Aucoin Hart Magazine

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JEWELERS MAGAZINE

The Aucoin Hart Tradition Jewelry Trend Report Gorgeous Gold Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy World of Beauty — David Yurman

Marco Bicego’s

Delicacies

© D.YURMAN 2014

CREATORS OF FINE JEWELRY SINCE 1927

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The Aucoin family: Crystalyn, Ryan, Donna, Tommy Sr., Tommy Jr., Tricia

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Dear Friends: Every Great Story begins with a spark of inspiration. The spark of inspiration for us at Aucoin Hart Jewelers is, without a doubt, you…our customer. Your stories help drive our passion for the pursuit of perfection, to deliver exquisite fine jewelry, paired with our knowledgeable staff who consistently strive to deliver an exceptional experience.

We know the gentleman shopping for a beautiful ring is looking for a symbol to mark the lifelong story of true love.

The wife looking for the gift may end up selecting a timepiece that becomes a chapter in a special bond built over generations. A couple shopping for a diamond necklace could be choosing a piece that becomes an introduction to the tale of a cherished moment or anniversary. The words that fill the pages in our family history have a common thread — you. Our customers write the stories that we enjoy every day- filled with love, happiness and wonderful memories of special moments. We are honored and happy that you provide us with the spark.

From the newest collections by the most world-renowned designers in the industry to exclusive Aucoin Hart jewelry designed and hand-crafted inside our workshop right here on Metairie Road, we are excited, once again this year, to offer you the most dynamic treasures we’ve discovered.

Please enjoy this latest issue of Aucoin Hart Jewelers Magazine, with our compliments. May this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. We look forward to providing you the same personal attention as you’ve come to expect from Aucoin Hart Jewelers year after year. Thank you for making Aucoin Hart Jewelers part of your life.

Sincerely, The Aucoin Hart Family

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60 YEARS OF CONTINUOUS INSPIRATION IN THE PURSUIT OF TECHNICAL PERFECTION

Heritage Black Bay is the direct descendant of TUDOR’s technical success in Greenland on the wrists of Royal Navy sailors.

60 years later, the Black Bay is ready to stand as its own legend.

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY® Self-winding mechanical movement, waterproof to 200 m, 41 mm steel case.

Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more.

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Welcome The Aucoin Hart Tradition Behind the Scenes at Aucoin Hart Mikimoto’s Modern Classics What’s New at Aucoin Hart Marco Bicego’s Delicacies David Yurman’s World of Beauty Preville — Pretty in Penny Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy Jewelry Trend Report Pearl Trends Gorgeous Gold Time Writers Man About Town William Henry — Crafting an Heirloom TUDOR — Built for Adventure Aucoin Hart Gift Ideas The Forevermark Promise Your Aucoin Hart Wedding Planner

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer Kyle Boyer • Designer Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography Michael Palumbo • Store Photography *Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

Aucoin Hart Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2014, Tufts Communications.

All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

M A G A Z I N E

Beauty

natural

Fa n c y C o l o r e d D i a m o n d s Rare, precious and set in platinum

exclusively at Aucoin Hart Jewelers

The new EBEL Wave, shown in 18K yellow gold & two-toned stainless steel, hers with diamonds.

The collection, intelligently priced from $1,500.

©2014 EBEL – Men’s Ref. 1216202 $1,900 and Women’s Ref. 1216198 $3,500

EBEL.COM

THE WAVE REIMAGINED. UNDENIABLY EBEL.

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The Aucoin Hart Tradition Aucoin Hart Jewelers helps people celebrate the special moments in their lives with hand selected — or hand made — treasures

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Aucoin Hart Jewelers began with a very simple concept: to establish

serving the customer base of Hart Jewelers. “That was the beginning of

a family tradition of helping people celebrate the important moments in

my grandfather’s vision to provide a great shopping experience to a new

their lives with the world’s most beautiful jewelry and timepieces. Three

and emerging neighborhood,” says Tommy. “His energy and enthusiasm

generations later, that vision has been refined and expanded upon by

for celebrating his customers’ most important moments was contagious.

the Aucoin family. “Our passion is creating a memorable experience for

He quickly built a reputation for what we are today.”

everyone who comes into our store,” says Tommy Aucoin Jr., president

By the late 1960s, the second generation of Aucoins, Tommy and

of Aucoin Hart Jewelers. “It’s a combination of enthusiasm and expertise

Michael, had joined their father in the business, where Bert and his wife,

that gives you the feeling you have come to the right place to find the

Hazel, still worked side by side. In 1972, Bert Aucoin passed away sud-

perfect treasure to commemorate the milestones in your life.” This tra-

denly in the store that he so deeply loved and cherished, and Hazel made

dition is complemented by the skills of a talented staff whose credentials

the decision to keep the store and continue her husband’s dream. Her

are second to none and an expanded showroom that makes comfortable

son, Tommy, and his wife, Donna, committed to working at her side,

luxury a priority.

much like Bert and Hazel had done decades before. Today, the third

The Aucoin Hart story began in 1957 when Bert Aucoin, who trained

generation, Tommy Jr. and Ryan, work alongside their father, continuing

as a watchmaker, purchased Hart Jewelers, where he had worked for

the family’s culture and philosophy of personal service, trust and value.

several years. He moved it to its current location on Metairie Road, and

“My parents set out to make Aucoin Hart more than just a store where

with a strong desire to keep “Hart” in the name, he was able to continue

you could buy fine diamond jewelry. They wanted Aucoin Hart to be the

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authority on diamonds, and they set about to define our quality standards

craftsman, who operate in a new, state-of-the-art workshop, equipped

by the type of merchandise we carry. My parents refined my grandfather’s

with CAD systems and casting equipment.

vision to include great value and a wide selection, including pieces that

The Aucoin Hart cast of exceptional professionals includes Rolex cer-

are unique, that you won’t find elsewhere.”

tified watchmakers, award winning designers and GIA educated sales

Indeed, Aucoin Hart has grown to prominence as a full-service jeweler

associates, who make a valuable contribution to the Aucoin family cul-

and diamond house, importing exquisite gems from the world’s leading

ture of passion, excellence and attention to detail. “We put a tremendous

diamond cutters. “We want to build relationships based on trust. Part of

amount of energy into finding the best, from talented artisans and gem-

doing that is to provide exceptional jewelry and the most knowledgable

ologists to professional sales people who share our vision of delivering an

staff possible,” says Tommy. “Our diamonds are a big part of that strategy.

exceptional experience,” says Tommy.

We choose only the finest in the world, and our buying power gives us

Part of this experience is the opportunity to participate in the creation

access to the best prices.” Aucoin Hart is one of only a handful of jew-

of your own piece of custom jewelry. Aucoin Hart is uniquely capable

elers in the U.S. that is qualified as an authorized dealer of Forevermark

of creating, on the premises, a wide selection of exclusive jewelry. “Our

diamonds. Only carefully selected diamonds are eligible to carry the For-

workshop is a hub of activity and creative energy,” says Ryan Aucoin,

evermark brand — in fact, only 1% of diamonds mined in the world meet

vice president of Aucoin Hart Jewelers. “We have assembled an amazing

the standards — and only certain retailers are selected to sell them.

team of designers, master jewelers, stone setters, wax carvers, polishers

Aucoin Hart is equally selective when it comes to the brands it wishes

and graduate gemologists — a lot of talent under one roof! They will work

to represent. They include Rolex, David Yurman, Marco Bicego, Mi-

with you each step of the way to create a piece just for you,” says Ryan.

kimoto and Penny Preville. “We have built a reputation for service, selec-

The newly expanded, nearly 10,000 square foot Aucoin Hart store is

tion and value, and for our selection of beautiful diamonds,” says Tommy.

now big enough to incorporate a large showroom (4,000 square feet),

“Our jewelry is a combination of the top global brands and fine jewelry

but the space remains intimate. It is conveniently divided into sections,

that we have created, designed and manufactured in our workshop,” says

including a bridal area with an extraordinary selection of the classic

Tommy. Many of the 50 staff members are credentialed designers and

styles and today’s hot trends, a David Yurman boutique and a Rolex

Aucoin Hart Jewelers circa 1957.

