AUTUMN WINTER 2015 TREND REPORT
VISUAL MERCHANDISING & INSTORE TRENDS - 4
CREATIVE DIRECTION - 16
PRINT & GRAPHIC - 28
MENSWEAR - 40
AYSEN MILLER, JADE CHIDLOW & FRANCESCA THOMAS WISEMAN
LINEAR AND LIGHTFORM Linear lighting was a theme evident throughout many of this seasons catwalk and fashion exhibitions. Clean clear and crisp. Straight lighting was used subtly to highlight, create atmosphere and most emphasise product. This trend is set to be big within the visual merchandising realm purely for its effortless simplicity and effectiveness. It adds an edge of class without stealing the lime light. A glimpse of warmth without burning. Garments in this seasons meanswear shows have reflected this idea of linear lighting, sometimes with mirrored patterns to those on the runway above or below and sometimes with fragmented fabrics emphasised in the cool blue glow of the straight angled bulbs. A trend so sleek and straight to the point be careful not to miss it completley.
CONSIDERED CONSTRUCTION The considered construction trend found from visual merchandising and in store patterns is something that has been evolving over the years through fashion and has now made its mark. It is been seen repeatedly in catwalk shows and runways, from the calculated set design to buildings themselves being left as they are to give an authentic feel to a show. Considered construction is not only a trend that many catwalk shows and stores are following, but the vm inspired trend is also something that designers are viewing as an up and coming trend in a variety of clothing lines. Designers have made a point of showing off how something was made, by creating the seams with different colours, or leaving parts of a garment unsewn.
FROM THE OUTSIDE IN Instore design and visual merchandising displays are all embracing the simplicity of the outdoors that surrounds us and taking inspiration from what is outside of the glass front stores. Themes of forests magical woodlands, costal landscapes and buzzing allotments are all themes evident this season. Not only does this encourage the matters of sustainability within the fashion industry it also shows how fashion is an art form and a growing industry that has more substance than simple t-shirts and trousers made in the middle of Asia. This season the idea of ‘outside in’ is also evident in a lot of the editorials, showing that this trend is here to stay and with the weather improving the way it is, why not we all need a little extra sunshine in our lives.
BLURRED LINES The blurred lines trend consumer is someone that is comfortable in their own style and focuses purely on the clothes. As a trend that has passed through fashion time and time before we believe for this AW15 trend report it is important to focus on how it has evolved. Blurred lines does not just mean unisex clothing, but it looks at the way we have adapted equality into society’s fashion. Runway models have constantly been changing and there is now not as much distinction between male and female models – with regards to hair and beauty – as the clothes are a lot less gender focused. Designers have also welcomed this new trend with open arms as they realise it is more cost effective as they can create clothes for an open audience that are comfortable in their own style.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS The Great outdoors is a creative direction trend that is showing a reoccurring theme of encouraging men to get outdoors, wear sensible and comfy clothes. With it being in trend it is bringing a healthy and sensible lifestyle to the consumers attention and encouraging it to be considered ‘’in fashion’’.
FEASIBLE CONTROL Feasible control is a sustainable movement within the fashion industry that is creating a trend for people to reuse and recycle. Vintage clothing is a current trend that is encouraging people to make recycling popular and sought after. The fashion industry is leading the way in all things to do with encouraging the use of old and unwanted items, whether it be the VM within stores or the backdrops to campaign advertisements. Not only does it save money it also gives an authentic outset for a company.
WALKING CATCHPHRASE Walking catchphrase encourages the younger generation to have an influence on high end fashion. Slogans on clothes is something that you would typically expect from low end high street but up and coming streetwear brands have been using them. This trend is aimed at a certain market who enjoy a comical, yet tasteful and well thought out approach to fashion; and this is what walking catchphrase encompasses. This trend inspires freedom of speech as rather than the unamusing, trying-to-be-relevant catchphrases we have seen in the past – designers are challenging conventions by using non stereotypical catchphrases that would usually be seen as passing comments.
REINFORCED BRANDING Reinforced branding is a noticeable new trend that has been splashed over garments in an unavoidable manor. They are endorsing their own brand on their clothes in replacement for a pattern or style. This is a particular trend that has the potential to look very low end high street, however with the right placing and style by the designer it will become a necessity to be seen with it on. This trend has a link with the ‘’walking catch phrase’’ as it is an expression of style. This trend will most inevitably have a trickle down effect into high street eventually.
PAINT MATTERS Spilled paint, accidental splatter and drip dried acrylics. Decorating gone wrong or the new way to wear colour without blocking it to make yourself look like a walking piece of Bauhaus artwork, I think the latter. Paint is everywhere and in a good way, shoes, clothes in store and out, this seasons print and graphic scene is like a walking advert for Dulux paint just without the cute shaggy dog. Givenchy led the way with its monochrome paint splatter leading us to a more spring like denim alternative giving men the option of more than black for their wardrobes, but still with a little black. Thanks Givenchy for challenging how and why we wear colour the way we do, now let’s get back to having a little fun.
THE DANDY MAN The dandy man is opulent and sophisticated yet with a modern twist. Rich colours and luxurious fabrics make up this modern gentleman’s trend. ‘Dandy’ a term often used to define a man who places strong importance on one’s physical appearance, is the perfect way to describe this trend as it escalates and grows from past trends in men’s fashion. This trend encapsulates eccentric ideals and is almost retro in a sense, it focuses a lot on layering and the mismatch of fabrics – particularly seen with silk shirts and velvet trousers.
DARK MATTER Dark matter has been a creeping trend that has slowly been working its way into the one of the biggest trends of the century. ‘’black on black’’ has become more of a fashion statement than wearing high end designers head to toe. Previously dark colours would have stayed within the A/W collections where as now you will also see it plastered amongst the brightest S/S collections.
MODERN ANDROGYNY
Think men in knee high socks, neoprene skirts and shirts with frills that don’t scream Austin Powers. Modern androgyny steps away from the traditional genderless looks fashion has been plied with over the last decade and begins to challenge society’s perception. Traditionally androgynous clothing was a way to spare gender equality, offering clothes that would typically be more masculine, for females. Recently we have seen a massive change in this as menswear is becoming a lot more feminine – which challenges the blurred lines trend as that focuses on fashion being unisex, but modern androgyny is diluting fashion proving that gender equality is more accepted. Similarly to the transgender model Andreja Pejic returning to the runway for Giles AW15; modern androgyny is not only changing equality but also gay rights as fashion now has a voice to challenge society.
UNIVERSAL WORKS
Our chosen brand is Universal Works. We were drawn to this brand due to the very strong, brand values that they hold and the humble and honest heritage that they promise to deliver. They aim to defy traditional fashion by adding their own spin, and modernising certain products that most designers would simply ignore. They deliver a twist on current street wear with a modern, and almost elegant English style. Universal Works has an ethos that promises to offer its consumer understated, affordable street wear whilst maintaining great shapes, good quality and utility whilst still being a sustainable brand. We believe that we can apply our four chosen trends well to Universal Works, as they are a brand that are not afraid to be real and confident with the products they provide. They are humble, yet graphic and stylish and a lot of effort and soul goes into making this brand work.
ATTRIBUTES
PERSONALITY CONFIDENT HONEST REAL
STYLISH STREET WEAR AFFORDABLE
ESSENCE UNDERSTATED, HUMBLE BRITISH MALE CLOTHING BRAND
PROMISE
SOURCE OF AUTHORITY
GREAT UTILITY SUSTAINABLE
HERITAGE ENGLISH
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