Seduzione Senza Tempo by Assocoral

TIMELESS SEDUCTION 永恒的诱惑

T I M E L E S S SEDUCTION

Organized by:

永恒的诱惑

Coral and Cameo between Memory and Modernity

游弋於记忆及现代的珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕

The legacy of the past, in both historical and artistic terms, is within us. We view the world through the prism of our knowledge, experience, education and memories.

“ 过去 ”的遗产，不论历史还是艺术，都是我们的一部分。我们的看法总会被以前的知识、经验、教育及记忆影响。

Every project, every creative process, bears a trace of the legacy of the past, sometimes unconsciously, sometimes deliberately, which is one of the ingredients in the cocktail that is the Zeitgeist, the "spirit of the time": the culture, philosophy and mood of the specific period when the creation is brought into existence, whether it be a work of art, jewellery, decoration or fashion. In it the indelible marks of our collective heritage in terms of what it is to be human, what has existed and what has been done over time, as that has filtered down into each and every one of us, re-emerge.

我们做的每件事情，每个有创造力的工作，都蕴含着过去在当下的映照，有时无意识，有时有意识，但都融合为黑格尔所说的“ Zeitgeist ”—“ 时代精神 ” ：无论艺术作品、珠宝创作、装饰创意乃至时尚设计，自诞生之际便浸染了那个时代的文化、思虑和感受。在历史中我们存在和行动，历史的传承同时生根发芽。

Cristina Del Mare

Exhibition concept, curation and texts Cristina Del Mare Coordinator Fiammetta De Simone Graphic design / photolithography Studio Grafico Roberto Scandola

Sponsored by:

Supported by:

Special thanks to the companies who took part in the exhibition: Antonino De Simone srl Borriello'75 srl Cameo Italiano Cimmino Srl Condito Giovanni srl Condis Coral Orafa Mediterranea srl Coscia srl De Simone Fratelli srl Del Gatto srl Enemi Europe Gioielli sas Ciaravolo Enzo Liverino 1894 srl Eva srl Idea Coral srl Lello Orlando Mattia Mazza srl Mondial Coral srl Rovian Jewels Pellegrino Francesco Rajola spa Salvatore Collaro srl Special thanks to: Alexander McQueen ALTAROMA Caterina Balivo Gianni De Benedittis Marella Ferrera Maison Gattinoni Next Models Paolo Leone Luciano Pedicini Sarli Couture Giampaolo Sgura Guido Taroni Maison Valentino

克里斯蒂娜·德尔马

对旧时光的呼应，并非对怀旧（nostalgia）的诉求，亦非对往昔时尚的机械式重演。它是我们对记忆的重新估量，引导我们重新认识伦理和审美。集体记忆所表达的世事，超越了个人感知的界限。这些“ 文化记忆 ”帮我们理解现在的身份。正如人类学家博厄斯（Franz Boas）所说，“ 任何艺术作品都是普世的，展现了它的原生文化。”

Reference to the past is not an appeal to nostalgia, a tired replay of out-dated models - it is rather a re-evaluation of our collective wealth of knowledge, leading to a new ethical and aesthetic awareness. Our collective memory holds within its aspects that

可能出乎一些人的意料，在历史和当代、文化传统和革新之间，并没有简单对抗或者对立。古典工艺品往往闪烁着现代性的光辉，而当代创作则回响着传统的古典宏声，两者因而在当代艺术、珠宝及时尚臻品中达成共生与和谐。

Bracelet shown the allegory of Cupid, influenced by neoRenaissance taste. Mediterranean coral, gold. Manufactured in Naples. 1840-60. ENZO LIVERINO COLLECTION

任何形式的艺术，形象化的或者是应用性的，均可视作一个无限的容器，

手镯呈现出丘比特的寓言故事，受新文艺复兴时期的风格影响。地中海珊瑚及黃金。1840-1860年，意大利那不勒斯制造。 ENZO LIVERINO COLLECTION

go beyond the individual experience: it is a "cultural memory" that helps us to understand our current identity. In the words of the anthropologist Franz Boas: "A work of art is universal, but it is an expression of the culture that produced it."

Cameo portraying “Cupid’s Forge”. Pacific coral. Manufactured in Naples, late 19th century. This important cameo is inspired by a theme found at Pompeii in the House of the Vettii. ANTONINO DE SIMONE COLLECTION. “Cupid’ s Forge”浮雕。太平洋珊瑚。19世紀末，意大利那不勒斯制造。此件重要的卡梅奥浮雕由庞贝的House of the Vettii所启发。 ANTONINO DE SIMONE COLLECTION

Contrary to what one might imagine, there is no antagonism or dialectical opposition between the past and the present, between cultural tradition and innovation. Modern aspects in ancient artefacts and echoes of tradition in contemporary creations come together in harmonious synthesis in the best contemporary creations, whether they are works of art, jewellery or fashion. Art, in all its forms, be it figurative or applied, can therefore be seen as an inexhaustible repository of intangible values that live on through the ages - as a wealth of inspiration. The past continues to cast ripples into the present. In jewellery also, the memory of models and symbols that have filtered down to us, that are buried in our unconscious, a sort of mirror of our collective heritage, comes back to life in a contemporary creation. This premise is even truer for one material in particular, which among other precious metals, gold, diamonds and other gemstones, has always held a particular fascination for the collective imagination: coral, the Mediterranean gem par excellence. Thanks to its magnetic beauty, associated with its symbolism, which is of intangible value, its aesthetics, both cultural and anthropological, coral continues to this day to fascinate and be unique to a degree that goes beyond its actual market value and that makes this rare creation of Nature so valued and sought after, on a par with the most precious of jewels. Its power of attraction can be attributed to the rarity and mystery of its indefinable nature that vacillates between three kingdoms: its form points to the vegetable kingdom, its texture to the mineral kingdom and its blood red colour to the animal kingdom. The scientific classification of coral did actually remain a mystery until the Eighteenth century and was only revealed by natural scientists such as Marsili, Peyssonel and Lacaze-Duthiers, who managed to work out the biological characteristics of the tiny polyps, that associated in colonies, give life to coral.