New Rolex Boutique.

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boutique that displays the complete collection of timepieces made by

sion to expand in place. Eight months later, Aucoin Hart created the AH

this legendary brand. There are also private diamond viewing rooms and

Foundation to help the Greater New Orleans area and its people.

seating areas where you can relax while your jewelry is being cleaned or

“What it all comes back to, for us as a family, is the ability to help

your timepiece serviced.

people select a piece of jewelry or a timepiece to celebrate one of the

The recent expansion of Aucoin Hart Jewelers is a testament to the

special moments in their lives, and doing it with the confidence that we

Aucoin family’s confidence in the strength and resilience of the commu-

are offering them the finest,” says Tommy. “We accept this privilege

nity. The aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in 2005 was devastating for

with the greatest sense of pride, care and responsibility. We now get to

so many reasons, including the uncertainty that followed in its wake.

share those moments with second and third generations of customers. It

But Aucoin Hart re-opened its doors just 29 days after the storm passed

is a true joy for us to continue the tradition established by my grand-

over the city, and shortly thereafter made a further commitment to New

father and my parents, and to celebrate with customers whose parents

Orleans with its expansion plans. “There’s a wonderful pulse and great

and grandparents also commemorated their happiest moments with a

growth opportunity in New Orleans,” says Tommy of the family’s deci-

treasure from Aucoin Hart.”

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luxury automobiles

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exceptional artistry

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David White, Master Jeweler

Behind the Scenes

at Aucoin Hart Jewelers

A little bit of magic goes into every piece of beautiful jewelry, and at Aucoin Hart Jewelers, that magic is enabled by the real-life work of a talented team of world class artisans. The pool of talent working behind the scenes at the Aucoin Hart workshop includes highly trained designers, master jewelers, gem setters, wax carvers, polishers and graduate gemologists. They are passionate about what they do, and dedicated to the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship.

By strictly controlling each step of our jewelry manufacturing process, from design, model making and casting to finishing, we are able to offer exceptionally fine crafted jewelry at extraordinary values. Through each step of our transparent process, you are invited to follow the creation of your Aucoin Hart jewelry and see your piece come to life!

A custom piece often begins with the selection of a special gemstone, and that’s where our resident “rock hound” David Yee comes in. David, who holds a Graduate Gemologist degree from the Gemological Institute of America, brings over 35 years of experience to his post as head gemologist for Aucoin Hart. He knows just about everything there is to know about gemstones and may very well be sitting on some great gem he has excavated from a far corner of the earth, just waiting to find its way into a piece of custom jewelry.

From start to finish, each piece of jewelry made in our workshop is designed and created using the finest materials and gemstones available, and everything is finished according to the principles of fine jewelry craftsmanship. This same level of expertise and attention to detail is applied to the jewelry that you take to us for restoration, repair, redesign or even just cleaning. We will check for loose stones and help ensure that your treasured heirlooms last a lifetime. If you have a sentimental watch that needs repair, we can handle that too. Our Rolex trained and certified watchmaker, Joseph Toujouse, has been working on the most sophisticated watch calibers for 25 years. He knows movements inside and out, and brings a level of expertise to his position that is second to none in this country.

We are proud of our talented team of artisans, and although you may not see them every time you visit our store, they are always working behind the scenes, ensuring that the Aucoin family culture of passion, excellence and attention to detail is more than just a dream. Let the magic begin!

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T H E KW I AT C O BBL E S TO N E C O L LE C T I ON

M I K I M OTO.CO M

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Black South Sea cultured pearl pendant with diamonds. $4,700

Mikimoto’s Modern Classics

The world’s original pearl company celebrates its heritage A century ago, Mikimoto established its first black cultured pearl farm on Okinawa Island. Since then, the brand remains the authority in the highest quality black South Sea cultured pearl.

Innovation is always at the heart of Mikimoto, as rare stones and precious metals — and, of course, pearls — combine to create contemporary classics. Mikimoto’s earrings, rings, bracelets and necklaces incorporate Akoya, as well as natural black, white, golden, multi-color or baroque South Sea cultured pearls, offering a varied palette. Classic to contemporary, everyday essentials to evening or bridal wear, each piece is a flawless example of the company’s design aesthetic. Eighteen-karat white, yellow and rose gold or platinum are used exclusively for clasps and other adornments, while the finest silk thread strings the strands.

This year, in celebration of the discovery of the Black South Sea pearl, Mikimoto has created a limited-edition set that features a multi-colored black South Sea cultured pearl necklace with detachable bracelet, embellished with a special Mikimoto anniversary clasp.

The 1914 gradient pearl set showcases the different variations and tones of black pearls — peacock, pistachio, aubergine, slate, grey, silver and midnight black with overtones of green, rose and blue.

Classic Elegance black South Sea cultured pearl and diamond earrings. $7,200 12mm x 10mm, black South Sea cultured pearl strand. $15,000

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Pura Collection The New Luxury

T h e E l e g a n c e o f C e r a m i c w i t h 1 8 k t g o l d a n d d i a m o n d s o n a s t re t c h c o i l .

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Distinctive, bold and airy diamond Fleur de Lis pendant in 18k white gold. $3,400 Captivating harmony of color.

Pink mother of pearl, amethyst and diamonds set in 18k rose gold by Doves.

Pendant $3,650 Ring $3,450

What's New At Aucoin Hart Jewelers

From the newest collections by the most world-renowned designers in the industry to exclusive Aucoin Hart jewelry designed and hand-crafted inside our workshop right here on Metairie Road, we are excited, once again this year, to offer you the most dynamic treasures we’ve discovered.

Vintage-Style fashion in 14k white gold.

Earrings $1,450 Ring $3,250 Bracelet $1,675

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Interlocking round diamond circle pendant set in 14k rose gold. $1,675

Rare pink diamonds set in 18k rose gold surrounded by brilliant white diamonds in white gold.

Earrings $5,950 Pendant $4,150

Pave set diamond bracelets in 18k gold

by Hulchi Belluni. $3,450 each

Beautiful and unique yellow gold and diamonds.

Ring $7,200 Earrings $4,150

Classic pave set diamond huggie earrings in 18k white gold. $3,950

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Natural fancy yellow and white diamonds in 18k gold from Gregg Ruth.

Earrings $13,100.

Pendant $10,200

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Stunning natural pink, yellow and white diamond ring set in 18k tri-color gold. $7,200

Elegant diamond stackable bands in 18k yellow, white and rose gold. $3,400 each

Brilliant baguette and round diamonds set in a very distinct mosaic style.

Earrings $5,350.

Bracelet $25,600

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Marco Bicego’s

Delicacies

18k hand engraved yellow gold earrings with aquamarine, from the Lunaria collection. $2,050

18k hand engraved yellow gold necklace with aquamarine, from the Lunaria collection. $10,100

Delicati and Lunaria celebrate the jeweler’s love of nature, travel and delicious baubles Marco Bicego revisits his love of nature this year with Lunaria, a collection inspired by the translucent, disc-shaped seed pods of the Lunaria flower. This unique, organic shape is beautifully interpreted by Bicego with petal-like discs of gold that are linked by chains. The surfaces of the “pods” are engraved using the brand’s signature Bulino technique, a satin finish that lends itself particularly well to the motif because it creates an organic look, an essential expression of the Marco Bicego style.

Each delicate, 18k gold petal-like element is surrounded by a carefully forged frame that is given a contrasting high polish, for an even closer resemblance to the Lunaria pod of nature. The collection includes necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings, some of which incorporate precious gemstones cut in slices to repeat the shape of the flat, petal-like gold elements.

