Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 237 by Barcelona Metropolitan

OCTOBER 2016 Nº 237

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LOCKED OUT The city’s housing issues FASHION ICON!

The rise of the espadrille

GHOST TOWN

Urban legends from the streets of Barcelona

FREE SPEECH

evicti

notic

6 ways to learn a language for free

PLUS! ART 01 cover.indd 2

MUSIC

FASHION

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

A PLACE OF MY OWN

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METROPOLITAN contributors

contents {ISSUE 237} OCTOBER 2016

ELENA SMITH A former union organiser on

RegulaRs 06 08 10 33 34 36 49 50

the US-Mexico border, Elena traded in her bullhorn and picket sign for the chance to roam around Europe. She feels lucky to have escaped the US prior to the presidential election, but has nightmares about having to answer for a potentially disastrous outcome. Whilst working as an editorial assistant at Metropolitan, she has explored the city and developed a fondness for darting through the worn alleys of the Gothic Quarter. She can be found most nights managing multiple Instagram accounts while eating boquerones en vinagre. Follow her adventures @howfarfromhere.

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

DiRectoRies

41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

MELISSA LEIGHTY Chicago-born, Florida-

raised, Melissa is a freelance writer and photographer who covers art, culture, food and travel for several local and international publications. Aside from magazine work, she publishes a food blog called Ataula and is working on a cookbook about Catalan cuisine. When she’s not making a mess in the kitchen, you can usually find her roaming around Catalunya, hot on the trail of a new recipe. Follow her latest travel and culinary adventures on Instagram @mpleighty or www.melissaleighty.com.

FeatuRes

12 RePoRt: hoMe tRuths Eimear Corrigan reports on the city’s social housing problems. 18 uRBan legenDs Tales to tell on All Hallows’ Eve. 29 FRee sPeech Language learning on a shoestring. 30 huMBle Beginnings The espadrille: from peasant pump to haute couture. 34 acRoss the BoRDeR A weekend in Perpignan.

rachel huffman Originally from St. Louis, Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistants Jairo Rieder, Sarah Yaagoub Editorial Assistants Aminah Barnes, Priyankaa Joshi, Elena Smith, Jessica Williams Design Assistants Rita Wachtler, Annabel Warley Contributors Rosalind Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Miquel Hudin, Rachel Huffman, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Aron Penczu, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographer Yan Pekar Illustrator Ben Rowdon Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

Rachel studied writing, literature and publishing in Boston. After graduation, she moved to Barcelona to teach English, travel and write. She has always wanted travel to be a part of her life, from trekking around the US for gymnastics to gallivanting around Europe when she studied abroad. Barcelona has proven to be quite the inspiration. She now sees a future for herself here, writing content for local blogs and publications, and continuing to explore the city and beyond.

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IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN WATER CYCLE

AQUA BODY STUDIO. PASSEIG DE SANT JOAN 40. There’s an immediate sense of serenity as you walk into this studio, where minimalist decor and exposed brick walls create a calming atmosphere. Having opened in March this year, it is the first indoor aquabiking venue in Barcelona and offers underwater spinning classes, which cater for a maximum of 10 people, as well as yoga, Pilates, massages and treatments. French owner Nicolas Aubier emphasised that personal attention and a community spirit are central to the studio’s ethos: “It’s not just a gym, but a wellness centre, where communal activities and spaces, such as the studio’s outdoor terrace, enhance the friendly ambience.” Aubier also provides personal training and rehabilitation, and has a wealth of experience in the field, having previously worked for professional sports clubs and luxury hotels. www.aquabodystudio.com

CAFÉ CULTURE

HIDDEN CAFÉ BCN. CONSTANÇA 17. Barcelona may be a city brimming with coffee shops but finding a decent cup amongst the sea of tepid cafés con leche can be a challenge. Enter Hidden, a speciality coffee shop offering a selection of imported filter and espresso coffees, a range of teas and a matcha bar. At Hidden, local co-founders Mateo González and Carlos Moral want people to break free from their caffeine comfort zones, “open their minds” and discover more about different types of coffee. If you feel intimidated by the seemingly endless brew options, fear not, the skilled and passionate baristas are on hand for recommendations. Alongside the beverages, Hidden offers a selection of freshly prepared food, including artisan sandwiches, wholesome salad boxes and tempting cakes provided by Súper Coffee & Food Store in Poblenou, with plenty of gluten-free and vegan options. The café has a sustainability and traceability ethos at its core, with carefully sourced ingredients and every last detail considered, from the water supply to presentation. If you’d like to learn a thing or two about the science behind the cup, workshops are held on the last Thursday of every month. www.hiddencafebcn.com

CAT CALL

ESPAI DE GATS. TEROL 29. On a quaint street in Gràcia lined with tall wooden doors and barred windows, this shopfront with a floor-to-ceiling window pane stands out. Soft blue lighting radiates from inside, and pastel-coloured murals cover the walls. Small sets of eyes stare up at you as you walk by—half a dozen cats lounge on straw mats, climb on tables and chase toys across the tiled floor. Espai de Gats is the first of its kind in Barcelona: a café, shelter and adoption centre all in one. Inspired by a trend that originated in Taiwan, founders Tereza Reindlouva and Eva Gonzalez fought through two years of red tape to bring the concept to Barcelona. They see the cat café as much more than a business: “The most important part of the project is that cats who have spent weeks, months or longer in typical shelters find a home and a family, and that families find the perfect cat for them,” explained Reindlouva. Whilst some visitors do choose to adopt, the majority just come to unwind. Customers can spend up to 90 minutes playing with the cats while enjoying a selection of coffees, smoothies and vegan snacks. Advanced reservations are recommended for evening visits and can be made online. espaidegats.com

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SEASONAL FOODS

Autumn has arrived and Barcelona’s market stalls, restaurants and bakeries are filled with these tasty seasonal products.

ARTICHOKES High in vitamins and antioxidants, this versatile vegetable, which can be eaten raw, baked, grilled, boiled, steamed or fried, is in season now, and again in springtime.

CHESTNUTS In the build up to the annual Catalan festival, La Castanyada, which is celebrated on and around All Saints’ Day (November 1st), the enticing aroma of freshly roasted chestnuts floats through the city as roasting stands pop on busy street corners.

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DIGITAL NOMADS

COCO COFFICE. MANSO 17. The ‘coffice’—a cross between a coffee shop and an office—is a trend that is gaining momentum worldwide, due to the rise of working remotely. Inspired by the success of the concept in France, French couple Carole Touati and Axel Ruis opened Coco Coffice in Barcelona two months ago, filling a unique niche in a growing network of coworking spaces in the city. Fully equipped with wifi, plenty of power outlets, a meeting room and access to the kitchen, flexibility is the order of the day in this cosy, comfortable space, where guests pay by the hour and can stay as long as they like. Visitors have full access to all facilities and can tuck in to a variety of complimentary snacks and endless cups of tea or quality filter coffee in the stylish kitchen area. The bright and airy space, complete with pale green walls, quirky artwork and mellow background music, has a welcoming atmosphere, making it the perfect place to while away the hours for professionals, freelancers and students alike. www.cofficebarcelona.com

PANELLETS Made of almond paste and topped with pine nuts, you can find these sweet seasonal delicacies, which are traditionally eaten on La Castanyada and washed down with a glass of moscatel, in bakeries throughout October and November.

SWEET POTATO As the weather gets colder, what better way to warm up than with a rich, roasted sweet potato? Like chestnuts and panellets, this tasty root vegetable is traditionally enjoyed around La Castanyada.

BOLETS Wild mushroom season is officially in full swing. Make the most of the rich variety of fungi on offer in the markets and on restaurant menus.

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IN THE CITY

STREETLIFE

CAFÈ DE L’ACADÈMIA This authentic Catalan bistro, complete with wooden beams, stone walls and a terrace, situated in the historic Plaça Sant Just, oozes tradition from the decor to the cuisine. The restaurant was opened in 1989 by the grandson of Agustí Agut who, in 1924, started the family tradition when he opened L’Agut restaurant on Carrer d’en Gignàs. Popular dishes include grilled Catalan sausage, raw marinated cod with romesco sauce and grilled squid, and the menú del día is a favourite among workers in the neighbourhood. Lledó 1.

CARRER DELS LLEDÓ/ BAIXADA DE VILADECOLS Nestled within the busy Gothic Quarter, this neighbourly street boasts a friendly, bohemian vibe.

2 LA CLANDESTINA La Clastendina is a hidden gem offering an intriguing place to relax and unwind or catch up with friends, and is popular amongst students as a quiet spot to study. The cosy cafe radiates Arabic and Asian influence, in its exotic array of aromatic teas, including Massala Chai, Moroccan Green and Jasmine, lassis made from natural fruit, and a selection of shishas. The menu also provides a variety of healthy juices, homemade cakes, sandwiches and paninis. The quirky ambience makes it the ideal backdrop for exhibitions by local artists, which change monthly. Baixada de Viladecols 2. teterialaclandestina.blogspot.com

1 LE BOUCHON AT HOTEL MERCER Situated adjacent to the five-star Hotel Mercer, this gastrobar has a trendy vibe and is run by award-winning German chef, Harry Wielding. The menu delivers unique dishes made using local Catalan products, such as requesón (cottage cheese) with anchovies, eggs and asparagus, octopus, squid and more, complemented by a broad selection of wines and cava. Le Bouchon offers direct access to the boutique hotel, which was once a medieval palace and embodies an air of historic grandeur—Roman walls lie within the building, and although it was given a contemporary makeover by renowned Spanish architect Rafael Moneo in 2012, it manages to maintain its antiquated charm. Lledó 7. www. mercerbarcelona.com

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE

BCN PAINTING ROUTE This eye-catching studio is bursting with vivid, colourful portrayals of Barcelona life and landmarks. Venture inside and you’ll be greeted by the jovial, passionate painterin-residence, Juan Peralta, as he handmakes the frames for his paintings. Together with gallery owner Cesar Estrada, Peralta opened this workshop in June as a creative artisan space to accompany the BCN Painting Route Gallery, situated directly across the street. “This is what I’ve always dreamt of doing,” said Peralta. “I have to love every piece that goes up here, so when a customer buys one, they take a part of me with them. I don’t live off this work, I live for it.” His pieces range in styles and sizes, starting at €10. Lledó 17. bcnpaintingroute.com

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE THING ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD HOME?

PAULA, 19

MARIJA, 29

IDELFONSO, 48 COLOMBIA, PROFESSOR

GERMANY, STUDENT

Eating traditional Serbian food with my family on our terrace is a great memory for me. It was full of plants and our dog was always running around.

Our house was near the Amazon rainforest and had a huge porch. Wildlife, such as hummingbirds, toucans and butterflies, would come to visit us.

I remember playing hide-and-seek with my two younger siblings in our garden. It was big with lots of corners to hide in.

SERBIA, LEGAL ANALYST

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NDORFINA Celebrating local fashion design, Ndorfina offers a range of clothing lines from exclusive brands handmade in the city. Inside the shop, exposed brick walls, large leather chairs and jewellery cabinets channel a vintage theme, in keeping with the street’s bohemian vibe. Since it opened over 10 years ago, the unique products, local work and personal shopping experience at Ndorfina have attracted an array of regular clients. It has also become popular amongst tourists in search of something different, and offers a selection of humorous postcards and souvenirs. Baixada de Viladecols 3. ndorfina.com

2c SWIIT A play on the word ‘sweet’, this new ice-cream parlour emanates creativity, from the decor to the experimental flavours, such as ‘violet’ and ‘mascarpone with figs’. The owners, Tracy from the US and Giovanni from Italy, felt it was important to “keep the spirit” of the building, which was once an old print shop—their graphic design backgrounds are clearly expressed in the bold artwork behind the counter and the retro seating area overlooking the Roman walls and square outside. The ice-cream is made using organic milk from Catalan farms, fairtrade ingredients and seasonal fruits with no preservatives, to create intense flavours and creamy textures. Baixada de Viladecols 2c. www.swiitbarcelona.com

RAFA,

38 CÓRDOBA, SPAIN LANGUAGE COACH

I grew up in a flat in Córdoba. There was a great sense of community within the building. We’d often go to the neighbour’s for lunch or dinner.

