on world hunger requires the competence of broad-minded policymakers.

But in the meantime, 6789 is full of ordinary people who aren’t waiting for leaders to act.

The group 6789 can be reached at hoithiennguyen6789@yahoo.com. vn or quocbinh423@gmail.com. Its website is Hoi6789.vicongdong. vn. asialife HCMC 29

The Ultimate

Man

Cave

Taking the opportunity to get in touch with his inner 'bloke', Brett Davis visits the big boys' playground that is Dan Sinh Market.

I do like the odd home improvement project. I've always considered myself fairly handy, able to fix things around the house or knock up a set of shelves. I even made a sweet coffee table once.

My old man was chiefly responsible for this modest ability.

He showed me from a young age how to hold a drill and use a power saw and the importance of having the necessary kit around the house to do the job.

Unfortunately, I have not done much of the home handyman thing in recent years. I think for many expats it's often easier and cheaper to hire someone in to do the job, and the idea of buying a lot of gear during what for many will be a temporary stay is not all that appealing.

After four years in Vietnam though, I started to feel like I 30 30 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC

was neglecting my man-of-thehouse duties. So, I started to gather together a small collection of tools that come in handy around the house: some screwdrivers, pliers and wrenches.

And they do because, well, things fall apart and it's not always easy to get the landlord around to fix them up.

Recently, when my wife asked me (for a month or six) to hang some pictures, and then a colleague (who may or may not have been the publisher of this magazine) said I could borrow a power drill but never remembered to bring it in to the office, it seemed like a good opportunity to invest in a more serious piece of kit (and probably save my marriage).

Now I'm not much for shopping generally, but I could spend hours wandering around

the mega-hardware stores in Australia. But without these cathedrals of gear and gadgets in Saigon, I headed for the local equivalent: Dan Sinh Market.

It's my favourite market in town, and it’s definitely a good thing I don't go often as I don't think my income could cover all the things I'd like. The market fronts onto Yersin Street in District 1. The surrounding streets, up to Calmette, are all teeming with shops selling everything from paint to pipes, tools and electrical gear, making it a kind of hardware neighbourhood.

But it’s the bowels of Dan Sinh, with its hundreds of small shops and dimly-lit, narrow aisles, that are most interesting.

Want an industrial air compressor? Got it. Fancy a chain saw?

No problem. Need three screws?

Choose from among 10,000. It's

that sort of place. When AsiaLIFE's photo editor wanted old electronics like transistor radios and voltameters and flexible metal tubing to build robots for a photo project, where did he go? You guessed it.

I don't want to be guilty of perpetuating gender stereotypes about how only guys are into tools, building stuff and that sort of thing. Although clearly that's what I've been doing throughout the last 400 words or so. Of course there are women out there who love nothing better than getting their hands on a wood plane and getting into some serious timber shaping action. It's just that generally these things split largely on gender lines, and as a bloke there is something that always feels kind of essentially 'blokey' when you're doing a bit of tool

And old typewriters — Christ, I love old typewriters. They don't even have to work, I just like the way they look sitting on a shelf.

Photos by Brett Davis

work. Read that last sentence however you like.

The other great appeal of Dan Sinh Market is in the nonhardware items. It is a treasure trove of old junk and military artifacts. Which, understandably enough, is why it is sometimes referred to as the 'old military market', with its battered helmets, GI-issue torches, old ammunition boxes and much more.

Then there's the just plain old stuff: coins, lamps, radios, cameras, watches and old photographs (dating from the ‘40s or ‘50s judging by the clothes and hair styles). And old typewriters — Christ, I love old typewriters.

They don't even have to work, I just like the way they look sitting on a shelf.

Useless stuff, for the most part, but I always want it

nonetheless. Here is a test to determine if something at Dan Sinh falls into the 'useless bloke stuff' category. Go there with your wife or significant other and point to such an item and say you want to buy it. If the response is "What do you want that for?" then you know you are in the dropzone.

On this recent mission I was on my own, but managed to tear myself away from the tempting matter on display at these stalls and keep focused on the task at hand. I got my 13-volt Bosch GSB Professional power drill (thought you guys would want to know) and the other bits and pieces necessary to hang the requested pictures.

Now, just have to get around to doing it. But in the meantime, it feels really good to own a drill again. asialife HCMC 31

The 21st-century

supermarket

Expats are taking advantage of new online supermarkets, like Suma.vn and Delishop.vn, for groceries and convenience. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

It was only a few months ago that some happy expats were able to add Vegemite to their carts on Suma.vn, one of Saigon’s few online supermarkets. The notoriously malty Australian spread was available on the site within 24 hours after someone requested it.

Such convenience is the hallmark of Suma.vn, which softlaunched last November, and other online supermarkets, like Delishop.vn, which launched last December. Despite groceries being a low margin business with heavy logistics and perishable goods, both are embracing the challenge of being online and selling groceries.

“There aren’t that many supermarkets here, so right now we can create that habit of people shopping online,” says Swedish expat Anders Palm, 29, the e-commerce manager at Vietnam Communications Corporation (VC Corp), which operates Suma.vn. “I mean, I hate going to supermarkets in Ho Chi Minh City. They are never nearby and are inconvenient for me. And I know a lot of people

32 32 asialife asialife HCMC HCMC

feel the same.”

Palm created Suma.vn with Uyen Vu, 31, the site’s operations manager, after they cofounded and developed Eat.vn, one of the first online restaurant food ordering websites in the area. It was acquired by VC Corp, which later put Palm and Nguyen in charge of developing Suma.vn.

Suma.vn stocks a variety of nostalgic items that some expats tend to covet, like Ruffles brand chips or Fruit Loops cereal. Its home page displays a selection of popular items, such as 24-can bundles of Coke (VND 202,000) and Tiger beer (VND 328,000).

Less glamorous products on the site are standard groceries, like water, detergent or toilet paper.

“Our idea with Suma was just to have a much better selection than a convenience store, but still be way more convenient than a supermarket,” Palm says.

Delishop.vn takes a different approach. At its helm is French expat Pierre-Andre Quentin, 31, a former supply chain director for Big C supermarket. There, he witnessed distributors gravitat-

ing towards suppliers with the cheapest prices, influencing suppliers to forsake quality in favour of better margins on their products.

“My shop is an answer to that,” he says. “It focuses on quality rather than low price.

On my website, you won’t find big promotions or low cost things. What you can find on Delishop is the best of what you can find in Vietnam — coffee, rice, jam and more. If you know what I know, you don’t go to supermarkets anymore. But then where do you go?”

Quentin visited producers throughout Vietnam to find quality products for Delishop. vn. So far, the site stocks 315 traceable products organised by brand, like Le Fruit juice made in Can Tho. “It takes time to find these guys,” he says. “You don’t find them in Big C or CoOp Mart.”

With their contrasting strategies, Suma.vn, an all-encompassing stocklist of imported products that operates under a mainstream corporation, and Delishop.vn, a fine grocery store

of local goods that runs as a niche business, are pioneering the local landscape for online groceries.

“Sooner or later, there are going to be more supermarkets, so it’s good for us to step in before it happens,” Palm says.

This window of opportunity requires them to execute their strategies carefully. Suma.vn delves into social media with groups and ads on Facebook.

Delishop.vn participates in free markets, where customers can sample its products for free.

However, Palm and Quentin both mentioned that funding for marketing is scarce.

Even so, they’ve had auspicious beginnings. For one, the e-commerce industry here is booming. Ordering online is no longer abnormal. Daily deal websites, like Hotdeal. vn or Kay.vn, push the idea of buying online into the minds of Vietnamese consumers. Among expats, restaurant food order websites, like Palm and Vu’s Eat.vn, see high online traffic as well.

Suma.vn and Delishop.vn

benefit greatly as small start-ups with manageable selections of goods. The teams are free to experiment or sort out their own hassles as they come. An article on the technology news website Tech in Asia last year explained that local big supermarkets have attempted to build their own online grocery systems, but their

these subcontractors. It delivers from the site’s warehouse in District 4 with free delivery for orders over VND 500,000. Suma. vn uses its own delivery fleet (the same one used for Eat.vn) with free delivery for orders over VND 1 million.

Shoppers at Delishop.vn receive their orders after two

“I hate going to supermarkets in Ho Chi Minh City. They are never nearby and are inconvenient” Suma.vn co-founder Anders Palm interfaces and logistics aren’t as easily adaptable.

Part of the challenge might have revolved around implementing an organised delivery system, which is now becoming easier. “There are third party companies now opening up doing deliveries for e-commerce websites, which would not have been possible five years ago, because there was not enough stuff to deliver,” Palm says.

Delishop.vn utilises one of

days of processing. At Suma. vn, orders require two hours for processing and can be scheduled or delivered the same day.

That’s necessary, since it stocks fresh products like meat and fruit, which Delishop.vn will also offer soon.

“In the past, people were more willing to wait a few days to get their things, which is not true anymore in e-commerce,” Palm says. “The time has come for delivering fresh products.”

asialife asialife HCMC HCMC 33 33

Taking a turn around the Philippines’ historic central island, Esther de la Cruz stops along the way to experience secret beaches, colonial relics, shark encounters and all those mangoes. Photos by Fred Wissink.

T

here are only a handful of places on the planet that can go toe-to-toe with Cebu when it comes to mangoes. The small carabao mango, to be specific. The rolling slopes of the Philippine island’s interior are studded green with mango trees, their silky fruit ripening under the tropical sun, destined for a sweet ending.

A source of great regional pride (not to mention vitamin C), Cebu’s mangoes are characteristic of the islands from which they spring: unpretentious, unrefined and bursting with vibrant pleasures.

