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RESTAURANT REVIEWS
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TH A N NIVERS ARY Patek Philippe - F.P. Journe - Ulysse Nardin - Girard Perregaux Zenith - Bremont - Nomos - Baume et Mercier - Bell & Ross TagHeuer - Cuervo y Sobrinos - Oris - Vulcain - Junghans - Ball Sevenfriday - Qlocktwo - Suuntoto
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CONTENTS
ISSUE 245 · JUNE 2017
IN THE CITY 06 08 11 12 15 16 19 25 82
New in town Streetlife Five things A place of my own History Best of Shopping Día Orwell Out & About
WHAT’S ON 32 Music 36 Art 40 Misc 42 Calendar
WORKING LIFE 53 Startup of the month 54 Spain’s working hours 56 A day in the life
TRAVEL
REPORT: THE TOURIST DILEMMA
58 Stargazing 62 Cabanes als arbres
Is the Ajuntament anti-tourist or is it promoting a sustainable model for the city?
FOOD & DRINK
FESTIVAL GUIDE 2017
64 Restaurant review 66 Quick bites
Start planning your summer of music
FROM WHOLESALE SHOPS TO ART GALLERIES The transformation of Carrer de Trafalgar
BARCELONA FOR FREE Get your culture fix without breaking the bank
METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Founder Esther Jones Director Andrea Moreno Editors Rachel Huffman, Carol Moran Art Director Aisling Quigley Sales Director Jalil Alui Client Care Manager Aminah Barnes Sales Guillem Agusti, Mauricio Valadares Ortiz, Sander Vanheel Digital Analyst Richard Cardwell Editorial Assistants Sally Hargrave, Elizabeth Hlavinka, Marta Nicita, Amelia Wynne Design Assistant Jonne Rutten Contributors Rosalind Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Catherine Howley, Priyankaa Joshi, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographer Lewis Gregory Illustrator Ben Rowdon Cover photo Lewis Gregory Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96
PRIYANKAA JOSHI Originally from Bristol in the UK, Priyankaa studied Spanish at the University of Birmingham. As part of her degree, she spent her year abroad living in Barcelona and fell in love with the city. After graduating, she moved back to Barcelona to teach English, practise her language skills, wander through the city’s narrow streets and sample its gastronomic delights. Since working as an editorial assistant at Barcelona Metropolitan, Priyankaa has enjoyed exploring the city and meeting its people.
MELISSA LEIGHTY Melissa set her sights on Spain eight years ago and never looked back. As a freelance writer and photographer, she covers travel, food and wine. Her insatiable thirst for travel and new cuisine has led her to try mare’s milk in Mongolia and fish pies in Siberia, but she’s happiest with the canelons de la iaia right here in her own backyard. She publishes a food blog about Catalan cuisine called Ataula (ataula.co) and is at work on a new book about wine and travel. Follow her on Instagram @ataula_co and @mpleighty.
ROSALIND BOND Originally from Oxfordshire, UK, Rosie studied French and Spanish at the University of Manchester, which gave her the opportunity to live abroad, first in Paris and then in Buenos Aires. She loved the experience so much that when she finished her degree she decided to move again, this time to Barcelona. She loves exploring the city and discovering hidden places, something writing for Metropolitan helps her to do. Other than writing, she likes travelling, reading and her latest hobby, swing dancing.
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IN THE CITY
new in town OFF THE VINE amovino. aribau 30. AMOVINO.ES A shared passion for wine is behind the launch of AmoVino by French co-owners Guilhem, Pierre and Lili. Open since the beginning of March, AmoVino combines three spaces in one. “We want to make wine accessible to everyone by offering a complete wine experience,” said Lili. At the bar, customers can sample wine or cava, accompanied by platillos that complement their drink of choice, such as the pulpo a la plancha. Further inside, the bodega houses 100 varieties of Catalan wine that can be purchased by the bottle. And finally, the tasting room seats 10, with glass walls and beautiful hydraulic tiles setting the mood. Here, you can attend one of AmoVino’s biweekly wine tastings hosted by local producers, and learn about the process from vine to wine.
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BOWLED OVER El Flako. GEnEral ÁlvarEz dE Castro 5. FACEBOOK.COM/ELFLAKO.BCN Remember the excitement you felt as a child when your parents let you have chocolate cereal for breakfast? Well, get ready for a rush of nostalgia. At El Flako, Barcelona’s first cereal cafe, which opened in the Born a few months ago, there are more than 100 varieties of cereal. Customers can create their own bowl from scratch, combining any of the cereals on offer with one of the 80-odd toppings and their choice of flavoured milk. For the indecisive, El Flako also has a menu of constantly changing combinations chosen by the staff to deliver maximum flavour. “We like to think of ourselves as cereal experts,” said employee Nicolás Castán while explaining the rigorous tasting process that goes into crafting each unique mix. They cater to the health-conscious too, with sugar and gluten-free options available, as well as plenty of fresh fruit add-ons.
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TAKE A BOW la PaJarErÍa Condal. ramÓn Y CaJal 49. LAPAJARERIACONDAL.COM Silk, patterned, pleated—when it comes to bow ties, Alejandro and Ana Álvarez, the brother and sister team behind La Pajarería Condal, really know their stuff. Designer Alejandro has been putting his unique touch on the classic British garment since 2009, but it wasn’t until a few months ago that the pair opened their shop, the first in the city dedicated to the bow tie. Here, customers can choose from a quirky selection of bow ties and regular ties, or they can commission a bespoke design. “We believe in the importance of quality craftsmanship,” said Ana, detailing the steps that go into producing each bow tie. “We handpick all the fabrics in Italy, and my brother finishes each bow tie by hand in his studio behind the shop.”
CLEAN EATING FoodiEs. PuJadEs 225. FOODIESBARCELONA.ES It often proved difficult for Daniela and Martin Santos to find affordable, nutritious lunch options near their past office jobs. So, in 2013, they dropped everything to start their own business. Foodies was originally a food delivery service, but in March of this year, the husband and wife team opened their first bricks and mortar place in Poblenou. Foodies Restaurant and Salad Bar sources bread from local bakers at Cruixent and the Yellow Bakery, certified organic beef burgers from the Pyrenees, and speciality, vegan sodas from Germany. Patrons have the option to make their own salad or order from a set menu that changes daily. And although most menu items are standard fare, they add their own creative spin to dishes, such as using a creamy avocado purée as a substitute for hollandaise sauce in the eggs benedict. The restaurant’s mission is to serve simple dishes all foodies can enjoy. “We’re foodies ourselves,” Daniela said. “We’re passionate about cooking, eating well and discovering new flavours from all around the world. And we are happy to welcome all those who feel the same way to our new restaurant.”