Mediterranean coral parure. Manufactured in Naples. 1840 – 60. ANTONINO DE SIMONE COLLECTION. 地中海珊瑚套装首饰。1840-1860年，意大利那不勒斯制造。 ANTONINO DE SIMONE COLLECTION

包涵了世界幸存于今的无形价值观念，最终成为一座永不枯竭的灵感源泉。而过往一直影响到当下。珠宝也无例外。对于不同层面模型和符号的记忆埋藏在无意识中传承至今，各个时代遗产的镜像，通过当代珠宝设计重生。以上说辞对于珊瑚来说就更加贴切：这种地中海瑰宝，如其他贵金属如金、钻及宝石等，总能在大众的共同想象中激起特别的憧憬。

Since the dawn of humanity, people have seen coral as one of the most magical of materials, the bestower of the miraculous aura that has soaked up all the Universe's life forces and the ideal means of accessing and expressing the divine. Coral has been the subject of mythologies and beliefs that, all over the

珊瑚的美丽富有磁性，含蕴丰富的象征内涵，给人超乎物质本身的文化与人类学审美体验。时至今日，珊瑚仍焕发出独

world and in different periods of history, have credited it with acting like an amulet by attracting good energy and warding off evil and misfortune, by bringing good luck and, well-being, protecting the wearer's health and vitality and by conferring the blessing of abundance.

特魅力，甚至超越了其本身的市场价值，让这种稀有的自然结晶同其它最为珍贵的宝石一样被珍视和追捧。珊瑚的独特吸引力得益于其稀有性和神秘性。珊瑚摇摆在自然界三大王国之间——形状宛若植物王国成员，质地仿佛来自矿物王国，血红的颜色则代表了动物。珊瑚在自然科学中的分类归属之谜直至18世纪才正式揭晓。马斯里（Marsili）、裴松乃（Peyssonnel）和拉卡兹·杜缇（Lacaze-Duthiers）等自然科学家揭示了这种微小珊瑚虫的生物学特征，并说明珊瑚正是由珊瑚虫簇生构成的产物。

The so-called gemma purpurea, on a par with or perhaps even more than other precious materials, has been a medium through which every artistic period and cultural tradition, has been able to express a myth-making dynamic - meaning the capacity to inspire the creation of myths. Coral has served as a powerful symbol, and its symbolism has developed and expanded; these various symbolic traditions have overlapped and merged through the ages, thus combining mystical and sacred allegories with its magical and superstitious function.

Brooch. Mediterranean coral, gold 18ct, diamonds. Late XIX century. The bouquet of fruits and leaves was a naturalistic romantic trend in fashion from the middle of XIX century until the XX century CORAL ORAFA MEDITERRANEA COLLECTION 胸针。地中海珊瑚、18K黃金、钻石。于19世纪末制造。这篮子的水果和叶子是十九世纪中期至二十世纪时装界的自然浪漫潮流趋势。 CORAL ORAFA MEDITERRANEA COLLECTION

在文明之初，珊瑚对人类是一种绝对神秘的物体。在这巨大神秘主义光环之下，珊瑚成了宇宙中生命力的化身和神化理想的载体。在全世界各个社会的不同时期里，珊瑚都是吉祥的象征，代表了神启和社会信仰，能驱散邪恶和不幸，带来好运和幸福，保护生命活力和经济丰饶。

In the Ancient world of Greece and Rome, according to Pagan myth, coral was said to originate from the petrification of Medusa's blood: the Gorgon able to petrify with anyone who met her gaze, and was decapitated by Perseus. The annihilation of evil, which is intrinsically linked to coral, is meant to originate from his killing of the monster, and the contact of her blood with the seawater. This is the original archetype for all the forms of sacrifice intended to ward off evil.

Mediterranean coral necklace and branch LELLO ORLANDO 地中海珊瑚项链 LELLO ORLANDO

The Romans used coral as an amulet contra fascinationem [against evil eye], associated with the life force of the blood and its apotropaic virtues: it is considered to protect against the "evil eye", and also act as health protection and bring good luck.

在各种艺术风格和文化传统中，这种鲜红的珍宝表现出比其它贵重材料更能激发创造神话的能力。珊瑚作为象征物一向具有强大的能力，并且其象征意义不断发展和扩大；在不同时代里不同象征传统相互重叠融合，更赋予它各种神圣、神秘寓意下的魔力。

religious and profane art. In the masterpieces of Mantegna and other Renaissance masters, the branches of coral and the coral rosary around the neck of the Holy Child are both a symbol of salvation, and a premonition of the future Passion of Christ, thus emphasising Jesus's role as saviour and paying tribute to the Ancient belief that coral protects the wearer.