It’s safe to say that the Spaniards weren’t in the market for mangoes when they washed up on these shores in 1565. Cebu City was singled out as Spain’s first settlement in the archipelago, thanks to its deep harbour 34 asialife HCMC

(‘sibu’ is the local word for ‘trade’) in the shelter of Mactan Island.

Mactan is a playground of five-star hotels and resorts.

Those who prefer more leisure in their leisure travel are whisked from the aging MactanCebu International Airport to combed white sand beaches, infinity pools, exclusive villas and top-notch spas where chilled calamansi juices and welcome massages await.

Over the bridge from Mactan, Cebu City is for the most part an easy-going, ramshackle port town with a few gleaming pockets of new development. The older areas are grey and dusty and dotted with the vestiges of another time, when elaborate churches and stone forts towered over the thatched huts of the native Cebuanos.

History lovers will enjoy discovering the Jesuit House on Zulueta Street. Built in 1730, the house is buried in the bowels of the functioning warehouse where it was discovered, restored and relaunched as a museum and one of the city’s best attractions, alongside Fort San Pedro and the Spanish-colonial home Casa Gorordo.

A more contemporary lodging of interest is The Henry, a true Cebu original. The 38-room boutique hotel boasts a refreshingly quirky design an eclectic lobby, Rita’s Restaurant and Scrapyard Bar, all of which easily double as one enormous photo shoot set. Spacious guestrooms are outfitted with modern comforts and total creative license. Piles of vintage luggage, oversized Viking chairs, antique doorways, smouldering

murals, curious signage and other out-of-the-box elements are sprinkled throughout the property.

The city’s top dining spots are a stone’s throw from The Henry, but travellers are best served by doing their research on restaurants in all Philippine destinations. A strong Spanish emphasis on home cooking followed by a wave of American influence makes authentic Filipino cuisine challenging to locate, leading many to mistake the widely available local fast food for the genuine article.

In Cebu City, Golden Cowrie and Lantaw serve tasty traditional recipes, while Mesa specialises in modern Filipino fare. Aside from its mangoes, Cebu is famous for roasted pig, or lechon baboy. Visit Zubuchon for a taste of what chef Anthony

Bourdain pronounced “the best pig ever”.

Despite the city’s cool bistros (Tymad), galleries (The Pink House) and watering holes (Gilt), Cebu’s true assets are outside the city and easily accessible.

Go chasing waterfalls, but skip busy Kawasan Falls for the quieter and more compelling Tumalog and Cambais falls. Take to the hiking trails of Osmena Peak. Wile away a day at the bird sanctuary on Olongo Island.

Comfortable on two wheels?

Cebu’s southern coastline is a joy to explore via motorcycle.

Tiny village after tiny village whizzes by, each a collection of tidy native homes loosely anchored near a colonial-era stone church, complete with a few wild-looking roosters and

a fat pig lolling in the sunlight.

Locals are extremely friendly.

The rustic island setting alternates with glorious views of the frothy turquoise sea, brightly painted fishing boats and limestone cliffs.

Three to five hours from Cebu City are the islands of Camotes, Bantayan, and the insider favourite — Malapascua. Any beach boredom fostered from one too many humdrum holidays will quickly evaporate at the sight of these exquisite shores.

Moalboal, three hours by car from the airport, is popular for rewarding snorkelling and sea turtle sightings. Near Moalboal, divers orbit Pescador Island hoping to witness its famous sardine run and thrilling sideshow: thresher sharks hunting in the wild.

Recently, whale sharks have

been spotted near Pescador, but it’s the village of Tan-Awan in Oslob that guarantees daily encounters with these breathtaking creatures, known in the

a whale shark’s mouth. The ideal time to encounter Oslob’s whale sharks is around 6am, with the first boat of visitors on a weekday.

There’s very little danger of hapless tourists being accidentally sucked into a whale shark’s mouth.

Philippines as butanding. Luckily, these filter-feeding fish follow a preferred diet of plankton and chum, meaning there’s very little danger of hapless tourists being accidentally sucked into

After your close up with the whale sharks, clamber onshore, order a cold San Miguel with some grilled fish or a fresh mango, and let Cebu’s simple beauty sink in. asialife HCMC 35

Along the River Gambia With the advent of responsible tourism, Katie Jacobs visits one of the few places in the world where tourists can see wild chimpanzees. Photos by Sylvain Lequere.

I

f it weren’t for the facial hair and long arms, I could have sworn the creatures peering out at me from the forest were human. The wild chimpanzees gave me wary looks of curiosity and slight pity that I, too, wasn’t able to stuff an entire mango into my mouth. The sun was setting on our evening boat ride through the River Gambia National Park. It’s nearly 300km inland from Banjul, the coastal capital of the Gambia, a tiny west African country embedded within Senegal except for 40km of coastline.

Although a small number of tourists visit the Gambia every winter to enjoy the beach resorts along the Atlantic coast, the country is fairly 36 asialife HCMC

unknown. But eco-lodges are now promoting responsible tourism with retreats where you can eat local food, learn about the culture, and experience the natural beauty of the coast, river and forest.

Baboon Islands, in the River Gambia National Park, not only provides these services, but is also one of the few places in the world to see chimpanzees in the wild.

The park was established in 1978, and in 1979 the chimpanzee rehabilitation project was founded on the five-island archipelago in the river. Along with elephants, chimpanzees became extinct in the Gambia in the early 20th century. The project aimed to reintroduce chimpanzees to the

wild by rehabilitating animals that had been confiscated from illegal trade and captivity.

Today, they live and breed on the islands with minimal human contact. Visitors can view these amazing creatures from the boat, but only authorised park workers are allowed on the islands.

Welcome to the family The rickety boat putted up to the bank of the fishing village where we were waiting, watching the local kids play an improvised game of football with a rolled up piece of fishing rope. I had been living in the Gambia for the past eight months and was excited to show my visiting parents a new part of the country.

As we made our way slowly up the river, the vegetation changed from the dry dusty banks of the village to the lush, dense forest of the National Park. “There are hippos in the water,” the captain said. “If we’re lucky we might see some up close.” I wasn’t so sure being close to one of Africa’s most aggressive animals would be considered lucky.

Baboon Islands has six luxury tents perched on low cliffs overlooking the wide river and chimpanzee habitat. As we followed the forest-shaded path leading up to tents, I certainly felt as though we were in the African wilderness. This feeling was cemented the next day when my morning wash in the

private outdoor shower was accompanied by the sound of bird calls and a couple of curious monkeys.

After settling into our tents, we headed to dinner in the main river house. There were few guests, making us feel more like part of the family than visitors.

Keen to experience the Gambia’s famous birdlife diversity, we took a prebreakfast hike the next day to a bird-viewing platform with expansive views high above the river. Armed with binoculars and a field guide, we watched as kingfishers darted towards the water, groups of weavers fluttered in a tree nearby, and a violet turaco swooped in front of us, the crimson feathers catching the morning light. We counted 20 different bird species that morning, but there could have been hundreds.

Friends and festivals A few months later we were back. We’d been invited to a village celebration in honour of the Baboon Islands camp and the chimp rehabilitation project.

That afternoon was spent in a haze of red dust and drumming as the local people came out in force to party. Men were dressed in special costumes, brandishing machetes and spinning on their heads. The women, with their colourful patterned fabric, matching head wraps, and babies strapped to their back, danced like I know I will never be able to. The sight of feet kicking up dust, hips jerking, and hands clapping, made it impossible not to join in.

Later that day, I took an hour boat ride around the islands, watching the families of chimpanzees lounging in trees, inspecting each other’s hair, cradling babies, eating fruit, and, quite literally, hanging out. Hundreds of baboons lined the cliffs, colobus monkeys played in nearly every tree, a snake swam through the water in front of us, and groups of

Photo by Katie Jacobs

I wasn’t so sure being close to one of Africa’s most aggressive animals would be considered lucky. hippos lurked in the shallows, their tiny ears and beady eyes just visible above the water line.

The last visit Our final visit to Baboon Islands was in the cool of early March, where nighttime requires a blanket and the days are pleasantly sunny. My husband and I were soon to leave the Gambia, and it seemed the perfect chance to get in one last trip while my sister-in-law and her boyfriend were visiting.

Heading out for what would be our last boat ride, I was just

as excited as I was on my first.

It turned out that our visits to Baboon Islands were a major highlight of the two years in this small, amazing country, and there was no better way to end that chapter of our life.

Baboon Islands is approximately five hours from the capital city of Banjul and is reached by car and ferry. Tours can be booked through Tilly's Tours, or a private visit can be arranged upon arrival through most hotels. An overnight stay at Baboon Islands costs approximately $150, including all meals. asialife HCMC 37

Anyway You Slice It My two favourite countries for food are Vietnam and Spain.

Yes, I know that seems a weird combo, but there it is. Here I get all the pho, banh and snake wine I like, but it’s a long way from Spain. Still, Spain has been trickling in lately. The restaurant Pacharan has been here a few years now at 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1. And El Camino at 137 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 is a bit of a drive from my place though worth the effort. But I’ve just discovered a third truly Spanish gem, and this joint’s a lot cheaper than the others.

Restaurant Olé is at 129B Le Thanh Ton, D1. And it’s the place to go for true Spanish ham in a very relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

Spanish ham is like no other in the wide world. Salted and semi-dried by the cold dry winds of the Spanish sierra, its closest relative is the Italian prosciutto. But if we could say that the Italian version is feminine, then the Spanish is pure male.

The Italian is delicate and pink.

