October 2014

OCTOBER

2014

Motorcycles, Travel &  Adventure

s d a o R n e T p o e T h t g n i s a h C r fo s r o l o C l l a F

Road Tested - 2014 BMW F 800 GS Key West in the Keystone State Backroads Summer Squeeze Appalachian Elation Monthly Columns and More

Volume 20 No. 10

W H A T ’ S MONT HLY COLU M NS

I N S I D E PRODU CT REVI EWS

FREE WHEELIN’.........................................4

TRIUMPH DAYTONA 675R ......................47

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...................................6

OLYMPIA RANGER VENT TECH..............50

ON THE MARK...........................................7

VALENTINE ONE RADAR DETECTOR.....52

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .............8

DOWN AND OUT IN PATAGONIA ............53

BACKLASH ................................................9

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS.........................58

INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................10

TECHSPECK TANK GRIPS ......................64

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .........................16 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ......18

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Victor Cruz, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826

28

BIG CITY GETAWAY.................................20

phone

973.948.4176

fax

973.948.0823

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ...............................24

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

SHIRA’S ICE CREAM RUN ......................26

online

www.backroadsusa.com

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...........54

Advertising

973-948-4176

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2014. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ..................56 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE .............60

FEAT U RES CHASING THE BACKROADS ..................28 TOP TEN COLOR CHASING ROADS ......40 KEY WEST IN THE KEYSTONE STATE....44 APPALACHIAN ELATION .........................48

MOT ORCYC LE REVI EWS 2014 BMW F 800 GS ...............................38

40 ON THE COVER: 2014 BMW F 800 GS in Autumn Beauty

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 4

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

SeriouSly Like all of you, we have a life beyond motorcycles, although motorcycles are a huge part of that life.

Friends, family and an assortment of felines saunter through our lives on a daily basis. Just a few of these folks ride and most of the riders we know and ride with are a lot like us and take their riding very seriously.

It makes things easier when the people we spend time with, whether they be just friends or, just as importantly, family, have a decent understanding of our perception of motorcycles and motorcycle riding.

Some of our non-riding family and friends are clueless or worse, have it completely wrong.

Hollywood and cable TV have brought main-stream America their onesided version of motorcyclists and motorcycles and, though I can appreciate a well crafted and hand-made machine, the drama of an anarchistic riding

association falls short on me.

But, this is how it goes deep in the jungles of cable television these days.

With that being what the television viewing public perceive as every motorcycle scenario, riders like me and other like-minded motorcycle enthusiasts get bombarded at various functions, events and the dinner table from our non-riding companions inundating us with their perceived thoughts on who we are, what we ride and how we behave.

Words mean things and affect perception and feelings.

I prefer the term ‘rider’ to ‘biker.’

A lot of motorcyclists like and embrace the ‘biker’ moniker.

It works for them and their perception of what riding is.

Still, at various events, we inevitably end up talking with non-riding friends and family or total strangers that have heard we ride and they start telling us that they saw a bunch of bikers that day, naturally thinking we ride some with the Sons of Anarchy, wear the standard Hollywood biker-wear or some sort of ‘motorcycle suit.’

They have no clue of any difference between the large and varied family in our motorcycle world.

To them every motorcyclist is exactly like the television/Hollywood persona.

I can hear the cries from some now chanting “Kumbaya – We’re all one big family!”

No, we’re not.

Try saying that to Congress. To the untrained eye politicians all look the same, but we know they are not.

There are obvious differences between the styles of the average Harley rider and BMW rider, the couple on the Gold Wing and the group of young Turks on sport du jour.

Yes, we all travel on two wheels and love to ride - but our goals, riding aspirations and styles are completely different.

It’s the truth. Nothing wrong with it, but the truth none the less.

Sometimes, at functions like weddings and such, I just shrug and let them talk – they wouldn’t understand it if I tried to explain that not all motorcyclists are gang members, nor did I build my bike from old Budweiser cans, scrap metal and duct tape.

And, most importantly, that Shira and I, and many fellow enthusiasts, both rider and biker, take our riding earnestly.

Unlike the ‘every other weekend’ (as long as there is no chance of rain) motorcyclists, riding is a big part of our lives - for many of us the biggest.

But, the real differences in our perception of riding are apparent when it comes to our gear, upkeep on machines, and the constant approach to become a better, smoother and more proficient motorcycle rider.

On the other side of the universe we have some friends and acquaintances that have thought about motorcycles or may have owned and ridden years back in the past. Many of them have a machine gathering dust in the back of the garage.

Occasionally we have gotten calls from these folks who use to ride years ago or just have that motorcycle in the back of the garage and want to fire it up and come ride with us.

I am very hesitant to do this these days. I have no problem taking a new or returning rider out in a mentoring fashion. But, I will not ride with these people on any serious day trip or tour.

There are way too many things that can go wrong in a heartbeat.

Many times these bikes have been sitting idle for years. Some are decades old and so are their tires.

Continued - Page 14

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 6

W H AT C H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

JuSt treatS, No trickS Although the temperatures seem to be sticking with the late summer theme, we’re just around the corner from the frost on the pumpkin and the planting of mums. While last month’s cover, resplended with blooming sunflowers, made us want to keep riding long into the evening hours and humid nights, this month’s reminds us that it’s time to get the heated gear into the saddlebags for when the temperatures start to dip during the ride and watch out for those piles of wet leaves on the side of the road. We’ve got plenty of great ride ideas in these pages so you can enjoy the morphing of green to yellow, red and orange leaves before they become road hazards. For those pointing their wheels south, the riding will be just about perfect, as the summer vacation crowds have disappeared, room rates have dropped to normalcy and the great local eateries will be a little more laid-back and appreciative of your visit.

While putting these pages together, a couple of rides and events slipped

2014

Raider SCL

through the cracks of our calendar so I thought I’d mention them here. Starting out close to home, the Blue Knights NJIX are holding the 26th annual Harvey C. Irons Make-A-Wish Ride on Sunday, Oct. 19. This ride is always a pleasure, with it relocated starting point now at the Chatterbox Drive-In, in Augusta, NJ. They’ll be signing folks in starting at 9am and I’m pretty sure they’ll have some sort of refreshments avaible. The police escorted ride will leave at 11am and head to Hamburg, where you’ll find food and music waiting for your enjoyment. It’s $20 per person, going to the Make-A-Wish Foundation. The Blue Knights NJIX are one of the top fundraisers around, working tirelessly to help those less fortunate. www.bknjix.org Moving south, a bit earlier in the month, you’ll find the Race of Gentlemen, held the weekend of October 3-5.

This throwback event showcases those motorcycles and cars tooling around at the beginning of the century - 20th, that is. The Oilers Car and Motorcycle Club have been entertaining folks for a couple of years with this invitation-only race on the beach at Wildwood, NJ. As their promo says, ‘Race fans hold onto your seats as these men battle for pole position against one another on our beaches like in days gone by. Early testing of mechanical machines were proven and beaten on beaches as it proved to be the safest straight away of the day. The races will all take place at the water's edge on Wildwood Beach! Here is your chance to witness the wild ride in The Wildwoods!

Vintage motorcycles and automobiles will battle it out on the beach against the rising tides for your viewing pleasure. See high speed thrills, and mechanical machines being pushed to their limits. Early Moto Cycles from 1911 and automobiles as early as 1907 will put it all out there. Indians, Harley Davidsons, Excelciors, Ford, Dodge Brothers, will all be here.’ www.theraceofgentlemen.com If you’re really heading south, you might consider a trifecta trip. Starting on the weekend of October 10-12, in Birmingham, AL is the 10th Annual Barber Vintage

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The Raider SCL features newly developed, aggressive, robust, dark Matte Iron paint accented with a Matte Raven color including unique pin striping on the front/rear fenders and headlight. A new blacked-out theme embodies the Raider SCL with black components throughout: oxidized titanium coated fork tubes, push-rod tubes, forks, exhaust, air cleaner box, wheels, meter panel, switch gear, and master cylinders, just to name a few. The 2014 Raider SCL simply stands out from the crowd. Get yours today at:

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Festival. Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum and Park (barbervintagefestival.org) is a first-class motorcyclist’s destination any time of the year but visiting during the festival puts not only the icing on the cake but a cherry on top. Michael Nemlich gave you a nice recap of last year’s event in last month’s issue, so I won’t go into it here. I’ll just say it’s a good place to start your southern sojourn before heading east to the relatively flat state of Florida for a short stay in Daytona Beach for Biketoberfest, October 16-19. While I’m not a huge fan of the gathering here, it can be quite entertaining as far as people watching and the weather should be just about right in October as well.

While here, take the 60 or so mile ride south to Orlanda and the AIMExpo at the Orange County Convention Center. (www.aimexpousa.com) This event, in its second year, combines a trade and consumer gathering, much like the european Intermot, now in its 50th year.

AIMExpo is open to the public Oct. 18-19 and you can visit manufacturers and vendors, as well as taking some demo rides. Last year’s inaugural was a hit, so I’m sure this year’s will only get better.

So peruse these pages, make your plans and head out for some of the best riding of the year. We’ll see you on the road.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

Back to School, Part i In June, I had the great fortune to attend a riding school at a track for the first time when Reg Pridmore brought his CLASS motorcycle school to Virginia International Raceway (VIR). I’d been on a track about ten years ago for a dealer-sponsored day, but it was more track time than school. VIR has a reputation as a first-class facility and I was as anxious to try it for the locale as for the training. I booked the school and a pit-lane room early so I could be close to the action and then sat around, a kid waiting for Christmas.

VIR is self-described as a country club for motorsports people and that is right on the money. In rolling terrain just above the North Carolina border, VIR is as remote as it is beautiful, situated about 3 ½ hours South of Richmond.

Once I cleared Richmond’s maze of expressways and toll roads, however, I was on the excellent secondary roads for which Virginia is known. A radio station playing old-school country music reminded me I was in the South and I rolled down the window of the pickup, stuck out my left arm, and toe-tapped as the miles fled by.

Reg runs his schools on Monday and Tuesday, so I arrived Sunday evening as races were concluding, forcing me to wait a little at the pit lane gate before I could check in.

Soon, I was registered and I drove over the bridge to the interior of the track. Talk about cool: VIR has more than a dozen double rooms on the second story of buildings on pit lane, with balconies where you can watch the action.

Below the rooms are garages that can be rented separately.

Page 7 The rooms have two double ‘Murphy beds’ that will fold up into the wall so you can use the room as a hospitality suite if you want. A kitchenette area with a sink, small fridge, and microwave complete the ensemble, along with a bath with a shower. It was the perfect place from which to stage for the school, only a couple hundred yards from the classroom, registration, and tech inspection buildings. I could have had a room with a Jacuzzi tub at VIR’s beautiful lodge, which is just outside turn 5, but I preferred being closer.

There’s ample trailer and bike parking in the lot by the rooms and I was soon unloaded and ready, so I met Brian and Shira for dinner.

VIR’s remote location means it’s a long way to anywhere, but fortunately, their Oak Tree Tavern and restaurant is right on the grounds and it is excellent. The Tavern is in an old plantation house, complete with a big front porch where we had some refreshments before our meal. Our friendly, perky, quirky server kept us fed and entertained.

VIR also has some other neat features, including a go-kart track, a skeet range, and a full-service spa. If you want to take someone along who isn’t a rider, they can book a spa day or just hang out on the balcony of the lodge or pit lane rooms, reading and watching you sweat on the track. For either participants or spectators, there’s a lunch concession area right by the school building at turn 3 that serves everything from salads to fried baloney sandwiches.

Reg and his crew have the classroom, registration, and tech sessions ready first thing in the morning, so it was a short ride to get a name sticker on me and a tech sticker on the bike. It’s a run-what-you-brung affair where bikes are concerned and as long as your tires are relatively new, there are no leaking fluids, and the mirrors and rear brake light are covered or removed, you’re golden. Head-to-toe, non-mesh riding gear of any sort, one- or two-piece, is acceptable. Full-face helmets are preferred, although I saw a couple flip-fronts: remember, CLASS is NOT a racing school – it’s a riding school.

Continued - Page 14

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 8

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD iN Search of the all-SeeiNg caNtore I have tried and tried, with great vigor in fact, to invent a machine to predict the weather. I went the witch’s cauldron route, mixing in rainwater, an old barometer, an aviation weather map I had as a kid, and a non-autographed picture of the Weather Channel’s Ace weather guru Jim Cantore. I then poured the concoction into the case of an old Bondi Blue iMac, and attempted to get a forecast out of it.

Nothing. No flawless weather images from the future, no ghostly wind and precipitation charts. And I thought the Cantore picture was the key, too.

I think you know why I went to all this trouble, too. As touring motorcyclists, the weather can be the biggest variable we face on the road, right up there with traffic and mechanical issues. I’ve always been a keen observer of the weather, and not

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just when I started riding motorcycles. As I’ll wager it has for you, the more I traveled the more it became critical to know what the weather was plotting on the road ahead. The danger of severe storms became of paramount importance, especially since so much of my motorcycle touring time was in the summer when big storms can pop up quickly, and so I was always on the lookout for the latest way to get the latest forecasts, warnings, etc. while on the road. Before Internet access became so shockingly portable, I typically would rely on a sturdy (and small) little weather radio that could usually access local weather pretty much anywhere I was. Over time, this got replaced by a Phone and then a Clever Phone and now, ultimately, a Smart Phone. I’m sure we’re on the cusp of seeing a Very Smart Phone, but I’m good with what I have for now.

Over the years of listening to weather forecasts, I’ve been forever entertained by the eternal struggle between when they’re exactly right, and when they miss the mark by a country mile. The ratio of these two results seems largely unchanged, too, as despite the leaps in technology available to help meteorologists do their thing, I think the weather is getting tougher to predict because a lot of the dynamic drivers that have been reliable indicators for decades are changing. But something else is changing too: I’ve discovered that after years of watching the weather I’m starting to get a feel for what’s going on and often incorporate my own predictions (always erring on the conservative side) when I’m riding a long way from home. I often look more at local conditions on the phone than I used to, because there is a wealth of information in a dew point. No matter what the location, if you can get wind speed, and whether it’s changing direction or increasing or decreasing, you can cobble together your own shortterm forecast. Same with barometric pressure, for a falling barometer can spell precipitation (or just change) is on the way, or fair weather (or lowering temperatures) if the mercury is on the rise.

And then there’s my best buddy, and one of my favorite riding companions: radar. Nothing can tell you you’re about to get clobbered more dramatically than radar, and I would have killed to have access while on the bike a few years ago when one of those aforementioned summer storms popped up and messed with me, on a long remote highway with nary an overpass in sight. Now on trips where the weather looks iffy, stop for gas, clean the visor, check the tires and pull out the Smart phone and go to the application of your choice (I have seven or eight weather apps on my phone, and usually one of them can snag a current radar rendering of the area where I’m riding) and check on things. I even have one app called Lightning Finder, and it has a notification feature I can set up to, well, notify me. And since it’s the only notification I’ll have turned on, it can tell me if there’s a lightning strike within a few miles by vibrating in my pocket. It’s a very useful feature, and naturally if you’re stopped it has a map to show you exactly where lightning is confirmed to be hitting the ground. Neat huh? It’s a favorite in really nasty weather.

There are other apps that can do this, but this particular one is the best in my view.

All these tools are but backup to my stunning prognosticating skills. OK, maybe not, but I have really learned a lot over time, especially in terms of patterns.

We have a horse farm 6 miles from our home, and that place routinely gets more rain (usually 20% or more) than here. How is this possible? There are no dramatic changes in terrain, no big bodies of water, or anything that would perhaps explain it. It just happens. It’s a pattern. Same thing with the pop-up nature of summer rainstorms. They tend to be fairly isolated, so if you know the prevailing winds are pushing them south and you’re riding north, the odds are you’ll only get wet for a little Continued - Page 14

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 9

BACKLASH Summer Squeeze Hi Guys, Just wanted to tell you we had a fantastic time at the Summer Squeeze.

We enjoyed spending some more time with you and the folks there were awesome...as was the staff at the Gray Ghost. You know how to pick them! Sorry I didn’t have the chance to say so-long to you...I was packing. It looks like the Mustang visit was a good one! We had a mostly uneventful and only mildly damp ride home...it’s all good. We’re seeing how Shippensburg will fit into the schedule...I think we’ll be down for at least part of it.