古希腊罗马神话曾讲述，任何凡人与蛇发女怪美杜莎目光相遇就会立刻变成石像，她的头最终被英雄柏修斯（Perseus）砍下，而从美杜莎伤口流出的血，与海水接触就化成为珊瑚。自柏修斯杀死怪物产生珊瑚开始，消灭邪恶的象征意义总是与珊瑚联系在一起。这也成为了所有以牺牲来遮煞邪恶的神话原型。

The proposed exhibition: "TIMELESS SEDUCTION, Coral and Cameo between Memory and Modernity", organised by ICE, the Italian Trade Commission for promoting Italian companies abroad and making them more international, and ASSOCORAL, the Association of the Italian companies producing coral and cameo jewellery, is intended to re-assess the uninterrupted osmoses that exist between cultural heritage linked to the coral and cameo iconography and the modern interpretations of precious artefacts made by international haute couture and contemporary goldsmiths.

In the Classical period, pagan mythology considered coral to be the expression of the balance between life and death and the possibility of rebirth. This belief is taken over by Christian mysticism, in which the coral becomes the symbol of Jesus' blood, able to avert and protect believers from evil, as depicted in paintings, in the baroque masterpieces of

古罗马人相信珊瑚有血液的生命力和避邪的能力，用它做成护身符来抵抗巫术和诅咒；他们相信随身携带珊瑚不但能保护主人不被邪恶侵害，还能保持身体健康并带来好运。在西方经典时代（500BC~400BC），希腊神话系统里就把珊瑚视为生死平衡的象征，同时也预示着重生。之后这一信仰又被基督教神秘主义传承下来，珊瑚就变成了基督宝血的符号，能够保护信徒、驱避邪恶；巴洛克时代的诸多宗教和世俗艺术作品中均对此传统有所体现。曼特尼亚（Mantegna）和众多文艺复兴大师的作品中，珊瑚树和圣婴脖子上的珊瑚念珠既象征上帝的救赎又预示基督后来的受难，强调基督救主的身份同时也呼应自古以来珊瑚保佑佩戴者的信仰。

Starting from a lively, clearly structured and totally new visual journey, visitors will enter into a fascinating and very evocative narration that interweaves memory and modernity. There will be a game of cross-references, a dialogue between moments of intersection and parallelisms that combines historical and modern images, that are highly significant and of huge visual

Satsuma coral mask, carved by Carlo Parlati. The chain is made with coral, diamonds and gold 18ct, by Romolo Grassi. ENZO LIVERINO COLLECTION

Earrings, bracelet and ring made of Mediterranean coral, rose gold 18ct and diamonds, GRETA collection. EVANUEVA

萨摩珊瑚面具，由Carlo Parlati刻制。项链用珊瑚、钻石、18K 黃金制成，由Romolo Grassi制作。 ENZO LIVERINO COLLECTION

耳环、手镯和戒指，由地中海珊瑚、18K玫瑰金、钻石所制成。 GRETA 系列. EVANUEVA

effect. Visitors will also discover surprising connections between fashion and jewellery, including precious jewellery creations in coral and cameo, and original uses for these versatile materials in contemporary fashion, accessories and costume. The iconography of coral has travelled through centuries of painting and applied art in undisputed masterpieces, from Mannerist allegory to the Baroque celebration of it as a precious talisman; it expresses spiritual and artistic themes of undeniable value, and has transcended its Mediterranean origin to win universal recognition. Visitors will see side by side the images of the magnificent branch of coral that dominates the famous altarpiece of Our Lady of Victory by Andrea Mantegna (now at Musée du Louvre) and an interpretation of the coral branch in the golden clutch with the coral handle created in 2012 by Gianni De Benedittis, of the futuroRemoto brand, for the Maison Gattinoni. Visitors will discover a drawing of a sea nymph adorned with corals, made in late 1500 by the Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti at the request of the noble family de' Medici for an allegorical ceremony, juxtaposed with the sensational dress created in 2012 by Alexander McQueen: a silk chiffon skirt with a top made with thousands of branches of coral. These two examples, that effortlessly bridge a period of almost 500 years, are a significant example of how the coral is able to embody and be the gauge of exclusivity and magnificent elegance through the ages. The juxtaposition between art and fashion continues with the Portrait of Regina Cordium, painted by Dante Gabrielle Rossetti and adorned with multiple strings of coral. This seems to have inspired the famous photographer Franco Rubartelli in the

“永恒的诱惑——游弋於记忆及现代的珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕” 展览的主办方意大利商务专员公署（ICE）和意大利珊瑚珠宝及卡梅奥浮雕工业协会（ASSOCORAL），借此重估文化遗产对于珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕造像艺术的影响，同时呈现当代珠宝匠人和高级定制时尚对于珍贵手工艺品的当代诠释。 Necklace, bracelet, ring and earrings White gold, "aka" coral, diamonds. "ICON" Collection, 2015 DE SIMONE FRATELLI

参观者从一个新颖鲜活、结构清晰的视觉旅行开始，而后就会发现自己置身于一个记忆与现代性相互交织的童话中，令人迷醉。这里涌动着各种文化镜像，记录了时空交错的瞬间，历史与当代意象在此平行对话，充满视觉冲击。参观者