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IN THE CITY

A PLACE OF MY OWN irish-AmericAn couple, melissA And Tim, hAve puT A unique, colourful sTAmp on Their eixAmple ApArTmenT

merican Melissa Grossman has a unique approach to interior design. She doesn’t buy things simply because she needs them. She has the patience to wait until she finds the perfect piece of art, end table or chandelier before she buys anything for the Eixample apartment that she owns with her husband. “When we do purchase items for the apartment, it’s usually because we’ve met the artist or designer—gotten to know them, their background and their work, and therefore have a greater connection with the things living in our home,” she said. “I’m a sucker for handmade pieces because I believe they carry more significance.” Melissa’s selectiveness doesn’t mean her large, high-ceilinged apartment remains empty, however. Her Irish husband, Tim, had acquired a lot of unique furnishings and ceramics “preMelissa”, which they shipped over from Atlanta, Georgia, when they settled in Barcelona over three years ago. Two standout pieces are the twin throne chairs that Tim got at an auction after a heated bidding war. After the original fabric was clawed to shreds by some feisty house cats, Melissa reupholstered them in an almost flamelike pattern of vibrant shades of purple, orange and green. Other striking pieces in the living room include an old-fashioned, curved sofa, juxtaposed with a plush, black, straight-line couch. A corrugated cardboard light fixture by Félix Lozal hangs in the middle of the spacious room, a stained glass church window spotted at an Atlanta art festival presides above the doorway leading into the dining room, and a bubbling aquarium fills the rear wall, allowing a glimpse into the

master suite past the coral reefs and fish. “The aquarium actually came with the apartment,” Melissa explained. She confessed that Tim was the advocate for keeping it, while she suggested putting a more manageable terrarium in its place. “With the aquarium, though, I don’t have to keep as many plants around the house, which I like. It’s my own special ‘naturescape’, and I must admit, it is rather calming.”

“I always have a project in mind, or am on the hunt for something. It gets me out and about and keeps me thinking creatively” Melissa and Tim knew they wanted a movein ready apartment that they could simply put their colourful stamp on, and they were thrilled to learn that this place came with more than just an aquarium. The previous owners had upgraded the kitchen and bathrooms, one of which is spectacularly covered in tiles of mermaid green watercolour glaze. But what Melissa truly loved were the well-kept, original features of the apartment that give a glimpse into its past. “I am still amazed by how beautiful the cornicing is throughout the apartment, and the textured glass window in the entranceway reminds me so much of traditional Catalan homes.” The long, narrow hallway stretching from that window back to the living room is filled with paintings from a variety of art movements. “As you can see, we have a thing for portraits,” said Melissa, “But we don’t ever want to be limited

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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Handmade furniture and an eclectic selection of artwork combine to create a sophisticated, yet personalised, home

to just one style. That applies to all the decor in our home, not just the art.” Against the white backdrop of the hall, Realism mixes with NeoExpressionism. A Cubist-style painting by Tim, based on Picasso’s Mother and Child, First Steps (1943), and a bright swirl of coloured pottery hang opposite one another. There is no denying the sophisticated artistic eye of Melissa and Tim and the exceptional vision that has made this apartment their home. “When we first moved to Barcelona, shopping for home furnishings introduced me to the city,” Melissa reminisced. “Gallery hopping, venturing to different neighbourhoods in search of new shops and attending weekend markets gave me a great sense of how much this Mediterranean gem has to offer.” And she’s still not done looking. “To this day, I always have a project in mind, or am on the hunt for something. It gets me out and about, exploring, and keeps me thinking creatively.”

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HOME TRUTHS

PICKING UP THE PIECES OF A BROKEN HOUSING SYSTEM BY EIMEAR CORRIGAN

“T

he photo of Spain [...] is that it’s the country with the highest number of evictions in the European Union—half a million in seven years. It has the most empty properties, three and a half million, and has the smallest public rented housing stock.” This is the bleak picture painted by Carlos Macías, spokesperson for the PAH, La Plataforma de Afectados por la Hipoteca (Platform for Persons Affected by Mortgages), a social movement fighting for housing rights, as, almost 10 years since the bubble burst, the effects of Spain’s housing crisis are still being felt across the country. Many have become trapped by their pre-crisis purchases, others are facing eviction, and some are having difficulty accessing any type of housing. According to El Punt Avui, only two percent of Catalunya’s dwellings are dedicated to social housing, compared to the European average of 18 percent. A report by Barcelona’s housing committee, the Consorci de l’Habitatge de Barcelona, showed that in December 2015, the city’s waiting list for social housing, or VPO (Viviendas de Protección Oficial), contained 28,238 households, amounting to over 53,000 people. The most affected areas included Ciutat Vella, Sant Martí and Nou Barris. Despite a slight decrease in these figures from the previous year, the situation is showing little sign of improvement. Even if a property is found, security of tenure is not guaranteed, meaning families can be moved at any point, making it almost impossible for them to form community ties. The steady stream of evictions due to non-payment of rent and mortgages is adding to the problem. The modification of the Land Act (Ley del Suelo de España) in 1997 marked the beginning of Spain's housing boom. Before 1997, land was

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controlled by the state, and for the most part the government and local councils decided what would be built and where. Under the new law, more land was considered suitable for private development, and the provision of affordable, adequate housing was not a priority for town and city planning departments. According to a report carried out by the Observatorio DESC (Observatory of Economic, Social and Cultural Rights) and the PAH in 2013, 6.6 million properties were constructed in Spain between 1997 and 2007, equalling the number of properties built in Italy, France and Germany combined in the same period. The Land Act was modified with the hope that an increase in building and development would lead to a reduction in the price of land and property, making housing affordable and accessible. Due to speculation however, housing prices continued to increase. Banks began giving mortgages to almost anyone; sometimes giving more than the market value of the property. Nervous buyers were reassured that if their financial situation changed and they could not make mortgage repayments, they could simply sell the house, make a profit and invest in a more affordable property.

35.000

30.000

30.572 27.813

"Those who made the mistake of signing a mortgage are financially condemned for life”

25.000

29.725

28.584

28.238

25.496

20.000 19.049 15.000

When the global financial crisis hit in 2008, the bubble burst. Unemployment rose by seven percent between 2008 and 2009, and continued to rise in the years to follow, hitting its highest rate at just over 26 percent in 2013. Many now-unemployed property owners began to feel the heavy burden of their mortgage repayments, yet the unstable property market meant that selling was almost impossible. They were left with the fear of losing their home, and still being forced to repay a large debt. It wasn’t long before the banks stepped in, this time to claim their collateral, with nationwide evictions. People were left homeless and in desperate need of social housing. It is important to note here that the repossession of a property does not cancel the owner’s debt. Barcelona’s current mayor, Ada Colau, who also co-founded the PAH, has played an important role in bringing this issue to the fore, pushing the development and implementation of housing initiatives. In her 2012 book, Vidas Hipotecadas (Mortgaged Lives), co-authored by her partner Adrìa Alemany, the situation is compared to that of indentured slaves. “When a situation of non-payment comes about, the property goes up for auction. If the auction is empty, which is what happens in 90 percent of cases, in the current context of the crisis, financial institutions can auction off the house for 60 percent of the value. [...] The difference of the debt which is not covered by this 60 percent, plus interest and judicial costs [...], remain as outstanding debt for the ex-owner. [...] The result of this anachronistic law is practically a contemporary version of slavery. Those who made the mistake of signing a mortgage are financially condemned for life.” The ‘dación en pago’ or nonrecourse debt—the legal term referring to the handing over of the property and subsequent cancellation of the debt in full—is strongly supported by both Colau and the PAH. Barcelona was hit hard by evictions, leaving many households indebted to the banks for the foreseeable future. Some found themselves homeless, whilst others were assisted by family members who had acted as guarantors when the mortgage was first signed. According to Vidas Hipotecadas, over 65,000 properties were repossessed in Barcelona between 2008 and 2011, making up 19 percent of the figures for the entire country during that period. National and local governments were unable to offer any immediate solution. Angry and frustrated by the lack of political response, it was up to

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2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

SOCIAL HOUSING WAITING LIST Consorci de l’Habitatge de Barcelona 35.000 30.000 25.000

30.572 27.813

28.5

A GUIDE TO BARCELONA’S 25.496 HOUSING GROUPS Consorci 20.000de l’Habitatge de Barcelona. The city's housing committee—a public body that involves both the regional government (Generalitat de 19.049 Catalunya) and the city council (Ajuntament de Barcelona). 15.000 Plataforma de Afectados por la Hipoteca (PAH). A social movement 2009 2010 2011 2012 formed by volunteers in 2009 in response to the increasing number of evictions in the country. Since its formation, the PAH volunteers have worked with people facing both rent or mortgage evictions. As well as providing emotional support to those with housing problems, the PAH also organises sit-ins, occupies and pressures banks and ensures that those affected do not end up on the streets.

Observatorio Derechos, Económicos, Sociales y Culturales (ODESC). The DESC promotes social rights, such as the right to adequate housing, work and education. They work closely with the PAH in relation to housing issues. Ada Colau worked with the DESC in the past, whilst Carlos Macías (spokesperson for the PAH) is a current employee. As the PAH is a social movement, it does not receive subsidies or use public resources. The DESC, on the other hand, manages these resources in order to respond to the needs of the PAH. Alianza contra la Pobreza Energética (APE). Formed by a number of groups and social organisations in 2014, the APE’s aim is to combat energy poverty, guaranteeing universal access to basic provisions (water, gas and electricity) and to stop these provisions being cut off by suppliers.

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La Plataforma de Afectados por la Hipoteca (Platform for Persons Affected by Mortgages), or PAH, is a social movement fighting for housing rights across the country

the people themselves to take the initiative to fight for housing rights in Barcelona, leading to the formation of the PAH in 2009. This non-governmental, social movement has gained unprecedented power over the last seven years. It now exists in 40 locations across the country with the purpose of combating evictions and using its resources to protect and enforce the constitutional right to housing (article 47). The group has had a huge impact on the housing problem in Barcelona, providing support for those who have been failed by the slow administrative processes of the housing system. To date, they have stopped over 2,000 evictions across the country and, according to El Periodico, the Barcelona branch has stopped 639 this year alone. However, with 43 eviction orders handed out each day in Catalunya, there is still a long way to go. Attending one of the PAH’s weekly meetings gives a valuable insight into the work the organisation does and the housing problems still being faced by people on a daily basis; there are new cases at almost every meeting. Along with educational sessions and coordination meetings (all run by volunteers), every Monday evening the PAH come together to listen to and find solutions for tenants facing evictions. Carlos Macías highlighted how the issues faced by those coming to the PAH for help have changed since it was founded in 2009. “The majority of families that come to the PAH now are connected to evictions from rental properties or squats. There are also mortgage evictions, but much fewer than before. The process (of rent or squat evictions) is very fast, much faster than mortgages.” At a meeting on September 19th, three people had notices for evictions which were to be carried out on the 22nd. Mortgage evictions, however, are still rife in the city, destroying the lives of the mortgage holders. One young woman at a recent meeting facing a

mortgage eviction had been pushing for nonrecourse debt. However, the bank would only agree to it if accompanied by a payment of €10,000. Left with few options, she, along with a number of others facing mortgage evictions present that day, were encouraged to chase their bank managers, send constant emails, and sit in the offices with a chair, a sandwich and a PAH t-shirt. These methods may seem unorthodox, but they get results. As well as organising sit-ins and pressuring banks and landlords, the PAH strives to empower those facing evictions and give them the tools they need to fight for their right to housing. The organisation has been so successful that the city’s housing committee (the Consorci de l’Habitatge de Barcelona), unable to cope with the gravity of the problem, has directed urgent eviction cases to them. Indeed, the strain on the Consorci de l’Habitatge has been known to, inadvertently, worsen the situation for some. Speaking at a recent meeting, one woman explained that she had been issued an eviction order for September 22nd, but couldn’t move into social housing until the 27th. What could be seen as an administrative oversight causes additional stress and wastes time that could be dedicated to those with more extreme problems. For those who do not qualify for the emergency housing list, the PAH has implemented structures to ensure nobody ends up on the street. ‘Obra Social’ is a programme, initiated by the PAH, which involves the reoccupation of dwellings from which families have been evicted or properties owned by banks. As it is illegal, this course of action is only advocated for extreme situations where evictions cannot be avoided and families are facing homelessness. One of the crucial achievements of the PAH, along with the Alliance against Energy Poverty (APE) and the Observatorio DESC, was the passing of the controversial ‘Law of Urgent Measures against Evictions’ (La ley de medidas urgentes contra desahucios, 24/2015) by the Catalan parliament last year. Amongst other points, this law obliges financial institutions and landlords to allow tenants to stay in their property and rent it as social housing. The rent cannot exceed more than 10 percent of the household’s income and must be offered for a minimum of three years. The new law also prevents water, gas and electricity companies from cutting services to those unable to pay bills, in an attempt to combat energy poverty. The passing of the law was a huge victory for the the groups involved, although it has recently been brought before the Spanish Constitutional Court, as the Partido Popular (PP) has declared some areas unconstitutional. Some have questioned, however, whether the PP’s agenda is more concerned with commercial interests than the plight of the tenants. In the meantime, the PAH have been using the outline of the new law to strengthen their cases. At a meeting last month, an announcement was made that one active member of the organisation, who is currently unemployed and living in fear of eviction, managed to obtain an agreement allowing her to pay just 10 percent of her income in rent, amounting to only €10 per month. However slow, the Consorci de l’Habitatge de Barcelona has made efforts to improve the situation. Improving housing in the city is one of Colau’s main objectives as mayor, and one of the initiatives she has supported since taking office in June 2015 is the 'Empty Properties Programme' (Programa Pisos Buits) conceived by Habitat3, which aims to encourage landlords to rent their housing, through the council, to those on the housing list. According to the committee’s website, landlords commit to contracts which last a minimum of 40 months (48 should the property need renovations). In return for this, landlords are guaranteed 36 months rent, and renovations are paid for by the committee. Landlords receive an average rent of €300, as long as this does not exceed 30 percent of the household’s income; any difference is covered by the council. One of the main problems with this programme is the feasibility of landlords accepting low rates in a city where the demand for rented housing is high and private tenants are easy to find. Along with the Empty Properties Programme, the council has been making efforts to make more units of social housing available by implementing a tax on empty properties. In Barcelona alone, the banks possess

