February 2016

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Mo

FEBRUARY

2016

tor cy cle u To rM ag azi ne

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure Volume 22 No. 2

MotoCaribe Exploring Hispaniola

IMPACT RIDING ADIRONDACK DIRTDAZE TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE STREET TWIN




W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4

22

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

ON THE MARK ....................................................7 BACKLASH..........................................................9 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............12 Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826

BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................14 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................16

phone

973.948.4176

SHIRA’S ICE CREAM RUN ...............................20

fax

973.948.0823

INDUSTRY INFOBITES.....................................44

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................46

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

FE AT U RE S MOTOCARIBE - EXPLORING HISPANIOLA ....22 2015 NY IMS RECAP ........................................40

MOTO R C YCL E S ‘16 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE STREET TWIN ....34 2016 NEW BIKE SPOTLIGHT ...........................36 THE DIRT ON DIRT RALLIES ...........................43

PR O DU C T S SW-MOTECH TRAX PANNIERS .......................11 ROCKETMAN Z-ME VEST ...............................47

40

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2016. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.



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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

New York INterNatIoNal MotorcYcle Show What we are expected to say… On a warmish weekend in December the International Motorcycle Show once again rolled into the Javits Center in New York City. All the major manufacturers were there with a lot of new machines to be seen, ogled and sat upon. Among some of the standouts was a new powerplant from Victory, a new hipster standard, the XSR900, from Yamaha, a very cool crowd of Bonnies from Triumph (Love the Thruxton R) and a very sweet adventure machine from Honda called the Africa Twin. Ducati had a wide array of machines, as did Harley, Kawasaki, Suzuki and most of the other players in the motorsports world. Once again the manufacturers did a splendid job of bringing the newest offerings to the floor of the Javits Center. Mother Nature did her part too. The fair weather brought many to New York’s west side on their machines and it was a rare sight to see so many motorcycles parked across the street from the convention center during a December motorcycle show. Ahh, Global Warming – we should embrace it. Our small Backroads crew was there all weekend to say hi, hand out issues and chat it up with fellow riders and the many riding friends we have made over the years of publishing this magazine and holding our many weekend rallies; and this is always the high point of the show for both Shira and me (Notso & Pepe too!) But, this year many of the people that normally drop by our booth passed on the show; whether for family commitments or simply to go take advantage of the warm weather gift.

Which leads us to what we are going to say… Timing is everything. That being said, the mid-December Motorcycle Show is a perfect example of bad timing, misguided planning and a bit of apathy. A few years ago it was a surprise December snowstorm. This past year was a surprise December thaw. Add in the holiday mess with exorbitant hotel prices, grid-lock traffic, drunken Santas and the general mess New York is in December - just two weeks before Christmas and in the middle of Chanukah - and you might understand my point. For the third year in a row the powers that be – Advanstar (a large media conglomerate) – has held the largest motorcycle show on their calendar on the worst weekend of their calendar. There has been many reasons bandied about for this off kilter date, and we are not privy to the hard facts, but we are sure somebody’s bottom line is involved somehow. Yes, the manufacturers were there and yes there were a number of great new machines and revamped previous models to get excited about. But, for many of the people, shops, vendors and companies that take and make the time, the effort and eat the high expense to attend the New York edition of this show - the “magic” is just about gone. The long black curtain could not hide the fact that a good portion of the floor was empty. For us it didn’t help that we were buried in the doldrums of the last row, lost near the tumultuous, loud and obnoxious stunt show – at least the School of Rock kids played Ides of March’s “Vehicle;” and we were not a far walk from the bathroom – a tiny saving grace. This being mentioned might tell you how excited I was about it all. We have done this show for 21 years straight and remember when it was really a special, fun and exciting event and have now seen it wane and falter (Continued on Page 8)


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

SquIgglY lINeS aNd SlIpperY SNakeS Seems about the same time each year, when the state and counties get their budget approvals and the road crews are awarded funding to fix our beloved tarmac, there’s a rush to get out there and spend it all before the weather turns. This usually happens, at least in the east, just about the middle of the riding season and continues until the fall. Understand, I’m all for keeping up the roads and fixing the potholes, cracks and crevices that plague our roadways due to the harsh winter weather. However, this year I saw things that seemed to go beyond the normal maintenance. One of the nicest roads in our area, with the prettiest view of the surrounding hills and valleys, is Augusta Hill Road. In every season, you can see for miles – the green buds emerging on the trees, the abundant farms and animals, the amazing colors of autumn and the snow covered hills. Many times we have parked atop this road to watch the local fireworks at the fairgrounds or ballpark. We travel this road nearly every day on our routine errands and it was just such a time that I encountered the busy road workers taking care of business. They were blocking the road and systematically filling in, what they thought, was every single blemish they could find. Funny, I travel this every day and I never thought it needed any work but I am not skilled in the art of road maintenance. Just a couple of days later, the same thing was happening on another piece of tarmac in my daily route; again, I wasn’t sure that crack sealing was needed, but then I thought maybe that’s what they do before actually paving the road. Again, I thought it was a perfectly fine piece of asphalt, but who am I to question the road gods. It wasn’t until I had my motorcycle out for a nice afternoon stroll, on one

Page 5 of those Go-To routes Brian spoke about, that I realized why I had a dislike for the overzealous crack sealers. There is a beautiful combination of turns on one of the local country roads, complete with elevation change and open sight that I always look forward to taking. In either direction, it demands attention. On this particular day, it demanded much more than that, as the road crews had done their best at snaking whatever compound they use across both lanes. It was a warm-ish summer day, which heightened the slipperiness of this goo, and as I banked to the right, I felt the wheels starting to slip just enough to have me slow, straighten and tiptoe through the rest of the turn. Looking ahead I could see that this mess continued for the rest of my turns. Before I go any further, I want to make perfectly clear that I think the Sussex county road crews do an awesome job. They are out in early spring with the sweepers, clearing the winter’s road grit off the shoulders and cleaning up debris. The gentleman who takes care of mowing the sides of the roads is very diligent at his work and appears to take great pride in doing a very thorough job. Thanks, and keep up the great work. However, whatever the substance is that is used on these horrible tar snakes is absolutely treacherous to motorcyclists. Brian pointed out that they normally put some grit down before the sticky stuff dries to make it less slippery, but I haven’t found that to be of much help on what I’ve ridden over. I remember one particular stretch of horrendous sealant on NY 30 several years ago. This road is such a joy to ride and whatever they put down made it absolutely perilous to anyone on two wheels. On the other hand, when we were riding in New Zealand we were on some of the stickiest, grittiest pavement I can remember. I’m sure the Kiwis must go through more rubber than other two-wheelers on the planet, but taking a motorcycle through the twists and turns of the South Island, I was about as confident as I’ve ever felt on pavement. My request, to the folks in charge of this snaky snot, is to please take motorcyclists into consideration when contracting to your suppliers. We have enough to worry about on the roads.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

loNg lIve the old SwItcheroo I am a troubled soul thanks to the changing world of the User Interface. It is everywhere: the computer, the phone, the TV, the microwave, the backyard weather station, the dishwasher and especially the latest automobiles. It’s even on motorcycles of course, but I almost hesitate to put them in the same group as the others as most of the traditional controls are still being used. But whoever the Lord, Lady or hyper intelligent rodent was that came up with the touch screen unleashed a brilliant leap forward in machine management, that, unfortunately, is also a scourge on mankind. And while motorcycles are mostly free from this flat-panel touchy-feely invasion for the moment, I greatly fear this will not last. There are fundamental forces that may just keep this technology at bay, and there will be a life and death struggle with logical pragmatism. Will reason and balance prevail, and thus create contemporary interfaces that give us a brilliant new way of operating things on our motorcycles that are actually better? This question tasks me, because I’m becoming a bit of a curmudgeon when it comes to the changing nature of what we used to call switches, buttons and toggles and verniers or verns (that last bit I am coining myself. It refers to sliding switches). The first time I ever rode a motorcycle was a bit like the first time I ever flew a plane, in that you have to learn where all the switches, buttons, toggles and verns (see above) are, what they do and how to get comfortable with using them by feel instead of solely relying on your vision.

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Getting to know that two-stoke, street-legal Suzuki I learned on was a very neat experience in that not only was I learning how things operated, but I remember thinking how ingenious the design process must have been that went into even the simplest controls such as the simple, positive operation of the foot shifter. One down, neutral and five up. This was completely new to me at the time, and I thought it was delightfully straightforward and easy to learn and get comfortable with. As with so many things that become the standard way of operation with nearly universal adoption, the foot shifter had to fight its way through some alternative engineering solutions to emerge on top. Ever seen the weirdness that was the suicide clutch on old Harleys and Indians? This consisted of a foot clutch, and a hand shifter (much like a car’s) next to the tank. It may have been attractive, even funky but ultimately not a good engineering solution. Fortunately as time marched on, this rather dubious way of shifting was replaced by the familiar and much more logical (and safe) system that became the standard. But how long did it take for manufacturers to realize something was amiss with their quaint shiftage? I think it took a while, and that’s a big drawback to using the public as part of your R&D. There are all kinds of new operating systems, switches, etc. that are extensively tested before they are released into the wild, but it’s not until we start using them that some problems surface. A lot of these new touch-based interfaces are amazingly distracting, and unlike when you used to do things by feel you now have to see exactly the spot on the glass screen you’re pressing. The screens look cool, and seem futuristic, and seem to be where the world is headed. But are these new strategies better? They’re going to make their way more and more on to motorcycles, too. What kind of adoption problems will this create for those of us using other types of interfaces for decades? We’ll find out, probably sooner rather then later. But to be honest, I’m far more worried, not about the motorcycle control interfaces, but the new hightech systems in those big metal beasts we share the road with. All kinds of new miraculous technology is finding itself traveling from the designer’s computer into the dashboards of the latest cars, and it’s getting there in record time. Ultimately, these things are going to have a profound effect on how (Continued on Page 8)


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

ScraMble oN Last Sunday, I entered my first offroad motorcycle race. I said “entered” because to say “raced” would be generous in the extreme, like saying some teams in college bowl games “played.” I essentially paid forty bucks to spectate from the field of play, although it was an interesting, entertaining experience. The race was a “Hare Scramble,” a timed event in which competitors ride as many laps as possible in about two hours. The circuit was nearly ten miles long and primarily fresh-cut singletrack, with a motocross track thrown in for good measure. There were a dizzying number of classes: mini, youth, kids 87.375 cc, moped, over-40, grocery cart, etc. The kids ran in the morning and “adults” in the afternoon. To begin, they lined 262 of us up by class in a field. There were 14 classes in the afternoon; I was in the 12th to start. A Hare Scramble begins with a dead engine. When the signal was given, the first wave fired and roared off. In sympathy, the other 13 groups fired their motors too, then shut down. The process was repeated 10 more times until the C rider in front of me left in a mass of smoke, showering me in a torrent of dirt from his rear wheel (called “roost” in the bizness). Fortunately, I was prepared with a “roost protector” comprised of plastic armor over my chest and back, with little shoulder pads. I had on my race goggles with tear-off lenses so I could regain sight if they got “roosted” with mud. I also had on the loudest baby blue and orange pants and jersey in my

Page 7 collection, because I wanted the people passing me to see me and so organizers could find my body later. (NY Mets colors, baby - ed.) I wanted no part of the mayhem that results from people trying to get the “hole shot” (to be first to the corner), so when our turn came, I leisurely fired the Yamaha TTR-230’s motor and ambled off into the dust cloud left by the more competitive 50+’ers. Some guy got my picture coming around the first turn with a pathetically small amount of “roost” coming off my rear tire. I traversed the motocross track and entered the woods to find a giant traffic jam: riders were everywhere, trying to get around some dude who hit a root and stalled. And so it went, going balls-out, then stopping for a glut of riders at a choke point, until things finally started to string out. I even passed a few. The 200+ riders who preceded my class left ruts, some axle-deep, so most of the time I just rode in them. I did OK until the course went through a mud bog. People stopped and, sensing that this might be a place to pass, I chose a likely-looking rut that traversed the obstacle. Wrong! Within 15 seconds, I was buried to the seat in gooey, watery mud and waiting for a guy with a quad and winch to pull me out. Fifteen minutes later I got under way again, just in time to get lapped by the pro riders. Getting passed on single-track by riders going substantially faster is “neat.” They’ll give a couple barks of throttle to let you know they’re coming, you move over a couple millimeters, and they go blasting by like smoky rockets. One of the pro women roosted me so hard with wet mud that it got past the chinbar of my helmet and into my mouth. Sometimes passing requires blazing a trail through the woods: it’s why we run handguards on our bars. Hitting a sapling with your hand at speed makes getting cracked on the knuckles by a nun seem fun by comparison. Other than the bog, I ran a lap without incident: there was nothing too technically challenging for my abilities. I took great pains to stay out of the way of the faster, was largely successful, and they were courteous and grateful. (Continued on Page 8)


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Free wheelIN’

(Continued from Page 4)

each consecutive year and witnessed the exodus of high quality vendors and businesses from what was once the highlight of the winter months. When the show was held in late January or early February the promise of the upcoming season was apparent and the mood, feel and the vibe of the show said as much. Spring was on its way and we were all pumped and excited about the possibilities. In December most folks are in the middle of family and business events and responsibilities. Preparing for the holidays, during this very busy month, is going to win out over a day traipsing around the Javits Center looking at motorcycles more often than not. We understand that the December contract with the Javits Center has a few more years to run. Time for a new deal or fresh rethinking of the New York Motorcycle Show. poStcardS FroM the hedge

(Continued from Page 6)

people drive. Many manufacturers can point to the technology’s potential for saving lives, and they’re right. But at the same time (and I deal with the latest new auto braking/adaptive cruise control/collision mitigation features on nearly a daily basis), people are going to be less vigilant when they believe the car will keep itself from rear-ending people thanks to sensor-based auto braking systems. Drivers will quit checking their blind spots as the car will tell them when there’s a vehicle beside the car, right? Shoot, if you wander outside of your lane some cars will steer you back towards the center like the

Ghost of Driving Instructors Past has suddenly taken over your ride. I don’t get along very well with this feature, as there’s all kinds of very good reasons you might want to steer out of your lane, like when a car is stopped on the side of the road and taking up part of your lane (no doubt made inert by some catastrophic electronics failure). Under such circumstances you are literally working with steering that is trying to do the opposite of what you want. If you haven’t experienced this yourself, I assure you I’m not exaggerating. I’m waiting for the first big lawsuit to appear, as I don’t see how this and several other new miracles won’t cause a bad accident, even if the software works perfectly. It’s going to confuse people, and they will do something in response that will have a bad result. Motorcycles will not adopt this sort of tech lightly, but it doesn’t mean OEMs won’t try it. First, I think we’ll see some of our tried and true switches and buttons get replaced with something more “modern,” and that in itself will cause some problems. BMW just announced (at the Consumer Electronics Show, no less) a helmet with a heads-up display (HUD), something I saw coming and wrote about a long time ago. I can’t remember whether I said it would be a good thing or bad thing, but I do know the HUDs on cars I’ve tested were absolute ElectraPoop. What is supposed to let you keep your eyes on the road instead of glancing at the instrument cluster doesn’t really work, because when you focus on the HUD to read it your focus changes and you still can’t see the road any better than if you looked at the old speedo. Maybe this new tech will work amazingly well, but until that is established I’m going with “if it ain’t broke. . .” as my mantra while on two wheels.

