P R O P O S A L LEVEL 3 DISSERTATION
1. MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY 2. PSYCHOANALYSIS AND TRANSGENDERISM VS. GENDER NEUTRALITY
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Aysen Miller N0510751 Fashion Communication and Promotion Promotion and Context FASH20032 Word Count: 2872
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PREFACE 5 INTRODUCTION 6 IDEA ONE 8
CONTENTS
- CARTOGRAM 10 - AIMS & OBJECTIVES 14 - CONSUMER PROFILE 16 IDEA TWO 20 - CARTOGRAM 22 - AIMS & OBJECTIVES 26 - CONSUMER PROFILE 28 CONCLUSION 30 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 32 REFERENCES 33 BIBLIOGRAPHY 34 APPENDIX 38 - RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 38 - PRESENTATION SLIDES 39 - MARKETING MODELS & THEORIES 44 - QUESTIONNAIRES 46 - RESULTS 47
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Figure 2: (pemorama, 2007)
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PREFACE This dissertation proposal is ultimately based on my experience, strengths and weaknesses over my time studying BA Hons Fashion Communication and Promotion, with an insight to the fashion industry. This report will reflect on the skills and techniques needed in this worldwide trade that I have acquired over the past two years, from using the Harvard referencing system – which has helped me further my research and citing techniques, Adobe Creative Suite – expanding my creative ability being able to artistically visualise my work and the use of various marketing models which has helped with idea expansion and a clearer analytical view on consumer behaviour. By deconstructing the FCP process triangle and focusing on the creative concept and execution, this report will highlight my ability to curate strong and unique ideas, aesthetically pleasing outcomes, and eloquent language skills appropriate for the PR and events industry which is where my careers aspirations fundamentally lie.
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The aim of this proposal is to suggest two ideas that I am considering for my final year dissertation. I am exploring current social ideas that are relevant to the industry whilst always keeping in mind an FCP outcome. In order to curate an extensive, current and attentiongrabbing piece of final year work I intend to grasp a wider knowledge on mental health issues and issues regarding transgenderism and gender neutrality both within the fashion industry through this dissertation proposal. Ultimately, a great interest of mine is social media and the youth. My first proposed area of study is going to be looking at mental health issues of young people, and how these are being portrayed in the fashion industry. It is a concern that has cropped up numerous times yet has never been fully examined, but it is becoming now, more than ever, an extremely serious issue. In this report I aim to analyse the psychological behaviour of a human being, and how different mental health issues can arise and escalate. I then want to focus on the youth of this current generation and how these issues have an effect on their lives. For the FCP aspect of this report, I will look into how certain depictions in the media and fashion industry have influences on these issues, whether anything is being done to stop it, and how the industry can fight to make a change. Following on from this my next area of study is going to observe psychoanalysis and gender neutrality. I am going to begin by looking at the transgender community and then proceeding to hone in and focus on the sexualisation of the different genders. In this report I want to focus on the way that this has been seen as a taboo subject and how it is now being portrayed in the media and fashion industry, including the effects that this has on society. From transgenderism, I then began to explore the roles of men and women within fashion and how they are depicted so I am going to look into this further. Within this topic I will also explore, social views whilst delving into the idea of freedom of speech where relevant and being oneself, and whilst investigating the term: metro sexuality.
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INTRODUCTION
Figure 3 (unknown)
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IDEA ONE
“’La mode est la fille du hasard et la mère des grandes tragédies.’ Fashion is the daughter of chance and the mother of great tragedies” where all trends are involved. My interpretation of this French quote is that no matter what the intention, anything portrayed or curated in the fashion industry can go either of two ways: good, or bad and in my opinion where mental health is involved, it is the latter. For the initial idea of my report I intend to explore mental health, the culture surrounding these issues and in terms of fashion, analyse the way in which they are adapted and portrayed. In order to do this dissertation proposal I have looked at a variety of articles both in physical magazines and online, a majority of these being from i-D magazine where I have found countless opinions on my chosen subject area. As you can see mental health is an issue that appears in fashion numerous times yet it is never addressed as a serious issue and is often looked upon by most as a fashion trend.
