Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 241 by Barcelona Metropolitan

FEBRUARY 2017 Nยบ 241

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36 hours IN MADRID

A Changing COMMUNITY

A night at

THE OPERA

5 places for A CAFFEINE SHOT

The regeneration of Poblenou

INTERVIEW WITH

EDDIE IZZARD

PLUS! ART

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MUSIC

FASHION

NEW IN TOWN

STREETLIFE

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

TRAVEL

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 241 · FEBRUARY 2017

Regulars 06 08 10 29 34 36 49 50

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Shopping Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

Directories 41 43 44 49

Features 12 REPORT: THE GENTRIFICATION OF POBLENOU From industrial heartland to digital and creative hub.

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

18 EDDIE IZZARD Interview. 30 NIGHT AT THE OPERA The Liceu is hitting all the right notes. 33 CAFFEINE FIX Five of the best cups in town. 34 TRAVEL We head to Madrid for a long weekend.

WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

Carrer del Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com

The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

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ARON PENCZU

RACHEL HUFFMAN

ANDREJ KLEMENCIC

Aron Penczu was born in Hungary. He

Originally from St. Louis, Rachel

After working as a film and classical

lived internationally while growing

Huffman studied writing, literature and

music critic, radio and TV presenter,

up, and studied English literature

publishing in Boston. In 2012, she moved

foreign correspondent, agency and

at Cambridge. In 2015, he moved

to Barcelona to teach English, travel and

newspaper journalist and editor in Europe and the US, Andrej Klemencic

to Barcelona to take a course in

write. Travel has always been a part of

documentary filmmaking. He stayed on

her life, from trekking around the US for

moved to Spain where he developed a

in the city to write and make short films,

gymnastics to gallivanting around Europe

group of programmes, including physical

but moved back to London last autumn,

when she studied abroad. Barcelona has

coaching and focused message. He finds

where he longs for Barcelona’s clear

proven to be an inspiration. She sees a

the colours and shapes of Barcelona to be

skies and sunny winters. He hopes to keep

future for herself here, writing for local

an enticing backdrop for professional and

coming back to the city for visits, as well

blogs and publications, and continuing to

private life and, as many of its residents,

as work, however.

explore the city and beyond.

looks forward to constant discoveries.

METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Assistant Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistant Jairo Rieder Editorial Assistants Sally Hargrave, Priyankaa Joshi Design Assistant Annabel Warley Contributors Rosie Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Andrej Klemencic, Sam Mednick, Aron Penczu, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographers Annabel Warley, Gabriela Quinche Illustrator Ben Rowdon Cover photo Gabriela Quinche

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IN THE CITY

new in town AND UNWIND... cowshed spa. plaça del duc de medinaceli 4

WWW.SOHOHOUSEBARCELONA.COM Not everything at the new Soho House Barcelona is members only. Down in the basement is the Cowshed spa, a city hideaway that combines classic white tiles—think modernista pharmacy—with warmer features, like the wooden floor and cabinets, and gentle lighting. A big table and mismatched upholstered chairs complete that home-from-home feel that Soho House pulls off so effortlessly. For your mani-pedi, you get to sink back into a plush armchair, put some headphones on and tune into a retro-looking TV. The four treatment rooms offer massages, body treatments, facials and reflexology, all using natural Cowshed products. And, when you’re done, it’s time to relax on one of the pretty loungers by the immaculate white-tiled indoor pool. Forget express treatments—this is a place to spoil yourself and linger a while.

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POCKET IT JOURNEY FOR THE SENSES dine in dark. carme 33. THE44.XYZ/EN This exciting new eatery in the heart of the Raval has everything you’d expect from a great restaurant: good service, delicious food and a friendly atmosphere, but there’s a twist. You’ll be eating in complete darkness. After a welcome glass of cava and a runthrough of the rules, diners are asked to lock away their phones and other light sources before being guided by waiters wearing night vision goggles into the pitch black dining room. Adding to the air of mystery, guests can choose from one of the ‘surprise’ seasonal menus: red (meat), blue (fish) and green (vegetarian), which include four courses, each paired with a carefully selected wine. According to manager Renzo, without the dominant sense of vision, diners are forced to focus on the other senses and pay more attention to smell, texture, taste and sound. When the meal is over, you will be led back into the sleek bar area but the fun doesn’t end there. You can see if you guessed the dishes correctly before finding out what you actually ate from your waiter. End the night with a chupito and leave your thoughts on the chalkboard wall. A unique dining experience at every turn.

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(pockets). provença 322. WWW.POCKETSBCN.COM What do you get when you cross freshly baked, artisanal bread with traditional Spanish dishes? You’ll have to head to (Pockets) to get the full experience. The small but varied sandwich menu at this new opening is updated regularly to reflect the changing of the seasons, and features fillings made from classic Spanish dishes such as tender, Iberian beef stew cooked in red wine and escalivada (smoky grilled vegetables) with blue cheese for vegetarians. According to manager Nacho Bueno, many of the fillings available are slow-cooked “to give customers a new taste of fast food”. And while their sandwiches are undoubtedly the stars of the show, (Pockets) also offers a range of tasty tapas and sides, as well as a selection of local craft beers to wash it all down.

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RULE BRITANNIA muY British. calaF 31. WWW.MUYBRITISH.COM Husband and wife team Martin Dobson and Esther Izquierdo moved to Barcelona 25 years ago. Ever since, they have been working tirelessly to establish and build their wholesale brand Muy British—a play on words based on their concept to bring quality British products to Spain. Their latest venture is a quirky, yet chic retail shop tucked away in the upmarket district of SarriàSant Gervasi. Muy British has quickly become popular with the anglophiles of Barcelona. However, Martin explained that the shop is “not necessarily for British people, but for people who love British things”. The couple handpick all of their items, from fine bone china mugs and teapots, to fairy lights and cushions, with the focus on quality and style. Customers can even rent life-sized cardboard cutouts of British icons like Mr. Bean and the Queen for parties.

FIVE THINGS

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RUNNING ROUTES

The cooler months are perfect for city running, and Barcelona has some great locations whether you’re a seasoned runner or just getting started.

Parc de la Ciutadella One of Barcelona’s only runner-friendly green spaces, Parc de la Ciutadella provides a refreshing backdrop for joggers and sprinters alike. The park is relatively �lat, but monuments like the Arc de Triomf might get a little tiresome if you’re going for multiple miles.

Carretera de les Aigües This nine-kilometre track can be found at the foot of the Parc Natural de la Serra de Collserola. Astounding views over the city and a �lat, traf�ic light-free road make this a hotspot for running groups, walkers and cyclists.

Passeig Marítim With unending views of the balmy Mediterranean sea and a �lat, pedestrianised pathway, this promenade is the ultimate Barcelona running route, and the perfect location if you fancy a post-run dip. Get there early to beat the crowds!

Montjuïc One for more conditioned runners, this seven-kilometre stretch begins in Plaça d’Espanya and climbs over 180 metres up the hill of Montjuïc. Those who are willing to take on the challenge are rewarded with beautiful aerial views across the city, from the sea up to the mountains. Avinguda Diagonal While not the most scenic of routes, Avinguda Diagonal is one of the longest streets in Barcelona, spanning around 11 kilometres from end to end. Its central location and wide pavements make it a good spot for runners looking to get their workout in quickly, with minimal fuss.

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IN THE CITY

MET PEOPLE What’s your favourite coffee shop?

streetlife

PASSATGE DE MARIMON A spot to enjoy the finer things in life, this Sarrià street has a decidedly sophisticated feel, with establishments to help you shop and dine in style.

ANDREA Age 33 From Italy Profession Web designer El Magnífico. They sell many different types of coffee from all over the world.

CÉLERI

Situated beneath one of Tribu Woki’s organic markets, Céleri brings a different concept to the street. Its menu revolves around eight seasonal and locally-sourced vegetables at a time, each presented in three dishes: one vegan, one vegetarian and one with animal protein. The result is beetroot gazpacho, cauliflower puree with a 62° egg and smoked oil, eggplant confit with white Catalan sausage and more. Chef Xavier Pellicer’s ability to elevate the humble vegetable to pride of place on the plate earned the restaurant its first Michelin star earlier this year. www.tribuwoki.com

IRENE Age 28 From Barcelona Profession Journalist Gorilla Bar in Gràcia. They have great interior design, big tables, nice people. In the evenings the shop turns into a bar and they put on events and live music.

ALFONS & DAMIÁN

BRIAN Age 39 From Barcelona Profession Programmer Bicioci, in Gràcia. It’s run by Italians that are incredibly friendly and the coffee is just delicious.

This multi-concept space opened its doors in September 2015, after interior designers Alfons Tost and Damián Sanchez joined forces to spruce up Barcelona’s design scene. The meticulously planned space combines a store, gallery and interior design studio to make homestyling a singular experience. Here you’ll find pieces handcrafted by small manufacturers, from limited edition china to plush throws and quirky side tables, to provide all the creative inspiration you need. alfonsdamian.com

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RESTAURANT COURE

Perhaps because they missed out on a Michelin star in 2008, Coure is described by local food enthusiasts as one of Barcelona’s best kept fine dining secrets. Chef Albert Ventura’s creative Catalan cooking and engaging manner, along with the restaurant’s reasonable prices, have customers coming back time and time again. “I always bring my foodie friends here!” said Sarrià local Paula. “The different tastes and textures leave me speechless every time.” Whether you enjoy tapas at the sleek copper bar or indulge in the seasonal tasting menu in the intimate dining room downstairs, you’re sure to go home happy. www.restaurantcoure.es

WHERE THE BEST CRAFT BEER AND GREAT FOOD COME TOGETHER... DON’T MISS OUT! HOURS

Monday to Thursday 12pm-12am Friday and Saturday 12pm-2am Closed Sunday

CONTACT

Diputació 223, 08011, Barcelona Reservations T. 93 408 91 62

CASA JORDI

With a reputation dating back to 1968, this modest restaurant honours the traditional cuisine of the region. Casa Jordi’s chefs can sometimes be found searching for fresh produce at La Boqueria to put together their creative set menus, and what they can’t find there, they get from local farmers. Ignacio, 42, from Barcelona, described the place as “Barcelona’s hidden gem” and made sure to point out that it has over 40 different types of gin to sip on throughout your meal. casajordi.es

HISOP

Receiving a Michelin star in 2010, Hisop is notorious for its unusual menu of contemporary Catalan cuisine and remarkable flavour fusions. The restaurant’s central philosophy keeps in tune with the seasons—there are four menus a year, with weekly alterations. Its minimalist interior allows you to savour your meal without distraction. www.hisop.com

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IN THE CITY

A PLACE OF MY OWN

OBSESSED WITH FLEA MARKETS, EBAY AND IKEA HACKS, AMY FARRINGTON BRINGS HER unIque style to the large Poble-sec aPartment she shares wIth her Partner

my Farrington and her partner Andy Coles viewed this spacious third-floor apartment on a whim one sunny morning in March last year. “We weren’t necessarily looking to move at the time, but we instantly fell in love with the place,” explained Amy. Coming from Andy’s small rented flat in Sant Antoni with its exposed beams and dark rooms, the bright and airy Poble-sec apartment was refreshing. With plenty of natural light flooding in through the

floor-to-ceiling windows in the living room and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya visible from the three balconies, it’s not hard to see why they instantly fell for it. The British couple met in London while Amy was working as a PR manager and Andy for an American IT firm. In 2014, Andy’s job brought him back to Barcelona, where he had previously lived for four years, forcing the couple into a long-distance relationship for a year. During this time, Amy visited Barcelona as much as she could, falling in love with the city more and more each time. Although it would have been more sensible for Andy to eventually move back to England, Amy was ready for a change. “I was growing tired of London, and Barcelona gave me the zest for city life again,” she said. In February 2015, she joined Andy here. Recently renovated, the three-bedroom apartment they now share was completely empty when the couple moved in, allowing Amy to unleash her passion for interior design and put her unique stamp on the space. Having furnished all her previous flats in London, Amy had a large amount of furniture in storage. When she discovered a family friend was driving to Spain with an empty van to pick up a vintage car, she jumped at the opportunity to have everything brought over. As a result, 75 percent of the furniture in the flat is from back home. Once everything was out of boxes, it took

just a month to put it all together. “I saw it as my project,” said Amy. “Andy would come home from work every day and find I’d totally rearranged the furniture again!” she laughed. When it comes to her interior design style, Amy likes to draw inspiration from a variety of sources. The result is an eclectic mix of renovated furniture, intriguing artwork and transformed Ikea pieces that slot together perfectly. Despite a mix of different design styles, Amy achieves a sense of continuity through the colour scheme, which combines complementary shades of grey, white, blue and green.

