obsessive compulsive cosmetics dystropolis veruca cyn rat baby
posh fairytale couture stunning fantasy fashion paul hartnoll odonis odonis annalee belle matty morbid SUMMER
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contents
posh fairytale couture : 26 paul hartnoll : 12 obsessive compulsive cosmetics : 6 odonis odonis . annalee belle . matty morbid : 16 . 21 . 40 dystropolis . veruca cyn . rat baby : 30 . 30 . 58 Photographer : Eyes Open Photography Makeup Artist : Rachel Sigmon Hair Stylist : Rachel Sigmon Ensemble : Posh Fairytale Couture Model : Gabriella Porter
beauty 5
runway to vanity inspiration from Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, and Alexander McQueen
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obsessive compulsive cosmetics an interview with David Klasfeld the mastermind behind the beloved vegan and cruelty-free brand
10 beauty picks
lifestyle
summer shimmer
20 ask arden
media
advice on relationship strategies
21 the PinUp
11 media reviews
Annalee Belle
I Bificus, The Sunlight Pilgrims, and The Gift-Knight’s Quest
fashion
music
25 style
Rockabilly Rebel
12 paul hartnoll
26 designer spotlight
an interview with one half of Orbital on his collaboration with Vince Clarke of Depeche Mode, Yazoo, and Erasure
posh fairytale couture
30 40 50 58 68
16 odonis odonis industrial post gaze from the Toronto underground
18 music reviews Holy Fuck,The Tragically Hip, Marsheaux, Iszoloscope, Angelspit, and more
infatuation devil luxe suspend must bohemian headpiece
69 where to buy
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summer 2016 AUXILIARY
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DEAR AUXILIARY
CONTRIBUTORS
your opinions on the Spring 2016 Issue
Editor in Chief Jennifer Link Kieffer
Thanks to @auxiliarymag for making me their new cover star. - @coldcave23 via Twitter
Music Editor Mike Kieffer
Nice. Need to pickup a copy for ourselves. @ColdCave23 looking good. - @Shadowshapes1 via Twitter
Associate Fashion Editor Shannon Kramp
I can’t wait to get mine in the mail!!! So excited! - Amanda deLeon Clothing via Facebook
Fashion Editor at Large Tasha Farrington
Looks amazing! - Brant S. via Facebook
Copy Editor Dylan Madeley
Yup, I knew it was an issue I needed to pick up! Now it’s doubly confirmed. - Merrick M. via Facebook
Logo Design Melanie Beitel
[That Cold Cave quote is] literally my life motto. - Kylie J. via Facebook
Layout Design Jennifer Link Kieffer
[The Alien Botany feature] reminds me of the night club in the David Bowie movie The Hunger. - Owen N. via Facebook
Contributors Aaron Andrews Tasha Farrington Hangedman Reem Jazar Jennifer Link Kieffer Mike Kieffer Adrian Kowalski Shannon Kramp Rocki Lee Arden Leigh Lisa Lunney Dylan Madeley Vanessa Oswald Elizabeth Rhodes Akiko Yamakawa
Refreshing mood/setting [in the Alien Botany feature]! Wow! - Réal C. via Facebook Ulorin and Zoetica? Dream combo. - Wanda S. via Facebook [The Center Stage editorial is] amazing! - Ellen J. via Facebook
share your thoughts on the issue, news and events, whatever is on your mind! Email editorial@auxiliarymagazine.com, comment on our website, tweet at @auxiliarymag, or comment on our Facebook page.