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Figure 4 (Buro247.hr, 2015)
‘anna wintour says we need to talk about mental health’ (Newell-Hanson, 2015)
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In reference to my trend cartogram (see appendix), I have found “individuals who are responsible for the development of an innovation or the introduction of a new idea” (Raymond, 2010) – the Innovators, placed on the bottom of the Diffusion of Innovation Curve. The personalities I have looked at for this idea begin with Marilyn Monroe’s mother, Isabella Blow who “allegedly killed herself out of concern for her ‘waning celebrity status’” (The Oxford Student, 2014) and Alexander McQueen, all celebrities that had been found to suffer from mental illnesses that have been displayed in the media. Following on from this the idea of being thin and the fashion that ‘skinny is beautiful’ I believe Twiggy has also been a main contributor to current mental health issues such as body dysmorphia as she was one of the most original stick-thin icons in fashion. Subsequently, on the most dominant part of my cartogram are the Trend Drivers who are the base of where I believe mental health issues can stem from, where I have selected examples such as, high school: a setting that can provide stress and anxiety for a lot of young people, TV series’ which presents everyday student scenarios as overzealous and a majority of youth try to achieve this fabricated lifestyle. Leading onto the next topic of my cartogram the Trend Impact – the most current and influential sector for this report, following on from the Innovators and Drivers for this trend I have picked out key articles and books that have a play a strong part. I have referenced articles such as ‘Fashion and mental health: the one trend that nobody mentions’ in order to understand more about this topic. “Is there something about the fashion business which is simply not conducive to good mental health?” (The Oxford Student, 2014) The idea that it is potentially fashion itself as a factor and not just the way that they portray certain topics is extremely interesting to me which I want to investigate further. Linking onto the consequences of this trend, I am able to look at how it affects young people and thinking about the late majority, initial thoughts for a potential question are:
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‘In a society where trends and media are prioritised above mental health issues, are the fashion industry making it worse for Generation Z or is there a way to inflict some positive change?’
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Figure 5 (i-D Magazine, 2015)
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AIMS & OBJECTIVES The aim of this proposal is to revise the idea of mental health issues as a fashion trend and recognise the problem with this generation in hope for a better future. Another objective is to establish the relevance of these issues and how current they are/are being perceived in current society and the fashion industry, with reference to Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs to try and understand the social and psychological thought processes and the idea of self-actualisation. My final aim of this proposal is to curate a fashion related product that provides awareness to this current society with the intent of making a substantial change. I have evaluated the current market through looking at secondary resources such as books on psychology and Generation Z, and have then carried out more detailed research looking at online articles, newspapers and journals on mental health issues, the fashion industry, culture and how these all relate so that I am able to come up with a valid answer to my question with an outcome that will be FCP related. With reference to the Populist model I hope to gather information on how this trend has influenced and then been adapted by these Generation Z “style tribes� (Polhemus, 1994) as they are at the forefront of complexity and observability for this issue.
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Figure 6-11 (see illustrations)
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CONSUMER PROFILE
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Looking back on my idea and reflecting on the research I have carried out, I am focusing on the Trend Impact/Consequence sectors of my cartogram and found a gap in the market here. Therefore, I have decided my target consumer is going to be part of Generation Z - 16-18 year olds. In the Diffusion of Innovation Curve they lie firmly in the Early Majority sector as “Once something has demonstrated attentionworthiness, Gen Z can become intensely committed and focused� (CTV Media Blog, 2015) meaning that they pick up trends and can adapt to them extremely quickly and will in turn be able to pass this on with great speed. I want to also target industry experts so I can get a greater outlook on the issues I am focusing on and then also try and interview some support groups so I can get a better in depth understanding of my market and how these issues can affect them.