Sliced paper thin and arranged in ruffles and curls on a plate, often with chunks of fruit lying within its folds, it presents a coy appearance. Its aroma is slightly flowery and its taste is of a gentle come-hither kind. It’s very tender.

But a Spanish ham is a bold red, deep, sometimes even the colour of wine. It’s well marbled with buttery fat streaking through the lean like a rainbow.

It smells like meat, and forest and field, and of the mushrooms and acorns and herbs that the beast has fed upon. Of its good features, perhaps, the most remarkable is its texture. It is neither tough nor tender. It offers something to the teeth, yet

yields easily. It is rarely fibrous, and rather than being reduced by the molars to yet smaller and smaller particles, it seems to dissolve upon the tongue like rich fat chocolate. One does not swallow a masticated mass, but a succession of liquefied reductions of robust flavour and nourishment. People don’t serve fruit with Spanish ham.

They serve caviar, cheese, peasant bread, nuts, beer, glasses of port and more ham. Aficionados will gather for ham tastings in the same way that others will

or dry them. Over the course of the year the mean temperature gradually rises, and as it does the fat demonstrates its unique ability to infiltrate the muscle tissue and impregnate it with its rich aroma. Both the hindquarter, the jamon, and the foreleg, the paleta, are used for curing.

The paleta will be the less expensive at market. Serrano accounts for more than 90 percent of the cured ham production of Spain.

How best to enjoy Spanish ham? In great quantity!

But start out with the proper

Aficionados will gather for Spanish ham tastings in the same way that others will attend wine tastings. attend wine tastings. They select hams from the various regions and styles of Spain, of different ages and methods of ageing.

They will discuss the subtleties and complexities and other virtues of the artisan ham from a small village in Extremadura, and compare them to the more scientifically produced ham of a larger enterprise. They will make notes. And they will eat more ham.

The most famous variety is called Serrano. It means “of the sierra” or the mountains. It refers to hams made from whitecoated pigs that were originally introduced into Spain from northern Europe in the 1950s.

Slaughter takes place in winter and is followed by a fortnight in which the hams are packed deeply in salt so as to draw off excess moisture. Then they are hung in sheds called secaderos where the cold, dry winds can get at them and slowly “cure”

temperature. It needs to be at “room temperature,” ideally about 25C. This is when its taste and smell constituents are at optimum volatility. Cut it paper thin into bite-size pieces just before serving. Enjoy it as an appetiser with manchego cheese.

Pour a cold beer or some deep red wine, or a glass of sherry.

Though a Spaniard would not do this, would be aghast even, I find a well-shaken martini straight up with an olive to be the perfect foil to el jamon.

At Restaurant Olé you can have it served with the chef’s specially made Spanish style bread (which itself is worth a visit), or as part of a selection of cured meats including spicy chorizo sausage, as well as the delightful manchego cheese.

There is no martini to be had, but you can get a good Spanish wine or a glass of sangria. A bottle of San Miguel beer goes well, too.

Nippon Izakaya After I heard that a chef at one of my favourite Japanese restaurants said Nippon Izakaya had the city’s best Japanese food, I thought that was a good reason to try it.

Nippon Izakaya feels like a part of the Japanese ghetto lifted off of Le Thanh Ton Street and moved across the bridge to Binh Thanh District. Japanese customers fill the place, with little English spoken and few westerners around, probably because it’s an obscure location.

Decorations are minimal in the windowless downstairs.

The walls are mostly bare, except strips of paper that

The Japanese pub focuses on sake but has the freshest sashimi in town. By Lien Hoang. Photos by Fred Wissink.

announce different menu items in Japanese, hanging elegantly from the wall like laundry. They list items like the seabream sashimi (VND 120,000). You probably can’t go wrong with any sashimi here, it seems to be the freshest fish available and is usually full of flavour. Of course, that comes at a cost, so the food tends to be pricey and comes in small portions.

You also can have the seabream in a set meal (VND 600,000), which changes daily and includes seabream in another form. The simmered variety is a whole fish, which tastes nothing more than nor-

mal until dipped in the sauce pooled around it.

More interesting, though perhaps less healthy, ideas are the deep-fried meats on skewers. Bite into the salmon and cheese (VND 50,000) or the oyster bacon (VND 55,000), and you get a surprising burst of flavour and creativity. If you’re going to justify eating such heavy, fried foods, these are a better option than the deepfried chicken, which doesn’t need the lime that comes with it and is quite fatty. Then again, that’s the point of an izakaya, to give you a bit of food while you drink. In snacks like these, the oil absorbs sake well, which

is really what brings patrons here. In other words, this is not so much a place to have a meal, as much as to drink and nibble on appetisers.

For that reason, the noodles are smaller than the hefty bowls sold outdoors. But the cold udon with poached egg (VND 110,000) is fun to eat as you break up the egg and mix it together with all the noodles and sauce. And, with all the sake bottles lining the wall, fun seems to be the idea here.

63 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh District 08 38 40 98 26 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat asialife HCMC 39

Ty Coz There is no shortage of French restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City, but few have been around for as long as Ty Coz. That’s why I’m always surprised when expats say they have never eaten here. Now in its ninth year, this restaurant remains one of the best in town.

Run by two French brothers, Richard in the kitchen and Philippe in the dining room, the restaurant hasn’t changed its formula since opening.

Because it clearly works.

Each day the offerings, chosen based on what is fresh in the market that morning, are hand-written on a large blackboard. The main dishes change daily and Philippe says since opening, they have created 40 asialife HCMC

A time-tested French restaurant that continues to shine. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

more than 600.

On our most recent visit, that included an imported grilled sea bass (shipped in every Friday). This dish was the most expensive on the menu (VND 850,000) and was served whole with an assortment of stewed vegetable julienne. Here, only the mains are priced, but each comes with an appetiser and dessert. Appetisers include the popular oysters, which have four pieces, each one prepared in a different way — raw or cooked with cheese, for instance.

We also tried the les pétoncles (scallops with pasta for VND 340,000), which was one of the cheaper mains on this day’s menu. The pasta was served

in a mound in the centre of the plate and was surrounded by nine fresh scallops, prepared in several different ways.

As if scallops and oysters weren’t rich enough, we ended the meal with a mousse-like homemade brownie and homemade coffee ice cream, served with a shot of espresso.

Located down an alley off of Pasteur Street in District 1, the restaurant primarily uses its third-floor dining room and fourth-floor patio, which gives a stunning view of the spires of the Notre Dame cathedral.

But starting this month, they will open the ground floor to serve lunch specials for around VND 195,000, which are designed as quick meals

for working professionals. Also this month they will begin serving cheese fondue and raclette on the first floor.

Probably the most alluring aspect of this restaurant is how unpretentious it is. Despite a complex menu, Philippe works hard to explain it in great detail so that even the uninitiated will feel right at home — something I can’t say about most French restaurants around town.

178/4 Pasteur, D1 08 38 22 24 57 11am-1.30pm and 6-9.30pm, Tuesday to Saturday 11am-2pm and 6-9pm, Sunday Closed Monday Tycozsaigon.com

Khoi Thom Good Mexican food in Saigon is hard to come by, but two years later at Khoi Thom, it’s muy excelente.

That’s because the restaurant changed almost its entire menu 10 months ago, when it hired Mexican chef David Alejandro Palacios, 29, to include a full range of beloved Mexican staples, like tacos, enchiladas and burritos, which weren’t on the former menu.

From there, Khoi Thom transitioned from fusion-oriented food to contemporary Mexican.

Guests can choose from main (VND 140,000), sandwich (VND 115,000) or taco (VND 110,000) lunch sets in the day, or from the larger menu, which ranges from VND 75,000-225,000 for full

Mexican food done right in District 3. By Ruben Luong.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

dishes like quesadillas, fajitas, salads and mains.

Palacio says obtaining authentic Mexican flavours in his food using Vietnamese ingredients can be a challenge, since some local ingredients are sweeter or have different textures. But the two mains he prepared for us didn’t show any difficulty.

The first, carnitas-style roast pork belly with mashed black bean and Mexican rice (VND 195,000), was warm and hearty.

Palacios prepared the pork belly using a French style but with Mexican flavours, fusing his carnitas marinade with a combination of rich oregano, cumin, garlic and thyme.

His roasted chicken in adobo

seasoning with roasted potatoes and grilled vegetables is a definite must-have at Khoi Thom (VND 190,000). An even layer of adobo seasoning, consisting of parmesan, rosemary, garlic and red chilli gave a perfect grainy texture to balance the tender chicken meat.

Afterwards, we finished off bowls of fresh tortillas, corn chips and chilli-seasoned sweet potato chips over pico de gallo, roasted tomato, green pepper and cilantro, and sour cream dips, which are all made in-house and come with every order.

Khoi Thom also understands the concept of a fiesta, offering all-you-can-drink margaritas Wednesday nights from

8-10.30pm for VND 290,000.

Thursday is taco night, featuring VND 25,000 tacos, while happy hour is every day from 4-7pm with Tiger draught and local beer for VND 18,000, or 30 percent off all other drinks, except wine.

For alcohol-free diversions, parents are encouraged to bring their children over to the restaurant’s Kids Corner on the weekends, when kids can play with toys or create crafts. This month, guests also can look forward to a free and ongoing salsa night every Sunday.

29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 08 39 30 02 33 11am-late, seven days Khoithom.com asialife HCMC 41

Behind the Design:

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Walking along the crowded pavements of Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Road is an ordeal best avoided. Cheap T-shirts, knock-off DVDs, combat knives and vibrators vie for your attention, impervious of whether you are a single male or a mother with three young children.

Rising out of all this like an art deco temple, the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit provides a welcome refuge from the mire below.

