Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 227 by Barcelona Metropolitan

DECEMBER 2015 Nยบ 227

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CHRISTMAS

JOY RIDE FUN ON TIBIDABO INTERVIEW

AT HOME WITH JOAN AND SENEN ARMENGOL

5 LOCAL GIFT IDEAS HEART OF CATALUNYA

SAUSAGES AND FESTIVALS IN VIC

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MUSIC

FASHION

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

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contents

METROPOLITAN contributors

{ISSUE 227} DECEMBER 2015

regulars 06 08 10 33 34 36 49 50

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

Features 12 rePort: Dogs in the citY Four legs good? Sam Mednick examines life in the city for its four-legged inhabitants. 18 riDe on The Tibidabo amusement park has been taking the inhabitants of Barcelona for a ride since 1900. 29 a VerY catalan christMas Adopt some local festive cheer this year. 30 Father anD son Joan and Senen Armengol turn their interviewing skills on each other. 34 heart oF catalunYa Sausages and festivals in the Catalan stronghold of Vic.

Eimear Corrigan Dublin native, Eimear, graduated from Trinity College Dublin with a degree in History in 2010. She then went on to work in the area of education and museums in Lyon, France, before moving to Oxford to work at the Ashmolean museum of Art and Archaeology. Now in her third year living in Barcelona, she divides her time between writing, teaching and ping pong.

TONI ROCAMORA is a retired economist, head chef of a big family, and lover of all gastronomy-related sports, such as snail hunting, mushroom collecting and market shopping. Toni was born in Oliana, a small town in the foothills of the Pyrenees, and inherited his passion for cooking from his mother, famous for her traditional family recipes. He now volunteers for D’INS, a cookery school that aims to train young people at risk of social exclusion. www.ambdosfogons. com

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

Directories 41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Rebecca Marcos, Nicolás Zdravko Reyes Sales Assistant Callum Fraser Editorial Assistants Rachel Huffman, Eimear Corrigan, Alex Harrington, Alex Mackintosh, Christina McKeon Frutuoso Design Assistant Toby Golus, Jessica Goring Contributors Miquel Hudin, Louise Johnson, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Clare Sheppard, Tori Sparks, Sam Zucker Photographers Yan Pekar Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

TORI SPARKS Tori is a professional musician living in Barcelona. Since 2005, Tori has released five albums under the auspices of her own record label, Glass Mountain Records. Her most recent work, El Mar, is a bilingual collaboration with Barcelona-based flamenco fusion trio, Calamento. When on the road, she plays shows in everything from large festivals to small house concerts. Tori writes for Metropolitan on topics dealing with society, culture, art and music, and she enjoys the opportunity it presents to meet fascinating people she might otherwise never come across.

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IN THE CITY

new

GOING TO THE CHAPEL

LA BELLVITJA. CARRER DE L’HOSPITAL 38. WWW.LA-BELLVITJA-BRINDISA.COM Traditional with a modern twist is the best way to sum up La Bellvitja’s food and decor. Located by Plaça Sant Agusti in the remnants of a 15th-century chapel, it is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine and some traditional Catalan food, with hints of Galician and Basque cuisine. The menu includes stews and braises, excellent for warming your cockles in the winter months, and there are also some inspiring vegetarian options, moving away from the typical bravas and tortilla. The impressive selection of red meats includes rabbit, pork, lamb and Basque ribeye steak. Menu aside, what makes this restaurant even more special is its dedication to supporting local farmers from around the country. Photographs of the suppliers and products adorn the walls of the restaurant, and many of the products are sourced from the neighbouring market, La Boquería. And, in case you needed an excuse to go for a gin and tonic, La Bellvitja also boasts a cocktail bar, which is available for hire for private functions and events.

IN TOWN

GREAT DANES

MIKKELLER BAR BARCELONA. VALÈNCIA 202. The craft beer scene in Barcelona has exploded over the last few years, and the city’s latest edition, Mikkeller Bar, has raised the bar even higher. The founders of the renowned international brand are three Danish friends— Thomas Rohde, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø and Jacob Gram Asling—and Rohde has moved here to manage the Barcelona branch. This may be the first Spanish project for the Danes but their craft beers have already brought them success around the world, with bars from Copenhagen and Tokyo to San Francisco. As gypsy brewers, Mikkeller do not have a fixed brewery where they produce their beers; instead, they prefer to rent space within other breweries, if and when they’re feeling creative. “We haven’t been in Barcelona very long, but we really hope to work with local brewers to expand our already large selection of beers as soon as possible,” said Rohde. The bar offers 24 beer taps, and over 100 different bottles and craft beers. The food menu is almost as impressive. The rustic-style, Catalan kitchen has no time for pretentious portions: forget thin slithers of Manchego, this bar is about quality and quantity, so a good, hearty slab of only the best is what you will get. “We like to suggest food and drink combinations that are both unusual and intriguing,” explained Rohde. “An IPA beer with Warpig’s Spicy Beef Jerkey, for example, both compliment and contrast with each other, leaving your taste buds wanting more.”

FINE ART

FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE. CASA GARRIGA I NOGUÉS. DIPUTACIÓ 250. Nestled in the heart of the Eixample on Diputació, a brand new gallery recently opened at the Fundación MAPFRE in Casa Garriga i Nogués. With two exhibition halls already in Madrid, the gallery is the third to be opened by the insurance giant. And things have certainly gotten off to a flying start with the inaugural exhibition, ‘The Triumph of Colour’. This collection of early 20th-century masterpieces is on loan from the Musée d’Orsay and Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris, and features works by Van Gogh, Matisse and Picasso. The common theme running through the collection of 70 paintings is the liberation of colour during that time period, after a long battle over its use within the art world. This chromatic revolution consisted of colour being transformed from a tool used for imitating into a medium with which sensation and expression could be transmitted. This outstanding exhibition embodies the very foundation of modern artistic culture and is open to all, for free, until January 10th. Based on the calibre of this exhibition and others at the sister galleries in Madrid, Casa Garriga i Nogués promises to be a stalwart on the art scene in Barcelona. Book online in advance.

5 CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS SLOW JEWELLERY Marta and Òscar create handcrafted, natureinspired jewellery in their workshops in Garrotxa (Girona), using natural materials bought from local suppliers. www.faunayflora.es VINTAGE GIFTS Find some unique gifts in this quirky Gràcia shop. Originally a furniture restoration project, Meublé sells handmade and vintage gifts for the home. Martinet de la Rosa 34. holameuble.blogspot.com.es

CRAFTY GIFTS The eighth edition of this festival celebrating independent crafts will showcase a host of lovingly-made wares from bags and accessories to toys, cosmetics and ceramics. December 12th and 13th at the Maritime Museum. www.festivalet.org

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JOURNEY OF FLAVOURS

TRÓPICO. MARQUÈS DE BARBERÀ 24. WWW.TROPICOBCN.COM With many cafés in town now offering a brunch menu, you have to look a little harder for something truly original. Located in the heart of the Raval on Carrer del Marquès de Barberà, Trópico is connecting cultures through its internationally inspired menu, filled with flavours from all corners of the world—Caribbean burgers, salads from the Andes and crepes from the Maghreb. The impressive selection of smoothies includes the Indian mango lassi and the house special, the Pure Trópico (a blend of papaya, passionfruit and pineapple). It doesn’t stop there. Trópico’s mix of classic and exotic desserts is reason enough to pay a visit. The carrot cake is a delicious, aromatic experience, topped with cream icing, Middle Eastern spices and nuts. The international staff are a friendly, welcoming bunch, and Trópico is handily located opposite one of the Raval’s biggest gyms, Can Ricart—the perfect treat after a good workout.

HANDMADE IN BCN Local Etsy makers come together to sell their creations at the annual Fantàstic Handmade Market Barcelona at the University of Barcelona building on Gran Via on December 12th and 13th. Expect lots of textiles and accessories and plenty of unique Christmas gift ideas. www.facebook.com/FantasticBCN CITY-INSPIRED STOCKING FILLER Produced by El Globus Vermell, a group of local architects, this book tells the story of Barcelona’s network of neighbourhood markets, and in doing so, portrays the history of urban planning, architecture and society in the city since the mid-19th century. All this comes wrapped up in an accordion book that unfolds to reveal beautifully hand drawn illustrations accompanied by explanations in English, French and Spanish. Available at Llibreria Jaimes, València 318.

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IN THE CITY

streetlife

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VILADOMAT

MERQUÉN. Viladomat 36. www.facebook.com/merquenbcna Merquén is a smoked chili pepper used as a condiment in the Mapuche cuisine of central and southern Chile, and southwestern Argentina. Dry and spicy, this powder is often mixed with other ingredients in the preparation of special dishes at the restaurant Merquén. Serving empanadas galore, along with cremas, chorrillana, cazuela de pollo and more, this authentic spot is the perfect mix of Chilean soul and Mediterranean aroma.

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METROPOLITAN PEOPLE DANIEL, 29, PROFESSIONAL ROLLERBLADER A monkey for sure because they’re mischievous. They don’t let worries ever get in the way of having fun, and they’re always wiling to try something new.

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VELOCIUTAT. Viladomat 14. facebook.com/velociutatbarcelona Open for a little over a year, Velociutat sells, rents and repairs bikes. Their speciality is quintessential racing bicycles from the Seventies and Eighties. “It’s great to get customers in here who are interested in these classic bikes and love them as much as I do,” said owner Carles. “Plus, I think the style is very good for riding in this city.”

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In the heart of Sant Antoni, the popularity of Carrer del Parlament has spread to the surrounding streets, breathing new life into the neighbourhood.

TARANNÀ. Viladomat 23. www.tarannacafe.com With a brunch menu of baked eggs and quiche variations, chefsuggested dishes, and a genial atmosphere, this bar/café is the perfect place to chill solo or mingle with friends. “The first thing that drew my attention to this place was the Italian coffee machine,” said Kaori, from Japan. “The coffee didn’t disappoint, and they have menus in English, which is perfect for someone like me, who recently moved into the neighbourhood and doesn’t know that much Spanish or Catalan yet.”

LA DONUTERÍA. Parlament 20 (corner with Viladomat). www.ladonuteria.com From the street, passersby can see American pastry chef Richard Bies making small batches of his dough in La Donutería’s open kitchen every morning. The dough of his large, dense, artisanal donuts has an intense flavour due to his triple fermentation process. Ten different concoctions are available each day, some as sweet as chocolate cream with a pear glaze, others as surprising as a citrus donut with pistachio crumbles. Which one will you choose?

VALNOT. Viladomat 30. www.valnot.es This tiny shop sells some of the quirkiest vintage trinkets in town. Where else can you find porcelain tigers, stitched nature murals, bowling pins and an oldschool salon hair dryer? There is also a workshop visible above the showroom floor, where the staff are busy restoring wornout furniture.

WHAT IS YOUR ANIMAL SPIRIT AND WHY?

LAIA, 26, STUDENT My spirit animal would have to be a whale. Despite their scale and strength, they’re quiet and peaceful. Appearances can be deceiving.

COQUE, 37,

MANAGER OF FLEADONIA

A cat. Maybe even a kitten. They’re very cute and look at me—I’m cute! And they get to lie about all day and night and are always relaxed.

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 ZUCKERHAUS. Parlament 17 (corner with Viladomat). This cutesy pastisseria is nestled behind the preserved teal and black tiled facade of an original hair salon. After years of baking with her mother and sister at home in Germany, owner Manuela sort of fell into this profession and opened Zuckerhaus four years ago. The interior is decorated with stack upon stack of delicate teacups and saucers—some for sale, but most from her father’s collection—and filled with heavenly scents. Manuela always bakes from scratch with seasonal ingredients. She admits Christmas is the best time of year, however. “There are so many holiday recipes, and everyone wants to eat cookies and cake, not like in the summer when people are watching their weight,” she explained with a smile.

[‘GALERI]. Viladomat 27. galeribcn.com [‘galeri] is part shop, part exhibition space. The shop at the front offers items created by international artists and designers currently working in Barcelona. The exhibition space in the back extends into the garden, which ends at a brick wall used by urban artists as a canvas during their exhibitions.

 PEGGY, 23,

PROFESSIONAL ROLLERBLADER

I’d have to choose a frog, because when I was little I had a pet frog. Now whenever I see frogs, I feel a sort of connection because of my childhood.

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IN THE CITY

A place of My OWN Franco-Polish couPle sylvain and Marta, have built their Personal slice oF Paradise to raise their twin girls on the edge oF the Parc natural del garraF. TEXT BY CAROL MORAN.

ineyards, birdsong and outdoor living. Life on the edge of the magnificent Parc Natural del Garraf seems like a distant dream from the busy city streets of Barcelona. But in 2013, the dream became a reality for Sylvain Deltor and Marta Rodziewicz, when they moved into a house that was built to their design in the peaceful village of Olivella. The couple, who met in Bournemouth, England, moved to Barcelona in 2007 and lived on the 13th floor of an apartment block in Vall d’Hebron for five years. When they started looking for a bigger place to raise a family, they couldn’t find anything that ticked all the boxes in Barcelona. Outdoor living, plenty of light and the sweeping views they had become accustomed to were all on the wish list, and the housing stock available in the city simply didn’t fulfil the requirements. So, when the opportunity arose to buy a 700-square-metre plot of land in December 2010, they jumped at it. Not only was it good value, it also offered a green escape from the city—a move that the couple were willing to make. Sitting on a hillside with stunning views across the landscape of the Penedès region, the family home is situated at the lower end of a steep, narrow site filled with pine trees. It is a one-storey construction that steps up in the middle to follow the topography of the site and accommodates three bedrooms. Simple, clean lines characterise the house design, which is based around the concept of light, open-plan living. Natural light was a fundamental element of the design—the bathrooms are skylit, the kitchen incorporates small square windows amidst the tiling—with the pièce de résistance being the glazed corner of the open-plan living and kitchen area, the couple’s favourite spot. “It may look like a playroom now,” laughed Marta as she gestured towards the

baby paraphernalia belonging to Lena and Lou, the couple’s 16-month-old twin girls, “but from here you have the best views across the landscape and it is always light.” From the kitchen, a glass wall creates an almost seamless link to the outdoor terrace decked out with a green astroturf carpet, where the young family spend much of their time, enjoying barbecues and visitors’ company. A swinging chair perched on the edge of the site provides the perfect lookout point and a quiet spot to soak up the rays with a book in hand.