Photographers Eyes Open Photography www.eyes-open-photography.com Jennifer Link Kieffer www.jennifer-link.com Saryn Christina www.sarynchristina.com Stephanie Bell www.emergingphoto.ca Knightmare6 www.knightmare6.com Tragic Glamour www.tragicglamour.com Lush Light Photography www.lushlightphotography.com Steve Double www.double-whammy.com Geoff Fitzgerald www.geofffitzgerald.com
ABOUT AUXILIARY Auxiliary = alternative, supplementary, to provide what is missing, to give support. Auxiliary Magazine is an alternative fashion, music, and lifestyle magazine covering goth, industrial, EBM, electronic, punk, indie, pinup, retro, rockabilly, gothabilly, deathrock, witch house, grave wave, cybergoth, cyberpunk, steampunk, and many more subcultures, genres, and styles that all combine to create one Auxiliary. www.auxiliarymagazine.com email : info@auxiliarymagazine.com
Photographs / Illustrations
advertising inquiries email : advertise@auxiliarymagazine.com
photograph on 18 Nick Walker www.nickwalkerphotography.com
issue 44 : summer 2016 / ISSN 1948-9676
photograph on 20 Isabel Dresler www.isabeldresler.com
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without the permission in writing from the publisher, except small excerpts for review purposes. Submitted work, reviews, ads, and photographs are copyrighted by their respective owners and fall under previous declaration. Copyright Auxiliary Magazine 2016.
AUXILIARY summer 2016
photographs on 25 Jennifer Link Kieffer www.jennifer-link.com 4
ISSUE PREVIEW
BEAUTY
SUMMER 2016 purchase the print or digital edition at auxiliarymagazine.com
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interview by Reem Jazar photographer Knightmare6 model Astarra Thorne
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics David Klasfeld, makeup artist and mastermind of the vegan and cruelty-free Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics chats with Auxiliary about his shop front, that still stands strong in New York’s Lower East Side even in this age of gentrification, and about building and maintaining a unique makeup brand that remains a true favorite.
What made you decide to develop your own line back in 2004? DK : In the course of my freelance career, I started to encounter models and celebrities who were vegan, and who requested that the makeup used on them be vegan as well. As a life-long animal rights supporter and vegetarian (I hadn’t gone vegan at the time) myself, I was happy to accommodate them but was surprised at the lack of vegan makeup options on the market. Of the few products available at the time, most catered to a very neutral palette, whereas as an artist, I needed the full spectrum of color available to me.
When makeup artist David Klasfeld set out to establish his own vegan and cruelty-free makeup line in 2004, the effort was the culmination of years of experience, genuine purpose, and a predisposition towards excellence and accuracy that makes Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics the kind of makeup line that delivers year after year. Considering how ahead of its time the brand was, it’s remarkable how Klasfeld has kept his commitments towards animal advocacy without compromising the product and achieved an authentic and organic brand culture. Currently, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics’ only stand-alone store is located in New York’s famed Lower East Side, a sort of muse to the brand; Klasfeld says the neighborhood continues to inspire him even after the major shifts in the area since the store’s opening in 2011. Klasfeld is happy the artistic integrity of the area lives on despite the changes. The brand is also sold through Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics’ website, stocked in Urban Outfitters and Nordstrom, and has remained a beauty blogger and editor favorite. Klasfeld’s thoughtful, knowledgeable, and genuine responses during the course of our interview shed light on his product focus approach to branding. Transparency and individuality are not commonly at the forefront of beauty campaigns, but the makeup artist’s commitment to individuality and integrity is as inspiring as his passion for his craft.
What is one beauty product you personally can’t live without? DK : At the risk of sounding biased, it really is Lip Tar: Primer. It’s just a great all around liquid lip balm, made with hemp oil which is packed with EFAs (essential fatty acids). I put it on every night and morning. Who is your ultimate beauty icon? DK : That’s one of the hardest questions I’ve ever fielded. Right now, it’s Joanna Lumley, whether in or out of character as Patsy Stone from Absolutely Fabulous. She’s a perfect example of ageless beauty, and has effortlessly rocked a full, almost drag-ish beat long before it was fashionable for women to really do so on an everyday basis. But she makes it look effortless and because it’s really a reflection of her confidence.