“I don’t like everything to be polished and new. It doesn’t matter where things have come from as long as they look good” In the living room, standout pieces include two framed Hermès scarves, one of which is artfully perched on top of an ‘Ikea hack’ chest of drawers, while the other (which Andy bought Amy as a present) hangs above the TV. “I’m a huge advocate of the Ikea hack,” said Amy. By painting some plain Ikea drawers a deep ash grey and replacing the handles with glass knobs, she has managed to elevate them from simply functional to a statement piece

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If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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Repurposed furniture and pops of colour make the apartment’s design stand out

with charm and personality. A plethora of secondhand pieces have been transformed in a similar way, including an elegant grey dresser decorated with bottle green soda syphons and ornate cobalt blue candle holders. It’s these little quirks that give the apartment its character. The rest of the space is no less impressive. In the long, echoing corridor you’ll find a series of black and white prints by American fashion photographer Richard Avedon, which Amy herself scanned, printed and framed. Take a right into one of the bedrooms and there’s another one of Amy’s unique touches: rustic wooden crates used as bedside tables, one of which she salvaged from the bin. “It’s common for people here to repurpose items they find on the street, which I love,” she exclaimed. “I don’t like everything to be polished and new. It doesn’t matter where things have come from as long as they look good.” Taking in the apartment as a whole, there is no denying Amy’s sophisticated eye for design. All of the carefully selected pieces, from the renovated cupboard that stands proudly in the hallway, down to the colourful cushions scattered on the sofa, come together in perfect harmony.

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WHERE NEW MEETS OLD

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REPORT

AS POBLENOU ENJOYS A SURGE IN POPULARITY, SOME LOCALS WORRY THE NEIGHBOURHOOD IS LOSING ITS HISTORY AND CHARM BY ARON PENCZU PHOTOS BY GABRIELA QUINCHE

rom industrial powerhouse to creative zone and technological hub, Poblenou has probably seen more changes than any other Barcelona barrio in the last 25 years. In the 19th century, ‘the Catalan Manchester’ was home to the largest concentration of industries in Catalunya. Fitful deindustrialisation in the 20th century tapered into decades of relative neglect but, like much of Barcelona, Poblenou was reshaped in the lead-up to the Olympics, its regeneration owing much to an influx of creatives, as well as the 22@ urbanisation project and Barcelona’s natural expansion. Today, its proximity to the beach and insulation from touristic tides have made it one of the city’s preferred neighbourhoods for international residents looking to settle here. The barrio’s origins in marshy wetland are recorded by street names such as Joncar (reedy) and Llacuna (lagoon). From the 12th century it was used as pasturage for Barcelona-bound livestock and, for some 600 years, it saw exclusively agrarian use. Manufacturing arrived in the form of modest outfits, which benefited from cheap real estate and the abundance of water, plying trades such as bleaching, printing and dyeing. By 1897, when Poblenou—together with the rest of the Sant Martí district—was formally incorporated into Barcelona, the area had become an industrial powerhouse, home to increasingly mechanised, largescale mills and factories producing textiles, fertilisers and metals. Working hours in these mills and factories were long, wages low and conditions poor. Cramped, unhygienic living quarters— including shantytowns periodically laid to waste by floods—made the neighbourhood vulnerable to infectious disease, and cholera and typhus epidemics continued well into the 20th century. The poor living conditions fuelled Poblenou’s anarchist tendencies and high unionisation rate, coming to a head in the Setmana Tràgica of 1909, when churches and residences of the wealthy were torched. Left-wing agitation preceded the Spanish Civil War and, in the revolution of 1936, much of the clergy and bourgeoisie were put to flight—some summarily executed— and factories were collectivised to be run by worker councils.

The new colonisers— designers, architects, people working in sound and film— are now coming for the affordable, rehabilitated warehouses with light and air, and they’re more likely to work digitally

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10 PLACES TO VISIT IN POBLENOU

Long working hours were offset by better pay and the communal model produced some remarkable successes, owing to innovative methods and modernised machinery. Over time, however, shortages and war imperatives forced many inessential industries to shut down. Though its importance to the war industry made Poblenou a frequent target for Nationalist bombs, the real disaster was Loyalist defeat. Franco eradicated the radical left, together with any companies of a strong political character, and thousands were executed or fled. He also reversed many of the improvements in conditions that had occurred under collectivisation. Political repression and shortages characterised the early years of his reign and, in the subsequent decades, economic factors gradually expelled the old industries. They left behind closedoff streets and increasingly dilapidated iron-and-concrete colossi. Traditionally encompassing most of Sant Martí, Poblenou was greatly reduced in size in the 2006 revision of Barcelona’s administrative districts. (Each of its four neighbouring barrios still have Poblenou in their names.) Although elderly locals still speak of ‘going to Barcelona’, the extension of metro line 4 in 1977 brought it firmly into the city. Its place in this newly outward-facing city was also affirmed by the pre-Olympics remodelling of the seafront and the completion of Avinguda Diagonal in 1996. Both projects required old factories to be torn down. Poblenou’s evolving identity as a centre of digital technology and innovation owes much to 22@. The project was initiated in 2000, by the Ajuntament, with the intention of transforming 200 hectares of industrial flooring into an ‘innovation district’. Inspired by Silicon Valley, 22@ hoped to create a cross-hatching of highly skilled companies collaborating with nearby universities and incubators. As well as clearing up to 70 percent of Poblenou’s disused industrial land, the project has created parks, subsidised housing, rebuilt much-needed infrastructure and inspired dozens of copycat projects. It was stalled somewhat by the 2008 crisis, but in the past two years the constant construction-work heralding 22@ has recommenced. For Sergi Bueno Navarro, a 41-year-old native of the barrio, 22@ has brought new green spaces, street lights, wider roads and other improvements to the neighbourhood quality of life, however it’s also meant the loss of heritage. “A thousand corners, a thousand chimneys we’ve known since we were children have disappeared,” he said. Some residents were moved from the homes they were born in to make way for the area’s urban renewal. The artistic profile of Poblenou’s more creative residents has changed too.

LA PLATAFORMA – part gallery, part studio, and headquarters of the Urban District project. Look out for its open nights and other events if you want to meet local creatives. Pujades 99. Mon 11am–3pm, Tues-Fri 10am–2pm and 4pm–8pm.

CEMENTERIO DE POBLENOU – rebuilt after Napoleon destroyed it in the early 19th century, this is a small museum of funeral art. Jaume Barba’s Kiss of Death sculpture is worth the visit alone. Main entrance on Av. Icària. 8am–6pm daily.

SKYE COFFEE CO – one of Barcelona’s best cups of coffee is sold from a classic 1972 Citroën HY parked in an airy former warehouse. A model Poblenou experience. Pamplona 88. Mon-Fri 9am–5pm.

LA SUPERILLA – a unique experiment pre-empting the Eixample superblocks; an ‘island’ in a city ruled by cars. Traffic is restricted and pedestrians are king, but local opinion is divided about the project’s merits. Intersection of Badajoz, Pallars, Llacuna and Tànger.

ORXATERIA EL TIO CHE – a classic spot for sampling the original (Spanish) horchata, made from ground tigernut. It’s been served here for over 100 years. Rambla del Poblenou 44–46. Openings vary, but roughly 10am–10pm.

AUGARIBAY – offers brilliant lunch menus and a wide range of vegetarian and vegan fare at reasonable prices. Taulat 95. Mon-Sun 1pm–4pm, Thurs-Sat 8.30pm–11.30pm.

HANGAR – housed in the Can Ricart complex (once an important textile factory), this centre for visual art research and production offers various residencies and grants. Emilia Coranty 16. Open Thursdays to meet and mingle.

MONOPOL BAR – once a members-only, sports club-bar, now a cosy tapas bar with great food and a roof terrace. Lunch is €7.50, cash only. Rambla del Poblenou 74. Sun-Thurs 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am–1am.

LA FORQUILLA – perhaps Poblenou’s best haute cuisine restaurant, offering Michelin star-grade presentation and quality alike. The remarkably unassuming chef-owner is key to its charm. Pere IV 210. Tues-Sat 1.30pm–3pm and 8.30pm–10pm.

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LA CERVECITA NUESTRA DE CADA DÍA – a kind of beer sanctuary—both brewery and bar—serving bottles as well as beers on tap. The Catalan IPAs are memorable. Llull 184. Sun 5.30pm-9.30pm, MonTues 5.30pm-10.30pm, Wed-Sat 11.30am–2pm and 5.30pm–10.30pm.

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Bueno Navarro describes two broad phases of artistic regeneration. The first was characterised by analogue arts, like painting and sculpture, and the opportunistic use of abandoned spaces, where artists often set up studios for free. In the last 10 years, projects such as 22@ have eliminated these spaces and sent these artists further into the suburbs. The new colonisers—designers, architects, people working in sound and film—are now coming for the affordable, rehabilitated warehouses with light and air, and they’re more likely to work digitally. The proliferation of coworking spaces is the most visible sign of this change. Bueno Navarro runs Niu, a bar and artistic space that typifies some of the tendencies of the new Poblenou. As well as exhibiting visual art and hosting an unorthodox programme of music and film-related events, Bueno Navarro provides inexpensive office space for up to 10 audiovisual artists. It is in spaces like Niu that Poblenou Urban District, an association of creative enterprises, organises its events. Its recent cross-Poblenou open night comprised a variety of events including exhibitions, concerts, workshops, multimedia installations and performance art. Lapin, a French illustrator and sketch artist who has lived in Poblenou for a decade, said Urban District is one of the things which sets the neighbourhood apart, helping it foster a community of creatives of all stripes.