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IN THE CITY
streetlife
CARRER DELS ALMOGÀVERS Stretching across Poblenou, this street has seen an array of new businesses join the area’s well-established party scene
No 56 Santa Rita Experience
This supper club is run from the home of chef Xabi Bonilla, whose impressive credentials include Michelin-starred restaurants Casa Marcial and El Raco d’en Freixa. “I want people to experience fine dining in a relaxed, intimate setting,” explained Bonilla. Born in San Sebastián, he drew inspiration for Santa Rita Experience from the traditional Basque txoko, a private gastronomical society where members gather to cook, eat, drink and chat. In Bonilla’s spacious loft, guests can enjoy a seasonal six-course tasting menu, with the option of a private table or communal dining experience, for €55. Expect innovative takes on typical Spanish and Basque dishes such as white asparagus gazpacho, hake marinated in ceviche juice and lentils with chocolate. For those looking to improve their culinary skills, Santa Rita also offers market tours and cooking classes. santaritaexperience.com
No 116
No 122
Sala Rocksound
Created to fill a gap in the market, Antoni Celeiro, a carpenter by trade, opened Sala Rocksound as a space for rock, punk and metal aficionados to enjoy live music from local and international bands. Stepping into the tight space, electric guitars, vintage posters and band T-shirts adorn the walls. “It has an authentic rock vibe, great artists and cheap beer—there’s nowhere else like it in Barcelona,” said regular customer Paula, 31, from Catalunya. salarocksound.com
Razzmatazz
Over 17 years, Razzmatazz has established itself as one of Barcelona’s landmark clubs. The five-room multiplex has built its reputation through high quality lineups that showcase a range of genres. Since opening in 2000, a host of international artists such as Coldplay, Kanye West, Arctic Monkeys and Pendulum have graced its many stages. Frequent party-goer and student Belle, 22, from Toulouse, said she likes Razzmatazz for its “sheer variety. Whether I’m in the mood for a techno rave or an acoustic indie gig, there’s always something that fits the bill.” salarazzmatazz.com
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No 208
Niu: Espai Artístic Contemporani
Owned by lifelong Poblenou resident Sergi Bueno Navarro, this cultural association and multi-art space provides a platform for emerging artists and musicians to present their work. “Our aim is to promote contemporary art and experimental music, making them accessible to the general public,” said Bueno Navarro. Now in its 12th year, Niu offers a jam-packed programme of weekly activities, from concerts and exhibitions to workshops and DJ sessions. With an inexpensive bar and lively atmosphere, stop by when there’s an event on and broaden your artistic horizons. niubcn.com
No 225
L’estoc
If you’re tired of Ikea furniture, L’estoc is a good alternative. This unique furniture store was founded in 2010, by Jordi Mayals, as a social project. Inspired by his brother, who is disabled, Mayals employs people with intellectual disabilities as carpenters, providing them with opportunities for development. Inside the bright and airy showroom, you’ll find an eclectic range of furniture made from recycled materials and disused objects. Skilled craftspeople give this old furniture a new lease of life in the adjoining workshop—shabby wooden shutters are transformed into rustic benches, and salvaged doors into sleek dining tables. lestoc.com
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FIVE THINGS
GET
WET
The best watersports to help you make a splash
1. FLYBOARDING
Invented by French jet ski champion Frank Zapata in 2012, Flyboard is the original hydroflyer. Taking water sports to new heights, the futuristic device is strapped to the user’s feet and connected to a jet ski by a hose. The power of the jet ski propels water through the hose, which then shoots out beneath the Flyboard, levitating daredevils up to 15 metres above the water. Flyboard Club Barcelona promises to have 95 percent of its clients flying within the first five minutes and, for maximum stunt double credentials, they’ll even teach you to do backflips. flyboard-barcelona.com
2. PADDLE SURFING
For a calmer aquatic experience, paddle surfing is the perfect option. Originating in Hawaii as an alternative way to surf when there was little swell, stand up paddle surfing has numerous health benefits and is relatively easy for anyone to do. Moloka’i Sup Center offers private lessons (starting at €60) and group lessons (starting at €30 per person) as well as hourly rentals. Its qualified instructors insist that the smooth seas of the Mediterranean make Barcelona the ideal spot to practise the sport. molokaisupcenter.com
3. KAYAKING
Created thousands of years ago by the Inuit people of the Arctic, kayaks were originally used for hunting on the inland rivers and coastal waters of the region. While modern kayaks differ from their ancient counterparts in almost every way, they continue to be a great means of travelling by water. Excursions Barcelona offers a family-friendly day trip to the Costa Brava, where participants of all skill levels can kayak by the rugged cliffs and coves of the area, and even have the opportunity to snorkel. A good mix of adventure and relaxation, the tour includes transportation, a professional guide and snacks on the beach for €70 per person. excursionsbarcelona.com
4. SAILING
Perhaps the best way to admire Barcelona’s coastline is from a boat. Sailing—while exhilarating, fun and a great workout—is not always as glamorous as you’d imagine. Learning to man a sailboat is hard work, and can get rough and smelly at times. Business Yachtclub Barcelona offers private sailing classes with expert skippers that show you the real deal, from setting sail and maneuvering in tight areas to anchoring, heaving to, sailing without a rudder and man overboard recovery. Classes can be adjusted to your schedule, but typically a course lasts two days, from 10.30am to 5.30pm, and costs €490. business-yachtclub.com
5. OPEN WATER SWIMMING
Dating back to 1810, when the British poet and politician Lord Byron swam several miles across the strait between Asia and Europe, open water swimming encompasses any form of swimming done in, you guessed it, open water. Vies Braves is a public network of ‘sea tracks’—each between 500 metres and two kilometres long—which provide a safe way for swimmers to explore the busy seas. So far there are 25 routes buoyed off from boats, from Sitges to Portbou on the French border. costabrava.viesbraves.com
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IN THE CITY
A PLACE OF MY OWN
FLIGHT SERVICE MANAGER ELIZABETH DUFFY HAS DECORATED HER ático IN THE EIXAMPLE WITH TOUCHES FROM HER TRAVELS TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE SAFE HAVEN
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ged 17, Elizabeth Duffy left the sleepy town of Motherwell in Scotland, where she was born and raised, for a worldwide adventure. While working at a duty free shop in Sydney to fund the next leg of her trip in Asia, she met someone who worked for an airline, commuting between Honolulu and Colorado. The idea of being paid to globe-trot was extremely enticing,
so Elizabeth applied for a job with Virgin Airlines. “That was 27 years ago!” she said. For eight years, Elizabeth lived a jetsetting lifestyle, commuting between London and Miami. However, when the relationship with her partner in Miami ended, she decided to leave America behind and live in London permanently. No longer used to the dark and dreary British winter, Elizabeth quickly realised that England was not the place for her either. “I had this light bulb moment when I was stuck in a traffic jam driving back from Ikea,” she explained. “I decided I’d had enough, I had to go and live somewhere else.” Regular flights to London and a warm, sunny climate were all she required from her new city—Barcelona fit the bill. Not one to waste time, fast forward three months and Elizabeth had rented out her London flat and booked a one-way flight to the Catalan capital. Elizabeth moved into her current Eixample ático in 2011 after spotting it on loquo.com. What attracted her to the place was the lengthy corridor, which stretches from the guest bedroom to the living room. “I’d always wanted a long hallway to line with pictures and string with lights.” Add the large terrace with sweeping views of Tibidabo on one side and Montjuïc on the other and it’s not hard to see why she quickly snapped it up.