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at least 2,400 empty properties. This June, a new tax for banks and landlords around the city was proposed. The provisional law was supported by Colau’s party, Barcelona en Comú, and the PSC (Catalan Socialist Party), while both the PP and Ciutadans voted against it. A decision will be taken in the coming months as to whether the law will be passed. If passed, it is hoped that the tax will deter banks from leaving properties empty and therefore opt for social rent tenants. Other plans by the Housing Committee include the construction or acquisition of 1,000 properties destined for social rent tenants, with 300 of these specifically located in the areas of Ciutat Vella, Sants and Nous Barris. Building more properties, however, is a slow process and it is unlikely that the Catalan government or the city council will be able to fund enough new-build projects to solve the housing shortage. Although time is of the essence, the lack of housing stock in Barcelona means that there will not be a quick solution for those on the housing list, and it looks as though there could be many more rent and mortgage evictions to come. Spain is not alone in its housing situation, with other European countries, including the UK and Ireland, experiencing long waiting lists and a woeful shortage of housing; the right to housing for all continues to be a pipe dream for many. Now, with the housing market on the road to recovery (see right), hopefully this time round both banks and potential buyers will learn from the mistakes of the country’s last housing boom.

GETTING BACK ON THE LADDER? Despite the disastrous effects of the property crash in Spain, the culture of buying has not disappeared according to Carlos Macías: “I think the population’s general attitude has partially changed...but there is still a lot of work left to do in order to provide rental security and ensure it is a stable option for people.” It seems that buying continues to be the best way to guarantee security of tenure and a stable home for your family. Recently, the housing market has finally turned a corner, with housing prices in Barcelona reported to have increased by 9.45 percent in the first half of this year (Grupo Tecnocasa). Much of the activity, however, is coming from investors. Some of the most attractive areas include Eixample, Poble Sec, the Gothic Quarter and Barceloneta, where investors account for 84 percent of sales (El Periódico). Sants, on the other hand, is reported to have a very high buy-to-live ratio. Cash sales are thought to account for a high proportion of these transactions, which may be due to the fact that 40 percent of recent sales went to foreign buyers, or increased cautiousness on behalf of the seller or the banks. Either way, this recent recovery appears to be fuelled by landlords and foreign investment, rather than individuals or families managing to get a foot on the property ladder, and could result in rents being pushed up further.

SOCIAL HOUSING: SUPPLY AND DEMAND

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Urban Legends

he nights are drawing in earlier, the crowds of tourists are thinning out and a crisp breeze has come to blow away the summer humidity. It’s time to leave the bright open spaces of Barcelona’s beaches and parks and make the most of the other side of the city—the weatherworn, winding alleyways and small taverns nestled amongst ancient stone walls. And what better form of entertainment in these clandestine surroundings than to share a few stories of an equally surreptitious nature? THE METRO The metro. For some, an unremarkable means of going about their daily routine, for others a labyrinthine underground world full of twists, turns and disused ‘phantom stations’. One such station is Gaudí. Built in 1968 but never inaugurated, it goes unnoticed by all except those who peer into the shadows when travelling on the L5 (blue) between Sagrada Familia and Sant Pau/Dos de Maig. Some claim to see humanoid forms lurking in the gloom, their featureless faces staring blankly ahead, waiting for a train that will never arrive. Another story revolves around Rocafort—a station that metro personnel dread being transferred to. Rocafort’s air of the unusual stems from a spate of suicides that occurred some years ago—four in one month to be exact.

WITH HALLOWEEN CREEPING UP ON US AT THE END OF THIS MONTH, HERE ARE A FEW URBAN LEGENDS THAT WILL KEEP YOU UP AT NIGHT BY ROSALIND BOND Since then, staff working the night shifts claim to have seen people on the CCTV cameras, a distracted look on their faces as they wander along the platforms. Nothing too strange there, except that it tends to occur after the last train of the night has already left and the station is closed to the public. When they have gone to explain that there are no more trains running, staff have found nothing but a deserted platform. THE VAMPIRESS OF CARRER PONENT In 1912, the city was cast into a state of fear and shock following some grisly discoveries on Carrer de Joaquín Costa (then known as Carrer de Ponent) in the Raval. One day in February, a neighbour spotted a melancholy face at the window of number 29 that had a striking resemblance to Teresita Guitart—a little girl from the neighbourhood who had gone missing. The neighbour informed the police, and that same day, Enriqueta Martí i Ripollés was arrested. Beggar by day and prostitute by night, Martí lured Teresita and another girl, Angelita, into her home with the promise of sweets and imprisoned them there. Searches of the house unearthed a myriad of gruesome discoveries, including children’s clothes, skulls, hair and bones. After forcing a locked door and entering one of the rooms, police also found jars full of coagulated blood, fats and other strange substances, along with books detailing ancient remedies and a roster with names of the city’s

political and economic elite. Rumours quickly spread that Martí was a vampiress, creating ointments made from the remains of children and selling them to the wealthy of the city to cure their ailments, in particular the much feared tuberculosis. THE ALCHEMIST’S HOUSE Number 8, Carrer de l’Arc de Sant Ramon del Call, is one of the only remaining original buildings in the city’s Jewish quarter, El Call, and has long since been known as ‘The Alchemist’s House’, named after its most renowned resident. In the 14th century, there lived a Jewish alchemist, known throughout the city for his remedies and potions. The alchemist’s beautiful daughter was in love with a Christian boy, who she was courting in secret. However, tired of all the lies, she begged her beloved to ask her father’s permission for them to marry. Knowing that her father would never agree, he suggested that they become lovers instead—an unacceptable proposition that led the girl to furiously end their relationship. Spurned by his sweetheart, the boy’s love mutated into a loathing so intense that he vowed to kill her—if he couldn’t have her, no one could. He visited the alchemist, the girl’s father, and acquired a rose laced with poison that would kill with one sniff. That night, the boy called up to the girl’s window, begging forgiveness and promising that he would ask the girl’s father for her hand in marriage.

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The girl accepted her fiancé’s fatal offering and as she brought the flower to her nose to smell its sweetness, she collapsed on the floor, her body wracked with pain as she died. Finding his only daughter the next day, the alchemist realised what he had done. He left the house and the city, and cursed the dwelling so that no one should live there ever again. To this day, no one has.

Santa Eulàlia is remembered in the Gothic Quarter

THE 13 TORTURES OF EULÀLIA The co-patron saint of Barcelona, Santa Eulàlia, was a brave, 13-year-old martyr, born at a particularly bad time to be a practising Christian. When Eulàlia spoke out against the repression of her community, Roman emperor Diocletian sentenced her to 13 tortures, one for every year of her life, including rolling her down a street—now known as the Baixada de Santa Eulàlia—in a barrel lined with shards of broken glass. And as if that wasn’t bad enough, she was then crucified in the form of an ‘X’. In the moment of her crucifixion, it began to snow and a white dove flew out of her mouth, believed to be her soul. Eulàlia was later canonised and made patron of the city, inspiring citizens facing difficult times for many centuries. In 1687, however, she faced some competition. Barcelona was attacked by a terrible plague and the desperate citydwellers prayed to her for help. When the plague continued, they turned their attention to Our Lady of Mercy, who they found was much more successful in answering their prayers. When the plague ended, the superstitious barceloneses ditched Eulàlia for ‘La Mercè’, who, to this day, continues to be the better known, and more celebrated patron of the city.

THE ABANDONED TOWN OF LA MUSSARA Situated in the Prades mountain range in Tarragona, the town of La Mussara was abandoned under strange circumstances in 1959. Now, all that remains of the village are the ruins of eight buildings, the church and a wealth of myths concerning paranormal activity. A lot of stories stem from the dense fog that is known to fall suddenly over the town, even on clear summer days, leaving visitors utterly disoriented. It’s believed that the mist causes strange time lapses that lead visitors to believe they have only been in the town for a couple of hours, when in reality they have been there much longer. Many visitors have also reported hearing voices and even the sound of approaching horses’ hooves. Some claim that the fog is the result of a curse that was cast on the village centuries ago by a witch, while others believe that La Mussara houses a gateway to another realm—if you jump over a particular stone outside one of the houses, you’ll pass into a parallel dimension known as ‘La Vila del Sis’, inhabited by creatures of the underworld. Disappearances are amongst the most famous incidents connected to La Mussara, in particular the sad case of Enrique Martínez Ortiz. On October 16th 1991, a group of friends met to collect mushrooms. At some point during the day, Martínez fell slightly behind the rest of the group, and was never seen again. Search parties were sent out and his car was discovered just where he had left it, but no trace of Martínez has ever been found. The case remains unsolved to this day.

BARCELONA: THE DARK SIDE For those wanting to delve further into the paranormal underworld of the city, these companies offer tours that take you on an after-dark wander through the city’s most notorious spots. Icono Serveis. Fantasmas de Barcelona

Trip4Real. Barcelona Paranormal

Barcelona History Tour. Horror Tour

Cultruta. BCN Nocturna y Criminal

Runner Bean Tours. The Dark Past

Atrapalo. Barcelona insólita y secreta The town of La Mussara was mysteriously abandoned in 1959

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WHAT’S ON

MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 1st & 2nd. Red Hot Chili Peppers Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 1st-31st. LEM Festival Various Venues. 1st. Jacques Renault Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 5th. Holy Fuck Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 5th. Fear of Men and Nothing. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 7th. Anaut Marula Cafe. Carrer dels Escudellers 49. 7th. Maluma Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 8th. Stornoway L’Auditori. Carrer Lepant 150. 8th. Laura Pausini Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 9th. Pablo Sanchez Poble Espanyol. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13. 12th. Katatonia Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 14th. Fifth Harmony Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 15th. Estopa Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 19th. Janoskians Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 21st. Benjamin Francis Leftwich L’Auditori. Carrer Lepant 150. 22nd. Huecco BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 21st-23rd. Primavera Club 2016 Various venues. 26th. Hiromi: The Trio Project Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 27th. Chemical Brothers Poble Espanyol. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13. 27th. Cate Le Bon Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 31st. James Vincent Mcmorrow BARTS. Paral·lel 62.