How long were you a makeup artist in the industry before you decided to start your own cosmetic line? David Klasfeld : Prior to starting OCC, I had been working as a makeup artist professionally for eight years. I still continue to work in makeup twelve years later so that my skill set stays fresh. AUXILIARY summer 2016
What is the best beauty advice you’ve ever received? DK : There is no one perfect shade of foundation for anyone. Skin tone is a gradi6
ISSUE MUSIC PREVIEW SUMMER 2016 purchase the print or digital edition at auxiliarymagazine.com
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Paul Hartnoll Paul Hartnoll was one half of the long running and very influential electronic act Orbital. He’s been making music since the late eighties, stringing up a number of successful Orbital albums and creating with his music partner and brother, Phil, a legendary stage show. Recently, Paul Hartnoll has teamed up with another influential electronic musician, Vince Clarke, whose credits include Depeche Mode, Yazoo, and Erasure. The two have released the first album on Clarke’s own Very Records, naming the band after themselves. Auxiliary talks with Paul Hartnoll about his new album with Vince Clarke 2Square, gear, the music writing process, writing scores, and possibility of more Orbital. interview by Aaron Andrews photographer Steve Double Good afternoon Paul, thanks for speaking with me. Vince Clarke recommended we talk with you about the project, as you’re, “more fun.” Do think that’s true or is he just living up to his shy reputation? Paul Hartnoll : He’s shirking, yeah shirking. [laughs]
PH : It came together because Vince was writing kind of a dance album. He’s gotten quite recently into listening to dance music, house music I suppose. He kind of wanted to play around with it and spent a couple of years I think messing about, probably since the VCMG album and came up with loads of stuff loads of ideas and got to the point where he couldn’t finish it. Which sometimes happens when you work alone. He spoke to a mutual friend of ours, Howard, who does backline for both us, looks after our gear on tour. Howard suggested he get in touch with me, “I think you two’d get on, Paul would be a great person to help you finish.”
Let’s talk about the new project. You and Vince Clarke, both veterans of electronic music getting together and making a dance record for Vince’s personal label Very Records. How’d it happen? AUXILIARY summer 2016
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MUSIC
SUMMER 2016 purchase the print or digital edition at auxiliarymagazine.com
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Odonis Odonis Odonis Odonis have been known within the Toronto underground scene since 2011, experimenting with different sounds, and self-described as industrial post gaze. With their new album, Post Plague, the band shows what they can do with input from all three members. Auxiliary had the chance to speak with Dean Tzenos about the beginnings of Odonis Odonis, the process of making Post Plague, and what lies ahead for the band. interview by Vanessa Oswald photographer Geoff Fitzgerald Odonis Odonis have been flashing on the radar of the Toronto underground scene since 2011 and just released their new album, Post Plague. For a band that’s known for churning out infectious surf rock, shoegaze, and electronic music, on this record they’ve flipped the switch delving into a more industrial and futuristic sound, which is sure to surprise and elate their fans.
you to bands when you were younger. Dean Tzenos : Yeah, they got me into stuff a lot younger than I should’ve been into. I guess that would’ve been the starting point. I listened to a bunch of new wave and stuff like that. I got to hear a bunch of these underground bands. By the time I was nine I grabbed a guitar and I started learning.
In the beginning stages of the band, founder Dean Tzenos (vocals, synth) had recorded a few albums worth of material before meeting his bandmates, Denholm Whale (bass), who he met through Jude from Toronto band HSY, and Jarod Gibson (electronic percussions), who he found on Craigslist.