The 32-storey building represents a far more salubrious marriage of east and west than occurs nightly on the streets outside. The hotel’s interior is a modern take on the Thai rice harvest — icons and motifs

42 asialife HCMC

resembling rice fields, stalks and kernels are scattered throughout — blended with French elegance in the form of artwork, statues and props.

Nowhere feels more French than the space at the top. Based on the Haussmann-style that was the creative force behind some of the most influential architecture of 19th-century Paris, L’Appart is precisely that — a Parisian apartment in the heart of Bangkok.

Designed by PIA Interior Company Limited, one of Thailand’s most respected interior design companies, L’Appart represents a refined atmosphere with beautiful bespoke furniture

including a renowned Le Cornue stove.

The space is open to the public and divided into different areas: a formal dining room, an open kitchen and living room set up as the main restaurant, a library for contemplation and conversation, and a bar-lounge area with a DJ station to make the party tick.

Behind the design lies a fictional story that roots the concept. A nephew lives in his wealthy uncle’s apartment — a dream Parisian home lovingly recreated in Bangkok — while he is off on his travels around the globe. As the uncle’s wanderlust continues, the nephew

turns the apartment into his personal party venue and begins to entertain his friends.

Despite the rather contrived scenario, L’Appart is a resounding success. Helped by the award-winning restaurant, the venue already has developed a reputation as a party venue and one of Bangkok’s finest rooftop bars — the view over Sukhumvit is quite stunning.

So, whether you wish to join the rebellious nephew’s nightly party-going, or prefer a cocktail as the sun descends on Sukhumvit, L’Appart most certainly is a cut above the rest.

Mark Bibby Jackson

Photos courtesy of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

asialife HCMC 43

Water's

Edge

44 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 45

Photographer: Dylan Maddux Location: Koh Kong/Rainbow Lodge Model: Vichka All clothes from: TonlĂŠ Assistant: Sophear Ouch 46 asialife HCMC

From

KHUYẾN MÃI

70

.900

đ/hộp

KHUYẾN MÃI

125

.600

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KHUYẾN MÃI

134.600 đ/cây

ist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

listings

hotel & travel

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

AIRLINES

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tour-

escape

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a cafe and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com

Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

HOI AN & DANANG

Angsana Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 800 www.angsana.com Set beachfront on warm sands with a backdrop of the towering Truong Son Mountain Range, Angsana Lang Co is one of the region’s newest five-star resorts. Blessed with brilliant scenes of unspoiled natural beauty, Angsana Lang Co is a contemporary getaway featuring 229 stylish suites (from 52 sqm to 179 sqm), 100 of which come equipped with their own private pools. All suites in every room category feature picturesque mountain, lagoon, or sea views, and incorporate local materials such as bamboo, along with traditional arts with a contemporary twist, lanterns and elegant framed calligraph.

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 www.banyantree.com The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo,

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Downtime in Da Lat

Spring has arrived, and with it Dalat Edensee resort’s Xuan Cao Nguyen package, a threeday accommodation in a mimosa superior room, equipped with a private balcony, Jacuzzi, and marble fireplace. A daily buffet breakfast, romantic dinner at Riesling Restaurant, and a full-body massage for two at La Roseraie spa are also included.

Check in is at 2pm with welcome glasses of special Da Lat high tea. Package is priced at VND 5.3 million per couple and is available through 25 April. Contact sales.saigon@ dalatedensee.com for further information or booking.

Kite Surfing in Mui Ne

Guests who book directly online for a stay of three nights or more at Mia Resort Mui Ne will receive a special stay package con-

48 asialife HCMC

the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

sisting of a 30-minute introduction to kite surfing for two people and two 45-minute spa treatments at the resort’s Xanh Spa. Guests who stay five nights or more will receive the same offer, but with a Vietnamese cooking class voucher included. Mia Resort Mui Ne is a small boutique resort that looks out onto the East Sea, offering a serene and tranquil escape from the city.

Different rates apply, email info@miamuine. com.

Heaven in Hoi An

Any romance from last month’s Valentine’s Day will be nothing compared to the Nam Hai’s ‘ultimate romance experience’ couple’s package, running through 19 Dec at the seaside resort near Hoi An. Spend four days in a one-bedroom villa or pool villa and enjoy a beach BBQ dinner, half-day

private tour of Hoi An, and a luxe Oriental Ritual spa treatment (such as a Himalayan crystal body polish and oriental bathing ceremony). Couples also receive an amethyst jewelry set with necklace, earrings, cufflinks and customised bathrobes. Email reservations@thenamhai. com for rates and booking.

delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

Boutique Hoi An Resort Tel: 84 51 03 93 91 11 www.boutiquehoianresort.com This resort is located on Cua Dai Beach in Hoi An, just five minutes from the Old Town and 30 minutes from the Da Nang airport. The property has 82 rooms and villas, all with private balconies or terraces facing the ocean, a swimming pool and a wide range of cuisine from around the world.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 093 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungleclad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional

Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

HUE

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresort.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222

Vietnam

Book online Cambodia

Laos

www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel.

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

PHAN THIET Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh

Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

SCUBA DIVING Koh Kong, Cambodia

www.beeninASIA.com

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

CHUDU24 hotel booking service 11th floor, 36 Bui Thi Xuan St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 info.en@chudu24.com www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

listings

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Bernie’s Irish Pub 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.berniesirishpub.com This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org

feast

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza. 

CAFES Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known

broaden your palate with promotions around town

To All the Ladies

To celebrate International Women’s Day this year, Café Saigon is treating ladies to a special seafood night (VND 880,000 for food package, VND 199,000 for beverage package with free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks). The seafood night will incorporate an array of fresh seafood, such as lobster, served as a buffet around the open kitchens and carving stations. Together with the talented chefs, led by executive chef Peter D Zobrist, the team at Café Saigon will prepare a spread that includes a dessert counter. Café Saigon is at The Mövenpick Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District.

Lessons from an Iron Chef

Orientica seafood restaurant and bar is offering personalised, 90-minute cooking classes with chef Thanh Tuyen, the first woman to win Iron Chef Vietnam. Students will prepare a three-

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Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

course Vietnamese menu from several choices, like Vietnamese crystal spring rolls, deep-fried spring rolls or shrimp mousse on sugar cane, and stewed caramelised river pike in claypot.

Classes are VND 940,000 per person and are available daily from 9am-2pm and 3pm-7pm.

Orientica is at Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5. Sign up by emailing info@hcm. equatorial.com.

Get Beefy

From 15-21 March, Reflections Restaurant will present a week-long showcase of premium US beef grilled over live coals and paired with tasty sides and sensational sauces. Guests can choose their cut from a selection of imported US tenderloin, rib eye, and black Angus strip loin ranging from 150 to 350 grams (VND 490,000-1.1 million). Each steak is served with a choice

of two side dishes and several traditional sauces. Reflections Restaurant is on the third floor of Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1.

street gourmet

D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. 

Banh Tai Yen Banh tai yen is a subtly sweet cake that is made completely from rice flour and quickly deep-fried in hot oil until it has turned dark brown and puffs up around the edges. Tai yen translates to "swallow’s

industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor

nest", which the treat, with its curled-up sides and soft middle, resembles.

Banh tai yen is a favourite snack for locals and can be found all over the city for about VND 5,000.

Stephy Thai

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around.

Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 An Australian bistro on the scenic promenade at the Crescent in Phu My Hung that serves authentic cuisine from down under, including steaks, burgers, seafood and fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food

concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexco Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  JJ’s Brazilian BBQ Restaurant and Bar 275-277-279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 08 38 38 88 33 Situated in Pham Ngu Lao, JJ’s offers traditional Brazilian churrasco every night, with a wide range of meats barbecued over a charcoal flame. The restaurant is split into three areas: the bar, an outside terrace overlooking the park, and a more formal upstairs dining room.

The Loop 49 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 36 02 63 85 A contemporarily styled restaurant that serves the An Phu community some healthy trattoria-style dishes, refreshing drinks and premium Italian coffee. The menu includes homemade breakfast specialties, and a wide selection of sandwiches and salads.

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street gourmet

By Michael Kloster

imbibe Beyond Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay is so popular worldwide that it is often called the ‘Queen of Grapes’. But I’d venture to guess that here in Saigon, the title should go to sauvignon blanc. It’s the most popular white on most lists because it pairs well with our hot, sticky climate, and it’s a nice match with lots of the local-style seafood. But there is a world beyond the fair sauvignon, where thousands of distinct varietals await your palate. So look around. There are plenty of options at your local reputable retailer, restaurants and cafes. I’ve chosen three of my favourites to introduce here, and hope you discover more on your own.

Moscato Moscato is the Italian name for the muscat grape, which originates from the Middle East and is one of the oldest cultivated grape varietals. There are many types of muscat. Some are better utilised to make big, juicy seeded raisins or grape juice. As a wine, the most common manifestation of moscato derives from around the area of Asti in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy. There are several examples of true moscato d’Asti available locally, and many from other regions, as well. Moscato is usually slightly sweet, light in alcohol, slightly fizzy, and flagrantly floral. Moscato is rapidly gaining popularity in the United States as of late, and is the favoured drink of many hip-hop artists, who are choosing to eschew cognac and champagne for the fresh, lively moscato.

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Torrontes Torrontes is the white counterpart of Argentina’s adopted French signature grape, malbec.

Like moscato, torrontes is known for being floral and fragrant. Unlike sauvignon blanc, it isn’t very acidic, making it feel lighter, and easier to quaff. Torrontes is a great food wine, and I find it particularly pleasurable with lots of aromatic local-style seafood. This wine is an excellent pair for the ubiquitous goi cuon, and anything that uses lots of fragrant herbs.