The design of the flat has been largely influenced by Elizabeth’s travels. Pointing to a quirky copper mirror above the large wood-framed sofa in the living room, she explained, “I found that at a church garden sale in Miami over 18 years ago, and I’ve dragged it around with me ever since.” On the adjacent wall, Elizabeth has hung a framed photograph of a stunning sunset over El Parque Central in Havana, which she took herself. From ornate Moroccan lanterns to intricate Indian throws, an eclectic mix of objects are scattered all over the place, each with a story of its own. Elizabeth’s work as a flight service manager means coming home to a relaxing, cosy environment is essential to her. “I spend so much time on the move that when I come home, I like to put my suitcase away and totally disconnect,” she said. With scented candles, soft lighting and numerous blankets and cushions of different textures, the apartment has a mellow feel to it. As well as finding an apartment in a peaceful location, it was equally important for Elizabeth to have some outdoor space. “I love having friends over for parties and barbecues, particularly throughout the summer.” Overlooking the rooftops of the Eixample, the spacious terrace, furnished with wooden deck chairs, potted plants and fairy lights is great for entertaining guests.
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After renting this apartment for over six years, Elizabeth has decided it’s time to buy her own place. Unfortunately, her landlady isn’t willing to sell, so she will be leaving her beloved Eixample ático. When asked what she’ll miss most about living here, she said, “Aside from the terrace, I’m really going to miss this little bubble I’ve created around the apartment. I have a good relationship with the other tenants in the building, I know the waiters in the cafes downstairs, and I feel at home here—it’s my little barrio.” Considering the apartment itself, it’s clear why it will be difficult to leave behind. From the warm and inviting interior to the enviable outdoor space, Elizabeth has created a haven on high.
If you’ve made yourself an interesting home from home, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.
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HISTORY
BUILT FROM THE GRAVE LOCATION: PALAU DEL LLOCTINENT, PLAÇA DE SANT IU
TOMBSTONES FROM THE FORMER JEWISH CEMETERY ON MONTJUÏC WERE USED TO BUILD THIS 16THCENTURY PALACE IN THE GOTHIC QUARTER By Catherine Howley
T
he most tragic moment for the Jewish community of Barcelona occurred long before the expulsion of its people by the Catholic monarchs in 1492. In 1391, the city’s Jewish quarter, El Call, was attacked. Many of the 4,000 inhabitants were killed, and those who survived were forced to flee or convert to Christianity, marking a tragic end to the historic neighbourhood. Despite this attempt to eradicate Judaism from the city, some vestiges have managed to survive outside of the former Jewish district. One of the surprising remnants can be seen on the walls of the Palau del Lloctinent, situated between Plaça de Sant Iu and Plaça del Rei in the Gothic Quarter. Constructed in the mid-16th century, by order of Emperor Charles V, some of the stones used on the building’s facade have visible Hebrew inscriptions on them. They are tombstones from the former Jewish cemetery on Montjuïc. Once the cemetery was abandoned, material was taken from the site for use in construction. When the Jewish community disappeared, some members left behind debts, which their creditors demanded to collect. According to historian Jordi Casanova, the tombstones were highly valued as construction material, and since the cemetery was on royal property, the king allowed their use as payment for services and debts. The inscribed stones are best observed on the side of the converted palace that overlooks Plaça de Sant Iu, where street musicians often play. There are at least 10 stones from the old Jewish cemetery, many of which are located near the railing of the staircase. They’re not whole tombstones, rather fragments cut out to fit the walls, and it is for this reason that little meaning can be deciphered from the inscriptions. On some of the blocks the Hebrew writing is even upside down, a sign that the stone was treated as mere building material. In one of the best-preserved inscriptions the words ‘duel’, ‘lament’ and ‘Yosef’ have been detected, however it’s still a mystery who these tombstones belonged to or what relevant historical connections they may have to the previous inhabitants of El Call. Over time, the Jewish cemetery was forgotten. It wasn’t until excavations for the 1992 Olympic Games were underway that whole tombstones were unearthed—intact and in their original place. To date, over 60 reused stones from Montjuïc have been catalogued in various parts of the city, although the Palau del Lloctinent is where they are most visible. Local historians are convinced that more Hebrew-inscribed stones are yet to be discovered elsewhere.