One place I’d like to suggest for a ride out that way is the Swigart Antique Auto Museum in Huntingdon...www.swigartmuseum.com/. I think a lot of your folks might enjoy it. Of course, some of the Route 30/Lincoln Highway riding is pretty cool with the painted barns, the roadside giants and such. In fact, the original Coffee Pot is just outside of Bedford, which is certainly within striking distance of Shippensburg. Just some thoughts.

So glad this Summer Squeeze worked out...we’re still talking about it.

Pam & Tim Thanks Pam and Tim. Per your suggestions, one of our routes will include the Swigart Museum, as well as Texas Lunch and Hall’s Ice Cream. Triple Play for riders. ~ed.

Hey Backroads, I really had a wonderful time. Thank you for the sticker. By the way Brian is a hilarious joke teller. You and Shira made me feel part of the family.

Thank you Gary Thanks for joining in on the Summer Squeeze. It’s always great to have some new folks attend and grow the already wonderful group we’ve developed over the 16 years we’ve held our get togethers. Hope to see you at future events and on the road. ~ed.

Letters to the Editor

And the Answer is……

Subject: Quote That line is spoken by Obi wan Kenobi to Han Solo in the cantina in Mos Eisley when arranging for transport to Alderran. Gotta love Star Wars!

Terry Faherty Subject: Imperial Entanglements - George Washington?

George Washington’s farewell to his officers at Fraunces Tavern? Didn’t search it. Otherwise I’m thinking Ben Franklin post-revolution when France and England were about to have back at it. Those are my best guesses.

Love the magazine. We met briefly in Sugar Loaf. I’m sure we’ll meet again. Keep up the good work. Best wishes!

Joseph J. Ranni, Esq. Ahhh...Nope nowhere close, but good attempt. Terry, you’re the winner.

The answer: Star Wars Han: It’s the ship that made the kessel run in less than 12 parsecs. I’ve outrun imperial starships. Not the local bulk cruisers, mind you. I’m talking about the big corellian ships now. She’s fast enough for you, old man. What’s the cargo?

Obi-Wan: Only passengers— myself, the boy, two droids, and no questions asked.

Han: What is it, some kind of local trouble?

Obi-Wan: let’s just say we’d like to avoid any imperial entanglements.

IMPACT Who knew that turtles were amphibians? I always took them for reptiles.

Gregory W. Bagen • Attorney at Law Seriously Greg... you care? Close enough for jazz!

But, lawyers on the other hand....Ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss!

(Except my lawyer Keith)

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 10

IN DU STRY INFOBITES ZERO WINS VETTER CHALLENgE Zero Motorcycles, the global leader in the electric motorcycle industry, announced today that longtime customer and collaborator, Terry Hershner, won the Vetter Fuel Economy Challenge. Founded by motorcycle designer Craig Vetter, the winner of the Vetter Challenge is determined by using the least amount of energy, as measured in dollars and cents, versus the cost of miles per gallon of gasoline or diesel fuel.

Aboard his modified 2012 Zero S electric motorcycle with an aerodynamic fairing, “Electric Terry” covered 172 miles at a cost of only $2.29, or approximately 1.3 cents per mile, becoming the first electric powered motorcycle to win and the most efficient to date.

Even accounting for higher electricity costs and paying an equivalent in fuel taxes, Hershner and his Zero motorcycle were 25% better than their nearest petroleum powered competitor.

After riding his winning motorcycle from Utah back to Zero Motorcycles’ headquarters near Santa Cruz, California, Hershner said, “I enjoy showing people what an electric motorcycle is capable of. The Zero is fun to ride, replaces most trips by car, and as we demonstrated at the Vetter Challenge, remarkably efficient.”

Hershner started riding electric motorcycles in 2008, bought his Zero in 2012, and has been pushing boundaries ever since. In a couple short years, he has logged over 66,000 miles on his Zero S. His upcoming goals include completing the “Iron Butt” challenge (1000 miles in 24 hours) and bettering

News from the Inside his United States coast-to-coast time of 135 hours. Terry logs many of his travels on Facebook.

MOTORCYCLE MALL IMPORTS DUCATI MASTER TECHNICIAN Motorcycle Mall, located in Belleville, New Jersey, has hired an Italian Ducati Master Technician to solidify its service department and provide tristate area Ducati enthusiasts with an opportunity to have a technician with World Superbike (SBK) race experience work on their motorcycle.

The Venice native, Emanuel Pellizzari, joined Motorcycle Mall after they acquired the Ducati franchise last spring from Trebour Motorcycles.

Emanuel arrived at Motorcycle Mall with 18 years of experience – both at large Italian dealerships and with Ducati race teams. He was most recently Service Manager at Ducati Toulouse (France) and Ducati Rome, and spent a few years as Lead Technician and Service Manager at Ducati Siena.

Early in his career, Pellizzari gained quality knowledge as a technician specializing in engines, with NCR Racing at their headquarters in Bologna, making exclusive and exotic motorcycles and at the world’s most famous racetracks working on NCR Racing’s multiple SBK Ducati race teams.

Under the guidance of Walter Cussigh, famous Ducati racer and Lead Technician for NCR Racing, Emanuel studied, learned and worked on the Ducati 998 race bikes that won the SBK championships in the early 2000’s.

In addition to working for NCR Racing, he also worked with the Dolomiti

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 12 Racing Team and most recently, Team Ducati SS Lazio MotorSport (2011) in the SuperStock 1000 series (STK) and Red Devils Roma Race Team in SBK in 2012. Emanuel had the pleasure of working on the race bikes for Ducati racing legend Troy Bayliss and current SBK rider Niccolo Canepa and his Ducati 1198RS in 2012.

In addition to having a wealth of Ducati experience, Emanuel is also certified with the other major Italian motorcycle manufactures: MV Agusta, Aprilia, Moto Guzzi, Moto Morini, Bimota and Benelli. Pellizzari brings over 10 years experience with Dynojet (Motorcycle Dynamometer) and can create a custom maps for all motorcycles for those looking for additional horsepower.

gSMMOTORENT CELEBRATES 5 YEARS OF DUAL SPORT MOTORCYCLE RENTALS IN BIg BEND TExAS GSMmotoRent, a recognized expert in motorcycle touring throughout the Smokey Mountains, will again move south this winter to the good riding in Terlingua, Texas. For the 5th year they’ll be offering a complete selection of dual sport motorcycle rentals from January 15th to March 15th, just outside the Big Bend National Park.

According to owner Dan Dickie, “We chose Terlingua for its location between Big Bend National Park and the Big Bend Ranch State Park, as both provide endless riding — from mild-to-wild — on paved and unpaved roads. Temperatures at this time of year are 70 degrees and the skies are sunny.” GSMmotoRent

customer John Jackson, Birmingham, AL adds, “We’ll definitely be back.

Great riding, great weather, this was the perfect getaway from the harsh winter we had back East this year.”

Fly and ride Offering a range of 200 - 650cc dual sport bikes, as well as maps and local knowledge, GSMmotoRent riders find what they’re looking for. Fly into the Midland, TX, airport and the company offers a $700 package that includes a rental car for 5 days, 4 nights lodging, and 3 days on a bike, based on double occupancy. More info can be found on their website at gsmmotorent.com/portfolio-item/traveling-terlingua/ So if the winter weather starts getting you down this might be the perfect escape, as well as chance to ride a very unique area at a reasonable cost. Visit them at www.gsmmotorent.com to contact their office for more information.

TSUjIkAWA NAMED MARkETINg DIRECTOR AT STURgIS MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM The Sturgis Museum & Hall Of Fame board of directors is proud to announce the appointment of industry veteran Tigra Tsujikawa as Marketing & Development Director. Just in time for the annual motorcycle rally in the Black Hills, the hiring of Tsujikawa is part of the museum’s stated mission to “honor the ride and build the legacy” of the Sturgis Rally.

“It is our goal to expand the operation into a world class facility and become a true destination,” says Executive Director Christine Paige Diers. “For the past decade we have offered visitors to the Black Hills a unique opportunity to not only visit the home of the largest motorcycle rally in the country but also learn about the people who helped create the sport and culture of motorcycling, and view our compelling collection of vintage motorcycles, artifacts and memorabilia. Hiring Tigra will help us bring this sense of history to even more people in the future.”

“It is this sense of history intertwined with motorcycling that is really com-

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 pelling to me as a lifelong rider and student of the motorcycle industry,” adds Tsujikawa. Her career spans two decades and includes stints with the American Motorcyclist Association, Kawasaki and Fox Racing. During her time with the AMA, Tigra successfully managed the Vintage Motorcycle Days, AMA Hall Of Fame induction ceremonies and the last two International Women & Motorcycling Conferences, making her uniquely qualified to help forward the museum’s expansion plan. “I love riding and feel the happiest on two wheels or meeting other riders,” she says with a smile. “I also try to bring new people into the world of riding and the museum is a great portal for people who are interested in motorcycling.”

Riders attending the Sturgis Rally this year are invited to get an update on the Museum in person from Diers and Tsujikawa.

“Our goal is to stand alongside other prominent Black Hills destinations that promote tourism, economic development and the unique place that is the Black Hills,” says Diers. “We’ve developed a concept drawing to give potential donors a true feel for what it is we’d like to accomplish. We want to share that with you now so you can fully appreciate our plans to Honor the Ride… Build the Legacy!”

DOOBIE BROTHER PATRICk SIMMONS TO PARTICIPATE IN MOTORCYCLE CANNONBALL ENDURANCE RUN 2014

CROSS-COUNTRY jOURNEY LEADS UP TO NEW ALBUM RELEASE Patrick Simmons, founding member of The Doobie Brothers and longtime motorcycle enthusiast, will ride coast to coast, with his wife, Cris Sommer Simmons in the Motorcycle Cannonball Endurance Run 2014 in September.

The duo will journey more than 4,100 miles from Daytona, FL to Takoma, WA on their 1934 and 1929 Harley-Davidsons with stops in GA, TN, MO, KS, CO, UT, N V, ID, and WA. Cris, who is a well-known author and member of the National Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Anamosa, Iowa and the American Motorcycle Heritage Foundation Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Westerville, Ohio, and the Sturgis Motorcycle Hall of Fame, will be raising money on the ride for Stand Up To Cancer, in honor of their son, Pat Jr., who battled testicular cancer last year and now is cancer free.

The Cannonball Run began in 2010 as a ride to showcase the restoration

Page 13 and power of antique motorcycles built before 1915. It has since evolved into a cross-country endurance ride held every other year with over 100 participants, which now includes bikes built before 1936.

In preparation for the ride Patrick notes, “Cris and I are excited, and so ready to head out on the 2014 Motorcycle Cannonball Endurance Run. We have been working on our bikes for over a year now.” Cris previously participated in the 2010 Cannonball Run, where she was the only American female out of 45 riders. She completed the over 2,800 miles and finished in 20th place.

This year Patrick Simmons will be riding a 1929 Harley-Davidson JD, nick-named “Norge” because of its similar blue color to Norge refrigerators once popular in the 1950s. As for Cris’ choice, she explains, “My bike “Buddy” is a 1934 Harley-Davidson, named after it’s previous owner, wellknown Hollywood stunt man Bud Ekins. Pat bought the bike from Bud many years ago and I stole it from Pat in 1993, vowing to ride it ‘someday’.”

Patrick Simmons has spent the majority of the summer on tour with The Doobie Brothers and preparing for their upcoming release Southbound. The album celebrates the band’s iconic hits re-recorded alongside some of country music’s biggest stars (including Blake Shelton, Zac Brown Band, Sara Evans, and Brad Paisley). After his participation in the Cannonball Endurance Run, Simmons will continue to tour with the band and plan for the upcoming release of Southbound November 4, on Arista Records Nashville.

To learn more on the Cannonball Run or the Doobbie Brothers upcoming release visit: www.MotorcycleCannonball.com and www.DoobieBros.com.

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 14 free WheeliN’ Continued from Page 4 Pulling out bikes covered with cobwebs and then riding with your once sharp riding skills, also covered with cobwebs, can often end up with very bad results. Panic and target fixation will end your day quickly.

At this year’s Spring Break we had two bad crashes during the weekend.

One bike was decades old and both riders were occasional motorcyclists.

Both knew how to ride a bike, but lacked serious saddle time and real riding skills. In the tight twisty roads of southern Virginia it was like bringing a knife to a gunfight.

Riding with experienced and solid motorcyclists was beyond these machines and owners. The damage to both motorcycles and riders was painful and needless. If you ride, you’ll ride better if you take your riding and your machine seriously regardless if you consider yourself a biker or a rider.

Continued from Page 7 oN the mark You’ll have to wait for more, but here’s a clue: over two days, I put 260 track miles on two bikes, never came close to feeling like I was in danger from another participant, got some excellent one-on-one instruction, and got two fast laps in with “the man” himself piloting my machine with me riding pillion. By the end, I thought I was going to have to have the grin surgically removed from my face. It was a wonderful experience and I’m signed up for both days of the October edition. Perhaps I’ll see you there for Part II. I highly recommend it.

PoStcardS from the hedge

Continued from Page 8 while until you get a breather. And if there’s no lightning and the wind seems to be generally behaving itself, you may proceed with a degree of confidence.

Combine all the resources you have and sprinkle in a bit of your own experience and observations, and like a bolt out of the blue you have a good idea about what you’ll be dealing with for the next few hours. Hey, this Smart Phone and human-based system is no substitute for the Great Cantore, but it sure beats a Bondi Blue iMac case filled with a witch’s brew of weather bilge sloshing around on the back of your bike.

At least, so far. Maybe if I add Al Roker’s sunglasses to the mix. . .

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OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 16

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M YST ER IOU S AM ER IC A NatioNal JouStiNg hall of fame NATURAL CHIMNEYS REGIONAL PARK, MOUNT SOLON, VIRGINIA 22843 GPS: -79.087643, 38.352525 Back in 1981 a film hit the theatres that really appealed to motorcycle riders like us. George A. Romero’s Knightriders.

In this movie, that did well with the riding community but not so much the critics, King Billy, played by a very young Ed Harris, leads a traveling troupe that follow “Arthurian” ideals and move from town to town offering locals admission to the games where ‘knight’ joust; not with horses, but rather motorcycles.

King Billy rode a beautiful and, at that time, newish CBX. I remember parking my Z1 alongside a dozen other motorcycles to see this film when it first came out.

But, that was a long time ago and jousting is a forgotten sport as well.

Wait…. no, it isn’t!

The famed sport is alive and well in Mount Solon, Virginia at the majestic Natural Chimneys Park.

The scenic beauty of Natural Chimneys Park provided the ideal location for the Hall of Fame as it was also home to the annual jousting tournament known as “America’s oldest continually held sporting event.”

Yes, the oldest sporting event in the nation.

This joust is held the third Saturday of June each year at Natural Chimneys Park.

According to the National Jousting Association a legend tells us that in 1821 a certain lovely young lady named Lucy Ann would not decide between two suitors. Her uncle, having just read the exciting new novel

by Sir Walter Scott, Ivanhoe, declared the matter of suitors would be settled by the ancient and chivalric method of a joust. Lucy Ann was duly wed to the winner and the tournament was such a resounding success and met with such local enthusiasm that it became an annual event at Natural Chimneys.

We were riding along this region when I spied a pair of lances crossed at the entrance to Natural Chimneys Park.

The Hall of Fame opened in 1979 with 48 charter members representing four states: Maryland, Virginia, Pennsylvania and West Virginia. On that third Saturday of each June they are inducted in a special and colorful ceremony before a crowd of hundreds. The induction ceremony is followed by a championship jousting tournament.

The Jousting Hall of Fame encapsulates all that is the finest of American Jousting.

Although the origins of the sport are European, the evolution and refinement of most of the customs of the ring tournament are decidedly all-American. Nowhere is there another sport that encourages more pageantry, competition and participation in the traditions of a colorful past. As you read these practiced customs and traditions remember they are neither required nor enforced. They are, however, part of the elegance that makes a jousting tournament one of the most unusual equestrian sporting events ever witnessed. The term “tournament” originally referred only to this sport. In the early twentieth century this terminology was adopted by other sporting events such as golf, tennis and other games that were grouped into series of contests.