“we’re right on the edge oF the national Park and it’s so PeaceFul here. the girls can Play outside all day iF they like.”

It hasn’t all been plain sailing, though; building a house involves a steep learning curve. “They say that by the time you build your third house, you get it right! This is our first, and there are definitely things that we would have done differently,” acknowledged Sylvain. They would have, for example, considered the outdoor space more carefully. “We spend a lot of time outside on the terrace, so a bigger area would have been better. We just didn’t think of that.” There is also a lot to be said for doing the research. The local council has recently tightened up planning restrictions in the area, and it would now be difficult to carry out a housing project similar to theirs. “We nearly bought a site that

But it doesn’t stop there. Sylvain and Marta have big plans for developing the land behind the house, including an infinity pool and outdoor kitchen area that will enjoy even better views. This area will be connected to the rooftop of the existing house by a little bridge to allow access to a large terrace area, which is currently inaccessible. Further up the site, which fronts onto another street, the couple plan to build two small timber cabins to be used by their many visitors. They plan to also market these suites as bed and breakfast accommodation during the summer months, creating a source of income from their investment, as well as the opportunity to meet people of all nationalities and share their home with them.

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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The family spend a lot of time enjoying their outdoor space.

Sylvain and Marta plan to build two timber guest suites amidst the pine trees above their house. Model and design by CAVAA Arquitectes. www.cavaa.net

had no construction potential!” exclaimed Sylvain. “I think talking to the neighbours and getting any words of advice or information about local builders is also a good idea,” added Marta helpfully. So, would they recommend the house building experience overall? “yes, although it was a nightmare at times,” admitted Sylvain. “It is great to be able to choose everything to suit your taste, but you never really know how much it is going to cost and when it will end.” The construction phase of the project was scheduled to last eight months, but it actually took three years to complete, just in time for the arrival of the twins. “We were very unlucky because the builder went bankrupt in the middle of the project, which caused huge delays. During that time, we were living in a studio flat in the Raval—the two of us and our cat, Loco, in 27m2—and it was very difficult to monitor the project from a distance.

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Looking back we can laugh about it, but at the time it wasn’t very funny!” It may have taken a lot of time and effort to get there, but the family are now reaping the benefits—fresh air, beautiful views, affordable living, and a safe, green environment with good schools nearby. “We’re right on the edge of the national park and it’s so peaceful here. The girls can play outside all day if they like,” said Marta, contented. “This is paradise for us.” Even the daily commute isn’t a drag. “I go on my motorbike, and it’s a nice 45-minute drive into Barcelona,” explained Sylvain. “Marta works in Cerdanyola del Valles, so it is easy for her to get there on the motorway.” Of course there are some downsides. “We miss having the opportunity to easily go out and meet up with friends in the city,” admitted Sylvain. “It just means that we, and our friends, have to make a bit more effort.” And with just

3,600 residents, Olivella is a quiet town. “There are some expats living nearby, but there are not many opportunities to meet people locally,” said Marta. “There was one bar, but it closed down back in May.” That said, the couple have had a constant stream of visitors since they moved into the house—family, friends, couch-surfers—so they are never quite on their own. And they are known for their welcoming spirit. “People say we’re crazy for having so many people stay!” laughed Marta. “But we’ve always been like this. During our years living in Barcelona, we had more than 120 people couchsurf at our place. We’ve met so many people over the years by opening our doors.” And as they enjoy a sundowner overlooking the vineyards of Penedès, with the girls playing happily outside, it seems that it has all been worth it.

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TINDOG The dog spin-off of Tinder. This app is an ideal way for dogs to connect with other ‘like-minded’ canines within a close radius. If the owner’s also lonely, the app has the option to specify if you’d like to make human friends as well.

A Friend

For Life BARCELONA IS KNOWN TO BE a pet-friendly place, but the growing number of dogs in the city brings ITS OWN CHALLENGES. BY SAM MEDNICK. PHOTOS BY TOBY GOLUS.

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ou arrive home and there’s barely enough time to turn the key in the lock and inch the door open before a four-legged bundle of slobbery love accosts you with wet kisses to say hello. Something takes over and before you know it, you’ve forgotten the daily toil, and for a brief moment, you’re present, enamoured and smiling. Welcome to the wonderful, often messy, but never dull world of dogs. Whether you’re a seasoned pet parent, a new owner or an inquisitive onlooker, the general consensus when it comes to living with a four-legged friend is that they have the power to change lives. Studies have shown that interacting with animals (dogs in particular) causes a drop in blood pressure and a spike in oxytocin—a feel-good hormone that helps us to cope with stress. Simply meeting a dog’s gaze can help one feel relaxed and at ease. Yet for non-pet owners, choosing to invest in a furry creature that has the potential to tear your house apart, while burning a hole in your wallet, can sound incredibly unappealing. And, in a city like Barcelona, there are more reasons to be sceptical. The lack of green spaces, small apartments, and a densely populated urban environment where neighbours are often too close for comfort, make for a compelling argument against dog ownership. However, we all must coexist in peace, and with approximately 144,000 dogs and 28,000 cats living in Barcelona, the city strives to make the lives of both pet and non-pet owners as seamless as possible. In recent years, the Catalan government has launched a host of new initiatives, including fines for owners whose dogs are off-leash as well as new transport rules allowing dogs to ride the metro (outside of rush hour). Recently, Barcelona’s City Council also began the first phase of a strategic plan to create more spaces for dogs, to ensure that every district in the city has at least one specific area of approximately 700m2 for them to run around, easy access to water, and bag dispensers so that owners can quickly clean up after them. All with the objective of improving the relationship between the city’s four and twolegged inhabitants. An animal lover since birth, Natalia Laing recalls how she begged her mother daily for four years to buy her a dog, until one day her mother caved in and Missy came into her life. More than 20 years later, the Australian native and her wife continue to fill their family with pets, and upon moving to Barcelona, they bought two Miniature Pinschers, Zac and Hunter. “Your dogs pick you. You do not always pick them,” smiled Laing. “We saw Hunter from the street. He was in a pet shop window and was dying and I felt like I had no choice but to get him.” Six years later, Laing said Hunter has become her soul mate. In Catalunya, there are many animals awaiting human mates. Spain struggles with the highest pet abandonment rate in Europe, with approximately 110,000 dogs and 35,000 cats found each year. Every summer pets are left to fend for themselves as owners go on holiday, many often having bought their animals on a whim or as Christmas presents. Six months later, the novelty has worn off and they are left on the streets. In Catalunya alone, there are around 35,000 dogs and 8,000 stray cats roaming free. The difference between Catalunya and the rest of the country, however, is that the majority of strays are picked up by shelters, whereas in other parts of Spain, less than half of the animals are rescued. Founded in 2013, Adopta Un Amic (www.adoptaunamic.org) is a young, not-for-profit organisation that prides itself on connecting the right owner with the right animal. With offices in both Granada and Barcelona, the NGO claims that it finds a home for every dog or cat that passes through its doors. It also ensures that the animals are healthy, something Laing said her pet store puppies were not. “Zac was sick when we got him and very weak with a liver condition. Had we not bought Hunter he would have died as he was being starved to death to make him appear younger.” Laing says she’s now sworn off pet stores for good. For aspiring owners, something to consider when choosing where to buy is that not only are shelter animals often healthier, they’re also cheaper.

Prices are usually around €100-200, whereas in pet shops they can cost anything between €500-1000. Sometimes you don’t even need to go as far as a shelter; with so many cats and dogs running wild, you can find new family members even when you’re not looking for them. “We found Perla under a tree and Sammy by the river near my parent’s house,” said Catalan native, Rosa Condal Valentines of her two Terrier mixes. Having recently added to their growing brood, the 47-year-old and her partner currently have four pets in their chic Raval flat; two dogs (Sammy and Perla) and two cats (Daisy and Alfie), all of whom they found and rescued in and around the small village of Bellcaire d’Urgell, where she is from. Although Condal admits that four pets is a lot of work, she doesn’t see how they could have done it any other way. “They were abandoned and needed a home.” The sale of dogs in pet shops is legal in Barcelona, although it is illegal to display animals in the window. Some of the most popular breeds currently include Mini and Big Pinchers, Jack Russells and smaller dogs like Chihuahuas. Those considering getting a Pitbull should be aware that it is illegal to own one unless you have a license. So once you find your ideal companion, does it really make sense to own a dog in Barcelona? “It’s been great for me,” said Condal. “Sammy’s a country boy but we brought him to the city and both he and Perla adjusted no problem.” As a relatively new pet owner, Condal believes this is a perfect place to raise animals and that the city is dog friendly. “I’ve taken the dogs into the bank, the hairdresser, and even the grocery store let me leave them at the entrance one time when it was raining,” she smiled. Yet for others, living with a dog is too limiting. Cat owner and animal lover, Fiona Brooks said that after pet-sitting a friend’s puppy for four days, the trial run proved that she and her husband weren’t prepared to make the commitment. “We decided against it purely based on the fact that we like going away a lot and it’s harder to find someone to look after a dog than a cat.”

DOG-FRIENDLY BARCELONA RESTAURANTS En Aparte. A lovely French-style bistro in the Born. Lluís el Piadós 2. www.enaparte.es El Filferro. Gastro-tapas bar in Barceloneta. Sant Carles 29. www. restaurante-filferro.com BioCenter. Delicious vegetarian locale in the Raval. Pintor Fortuny 25. www.restaurantebiocenter.es Cornelia and Company. A trendy concept store and restaurant in the Eixample. València 225. www.corneliaandco.com Federal. With two locations, one in Poble Sec and the other in the Gotico, this is a great breakfast/brunch spot that’s very dog friendly. Parlament 39 and Passatge de la Pau 11. www.federalcafe.es PARKS Park Ciutadella. This is Barcelona’s oldest and most popular public park with plenty of space for dogs to run around off-leash. Joan Miro Park. Perfect if you live around Sant Antoni, this park covers four city blocks and has a lot of space to go walking. The Gardens of Villa Amelia. Beautiful private gardens that were remodelled and turned public. Ideal if you’re close to Sarria-Sant Gervasi. Poblenou Central Park. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, there’s a lot of greenery surrounded by the city’s new ‘Silicon Valley’, in Poblenou.

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Although Brooks maintains that Barcelona is a great city for dogs for those whose lifestyles are conducive to it, her main issue is that owners don’t pick up enough after their pets. “It’s very irritating for people who don’t have dogs,” said the 32-year-old personal trainer. As someone who spends most of her days in parks around town, she’s weary when it comes to training on the grass as she’s afraid she’s going to put her hand in poo, something that’s unfortunately become quite commonplace. “It’s disgusting,” she said.

barcelona has yet to go as far as cities like tarragona and ZaragoZa, which are planning to use a dna database of registered dogs to match it with droppings found on the streeT In response to the ‘fertiliser’ problem, the city has enacted a law that slaps a €1,500 fine on owners who don’t immediately pick up after their pets, although looking at the pavements around town, it doesn't seem to be having the desired effect. Barcelona has yet to go as far as cities like Tarragona and Zaragoza, which are planning to use a DNA database of registered dogs to match it with droppings found on the street, so that they can identify and track down the owners. Eighty-five-year-old and long standing Gotico resident, Carlos Martinez, says he’s not only sick of stepping in poo in the streets, he’s fed up with his neighbour’s dog who ‘does his business’ in the stairwell. “If you’re going to have a dog, you have to train it,” sighed the Andalusia native waving his cane in frustration. In addition to the mess, he says he can’t take the barking either. “From 6am until I go to bed, all I can hear is that dog howling, from three flights up,” he lamented. When it comes to owning dogs in this city, space, or the lack thereof, can mariah Quesada, pictured with her dog olive, feels that exposure to animals makes one more compassionate.

be a problem. Not only are apartments small, often with paper-thin walls and very little privacy, but there is also a shortage of green spaces. Staunch animal lover and long-time dog owner, Mariah Quesada said she deliberated for a long time before deciding to get a dog, simply due to the lack of greenery. “I was really resistant to the idea,” said the Seattle native who has grown up with animals her entire life. “In general there are a lot of small spaces, small apartments and plenty of cement.” Although there are parks in and around town, neighbourhoods aren’t always within close proximity to sprawling lawns. Despite the fact that Barcelona’s in the midst of expanding its dog-friendly zones, currently there are only 105 areas for dogs, most of them averaging 300-400 m2. For those who think the beaches are a viable option—they’re not. The sandy coastline is out of bounds with a ban between April and October and a strict ‘on-leash’ policy during the winter months. Yet after weighing up the pros and cons, Quesada decided to bite the bullet and eight months after adopting her seventh dog, Olive, her doubts have dissipated. Although she could do without the six-storey walk up to her apartment three to four times a day, she admitted that she’s been smiling and laughing more since her feisty ‘Salchicha mix’ came onto the scene and that she manages to get to the park quite often. On the whole, she feels that she wouldn’t be the person she is today without having grown up with animals.