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BEST OF
UP ON THE ROOFTOP
IN ITS SEVENTH YEAR, BARCELONA’S HOTEL TERRACE WEEK IS THE PERFECT EXCUSE TO HEAD TO THE TOP OF SOME OF THE CITY’S FINEST HOTELS AND TAKE IN THE PANORAMIC VIEWS FROM THEIR PRIVILEGED TERRACES COTTON HOUSE HOTEL
The Cotton House Hotel is located in the former headquarters of the Fundación Textil Algodonera (Cotton Textile Foundation), an emblematic 19th-century building in the neoclassical style. Built for a Catalan bourgeoisie family when the textile industry was at its height, it was sold in the middle of the 20th century to the Cotton Producers Guild, which established it as the main meeting point for its members. At the top of the hotel is a spacious 300m2 terrace defined by its lush vegetation. The terrace is an extension of the restaurant Batuar, named for the machine that pressed cotton to eliminate its impurities. From the time it opened in January 2015, after the completion of a major refurbishment of the building, the restaurant was not all that popular. That is, until it was reported that Mark Zuckerberg had dinner there with Gerard Piqué during the 2016 Mobile World Congress, and attendance quickly picked up. Gran via de leS CortS CatalaneS 670 MARRIOTT.COM
hotel neri
This exclusive boutique hotel is set in two historically aristocratic houses in the old Jewish quarter. With two separate terraces, it’s a great place to enjoy the summer nights. In the romantic square of Sant Felip Neri, shaded by acacias, one terrace preserves the original period charm of its location. On the fourth floor of the hotel, the other terrace, Roba Estesa, is an intimate space full of jasmine plants and soft lighting. Here, Hotel Neri organises concerts throughout the spring and summer, which combine jazz, blues, soul, Cuban rhythms and swing. See the complete ‘Let the good times roll’ programme on the hotel website. Sant Sever 5 HOTELNERI.COM
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Hotel Miramar Barcelona
Once the setting of graceful balls and royal banquets, Hotel Miramar is housed in an artfully restored palace from the Twenties. On the eastern side of Montjuïc, at the top of a steep cliff, the hotel’s grassy grounds offer a commanding panorama of the city and the Mediterranean. From its landscaped lawns, you can sneak into lesser-known retreats such as the Patio de los Naranjos (the orange trees that gave the courtyard its name were planted in the 15th century), and the Garden of Tipuanas that offers still better viewpoints from which to gawk. Façana Històrica, the hotel’s terrace, hosts live music performances every Friday and Saturday, June to October, from 9pm to 11pm. Plaça de CarloS ibáñez 3 HOTELMIRAMARBARCELONA.COM
H10 Cubik
Although the H10 Cubik is on the constantly congested Via Laietana, once you reach its Terraza Atik on the eighth floor, you’ll forget all about the traffic and crowds below. The terrace’s relaxed ambience is enhanced by comfortable yellow wicker chairs, tree ferns and a small vertical garden. With spectacular views of Barcelona Cathedral’s Gothic spires, it won’t really matter what you’re drinking or listening to on this rooftop, but the H10 Cubik does generally boast one of the busiest programmes during Hotel Terrace Week. Every event has limited seating, however, so make sure you get there early. via laietana 69 H10HOTELS.COM
Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona
Designed by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, Terrat, the Mandarin Oriental’s rooftop area, was part of the overall expansion of the hotel that took place a few years ago. Displayed like ornaments, wide, earth-tone loungers line the pool, which runs the length of the roof on the Passeig de Gràcia side. The classic, sleek styling continues throughout the space, where both the atmosphere and the service are world-class. With stunning 360 degree views of the city, guests can recline with a cocktail in the tropical-feeling Mimosa Garden, or let chef Gastón Acurio transport them to the furthest corners of his native Peru with dishes such as classic ceviche, spicy yuca balls and octopus anticucho. Terrat is open to the public every night this summer from 6pm to midnight. PG. de GràCia 38-40 MANDARINORIENTAL.COM
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ADVERTISING FEATURE
THE TERRACE
F
airmont Rey Juan Carlos I kicks off the summer season at THE TERRACE. The restaurant specialises in excellent grilled meat and fish served in a unique location. THE TERRACE will also be serving drinks from the Codorniu Wine Lounge, an exclusive space in Barcelona. Nestled in a charming, ivy-clad pergola overlooking the hotel garden and pool, THE TERRACE offers delicious drinks, fresh cocktails and the sommelier’s selection, focusing on local wines with international touches. The beer selection features handcrafted beer from Casa Dalmases, a project which promotes artisan and local beers with the aim to improve social integration. THE TERRACE is all about the best cuts of meat cooked a woodfired grill by the executive chef of Fairmont Barcelona, Claudio Aguirre. The menu has an enticing selection of rice dishes, as well as fresh meat and fish cooked before your eyes on the restaurant’s barbecue. A wide variety of cuts are available, including loin, tenderloin, T-bone steak, prime rib and sirloin steak. THE HEALTHY CHOICE: A wide selection of salads and exceptional salmorejo are also available, and vegetarians can opt for
the tofu and mushroom burger. The restaurant prides itself on its use of “local” ingredients from Fairmont Barcelona’s vegetable garden. Most of the dishes contain aromatic herbs that are grown on site at the restaurant. The terrace offers: REFRESHING DESSERTS: melon mojito, milk chocolate lingo, raspberry sabre (a surprise to the senses, mixing confit basil with sweet flan), smoothies and granizados. Ideal for lazy lunches and casual dinners, with a chilled vibe and relaxed holiday atmosphere, THE TERRACE has earned its reputation as an oasis set apart from the hustle and bustle of the city. THE WINE LOUNGE: Spanish wine under the sun…or the stars. Chic and relaxing area for outdoor leisure, with a refreshing selection of rosé wines which are perfect for the summer season. The wine list expresses a real passion for local wines and a strong oenological knowledge. The selection will take you on a trip through the regions and vineyards of Spain and Catalunya. An international selection is also available with wines from France, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia.