Therefore, for ease of recognition, and because of its history this sport is now commonly referred to as “jousting.”

In 1962 Maryland became the first state to recognize an official state sport.

That they chose Jousting is a further testament to this sport’s uniqueness.

Nobody is trying to knock another off his or her horse these days, rather the object of this sport is to gallop your horse down the track and attempt to spear small rings with the use of a lance. This is not an easy thing to do.

Riders are without restriction as to the type of horse they may use. Types range from Shetland ponies for the smallest children to Quarter Horses, Ara-

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 17 bians, Paints, even imported draft-size Friesians.

In keeping with the traditions of their medieval predecessors, today’s Knights and Maids are always referred to by their “titles”, such as “The Knight of Ivanhoe” or “The Maid of Greystone.” All titles are self-appointed and may be taken from a limitless variety of sources: the rider’s farm name, historical events, horse’s name or even humorous subjects such as “Knight Of I Will If I Can.” Incidentally, that title was first used in 1872, and four generations later it is still in use.

How cool and interesting is all this?

This event might just require another trip to Virginia.

The movie Knightriders is still a favorite of mine, although I do not have a VHS machine to play my copy any more.

Alas, lest I findith a new DVD copy I will see King Billy never more… never more.

If you’d like to check out some jousting before the Hall of Fame tournament next June, you can journey to Brunswick, Maryland for the National Jousting Championship Saturday, October 11 • www.nationaljousting.com/ O’Life out!

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 18

Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports presents the

G RE AT AL L AM ERI C AN DINE R R UN river ruNNer’S rooSt 2378 RTE. 97 , POND EDDY, NY 12770 845-557-0097 • WWW.RIVERRUNNERSROOST.COM I don’t smoke, I don’t shoot smack But I got a spicy monkey ridin’ on my back.

Don’t eat beignets, too much sugar and dough, But I will play for gumbo– J. Buffett Here at Backroads Central we don’t have to go too far to have a serious gumbo. All we have to do is let Brian do his magic for a few hours and we are good to go. It’s even better when served the second day.

Not all have the patience to make a good roux, but we recently found some serious gumbo magic along the scenic part of the Delaware River.

But, at the River Runner’s Roost in Pond Eddy, New York, on curvaceous Route 97 just north of the Hawks Nest, Cajun cuisine is just a small part of the offerings to be found.

Owners Rich and Mary Codichini are not new to making folks, both locals and travelers, happy. In fact, although the River Runner’s Roost is just in its second year, they are the fourth generation of this same family to follow in the clan’s tradition.

Since 1924 their family owned and operated Gino’s Tavern and Restaurant in Port Jervis.

‘Progress’ closed Gino’s in 2011 and soon after Rich and Mary bought an ice cream and hot dog

tasty places to take your bike stand along the famed ‘97’ and that soon became the River Runner’s Roost – the newest restaurant along this great piece of two-wheeled pavement.

We began to get emails and comments on how good the food was, especially the gumbo and made it a point to stop up for lunch last month and were not disappointed.

The River Runner’s Roost might have a bit of an identity problem.

The outside looks like a very cool, very Delaware River restaurant. The signs are happy and inviting looking and the deck has enough room for a good-size riding group. The inside feels a bit more upscale with a nice bar, booths and tables. Soft 60’s and 70’s rock & roll wafts around the Roost.

We were the first ones to arrive on a Thursday afternoon, so we had a choice of tables and Mary and Rich were as cordial as they come.

Before we knew it we had some hard-core drinks – pink lemonade and a diet coke – in front of us and were perusing the ample menu. The River Runner’s Roost bills itself as “Barbeque, Steakhouse, Cajun, and a little bit of Italian.”

Like we said it’s an identity problem – especially when you do it all so well.

We had parked the bikes around the back, near the small building that houses their smokehouse. The deep aroma and good deal of smoke rose from the small stack.

Appetizers include calamari, steamed Top Neck clams, wings (regular, Buffalo or BBQ) hot grilled pretzel (served with house made mustard) or three different types of sautéed shrimp among others. We tried the BBQ meat eggrolls. Coming in a choice of BBQ chicken, pork or beef they were phenomenal as was the homemade blue cheese BBQ dipping sauce.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 19

It was too early in the day for the Roost’s barbeque – but we will be back late one afternoon to partake, as they don’t start serving this till 4:30ish.

But the menu full of pulled pork, Texas-style beef brisket, St. Louis spare ribs and chicken definitely caught our eye. You can have three and four meat combos as well as a clam-bake and mac & cheese from the barbeque side of the menu.

They have the basics covered with four different dogs and four different burgers. We had the standard bacon cheeseburger and it was plump, juicy and done to perfection. The well-done fries were excellent too as were the onion rings.

Simple sandwiches are anything but with all being created from Black Angus beef, pastrami or corned beef.

Shira went for the Cajun sausage with peppers and onions and was not disappointed, especially with the Cajun sauce.

If you are in a steak mood (always a bit heavy for the pre-ride feasting) you can have a variety of char-grilled or Cajun-style.

Their little bit of Italian has all the red, white & green standards with chicken, pork cutlet and eggplant parmigian, baked penne with meatballs or sausage along with clam sauce and scampi dishes.

A little bit Italian?

Although we didn’t order the gumbo dinner, we were able to convince them to serve us a small bowl – just ‘cause we were craving it and had heard so much about it.

We are here to say the gumbo was very, very good and well worth the ride we will send you on to get to the River Runner’s Roost.

The Hawks Nest is all well and good, but gets a bit crowded on the weekends. We thought we would give you a simple, fun and pleasant way up to this part of the scenic Delaware River from our part of northern New Jersey.

Enjoy your meal at the Roost!

Rip & Ride can be found on page 64

See the full line of Victory motorcycles and apparel at

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908-236-9000 • www.rollinfast.com Here to serve you Monday-Friday 9a-6p • Thurs til 7p Saturday 9a-5p • Gone Riding Sunday

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 20

BIG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

five Star geNeral StoreS COMBING THE BACKROADS OF WESTERN NEW JERSEy We have written about the Americanization of this land for years. Strip malls, box stores, miles and miles of shopping centers now litter and have taken much away from what once allowed small town America to thrive and carry on the charm that made them so damn… well, charming.

Back in the day there were no malls, “Big Box” stores, or corporate chains to fill the need of supply and demand.

Nope, things were simpler then.

Most little towns had one central place where folks could get almost everything and anything they needed - the general store.

During the mid to late nineteenth century, general stores were usually the first business establishments popping up in a town. But, they were more than just stores, they were the gathering places for townspeople and farmers where they bought items like hardware, food items in bulk, clothing items, and seed for planting. The general store often housed the town’s post office and served as a local place for townspeople and farmers to gather around a potbelly stove, checkerboards, and pickle barrels. It was the place where people could visit and catch up on the latest news and gossip.

Today you might think that if you try to have a little get together or meeting at Walmart, you would be asked to leave. But, we have actually seen folks gather at the tiny Dunkin Donuts in the Walmart in Newton, New Jersey around the same time each day over the years.

But, we don’t think these places have the same je ne sais quoi that the small general store had in the past.

However the general store is not a thing of the past. When you leave the cities and urban area you can still run into towns with a general store.

The western parts of the Garden State have a number of general stores to be found and a good number of fair miles in between them.

We went in search of a few of these and found our Five Star General Stores.

Each has their own bit of charm and some will even still post your mail. It is not just Jersey that has these wonderful relics from the past – you will find them in so many places – you just need to search them out.

Many of these have been around for a long, long time. Some starting back in the early 1800’s, back when you ordered from the store, picked it up in your carriage, and hauled your supplies back to your homestead by horse.

No amazon.com, thank you.

Here are our Five Star General Stores west of the Passaic River.

StaNtoN geNeral Store 171 STANTON RD. , FLEMINGTON, NJ 08822 908-236-0009 • STANTONGENERALSTORE.COM Located on County Road 629, in Hunterdon County, this building was built back in 1837 and they proudly let passersby know this with a bold sign across the side of the old building that says “The Biggest Little Store in the County.”

While each of these throwback establishments have an aura of their own, the Stanton has developed into a real restaurant with a separate dining room and an outside patio area as well. Here you will find pizza, burgers, hot dogs

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Can-AmOffroad.com ©2014 Bombardier Recreational Products Inc. (BRP). All rights reserved. ©, ™ and the BRP logo are trademarks of BRP or its affiliates. In the U.S.A. products are distributed by BRP US Inc. Offers valid in U.S.A. only from August 1, 2014 to October 31, 2014. See an authorized BRP dealer for details. The conditions may vary from state to state and these offers are subject to termination or change at any time without notice. *Rebates up to $2,500 on select models. Rebate applicable to new and unused 2012 to 2014 Can-Am ATVs and CanAm side-by-side vehicles. Rebate amount depends on the model and model year purchased. Dealer may sell for less. While quantities last. See a participating BRP dealer for details.

Some models depicted may include optional equipment. BRP highly recommends that all ATV drivers take a training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety, always wear a helmet, eye protection, and other protective clothing. Never carry passengers on any ATV not specifically designed by the manufacturer for such use. All adult model Can Am ATVs are Category G ATVs (General Use Models) intended for recreational and/or utility use by an operator age 16 or older. For side-by-side vehicles (SXS); Read the BRP side-by-side Operator’s Guide and watch the Safety DVD before driving. For your safety, wear a helmet, eye protection and other protective gear. Fasten lateral net and seat belt at all times. Operator must be at least 16 years old. Passenger must be at least 12 years old and able to hold handgrips and plant feet while seated against backrest. ATVs and SXS are for off-road use only; never ride on paved surfaces or public roads. Always remember that riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix. Never engage in stunt driving. Avoid excessive speed and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Ride responsibly.

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www.CrossCountryPowersports.com Victory and Victory Motorcycles® are registered trademarks of Polaris Industries, Inc. Always wear a helmet, eye protection, and protective clothing and obey the speed limit. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol. ©2013 Polaris Industries Inc.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 and even “Superman” ice cream.

With its ample seating, especially during the better weather, the Stanton General Store has long been a favorite of motorcyclists, bicyclist and traveling groups enjoying the region.

ramBo’S geNeral Store MAIN ST, CALIFON, NJ 07830 908-832-2012 • RAMBOSCOUNTRYSTORE.COM Rambo’s still keeps that old-time ‘store’ feeling to it. The counters are original, as are the old wooden floors. This store was built

by Abraham Philhower in 1888, and it’s been in continuous operation ever since.

These days you can still find things to buy, antiques to be perused and some seriously great sandwiches too.

Page 21 In fact they have a list of Rambo’s Top Twelve to choose from.

Sticking with my Americana-mode of the day I chose the turkey club on rye toast. Plain, simple and delicious – it couldn’t be beat.

I took a seat at the one small indoor table and enjoyed my lunch washed down with a Wild Bill’s Blazing Black Cherry soda. Diabetics beware!

Rambo’s also has one of the best meat counters and butcher shops in the region – have lunch and then take dinner home with you.

Schooley’S mouNtaiN geNeral Store 250 SCHOOLEYS MOUNTAIN RD, SCHOOLEYS MOUNTAIN, NJ 07870 908-852-4943 • SCHOOLEYSMOUNTAINGENERALSTORE.COM

Located in Morris County, just south of Hackettstown, Schooley’s Mountain General Store is part grocery, part deli and, also, the local post office.

Built back in 1830, the store has seen much local history pass through its door. No less than four US presidents have been here – Presidents Grant and Harrison favored the local natural

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 22 springs and hotels that once flourished in this part of New Jersey and were regulars at the general store while in the region.

Their deli counter looked full, and the offerings delicious and, from the number of local worker’s trucks and vans in and out of the store, it is obviously a neighborhood favorite. Always trust local craftsman, trucker and police to know where to eat!

Schooley’s Mountain also has a great wooden porch; the perfect place for a cool drink on my Five Star General Stores ride this hot and muggy summer’s day.

allamuchy geNeral Store 2 JOHNSONBURG RD, ALLAMUCHY TOWNSHIP, NJ 07820 908-852-7004 • GENERALSTORECAFENJ.COM You will find this fourth of five stops just north of Interstate 80, off County Road 517.

This store takes the trophy for the oldest general store of this group with its history going back 187 years.

The local Star-Ledger newspaper has called this store one of the “Top 25 Places to go in NJ!” The Allamuchy General Store & Café also has won awards for the past half decade for the best sandwiches in both Morris & Sussex counties – by whom we are not sure - but they said that on their website and who would fib on the web?

I do know they have some serious food – some of the best in the region.

Their breakfast has some thirty-egg offerings and that is before you could see the pancakes and waffles!

A plethora of pizzas and burgers will appeal to any rider or group.

Being late in the day I opted for a simple ice cream cone and took another seat on another porch to watch the late afternoon traffic flow by on the country backroads.

They have seating inside as well as some tables on the porch and the roads to the north and west are some of the best in New Jersey.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 23

StillWater geNeral Store 12 MAIN ST., STILLWATER TOWNSHIP, NJ 07875 • 973-383-5650 With its old Texaco sign and rusting gas pump sitting outside the general store, there is plenty of yesteryear ambiance to be found in Stillwater.

Built in 1876 this building also houses a small local post office and has a deli-style counter where you can find a number of sandwiches, wraps, wings and pizza. You’ll also discover some groceries and a great collection of “Little Yellow Rubber Duckies” on display here.

The entire effect is almost more general casting than it is general store. Think “Nothing But Trouble” here.

The Stillwater General Store could personify the entire “Old General Store” experience – they serve a mean pizza and various sandwiches and have killer breakfast sandwiches. This is the place the locals flock to and, as we know, you should always trust the locals.

It is well worth it to stop in at Stillwater.

Enjoy your travels to these throwbacks to a simpler time. Order yourself a soda pop and sandwich, ice cream cone or malted, and set a spell while the world passes you by.

Our New Hosts Dan & Fawn Schneider Invite you to sample our home cookin’ 7 days a week at the World Famous Cedar Rapids

Take a ride on one of the Northeast’s Scenic Byways - Route 97 - 20 miles north of Port Jervis. Dine with your fellow riders on the Delaware River Enjoy our Expanded Canopied Decks Open 7 Days for Lunch and Dinner Member of

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www.cedarrapidsny.com

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 24

Bergen County Harley-Davidson presents

WE’RE OU TTA H ERE the NaNcy ShePherd houSe 618 SOUTH LOUDOUN ST., WINCHESTER, VA 22601 540-247-5073 • WWW.NANCYSHEPHERDHOUSE.COM ROOMS: $99/NIGHT FOR TWO (BREAKFAST ADDITIONAL) In the northern part of Virginia, not far south of the Mason–Dixon Line along the I81 corridor, you will find the city of Winchester. The downtown part of this town is both historic and well thought out.

It is very people friendly and in its center you will find the Pedestrian Mall, a traffic free part of town lined with interesting shops, points of interest and a good number of eclectic and delicious restaurants.

Just down from the Pedestrian Mall, on South Loudoun Street, you will find an inn that has been around for centuries and is now a fully licensed historic hotel, in one of several early federal period homes that once lined the streets of this historic town.

The Nancy Shepherd House Inn was built as a dwelling in the 1700s on the south end of Winchester’s main street, lot 213 on South Loudoun Street.

It was originally a single story home of log construction but over the years additions were made, including a grand staircase.

The property remained a thriving tavern until the war, but since Winchester repeatedly changed hands between Union and Confederate forces, the local economy was crushed and so was the tavern business. During the Civil War, the building was used as a rooming house for occupying soldiers of both sides, and also as a hospital for the injured from surrounding battles. By the end of the war the property was listed in city records as a “two story wooden tenement”. After its glorious pre-war days as an inn, the building began a slow process of deterioration as it changed owners over the years.

From the 1860s until its recent iteration, Robert Cochran’s old tavern remained a rooming house or multiunit apartment building. To this day, it has not been a single family dwelling since 1798.