RESOURCES WEBSITE. SRperro.com. An excellent urban guide for all you need to know for pet owners in the city. BOOK. ‘Barcelona Con Perro’ (2014) by Micaela de la Maza. DOG AND CAT ADOPTION AGENCIES Save A Life. www.savealife.es Gatos en Adopcion. www.gatosenadopcion.com Barcelona Gat I Gos. www.barcelonagatigos.org 8 Patas. www.8patas.es GROOMING SERVICES Peluqueria Canina. www.samoaestilistescanins.com Pilar Garrido. www.pilargarrido.com PET SITTERS Maud Zinck Van Den Berg. Dog trainer & sitter with plenty of land near her house, excellent for dogs to run around. maudvdberg@gmail.com DogBuddy. The dog equivalent of Airbnb where you can find suitable dog sitters for short or long periods of time. es.dogbuddy.com Fido’s Playground. If you’re at the office all day and can’t break away to walk the little one, this dog walking service is ideal. They usually only need a day’s notice and can travel almost anywhere in the city. They also provide dog sitting and dog training services. www. fidosplayground.com

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“Exposure to them makes you more compassionate,” said the 38-yearold. “Animals have offered me companionship, love and laughter and they’re also a source of security when you’re feeling vulnerable.” And Barcelona’s renowned ‘dog guru’, (www.doghelps.com), Maud Zinck Van Den Berg, agreed, saying that the connection between dogs and people is very important and ultimately it doesn’t matter where you raise them. What it really comes down to is meeting their needs. “I don’t care how big or small your apartment is and I don’t think the dog does either. What matters is what you do with them in that space,” explained the 29-year-old Dutch child psychologist who’s been living and breathing animals since the age of eight. Van Den Berg maintains that the key to a happy dog is ‘brainwork’ such as teaching them tricks, doing exercises and playing games, as well as knowing what kind of dog suits you and your lifestyle. “If you have a Border Collie they need to work. If you put her in a small apartment or a massive house but do nothing with her, she’ll be bored because you’re not giving her what she needs.” “Guidance,” said Van Den Berg, explaining that even before teaching commands and tricks, owners need to learn about their behaviour in order to fully ‘get’ them. “Dogs spend all day trying to understand us, so if you can understand them, you’ll have a partner for life.” Making sense of why these creatures do what they do takes a lot of time, energy and patience, things that potential pet owners need to consider before taking the leap. Life with a pet also requires more planning and can lose an element of spontaneity and freedom. Then there’s the cost factor. On average, for a relatively healthy dog, the first year of ownership will cost €1,000—all domestic pets in Spain must be identified by microchip, and various vaccinations, including rabies, are compulsory. Each subsequent year hovers around €500, and that doesn’t factor in unexpected, late night visits to the emergency room, which can cost €180 for an overnight stay and between €50-100 for any x-rays, blood work or additional procedures. This is something Laing and her partner know all too well. During the past year they watched as their oldest dog Zac fought kidney disease. “We had him on a special diet, we tried alternative medicine, and he was going to the vet every three weeks for blood tests,” said Laing. In the end it was clear he had had enough and the couple made the painful decision to put him down. As the city continues taking steps to encourage a pet-friendly vibe, potential laws are on the horizon to shut down stores selling animals that come from puppy mills; the idea being to control the city’s animal population while discouraging unlicensed and often inhumane breeders. Another prospect in the works is the introduction of an easily accessible dog friendly beach. Currently, a petition with 31,000 signatures is circulating with owners promising to, 'keep the beaches clean and behave responsibly regarding any possible inconveniences pets can cause'. Whether either of these laws come to fruition has yet to be seen, however, it’s the complicity and desire for mutual respect between owners and non-owners, that’s helped turn Barcelona into one of the most dog friendly cities in Europe. For those toying with the idea of adding a furry family member this year, take comfort in photographer and writer, Roger Caras’s, words: “Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole.” Just make sure you’re ready for the commitment.

THE ANIMAL CENSUS I N SPA I N

5,400,000 DOGS

3,800,000 CATS

m 3,950,00

5,320,000 PARROTS

FISH

2,030,000 OTHER

FACT In 2013 49.3% of Spanish households (a total of 16.1 million) had a pet, a figure that has grown considerably in the last 10 years, which is still lower than in other more developed European countries. Source: ANFAAC

on the cover, rocco, a bichon maltese. cover photo by toby golus.

ILLEGAL BREEDS A Royal Decree in 2002 restricted a number of potentially dangerous dog breeds. Potential owners must be over 18, not have a criminal record, obtain a license that certifies their mental and physical health and have liability insurance to the tune of €120,000. American Pitbull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier Dogo Argentino, English Bull Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier Rottweiler, Akita inu, Brazilian Mastiff, Tosa Inu

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All the fun of the fair ONE OF THE OLDEST THEME PARKS IN THE WORLD, THE TIBIDABO AMUSEMENT PARK HAS BEEN ENTERTAINING THE INHABITANTS OF BARCELONA FOR GENERATIONS. TEXT BY CLARE SHEPPARD.

ver the past century, film directors, such as Fritz Lang and Michelangelo Antonioni, and artists like Edward Hopper, emphasised the clinical isolation of the post-industrial city; the wasteland where loneliness stirs over nightcaps in bars. It is the place in which our modern lust for material wealth has reassembled us as machines dedicated to the toil of the workplace. Barcelona does not escape the monotony of the daily grind; ennui being most palpable along a 7pm trudge through the seemingly never-ending tunnel at Passeig de Gràcia. And yet, the cityscape of Barcelona possesses an ample range of beguiling attractions to tempt its inhabitants from the servile slog and remind us that, in Roald Dahl’s assertion, “A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men”. Its most enduring playground stands enticingly above the city, crowning the hill of Tibidabo in the Serra de Collserolla. For over a century, residents and visitors have come to delight in the magical terrain of Tibidabo amusement park. At the end of the 19th century, the entrepreneurial pharmacist Salvador Andreu i Grau sought to bring the mountain of Tibidabo to the city’s residents. Doctor Andreu, who had made his fortune on cough pastilles and was a sometime property developer, planned to urbanise Tibidabo, which literally translates as ‘I’ll give it to thee’— words based on the devil’s temptations of Jesus in the desert. The first step in opening up the mountain was the implementation of a tram service which became affectionately known as the ‘Tibidabo Tramvía Blau’. Indeed, in its infancy, it was the novel transportation system that initially spurred folk up the mountain, as the park itself consisted of only a few small amusements: telescopes, binoculars and automats. The collection of the latter became so celebrated that upon visiting the park in 1957, Walt Disney sought, in vain, to purchase the

Above: Tibidabo Amusement Park in its epoca dorada. Left: Margarida Calpena and her family (pictured in 1968) have fond memories of the park.

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Opened in 1928, the Aviò is still soaring over the city.

FOR OVER A HUNDRED YEARS, RESIDENTS HAVE BEEN DRAWN UP TO TIBIDABO TO PLAY OUT SOME OF LIFE’S MILESTONES UPON THE MOUNTAIN’S STAGE. collection. From 1921 onwards, the park installed more thrilling rides, such as Atalaya (1921), the emblematic Aviò (1928) and Muntanya Rusa (1961), which still exist today. By the interwar years, Tibidabo had garnered much fame; perhaps an innocent reflection of the indulgences associated with the ‘Roaring Twenties’. But such innocence was short lived, and within 20 years, in January 1939, Franco’s militia appeared amidst the amusements dotted on the crown of the great hill. The city fell into the hands of the usurper, and Tibidabo amusement park to collectivism. It returned to the hands of the Andreu Family in the Forties, following which the playground acquired more modern rides and amusing distractions. The number of visitors soared, particularly during the Fifties, its golden age. In 1966, in the latter part of his rule, General Franco himself visited the park, treating children to a jaunt on the rides. A democratic Spain saw the modernisation of the park with a number of new attractions installed, and the creation of theatrical events such as acrobatic shows. By the late Nineties, under the control of local businessman Javier de la Rosa, the future of the park was shaken by various financial tremors, which led, in 2000, to its takeover by the Ajuntament. In 2010, the park suffered its greatest tragedy when a 14-year-old girl was killed in an accident on the Pedulò. A shadow fell upon the mountain, its joyous escapism tarnished by tragedy. Understandably, its visitor numbers slumped. Gradually, the park recovered its allure; life reasserting itself. By 2014, the attraction boasted

The park’s unique vantage point is perhaps its biggest attraction.

its highest attendance since 2002. The upward trend has continued and in August this year a record number of customers (165,464) were registered. For over a hundred years, residents have been drawn up to Tibidabo to play out some of life’s milestones upon the mountain’s stage. Margarida Calpena, a retired teacher from Barcelona, spoke to me about her first date, which took place there in 1970. “We probably took the Tibidabo aeroplane, which is what everybody did in those days. The witch’s castle was a must, too, although it was dark and girls like me did not feel comfortable there in case the boy you were with wanted to steal a kiss from you. But that was not the case with Jordi.” She went on to reflect on her earlier memories of the park: “My previous memories go further back, to the Sixties. It was a big thing, a sort of family event. You paid for every ride, not like now, where you pay an entrance fee for the whole lot. There was a man selling candy floss as you entered, but we always brought our own food. Money was tight in those days. Oh, and there was a big hall with those mirrors that altered your image, and those mechanical figures that moved with a coin. It was all pretty scruffy, till they decided to give the whole thing a revamp, and it has kept ticking since then.” In 2006, Philippa Davies, a native of Wales, moved to Barcelona and decided to celebrate her first birthday in the city at the theme park. Since her arrival two months earlier, she had become aware of, and drawn to, the mountain’s leafy presence, its proximity and accessibility. She did not yet know where her journey in the new city would take her, but as she and her friends dashed to the park at dusk, just in time to make the rides before closing, she looked down upon Barcelona, taking in the enticing glory of the Ciutat Comtal, and knew that the path she had found herself on was to be an invigorating one. The mountain of Tibidabo assumes a comforting resoluteness above Barcelona’s urban scramble. On its crown lies an amusement park which has demonstrated its resilience in the face of war, financial woes and tragedy. It has been the wonderland above the cityscape in which memories, such as those of Margarida and Philippa, have been fashioned. The gleeful squeals of pleasure seekers and soaring visitor numbers are testament to the fact that it continues to be so, testament to its capacity to cast its magical spell over our sometimes humdrum lives.

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WHAT’S ON

MUSIC 3rd. Craft Spells. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. Tori Sparks. Heliogàbal. Ramón y Cajal 80. 5th. Joris Delacroix. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 6th. Andre Buljat. Pacha. Passeig Marítim 38. 7th. Kings of Convenience. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 8th. Jay-Jay Johanson Razzmatazz 2. Pamplona 88. 9th. Vida Festival 2015 Nothing Places. Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm. Rosselló 515. 10th. Vintage Trouble. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 11th. Izal. Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7. 12th. Jealousy Mountain Duo. Casal Jove de Roquetes. Vidal i Guasch 16. 15th. Periphery. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

VINTAGE SOUL

VINTAGE TROUBLE. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. DECEMBER 10TH. New on the scene, Vintage Trouble’s soulful sound is taking the world by storm. They have even been compared to the godfather of soul himself, James Brown. In only five years, they have supported bands like The Rolling Stones and The Who, and have played numerous festivals, including South by Southwest and Coachella. In short, Vintage Trouble have been rapidly taking over the music scene with their soulful sound. Whether you want to dance, twist or rock, their brand of clean, soulful Sixties R&B is sure to do the trick. Hailing from Los Angeles, they spent their short-lived early years playing hometown clubs. Their fan base formed quickly and has been growing ever since, spreading internationally. Their performances on Jool’s Holland and Letterman are proof of why this band has become so popular.

16th. Els Pets. BARTS. Para·lel 62. 17th. Anna Netrebko. Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6. 18th. Solomun. Underclub. Tarragona 141. 18th. Los Suaves. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 19th. Anímic. Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 21st. Raphael-Festival Millenni 2015. Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 22nd. Sweet California. BARTS. Para·lel 62. 23rd. Shinedoe. Club 4. Rambla de Catalunya 4. 30th. Carlos Nuñez. Palau de la Música Catalana. Palau de la Música 4-6.

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MUSIC IS MOMENTS

SOLOMUN. UNDERCLUB. TARRAGONA 141. DECEMBER 18TH. Serbian native Solomun is returning to Barcelona’s Underclub this December, to give the city a second helping of his unique brand of house. His career in DJing started in 2002 and was soon followed by his entrance into the world of production. Now a firmly established producer, he has played an influential role in defining European house music. Deconstructing, reconstructing, adding, sampling; Solomun’s music is a sonorous delight. As Resident Advisor put it, his DJ sets “take the very building blocks of house music and sensitively reconstruct them.” Not happy with restricting himself to DJing and producing, Solomun has also contributed to the preservation of Ibiza’s house scene.

FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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HIGHLIGHT

CARLOS AND THE CHIEF

CARLOS NUÑEZ. PALAU DE LA MÚSICA CATALANA. PALAU DE LA MÚSICA 4-6. DECEMBER 30TH. Micah P. Hinson, Nicola Di Bari, Raphael and Joan Dausà are just a sample of the talent that will be performing during the 17th edition of Banc Sabadell Festival Mil.lenni this month. One of the festival highlights, renowned Galician bagpiper Carlos Nuñez, returns to Barcelona on December 30th to ring in the new year early. This show will be a little different from previous performances as he will be accompanied by the founder and leader of The Chieftains, Paddy Moloney. Together they will combine their unique traditional sound to pay tribute to Moloney’s legendary band. This year’s festival started last month and will continue until May 21st 2016. Events will be held in a number of venues around the city, including L’Auditori, BARTS, Barcelona Arts on Stage, Gran Teatre del Liceu and Palau de la Música Catalana, and there are many more acts to come.

N.COM

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WHAT’S ON

ART

HIGHLIGHT

OPENINGS

FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Tàpies: An Artist’s Collection. An exclusive chance to look around the private collection of art collector Antoni Tàpies, with works of modern western art and by the artist himself. December 12th and January 9th. Aragó 255. BACKGROUND STORE AND GALLERY Disfigurements. Works by 10 young artists that deconstruct figurative illustration and explore the pictorial panorama that street art has to offer. December 3rd until January 13th. Joaquin Costa 38. ARTS SANTA MONICA The Imperative Eye. María Ruido seeks to analyse the lasting political, economic and representative mechanisms of colonialism and neocolonialism in North Africa. November 17th until January 10th. La Rambla 7. LAST CHANCE LA XINA A.R.T. El món segons Rosamon - El segon món del rodamón. Artist Marc Vilallonga presents his work, which takes you on a trip down memory lane, exploring the strange realities in which we live as children, through photography, collage and sculpture. Until December 5th. L’Hort de la Bomba 6. ARTEVISTAS Topografía Humana. Through scuplture and drawings, young artist Gil Gelpi seeks to destroy the border between body and mind, to reveal a state of unconsciousness. Until December 6th. Passatge del Crèdit 4. CCCB World Press Photo 15. Now in its 11th year, this travelling exhibition showcases the photos awarded in the prestigious international photojournalism competition. The 134 images are stunning, shocking, alive and real. Until December 13th. Montalegre 5. MUSEU MARÍTIM DE BARCELONA Seven ships, seven histories. This exhibition of ship-related objects and artefacts tells stories of conflict, leisure, discovery, transportation, piracy, travel and technological change. Until December 31st. Les Drassanes.

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CATALAN MASTER

XAVIER GOSÉ (1876-1915). MNAC. PARC DE MONTJUÏC. DECEMBER 11TH - MARCH 20TH. This exhibition showcasing the best of Xavier Gosé, one of the most influential Catalan artists of the early 20th century, is the latest in a series by the MNAC dedicated to highlighting the work of the region’s most revered artists. Gosé was born in 1876 and began his career as an illustrator. In 1900, he moved to Paris and soon became known for his elegant artwork, which mostly portrayed everyday scenes of French society at the time. From ladies lounging in cafes and people strolling along the boulevards, to horse racing and sportspeople, he brought the French capital to life with his trademark style. When the effects of World War I began to be felt in Paris, Gosé moved back to Catalunya, and unfortunately died shortly afterwards from tuberculosis. This exhibition coincides with the centenary of his death and celebrates his legacy in both the Catalan and international worlds of art.

REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE

DRAP-ART ‘15. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. DECEMBER 18TH - JANUARY 3RD. Back again in the run up to Christmas, Drap-Art ’15, the International Creative Recycling Festival of Catalonia, reminds us of the responsibility that should accompany the frenzy of consumerism associated with this time of year. The festival will be split into eight categories to demonstrate the possibilities of creative recycling: group exhibitions, intervention in public spaces, space for thought and discussion, traditional art and design, workshops, performances, audiovisuals and environmental cinema. With the aim of creating a space to display cutting-edge creative recycling, the festival looks to strike a balance between local, international, established and emerging artists, with the development of creative recycling always the focus. With its mantra of Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, Drap-Art—founded in Barcelona in 1995—seeks to acquaint the public with the dangerous effects of overconsumption and encourages people to consume more responsibly.

FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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AGE OF TECHNOLOGY

CATALONIA IN VENICE. SINGULARITY. LA VIRREINA. LA RAMBLA 99. DECEMBER 17TH- FEBRUARY 14TH. Themes of perception, inner drives of mankind and the ultimate fear of technology taking over the human race were the inspiration behind this project by Catalan director and film producer Albert Serra, which investigates the tension between the creative genius of mankind and the threat that this creativity poses. Entitled ‘All The World’s Future’, this audio-visual installation was presented at the 56th International Art Exhibition in Venice this year, where Serra’s project represented Catalan artists and their ideas on the matter. It explores singularity— the hypothetical future when artificial intelligence will surpass that of humans. The exhibition’s curator, Chus Martínez explained, “The intention is to create a large visual set of circumstances…a series of suggested ‘facts’ that envisage the images produced in our time and the way they can be overcome.” In today’s age of technological advancements, the way we perceive our world and the fears that we have towards it are the focus of Serra’s exhibition, using cinema as a mean of exploring the singularity condition and how technology both helps and hinders our perception and understanding of the world.

ARIBAU 87, 2.2A, 08036, Barcelona OFFICE: 93 952 3283 | MOBILE: 675 803 210 service@tiviprint.es | www.tiviprint.es

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WHAT’S ON

MISC.

PARTY ANIMALS

PEPPA PIG TOUR. FIRA BARCELONA. AV. REINA MARIA CRISTINA. DECEMBER 27TH30TH, JANUARY 2ND-4TH. WWW.UNDIACONPEPPAFESTIVAL.COM. This Christmas, it isn’t just Santa Claus and the Three Kings paying a visit to the children of Barcelona, because Peppa Pig and her friends will be in Barcelona as part of their Spanish tour. The event is part of the annual Festival de la Infancia, which aims to provide a fun and educational environment for children to develop through play, and takes place this year from December 27th until January 4th. The popular children’s TV series will be brought to life on stage with live performances. Alongside, there will be interactive areas for children to play games and take part in creative workshops, which are all based on the adventures of Peppa, George, Suzy and their animal friends. The characters themselves will be present throughout the four-hour event to meet, greet and share in the excitement. This is one Peppa Pig adventure that your children can actually be a part of.

FROM ANOTHER PLANET

BLOOD ON THE CAT’S NECK. TINTA ROJA. CREU DELS MOLERS 17. DECEMBER 3RD-5TH. Trap Door Theatre’s production of the Seventies German play, Blood on the Cat’s Neck, takes to the Tinta Roja stage in Poble Sec for a week at the beginning of the month. The absurdist nature of the play fits perfectly into the surroundings of Tinta Roja, a space which defines itself as somewhere between variety theatre and circus. The hour-long, English-language play explores the idea of how an alien might view humanity, the alien in question being Sixties comic book character, Phoebe Zeitgeist. The story follows her as she makes her way through human encounters on a journey that is headed for decadence and destruction. Trap Door Theatre was established in the early Nineties as a nomadic group that delivered avant-garde expressionism to theatres across Europe, before settling down in Chicago. The company, directed by Beata Pilch, has recently found a new home here in Barcelona and this is the first production by the international branch.

TO SHOP OR NOT TO SHOP... THE SHOPPING NIGHT BARCELONA. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA. DECEMBER 3RD. 8PM-1AM. WWW.THESHOPPINGNIGHT.COM This December, Passeig de Gràcia transforms into a runway for its annual late night of shopping. The stylish Shopping Night was launched five years ago and follows the format of the international ‘Fashion Night Out’ event created by Vogue. Back for its sixth edition, Passeig de Gràcia, as well as adjacent streets and the Jardins de Salvador Espriu, will be transformed into a magical spectacle inspired by the plays of William Shakespeare. Over 100 shops, hotels and restaurants will participate, including Zara Home, Massimo Dutti, Levi’s, Swarovski and many more, and the festive celebration extends onto the streets themselves, which will be car-free for the evening. This year, a joint project by the Liceu and the Royal Artistic Circle will bring the magic of Shakespeare classics, such as The Tempest and Romeo and Juliet, to life along Barcelona’s most stylish street. Whether you want to treat yourself to an early present, or you have a long gift list to get through, make the most of the discounts and promotions on offer. And don’t forget to take a breath between shops to enjoy the celebrations by moonlight—the perfect way to kickstart your Christmas shopping.

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HERE I GO AGAIN...

MAMMA MIA! TEATRO TIVOLI. CASP 8. NOVEMBER 26TH-FEBRUARY 27TH 2016. WWW.MAMMAMIA.ES Admit it. Whether or not it’s a guilty pleasure, everybody loves the timeless tunes of ABBA. In 1999, the combined genius of British playwright Catherine Johnson and the composers of ABBA’s music, band members Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus, brought these songs to the West End stage. An enchanting story of love, friendship and identity, the musical is the ultimate feel-good, if cheesy, show that tells the story of one young bride-to-be, her mother and her father—or, more accurately, her three potential fathers. The film adaptation in 2008 took the world by surprise, with a stellar cast that included Meryl Streep and Pierce Brosnan. With a worldwide audience of over 60 million people, this winter the box-office smash hit is getting another reinvention, this time through language (and not Brosnan’s questionable singing talents). Both the script and the songs have been translated into Spanish, and because we all know these tunes already, perhaps take this theatre trip as an opportunity to practise your Spanish and enjoy a refreshing new take on this modern classic.

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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OFF THE HOOK

DYLAN MORAN. SALA APOLO. DECEMBER 4TH. WWW.BARCELONACOMEDYFESTIVAL.COM. ‘Less words, more physicality’ is how Dylan Moran describes his new show Off the Hook, which is quite hard to believe from a comedian known to most of us as a man of many words. The Edinburgh-based Irish master of comedy is bringing his unique humour to Barcelona’s Apolo theatre as part of this year’s Barcelona Comedy Festival. More than just a comedian, he’s also a dab hand at writing, acting and illustrating. Moran is wellknown for his series, Black Books, written by Dylan and Graham Linehan (writer of Father Ted). He plays a cynical bookshop owner, plagued by the mundane trivialities of life in London. Based on the success of his previous tours—Monster, What It Is and Yeah, Yeah—Off the Hook is sure to be a sell-out gig. Inspiration for the material comes from our relationship with technology, the idea of never being available, despite constantly being available to each other via technology. He explores the effects of this modern phenomenon on our mind and soul. Moran focuses on the art of conversation, picking and choosing the comic elements in the endless drivel we talk and type, delivering it in his typical, witty, rambling style. Like the wine that Moran is so fond of on stage, his talents are maturing with age.

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PUBLIC HOLIDAY: LA INMACULADA CONCEPCIÓN

AUTORETRO BARCELONA Whether you're a collector or an admirer, this display of classic motors will get your engines

NOA The multilingual singer celebrates her 25th year in the music industry. 9pm. Gran Teatre del

ST GERMAIN The French pioneer in Nu Jazz celebrates 20 years of musical success. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.10pm.

FIRA SANTA LLÚCIA CHRISTMAS MARKET With over 300 stalls selling an array of beautiful decorations, this Christmas market is open throughout December. 10.30am. Plaça Nova. Until 23rd.

MAMMA MIA! Get practising both your Spanish and your singing with a theatre trip to see this box-office hit. 8pm. Teatre Tivoli. Casp 8. Until February 2016.

PETITE MESSE SOLENNELLE This classical choir performance commemorates the International Day of Human Rights. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

WEDNESDAY

TUESDAY

JAY-JAY JOHANSON

MONDAY

ATÁVICO Brazilian choreographer Poliana Lima brings poetry to movement with a performance exploring

EN JAN TITELLA A child-friendly performance that brings the magic of music and puppets together. Various times. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 1st-4th.

THE SHOPPING NIGHT BARCELONA This year’s shopping evening is inspired by the works of William Shakespeare. 8pm. Various locations in Passeig de Gracia.

THURSDAY

BISCUIT DECORATION Make tasty treats to enjoy yourself or to give as homemade gifts at this workshop. 6pm. Centre

CIRC RALUY: ALTIUS Enjoy the magic of the circus, from acrobatics to rollerdancing. 5pm. Port Vell. Moll de la Fusta. Until February 14th.

DYLAN MORAN The star of popular comedy show 'Black Books' brings his Irish stand-up show 'Off the Hook' to Barcelona. 8.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

FRIDAY

FESTIVALET This craft fair with gastronomy, textile and publication sections will get your creative juices

CARMEN DE BIZET It’s the penultimate night of this opera that, in two acts, brings this classic tale to life. 6pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. November 20thDecember 6th.

PUBLIC HOLIDAY: DÍA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN PALO ALTO MARKET Barcelona’s most popular market is back for a special Christmas edition. 11am. Pellaires 30.

LOST & FOUND MARKET Back for the final time this year, the popular second-hand market returns with vintage goods . Esta-

TWO MARKET: CHRISTMAS SPECIAL Stock up on some bargain Christmas presents for your vintageloving friends. 11am. Ovella Negra de Poblenou. Zamora 78.

SUNDAY

SATURDAY

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For more information visit our website

DECEMBER 2015

WHAT'S ON

CALENDAR.indd 7

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MAGIC FOUNTAIN CHRISTMAS SPECIAL The much-loved Christmas music and water show returns. 8pm. Av. Reina Maria Cristina. December 6th- January 3rd.

CRIB EXHIBITION An exhibition showcasing various cribs and figurines. 9am. Centre de Cultura Popula. Maspons 6. December 4th-January 17th.