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oN the Mark

(Continued from Page 7)

At the start of the next lap, I got cross-rutted with the front wheel in one deep chasm and the rear in another, and hit the ground hard in a nasty high-side. After picking up my body and bike, I checked the time and realized that I likely would be finishing that lap in the dark, so I called it a day, 19th out of 20 in the 50+ class. And they didn’t have to use my orange clothes to find my body. It was fun and I’ll go back next year, in homage to Led Zep, to “Scramble On.”


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

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BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor

Oh Canada Backroads, OMG! You have uncovered our carefully kept secret about the PNW! With all of our involvement in Tacoma with LeMay - America’s Car Museum, Diane and I kept a pair of our bikes at my son’s house in Seattle for our annual explorations in WA, OR and British Columbia. The Cascades and the coastal roads are heaven. Throw in a bunch of ferries and the Columbia River Gorge and you enjoy lush twisties on perfectly manicured secondary roads. Happy Holidays! Burt Richmond Love the BC tour you guys did with Edelweiss … I’ve read it over twice! I’m thinking of going. But you left out a key ingredient that was very surprising, considering our shared values… and that is the FOOD. Apart from the corn dogs, HOW was the food? Horrible, I’m guessing, since you never mentioned it. Victor Cruz Victor, Not in the least. The food was fine. It’s Canada – just like the U.S., but more polite! Shira, I have an ice cream run in mind, which is about 1 hour from my house. I live near Hawley, PA. The ice cream is made at Manning Farm Dairy. It is homemade, but there are no indoor tables or restrooms. There are picnic tables outside and restrooms at a nearby gas station. Let me know if you are interested for a Spring cruise. Jay Weiss Hi Jay, Thanks so much for thinking of us. We hit Manning Farm Dairy several

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years ago – one of the better ice cream stops, I’d say. If memory serves me (and it usually doesn’t) we went during an off-season ice cream time (not that there really is such a thing) and sat outside with a family from Ohio. Nice time. Have a great time and enjoy the ice cream.

That Guy - Again Brian I just finished reading the December Free Wheelin’. The only thing I would add is that ‘The Guy’ is found not only on tours, but he tends to show up at all sorts of group rides, which is why I do fewer and fewer group rides as I get older. The Guy really gets around. But it’s like I told you 15 years ago; Do anything you want, just don’t be an asshole. Dan Herbst


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Hi Brian and Shira, So every rag and mag you pick up these days (past 10 years) has personal story after story experiencing rides, places, museums etc etc. Great! But these past couple of years (like our world condition) things and situations in the two-wheel world have gotten considerably worse in my opinion. I couldn’t agree with you more, mate, on your December Free Wheelin’ story with the IDGAS attitude. I’ve been experiencing more of the same on occasion at my schools. While trying to keep everyone safe, one or two seem to think the rules weren’t made for them. After customary polite warnings like “play by the rules sir”, comes additional help towards loading the bike on the trailer. The sad part is when innocents get hurt or their bikes damaged when it’s not corrected quickly. But we keep working on weeding them out! 2016! See you at VIR I hope. Thanks for the good magazine. Cheers, Reg

Ear Protection… Dear Editor, I received my S earbuds today, from your advertiser at Now Hear This, and had a chance to try them out on a short ride. All I can say is WOW! What a difference compared to using foam Home Depot earplugs with wired helmet speakers. I would say the S plugs are 90-95% effective at blocking out wind noise as compared to the foam plugs, but the sounds of music and voice prompts from my GPS are clear as a bell, and I even had to lower the volume

compared to previously needing to keep it at 100% to barely hear it. I’m pleased and look forward to my first long ride with my new S plugs. They truly are a great product and have successfully tied together my GPS and my bike for maximum enjoyment. Needless to say my helmet speakers have been removed and I don’t ever see them being reinstalled in my helmet. Thanks again! Larry Barasch

Aerostich in NJ Backroads, Thank you for your wonderful coverage of the Aerostich Pop Up event in NJ in your January issue!! Every year that goes by, as the friggen’ motorcycle business continues to change, your Backroads magazine becomes more and more of a treasure. I enjoy every issue, and can see how much work you put into them. Again, thank you for attending the NJ pop up, and for your wonderful coverage. It was great. Andy

GPS for Dummies Dear Brian, I received the December 2015 issue of Backroads and greatly appreciated the exposure! We have had a number of referrals directly from the article. Many thanks. Chris Short • Shortronics Inc. - www.palmdr.com If you have GPS woes give Chris a call! Hi Brian & Shira Thank you both for the best magazine there is. I learn so much from your publication; I really like Mysterious America. You have so many articles other than just about motorcycles. I have been riding for many years but still learn of places I have not visited. Your publication is a great read for anyone who rides. I hope you have more articles on loading maps in the GPS. I know it will help a lot of riders. Wanted Buff Magic but they wanted $15 to ship it to me. Then I checked Amazon and they shipped to me free. It is $28 but you get a lot and it should last me a long time. Thank you both and keep up the good work. Bob Hartpence

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 11

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS SW-MOTECH TRAX ADVENTURE PANNIERS TOUGH, STYLISH & WATERPROOF We have used SW-Motch’s Trax Bags for years on a few different machines and always found them to be durable, stylish – though not exactly waterproof in heavy rains or slippery water crossings. Recently Erik Stephens, the mastermind of Rhode Island’s Adventure wonderland Twisted Throttle, gave us a run through on the newest generation of the TraX Adventure Bags. The first thing we noticed was how beefed up the entire line now is, truly a step up from the previous-generation EVO cases. The new Adventure line has improved strength and durability, weather protection, easy portability and thoughtfully designed storage and camping accessories. Being able to ride through all day downpours and seriously wet conditions without having to look for a dryer that night is key for all adventure and touring riders. The new TraX Adventure Panniers have tackled the recurring problem with last generation’s bags with a luggage that is 100% airtight and waterproof with newly designed gaskets, welding seams, rivets and screws keeping water and dust out. All plastic components are punch-riveted to the case instead of perforating the wall material, eliminating holes where water or dirt could enter and special sealing geometry achieves a watertight connection between the lid and case body. The new panniers are fully robot welded, and this state-of-the-art manufacturing makes these 1.5mm aluminum cases both sturdy and lightweight. Robot welding produces thin, strong seams for water resistance and stability, while 3D-formed areas enhance strength without adding excess weight. A chamfer on the lower

edge optimizes lean angle ground clearance and improves rider safety by eliminating sharp edges. Glass fiber-reinforced plastic protects the outer corners. These cases include removable lids, locking stainless steel latches, internal lid stays, outer tie-down points and a versatile carrier system. For those who are looking to upgrade from previous TraX Bags these new cases will fit any SW-MOTECH QuickLock side carriers, which combine bike-specific fit with quick-release detachment from the bike. These side carriers are offered for almost any adventure or sport-touring motorcycle in production. Adapters are also available to mount the TraX cases to other carrier systems. TraX accessories include inner storage bags, a camp table, lid nets and waterproof expansion bags. These are now available in silver anodized or black powder-coated finishes, the side cases have a storage capacity of 37 or 45 L; the top case holds 38 L. Individual cases start at $480.95 each; complete kits (mounting hardware included) start at $1,986.55. The cases are available now from twistedthrottle.com or better yet, ride up and visit their factory store at 570 Nooseneck hill road, exeter, rI – it is a destination well worth the ride!


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

GREAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN guNk hauS reStauraNt 387 SOUTH ST, HIGHLAND, NY 12528 845-883-0866 • GUNKHAUS.COM OPEN FOR LUNCH @ 11AM AND DINNER ‘TIL 10PM • CLOSED TUESDAYS Our friend, Rob Doyle, lives in a beautiful part of New York State, in the shadow of the Shawangunk Ridge outside of New Paltz. While most riders have been to, or at least heard of, New Paltz with its trendy shops, restaurants and vineyards, there is a place, away from the crowds of orchard-hawkers and antique shoppers, where you can sit, relax and have ‘the best hamburger in New York State.’ That is what our friend Rob told us - and when a guy like Doyle says something like that, you take notice. We finally heeded his words and joined him for lunch at the Gunk Haus. Our ride, on a late autumn afternoon, brought us along some beautifully curvy roads through the heart of apple orchard country. With the changing leaves and incoming clouds, the impending winter weather was tickling the periphery of our thoughts. The pungent aroma of ripening apples permeated the air and heightened our appetites. Coming around the last turn, we saw the homey and welcoming Gunk Haus, with its ample parking lot across the road and beautiful vista from the outside patio. Parking the bikes, we took our obligatory beauty shots for the magazine and headed inside. Before getting to the bar and dining room, you’ll pass by the bakery. Make note, as I’m sure you’ll want to save room for dessert or at least make a stop before you exit for some take-home delights such as an assortment of delicious breads, apfelstrudel, brownies and cookies. Owners Elizabeth Steckel and Dirk Schalle took this circa 1830s building, whose colorful past included service as a boarding house, Italian eatery and Jamaican reggae club, gave it some love and

The Riverton Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river. Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking.

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

tasty places to take your bike

care and made it into a most comfortable setting, somewhere between a German beer hall and Hudson Valley barn. The dark wood and communal tables are quite Bavarian in style and very casual and welcoming. Passing through the bar and dining room, we made our way to the patio, with umbrella-topped tables and a view to die for. Stealing from their website: “We serve thoughtfully prepared comfort food made from carefully sourced ingredients. We are seasonal when we can, local when possible, and as organic as sensible. We make everything from scratch, and we like to pair the food with great beer.” While we knew that we were here for the hamburgers, we couldn’t help but drool at the other fine choices available. As imagined, the menu has some traditional Bavarian choices, as Steckel is German by way of Detroit. You’ll find wursts and schnitzels, sauerbraten and goulash, along with some other not-so Bavarian offerings like chicken salad sandwich (spicy garlic-chicken salad, Muenster cheese and spicy mustard on a pretzel roll) and grilled apple and brie (sautéed apples, brie and honey mustard on Haus-made brioche). There are several choices if you choose the vegetarian path (Portabella Paprikash or Spatzle Primavera) and many more if you don’t, such as a Sauerbraten Sandwich (slowbraised pork goulash on Haus-made cia-

Worth the ride from anywhere!

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

batta with horseradish sour cream and cheddar cheese), Mixed Grill (one each bratwurst, kielbasa and weisswurst with German potato salad and sauerkraut), Pfannenkuchen (a German-styled thin pancake with your choice Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese, Mushroom ragu or Haus-cured gravlax and Dill-Havarti cheese) or the 8 oz Haus Burger, which is what we came for – local all-natural beef on a pretzel bun with addon choices of an assortment of cheeses, sauerkraut, mushroom ragu and/or roasted garlic spread. I opted for mine done medium rare with Gouda, mushroom ragu and roasted garlic spread with a side of fresh cole slaw, while Brian had his with Pepperjack and roasted garlic spread and a side of German potato salad with bacon. The burgers were cooked to perfection, coming out plump and juicy, and the pretzel roll added just the right amount of salt to the seasoning. There is a very fine assortment of beers and ales, but as we were riding we abstained but made note for a future visit sans motorcycles. Instead, we chose from the wide variety of teas and soft drinks available.

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Dining al fresco with the Gunks in the background and the aroma of ripe apples in the air was certainly the perfect prescription for such a lovely day in late autumn. Combine that with one of the best burgers around, good company and the twistalicious roads awaiting our after-lunch ride and you have a marvelous destination from just about anywhere, as the Gunk Haus is about the same distance from Manhattan, Danbury CT, Great Barrington MA or the heart of the Catskills. There’s plenty of room for a riding group, whether they are on bikes from the Bavarian homeland or any other marque. These Rip & Rides are available for GPS only. You can download here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/4i0rgw Two routes included – each one-way From George Washington Bridge • 100 miles From Great Barrington MA • 75 miles


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY waShINgtoN’S croSSINg park 1112 RIVER RD, ROUTES 32 & 532 WASHINGTON CROSSING, PA 18977 215- 493-4076 • WWW.WASHINGTONCROSSINGPARK.ORG Last year Backroads brought you a threepart series on Washington’s Culper Spy Ring and various places of historic interest around the Backroads region. This year we have decided to go in search of the man himself - General George Washington, one of our founding fathers and our first president. General Washington was an incredible leader and man of honor. Over the next three months we will travel to some of the more historically important places where Washington made history and show you that – without Washington – there would be no United States of America. It was late December in the year of 1776. The Continental Army had suffered one defeat after another and with the loss of New York and Long Island, Washington and his swiftly depleting army made their way across New Jersey and into Pennsylvania. Earlier that month word had come from the Culper Ring - Washington’s spies – that the British had left Hessian mercenaries guarding the town of Trenton. Washington knew he needed a big victory as his Army was bleeding men from desertion and the end of enlistment – not to mention that morale was in the basement at this point with a cold winter coming on. Between September and December, 11,000 American volunteers gave up the fight and returned to their families. General Washington could foresee the future of the rebellion if the rest of his men returned home when their service contracts expired on December 31. He knew that without an upswing in morale and a significant victory, the American Revolution would come to a swift and humiliating end. A plan was created to attack the Hessians and a quiet call was put forth to start gathering boats up and down the Pennsylvania side of the river. Just north, in the town of Reiglesville, a man named Robert Durham had been designing and building boats specifically constructed to haul pig iron and lumber along the river, that occasionally would run shallow. The Durham boats would suit General Washington well. In the first hours of December 25 – Christmas Day – Washington began to ferry 2,400 troops, along with artillery and supplies, across the Delaware. When all were ready to begin the crossing Washington gathered his troops and read Thomas Paine’s American Crisis. ‘These are the times that try men’s souls; the summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of his country; but he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph.’