The Delicati collection, also new, is a reflection of two things. First, it is a recognition of the trend in jewelry toward smaller, more delicate pieces that

18k hand engraved yellow gold bracelet with diamonds, from the Delicati collection. $1,490

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18k hand engraved yellow gold bracelet, from the Lunaria collection. $2,840

18k hand engraved yellow gold earrings, from the Lunaria collection. $1,310

18k hand engraved yellow gold pendant with amethyst, from the Delicati collection. $990

18k hand engraved yellow gold pendant with diamonds, from the Delicati collection. $1,430

are often worn in multiples – like a treasured assortment of pretty delicacies. Secondly, it is a celebration of Marco Bicego’s most popular collections. The designer has recreated the minute details of carefully selected models from current collections and reinterpreted them with new dimensions that are just right for our times. Delicati is also dedicated to the joy of travel, with designs taken from his creations that are named for exotic places, including Jaipur, Murano, Africa and Siviglia.

Delicati also stands for “delicate,” reflecting the tremendous care that is taken to hand craft each precious piece.

Every bracelet, earring and necklace in the collection is designed and finished by hand in Italy, using 18k gold, precious colored stones and brilliant cut diamonds. The characteristic Bulino technique of hand finishing identifies it as a Marco Bicego creation.

Marco Bicego began his training as an artisan at the atelier of his father, a master jeweler, in the Veneto region of Italy.

He went on to create his own jewelry collection more than 10 years ago, which has since become instantly recognizable for its signature multi-textured finish, and for designs that merge organic, natural forms with classic silhouettes. Each piece is made according to the tradition of Italy’s master craftsmen. “All my creations must be manipulated by hand in order for them to represent a unique and luxurious experience,” says Bicego.

18k hand engraved yellow gold earrings, from the Delicati collection. $460

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World of Beauty

David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall.

An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices of

the equestrian world — stirrups, bits, halters and other equipment used in tack.

The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s

bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights. Some are set with diamonds.

The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpreta-

tion of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a

Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance.

Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Cable Buckle bracelet with white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.

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The designer’s fall collections are inspired by motifs ranging from the equestrian world to confetti

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penny

pretty in Penny Preville’s latest designs combine the shimmer of opal and diamonds

then, she has been winning the hearts of jewelry lovers across America with her collections. Throughout the years, she has been the recipient of the Blenheim

The secret to award-winning designer Penny Preville’s pop-

Award for Continued Excellence in Design, Town &

ularity is staying attuned to fashion and culture, while adhering

Country’s Diamond Designers Excellence Award and

to her own signature style. “I believe in continuity,” says the de-

Outstanding Achievement in Advertising and Market-

signer, who is known for her intricate detail work and millegrain

ing Award and The Women’s Jewelers Association

finishing, as well as her keen sense of color. Shades of blue are

Award for Excellence in Design.

a recurring theme in her jewelry, and this year deeply saturated opal, combined with sparkling diamonds are in the forefront.

“For the new diamond pieces, I was inspired by the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s,” says Preville. “I love the grace of the curves, combined with the architectural elements of the period. That’s what brought these new pieces to life for me.”

“I’ve always found inspiration in a woman’s lifestyle. I thrive on designing pieces that can be worn every day, from day to night, as well as pieces that express a woman’s individuality.”

Her inspirations are constantly changing.

“I have studied jewelry designs and cultures

Opal is also a key gem for the designer. “I’ve incorporated

from all over the world,” she says. “I am

unique opals into my designs, as they allow me to display a

inspired by travel, architecture and art, as

rainbow palette of colors,” she says. “With an array of shades

well as different eras in history. The influ-

from midnight blue, transitioning into blue green, along with

ences on my collections span from Imperial

flashes of intense pink, these opals remind me of a sunset at the

Russia to Byzantine, Indian Raj to Art Deco.”

beach, as day turns into evening.”

Her growing list of fans includes Sofia Vergara,

Preville was one of the first winners of the Designer of the

Sandra Bullock and Jennifer Lopez.

Year award at the Jewelers of America Show in New York. Since

Asscher-cut diamond bangle (5.55tcw), in 18k white gold. $29,990

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Oval Opal Deco ring in 18k white gold with diamonds (.89cttw). $6,595

New Rendition ring in 18k white gold with diamonds (1.01tcw). $4,995 A U C O I N

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Oval Opal Deco enhancer in 18k white gold with diamonds (.65tcw). $4,185

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keeps collectors happy

New colors, jeweling and a ceramic breakthrough for Rolex

Every year, amidst a sea of online predictions and wish-list postings, watch aficionados and fans of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s new introductions. The new models introduced this year did not disappoint.

The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with red and blue Cerachrom bezel.

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The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II with a distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a challenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber 3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is ten times more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white gold, and the model is not limited.

Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium escape valve.

Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller.

and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and White Lacquer with blue Roman numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding movement, with Parachrom hairspring.

The three new versions of the Rolex Sky-Dweller.

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Female collectors are thrilled to see the new Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 collection this year, a series of three 34mm models that are gem-set, each with options that include diamonds on the bracelets as well as the cases.

Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combination with either blue or pink sapphires in two different shades — with the gems adjacent to the hour markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An anti-magnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors.

A new series of Oyster Perpetual models previewed exclusive new dials in sporty colors.

The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss features a new electric blue dial.

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster with diamonds.

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hottest trends

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C A R O L

Quality and

TREND REPORT

Jewelry trends this year are all about updated classics, innovative design and flawless quality.

innovation are the top trends in jewelry

Designers are putting a new twist on enduring styles — everything from button earrings to the cocktail ring — giving classic looks a contemporary feel. There is a growing sense of fearless creativity in jewelry design, the result of greater demand for jewelry that is unique and makes an individual statement. Designs are often built around one special gemstone, or based on shapes that make collections unique and unforgettable. This year we see everything from the sensuous curves of bamboo to the angles of urban architecture and even the shape of a 1950s television screen.

Perhaps the one over-arching trend that is evident in most fine jewelry today is a greater attention to craftsmanship across the board. The standard of quality and workmanship has notably increased, and the mark of the craftsman can be seen in even the most accessible pieces. For diamonds and gemstones, only stones with high quality, cut and color values are making the grade. Here are a few of our picks for what’s trending right now in jewelry, but don’t let the word “trend” fool you. We have chosen pieces that qualify as modern classics, guaranteed to look beautiful for years to come.

Colored Gemstones T

Tanzanite and labradorite drop earrings in 18k yellow gold by Lauren K. $3,175

he allure of colored gemstones never goes out of style, but each season brings its favorites. This year, shades of purple dominate, in tune with Pantone’s Color of the Year, Radiant Orchid. But blue is still a strong color in jewelry,

heralding a new age of popularity for fine blue sapphire and for the lighter shades of blue chalcedony and lots of aquamarine. (By the way, sapphire comes in many different colors, and being one of the hardest gems, it is highly appropriate for rings). And opal is one of the strongest gems in the jewelry market right now at all levels. Because of opal’s unique play of color, no two ever seem exactly the same, and the gem works with so many different colors of complementary gemstones (and fashions!), making it a highly versatile gem.

Aquamarine and diamond ring set in 18k yellow gold by Lauren K. $3,950

Traditional precious color with brilliant diamonds set in white gold.

Ruby ring $3,875 Sapphire ring $2,475

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this year, no matter what the style

hottest trends

Black and White T

Black and white round diamond drop earrings set in 18k white gold. $6,450

here is something timeless, classic and elegant about black and white, the world’s most sophisticated color combination. In jewelry, it reignites the styles of the Art

Deco era, with diamonds and onyx or black sapphire. Today, many more gems are available to create the elegance of black and white, including white sapphires, white or black spinel. And styles are not just Art Deco but also Bohemian Chic, with long necklaces, hand crafted chains and even blackened metals for an edgier look. Black and white can be worn with virtually anything, and will never, ever go out of style.