THE BIG BET SWING BAND & SAX ATTACK An evening of swing and smooth jazz. 11pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

CARLOS NÚÑEZ Considered one of the world's best bagpipers, the Galician musician performs his interpretation of Celtic music. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

MIRÓ Y EL OBJETO This exhibition explores how the painter used objects in his masterpieces. Fundació Joan Miró. Parc de Montjuic. Until Jan 2016.

ANIMALS AND PHARAOHS Over 400 works explore the Egyptians' fascination with animals. CaixaForum. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Until January 10th.

XAVIER GOSÉ (1876-1915) Works by the 20th-century Catalan artist. MNAC. Parc de Montjuic. December 11th- March 20th.

XD YOUNG FEST This festival combines extreme sports and music. 10am. Fira Barcelona. Reina Maria Cristina. Until January 4th.

JV & 2MOONS Formed in Barcelona, this group brings together blues, reggae and acoustic rock. 10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

THE VOICES OF JUBILATION This Grammy-winning gospel choir sing seasonal classics, celebrating the legendary Ray Charles. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ELS PETS These Eighties rockers and one of the best groups to have come out of Catalunya return to Barcelona. 9pm. Sala Barts. Paral·lel 62.

HANDEL’S MESSIAH Enjoy an expressive rendition of Handel’s greatest masterpiece. 9pm. Basilica de Santa María del Mar. Santa Maria 1.16th-18th.

CHRISTMAS PASTRY WORKSHOP Learn to bake traditional Catalan pastries. Prior registration required. 6pm. Centre Cívic El Sortidor. Pl Sortidor 12.

LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR The opera that tells of Scottish lovers from two feuding families. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. Various dates.

OPERA Y FLAMENCO 15

NICOLA DI BARI The two-time winner of the Italian Sanremo Music Festival performs as part of the Mil·lenni Festival. 9pm. Auditori. Lepant 150. Aristides Maillol 12.

NOA The multilingual singer celebrates her 25th year in the music industry. 9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

MIRA FESTIVAL 28

LITTLE BOOTS

WORLD PRESS PHOTO 2015 See the winning photographs before they complete their residency in Barcelona. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Until 13th.

PUBLIC HOLIDAY: LA INMACULADA CONCEPCIÓN

AUTORETRO BARCELONA Whether you're a collector or an admirer, this display of classic motors will get your engines going. Fira Barcelona. Reina Maria Cristina. 4th-7th.

JAY-JAY JOHANSON The Swedish trip-hop singer brings his experimental music to Barcelona. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

BARCELONA NEW YEAR CHIMES An impressive fireworks display and a performance from Catalan theatre group La Fura dels Baus ends 2015 in style. 11.30pm. Av. Reina Maria Cristina.

NEW YEAR'S EVE PARTY It's party time at the Poble Espanyol. 12am. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13.

MIDNIGHT MASS AT SANTA MARIA DEL MAR Celebrate Christmas at this beautiful service. Basílica de Santa María del Mar. Time TBC.

FERIA DE REYES BARCELONA T’was the night before Christmas...a market of crafted food, sweets, toys and more. 11am. Gran Vía. December 19thJanuary 6th.

ITALIAN CINEMA FILM FESTIVAL The best of Italian cinema from the past year comes to Barcelona. Various times. Cines Verdi Barcelona. Verdi. Verdi 32. 11th-17th.

MUSIC STRIKES BACK Star Wars and other soundtracks by John Williams are performed by the Camera Musicae Orchestra. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

OJOS DE DIOS A workshop demonstrating the skill of the Mujeres Mayores who make these traditional amulets. 7pm. Casa del Rellotge.

ATÁVICO Brazilian choreographer Poliana Lima brings poetry to movement with a performance exploring violence. 8.30pm. Hiroshima. Vila i Vilà 67.

A DAY WITHMAGIC PEPPAFOUNTAIN PIG MONTJUIC

NATIVITY SCENE IN PLAÇA SANT JAUME The story of the Nativity is told outside Barcelona Town Hall. Ajuntament de Barcelona. Plaça Sant Jaume I. 10am. 28th November- 6th January.

25 MERRY CHRISTMAS!

ROSARIO This Latin Grammy award winner of gypsy origin brings her stellar voice to Barcelona. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD Narration is put aside as dance tells the gruesome subplot of this fairytale. 8.30pm. Hiroshima. Vila i Vilà 67. 18th-20th.

EAT STREET The gastronomical festival returns, presenting new faces for the coming year of 2016. 12pm. Poblenou. Venue TBC.

BISCUIT DECORATION Make tasty treats to enjoy yourself or to give as homemade gifts at this workshop. 6pm. Centre Cívic Casa del Rellotge. Zona Franca 116.

ST STEPHEN'S DAY CONCERT The annual concert is back, with choral performances celebrating the first martyr of Christianity, including a performance from the Cor de Cambra del Palau. 7pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

A DAY WITH PEPPA PIG Join Peppa and her friends for some festive adventures. Various times. Fira Barcelona. Reina Maria Cristina. Until 30th.

COME AND SING WITH...THE BEATLES AND TRAU! A concert where you can sing along to your favourite Beatles songs. 4pm & 6.30pm. Auditori. Lepant 150.

26 PUBLIC HOLIDAY: DÍA DE SANT ESTEVE

JOHANN STRAUSS: GREAT NEW YEAR’S CONCERT An orchestral performance accompanied by ballet. 7pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 25th, 27th, 31st.

BUFF EPIC RUN BARCELONA 2015 The fancy dress fun run returns. Registration required. Castell de Montjuic.

FANTÀSTIC HANDMADE MARKET BARCEONA Meet the Etsy designers of Barcelona selling all things handmade. 11am. Univeristat de Barcelona. 12th &13th.

LOST & FOUND MARKET Back for the final time this year, the popular second-hand market returns with vintage goods . Estación de Francia. 12th & 13th.

THE MAGIC OF BROADWAY FOR CHRISTMAS Alfonso Casado and the Barcelona Symphony Orchestra bring us Disney’s most-loved songs. 7pm. Auditori. Lepant 150. 19th & 20th.

BRICK LANE BARCELONA The popular vintage market returns, bringing London East Endinspired threads to Barcelona. 12pm. Corretger 5. 19th & 20th.

LITTLE BOOTS Having recently released her third studio album, this electro star is set to impress the crowd. 1am. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

FESTIVALET This craft fair with gastronomy, textile and publication sections will get your creative juices flowing. Museu Marítim. Drassanes. 12th & 13th.

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CULTURE

A Very Catalan

Christmas

‘Tis the season to be jolly, and what better way to celebrate than in typical Catalan fashion. The Christmas season holds a number of dates to be remembered, with some celebrated across the

whole of Spain and others unique to Catalunya. Here are some of the most important traditions on the local Christmas calendar.

8th December The Feast of the Immaculate Conception Seen by many as the start of the Christmas period, on this date decorations are put up, lights switched on and nativity scenes—pessebres— introduced into homes and some public spaces. Always present in the scene is one of Catalunya’s more particular symbols, the Caganer. Essentially a figure caught in the act of defecation, the Caganer is said to represent good luck and fertile land and is depicted in his original form, as well as by models of celebrities and characters such as Obama and Queen Elizabeth II. The city’s main nativity scene is located in Plaça Sant Jaume.

24th December Christmas Eve and THE Caga Tió Taking the form of a log with human features, such as eyes, a nose and the traditional Catalan barretina, the Caga Tió is a popular Christmas custom celebrated across Catalunya. Having been kept warm by a blanket and fed orange peel and turrón every evening since his creation on December 8th, today he is ready to give out the gifts he has been harbouring—but not without some encouragement. This comes from the children of the family, who sing a song and hit him with a stick, causing him to 'excrete' sweets, turrón and nuts.

8

 31



25th-26th December Christmas Day and the Feast of Sant Esteban Whilst Christmas Day is celebrated across Catalunya, it is the 26th of December which features the most typically Catalan culinary tradition of the season. A hearty meal of escudella i carn d’olla—a meaty, slow-cooked stew—is the star on the 25th. The leftovers are then used to provide filling for the canelons, delicious pasta rolls eaten the following day as part of the Feast of Sant Esteban, a holiday commemorating the first known Christian martyr.

 



 6   31st December New Year’s Eve As the year draws to a close, the country celebrates in a number of ways. Lentils are commonly eaten to ensure wealth and prosperity for the coming year, with each lentil representing a coin. At midnight, as the clocks chime 12, a grape is eaten on each stroke. Difficult and hilarious in equal measures, the effort is worth it—if successful you can be sure of good fortune for the next 365 days. A perhaps more enjoyable way to enjoy grapes, cava is also drunk at midnight to ring in the New Year.

28th December The Feast of Los Santos Inocentes Light-hearted practical jokes characterise this cheeky holiday, celebrated in a similar way to April Fool’s day. The ‘Day of the Holy Innocents’ has its roots in the persecution of innocent children by King Herod, but nowadays takes on a more festive feel. One of the most popular pranks is to place a man’s silhouette on people’s backs without them noticing, whilst the media also gets involved, often printing fictional stories. 6th January Epiphany/Three Kings Day On January 5th, the three Kings arrive in Spain. Having left water for their camels, food for the Kings themselves and shoes by the window to be filled with presents, today children can open the gifts that the Kings have left for them overnight. And thus ends the Christmas season, until the magic begins again later in the year.

COOK YOUR OWN Festive FooD If the idea of traditional Catalan Christmas cuisine tickles your tastebuds, why not learn how to create an authentic festive feast. Offering a number of workshops, the Centre Cívic Cotxeres Borrell runs a number of reasonably-priced workshops: find out how to make the perfect panellets dessert, turn your hand to mixing that quintessential Christmas cocktail or learn how to create a simple yet impressive Christmas menu. For more information, visit www. cotxeresborrell.net.

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11/24/15 4:38 PM

Left to right: Joan Armengol with Franco; his son Senen; Coretta Scott King; Adolfo Suarez and Fidel Castro; Richard Nixon

Father and Son A CONVERSATION WITH JOAN ARMENGOL, A PIONEER OF SPANISH JOURNALISM, AND HIS SON SENEN ARMENGOL, MUSIC JOURNALIST AND TV PRESENTER. TEXT BY TORI SPARKS.

wo legends, one family—meet Joan and Senen Armengol, father and son. The first is an award-winning Catalan journalist and a pioneer of radio, television and print media. The second is a current mover, shaker and concert promoter in the world of rock music. The dynamic pair have interviewed thousands of people from all walks of life, but this is the first time that they sit down to interview one another about their respective careers. Joan is a man who could blend into the crowd. He’s dignified, quiet—a grandfatherly gentleman in a dark sweater and striped polo shirt. He wears wire-rimmed glasses and a soft smile. He started out reciting poetry at the municipal radio station in Igualada and went on to become one of the most recognisable figures at RTVE and Barcelona Radio, and the magazines Correo Catalan and Ondas, from the Sixties until the Eighties. He has interviewed countless personalities over the course of his career, from Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí to Richard Nixon, Fidel Castro, Ella Fitzgerald and Grace Kelly, and was one of the founders of the Spanish Academy of Arts and Sciences of Television. His son Senen couldn’t look more different: A familiar face around town, he is never without his Fear and Loathing-style sunglasses. He started out enamoured with the technical aspects of film and music event production, before finally making his debut as a journalist writing for Popular1 and Rock On magazines. This year RTVE aired the first season of his weekly musicvideo programme, ‘2 Many Clips’. He is best known for his work on the feature film The Long Winter, which directly resulted in him being tapped by George Lucas to work on the new Star Wars project at just 19 years old. Once the pair begin to speak, the blood bond between what looks like a pair of polar opposites becomes more obvious. They share a personal and professional philosophy that has led them to each become a media symbol of their generation.