Do your sisters have musical backgrounds or do they play any instruments? DT : No, they’re just cool I think. They should’ve, I don’t know why they didn’t. I was the only one who really got into it. I thought it was interesting you named the band after a guy named Adonis Adonis, is that right? How exactly did that happen? DT : It was kind of a patient, actually. One of my exes worked at a pharmaceutical company. So she used to get like all the prescriptions in and she used to tell me some of the names. There would just be ridiculous names every week and one time there was someone named Adonis Adonis around the same time period I was trying to figure out what this project was going to be. I was like, “There can’t be someone named Adonis Adonis. That doesn’t make any sense.” It was real and it
This time around all three of them got the chance to collaborate, meaning they all had input when it came to deciding on what kind of sound they wanted to create as a band, which turned out to be quite an arduous undertaking. In the end, even if it took longer than they originally thought, the finished product was worth all the work they put in. What first inspired you to make music? I read that your sisters introduced AUXILIARY summer 2016
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ISSUE LIFESTYLE PREVIEW SUMMER 2016 purchase the print or digital edition at auxiliarymagazine.com
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Ask Arden how can I keep the spark going in a relationship with limited time together?
Q : Hi Arden. Help, I feel like I’m in a long distance relationship even though I live less than an hour away from my boo! We both have such intense work schedules that we see each other maybe once a week, or sometimes only a couple of times a month. How can we keep the spark going? A : I’m so glad you asked! Due to the gig economy, we no longer live in a world where everyone works nine-to-five jobs and Friday and Saturday nights are reserved for dates with our lovers. Often, weekends are reserved for freelance work, or even regular work shifts (especially if you work in nightlife), and finding time together isn’t as paint-by-numbers as it used to be. Everyone gives and receives love in different ways, and each person has needs and desires around how much quality time they need to spend with their partner in order to make the relationship worthwhile. It seems from your question like you would ideally like more time, but it’s not making you question the relationship, so you simply want a few helpful suggestions to keep the connection going even when you can’t meet with each other in person. So here’s a few: 1. Use social media. Things like Snapchat and Instagram allow us glimpses into each other’s days so we don’t feel so far apart. If you and your sweetie intentionally follow each other, even the occasional “like,” while being perhaps the least effortful expression of affection in the history of mankind, will let each other know that you see each other and are keeping up with each other. Sending private Snaps is another simple and easy way of staying connected. 2. Give each other a private inbox. A friend of mine referred to the inbox of the special email address he’d given privately to his lover as the Special Things Box. Here, when one of you has free time, you can craft something special for the other to find later: a love letter, a collection of photos (whether your own or pulled from your favorite Tumblr), a video diary, a short story. The idea of the Special Things Box is that it’s romantic, a place for correspondence that is away from the mundane of the everyday world of scheduling concerns and work tasks. Importantly, the Special Things Box is non-urgent, to be enjoyed at one’s leisure. This way, when you create things for each other, each of you knows that you’re still prioritizing the relationship, even when you can’t meet in person. 3. Make each other playlists. Whether you’re sharing on Spotify or giving each other album recommendations from iTunes, listening to music that your lover recommends is a great way to feel close, especially on long drives, during travel, or on nights you spend alone in bed. 4. Keep a text thread going. Send each other funny pics that remind you of each other, or dash off a quick sentence or two about your day. Often the greatest threat that a lack of quality time poses is the idea that things might change or fail in the time you spend apart, but when you keep casual, everyday conversation, it’s easier AUXILIARY summer 2016
by Arden Leigh photograph by Isabel Dresler
submit your questions to :
askarden@auxiliarymagazine.com
to feel connected to one another. 5. Make plans far in advance. Playing things by ear can often lead to disaster, with one of you inevitably waiting around on that rare free night while the other stresses to finish work. Instead, mark off date nights way ahead of time and stick to them the same way you would with a work commitment. With a little effort and energy, you can both show that you’re committed to the relationship, even if it’s often at differing temporal intervals.