Black and white diamond huggie earrings in white gold. $3,600

Diamonds D

iamonds are the single most important gem in fine jewelry and timepieces, and have never been more popular. In both bridal

and fashion pieces, there is a trend toward large cushion-shaped diamonds surrounded by halos of smaller gems, often colored diamonds or even colored gemstones, as well as white diamonds.

Diamond slices are also still popular, lending a contemporary mosaic feel to fine fashion jewelry. There are some classic diamond segments that will never go out of style: right hand rings, long necklaces with stations of diamonds, classic tennis bracelets, and ear studs. And of course, quality never goes out of David Yurman silver and diamond earrings. $4,200

style. Look into picking a special cut that gives a diamond maximum sparkle or brilliance.

Baguette and round diamond huggie earrings set in 18k white gold. $5,700 Diamond bangle bracelet set in white gold. $14,800

Large diamond hoop earrings set in white gold. $3,450

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Rose quartz, amethyst and white topaz earrings in rose gold by B Couture. $585

Earrings H

alos, diamond studs, drops, buttons, doorknockers and line earrings — anything goes in earrings right

now, as they rival the cocktail ring as the must-have statement piece of the moment. The one thing they all have in common is lots of volume, with bigger gems, larger proportions — often with cut-out metals to reduce the weight — and lots of diamond sparkle. There is a greater variety of styles than ever before, with earrings now designed for every occasion: gold for every day, a bit of color for some

Lapis, mother of pearl, white topaz and diamond drop earrings set in 18k white gold. $2,975

pop, cascading diamonds for evening and diamond studs for the gym. There is no occasion that does not call for earrings. Don’t leave the house without them!

Round diamond ring in white gold. $1,575

Rings T

he cocktail ring, big, bold and unique, is hot right now. It lends itself more than any other segment to one-of-a-kind status, as

most are built around one spectacular gemstone. Today, the center stone is being complemented by other colored gemstones in new, fearless combinations of colors that have never been seen before.

The diamond ring is also becoming a lot more interesting, with designers dreaming up different ways to decorate the shanks, prongs and halo or bezel settings with special cuts, shapes and even colors, giving the diamond Natural fancy pink, yellow and white diamond ring. $21,000 (Ring on right) Natural fancy pink, yellow and white diamond ring. $41,500 (Ring on left)

right-hand-ring new life. There are also some daring new styles, such as the knuckle ring and bracelet ring.

And the practice of stacking rings — to create a different look every time — is quickly becoming a modern classic.

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Mikimoto 8mm Akoya cultured pearl and diamond pendant. $5,150

Pearls

Popular, Prized and Precious

Pearls have always been a symbol of elegance and refinement. In the past, fashion icons such as Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O were rarely photographed without their pearl necklaces. Today, pearls continue to fascinate, whether seen on Angelina Jolie, Katy Perry, Sarah Jessica Parker, the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton or even Hillary Clinton.

The most popular way of wearing pearls remains the traditional strand, long or short. Yet pearls also come in a range of colors, sizes and shapes, and have become an integral part of original and varied designs, whether classical, edgy or contemporary.

One of the fastest rising trends is to combine pearls and gemstones, creating new looks and new ways to wear them. Another popular trend in pearl fashion jewelry is the use of baroque pearls. Their unusual and freeform shapes lend themselves to a vast array of designs in brooches, earrings, pendants and bracelets. Clusters of pearls create volume and color in all types of jewelry. Even traditional strands can be dressed up or down, knotted, worn as a belt, or even combined with blackened metals for a vintage look. The possibilities for pearls are endless, depending only on the imagination of the designer.

Pearls can be natural, meaning they were formed in the oyster with no human intervention, or they can be cultured. Natural pearls are very rare and found mainly in the Gulf region of the Middle East. Understandably, they carry a hefty price tag. Cultured pearls run the gamut as far as price goes. At the least expensive end of the spectrum are freshwater pearls, ranging in color from cream to pink, from gray to lavender, and even gold hues. They are cultivated mainly in ponds and small lakes in China. Freshwater varieties are also sometimes dyed various colors for use in inexpensive fashion jewelry.

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Pearl and diamond pendant set in 18k white gold. $1,250

Pearl and diamond ring set in 18k white gold. $2,900

Pearl and diamond earrings set in 18k white gold. $1,800

Inspired by water, Mikimoto’s Ocean necklace sparkles in shades of blue sapphires and waves of radiant Akoya cultured pearls. $8,300

Mikimoto 7mm Akoya cultured pearl and diamond earrings. $4,100

The more expensive seawater pearls can be divided into three general categories: South Sea pearls from the oyster Pinctada maxima, from the warm waters off Australia, the Philippines and Indonesia, ranging from white to spectacular gold; Tahitian pearls from Pinctada margaritifera oysters in French Polynesia, ranging from black to multi-color peacock; and Akoya pearls from the Pinctada fucata oyster, grown in the cool to temperate seas near Japan and China, with a brilliant luster in cream to pink to gold.

Because pearls are organic, they require special care. They can be damaged if they come in contact with perfume, cosmetics, hairspray or household cleaners. It is good practice, therefore, to put them on last and take them off first, and then store them in a soft cloth pouch, but never in plastic because it can emit a chemical that damages the pearl’s surface. Pearls should also be worn often to let them absorb moisture from the skin, which prevents them from drying out. With a little care, these popular, prized and precious gems can be enjoyed forever.

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There’s a saying in fashion circles that if you hang onto something long enough, it comes back into style. It’s true. Of course, there’s also the corollary that if you’re old enough to have worn something the first time around, you should pass on it the second. Luckily, that part isn’t always true. Fine jewelry transcends all ages. It’s all in how you wear it.

The 1980s were all about gold. Jewelry was big, bold, and shiny, to offset big hair and bigger shoulders. The trend was ubiquitous: buttons, zippers, buckles and handbag hardware also were goldtoned, and home decor centered more on brass than chrome.

Then the 1990s came and design did an about-face. Shoulder pads gave way to slipdresses, supermodels to waifs, and big hair to bed-head. At home, brass was out and stainless steel ushered in an era of industrial luxury. And in fine jewelry, a great whitewashing had begun: yellow gold went back into the jewelry box in favor of anything diamond, silver, white gold or platinum.

But design, like history, is cyclical. Yellow gold started coming back in the aughties, and now it’s a full-on fashion force.

The World Gold Council reported gold jewelry demand in 2013 had the largest volume increase since 1997. Gold jewelry demand increased 6% in the fourth quarter of 2013 alone.

But we don’t need official figures to see that gold is hot. We saw it all over the red carpet, favored by It Girls like Lupita Nyong’o and Jennifer Lawrence.

In case you sat out the Oscars, picking up a home magazine is proof enough that yellow is in: The Epoch Times recently labeled gold “the hottest trend for 2014 home decor.”

14k yellow gold drop earrings. $775

Marco Bicego 18k yellow gold diamond link bracelet. $7,600

Of course, it’s never quite the same the second time around. Just as fashion always comes back with just enough of a subtle shift to separate the new from the old, so do home and jewelry designs. Today, gold and copper accents warm up stainless steel and nickel. Think of adding a touch of old-fashioned luxe to modern industrial chic, not a 1980s brass revival.

So, back to the original question: can you wear your Eighties gold without looking like a relic from Dynasty? Yes, but not without adding something new to bring it up to date. It’s the same rule as in fashion: one vintage piece is cool but vintage head-to-toe just looks like Grandma was your stylist.

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Earrings from the Lunaria collection by Marco Bicego. $2,510

Ebel Brasilia watch in 18k yellow gold with mother of pearl diamond dial and diamond bezel. $22,500 18k yellow gold diamond necklace. 37 inches. $5,500

Bold and Bright, Gold Is Fashion Right!