Senen: Ok, Dad, let’s start with the obvious; What made a 14-year-old boy want to go into radio in a tiny Spanish town in 1950? Joan: In the beginning it was a hobby, but I accidentally became sort of a local icon—to the point that one day, I got into a taxi and the guy wouldn’t even allow me to pay him because he recognised my voice and was a fan! At the time, there weren’t a lot of radio personalities in Spain; I became one of the first. S: When and why did you move from Radio Igualada to the bigger station Radio Barcelona? J: I went to Barcelona in 1957, after doing my obligatory military service in Tangier. In Igualada, I’d taught myself everything on the fly—how to work analogue equipment, for example—and had covered all kinds of random events. I learned to adapt. That was an extremely useful skill to have when making the leap from a small town to a bigger city like Barcelona. Going out into the street with a microphone and tape recorder to interview people was just not done at the time. I was doing it, even at 18 years old, so my reputation basically preceded me. S: What is one of the moments that you remember as a personal or professional highlight? J: Well, when the exiled President of the Generalitat de Catalunya, Josep Tarradelles, was finally able to return from hiding out in France after 23 years under Franco’s rule, I was the only person, besides his immediate family, who was invited to make the journey with him in his private plane. That was a huge moment, personally and professionally. S: That is a perfect example of the important role you played in reporting historical events at the height of your career. Why did he pick you? J: Because he trusted me. You have to learn how to inspire trust in the people you interview. And also because I asked him if I could come! Sometimes you’ve got to have the guts to just ask. [Laughs] S: But interviewing exiles wasn’t exactly safe work back then was it? J: No. Not while Franco was in power. The way around that was to leave

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Left to right: Joan Armengol with The Beatles; Mikhail Gorbachev. Senen Armengol.

the introductory question open-ended, so that the interviewee could respond any way he or she liked. The issue of censorship only came up if any so-called controversial topics came out of my own mouth. Censorship controlled every aspect of life in those days, it was a strange time. S: You also interviewed Franco. What was that like? J: It was an interesting and important interview. Of course, I received hate mail and threatening phone calls, but my job was to report the news. That’s what I did. It didn’t always reflect my personal beliefs. S: I remember that one of the interviews that you always talked about as having left a personal impression on you was with Pau Casals. J: He was one of the greatest living artists at the time. But that was not the reason why it meant so much to me and to my audience. He symbolised Catalunya in a moment that was extremely sensitive for all of us. Franco was still alive and Casals represented the freedom we all so desperately yearned for. This interview was also a risk—I was interviewing important political symbols from both sides, in an era when this posed a physical risk to my person. But again, that was the job. S: How many interviews have you done in your lifetime? J: Around 80,000. I’ve lost count. Artists, musicians, politicians, writers, public figures. The most I ever did in one day was somewhere between 80 and 90, which was on the national radio. I’ve been fortunate to have met some incredible people: Rita Hayworth, Orson Welles, The Prince of Monaco, Vittorio Gassman, Cantinflas, Kirk Douglas, Jacques Cousteau— there were just so many. Mostly really nice people. S: At the time, that kind of scope was unheard of. How do you think you affected or inspired the future generations of Spanish or Catalan press? J: There were a lot of things I did ‘first’, but I did them because I followed my gut. There was never a moment when I was innovating just to innovate. That blazed a trail for others to come. S: What was the difference for you when it came to interviewing artists versus politicians, or other types of public figures? How is interviewing Salvador Dalí different from interviewing Fidel Castro, for example?

J: It wasn’t so much a question of what job the person did or the position they held. Some interviews were very formal, others felt like sitting down with old friends. The guy in the photo with Castro (above) was Adolfo Suarez, my boss at RTVE at the time [and later the President of Spain], so interviewing Castro felt more like hanging out with a buddy than interviewing such an important figure. Sounds strange, but it’s true. But you were there with me a lot, Senen. S: For me as a kid, all this was normal. It was part of everyday life to be backstage, or having lunch with an actress or politician or film director. J: How do you think this affected your decision to make your career as a journalist, now that you’ve followed in your old Dad’s footsteps? S: My goal was never to be a journalist, that grew out of my contacts in production work. But observing you at work taught me to value people for what kind of person they are, not for who they are. It taught me that an individual’s public image is something apart from the person themself. What do you think when you see me in front of the camera on RTVE2? J: You’re part of the modern media world, you’ve gone down a different road than I did, but it suits you and I can see some of my style of doing things in the way you work. What are you working on now? S: I’m in the middle of preparing a huge New Years’ Eve special for the second biggest television channel in Spain. We’re also discussing renewing ‘2 Many Clips’ for a second season in 2016, among other projects. J: Always busy. That’s good! That’s the key. S: But what about your plans for the future? I’ve wondered more than once why you haven’t written a book about all of your experiences. Why not write your story? J: I don’t need the headache of former colleagues or acquaintances or grandsons of celebrities coming out of the woodwork and getting upset with me for telling things the way they actually were. The past happened as it happened. I witnessed a lot of it, I have the awards and the photos and the books to prove it. It’s enough. Let sleeping dogs lie, and leave the new adventures to you and the future generations of journalists.

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11/24/15 2:58 PM

FASHION

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TRAVEL

CATALAN HEART WITH THE ANNUAL MEDIEVAL MARKET TAKING PLACE THIS MONTH, MELISSA LEIGHTY TAKES A WALK THROUGH VIC, PAST AND PRESENT. TEXT BY MELISSA LEIGHTY.

ulture, history and a special affinity for sausages, the small Catalan city of Vic makes for an excellent day trip from Barcelona by train or car, or a weekend visit to really capture the atmosphere. Sometimes written as Vich, it is the capital of Osona, a landlocked comarca (county) in central Catalunya, and is located on the banks of the river Mèder almost equidistant (approximately 70 kilometres or so) from Girona and Barcelona. A long and storied history has put Vic on the map, but it remains there, among other reasons, because of its long and fervent political history and the mythical status of its sausage. Not many other cities in the world can hang their hat on that. Founded by an Iberian tribe in the fourth century BC, Vic—then known as Ausa—eventually fell under Roman rule, before the Visigoths arrived and then the Saracens, until it was finally destroyed in 826. It rose from the ashes, due largely to the repopulation of the region and the founding of Osona under the auspices of Wilfred the Hairy in 878. All that remained was a part of the old Roman wall, which remains visible today in the city centre near the cathedral. Since then, life has been much kinder to the city, and it continued to thrive despite the often turbulent medieval era and periods of economic crisis brought on by successive wars. The construction of the railway in 1875 connected the city to Barcelona and helped to secure it as a popular tourist destination. It also hosted the roller hockey events during the 1992 Olympics. These days Vic is looking more festive than usual. The central square is festooned with red and yellow flags that drape vertically from balconies and a jumbo electronic timer left over from the countdown to the recent

elections. Catalans often claim Vic to be one of the strongest bastions of Catalan pride in the region. Recently, it was notably the birthplace of the Association of Municipalities for Independence (Associació de Municipis per la Independència), formed in 2011, as an organisation which aims to further the national rights of Catalunya and to promote the right to selfdetermination.

A TRIP TO VIC IS NOT COMPLETE WITHOUT SAMPLING THE BELOVED LOCAL SAUSAGES, FUET AND LLONGANISSA. A walk through the enchanting old town feels positively quaint. Approaching the town centre from the station, visitors will come upon the Plaça Major—a wide open, unpaved space that hosts the bi-weekly farmers’ market, as well as its famous medieval fair (see right), which the city hosts each December. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the square is filled with vendors selling all sorts of meats, cheeses, vegetables, homemade jams, local honeys and fresh flowers. On other days, it is almost regal. The farmers’ market is a visible reminder of the important crossroads between urban and rural at which the town sits. Hug Vilamala, a pianist living in

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Barcelona and a Vic native, loves his hometown as it offers a “mix between the country and the city”, a balance hard to find in the urban enclave he now calls home. He also appreciates that the city centre, with its small streets, is much like an old Roman centre—the perfect place for a stroll. For others, the town’s primary merit is its long history, and the architecture—a mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Modernista— stands as testament to times gone by. With the market stands gone, the arcaded facades of the old buildings in the Plaça Major are marked with the vestiges of the city’s ancient past, including the pretty clock tower with its Moorish tiles and caged bells above. Like many others, the city was invaded in the second century by the Romans who left behind the remains of a temple. It lies right in the centre of the old city, on the same site as the 11thcentury Castell dels Montcada. Only ruins now remain of the castle, which reveal the Roman temple located in the inner courtyard. The town’s cathedral is situated n the heart of the old town, and the remains of Catalan artist Josep Maria Sert, whose murals grace the central nave, are buried in the cloister. The Catedral de Sant Pere also holds a bust of Jaume Balmes, the preeminent 19th-century philosopher from Vic, but the real draw is the 11th-century tower, which offers visitors a stunning 360-degree view of the city. The cathedral, however, is only one example of the city’s exceptional place in Catholic history. The city is known to many as the ‘saint’s town’ due to the plethora of churches in the area. Thus, it’s no surprise that the Episcopal Museum of Vic (Museo Episcopal de Vic) boasts a fantastic collection of Romanesque religious art, which includes gothic painting, sculpture and adornments. A trip to Vic is not complete, however, without sampling the beloved local sausages, fuet and llonganissa, both products of the local pig farming tradition. It is simply what’s expected, and going home empty handed is not an option. There is also no shortage of excellent restaurants in town where you can try them. It is easy enough to grab a beer and a plate of fuet at a cafe, but if you have time, it’s a good idea to splurge on a full meal. Either way, there are plenty of shops where you can purchase some of these thin cured sausages to hang in the kitchen as a token reminder of your visit. When the last one disappears, it may be a sign that it’s just about time for another trip to Vic.

EATING Restaurant El Caliu. A traditional Catalan eatery specialising in grilled meats. Carrer de la Riera 13. elcaliuvic.com Restaurant D.O. Vic. Catalan dishes with a modern twist. Sant Miquel dels Sants 16. Restaurant El Bohemi. Tapas and main courses as well as torrades and cocas. Plaça de la Pietat 8. Fussimanya. Classic country food in a rural setting that also sells homemade embotits (cured meat). Ctra. Parador, Km. 7, 08519 Tavèrnoles. fussimanya.cat Can Jubany. Three tasting menus starting at €65, which serve up innovative versions of classic dishes. Carretera de Sant Hilari, s/n, 08506 Calldetenes. canjubany.com SLEEPING Seminari Allotjaments. A large hotel with a contemporary look, housed in the old seminary just a short walk from the train station and the town centre. Ronda Francesc Camprodon 2. www.seminarivic.cat El Estació de Nord. Bright, modern, family-run hotel on the top floor of the train station. Plaça Estació 4. www.estaciodenord.com La Riera. A beautiful farmhouse in the countryside very close to the city. La Guixa. www.lariera.cat Mas La Miranda. A large farmhouse priced for groups. Camí Antic de Muntanyola s/n, La Guixa. www.maslamiranda.com

MERCAT MEDIEVAL DE VIC Medieval fairs are a popular highlight in the calendars of many towns in Spain and France, and there’s no better one to visit than the one in Vic. Each year in early December, the city transforms into a medieval village for four days of music, dance, theatre, food and fun, and with around 100,000 visitors, this is one of the most important events in the city. Known as the Mercat Medieval, the festival takes visitors back to the medieval period with musical parades, costumes and street theatre, accompanied by over 300 stalls selling food and handcrafted products, many of which are locally made. An exhibition of birds of prey, such as eagles, falcons, vultures and owls, is always a popular draw. Last year, a new play was introduced to the festival’s agenda—l’Assalt de l’Altarriba. Performed in eight locations throughout the city, the play is based on historical events that took place in Vic in the 15th century. There are plenty of activities for children as well. In the Plaça dels Màrtirs, there are workshops on makeup and costumes, games, fighting knights, mule or pony rides and various children’s shows. If they tire of that, there are always jousting and archery competitions to watch. Mercat Medieval de Vic. December 5-8th. 10am-8pm. www.vicfires.cat

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

SUCULENT

MORE INFO. Rambla del Raval 43. Wed-Sun, 1pm-4pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm. Closed Mon and Tues. €35 per person ✪✪✪

THE FAMED DEN OF GASTRONOMIC DECADENCE REVISITED. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SAM ZUCKER.

ith the esteemed Barcelona chef Carles Abellán (of now-defunct, Michelin-starred restaurant Comerç 24) at the helm, Suculent—a narrow alley of a restaurant with an ample terrace at the foot of the Rambla del Raval—has attracted much attention since opening in 2012. Suculent itself is a play on words, melding images of rich, luscious cuisine with the Catalan term sucar lent—to dip slowly. Everything cooked up in the kitchens here is meant to be savoured until the last drop, and bread is provided for eager diners to sop up every iota of sauce, leaving nothing but clean plates and full bellies. The restaurant’s fame stems mostly from indulgent, rib-padding, standout dishes such as oxtails, bone marrow, meatballs, pork belly, and foie gras. A tinge of sentimentality runs through the entire menu, conjuring the retro cuisine of past generations with dishes like rooster’s crest canapés and traditional monkfish stew. In addition to these classics, you’ll find that the menu has been spruced up to 21st-century standards with plates like Thai pork ribs with young coconut and red prawn ceviche. The service at Suculent is friendly, with helpful staff poised to offer suggestions and guide first-timers through the maze of lesser-known morsels from both land and sea. Our meal began with a scattering of small starters from the para picar (to snack) section of the menu, including an ultra-classic dish: caballa en escabeche. Consisting of three hunks of supple mackerel marinated in an escabeche of vinegar, olive oil, onions, peppers, and perhaps a bit of carrot, the preparation and technique were obviously of a high calibre but my expectation of rich mackerel balanced with the vinegar marinade’s bright acidity were not quite met. The fish fell somewhat flat, and I think that what the caballa could have really used was a touch of salt, a twist of pepper, and a fresh shot of vinegar to liven things up on the plate. Along with the marinated mackerel, our other starters included the ssäm of beef tongue, and a small bowl of lobster roe with Thai chicken broth. Ssäm is a Korean dish literally translating to ‘wrapped’, and is traditionally a little bite of tender pork or other meat (in this case, beef tongue) presented

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✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

on top of some lettuce leaves that serve as a wrapper. I love Korean food and I love beef tongue, and though this version was ably cooked and nicely presented with fine slivers of pickled onion, it was again missing the punch of flavour I associate with this popular dish; the mouth-watering Korean character I was yearning for was nowhere to be found. On the contrary, the lobster roe (also known as coral) was my favourite aspect of the entire lunch experience. Served in a small, heavy, porcelain bowl, the delicate roe was bathed tableside by a stream of hot, lemongrassinfused Thai chicken broth poured by the barman from a petite pitcher. Though the flavour of lobster roe is quite subtle, it shone through the aromatic broth marvellously. For the main course, two dishes on the menu emerged as appealing, not-too-heavy options for a midweek lunch—the grilled squid with foie gras, and the braised squab with beetroot and salsify. My thought process was simple: grilled squid is great and so is foie gras, this dish should be an ace in the hole. Though the technical cooking skill was again spot on, the lack of flavour complexity was still blaringly obvious. I would go as far as to call it bland. Maybe it’s our fault for ordering dishes that reside outside of Suculent’s pantheon of all-time classics, but I was beginning to feel a little disappointed. However, the squab was tender, flavoursome, and wellseasoned, though the real star of the dish was the purée of sautéed squab liver that was hidden inside of the several, paper-thin slices of roasted beetroot that garnished the plate. Having now eaten at both Suculent and La Taverna del Suculent (their tapas bar two doors down), for the price and the variety of food offered, I prefer the latter. Regardless, I still feel that both are well worth a visit. When eating at either place, ask for recommendations from the waiter or bartender and go with the expectation of eating simple yet decadent food in a comfortably casual environment. I would still return to Suculent, but I caution that their good reputation may have caused them to slide a bit into the comfort zone. Perhaps with a little extra attention to detail, this restaurant could be back on top of my list of places for entertaining visitors, or just a solid choice for the occasional, leisurely lunch with friends.