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind The plan was to surprise the enemy before dawn, with Washington himself leading the battle for the first time in the war. At an hour before midnight they began to cross the river, but weather, ice flows and sheer numbers held them back and the crossing took hours longer than anticipated. The march towards Trenton was further stymied by near blizzard conditions and numbing cold. Many of the soldiers were sorely prepared for this trek in deep snow and it was only with encouragement from officers and fellow soldiers alike that some were able to continue. To fail and fall surely meant the end. Just after dawn Washington and his troops surprised the Hessians who tried to rally through the alcoholic haze of the previous night’s festivities. Although small in numbers the Battle of Trenton was a fiercely and closely fought mêlée. Colonel Johann Gottlieb Rall, commander of the Hessians, was mortally wounded in the hard

Emanuel Leutze’s painting and limestone statue representation with detail Washington Crossing inn for lunch Taylorsville Village building and cannon Opposite: Visitor’s Center, Blacksmith’s shop outside and in

210 Route 10 West, East Hanover, NJ

973-428-1735 www.HanoverPowersports.com follow us on


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 15

fought fracas. With their commander down the Hessians put down their weapons and surrendered. The battle lasted just two hours. 22 Hessians were dead and nearly 900 captured. After Trenton the Continental army returned to the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware with fresh supplies, weapons, ammunition and zeal. They had won a small but important battle. If you spend time riding down along the Delaware River just south of New Hope, but north of the Philadelphia sprawl you will find one of the great historical sites in the nation. A true iconic park named for its infamous event - Washington’s Crossing. Today things are bit more peaceful and well worth this ride along the river. There are two parts to Washington Crossing Park. The Lower Park includes the Visitor’s Center and the Village of Taylorsville – it is here that the annual “Gathering of Nortons” is held each spring – a great motorcycle event. The Upper Park includes the Thompson-Neely House and Farmstead, the Soldiers’ Graves, and Bowman’s Hill Tower. The Visitor’s Center at Washington Crossing Historic Park was completely renovated in 2012. Inside you can view historic exhibits, attend an educational program, purchase tour tickets, or browse through the museum shop – there is always a shop. There is a great walkway of flags to be seen as well, right outside. At the south end you will find the village of Taylorsville with its historic houses and homes. A barn holds a replica of a famed Durham boat. Across the road you will find the Washington Crossing Inn, a preserved building from 1817. Although a bit formal, here you will can find lunch as well as a most impressive 27.9-ton statue of Indiana limestone, a reproduction of Emanuel Leutze’s famous 1851 painting of “Washington Crossing the Delaware” – a gift to the United States from the people of Bedford, Indiana, a Bicentennial gift from America’s heartland to the small town of Washington Crossing. The backroads along the Delaware River are full of history and this small part, probably more important than anywhere else. If the events of Christmas, 1776 did not go as they did, if Washington’s gamble had failed, if the Hessians had won this fight then all would be lost The United States would never have been born and, we dare say, neither would any of us.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERIO U S A MER IC A IMpact rIdINg look up IN the SkY. It’S a bIrd, It’S a plaNe, It’S a…oh oh! Last January a giant rock whizzed by my head. In fact it whizzed past all our heads. This mountain-size space rock -Asteroid 2004 BL86 - was discovered on Jan. 30, 2004, by the Lincoln Near-Earth Asteroid Research (LINEAR) survey in White Sands, New Mexico. It shot by us on January 26, 2015 at a distance of about 745,000 miles or 3.1 times the distance from Earth to the moon. That might not sound close, but in the grand scheme of the cosmos it was a near miss as our planet was just hours ahead of this and it passed through our wake. It’s not like this hasn’t happened before. With technological eyes everywhere these days exploding meteors and strikes seem to happen more frequently, but the Earth has always been under bombardment. Look at the explosion over Russia last year and in Tunguska in 1908. In both cases the asteroid/meteor/big space rock fragmented and exploded high above the Earth in our atmosphere. But, sometimes we simply get hit by larger than normal rocks, and these can make it all the way to the ground with even more dire results - just ask the dinosaurs. There are currently only 184 known and confirmed meteorite impact craters on the planet Earth - let’s visit a few in North America.

THAT’S

down a bit and we have to search them out. There have been scientifically proven impacts all over the United States that cannot really be seen – such as the Chesapeake Bay. You can’t see it, but shocked mineral and iridium deposits say it was so. I’ll stick with the ones we can almost see.

WETUMPKA IMPACT CRATER • WETUMPKA,ALABAMA

While studying aerial, satellite and geophysical topography researchers were struck by the odd ridge cliff that ran along the Coosa River, just outside Wetumpka. Core drilling down to some 700 feet below today’s surface revealed tell tale minerals like the shocked quartz, which is found only inside impact craters and the holes made by nuclear weapons tests. There was also a high concentration of iridium in the samples and iridium is not found naturally on the planet Earth, but almost always at impact strikes.

GONNA LEAVE A MARK

When big rocks make it through the atmosphere to strike the planet they are always going leave an impact mark or crater. Some are well known, while others lie in wait for the intrepid motorcyclist travelling around North America (for the sole purpose of discovering impact zones) to find.

METEOR CRATER,ARIZONA

Probably the most famous and easiest impact crater to be found is Meteor Crater, also called the Barringer Crater. If I were standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona I would have had an excellent view of this strike that hit

only 27 miles outside of the famed town. Hey, take it easy, it happened nearly 50,000 years ago. Meteor Crater is nearly one mile across, 2.4 miles in circumference and more than 550 feet deep and is fairly pristine as far as looks go. Today you can ride right up to the ridge and the visitor center is air-conditioned, offering indoor viewing, a movie theater and, of course, a gift shop. The first time I spotted this crater was from an American Airlines jet high above; probably one of the best ways to get a real perspective on the crater’s size. Enjoy this one – most of the other impact strikes are a little bit older and harder to find. We call them Astroblemes – the remains of a crater after millions of years of weathering and erosion. The moon has no weather so the craters we see are well defined and obvious. On Earth things tend to wear

This was most likely a water impact as this part of north Alabama was under the ocean when this strike happened an estimated 80 million years ago. We are talking a hot and hard hit – The projectile of the meteor impact was probably travelling between 10 to 20 miles per second. So this means the impact would have produced winds in excess of 500 miles per hour. And the energy released by the Wetumpka impact event is estimated to have been the equivalent of about 2.3 billion tons of TNT. Debris may have been thrown as far away as the present Gulf of Mexico. One distinctively unique feature is its horseshoe-shaped ridge of rock, which is not submerged in water or covered or eroded beyond visibility. In spite of the millions of years of weathering, the crater walls are still prominent with the rim approximately three to four miles wide.

MANICOUAGAN CRATER,CANADA

This crater in Quebec, Canada, is known to be one of the oldest and largest impact craters on the planet. Experts believe it was created some 214 million years ago during the Triassic Period. Glaciers have since played a large part in its erosion. Yes, it is old, yes it is hard to actually see, but the really cool part is that this and the other astroblemes around the world are in alignment and could be the result of a multiple impact event. Like an Earth bound ShoemakerLevy 9 event a chain of asteroids could have slammed into the Earth one after another. This event could have been nothing less than titanic worldwide. Another huge plus with Manicougan is the ride up to this crater on the


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 17

ODESSA METEOR CRATER,TEXAS

southern end of the Trans-Labrador Highway – an adventurer’s dream ride. The crater is a multiple-ring structure about 60 miles across, with its 40 miles diameter inner ring its most prominent feature; it contains a 40 mile diameter lake with an inner island plateau, Rene-Levasseur Island. This lake has been artificially enlarged with the completion of Manic-5 a multiple arch buttress dam. This dam is composed of 14 buttresses and 13 arches and is 214 km north of Baie-Comeau in Quebec. Manic-5 is 702 feet tall, 4,311 feet long and contains 2,900,000 cubic yards of concrete, making it the largest dam of its type in the world. And, I thought the impact zone itself was remarkable, as can be seen in the photo from the International Space Station.

Odessa is a group of 5 meteorite impact craters, the largest of which is 165 meters in diameter. The other 4 are substantially smaller. The Odessa craters are located about 10 miles southwest of the town of Odessa, Texas. You will find this one right off of I-20 and its touted as the second largest crater in the USA. Unfortunately the 50,000 years since the strike have filled it with Texas, dust, silt and sand – so the actual rim is barely discernable. There is a museum there that sells all sorts of craterrelated items and souvenirs including pieces of the actual meteorite. The nearby Texas Historical Sign claims that the bulk of the meteorite is still buried some 170 feet down, buried in the silt.

SERPENT MOUND CRATER,OHIO

The Serpent Mound, a giant snake-like effigy mound located on a plateau in Brush Creek Valley, was one of my first Mysterious Americas. Little did I know that there was a bigger picture going on there. It seems that the surrounding terrain and geology is full of shatter cones (Continued on Page 19)


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HER E aSSateague INN 6570 COACHS LANE, CHINCOTEAGUE ISLAND, VA 23336 757-336-3738 • WWW.ASSATEAGUE-INN.COM Although we try to pick out new places to go and new sights to see each month we sometimes find ourselves drawn back to familiar places, if only to experience the region in a different way or at a different place. Such it is with the Virginia island of Chincoteague. We were first drawn here a decade and a half or so ago after seeing a sweatshirt touting the town’s yearly Oyster Festival. We have been back almost every year since, either while passing through or more likely to attend that same Oyster Fest. This year we found and stayed at a place that harkens back to how most of Chincoteague used to be - laid back, natural and very earthy in a crabby, creeky sort of way. When we first arrived those years back I remember riding over the old bridge onto the island and searching out one of the small hotels, hoping for a room during the festival weekend. These days it is almost hard not to find a room with large hotels being built along the bayside of the island and a new bridge making it easier for off-island folk to make their way to Chincoteague.

For the last number of years we had been held back by things that prevented our return, but come this summer we bought our tickets and began to make some easy plans for the 2015 Oyster Festival. Off Maddox Boulevard, along the creek leading to Little Oyster Bay, we would always see a wooden walkway and a small dock laying across the reeds and grass. To the right was an inn and this year we decided that this would be our home base for the weekend – The Assateague Inn. Now, just to refresh your memory Assateague Island is just to the east and it is here you will find the wild ponies of literary fame, the most famous being Misty. Yes, there is a statue for this legendary little horse. I called to book a room and was a bit surprised to find very reasonable rates, around $100 with tax per night for a room with a view of the creek, the lighthouse’s beam at night and the morning’s sunrise as well. This wasn’t just a small bedroom, but a two-couch living room, kitchen

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads and separate bedroom, which works well for keeping roommates and/or kids separate. Flat screen TVs (needed only for Mets MLB Playoff games) were to be found as well. Outside you’ll find a long porch on both flights of the two story structure that runs the length of the building’s east side. Filled with rocking chairs perfect for a late night cocktail while watching the fading sun play off the grass, water and island and stupendous come morning’s sunrise and coffee. When we arrived we strolled out to the deck I had been looking at for so long and watched a couple crabbing off the wooden pier for that night’s dinner. Although this region is known for its oysters, just about any tidal creek will have about a thousand or so

crabs lurking on the bottom. To coax them into sacrificing themselves to your plate you only need a few simple things - a string, a net, a small rock and a chicken leg. Tie the rock to the string and the leg a few inches above that and toss into the shallow creek. Wait about 3 minutes and SLOWLY begin to bring the string back. Put your net underneath it when it is coming up and, most times, there will be a hungry crab digging onto the chicken. Do that a half dozen times and you have dinner. The next day’s Chincoteague Oyster Festival was as perfect as it gets. Storms that barreled through the night before gave way to brighter and brighter skies and at noon the fire siren sounded and the lines gathered for


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 19 MYSterIouS aMerIca

(Continued from Page 17)

and iridium found deep below the surface. The Serpent Mound is built in the middle of a strike crater! When early European-American explorers arrived they noted the unusual terrain in the 19th century pristine and undeveloped land, and it is often speculated that the odd geological features inspired Native Americans to build the mound at that location. Or, was there even more to this ancient First peoples site?

UPHEAVAL DOME,CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK,UTAH

oysters just about any way you could like them. Frittered, steamed and raw. Other food was available too for those who have issues with the oyster – but was it not Jonathon Swift who said, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” The band Island Boy rocked the festival, as they do each year since we have been coming, and after the party was done it was time for a contest of skill on the miniature golf course and go-cart track. When in Rome. So here is the bottom line. www.chincoteagueoysterfestival.com Chincoteague Oyster Festival is the Saturday of Columbus Day Weekend – rain or shine. The Assateague Inn – hard to beat. Be there or be square.

This is another impact zone located in a famous place – this time Canyonlands National Park outside Moab, Utah. The crater is located in the Island in the Sky section of the park. This strike occurred some 170 million years ago, yet the crater is clearly visible on the surface as bright brown and black concentric rings. Inside and around the crater shocked quartz has been found and as we know only two things make this mineral -a nuclear blast or a meteor strike. I bet on the latter this time around. As with the trip to Manic-5 in Canada, at Canyonlands you will get a crater and the opportunity to see what this magnificent part of Utah has to offer. So there you have a half dozen impact sites around North America. When you ride right up to them it tends to make you feel a bit small and a bit humble. That’s okay – you should feel that way. ~ O’Life out!