项链、手镯、戒指和耳环。由K白金、日本阿嘉岛珊瑚、钻石所制成。 2015年，"ICON" 系列 DE SIMONE FRATELLI

Necklace, earrings, pendant and ring. Gold 18ct, coral, amethysts, emeralds, diamonds. “PINK FLOWERS” Collection, 2016 MATTIA MAZZA 项链、耳环、垂饰和戒指。由18K黃金、珊瑚、紫水晶、绿宝石和钻石制成。 2016年， “PINK FLOWERS”系列 MATTIA MAZZA

Necklace, earrings and brooch. White gold, gold 18ct, Mediterranean coral, diamonds. "SKIN" Collection CIARAVOLO 项链、耳环和胸针。由K白金、18K黃金、地中海珊瑚、钻石所制成。 "SKIN"系列 CIARAVOLO

shoot he did of the gorgeous Veruschka, the inspiring muse for a similar coral necklace, for Vogue in 1969.

也会发现时装和珠宝之间出人意料的联系，包括用珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕创造出的珍贵首饰和这些全能型材料在当代时装和配饰中的独创运用。

From the beginning of the Twentieth century, iconographic references to coral are taken over and translated into today's vernacular by designers of international fame: Fausto Sarli puts on the catwalk an extraordinary mise de soirée - evening dress, made from an intricate lacework of coral beads. The Valentino Fashion House has been inspired by the Art Deco graphic elements by Erté to design the decorative embroidery on a sophisticated astrakhan coat for the 2013 Fall Collection.

在数个世纪的绘画和应用艺术中，从风格主义的象征寓意到巴洛克作品中的珍贵护身符，珊瑚的意象出现在众多无可争议的杰作中；它表达着精神和艺术层面的不可否认的价值，并冲出其原产地中海沿岸, 赢得世界范围内的普遍认可。参观者会同时观赏到安德烈·曼特尼亚（Andrea Mantegna）圣坛巨作《得胜圣母（Madonna della Vittoria）》（现藏卢浮宫）中统领全画的珊瑚枝，以及詹尼·德·本笃狄提斯（Gianni De Benedittis）为意大利奢侈品牌Maison Gattinoni 旗下futuroRemoto品牌创制的黄金手盒上的珊瑚枝手柄装饰。

Visitors will also be able to admire ancient portraits set up against images of well-known celebrities of our time, from Ornella Muti to Brooke Shields, which serve as testimony to the charm that coral has been able to exercise, both in the past and in the present.

16世纪晚期，佛罗伦萨建筑师伯纳多·博塔乐迪（Bernardo Buontalenti）应美第奇（Medici）家族要求，曾绘制佩戴珊瑚的海洋仙女；该作品则毗邻亚历山大·麦昆（Alexander McQueen）于2012年设计的性感时装——丝绸雪纺半裙搭配由无数细小珊瑚枝连缀而成的上装。这两个例子，不经意间就穿越了500年的历史，显著体现了珊瑚在从古

The history of Coral is inextricably linked to that of Torre del Greco, which has identified itself with the city of Vesuvius, creating a very deep link: you cannot think of coral without thinking about Torre del Greco, and vice versa. Coral and cameo are becoming this area's leitmotif.

Necklace, earrings, ring White and rose gold, "angel skin" (boké) coral, diamonds "EUFORIA" Collection, 2015 MONDIAL CORAL - ROVIAN JEWELS 项链、耳环和戒指。由K白金、玫瑰金、 Angel Skin 珊瑚、钻石所制成。 2015年，"EUFORIA " 系列 MONDIAL CORAL - ROVIAN JEWELS

A "cultural biodiversity" is the distinctive feature of all Italian manufacturing districts like Torre del Greco, now an international capital for coral and cameo manufacturing. This pleasant south Italian city was able to reaffirm the manufacturing excellence of coral jewellery and cameo engraving, thanks to its vital and multifaceted cultural heritage. For over two centuries, in fact, Torre del Greco's expert goldsmiths have been creating jewellery that is admirable for its style, performance, elegance, preciousness and uniqueness. The artistic background and the talent with which the manual techniques are being reproposed today by the goldsmiths of Torre del Greco, with beautiful contemporary coral jewels

Japanese Moro coral parure, white gold and diamonds. "CUPIDO" Collection RAJOLA

Two pairs of earrings and a heart-shaped ring. White gold, "Aka" coral, diamonds CIMMINO – GEM FACTORY

日本摩洛珊瑚首饰套装。由K白金和钻石制成。 "CUPIDO " 系列 RAJOLA

两对耳环和心形戒指。由K白金、日本阿嘉岛珊瑚、钻石所制成。 CIMMINO – GEM FACTORY

where the coral is teamed with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, jade, coloured gemstones in a perfect synthesis of world class jewellery that has power to make the rarity of coral even more unique. This jewellery is rather special and intended to remain solely as works of art by virtue of the fine line movements, their unexpected colour combinations and their perfection in terms of the carving and setting techniques. Jewellery that transforms the idea of coral jewellery, from the old "souvenir d'Italie" into fine jewellery creations, appreciated by both great fashion designers, from Valentino to Alexander McQueen, from Sarli to Anna Sui, and by the most famous international jewellery brands, from Cartier to Boucheron, from Bulgari to JAR, Joel Arthur Rosenthal, who are increasingly using this noble and rare material in their creations.