“We’re really seeing a redefinition of jewelry pieces, a reimagining of the way we wear jewelry,” says Jamie Gage of LoveGold. Earrings may climb up or cuff the ear instead of the traditional down-facing dangle, or the design may pass through the front and back of the ear. Really modern: wear just one super-bold earring, not a pair.

“We’re also seeing multi-finger rings or delicate midi rings that only go up to the first knuckle. Or hand bracelets where a delicate chain goes up and over the hand,” says Gage. “It’s all about mixing and matching and layering.”

Layering, of course, means you always have a good excuse to add to your jewelry collection. Whether it’s stacks of bangles or chains, you can pile it on for a larger look. Here are the top gold trends, below. Just remember: whatever you wear, statement making is the way to wear it, so don’t be shy.

14k yellow gold chain necklace. $1,100

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Top Trends Boho Chic This is the ultimate pile-it-on trend. Stack on rings and bangles, heap on layers of delicate chains, (especially with pendants), add dangling earrings and you’ve caught the modern romantic hippie vibe.

14k rose gold diamond circle pendant. $1,600

Sleek and Sculpted A bold power cuff sets off today’s modern minimalism. Whether it’s a tunic with sculpted space age shoulders or a modern power suit, finish it off with a power cuff in the boldest gold, or an openwork wire version that takes up volume yet still looks airy.

Links and Chains Go nonconformist chic in gold ear cuffs and studs that make a strong statement — without safety pins. The Jewelry Information Center in New York says triangles are the most trending shape in fine jewelry; perhaps taking their inspiration from the studs and pyramids of modern punk?

18k rose gold and round diamond earrings. $3,400

Rose Gold Thanks to fashion designers, rose gold has really come into its own.

While it’s always been favored in Europe, it’s finally caught on Stateside. By last summer, InStyle magazine had labeled it the #4 “must-have” fine jewelry trend, and it’s still going stronger than ever. Whether mixed with diamonds or any other metal or gem, the new “it gold” flatters almost every skin tone there is. Again, the trend crosses categories: copper accents are the rose gold of the home world.

“Yellow and rose are really having a moment,” says Gage. “People are starting to invest in fine jewelry that reads like fine jewelry.” Still, for sophisticated consumers who like the appeal of the inconspicuous, blackened or oxidized gold is precious without being obvious.

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time writers if If horology is the art of measuring time, then a chronograph watch is

There is a dizzying array of chronograph watches that are de-

the canvass. It is painted with the beauty of precious metals, glued

signed for a purpose that can range from the everyday to the few-

together with complicated components, and framed with the function

in-a-lifetime. Because of this, chronograph features may not be

of time-measuring technology. Yet the most prestigious chronograph

standard but generally can be categorized by luxury, casual and

watches aren’t the ones that make the loudest splash with a bedazzled

sport, with relative parts accordingly.

or lit up flare. The high-end pieces reserve their boldness for the

Chronograph watches exude an element of “hero” status in their

subtleties. Similar to the art world, you have to know what you’re

esteemed role as “time writers.” They regard the rich tradition of

seeing to truly appreciate the value of each piece. And when you

intricate time pieces that feature dials and wheels, but have moved

interact with this type of watch, more than you would any other, you

with modern technology to provide present day performance. You

are welcomed into a world of sweeping hands and column wheels. It

may not time an Olympic event with it, but mastering doneness on

is almost magical, the inter-workings of time keeping, and its ability

the bar-b-que will be spot on.

for the keeper to be both adept and distinguished.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Power, speed, performance. The Cosmograph Daytona celebrates its 50th birthday this year, and is every bit as bold and beautiful as it was when it was born; perhaps just a little smarter with today’s advances. The Cosmograph Daytona was introduced in 1963 and was designed to meet the demands of professional race car drivers. With its highly reliable chronograph and bezel with tachometric scale, it allows drivers to perfectly measure average speeds up to 400 miles per hour, should they choose. The 18kt Everose gold color, combined with a solid 40 mm sapphire scratch resistant case make the Daytona a sure functional statement piece.

The waterproof Oyster case is one of the foundations of the reputation for excellence of Rolex watches. It was invented by Rolex in 1926 and was the world’s first waterproof case for a wristwatch thanks to its patented system of screwing down the bezel, case back and winding crown against the middle case.

The bracelet is available in luxurious black leather or bold gold with the folding Oysterlock safety clasp. The Oysterlock clasp is a sublime blend of robust yet sophisticated engineering and smooth lines. A dual security system guards against accidental opening even in the harshest conditions. $37,450

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URBAN MINI DIAMOND, DIAMOND DIAL ON URBAN MINI BRACELET

watch works

Raymond Weil Freelancer The Freelancer is Raymond Weil’s classic sports watch, with an automatic chronograph movement with a 46-hour power reserve that includes a day/date function. The dial is given a sporty look with dashes of red – on the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours hands as well as the arrow on the date window and the numerals and indexes on the tachymeter scale. The case and bracelet are stainless steel, and the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. $2,695

TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 12 Chronograph The Monaco is TAG Heuer’s iconic racing watch, worn by actor Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. This version features a 39mm stainless steel case in the signature cushion shape. The dial and alligator strap are both blue. It contains the self-winding Caliber 12 chronograph movement and features two square counters at 3 and 9 o’clock for small seconds and chronograph minutes. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. $6,300

MICHELE Signature Deco Diamond The latest collection of timepieces from MICHELE Watch is the Art of Deco collection, inspired by the angular, elegant shapes of the Art Deco era of design. The dial and case are hand-set with 120 glittering diamonds, adding a touch of Art Deco glamour. The dial is shimmering mother-of-pearl, and the strap is made of garnet-colored alligator leather. The strap is interchangeable, and a stainless steel bracelet is available.

The Signature Deco Diamond contains a quality Swiss movement. $1,895

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MAN ABOUT TOWN Mixed metals, precious gems, and cuff bracelets are dominating men’s jewelry

Men stepped out of the recession with bag on hip and bracelet on wrist, proclaimed The New York Times in 2012, and since then, accessories have become even more important to the modern man, as his perception of fashion continues to grow.

“The recession has taught men that looking fashionable can be a key component to getting and keeping a job,” says jewelry stylist and TV host, Michael O’Connor. “Accessories give men more opportunities to make a personal statement on traditional fashion. Men are feeling more confident about experimenting, realizing they have more options available to them than ever.”

Smart designers and otherwise iconic female

brands caught the news early that men’s jewelry was on the rise and have been building on the category recently.

O’Connor recognizes artists like David Yurman as pioneers.

When it comes to fashion accessories, express-

ing individual style for a reasonable price is now more possible than ever. Designers today are using a broad range of materials including alternative metals, leathers, and exotic stones.

David Yurman color change garnet tag in titanium. $3,150 David Yurman meteorite tag in sterling silver. $750

Mokume Sterling silver cufflinks

by William Henry. $400 David Yurman pietersite ring in sterling silver. $595 David Yurman pietersite cufflinks in sterling silver. $595

Mokume money clip by William Henry. $375

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Distinctive wedding rings in 18k gold Left White gold with diamonds.

Two tone.

Two tone with diamonds.

to right: $9,800 $2,950 $5,700

Embracing Bracelets Bracelets are probably the most popular choice in men’s jewelry next to the wristwatch. Favorite styles mix materials like precious and alternative metals with woven leather and rubber, multi-colored sail cord, gem, or exotic wood inlay, and diamond details. Bead bracelets are very popular from designers like Yurman, mixing detailed silver clasps with gems such as tiger’s eye, lapis, and black onyx. Moreover, cuff styles with interesting patterns and new takes on the ID bracelet with gem inlay are trending.

In rings, right hand fashion bands are strong in mixed metals with diamond accents (black and cognac are favorites) or inlaid with other materials like enamel or wood. The signet ring remains a favorite style, not only in classic monogrammed gold designs, but also showcasing gem centers (carved, cabochon, inlay, pavé) and mixing metals (i.e. titanium and yellow or black gold).

