street smart
Jess Warren explores Cong Quynh in District 1. Photos by Angeli Castelli.
CONG QUYNH DISTRICT 1
C
ong Quynh is a chaotic and lively street, not only due to the masses of people, bikes, cars and street sellers, but also because of the layout itself. A street of three parts, it is broken up into sections joined together with busy roundabouts. This energetic street has a lot to offer, as you venture down it by foot or bike. Cong Quynh runs north-west through Pham Ngu Lao ward in District 1. Starting at the north end, where the street backs onto Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, and working your way down until reaching Tran Hung Dao, there is plenty to see. The street is named after a popular scholar under the Le-Trinh dynasty called Nguyen Quynh. After passing the bachelor level Huong Cong exam, Nguyen was renamed Cong Quynh. Although he never passed the national exam, he became famous for his humour and anecdotes. Incredibly valued, Cong Quynh had a memorial house built in his home town, as well as a street named after him.
Benh Vien Tu Du Hospital 284 Cong Quynh
The top of the street is home to the Tu Du Hospital, which specialises in reproductive health care. Spread across both sides of the road, the facilities are connected by a walkway bridge that is suspended across the stream of traffic. Outside of the hospital premises, the road is lined with street vendors. Small baskets sit overflowing with fruit and nuts, small stands attached to the front of a bicycle sell banh mi, and fresh juices for all who pass by.
Tien Dat Tra Café 274A Cong Quynh
It’s hard to pass this shop without the smell 58 AsiaLIFE HCMC
of coffee hitting you. Looking in from the outside you can see huge storage jars of coffee and tea. Selling more than 30 types of tea and coffee, you’re able to choose the beans or leaves to suit your taste and sit and enjoy a nice drink in the shop. Alternatively, you can select a product which will be packaged up in front of you, ready to take home. Eager to facilitate your every need, this small café also sells a range of teapots, cups and saucers if you need to add to your collection.
Kim Dong Bookshop 248 Cong Quynh
Heading up a staircase into this children’s book store, you may be asked to stow a large rucksack in the lockers they provide. This airy and cool shop covers two floors, stocking a range of childrens’ books, stationary, arts and crafts supplies, gifts and toys all on the first floor. Heading upstairs and you’ll find their collection of teen-manga and comics. The Kim Dong Publishing House are the largest producer and publisher of books for Vietnamese children, and publish thousands of books on a range of topics annually.
Thai Binh Market
Located on one of the two roundabouts on Cong Quynh, this busy intersection of traffic is home to a large market. The maze of stalls begins inside, and extends to the outside section of the market, where there are a variety of small stands cooking a range of food. From clothes and accessories to fresh fruit and vegetables, dried fruit and freshly prepared dishes, the Thai Binh Market is more of a locals market, as opposed to the tourist centred market of Ben Thanh. Walking past this hubbub of activity, the warm smell of cooking is unavoidable, and
you can’t help but be drawn to the barbeque aroma as it wafts over the street.
Ho Chi Minh City Blind Association 185 Cong Quynh
Directly opposite the market sits the Blind Association, which offers a Vietnamese traditional massage. Heading through what appears to be a parking area for mopeds and bikes, you reach a set of stairs on the left-hand side. At the top of the old staircase sits a receptionist for the Blind Association, where you can pay 80,000VND for an hourlong massage in an air-conditioned room.
Mobylette Saigon Hotel 190 Cong Quynh
This small hotel is set slightly off the street, and hard to miss with the wood panelling and gold sign which stand out from the surrounding buildings. A thin and tall building that offers hostel style accommodation with only ten rooms, you can either book a dorm for US$9 or a private room for US$25. Right next to a western-style BBQ restaurant, and metres from the start of Bui Vien Walking Street, Mobylette Saigon Hotel is targeting the backpacker audience, and seem to be doing so successfully as the abundance of mopeds parked outside would suggest.
Zeus Greek Souvlaki 164 Cong Quynh
The mythological Zeus Greek restaurant has a colourful green interior and exterior, offering an extensive range of food. Moussaka, pastichio, gyros pita, the original Greek kebab and giouvetsi are all on the menu, catering for vegetarians and meateaters alike. Proud of their fresh ingredients, Zeus also produce a range of homemade feta and yogurt products. With a growing