The property was bought at public auction on the Winchester courthouse steps in early 1987 by Nancy Shepherd McLaughlin who realized that most of the building’s original fabric still lay intact under alu-

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads minum siding, dropped ceilings, drywall, and plywood & carpet floors. She decided that its preservation was critical and that it was too important to allow it to continue to deteriorate. Her mission was to bring the tavern back to life as a historic B&B inn, just as it had originally been during its grandest days between 1798-1861.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 25 We were immediately taken with the large and incredible variety of books throughout the Nancy Shepherd House. Also the great selection of musical instruments – all belonging to David - who played professionally for years.

Our room was more than relaxing and the bed was one of the finest and most comfortable we had slept on while traveling in ages.

Over the years David has constantly strived to upgrade without losing the historic feel and flavor of the inn. We think he has succeeded.

The Nancy Shepherd House Inn is certainly no ordinary “historic” inn or hotel. It is the real deal, a rare find anywhere, a true historic early Virginia tavern. It has been properly restored without undoing its “essence of old”, and is filled only with authentic early American furniture, and with real artifacts found on-site during the restoration.

With the Pedestrian Mall, just a few blocks away, and the many historic sites, Civil War battlefields and the miles of superb roads running around the region the city of Winchester and the Nancy Shepherd House is the perfect place to disappear to when it is time for you to say We’re Outta Here!

Nancy Shepherd McLaughlin, who passed in 1996, put her son David in charge of the restoration. David has had a life-long interest in the preservation of America’s early buildings. As the steward of the Nancy Shepherd House Inn, he has worked non-stop for twenty years making the old tavern suitable for a true historic bed & breakfast inn, undoing alterations and unsympathetic modernizations. He has brought it back to its early 19th century state, preserving everything that is original from the Robert Cochran period, and has done so without removing its essence of “old.”

We arrived on a torrential rain soaked day and were brought right in by David, who helped us to our room and made us as comfortable as possible.

As a motorcyclist himself, he was sympathetic to our sogginess and let us splay our gear around the downstairs to let it dry (we were the only ones there that night, so it made things easier)

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 26

hall’S homemade ice cream 861 RACCOON VALLEY RD, MILLERSTOWN, PA 717-589-3290 • WWW.HALLSICECREAM.COM While Brian was off exploring the Allegheny forests with the good people from Altrider, I decided to do what I do best - discover some excellent ice cream for you folks. Being that we were in the middle of prime farm country, and Amish at that, how hard could it be? Not only did I find some, I had a helluva good time getting there and back.

A bit of back story on the Hall family: Back in 1905 William J. Hall began selling milk from a metal can and ladle hauled to town by a horse-drawn buggy. Rumor has it that, after moving to Pleasant Home Farm a bit out of town, Hall purchased the last remaining cow in town. He then bought a specially designed wagon for his milk delivery. This wagon’s wheels turned completely under the front of the wagon, giving it no turn radius. The hanging spigoted metal can had a stirring rod to keep the milk from separating. This continued until 1916, when William’s health began failing and neighbors took over the delivery.

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As time went on, glass-bottled milk replaced the metal can, pasteurization was installed and, in 1947, the Halls were the first in the area to begin homogenizing milk. John Allen Hall began his ice cream production this year as well, having taken a short course at Penn State University. Fast-forward to 1994 and John Allen’s children took over the ice cream operations. It is one of Central PA’s last remaining family ice cream businesses.

With its growing popularity, Hall’s Ice Cream delivery spread and can now be found in restaurants, convenience stores and groceries as well as carnivals, festivals and special events. You can take a trip to the Ice Cream Parlor weekends year round and every day Memorial to Labor Day from afternoon on. Check their website for full hours.

Starting out after a great breakfast with friends and a short tour of the Piper Aviation Museum, I meandered

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 27 south through valleys and over mountains. The Alleghenies are some of the older mountains in this country so, while they might lack height, they certainly make up for it in the density of the forests. Should you decide to explore, there are many trails off the main roads. Just follow the signs and you should come out eventually.

I opted for pavement and certainly had some fine stretches to explore. Stopping for a bit in Bald Eagle State Park, I watched the bathers and boaters enjoying this beautiful summer day. Heading south a bit more, I started passing open fields, cows and red barns and knew I must be getting close. Crossing the Juniata River, I soon spied Hall’s Ice Cream/Farm and pulled into their small parking area about 1:45; just about right on time, as they would be opening at 2. The young man inside was nice enough to let me in a bit early, as the heat of the day’s sun was beginning to wear on me. The only thing that could fix that was a scoop or two of homemade ice cream.

Perusing the ice cream board, I had my choice of 12 premium flavors (meaning it contains 14% butterfat), some no sugar and lite flavors (like drinking decaf, if you ask me) and six premium honey flavors (with 8% PA preferred honey). I wished there were more people with me to taste all the flavors. As it was, I saw the sign for ‘kiddie’ size scoops after I had ordered (sure you did, Shira) my scoop each of root beer and honey cinnamon – separate cups, please. I had never seen root beer ice cream before and am sure it would make for a top-notch float or milk shake. But that would be super gluttonous, and I’d probably crash (no put intended)

from the sugar rush in about 10 minutes.

The root beer was different and very flavorful, but the honey cinnamon was over the top delicious. Rich beyond description, it truly melted in my mouth. I will have to search out Hall’s Ice Cream whenever I’m in central PA to get a tasting of their other honey flavors.

With my belly more than full, I made my way back to Millheim, happy with the day spent exploring and looking forward to my next discovery on Shira’s Ice Cream Run. Here’s a GPS loop from our Fall Fiesta in Shippensburg that makes a stop at Hall’s Ice Cream: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/k6klzo

MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 • www.BMWMotorcycles.com

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 28

Chasing the Backroads to the Summer Squeeze Rally

W

e had a friend asked us how we found time to get it all done - the stories, the travel, the searching out the destinations, locales and places of interest? Not to mention all that goes into actually putting this magazine together after the riding and exploration is done. Well, we told him it was easy; some research, planning, a true love of riding and a willingness to travel someplace a little different and the occasional bit of luck.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 29 Case in point was a little journey we did back in August to our own Backroads Summer Squeeze held at the Gray Ghost in West Dover, Vermont.

Columnist Mark Byers and she of the greatest hugs, his wife Betsy, came up to New Jersey and we would all do a bit of a ride north and then east into New England before the Squeeze.

They live down in southern Maryland so whenever they get the chance they’ll pack up one of their many bikes they harbor, and get onto the road.

Being that this loop would finish at this year’s Summer Squeeze Rally made it all the better.

They met us, and a few other riding friends, at the Chatterbox Drive-In on a picture perfect Thursday Bike Night.

Hearing about this incredible Thursday gathering and actually seeing it is a different thing and having the Batmobile in the middle of the restaurant didn’t hurt the first impression either.

What a great way to start the trip.

We took off early on a chilly Friday morning – in fact most of this journey would be done in more Fall Fiesta weather than Summer Squeeze temperatures.

In other words… it was just about flawless mercury-wise.

Our ride this day started from home base and brought us up through the north Jersey farmlands and quickly into the Empire State. From there we meandered north - cutting over the lower Shawangunks near Walker Valley and Ellenville.

We took a number of minor, but fun, roads to the reservoir and then headed north, running along the deep valleys that pass through the central Catskill Mountains.

Along the way we spied a number of odd statues in one lot. I had seen this artist’s work before, but the giant metal StarGate built from old auto parts really got my at-

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 30 tention and caused an immediate u-turn for that digital moment. How do we find these things for Backroads?

Well, sometimes we ride right into them.

We were glad to see that Prattville was making a strong comeback after the heavy devastation from Tropical Storm Irene a few years back and from there we used the Garmins to bring us along some roads that we had seemed to miss in the last 20 or so years doing this.

It just goes to show you that, no matter how long you ride, there will always be one more road out there to be discovered and ridden. I wanted to give Mark and Betsy a decent ride and for them to see a few things and enjoy what this part of New York, which they don’t get to ride all that often, had to offer, and I think we did just that - stopping to see the dam being reconstructed near Gilboa and the Petrified Forest fossils now on display near there.

We found a darling little lunch spot, 20 minutes or so out of Cooperstown.

Was Ardy’s Country Kitchen, in the hamlet of Worcester, good enough for a Great All American Diner Run? You betcha.

Cooperstown was not nearly as crowded as I thought it would be on a Friday in August and we slowed respectively and bowed as we rode by the Baseball Hall of Fame although, from a geographical perspective, the headwaters of the Susquehanna River, which starts its 414 mile journey here at the bottom of Lake Otsego, is impressive as well.

An hour or so later we were running along the side of the Erie Canal and then into the Adirondacks.

Right on schedule my preplanned paved route went gravel on us and then road construction made for another u-turn. Plan B always works and when it doesn’t Plan C & D are always waiting – even if I have no idea what they are or where they will bring us.

Stopping to get our bearing we had a guy come off his porch to give us directions. Very long a n d d r a w n o u t directions.

By evening we were deep into the mountains and pulled into the town of Thendara and the Van Auken’s Inne. This place has been taking care of travelers since 1891 and was our first night’s stop for this sojourn.

The Inne has a bar and restaurant so, once parked for the evening we had no reason to jump back on the bikes.

A good thing as the chilly temperatures were now joined with a steady chilly rain.

We hoped for a more sunny disposition for Saturday’s ride east.

The rain had stopped by morning, but the clouds and cool temperatures remained.

In fact it was the first time I had seen my breath since that last wretched winter and the first time I had ever seen it in August – at least here in the United States. I put my Gerbings on, but held off on actually plugging it in.

We headed along a few backroads from Old Forge to Inlet – home of the Red Dog Tavern and Armageddon 10 Hot Wings – the hottest wings on Planet Earth and featured in the very first issue of Backroads some 20 years back.

From there we headed north, making a semi-quick stop at the Adirondack Museum – always worth a visit while in the regions and then to Long Lake for breakfast.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 31 We headed east on 28A till CR 84 and not long afterward we rode over the headwaters of the Hudson River and over the Northway. We brought our friends to Gokey’s General Store –which has a little bit of everything.

For some reason we all ended up buying slingshots. It must be New York’s SAFE Act playing with our heads. Odd that I can buy an AR-15 and a Glock in New Jersey, but not a sling shot. Being a “Tree Top Flyer” I packed them away.

From here we picked up County Road 4, one of the finest motorcycle roads in this area, and then onto Lake Champlain and the town of Essex where we crossed over the lake by ferry.

In Vermont we cut eastward making a few stops along the way – one being the Round Church in Richmond.

The idea of the Round Church is that the devil could not hide where there are no corners.

It seemed to work this day, as when we had visited here years back, the church was peaceful and pleasant. We were inspired when Betsy stepped up to the raised podium.

“Let us all say halleluiah, brothers and sisters!”

We crossed over the Connecticut River and into New Hampshire stopping for some seriously good pizza (& ice cream) before continuing to Littleton, New Hampshire for the night. We had made reservations at the Thayer Hotel, a historic hotel that opened its doors in 1850. The town was delightful too - with its curbside pianos, eclectic shops and its famed Chutters Store with the world’s longest candy counter. Seriously – if it is candy it is somewhere in Chutters.

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 32

We strolled the town and crossed the pedestrian covered bridge over the Ammonoosuc River before stopping in at the local riverside brewery, Schilling Beer, and then retreating back to the hotel for a superb dinner and an early night under the hopefully clearing New Hampshire skies.

We got washed again that night, but the early Sunday radar showed the rains moving out of the White Mountains, but that the New York City area was getting slammed.

This is where most of our people would be traveling from and we hoped they got up and out and ahead of the green and yellow radar blobs that were rolling into southern New York and northern New Jersey.

Our ride would spin down through the western side of the “Live Free or Die” state through Franconia Notch and down towards Lincoln.

It was right along this road that, in 1961, Barney and Betty Hill were allegedly abducted, having one of the first modern day Close Encounters of the Third Kind in the United States.

You may scoff but Happy and Pepe were really excited and even the state of New Hampshire must believe as they have erected a historical marker near the spot. Even odder is the Irving fuel station, right down the road, that has embraced the abduction story and has their store peppered with UFO, alien, film and abduction paraphernalia.

Our side of the group was having fun with it, but our token Navy Flight Engineer (Mark) scoffed and he and Betsy waited on his bike for us.

He’s not getting on the Mother Ship when it gets here.

He later reneged his scoffing, claiming friendship with off-worlders.

The rain, that had been just a slight pest these last few days, crept up on us in the higher elevations of the White Mountains but by the time we dropped down to the Connecticut River the skies lightened and blue sky began to appear here and there.

We found an outstanding diner in Lebanon, New Hampshire named Four Aces – another future Great

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All American Diner Run for sure - and then slipped into Vermont across a covered bridge, the first of three we would cross this day.

We were going to pass the entrance to Mount Ascutney, so we took the auto road up. They hold races here each year and we can understand why.

Soon we were heading west through the mountains to Route 100 and the Gray Ghost Inn, in West Dover. We had folks here and at the Kitzhoff Inn for the Summer Squeeze.

We arrived by the mid-afternoon and had that great pleasure of watching folks roll up, park their bikes and give that “I have been riding all day” stretch.

Life was good in West Dover, Vermont this day.

Perfect riding weather rolled in over night and bright sun, puffy clouds and cool temperatures still ruled the land.

We had a few routes set out for people that were interested and many were. One was a Mysterious America Ride I called “There Goes Bronson.”

Basically a 200 plus mile ride up and around Vermont, running up and down Mount Ascutney and then to Mr. Bronson.

Another ride went to the distillery at Quechee Gorge and a third was to go through the mountains and to The Marina restaurant in Brattleboro.

This was the shortest and would have us back early in the afternoon, except the entire route grenaded between off-road, gravel, construction and closed roads.

We went to Plan See – see where we ended up.

I took point and vectored west and eventually up Mount Equinox.

Page 33

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 34

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They have just finished the Saint Bruno Scenic Viewing Center atop the peak and the new place is beautiful with most of it bringing visitors into the life of the Carthusian Monks and their silent existence in the mountainside monastery.

We spent some time atop the summit and then found lunch a bit south of Route 7A. Continuing south we rode into Massachusetts and then east on the Mohawk Trail and its wondrous miles.

It was dessert time so we rode to Shelbourne Falls in search of ice cream, glacial potholes and the famed Bridge of Flowers – all of which we found in this small town. Route 8A brought us back into Vermont and the Gray Ghost.

We had dinner planned for that night and Jesse, Carina, Tamara and crew did their usual superb job. We had an after dinner show as our friend Tony Lisanti had gotten tagged to do the Ice Bucket Challenge for ALS. It was a chilly evening for Tony, but he survived and we raised a bundle of cash for him. Thank you all who helped out.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 35

We weren’t done for the night by a long shot as it was Movie Night at the Gray Ghost and we had a viewing of ‘Why We Ride’ – the fantastic documentary about, well, why we ride!

It was the first and only time Shira and I had seen the kids quiet for more than a minute.

We had gotten reports on most of the rides, with some good and some bad, and some others who went to the Precision Museum for the day.

The next day the two of us had planned to split up with Shira hitting the Distillery and I heading out to find Mr. Bronson.

As luck would have it my friend Helene wanted to tag along with me on this day’s ride.

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Helene is one of those friends and riders that I never get to ride with nearly enough. We are both on the same page as far as pace, daring, common disrespect for local traffic ordinances and bad luck as roads go – so riding with her is always a pleasure.

We were approached by some others to ride along but kinda waved them off as we needed to get photographs for the magazine and didn’t want to slow anyone down.

Right……

We took off east, just south of the Gray Ghost and in about 20 or so miles got onto the unpaved roads of Vermont. Yeah for us.

In truth these road, when not soaked, are superb and we all agreed they were easier and faster than some of the badly chopped macadam Vermont considers paved in some regions.

Invariably my route slid off where I thought we needed to be and it was not long before our road turned to deeper gravel and then large rocks and mud.

The Backroads’ goat path and bad luck road had been found.

We gave it a half-assed attempt – both of us blaming the others luck for getting us into this situation; but soon motored back out to more civilized dirt.

I had ridden up Ascutney a few days previous, but Helene had never been there so we made the assent.

We chatted with the ranger at the gatehouse for a bit and then headed up.

Make a note that it is a good idea to actually get out of sight of the ranger before trying to set a “better time” riding up this fame timed rally roadway.