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

JJ ScoopS 1 MAIN ST, CLINTON, NJ 908-730-0988 • HTTP://JJSCOOPS.WEEBLY.COM OPEN MON-THURS: 11:30A-9P • SAT-SUN: 11:30A-9:30P You find the nicest thing just wandering around looking for nothing. Last spring we were out for an adventure with our friends David and Flip. We had traveled to one of our favorite day’s getaways – the Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton NJ – and were heading back north, just turning here and there to do a little exploring. While making our way in and around the village of Clinton, I felt a sudden urge, a calling for something sweet and creamy. And, in answer to my yearning, right around the next corner was the cutest little ice cream shop you could find. With its pink and white facade and hand painted windows, it just beckoned us to park for a spell and enjoy the warm setting sun and cool offerings.

And so we did. Entering the shop, you are hit with the sweetness it holds. The hand painted and creative décor mimics the windows, and gives you all the information you’ll need to make an educated choice in ice cream and its iterations. From your basic cone to a Red Mill Sundae (Red Velvet ice cream, hot fudge, cookie crumble, Oreo, whipped cream, sprinkles and a cherry) and most things in between, you will be hard pressed to walk out of JJ Scoops disappointed. JJ Scoops has been serving the community for some 20 years. They make their own ice cream and sorbet and have some creative flavors such as orange mango ginger, as well as your vanilla and chocolate. For those who prefer to have their ice cream sitting in a cone, you’ll have a variety from which to choose like chocolate chip and pretzel, or chocolate dipped pretzel. If you had a big lunch or are just in for a little


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 21 taste, they offer a baby scoop for just a buck, just enough sugar to get you home. Feeling like something smooth and creamy? How about a shake or egg cream; they’ve got you covered. If you have a hankering for something more European, they can satisfy you with some gelati. Perhaps you are a bit lactose-intolerant – you can soothe your tummy with a little Italian ices. According to their board: ‘Something different you had in mind? We can customize any of our sundaes, smoothies or shakes…If we have it, we can make it.’ Once we made our selections, we headed out to their little seating area. They have a couple of tables right outside as well as some out back in their little garden, which are shaded. There’s no seating inside, and the parking in Clinton can get a bit tight, especially on a nice summer weekend. There are a number of nice restaurants in the vicinity, so if you happen to be riding through around lunchtime, grab a bit, leave the bike parked and make your way to JJ Scoops. If you’d had a particularly filling meal, but need something to satisfy that sweet tooth, a frozen candy bar might be in order. You can even make your own ice cream sandwich – just choose your cookie and ice cream flavor and they’ll hand you a cold sandwich to down with, maybe an iced coffee. There are some great roads in this part of Jersey, so we’ll get right to it and set you in the direction of another wonderful stop in Shira’s Ice Cream Run. Enjoy and don’t forget the whipped cream. Rip & Ride on page 42.

If you can’t get enough of Shira’s Ice Cream Run head over to Backroads’ CafePress store and get your very own t-shirt. Lots of other cool Backroads stuff too cafepress.com/bkrdsmagazine


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

MotoCaribe An Adventure Tour of the South West Dominican Republic

words and images: Brian Rathjen From the mountainside restaurant, atop Jamaca de Dios or the Hammock of God, the high Jarabacoa valley spread out for miles in a swath of verdant fields and palms, crisscrossed by well-worn gravel and beat up paved roads. The cooling Dominican mountain breezes stood in contrast with the sultriness of the coast, and all was good with the world. From our vantage the view was earthy and ageless, and I fully understood the local saying “God lives in the Dominican Republic, but sleeps in Jarabacoa.” We were enjoying this grand view with friends Nuri, Michael and Gary, and Robert and Alida, the owners of MotoCaribe. It was our first day in the Dominican Republic and MotoCaribe thought this would be an excellent place to start a week long journey through the southwest region of the Dominican Republic, which shares this massive island, the second largest in the Caribbean (only Cuba is larger), with Haiti to the west. Since 2008 MotoCaribe has been leading motorcycle excursions through this tropical getaway and, where most think only of the beaches and locked away resorts here on this island nation, Robert and Alida were here to show us the real Dominican Republic – the mountains, deserts, valleys and the people that lie in between. Baseball is huge here and we like that too. Our start in the center of the island, along

the foothills of the Cordillera Central, immediately let us know that this was not going to be the DR that most know from those cookie-cutter seaside resorts jammed into the coastal towns of Puerta Plata or Punta Cana. Not at all, for here there is a real land, culture and history and we were looking forward to uncovering it. MotoCaribe has developed a good-size following over the years, with most of the recommendations coming from word of mouth, satisfied customers and the internet. In fact 50% of their business is made up of returning riders. That speaks volumes for a hands-on operation in a destination not normally on everyone’s bucket list. We had been introduced to Robert and Alida by riding friends Kim and Laurie, who had journeyed with them earlier this year. The tour came highly recommended and word of mouth works well at times.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

With the DR just a few short hours flight from New Jersey, we thought the middle of November would be an excellent time to escape the coming winter, for one last romp before the seasons took a serious turn. As we usually do, we came in a few days early taking our rooms at the Gran Jimenoa Hotel, with the Jimenoa River running through the property, complete with its picturesque waterfalls and soothing roar. It was a perfect spot to relax, read a book, soak in the river and acclimate to the DR lifestyle. The on-site restaurant satisfied our hunger, with a full buffet breakfast and typical Dominican selections for dinner. We did the tourist thing for a day or so, wandering into the small village of Jarabacoa which allowed the rest of our group, with couples from Europe and the US, to join us. By Monday we had all settled in and went to pick up our rides for the week.

The Jarabacoa Valley We shuttled over to Camp Moto, at MotoCaribe’s headquarters, and picked up our machines - all identical first generation Suzuki V-Strom 650s - clean, with fresh tires and ready to go. Excellent on the road and gravel, this Swiss-Army

Page 23

knife of an adventure bike was practically designed with this sort of riding in mind. The plan was to head towards the Caribbean Sea along the southwestern region of DR. But, since we were already in a seriously beautiful part of the island MotoCaribe kept us more or less local this first day out and we did a cloverleaf day-ride in and around the Jarabacoa Valley and along the peaks that close it in. A quick ride over to the Jimenoa Waterfalls was in order and the hike to the falls was brisk and adventurous along the steel cabled and swaying wooden bridges. Cue the Indiana Jones music. We found lunch of salad, rice, beans and freshly barbecued pork at a small family run restaurant atop one of the hills. While waiting for our lunch, we took advantage of their beautiful pool and wonderful view, relaxing in the warm sun and getting to know our fellow riders. The rest of the day found us crisscrossing the region along roads that alternated between decent pavement and decent gravel – with just enough potholed sections to keep you on your toes - literally.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS for gold too, but that was not in our plans this day. On the way back we stopped by a local coffee factory – Monte Alto – where we caught up on how our much needed coffee is grown, cultivated and eventually makes it into our cups. The samples were invigorating. We were back at the Gran Jimenoa Hotel right at dusk and made it an early night, as the next day would be a long one across the island.

Salinas

Coffee and dessert was taken at a surprisingly posh resort called Alta Vista that had a helicopter parked outside. I wasn’t expecting that here – but like many tinier nations like this there are the rich and the poor and very little middle class. We then made a run towards the Manaboa region, deep in the peaks of the Cordillera Central and not far from Pico Duarte, at 10,164 feet, the highest point not only in in the Dominican Republic but the entire Caribbean. Interestingly enough in the next few days we would head to Lake Enriquillo, just 60 or so miles away as the crow flies, which is the Caribbean’s lowest point. So odd that the two extremes of these islands would be neighbors, but the same thing can be found in California - with Death Valley and Mount Whitney within eye shot of each other. It’s funny how the planet plays tricks like this. Here in these hills you will also find La Confluencia, a place where two of the largest rivers meet: Yaque del Norte (the longest river of the country) and Jimenoa. I have heard the many streams that run along this land are great for panning

The previous evening, the region was pounded by heavy rains and, come sunrise, found the Jimenoa River, that had been a pleasantly rough soak the day before, running heavy with silt and debris. What was recreation yesterday would be a recovery today. The heavy clouds thinned as we had breakfast and, rolling out of Jarabacoa and into the mountains, the skies cleared and sun bathed the leafy valley. Our route brought us over the range along some wellpaved and twisty mountain roads that cut through smaller Dominican villages and tiny towns. I know it is politically prudent to say that parts of this nation are “developing”, but some of these towns were gritty, even on the third world scale. Riding through them was semi-controlled chaos with

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

small motos, bikes and trucks vying for control of the roadways. Small two-wheel vehicles are everywhere. There are 2.4 million vehicles in the DR and 1.8 of them are some sort of motorcycle. Here size matters and we were aggressive when needed and backed off when called for. Whenever we are in nations like the DR, we are treated like rock stars by the children - especially in the more remote mountain villages. Looking prim and proper in their school uniforms of tan and blue, they cheered and posed for pictures as we rode by. This is a universal happening and if the kids love bikes then we must be doing something right. We had a stop planned at Anthropological Reserve of Cuevas del Pomier. The Pomier Caves are a system of large caverns, found alongside one of the country’s largest limestone quarries that hold over 6,000 pictographs and paintings that are very old – some dating back 3,000 years. The cavern system goes down some 1,000 feet below sea level and we spent about an hour spelunking in an old-school way - with flashlight in hand - as there was no electricity or lights down there. The drawings were made with a combination of charcoal and animal fat and look exactly as they did when they were drawn a millennium ago. It seems that thousands of years ago humans still took great pride in drawing stick-figure erotica and that nothing has changed since then.

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It was more than a bit interesting when we turned off all the flashlights and let ourselves be enveloped by the utter blackness and silence of the cave. I wondered if this was what it was like to be dead? Back on the surface our route then brought us from the Central Mountains and leveled out for a quick run down the main road, or Auto Pista. We took lunch at an odd Chinese Automat, but the locals were there and that is always a good sign. Another sign that we were not in Kansas anymore is the ubiquitous armed guard. At most restaurants and some of the hotels there will be a man with a gun – usually a sawed-off pistol grip 12gauge. We had no issues with good men having guns around us. If you travel here you best get used to the guns, guards and military checkpoints. Our destination that night was the Caribbean coastal town of Salinas, in the Barahona province. This is home to the Dominican Navy - the Armada as well as dozens of herds of wild goats that run across the road at any provocation and with not a thought. Like North American deer or Aussie kangaroo they are to be kept watch for while riding this part of the island.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Intertwined mangrove trees lined the bay, as do the many salt farms that the region is known for. Thick crusty white salt lay in huge piles alongside the road, dwarfing the bike when I stopped for an image. I found my way to our hotel, which we were told was eclectic, but we found funky was a better term. Upon parking the bikes around back, we were greeted with a glass of blue liquid and amusing music. In addition, there was a welcoming pool, along the Caribbean bay, with a small pier, some nice boats and day beds with gauzy white canopy tops wisping in the wind. It was about as picture perfect as it gets. With the V-Stroms parked along the water, the day beds made a nice place to watch the horizon as another tempest, complete with a lightning storm, filled the horizon.

Barahona I awoke to the sounds of a menagerie of birds letting all know the new day had begun filtering through the window. A quick breakfast was followed by a short run to the Calderas Dunes along the sea. Towering hills of sand and fauna stretched for a mile in each direction and we could see the wild goats foraging for their first meal of the day and the tracks left by iguanas already seeking shelter from the sun.

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 27 Tasty, healthy and filing. The cooling pool helped moral as well. For the rest of the day we rode along the southern part of the republic, mostly within sight of the sea making a hydration stop at a confluence of two of the major roads. Here each car, truck and moto heading east had their occupants checked for papers as the DR and nearby Haiti are a bit at odds. Although considered a bargain getaway by snowbirds at the all-inclusive, locked-down coastal resorts, the soldiers with automatic weapons and stern faces tell another story here in this tropical paradise. For kicks Robert brought us (okay, I was dragged) to Pico Magnetica, which is basically your standard optical illusion, yet another ‘gravity road’ where your bike will roll up a hill. Every place has one, so why shouldn’t the Dominican Republic? We doubled back to Barahona and what would be our hotel for the next three nights. We’d be doing day trips to explore the coast and the terrain around the salty land-locked Lake Enriquillo for the next few days. Maybe a little side trip into Haiti. The hotel was wonderfully placed along the sea and you had your choice of the pool or ocean for a dip – but watch for critters as stinging hydroids and jellyfish like this part of the world too.

Lago Enriquillo and a touch of Haiti

Our ride this day would bring us further from the mountains and forests that we had gotten used to over the past few days and along a more arid stretch of Isla Espanola. As rough as all the tiny towns were, you could still find a little oasis here and there, and MotoCaribe brought us to another nice lunch along one of the newer roads that the nation has been building. Extremely well paved, well curved and well vista’d - it was one of the best roads of the trip and the payoff lunch ranked high as well with chicken, smoked pork, rice, beans, starches and avocado served Dominican-style.

I met the sun this day along the beach (an early rise, not the end of the night – thank you) and watched as the sky lightened and then lit up the colorful boats that were beached along the shore. This day we’d loop Lago Enriquillo, the salt lake that dominates this region. It is the lowest point in all of the Caribbean Islands, 148 feet below sea level, and the road along the southern side was dry, arid and patched with small trees trying to scratch out a living in the harsh climate. Think Caribbean’s Death Valley – if just a tad more hospitable. The lake is named after Taino Cacique (leader) named Enriquillo who rebelled against the Spanish in the 1600s and is a historic folk hero in the region. I stopped at the huge statue raised in his honor. Along the way we pulled into a small green oasis with its spring gurgling down into pools that were there for the bathing. The water had a distinct, and unpleasant, sulphery tang and we passed on this dip; still a small family of goats made use of the waters.