The search for authenticity in Poblenou is precisely one of the factors diluting it. “I’m a bit afraid it will become hipster in a very short time,” said Lapin It’s partly initiatives such as this which are attracting a newly affluent and international crowd to Poblenou. Tom Garner, a 35-yearold documentary-maker and teacher, who purchased a flat there in mid–2016, spoke of three key reasons for his move: the quality of its beaches, which he considers “the nicest in Barcelona, much quieter and cleaner than Barceloneta’s”; the fact that it's well-connected, close to the city centre and accessible by bike; and its genuine, neighbourhood air that central Barcelona lacks. Garner’s frustrations with the “tourist village” echo those of many after a couple years of living in the city centre, and Poblenou’s authenticity seems to be a key attraction for prospective residents. As recent arrivals, Garner and his partner are still getting to know the neighbourhood. Though they appreciate the relative quiet and the businesses oriented towards locals, Garner says they’ve found it less accessible than they expected. That Poblenou’s niche events and communities are more opaque than their equivalents in other areas of Barcelona, of course, may be precisely why they’re worth getting to know. Raul Salmeron, a 42-year-old, bilingual school teacher from Valencia, has lived in Poblenou for 10 years and has a different perspective. Every time his five-year-old daughter passes the woman sewing on their ground floor she gives her a treat, he says, and the butcher opposite their building, like the Greek couple down the street, greets her by name. Salmeron spoke of a rare sense of community that he and his family are happy to embrace. He also highlighted Poblenou’s growing cosmopolitanism: while he rarely heard English on the streets when he first arrived, this, like Poblenou itself, has “changed dramatically over the last few years”. For Salmeron the barrio’s developing internationalism is a definite advantage. Locals are more likely to see it as a mixed blessing. The search for authenticity in Poblenou, ironically, is precisely one of the

factors diluting it. “I’m a bit afraid it will become hipster in a very short time,” said Lapin, “and lose part of its spirit.” Foreign speculation is a growing problem. Prices have risen dramatically, with the cost of renting up by 20 percent since 2014, one of the greatest jumps of any Barcelona barrio. In Bueno Navarro’s opinion, Poblenou is undergoing a “brutal period of gentrification”, adding that “some streets have already been reduced to restaurants and bars”. In the sense that Poblenou is the next frontier for touristification, the ongoing debate about its identity is one about Barcelona as a whole. “It’ll be really hard for Poblenou not to become a victim of its success,” Salmeron says. Has Barcelona already? The problem of how a 21st-century city should accommodate both visitors and residents alike remains unsolved. In Poblenou today this question relates above all to the construction of hotels. The two-year moratorium on tourist accommodation in zone 1 Barcelona is set to expire in the coming months and, in some areas not covered by the moratorium, construction has never ceased. But Bueno Navarro applauds the current administration in at least one respect: it seems willing to have a real conversation with all the stakeholders and neighbourhood associations involved. Today, the Rambla del Poblenou heaves with tourists in the summer, and in formerly quiet bystreets hostellers make noise in the early hours. For those who’ve lived there all their lives these changes are understandably challenging. To celebrate its seven-euro terrace lunches, or the dead-ends where street art curtains old warehouses, may be to miss the point. But Poblenou perhaps more than any other barrio offers a template for change that is conscious of history. The way it’s organised and the people it attracts also means it offers a particularly good route to beginning to understand Barcelona.

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EDDIE IZZARD THE COMEDY LEGEND TALKS TO METROPOLITAN ABOUT PERFORMING IN SPANISH, POLITICS AND THE POWER OF LOGIC BY ESTHER JONES

meet Eddie Izzard on a sunny January morning in a hotel lounge in the Raval. He has been living mostly between Barcelona and Madrid since November, performing his Force Majeure tour in which, over the course of three months, he gradually transitions from performing two minutes of the show in Spanish to doing the entire show in Spanish. Even in Barcelona’s most diverse neighbourhood Izzard cuts a striking figure, in tight jeans, high heels and bright red lipstick. Later on, he tells me about a recent episode in Barcelona where two middle-aged couples were giggling at him in the street. “I went back and stood looking at a shop window near them. They stopped giggling when they realised I was right there. Like schoolkids.” He goes on to describe the different ways he deals with hostile attitudes, finding a middle path which is neither aggressive nor victim-like. “I’m not a fighter but I stand my ground. Sometimes I’ll get my phone out and start texting or I’ll look in the direction of the person. I have a way of looking around their faces but never directly at them.” Since 2013, Izzard has taken his Force Majeure tour to 29 countries, performed it in four languages and filled venues from Wembley Stadium to Madison Square Garden. Yet, here he is explaining how he negotiates walking in the street peacefully, exercising his “right to be there”. Coming out as transgender over 30 years ago was clearly the challenge that eclipses everything. “Coming out took all my mental walls down. It’s such a hard thing to do and I had to do it all on my own. That has given me everything else, all my confidence, because that was going into a wall of shit in the streets.” The evening before we meet, Izzard has performed at the Llantiol theatre to an audience of around 100 people, mostly native English speakers delighted to see the comedy legend up close. He is over two months into his Spanish tour and performs about 50 percent of the show in Spanish. He introduces some new lines, but transitions too quickly from English and can’t remember his words. The audience doesn’t mind a bit as he nips offstage to find his iPad, stumbles good naturedly through his new lines then visibly relaxes as he moves on to more fluent territory. This is a little window into Izzard’s approach to learning Spanish. Aided by his linguist brother Marcus, Izzard is learning the script line by line, “just like a play”.

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On this bright Barcelona day, Izzard is friendly, focussed and passionate about what is close to his heart. He glides easily into his comedy routines, often treating me to some hilarious insights into his material in Spanish. While he orders his coffee fairly confidently, he is happy to admit that he can’t really speak Spanish. He delivers a line from the evening before and points out the individual words that he does understand, which are “most of the nouns and adjectives”. Does he want to be able to speak Spanish? He is optimistic that by the end of it all he will learn Spanish. He describes the experience like developing a “living dictionary” in his head which slowly drips down into his consciousness. But for now, his days are spent memorising lines. He’s sorry not to have any language-learning tips for Metropolitan readers. “People assume that I’m actually learning Spanish to this level. I try to persuade them otherwise but they don’t actually believe it even if I talk them through it.” For the German show, he recorded his entire show in English then had it translated. “It was the first time I had ever had a script of my show. We went through it, cutting out what wasn’t essential and keeping lines that really got a laugh, and it improved a lot.” It’s a relief to him when he has it all memorised and he can lean into it and perform it with the right pauses and intonation. He offers an example that got a big laugh the evening before—a long pause followed by an impeccably pronounced ni puta idea. “That pause is key and I have to hope that no one shouts out something silly.” Swearing is part of his performance and he invests time in getting it right. “Slang and swearing are two good things to get into a show because everyone says, ‘oh look, he’s one of us’.” He’s impressed by the liberal attitude to swearing in Spain and notes that even on the daytime sitcoms they say joder.

“My radical view on this is that this is our last century. This is the one. We either make the whole thing work or we forget it, because we will tear ourselves apart” Izzard is keen to know how the audience was reacting to his previous night’s show and whether I had noticed different responses from English speakers and Spanish speakers. He guesses, probably correctly, that the general “chit chat” during the Spanish part was Spanish people explaining the meaning to their English-speaking friends. He has just three weeks left to learn the remaining 50 percent of his script, but he is unfazed. He simply applies what he refers to later as his “logic” and surmises that, “If you give humans certain circumstances and say that things have to happen like this then they get it done. People just adjust.” Izzard was performing in foreign languages long before Brexit (or “Brexhate” as he calls it) became part of our lives, and he has been a vocal pro-Europe campaigner for many years. A member of the Labour Party for over 20 years, he is planning to run for Mayor of London in 2020. He rails against Brexit and the ideology behind it. “The vast majority of the electorate do not want to be going through the minutiae of political arguments. So, extremists have this beguiling way of making things simplistic. Hate these people and everything will be fine. Leave Europe and everything will be fine. Of course, it never works. It can never work because it really is that complicated.” He talks at length about the power of hatred and you know that this is something he has given a lot of thought to. “Hatred is a strong thing. As Hitler worked out, you just have to blame someone. But it never, ever, ever, in the history of humanity has worked. It is bullshit.”

So what is Izzard’s approach to politics? The same as his approach to life. “I do radical things with a moderate message,” he states. One of his most radical challenges must surely be his marathon running. In 2009, he completed 43 marathons in 47 days to raise money for Sport Relief. And, in March 2016 he raised over a million pounds for the same charity, running 27 marathons in 27 days across Africa. I am curious as to whether this man who pulls off such staggering feats ever feels doubt and fear and, if so, does he have a way to channel it. “Yes,” he answers emphatically, “that’s exactly what I do. I use logic and common sense. What I’m doing are things that are not on the list. I analyse a lot and I think whether something is a better thing to do than not do. He returns to his coming out in 1985. “I saw the logic of my sexuality. I thought that telling the truth about that and coming out was better than lying and running away.” Izzard’s mantra is that everyone should have an equal chance, and he comes back to this several times during the interview. “You have to get an entire world where everyone has a fair chance, or we’ll blow ourselves up. My radical view on this is that this is our last century. This is the one. We either make the whole thing work or we forget it, because we will tear ourselves apart.” He can sound idealistic, but though his comedy is surreal and rambling, Izzard is a thinker. The formidable logic he applies to life must surely leave him despairing of more ordinary folk. From sexuality and comedy, to politics and marathon running, his personal experiences and his views on the wider political arena are interwoven. He describes how it took him 18 years from his first gig in France to touring to audiences of 5,000 people in French. “That was a long journey but no one believed in it. I can just see these things out there. So now there are kids performing in different languages all over, particularly in Europe. That wasn’t there before and now it is there.” We return to Brexit/Trump terrain and the power of logic. “Should we head toward a world where everyone has a fair chance or not? Yes, absolutely. No one can disagree with that argument. The world has got to move forward. And if you think like that, everything just falls into place. It’s not actually that hard to work out what to do.” It’s time for Izzard to go home to work on his lines. We say our goodbyes and he heads back out into the Raval, ready once more to exercise his right to be there.

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music

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A SHIFT IN PERSPECTIVE

NATALIE IMBRUGLIA. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. FEBRUARY 25TH. A woman of many talents, Natalie Imbruglia has tried her hand at all facets of the entertainment industry. As is the case for many of Australia’s famous, Imbruglia came into the limelight when she bagged a role on the soap opera Neighbours in the early Nineties. From Ramsay Street to London, she finally hit the big time with her cover of the Ednaswap song ‘Torn’ in 1997. Last year saw the release of Imbruglia’s fourth studio album, Male (2015), an album of cover songs originally made famous by male artists such as Damien Rice, The Cure and Neil Young, that she puts her own spin on. The opening track and first single, ‘Instant Crush’ by Daft Punk, is one of the most unexpected pieces on the album. Stripping it back, Imbruglia reveals the love story hidden in the lyrics. The artist explained that each song has either touched her or helped her through various emotional processes in life. Don’t miss your chance to see Imbruglia showcase her new material at Razzmatazz this month. www.salarazzmatazz.com

IN CONCERT 11th. The Dandy Warhols Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 1st. Dancing Doors Harlem Jazz Club. Sobradiel 8.