至今都是独特和优雅的代表。艺术和时尚的平行展品还有丹蒂·加布里埃尔·罗塞蒂（Dante Gabrielle Rossetti）的《柯迪恩女王（Regina Cordium）》，该画作启用了多条珊瑚链装饰。著名摄影家弗兰科·鲁巴泰利（Franco Rubartelli）也受到了同样的启发，在他1969年为《时尚》杂志给韦茹思卡（Veruschka）拍照时，让她戴了一条相似的珊瑚项链；顿时，她犹如缪斯女神一般让人神魂颠倒。从20世纪前期开始，珊瑚的造像艺术逐步为享有国际声誉的设计师所用，汇入当代设计语言：福斯托·萨利（Fausto Sarli）就把一件用珊瑚珠精密编织的晚礼服送上了T型台。华伦天奴（Valentino）就受到埃尔泰（Erté）的装饰艺术风格元素的启发，于2013年秋季时装系列推出了有刺绣装饰的精致羔皮外套。

Japanese "Magai" coral sculpture depicting a Bacchus, made by master sculptor Ganeri. "Angel skin" (boké) coral branch and necklace. SALVATORE COLLARO 日本Magai珊瑚雕像描绘出酒神巴克斯，由雕刻大师Ganeri制作。珊瑚枝和项链由Angel Skin珊瑚制成。 SALVATORE COLLARO

Necklace and earrings. White gold, "angel skin" (boké) coral, diamonds "MOONSHAPE" Collection, 2015 DEL GATTO 项链和耳环。由K白金、Angel Skin珊瑚、钻石制成。 2015年，" MOONSHAPE " 系列 DEL GATTO

The undisputed value of the exquisite jewellery made in Torre del Greco is also confirmed by the multiple photos taken by famous photographers and published in the most prestigious fashion and jewellery magazines. The creative urge becomes art in these extraordinary creations that have been able to strike a perfect balance between innovation and the quintessentially Italian "taste for beauty" that typifies products that are 'made in Italy', that derive their strength and beauty from the legacy of cultural heritage combined with local craftsmanship, which is unique and specific to Italy.

Necklace. Gold, Mediterranean coral, diamonds COSCIA 项链。以黃金、地中海珊瑚、钻石制成。 COSCIA

Torre del Greco's tradition of working with coral cannot be separated from the art of carving on precious gems and cameos. Augustan cameo was already in vogue in the area of Naples in the classical period, and are remarkable for the skill with which they investigate and modify nature, through virtuosity of technique. The artisans were able to draw contrasting colour strata of jasper and sardonic conch, creating mythological and symbolic narratives with unexpected pathos and vibrant realism. The precious carvings were justly exhibited as mirabilia in Baroque Wunderkammer, and enjoyed renewed glory following the discovery of the archaeological sites at Herculaneum, in 1738.

参观者还可以看到古代肖像画与当今名流影像的对比，从奥尔内拉 ·穆缇（Ornella Muti）到波姬 ·小丝（Brooke Shields），均见证了珊瑚经久不衰的魅力。

The new cultural findings were revealing a classicism that was entirely innovative. The legacy of antiquity was being interpreted in a new way by the artist engravers, making them examples of the neoclassical period. From the Eighteenth century, the art of engraving was marked by balance, sobriety and formal composition. The interest in carving stones spread to all the courts of Europe, and was adopted by educated women, from Paolina Borghese to Carolina Bonaparte Murat, Queen of Naples, who wore cameo in parure, tiaras, bracelets or

"Bacchus", work by Giovanni Condito. Gold, "satsuma" coral, rock crystal. About 1990 CONDITO GIOVANNI

酒神巴克斯，由Giovanni Condito制作。

以黃金、Satsuma珊瑚、水晶制成。约1990年。 CONDITO GIOVANNI

珊瑚的历史与意大利以维苏威火山为标识的托雷德格雷市（Torre del Greco）紧密相连；提起珊瑚，人们一定会联想到托雷德格雷市，反之亦然。珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕正在成为这个地区的产业支柱。 “文化多样性”是意大利像托雷德格雷市这样以手工制造业为主的地区的显著特色，现在这里已成为世界珊瑚与卡梅

奥浮雕制作的首都。基于它活力四射的多元文化底蕴，这个美丽的意大利南部城市孕育了珊瑚珠宝和浮雕制造的精湛技艺。事实上，两个世纪多以来，托雷德格雷市的首饰工匠一直致力于创作同时具备风格、性能、气质、价值和独特性的珠宝臻品。托雷德格雷市首饰工匠凭借深厚的艺术造诣和高超的技艺手法，将珊瑚同钻石、祖母绿、蓝宝石、翡翠、有色宝石等组合起来，创造出当代世界级的珊瑚珠宝珍品，为珊瑚的稀有与独特更添一笔光辉。珠宝是一种特殊艺术品——优雅的线条变化、出人意表的颜色组合、完美的雕刻镶嵌技法，都注定了每一件珠宝作品的独特性。珊瑚首饰的概念亦随时代而改变，从旧时的“意大利纪念品”到精致首饰创作，受到各派时尚大师的垂青，从瓦伦蒂诺（Valentino）到亚历山大·麦昆（Alexander McQueen），从萨利（Fausto Sarli）到安娜·苏（Anna Sui）；同时珊瑚珠宝也受到各个著名国际珠宝品牌的追捧，从卡地亚、宝诗龙、宝格丽到乔尔·阿瑟·罗森塔尔（JAR, Joel Arthur Rosenthal），它们都在自己的珠宝作品里愈来愈多地用到珊瑚这种贵重和稀有的材料。