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At the western edge of Lake Enriquillo lies the border with Haiti. Although two separate nations now, they were once one unified country under the Haitian flag. But, all that ended in 1844 when the Trinitarios, led by Juan Pablo Duarte declared independence. The years after were confusing and troublesome and today you can see some of this angst at the border crossing into Haiti. We had stopped about a mile or so outside the Fronteira and left all our gear with a paid guard at a small restaurant. Shira and Nuri opted out of the Haitian excursion (Shira has had her fill of 3rd world crossings), so I knew our stuff would be there when we returned.

Along the last few miles leading to the border things began to get a bit hectic and then went to the far side of crazy. The road narrowed from a small highway to a smaller two lane unpaved road. Trucks, motos, people, wheel barrows, shopping carts, goats, dogs, police, more police, old men, old women, untethered children, 16 GOP hopefuls and pretty much everything else on the island converged here to create utter frackin’ mayhem which passed for the norm here. Holy shit, Batman! We motored up along the trucks and cars, mirrors scraping along the buses in some of the tighter spots, and we did our best to keep moving along at a snail’s crawl. Bobbing and weaving we moved closer to the frontier. This sort of riding, even on a mid-size adventure bike, can be tough. At the border itself, in a small but crowded lot, we parked the bikes locking the forks of the stripped-down machines and trying to ignore the throng of

FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

young and boisterous black men gesturing to us and speaking in a mix of French and Spanish. Friend or foe, good or bad – it was hard to tell here, and best to be wary regardless. Large motorcycles are not something that seen here everyday and between the bikes and the “middle-age gringo look” we more than stuck out. We talked the border security into letting us pass and we spent ten minutes or so on the Haitian side, which was exactly the same as the DR side with crowded, loud and messy stands hawking all sort of wares. I have been across many borders, but nothing as frenetic as the one into Haiti. When we were set to leave a large bus pulled up and then swung sideways across the roadway, effectively closing border’s gate and halting our progress back into the DR. Men with automatic rifles appeared and pushed us back as the doors opened and a dozen Haitian men were brought forth from the bus and pushed back into Haiti at gunpoint. This is how the Dominican Republic deals with illegal immigrants. There is little love lost between these two nations.

Enough seen and experienced, and with something that I didn’t even know was on my bucket list now checked off, we stopped to pick up our stuff and doubled back around the northern side of Lago Enriquillo. This side had a fairly new roadway and offered some fun elevation changes and views of the salty lake. This lake is the world’s largest American crocodiles reserve. Nearly 400 crocodiles lay their eggs there and spend their days around that part of the lake where a cold river meets the salty lake. No swimming this lunchtime! MotoCaribe had brought along lunch in the form of a barbeque and we found a shady spot in a small park and had lunch al fresco, with about two dozen little boys keeping a sharp eye on us and the bikes, especially the bikes. Next to the spot where we set up our picnic was a father and his tiny daughter watching us from a porch. The little girl stared at us and then slowly walked over to see who and


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016 what we were. Gary smiled at her and said hi attempting to make a new amiga. She had a tentative frown and snuggled in a bit closer. When he offered her a bit of Gatorade in a small tin cup, she took it sheepishly and with a tiny smile that said thanks. It was a small act of kindness on Gary’s part, but spoke in a big way for him as a human. This day Gary had made a tiny, two-foot tall friend. Shira followed up later with a bag of cookies from our stash of snacks and munchies, but we know Shira is Shira, and she’d feed a rabid dragon. This is the way in third world countries. In the Estados Unidos we would have been yelled at, or worse, for befriending a toddler. Here the father smiled and said thanks. Later another little boy, who was desperate to be Shira’s new friend would smile sadly when she went to leave and told her “vaya con Dios, muchacha.” Yup – not in Kansas anymore. We left the town like celebrities, with dozens of children cheering and waving us on. On this side of the lake we made a few other stops - the first to visit to Isla Cabritos National Park to see the large number of iguanas that live along the lake. Like little dinosaurs these lizards had no real fear of us, or the motorcycles, as they came around us looking for a hand out of rice, which was provided by the guys whose job it is to keep half an eye on the park and feed the lizards when visitors come to see them. Interesting little beasts they were, but don’t get involved with their eating.

Not far down the road from the iguanas was “Las Caritas” cave, high along the cliff that had carvings that were created thousands of years ago by the original Taino people. It was a bit of a climb up to the carvings but worth it, as the odd thing, and exciting for Notso Happy, was that they are almost all of “Smiling Faces.” Notso told us they were his ancestors and the original stoners. Why do you think all these Happy puppets are smiling all the time? Sadly things would not be Happy for long. For all of the roaming goats, dogs and other animals in this country I was surprised that we didn’t see more roadkill. Then we came upon the horse. I have never seen a horse dead on the side of the road before. Maybe it was hit by a truck, maybe somebody staked it out there and forgot it. We’ll never know. Passing through another town, with it plethora of charging motos, one especially caught our eye as the small motorcycle had mom, dad, two kids AND a Chihuahua! I was not sure what to expect from the Dominican Republic before I had arrived, but now the history, peoples and culture were beginning to win me over. Heading back up the lake we rode through a region where sugar cane was king and stretches for miles

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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS in both direction. Taking a break from the hot afternoon sun we found a stand selling apples in the shade and it was a prefect way to begin to slow down what had turned out to be a fascinating day along the Haitian border. We arrived back in Barahona in time for a dip in the pool before sunset and dinner.

Beach Day in Dominico After the past few days riding inland and through desert-like conditions it was refreshing to ride along the cool azure waters of the Caribbean and through a dense jungle that spilled down to the white limestone cliffs that ran to the sea. Here were the views that one thinks of when the words “tropical island” are said. On this side of Espanola the wind is fairly constant and the government has raised a large farm of wind turbines - massive in size (as we’d see up close later) they feed into the island nation’s power grid as the DR looks to the future. As we have mentioned baseball is huge here, but it seemed on this part of the island, when it is not game time, it is pasture time as more than one ball field seemed to double as a grazing land for livestock. Who needs a ground crew? Highway 44 changed course and headed inland through the National Park, with the land morphing once again from jungle and plantain plants into desert, arid scrub and low trees. Here we followed Robert’s lead and rode down a rough, hardscrabble gravel road towards one of the neatest hidden beaches I have seen. In the middle of nothing a restaurant appeared with steps and sand leading to the Caribbean. This place was lifted from a Jimmy Buffett song. Riding suits off we dove into the sea. Shira and I brought along snorkeling gear, which we shared with our friends, so most of

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 31 us got to swim around the low coral, fish for conch shells and terrorize the different and colorful fish that were plentiful here. While we waited on our lunch of conch and crab salads, fried chicken and plantains a small boat with a number of young men motored to the shore to be greeted by the people running the restaurant. In the boat they had a good variety of fish – skate, crabs, lobster and one really large fish that I couldn’t begin on guessing. Deals were made and the dinner menu set. In a week full of nice lunches and location this was by far the best and, in truth, a few days here would be good for anyone’s soul. On our ride back we passed a commercial docking facility where they had been unloading some of the wind turbines we had seen earlier, and we parked our machines up close to nine massive wind blades ready to be moved to the farm. With the motorcycles parked in their shadow you could see how considerable they really were. It wasn’t long before an armed guard came over, but with a smiling ‘hola, he happily posed for a picture. Our ride back was as interesting as the ride there and we made it back to Barahona as the sun set. With the place done up for the upcoming Christmas holidays we thought a picture with all the bikes and Santa Claus would be fun – but not as funny as when the guard we asked to take the picture didn’t know how to do it… and took a picture of himself, the new image lightning up for us to see on screen. Max the guard got it right the second time, but not before every Dominican in the lot got the biggest chuckle, even Max. For the most part the Dominican people are fun loving and love a great laugh, even at their own expense.

Back to Jarabacoa Today, our last day of the MotoCaribe tour, we would be heading back along the coast then into the interior and the mountains once again, back to our starting point at Jarabacoa.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

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Our route was the same as we took down but, like every route, it looked familiar but was a different experience heading the other way. All trips have incidents and we always hope that they be minor. It is all perspective. Sometime along the road this morning I discovered that my buddy, riding partner and all around swell puppet Notso Happy had disappeared. Missing, gone, vanished…. lost. Yes, he is a puppet, but our travels together had rounded the world and we had many years, thousands of miles and dozens of adventures behind us. Where he went I do not know – but Shira and I have always said our little travelin’ friends have free will. With nothing we could do, the ride moved forward, though with less zeal for both Shira and me, through the small towns with business going on yet mixed with the magic of the weekend. On this Saturday afternoon girls were dressed to kill, boys were washing their motos and little brown toddlers stood naked in the sun watching with bewildered stares as we rode by. Along one road I spotted some heavier headlights approaching quickly from behind, and we were passed by the local HOG Group. We’d catch up with them later at lunch to chat bikes and riding in the DR. Our meander swung back up onto the twisty mountain road that cuts through the Cordillera Central and back into the Jarabacoa Valley. Tight and serpentine “The Tail of the Iguana” rose into the mountainside jungle offering a high panorama that almost looked primeval; if I saw a pterodactyl crossing the horizon, I would not have been surprised. We stopped at a small chapel to the Virgin Mary, the same we had earlier in the trip. Today it was full of people that had come up to the church on this lovely day. But, what made it especially enjoyable was the gaggle of little boys that had made little sleds out of junk wood and skate wheels. With bravado and enthusiasm they came tearing down the concrete path that wrapped around the chapel - sliding sideways to a skidding halt in front of the bikes! Little kindred spirits they were and they loved that the grande motos were there. We gave them a bunch of Backroads and Rising Wolf stickers, which were promptly displayed in a fine NASACR fashion on their sleds. Then Mike took a turn scooting down the concrete. As I saw him round the turn at speed I thought, “Yup, this is what happens. Do a thousand miles on a fantastic adventure tour and then get crushed on some kid’s junksled!” Mike slid to a fairly safe halt with just a few holes in his riding suit, but no major get-off. Continuing onto Jarabacoa this final charge back to Camp Moto was a delight, with the differences in the regions of the DR far more apparent on this return ride. By late afternoon we had pulled into MotoCaribe’s headquarters and turned off the Suzukis for the last time with a very different and exciting tour of the Southwestern Dominican Republic now complete.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

Page 33

But was it? It now seemed that Shira’s friend Pepe was gone too. What the frack?! Something was going on, but we didn’t know what it was. Later on we figured that the monkey had gone back in search of his little yellow polyester friend. With ‘Free Will’ in play we would have to wait to see how this turned out.

Some final thoughts Many of us have our preconceived ideas and paradigms about the Caribbean islands – much of it from vacations and the tourist towns that these places are famous for. We have been there, done that with the cookie-cutter and culturally stifling bee hives - and now do our best to avoid these traps. We have long said there is a big difference between a tourist and a traveler. Choose wisely, Grasshopper. Like any other region on the planet - the feel, flavor and heartbeat of the real Dominican Republic will never be found in a pre-package resort, but rather on the backroads of the nation itself. In the tiny towns, along the dusty roads, in the faces of the children and the people waving as you ride past. It is here where the real Dominican Republican will only be truly discovered… and our friends at MotoCaribe would love to share it with you. If you’d like to read more about motorcycle travel in the Dominican Republic, MotoCaribe has an eBook available for download here:

motocaribe.com/two-wheels-in-paradise-the-essential-guide-to-riding-motorcycles-in-the-dominican-republic/ For information about tours, motorcycle rentals and everything else, visit their website: www.MotoCaribe.com


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

FIRST RIDE •

2016 TRIUMPH BONNEVILLE STREET TWIN

a ModerN twISt oN a claSSIc MachINe Do not let looks deceive you. When it comes to the 2016 Triumph Bonneville Street Twin your eyes will play tricks with you, but your ears will not. I have always believed it is sometimes not what you say, but how you say it. The new Street Twin says it strong and clear. This is a brand new day in the story of one of the world’s most iconic motorcycles. Completely revamped for 2016 the Triumph Bonneville Street Twin is powered by a 900cc liquid-cooled, eight-valve, single overhead cam, parallel twin with sleeveless Nikasilcoated cylinders and a 270° crank angle. The crank angle is key, as it gives the Street Twin one of the most sexy, pleasant and allaround ‘YES!’ tone that we have ridden in a long time.

Some things have been added and some taken away in the quest for perfection – with the Street Twin less is more as the bike rides with 55 rather than 67 horsepower found on the previous Bonnie, but with a bit more grunt - 59 versus 50 pound-feet of torque. Visually you might be hard pressed to pick out the differences, but they are there. Still, the overall look and feel states Bonneville. The Street Twin carries a small 3.2 gallon fuel tank, but the engine set up will allow for more than 50 miles to the gallon – it evens out, doesn’t it? Sitting on the machine for the first time all I could think was how small it

felt. With its seat height of just 29.5 in. and a dry weight is 437 lbs. this is indeed a tiny motorcycle (for me, standing 5’11” with appropriate weight). Unlike the other new Bonneville offerings (there are a few coming to the showrooms) the Street Twin comes with wheels that are cast aluminum - a

18 x 2.75-inch front and a 17 x 4.25-inch rear. The very familiar (at least to those who have been riding from back when LPs were still spinning) and classic-looking Pirelli Phantom tires are made to Triumph’s specs. The tires are 100/90-18 front and 150/70 R17 rear. Both front and rear brakes are handled by single Nissin 2-piston floating calipers, mated to a 310mm disc up front and a 255mm one out back. The new Street Twin does not ignore the times as the bike comes with ABS as standard, as is Traction Control (which can be turned off), and you will find a USB socket under the seat. The machine also comes with a security immobilizer.

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016 The steel chassis rides on twin preload-adjustable KYB shocks, with a front KYB fork offering 120mm (4.7 inches) of suspension travel, and has reinforcing gussets behind the engine, offering a tight, together feel, without be so rigid as to preclude any bit of wanted chassis flex or make the bike feel like it is on rails. Up front a single round gauge contains an analogue speedometer and a multi-functional LCD display shows gear position, fuel level, traction control status range-toempty, fuel consumption rate, service indicator, clock, and odometers. The gauge choices are scrolled with an “i” button on the left handlebar. All this seems a bit much, but the gauge and display is easy to work as well as to see while on the road.