In cuff links, designs range from traditional classics to whimsical, lifestyle imagery like mermaids, dragons, lions, eagles, and skulls. In necklaces, new takes on dog tags are especially popular. Designers are working tag pendants in much the same way they are bringing new takes to the basic signet ring, with interesting gem centers, unique engraved patterns, and mixed metals, colors, and textures.

Gem Curious “What’s most exciting in men’s design is a growing fascination with gem material like black diamonds, sapphires, pietersite, mother-of-pearl, even meteorite,” says Mark Melancon, precious and contemporary metal band manager for Stuller. Cohen cites greater use of color expressed not only in stones, but also enamels, dyed leathers, and plated metals.

And don’t forget the diamonds. After all, why should the most precious stone on earth be reserved

only for women!

David Yurman color change garnet ring in titanium. $2,900

David Yurman black diamond bracelet in sterling silver. $1,900

David Yurman black diamond ring in sterling silver. $2,900

David Yurman pietersite bracelet in sterling silver. $995

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The Gentac Vine features a frame in handcarved sterling silver with inset colored sapphires, and inlaid with signature wood. The blade is in William Henry’s signature copper wave damascus steel with an extra sharp core in VG-5 steel; the one-hand button lock and the thumb stud are set with citrine. The Vine features a perfect balance between elegance, function, modern and exotic materials. $1,500

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This limited edition folding knife features a Mike Norris hand-forged stainless hornets nest pattern damascus blade. The handle is carved sterling silver by Lee Downey, with inlays of fossil mammoth. The B10 Noble has sapphire inlays on the thumb stud. This is a small limited edition of only 250 knives. It features a braided leather lanyard bale with stainless steel beads. The solid button lock design allows the knife to fluidly open and close with one hand. It comes with a black leather clip case. This individually numbered knife comes with a certificate of authenticity and wood presentation box. $1,850

Crafting an Heirloom William Henry collections are true collectible treasures

A William Henry pocketknife is as much intuitive as it is utilitarian, as much a piece of art as it is an award-winning accessory. Crafted from metals, wood, stone, fossil ivories and more, each knife is the result of a succession of discreet steps that culminate in a small masterpiece. Matt Conable, president and co-founder of the company, is intrigued by the sensuous intersection of form and function, warmth and cold, hard and soft, and in his role as designer, this perspective is evident in the juxtaposition of patterns and materials. The earthy warmth of desert ironwood, for example, is the perfect counterpoint to cool Damascus steel, and the totemic DNA of fossil ivory effectively contrasts with the swirl of mokume gane.

Founded in 1997, William Henry now occupies a 6,400-square-foot manufactory in McMinnville, Oregon, that feels more like an artisan’s workshop than a state-of-the art facility. Conable modeled the space after a custom knife shop, which is where he first honed his craft as a teen. With natural shell hailing from Australia, wood from such reaches as Morocco and Mexico, and fossil mammoth bone from Russia or Alaska, as well as metalworkers, fine engravers and stone experts stationed all over the globe, each knife is a remarkable international affair. The components are precision machined to tolerances reserved for aerospace level work—often measured at 0.0005-inch, or one-twelfth the size of a human hair. But the final fit, finish, action and sharpness are achieved by hand, employing the time-honored craftsmanship developed by generations of master cutlers. There are 18 craftspeople at the Oregon studio, collectively realizing the company’s motto: “Superlative function deserves to be elevated to superlative art.”

Conable expanded the definition of William Henry in 2006 to include a wider array of functional accessories for men, including money clips, divot tools, cuff links, key chains and writing instruments, in addition to men’s jewelry. His collection of pens has already won prestigious awards and gained a new legion of devotees for their beauty, design and original materials. The pen shop, adjacent to the knife-making area, has a buzz all its own. There, each pen is turned, assembled and polished as a whole to a glass-like finish, rendering every piece unique. And here, too, it seems that human touch accounts for more than the most technologically advanced machinery: after multiple polishings, each of the rollerball and limited edition fountain pens is carefully examined by hand for any imperfections. The names of the pen collections are an homage to the Willamette Valley wine country where William Henry is located: Cabernet, Zinfandel, Pinot and Merlot. The fountain pens feature 18k gold German-made nibs.

A William Henry pocketknife takes more than 12 months to produce, comprising the work of more than 30 artisans and 800 individual operations. There are currently about 10 distinctive knife collections available, each with a personality all its own. In addition, the company produces exclusive editions as well as one-ofa-kind pieces. “Heirloom quality,” a tenet on which the company was founded, doesn’t come easily.

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The Cabernet 1105 is a beautiful rollerball pen featuring a full body in etched damascus, ebonite and titanium.

The tungsten DLC-coated pocket clip is set with sapphire, and the pen features William Henry’s patent-pending Wavelock™ cap closure system – a ring of chromium steel balls embedded in a titanium ring which are captured in waveshaped grooves in titanium collars for closed and post positions. The Cabernet 1105 is a limited worldwide edition of 100 pieces, and the damascus barrel confers to each of them a distinct and original personality. No two pens are ever alike. $1,050

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BUILT FOR ADVENTURE TUDOR’s heritage as a high-performance sports watch endures TUDOR’s new Heritage Black Bay and Heritage Ranger collections are so-called because of their heritage: they descend from a long line of high-performance timepieces that were originally issued to divers of the French Navy.

The new Heritage Ranger is a modern interpretation of the collection’s heritage-style watches originally launched in 1967. These were high-performance sports watches built for adventure and extreme conditions. Today’s collection is likewise imbued with the pioneering spirit of the far North and epic tales of sled dogs braving solitary frozen lands and the exploits of adventurers defying hostile environments to explore new frontiers. The robust Heritage Ranger combines technical prowess and supreme reliability in order to withstand such extreme conditions.

Original design codes of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger include the dial color, numeral font, large crown and the distinctive pear shaped hands. All numerals and indexes are hand-painted with a colored luminous substance to create an antique effect. The lugs of the Heritage Ranger echo the original in that they are drilled through to accommodate the spring bars. The new model’s modern updates include a larger case, at 41mm, as well as the introduction of several strap options — and a bonus strap for each model! There is a choice of three strap styles: a brown leather bund strap with satin-finished rivets; or a tobacco-hued leather strap reminiscent of dogsled harnesses, and a steel bracelet. Any of the three options arrive with the bonus adjustable fabric strap in a woven camouflage pattern (crafted by the same French artisans that produce fabric robes for the Vatican). The bund strap is made of a single piece of ma-

terial that runs underneath the watch case, and is lined with alcantara for softness and comfort.

The case is made of satin finished steel, and it contains the self-winding caliber 2824, and it is water resistant to 150 meters.

TUDOR’s new Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the original model, the Submariner, which was first launched in 1954 and used by divers in the French Navy. The new model retains stylistic elements of the original, including its domed dial, imposing winding crown (introduced on a 1958 model) and angular hands — dubbed “snowflakes” by collectors, and seen on models issued from 1969 to the early 1980s. The dial is matte black, with silver-colored luminescent hands, and the bezel and crown tube are midnight blue. Like the Heritage Ranger, the Heritage Black Bay comes with a bonus strap, featuring an adjustable blue woven fabric, with the purchase of a Heritage Black Bay on a midnight-blue distressed leather strap or on a satin-finished and polished steel bracelet. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

TUDOR is part of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, set up in 1945 by the eponymous founder of Rolex. TUDOR and Rolex respectively address the high-end and premium segments of the market, and are served by a shared legacy of watchmaking expertise and an unparalleled after-sales service organization.