OPENING TIMES Open from Monday until Sunday. THE TERRACE Bar: 11.30am-12.30am Lunch: 12.30pm-4pm Dinner: 7.30pm-11pm
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CODORNIU WINE LOUNGE 11.30am-12.30am
RESERVATIONS +34 93 364 4040 bcn.restaurants @fairmont.com www.fairmont.com
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SHOPPING
Festival flair
BACKPACK €59.90 NICE THINGS nicethingspalomas.com
SUNGLASSES €115 PALENS palens.com
CAP €49 PINK DOLPHIN blockshop.es
FEEL THE GOOD VIBES FROM HEAD TO TOE FACIAL SUN CREAM €19.50 LABORATOIRES DE BIARRITZ adonianatur.com
BEAN BAG €115 WOOUF woouf.com
SANDALS €99.95 ALOHAS SANDALS alohassandals.es
EARRINGS €129 GAS BIJOUX bornisimo.com
T-SHIRT €50 SMOOOOTH CLOTHING smoooothclothing.com
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REPORT
THE CURSE OF
SUCCESS MANAGING MASS TOURISM IN BARCELONA IS A BALANCING ACT BETWEEN ECONOMIC GAIN AND CULTURAL PRESERVATION By Rosalind Bond
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ccording to respondents to last year’s Municipal Service Survey, tourism is the second most serious problem affecting Barcelona, after unemployment and work instability. While there are those who welcome the wealth and prestige that the activity brings, others are keen to see a decrease in the 30 million annual visitors to the city—a number that’s steadily increased from 1.7 million in 1990. With the aim of placing Barcelona at the forefront of tourism management, Ada Colau’s government has recently released a new Pla Estratègic de Turisme (Strategic Tourism Plan). There are some however, who accuse the Ajuntament of being anti-tourist and introducing measures that are little more than an attack on the sector. WHAT’S WRONG WITH TOURISM? On January 28, 2017, a demonstration against mass tourism was held on La Rambla, in which more than 60 local groups came together under the banner ‘Barcelona no està en venda’ (‘Barcelona is not for sale’). The movement claims that Barcelona is indeed for sale and that over the last 40 years the city has been turned into a big business. Activists speak of the shortage of housing, which has led
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such as Gràcia resident Ernesto González who compared the city centre to a “theme park”. Colom warns that if things continue the way they’re going, Barcelona could lose the very essence that makes it attractive and the market could therefore kill itself. Environmental concerns and overcrowding of public spaces are also key issues. Fifty-eight percent of visitors surveyed in the 2015 Perception of Tourism Survey said the amount of tourists was excessive in Barcelona, which is geographically small (101 km2) but has a high population density of 15,887 inhabitants per square kilometre. Mobility problems are rife, especially in areas of high tourist concentration such as the Sagrada Família. The Ajuntament’s recent move to regulate personal mobility vehicles, such as Segways and electric scooters, including where they can go and how fast, aims to address problems of coexistence in public spaces—one regulation that is sure to be welcomed by most. There are also underlying reasons for the sense of negativity towards tourists, which the Ajuntament’s diagnostic report on tourism attributes in part to the speed at which Barcelona became a tourist hub. It acknowledges that, despite the importance of tourism to the city, it’s still treated as an “alien and disruptive phenomenon”, with many citizens finding it hard to accept that they’ll never again live without the effects of tourism.
to soaring rent prices and local people being expelled from their own neighbourhoods—overall, Ciutat Vella has lost 11 percent of its population since 2007, with the Barri Gòtic alone losing a staggering 45 percent. According to the Ajuntament’s 2016 diagnostic report on tourism, the housing shortage is a direct result of blocks of flats being turned into hotels and tourist apartments. It’s not just local people who are being pushed out. Local businesses are also becoming vulnerable as they lose their clientele, and kitschy souvenir shops and bars are eagerly waiting to supersede them. What’s more, this isn’t necessarily a benefit for the tourists themselves. “Tourists don’t come here looking for souvenir shops,” said Agustí Colom, councillor for Employment, Business and Tourism. “What they come for are those 100-yearold shops, those emblematic establishments that are unique to Barcelona, but many of them are closing down and disappearing.” This highlights another issue: tourism may be destroying the very thing that people come to Barcelona for. Visitor Bri English said she came to Barcelona because “it’s known as a very singular city, with things to see and do that you won’t find anywhere else in the world”. However, with the loss of local businesses, Barcelona risks becoming homogenised. Some believe this is already happening,
WHAT’S RIGHT WITH TOURISM? A booming tourist industry has its upsides. According to the Estudio de opinión a la ciudadanía (Study of Citizen Opinions), 90 percent of respondents said they believed tourism was beneficial, although this figure falls drastically in areas of higher concentration, such as Ciutat Vella and Gràcia. Perhaps the most oft-cited upside is the 96 to 120 thousand jobs generated by the industry. Tourism also accounts for 14 percent of the city’s GDP and is what Fermín Villar, President of the association Amics de la Rambla (Friends of the Rambla), describes as “an undeniable economic motor”, with several economic upsides including the tourist tax (IEET), which is reinvested to maintain social services. Tourists also contribute to the local economy by spending money in local businesses, while money paid to visit cultural sites contributes to their upkeep—a particular example being the Sagrada Família, whose construction is largely funded by its entrance fee. The Ajuntament’s diagnosis, however, warns against relying too heavily on this sector: “In dynamic cities with advanced economies, tourism is present [...] but it isn’t the only sector. The supremacy of one sector over others brings negative effects and risks”. Not all the upsides to tourism are economic. It also has a revitalising effect, encouraging the celebration and preservation of local festivals and cultural events, as well as attracting new events along the same lines. González talks about how Barcelona’s popularity has put the city on the map, making it a preferred destination for tech events, such as the Mobile World Congress, and many music and cultural festivals, such as Primavera Sound. “Tourism has many positives,” agreed retired resident Julià Fernández Chinchilla, “the first being new connections created between people and a marriage of different cultures. I find the mixture of cultures that results from so many people travelling in the 21st century fascinating.” WHAT IS THE CITY COUNCIL DOING ABOUT IT? The Ajuntament is planning to take a more hands-on approach to tackle the impact of mass tourism. “Barcelona was once the leader in promotion, now it’s becoming the leader in governance,” stated Colom. To this end, the Consell de Turisme i Ciutat has been created to develop recommendations for policy, while the Ajuntament has developed the Strategic Tourism Plan 2020, which aims to provide a road map for tourism in the city over the next few years. Prior to drawing up this plan, the Ajuntament carried out an in-depth diagnosis, which identified several areas for improvement as well as committing to a vision for tourism. According to this, by 2020, Barcelona will continue to be one of the main tourist cities in the world, where citizens recognise
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TOURISM in Barcelona 2014 37,559,044 passengers +6.7% from the previous year
X Tourism may be destroying the very thing that people come to Barcelona for
h
PASSENGER VOLUME at El Prat Airport
R
2015 39,711,276 passengers +5.7% from the previous year
2016 44,154,693 passengers
+11.2% from the previous year
X
visitors of all types as temporary citizens and not intruders. Rather than there being spaces exclusively for tourists, visitors will be an integral part of the city, and tourism will contribute to the quality of life of Barcelona residents. The plan covers a far-reaching range of issues, such as the need for an official body that monitors tourism to inform policy decisions, and a marketing strategy that manages people’s expectations about the city before they arrive. It also includes proposals to tackle the low salaries and job precarity that blight the industry, with the aim of redistributing the wealth generated by tourism. Working with the Instituto de Turismo Responsable (Responsible Tourism Institute), Colom explained that the Ajuntament is creating a Biosphere-Barcelona certification that will position social and labour practices as also being key to the sustainability of the city. Turisme de Barcelona will then use this certification to encourage different establishments to move towards quality jobs and dignified salaries for employees within the sector.