Mediterranean coral necklace. CONDIS

托雷德格雷市制造的珠宝常经著名摄影师拍摄，登上最负盛名的时装珠宝杂志，无疑是对其价值的最佳注脚。

地中海珊瑚项链 CONDIS

这些非凡作品中的艺术创新与典型的“意大利制造”所特有的“美的品味”达成了完美的平衡。意大利文化遗产和当地精湛匠人手艺的结合造就了“意大利制造”的独特之处。

simply pinned them to their belts. These cameo pieces depicted a variety of subjects: aristocratic portraits, subjects from Herculaneum and mythology, feminine profiles, Bacchantes and Nymphs.

拿巴·穆拉特（Carolina Bonaparte Murat，拿破仑的妹妹），均成套佩戴卡梅奥及其他卡梅奥头冠、手镯，或者干脆别在她们的腰带上。这些卡梅奥浮雕饰品的内容广泛，有贵族肖像、赫库兰尼姆古城及神话题材、女性侧像、酒神人物和仙女等。

So the appeal of coral and cameo can be described as a "timeless seduction", as it has persisted intact through changing eras and styles, capturing the imagination, thanks to its magnetic beauty and its multiple symbols, that have defeated the fickle changes of fashion, by rising to the challenge of innovation through new and unexpected forms, now just as in the past. Coral and cameo have been able to generate new formal codes and modern interpretations, showing an implicit ability to communicate values and meanings, that are recognizable and that characterise the stylistic identity of each and every item of jewellery.

在19世纪，对浮雕饰品的需求日益增长，托雷德格雷市出现了成规模的雕刻学校和不计其数的雕刻学习班，其中诞生了一系列超凡珠宝雕刻艺术作品。在20世纪，宝石雕刻作品所展示的题材受到自由女神和装饰艺术风格作品的启发，雕刻师的想象不再受到束缚，他们把贝壳的不规则发挥到了极致，实现了最引人注目的对比反差效果。

The strong tradition of high quality of things done well, which is typically Italian and recognised throughout the world, is due to the fact that we have defined "cultural biodiversity", as being what qualifies some Italian manufacturing districts. This is a hugely attractive quality that has moulded Italian creat i v e

今天，同样的专业知识和雕刻手法依然被应用到当代卡梅奥浮雕中。雕刻师把自己浸染在历史记忆里，同时通过流行文化和时尚解读当代的风格，破除“奶奶的首饰”之类的旧观念，再重新创造出独领时代风格的宝石雕刻奢华意境。至此，珊瑚与卡梅奥浮雕的吸引力经久不衰，可以说是 “永恒的诱惑” ，

托雷德格雷市的珊瑚手工艺传统与宝石及卡梅奥雕刻艺术历史密不可分。奥古斯都式（Augustan）的卡梅奥浮雕饰品在古典时期便在那不勒斯地区十分流行，并已经表现出工匠对材料质地和颜色分布的细致研究和精湛的制作技艺。当时的工匠善于利用碧石的不同层面和海螺壳纹理的颜色反差，创造出有关神话和象征性的叙事图案。这些图案既逼真又充满感情和活力。

During the nineteenth century, the increase in the demand for cameo led to the opening of engraving schools and numerous workshops in Torre del Greco, from which emerged extraordinary works of art in engraving and jewellery. In the Twentieth century, the subjects depicted in engravings were inspired by more daring models of the Statue of Liberty and Art Deco styles, giving free rein to the engraver's imagination and to their skill in making the most of the irregularities in the shell to achieve the most striking contrasts.

这些珍贵的雕刻在 1 7 3 8 年赫库兰尼姆（ H e r c u l a n e u m ）古城的考古发掘中被一并发现，并在巴洛克时代的珍奇屋（ W u n d e r k a m m e r , 博物馆前身）作为 “奇迹” （Mirabilia）展出，重新焕发光彩。

Today that same expertise and engraving still is applied to modern cameo. Artist engravers are imbued with the memory of their own history and interpret contemporary style with new codes gleaned from the iconography of pop and fashion, shaking off the connotations of "grandma's jewellery" and reinventing the cameo as a luxury, up-to-the-minute luxury jewel.

新的文化研究结果揭示了一个完全创新的古典主义。古董的动人之处被艺术雕刻家重新诠释，使其成为新古典主义的典范。从18世纪以来，雕刻艺术就以平衡、沉稳和几何形式组合表现手法为标志。在欧洲，对宝石雕刻的兴趣传遍欧洲大小宫廷，成为当时有良好教养的贵妇们的习惯，从保利纳· 贝佳斯（Paolina Borghese）到那不勒斯王后卡罗琳·波

Rings and earrings in white gold, "angel skin" (boké) coral, blue sapphires and diamonds. Necklace "angel skin" (boké) coral, white gold and diamonds. IDEA CORAL 戒指和耳环由K白金、Angel Skin 珊瑚、蓝宝石、钻石制成。项链由Angel Skin珊瑚、K白金、钻石制成。 IDEA CORAL