SpeakINg oF oN the road… Those good-looking brushed stainless twin exhausts, with craftily hidden catalytic convertor, sing with the most pleasant tone. This 900cc engine machine has the “grunt factor” - even if it is not setting any land speed records. The 270-degree firing configuration and twin counter balancers offer a remarkable “feel” for this machine. This is 100% grin producing ride! I understand there is an aftermarket Vance & Hines scrambler exhaust option for this bike, but why anyone would want to play with this bike’s stock tone is beyond me.

The saddle is easy on the rear, although I did find the smallish Street Twin a bit confining position-wise and if you are a tall or large rider Triumph offers plenty of other options. The slick 5-speed tranny is seamless and around town I found that the bike was more than comfortable bouncing between second and third. I only found fifth on the highway, where an 80-mile per hour cruise was pleasant and easy. Although other Bonneville models have dual discs up front, the single disc on the Street Twin worked just fine, as there really isn’t all that much weight to haul down. The combination of front and back gave a smooth, linear stop even at higher speeds. You will not need more. Although physically a small motorcycle, I really liked the sitting position and the angle that the tubular handlebars offered. The seat height makes this motorcycle a viable option to all but Lilliputians. The clutch was effortless and once underway and getting the revs up above 2,500 the Triumph was in its sweet spot all the way to about 6,000 rpm. I spent a decent part of a day, exploring the familiar region around the borderlands of New York and New Jersey, where you will find BMG Triumph of Goshen, New York (www.bmgpowersports.com) who, along with Triumph’s Bill Shelton, were kind enough to help

Page 35 us get a few hours on this new machine. In truth I knew that Triumph had invested a lot of effort in revitalizing this classic machine, and after spending some time on the new Triumph Bonneville Street Twin I have come away more than a bit impressed. This Bonnie is not like any Bonnie before. The 2016 Triumph Bonneville Street Twin is a great machine that would make a fine ride for those mid-level riders looking to move up, or talented new motorcyclists that want something larger that will give them seasons of pleasure from the very start. It would also make an excellent second bike for those who have larger touring or adventure machines and are looking for something cool, classic and with serious grin factor for the occasional weeknight or Sunday ride. The Street Twin should appeal to those riders who were around back when the Bonnies dominated the motorcycle scene and the millennial beard and flannel crowd as well. MSRP for the 2016 Triumph Street Twin is $8,700 for jet black. All other colors Phantom (metal flake) Black, Matte Black, Aluminum Silver, Cranberry Red: $8,950. Find them at your Triumph dealers now. ~ Brian Rathjen


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

NEW RIDES

FOR

2016

KAWASAKI VULCAN S ABS CAFÉ New for 2016 is the Vulcan S ABS Café, which will incorporate a new tinted wind deflector and custom paint scheme. Vulcan S ABS SE, will feature a special twotone paint finish. The Vulcan S and Vulcan S ABS models will also be available in two striking new colors to add to its overall appeal. The new models in the 2016 Vulcan S motorcycle line-up are designed to enhance this very special motorcycle, which remains the only bike in its class with standard adjustable, forward-positioned footpegs, allowing a range of riders to get comfortable. It also has a low seat height, plus optional seats and handlebar to accommodate a wide range of riders. Furthermore, the Vulcan S boasts the lowest weight of any motorcycle in its class, and we all know what that means – easier to maneuver, quicker acceleration, easier to stop, quicker to turn and smooth suspension action.

Another standout element of the 2016 Vulcan S is its 649cc liquid-cooled parallel-twin engine. Derived from the Kawasaki Ninja® 650 and tuned for more low- and mid-range torque, the engine is very smooth when pulling away from a traffic light, and responsive when the rider wants to accelerate. This makes it suitable for novice riders, while its top-end power and the nimble handling will keep more experienced riders entertained all day. The Vulcan S ABS Café model will be available in Metallic Matte Carbon Gray / Metallic Matte Phantom Silver and will list for $7,999.

HONDA’S CB500X The ADV for Vertically Challenged Ever since its introduction, Honda’s CB500X has been a breakaway favorite with riders. That’s no surprise to anybody who’s ridden one: the CB500X is an adventure-style motorcycle that delivers comfort, versatility and a can-do attitude at a surprisingly affordable price. And to make a great choice even better, the 2016 CB500X features a bucketful of improvements this year. You still get plenty of performance, and the capability to excel at everything from adventure rides to sport touring. The torquey 471cc parallel-twin DOHC engine delivers the broad-spectrum power that Honda twins are fa-

And…They’re Off! FALL FIESTA 2016

SEPT. 22-26 nother riding season has arrived and, with it, another Backroads Rally. This Fall we’ll be headed north to enjoy the colors and the mountain riding, staying in and out of towns. We’ll have a group dinner Saturday at the Eagle Mountain House, so make your reservations early as rooms, and seating, are limited.

A

Thurs, Sept. 22 • Saratoga Downtowner 413 Broadway, Saratoga Springs, NY 518-584-6160 • www.saratogadowntowner.com Rooms: $99 - $139 plus tax incl. breakfast Cutoff reservation date: July 5 Ask for Backroads when making reservation

Fri/Sat, Sept. 23-25 • Eagle Mountain House 179 Carter Notch Rd, Jackson, NH 603-383-9111 • www.eaglemt.com Room and breakfast only: $170/single • $188/double Saturday night: Room, breakfast, dinner $215/single • $275/double

Cutoff reservation date: August 9 Ask for Backroads when making reservation Reserve Saturday night dinner when booking

Sun, Sept. 25 • West Dover, VT Kitzhof Inn 802-464-8310 • www.kitzhof.com

Gray Ghost Inn 800-745-3615 • www.grayghostinn.com

mous for, while the CB500X’s upright handlebar naturally accommodates a wide variety of riders. You can adjust the compact windscreen to varying heights, it is also 100mm taller this year, and the larger-capacity fuel tank is carefully shaped to give the rider an unrestricted riding position. New for 2016: A restyled LED headlight and taillight, a hinged fuel-tank filler cap, front suspension that’s now adjustable for spring preload, and a front-brake lever that’s adjustable too. The CB500X is an excellent choice for riders ready to move up a displacement class, or for anyone who appreciates a great middleweight motorcycle. And the bike’s sharp, new styling this year makes a great choice even better! Starting at $6,499 at your Honda dealer.

2017 SUZUKI SV650 In 1999, Suzuki released the original SV650. The motorcycle was designed to deliver the fun of V-twin sport riding for all riders. The SV650 instantly became a rider’s phenomenon around the world. Not only was this universal motorcycle well-suited for streets but it was right at home on the racetrack too. For 2017 (really), Suzuki introduces a new version of an iconic motorcycle that embodies the sporty personality that only a lively, mid-sized V-twin roadster can deliver. The new SV650 has greater engine performance, class-leading fuel economy, lighter weight and sportier package in an affordable price range. Raising the original “V-twin fun machine” concept even higher with the latest Suzuki innovations, the SV650’s newest version now sets a higher standard. The new SV650 has a polished powerplant that pro-


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016 vides increased performance with low emissions and outstanding fuel economy, mated to refined trim and lightweight chassis that delivers a sporty, exciting ride. Like its predecessors, the 2017 SV650 promises to have the sparkling performance, style and value that a broad range of riders will enjoy. By redesigning more than 140 parts and components, the curb mass is reduced by 19 pounds. Its slim and lightweight chassis provides super-agile handling performance, yet has a forgiving character. The ready-to-ride weight of the 2017 SV650 ABS is 18 pounds less than the 2015 SFV650 ABS. The curb weight of the new SV650 is 15 pounds less than the SFV650. The narrow bodyworks and lightweight chassis is easy to maneuver for riders of all abilities and the seat height is 30.9 inches, one of the lowest in the class. MSRP to be announced.

2016 YAMAHA XSR900 Yamaha Motor Corporation has introduced the 2016 XSR900, a new motorcycle model that blends Yamaha’s world-class engineering with a standout neo-retro style, creating a new type of machine for riders who want an authentic and honest motorcycle that delivers exciting and uncompromising performance. The XSR900 is powered by a 847cc Crossplane Crankshaft Concept, liquid-cooled, in-line 3-cylinder, DOHC, 4valve-per-cylinder engine, based on the FZ-09 - a simply awesome engine. Light and nimble handling are achieved through the XSR900 narrow all-aluminum frame with sport-oriented geometry and adjustable front and rear suspension. Ride-bywire YCC-T engine control, adjustable D-MODE throttle re-

Page 37 sponse, and an adjustable Traction Control System allows the rider to make the most of the potent engine and chassis. Adding to modern controlability, the XSR900 utilizes an advanced assist-and-slipper clutch unit that allows for reduced clutch lever effort by 20%, as well as minimizing rearwheel hop under aggressive deceleration. Exceptional braking power and confidence-inspiring deceleration are provided by sportbike-spec front brakes, backed up with the security of ABS. Drawing influence from Yamaha’s classic “XS” series of motorcycles, the XSR oozes class, with exposed aluminum details, retro-influenced bodywork, stepped seat and custom lighting and instrumentation. The result is a new model with both a fine balance of cutting-edge Yamaha technology and exterior styling that delivers timeless authenticity. The XSR900 will be available in two distinctive colors, Matte Gray/Aluminum and 60th Anniversary Yellow. For the Matte Gray/Aluminum color, the aluminum fuel tank covers are hand-buffed by skilled craftspeople and given a raw aluminum finish. And, for the 60th Anniversary Yellow color, the aluminum fuel tank covers are painted in yellow-andblack Yamaha racing livery. Each color scheme brings its own unique style and attitude to the bike. Price to be announced and they should roll into your Yamaha dealer come spring.


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

2016 Triumph Speed Triple S & R The NEW Triumph Speed Triple S and Speed Triple R take the legacy of the first factory street fighter to a completely new level in terms of performance, agility, power, handling and capability. Centered around a new 1050cc triple engine, the new Speed Triple S and R redefine the naked performance roadster. The new engine features 104 new developments that combine to deliver more power and, more importantly, more torque across the whole rev range whilst still delivering an increase of up to 10% fuel efficiency. These developments include a new combustion chamber, new cylinder head, new machined crank, piston design and new ‘Ride-by-Wire’ throttle bodies. Additional developments also include a slip assist clutch, smaller, more efficient radiator and a new free-flowing exhaust that has a 70% increase in flow rate.

The new Speed Triple S and Speed Triple R also feature a suite of riderfocused technology. Among the features that add to the Speed Triple’s performance and capability are a new ECU coupled to a new adjustable

Ride-by-Wire throttle with selectable throttle maps that increase the feel, responsiveness and control. There are now five distinct riding modes to choose from: Road, Rain, Sport, Track and a new Rider Configurable mode, that all allows the rider to set-up the motorcycle to the optimum performance relative to road conditions or environment. Key to the new Speed Triple S and R is the aggressive, athletic styling and a narrow, focused design. A low, lithe stance is accentuated by sleek new bodywork and a completely new, Daytona 675R-inspired, tailpiece. All of which has been achieved without losing any of the naked minimalist beauty that is synonymous with the Speed Triple. The new Triumph Speed Triple S and Speed Triple R redefine the Speed Triple legend – delivering the perfect balance of power, handling, capability and character in two new performance roadsters designed for maximum fun and maximum thrills with maximum attitude. Find the new Speed Triple S at your dealer with prices staring at $12,799.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

VETERANS CHARITY RIDE, PRESENTED BY INDIAN MOTORCYCLE AND CHAMPION TRIKES, DONATE CUSTOM INDIAN SCOUT TO WOUNDED MARINE Photos: Manny Pandya/Indian Motorcycle Indian Motorcycle®, America’s first motorcycle company, announced its continuing sponsorship of the Veterans Charity Ride to Sturgis for 2016 and is, in fact, expanding its level of sponsorship this year. A veteran from the inaugural event was surprised to receive the gift of a customized Indian Scout by the Veterans Charity Ride and Champion Sidecars & Trikes Friday at the International Motorcycle Show in New York City. Veteran Marine Sean Carroll, wounded in the first Iraq war, participated in the 2015 ride and was positively affected by the motorcycle therapy provided by the ride. “While serving in Iraq in 2004, 21-year old Sean was gravely injured from an IED (Improvised Explosive Device), resulting in the loss of his right leg and several fingers. Injuries such as this can take years to recover from. We wanted to do something special for Sean, giving him back a part of his life and his love of motorcycles,” says Dave Frey, founder of the Veterans Charity Ride and producer at Full Vision Productions. “Veterans Charity Ride and our supporters were so moved by his story, and seeing the results of the inaugural ride, we donated the money to purchase a new Indian Scout for Sean. We contacted Champion Sidecars & Trikes, who had donated the sidecars that Sean rode in, and they were immediately onboard with providing the first prototype trike kit for the new Indian Scout so that Sean could ride a motorcycle again.” “Appreciation and support for our military and our veterans is core to the Indian Motorcycle brand,” said Steve Menneto, President of Motorcycles for Polaris Industries. “The success of the program was clear to us in Sturgis last year as these brave men and women rolled in to town. Helping our veterans after serious physical and mental injuries is an important cause, and we’re proud of offer our continued involvement and support. We look forward to the positive effects and results of this program year after year.” Craig Arrojo, president of Champion Sidecars & Trikes is also committed to the Veterans Charity Ride in 2016, and had this to say, “The popularity of the Indian Scout and the request to do this trike project for Sean was an easy ‘yes’ for us. Dave Frey and this program really showed us how our products can be a big part of a veteran’s recovery. Our design engineering team and staff stepped up to get this project fast-tracked so Sean could ride with his fellow veterans next year.” The epic ride and adventure departs Los Angeles on July 30 en route to Sturgis, SD and culminates at the 76th annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Over the course of the nine-day journey, 15 veterans will ride America’s most scenic backroads, experiencing iconic landscapes from the seat of an Indian motorcycle as an important part of their personal healing process. Several of the Indian models will be customized with Champion sidecars to accommodate riders who are unable to operate a motorcycle themselves due to their injuries. Veterans seeking assistance and those wishing to view videos and stories of the past ride can logon to www.VeteransCharityRide.org for more information including details on partner organizations offering assistance and services for veterans and their families.