MMMMMM PASSENGERS FROM cruise ships
Within the strategic plan is yet another plan, the Pla Especial Urbanístic d'Allotjaments Turístics (Special Urban Plan for Tourist Accommodation) (PEUAT). This aims to tackle the shortage of housing where there has been an increase in tourist accommodation by establishing three zones in the city. The first zone—Hostafrancs, Sant Antoni, the centre, Vila Olímpica and Poblenou—is earmarked for a decrease in tourist accommodation. No new accommodation can open in this area and, if any closes, none can open to replace it. In the second zone, moving further afield, the amount of tourist accommodation is to be maintained—no new accommodation can open, but if one closes a new one can replace it. In the final zone, an increase in the amount of accommodation is allowed. This plan is an example of the general aim to decentralise tourism so the over-saturated zones can get some respite. Hand-in-hand with this vision is the Barcelona és molt més (Barcelona is much more) campaign, which aims to encourage visitors to venture out of the city of Barcelona and explore the province. Parallel to the Strategic Tourism Plan 2020 is a plan to eliminate illegal tourist flats. This focuses on finding and closing down tourist accommodations that are operating without a proper licence—last year 615 such apartments were shut down. Illegal tourist flats are not the only ones being targeted, however, with the Ajuntament planning to implement a higher property tax (IBI) on legal lets because they too are used to make a profit. WHAT DO PEOPLE THINK? With so many interests at stake, the Ajuntament is struggling to please everyone. The Association of Barcelona Tourist Apartments (APARTUR) is furious about the rise in property tax, and feels that the sector, which redistributes the profits of tourism to thousands of small proprietors, is being unfairly targeted. APARTUR and the Catalan Federation of Tourist Flats (FEDERATUR) believe that these punitive measures will simply generate more illegality and they would even consider going to court to stop this tax increase. The measure would see visitors who stay in tourist flats pay a comparable level of tax to those who stay in luxury hotels. “We are facing a meaningless measure that goes against family tourism,” argued Enrique Alcántara, President of APARTUR.
L F r
2015 2,541,373 passengers
2016 2,681,368 passengers
+5.5% from the previous year
IN 2016 BARCELONA HOSTED 9,065,650 TOURISTS in its hotels
+9.2% from the previous year
>
584,468 TOURISTS in guesthouses
(including motels, inns, guesthouses) +21% from the previous year
211,553 TOURISTS in tourist apartments
+0.9% from the previous year
19,162,580 OVERNIGHT STAYS
in Barcelona hotels
+8.5% from the previous year
TOURISM ACCOUNTS FOR 14% of the city’s GDP GDP
*all stats from Barcelona Turisme
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Photo by Lewis Gregory
Some groups take more issue with PEUAT. In Villar’s opinion, the problem with PEUAT is that it is not only against tourism, but will result in less competition, risking an increase in prices and a decrease in quality. Villar does concede, however, that the Ajuntament has modified its initial position on tourism and has stopped talking about reducing the numbers. Others are upset that the Ajuntament is not talking about reducing the amount of tourists. In their document “Why we’re saying no to PEUAT”, the Moviment Popular de Gràcia explains that PEUAT doesn’t propose a framework of regulation and decrease that would ensure neighbourhoods don’t become prey to big tourist capital. It goes on to lament that PEUAT’s regulated zones will simply spread touristic pressure from the centre to the periphery. Furthermore, it’s just the lower part of Gràcia’s old town that will be regulated in a relatively effective way whereas other areas such as Camp d’en Grassot i Gràcia Nova will be gobbled up by hotel groups. PEUAT sees a risk of this particular area becoming a corridor between Park Güell and the Sagrada Família, resulting in the ousting of local people. So many conflicting viewpoints create a fine line that the Ajuntament must tread. Accused by some of acting against tourism and others of not doing enough, the Ajuntament is keen to stress that “Barcelona is and will continue to be a tourist city”, while also taking steps to reduce the impact of tourism on the city and its residents. As Colom said, “If we manage to reduce the impact of tourism, we can have less backlash with the same volume of visitors.” It sounds like the ideal solution, but is it really possible?
THE CONSCIENTIOUS TOURIST’S GUIDE It’s not just the government’s responsibility to reduce the impact of mass tourism, individual visitors can help too. Here are some tips for your friends and family when they visit, or to use yourself when visiting other cities with an increasing number of tourists
DON’T STAY IN UNLICENSED TOURIST ACCOMMODATIONS: You won’t be contributing to the local economy by paying a tourist tax, instead you’ll be contributing to a shortage of housing that drives up rent for residents. Meet. barcelona.cat offers a tool that allows you to check if an address is licensed. If you believe you’ve stayed in an unlicensed flat, or that there’s one operating in your building, there’s a place on the website to report it.
STAY IN AN ACCOMMODATION OUTSIDE OF THE MOST TOURIST-HEAVY AREAS: This will help to alleviate the pressure in the most crowded areas of the city while bringing your tourist money to places that don’t normally benefit. You may even discover some hidden gems while you’re at it.
DON’T FOLLOW THE CROWD: Consider travelling in the off season to spread the burden of tourism evenly throughout the year.
AVOID ALL-INCLUSIVE PACKAGES: Instead of spending all your time and money in one place, frequent various locally-owned restaurants, cafes and bars. Family-run businesses always have an interesting history, and the people you’ll interact with tend to be more welcoming and grateful for your business. BUY LOCAL: Keep an eye out for artisan souvenirs made locally, something with a real story behind it that you can take home with you, and avoid mass-produced souvenirs.
STEP OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Do research before your trip and ask locals for recommendations of sites, museums, restaurants, bars and neighbourhoods to visit. You’re more likely to discover the ‘true’ Barcelona this way, and you’ll be spending your money in places that appreciate (and need) it more.