其价值在各个时代风格流变中一直完整无损一样，引人入胜；它富有磁性的美感和多样的象征含义，使其在善变的时尚中始终能够推陈出新，立于不败之地。卡梅奥还不断产生新的创作范式和现代诠释，表现出一种能够交流价值和意义的内在能力，既便于辨认，又便于刻画每件珠宝的风格标识特征。

identity of an area that is still to this day identified as Torre del Greco in the world. If we want to survive in the rapid and confused state of flux of our time, we need to reflect in depth about the production concept, take a semantic leap to revitalise the ongoing relationship between tradition and innovation. When all the practices, gestures, technical skills and technologies succeed in being incorporated in the cultural matrix, that is when the "beauty" of a precious artefact, of a jewel, becomes recognisable and by extension, intrinsically "good" too, within the terms of the Ancient Greek term of kalokagathia - beauty and goodness: the ideal of perfection, and the genuine fusion of aesthetic and ethical values according to the rules of the art, and then it is possible to rediscover and rework the richness of the tradition that generated that cultural matrix.

享誉世界的意大利式坚守质量的传统，正源自对于“文化多样性”的理解，维护着意大利各传统手工制造业地区的特色。这也是托雷德格雷之所以至今仍然保有巨大的创造力，保有世界级卡梅奥产地的地位。

Earrings. White gold, hand carved cameos, black marble, diamonds. “BIRTH” Collection Bracelet. Rose gold, hand carved cameos, purple sapphires. “LUCKY” Collection Ring. Rose matt gold, hand carved cameos, purple sapphires. “SYMPOSIUM” Collection BORRIELLO ‘75 耳环。由K白金、手工卡梅奥浮雕、黑大理石、钻石制成。 “BIRTH”系列手链。由玫瑰金、手工卡梅奥浮雕、紫色蓝宝石制成。 “LUCKY”系列戒指。由哑光玫瑰金、手工卡梅奥浮雕、紫色蓝宝石制成。 “SYMPOSIUM”系列 BORRIELLO‘75

如果想要在瞬息万变的世界幸存下来，须深思产品概念，激活传统和创新之间的关系。当所有的实践、姿态，技巧技术等成功地融合于文化母体时，艺术品的“ 美 ”，无论是一件工艺品或是珠宝，便可以被认知；进一步引申下去，“美”的本质上也是“善” ，就如古希腊术语“kalo k a g a t h i a ”说的一样， “ 美而良善 ”— 理想的完美，意味着在艺术规则下审美和伦理价值的真正融合；如此，才有可能重新发现文化母体所孕育的丰富传统。

In the blurred flow of the now, a desire can be felt to retell the story, to give things an intrinsic identity, a new meaning. There is a yearning for a new type of creativity.

在当下的混沌洪流之中，解构重述传统能赋予崭新的认同，萌生新的意义。这便是当代对新型创意工作的渴慕。

The memories, the imprint left by things, flow with time, creating other realities and other visions. The future can be found in everything that has a great past. To paraphrase Kierkegaard: "A work of art can be understood only with reference to the past, but it must reach out towards what does not yet exist".

记忆，即事物留下来的痕迹，顺着时间流淌，创造着另一种现实、另一种镜像。拥有伟大过去的事物才会被未来认可。祁克果（Kierkegaard）曾说： “艺术作品只有在参考过去时才能被理解，但它又必须向那还未存在的时空伸展出去。”

Mediterranean Coral Necklace PELLEGRINO 地中海珊瑚项链 PELLEGRINO

Giovanni Sabbato. Outstanding full surface engraved conch, depicting "The finding of Moses". XIX century DE SIMONE FRATELLI COLLECTION

Three brooches. Hand carved cameos on sardonic shell (Cassis Madagascariensis), gold 18ct, white gold, diamonds, mother of pearls. DEL GATTO COLLECTION

Giovanni Sabbato 精致的海螺雕刻，描绘出“The Finding of Moses” 。十九世紀。 DE SIMONE FRATELLI COLLECTION

三件胸针，手工Sardonic贝壳卡梅奥浮雕 (Cassis Madagascariensis)。由18k黃金、K白金、钻石、珍珠母制成。 DEL GATTO COLLECTION

p Andrea Mantegna Altarpiece of Our Lady of Victory (detail), 1496. © Musée du Louvre, Paris

Gianni De Benedittis for Futuro Remoto, Maison Gattinoni. 2012. Golden clutch with pink coral handle. Courtesy Futuro Remoto

安德烈·曼特尼亚《得胜圣母》（部分），1496年 © Musée du Louvre, Paris

p Alexander McQueen. Spring/Summer Collection 2012 Silk chiffon dress with coral branches applications. © Fairchild Photo Service/Condé Nast/Corbis

p Bernardo Buontalenti. De Medici's allegory of a sea nymph. ca. 1580. Florence, Biblioteca Nazionale

伯纳多·博塔乐迪為美第奇家族绘制的海洋仙女，約1580年意大利佛罗伦斯国立中央图书馆

亚历山大·麦昆 2012年春夏季时装系列丝绸雪纺連身裙搭配细小珊瑚枝 © Fairchild Photo Service/Condé Nast/Corbis

詹尼·德·本笃狄提斯， Futuro Remoto， Maison Gattinoni。 2012年。黄金手盒連珊瑚枝手柄装饰。相片由Futuro Remoto 提供

p Maison Valentino. Haute Couture, Fall Collection 2013. Damask silk dress reproducing corals and shells decorations. © Fairchild Photo Service/Condé Nast/Corbis

p Maison Valentino. Haute Couture. Fall Collection 2013. Black astrakhan coat with silk embroidery. © Fairchild Photo Service/Condé Nast/Corbis