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Figure 12 (Mashable, 1929)
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IDEA TWO “Artistic platforms like the fashion industry have always been receptive to cultural diversity because as creative people this is the first thing that you do, to find ways to express something that is different from a visual standpoint... People are starting to see that there are more ways to be beautiful, that there’s another side to gender that we should celebrate, and I can’t think of another industry that would do that.” (Lees, 2014) Following on from this my next area of study is going to observe gender neutrality and the sexualisation involved. This second idea is quite broad so after more extensive research I will need to curate a much stronger idea. I believe that now, in today’s society, roles are being reversed as we are in the age of free speech and free will, and this is something that the fashion industry have been quick to pick up on. Another aspect of this proposal is the fact that, in fashion today we are beginning to see the rejection of femininity and I want to look into the idea of metro sexuality becoming the next big thing. Looking at secondary resources such as books on fashion and queer dressing and the psychoanalysis of transgenderism, through the films about the transgender/gender neutral society I have found a gap in the market where I believe I can create thought a provoking and relevant FCP related question.
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Figure 13 (unknown)
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Referring back to my trend cartogram (see appendix) as the Innovators of this trend I have chosen April Ashley as she was one of the first to experience gender reassignment surgery in the UK whilst during the 1950s maintained a strong modelling career until the late 60s when she was outed as transgender by a tabloid newspaper and her career came to an abrupt end and also Amanda Lepore known as a “transsexual Barbie” (Lees, 2014) who was seen as a muse in the 1980s for David LaChapelle and many other photographers. Moving onto the Drivers of this trend, Laverne Cox, Carmen Carerra and Andrea Pejic – all current transgender personalities that have a role in the media and fashion industry. Also looking at celebrities such as Brad Pitt and David Beckham for the metro sexual half of my cartogram, as in today’s society they encompass every aspect of metro sexuality and a shift in stereotypical gender patterns. Next come the Trend Impact, again a very prominent facet of this proposal as it defines current movements in society and further illustrates what inspired this trend and also what consumers are influenced by. I have referenced online journals such as The Telegraph and NY Times to find that “It was not so much the fusion of “metropolitan” and “heterosexual” that produced the original fashion change. It was the hint of bisexuality” (Menkes, 2014) that initiated an imbalance in typical gender stereotypes. In addition, online journals such as Taylor & Francis Online – “Concepts of gender are
socially constructed, reinforced, and potentially challenged via public discourses including those of mainstream media. Media serve “as instrumental sites for regulating the boundaries of gender and sexual identities” (Moscowitz, 2010, p. 26).” (Who Defines Gender Diversity? Sourcing Routines and Representation in Mainstream U.S. News Stories About Transgenderism, 2015) confirming my thoughts and direction in which I want to take this proposal. Next examining the consequences of this trend I have gathered information on how this trend has imposed on society, what is currently happening and evolving. The effect of a potential complete rejection of femininity and focus on gender neutrality would change the way fashion worked in the future. Magazines, films, videos, beauty, clothing are areas that will all have to evolve and follow on from this new trend which is an area I believe will have a strong impact and be extremely interesting to watch. From this research and analysing the consequences of my cartogram in relation to the Diffusion of Innovation Curve, initial ideas for a potential question are:
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‘In a society where sexualisation of gender is everything, are we beginning to reject feminity and welcome gender neutrality?’
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Figure 14 (i-D Magazine, 2015)
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Through even more extensive research, I aim to take this idea down a more specific path in the hope of finding a link and create a connection between transgenderism and gender neutrality in terms of sexualisation of the sexes so that I can curate an extremely thought provoking, relevant piece of work with an FCP outcome. I aim to study the day-to-day lives of this society, find out what influences and unites them and pose my question – how will this have an effect on the future of fashion?