who should communicate their expectations before a one night stand? Q : A one night stand occurs. One of them intended it to be just a one night stand. The other was surprised by this after the fact and very upset about it. Neither of them broached the subject in advance. Which one is to blame? Maybe neither? Maybe both? More importantly: who should change their ways regarding communication and expectations? A : If consent to a sexual experience hinges on something that’s not being said, it’s important that that thing gets said explicitly, so in this case, it’s on the person who is expecting continued connection after a night of sex to express that before agreeing to it. If the person desiring more connection believes that a sexual experience must also come along with a guaranteed future of some kind, then they are actually imposing their expectations blindly on the other person, which is not at all along the lines of informed consent. All that said, I am less interested in placing blame and more interested in giving each person in the situation a tactic for clear communication that helps them avoid this problem in the future. For the person who intended it to be a one night stand, I would advise saying, “Hey, I am really enjoying my time with you this evening and I would love to explore tonight to its fullest potential. That said, I’m in a place right now where I’m not looking for anything serious. Maybe you and I will see each other again and maybe we won’t, but either way, I need both of us to be okay with everything if that happens.” For the person who expected more connection, I would advise saying, “Hey, I am really enjoying my time with you this evening and I would love to explore tonight to its fullest potential. That said, I’m in a place right now where I’m no longer looking for casual experiences, so I need to know if we decide to spend tonight together that you have every intention of spending time with me again in the future.” Either one of those approaches would have cleared the air and made room for that conversation to happen. So, rather than placing blame, simply arm yourself with the clearest communication possible no matter which side of the equation you’re on, and you’ll be better prepared not to run into too much trouble. 20
ISSUE LIFESTYLE PREVIEW Meet Annalee Belle, a self-described Jill of all trades who enjoys a wide variety of things in life. Expressing her creativity through modeling and photography and working as a makeup artist and social media strategy coach, you can also follow Pinky and Proppy for her advice, her reviews, and her travel adventures with TV host and boyfriend JD Scott.
SUMMER the 2016 PinUp
Auxiliary’s playful take on the sexy centerfold pin up. purchase the print or edition at and Flipdigital the page, cut out, auxiliarymagazine.com tack on your wall!
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Annalee Belle photographer Tragic Glamour fashion stylist Annalee Belle makeup artist Annalee Belle hair stylist Annalee Belle model Annalee Belle
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summer 2016 AUXILIARY
ISSUE FASHION PREVIEW SUMMER 2016 purchase the print or digital edition at auxiliarymagazine.com
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Posh Fairytale Couture Rachel Sigmon draws from her cosmetology background and a raw internal passion to create the masterful headpieces of her Posh Fairytale Couture line. Sigmon is a powerful and creative fashion force when it comes to the headpiece game. Once she graduated with her cosmetology degree she began making art wigs and working on sculptural hair art. Eventually she transitioned into her current venture, which was creating stunning headpieces that, once placed on a model’s head, take on a life of their own. Sigmon, who is based in Kaiserslautern, Germany, will be moving to the San Francisco area soon and hopes to build a community of interested clientele there. She took time out to speak with Auxiliary about her background, process, and the future of Posh Fairytale Couture. interview by Vanessa Oswald photographer Eyes Open Photography makeup artist Rachel Sigmon hair stylist Rachel Sigmon & Susanna Roth models Susanna Roth & Gabriella Porter AUXILIARY summer 2016
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INFATUATION photographer Stephanie Bell makeup artist Veronica Scuderi hair stylist Rio Marcantonio nail stylist Rio Marcantonio models Malissa Otting & Luke Simioni at Push
AUXILIARY summer 2016
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Devil photographer Saryn Christina fashion stylist Madeleine Malfi makeup artist Morgan Yates hair stylist Morgan Yates photographer assistant Sam Hodges fashion stylist assistant Darin Malfi model Matty Morbid
AUXILIARY summer 2016
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Luxe photographer Saryn Christina fashion stylist Johnny Sakalis makeup artist Fanny Gavin hair stylist Fanny Gavin model Sharon TK
AUXILIARY summer 2016
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Suspend photographer Jennifer Link Kieffer fashion stylist Shannon Kramp makeup artist Mallory Jay Stoos hair stylist Lauren Ashley models Anastasia Maria, Samm Haney & Erica Cope lyra manufacturer Coggs Circus
AUXILIARY summer 2016
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