The view this day was legendary and you could see well into New Hampshire to the east and even New York to the west.

Back at ground level we sped toward the town of West Windsor and our date with Mr. Bronson. We called this part of the ride “There Goes Bronson,” playing on the 1960’s television show “Then Came Bronson” – a show I dare say got many of us onto motorcycles and traveling.

In actuality it was the final resting place of famed actor Charles Bronson who passed away in 2003, at the age of 82.

Page 36 Bronson had a beloved farm near this place and his grave lies with one of the most magnificent view I have ever seen from a cemetery.

Atop the grave blanket there is a poem by Mary Elizabeth Frye.

Do not stand at my grave and weep, I am not there; I do not sleep.

I am a thousand winds that blow, I am the diamond glints on snow, I am the sun on ripened grain, I am the gentle autumn rain.

When you awaken in the morning’s hush I am the swift uplifting rush Of quiet birds in circling flight.

I am the soft starlight at night.

Do not stand at my grave and cry, I am not there; I did not die.

Very lovely and fitting.

After that, with great deft and skill, I immediately lost the “right there on the damn screen” Garmin route and, coming up to Route 4, Helene and I decided to head to Quechee Gorge to see if we could find Shira and her crew – which we did.

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS We visited the Vermont Distillery and the Cabot Cheese store before grabbing lunch at the Quechee Diner.

Not wanting to slow down Shira’s group after lunch Helene and I quickly mounted up and went back in search of our twistalicious route to the Rochester Café and dessert.

Mount Bethel Road, heading into Rochester is always a blast, as is the café maple delights.

By this time it was getting later in the afternoon so we meandered down Route 100, taking advantage of Vermont’s law allowing for passing on the double yellow line – when prudent – and making short work of the eighty or so miles south to the Gray Ghost.

Dinner was spread out between a couple of local restaurants but the later part of the evening found most down at Carina’s large fire pit that was blazing.

This was our last night of the Summer Squeeze and it did a soul good to see all the people sitting around the fire and to hear the constant laughter coming from the group.

I hit the sack and made it an early night and got ready for the ride back home the next day.

After another great breakfast from the Ghost (Thank you Jesse for the NJ pancake!) folks started packing up with many continuing on for extended two –wheel adventure while others aimed their bikes towards home.

We took a small group into Massachusetts and a tour

of the Mustang Seat Factory in Three Rivers.

It was a super tour and amazing to see how a great saddle is created.

Our route then sped (Well, not through the city of

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 37

Springfield) west stopping for a filling and delicious lunch in the town of Riverton at a place called Sweet Pea’s.

Except for Springfield the roads were awesome and twisty and brought us to the Hudson River and the Bear Mountain Bridge by early evening. From the Hudson the Byers and we scooted through the familiar backroads of Harriman State Park, past the Renaissance Faire and into Jersey where it was a quick romp down County Road 519 to Backroads Central.

Mission completed.

We had covered some 1,400 fun and interesting miles.

Found aliens and UFO encounters, historic inns, odd churches, ferry crossings, excellent diners and, of course, Mr. Bronson.

Our Backroads Spring Break was one of the best ever and the tour of the Mustang factory was the icing on the cake.

We came home with enough pictures and info to fill a couple of magazines and that, kids, is how it is done.

See you on the road.

Ardy’s Country Kitchen • 267 Main St, Worcester, NY • 607-397-4070 Thayers Inn • 111 Main St, Littleton, NH 800-634-8179 • www.ThayersInn.com Four Aces Diner • 23 Bridge St, Lebanon, NH • 603-298-5515 • www.4AcesDiner.com Van Auken’s Inne • 108 Forge St, Old Forge, NY • 315-369-3033 • www.VanAukensInne.com

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 38

Ridden and Reviewed

2014 BMW F800 GS

A number of years back I spent a number of weeks on the Iberian peninsula riding a BMW F800 ST. I clearly remember making the statement that when, not if, BMW made a GS version of the 800 I would be there in a second.

Time moved on and indeed BMW did bring out not one, but two versions of this bike in Gelande Strasse motif.

One 800 and another, slightly more streetish, 650 version.

The 650 is still an 800cc machine – don’t ask.

Shira has had this F650 GS for a number of years now and we both find it a fine bike, but for me I would need something a bit more substantial and a tad larger all around.

Enter the common era year of 2014 and BMW introduces upgraded versions of the medium sized GS. A new 700 and two 800s – a standard GS and Adventure version.

We have had the standard version F800 GS for a while now on long term test and it is just about everything I had hoped for years back in Spain.

Powered by a crisp 798cc that cranks out a respectable 85 horsepower at 7,500 rpm that offer some serious low-end torque as well.

The 2014 F800 GS also has a throaty exhaust bark note with the bike’s running two-into-one exhaust, which is the exact same as Shira’s 650. Both machines are distinct with their tone, but side by side the 800 is a bit more offensive sound-wise. The 6-speed transmission was very slick and any missed gears were more often rider laziness than the 800 GS. The F800 GS weighs in at around 455 pounds and has a few cosmetic upgrades for this year including new side trim, a fresh intake snorkel, a modified upper mudguard and a new windshield.

In comparison the R1200 GS weighs in at nearly 555 lbs.

The standard machine has a seat height of 34.6 but a lowered suspension is now available as an option for the F800 GS, too. Working with the available lower seat, this means it is possible to create a seat height of 32.3 inches allowing for many more inseam challenged riders to enjoy this machine.

The stock suspension, with ESA, easily gobbled up the light trails available in and around the Back-

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 roads and northeast area and riders that have taken this bike in more aggressive terrain in the southwest report that the front and rear suspension gobbles up all but the most tenacious trails and terrain.

The F800 GS comes with a dual disc brake set-up running dual piston calipers and good-sized 300mm rotors up front and a 265mm rotor in the rear.

The F800 GS runs a 21-inch front wheel and a 17-inch rear and ours was shod with Michelin Anakee 2 tires – great for light trails, fire roads and paved miles.

Like all the other F-machines the GS does not have a shaft, but utilizes a chain for final drive and like the others in the Fseries the fuel cell is under the seat and is filled on the right side of the bike with a 4.2 gallon, with approximately 1.0 gallon, in reserve allowing for 200+ miles between fuel stops.

The gauges are much like the old F650 GS, but they have made a slight adjustment, or face change to the fuel readout. The old one, annoyingly, would not budge until about halfway empty then begin a steady plummet.

BMW’s quick and brilliant fix was to just have the screen say more than half till that point. Just a simple façade change. It works for me.

On the road the bike’s snappy powerplant works well in both urban and backroad bombing, although the stock saddle and windscreen would be gone, replaced by something aftermarket, in a very short time.

As with most BMW’s luggage is available but our test ride came without bags, limiting us on longer tours unless we used strap on aftermarket luggage, of which there is much to choose.

Page 39 Hot on the heels of this release was the new F800 GS Adventurer.

We found the standard F800 GS to be a superb all-around machine – light, nimble, powerful enough for just about any calling and - with the right aftermarket support - a true day to day explorer/adventurer/ touring machine.

When it comes time to retire my 1200 I am thinking bigger is not always better and an 800 might be in my future.

The 2014 comes in Kalamata metallic (our favorite), Cordoba blue (not so much), Alpine white (acceptable) and lists for $12,090.

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 40

Top Ten Roads for Chasing the Colors of Fall (Northeast version 1.0) kay, is there really any “Top Ten” when it comes to superb destinations, great roads and serious views? We think not.

But, we can offer you some suggestions and hope that, along the way, you find even better pieces of pavement.

Don’t feel shy about sharing with us, and your fellow readers.

Still, not just any route or town can find itself on this list. We do have some standards and even some newly created words to work with here.

Rideability. Awesomeness. Curveitudity. Policelessness. Restaurantlicousness. And, of course- Backroadiness.

Got them… good, there will be a test.

Don’t take this as a countdown to the best – as they are all good. All we ask is that you get out this month and ride – we fear another blast from Old Man Winter will soon be our way!

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

#1 • Route 10 - Central NY Starting near Route 17 and heading north this route crosses the Catskills, the Leatherstocking region and ends deep in the Adirondacks, bisecting most of the Empire State and finally ending some 155 miles later. Along the way you’ll pass along small villages, some larger cities and miles of superb riding and cover a wide swath of New York State.

Page 41 Just south of Route 218 you will find one of the best barbeques in the northeast at The Barnstormer right on Highway 9 in Fort Montgomery.

Enjoy the view.

#4 • Routes 678 & 675 Washington State Forest northern Virginia

For many reasons, one being Backroads Central is located on this road; we love this piece of asphalt. It combines great curves, a wonderful mix of farmlands, horse and other such creatures. Beautiful lakes - especially Swartswood where you will find the picture perfect Boat House Restaurant – a wonderful fall foliage dining spot- especially out on the lakeside patio.

Say hi to Kathy while you’re there, as the Boat House loves when riders drop by.

Also known as Fort Valley Road this delicious romp starts in the north off of Ol’ 55 (Hello Tom Waits!) and has sometimes been called a “valley within a valley.” Along the way there are plenty of places to stop and explore including the Elizabeth Furnace Recreational Area.

Route 678 ends but there are a number of twisty and hilly options available, the choice is yours east or west, including Camp Roosevelt, the site of the first Civilian Conservation Camp in the nation, but we would recommend heading to New Market and the Southern Kitchen Restaurant – a place well known for their fried chicken! Who would want to miss their fried chicken?

#3 • Storm King Mountain - NY

#5 • Route 52 and 97 Loop - NY

#2 • CR 521 from Hope NJ to Port Jervis NY

Also known as Route 218 this high road hugs the mountain for which it is named in a very tight and snakey fashion. Yes, that is a wordsnakey (look it up).

Along its much too short route you will find West Point and the village of Cornwall. This area once had a tyrannical police chief, but he has since retired and become much more mellow and often can be found bombing the roads he once swore to protect.

The road itself oozes curveitudity and the views from high above the river to the Hudson Valley below are spectacular anytime of year, but even more so during the fall season.

It would be easy to just mention the Hawks Nest and be done with it, but this part of the Mongaup Valley, Catskills and the Shawangunks have so much to offer. So let’s link up two great roads into one fantastic day’s ride.

Starting at the Hudson River Route 52 rolls west through parts of the Hudson and Walker Valley before rising high above the route of the old D & H Canal. Atop these peaks you can literally see for miles and hang gliders are a frequent sight here.

The road continues along the lower Catskills and then through towns like Jeffersonville before riding by the historic stone bridge, built in 1873, and then finally linking into Route 97 near Narrowsburg. From here you’ll head

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 42 south and, eventually, through the famed Hawks Nest before the route ends in Port Jervis. Route 97 has a few good restaurants along the way including Cedar Rapids and the River Runner’s Roost. Before you get to Port Jervis, swing up to Elks-Brox Memorial Park for a spectacular view.

#6 • Route 213 - Maryland Running through the spine of the eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay we have always enjoyed this ride.

– part of Camel’s Hump State Park. The road here can be steep in some places with a grade of 15% and is fun to ride both ways at least multiple times!

The pullout on top is a favorite with regional and touring motorcyclists.

While in this part of Vermont and looking for an overnight stay we’d highly recommend the very rider-friendly Crossroads B & B on Route 7 – find them at http://crossroadsbb.net.

#8 • The Kancamagus Highway – NH This highway, part of Route 112, from Lincoln to Conway is some 34.5 miles of pure, unadulterated riding fun. This road, also known as “The Kanc,” is often misspelled and mis-pronounced Kangamangus Highway, Kangumangus Hiway or Kancamangus Highway.

The correct way to pronounce Kancamagus is “Kank-ah-mah-gus.”

If you’re going to ride it pronounce it correctly. Like Backroadiness.

Although not as mountainous or as forested as some of the other routes in this Top Ten list, there is still something about heading down to the Bay when, as Jimmy Buffett sang, the coast is clear that appeals to us. The Bay has a more laid back feeling and the crispness and salt in the breeze, without the humidity, somehow makes us more appreciative of what we have.

You will also find plenty of crabs and oysters down along this route – so enjoy and eat more than your fill!

#7 • Route 17 – Vermont Commonly called the Appalachian Gap this 40-mile route runs from Lake Champlain, near Chimney Point, to Route 100 in Waitsfield. It is fun all the way, but particularly enjoyable atop the peaks of the Green Mountains.

It crests the mountains just north of Mount Ellen at the Appalachian Gap

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 The Kancamagus Scenic Byway takes you along a path cut through the White Mountain National Forest with breathtaking views of the White Mountains, the Swift River, waterfalls and gorges made even more spectacular by the colors of the season.

The Kanc takes you to an elevation of just under 3,000 feet at its highest point at Kancamagus Pass on the flank of Mt. Kancamagus near Lincoln, New Hampshire.

Can we all say that name correctly now? Good.

You will find much to do on both sides of The Kanc as well as it being prime Moose-watching along its miles; so ride carefully especially at dawn or dusk.

In Center Conway you should try to visit Whitehorse Gear, purveyors of all things cool and motorcyclish, as their warehouse is open to visitors and walking around this place is a singular motorcycling treat.

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#9 • Route 144 – Pennsylvania From US 6 in the north to its terminus near I-80 to the south it’s a full 109 miles of Allegheny riding pleasure. This road is also known as High Plateau Scenic Byway and is listed as a scenic byway by the chiefs in Harrisburg.

We think now being part of this Top Ten list is equally important.

We have ridden this route many times and are always drawn back to it.

This part of the Keystone state is rugged and wild and it is not unusual to see all sort of wildlife along its miles including bear, deer and elk.

Elk are especially cool.

Route 144 passes through the small town of Renovo. Here you will find Yesterday’s Restaurant, well worth the stop for a quick bite to eat.

Looking for more autumn magic?

Well, just 6 miles east of this town, off of Route 120 on Hyner Run Road, you can ride to the top of Hyner State Park with the most magnificent fall foliage view in Pennsylvania. Period.

Trust us. We’re professionals and you can’t do this at home.

#10 • You tell us We know, you know, that we know that you know of, and are hiding, the perfect fall foliage ride. So…give it up!

Let us know your favorite “Chasing the Colors” ride. We are all looking for that next fantastic curve, the next superb restaurant and that next great riding adventure!

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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Some Key West in the

Keystone State Erie, Pennsylvania words + images: Pamela Collins Lemon, tangerine, raspberry…the sky above the watery horizon melted slowly from one sherbet-hued color to another. The deep tan sand swirled around our boots while the strong gray waves rumbled to shore. We watched, wind-blown and mesmerized. Gradually, nature’s neon-light show faded into its final dim-bulb curtain call. We returned to our motorcycles, relaxed from viewing this sigh-inducing sunset worthy of any tropical isle. But this wasn’t the tropics.

Welcome to Erie, Pennsylvania. Residing atop the state’s northwest corner alongside its namesake Great Lake, Erie injects the Keystone State with a little Key West seafaring flavor. It has the deep sand, deep waters, pirates, shipwrecks, natural beauty, waterbased wars, and riotous weather of the country’s southernmost tip, sans Jimmy Buffet, margaritas and hibiscus patterned shirts.

This variety makes Erie a perfect motorcyclist getaway. Like a diner combo plate, it presents a variety of indulgences—the city seasons its nautical vibe with scenic shoreline riding, wineries, maritime adventures and a wide variety of things to both urban

and rural. But all these side dishes pale in comparison to the main course— the lake itself.

Whereas Pennsylvania’s typical landscape offers farms, wilderness and Appalachian mountains, riding toward Erie sees the familiar melt away. The land flattens, the farms feature vineyards, and then Lake Erie laps into view, huge and ocean-like, with no “other side” in sight. Though technically the shallowest and smallest Great Lake by volume, it still boasts an average depth of 62 feet. It sits 57 miles wide, with its narrowest point being only 22 miles across, and is 220 miles from end to end.

It also bears the dubious title of possessing the greatest number of shipwrecks in the world—420 per square mile—even more than in the Bermuda Triangle.