✪✪✪ GOOD

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

11/24/15 12:58 PM

Recipe

SOPA DE GALETS

A typical Catalan Christmas day feast includes sopa de galets as the starter, followed by roast chicken or lamb, or baked fish, then torró and neules (traditional nougat and biscuits), washed down with plenty of cava. A galet is a type of pasta characterised by its shell shape, and those used in the Christmas sopa de galets are large and combined with meatballs to make a hearty festive broth. Difficulty: Medium Preparation time: 3 hours Season: Winter

METHOD INGREDIENTS For the stock 6 litres of water 1 pig’s trotter 1 chicken carcass 2 chicken thighs or breasts 250g veal 1 ham bone 125g Iberian bacon 2 onions 2 large leeks 250g carrots 2 celery leaves 1/2 cabbage 2 potatoes

For the meatballs 150g minced beef 100g minced pork 1 egg 2 garlic cloves (finely chopped) 2 pieces of stale bread Flour, oil, salt, pepper and parsley For the soup 200g large galets 2 litres of stock 250g of meatballs

STOCK 1. Place all the meat in a large pan of cold water over a low heat and cover. When the water starts to boil, skim the foam from the surface and leave it to boil for an hour. 2. Dice the vegetables into small chunks. 3. Add the vegetables to the meat and cook for a further hour and a half. Add salt. 4. Strain the broth and once cool, keep in the refrigerator or freeze. MEATBALLS 1. In a large bowl, mix the minced meat, beaten eggs, garlic cloves and dried bread. Season well and add the chopped parsley. 2. Make small meatballs, about the size of grapes, and roll them in flour. Fry in olive oil until they are golden brown and set aside. SOUP 1. Boil the pasta in a saucepan of salted water for 10 minutes. 2. In a large pan, mix the strained broth, cooked pasta and meatballs. Season to taste and cook all together for two minutes. SUGGESTIONS • Add chickpeas or beans to the stock while boiling. • Use the leftover meat from the strained broth to prepare croquettes. • Use seasonal vegetables. • Prepare the broth a few days before and freeze.

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QUICK BITES

MARKET CUINA FRESCA

MORE INFO. Market Cuina Fresca Badajoz 83 Tel. 93 485 4563 Mon-Fri 8am-5pm €13.50 set menu

CLEAN, CREATIVE EATING FOR THE POBLENOU LUNCH CROWD. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SAM ZUCKER.

arrer de Badajoz in Poble Nou marks the subtle transition from industrial to residential as one heads through this quiet area in the direction of the neighbourhood’s busy rambla. Right at the core of Barcelona’s neo-tech hub ‘@22’, this locale offered the perfect spot for Portuguese chef Tiago Rocha to make his mark. Although it first opened four years ago, Rocha and his team took over Market Cuina Fresca just last year and it now serves as one of the only places in the immediate area to provide a healthy, affordable lunch menu that will leave you satisfied (without the typical 3pm food coma). A native of Oporto, Portugal, Tiago Rocha trained as a chef throughout Europe and brings an extensive repertoire to this bright, little space, earning droves of loyal customers. Currently only opening from 8am until 5pm Monday to Friday, Rocha hopes that the increasing popularity of the area will allow him to also offer a dinner service in the coming year. There is no menu at Market Cuina Fresca, only a set menú del día, with three starters, three main plates, and two desserts to choose from. At least one vegetarian option in each category

Tastings

is typically included, and Rocha shops daily for fresh meat, fish, and produce at Barcelona’s Mercabarna. “I love buying fresh food every day,” said Rocha. “And we always try to use everything that we buy the same day, so it’s top quality.” Beyond Mercabarna, Market Cuina Fresca also sources produce from Conreu Sereny, an organic farm in nearby Badalona. To start, expect clean, flavoursome dishes, like the signature Market Salad (a mix of vibrant greens with cucumber, chayote squash, fennel, and honey mustard vinaigrette) or the Beetroot Gazpacho with a smooth texture, edible flowers, and a nicely refined style of seasoning. For main courses, you’ll find healthy, mouth-watering options such as grilled picaña (a cut of steak, also known as rump cap) with roasted pumpkin and chestnut sauce, seared tuna with Romanesco cauliflower, roasted chicken, salmon with quinoa, marinated sardines, and more. I had the pleasure of sampling the fish of the day upon my latest visit—a perfectly seared fillet of salmon with an earthy purée of roasted aubergine, crisp slices of red radish and blanched asparagus. Rocha’s cooking displays influences from across the globe, including Asia and Central America, but he also lovingly adds a dash of his homeland in the form of Portuguese

coffee, beer, and wine (the house white is a crisp, effervescent Vinho Verde). As Market Cuina Fresca becomes increasingly popular with the young, foreign crowd that populates the offices, converted warehouses, and co-working spaces of this up-and-coming barri, you’re likely to hear five different languages buzzing around as you enjoy a simple, delicious, and creative meal during your lunch hour.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but is now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

OPEN THE BUBBLY

For those who love sparkling wines, this is a great time of year. However, the festive season can be a minefield of lesser bubblies just waiting to hurt your body and soul. Here in Catalunya, there is no reason to reach for the champagne shelf, as we have a more than ample supply of our own bubbly in the form of cava. Maybe you’ve been burned by a cheap cava at some point, and it’s true, there are many bad cavas out there. But after countless tastings in recent years, I can attest that there are also a lot of excellent varieties to keep you interested through the toasts and celebrations that lie ahead. JUVÉ Y CAMPS RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA 2011 Aromatic touches of the barrel aging but very balanced overall. Brioche and red fruits emerge as it opens. Full in the mouth, it holds a

good, fresh acidity that carries through the finish, and year after year it is one of the best value bottles on the market. €15 RECAREDO TERRERS 2008 One of my favourite cava producers, who works completely organically. Fresh, floral aromas along with chalky minerality, and a light perfume that gives way to an elegant mouthfeel with excellent acidity enhanced by the fine bubbles. €17 ALTA ALELLA OPUS EVOLUTIUM 2010 What may be termed a Blanc de Blancs as it is made solely from Chardonnay grapes, this unique and elegant bottle holds light lime peel, fresh cream, and white blossoms to the nose as well as mineral notes and a delicate tinge of brininess. €25

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Bar D9 BAR 4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Fully equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus Parties on Thursdays, and music themed parties on Friday and Saturday. There is always something for everyone.

NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory Carrer Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Open Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking Mexican MALPASO4EIXAMPLE

FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or ‘Vuelve la Vida’, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Star main dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, and the Atún Moctezuma, pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is available at the weekend.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thur 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

Ice Cream BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

MANNA GELATS 4 BARRI GÒTIC

The newly opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place where you can come with friends and family, and enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more.

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

Bagel

Ban ys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Indian / Tandoori BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

SURYA 4EIXAMPLE

Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cosy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs from “The House Party” collective with “Deep Fridays” and Saturday night Funky new disco. Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

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Mediterranean

Bistronomia MALGAM 4 EIXAMPLE

FULLA D’OSTRA 4 EIXAMPLE

Malgam is located in one of the busiest areas of Barcelona, and offers a varied selection of food, from signature tapas, to traditional, Mediterranean-inspired dishes, all made using seasonal produce. The contemporary-style restaurant is divided into three different spaces, adapting to the different needs that result from its long business hours, covering early breakfasts, lunch, a la carte dinners, and a cocktail bar with a DJ on weekends.

Bistronomia Fulla d’Ostra is a restaurant neighbouring the Mercat Galvany. Our Chilean chef, Marcelo Gonzalez, prepares delicious gourmet dishes made with fresh products. The exclusive decorator, Lazaro Rosa Violan, has transformed this small bistro into a charming place, and with the capacity for just eighteen guests, it is both intimate and romantic.

Amigó 39, 08021 Tel. 93 200 8393 hola@fulladotra.com www.fulladostra.com

Aribau 113, 08036 Tel. 93 452 3673 Every day 8am-3pm

Vegetarian/Vegan TAP DE SURO 4 EIXAMPLE

HAPPY DAY VEGETARIANO 4 EIXAMPLE

Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with their authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Located in the heart of Barcelona, Happy Day invites you to share the experience of enjoying healthy, nutritious and, above all, delicious, food. The ingredients are all fresh, seasonal, organic and sourced locally. The menu was designed by nutritionists and includes salads, rice dishes, crepes, veggie burgers, pasta and vegetable dishes. Try the anti-age, detox, ß – Carotene, and protein elixir natural juices. Go and try for yourself!.

Carrer Pau Claris 143 (Between Valencia and Aragon) Tel. 93 171 7081 www.happydayvegetariano.com/en

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com

Bar JAMÓN EXPERIENCE 4 BARRI GÒTIC Come and discover everything you’ve ever wanted to know about jamón ibérico. Enjoy an engaging interactive experience with an audiovisual tour in 8 languages that culminates with a tasting of 6 different kinds of jamones (reserve, ibérico, Guijuelo, Extremadura, Valle de los Pedroches and Huelva) hand cut by a master slicer and paired with a glass of cava, wine or beer. A unique experience you’ll treasure forever! Opens every day from 11.30am to 8pm. Rambla de les Flors 88-94 (in front of Mercat Boquería) Tel. 93 002 8474 www.jamonexperience.com

KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks. Great vibe and great music. Bring this ad and get 15% off a gin and tonic. Castella 1 Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 facebook.com/kaizenafterwork | info@kaizenafterwork.com

Vegetarian/Vegan ZAATAR (VEGETARIAN)4EIXAMPLE Experience delicious, creative vegan and vegetarian dining with the finest, fresh organic ingredients. Zaatar innovates with locally sourced fusion cuisine. The imaginative and healthy menu is complemented by freshly squeezed juices. They are truly passionate about food while maintaining focus on sustainability and conscious living. Lunch menu under €10. Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 654 926 601 | Mon-Sat 12pm-12am

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Cuisine prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients and presented with imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maitre d’: Oscar Fernández.

TO ADVERTISE HERE IN F&D

CALL 93 451 4486 OR EMAIL ADS@BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Closed Sun evening.

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their ﬁrst-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: L-5 Salida Rocafort/Rosselló Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Dr. Alistair Gallagher DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. Fast and friendly service in an Englishspeaking, international environment.

The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certiﬁed orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertiﬁed periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certiﬁed by the Invisalign system.

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Platinum Provider

Clínica Ed·dent - DENTIST This husband and wife dentist team from the Gothic Quarter have an important announcement to make to all English-speaking residents with toothaches. Laws in Spain are different for dentists, meaning you need to be careful when choosing a practice. Visit their Facebook page and read their advice; “3 Things You Have To Know Before Going to The Dentist in Spain”. Alternatively, visit them at their centrally-located clinic where they can offer you help with whatever dental problems you have.

Dental Clinic Gótico

43-45 Health DEC 2015.indd 44

Ample 22, Metro: Barceloneta, Drassanes T. 93 007 5616 M. 651 155 320 Facebook.com/eddentclinicadental

20% DISCOUNT

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Pilates Las Ramblas - PILATES Doina, a UK trained and qualiﬁed Physiotherapist offers both physiotherapy sessions treating musculoskeletal ailments and classes in Therapeutic and Wellness Pilates to maintain strength and ﬂexibility for wellbeing and injury prevention.Doina has recently added Nordic Walking to her repertoire. Adding a cardiovascular element; Nordic Walking takes Pilates outside! T. 610 712 947 www.pilateslasramblas.com doina@pilateslasramblas.com

VISIT OUR ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

11/24/15 2:25 PM

IAN GIBBS - LIFE COACH

Living Mindfully - MINDFULNESS COURSES Do you want to improve your mood, have better relationships, focus, decrease stress and anxiety and ﬁnd long term peace of mind? Learn Mindfulness in central Barcelona. Taught by an English psychotherapist and Mindfulness teacher in the MBSR format. info@livingmindfully.es www.livingmindfully.es

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year + home delivery service.The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

FREE CONSULTATION

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Fellow American College of Physicians

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

Av. Diagonal 478, T. 93 416 1270 www.farmaciaserra.com Open 9am-10pm

Doctor for Adults

If you’re feeling a bit dissatisﬁed with your life, then maybe you should try talking to a life coach. Ian can help you regain control, balance and conﬁdence to get you back on track to success and happiness. You’ve nothing to lose except your current dissatisfaction. Call now to arrange a free 1 hour consultation M. 605 801 802 ian.coaching@gmail.com www.iangibbs.es

The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technologies. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience.Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efﬁcient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434

Feel conﬁdent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certiﬁed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. Also a member of IAMAT.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to provide a ﬁrst-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30 minutes arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their convenient visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All Specialists and best Hospitals available.