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WHEN MCMORROW COMES

JAMES VINCENT MCMORROW. BARTS. PARAL·LEL 62. OCTOBER 31ST. Dublin-born singer and songwriter, James Vincent McMorrow will take to the stage at BARTS this month to promote his latest album, We Move (2016), which has been almost two years in the making. His first album, Early in the Morning (2010), fit nicely into the genre of guitar-folk, whilst his second, Post Tropical (2014), allowed his own taste in music to influence his creations, and included traces of R&B, hip-hop and electronic sounds. The latest album came about as a result of working alongside other artists whilst touring, and was inspired by cities he visited, including Barcelona. On this album, McMorrow allows his voice to take centre stage, no longer fading into the background. A thought-provoking album focusing on movement and finding one’s place in the future—BARTS theatre will be filled with beautifully constructed compositions and McMorrow’s awe-inspiring voice. www.barts.cat

CAN’T STOP

RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS. PALAU SANT JORDI. PASSEIG OLÌMPIC 5-7. OCTOBER 1ST & 2ND. Thirty-three years and 11 albums on, Californian music veterans, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, are proving that they are, in their own words, ‘addicted to the shindig’. Their sound is like no other, supplying the world with catchy funk tunes that just keep getting better. Five years after their chart topping album, I’m With You (2011), the quartet have released The Getaway (2016). The recent single, ‘Dark Necessities’, features a piano/bass intro that breaks into a funky bass riff, on a par with past singles such as ‘Californication’ and ‘The Zephyr Song’—comparisons that are sure to keep fans listening. If there was any doubt that RHCP were losing their touch, this sell-out tour is proof that their fanbase is still thriving, with additional shows scheduled in both Madrid and Barcelona. Reviews of the recent gigs report long sets and a ton of hits from the last three decades—exactly what the punters are hoping for. www.palausantjordi.cat

FOR MORE MUSIC EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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N.COM

BIRDSONG

STORNOWAY. L’AUDITORI. LEPANT 150. OCTOBER 8TH. Don’t let the name confuse you—Stornoway are not of Scottish origin, but are, in fact, a product of Oxford’s ever-growing music scene. Almost seven years since they became the first ever unsigned band to appear on the BBC’s Later... with Jools Holland, Stornoway have been steadily building up international recognition and developing their sound. The new album, Bonxie (2016), is a window into the mindset of the band, who often mix their interests in wildlife and conservation with their folk music—in fact, ‘Bonxie’ refers to a species of bird that originates in the Faroe Islands, halfway between Norway and Iceland. Described by the Independent as a ‘conservationist’s heartsong’, the music encourages and promotes a greater respect for the environment. Singer and lyricist, Brian Briggs, who wrote most of the material for the new album whilst staying in a caravan in the Welsh countryside, has clearly been influenced by the PhD he is currently pursuing, which focuses on ducks. And if their melodic, indie-folk does not appeal, surely the subtle incorporation of the calls of 20 different bird species will intrigue most music fans out there. www.auditori.cat

MECHANIC MUSIC

LEM FESTIVAL. VARIOUS VENUES. OCTOBER 1ST-31ST. This international experimental music festival, organised by the non-profit organisation Gràcia Territori Sonor, will host a range of eclectic music events this October, located in various venues around the city. On October 14th, French musician, composer and experimental musical instrument builder, Pierre Bastien will perform live at MACBA. Described by LEM as ‘a poet of mechanics and one of the most influential experimental creators’, Bastien will be creating imaginative musical compositions through the use of mechanics, such as cogs, cymbals and pulleys. Almo2bar will play host to Fuego, a Barcelona-based trio who use a combination of synthesizers, samples, randomness and error to create their unique, soothing sound. If mechanics and randomness are a bit too out there, electronic musician and jazz drummer Carlos Falanga’s new project, Grosso, may be more accessible. Its mix of synths, drum machines and vintage sounds will be adding some trance-inducing melodic music to LEM this year. lemfestival.wordpress.com

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WHAT’S ON

ART OPENINGS FUNDACIÓ FOTO COLECTANIA Yo quería ser fotógrafo Showcasing 11 projects by various artists, this exhibition invites viewers to question what it means to be a photographer today. Opening October 10th. Julián Romea 6. MNAC Marianne Breslauer A series of images taken by German photographer Marianne Breslauer during her visit to Spain in 1933, after being exiled from Germany. Opening October 27th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc. MACBA Miralda. Madeinusa Fourteen projects including sculptures, drawings and visual recordings, made by renowned Spanish ‘food artist’ Antoni Miralda in the USA between the midSeventies and the late Nineties. Opening October 21st. Plaça dels Àngels 1. FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Endgame: Duchamp, chess and the avant-garde This exhibition explores the fascinating relationship between the game of chess and 20th century avant-garde movements, from Surrealism to Conceptual Art. Opening October 29th. Parc de Montjuïc.

THE CRYSTAL IN THE FLAME CUBISM AND WAR. MUSEU PICASSO. MONTCADA 15-23. OCTOBER 21ST-JANUARY 29TH. This thought-provoking exhibition showcases over 80 works produced between 1913 and 1919, examining the survival of the European artistic avant-garde in Paris during the First World War (1914-1918). Featuring important works by Pablo Picasso, Juan Gris and Diego Riviera, the exhibition explores the experiences and creative evolution of the three artists, who, as foreigners living in France, were unable to participate directly in the military campaign. Prior to the war, Paris was home to a vibrant, dynamic art scene, and whilst the majority of artwork produced during the wartime period reflected the suffering of soldiers, this group of artists responded to the anxiety and fear with the development of a creative and positive artistic movement built upon cubist aesthetics with architectural elements. The exhibition also explores the role of other artists in similar circumstances, such as Gino Severini, as well as French artists Henri Matisse and Henri Laurens, who were unable to fight for various reasons, and produced some of their most experimental works during this period. www.bcn.cat/museupicasso

LAST CHANCE FUNDACIÓ GASPAR Anthony McCall: Solid light, performance and public works The New York-based artist presents his latest work, which challenges the traditional concept of sculpture and performance, as well as a selection of films and installations. Until October 31st. Montcada 25. FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Harun Farocki: Empathy This exhibition brings together the early militant films and video installations of German filmmaker, artist, critic and activist, Harun Farocki. Until October 16th. Aragó 255. MISCELANEA Blind Hearts Through a series of abstract portraits that represent society’s frustrations and vulnerability, this exhibition explores the detrimental effects of social constraints on our feelings and emotions. Until October 16th. Guardia 10.

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OPEN DOORS

48H OPEN HOUSE BARCELONA. VARIOUS LOCATIONS. OCTOBER 22ND-23RD. One of Barcelona’s biggest festivals of architecture is back for its seventh edition, with over 150 inspiring buildings opening their doors to showcase some of the city’s finest architecture. An initiative which began in London in 1992, the Open House project was brought to Barcelona in 2010 with the aim of enhancing the understanding and appreciation of Barcelona’s architecture among the wider community. Including a range of buildings from Roman ruins to Catalan Gothic, as well as modern creations, Open House provides the opportunity to learn more about the city’s rich history and cultural heritage. Over the course of the weekend, there will be a host of free activities, including lectures, conferences and tours organised by architects and volunteers, to encourage locals to engage with the city and its buildings on a more intimate level. www.openhouseworldwide.org

FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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GET A ROOM

1,000 M2 OF DESIRE: ARCHITECTURE AND SEXUALITY. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. OCTOBER 25TH-MARCH 19TH. This exhibition examines the way in which architecture has become an instrument for controlling and modelling sexual behaviours in Western culture. It explores how architectural spaces, both real and imaginary, have been used to construct roles and practices by various institutions throughout history, from the 19th-century bourgeois boudoir to the present day mega-brothels, luxury hotels and sex supermarkets. Curated by Adélaïde de Caters and Rosa Ferré, the exhibition offers an insight into the role architecture plays as a driving force of desire, as it analyses the sexual utopias of Ledoux, Fourier and Sade, the Sixties hippy communes, the 20th-century Paris maisons closes and the Playboy clubs of the Cold War. It also considers pornography as part of mainstream culture, the role of the media, cyberspace and virtual reality, and questions where our imagination has ended up in terms of places for desire? www.cccb.org

B A R C E L O N A’ S

BIGGEST

COMEDY EVENT 2nd-5th November

International Improv Comedy Festival €10 ENTRY 7.30pm to 11.30pm nightly at Teatre El Cercle. Carrer de Santa Magdalena, 12 Metro Fontana

www.barcelonaimprovfestival.com

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WHAT’S ON

MISC. ON THE MARKET

MERCAT DE MERCATS. PLAÇA DE LA CATEDRAL. OCTOBER 21ST-23RD. The local market is a centuries-long tradition and the lifeblood of communities around Barcelona. Year-round markets in each neighbourhood ensure that you never lack the opportunity to purchase fresh produce from local vendors. But the king of all Barcelona markets is the annual Mercat de Mercats, a collaborative effort between the Ajuntament de Barcelona, l’Institut Municipal de Mercats de Barcelona and Grup GSR, to bring together representatives from the city’s top markets and local establishments. The market features two outdoor areas—stalls where vendors from the various city markets gather to showcase their products and a designated tapas tasting area where Barcelona’s premier hotels and restaurants prepare one innovative dish each. The market also has two indoor areas—a Tasting Room and a Gastronomical Room—that host food and beverage tasting sessions and culinary workshops. This year’s lineup features everything from Peruvian food and vermouth tastings to workshops on chocolate and cooking for celiacs. somdemercat.cat

BIG IN JAPAN

22ND BARCELONA MANGA FAIR. FIRA DE BARCELONA MONTJUÏC. AVINGUDA DE LA REINA MARIA CRISTINA. OCTOBER 29TH-NOVEMBER 1ST. Step into the weird and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture and manga at the 22nd annual Barcelona Manga Fair, set to be bigger and better than ever before. The European manga market is currently worth over $250 million and no expense has been spared at this year’s event. There will be a wide range of activities on offer, including a Nintendo video gaming station, a children’s area, an exhibition exploring the origins of manga, as well as a host of workshops and shiatsu classes. There will also be a series of anime film screenings, readings by prominent Japanese authors, including Banana Yoshimoto and Mitsuyo Kakuta, as well as theatre and music performances. If comics aren’t your thing, there are also plenty of other activities related to Japanese culture—try your hand at Japanese pastry making, enjoy some peace and quiet in the meditation area or unwind in the authentic Japanese tea room. www.ficomic.com

BE PART OF IT

BARCELONA INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY DAY. MUSEU MARÍTIM. AVINGUDA DE LES DRASSANES. OCTOBER 22ND. 10AM-7PM. International Community Day is an annual gathering that provides information to foreign nationals living in Barcelona. Run by the Ajuntament de Barcelona, the event hosts dozens of talks and workshops throughout the day on issues such as job seeking, immigration, family resources, buying property and volunteering, and includes a presentation on culture from Esther Jones, founder of Barcelona Metropolitan. Workshops are conducted primarily in English, with some topics discussed in Spanish and Catalan. Information sessions are supplemented by a schedule of activities for the family, including storytelling, lego building and dance. Whether you’re new in town, looking to make a career change or aiming to network with other foreign nationals in the city, International Community Day can bring you one step closer to fulfilling your goals. Participation is free but prior online registration is required. internationalcommunityday. barcelonactiva.cat

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IN THE PINK

PINKTOBER. HARD ROCK CAFE. PL. CATALUNYA 21. THROUGHOUT OCTOBER. In an effort to raise money for breast cancer awareness projects and research, the Hard Rock Cafe hosts the 17th edition of the Pinktober campaign, with events, merchandise, live music and more throughout the month. Hard Rock venues around the world ‘go pink’ in honour of the campaign, from pink hotel amenities to pink drinks, and various Pinktober products, which can also be purchased online. The Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona participates annually in the campaign, with concerts every Thursday throughout the month by female artists, in partnership with various media outlets and organisations across the city. The lineup for 2016 includes Olivella White, the vocalist from Barcelona punk-rock band Buck, newly-formed Barcelona alternative-rock group Silhouet, and the George Lascon Project, a collection of international jazz and funk musicians who met at the Valencia Campus of Berklee College of Music. Metropolitan also shows its support, sponsoring American singer-songwriter Tori Sparks, joined on stage by jazz trio, Calamento, on October 13th. Proceeds raised internationally for Pinktober go to the Caron Keating Foundation, while locally they will benefit Barcelona-based breast cancer charity, FERO (Fundació privada d’Estudis i Recerca Oncològica). www.hardrock.com FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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Motherhood Yoga Training Retreat 2-7 NOVEMBER 2016

30 Hour Yoga Alliance US certification in: Pregnancy Yoga, Birthing Yoga, Postnatal Yoga, Baby Yoga. Plus: Training in Pregnancy & Herbal Thai Massage Recommended for Yoga Instructors or individuals/couples interested in holistic birth.

OCTOBER ON THE SILVER SCREEN

October in Barcelona is packed with acclaimed international film festivals for fans of all genres.

SITGES FILM FESTIVAL OCTOBER 7TH-16TH. Often considered the world’s top fantasy and horror film festival, the Sitges Film Festival showcases new trends in the genre and serves as a point of encounter for the most die-hard fantasy fans and top industry professionals. Christopher Walken is tipped to receive the Grand Honorary Award this year, and screenings will include Inside (2016), a remake of À l’intérieur (2007), which is about a pregnant woman under attack, Arés (2016), a film that imagines a post-apocalyptic Paris, and Mine (2016), a psychological thriller set in the Afghan desert. www.sitgesfilmfestival.com

Includes: Full board accommodation at Omshanti Yoga retreat Granollers, Vegetarian meals, daily yoga classes, Birthlight manual Contact & Info: Katey Wheelhouse Tel. 645 303 445 katey@birthlightontour.com www.BirthlightOnTour.com

SPECIAL METROPOLITAN READER OFFER:

SAVE €250!