Whether a landlubber or a water lover, there’s no escaping the magnetic draw of the area’s watery centerpiece. In the downtown, the lake and lakefront function as a bustling hub of activity worth exploring. Waterside hotels and restaurants with outdoor dining decorate the shoreline providing a pleasant area to stroll and enjoy the lake view. In the

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 45

midst of this rises Erie’s Bicentennial Tower (built in 1995 to commemorate the city’s 200th birthday), where elevators take passengers 187 feet up to a deck offering stunning views of the lake, the famous Presque Isle and its bay, as well as the Erie skyline. The vantage point gives a 360-degree panoramic gift to the viewer.

Looking eastward from the tower one might notice some large multi-masted sailing ships floating in the harbor, spider web-like rigging running bow to stern. Ride your bikes along the short distance on Front Street to experience the famous U.S. Flagship Brig Niagara at the fascinating Erie Maritime Museum.

Erie serves its nautical flavors with a side dish of stormy history. This important seaport has seen its action-hero’s share of troubles throughout its lifetime, and the Brig Niagara occupies one of its most compelling chapters.

“Don’t give up the ship.” Those famous words echo while walking along the wooden decking of the Flagship Niagara. The Erie Maritime Museum makes real the fascinating story of the War of 1812, narrating a history about life during that period, and about a war many text books barely mention.

Cannons, crews, sails, rigging all seem real as the tour guides explain the mechanics of big ships and strategy of war on water. The Brig Niagara gained fame when Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry transferred to it from his original flagship, the Lawrence, after it suffered too much damage in the Battle of Lake Erie. He and his crews then sailed the Niagara to a stunning victory over the British Fleet that September 10, 1813, immortalized by those famous words “we have met the enemy and they are ours.” This important battle gave the United States control of the Upper Great Lakes during the War of 1812 and secured further American expansion into the Old Northwest.

Now reconstructed, the Brig Niagara can be found at the Maritime Museum when she’s not visiting other ports.

Those seeking nature and the true personality of Lake Erie should ride west from downtown to another famous location— Presque Isle State Park. 3,200 sandy acres comprise this peninsula that juts into Lake Erie, creating the wide and deep harbor of Presque Isle Bay. This area contains a greater number of Pennsylvania’s endangered, threatened and rare species than any other area of comparable size in the state and serves as the Keystone State’s only “seashore.”

A roughly 14-mile long paved road winds you throughout the park, with plenty of stopovers to take in the astounding lake views. Should you want to take a break from the motorcycle, feel free to rent kayaks, bicycles, take a stroll along the various trails, opt for a guided boat cruise, or enjoy a picnic overlooking the water. These aren’t rocky beaches along this bay…the sand rivals that of any traditional “beach” and if palm trees grew here you’d think this could be the tropics. Sunset

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kAWASAkI CARES: Always wear a helmet, eye protection and proper apparel. Never operate under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Adhere to the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual. ©2012 Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A.

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watching comes highly recommended.

Presque Isle’s entrance features the Tom Ridge Environmental Center, a newer attraction with a 75-foot observation tower full of educational information about this very special point in Pennsylvania. If you seek bigger thrills, stroll across the street to Waldemeer Amusement and Water Park, a local landmark and nostalgic blast from the past.

If you tire of the water views, Erie offers other nearby activities, too. The Erie Zoo for walking on the wild side, Presque Isle Downs and Casino to try your luck, the lake Erie Speedway for a go-fast fix, or downtown strolling and shopping.

But if the call of two wheels tugs too strongly, then saddle up and head east for another famous Erie experience. Point the bikes toward the town of North East, following Route 5. As you motor along on what is also called the Great Lakes Seaway Trail and a designated “America’s Byway,” you’ll ride right into Lake Erie Wine Country. Between Harborcreek, Pennsylvania and Silver Creek, New York lies the largest grape-growing region east of the Rockies. This 50-mile stretch encompasses about 30,000

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YAMA-HOTLINE • 732-776-5514 1207 Rte 35 South • Neptune, NJ • www.Stumpys.com Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motoryclce Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800446-9227. ©2014 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 contiguous acres of vineyards and 24 wineries. They all put out their welcome mats for visitors to sample, swirl and swish their wares. Along the way you’ll witness a gorgeous combination of lake and vineyard views, punctuated with the occasional old-fashioned small town.

So if a beachside getaway ranks high on your list, but time doesn’t afford riding to Florida or jetting to the Caribbean, point your handlebars toward northwest Pennsylvania. Whether scoping out its seafaring history, enjoying its vino, and squishing your toes in its sand, Erie offers riders a variety of things to do…and some unforgettable sunsets to boot.

RESOURCES WWW.PORTERIE.ORG/TOURISM/

ERIE MARITIME MUSEUM 150 EAST FRONT ST, ERIE, PA THRU OCTOBER: MON-SAT 9AM-5PM • SUN NOON-5PM NOVEMBER THRU MARCH: THUR-SAT 9AM-5PM ADULT ADMISSION: $10 • CHILDREN: $5 WWW.FLAGSHIPNIAGARA.ORG/

PRESQUE ISLE STATE PARK 301 PENINSULA DRIVE, ERIE, PA TOM RIDGE ENVIRONMENTAL CENTER FREE ADMISSION OPEN YEAR ROUND WITH EXCEPTIONS 10AM-6PM WWW.PRESQUEISLE.ORG

ERIE ZOO 423 W 38TH ST, ERIE, PA OPEN MARCH-NOVEMBER 10AM-5PM; SUNDAY 10AM-6PM $8.50 ADULT; $5 CHILDREN WWW.ERIEZOO.ORG

Page 47

TRIUMPH OFFERS DAYTONA 675R ESLICK EDITION MOTORCYCLE TO COMMEMORATE HISTORIC DAYTONA 200 WIN Triumph is celebrating its historic Daytona 200 win with Danny Eslick and the #69 Riders Discount Racing team by offering 47 custom motorcycles accessorized for track day riding. Each motorcycle is instantly recognizable with commemorative paint and graphics and features performance accessories that are identical to those used on the race-winning bike.

Available exclusively through Triumph dealers in the United States and Canada, Riders Discount is offering 47 of these custom motorcycles to commemorate each year since Triumph last won the Daytona 200 with Gary Nixon in 1967. Each 675R Eslick Edition motorcycle is individually numbered, hand signed by Danny Eslick, customized with a combination of Triumph Genuine Accessories and hand selected aftermarket accessories, and comes with a signed Certificate of Authenticity. The custom paint features the authentic Riders Discount Racing and AMA Pro Road Racing sponsor decals as used on the Daytona 200-winning bike. Standard accessories include Attack Performance rear sets, Renthal grips and sprockets, as well as a 520 DID ERV3 gold chain. Also included are many Triumph Genuine Accessories, which include Lower Chain Guard, Red Anodized Chain Adjustment Blocks, Paddock Stand Bobbins, Engine Cover Kit, Seat Cowl Kit, Billet Oil Filler Cap and Oil Dipstick which are pre-drilled to be safety wired for track day and race riding. An optional Performance Package is available only with the purchase of a 2014 Daytona 675R Eslick Edition motorcycle. MSRP and availability will be announced at a later date.

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Page 48

Appalachian Elation

Say “motorcycle bucket list” and what you immediately think of is Pacific Coastal 1, Monument Valley, maybe the Cabot Trail and most likely a trans-America crossing to include what’s left of Route 66.

Also on your list is probably the Blue Ridge Parkway and Deal’s Gap, aka Tail of the Dragon. Nowhere else has a road like this been so monetized. In the last 10 years, since I first came to this motorcycle hangout the place has doubled in size. There’s always been a motel there, but the burger and fries eatery and souvenir store expanded. There’s a 7-foot dragon sculpture.

There are four photography stations on this 11-mile stretch of road that borders North Carolina and Tennessee. These stations

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

words + images: Victor Cruz snap your picture for online sale. Clubs come here in droves. While you can certainly drag your saddlebag on a banked uphill curve, the heavy traffic can make Route 129 a slow-going churn. Nearby is Cherohala Skyway, not nearly as crowded. It’s close enough to northern Georgia, where our true bucket list story begins.

We were lucky. A friend had moved his family along with his three motorcycles – a BMW 650GS, a Ducati 900 and a BMW R1150S, to Atlanta. Direct flights from Boston leave with shuttle service frequency and in no time we were in the Peach State. Here the soil is a rich red loam also capable of growing peanuts, Vidalia onions, cotton and pecans. It also grows extremely friendly people who don’t know the meaning of the word “stranger.” Once in the country, we were expecting banjo playing, porch rockers and corncob pipes. Instead we got wine bars, swank restaurants, fast cars and pretty women. The Georgia towns of Ellijay and Dahlonega were nice surprises that offered plenty of good cuisine choices. You want to try the trout and catfish. We were head’n to the mountains and while it was 93-degrees in Hotlanta, at 4,000 feet the temps are much cooler. Tin roofs on many of the homes tell you lots of hail falls this way.

Our home base was the newly renovated motorcycle lodge and campground Two Wheels of Suches, GA. (www.twowheelsofsuches.com) Bill Johnston the new owner was on hand to tell us about the roads and his plans. The restaurant onsite has limited hours. You’re pretty much in the middle of nowhere, which is where you want to be.

Best part about Suches? The commercialfree serpentine roads from any direction you

BACKROADS TURNS 20 Join us as we celebrate 20 years of Backroads magic.

We’ll be heading out with Adriatic MotoTours on their Romania to Istanbul Adventure.

From bustling Bucharest to picturesque rural villages seemingly lost in time, all the

way down to oriental Istanbul and the scenic Black Sea Coast, there is something for the sightseer in everyone. Riding two of Europe’s best roads - the majestic Carpathian Mountains’ Transfagarasan Road and the equally challenging Transalpina - and then snaking through the astonishing Rodophe Mountains and Greece all the way to Turkey.

June 13-28, 2015 Tour starts/ends: Bucharest, Romania www.adriaticmototours.com

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

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choose. North on the exceptional Route 60 will take you to Tellico Plains through Ducktown into Tennessee and the start of the famous Cherohala Skyway in the Cherokee National Forest. We left early and didn’t see any cars for miles.

The roads never stop curving. Turnouts allow for stops to catch a good view. Lacking any prolonged deep freezes, the road conditions are perfect, never any potholes. At the end of the Skyway you turn north and Deals Gap is a short hop into thickening traffic. (Best to go during a week day.)

We took a break to hydrate, check out The Tree of Shame, and buy dragon stickers for our helmets. We rode it both ways then jumped on Route 28 south to Fontana Village for eats at the Wildwood Grill.

More corkscrew roads greeted us next day. From Two Wheels turn left then a quick right to Wolf Pen Gap. In Vermont, the roads follow rivers but here engineers built roads to traverse mountains making them highly technical. They just keep coming and coming at you. Wolf Pen follows a northeasterly direction all the way to the summit road of Brasstown Bald Mountain

at 4,784 feet where it makes its own foggy weather in the Chattahoochee Forest. We doubled-back from there to ride the Richard B. Russell Scenic Hwy. Again, commercial-free empty. It was like riding on the back of a python.

This drops you into the Bavarian town of Helen, which looks like a movie set. White school buses stacked with inflatable donuts brought tubers up and down a nearby river. Staying in our northeasterly direction we zoomed past Tiger and Clayton and crossed over to the haute town of Highland, NC, where we tried shopping for gifts for our wives. We stepped into a boutique that served orange juice in wine glasses then walked out after choking on the prices. We almost found something to eat when our tour leader told us the next stop would be an all-you-can-eat feast in Dillard.

You feel like a stuffed pig when you drag yourself out. Take-out boxes from there would serve for dinner that night. Two Wheels offers a central location to great riding but you need to plan your meals in advance. They only serve dinner on Friday nights. (That may change.)

The combination of technical roads, low traffic, quaint towns, and friendly people makes this corner of the country a special place worth repeat visits.

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OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 50 PRODuCt REvIEw

RANgER VENT TECH jACkET & RANgER OVERPANTS Over the last few seasons I have been wearing Olympia’s AST Jacket – both in a light gray and Hi-Viz. I preferred the ¾ look and feel and the vents were more than adequate up to ridiculous temps. Still, with all things, time takes it toll and over the miles we have straps snap and tears appear – more to my abuse than any construction flaw. The folks at Olympia are always listening to their customers, finding their need and improving already superb riding gear.

Thus the new Ranger Vent Tech Jacket – which replaces the older AST. Like the previous AST the Ranger utilizes a layering technique that allows the jacket to be used for the entire riding season or year round if you live in San Diego with perfect yearlong weather (dem bastards).

The main jacket is created with a coated 500 and 2000 D Cordura shell plus an interior waterproof/breathable seam sealed membrane to tackle wet weather rides. Additional features include a stretch knit hood with a rubberized Aqua Barrier and neck gator detail concealed under the collar - awesome for those chilly and wet days allowing no water down the back of your neck.

The Ranger has five water-tight pockets that are easily accessible and the back pocket can hold all sorts of items.

In the evening and low-light conditions the 3M Scotchlite piping at the front and back yokes plus thermo weld reflective detailing at the side arms do a great job of keeping you conspicuous.

Layer Two includes a removable water resistant soft shell insulated liner jacket that is sturdy wind and water resistant made from a breathable stretch nylon soft shell with Thermolite insulation, mandarin style knit trim collar, two zippered pockets and oversized interior stash pocket. Off the bike it looks more fashionable than previous liners. While walking down the street most non-riders won’t even give it a second look.

The new Olympia Ranger Vent Tech Jacket delivers a great combination

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

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of airflow, weather protection and versatility. After years of service my previous AST Jacket’s vent tore off the jacket, but the new version on the Ranger is far wider and much more durable and I found the Rangers zippered vents on the back and chest a breeze to use, especially with the upgraded pull strap on the chest pockets. The fold up chest pocket flaps and Velcro lock down torso straps hold chest zipper vents open to create adjustable air flow and the vents on the arm easily operate, even on the fly. Shoulder to forearm venting plus vertical back vents with fold back vent covers create maximum airflow and offer protection from the elements when you need it. With all the vents open and riding at speed there is serious amount of cooling air passing through the jacket. I have ridden with the new Olympia Ranger Jacket from far north freezing cold to temperatures way past the hundred mark. It might be now called the Ranger, but it truly is an all season jacket.

If things go bad, and the jacket is called on to protect you in a crash, the Ranger Jacket excels as well, as it has removable CE Motion Flex armor at the elbows and shoulders as well as a CE approved Motion Flex articulated back protector for spine protection.

Looking for a complimentary companion for the Ranger Jacket I have spent the miles with Olympia’s Men’s Ranger Overpant. These pants can be used by themselves or an overpant, with casual pants or jeans underneath; I simply wear some LD Comfort shorts. The pants feature full side leg zippers extend to waistband, making them a breeze to put on and take off. If needed you can zip the pants to the jacket.

The knees feature removable and adjustable height (big plus) CE Motion Flex armor and EVA compression foam at hips. A large pocket on the thigh is just one of six pockets found on the Ranger Over Pants. They feature the same “Two-Layered” design to insure multi season riding comfort and the legs have plenty of material for custom tailoring if needed.

As I have mentioned I have ridden with this gear in a wide variety of condition from hot and humid to down right chilly, from bright and sunny to deluge of Biblical size and it works and performs as advertised. Another thing that I have found with all the gear from Olympia is how comfortable they all are. All day riding contentment is a given with every suit I have ridden with from this North Carolina-based company.

The Olympia Ranger Jacket is as tough as it looks and comes in fatigue grey/black, red/black and neon hi-viz yellow/black and retails for $369.99 in sizes S-4XL. The Overpants list for $249.99 and are available in sizes 30-44.

The Olympia Ranger Vent Tech Jacket and Ranger Overpants can be found at Olympia Moto Sports dealers or log onto www.olympiamotosport.com for more info. ~Brian Rathjen

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OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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PRODuCt REvIEw

VALENTINE ONE RADAR DETECTOR

Although authorities would deny the idea of quotas, speed traps and revenue generating – the truth is that they are out to get you.

Sure we all can agree that the United States rocks, but one sad truth remains that the United States is a very heavily policed nation and far too much of these dedicated law enforcement agencies’ time and energy is used to grab the traveling population for driving faster than the posted speed.

Nobody wants to see somebody driving or riding irresponsibly, but pulling over the couple on the Dresser or guy commuting to work for a few miles over the limit gets to be tiresome at the least and problematic at the worst.