STORMING THE STAGE BASTILLE. SANT JORDI CLUB. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. FEBRUARY 5TH. Bastille shot to fame after the release of well-known earworm ‘Pompeii’, which hit the charts with a bang back in 2013. Almost seven years on, they have finally released a second album, Wild World (2016), which has been hailed by website NME as a whole album of Pompeiis. As on Bad Blood (2013), the band have drawn inspiration from a variety of sources; this time creative catalysts include politics, sci-fi films and the Truman Capote novel In Cold Blood (1966). For those hoping for a little bit more experimentation, this album might not be the one to quench your desires. The lads clearly have their sights set on stadium-sized fame and are writing songs in accord with that goal. On a more positive note, tracks such as ‘Two Evils’ and ‘Four Walls’ are evidence of what the band is capable of. Overall the album includes some upbeat, radio-friendly tunes that will be filling the airwaves in 2017. www.santjordiclub.cat

Comtessa

11th. Helena Hauff Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

3rd. Beach Slang Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7.

13th. Skunk Anansie Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

4th. Cage the Elephant Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

16th. The Uppertones Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7.

5th. Bastille Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

17th. Boys Noize Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

6th. The Wave Pictures Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7.

18th. Floating Points Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

7th. Jacob Whiteside Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547.

21st. John Mayall Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

9th. Falcon and Firkin Hard Rock Cafe. Plaça de Catalunya 21.

23rd. Julian Maeso Marula Café. Escudellers 49.

10th. Gringo Star Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7.

24th. Miguel Campello BARTS. Paral·lel 62.

10th. KASE.O Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

25th. Natalie Imbruglia Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

10th. Antonio José Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

26th. Gotthard Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

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FINE AND DANDY THE DANDY WARHOLS. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. FEBRUARY 11TH. “A welcome return for a band who’ve never been afraid to stick two fingers in the face of adversity” was how Consequence of Sound summed up the return of The Dandy Warhols, who recently released their tenth album, Distortland (2016). Although subsequent albums have not experienced the same success as Thirteen Tales from Urban Bohemia (2000), this new album is packed full of catchy songs, proving that the Oregon natives have some stamina left, over twenty years after their formation back in 1994. ‘You Are Killing Me’ is predicted to become a radio regular in the coming months, whilst ‘STYGGO’ is guaranteed to satisfy lifelong fans, providing a dose of the eclectic sound expected from The Dandy Warhols. www.sala-apolo.com

SPARKS FLY TORI SPARKS + CALAMENTO. LUZ DE GAS. MUNTANER 246. FEBRUARY 23RD. The American singer-songwriter Tori Sparks premieres her latest album La Huerta (2017) at one of Barcelona’s most iconic nightclubs this month. After making the move from Nashville, Tennessee to Barcelona in 2011, Sparks’s music has progressed from strength to strength, incorporating Spanish influences such as flamenco into her eclectic sound, which otherwise mixes rock, blues, jazz and folk. For her latest project she has once again joined forces with the Flamenco fusion trio Calamento, as well as guitarist El Rubio to produce a unique album every bit as daring as her last one. www.luzdegas.com

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art

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BONDED BY ART NICOLÁS PARIS. CAIXAFORUM. AV. FRANCESC FERRER I GUÀRDIA 6-8. FEBRUARY 10TH-MAY 7TH. An interactive exhibition comes to CaixaForum showcasing drawings, sculptures and images by Colombian artist Nicolás Paris. Through his series of works, Paris aims to remove the distance between the viewer and the artwork, and create a space for experimentation. Having been a primary school teacher in Southeast Colombia for several years before pursuing a career in art, education also plays a central role in his work. His latest exhibition will take place in a laboratory of sorts where viewers are invited to reconsider everyday phenomena to which we usually pay little attention, thus creating new forms of understanding. Following the idea that art should help people express themselves and communicate with others, Paris encourages spectators to interact with both the art and other people during their visit. obrasociallacaixa.org

EXHIBITIONS OPENINGS GALERÍA SENDA Ola Kolehmainen The Finnish photographer explores the influences behind some of Spain’s most emblematic contemporary buildings with a series of abstract prints. Opening February 2nd. Trafalgar 32.

CELEBRITY SNAPSHOTS OUTUMURO BCN RETRATS. PALAU ROBERT. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 107. UNTIL FEBRUARY 26TH. Manuel Outumuro is a self-taught fashion photographer who has photographed a range of prominent figures including actors, chefs, athletes and politicians, and whose work has appeared in numerous prestigious publications such as Vogue, Elle and La Vanguardia. He is renowned for his ability to capture the specific characteristics and emotions of his subjects by demonstrating empathy and forging a bond of sorts. “In order to find beauty, the subject must never feel they are being judged,” he says. This intimate exhibition features 80 portraits of well-known personalities, great artists and on-screen icons, all associated with the Catalan capital in some way. For the Galician-born artist, photography is much like painting, and he describes it as “a field that is open to all types of innovation and freedom”. palaurobert.gencat.cat

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FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Autogestió This exhibition, curated by Antonio Ortega, traces the genealogy of do-it-yourself artistic practices from the Sixties to the present day. Opening February 17th. Parc de Montjuïc.

LAST CHANCE MISCELANEA Conejo This intriguing exhibition examines the way in which love, or the lack thereof, can provoke people to act in certain ways. Until February 5th. Guàrdia 10. MUSEU MARÍTIM DE BARCELONA Fills de l’Oceà This photographic exhibition featuring 76 works by Javier Teniente pays homage to traditional fishing communities

around the world and highlights the harmful effects of the overexploitation of marine resources. Until February 12th. Av. de les Drassanes. GALERÍA JOAN PRATS Alfons Borrell Catalan abstract artist Alfons Borrell showcases his most recent works, inviting viewers to consider the importance of colour in his paintings. Until February 17th. Balmes 54. MUSEU D’HISTÒRIA DE CATALUNYA Fu la Spagna! To mark the 80th anniversary of the start of the Spanish Civil War, this thought-provoking exhibition examines the role of Mussolini and fascist Italy during the conflict. Until February 19th. Palau de Mar, Plaça de Pau Vila 3. BLUEPROJECT FOUNDATION Herselves Different female artists come together to investigate the role of women in contemporary society through various forms of media, including photography and paintings. Until February 26th. Princesa 57.

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COMPARE AND CONTRAST CAMINS ENCONTRATS. JOAN RABASCALL. WORKS: 1975 AND 2012. FUNDACIÓ SUÑOL. PASSEIG DE GRÀCIA 98. UNTIL MARCH 18TH. This project presents two important pieces by Barcelona-born artist and social critic Joan Rabascall: Franco Hace Deporte - Autopistas Concesionaria Española S.A (1975) and Del Big Bang a Big Brother (2012). After being forced into exile by the Franco regime in 1962, the Catalan artist moved to Paris where he developed his unique style. Through his collage technique, Rabascall seeks to expose the mechanics of image construction and denounce the mass media’s manipulation of representation. Displaying the two aforementioned pieces side by side highlights the continuity in his work. Despite some technical and stylistic differences, the aesthetics and political message ultimately remain the same. www.fundaciosunol.org

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KICKSTART 4YFN. FIRA MONTJUÏC. FEBRUARY 27TH-MARCH 1ST. With representatives from more than 200 countries and 18,000m² of exhibition space, 4YFN (an acronym of Four Years From Now), the startup business platform of Mobile World Capital Barcelona, is back for its fourth edition this month. The three-day event aims to connect startups and investors to discover, create and launch new ventures. 4YFN will host more than 600 exhibitors and there will be over 100 talks from the likes of business icons such as Michael Spiegelman, Director of Product Innovation for Growth & Acquisition at Netflix. For aspiring entrepreneurs there will also be three awards granted for the most innovative startups in three separate categories: ‘Disrupted by Mobile’, ‘Internet of Things’ and ‘Digital Media’. www.4yfn.com

DOUBLE WHAMMY FRED COOKE. THE SHAMROCK. TALLERS 72. Described by Hot Press as ‘ready to step into the premier league of Irish funnymen’, Fred Cooke is set to get sides splitting with his unique stand-up style at this month’s Guiriness event. Cooke has performed alongside such high-profile comedians as Dara Ó Briain and Des Bishop, and once even played the glockenspiel for Bon Jovi. He heads to Barcelona fresh from supporting Tommy Tiernan, who described him as having the ‘real spirit of the clown in him’. His stand-up combines wildly imaginative storytelling with his musical prowess, to create a night you are sure to remember.

ON YOUR MARK EDREAMS MITJA MARATÓ DE BARCELONA. BARCELONA CENTRE. FEBRUARY 12TH. Fitness fanatics are in for a treat this February as the city’s second largest running race, which crosses the city, passing landmarks like the Arc de Triomf and the Columbus statue, returns. The 2016 edition of the eDreams Mitja Marató de Barcelona saw a record-breaking 16,000 competitors take on the 21-kilometre course. The Kenyan runner Florence Kiplagat set a new world record for the women’s half marathon at the race in 2015, completing the course in an astounding time of 1.05.09. This year looks to be bigger and better than ever, with competitors of all ages, from all over the world taking on the scenic challenge. Registration for the run closes on February 6th, but non-runners are always welcome to show their support and soak up the atmosphere when the day comes. www.edreamsmitjabarcelona.com

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OOH LA EULÀLIA FESTES DE SANTA EULÀLIA. BARCELONA CENTRE. FEBRUARY 10TH-12TH. The city’s biggest winter-time celebration honours the copatron saint of Barcelona, Santa Eulàlia, who on February 12th in the year 303 was martyred for refusing to give up her Christian faith. The festival of Santa Eulàlia, commonly known as ‘La Laia’, is aimed mainly towards children, due to the fact that Eulàlia was just 13 years old when she was killed. With everything from street parades of giants and dragons, to traditional Catalan Sardana dancing, this three-day festival is a must for families. The celebrations include a city-wide light show, Llum Bcn, which will light up buildings all over the city. lameva.barcelona.cat/santaeulalia/santa-eulalia

ESCAPE TO VIRTUAL REALITY MOVISTAR BARCELONA 360 VIRTUAL REALITY FEST. ARTS SANTA MÒNICA. FEBRUARY 24TH-25TH. Movistar’s very own sponsorship platform, Artsy, and Arts Santa Mònica are joining forces to bring Spain’s first ever virtual reality (VR) film festival to Barcelona this month. The two-day event is set to showcase the very best short films that use virtual reality technology from all over the world, featuring an official awards section. Visitors can learn about the technical side of VR from industry experts, attend workshops about this growing sector and even enjoy an immersive experience of their own, as a number of the nominated films will be shown in a special VR cinema room. artssantamonica.gencat.cat

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A FILM ABOUT JIMI HENDRIX Foxy Cinema Club returns with a screening of this 1973 documentary about the life of the iconic American rock singer. 8pm. Foxy

MO NDAY

OUTUMURO BCN RETREATS Galician photographer Manuel Outumuro’s series of 80 portraits of well-known figures in Barcelona society. Palau Robert. Passeig

TU ESDAY

WHAT'S ON FEBRUARY 2017

Photo by Pedro Arnay

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UNIVERSOS Y OTROS PAISAJES Described as an exhibition to “lose yourself in”, Barcelona-born artist Irene Lopez León showcases her abstract paintings. Miscelanea.