BEEFEATER IN-EDIT

VARIOUS LOCATIONS. OCTOBER 27TH-NOVEMBER 5TH. Dedicated to exploring the intersection between music and films, Beefeater In-Edit screens musical documentaries from around the world. This year’s screenings include A Poem is a Naked Person (1978), which explores Leon Russell’s world in Seventies Oklahoma, Strike a Pose (2016), a deeply personal story about Madonna’s backup dancers from her ‘Blonde Ambition’ tour and their lives in the gay community after, and Raving Iran (2016), a film about making house music in Islamic Iran. www.in-edit.org

BARCELONA INTERNATIONAL GAY AND LESBIAN FILM

FESTIVAL. FILMOTECA DE CATALUNYA. PLAÇA DE SALVADOR SEGUÍ 9. OCTOBER 14TH-23RD. The FICGLB returns for its 15th edition, exploring specific LGBT realities in depth—transgender youth, sexuality between Muslim women, sexual abuse within families and sadomasochism, among others. Over 50 films will be screened coming from Canada, Israel, India, France, Denmark, the US and Mexico, which is this year’s country of honour. www.barcelonafilmfestival.org

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WED NE SDAY

HARUN FAROCKI, EMPATHY This exhibition recovers films and installations by the late filmmaker, artist and activist.

LEM FESTIVAL This annual festival provides a platform for international experimental music. Various locations.

GIPSY BALKAN ORCHESTRA This international group has diverse musical influences, from Serbian gypsy songs to Arabic

48 VOLLDAMM JAZZ FESTIVAL (24TH-18TH NOV)

TU ESDAY

MO NDAY

WHAT'S ON

EROTIC SHOW The world of erotica is brought to Barcelona with the return of this annual convention. CEM

T HURSDA Y

FOOD AND EMOTIONS This workshop explores food cravings through neuro-linguistic programming techniques,

RED HOT CHILLI PEPPERS (1ST)

FRIDAY

SWAB BARCELONA 2016 The international contemporary art fair returns for its 9th edition. Fira Barcelona Montjuïc. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Sept 29thOct 2nd.

RED HOT CHILLI PEPPERS The infamous LA rock band present new album, The Getaway (2016), on their latest international tour. 7pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 1st & 2nd.

STORNOWAY This English indie-folk group perform hits from their latest album, Bonxie (2015). 8pm. L’Auditori.

EL FLEA The monthly market returns with more bargains and second-hand steals. 10am. Pl. de Blanquerna.

BLACKLAB OKTOBERFEST This two-day event is inspired by the original German beer festival, with folk music, raffles and Bavarian dishes. BlackLab Brewery. Plaça Pau Vila 1. 1st & 2nd.

NADANDO EN EL OLVIDO A musical composition by Enric Palomer celebrating the work of narrator and poet, Leopoldo María Panero. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

SUN DAY

48 VOLLDAMM JAZZ FESTIVAL (OCT 24TH-DEC 21ST)

SAT URDAY

OCTOBER 2016

WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE

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26 MARIANNE BRESLAUER This photographic collection showcases work by the German photographer for the first time in Spain. MNAC. Parc de Montjuïc. Oct 26th-Jan 29th.

GÓTICO TOUR A Catalan culinary route that stops at various venues in the Gothic Quarter to sample tapas. 7pm. Lluçanès 41-43.

SMASHING CONFERENCE A range of practical talks and workshops exploring web design. 8am. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 25th-26th.

1000M2 OF DESIRE, ARCHITECTURE AND SEXUALITY An exhibition questioning the role of architecture in human sexual behaviours. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Oct 25th-March 19th.

SITGES FILM FESTIVAL The famous fantasy and horror film festival returns to Sitges showcasing new trends and screenings. Various locations. 7th-16th.

65DAYSOFSTATIC This instrumental-electronic rock group from Sheffield perform in celebration of Razzlive. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

CUBISM AND WAR. THE CRYSTAL IN THE FLAME This exhibition focuses on the artistic wave that survived and thrived during the First World War. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. Oct 21st-Jan 29th.

OUISHARE FEST BCN 2016 An interdisciplinary festival and international gathering of entrepreneurs and social innovators. 9am. Parc Tecnològic. Marie Curie 8-14. 26th-27th.

LEE FIELDS (13TH)

INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW This fair showcases a variety of vessels and equipment, alongside a range of nautical activities. Port Vell. Until 16th.

LIBER BOOK FAIR Revamped for this year’s edition, this book fair now focuses on digital content within the Spanish language book sector. Fira de Barcelona Montjuïc. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Until 14th.

NO SINNER This blues quartet from Vancouver perform tracks from their new album. 9.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

MACBETH The Shakespearean classic is retold in Verdi’s surrealistic production. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. Various dates.

CERAMICS AT MUSEU PICASSO A special photographic exhibition that portrays Picasso working on ceramics. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. Until 23rd.

GIPSY BALKAN ORCHESTRA This international group has diverse musical influences, from Serbian gypsy songs to Arabic and Catalan melodies. 9.45pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

LEONIDAS KAVAKOS AND ENRICO PACE This violin and piano duo present an emotive performance. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

HARUN FAROCKI, EMPATHY This exhibition recovers films and installations by the late filmmaker, artist and activist. Fundació Antoni Tàpies. Aragó 255. Until 16th.

LEM FESTIVAL This annual festival provides a platform for international experimental music. Various locations. Sept 29th-Oct 29th.

BEST DESIGN OF THE YEAR Architecture and design exhibition with 300 works featured in this year’s FAD awards. Disseny Hub Barcelona. Pl. de les Glòries Catalanes 37. Until 20th.

CHEMICAL BROTHERS The legendary duo perform tracks from their latest album. 8pm. Poble Espanyol. Av Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13.

BEEFEATER IN-EDIT A platform for musical documentaries, with screenings from the biggest names in the genre. In-Edit Producciones. Baixada de Gomis 1. Oct 27th -Nov 6th.

LEGEND OF ZELDA: SYMPHONY OF THE GODDESSES The soundtrack of the popular Nintendo video game is performed by a live orchestra. 8.30pm. CCIB. Pl. de Willy Brandt 11-14.

MERCAT DE MERCATS A food fair that presents fresh produce, tapas and cooking demonstrations from across the city’s markets. Av. de la Catedral. 9pm. 21st-23rd.

THE VOICES OF WOMEN Paper, digital and audio artifacts that document the role of women in recent Catalan history. Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de Barcelona. Santa Llùcia 1. Until 31st.

SOPA DE CABRA Considered a pioneering group of the Catalan rock movement, the Girona-based band celebrate their 30th anniversary. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

GAY AND LESBIAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL The 15th edition of this festival presents over 50 short and feature films from around the globe. Various locations. 14th-23rd.

48 VOLLDAMM JAZZ FESTIVAL This international festival hosts an array of free concerts, masterclasses, conferences and activities dedicated to the musical genre. Various Locations. Oct 24th-Dec 21st.

TITANIC LIVE ORCHESTRA The popular blockbuster is screened alongside a live symphony orchestra and choir. 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 14th-16th.

FIFTH HARMONY Winners of the X Factor USA in 2012, the American girl group arrive in Barcelona as part of their ‘7/27 Tour’. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.

JÄGERMUSIC TOUR A unique party with live music and a range of exclusive Jägermeister gifts. 8pm. Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

FOOD AND EMOTIONS This workshop explores food cravings through neuro-linguistic programming techniques, theoretical teaching and cooking classes. 6.30pm. Canuda 26.

TORI SPARKS The American singer-songwriter performs alongside flamenco group Calamento as part of the Pinktober charity campaign. 9pm. Hard Rock Cafe. Pl. Catalunya 21.

LEE FIELDS & THE EXPRESSIONS Dubbed ‘little James Brown’, the American singer is known for his soulful performances. 8pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

BARCELONA GAMES WORLD The first edition of this event, which is dedicated to the world of video games. 10am. Fira Barcelona Montjuïc. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Until 9th.

EROTIC SHOW The world of erotica is brought to Barcelona with the return of this annual convention. CEM Olímpics. Pg. Vall d’Hebron 166. Until 9th.

EL BARRIO Enjoy a night of Spanish flamenco as El Barrio return for a special tour celebrating 20 years. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.

WHILE SHE SLEEPS This English metal group perform as part of the new rock festival, Resurrection Fest. 7.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY DAY An annual event aimed at providing useful information and orientation for foreign nationals in Barcelona. 10am-7pm. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes.

OPEN HOUSE This citywide architecture event allows public access to more than 150 buildings. Various locations. Until 23rd.

DANZA HAWAIIAN ANCESTRAL Chanting workshops, lyrical analysis and choreography, followed by an evening concert. 11am. Centre Civic Cotxeres Borrell. Viladomat 2.

TWIN PEAKS American garage-punk and psychedelic rock group celebrate their third album with this energetic concert. 1am. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

LAURA PAUSINI Internationally acclaimed Italian singer-songwriter will be belting out both classic hits and new tracks from her latest album, Simili (2015). 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.

STORNOWAY This English indie-folk group perform hits from their latest album, Bonxie (2015). 8pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

XXII BARCELONA MANGA FAIR Exhibitions dedicated to Manga comics, films and video games, and Japanese culture. Fira Barcelona Montjuïc. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Oct 29th-Nov 1st.

CURSA BOMBERS 2016 Sponsored by Nike, the 2016 edition of the 10k run sees a change of date and route. 9.30am. Starting point: Av. Marquès de l’Argentera. 30th.

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MUZZICA FEST 2016 Celebrating acoustic music, this festival presents a cycle of live concerts featuring numerous emerging artists. Sala Fizz. Balmes 83. 22nd-23rd.

ESCENA POBLENOU A multidisciplinary festival of contemporary performing arts showcasing a range of talents, with workshops and shows. Can Felipa. Pallers 277. 20th-23rd.

SALÓN INTERNACIONAL DEL CARAVANING Showcasing over 600 caravan models, this festival inspires people to get closer to nature. Fira de Barcelona. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. 15th-23rd.

APOLLON MUSAGETE The Polish string quartet perform as part of the Polonaise Music Festival. 6pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

WEDDING MARKET A two-day, indie-inspired event, with over 60 exhibitors and activities to help you plan the big day in boho-chic style. 10am. Torre Bellesguard. Bellesguard 16. 8th-9th.

EL FLEA The monthly market returns with more bargains and second-hand steals. 10am. Pl. de Blanquerna. Portal de Santa Madrona.

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IN THE CITY

How to...

Learn a language for free BY ARON PENCZU

here are two essential truths about English-speakers in Barcelona: (1) they have been to an intercambio, and (2) they wish their foreign language skills, whether it's Spanish or Catalan, were better. For every celebration of triumph against a foreign tongue, there’s the sagging sensation of total drift. Learning a

language takes time—work deadlines, trips abroad and everyday responsibilities quickly wipe out the fantasy of imminent ﬂuency. Language learning is also expensive. But there’s no better place to learn a language than in its native surroundings, and we're convinced that it needn't cost an arm and a leg. Here are some ideas to get you started:

1. VOLUNTEERING

2. EMAIL, WHATSAPP, MESSENGER

Bar room intercambios are always a little strained—it’s easier to hang out with friends than total strangers, and the lack of obligation adds to the risk of inconsistency. Weekly volunteering with a steady group solves these issues and increases the probability of meeting non-English speakers, so you don't have the option to switch to English at every hitch. Beneﬁts include conversing with locals and feeling morally superior to your friends.

Writing to bilingual friends in Spanish is an easy way to integrate writing into your everyday routine. On a phone, install a Spanish keyboard to help practise spelling. On your laptop, bookmarking a dictionary, spell check and conjugation tool can speed up the process.

3. OCCASIONAL READINGS

4. LIBRARIES

Each day is ﬁlled with opportunities to read Spanish, generally for things you’d much rather scan in English. The backs of condiments, informative plaques, newspaper headlines, instruction manuals and restaurant menus—you’re surrounded by chances to learn. Museums are especially good because there is often a translation available when needed.

Every neighbourhood has one, they’re stocked with language books and you don’t need a NIE to get a library card. If, like many residents, you have had plenty of conversational exposure but little formal grammar, setting aside some library hours or borrowing a book may be the fastest route to improvement. You can ﬁgure out your CREF level (A1, A2, etc.) with a free online test (dele. cervantes.es), which should help you choose the right text, and give you some idea of where you stand.

5. ONLINE TOOLS

6. CLASSES

The Duolingo app is a brilliant way to begin learning, whilst lang–8 (a language exchange social networking website) can help practise the neglected skill of writing. Another option is to sign up for a daily news roundup from La Vanguardia. On a smartphone with a Spanish dictionary installed, you can tap words to look them up while reading articles. Embedding this into your daily routine (reading on your commute to work or alongside a morning coffee) can help keep it up.