TUDOR Heritage Ranger. $2,825

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TUDOR Heritage Black Bay. $3,100

E V E R Y D AY S E X Y

gift ideas

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Curved diamond bar pendant in 14k rose gold. $850

Emerald and diamond pendant. $1,350 Sapphire and diamond pendant. $1,350 Ruby and diamond pendant. $1,350 All set in 14k white gold

Great Gifts At Aucoin Hart Jewelers

“From fashion forward, bold color palettes to the absolute best selection of the classics, we have the perfect work of art to adorn yourself or a loved one.�

-Rob Cavataio Director of Merchandising Aucoin Hart Jewelers

Aquamarine and diamond earrings in 14k white gold. $1,400

Round diamond flower earrings in 14k white gold. $975

Interlocking cushion shape diamond bracelet in 14k white gold. $1,350

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Diamond pendant in 18k white gold. $1,675

Diamond pendant in 18k yellow gold from Kwiat. $750

Amethyst and diamonds in 14k rose gold. Pendant $685 Ring $850

David Yurman sterling silver and diamond earrings. $1,400

Blue and white topaz earrings in 14k white gold from B Couture. $395

Sterling silver drop earrings. $165

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A TRUE PROMISE WILL NEVER BE BROKEN

Forevermark is part of The De Beers Group of Companies.

© Forevermark 2014. Forevermark®, ®, The Diamond. The Promise.™ are Trade Marks of The De Beers Group of Companies.

THE DIAMOND. THE PROMISE.

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Forevermark diamond engagement rings created by Aucoin Hart’s master craftsmen

the

forevermark

B

promise:

Beautiful Diamonds And A Commitment To Sustainability

In 1947, Frances Gerety, a young copywriter at the N.W. Ayer

The Forevermark diamond journey begins at the mine, where rough

advertising agency in Philadelphia, penned what would become the most

diamonds are extracted from deep within the earth. Each mine produces

famous advertising slogan of all time: “A Diamond Is Forever.” And so

a wide range of rough diamonds, but only the highest quality rough

De Beers — the name of an otherwise obscure South African mining

material will be cut into a Forevermark diamond.

company — was burned into the American consumer consciousness as

Once cut and polished, experts at the Forevermark Diamond Institute

the world’s source for diamonds.

in Antwerp, Belgium, carefully inspect each stone again to determine its

From this was born the Forevermark diamond brand. Diamond mining

fit for the brand. Between 5% and 10% are still rejected for not meeting

companies from Australia, Russia and Canada now share De Beers’

quality standards.

formerly exclusive space in the diamond market, but De Beers alone is responsible for making the promise already established in consumers’ minds: that a diamond means love, forever.

• At least 14 points or larger (there are 100 points in a carat).

“Promises are powerful, precious and eternal,” says Charles Stanley,

• Cut to a standard of Very Good or better, according to the American

president of Forevermark USA, based in Connecticut. “A promise is so precious that only a diamond will do. Believing in the power of a promise is at the core of who we are and who we want to be.”

Gem Society grading scale.

• Graded at an “L” color or above (on a scale from D to Z established by the Gemological Institute of America).

Forevermark diamonds are designed to deliver the promise in the

• Graded at a clarity value of SI or above — there are 11 clarity grades for

highest manner possible. Only certain carefully selected diamonds are

diamonds: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very, Very Slightly

eligible to carry the Forevermark brand inscription; only certain designers

Included (VVS1 and VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2),

and manufacturers may set them into jewelry, and only certain retailers

Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2), and Included (I1, I2 and I3).

may sell them.

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A Forevermark diamond must be:

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Forevermark diamond engagement ring in white gold. $3,950

Cushion cut Forevermark diamond wedding ring in platinum. $7,250 Forevermark diamond drop earrings in white gold. $4,100

Only 1% of diamonds mined in the world meet those standards, say

by the late Nelson Mandela for his commitment to freedom and justice.

Forevermark executives. Diamonds that pass the final inspection are then

Today, the Forevermark promise demands that not only are its diamonds

inscribed (microscopically, on the table facet) with the Forevermark icon

conflict free, but that the mines they come from benefit the communities

and a unique identification number, using proprietary technology that

in which they are operating, in areas such as health care, education and

is impossible to alter or duplicate. The microscopic mark — roughly

training, investment in community infrastructure, and a commitment to

1/5000th of a human hair — can only be seen with a special Forevermark

ecological preservation.

viewer, not even a standard microscope. Only then are they set into

For example, the hospital at the Orapa mine in Botswana also functions

jewelry and sold through authorized Forevermark jewelers.

as the district hospital, serving not only the mine’s employees and their families, but also providing medical care to local communities within

Promise to the people and the environment

a 600 km radius, and De Beers has set aside 200,000 hectares of land

The promise of eternal love that a diamond symbolizes only tells part

around its mines for conservation of wildlife like cheetah, rhinoceros,

of the Forevermark story. Forevermark diamonds are guaranteed to be

elephants and more. That’s an area five times greater than the footprint

conflict free and responsibly sourced from carefully selected mines in

of the mines themselves.

countries that are committed to the highest business, social, economic,

Forevermark diamonds come from mines in countries such as

and environmental standards.

Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Australia and Canada. Forevermark

Former De Beers chairman Harry Oppenheimer was an outspoken

diamond jewelry is sold at 380 leading jewelry stores across the United

opponent of apartheid in South Africa, and upon his death was eulogized

States and Canada, and in more than 1,300 doors worldwide.

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wedding planner

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the

engagement ring

R

Rings to symbolize a promise and marriage have been around almost as long as the concept of marriage itself. The next

I

Emerald cut diamond engagement ring with matching emerald cut diamond wedding ring.

time some curmudgeon tells you it’s just an invention of some ad agency (more on that later), tell him it’s just not so.

The tradition of a diamond engagement ring dates back to 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria presented one to Mary of Burgundy upon their promise. But that’s just the first diamond engagement ring. There is ample evidence of promise and marriage rings used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Indeed, the Romans were the ones who introduced gold for promise rings.

A Roman bride-to-be was presented with two engagement rings: a gold ring to wear in public, and an iron one to wear around the house while doing chores. Common practice for several centuries, this is one idea whose time has come back. Iron, not so much, but having a diamond wedding band for dressy occasions, a plain gold or platinum band for everyday, and a tough tungsten or titanium band for sports or active use is as relevant today as it was more than 2,000 years ago.

In 860 AD, Pope Nicholas I wrote a letter describing some differences between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox traditions: one of those was that in the Western church, a man presents his promise with an engagement ring.

During the Renaissance, two major events shaped the evolution of modern bridal rings: one, the diamond ring given to Mary of Burgundy sparked a trend among the elite social classes to give a diamond ring for engagement, and two, the Protestant Reformation that eschewed religious grandeur

Oval shape fancy yellow diamond engagement ring surrounded by yellow and white diamonds

also drove the wedding ring to replace the promise ring as the primary symbol of marriage.

Classic elegance. Round and cushion cut diamond engagement rings in 18k white gold.

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Cushion cut Forevermark diamond set in double halo engagement ring with a split shank.

I

In early North America, the Puritans, Quakers, and other religious

meanwhile,

groups who shunned ornamentation or jewelry gave a thimble in lieu of

reflected

a wedding ring, although historians believe some women cut the tops off

love of all

their thimbles to wear as rings. (As an aside, the Protestant Reformation

things stark

also launched the Swiss watch industry. With the rise of Calvinism and

and modern.

its doctrine of simplicity, jewelers who saw their livelihood slipping away

Not sur-

turned to horology. Watches and clocks, like thimbles, were deemed ac-

prisingly, the

ceptable because of their usefulness, unlike jewelry, which was consid-

popularity of

ered purely ornamental.)

diamond

en-

During the Victorian era, a huge diamond discovery in South Africa in

gagement

rings

1867 made diamond jewelry accessible to more people. Queen Victoria’s

declined during the

marriage to Albert was a true love match, rare in an era when royal mar-

Great Depression, but

riages were usually made for political or economic, not romantic, reasons.

after World War II, Americans

While diamond engagement rings were still largely considered the domain

were poised for consumption after

of the nobility, their reach was extending down to the more affluent of

more than 15 years of hardship. Returning GIs flocked to newly built

the masses. In honor of the love between Victoria and Albert, popular

suburbs, filled their new houses with shiny new appliances and their ga-

design trends were romantic motifs like hearts, bows, or even snakes, seen

rages with shiny new automobiles.

as a symbol of eternity.