We as riders need to fight fire with fire – thus our long term test on the Valentine One Radar Detector.

I have had one of these for a decade or so and always found it to be a good solid unit that was very adept at alerting me to upcoming or approaching radar.

I have never been stopped while using the V1.

Over the past few years Mike Valentine, one time Escort’s chief engineer, has refined his detector. It is now slimmer and lighter than the previous unit,

although it still utilizes that familiar rectangular shape and is still made from magnesium metal, which is strong and light and helps to prevent electrical interference from other devices.

Most other detectors shells are made of plastic.

Valentine Research has constantly worked to improve the Valentine One components to ensure that it remains a top performer in the radar detector world.

Which it is.

What stands out with the V1 versus any other radar detector unit are the arrows.

The Valentine One has large red arrows on the front indicating from which direction the radar signal is coming. In addition to the arrows, the unit includes what Valentine calls the bogey counter, which displays the number of simultaneous threats detected in the area.

Just the other day it came up with 3 warnings with arrows pointing forward and to the left – loud and clear over the rise of a hill I was approaching.

I checked my speed and crested the hill to find two patrol cars side by side on the right side of the road and one across the street on the corner facing cross traffic. With its unique dual antenna design it catches radar in a 360° manner.

Many times the alarm chirp has started off low and slow, only to increase with intensity and having the arrow pointing behind me.

A minute later a State Trooper’s cruiser came whistling past in the left lane at lightning speed.

This is a serious detector and when it comes to detection range and accuracy, Valentine One radar detectors are among the best.

The V1 can detect lasers as well as the X, K and Ka bands.

One report that we heard of had the Valentine One grabbing a radar pulse from five miles away on a straight and clear road.

The Valentine One radar detector includes a mute dial an auto-mute feature. The auto-mute feature alerts you at full volume when a radar signal is detected, then the volume automatically lowers before the sound gets too annoying. You can push the mute button if you get tired of hearing the alarm.

On a motorcycle the one thing that the V1 cannot do well is withstand heavy downpours. When it begins to rain in earnest I pull over and stash the unit away. You don’t want to get this soaked.

Also, know that all radar units are illegal in Washington D.C. (Boy, does that crack mayor run, politiciandriven town have balls or what?) and Virginia and you can have the detector taken away if caught with one.

I have found, as my V1 has its audio running through my headsets, that when kept hidden away from prying police eyes it still works just fine, although it does get a tad warm. The legendary “detector detectors” are useless with the Valentine One’s construction.

One time a group of us rode into Virginia from West Virginia and while stopped at a light a local sheriff got out of his cruiser and walked up to us and asked politely who had the radar detector.

One rider, who was running an old-style “FuzzBuster” took the bullet and got busted himself, as many older and inferior detectors spew out a signature that the police can pick up.

The rest of us, armed with Valentine One detectors, remained quiet and the sheriff asked that the one rider turn it off and put it away – which he did.

The sheriff then checked inside his car and gave us

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 the ‘good to go’ thumbs up – even though we had four other V1s fully operational.

These were not picked up and, stashed away in the tank bags and faring pockets, not seen.

Page 53 There are a number of really good radar detector units available these days and many offer more bells and whistles and accessories, but for our money nothing beats the Valentine One for durability, range and effectiveness.

The Valentine One is available at valentine1-radar.com for $479.

DOWN AND OUT IN PATAGONIA, KAMCHATKA, AND TIMBUKTU BY DR. GREGORY FRAzIER There are a lot of books out these days about traveling to far away places on two wheels and many of them give a fairly clean and sanitized version of what actually happened.

I have a number of Dr. Frazier’s books and I have found that Gregory does little sanitizing of his tales. Like the man, they are very real.

One look at the title of this book - Down And Out in Patagonia, Kamchatka, and Timbuktu - with the Kawasaki KLR 650 toppled on its right side in the sand on the cover and I knew it was going to be another excellent and truthful read.

Further in the book I learned Greg had broken a leg on that spill.

Ouch.

For those who do not know Dr. Gregory Frazier, well let’s say he has been around.

The world actually – five times by motorcycle to be specific.

Often called America’s #1 extreme motorcycle adventurer – he prefers the term AViD. Aren’t we all?

In his travels he has ridden to what I call the “Big Five” - Ushuaia, Argentina – Prudhoe Bay, Alaska – Cape Agulhas, South Africa –North Cape, Norway and Bluff, New Zealand.

Only the North Cape has still eluded me, but after reading Frazier’s newest book the fire has been stoked once again to head north.

When not journeying around the planet you will find Dr. Frazier at his abode on the Crow Indian reservation in the Big Horn Mountains of Montana.

He rarely seems to be home.

Books like this tend to preach to the converted, but keeping the book in

my living room I spotted a few non-riding guests to the home perusing through the pages with a glassy mesmerized shade of longing.

That “I wish I could do that” sort of look in their eyes.

I guess many of us riders have that same feeling too, when we read a book like this.

Words seem to come easily to Dr. Frazier and Down And Out is an effortless read and the coffee table sized book has an easy-going way about it, making it a pleasure to read through at your leisure.

From humble Quaker beginnings to his first machine and first two-wheeled trip you will get a good idea who this man is.

The book bounces around the planet but the story get truly interesting when Frazier agrees to take a passenger with him on his fifth circumnavigation. A simple conversation led to him once again heading out around the planet, this time with a 61-year woman named Donna-Rae – who had never spent any real time on a motorcycle before.

No one ever said a 14-month trip like this would be boring and it wasn’t.

If you are looking for a great read, with plenty of interesting pictures sprinkle through out then give Frazier’s Down And Out in Patagonia, Kamchatka, and Timbuktu ago.

I know I’m happy to have one of his “Motorcycle Sexpedition” stickers on the wall at MWAG and on the bag of my KLR. Down And Out in Patagonia, Kamchatka, and Timbuktu can be ordered on Amazon for $25.99 at last check. ~ Brian Rathjen

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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U PCOM IN G EVENTS C ALENDAR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ Texas Smoke Barbecue, 400 Route 15 South, Jefferson, NJ. Dine indoors or out with dinner specials. Meet and kick some tires while enjoying some terrific barbeque • www.TexasSmokeBBQ.com • 862-209-4078 Every Wednesday • Chelseas Restaurant/Pub, 1051 Rte. 22 East, Lebanon, NJ 6-9pm, weather permitting all summer • www.chelseasrestaurantpub.com Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday Oct. 4 + 11 • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels.

Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. • Bergen Harley-Davidson, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharley.com

OCTOBER 2014 4 • Cross Country Powersports Open House. Watch our webpage and Facebook for more details. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-906-9292 • www.crosscountrypowersports.com 18 • Morton’s BMW Oktoberfest Open House. 9am-4pm. Demo rides, door prizes, food, vendors, great deals music and much more • Morton’s BMW Motorcycles, 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844 • www.mortonsbmw.com 18 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Ride to benefit Fill-A-Need Foundation. Sign in: BCHD 11:30a-1p. $25/rider; $15/passenger includes pre-ride sandwiches. Ride Captain: Paul Teutul Sr. Ride to OCC Headquarters. For more info visit Event Page at www.bergenharley.com • 201-843-6930 • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ 18 • Forever Friends Motorcycle Awareness Foundation Bike Run + Fund Raiser. Skylands Stadium, Championship Dr/Rte. 565, Augusta, NJ. See full details in ad directly below • RAINDATE, OCTOBER 19 19 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson 9th Annual Fall Motorcycle Classic Bike Show and Run. Bike Run: $20/rider; $10/passenger. Sign in: 10-11am BCHD, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ. KSU 11:30 Sharp. 60-mile police-escorted ride to Office Bar + Grill, 32-34 Chestnut St, Ridgewood, NJ. Bike Show: 1-4pm. $20 entry. Music, raffle, food, prizes. Benefits Tomorrow’s Children’s Fund. 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharley.com 19 • Tramontin Harley-Davdison Fall Foliage Run. 50-mile FREE RIDE with picnit afterwards. Sign in 10-11am. KSU 11am. Route 80, Exit 12, Hope, NJ. 908-459-4101 • www.tramontinhd.com

What’s Happening son. Sign in: 9am, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ. KSU: 10am. $20/rider; $10/passenger includes BBQ, beverages, music and raffle ticket. 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharley.com 25 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Blood Drive to benefit Blood Center of NJ. Noon-5pm with Famous VooDoo Chili and candy for the kids. Costumes get 20% off one HarleyDavidson Licensed Product. 12 W. Milton , Rahway, NJ • www.libertyharley.com • 732381-2400

NOVEMBER 2014 29 • Cross Country Powersports Fall Open House. Watch our webpage and Facebook for more details. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-906-9292 • www.crosscountrypowersports.com

DECEMBER 2014 12-14 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show comes to Jacob Javits Center in New York City. Advance tickets now available online @ www.motorcycleshows.com.

Visit the Backroads booth for the latest issue and surprise guests.

JANUARY 2015 9-11 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show comes to Washington Convention Center in Washington, DC. Advance tickets now available online @ www.motorcycleshows.com. Get discounted tickets with promo code backroads15.

PLEASE SEND UPCOMINg EVENT INFORMATION AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE FOR MAxIMUM ExPOSURE. Use form on website for correct format www.backroadsusa.com/events.html email: editor@backroadsusa.com • fax: 973-948-0823

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OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 56

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

How To Change Your Oil words & image: Ron Davis Why pay those uppity mechanics to do something you can easily screw up yourself?

Satisfaction, Pride, Accomplishment. What can possibly compare with the feelings that surround doing a bit of motorcycle maintenance yourself? Well, probably nothing, except maybe the desperate feelings of anxiety over whether you’ve done something wrong that will leave you stranded on some desolate stretch of highway…at night…with no bars on your cell phone…in a downpour…but, other than that, wouldn’t you like to know how to change your own oil? Yes, you would.

Let’s get started. First, you’re going to need some tools. A hammer, of course, is essential. Everyone knows you always need a hammer; in fact, I’ve heard that the original title of Pirsig’s famous book was actually “Hammers and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.” And, those flimsy, cylinder cooling fins that get broken off so easily? They’re basically just cosmetic anyway.

You’ll also need a special BMW oil filter socket wrench attachment, part #GN-555-3398YK2-brgrdn~88Q59-nN-CIA007. Why do you always need some special tool to do anything on a beemer? I imagine there are conversations going on all the time at BMW Research and Development that sound something like this: “Hey, Hans, how are they going to get this dinky, little bolt off, if they, say, have to replace this little light thingy in the blinker deal?”

“Oh, Helmut, they can use any kind of vise grips or pliers, maybe with a hammer, that’ll work just fine, yah.”

“Ach Du Lieber, Hans, did you forget we need more overtime this week?

Let’s make it so they will need this U-shaped, titanium, powder-coated, blind Torx head driver I’ve just drawn!”

“Ummmm, could we make it metric, Helmut?”

“Of course, Hans!”

“Oh Helmut, you rock!” (German version of high-five) You can get this nifty tool from a dealer, or you can spend a week on ebay and save yourself at least two or three dollars (before shipping, anyway). Or if you’re the gambling type, just use your trusty hammer to drive a screwdriver into the side of the filter. Then you can either simply crank out the filter, or, that failing, trailer your bike to your nearest dealer and try making up a story about how the bottom half of your oil filter got torn off. (Like, they won’t already know.)

In addition, you’ll need something to catch the oil drained from your bike.

Now, you can spend your hard-earned money on a specially designed, galvanized steel drain pan, or you can take the more thrifty route like I did and purchase one of those foil, turkey roasting pans which will work just fine, at least until you actually need to use it, in which case you’ll find the way you bent it up to fit in your side case has resulted in pinhole leaks you won’t notice until the hot oil starts spreading over your garage floor, but rest assured you can feel good about the fact you have saved another five, maybe six bucks.

To remove your drain plug (to use the technical term) you’ll need something called an Allen Wrench, a tool taking its name from the famous German toolmaker, Reinhard Wrench. If you can’t remember where you put yours after you used it trying to unplug that pesky garage floor drain, you can always substitute a big screwdriver, vise grips, and of course, the hammer.

Warning, don’t start hammering on your bike until you’ve also picked up some oil and a new oil filter. Don’t get me started on what kind of oil to use; recent research shows that 95% of all BMW rally altercations involving fists and specialized BMW tools have begun with seemingly innocent conversations about oil. Really, you can get oil anywhere, just make sure the label says something about “visigosity,” has a seal from the United States Bureau of Standards and Measurements (USBOSM), and above all make sure it has an anabolic-transfat rating of at least 39.5 millibars. If not, you’re in for big, big trouble. You’ll need at least two extra quarts since obviously one will get knocked over, and the other will be placed in your side case for emergencies, but will be lost after you remove it one day to make room for bananas, milk, bread, and olive loaf.

Now you’re pretty much ready to begin the process:

Step 1: Run the bike until warm, but consider that just running it in your closed garage may not get the oil circulating as freely as it should.

Step 2: Find hammer. (It’s probably still out in the lawn where you hit it with your mower last week.)

Step 3: Remove “drain plug.” Oh yeah, when you pick up the oil filter, part #SN543-UV30-R1600-GARM-?-BRTWRST1, they’re probably going to try to talk you into buying something called a “crush washer.” This is a needless expense, just dreamed up by corporate fat cats in the nuts, bolts, and washers cartels. If you give in and buy one, you’ll find it’s going to get crushed just like your old one.

Step 4: Slide turkey roasting pan under the hot oil stream now pouring onto the garage floor. (If you slide it under there before you begin, the drain plug

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014 will fall in there, and, you know, that oil can stay hot for a long time...)

Step 4.1: Frantically start pulling off reams of paper towels to form minibooms around the spreading oil spill headed for your clogged garage floor drain.

Step 4.2: Begin cursing your yellow lab who, suddenly tired of licking your face, has decided to walk through the growing oil puddle on her way into the house.

Step 5: Grab nearest aquamarine towel to try wiping up paw prints on carpeting before wife gets home.

Step 6: Remove oil filter, burn self, drop filter, spilling contents on garage floor.

Step 7: Replace “drain plug.” You’ll find that in a real service manual for your bike they will give you mysterious directions such as, “Tighten drain plug to 45Nm.” The “Nm” is a meaningless abbreviation mythically referring to torque force, but in actuality it simply means, “one or two light taps with hammer.”

Step 8: Remove oil filler cap and pour in one quart of oil.

Step 8.1: Grab more paper towels to clean up the new quart of oil on the floor since you forgot to replace the oil filter.

Step 9: Replace oil filter after applying a thin coat of oil to the gasket (that rubber part). Note: If it hasn’t happened already, this would be a good time to kick over an opened container of new oil, since it’s going to happen at some point anyway.

Step 10: Continue pouring in oil until the oil reaches the proper level in something called the “sight glass.” There are different schools of thought on exactly where the proper level is. You should probably spend the remainder of the day on one of those online forums to check the indicated levels for your latitude, longitude, elevation, distance from the sun, day of the week, moon phase, time of day, mental disposition, etc.

Step 11: Almost done! Take bike for a shake down cruise. You’ll notice I did not say replace filler cap, since, if you’re like me, you neglected to do that once on your F650 Funduro and had the hot oil spurt up all over your face shield and your new Hi-Vis yellow touring jacket, and from now on, well, that step obviously goes without saying.

Special Note: Upon returning your bike to the garage, make sure to park it

Page 57 out of all that oil spill you spilled, but don’t worry about standing in it yourself. This will allow your feet to slip when you’re putting the bike back up on it’s centerstand, which will cause the bike to fall over on it’s right side, which will necessitate calling your neighbor Wally over to help pick up the bike, which will prompt him to all the while make cruelly hurtful remarks about your prowess as a mechanic. On the upside though, Wally will most assuredly throw his back out.

You did it! To sum up then, let’s compare…

Oil Change at a Dealer: Parts, lubricant: $35 Labor: $30 Tax: $3.50 Total: $68.50 your savings: Well, rather than thinking about savings, best to think about the intangible benefits of changing your oil yourself. The pride, the sense of accomplishment, the humility, the pain, the exasperation, the anger, the marital discord…well, just remember: YOU DID IT YOURSELF!