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EVENT RECAP

FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

2015 NY INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE SHOW

If you read my Free Wheelin’ (What, you haven’t? Go back and read it then come back here) you know how we feel about the dates of the NY Show. But… it would be unfair and inexcusable not to mention the good things that came into the show in the middle of December, including the wonderful temperatures that brought out hundreds of riders. All the major players were there. Harley-Davidson had all the new incarnations of their popular machines and were the first offerings you saw as you walked through the door. Ducati brought their line-up – looking good, fast and Italian as ever. Triumph brought the new Bonneville, in which they have invested heavily. They all looked nice, but the Thruxton R had me thinking very bad things. Yamaha’s new XJS900 looked like fun and we hope to have a ride review on that soon. Kawasaki’s new ZX-10R is about as brawny and sophisticated as they come and should have the track crowd salivating. Keeping things simple I liked the Suzuki SV-650 – a favorite of ours for years and even better than ever. Indian and Victory were well represented, with Victory introducing a new engine at the show. Indian also grabbed many hearts this day when they gave a trike to a Wounded Warrior at the show. Best thing I have witnessed at this show in 10 years! BMW had all the machines on the floor and had a large crowd throughout the weekend.

Honda grabbed our attention with their new Africa Twin and VFR1200X which were impressive and the CB500X looks to be an excellent entry-level ADV machine and, speaking of ADV machines, KTM steadily keeps pushing the envelope on this market. Royal Enfield could also be found as well as the newest entries from Can-am Spyder – a machine that has transformed the riding experience and kept so many, that might have had to stop riding, in the game. One real stand out was the Le Mari Moto. More a work of art than a day-today ride, this machine was truly stupendous with its representations of both Italy and New Jersey. Yes, it had the GWB etched into its engine. $100,000.00 and its yours.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

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The Market Place was well done this year with a number of different suppliers and manufacturers making the trip to partake in the show. There was the stunt show (yup, yup, yup) as well as the School of Rock and a number of interesting seminars to be found as well. As always the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club had a number of classic ride to see and, regardless of the exodus of regular vendors, there were a few new businesses that brightened up the otherwise usual vendor aisles. Look for next year International Motorcycle Show to roll back around – probably in December again. (sigh…) ~ Brian Rathjen

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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Rip & Ride • JJ Scoops 1 Main St, Clinton, NJ • 908-730-0988 • http://jjscoops.weebly.com download 120-mile loop here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/x4rz8q

START: TRAVELCENTER TRUCK STOP, ROUTE 80, KNOWLTON, NJ

LEFT OUT OF EXXON ONTO SIMPSON RD RIGHT ONTO CROSS-DECATUR ST LEFT ONTO DECATUR ST RIGHT ONTO LOCUST ST LEFT ONTO WASHINGTON ST STRAIGHT ONTO ROUTE 46 EAST LEFT ONTO WALNUT RD RIGHT ONTO DELAWARE RD RIGHT ONTO KNOWLTON RD LEFT ONTO ROUTE 46 EAST LEFT ONTO RAMSEYBURG RD RIGHT ONTO SAREPTA RD RIGHT ONTO UPPER SAREPTA RD CROSS RTE 46 ONTO MANUNKACHUNK RD LEFT ONTO GREENWICH ST RIGHT ONTO DELAWARE DR RIGHT ONTO FOUL RIFT RD LEFT ONTO CR 623 INTO RIVER RD RIGHT ONTO HILLCREST BLVD LEFT ONTO BROAD ST/RTE 122 RIGHT ONTO CARPENTERSVILLE RD FOLLOW ONTO RIVER RD LEFT ONTO PINCHERS POINT RD RIGHT ONTO MOUNTAIN RD RIGHT ONTO MT. JOY RD LEFT ONTO ADAMIC HILL RD RIGHT ONTO SHIRE RD LEFT ONTO CHURCH RD RIGHT ONTO MILFORD WARREN GLEN RD QUICK LEFT ONTO SPRING MILLS RD RIGHT ONTO RUMMEL RD RIGHT ONTO CR 519 LEFT ONTO OAK GROVE RD RIGHT ONTO GOOSE ISLAND RD RIGHT ONTO RAKE RD LEFT ONTO OLD CROTON RD LEFT ONTO FEATHERBED LANE RIGHT ONTO OAK GROVE RD LEFT ONTO THATCHERS HILL RD RIGHT ONTO SAND HILL RD LEFT ONTO OLD CLINTON RD

FOLLOW ONTO HAMDEN RD TO RIVER RD RIGHT ONTO RIVER RD LEFT ONTO LILAC DR LEFT ONTO WELLINGTON RD STRAIGHT ONTO LEHIGH ST TO MAIN ST JJ SCOOPS ON CORNER PARK AND EAT ICE CREAM REVERSE ON LEHIGH ST LEFT ONTO COUNTRY CLUB DR RIGHT ONTO REGIONAL RD LEFT ONTO VALLEY CREST RD LEFT ONTO STANTON LEBANON RD RIGHT ONTO CR 629 LEFT ONTO MAIN ST RIGHT ONTO COKESBURY RD RIGHT ONTO BISSEL RD LEFT ONTO STILL HOLLOW RD LEFT ONTO ROCKAWAY RD RIGHT ONTO MAIN ST INTO SAW MILL RD LEFT ONTO OLD TURNPIKE RD LEFT ONTO BEACON LIGHT RD LEFT ONTO CR 513 RIGHT ONTO MIDDLE VALLEY RD RIGHT ONTO ZELLERS RD LEFT ONTO PLEASANT GROVE RD INTO PENWELL RD RIGHT ONTO PORT MURRAY RD BEAR RIGHT ONTO ROCKPORT RD BEAR LEFT ONTO MT BETHEL RD BEAR LEFT ONTO JANE CHAPEL RD RIGHT ONTO PEQUEST RD RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 46 EAST HUNGRY? TAVERN AT GREAT MEADOW ON ROUTE TAKE ROUTE 46 HOME OR CONTINUE TO I-80 LEFT ONTO HOPE RD LEFT ONTO DANVILLE MOUNTAIN RD RIGHT ONTO FREE UNION RD LEFT ONTO MOUNTAIN LAKE RD RIGHT ONTO MARBLE HILL RD RIGHT ONTO HOPE RD LEFT ONTO SHADES OF DEATH RD TO I-80


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

THE DIRT ON AMERICADE For those of you who thought early June in the Adirondacks was all about Americade and that the World’s Greatest Touring Rally was just for the grand-tourer, newly grandparented, stuffed animal crowd – we beg to differ. This year’s event up in Lake George, New York will add something different and a bit dirty.

The DirtDAZE Adventure Bike Rally is a fun, adventurous and educational multi-day festival for dual-sport and adventure motorcycles. It will be held June 7-11, 2016 in northeastern New York, on a private, 800-acre adventure bike oasis with nearby class 3 and class 4 roads through the Adirondacks and Vermont. DirtDAZE is a brainchild of the organizers of Americade, who began their addiction to bikes on dirt, on trails and tracks, as young foolish men. Now, they are older, still riding on the dirt and still foolish. We wouldn’t want it any other way. The event will offer on-site KTM factory demos, vendors such as Twisted Throttle, dual sport rides to lunch, fun night time activities, riding games and contests. KTM will be onsite with two tractor-trailers, offering factory demos of their street oriented and dirt-oriented motorcycles. Factory demos from Suzuki, Yamaha and Honda with their Africa Twin will also be available throughout the week. Professional rider training will be offered by arguably the best enduro rider in U.S. history, 8x’s national enduro champion Mike Lafferty. Mike will provide hands-on beginner, intermediate and advanced training to small groups throughout the week. There will be a DirtDAZE BBQ and a Tornado Bonfire (they saw it on the internet – what could go wrong?) All registered attendees can access, for free, the nearby Americade Expo, a 300,000 sq.ft. vendor area featuring just about anything you would want motorcycle-wise and including a number of adventure bike-related vendors as well. Registered attendees will also have access to the Americade factory demo area, the largest collection of factory demos in the US, including Honda (yes, Africa Twin will be there), Yamaha (Tenere), and Suzuki (DR’s & V-Stroms). Many rides and routes will be offered for varying skill levels, allowing the rider to choose their level of difficulty, including sections on private trail systems. Some special rides will include lunch at the destinations, along with prizes offered by prominent adventure bike aftermarket companies.

Page 43 After-hour fun riding events will also be offered at the western-themed private venue. Early Registration begins late February. Volunteers are encouraged to contact the event. Event information can be found at www.dirtdazerally.com

TOURATECH USA RALLY DATES Summer 2016, Touratech-USA will host rally events on both coasts for the second consecutive year! The sixth annual Touratech Rally West will take place June 23 – 26 in Plain, Washington and Touratech Rally East will be held in Huntingdon, PA on August 18 - 21. In 2015, over five hundred riders attended the four-day Touratech Rally West, making it the largest event for adventure motorcycle enthusiasts on the West Coast. Last year’s inaugural East Coast offering drew nearly 200 riders and is expected to grow significantly in 2016. For 2016, Touratech is thrilled to announce legendary off-road racer, journalist and riding instructor, Jimmy Lewis, will be on hand to teach his two-day rider training course in Plain and oversee the popular rider challenge competitions at both events. Additional world-class rider training will be offered by DirtFIRST on the West Coast and Pine Barren Adventure Camp in Pennsylvania. The Touratech Rally is an opportunity for riders from around the USA (and in some cases the world) to camp, attend workshops and presentations, improve riding skills and explore fun mountain roads. There are awesome rides for different experience levels and all street-legal motorcycles are welcome. Visit www.touratechrally.com for details on the Touratech Rally. A limited number of volunteer positions are available for those interested in helping run the event.

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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

I ND U ST RY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

ROLLIN’ FAST INDIAN MOTORCYCLE OF LEBANON/ROLLIN’ FAST CYCLE SPORTS OPENS NEW SHOWROOM

KAWASAKI NINJA H2™ NAMED POPULAR SCIENCE’S 2015 BEST OF WHAT’S NEW

Rollin’ Fast Indian Motorcycle of Lebanon is proud to announce the opening of its new location on Route 22 in Lebanon, New Jersey, in Hunterdon County.

Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. is proud to announce that amid a long list of accolades already garnered by the Kawasaki Ninja H2™, one of the most prestigious has just been awarded from Popular Science Magazine. The Kawasaki Ninja H2 has been bestowed the 2015 Best of What’s New Award. Since 1988, “the editors of Popular Science have sought out the products and technologies poised to change our world,” according to Popular Science magazine. Referred to as Popular Science’s top prizes, the Best of What’s New Awards is a list of 100 items throughout 12 categories, and normally reserved for innovations such as smart phone apps, electric racecars, aerospace developments, and advancements in wireless technology. The Ninja H2 was named for being the World’s First Supercharged Street Motorcycle, as it’s the first production OEM motorcycle from a major manufacturer to feature a supercharger. “The Best of What’s New awards honor the innovations that surprise and amaze us—those that challenge our view of what’s possible in the future,” said Cliff Ransom, editor-in-chief of Popular Science. “The award is Popular Science’s top prize, and the 100 winners—chosen from among thousands of nominees—are each a revolution in their respective fields.” The editors of Popular Science review thousands of products in search of the top 100 tech innovations of the year—breakthrough products and technologies that represent a significant leap in their categories.

Rollin’ Fast Indian Motorcycle of Lebanon/Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports is not new to the industry. Opening up shop in 2004, brothers John Costa and Greg Faiella, operated their business on Main Street in Lebanon for 10 years before undertaking the expansion of the dealership and move onto the highway. Two years and just as many millions of dollars in the making, Rollin’ Fast’s new home features over 7,000 square feet of showroom, carrying Polaris ORV/ATV, Indian Motorcycles, Victory Motorcycles and the Polaris Slingshot. The showroom is also fully stocked with apparel and accessories, with a knowledgeable staff and technicians on hand to help address your most complex needs. Rollin’ Fast invites you to visit their new location, 1221 Rt. 22 East in Lebanon, NJ to see the space for yourself. As they gear up for Spring and the upcoming riding season, the shop is accepting service appointments for all motorcycle and ORV makes and models, in addition to custom work and paint kits. More information on the dealership can be found on their website www.rollinfast.com and live updates on what’s new at the shop can be found by following the shop’s Facebook page: Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports.

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MORE FEMALE RIDERS THAN EVER ACCORDING TO LATEST MOTORCYCLE INDUSTRY COUNCIL OWNER SURVEY Female motorcycle ownership is at an all-time high according to the latest data from the Motorcycle Industry Council. The MIC’s latest Motorcycle Owner Survey found that women account for 14 percent of all U.S. motorcycle owners, well up from the 8 percent reported in 1998. “Women continue to embrace motorcycling like never before,” said Sarah Schilke, national marketing manager of BMW Motorrad USA and chair of PowerLily, a group consisting of female motorcycle industry professionals. “Of the 9.2 million owners, more of them are women than we’ve ever recorded. In fact, the number of female owners better than doubled from 2003 to 2014. And, among the more than 30 million Americans who swung a leg over a motorcycle and rode at least one time in 2014, a quarter of these riders were women.” Among younger generations of owners, the percentage of women is even higher. Slightly more than 17 percent of Gen X owners, and 17.6 percent of Gen Y owners, are women. Among Boomer owners, women make up 9 percent. “It’s encouraging that we’re seeing more women among the riders who are entering the sport,” Schilke said. “Motorcycling is for anyone and that’s being recognized by younger generations and non-traditional customer segments.” The study revealed that female riders are safety-conscious. While 60 percent of women took a motorcycle safety course, only 42 percent of men had any formal training. In some state motorcycle safety training programs, women make up 30 percent of the student population.