Because sometimes the obvious choice is best. Catalan classes, heavily subsidised by the state, are available without charge across Catalunya—a good starting-point is cnpl.cat, the Consortium for Linguistic Normalisation’s ofﬁcial website. And though free Spanish is harder to ﬁnd, the CCOO (Via Laietana 16) provides courses of up to 140 hours without charge, and some schools have particularly cheap options—you can even be the guinea pig for trainee teachers at International House Barcelona (Trafalgar 14) with their ‘almost free Spanish lessons for adults’.

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Grass Roots

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS, THE ESPADRILLE, A TRADITIONAL PEASANT'S SHOE, HAS BECOME A FASHION ICON BY MELISSA LEIGHTY

ome summer, espadrilles (espardenyas in Catalan or alpargatas in Spanish) are the shoe of the season. Thought to originate in the Pyrenees, both men and women can be seen sporting the casual footwear, which typically consists of a fabric upper and a distinctive sole made of jute rope, in a variety of colours, fabrics and styles. Although the season may now be fading, the shoe’s popularity continues on—Barcelona native Alex Vintró loves wearing the local shoe, favouring the espardenyas de vetes—so named for the woven laces (known as ‘vetes’ or veins) that tie at the ankles. “They are old-school Catalan footwear which, for a nationally conscious person like me, adds to their appeal,” he explained. Vintró’s preferred espadrilles are made by La Manual Alpargatera, based in a small workshop on Carrer Avinyó, just a short walk from Plaça Reial. Indeed, the workshop of La Manual Alpargatera is an iconic stop for locals, tourists and even Hollywood celebrities. It remains in the same spot where it first opened in the Forties, just after the Spanish Civil War ended, and whilst their signature espadrilles are still created in the small workshop at the back of the shop, the owners opened a larger workshop in Horta in the intervening years to cope with demand. Today, they sell between 30,000 and 40,000 pairs of their most basic espadrille per year, a simple slip-on with a canvas upper, priced at €12. Unlike the luxury brands, such as Castañer, low prices are another reason why their shoes remain so popular. La Manual Alpargatera offers a wide variety of espadrilles, both nontraditional styles and the established classic models. Each region (in Catalunya and beyond) has its own style of espardenya, many of which are

named after places or people who have worn them. The ‘Valls’ espadrille— white canvas with seven blue laces—is popular among the Mossos d’Esquadra, the Catalan police force, while the ‘Valencia’, with its white canvas and red laces, is reminiscent of Spain’s bullfighting past. Although conceived as a seasonal working shoe, the espadrille has also played an important cultural role over the years. The generic ‘Catalan’ espadrille (white canvas with black cotton ribbons that lace thickly across the toe and around the ankle), for example, is associated with traditional sardana dancing and is perhaps the most iconic of all. In addition to the classics, the shop can also custom produce designs using fabrics and materials from the workshop or brought in by clients.

The shoe has an indefinable quality that moves beyond aesthetic appeal La Manual Alpargatera is also the favourite espadrille shop of Àngeles Ortega, owner of Foodie Experience Barcelona, a local cooking school situated nearby. When teaching visitors about local culture, she regularly espouses the shoe’s virtues and sends curious clients to the shop. She appreciates the shoe for its simplicity, aesthetics and, particularly, its roots. “I enjoy the poetry of an object that comes from such humble origins,” she explained, referring to the shoe’s beginnings as footwear for peasants.

Above: Today, the espadrille is available in a variety of colours, fabrics and styles; Right: Barcelona native Alex Vintró sporting his espardenyas de vetes

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She admires them for being what she calls ‘survivors’—a shoe whose simplicity, function and form have helped it to both maintain its identity and to grow and evolve into something new. Ortega also has a personal connection to the history of the shoe. Her grandfather, who hailed from southern Spain, used to weave the straw, or jute, for the soles. Shoemaking has long since been an important industry in Spain. Born as a shoe for the working class, espadrilles have been made in the Pyrenean region, as well as some other parts of Spain, since the 14th century, although the oldest form of espadrille is thought to date back some 4,000 years, having been discovered in the Cueva de los Murciélagos (Bat Cave) of Albuñol in Granada. Although today’s styles differ somewhat from this antique version, the shoe’s structure has essentially remained the same over the millennia. The braided sole continues to be made from natural fibres, which were chosen due to the wide availability of Mediterranean grasses and were favoured for their comfort and durability by farmers, soldiers and clergymen. Soles were once handmade from hemp, jute or esparto, although jute is now the most widely used material in the shoe’s production. This material is appreciated for its insulation qualities, low thermal conductivity and its ability to mould to the foot. It is also biodegradable and recyclable.

WHERE TO FIND THEM La Manual Alpargatera Avinyo 7 T. 93 301 0172 www.lamanualalpargatera.es Bon Vent Argenteria 41 T. 93 295 4053 www.bonvent.cat

Castañer Cristina Castañer Rosselló 230 (also available in El Corte Inglés) www.castaner.com Toni Pons www.tonipons.cat

La Manual Alpargatera

By the mid-19th century, the growing textile industry in Catalunya encouraged the mechanisation of the process and contributed to an increase in the shoe’s production. The trend was reversed, however, in the midFifties when mass urban migration meant a downturn for the espadrille, whose largely agrarian function was no longer required by workers moving away from the fields and into the factories. The Banyoles-based family company Castañer can be largely credited for reversing this trend once more by collaborating with fashion designers Yves Saint Laurent to repurpose the shoe as a luxury item. An aesthetic transformation began in the Seventies, when YSL commissioned Castañer to create a wedge-heeled version of their traditional espadrilles, although the shoe actually began to make its mark even earlier within celebrity circles, appearing in the 1948 movie Key Largo on the feet of Hollywood actress Lauren Bacall. Due to these innovations and the savvy marketing and branding strategies of other espadrille companies, the shoe has since seen a meteoric rise. It can no longer be defined as a flat shoe with a simple canvas upper, but a wide-ranging line of shoes that includes both the original version and couture iterations. High-end brands, like Castañer and Toni Pons, are still growing steadily, opening up a competitive market. The Luxonomist reported last year that Castañer had 15 boutiques in Europe and Asia, an online shop and operations in more than 50 countries, with the intention of opening 40-50 new stores by 2017. Despite the impressive growth of the espadrille in a trend-conscious market, the shoe has an indefinable quality that moves beyond aesthetic appeal. Àngeles struggled to put this into words, but came close when she recalled a conversation she once had with the owner of La Manual Alpargatera. She asked him how he remained so fit at his age, to which he replied “I always wear my espadrilles. That’s the secret.” She laughed fondly at the memory and agreed that regardless of the technical qualities of the espadrille, their best selling point is that “they will keep you young”.

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FASHION

in style

MARKET-GOERS KEPT THINGS BRIGHT AND WHITE, SHOWING OFF SUN-KISSED SKIN AT PALO ALTO.

Name: Tiago Age: 33 Profession: Cobbler From: Portugal Shirt: Springﬁeld Trousers: Vintage (belonged to his grandfather) Shoes and Belt: Urban Shepherds Watch: Casio

Name: Marta Age: 32 Profession: Consultant From: Basque Country Flower: H&M Glasses: Dolce & Gabbana Top: Topshop Skirt: Nona Shoesandclothes Watch: Casio Shoes: Oysho Bag: Natura

Name: Beatriz Age: 39 Profession: Doctor From: Spain Dress: La Casita de Wendy Shoes: Camper Glasses: Cazal Watch: Tissot

GET THE LOOK CAZAL GLASSES €265

URBAN SHEPHERDS SHOES €195

H&M FLOWER €12.99

LA CASITA DE WENDY DRESS €88 OYSHO SHOES €29.99

SPRINGFIELD SHIRT (€24.99) NOW €19.99 H&M LA RAMBLA 131. OYSHO AVINGUDA DEL PORTAL DE L’ÀNGEL 15-17. SPRINGFIELD LA RAMBLA 138. LA CASITA DE WENDY WWW.LACASITADEWENDY.COM URBAN SHEPHERDS MERCADERS 11. CAZAL WWW.SHOP.CAZAL-EYEWEAR.COM

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TRAVEL la Basse as it flows through the city centre

Journey to the Centre of the Earth

a quicK guide to PerPignan—the first Port of call heading north across the french Border BY ROSALIND BOND

ver wondered where the centre of the universe is? Turns out it’s Perpignan railway station, or so proclaimed artist Salvador Dalí when, following a trip to the city, he said that he always got his best ideas in its waiting room. Dalí’s painting La Gare de Perpignan (1965) encapsulates the feelings of ‘cosmogonic ecstasy’ that he experienced there on September 19th, 1963. Today, there is a monument to Dalí on top of the station, and ‘Perpignan centre du monde’ (Perpignan centre of the world) is inscribed across the surface of one of the platforms. With its warm, terracotta glow, treelined squares and labyrinth of medieval streets, the accolade is not entirely undeserved. At just one hour and 20 minutes by high-speed rail link from Barcelona, and five hours from Paris, Perpignan may be part of France, but its historic ties with Catalunya remain strong. Today, Perpignan is the capital of the modern day Pyrénées-Orientales department, but it was once the main city in French Catalunya, the portion of the principality ceded to the French in the 1648 Treaty of the Pyrenees, and the Catalan spirit flourishes here—street names, cuisine and traditional festivities all embody the city’s Catalan heritage. Modern Perpignan has a multicultural flavour and is home to several vibrant international communities, making for a diverse city and an interesting weekend destination just a stone’s throw away.

TOP SIGHTS Settlements in the area are thought to date back to the Roman period, although the medieval town of Perpignan was founded in the 10th century. The old town lies at the heart of the city’s historic centre, just a short walk east of the railway station. Most sights are situated in the centre and can be easily visited on foot. PALAIS DES ROIS DE MAJORQUE (Palace of the Kings of Mallorca) The 13th and 14th centuries marked a golden age for Perpignan, when it became the continental capital of the Kingdom of Mallorca, a region that covered the Balearic islands and the counties of Roussillon and Cerdanya. Due to its position of importance, Perpignan started constructing this palace-fortress in 1276 in the Gothic style. Built on a hill, the ramparts provide sweeping views across Perpignan’s ochre rooftops. Rue des Archers. Open every day, 9am-5pm. cathédrale saint-Jean-BaPtiste Construction work started on Perpignan’s cathedral in 1324, although it was not completed until 1509. The imposing structure looms over the old town in all its Gothic grandeur. 1 Rue de l’Horlage. Open Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, SaturdaySunday 11am-5.30pm. Place de la loge The Place de la Loge is Perpignan’s historic

administrative centre and is home to a row of three important civic buildings. Firstly, there’s the 14th-century, Gothic Loge de Mer, which was once Perpignan’s stock exchange, then a maritime tribunal, and today houses a café. Secondly, the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall), a 12th-century building with two archways that lead into an airy courtyard. Finally, next door to the town hall is the 15thcentury Palais de la Députation, which used to be the seat of the local parliament. le castillet This former city gate is now all that remains of the city’s medieval defensive walls. Built in 1368, the red-bricked edifice stands imposing, watching over all those wishing to enter or leave the city. Today, it houses the Casa Païral Museum of Catalan arts and traditions. Place de Verdun. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11am-5.30pm. Marché réPuBlique A bustling, local food market held Tuesday to Sunday from 7.30am to 1.30pm in the city’s lively central square, Place de la République. Parc de sant-Vicens Boasting a wild smattering of Mediterranean riverside flora and fauna, this lush park is a treat for those looking to escape the city for an afternoon. Many walkways and cycle paths weave through the wilderness and there are picnic spots where you can sit and take in the natural beauty. Traditional

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FACTFILE ceramicists come here to sell their wares from Tuesday-Sunday. L’HÔTEL PAMS This lavish mansion, with its sumptuous interior of gold, marble and onyx, exemplifies the tastes of the wealthy elite at the turn of the 20th century. It is owned by the city council and opens to the public in September for the renowned international photojournalism festival, Visa Pour L’Image. 18 Rue Emile-Zola. cinéMa castillet The ornate, Art Nouveau Cinéma Castillet, built in 1911, is believed to be the oldest cinema in France still in operation and has a special connection with Barcelona. During the Franco era, people would cross the border to Perpignan to escape Spain’s strict censorship rules, which prohibited them from watching anything considered to be erotic, and the Cinéma Castillet was a top destination to see such films. The original building currently houses a bank and the Castillet cinema has moved next door. 1 Boulevard Wilson. théâtre l’archiPel Designed by France’s leading starchitect, Jean Nouvel, in collaboration with Brigitte Metra, Perpignan’s newest cultural landmark is the eye-catching Théâtre l’Archipel, opened in 2011. It’s possible to visit this daring architectural oddity by guided tour, or check out the listings of upcoming performances via the website, theatredelarchipel.org. Avenue Général Leclerc. square Bir haKeiM This three-hectare park, considered the city’s green lung for the past two centuries, is situated east of the city centre. It’s a peaceful spot, known for its incredible trees, including plane trees dating from 1809 and a ginko biloba tree with a circumference of 3.80 metres and a height of 30 metres.