Riesling Riesling often gets a bum rap due to a proliferation of sickly sweet manifestations made during the ’70s. If you like sweet wines, rieslings are an easy drink. But riesling is a very serious grape that demands respect. Rieslings age very well and are some of the most sought-after by serious collectors and connoisseurs.

There are plenty of off-dry and dry-premium examples available in the market. Look for rieslings from Australia, the United States (particularly Washington state), and of course from Germany’s Rhine Valley. Rieslings are a perfect pairing for fragrant and spicy Asian food.

So next time you find yourself staring at a wine list, think about trying a different grape, there are lots to choose from.

Michael Kloster is the senior sales executive at Magnum Wine Cellars. He can be contacted at michael@magnumwinecellars.com.

Chao Muc Chao muc or squid porridge is a savoury delicacy. Shredded dried squid, which has been soaked in water and a little white wine bulks up the dish. In addition to the squid and coagulated blood clots (huyet), the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

dish contains finely sliced pigskin, dried shrimp and finger-shaped soufflé batter (chao quay). Egg yolk, bean sprouts and shredded ginger are also added. A bowl goes for about VND 30,000.

Stephy Thai Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta

and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. 

JAPANESE Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an

alleyway and decorated with artdeco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

at home BAKERIES

VIETNAMESE

Grillbar 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 79 01 A Vietnamese restaurant with a focus on charcoal-grilled meat brings classic Vietnamese street food indoors to a modern, clean environment.

Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet

fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 202B Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan 138A To Hien Thanh, D10 792 Nguyen Kiem, Go Vap 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu 212 Thoai Ngoc Hau, Tan Phu 1231 National Road 1A, KP5, Binh Tan www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro Anphu An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Local Eats

By Tristan Ngo

A Rice Relic On a recent walk through the city, I realised that what had once been common sights on Saigon’s streets are now rare.

Quintessential Vietnamese items such as a classic ganh (baskets used for carrying), xich lo (cycle rickshaw), ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) or non la (conical hat) have become quite rare, especially in the downtown area of District 1.

But there still are some relics. On the corner of Mac Thi Buoi and Hai Ba Trung streets there is a sweet and humble husband-and-wife team that has been selling xoi (sticky rice) since 1975. The husband used to ride his xich lo to drop off his wife and her ganh of goods.

But now he helps his wife sell rice since he is too old to drive the rickshaw.

Xoi is a classic Vietnamese glutinous rice dish that is great for breakfast, but can be eaten anytime. Adding simple items, such as sesame seeds, sugar, coconut shavings and mung beans, enhances xoi’s flavours.

Adding shredded chicken, braised pork or fried Chinese sausage instantly makes it savoury. It's a simple dish, yet not so easy to prepare, so I really appreciate those who create it.

The husband and wife duo only serve four different types of xoi. Xoi nep than, or 56 asialife HCMC

black sticky rice, is traditionally served on a rice cracker, topped with sugar, sesame seeds, mung bean paste, roasted peanuts and shaved coconut. Unique and delicious.

Xoi bap (sweet sticky rice with corn, sugar, fried onions, and smashed cooked green beans) is a popular main dish that originated in northern Vietnam. It uses two main ingredients from that region, sweet rice and corn maize.

The lure of this dish comes from the aroma created by the fried shallots and the salted sweetness of roasted sesame and peanuts.

Xoi mang, (mang means salty or savoury to distinguish it from the many sweet sticky rice dishes) is a hearty meal composed of sticky rice with Chinese sausage (lap xuong), shredded chicken, Vietnamese sausage (cha lua), small shrimp (tep), dried shredded pork (cha bong), roasted garlic, and a mixture of green onions and soy sauce, all served on a rice waffle.

Xoi dau phong (peanuts sticky rice) is a humbler version of the dish composed of salt, sesame seeds, sugar and shaved coconut.

If you want to try xoi, or are looking for another great place to get it, stop by this stand between 7am and noon to taste a Saigon relic.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use

of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477)

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facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city.

By Phil Kelly

fitness Time for a Detox Are you feeling weighed down after the Tet holidays from all the drinking and eating? The best way to get your body and internal environment to a healthy status is to allow it to re-establish its homeostasis or normal function. The partying, eating, drinking and stress of the holidays will have overloaded your body with damaging hormones and chemicals, which your liver has to deal with.

The liver is the largest organ in your body and is the epicentre for detoxification and fat burning. The liver will always prioritise its role of removing harmful substances from your body, as this is a basic survival mechanism. In contrast, your body is more than capable of storing fat and not coming to too much harm (in the short term). Hence, the liver will work first to remove harmful chemicals from your system before actively working to metabolise or burn fat stores. So any detox should really focus on helping or healing the liver.

Generally, the notion of a detox conjures up ideas of cabbage soup, juices or eating nothing at all. To me, detox means giving your body a chance to clear out any harmful substances (hormones, toxins and chemicals) and eliminating any food substances your system doesn't tolerate.

You do not need any magic pills or powders, disgusting drinks and foods, or expensive programs that provide empty promises. You simply need to give your body a chance to 58 asialife HCMC

work its own magic. Here are four tips to help the liver do its job.

1. Increase the amount of natural fibre (vegetables) in your diet. Fibre is only found in plant foods and helps you lose fat by making you feel fuller quicker and for longer, as it slows down the rate of digestion.

Vegetables also contain plenty of antioxidants, which protect healthy cells.

2. Take a supplement that supports and promotes good liver function. This will help speed the healing and regeneration process. Milk thistle and dandelion tea are two great options.

3. Reduce the burden on your liver by avoiding processed foods.

4. Drink at least 1 litre of water per 23kg of body weight.

There are a number of reasons water is important, such as helping flush toxins out of your body and preventing dehydration, which slows down the fat-burning process. So make sure to stay hydrated.

Detoxing will help lay the foundation for health and longterm fat loss and will re-establish the biochemical balance of your internal environment and assist and heal the liver, ultimately leading to a healthier lifestyle.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home.

Contact him though Phil-kelly. com.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club

1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

listings

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

health & beauty

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished traditional hospital & training

centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08

3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

MEDICAL

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

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Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multi-

GERMAN

HIGH-TECH DENTAL CLINIC ACCADENT DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan Street, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City | Vietnam phone +84 (8) 62 67 66 66 E-Mail: info@accadent.com www.accadent.com.vn

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AC C A DE N T In t er national V ie t nam C omp any L imit e d DE N TA L C L INIC

lingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan

Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop www.thebodyshop.com.vn International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

BABY EQUIPMENT

listings

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others. Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc.

Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for nonmembers. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

CLOTHES DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to preschool age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com

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Hi! My name is Alyssandra Dominique Legados, and I am one of the student guides for the AIS Open Day.

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We would like to invite you to our Open Day on Saturday 15 March from 9am to 12noon, at the Thu Thiem Campus, where you will have a chance to meet the students, teachers, be taken on a guided tour of AIS, watch exclusive performances by Primary and Secondary students, enjoy a sizzling BBQ and experience an IB World School at its best!

Let us show you why AIS is an outstanding school.

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Experience an IB World School at its best

Register to attend! www.aisvietnam.com/openday

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www.aisvietnam.com/openday

SCAN THE CODE TO WATCH THE VIDEO

enrolments@aisvietnam.com [OPENDAY - Alyssandra] Asia Life half page 175x119mm MAR2014.indd 1

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UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

By Gemma Mullen

Kids corner Playtime Running around the park playing hide and seek with your little one is a lot of fun and a great way to spend a few hours. But most parents aren’t aware of just how important different types of play can be for a child’s development. From physical and cognitive development to social and emotional skills, babies are constantly learning about their bodies and the world around them while playing games.

At the heart of all play is exploration. Babies like to feel, squeeze, push, pull and crawl, while toddlers are usually a little more imaginative and will demonstrate key skills including curiosity, problem solving and independence. There are many different types of play that can be encouraged depending on your little one’s development — where they are is usually your call, so try to be realistic and plan useful activities.

Social play can be introduced from birth and simply involves your baby interacting with you (or others) through looking, smiling, talking and laughing. A simple game of peek-a-boo or singing songs will go a long way towards developing social skills, helping your baby learn how conversations work and encouraging the all-important talking.

Object play usually involves touching, throwing, banging, pushing — or sometimes all four. It’s time to pull out the bright, musical toys (preferably ones that can take a good whack) because this will help baby develop hand-eye coordination, cognitive skills and 62 asialife HCMC

curiosity.

Early symbolic play comes as children get a bit older, around two years old. Basically, it involves that little tyke creating something out of nothing, which is quite wonderful to observe.

Suddenly a box becomes a space station, a kitchen paper tube moonlights as a telescope, or some old rags magically develop into a “beautiful” wedding dress. These marvelous ideas are not just mind-blowing for parents, they also get the creative and imaginative juices flowing inside our little ones.

Once children hit three, they’ll likely move onto role play, taking on exciting new guises such as a doctor, a teacher, or the strangely ever-popular shopkeeper. While your little one is charging you extortionate prices for an imaginary can of Coke, just remember that he’s also developing language, social and emotional skills aplenty.

It is very important to ensure that children are happy and well rested before embarking on an epic playathon. Be sure to stop when they’ve had enough and if there are signs of fatige, take a break. That leaves just one last thing to remember, a classic saying in the childcare world: Play is the work of children, cleaning up is the work of parents.

Gemma Mullen has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes.

BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com The EUROPEAN International School offers an English language curriculum based on the internationally recognised Primary Program (PYP), Middle Years Program (MYP) and IB Diploma Program of the International Baccalaureate (IB) System. The mission of the school is to educate global citizens in a multilingual und multicultural learning environment in the setting of an educational village that focuses on international as well regional students International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/

extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

listings

living

11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor

By Greg Ohan

Neighbourhood Watch McRetail The opinions may differ, but, unless you have been living under a rock the past month, you can’t escape the fanfare and hysteria that is the opening of Vietnam’s first McDonald's restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City. I like to refer to it as McMania.

Although McDonald's is late to the market in Vietnam, where a bevy of fast food operators and franchises are already based, what implications will this have for the future of Vietnam’s retail market and foreign franchise brands here?

Is this the beginning of our fast food renaissance? A boom in potential “fatty” consumption?

Or the end of an era?

Currently Lotteria is the leading fast food giant in Vietnam with 146 restaurants, followed by trailblazer KFC (another US fast food brand, which entered in 2007) with 134 and Jollibee with more than 30. Now Burger King also has aggressively opened 29 restaurants across the country since its debut just last year.

Recent figures from the Ministry of Industry and Trade reported that there were just over 100 foreign franchises registered in Vietnam as of December. So what is driving this sudden push? Simple: a burgeoning middle class, growing disposable income and twothirds of the population under 30, who are brand-conscious, trendy and interested in the western lifestyle. For many,

the arrival of these brands is an opportunity that has been simmering for a long time.

While Vietnam may have slightly lost its ‘land of opportunities’ allure, the fact is that it is still within a two-and-a-halfhour flight from Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Hong Kong — the third fastest-growing economy in the region, with a retail sector that is growing in double digits annually. Some are winning and others are losing, but the “you need to be in it to win it” attitude has paid off for some. Many brands still see Vietnam as essentially an untapped market.

Market research shows that Vietnamese eat out at foreign fast food restaurants between one to four times a month.

They also are increasingly willing to pay for pricier food at these outlets, which are two to three times more than the local meal prices. Vietnamese people remain eager for international concepts, products and services, so I think it’s fair to assume we can expect more brands to enter the market. Only time will tell whether the novelty fades or if the flame burns brighter. Until then, yes, I’ll have fries with that.

Greg Ohan is the national director of CBRE, a Fortune 500 real estate services provider.

Email your questions to greg. ohan@cbre.com or visit Cbrevietnam.com. asialife HCMC 63

1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

By Elizabeth Png

HOME IMPROVEMENT Preserving Paintings Whether it’s an expensive masterpiece or a piece of art you’ve painstakingly created, you’ll want the paintings you hang on your walls to last and look their best. And you don’t need to have the vast resources of museums to do so.

Finding a good location There’s a reason museums tend to have similar temperatures and relative humidity.

To preserve works of art for the long term, temperatures optimally need to be kept between 19 and 21C, with a relative humidity of between 40 to 55 percent. The humidity should not fluctuate more than 5 percent in a day.

In a private home setting, investing in a good air conditioner like the Electrolux Viva Grande, whose extralarge louvers ensure air is circulated to all parts of the room, can help to recreate the environmental conditions needed.

Choosing the right room to display the art matters, too.

Rooms that have access to the outdoors, such as rooms with open windows or doors that lead out of the house, can cause great fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Exterior walls, or walls that are exposed to the outdoors on one side, can be colder and damper in certain seasons. Exposing the painting to dry heat or cold temperatures can cause the oils to crack.

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Hanging the painting Try to keep the painting out of harm’s way and minimise the risk of it being bumped, leaned against, touched with fingers or splattered upon.

Ensure that the painting is kept out of direct sunlight at any time of the day, since UV rays can cause the artwork to fade. Hang it where there will be low levels of direct lighting.

Try to keep the room free of airborne pollutants such as fireplace or candle soot, tar from cigarettes, dust particles, and oil and grease from the kitchen. These may attach to the surface of the painting and damage it over time. The Viva Grande air conditioner’s high-grade HEPA filters and plasma technology will help filter microscopic particles and kill bacteria in the air.

Cleaning a painting If you find dust on the painting, lightly brush the dust away using a Chinese watercolour brush or a very soft feather duster. If you can, turning the painting over and gently shaking the dust off may also work. Take care not to touch the canvas with your fingers.

Elizabeth Png is the brand and consumer communications director for Electrolux Vietnam. She can be contacted at elizabeth.pngreade@electrolux.com.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Kiko Flame OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0902 636 950 www.ngonluakiko.com Recently established graphic design studio employing highly skilled, well disciplined artists, graphic designers and web developers. We specialize in creative design for print media and web, offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam

including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection

to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

AustinHome Rare Decor 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 Outstanding quality and style for your 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh home. The shop says its products are Tel: 3840 6304/5 hand-picked by an American furniture AGS_Vietnam_59X175_WORD_27.1.2014_CTP_.pdf 1 2/6/2014 2:57:41 PM Leading home furnishings company in expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

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Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

By Gary Woolacott

People matter Cultural Awareness If you've noticed my headline, you’re probably expecting a piece about how westerners have to adjust to living and working in Asia. Well, perhaps I’m going to surprise you: this is about how Asians have to adjust to our ways — in and out of the office — if they are going to be successful within western companies.

Etiquette, appearance and general manners all can be tricky. We are told not to raise our voices in the office and to be careful not to cause people to lose face. But the reality at many western companies is that they don’t care about losing face. They are there to do business and carry out the company’s mission within its ethical guidelines. Losing face doesn’t come into it, and someone whose psyche is so fragile he takes offence at every reprimand or correction isn’t going to last very long. Frankly, people who are taking a salary to perform a job should get on and deal with it. That's what they’re paid for.

People make business decisions based on the information at hand; making the wrong decision is not always a sacking offence. And making a mistake doesn’t mean the boss hates you. If yours does go into a sulk, consider finding someone who doesn’t act like a child.

The same goes for subordinates. It isn’t acceptable to sulk when you've been told off.

Table manners can trip up those not used to eating in a western style. If you don’t know how to use a knife, then 66 asialife HCMC

ask someone. Holding it like a dagger will not impress, nor will chewing with your mouth open, or talking with food in your mouth.

Most of our western ways are really about not offending other people and showing an appropriate level of behaviour. That means enjoying a few drinks at a networking event but not getting drunk, or sharing with colleagues a meal that may not be your favourite. Don’t complain, just try it. You might be surprised and contribute to the conversation around the table.

This means being respectful and not overly familiar with your boss, especially if you’ve been drinking.

Back at the office, you should dress appropriately, not too casually or as if you’re going out dancing. If you’re a man, watch for behaviour that might be construed as sexual harassment, which is unacceptable in western companies and can get you fired. Things that might be shrugged off locally could have serious repercussions if you work for a multinational and you violate its code of conduct.

And anyway, shouldn’t you be treating everyone respectfully all the time?

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE

Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas.

Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service

provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete

Being there, or being ‘there’ Crown’s people are always with you.

Preparing you before you go, and helping you settle‐in when you arrive.

Relocating should be exciting and rewarding for everyone.

Our experience and knowledge of worldwide relocations, is shared by all our people in more than 200 locations.

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 8 3840 4237 hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Da Nang Tel: +84 908 426 427 danang@crownrelo.com Hanoi Tel:+84 4 3936 6742 hanoi@crownrelo.com

And we’ll always be there to help you get the most from your relocation.

Go knowing

www.crownrelo.com/vietnam

portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78

countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 www.saigonvan.com MOVING!?

Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support ! services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com info@santaferelo.com.vn With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

listings

fashion By Christina Yu

FASHION RULES Rules for Gentlemen As a guy, you may think you know how to make a tie.

Wrong, check again. The tip of a correctly done tie should cover the last button of your shirt and never go below the belt. Any longer or shorter looks like a mistake and can make you look shorter, or just plain stupid.

Always button your jacket, at least with one button. Why? The primary purpose of buttoning things a certain way is to show off good tailoring and lines and it sends out a subtle message that you are neat and tidy. Any undone buttons on your casual shirts should be strategic, and show that what you are wearing (not your chest) is of good quality.

Edwin Hardy Aimes’s ABC of Men’s Fashion, first published in 1964 and recently updated, is considered to be the style bible for men. An established menswear designer since the 1940s and dressmaker for Queen Elizabeth II until his retirement, this sartorial guru lays out the ultimate mantra on how men should dress well: “A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.” I think the last part of the statement is particularly important. Many men look like they have forgotten what they were putting on in the first place and only see clothes as a uniform or part of the job. Others who do care can sometimes look like they try too hard. A fine line to draw, no doubt.

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Aimes was all about formal tailoring but this does not mean everything has to be stuffy and formal. On evening parties that kick off in the daylight, he recommended navy rather than black as the colour palette. One can consider a French navy dinner jacket with a lightweight navy micro — check linen trousers and canvas loafers or slippers with tassels — as a seasonal take on the classic dinner suit.

On sandals and shorts, he wrote, “Avoid sandals and shorts: always wear a collar and a tie in town, even if it’s by the sea, after 6pm. Never wear shorts except actually on the beach or on a walking tour. Sandals are hell, except on the beach — or on a boat when you need to take them on and off — and worn with socks, are super hell.” Some of his advice may sound dated today and hard to follow in this climate, but the core of what he recommended still holds true in menswear.