BEHAVE CONSIDERATELY: Don’t make too much noise at night, throw your litter in the bin and remember that not everyone is on holiday.
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DÍA ORWELL
ON JULY 5TH BARCELONA WILL COMMEMORATE GEORGE ORWELL AND HIS EFFORTS TO QUELL SOCIAL INJUSTICE By Catherine Howley
O
n December 26, 1936, Eric Arthur Blair, known to most as author George Orwell, stepped off the train at Estació de França in Barcelona. He would spend the next six months travelling between the regions of Catalunya and Aragon in a fight against fascism, an experience that would inspire his 1938 novel Homage to Catalonia. The premise of the novel—the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War—spurred Orwell’s decision to move to Spain. Defining himself as a socialist, he had a vague notion of writing a piece on the events unfolding in the country. However, it was only a matter of days before he traded his pen for a weapon and joined a militia group in defense of the Second Spanish Republic against Franco and his Nationalist forces. Orwell’s first impressions of Barcelona would stay with him. An anti-fascist stronghold for most of the war, the city had become a reflection of the complex factions of the left. United in battle against Franco, they were divided in their concept of an ideal society—those who supported the Republican government and those who idealised revolution. Upon his arrival, Barcelona was in the midst of what was essentially an anarchist revolution, a fervour which had gripped the Catalan capital at the onset of the war. He recalls his first walk up Las Ramblas in Homage to Catalonia:
“It was the first time I had ever been in a town where the working class was in the saddle. Practically every building of any size had been seized by the workers and was draped with red flags or with the red and black flag of the Anarchists, […] every shop and café had an inscription saying that it had been collectivised.” Within a few weeks the author would leave behind revolutionary Barcelona for the trenches in Aragon. The militia he joined, more or less by accident, was that of the POUM (the Workers’ Party of Marxist Unification), a rather small group of anti-Stalinist revolutionaries. He was sent to the front line near the towns of
Zaragoza and Huesca where he spent the next few months braving the cold and miserable conditions in the name of anti-fascism. Orwell returned to Barcelona in May 1937, by which time the city had changed considerably. Underlying tensions were coming to a head, and on May 3rd a struggle between anarchists and the Catalan police exploded into five days of vicious infighting amongst the leftist factions. The revolutionary experiment would come to a tragic end as the local government reclaimed total control of the city. Having survived the street fighting, the author returned to the front, only to be shot through the neck 10 days later by a Francoist sniper—the bullet just missed his carotid artery. Although a lucky escape, it took Orwell weeks of recuperation before he could return to Barcelona. This would be his last time in the city, and once again he narrowly escaped with his life. Blamed for the infighting in May, the POUM was declared an illegal organisation. Now a fugitive in the city, and after weeks of hiding, Orwell finally fled back to England. Once home, he began to write a raw and honest personal account of his observations and experiences of the Spanish Civil War, which would become Homage to Catalonia. Not just a wartime journal, the book addresses the lies, manipulation and political tyranny from both the right and the left that he witnessed, no doubt laying the groundwork for his most celebrated work, 1984 (1949). Every year the city of Barcelona makes a point of commemorating George Orwell and his passion for overcoming social injustice. To mark the fifth edition of Día Orwell, local historians will pay homage to the author by offering free tours retracing his steps in Barcelona. These routes through Orwell’s Barcelona offer a different perspective on the Barcelona we live in today. Día Orwell is on July 5th this year. Tours begin at 4.30pm, last an hour and a half, and are offered in English, Spanish and Catalan. As places are limited, it is necessary to pre-book at diaorwell.com. For more tours about Orwell and the Spanish Civil War throughout the year, email info@spanishcivilwartours.com.
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SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL GUIDE AS PRIMAVERA SOUND MARKS THE BEGINNING OF FESTIVAL SEASON, WE LOOK AT BARCELONA AND BEYOND FOR MORE MUSICALITY TO COME By Priyankaa Joshi
SÓNAR sonar.es
Born out of the desire to create a meeting point for electronic music fans in Barcelona, friends Ricard Robles, Enric Palau and Sergi Caballero launched Sónar in 1994, as ‘The International Festival of Advanced Music and Multimedia Art’. Over 23 years, Sónar has built an international reputation thanks to its innovative ethos and dynamic lineup of boundary-pushing artists. The first edition featured Mixmaster Morris and Laurent Garnier, who attracted a modest crowd of around 6,000. Now one of the main events on Spain’s festival calendar along with Primavera Sound, Sónar has grown to more than 115,000 visitors from 101 countries. And the Sónar brand is expanding across the globe, with events in a host of urban locations including Sao Paulo, Reykjavik and Tokyo. Over the years, iconic artists such as the Beastie Boys, M.I.A., The Chemical Brothers and Björk, who is set to return this year, have graced Sónar stages. For Georgia Taglietti, head of communications, the most memorable performances were Daft Punk in 1997, before their signature helmets (it was their very first Spanish show), and Jimi Tenor in 1998, who made his entrance on horseback. Meanwhile regular Sónar attendee Alex Baker, 36, from Bristol, said his favourite moment was “witnessing Massive Attack’s mind-blowing rendition of ‘Teardrop’ at the 2014 edition, with thousands of people singing along at the top of their lungs”. The festival is split between Sónar by Day, which gives up-andcoming artists and producers the chance to showcase their music,
and Sónar by Night, where revellers can enjoy popular acts on a variety of indoor and outdoor stages. Sónar by Night promises a raucous party atmosphere whereas Sónar by Day is a more laidback experience. Sónar has plenty more to offer than just music. According to Taglietti, “There is an emphasis on technology and electronic culture. In fact, the daytime has a very important educational factor.” In 2013, the organisers created Sónar+D—signifying research and development (r+D)—as a space for creative communities to exchange ideas and tools. Running parallel to Sónar by Day, this year’s event includes songwriting workshops, exhibitions of new technologies and networking events. There will also be a talk and virtual reality exhibition presented by Björk. Although not officially linked to the festival, a whole host of offweek parties fill the city’s rooftop terraces, bars and nightclubs, providing the opportunity for those not attending Sónar to soak up the party atmosphere. When: June 15th-17th Where: Fira Barcelona Gran Via and Fira Montjuïc How much: €180 (day, night and Sónar+D), €125 (2-night ticket), €54 (day), €72 (night) Lineup: Justice, Nicolas Jaar, Nina Kraviz, Fat Freddy’s Drop, De La Soul, Eric Prydz, Carl Craig, Seth Troxler & Tiga