Romain de Tirtoff, aka Erté. Gouache on paper depicting coral earring. 1932. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art © METMUSEUM, New York

p Gerard Vicario. Circus Dadaist costume. ca. 1940 Marseille, MuCEM, Musée des Civilisations del’Europe et de la Méditerranée Photo © RMN-Grand Palais (MuCEM) / Franck Raux

Sarli. Spring - Summer Collection 2011. Silk dress cover by coral beads lace. Courtesy Altaroma / R. Soccio / L. Sorrentino

p Marella Ferrera. Summer Collection 2010 Silk chiffon dress with coral beads embroidery. Courtesy Marella Ferrera Marella Ferrera，2010年夏季时装系列。丝绸雪纺连身裙搭配珊瑚小珠刺绣。由Marella Ferrera提供

福斯托•萨利，2011年春夏季时装系列珊瑚珠织成蕾丝覆盖丝质连身裙 Courtesy Altaroma / R. Soccio / L. Sorrentino

p George Barbier, Sketch of silk dress with petticoat linen, Costumes Parisien, n. 61, 1913. © Private Collection The Stapleton Collection/Bridgeman Images

George Barbier, 真丝连身裙配亚麻衬裙, Costumes Parisien, n. 61, 1913年. © Private Collection The Stapleton Collection/Bridgeman Images

t Dante Gabriele Rossetti, Joli Coeur, 1867. Manchester, City Art Gallery. © Manchester Art Galleries, UK/ Bridgeman Images 丹蒂· 加布里埃尔·罗塞蒂，1867年 Joli Coeur

pGuilliam van Deynen. Genovese Lady's portrait with coral necklace. Ca. 1650 Genoa, Musei di Strada Nuova, Palazzo Bianco, © Musei di Strada Nuova Guilliam van Deynen. 热那亚女士配珊瑚项链的画像。約1650年 Genoa, Musei di Strada Nuova, Palazzo Bianco, © Musei di Strada Nuova

pDomenico Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Young Girl.1494. London, National Gallery ©National Gallery, London, UK / Bridgeman Images Domenico Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Young Girl. 1494年

p Caterina Balivo with a Magay pink coral nacklace. Courtesy Photo Flash, Capri Caterina Balivo戴上粉红珊瑚项链由Photo Flash, Capri 提供

p Veruschka with Mediterranean coral necklaces. Vogue Italia, April 1967. Photo by Franco Rubartelli © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis 韦茹思卡与地中海珊瑚项链意大利《时尚》杂志，1967年4月号 Photo by Franco Rubartelli © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis

t Dante Gabriele Rossetti. Regina Cordium.1860. Johannesburg, Art Gallery ©Johannesburg Art Gallery, South Africa/Bridgeman Images

Tibetan woman with traditional coral ornaments (Kham Region – China) © Photo C. Del Mare 藏族女子配戴传统珊瑚首饰(中国西藏康区） © Photo C. Del Mare q

p English School, Lady in Black. 1638. Berwick-upon-Tweed, Borough Museum and Art Gallery ©Berwick-upon-Tweed, Borough Museum and Art Gallery.UK/ Bridgeman Images English School, "Lady in Black". 1638年.

t Firmin Massot, Josephine Bonaparte. 1812. Rueil Malmaison, Musée National des Châteaux de Malmaison © Musée National des Châteaux de Malmaison Firmin Massot, Josephine Bonaparte. 1812年.

t Alonso Sánchez Coello, Isabel Clara Eugenia (detail). Ca. 1580. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado © Prado Madrid, Spain / Bridgeman Images Alonso Sánchez Coello, Isabel Clara Eugenia（部分）。約1580年。

t Parmigianino (Francesco Mazzola), Turkish Slave. 1532. Parma, Galleria Nazionale © Galleria Nazionale, Parma. /Flammarion/ Bridgeman Images 弗兰西斯科•帕尔米贾尼诺， “Turkish Slave”. 1532年.

pPietro Milani, Theodosia Ogilvie. 1859. © Mitchell Library, State Library New South Wales / Bridgeman Images Pietro Milani, Theodosia Ogilvie. 1859年.

pSandro Botticelli, Simonetta Vespucci. 1480 – 1485. Frankfurt Städelsche Kunstinstitut und Städtische Galerie © Stadelsches Kunstinstitut, Frankfurt am Main, Germany / Bridgeman Images

pMirte Maas for Anna Sui Spring 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at New York Lincoln Center. Spring Summer Collection 2013 © Edward Le Poulin/Corbis

Claire Windsor, silent movie actress, ca. 1925. © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis Claire Windsor，无声电影女演员，约1925年. © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/Corbis u Xiao Wen Ju for Anna Sui Spring 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at New York Lincoln Center. Anna Sui - Spring Summer Collection 2013. © Edward Le Poulin/Corbis 雎晓雯于梅賽德斯—奔驰纽约时装周中的安娜•苏2013年春夏季时装展安娜•苏2013年春夏季时装系列 © Edward Le Poulin/Corbis q

p Harper's Bazaar, Cover Page. November 1956. 《时尚芭莎》1956年11月號，封面

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