MITJA MARATÓ DE BARCELONA Barcelona’s second largest race sees around 16,000 competitors take part in a 21-kilometre course winding through the city. 8.45am.

THE DANDY WARHOLS Still going strong over 20 years since they formed, the rock band perform songs from their 2016 album Distortland. 8pm. Sala BIG FUNK THEORY BAND The MEAM’s Friday Blues series continues with an evening of funk, rhythm and blues by the Barcelona-based band. 6pm. MuBLOSSOMS The indie-pop band, who came fourth in the BBC Sound Of New Music poll 2016, perform crowdpleasers like ‘Charlemagne’. 9pm.

BASTILLE The British indie band are set to bring the roof down with hits like ‘Pompeii’ and ‘Good Grief’. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

FLEADONIA The motto of this monthly market is ‘One man’s garbage is another man’s gold’, and with its vast range of vintage goods, it’s easy to see why. 11am. Filmoteca de Catalunya. Pl. de Salvador Seguí. SHIRLEY DAVIES & THE SILVERBACKS Don’t miss the award-winning soul-meets-funk band as their Black Rose on Tour comes to Barcelona. 10pm. Sala Almodobar. Grassot 36.

PALO ALTO MARKET The February edition of this popular market focuses on food, with over 10 different restaurants and chefs cooking up a storm. Pellaires 30. Until Feb 5th.

SUN DAY

LA HABITACIÓN ROJA The Spanish indie pop-rock band perform their latest album Sagrado Corazón (2016). 9.30pm. Sala Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

4 CHAMBOA The Malagueño band known for their unique ‘Flamenco Chill’ sound are back with a new album, Nuevo Ciclo (2016). 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

SAT URDAY

FRIDAY

SKETCHES OF SPAIN This exhibition reflects on Ola Kolehmainen’s photographs of contemporary Spanish buildings. Fundació Joan Miró. Parc de Montjuïc. Until March 11th

080 BARCELONA FASHION 080 Barcelona Fashion features collections from more than 30 local designers. Teatre Nacional de Catalunya. Pl. de les Arts 1. Until Feb 3rd.

FILLS DE L’OCEÀ Javier Teniente’s photographic work pays homage to traditional fishing communities who live from and for the sea. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes. Until Feb 12th. ADAMO The Italian singer performs romantic ballads such as ‘Tombe la Neige’ for one night only. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

T HURSDA Y

WED NE SDAY

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DRY RESPLENDENCE This exhibition showcases more than 30 works by Darío Villalba, a key artist from Sixties Spain. Fundació Suñol. Passeig de Gràcia 98. Until March 11th.

SAN VALENTÍN Celebrate the most romantic day of the year in style with live music, delicious food and views over the Mediterranean. 8.30pm. Café del Mar Lounge. Moll d’Espanya 5.

NICOLÁS PARIS The Colombian artist encourages viewers to interact with his sculptures, drawings and photographs. CaixaForum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Until May 7th.

SKUNK ANANSIE The British band are set to get heads banging with their unique heavy metal meets black feminist rage sound. 9.30pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

ZEHETMAIR QUARTET Ranked among the world’s finest string quartets, don’t miss the chance to hear the Zehetmair Quartet live. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

BLUES JAM SESSION End your February with an evening of smooth jazz and blues led by Hernan ‘El Chino’ Senra. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

4 YEARS FROM NOW A specialist startup event, 4YFN is back, featuring over 18,000m² of exhibition space. Fira Montjuïc. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina. Until March 1st

VAIXELLS DE JOGUINA 1870-1939 This exhibition looks at maritime culture through the medium of children’s toy boats. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes. Until March 12th.

RAY COLLINS’ HOT-CLUB This nine-person big band bring their vibrant, energetic rhythm and blues to Barcelona. 8.30pm. Sala Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

CARMEN Witness Georges Bizet’s renowned opera Carmen against the majestic backdrop of the Palau de la Música. 8pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

JOHN MAYALL With a musical career spanning over 50 years, blues legend John Mayall performs for one night only in Barcelona. 8.30pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

JOAN RABASCALL: 1975 & 2012 This comparative exhibition looks at two different works by the Catalan artist, one from 1975 and one from 2012. Fundació Suñol. Passeig de Gràcia 98. Until March 18th.

JACOB WHITESIDES With more than 20 million views on his YouTube channel, don’t miss the rising star in concert at Sala Bikini. 9.30pm. Sala Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

OUTUMURO BCN RETREATS Galician photographer Manuel Outumuro’s series of 80 portraits of well-known figures in Barcelona society. Palau Robert. Passeig de Gràcia 107. Until Feb 26th.

THE WAVE PICTURES The London rock band perform songs from their latest release, Bamboo Diner in the Rain (2016). 9pm. Sidecar Factory Club. Pl. Reial 7.

A FILM ABOUT JIMI HENDRIX Foxy Cinema Club returns with a screening of this 1973 documentary about the life of the iconic American rock singer. 8pm. Foxy Bar. Riera Alta 59.

GRANS JOIES DE LA MUSICA CLASSICA Over 40 musicians join with ballet dancers to perform classical greats by the likes of Bach and Mozart. 8pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

PHRONESIS TRIO This jazz trio perform songs from their most recent album Parallax (2016) alongside their older hits. 8pm. Sala Jamboree. Pl. Reial 17.

SPECTRAL EVIDENCE The Ballet Preljocaj company perform this eerie show, featuring music by the iconic composer Vivaldi. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. Until Feb 11th.

UNIVERSOS Y OTROS PAISAJES Described as an exhibition to “lose yourself in”, Barcelona-born artist Irene Lopez León showcases her abstract paintings. Miscelanea. Guàrdia 10. Until March 5th.

SUN GOD REPLICA The hard rock-meets-psychedelic band join forces with Spanish punk group Nave Nodriza at this weekly rock night. 9.30pm. Marula Café. Escudellers 49.

BLOSSOMS The indie-pop band, who came fourth in the BBC Sound Of New Music poll 2016, perform crowdpleasers like ‘Charlemagne’. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

18 AUTOGESTIÓ This exhibition examines the genealogy of DIY practices from the Sixties until now. Fundació Joan Miró. Parc de Montjuïc. Until May 21st.

17 FESTIVAL CARA-B This independent music festival features Spanish and Catalan artists such as 7 Notas 7 Colores, the hip-hop group from Barcelona. Fabrica Fabra i Coats. Sant Adria 20. Until Feb 18th.

A NIGHT CALLED TECHNO Italian electronic DJ Misstress Barbara is set to perform in this weekly techno series. 11.55pm. R33. La Rambla 33.

RALLY CATALUNYA HISTÒRIC Support the competitors in this two-day rally, as they race to complete the journey from Barcelona to Perpignan and back. 8.30pm. Parc del Fòrum. De la Pau 12.

NATALIE IMBRUGLIA The Australian singer, perhaps best known for her world-famous single ‘Torn’, sings songs from her latest album Male (2015). 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

360 VIRTUAL REALITY FEST Enter the world of virtual reality at this two-day festival, featuring awards for the best VR films of the moment. Arts Santa Mònica. La Rambla 7. Until Feb 25th.

TORI SPARKS + CALAMENTO The American singer performs songs from her brand new album, La Huerta (2017). 9pm. Luz de Gas. Muntaner 246. MYTHOLOGIES, GRAPHIC WORK IN THE COLLECTION OF THE MUSEUM This exhibition examines Picasso’s infatuation with mythology. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. Until March 19th.

VUELOS The dance company Aracaladanza retell the story of Leonardo da Vinci in this spectacle for children and families. 6pm. Mercat de les Flors. Lleida 59.

SANTA EULÀLIA DAY Three-days of festivities in honour of the co-patron saint of Barcelona end with a procession down Baixada de Santa Eulàlia. Barcelona city centre.

MOEDER The second volume of a trilogy beginning in 2014, this dance spectacle focuses on the figures of ‘memory and the mother’. 8pm. Mercat de les Flors. Lleida 59.

GUIRINESS Deemed by Hot Press as in “the premier league of Irish funnymen”, Fred Cooke is set to split sides. 9.30pm. The Shamrock. Tallers 72.

TOM ODELL With his debut album reaching number one in the UK, don’t miss seeing this rising star live. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

MITJA MARATÓ DE BARCELONA Barcelona’s second largest race sees around 16,000 competitors take part in a 21-kilometre course winding through the city. 8.45am. Barcelona city centre.

THE DANDY WARHOLS Still going strong over 20 years since they formed, the rock band perform songs from their 2016 album Distortland. 8pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

BIG FUNK THEORY BAND The MEAM’s Friday Blues series continues with an evening of funk, rhythm and blues by the Barcelona-based band. 6pm. Museu Europeu d’Art Modern. Barra de Ferro 5.

RETOX Head to the W Hotel for a daytime party to beat all others, featuring cocktails, live music and more. 2pm. W Barcelona. Pl. Rosa dels Vents.

DESCUBRIENDO A QUEEN Play the Game, the Queen tribute band, perform the best of Queen’s songs in a special family concert. 11am. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

CANÇÓ D’AMOR I DE GUERRA This opera performance tells a story of forbidden love during the French Revolution. 6.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ROMANESQUE PICASSO Don’t miss the last week of this popular exhibition, exploring a lesser known side of the iconic Spanish artist. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Parc de Montjuïc. Until Feb 26th.