Figure 15-20 (see illustrations)
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AIMS & OBJECTIVES As transgenderism and metro sexuality are both two separate topics, they have certain ways that they can be linked. “The typical metrosexual is a young man with money to spend, living in or within easy reach of a metropolis — because that’s where all the best shops, clubs, gyms and hairdressers are. He might be officially gay, straight or bisexual, but this is utterly immaterial because he has clearly taken himself as his own love object and pleasure as his sexual preference.” (Simpson, 2002) The notion of self-love and self-optimisation is an idea I am focusing on and trying to connect with through gender neutrality and where it is heading for the future. Using secondary research such as articles, books and films I want to gain an understanding of how transgenderism began and how it has evolved and adapted over the years to fit in with society. I want to then look into metro sexuality through again, some online journals and what is happening in current society through primary research by creating some online questionnaires and holding focus groups. The final aim of this topic is to be able to provide a substantial answer to my question, develop a structured thesis on the connections between sexualisation in fashion and gender neutrality whilst linking it all back to fashion communication and promotion.
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For this research topic my consumer is going to be in the Early Majority section of the Diffusion of Innovation Curve. I am estimating my consumer to be around the ages of 18-25 with a strong fashion following. The idea for my target market has stemmed from the Trend Impact section of my cartogram as I believe what is happening at the moment is relevant and should be recognised by Generation Y, whilst also considering the Trend Future element for my potential project outcome.
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CONSUMER PROFILE
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In summary, for my first idea: Mental Health Issues in the Fashion Industry – key points that I am looking into are factors of mental health issues in young people, the role that media and the fash-ion industry have in terms of mental health, and social media and any possible connections. After weighing my research, and thinking in depth about the second idea: Psychoanalysis and Transgenderism vs. Gender Neutrality, I am inclined to carry out more research to evaluate gen-der neutrality, transgenderism and their links to fashion much further. I aim to focus on three main sections which are: the evolution of transgenderism, defining metro sexuality and how gender roles are changing the fashion industry.. Research is going to be a fundamental part of this report in order to fully grasp my idea and to target a specific consumer market. I started by thinking how I could ascertain specific members with-in these communities and who would benefit most from new ideals. Over the summer period I intend to carry out research with various different methods to meet my aims and objectives for each topic which will hopefully provide me with a clearer direction and outcome for my final year dissertation. I will be looking at interviewing industry experts, such as support groups, magazine editors, bloggers and photographers to achieve an overview of how these trends are trickled down in the industry. I am also planning to educate myself on a variety of different psychology and fashion theories that are applicable to my ideas, as well as redeveloping my two cartograms to help visualise my findings – plan of research and explanations can be seen in my appendix. Through the research carried out for this dissertation proposal I have increased my knowledge on mental health issues and the problems they cause, as well as gaining more insight to transgenderism and learning about different aspects of gender portrayal in society. I am inspired by the different topics and have ideas for potential FCP outcomes for both proposals.