It was during this time that De Beers, through its marketing agency

It was during this era that the famed solitaire setting, a single diamond

N.W. Ayer, created the greatest marketing slogan of all time: “A Dia-

held in place by six prongs, was introduced, although it would not be-

mond Is Forever.” It didn’t invent the diamond engagement ring, but it

come the norm for some time yet.

would cement the idea that a diamond ring was essential to being truly

The Industrial Revolution next ushered in

and properly engaged.

greater prosperity and a growing middle class, putting fine jewelry within reach of even more people. By the Edwardian era of the early 1900s, engagement rings

a

The presence of a diamond in an engagement ring rocketed from 10% just before WWII to more than 80% at the end of the 20th century.

had become a widely accepted Edwardian

custom. design

featured diamonds in

lacy,

ornate

Beautiful fancy shape diamonds surrounded by brilliant round diamonds in white gold.

platinum settings.

The geometric styles of the Art Deco era that followed,

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ringing in the trends

Modern Designs

In the latter half of the 20th century, the solitaire setting became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired trend was made possible only with the very modern development of CAD-CAM technology).

Vintage-style engagement rings with cushion and round shape halos.

The round brilliant still remains the number-one diamond shape, but more and more brides are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess, radiant, and other special cuts.

Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personalization and customization are common — indeed, almost standard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride, but more often, the couple chooses it together.

Halos, Clusters, Celebrities, & Colors

The halo setting (a center stone surrounded by a “halo” of smaller stones) is the biggest thing to hit engagement ring design since the solitaire. The halo adds visual interest to a single stone, while incidentally making it look way bigger. It’s a win-win all around.

Newest designs from Aucoin Hart award winning craftsmen created in our workshop on Metairie Road.

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So what’s next? Well, there’s a double halo, or even a triple, but where to go from there? Some fashion soothsayers predict the next big thing may be a diamond cluster ring. Cluster styles are a great option for the bride that wants a big look but has a tight budget, says Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center in New York. The diamond cluster ring has the same advantage as a halo in making a big statement for less money — sometimes far less — than a single stone would cost for comparable size and quality. But rather than the halo’s combination of a center stone surrounded by many tiny diamonds, the cluster uses multiple diamonds of the same size artfully arranged in such a way as to give off maximum sparkle. For example, Real Housewives of Atlanta star Kandi Burress’s engagement ring, from the Karina collection by Gregg Ruth, looks like a two-carat oval, but it’s actually a cluster of smaller diamonds set in the shape of an oval.

Speaking of Burress, celebrity engagements are one of the biggest influences on engagement ring trends. While engagement ring designs do mirror general jewelry style trends, the celebrity trend emerged big in the 1960s with the public’s fascination over Elizabeth Taylor and her engagement ring from Richard Burton.

Today, we know what a celebrity’s ring looks like almost before her groom pops the question. Recently, lots of them featured cushion cut center stones — in a halo, of course. To wit: Tennis star Ryan Sweeting proposed to The Big Bang Theory’s Kaley Cuoco with a 2.30ct cushion cut halo set engagement ring. Not to be outdone, Tim Witherspoon popped the question to former Destiny’s Child singer Kelly Rowland with a 4ct cushion cut in a halo setting and pavé band. Then rapper Big Sean presented Glee star Naya Rivera with a 4-5ct cushion cut in a platinum halo setting with pavé band.

The cushion cut — so named for its softly rounded corners that resemble a pillow — is the third most popular style after round and princess (square). Some diamond dealers even say it has supplanted the princess as number two. The cut dates back 200 years and was once considered the cut of royalty.

Today’s versions, however, use modern cutting technology to imbue this vintage style with renewed sparkle.

Other trending styles include floral designs, east-west settings, colored gemstone centers, mixed metals, and twisted bands. In an east-west setting, an elongated stone such as an oval, radiant cut, or marquise is set sideways across the finger, as opposed to the traditional north-south direction up and down the finger. This modern setting has reignited the popularity of cuts like pears and marquise, which largely fell out of favor in the 1990s.

Color is a huge trend. Color has been big in fashion, and the appeal crosses over into jewelry. First, there’s the Kate Effect: Kate Middleton (aka the Duchess of Cambridge) wears the sapphire engagement ring belonging to the late Princess Diana, Prince William’s mother, which has driven acceptance of not only sapphires but also other colored gemstones as a center stone. According to Gizzi of the Jewelry Information Center, the newest way to wear color is in the reverse: colored gems flanking the center diamond.

Fancy color diamonds and mixed metals are also trending. Whether platinum and yellow gold, pink and white gold, or even blackened metals for the hipster bride, mixing metals adds a personal touch to the standard engagement ring. According to Severine Ferrari, editor-in-chief of YourEngagement101. com, “Yellow gold has made a big comeback, as well as fancy yellow diamond centers. Rose gold and pink accents are very strong, too.”

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Brilliant round center diamond engagement ring with double halo.

Rose gold engagement ring with intricate vintage-style detail in white gold.

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don’t forget the band

Wedding band trends For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs into the hectic details of planning a wedding. So much so that the most lasting symbol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an afterthought.

But wedding bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well as an outward sign of their commitment.

Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding rings are intricate designs for the woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for the men’s band. Alternative metals such as tungsten and titanium are also popular for men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech appeal and their relative indestructibility. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy can’t also have two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony and to wear for dress, and the second contemporary metal band to wear for sports.

And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion options. “Stacking bands let women achieve a balanced aesthetic. One band on top of the engagement ring balances the ring on the bottom,” says Ferrari. “Some women continue to stack on bands after the ‘I do.’”

Distinctive alternative metal wedding rings from $250

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Contemporary wedding rings in 14k gold with round diamonds.

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more than just the ring

Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or wedding ring.

There’s a wedding gown that needs the right accessories, and what better choice than something the bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?

Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”

Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter.

Long after the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and over and always remember that special day.

Diamond huggie earrings in 14k white gold. $2,450

Pearl and diamond pendant in 14k white gold. $1,300 Sapphire and diamond necklace in 14k white gold. $5,200

Classic sterling silver cufflinks. $150

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A divine symbol bestowed on faith, loyalty, and life.

The Regal

wedding planner

Diamond drop earrings in 14k white gold. $3,450

Gifts for the bride, the groom, their parents, and the bridal party Brides are ditching the matchy-matchy gifts and choosing personalized jewelry options, says Gizzi. She suggests initial pendants or monogrammed necklaces. Another way brides are getting personal is by selecting one gemstone or metal as a unifying theme, and then finding different jewelry styles to match each bridesmaid’s personality.

For the mothers of the bride and groom, Gizzi suggests earrings. “Necklines of the dress can vary, so a beautiful pair of small drop earrings in diamonds or gemstones will draw the perfect amount of attention to the face.”

For the best man and groomsmen, cuff links are a no-brainer. It’s also a great idea for a gift to the fathers of the bride and groom. In keeping with today’s trend of personalization, choose either a playful style that represents your bud’s or dad’s favorite hobby, or a classic monogrammed style. Not French cuff kind of guys? Try a sterling silver money clip or keychain. With artisan whiskeys and bourbons trending, it’s an elegant and useful accessory.

Finally, the bride needs a gift for her groom. Cufflinks to wear with his suit or tuxedo are his own special marker of the day. This is also a prime time to choose an heirloom timepiece that he will wear every day, and can pass along to children and even grandchildren.

Round diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold. $3,200

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Diamond bangle bracelet in 14k white gold. $4,975

OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST

rolex

oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.