A quartet of pals – three Brits and a Swede – encountered searing heat, goats, pigs, blocked roads, and many mechanical glitches on a punishing anti-clockwise circuit of the rugged Mediterranean island of Corsica in June 2019. But, as Chris Wilby explains, Le Tour De Corse (Corsican Raid) had its compensations, including great scenery, food, beer and countless refreshing dips in cool mountain pools. Here’s his account of a notable ride:
Keeping cool
in a Corsican
WORDS & PICTURES CHRIS WILBY & ADRIAN LAGAN FOUR RIDERS IS a good number for a tour. It helps minimise costs and admin, but it also ensures a shared experience. And this 865km ride along a predefined route around the beautiful island of Corsica delivered plenty of experiences. The team was: Patrick “Paddy” Cope, Lars Eckerborn (from Sweden), Adrian Lagan, and me. We are experienced randonneurs, except for Lars, but he’d ridden the Vatterundam, a 300km day and night ride around Vattern Lake in Sweden in 2018. The plan was to complete a 10-day, self-supported tour of the island, starting and finishing at Bastia. There are 16 checkpoints to pass through to claim a medal from the ACP (Audax Cycling Parisian). Adrian rode a specialised Roubaix and Patrick had a new Look 765 optimum ultegra disc tubeless bike. I used my Airnimal Chameleon folding road bike. Lars had hired a Specialized Allez, but it began to fall apart early on – starting with an inadequate seat post clamp, then a faulty bottom bracket. We were kitted out in white Corsica Cycling shirts, so we could spot each other. Three of us opted for cycling sandals, because of the relentless sun, except for Paddy who wore cycling shoes – his feet boiled.
Arrivée152Summer2021
Day 1 Bastia to Calvi – 176km, 3387m climbing
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Heading north out of Bastia Northwards, we were immersed in sunshine with the sea on our right and mountains on our left, and we made good progress on fresh legs to Macinaggio. At the first control at the Tourist Information on a quayside we got our stamps, but Lars was having problems with his saddle sinking. Adrian helped him by trying to tighten the saddle clamp. Meanwhile Paddy and I found a shop to obtain snacks, and water from a street spa. When we got back, we couldn’t see Adrian or Lars so assumed they’d continued. We set off up the long climb into the mountains on the road to Nonza. Lars’s seat clamp continued to be troublesome – whenever any weight was put on the saddle it would sink so the bike had to be ridden mostly standing up. After a long climb the road descended and hugged the coast again, twisting and turning. The views were
spectacular, the sea a beautiful turquoise. I arrived with Paddy at the Café de la tour in Nonza, sampling a platter of cheese and meat with beer. The food and location was fantastic. Adrian arrived an hour or so later and we became concerned about Lars, so Adrian went back to find him, he was struggling up the long climbs, his saddle continuing to trouble him. After many attempts to fix Lars’s bike clamp Adrian swapped bikes to help him get through the day. We hoped to remain together but the hills, long descents and differing abilities didn’t allow this, so it was nice to just take time to enjoy the solitude and scenery. Lars and I adopted a steady pace which took us into the night. I just had a small light, which was not really enough. When I arrived with Lars at Calvi, Paddy was enjoying a drink from a corner bar and Adrian was waiting in the hotel with just a towel wrapped around his waist – Lars was riding Adrian’s bike, and his clothes were in the saddlebag. After some beers we enjoyed a pizza back at the chalet hotel rooms.
After some ❝ beers we enjoyed a pizza back at the chalet hotel rooms
❞
Day 2 Calvi to Piana – 107km, 2545m climbing In the morning we visited the local cycle shop and they replaced Lars seatpost clamp with the proper sized one, and I bought a more powerful lamp. We then had omelettes for breakfast from a small cafe and set off together. This was one of the best days of the tour with two long climbs. The first was 11km with a great viewpoint at the top and an exhilarating twisting descent to Porto. Then a tougher but rewarding final 8.5km climb to Piana, with a short 30 per cent section near the end. Adrian and Paddy had already reached the holiday cabin. It was a short walk to the beach where they’d gone for food and drink. Lars and I had been taking our time but we had received a text warning from Adrian that there was no food ahead, so Lars and I stopped in Piana for a Pizza. When Lars and I found the chalet site the other two were still on their beach trip.