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ZERO MOTORCYCLE BUYERS RECEIVE TAX CREDITS Zero Motorcycles, the global leader in the electric motorcycle industry, announced that the company’s complete 2016 model line of electric motorcycles will again be eligible for a 10% federal tax credit for plug-in vehicles. The tax credit was included in the “last minute” tax extenders bill approved by Congress and signed into law by President Obama. “Tax credits for electric motorcycles are not only an effective way to create jobs, they are also an investment in clean energy technology. We think that America can and should lead the world in electric motorcycle technology,” said Richard Walker, CEO of Zero Motorcycles. “The electric motorcycle industry is rapidly responding to our country’s need for affordable and environmentally responsible transportation. We’re naturally excited to combine our passion for motorcycles with something that benefits everyone.”

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FEDS INCREASE ETHANOL LEVELS The federal government has substantially increased the mandated amount of ethanol to be used in America’s gasoline next year, from 16.93 billion gallons in 2015 to 18.11 billion gallons in 2016, harkening widespread availability of higher-ethanol fuel blends, such as E15, which can damage motorcycle engines and void manufacturer warranties. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) announced the increase as part of the Renewable Fuel Standard (RFS), which mandates the volume of renewable fuels that must be blended into the nation’s fuel supply each year. E15, which is a fuel blend of 15% ethanol, has not been approved by the EPA for use in any of the estimated 22 million motorcycles and ATVs in the U.S., and Congress has considered measures calling for further study of ethanol and its effect on internal combustion engines. Meanwhile, many motorcycle and automobile organizations, among others, continue to lobby against ethanol, not just because its unapproved use can damage fuel systems and internal engine parts, reduce power and mileage, and invalidate warranties, but opponents also argue that ethanol pollutes more than the oil it’s meant to replace, takes more energy to produce than it delivers, drives up cost and scarcity of food resources, doesn’t reduce our oil-dependency, and the government subsidies being paid for ethanol production diverts funds that could improve our highways, bridges and infrastructure.

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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival the two SecoNd rule where are You wheN You rIde? I received an e-mail from a friend a few days back. This fellow tends to send way too much stuff, but most time it’s something motorcycle-related and fairly spectacular, when it’s a good one. Like this last e-mail. Basically it was of a young guy riding a sport bike, caught on video. This kid was simply riding along, probably very much into being filmed. He wasn’t doing anything wild, just beboppin’ along. As the film, which lasted about 90 seconds, was about to end he accelerates just a tad and something goes wrong. The bike’s rear tire breaks loose and then hooks back up. The kid overcompensates and then, and this is when it all goes to hell, his foot comes off the peg and he slams into a rock wall, the bike and rider exploding like some Hollywood movie effect. Let me tell you kids, it wasn’t pretty. It reminded me of the young rider who crashed in front of us while our small group was riding through the Adirondacks on the Backroads 10-10-10 Tour years back. He, too, lost control for no apparent reason and had a horrible meeting with a rusted steel guardrail. In both cases the riding situation went from good to very bad in about two seconds. Two seconds. That’s nothing – that’s a breath. In both cases, and many others, I have run the scenarios through my mind again and again. Why did both these riders go down, in a life changing accident, when everything looked fine just seconds before? I think I might have chanced upon the answer, and it’s something we should all take time to think about. Just where is your mind when you ride? Are you totally focused on what you’re doing? Are you consciously placing your bike in the proper lane position? Or, are you thinking about the previous day or what’s for dinner that night or what’s behind you? In both the above misfortunes I really believe that the rider was paying more attention to what was behind him than what was ahead. In the Adirondacks the rider was busy glancing in his mirrors at our group behind him instead of the approaching left hand bend. In the video I think the rider was paying more attention to the camera than the road in front of him. In both cases it all went to hell in about two seconds. It’s a rule of nature. The Two Second Rule, which should not be confused with Shira’s Five Second Rule. Everything is peachy, then two seconds later, it all gone. The only way to get around the Two Second Rule is to be ever vigilant. Don’t take your riding lightly. Pay attention to your surroundings, your lane placement and who is around you. You could be tooling along, whistling in your helmet and then some Soccer Mom in her mini van full of screaming kids, Old Man with a Hat or Texting Teen cuts into your lane. Two seconds. One breath. With the kid on Route 30 I do believe that if we weren’t there he wouldn’t have gone down. We certainly were not crowding him and we were all doing well within the posted limits. But, the show of headlights in his mirrors galvanized his attention away from the task at hand. Is it our fault he crashed? No way. Do you blame the woman in the short mini skirt that caused the guy driving the van to plow into the car stopped ahead of him, simply because he was looking at her and not in front of him? Of course not, the environment and the things around them have always distracted people. It has just gotten more intense these days with everything that is vying for our attention.

Think of your attention at one US dollar. How much of your buck are you spending on concentrating on your riding. Ninety cents? Seventy five? When that flashy car passes by and you turn to look, or you are thinking about what would be good for lunch, how much spare change do you have left for the task at hand – riding, observing, correcting and piloting your motorcycle? Not as much as you would think. We’re not robots or artificial intelligence – no, we are human so focusing is something we all have to consciously work on all the time. Try to remember the Two Second Rule before each ride. It’s universal. It applies to all. And if it comes into play it can ruin your life in a breath. ~ Brian Rathjen


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2016

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT ROCKETMAN Z-ME VESTS Conspicuity is key. There are a growing number of vehicles on the roads today, along with a significant increase of driving distractions such as cell phones, GPS and use of other personal electronic devices. If you ride a motorcycle, scooter or bicycle, run or walk on the road, the need to make yourself more visible to other road users is more important to your safety today than ever before. There are a number of high-visibility vests on the market but, for us, these from Rocketman really stand out. All Rocketman Z-Me Vests are constructed with standard features designed for excellent conspicuity and trouble free use. Available standard sizes are S/M, L/XL, or larger depending on your needs. Included are two inside front pockets that are easily accessible and large enough to fit a gloved hand. The extra deep pockets will hold many items such as road maps, earplugs, etc. The large side adjustment straps on the motorcycle vests use hook and loop fasteners for quick and easy adjustment, even while wearing gloves. Extra retro reflective material is sewn on the strap to provide added conspicuity from the sides. Although yellow is the proven winner here as far as

being seen, the vests can be ordered with any standard color choices: navy blue, yellow, forest green, orange, lime green, royal blue, red, and black. What stood out to us when we took a look at these vests was that you could have custom messages and club logos incorporated into them. “Drop Your Phone and Drive! “We’ll Both Arrive Alive” made a good and serious point. Local clubs and businesses can be featured as well. The vests sell for $45, any size, style, or color without graphics that cost around $15 to $25 depending on image. So even at the high end you have a very cool and very conspicuous piece of valuable riding gear that will come into play again and again. Think of it this way… You might never know, when you arrive home, that the vest was ever seen by that old man with a hat, the harried soccer mom with kids and a dog in the minivan, or that texting young woman. But, that is the point, isn’t it? Log onto their website at: rocketmanvest.com for more information or to order yours today. we will see you on the road!


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FEBRUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR FEBRUARY 2016 12-14 • Timonium Motorcycle Show, Maryland State Fairgrounds, Timonium, MD. Friday and Saturday, February 12th and 13th 10am – 9pm and Sunday, February 14th 10am – 6pm. For more information, go to www.cycleshow.net or call 410561-7323. 25 • Morton’s BMW Motorcycles BaseCamp BootCamp. Confused by Garmin’s BaseCamp mapping software? Want to learn how to optimize yur GPS routing? Come to the FREE BaseCamp training at Morton’s BMW, 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA. Intro session Thur, Feb. 25 evening with detailed handson session Sat, Feb. 27. Very limited seating available - for all details visit tinyurl.com/basecamp-0216 or call 540-891-9844.

MARCH 2016 4-5 • The 6th annual Modern Classics Motorcycle Show, Martin Motorsports, Boyertown, PA. The Modern Classics features a stunning selection of great motorcycles from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and the early 90s in a once-a-year indoor show. For 2016 Modern Classics will highlight motocross, trials, and enduro bikes blended with the usual wide variety of special motorcycles from that era. The event consists of the Friday evening “Kick Start” party and Saturday’s impressive “museum for a day.” For more information or to learn how to nominate your classic bike for inclusion go to www.modernclassicsbikeshow.com 19 • Bob’s BMW Motorcycles KLIM Extravaganza. 11am • New 2016 gear presented by KLIM. Everything you want to know about the KLIM brand and products including the opportunity to demo ride the gear. Jackets, pants, gloves and more. Visit bobsbmw.com for complete details. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949

APRIL 2016 16 • Spring Open House, Morton's BMW Motorcycles, 5099A Jefferson Davis Highway, Fredericksburg, VA 22408. Come join hundreds of motorcycle enthusiasts for a day of demo rides, door prizes, barbecue, vendors, music, and much more! More vendors especially welcome! Details at www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-8919844. 28-May 1 • Horizons Unlimited Virginia Travellers Meeting, Appomattox, VA. Near historic Appomattox, hundreds of world-traveling motorcyclists will gather for a weekend dedicated to overland travel. Enjoy travel presentations, seminars. workshops, vendors, off-road training, ride-outs, great food, and wonderful camaraderie in a comfortable and scenic lakeside setting. Details at www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/virginia-2016

MAY 2016 15 • Ramapo Motorcycle Club Spring Fun Run. Sign in/Endsite: Shodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte 17) Sloatsburg, NY • 9am til mid-afternoon. To benefit Helen Hayes Rehabilitation Hospital. A designated route along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads, with stops for poker/dice/scrabble or other games, with a chance to win prizes, while supporting a worthy cause. ramapomc.org 14-15 • New Sweden 450. Sign in: Cycle Gear, 2070 Rte. 70 E, Cherry Hill, NJ • 8:3010am. $50 pre-reg/$60 day of event. 450 miles of amazing roads, camping, dinner and breakfast and finishing patches. 450.nsbmwr.com for more info. 13-15 • Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park hosts Historic Oval Invitation for vintage racecars and the Thompson Vintage Motorcycle Classic featuring on-track activities, massive Swap Meet Marketplace, Manufacturer’s Midway Vendor, Antique Motorcycle Show and much more • www.thompsonspeedway.com 20-22 •Morton’s BMW Motorcycle Spring Fling Rally. For full details check their website: www.mortonsbmw.com 20-22 • 2nd Annual Red Knights Motorcycle Club Yankee Rally. Open to any Red Knight members. Bolero Resort, Wildwood, NJ. More information available: www.facebook.com/events/802996773124582 or visit www.redknightsmc.com 26-30 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK. Four days of incredible riding and fun, with overnights in historic hotels in Pennsylvania and New York state. For complete information please see page ??.

JUNE 2016 7-11 • Americade Motorcycle Rally. The Best Roads. The Most Motorcycle Companies. The Most Welcoming Rally. Lake George, NY. Special Pre-Registrant events Monday, June 6. www.americade.com • 518-798-7888 11-19 • Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia, NH. America’s Original Riding Rally. One of the Big 3 • www.laconiamcweek.com • 603-366-2000

JULY 2016 9-10 • 40th Annual Running of the Ramapo 500™. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes north Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY @ 7am. $35 advanced reistration/$50 day of event. Two-day 500-mile gorgeous ride with free camping with pool, Sat. dinner, Sun. breakfast, awards and prizes, starter pins and finisher patches. GPS route upload service for add’l fee. ramapomc.org

SEPTEMBER 2016 18 • 33rd Annual Italian Motorcycle Meet by IMOC. 10am-3pm; judging at Noon. Featured Marque: Aprilia. Admission: $10/single, $15/2-up. Hamilton Rod & Gun Club, 24 Hamilton Rd, Sturbridge, MA. For full details visit www.imocusa.com or call 248-470-5788 • 401-397-4253

What’s Happening 22-25 • BACKROADS FALL FIESTA Four days of incredible riding and fun. For full details see page ?? or www.backroadsusa.com

OCTOBER 2016 Ramapo MC Fall Foliage Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes north Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY @ 9am-mid-afternoon. Guided/self-guided tour featuring the best autumn pallet Mother Nature can provide along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads. Benefits Valerie Fund. ramapomc.org

POLAR BEAR RUN 2016 For full details and updates, visit www.polarbeargrandtour.com February 7 • 7 • RIVERTON HOTEL 7758 Martins Creek Belvidere Hwy Bangor, PA 18013 Ph 610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com February 14 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ 07470 Ph 973-837-1876 • www.hootersnj.com February 21 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 PH 732-872-1245 • www.bahrs.com February 28 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 Ph 609-6933150 • lighthousetavern.com March 6 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 Ph 908-876-1122 • www.restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com March 13 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 Ph 973-3002300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com March 20 • BRIAN’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 Ph 215 752-9400 • www.brianshd.com April 3 • THE HICKORY BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401 Ph 845-338-2424 • www.hickoryrestaurant.com April 10 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER 336 Northampton St., Easton, PA 18042 Ph 610-438-1311 April 17 • CAPE MAY V.F.W. Post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 Ph 609-884-7961 April 23 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, starting @ 11:30 AM. The rain date would be April 30, 2016; same time. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. You must get an arm band from your flight leader.



Keep the Adventure in your Travel

1190 Adventure R Jack-Of-All-Trades among

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ONLY Full Line KTM Dealer in the tri-state area

www.HanoverPowersports.com 210 Route 10 West East Hanover, NJ 973-428-1735

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210 Route 10 West, East Hanover, NJ • 973-428-1735

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Take the road less travelled with any of Honda’s Adventure motorcycles THE ALL-NEW 2016 VFR1200X

THE ALL-NEW 2016 CRF1000L Africa Twin

NC700X CB500X 210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ • 973-428-1735

www.Powersports.Honda.com Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri: 9am-6pm • Thur: 9am-8pm Sat: 9am-5pm • SUNDAY: CLOSED honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227. NC700X, CB500X, VFR1200X and CRF1000L Africa Twin are registered trademarsk of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. (08/15)


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