EATING AND DRINKING La Baratine A friendly, cosy bistro tucked away in the corner of this rustic square. 1 Place de la Révolution Française. labaratine.fr Les Frères Mossé This vintage bistro serves up authentic French fare. 14 Rue de la Fusterie. www.facebook.com/lesfreresmosse Le Saint Jean Located beneath the ancient arches of the cathedral, with a stunning patio surrounded by carved Medieval walls, this restaurant provides French food with a twist. 1 Rue Cité Bartissol. lesaint-jean.com

SLEEPING Hôtel de la Loge Hidden away in one of the old town’s narrow alleyways, this mid-range hotel is housed in an ancient building and makes the perfect base to explore the delights of the old town. 1 Rue Fabriqués d’en Nabot. www.hoteldelaloge.com République Serviced Apartments Compact and stylish holiday apartments in Perpignan’s lively central square. 1Bis Place de la République. republique2.com

GETTING THERE le castillet is all that remains of the city’s medieval walls

Train. Barcelona Sants-Perpignan by high-speed train (AVE). 1 hour 20 minutes. www.renfe.com Car. 2 hours (200km).

CINEMA CASTILLET LE CASTILLET/ PLACE DE VERDUN CATREDALE SAINT JEAN BAPTISTE

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

Photos courtesy of The Witty

The Witty AN ELEGANT EVENING WITH THE CLASSICS BY SAM ZUCKER

s I sit in the candlelit dining room of The Witty restaurant (situated within the new Wittmore Hotel in the Barri Gòtic), surrounded by well-worn oriental rugs, dark wooden bookshelves, plush arm chairs and an open fireplace, I am reminded of how rarely I experience classic and elegant hotel dining in Barcelona. When compared to other boutique, five-star hotels in the city, the Wittmore is decidedly less design-focused and more retro than the competition, though there is just enough vintage cool here (from the intricate botanical wallpaper to the odd, ceramic, dog-shaped salt and pepper shakers on each table), to make this inviting space feel as if it’s straight out of a Wes Anderson film. The central dining area of The Witty is also the core atrium of the hotel, shooting up some 25 metres and flanked on one wall by a lush vertical garden that stretches from the dining room floor to the hotel’s roof terrace. The food and service at The Witty are superb, and although they have no Michelin stars, this is the kind of space I imagine when I think of chef Marco Pierre White and the dawn of modern fine dining in the grand hotels of France and England during the Eighties. The Witty’s ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

veteran chef, Albert Ventura (formerly of Coure restaurant), is supported behind the bar by famed Barcelona mixologist Patxi Paniagua, whose appealing cocktail menu tempted me to push back dinner an hour or two just to work my way through each boozy preparation (Oyster Martini, anyone?). The a la carte offering is the same for both lunch and dinner, and many of the dishes conjured delicious flashbacks to my studies in classic French cuisine at the Culinary Institute of America, labouring over textbook dishes like boeuf Bourguignon, sole à la meunière, glazed endives and rillettes of mackerel.

This is the kind of space I imagine when I think of the dawn of modern fine dining in the grand hotels of France and England during the Eighties A stiff drink in the form of an oak-aged Negroni opened my palate for the barrage of divine flavours to come, and as soon as I bit into the warm slice of dark rye bread, slathered in rich beurre d’Échiré (butter from Échiré in westcentral France) that accompanied my briny and plump oyster from Brittany, I knew this meal ✪✪✪ GOOD

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

would be pure pleasure. The wine list is a fairly even split between French and Spanish labels, and our white-jacketed waiter recommended a bold and powerful bottle of Pintia 2011 (D.O. Toro). Bursting with aromas of stewed berries, plums, and cocoa, it was delightful. The oysters were followed by mackerel rillettes, bright with acidity from the escabeche marinade and just a touch sweet from a studding of thin rounds of carrot. Served with several disks of room temperature herb butter and a little heap of pan-fried strips of bread, the combination of textures and the subtleness of the fish made me feel like I could have easily consumed the entire pot on my own. In between courses, I smiled to myself every time the waiters meticulously cleared the entire table to make way for fresh plates and flatware. I love these little touches of professional service. They even de-crumbed the table with a special, metal crumb catcher, bringing me back to my days as a waiter, scraping tablecloths clean with controlled urgency just before the next plate arrived. The final courses consisted of beef Wellington—a supple beef tenderloin wrapped in pastry, roasted medium rare, and bathed in a dark and rich beef jus—and the coquelet asada, a baby chicken (often called poussin), slow-

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

2 medium-sized squid, cleaned and cut into rings, tentacles roughly chopped 6 large tomatoes, sliced 1 tsp cayenne pepper or dried chilli powder 3 glasses red wine I confess to finding squid and octopus quite difficult to cook and get right. After years in Spain, where tender rings of calamari and crunchy chipirones (baby cuttlefish) are always done to perfection, I have become lazy about doing it and somewhat intimidated. My attempts always seem to be on the tough side, no matter how quick I cook it. But, this ultra simple recipe is foolproof and makes a delicious tapa, washed down with a glass of cold white wine— something basic like Barbadillo, which hails from near Cádiz and is made from the sherry grape, Palomino Fina. I cook it frequently at my mother’s

2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp sherry vinegar (to taste) 3 glasses water Salt, pepper and a sprig of rosemary

summer getaway in Nerja, near Málaga, and it has yet to let me down, especially as you can prepare it well in advance. It keeps well in the fridge for 3-4 days. METHOD 1. Place all the ingredients in a pot, except for the rosemary and water. 2. Bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer for about 30 minutes. 3. Keep an eye on it, adding water when it starts to look dry. 4. Cook for a further 30 minutes, or until the squid

Recipe SQUID IN RED WINE

Photo by Tara Stevens

INGREDIENTS (serves 6 as a tapa)

is very tender and the liquid has thickened, adding the rosemary sprig 5-10 minutes before the end (if you add it earlier the spiny leaves fall into the mix and are unpleasant, you just want the hint of earthiness it gives). 5. Remove the rosemary sprig and remove the pot from the heat. 6. Serve at room temperature with plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the juices, or hot as a main course with rice or pasta.

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MORE INFO

Photos courtesy of The Witty

Riudarenes 7 thewittmore.com ✪✪✪✪✪

roasted until practically falling of the bone and coated in a simple reduction of the roast drippings and butter that formed a decadent and deeply savoury glaze. It was out of this world. These main courses were accompanied by a purée of potato, which was a bit thick and pasty for my taste (the only fault of the entire evening), and a well-executed dish of glazed endives, slowly braised in chicken stock and orange juice, and mounted with butter and bruléed in the broiler to order. The dessert was cheesecake, a surprisingly light mousse sandwiched between graham cracker crust, topped with fresh berries and a sprinkling of dehydrated raspberries, crushed into dust. As a final goodbye, a tray of petit fours arrived; a pair of passionfruit macarons and some cocoa-dusted chocolate truffles. Come winter, I can imagine The Witty being an ideal spot for a warming evening meal and cocktail. With the fireplace roaring in the lounge, rich stews bubbling in the kitchen and plush chairs inviting you to linger over your meal, the stage is set to savour each sip of wine and contemplate every delectable bite.

in season: OCTOBER Avocados, tomatoes, octopus (pulpo) and game

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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QUICK BITES

Bellavista del Jardín del Norte A CULINARY CROSSROADS BY SAM ZUCKER

“I

don’t have a favourite restaurant. My favourite restaurant would be one in which everything I love to eat is combined under one roof.” These are the words of Juan Carlos Iglesias, one of the three Iglesias brothers—a famous family of Barcelona restaurateurs, originally from Galicia. As he and I sit in the high-ceilinged dining room of the brothers’ newest restaurant, Bellavista del Jardín del Norte, he explained that the wide-ranging and exciting gastronomy concept for this vast restaurant space boils down to the idea that it is considered as a pueblo (village), where the roads of different cuisines and cultures intersect. This ‘village’ includes seating areas modelled after a news stand, a barbershop, a grocery store, a church and a neighbourhood bar. The Iglesias brothers have been behind the creation of some of Barcelona’s most famous restaurants, including Tickets (and the rest of the Adrià restaurants), Espai Kru and Cañota. This time, they have moved away from their ‘empire’ along Avinguda del Paral·lel to Carrer d’Enric Granados in the Eixample, and joined forces with another famous name: Messi. Rodrigo Messi, along with siblings Leo and María Sol, reached out to the Iglesias brothers to bring this colourful and creative project to life. Bellavista del Jardín del Norte is a 1,000-square-metre space that serves everything from authentic breakfasts, classic tapas and vermouth, to an extensive raw bar offering, many preparations of succulent bluefin tuna— the par patana (collar bone) cut was incredible—eccentric dishes, like warm turbot with pickled vegetables and spicy Peruvian chalaca sauce, and even a couple of Argentinean specialties, including dulce de leche desserts and pounded beef Milanesa. In addition to a menu that is dizzying in its variety, Bellavista del Jardín del Norte has many other draws that have already had people pouring in since they opened in July, namely the vintage video game machines (200 games, all free), board games and vinyl records in the Foosball-themed ‘Bar del Pueblo’ area of the restaurant, and the private upstairs dining/viewing areas, each equipped with massive television screens and Playstation consoles for football viewing parties, lunch meetings or celebrations.

Tastings

MORE INFO

Enric Granados 86-88 Tel. 93 856 2949 Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am-11.30pm Sat-Sun 10am-11.30pm

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BARREL After recently receiving the Geoffrey Roberts Award 2016 —a bursary for research in emerging wine regions—I spent a month travelling around Georgia, researching a new book for my Vinologue series. For those unfamiliar with the wines of Georgia, there are some rather unique varieties. While 98 percent of Georgian wines are produced using similar

methods to the Spanish, there is a small faction that employ an 8,000-year-old technique using large clay vessels, called kvevri, submerged in the ground. Although there is evidence of this method being used in Spain several thousand years ago, an interest in nonoak-barrel ageing has only recently been rekindled. This month, I present two Catalan wines crafted in this manner.

SICUS - SONS MONASTRELL 2013 Eduard Pié vinifies this wine with clay amphorae buried in his vineyard in the lower Penedès region. It shows wonderful complexity with floral notes sitting on top of dark fruits. This method takes a great deal of the rustic, rough edges off the Monastrell to produce a truly intricate wine. €40

MAS MARTINET - ELS ESCURÇONS 2013 This has been an ongoing project by Sara Peréz, and while the 2012 was uneven, the 2013 vintage shows the fruit of her labours—a wine that has been aged between clay amphorae and glass demijohns. One hundred percent Grenache from a high altitude vineyard in Priorat, the red fruit notes of the grape are immediately apparent, but there is a good deal of lift and grace to the wine. Herbal notes come into play and the wine manages to stay light on the palate. €70

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NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER 4BARRI GÒTIC

BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday from 8pm onwards.

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com, www.eatdirtyburger.com

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández. Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Indian / Tandoori

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag.

NEW BEER TOUR

IMPRFCTO BAR4 SANT ANTONI

SURYA4EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”.

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

Located in the trendy Sant Antoni area, close to Barcelona’s famous clubs like Apolo and Plataforma, this bar has an intriguing interior, funny waiters and quality Belgian beers and specialities at a great price. It’s the ideal place to watch football with friends while pouring your own beers to avoid queueing!

MONDAY´S 5 BEERS €5

Parallel 104 Bj 2, 08015 Tel. 93 222 9801

KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks. With great vibes and great music, bring this ad and you’ll get 15% off a gin and tonic. Castella 1 | Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 Tues-Thurs 6pm-2.30am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 6pm-2.30am, Mon closed facebook.com/kaizenafterwork | info@kaizenafterwork.com

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FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

MALPASO4EIXAMPLE

CAFÉ MENSSANA4 CIUTAT VELLA

This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend.

At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere. Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

TAP DE SURO4 EIXAMPLE Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu.

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm Sun closed www.tapdesuro.com

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Doctors Barcelona is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to providing a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat the most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30-minute arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All doctors are specialists and, using their services, the best hospitals are available.