M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona) he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also includes specialists in pediatric urology and English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders. Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office. T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

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ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest has more than 40 years experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and the prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a ﬁve-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme. ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

11/24/15 2:25 PM

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualiﬁed and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.

Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Wapa’m - HAIRDRESSER

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its’ high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual proﬁle.Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The ﬁrst consultation is free.

Wapa’m is a salon that offers hairdressing and spa services, using Aveda products with organic ingredients. It is different and unique, designed to create a complete health and well-being experience: look good, feel good. A team of stylists, colour specialists and beauty therapists make your visit unforgettable, connecting personality with style as well as a comprehensive and unique wellness concept.

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

Girona 152 Metro: L5 L4 T. 93 459 2559 www.wapam.es

Heaven - MASSAGE

Family Quiropráctic - CHIROPRACTOR

• Ready to feel fantastic for spring? • Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? • Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’?

Visit them for a free spinal assessment. At Family Quiropractic, the doctors will take care of you in a natural, drug-free way, because restoring proper nervous function is the ﬁrst step to healing and wellness.

Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!

Doctor of Quiropractic since 1986, Los Angeles (CA) thousands of patients placing conﬁdence in their hands.

Rosselló 395, 08025 T. 93 317 1720 www.familyquiropractic.com

Dr Rajaram Govindarajan M.D. - DOCTOR Dr Govindarajan believes that if you are not happy, you cannot be healthy. He offers the Ayurveda Diet and Mind-Body Integrative Therapy to help with a vast range of health problems including: psychosomatic diseases (cardiovascular, migraine), digestive problems (acid reﬂux, ulcers, bloating), obesity and addictions (smoking, alcohol), complimentary therapies to strengthen the immune system for cancer patients as well as coaching and meditation for happy living and personal growth. Private insurance accepted. Pelayo 12, Principal M M. 666 763 348 50773rjk@comb.cat www.menteycuerpo.org

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What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger.This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent & remove facial wrinkles, reduce & release any muscle tension in the face and jaw.Face Lift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health & beauty, and to prevent disease. Makes you feel fantastic.

www.barcelonaNEST.com

FREE CONSULTATION

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS

M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com

Jonathan Lane Hooker NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

GOBAI Group - PROPERTY SOLUTIONS GOBAI Group is a property project management firm specialising in technical projects and the legalisation of activities and facilities in and around Barcelona. They are experts in sourcing commercial premises and coordinating renovation work and licensing with the local authorities. They provide clients with local knowledge and expertise. M. 615 345 627 info@gobaigroup.com www.gobaigroup.com

INTEGRA ADVISERS ACCOUNTANTS AND LAWYERS BARCELONA Legal and business consulting firm that promotes entrepreneurial activity. Services include; Accounting, tax, financial advice, immigration, national insurance registration, payroll, legal and real estate advice.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Fuente Fradera - LAWYERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219 joseramon@fuentefradera.com www.fuentefradera.com

Spain Accounting-

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com

ZEST Architecture -

Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Mac in Barcelona -

Call now for a FREE consultation

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

T. 93 218 6622 www.zestarchitecture.com

MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

ENGLISH SPEAKING ARCHITECTS ZEST is a team of English, Dutch and Catalan architects, specialized in the design and building of high quality homes and offices. Their elegant, innovative house designs are widely published. ZEST takes care of everything from start to finish: - House plans and specifications, - Building licenses - Overseeing building work and budget - Turnkey projects possible

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FREE CONSULTATION

Aribau 207, Ppal A1, 08021 T. 93 414 6242 M. 615 405 045 info@integra-advisers.com www.integra-advisers.com

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FREN

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Mrs.Q design studio GRAPHIC DESIGN

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeﬂyers.com www.fabricadeﬂyers.com

La Luna Shipping LOGISTICS We offer a complete service to efficiently manage any kind of transport. Anywhere in the world, from a overnight courier service, to an airfreight or seafreight shipment to the other side of the world. We are specialist managing personal effects shipments, small “boxed” removals from Barcelona to Europe, UK, USA, Australia, New Zealand. Don’t look further, LA LUNA shipping is your one stop shop for your transport and logistics needs in Barcelona. T. 93 220 1715 info@laluna.coop www.laluna.coop facebook.com/ somos.lalunashipping

Garment Printing - BUSINESS Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! Whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.

Comte d’Urgell 28 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialises in bespoke invitations. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. We help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

BARCELONA OFFICE SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaofﬁce.com www.barcelonaofﬁce.com

FELISA COWORK - COWORKING SPACE Felisa CoWork is a welcoming, charming and professional space in the centre of Barcelona. A place to boost your productivity in creative surroundings, among like-minded people. They offer free drinks, organic fruit, energetic breakfasts and back massages. Open 24h. Visit their website for more details on the services they provide. T. 93 539 0588 M. 601 111 292 hola@felisacowork.com www.felisacowork.com

Javiertranslates - TRANSLATOR Translation services in various languages made by freelance translators according to your needs. Professionalism and confidentiality guaranteed. Don’t let the language get in the way between your company and the Spanish/Catalan market. M. 637 704 550 info@javiertranslates.com www.javiertranslates.com Open 8am-7pm

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Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. IPTV for Uk terrestrial channels and French tv via internet. (See our website for details). BEIN sports and many more available. Follow them on Facebook-Easisat and Twitter ´@PaulDuval15´.

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. You can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

Mykeli - RELOCATION AND BUSINESS ADVISORY

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BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

BCN WINDOWS HOME IMPROVEMENTS

Mykeli provide solutions for professionals and individuals by offering tailored prearrival and settling-in services. - Home search (rental and sale) - Visa and permit formalities - Bank account setup - Social security and tax registration - Insurance information - Utilities and supplies hook up - Business creation and relocation - Language and cultural integration Consultation is free.

Do you have a cold or noisy flat? High heating bills? Then BCN Windows can help! They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system offers noise reduction, energy saving comfort and is environmentally friendly. Visit their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation.

M. 608 876 472 salah.laribi@mykeli.com www.mykeli.com

M. 619 908 642 www.bcnwindows.es

11/24/15 2:30 PM

COACHING COLUMN

JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

SAM SAYS...

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

THIS MONTH: GETTING A BUSINESS OFF THE GROUND Dear Sam, My friend and I are from the US and have been living in Barcelona for over six years. We are thinking of teaming up on a project that we are both passionate about, but need some advice on what it’s like to start a business here, mostly from a marketing perspective. I have some questions for you (see below)... Thanks for your help! Barcelona Entrepreneur Newbie

Dear B.E.N., Barcelona can be a good city to start a business, especially now, ‘post-crisis’, with so many young entrepreneurs emerging onto the scene. You have asked some great questions and in order to give you as much insight as possible, I’ve teamed up with Adam Davis, Digital Customer Strategy Manager at Vistaprint (www.vistaprint.es) with over 16 years of marketing experience under his belt. What are the best ways of marketing the project in this city? Sam: Start with your network. Barcelona is very much a city where it’s about who you know—your network is your lifeline. As with any new business, a mix of online presence, marketing campaigns and word of mouth is key. Talk to anyone and everyone who will listen as you never know who might be interested in what you’re selling. Is it better to pick a target consumer, e.g. expats vs. locals, or go broad? Adam: This depends very much on the product. On a general note, go broad to start, as you never know which audience your oﬀer might resonate with and it might not be what you had expected. You can always narrow the target later on when you know more about your customer. How do we get people excited about and interested in a product that is already popular in our country but not here? Sam: Barcelona is the ideal place to bring what you know to the table and to implement a new idea or product. Foreign concepts can thrive here (look at the recent hamburger and brunch trends), as often people are already anxiously anticipating its arrival. Once you get a few early adopters to jump on the bandwagon, they’ll sell your product to the more sceptical ones. What are some important things to consider and be mindful of? Adam: Don’t forget your customer. It’s very easy to fall in love with your product or to get caught up in metrics. These aren’t necessarily bad things, as long as you are proactively getting and acting on customer feedback. Get out from behind your screens and go and meet, speak to people and listen to what they want and don’t want. What is the best way to go about build a relationship with vendors? Sam: Patience, persistence and honesty. Establishing relationships with people here takes time (as I’m sure you’ve noticed if you’ve been here for six years). They need to trust you. Face-to-face meetings are a great place to start or a telephone conversation (instead of email). People here also really appreciate it if you can pay them not only on time, but early. Invoices often take two to four months to be paid, so if you’re able to pay a vendor sooner rather than later, you’ll stand out from the crowd and they’ll have more incentive to work with you and to be reliable. For those interested in learning more about starting a business, there’s a great podcast worth listening to called StartUp (gimletmedia.com/show/startup). It’s a raw and very real account of the ins and outs of what it’s like to create a company.

To share your thoughts on this column or ask Sam a question, email sam@blueprintcoaching.ca, or write to Metropolitan at editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com

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INTERVIEW

LUNA ZEGERS 40, SINGER, COMPOSER, LYRICIST THE NETHERLANDS

de la Isla—read the lyrics, and cry and cry. I felt a real connection to the music. So, after Seville and a spell back in Amsterdam, I found the ESMUC (Escola Superior de Música de Catalunya), which offered both jazz and flamenco singing. I was like, ‘Yes!’ It was perfect. It was 2008 when I first came to study at ESMUC in Barcelona as part of the Erasmus exchange programme. I did my jazz subjects, but all my extra time and energy was focused on flamenco. I went out with other students to flamenco concerts, danced until six in the morning, and on the last day of term I met a guitar player, Jordi. Because of him I decided to spend the rest of the summer here. I fell in love, and it proved to be the start of a romance that is still going strong. I returned to Barcelona in 2010, to audition for the conservatory of ESMUC. The year I auditioned, they accepted two singing students—me and a Spanish girl. I was the first foreigner to ever be accepted into the programme. I think it was a nice experiment for them. I don’t think about it much anymore, but it was a big deal to be the first non-Spanish person to graduate from the programme. Foreigners that get into flamenco usually dance. In June of this year, I finished my studies at ESMUC with a repertoire of all my own songs, lyrics and arrangements, which I am now recording as a CD. I drew inspiration from my life, talking about difficult moments, but all the wonderful things as well. In that sense it felt complete. It’s funny, the last couple of months before my graduation concert, I would be doing yoga—Bikram yoga helps me calm all the monkeys swinging around in my head—and after almost every class, an idea would come to me. I would run out, ask the receptionist for pen and paper and scribble it down. Getting to this point has been a journey on many levels—literal, personal, musical and spiritual. In the end, I learned that everyone has two choices in life, no matter what you’re going through. You can react in a positive way or a negative way. I have chosen to grow from hardships in my life and after a loss, be grateful for what I still have.

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

I grew up in a little village in the south of Holland, surrounded by forests. I was always climbing trees and playing in the leaves. I am very grateful to have had that kind of childhood because when I was 19, I moved to Amsterdam for university, and have lived in cities ever since. First I studied political science. I thought it could give me the tools to do something special and make the world a better place, but I didn’t finish. My mother was ill at the time, and later died, and suddenly I desperately needed more of a personal relation with what I was studying and working towards. I can’t remember a time when I didn’t play music and sing. In the houses of all my family members, there was a piano. For every birthday, first we would eat cake like normal families do, but at some point we would gather around the piano, playing and singing. It was so much fun, and I didn’t realise until I grew up that not every family had such a rich musical environment. I heard classical and jazz music throughout my childhood. My dad, a geography teacher, directed a jazz choir for fun, and both my parents sang in a classical choir. Whilst studying political science, I started to take jazz singing lessons. After some time, my teacher asked me if I had ever thought of auditioning for the Conservatorium van Amsterdam. I auditioned and was accepted. Luckily, I didn’t realise how competitive it was or else I might have been more nervous. At the conservatory, there was a guy teaching Indian rhythm. It wasn’t singing so much as learning the complexities of the rhythm and how to clap them out. The rhythm is also what I later found interesting in flamenco, so it’s all connected. By 2006, I was burnt out from all my years of studying and exhausted after the death of my mom, so I took a break. India seemed like the perfect place to escape to. I was originally going to travel and see what I could learn about music along the way, but the main purpose of my threemonth trip quickly switched back to studying music full-time. My teacher in Bangalore was very strict. Most Indian musicians I got to know were like this. The whole mentality behind Indian music is that you have to study like crazy and be able to sing all the rhythms before even touching an instrument. So my teacher said, ‘You can come and take lessons on the condition that you come six days a week, three hours a day and study every day’. A lot of musicians would gather at open-air bars in Bangalore and play music together. There was a guy who played Spanish guitar, and one night he put on a flamenco record. My ears immediately perked up. I thought, ‘What’s that? Where does that sound come from?’ When I found out it was European music, I was shocked. But I was also hooked. At that moment, flamenco music expressed things that I was feeling. It has this really raw expression. In my jazz studies, at one point, I felt like something was missing. Most jazz lyrics are about lost love, but I was looking for a way to sing about death, mourning or suffering. With flamenco, it was all there. The happiness of alegrías, the festive bulerías, the siguiriyas, the oldest and deepest form of flamenco, which is very heavy. I could sing about the joys of life, but, on the other hand, no one would question sad lyrics. I spent three months at the Fundación Cristina Heeren in Sevilla. I started by learning how to clap the rhythms, and when I was back at my apartment alone, I would play music over the speakers—a lot of Camarón

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