The truth is, with the way men dress today, there is certainly a building interest in bending the rules to show more individual tastes. But more often than not, the rules are not so comfortably broken, unless you are already a master in the art of dressing.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ipanima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Ginkgo Concept Store 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 0905 493 148 www.gingko-vietnam.com A unique shopping space that offers an original and creative mix of made-inVietnam clothing from local designers, artisans and brands that stay true to the company’s environmentally friendly principles.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212

Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

XU

Cuban Brothers at Q4

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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radar For those who don’t speak legalese

Lifeofthelaw.org Even for non-Americans, the US prison system can be an interesting case study because the country is far and away the world’s top jailer of its own citizens. Life of the Law gives fascinating insight into this system. Its contributors have gotten rare access inside a death row facility, found out what women do if they’re sent to jail while pregnant, and convinced their audience to sympathise with a boy expelled for making a school hit list. This is an important, though off-the-radar website, at a time when the United States is grappling with overcrowded prisons and racist drug policies. No one else seems to find the unique stories that Life of the Law does, and make them understandable to people who don’t speak legalese.

Don’t just watch

Thepioneerwoman.com Cooking shows have exploded in popularity in recent years. OK, that’s obvious. But perhaps the weirdest thing about this trend is that all these new TV shows haven’t really led to an explosion in home cooking. Don’t just be one of the onlookers. Try out some recipes for yourself, like the ones shared by the Pioneer Woman. Her concoctions aren’t exactly healthy — “ooey, gooey cookies” and “chipotle chicken chilli” were recent entries — but she does throw in the occasional kale recipe. Besides, anything you make at home has to be healthier than eating out.

Do it yourself

Diynetwork.com Is there anything more attractive than a partner who is handy around the house? But for those of us who are not handymen, there’s the Do It Yourself Network. It’ll teach you basic stuff, like how to unclog a sink easily, or spruce up a table you found at an estate sale. There’s plenty of advanced projects, too, though Ho Chi Minh City denizens might not have that much use for instructions on how to fix a crack in the driveway. The site also sometimes strays away from pure home improvement: In February, there was no shortage of posts on ideas for romantic dinners and self-made cards.

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asialife HCMC 75

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Lydia Loveless

Isaiah Rashad

Cibo Matto

Angelique Kidjo

Somewhere Else

Cilvia Demo

Hotel Valentine

Eve

Taylor Swift and Lydia Loveless are both blonde country singers in their early 20s, with names that sound like teen fiction heroines. That’s pretty much where the similarities end. Swift has catapulted to celebrity with catchy pop tunes and highprofile romantic entanglements, whereas Loveless has followed a path less directly aimed at commercial success. The Ohio native’s third album is tinged with 1990s alternative influences and a punk attitude, with heart-baring lyrics that would make Swifties blush.

With her honky-tonk soul, Loveless’s diversified sound is accessible to listeners who are unaccustomed to country music. It makes for a further reason why she and Swift are alike, with both expanding the genre beyond its niche borders.

There’s hip-hop that is all about being superhuman — the cash, the cars, the power, the glory.

Then there’s hip-hop that is about being human. The rise of Drake, Tyler the Creator, and Kendrick Lamar have shown that it’s OK to show vulnerability. Isaiah Rashad is the latest MC to admit insecurity in his music, alluding to father issues and struggles with responsibility. Cilvia Demo is his 14-track debut EP, released on Top Dawg Entertainment. Raised in Chattanooga, Tennessee, Rashad brings his southern sensibilities to the Californiabased label. Though his lyrics may reveal some of the 22-yearold’s anxiety, there’s no lack of confidence in his flow, which is delivered with unhurried charm.

Cibo Matto’s third record is a love story about ghosts in a hotel. Fifteen years after releasing their sophomore album, the art-pop duo has reunited to produce a concept album that’s delightfully weird.

Cibo Matto sounded unique in the 1990s and their brand of quirkiness still stands out today.

Given the duo’s eclecticism and Japanese roots, Yoko Ono is a blatant comparison, particularly as the album is released on her son Sean Lennon’s Chimera Music label. The album sees Miho Hatori alternating between mischievous rapping and sugar-coated singing, whereas Yuka Honda provides backup vocals and uses various sound devices. Each track produces a different mood, encompassing a wealth of sounds and styles that include hip-hop, jazz, and electronica.

The call-and-response form, whereby one person sings a phrase that is then answered by a group of singers, has a rich history in African music.

On her 10th album, Eve, Angelique Kidjo features a moving example of the pattern.

At the beginning of the track ‘Bana’, her elderly mother Yvonne — also the album’s namesake — sings a refrain that is then picked up by Kidjo herself and a chorus of voices.

Dedicated to the women of Africa, the record features female choirs from villages in Kidjo’s native Benin and Kenya. A Unicef ambassador and Grammy Award winner, Kidjo is well positioned to draw attention to the struggles of African women. Singing in French, English and several West African languages, she also celebrates their strength, courage and beauty.

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endorsed

xoneFM top ten Hot 10

Photo by Stephen Wilde of Herschel Supply

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Jason Derulo

Herschel Supply Co

By Ruben Luong On a recent trip to Hanoi, my brother’s girlfriend and I were admiring her Herschel Supply Co travel duffel at the airport.

It was cobalt with long top red handles, fully lined with a utilitarian cotton-poly material, and trademarked in Herschel Supply’s retro label stitched at the centre. It was something one might be tempted to Instagram on the ground, in the overhead cabin, or in the taxi, because the only thing missing was some ethereal, soft filter that could make this bag appear that much more timeless.

Seeing as how such a nice and trusty bag could make travelling a bit more special and memorable, I later became interested in the brand, a relatively young outfitter of fine backpacks, totes, luggage, travel goods, and accessories marketed towards the young, outdoorsy, and adventurous.

Herschel Supply Co was founded five years ago by two brothers, Jamie and Lyndon Cormack, in Vancouver, Canada. Since the 1900s, three generations of their family were raised in Herschel, a small town in Scotland that is home to only 30 residents, according to its website.

Much like the company itself, the products can be passed down from generation to generation, remaining durable enough in construction but also creative enough in style to leave lasting impressions.

Their recent autumn 2013

collection was inspired by cold nights at the cabin and unpredictable weather. Its ensuing Packables Collection, for example, featured mini daypacks in lightweight poly ripstop, and totes, duffles, messengers, and rain covers in navy, red, black, army and rust, colourblocked or drawn in chevron or woodland camo.

But its new spring 2014 collection is more playful, and “ventures west towards islands balancing on the horizon for a hit of fresh sea air” (something we all occasionally daydream about here in Saigon). Macbook and iPad sleeves ($29.99-$39.99) are decorated in palm tree, polka dot, or stylised river fish and hibiscus prints. Other bags are colourblocked in lively primary colors.

Last month, the brand collaborated with famous UK retailer Liberty of London to produce four classic bag styles modified to feature new prints, showing that the brand is not only becoming more credible, but bespoke. A new paint-splattered Melly print is juxtaposed with an inner-lined Mitsi Valeria floral print on black, dark navy, cobalt, and khaki bags.

Herschel Supply only ships to the United States and Canada, but a selection of their backpacks and travel accessories are available downtown at L’Usine Café. For products, visit Herschelsupply.com.

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boxoffice

Mr Peabody & Sherman

The Monuments Men

Pompeii

300: Rise of an Empire

Mr Peabody, the most accomplished dog in the world, and his mischievous boy Sherman, use their time machine â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the WABAC â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to go on the most outrageous adventures known to man or dog. But when Sherman takes the WABAC out for a joyride to impress his friend Penny, they accidentally rip a hole in the universe, wreaking havoc on the most important events in world history. Before they forever alter time, Mr Peabody must come to their rescue, ultimately facing the most daunting challenge of any era.

Based on the true story of the greatest treasure hunt in history, this film is an action drama focusing on an unlikely World War II platoon, tasked by FDR with going into Germany to rescue artistic masterpieces from Nazi thieves and returning them to their rightful owners. But as the Monuments Men, as they were called, found themselves in a race against time to avoid the destruction of 1,000 years of culture, they would risk their lives to protect and defend mankind's greatest achievements.

Set in AD79, Pompeii tells the story of Milo (Kit Harington), a slave turned invincible gladiator who finds himself in a race against time to save his true love Cassia (Emily Browning), the beautiful daughter of a wealthy merchant who has been unwillingly betrothed to a corrupt Roman senator. As Mt Vesuvius erupts in a torrent of blazing lava, Milo must fight his way out of the arena in order to save his beloved as the once magnificent Pompeii crumbles around him.

Based on Frank Miller's latest graphic novel Xerxes, and told in the visual style of the blockbuster 300, this new chapter of the saga takes the action to a fresh battlefield on the sea as Greek general Themistocles (Sullivan Stapleton) attempts to unite all of Greece by leading the charge that will change the course of the war. The film pits Themistocles against the massive invading Persian forces led by mortal-turned-god Xerxes (Rodrigo Santoro), and Artemisia (Eva Green), vengeful commander of the Persian navy.

Opening Dates CINEMAS CGV CGV.vn

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Mr Peabody & Sherman (7 Mar) The Monuments Men (7 Mar) Pompeii (7 Mar) 300: Rise of an Empire (14 Mar)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Good Luck of Right Now Matthew Quick Harper Following the success of The Silver Linings Playbook and its film adaptation, Matthew Quick returns with another book that celebrates family, friendships and unconventionality.

After Bartholomew Neil’s beloved mother passes away, the 38-year-old doesn’t know what to do with himself.

Bartholomew starts writing to Richard Gere, inspired by a “Free Tibet” campaign letter from the actor discovered in his mother’s effects. These intimate letters share Bartholomew’s quirky thoughts on cat telepathy, philosophy, alien abduction and women, as well as narrate his unfolding story of coping with loss and connecting with other emotionally scarred but loveable characters.