M. 689 327 144 info@doctorsbarcelona.com www.doctorsbarcelona.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DErMATology The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offers specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders. Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

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Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, german, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan. Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Platinum Provider

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available. Dr. Boj also lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, Ny, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care. Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Kaoni Therapies MASSAgE your oasis in the city. Abhyanga-yoga is an Ayurvedic therapy based on body awareness. It acts at the level of the deepest muscles with a sequence of movements and energetic touches combined with a variety of passive stretching and yoga postures. Warm oil and babaçu powder used in this massage provide both an exfoliation and skin nutrition. Exclusive treatment. A pleasant, restorative and rejuvenating experience.

Dentistsalut - DENTIST For 15 years Dentisalut has offered the latest in dental care, with up-to-date techniques, materials and technology. Two strategically situated clinics and a team of highly trained dentists directed by Dr. Juan Carlos Torres, an expert in implants and oral surgery. Quality treatments at reasonable price and emergency dental care at weekends. English, French, Catalan and Spanish spoken. Dentisalut Sants T. 93 315 8557 / M. 619 064 753 Creu Coberta 54 Metro: Hostafrancs (L1) y Plaza España (L3) Dentisalut Nou Barris Pl. Garrigó 18 Metro: Fabra y Puig (L1) y Virrey Amat (L5) T. 93 408 5197 / M. 647 789 390 Emergencies: 639 868 374 www.dentisalut.com www.facebook.com/Dentisalut/

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20% OFF YOUR 1ST SESSION FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

Saragossa 39, local. T. 93 009 0367 Mon-Fri. 11am-10pm info@kaoni.es www.kaoni.es

The Vital Touch - MASSAgE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

9/26/16 3:17 PM

Symmetry Pilates- PILATES

Tatiane Canário

Premium Pilates - NoT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage. Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

Jessica Boston CogNITIVE HyPNoTHErAPIST & COACH Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca www.jessicaboston.com hello@jessicaboston.com

NEST - NETWorK oF ENglISH SPEAKINg THErAPISTS

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, german, Italian and greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestía - PSyCHoTHErAPy Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, german, Portuguese, greek, Polish, Swedish, russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

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- PILATES

Pilates and muscle activation in a beautiful, fully equipped studio in gracia, run by Pilates professionals with more than 15 years of experience. Classes available for individuals and pairs, first class is free. Bring this ad and receive a 10% discount when you sign up for the first 3 months. T. 93 217 3025 info@tatianecanario.com

Bikram Yoga - HoT yogA

READER OFFER

Bikram yoga have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, they offer international staff and more than 18 years’ experience. reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es

YogaconGracia - yogA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. ycg has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com

Uby Muñoz, Lic.Ac. - ACUPUNCTUrE Trained in England, Uby has experience successfully treating a wide range of health problems including: allergies, arthritis, chronic pain, migraines, headaches, IBS, infertility, IVF, insomnia, back pain, menopause, stress and anxiety. Uby specialises in natural fertility treatments and women’s health. Casp 80, 1-3, 08010 M. 622 720 499 ubybcnwellwoman.com www.bcnwellwoman.com

KINEMEZ - PHySIoTHErAPy CENTrE KineMez offers personalised physical therapy in gràcia/Sant gervasi. They specialise in postural reeducation using the Mézières method, for the treatment of sciatica, discal herniation, scoliosis, back pain, temporomandibular disorders, patellofemoral pain, womens health and sports injuries. T. 93 201 6513 Guillem Tell 40 Entlo.2ª kinemez@kinemez.com www.kinemez.com

Jonathan Hooker - PSyCHoTHErAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Oliver Dawson - BorN CHrIoPrACTIC oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today. Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

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To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219 joseramon@fuentefradera.com www.fuentefradera.com

Spain accounting-

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

BarCeloNa oFFiCe SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaoffice.com www.barcelonaoffice.com

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FREN

Mrs.Q Design Studio -

Step Up With V -

GRAPHIC DESIGN

GRAPHIC DESIGN INVITATION DESIGN BRANDING | ADVERTSING POSTERS | FLYERS | MENUS

CAREER COACHING

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as ﬂyers, posters and brochures. They specialise in bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy. com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

Coaching services for global-minded professionals who want to take their career (and life!) to the next level. Find clarity, purpose and focus, and create your ideal work-life balance. Develop confidence, leverage your strengths and unique value proposition, communicate effectively and increase your opportunities! First consultation free of charge.

CALL FOR A FREE CONSULATAION

Garment Printing - BUSINESS

ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES

Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as ﬂyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today. Garment Printing

Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. T. 90 010 2527 www.ibexinsure.com

Natacha elmir - PHOTOGRAPHER Professional photographer based in Barcelona offering a range of shoots—vacation, weddings, portraits, babies and events. Natacha also offers a four-hour introductory course to photography, which includes a mini shoot and four artistic shots of you and your loved ones.

C/ Roger De Flor, 289 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

M. 600 803 661 natachaelmir@gmail.com www.natachaelmir.com

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS

la Web Del Born - WEB DESIGN STUDIO

Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Complete internet services for companies and individuals. Put your business online with a wonderful website and professional emails. They build your social profiles, optimise your web pages for Google and make professional blogs to be managed directly by you.

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeﬂyers.com www.fabricadeﬂyers.com

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M. 619 022 676 stepupwithv@gmail.com www.stepupwithv.com

CALL FOR A FREE CONSULATAION

637 005 656 hola@lawebdelborn.com www.lawebdelborn.com

Home orden Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. we can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs. FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

M. 625 204 328 stephanie@homeorden.com

Mac in Barcelona -

CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. with our latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, we provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, including wimbledon, Euro ‘16 and the Rio Olympics. Phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

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la Dolce Vita -

Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

ITALIAN FASHION

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. you can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

Ronda de Sant Pere 54 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Arc de Triomf (L1) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es

Nie Barcelona

Corsa international

- BUSINESS

- DRIVING SCHOOL NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

international@autoescuelacorsa.com

www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

act Habitat - ARCHITECTS we can help… Create your perfect living or work space Get the most out of your investment Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment Deal with paperwork and permits Manage the building works and costs Choose the best firm for the job Coordinate with the neighbours Get in touch, we’d love to hear from you! Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

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BCN l.i.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN SAM SAYS... COMMUNICATE YOUR COMPANY’S VALUE Dear Sam, I opened my chiropractic business in Barcelona six months ago and it has been going well, albeit slow. I’d love to pick things up and, ultimately, increase clients and revenue. I’m struggling with how to get the word out there, how to market myself and how to turn connections into clients. I have active Facebook and Twitter accounts and I’ve taken out a few ads in print and online, yet I haven’t seen the growth that I would like. If you have any advice on what a small business owner can do to grow their company, I’d appreciate all the tips you can spare. Thanks so much, The Business Novice Hi Business Novice,

BARCELONA BASED INSIDE SALES MANAGER FOR GERMAN / UK MARKET Are you a native German speaker fluent in English? Are you creative and passionate about digital product sales? Do you want to grow with aninnovative, up-and-coming company? You may be just who we’re looking for. Email your CV to: c.galle@cg-partners.de

I’m going to dive right into this and refer you to someone else whose advice I greatly respect and have used to grow my own company. There’s a fabulous book by Alex Goldfayn called The Growth Revenue Habit (2015), whose cardinal rule for growing your company is: “Communicate your value to those who can buy it.” It sounds easy, yet it’s something that the majority of us don’t do enough. One of the biggest mistakes that small business owners make is to think that mediums like Facebook, Twitter, Instagram etc., will attract paying clients. Social media platforms are good for letting people know what you’re up to but unless you’re sharing engaging content, it may not convert into revenue. The best way to grow your business is to actively communicate to people not what you do, but why they should come and see you. Your value isn’t the product you sell and the adjustments you give as a chiropractor; your value is that you enhance people’s lives by giving them increased mobility and the opportunity to live pain free. Goldfayn says there’s no better way to communicate that value than through your existing customers—let your clients tell your story (more on that below). Something else that is key to growing your company is to build relationships through your networks. Your network is anyone you come into contact with on a regular basis. It could be your dentist, parents at school, family, friends, your tennis coach or the barista at your neighbourhood coffee shop. We often forget how many people we know and how many people those people know. So, what does all this look like in tangible terms? 1. Ask your clients for a testimonial. Some of us shy away from this, yet if you’re providing a wonderful service for people they’ll be more than happy to share their thoughts. This will also give you some insight into your clients’ preferences. 2. Let the testimonials tell your story. Put their testimonials in your emails, newsletters, on your website and most of all use their words in day-to-day conversation when talking to people. 3. Keep in touch with your network on a daily basis. Take five minutes each day to speak to one person. Whether it’s face-to-face, on the phone, in an email or text message, reach out to someone and let him/her know what you’re up to. 4. Maintain contact with your clients. Make sure your clients are hearing from you regularly. It doesn’t have to be invasive, just keep in contact, be it through a weekly or bi-monthly newsletter, email updates or a systematic check-in every few weeks. Nourish those relationships and stay connected. 5. Get these two books. In addition to The Growth Revenue Habit, read the GoGiver (2007) by Bob Burg. This is a fictional story with incredible tips and insights on how to grow your business and become successful. His main message is to come from a position of serving others.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

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INTERVIEW

Florian Weimart

carpentry. In rural areas, where there aren’t many businesses, communities come together to work the land. The money raised from these efforts funds the local school. In the end, the goal is to make these communities sustainable without outside assistance. The sixth edition of the Sierra Leone marathon will be held in May 2017. Besides getting a glimpse of how life is for people there, participants also get to have some fun. The whole group gathers every night at a bar run by Street Child Commercial, with all profits going to Street Child projects. So, the more beer you drink, the more you’re giving to the cause. We ask people to take this very seriously—the night before the marathon is no exception! Another highlight of the trip is visiting the stunning beaches of Sierra Leone. There’s still no development there, it’s spectacular. Having lived in various cities, I know how important it is to maintain one’s hobbies. To make friends and establish a life from scratch, I have relied on my love of surfing. During university, I did an internship in California with the Surfrider Foundation. From day one, I was part of a community that made me feel at home. No one surfs in Boston, but within a 40-minute drive to the north or south, I found more people who liked surfing who I could relate to. It has been the same in Barcelona—although it’s a bit harder to surf on these glassy, Mediterranean waters, if you follow the forecast and go to the beach when it’s rainy and windy, you can catch a few good waves and maybe even makesome connections.

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

I’m from Franconia in northern Bavaria, which is not at all like the Bavaria of popular cliché. The region has wooded hills with many hiking trails, and is probably best known for having the highest density of beer breweries in the world. I studied Sports Economics at university, which was a typical business administration course with a focus on sport and law. It’s the kind of degree that would qualify you to run a football club or manage a company directly related to sport. I could have worked somewhere like Adidas or Puma, which are both based in Nuremberg, but I chose to pursue business without specialising in sport. In 2005, I moved to Boston to work for Vistaprint. It was an enjoyable two-year experience. The company continued to grow during that time and needed a central location for their European marketing office, which ended up being in Barcelona. I moved here—knowing very little about the city—to help with the expansion. That was 10 years ago. In 2012, Vistaprint were contacted by Street Child and asked to support a new initiative—a fundraising marathon in Sierra Leone. The initiative is not just about running a marathon in a developing country, but encouraging people to travel to a country like Sierra Leone and spend a week visiting Street Child’s projects, getting to know the staff, seeing the country with their own eyes and meeting its people. The marathon itself is actually more like a street fair than a serious run, with music stations and kids cheering you on as you make your way through the villages. Vistaprint immediately jumped at the opportunity, and that’s how I became involved in the first trip, and almost every one since. Nearly everyone who commits to running the Sierra Leone marathon returns home a changed person. Many continue to support Street Child and volunteer at smaller events as well as the annual trip. After my first visit, I actually started working for Street Child’s ambassador programme, for people who want to be involved in project work on the ground. I spent four months in Sierra Leone in 2014, which allowed me to experience everyday life there. It was completely different from anything I had ever known. There was no running water or electricity, for example— trust me, having to haul your own water out of a well and carry it home quickly teaches you how to reduce consumption. In terms of crime, however, you are probably safer in Sierra Leone than in the majority of first world countries, although many have drastically different assumptions. During that time, I was involved with Street Child Commercial— their innovative in-country fundraising arm. By opening bars and cafeterias around the country, Street Child raises funds for their programmes, which support local families and education. Countrywide, the biggest programme is the ‘Family Business Scheme’. This helps families run and maintain simple businesses, giving them training, a savings plan and perhaps a bit of money or credit, in order to become financially stable. It’s about establishing businesses that meet the community’s needs, so some revolve around cooking, while others might focus on tailoring or

Photo by Yan Pekar

DEVELOPMENT AND MARKETING MANAGER AT STREET CHILD, GERMANY, 39 BY RACHEL HUFFMAN

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