Photo by J C Carbonne

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SHOPPING

CURL UP & get cosy

RUG €287 NANIMARQUINA Roselló 256

SCARF €31.50 NICE THINGS www.nicethingspalomas.com

CANDLES €12.95 CERABELLA www.eboke.es

THESE INDEPENDENT SHOPS AND DESIGNERS HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KEEP WARM AND SNUG THIS MONTH. JACKET €125.30 - €179 TRAIT STORE Parlament 28

MUG €25 MATÍMAÑANA www.matimanana.bigcartel.com

BOOTS €125 VIALIS Elisabets 20

SLIPPERS €90 MAHABIS www.mahabis.com

CUSHION €42.50 OGGETTO Canvis Nous 4

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Photo by Antoni Bofill

A night at THE OPERA

AFTER SOME TUMULTUOUS YEARS, THE LICEU IS BACK ON TRACK AND LOOKING TO THE FUTURE BY ANDREJ KLEMENCIC

group of giggling teenage girls runs down the small stairs in their dance costumes, while two delivery men discuss an order with the receptionist in the new and impersonal-looking administrative building of the Liceu opera house, which leans onto the original 1847 façade. A few ﬂights up, away from the neon-lit elevator and metallic, Nineties-style corridors is an office where, amidst walls of CDs, Liceu Art Director Christina Scheppelman greets us with a handshake that means business. “Our programme is about creating a balance between the productions, so we look at the season as a whole,” Scheppelman explained, referring to roughly 11 opera productions that count for around 60 performances, the vast majority of which were sold out last season. Scheppelman believes that audiences need to be exposed to new trends, yet while some

opera houses, like the Teatro Real in Madrid, have made this the centre of their repertoire, her opinion is that experimenting too far might put some people off coming. “I need people to come and see shows because I don’t receive 80 percent subsidies like other big European houses.” In fact the Liceu is one of the least subsidised houses, with roughly 45 percent of its annual income provided by public funds. The rest comes from private donations and ticket sales. Prices range from as little as €12 for the fifth balcony with little or no visibility, to almost €300 for a seat in the stalls. “This is why I look for powerful productions in which everything comes together musically, vocally and theatrically, to make a strong impact on the audience.” Asked if there is anything that makes the Barcelona audience different, Scheppelman, a veteran of several music institutions in Europe and the US, said, “Yes, their taste for voices. This city likes big voices.” Indeed, Enrico Caruso, Feodor Chaliapin, Renata Tebaldi, Joan Sutherland, Montserrat Caballé, Plácido Domingo, Mirella Freni and José Carreras are just some of the names on a long list of past Liceu performers. In recent years, the theatre has overcome

annual losses to the tune of four million euros, with the negative figures now in tens of thousands. One of the key people behind this turnaround is Roger Guasch, who has been Director of the Liceu for the past three years. “We are recuperating economic viability without causing the artistic quality to suffer. The credo of the Liceu is artistic excellence, economic sustainability and social engagement,” he emphasised. “The Liceu’s roots are in society, not in power, as is the case with many other major European opera houses. By making the opera accessible to its members, it both transforms, and is transformed by, society. Barcelona and the Liceu are inseparable notions.” The Liceu has burnt down twice in its history, most recently in 1994. The resulting renovation has dramatically increased technical capacities and increased the technical zone to 70 percent, with 30 percent of the space left for the audience. At the same time, it tries, but fails, to be reminiscent of the original house. The seats are simply too new, the acoustics are nearly perfect and the woodwork doesn’t show the age of the place. No, the Liceu is not the most charming or the most romantically authentic opera house, but

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it is one of the very few places where new and old work together in harmony, providing a seamless backdrop for performance excellence that makes the Liceu one of the top five opera houses in the world. One place in the theatre where little has changed over the last century or so is the Cercle del Liceu, a private space for benefactors and members, which displays paintings from the late 19th and early 20th century in several heavily ornamented rooms.

ON THIS SEASON Treat yourself to an evening of opera at one of the Liceu’s 2017 productions. Tickets are available at www.liceubarcelona.cat QUARTETT. LUCA FRANCESCONI.

"After 20 years, major technical changes are necessary. The coming summer we will invest one million euros in updating machinery and lighting equipment"

From February 22nd to March 3rd This is the first performance in Spain of this production by Alex Ollé (of theatrical group La Fura dels Baus). Composed by Luca Francesconi, Quartett is a re-reading of Heiner Müller's play based on the novel Les Liaisons dangereuses (1782), which reflects on the decadence of certain classes of French society in the 18th century. The production is set to be a unique audiovisual experience. The action takes place in a box suspended above the stage, and the music is a combination of the live Liceu orchestra and pre-recorded, electronically-manipulated music.

The Liceu has another ace up its sleeve—the choir. Its 57 members, led by Conxita Garcia, are outstanding. Their sound is crisp, strong and full of emotion, reaching the highest octaves. Asked about the secret behind the choir’s success, Garcia said, “There is no secret. I show kindness and respect for each piece of music, as well as for the musicians I have in front of me, and I know very well where I want to get to at each moment and with each work.” This year the restored Liceu will be turning 18. “After 20 years, major technical changes are necessary. The coming summer we will invest one million euros in updating machinery and lighting equipment,” said technical director Xavier Sagrera. Asked why more could not be done to reduce the number of seats with low or no visibility he said that once the decision was made to keep the original horseshoe form of the seating area, it was clear that they would have to put an audio-visual system in some seats to give some visual information to those sitting in places that do not have a good or practically any view of the stage. Barcelona is fortunate to have an opera house that values quality, understands its strengths and does the best it can to manage its financial structure. The Liceu’s audience, whose international character is growing steadily, recognises the house's high calibre and, in some part at least, does its best not to rush out to catch the metro at the end of the performance without showing due respect to the performers. In times when the rules of opera behaviour are becoming looser, things like this not only count, but make an opera house truly great.

RIGOLETTO. GIUSEPPE VERDI. From March 21st to April 6th Based on a play by Victor Hugo, Rigoletto was censored before its premiere for criticising the monarchy of the period. In this minimalist but striking production by Monique Wagemaker, Javier Camarena and Antonino Siragusa debut as the Duke of Mantua. Seduction, rage and revenge are all part of the fiery plot.

THE FLYING DUTCHMAN. RICHARD WAGNER. From May 2nd to the 28th Redemption through love is the central theme of The Flying Dutchman, which Wagner finished in 1841. Set in Norway, a young Dutchman is condemned to roam the seas till he finds a woman who is faithful. He finds true love in Senta but falls into despair when she is reclaimed by her previous suitor. Stage and cinema director Philipp Stölzl reinterprets the tale by transferring it to the Daland mansion, where Senta is reading the legend of the Flying Dutchman. Fact and fiction intertwine as she imagines the events unfolding.

DON GIOVANNI. WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART. From June 19th to July 2nd Kasper Holten’s high-tech production of one of Mozart’s most popular operas is set amid a complex staging of platforms and stairs, and features striking special effects and projected images. It tells the story of an arrogant and promiscuous nobleman who, with the help of his servant Leporello, leads an unrepentant life of seduction and lying.

Photo by J. C. Carbonne

IL TROVATORE. GIUSEPPE VERDI. From July 17th to the 29th Joan Anton Rechi has updated the Liceu’s version of Il trovatore. Set in Zaragoza, Manrico, a troubadour, and Leonora are in love, but Count di Luna is also wooing Leonora. The count captures and tortures Azucena, a gypsy who is supposedly Manrico's mother, and when he tries to rescue her, he too is taken. Leonora intercedes by offering to marry the count, but ultimately commits suicide. Count di Luna then kills Manrico and it's the dying Azucena who reveals that the troubadour was the count's long-lost brother.

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Join our

Open House

Saturday, February 11th at 10:30 • Leading International Baccalaureate program in Barcelona since 2009 • International population representing 50 different nationalities • Open air campus with new and renovated facilities • Educating students since 1962 The Open House includes short presentations by the Director and Principals followed by guided tours of the school, student testimonials, and lots of opportunity to ask questions! RS VP at www. a sbarce l o na.co m Jaume Balmes 7, Esplugues de Llobregat, 08950, Barcelona Tel. 93 371 4016 Ext.155

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Piping

HOT GET YOUR WINTER CAFFEINE BOOST AT ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE COFFEE SHOPS

1. Once from a squat red coffee truck, now also at a coffee corner inside the Makers of Barcelona workspace, Guatemalan owner-barista Gianluca Buonafina brews aromatic Latin American coffee for La Cherry. Bailèn 11. www.facebook.com/ LaCherryCoffeeTruck. 2. Partnering with local micro-roasters, Black Remedy serves up speciality and single-origin coffees. The biggest draw is their Slayer, a handcrafted espresso machine that takes a minute to slow brew each and every cup. Ciutat 5. www.blackremedy.com. 3. Bernat, owner of Bermont Coffee, is a coffee genius. Be sure to ask him anything you want to know about your cup of Joe. His enthusiastic answers and the atmosphere of this tiny cafe will make you feel right at home. Bretón de los Herreros 2. www.facebook.com/bermontcoffee. 4. Enjoy a flat white—the most popular drink in this hipster mecca—at Satan’s Coffee Corner. Arc de Sant Ramon del Call 11. www.facebook.com/SatansCoffeeCorner. 5. Onna Coffee is all about the origins. Owner Anahí Paez sources her beans from her home country of Costa Rica, and ensures that her shop’s production practices are fair and the coffee quality is always at its best. Santa Teresa 1. onnacoffee.com.

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TRAVEL

36 Hours

IN MADRID THINKING OF A ROMANTIC GETAWAY THIS VALENTINE’S DAY? WELCOME TO THE LAND OF FREE TAPAS, THE CALAMARI SANDWICH AND THE WARM AND FRIENDLY MADRILEÑO PERSONALITY BY ROSALIND BOND

DAY ONE

et your bearings in the city’s old town, known as Habsburg Madrid. Puerta del Sol (metro Sol) is your starting point, and despite not being the most beautiful of Madrid’s many plazas, it is a bustling centre of public life with its constant stream of friends and families. This is the site of kilometre zero—marked by a plaque in the ground—which is the symbolic centre of Spain. From here, head down Calle Mayor to Plaza Mayor. This ornate square was planned by Felipe II, the monarch who made Madrid the country’s capital, and finalised in 1619, by Felipe III, whose statue stands in the middle of the plaza. The square was once the site of the faith trials and executions of the Inquisition as well as coronations, festivals, demonstrations and plays. Next up, the Market of San Miguel (Mercado de San Miguel) ticks the boxes of both historic landmark and refreshment pitstop. This striking building dates from 1916, and has an elaborate iron structure—the only one of its kind left in Madrid. The site was originally home to an outdoor produce market, but now the food is slightly more refined, focussing mainly on upmarket tapas. Carry on along Calle Mayor to Plaza de la Villa, one of the oldest plazas in Madrid. Among its mishmash of architectural styles is the 15th-century Torre de los Lujanes

and the 17th-century town hall building. Now nip over to Plaza Isabel II where you can admire the Teatro Real (Royal Theatre), founded in 1818. Tours of the theatre run every day from 10.30am to 1pm or, for those interested in catching a show, the programme can be found at www. teatro-real.com. The final stop before lunch is the beautifully landscaped garden of Plaza de Oriente, dating from 1844.

Following such a busy day, it’s time to let your hair down. Madrid’s undeniable nightlife hotspot is the barrio of Malasaña After all this walking you’ll be in need of some lunch. Now’s the perfect moment to dive into one of Madrid’s authentic (if slightly seedy-looking) bars to order a hometown speciality—the calamari sandwich. After getting your strength up it’s time to tackle the Royal Palace of Madrid. Built between the years of 1738 and 1755, this grandiose edifice is famed as the biggest palace in Europe by floor size. Following such a busy day, it’s time to let your hair down. Madrid’s undeniable nightlife hotspot is the

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alternative barrio of Malasaña. Get off the metro at Noviciado and wander the narrow streets that are packed with bars, restaurants and cafes and see what you stumble across. For a more specific destination, Ojalá (San Andrés 1) is a good place to head for. This kooky bar-restaurant serves up a range of tapas, burgers and cocktails and even has its own beach. Continue the night at Vía Láctea (Velarde 18), an emblematic spot that encapsulates the neighbourhood’s alternative, rocker vibe, or Siroco (San Dimas 3), a haven for live music. Finish off the night at Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Gines 5), a chocolate cafe that opened in 1894, and has become a classic pitstop for some late night churros. It’s open 24 hours to cater to the post-party crowd.