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CONCLUSION
Figure 21 (Pinterest.com, 2015)
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1 - Upworthy, (2015). How depression and anxiety can feel. [digital image] Available at: http://www. upworthy.com/a-photographer-took-12-stunning-pictures-to-capture-how-depression-and-anxietycan-feel [Accessed 28 May 2015]. Fig 2 - pemorama, (2007). This is the enemy. [digital image] Available at: https://www.flickr.com/ photos/holapemo/2113762760/in/photostream [Accessed 16 May 2015]. Fig 3 - source unknown Fig 4 - Buro247.hr, (2015). intervju, Buro 24/7. [online] Available at: http://www.buro247.hr/all/term/ intervju [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 5 - i-D Magazine, (2015). Effect of fashion image on mental health. [digital image] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/the-effect-of-fashion-images-on-mental-health [Accessed 22 May 2015]. Fig 6 - Rebelle Society, (2015). The cruelty of mental illness. [image] Available at: http://www. rebellesociety.com/2015/05/20/the-cruelty-of-mental-illness-2/ [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 7 - Tumblr, (2010). The art of self destruction. [image] Available at: http://theartofselfdestruction. tumblr.com/page/28 [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 8 - Daily Mail, (2007). Pixie’s snappy Twiggy look. [image] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/ tvshowbiz/article-437366/Pixies-snappy-Twiggy-look.html [Accessed 26 May 2015]. Fig 9 - Tumblr, (2010). The art of self destruction. [image] Available at: http://theartofselfdestruction. tumblr.com/page/28 [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 10 - The Odyssey Online, (2015). Anxiety and depression 101. [image] Available at: http:// theodysseyonline.com/baylor/anxiety-depression-101/98484 [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 11 - My Not So Fair Lady, (2015). The Destructive Inevitable Death of Alexander McQueen. [image] Available at: https://mynotsofairlady.wordpress.com/2015/03/01/the-destructive-inevitable-deathof-alexander-mcqueen/ [Accessed 29 May 2015]. Fig 12 - Mashable, (1929). A young Marilyn Monroe with her mother at the beach. [online] Available at: http://mashable.com/2015/03/01/marilyn-monroe-child/ [Accessed 24 May 2015]. Fig 13 - source unknown Fig 14 - Cbschicago.files.wordpress.com, (2015). [image] Available at: https://cbschicago.files.wordpress. com/2014/07/gender-neutral.jpg?w=1500 [Accessed 29 May 2015]. Fig 15 - Pinterest.com, (2015). [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/291115563389334466/ [Accessed 29 May 2015]. Fig 16 - Pinterest.com, (2015). David Beckham H&M. [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/468233692478801361/ [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 17 - By faith online, (2015). Making sense of transgenderism. [image] Available at: http:// byfaithonline.com/making-sense-of-transgenderism/ [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 18 - Catholic Voices, (2015). Transgenderism. [image] Available at: http://www.catholicvoices.ca/ issues/transgenderism/ [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 19 - Twicsy, (2015). miki_takayuki : Curvy models nude stance on sexualisation : Australian Women’s Weekly http://t.co/GC8qwnHQfc #ausww @WomensWeeklyMag http://t.co/IcRxu2H3vu | Twicsy Twitter Picture Discovery. [online] Available at: http://twicsy.com/i/dDfSug [Accessed 31 May 2015]. Fig 20 - Pinterest.com, (2015). Role reversal. [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/534521049501052198/ [Accessed 27 May 2015]. Fig 21 - Pinterest.com, (2015). Body shapes. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/406449935095015936/ [Accessed 31 May 2015].
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Sankey, E. (2015). here comes the rain and the sad, sad songs that deal with depression. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/here-comes-the-rain-and-the-sadsad-songs-that-deal-with-depression [Accessed 5 May 2015]. SGV-NOW Project, (2015). Films: Sexualization of Girls & Women and Body Image. [online] Available at: http://sgvnowproject.weebly.com/films-sexualization-of-girls--women-and-body-image.html [Accessed 3 May 2015]. Simpson, M. (2002). Meet the metrosexual. [Blog] Salon. Available at: http://www.salon. com/2002/07/22/metrosexual/ [Accessed 30 May 2015]. Simpson, M. (2014). The metrosexual is dead. Long live the ‘spornosexual’. The Telegraph. [online] Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/fashion-and-style/10881682/The-metrosexual-is-dead.-Long-live-the-spornosexual.html [Accessed 30 May 2015]. Simpson, M. (2015). ‘Metrosexual? That rings a bell...’ Mark Simpson on the appropriation of his bastard child. [online] Marksimpson.com. Available at: http://www.marksimpson.com/pages/journalism/metrosexual_ios.html [Accessed 25 May 2015]. Staff, i. (2015). topman team up with male suicide prevention charity, calm. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/topman-team-up-with-male-suicide-preventioncharity-calm [Accessed 3 May 2015]. Staff, i. (2015). we ask young activists who they are voting for in the general election. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/we-ask-young-activists-who-they-are-voting-for-in-the-general-election [Accessed 6 May 2015]. Staff, i. (2015). a manifesto for a modern fashion industry. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/a-manifesto-for-a-modern-fashion-industry [Accessed 3 May 2015]. Staff, i. (2015). wolfgang tillmans profiles russia’s queer community. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/wolfgang-tillmans-profiles-russias-queer-community [Accessed 6 May 2015]. TAN, A. (2015). White House Has Its 1st Gender-Neutral Bathroom. [online] ABC News. Available at: http://abcnews.go.com/US/white-house-makes-1st-gender-neutral-bathroom/story?id=30221513 [Accessed 12 May 2015]. Team, i. (2015). its time e got answers on why the mental health system is failing a generation. i-D Magazine. [online] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/its-time-we-got-answers-on-
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APPENDIX RESEARCH METHODOLOGY Research Method: Online Questionnaire (mental health) Sample (Aged 14-45): 46 Purpose: To gain some initial insight into the report brief such as general awareness of my topic issues and a range of common thoughts and opinions. Strengths: The research looked into people’s personal opinions of a variety from a variety of ages allowing me to get a broad response for this project. It also helped highlight areas of interest for the mental health topic for me to look into even further. Weaknesses: Due to the way I targeted the survey I got a wide range of ages meaning that my responses were very broad, next time I will focus the age to my target market to get more accurate results. Outcome: The outcomes of this allowed me to gain insights into the idea of ‘a role model’, opinions on celebrities and media and an understanding of how mental health issues are perceived. Effectiveness: This method was very effective and quite insightful as I was able to analyse my findings and from this draw new inspiration for my proposal idea. Research Method: Films Sample: 7 Purpose: To gain an understanding of how my two topics are perceived in everyday life and also to see how different people interpret the two. Strengths: The research looked into all aspects of transgenderism and gender neutrality as I watched a number of films on this topic. Weaknesses: However, the films I watched regarding mental health issues were very focused on a particular aspect so I would need to look at some others to gain a wider overview. Outcome: The outcomes of this allowed me to gain insights into the way these issues are perceived, especially interesting to see how someone had portrayed these through a camera and still stuck to key issues. Effectiveness: This method was quite effective as it allowed me to experience my issues in a different perspective and gain further insights, but I need to carry out more research to back some of these ideas. Still to carry out for my primary research in this methodology are: surveys, focus groups, and interviews.
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LEVEL 3 PRESENTATION SLIDES
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MARKETING MODELS
The Diffusion of Innovation Curve - Everett Rogers, 1962.
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Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs - Abraham Maslow, 1943 (A Theory of Human Motivation)
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QUESTIONNAIRES
1. Are you male or female? 2. How old are you? 3. Who would you describe as your role models? 4. Which mental health issues are you most aware of? 5. Do you feel influenced by what you see in the media? 6. What are you opinions on celebrities as role models for young people? 7. To what extent do you agree that media portray mental health issues in the wrong way? 8. Do you feel as if mental health issues are being discussed enough in today’s society and why? 9. Do you believe the media and fashion industry has an impact on issues with youth today? 10. “The fashion industry thrives on superficiality...” To what extent do you agree with this statement?
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RESULTS
93% female
28% aged 14-17
7% male
2% aged 26-34
65% aged 18-25
2% aged 35-44
2% aged 45+ depression was the most known issue with 93% of people being aware, along with anxiety/panic attacks at 80% and bipolar disorder at 74%, however hypomania was the most disregarded issue with only 4% of people aware 48% of people said they were sometimes influenced by the media, 30% said yes all the time and 22% of people said no most people agreed or were undecided that the media portray mental health issues in the wrong way 93% believe media and fashion industry has an impact on issues with youth today
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