DIY: Five Quarts Oil $45 Kitty Litter (for oil spill) $4.98 Foil Turkey Roasting Pan $3.29 Carpet Shampoo $9.97 Dog Shampoo $3.79 Paper Towels (1 cs) $11.99 Aquamarine Guest Towel $10.50 Oil Recycling Fee: $5 Gas (for miscellaneous trips to town for paper towels, guest towel, shampoo, kitty litter, recycling, etc.) $20 Wally’s 12 Chiropractor Appointments: $360 Total: $474.52

Who do you think keeps Backroads’ computers running?

718 Main St, Boonton, Nj

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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PRODuCt SPOtLIGhtS NO THRU ROAD: CONFESSIONS OF A TRAVELING MAN BY CLEMENT SALVADORI World motorcycle traveler Clement Salvadori returns with another great road book. This time, he brings enthusiasts 30 stories covering 50 years of travel by motorcycle to odd spots around the planet. Readers can follow him through war-torn Vietnam to the sybaritic pleasures of camping out in a South African wilderness area, from Afghanistan to Zimbabwe, from 1957 to 2010.

While the motorcycle is always at the heart of these stories, far more important are Salvadori’s impressions of the countries he rides through and the people he meets along the way. He artfully injects history, sociology, politics, and economics into the mix, and comes up with fresh and vivid descriptions of the many places he has been. On these journeys, he was frequently told, “The road doesn’t go that way, you can’t get there from here.”

But, for Salvadori, bad roads, bridgeless rivers, and seemingly insurmountable mountains were always part of the fun—if one may call it that. A big part of the adventure was to find a way, even when there was supposedly none.

You don’t have to be a motorcyclist to enjoy this book, but if you are, you’ll be inspired to travel more yourself to not only see the world firsthand but also to face your own set of challenges just as successfully as this great traveler and storyteller has.

Salvadori’s No Thru Road: Confessions of a Traveling Man is available now from www.whitehorsepress.com for $20.

VENTZ - A COOL SOLUTION FROM ENgLAND Who would think England – land of grey skies, chilly rain and tepid beer - would come up with the neatest and simplest idea for cooling off today’s motorcyclists?

We spotted these Ventz on the internet and the good blokes over the pond in England were kind enough to send a couple of pair stateside.

The Ventz are made from a durable pliable plastic and simply slide up your jackets sleeve, at the wrists, allowing for a burst of cooling air to ride up your jacket and arms.

When things got hot they added to our riding comfort no matter what jacket we wore.

If your jacket does not have good ventilation then these will work even better. As we all know without any ventilation some riding gear, especially in warmer months, can get almost unbearable. The Ventz alleviate this easily, allowing for a dissipating of that trapped heat by introducing cooler moving air.

The Ventz also have a screen that only allows the breeze to travel up the arm, while preventing things that can sting, bite or ruin your day’s ride.

The Ventz come in a variety of color choices - black, blue, red, white or yellow and run about $25 American.

To find out more information and to order a set log onto www.ventz-range.com.

DEUTER COMPACT 10 HYDRATION BACk PACk We’re big fans of hydrating while on your ride or tour and we have just spent some time riding with the Deuter Compact Air EXP 10 Cycling Back Pack. Designed for bicyclists, this hydration backpack easily works for motorcyclists too.

The new Deuter Compact Air comes with a relaxed, urban style and cool colors. On longer rides they offer top quality functionality. The mesh pocket or helmet flap offers extra storage and the side compression straps can be used to store protective pads. When it comes to an extended day trip, then abracadabra, you can expand it and get more into the main compartment. The stylish design and functional material are just the ticket.

Deuter Compact Air EXP 10 Cycling Back Pack 2012 features mesh shoulder straps, mesh hip fins with two zipped mesh pockets and Airstripes back system for all-round ventilation, hydration system compatible with bladder compartment with a Velcro sealed tube channels and mouthpiece holder, sleeve and safety light loop, 3M reflectors at the front, sides and back, two zipped front pockets, stow-away helmet flap and rain cover and side compression straps also suited to storing extra gear. The Deuter Compact Air EXP 10 list for $129 • www.deuter.com/us/us/

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

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PRODuCt SPOtLIGhtS gIVI HANDgUARD ExTENSION FOR THE NEW BMW R1200gS

If you are looking for a tad more hand protection from your new GS then take a look at Givi Handguard Extension. These smoke plexiglass units easily attach to the stock guards and add a significant amount of additional protection and look really smart too. $99 from www.giviusa.com.

MACHINEART MOTO AVANT RT_LC FENDER ExTENSION FOR THE 2014 BMW R1200 RT_LC Machineart_Moto, designers of specialized products for BMW motorcycles, shall introduce the Avant 12RT_LC, a “No-Drill” front fender extension for the 2014 Liquid Cooled BMW R1200 RT. The Avant RT_LC expands the successful Avant fender extension line also available for the BMW R1200GS/A, R1200RT and F800/650GS. The Avant 12RT_LC design adds 6” of extra front fender length and 2” more width than the stock fender to effectively reduce mud, water, tar, and rock splash back onto the engine, pipes, and surrounding components.

The front fender of the 2014 is very short rendering it ineffective in protecting the exposed painted surface of the front engine case from stone damage and tar accumulation. The Avant RT_LC helps protect the engine surfaces and keep them looking new longer.

A key feature of the Avant line is ease of installation with no hole drilling required. Not only is it simple to install, it looks beautifully integrated with the styling of the new RT. It is transferable to another bike without leaving disfiguring holes behind, a benefit for resale value. The Avant RT_LC fits over the top of the stock RT fender and engages the trailing end with a unique molded-in saddle. Two stainless steel compression clamps grip the underside of the stock fender on two sides, drawn tight with T25 Torx Head screws. Avant RT_LC are injection molded in resilient polypropylene with a surface texture matching that of the RT fender.

The characteristic flared wing shape widens the splash coverage area without looking wide.

List price is $79. To get yours visit www.machineart.com or call 908-996-7210.

HAPPY TRAILS WOW LED TAILLIgHT SYSTEM FOR THE kLR 650 For those of you who have an older model Kawasaki KLR 650 in your stable you are most likely aware of the anemic charging system this machine was equipped with.

Kawasaki claims the charging system puts out 300 watts. Most folks that have checked think 200 watts (on a good day) is more likely what it really puts out.

This is fine for riding around in stock condition, but once you begin to add farkle and accessories such as lights, GPS and – God forbid – heated gear in the colder months then you begin to tax the KLR’s stator.

Swapping the stock stator to a High Output Stator is one option, but lowering the power being drawn from the bike in day-to-day use is another.

Looking to do just that we contacted the folks at Happy Trails. Located in Boise, Idaho Happy Trails carries some serious and proven accessories and gear for the adventure rider in all of us.

They sell a replacement LED Taillight that installs in minutes. Simply unscrew the stock bulb screw in the adapter unit; the board mounts securely underneath the taillight lens cover. The WOW LED taillight System uses less power, is far brighter (both tail and brake lights), and last some 100,000 hours with no signal degradation.

There is also the increase in safety with this light as, at 60 mph, it takes some 28 feet for a conventional bulb’s element to heat and glow.

The WOW LED is instantaneous.

That could be the distance of a lifetime!

Riding around town the WOW LED uses half the power of the stock bulb and when the brake light is activated it is 180% brighter than what comes from Kawasaki. Trust me – it’s really dazzling!

An additional safety feature is that the brake light comes with built-in dipswitch toggle to activate two second alert flashing before steady brake beam.

This is a superior product that can brighten up, make safer and be less taxing on your KLR 650.

Happy Trails WOW LED Taillight System for the KLR 650 sells for $69.95 and can be found on their website www.happy-trail.com.

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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MOtORCYCLE MARKEtPLACE

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THE BIKE SHOP Motorcycle Service Repair + Parts

Custom welding service and PA inspections available on site

Specializing in resurrecting old bikes and Vintage Custom work 111 Mountain Spring Rd, Milford, PA • 570-228-6101 • fisherfabrications@gmail.com

Sussex Hills Ltd. Now stocking a full line of heated gear Make your riding season last all year.

973-875-2048

BARN TRAILERS

SALES 718-426-7039 • www.barntruckrental.com RENTALS 57-05 BROADWAY • WOODSIDE NY 11377 (OFF THE BQE & LIE)

Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies • Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard Parts • Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing

Norman Gross Since 1976 Our Reputation Speaks for Itself

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3 miles north of Sussex Borough

American • Metric • Sport • Parts & Accessories • Award-winning Service • Performance Work • Dyno Tuning • S&S Pro Tuning Center • Power Commander Tuning Center

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Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 61

MOtORCYCLE MARKEtPLACE

ALL thAt GOOD StuFF

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983

Worth the ride from anywhere!

Member of

NOW AVAILABLE Barbeque Catering Flexible • Affordable Ready When You Are 320 Front Street, Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-2274 • www.thisilldous.com

Open Daily for Breakfast and Beyond • 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday

The Riverton

Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river.

Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking.

Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.

Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant

Member of

At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com

Ye Olde Landmark Tavern 5 Spacious Rooms starting at $90.00 Tavern and Dining Room Menu

Touring North Central Virginia?

Then ride on over to the NEW Comfort Inn & Suites in Orange

Moto-Inn Approved Tell ‘em Backroads sent you!

Serving Hours: Mon-Thurs: 5-9pm Fri-Sat: 5-9:30pm Sunday: 1-8pm Seasonal April ~ December Member of

Featured in ‘We’re Outta Here’ Sept. 2011 In the heart of great riding • Between Syracuse and Utica

Cooperstown • Finger Lakes • State Forests

Route 20, Bouckville, NY • 315-893-1810 • www.yeoldelandmark.com

Motorcyclist Owned & Operated The newest motorcycle-friendly hotel closest to Skyline Drive… Large indoor heated pool and spa • Free deluxe hot breakfast buffet just 30 miles away!

Microwaves + fridges in every room • Large rooms + suites available 15% Discount to all Motorcyclists

Comfort Inn & Suites 334 Caroline St (James Madison Hwy), Orange, VA 22960 540-672-3121 • www.comfortinn.com/hotel-orange-virginia-VA657

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

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MOtORCYCLE MARKEtPLACE

ALL thAt GOOD StuFF Fire Pit • Free WiFi Cooked-to-order Breakfast Heated Pool • BYOB

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang

THURSDAY BIKE NIGHT IS BACK • join us at

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN

We welcome everyone from a lone rider to a full chapter

GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

344 Route 100, West Dover, VT www.BigBearsLodge.com 802-464-5591

The Boat House Restaurant Join us for Brunch, Lunch or Dinner overlooking Swartswood Lake

Member

Excellent Ride Destination Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays Call for Seasonal Hours 1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ 973-300-0016

Competing at the Rock, Ribs and Ridges Music/BBQ Festival

June 28-29 • Sussex County Fairgrounds • Augusta, NJ

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com Riverside Cafe & Lodge, nestled on the Beaverskill River, Roscoe, NY CIA-trained chef • Motel rooms and cabins • Free wi-fi Excellent base location to explore the lower Catskills

lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O t Restauran Barbeque W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo

oute 9W icturesque R Located on P Perkins Drive minutes from State Park and Harriman Point historic West just south of

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Celebrate the Season with some awesome barbeque!

If you go home hungry it’s your own fault

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Riverside Cafe & Lodge • 16624 Cty Hwy 17 • Roscoe, NY • 607-498-5305 www.riversidecafeandlodge.com • GPS: 41°58’09”N • 75°01’32.6”W

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2014

Page 63

MOtORCYCLE MARKEtPLACE

ALL thAt GOOD StuFF

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap

318 Curves in 11 Miles

www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550 17548 Tapoco Road, Robbinsville, NC 28771

Deals Gap Store Motel Bar and Grill

If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

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WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS We cater to road racers and support all Track Day organizations Check us for Suspension Setups • One-piece Road Race suits in stock

Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95

TORQ-IT PRODUCTS, INC. 1701 Manor Road • Havertown PA 19083

Tel: 1.888.876.9555 • Visit Our New Website: WWW.TORQ-IT.COM

WCW Washington Cycle

www.washingtoncycleworks.com Junction of Rtes. 57/31 • Washington, NJ 07882

908-835-0043 Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM

NOW ACCEPTED ON OUR WEBSITE FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS NEW • RENEWAL WWW.BACKROADSUSA.COM/SUBSCRIPTION.HTML

SAFE • SECURE • CONVENIENT

OCTOBER 2014 • BACKROADS

Page 64

PRODuCt SPOtLIGht

TwisTed ThRoTTLe’s TeChspeC TANk GRips

Tank grips have been around since the 1940’s, providing extra control and comfort for riders of all types of motorcycles. TechSpec takes this concept to the next level with its Gripster Tank Grip Pads, providing a textured grip surface in an attractive, bike model-specific package.

TechSpec’s Gripster Tank Grips are designed specifically to assist in the rider’s ability to better control their body position.

Gripping the motorcycle between your legs during acceleration, deceleration and cornering helps minimize unwanted sliding in the saddle for better weight distribution and improved motorcycle handling, as well as decreasing overall body fatigue.

While common on sport bikes, especially those set up for the track, tank pads are also a useful addition to Adventure bikes. When standing on the pegs off road, the pads provide a comfortable and secure place to grip the tank with the knees, aiding in overall control and confidence.

The Gripster’s specially designed materials and textures will not damage leathers or riding pants, and unlike most other competitors’ products its unique “Releasable Adhesive” is removable so the rider can re-position or remove the pads if desired, without damage to the paint or compromising the adhesive’s performance.

Three versions are available: The Snake Skin pad is the most popular in TechSpec’s line, with the thickest pad at 0.125” for the ultimate in comfort and a low profile diamond tex-

ture that offers superb grip for all types of motorcycles.

The new C3 pad uses a 0.100” thick synthica rubber grip pad with an oval texture for excellent grip and provides the greatest amount of vibration reduction and comfort.

The High Fusion pad is a super-thin 0.035” pad made from a synthetic rubber blend with a simple rough texture for super lightweight grip.

All three versions us TechSpec’s “Releasable Adhesive” that allows re-positioning or removal as needed.

Pre-cut, bike-specific kits are available for most popular motorcycles. “100% developed and manufactured in the USA. Used on motorcycles around the world.”

See the whole line and prices of TechSpec Gripster Tank Grips at www.twistedthrottle.com

Rip & Ride® • River Runner’s Roost 2378 Rte. 97 , Pond Eddy, NY 12770 845-557-0097 • www.riverrunnersroost.com

CR 560 in Sussex County, Nj Cross Dingmans Bridge • $1 toll Straight on Rte. 739 Right at Milford Rd. Left at Raymondskill Rd. Cross over I-84 Hard left on US 6 Quick right onto Twin Lakes Rd. Right at Rte. 434 Cross river to New York Right at Rte. 97 south River Runner’s Roost down road on left hand side

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Honda Valkyrie Legendary Power, Groundbreaking Style

Honda CBR300R Light. Nimble. Affordable.

www.Powersports.Honda.com 210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ • 973-428-1735

honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227. Valkyrie® and CBR® are registered trademarks of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. (07/13)

Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri: 9am-6pm • Thur: 9am-8pm • Sat: 9am-5pm SUNDAY: CLOSED - GONE RIDING

2015 BOLT™

JUMP FOR JOY! 2015 MOTORCROSS BIKES HAVE ARRIVED!

OLD SCHOOL JUST GOT SCHOOLED. Stripped down, minimalist design meets modern, urban bobber performance.

We build it. You make it your own.™

2015 FZ-07™ LIMITED SUPPLY OF DEMO ADVENTURES AVAILABLE

ONLY Full Line KTM Dealer in the tri-state area HUGE inventory of KTM Parts, Accessories and Apparel

IT ALL STARTS HERE. At $6990 MSRP and an estimated 58 MPG* it only makes sense to have one in your garage.

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210 Route 10 West, East Hanover, NJ • 973-428-1735

www.HanoverPowersports.com

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www.HanoverPowersports.com

*Fuel economy estimates are based on US EPA exhaust emission certification data obtained by Yamaha. Your actual mileage will vary depending on road conditions, how you ride and maintain your vehicle, accessories, cargo, and operator/passenger weight. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Professional rider depicted on a closed course. ©2013 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com