DAY TWO

Start the day with a restorative breakfast at Jardín de Salvador Bachiller (Montera 37) where the decadent three-course brunch will set you up for the day. It’s now time to decide what type of tourist you really are, a shopper or a culture vulture. The shoppers will want to head to El Rastro, Madrid’s famous flea market held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm. The whopping 3,500 stalls cover the area in and around Plaza de Cascorro and are a treasure trove of curiosities. The more high-brow among you should head towards the Golden Triangle of Art, which is made up of Madrid’s three most important art museums. The giant of these three is the Prado (Paseo del Prado). Founded in 1819, Spain’s main national art museum houses works from the 12th to the early 20th century and includes names such as Francisco de Goya and Diego Velázquez. If your tastes are less traditional then you might prefer the Reina Sofia Museum (Santa Isabel 52), which focusses on 20th-century modern art, or the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Paseo del Prado 8), which includes works of Impressionism and Expressionism. On the way to these museums be sure to pass by the imposing buildings of the Cervantes Institute and the Banco de España (Calle de Alcalá), as well as the lavish Plaza de Cibeles. Take an afternoon stroll around Retiro Park, Madrid’s epic green lung that dates back to the 1500s. Until the 19th century the park belonged to the Spanish Monarchy, so it’s no coincidence that the tree-lined avenues and plethora of sculptures have such a regal feel to them. After an action-packed weekend it’s time to hot foot it back to the train station or airport and head for home.

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restaurant review

FOOD AND DRINK

Informal MORE INFO The Serras Hotel Passeig de Colom 9 T. 93 169 1869 hoteltheserrasbarcelona.com Breakfast 8am-11am Lunch noon-4pm Dinner 8pm-11pm (Fri and Sat until midnight) ✪✪✪✪✪

fter dining at Informal, the elegant restaurant of The Serras Barcelona, a boutique hotel at the bottom fringe of the Barri Gòtic along Passeig de Colom, I was surprised to read that CNN had named this intimate eatery one of the ‘10 Best New Restaurants in the World to Eat at in 2016’. To be clear, I wasn’t shocked that journalist Chris Dwyer was so enamoured by Michelinstarred chef Marc Gascons’s stylish and refined Mediterranean cuisine that he included it on this list (Informal was the only restaurant in Spain to make the cut), because the food was excellent; rather, I was surprised that up until this winter, Informal hadn’t come up on my radar as a place to try. Following the recommendation of an acquaintance, I approached Informal to arrange a tasting of the menu for myself and a friend, and overall we were very impressed by the food and the service (though completely overwhelmed by the quantity of wild mushrooms on the menu, which seemed to work their way into nearly every plate we were served). The à la carte menu at Informal changes every few months and relies heavily on seasonal ingredients. November and December were all about wild mushrooms, while further into winter Chef Gascons’s indulgent tastes will be kicked up a notch, as copious amounts of winter truffles were promised to us in the event of a second visit. Dinner began with a light salad of shredded King Crab meat, paired with an avocado purée, diced celeriac and green apple, a seaweed tapenade, and bouncy, sweet cubes of muscatel wine gelée. King Crab isn’t my favourite ingredient, but I found the dish well balanced and very enjoyable. Next came one of the best, yet most simple dishes of the meal: a skillet of mixed sautéed mushrooms, botifarra de perol (a classic Catalan sausage made often from pig bits such as head, jowl and belly, which is typically crumbled after cooking) and artichokes. Atop the finished mushroom mixture, two eggs were cracked and cooked perfectly by the gentle residual heat of the skillet. Not a hint of burnt egg white was present here and the combination of mushroom, sausage and artichokes—though well-worn territory when it comes to local gastronomy—was sublime. One dish that really surprised and delighted both my dinner

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✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP

Photos courtesy of Informal

TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING? BY SAM ZUCKER

companion and myself was the single, huge, pumpkin ravioli that arrived at the table, topped with artichokes and mushrooms, dotted with tomato purée, spinach pesto and pumpkin purée, and lightly swaddled in an airy bechamel foam. The pasta itself was cooked just past al dente, and sharing one monster ravioli (cut into quarters, pizza style) was fun. I really loved this dish, though adding some cheese would have made it even better. The bechamel foam was meant to serve as the ‘creamy’ note (I suspect) but offered little flavour when compared to the other components on the plate. When eating scallops in Barcelona, a diner most commonly encounters the small zamburiñas, cooked in their open shells, which grace tables and tapas bars throughout the city. So, when plump and meaty sea scallops like the ones I grew up eating along the New England coast show up on a menu, I’m easily tempted. At Informal, the scallops are seared to a caramel brown on one side until just forktender, then served over firm polenta, confit mushrooms, snap peas, sun-dried tomatoes, panceta Ibérica and sunflower seeds in a mushroom broth. The concept and execution of the dish was spot-on. At this point, I was reaching the funghi saturation point, though there was still more to come. Too much of a good thing really does exist. For the final savoury course of the night, we had the pleasure of eating the most succulent piece of grilled venison I have ever tasted. Presented by our waiter under a smoke-filled glass cloche, the venison loin was dressed with a spiced venison jus and stewed red berries, with crispy cubes of fried yucca scattered atop a purée of root vegetables and a ‘soil’ of dehydrated, powdered mushrooms. I’m not sure exactly how this meat was prepared, but I would guess it was first cooked sous vide then grilled in order to achieve such an incredible level of tenderness while still achieving that coveted grilled char on the outside of the meat. To my delight, dinner ended on a gin-infused high with a dessert that had me scraping the bowl and licking my spoon. To be honest, the ‘Gin Tónic’ dessert doesn’t look like much—imagine a bowl of thick white meringue sprinkled with lime zest—however, hiding under this light and velvety foam of tonka bean-spiked gin was a custard of lemon and raspberry that was both rich and acidic; the perfect palate-cleansing plate to end an exceptional culinary experience.

✪✪ COULD IMPROVE

✪✪✪ GOOD

✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

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RECIPE BY TARA STEVENS gachas with grilled cauliflower, portobello mushrooms and smoky almonds

Ingredients 200g barley, soaked in water overnight 1 litre vegetable stock 1 small glass white wine 1 Figueres onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan (optional)

Gachas is an old Spanish dish, porridge-like, and traditionally made using almorta (grass peas) flour, which you can still get in some health food stores. Method Sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil over a low heat until golden and sweet smelling. Drain the barley and add to the onion, stirring so that it’s well coated. Add the wine to the stock and heat through. Add the liquid, one ladleful at a time, to the barley, allowing it to absorb most of the liquid before adding the next one. It should take 25-30 minutes for the barley to absorb all the stock, by which time the grains should be moist and tender. Don’t let it dry out, if it’s not cooked by now, add a little water to help

1/2 cauliflower, split into large florets 3 tbsp flaked almonds 1 tsp smoked pimentón 4 large Portobello mushrooms, cut into quarters 2 tbsp unsalted butter 3-4 sprigs fresh rosemary Salt and pepper to taste

it along. While the barley is cooking, boil the cauliflower until al dente. Remove from the pan and cut into 1cm slices. Melt 1 tbsp of butter in a pan until foaming. Next add the pimentón and the flaked almonds and fry until golden. Remove the nuts and fry the cauliflower slices for 30 seconds on either side until golden. Remove the cauliflower and add the rest of the butter. Add the Portobello mushrooms and cook until tender. Check the barley for seasoning and stir in the Parmesan cheese if desired. Split the barley into portions in shallow bowls, top with the cauliflower slices and mushrooms. Sprinkle with almonds and garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

IN SEASON: Cabbage, canónigos (lamb’s lettuce), calçots

Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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FOOD AND DRINK

NOMM

AN INDULGENT TASTE OF ASIA, PORTUGAL AND EVERYWHERE IN BETWEEN BY SAM ZUCKER

Photos courtesy of Nomm

omm has claimed a coveted location on the corner of Avinguda del Paral∙lel and Carrer del Parlament, adding their unique brand of Asian fusion to the neighbourhood’s blossoming food scene. Nomm is the creation of two potent culinary minds, Portuguese chef Nuno Costa (with a decade of professional cooking experience under his belt, including time spent in the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurant Marqués de Riscal, in the heart of La Rioja) and Peter Vivant (restaurant innovator who, after years of living and travelling throughout Asia, brings his gastronomic personal history to the table). You may remember Peter from my article 'Come Dine With Me' (June 2015), as he was one of the top-rated Barcelona hosts on EatWith, the popular online food experience booking platform, prior to Nomm’s launch. For years, Peter entertained countless guests in his home with flavour-packed Asian dishes of Chinese origin, so when the opportunity to open a restaurant in the city centre presented itself, the choice was simple. The menu at Nomm is definitely upscale, without a stiff formality, putting it head and shoulders above many of the pan-Asian restaurants in Barcelona that, while being tasty, often don’t offer true creativity to their patrons. The cuisine of Nomm is a self-proclaimed assortment from ‘Hong Kong, Vietnam, Thailand, China, Japan, South Korea, Latin America, Portugal, France, Italy and Catalunya’. Tantalising dishes like Spicy Tuna Tartar with fried quinoa, kimchi sauce and potato ‘airbags’, Steak Tartar with truffle, mustard ice cream and Sichuan peppercorns, Scallop, Sea Urchin nigiri with Tandoori masala, and Foie Gras micuit rolled in seaweed with tahini hazelnut mousse and peanut butter ice cream show off Peter’s bon vivant zeal, and both the execution and presentation live up to expectations. As an added bonus, Chef Nuno Costa has brought along some flavours of his native Lisbon that should not be missed, including an incredible dish of Grilled Octopus with chorizo egg yolk croquettes, pickles, Kalamata olives and potato foam, as well as the cataplana of sautéed clams Bulhão Pato style—a classic way of serving clams in Portugal, except at Nomm, you can choose to add kimchi or curry. There’s always an indulgent twist.

MORE INFO Av. del Para·lel 130. T. 93 280 7925. nommbcn.com Tues-Thurs 5pm-2am, Fri-Sat 5pm-3am, Sun 5pm-12am, Mon closed

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NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER 4BARRI GÒTIC

BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards.

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag.

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

NEW BEER TOUR

Indian / Tandoori SURYA4EIXAMPLE

NICE SPICE4POBLENOU

Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm

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FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

MALPASO4EIXAMPLE

CAFÉ MENSSANA4 CIUTAT VELLA

This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend.

At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere. Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Take Away Shop Healthy food cooked by us for you to take away. Our food begins with ingredients which have been sourced for their freshness and quality. We support local ecological providers. Our dishes are a representation of the seasons and we strive to provide fresh dishes prepared on a daily basis. Check the website for the current menu.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU

Business Catering Súper is specialised in catering for business events and meetings of any size. Contact info@superbcn.es for a detailed overview.

Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu.