For Today I Am A Boy Kim Fu

Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Peter Huang is the only son of Chinese immigrants. In the face of his father’s forceful expectations, he feels at odds with his role in the family — and with the body he was born into. In her debut novel, Kim Fu provides insight into transgender identity and the first-generation Chinese-Canadian experience. Peter is sure he is a girl, but is hiding his true self from his difference-fearing, autocratic father and the small town that they live in. As his father attempts to eliminate the family’s Chinese origins and assimilate completely, Peter breaks away to follow his own path.

The Sixth Extinction: An Unnatural History Elizabeth Kolbert Henry Holt and Company During this century, between 20 to 50 percent of all living species on this planet are expected to disappear. The sixth extinction, cited in Elizabeth Kolbert’s title, refers to the current mass extinction of Earth’s diversity of life, the sixth such event in the last half a billion years. In the most devastating extinction prior, an asteroid brought on the end of the dinosaur species. This time, humans are the cause of the destruction. Providing compelling stories and scientific evidence, Kolbert looks at how man-made climate change stemming from the release of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere is wreaking environmental havoc.

The Visionist Rachel Urquhart Little, Brown and Company The Shakers, a religious sect known for communal living and ecstatic worship, are the subject of Rachel Urquhart’s historical fiction debut. After Polly Kimball sets fire to her family farm and her abusive father is killed, the 15-year-old and her younger brother find refuge in the City of Hope, a Shaker colony in Massachusetts. Their arrival coincides with a historic period in the 1840s, known as the Era of Manifestations, when young Shaker girls around America’s northeast were reported to be experiencing mystical visions. When the City of Hope believes Polly to be its own visionary, her secrets are at risk of being uncovered.

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ODD ONE OUT Underslept and overworked, Dana Filek-Gibson decides to mentally tackle Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s problems in her downtime.

Because who doesn't need a disposable shower cap to wear inside of the xe om driver's helmet?

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Because I have an overactive imagination and an addiction to caffeine, I have begun solving the world's problems in my downtime. This usually takes place after all the shops have closed, my internet connection has slowed and I'm trying to fall asleep. Mostly, I come up with duds, but over the past month I've managed to brainstorm some solid conclusions that make perfect sense in the dark after 2am. At least in theory, the earth should be a better place in a few weeks.

It all started with a semispiritual awakening in a cave at Marble Mountain, the religious haven and mass producer of stone statuettes. A man in a tie explained Buddhism to me like it was a video game in which all the secrets of the universe could be unlocked if you achieved enlightenment, which requires hours of dedication and sitting by yourself. Throw in a headset, and the similarities to Xbox are staggering.

Level one: human being. Level two: zen-like state. Level three: nirvana and the opportunity to lie down and take a nap.

Combined with my competitive streak and some obscure talk about seeds in our brains and cultivating mental gardens, this was all the convincing I needed.

Thus, underslept and

overworked, I began tapping into the universal energy of all living things in an effort to a) focus and b) improve my karma score through meditation.

While none of that has happened, through several bouts of tangential thinking I have come up with enough fixes to small, everyday problems to start my own Vietnamese home shopping network.

The bad news is that I have, by all accounts, failed at meditation. I still don't know how you tell when you're thinking about nothing, but I presume it's similar to a blackout, in which case sleep, alcohol and fugue states can all achieve the same effect. What's more, it turns out that, much like the tangible world, I'm a hoarder. I have thousands of inane thoughts that get tossed in a drawer somewhere and come up later when I'm trying to concentrate on something completely unrelated. The good news is that, in place of connecting with spiritual energy, I am going to make a fortune.

Because who doesn't need a disposable shower cap to wear inside of the xe om driver's helmet? How many of us have broken a plastic stool in our day and later wished there had been something to reinforce this miniature furniture before we placed our giant western

bodies upon it? I know at least a few vertically gifted people who would sink some serious money into creating a hat that alerted its wearer to low ceilings. These are solvable problems, and the infomercials would be out of this world. And once I've got the means to air a 40-minute segment on no-stick couch leather or sock extensions for people with large feet, there are other business ventures in which I believe immense untapped profit awaits.

A cafe, for example, called the Library, in which there is no food or drink allowed and everyone sits in silence, free from the tyranny of Taylor Swift and Enya.

So next time you're at the supermarket and you see my face next to a display of as-seenon-TV products, you'll know that this brilliance arose from a special blend of sleep deprivation, unsuccessful spirituality and possibly mental illness. I may be a failed Buddhist but I am, at the very least, an optimist. And in the silver lining of my failure to meditate are a treasure trove of inventions that could make me Vietnam's equivalent of the ShamWow! guy.

Dana Filek-Gibson is a Canadian expat living in Ho Chi Minh City.

A Libertine Abroad JW Sherman takes on the keyboard warriors.

"If you can't say anything nice, then it's best not to say anything at all." Do you remember your mother saying something similar to you when you were young? I do, and it is something that has come back to me repeatedly in recent weeks.

The reason for this, in part, is because of my recent foray into the world of social media.

I recently joined Facebook, due in part to the urging of the good people at this magazine who asked me to write this small column for you each month.

I have also taken to a closer examination of the comments that nowadays regularly accompany the articles on the websites of newspapers and magazines. This experiment has been eye-opening to say the least.

After a few weeks touring this marketplace of ideas, my feelings on the general level of discourse in these forums is one of disappointment and approaching, on occasion, despair.

I understand that this will not be news to many of you. Perhaps a few of you reading this enjoy the practice of 'trolling', or posting intentionally inflammatory comments in such spaces. But as I think we all really know, these kinds of comments say more about the commenter than

anything else.

A study by researchers at the University of Manitoba that was reported in the media recently found that those engaging in such actions exhibited much greater instances of behaviour consistent with narcissism, psychopathy and sadism. In short, this means almost total self-involvement, the inability to empathise and taking pleasure in the suffering of others.

The invective, abusive language, and frankly astonishing ignorance that generally passes for comment in this sphere is astounding (there are exceptions, of course). But this leaves me in a personally difficult position, philosophically speaking.

You see, as a libertarianminded sort of fellow I naturally incline towards defending the right of anyone to freely voice his opinion. Yet there are caveats to this stand.

Inciting people to violence is clearly indefensible, as is any suggestion of harm towards children.

That leaves, then, a broad spectrum of opinion and comment that one should be able to express without fear of censor. And I will always defend that right. But just because you can express your opinion with all the vulgarity,

aggressiveness and idiocy you may wish â&#x20AC;&#x201D; does not mean you should.

The level of public discourse, and therefore the level of our own governance, has become hopelessly polarised in recent years. Just look at the state of US politics these past years. Are we following our leaders or are they following our lead?

But what really gets my goat about the whole issue is the inherent cowardice of it all. I cannot escape the conclusion that the worst offenders in the online comment world would not dare utter such incendiary statements to another's face. But safe behind the anonymity of the keyboard, they are full of courage.

Oh, and let's not forget the rampant stupidity. There seems to also be an awful lot of that.

A good deal more rational analysis and discussion would see us all the better served. If you will forgive the irony of me saying this in an opinion column, I would suggest that to improve the level of debate around serious issues in society we could all do well to read more, listen more and say less.

JW Sherman is an American management consultant who has been living in Southeast Asia for more than 20 years.

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pub quiz 1. Who played Marilyn Monroe's friends Daphne and Geraldine in the film Some Like It Hot? 2. What type of food is traditionally eaten on Good Friday?

3. Which brothers were pioneers in the field of hot-air ballooning?

4. Which capital city gets over 90 percent of its heating from natural hot springs?

5. Cat on a Hot Tin Roof was written by which playwright?

Cold 6. “It was a bright cold day in April and clocks were striking 13” is the famous start to which novel?

7. Chris Martin is the vocalist with which band?

8. Which German prison camp did Pat Reid escape from?

9. Who won the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress for her role in Cold Mountain?

10. What is the world’s coldest capital city?

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Publishment Manager: Vuõ Quoác Khaùnh Editors: Phöông Lam Giang Traàn Ngoïc Thöông Designed by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC Cover & content by: ASIALIFE MEDIA JSC

21. What were students at the New York High School of Performing Arts seeking?

22. What's the highest peak on Honshu island?

23. Where did Arsenal Football Club play their home games?

24. Which Greek word literally means the highest point of the city?

25. Which African country takes its name from its highest mountain?

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Stone 11. In which Irish county would you kiss the Blarney Stone?

12. In which sport are stones and a broom used?

13. Where does Yogi Bear live?

14. Which cult hero did Val Kilmer play in a 1991 Oliver Stone movie?

15. Who appeared on the cover of the first edition of Rolling Stone magazine?

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30) 1) Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis 2) Hot cross buns 3) Montgolfier 4) Reykjavik 5) Tennessee Williams 6) 1984 7) Coldplay 8) Colditz 9) Rene Zellweger 10) Ulan Bator (Ulaanbaatar) 11) Cork 12) Curling 13) Jellystone National Park 14) Jim Morrison 15) John Lennon 16) Sir Garfield (Gary) Sobers 17) The Drunken Sailor 18) Merry Xmas Everyone 19) Tinita Tikaram 20) Dean Martin 21) Fame 22) Fujiyama or Mount Fuji 23) Highbury 24) Acropolis 25) Kenya 26) Benedict Cumberbatch 27) Robbie Coltrane 28) Emma Watson 29) Heath Ledger 30) Ben Affleck

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16. Who was the first first-class cricketer to hit six sixes off one over?

17. Who, according to the song, should we put “in the long boat ‘til he’s sober”?

18. Which song features the words “Do the fairies keep him sober for a day”?

19. Who had international success with the song ‘Twist in My Sobriety’?

20. Which ‘Rat Pack’ member said, “You’re not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on?”

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Hot

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