Roc Boronat 102, 08018 | Tel: 933 099 838 Mon - Fri: 8am - 6pm | www.superbcn.es | @ superbcnes

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

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HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel conﬁdent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certiﬁed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, bed wetting (enuresis) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offers specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders. Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efﬁcient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a ﬁve-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Carrer de L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

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Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certiﬁed by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of ﬁrst-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Platinum Provider

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Jessica Boston COGNITIVE HYPNOTHERAPIST & COACH

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca www.jessicaboston.com hello@jessicaboston.com

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a forgein country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT FREE CONSULTATION

NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS

Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualiﬁed and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

Lovecycle - CYCLING REINVENTED

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual proﬁle. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The ﬁrst consultation is free.

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating ﬁtness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!

READER OFFER

Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com

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Symmetry Pilates - PILATES

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the beneﬁt is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.

READER OFFER

Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

Tatiane Canário

- PILATES

READER OFFER

Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre located in the Sants district is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com

READER OFFER

Georgina Weinstein - VOICE COACH Singing teacher, jazz vocalist and certiﬁed life coach, Georgina offers coaching for people looking to enhance their vocal skills for both singing and public speaking. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their conﬁdence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English. M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com

Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reﬂexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com

Creative Resilience - THERAPY AND COACHING

YogaconGracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will ﬁnd a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com

The oldest way of thinking about life and a different kind of therapy. Everybody is resilient, it’s just that sometimes we don’t feel it, or we just need a little time to get it back. Therapy and coaching for individuals, couples, parents and organisations. Psychologist qualified in London, Latin America and Barcelona. READER OFFER

Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona, with 23 years of experience, who specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has years of experience with back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends. 30% OFF FIRST VISIT

Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Oliver Dawson - BORN CHIROPRACTIC Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through speciﬁc spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today.

Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difﬁcult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session. M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net

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M. 698 370 552 jowilkie@creative-resilience.com www.creative-resilience.com

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST

Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402 Info@sarriaquiropractica.com www.sarriaquiropractica.com

Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Pilates and muscle activation in a beautiful, fully equipped studio in Gracia, run by Pilates professionals with more than 15 years of experience. Classes available for individuals and pairs, ﬁrst class is free. Bring this ad and receive a 10% discount when you sign up for the ﬁrst 3 months. T. 93 217 3025 info@tatianecanario.com

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

Emma Axelsson - THERAPY & COACHING FOR SELF-ESTEEM & ANXIETY Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information READER OFFER

República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) We offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Sánchez Molina -

Klev & Vera - LAW FIRM

LEGAL PRACTICE

This firm specialises in attending the legal needs of international clients in Spain. They have multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: • Real Estate • Business Set Up • Spanish Residence • Family Law • Litigation • Tax Planning

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Spain Accounting-

READER OFFER

Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT • Barcelona’s premier network for international women. • Approx. 200 members from 20+ countries. • As a social club that supports local organizations, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and networking & promotional opportunities. We help women thrive in Barcelona.

Supported charities 2016 - 2018 membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

BARCELONA OFFICE SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860 info@barcelonaofﬁce.com www.barcelonaofﬁce.com

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cardy.adventures@gmail.com

Mrs.Q Design Studio -

Step Up With V CAREER COACHING Coaching services for global-minded professionals who want to take their career (and life!) to the next level. Find clarity, purpose and focus, and create your ideal work-life balance. Develop confidence, leverage your strengths and unique value proposition, communicate effectively and increase your opportunities! First consultation free of charge.

CALL FOR A FREE CONSULTATION

M. 619 022 676 stepupwithv@gmail.com www.stepupwithv.com

NEW

website

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q specialises in bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Visit her Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/ MrsQdesignstudio.

www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

Garment Printing - BUSINESS

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER

Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! Whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today. Garment Printing

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your interests and needs! Coral is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher. Try her personalised courses, which use effective methods to make learning easy. All levels; private or small groups. For a private, 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35.

Roger De Flor 289 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

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GRAPHIC DESIGN

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

Home Orden Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. We can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs. FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

M. 625 204 328 stephanie@homeorden.com

CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With our latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, we provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, including Wimbledon, Euro ‘16 and the Rio Olympics. Phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. T. 90 010 2527 www.ibexinsure.com

Connecta Languages - TRANSLATORS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualified linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact us today and say goodbye to language barriers. M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages.com

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Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

Oak House - SCHOOL

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. You can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

T. 93 125 8626 info@coccinelle.es www.coccinelle.es

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES

Corsa International - DRIVING SCHOOL

Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

international@autoescuelacorsa.com

www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

Yacht Point Barcelona - Online navigation theory courses & Sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!

info@yachtpointbcn.com 0034 93 0045707 http://yachtpointbcn.com/en/ryatraining-centre/

NIE Barcelona

- BUSINESS

NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

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BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN

SAM SAYS...

CREATING A SUSTAINABLE LIFE IN THE CITY Dear Sam, I just moved to Barcelona from California where I led an extremely ‘conscious’ life (for lack of a better word) when it came to the environment, my carbon footprint and the food I was eating. I know ‘farm to fork’ is all the rage right now and this is something that I truly embodied when living out west. What I’ve been struggling with since moving here is how to incorporate these values into my lifestyle. I realise it’s a different city and culture, but I do see restaurants and shops catering more to people who care about these issues and I was wondering if you had any tips or advice. Thanks so much for your help. Striving to be Sustainable Hi Striving to be Sustainable, Thanks for bringing this topic to the table. It’s something we’ve touched on briefly in this column but have never delved into. You’re right that terms like slow food, organic, ecological and 0KM are very much on trend, and although it might not be as obvious or as overt as in the States, there is a movement in Barcelona to be more sustainable. As this isn’t my area of expertise, I’ve brought in Guillaume, co-founder of Barcelona Slow Travel (barcelonaslowtravel.com), a company dedicated to sustainable tourism, to help answer your questions. Q: How can I live a more sustainable life in Barcelona? Guillaume: There are plenty of ways and it usually comes down to just improving or adjusting our habits. To get started here are a few main areas to focus on: • Transport: Try walking or biking whenever possible. Barcelona has ramped up its bike lanes quite a lot and it’s a lot easier to cycle throughout the city now. If you don’t have a bike, sign up for Bicing, it’s economical and easy to use. • Purchases: Frequent ‘slow shops’ for more sustainable shopping. These stores offer everything that’s local, ethical and organic from clothes to children’s toys. Gràcia is a great place for sustainable shopping in the city. • Be a ‘DIYer’: Create your own furniture by reusing old materials. If you’re not up to the challenge there are many shops in town that make incredible handmade recycled pieces. Q: Where can I source my food (meat and otherwise)? Do you have any suggestions or any specific farmers or people I should get in touch with? Guillaume: Try to source food from small, local and, if possible, organic producers. Here are two small producers that I personally like: • Horta Pla de Munt: They grow most of their local veggies and some seasonal fruits, and all of it’s organic. You can also shop online and they will deliver once a week to your home in Barcelona. • Cal Roio: They have a great sustainable project in which they produce organic chicken, and they also sell other meats. If you order a lot they’ll deliver straight to your door, and if not there are many shops and cooperatives where you can find their products in Barcelona. Q: Is there anything I should stop doing that’s not helping me lead a more sustainable existence in Barcelona? Guillaume: I’d say the essential thing to stop doing is thinking negatively (which it doesn’t sound like you do). For example, if you think that ‘whatever I do won’t make a difference’, this isn’t true and definitely isn’t helpful. Any small step towards increased sustainability is a small victory in and of itself and will encourage others to follow your path.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

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INTERVIEW

Guiomar Pau Sole and Albert Gonzalez Farran COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER AND PHOTOJOURNALIST FROM BARCELONA, LIVING IN SOUTH SUDAN BY SAM MEDNICK

about what’s going on here. They can’t believe that things like this are happening in the world: killing, raping, people dying from starvation. It’s hard to understand how come in the 21st century these people still have nothing to eat. In a world with so much excess, where we have too much of everything in places like Barcelona and Europe, how come in other places they don’t have enough? How come children are in such bad shape and starving? It’s sad that these issues still exist. Albert: One of the hardest stories I covered was of a baby who fought for her life but ultimately didn’t make it due to a technical failure with a generator. The child could have easily survived in a normal hospital in Barcelona. It was really difficult to continue working after she died but I forced myself to go on because you can’t stop and you can’t allow your emotions to block you. The mother was crying and I kept taking photographs. I had very strong feelings at that moment. I was embarrassed that I was taking pictures and kept wondering if I was doing the right thing—but I think I was. Being born in South Sudan is a matter of fate. We were lucky that we were born in a nice country with good resources. Albert: I keep my emotions in check because it’s meaningful work. You can create an impact and get feedback with the photographs. That picture I took of the baby was distributed and published in El Mundo and in Australia, allowing donors or other people to see what’s happening and invest money in these types of issues—to make generators that don’t fail, for example. Albert & Guiomar: We don’t plan. We don’t think we’ll be doing this forever but right now our lives are linked with our professional opportunities. If we had an offer in Barcelona we’d go back tomorrow but it depends on what comes up. For a closer look at Albert’s photography visit his website: www.albertgonzalez.net/english

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

Communications officer at UNOCHA, Guiomar Pau Sole and her partner of 14 years, photojournalist Albert Gonzalez Farran, have been living in South Sudan for almost two years. Metropolitan writer Sam Mednick caught up with them in the South Sudanese capital of Juba to talk candidly about living and working in a conflict area. Albert: I love photography, photojournalism and the stories they tell. I used to work at a local newspaper in Lleida, but there was a point where I felt the need to explore something beyond my own context. I like using photography to let people in Europe know what is happening far away from them—for example my mom in Barcelona knows what’s happening because I’m here. Guiomar: I followed Albert to Darfur—that’s where I first started. It was at a time when the crisis in Spain was quite bad and my job wasn’t secure. I thought that I’d like to be with Albert and get some international experience and so I went to Darfur in 2010. I liked it. I found it interesting and challenging and today I’m here, in Juba. Albert: The hardest part about being here is gaining access to places and locations due to logistical issues, security and the need to get approval from the authorities. Taking photos in the streets or sensitive locations is challenging and it’s risky dealing with the army or national security. The stories are there but accessing them is tricky. There are many places now in South Sudan that the humanitarian world cannot reach and people are suffering as a result. Guiomar: What’s challenging is that the nature of the work is dependent on the situation in the country. Due to the political context and the dynamics of the conflict we need to be mindful about what we say, how we say it, the information we generate and so on. The work can also be very intense depending on the day, and can also be stressful, so you have to manage that stress. Guiomar: Working here with Albert makes life much easier than being alone. Due to all of the restrictions (curfew, not being able to go wherever you want, etc.) having someone you love with you makes your life much better. It also gives you more balance as I have more of a personal life that’s separate from my professional life. Albert: It’s hard being here because you can’t have a standard life. We can’t raise kids or plan for the future because tomorrow everything can be blown up and we’ll be evacuated. We live in the present. People normally plan or think about next year as in we’ll do this or that, but we just plan one or two months ahead as in where should we go on holiday next. Guiomar: It helps that we both work in the same field because we know how to support each other. We’re familiar with the other’s reality. He goes into the field more than I do but I know the reality that he’s facing every day so I can relate to that. Albert: People back home are always so surprised when we talk

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