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DGTL bcn.dgtl.nl
Already a massive success in Amsterdam, the Dutch festival brand brought its industrial concept to Barcelona for the first time in 2015. Combining electronic music, outlandish stage production and innovative art installations, the futuristic festival was set up to fill a void in Barcelona’s summer festival calendar, which is usually left high and dry in mid-July after Cruïlla. The first edition saw a carefully curated lineup of big names including Maceo Plex, and local talent such as Paco Osuna, gathering 20,000 spectators. Although taking place in the same location as Primavera Sound— which makes use of the whole space with over a dozen stages— DGTL’s three stages make it a more intimate affair. “It’s less than a five-minute walk from one end of the site to the other,” explained Kit, 27, from Sweden. Music aside, the festival curates a range of conceptual art performances and installations as part of the DGTL art programme. This year’s event includes a toxic parade, an unusual walk-act featuring two dancing giant robots, a laser show and interactive light tunnels. Meanwhile, experimental lighting and stage design enhance the music, making for a multi-sensory experience. With a sustainability ethos at its core, DGTL strives to be as environmentally friendly as possible. Reusable hard plastic cups, renewable energy sources and the DGTL Trash Collective, encouraging festival-goers to recycle plastic waste into something new, are all present. At the DGTL revolution market, you’ll find a variety of sustainable products including organic cotton T-shirts, reclaimed wooden picture frames, and pots made from bound earth and moss. Once again, the organisers are taking it a step further by going 100 percent organic and meat-free, providing tasty veggie versions of classic street food dishes. Seventy-five percent of all vegetables used at the festival will come from the Kusturica agroecological farm, just half an hour from Barcelona. When: August 11th-12th Where: Parc del Fòrum How much: €89 (weekend), €60 (2-day ticket), €35 (1-day ticket Friday or Saturday) Lineup: Joy Orbision, Eats Everything, Solomun, Jeff Mills, Paco Osuna, Jackmaster
CRUÏLLA cruillabarcelona.com
Originating in Mataró in 2008 as a cycle of concerts, Cruïlla enjoyed immediate success, and in 2010 moved to Barcelona’s Parc del Fòrum as a three-day festival. Although not as well-known as its Barcelona counterparts, Cruïlla (meaning ‘crossroads’ in Catalan) has been rapidly growing as a broadspectrum festival, with a diverse programme of global artists and local talent alike. At the 2015 edition, jazz singer Jamie Cullum shared the bill with Compton-born rapper Kendrick Lamar, followed by Scottish rock band Franz Ferdinand. “I prefer Cruïlla to other, bigger Barcelona festivals because of its variety—you can enjoy different types of music in the span of a few hours,” said Barcelona resident Pau. The programme goes way beyond the music, with food trucks serving up cuisine from around the world, vintage markets, talks and workshops just as much a part of the Cruïlla experience as the music. This year there will be live graffiti art shows, teatasting sessions and acroyoga workshops. The festival also has plenty for families—last year’s event saw circus acts, ball pits and model-making workshops appease the children of festivalgoers. So if you’re looking for smaller crowds and a more mellow experience, Cruïlla may be your best bet. When: July 7th-9th Where: Parc del Fòrum How much: €120 (weekend), €72 (1-day ticket Friday or Saturday), €25 (Sunday) Lineup: Jamiroquai, The Lumineers, Pet Shop Boys, The Prodigy, Two Door Cinema Club, Ryan Adams
BARCELONA BEACH FESTIVAL bcnbeachfestival.com It’s all about sun, sea and electronic music at Barcelona Beach Festival (BBF). Now in its fourth year, this one-day extravaganza draws some of EDM’s biggest DJs, producers and artists to its two seaside stages. Organised by Live Nation Entertainment, also responsible for V Festival and Wireless (both in the UK), BBF hit the ground running, securing internationally renowned DJs David Guetta and Avicii in its first year. With the industrial architecture of the Platja del Fòrum and its coastal views serving as the backdrop, BBF is quickly becoming a key fixture on the electronic festival scene. Last year’s edition enticed over 30,000 guests to join the party. Generally attracting a younger crowd of tourists, students and locals, BBF is ideal for those wanting to rave until the early hours. When: July 16th Where: Platja del Fòrum and Parc de la Pau How much: €70.50 (general admission) Lineup: Armin Van Buuren, Kygo, Lost Frequencies, Hardwell, Dimitri Vegas & Like Mike
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FURTHER AFIELD BENICÀSSIM fiberfib.com
Often dubbed the Spanish version of Glastonbury, Benicàssim is back for its 23rd year, once again promising a stellar lineup of indie rock, pop and electronic artists. Over the years, big names such as Bob Dylan, Amy Winehouse, Muse and The Chemical Brothers have all made appearances. Located in the small port town of the same name, on the Costa del Azahar, the beachside festival takes place over four days whilst the campsite is open for nine, allowing visitors to extend their break and enjoy the surrounding landscape. Thanks to the combination of balmy weather, its coastal location and crowd-pleasing acts, the festival attracts a young, party-centric crowd, and the average patron is more likely to be from the UK than from Spain. The music doesn’t start until 7pm due to the hot weather, so attendees have all day to chill at the beach. In the evening, the site is transformed into a hub of activity with live music and DJ sets blaring from the various stages until 9am. Reminiscing about her favourite Benicàssim moment, Chloe, 24, from London, said, “It has to be when Arctic Monkeys played in 2013. They brought Miles Kane from the Last Shadow Puppets on stage for the encore and the crowd went wild.” Another memorable moment was when British rapper Dizzee Rascal stopped mid-song because he spotted a group of girls getting crushed in the audience and wanted to make sure they were OK. He proceeded to crowd-surf, and those who were present still recall the image of him suspended in the air on a bed of excited fans’ hands. Benicàssim prides itself on its meticulously planned productions, utilising multisensory light shows and quality sound systems. In addition to the music, the festival organisers curate a varied programme of art, theatre, cinema and fashion. Expect food trucks, silent discos and market stalls too. When: July 13th–16th Where: Benicàssim, Costa del Azahar How much: €149 (4-day ticket) Lineup: Red Hot Chili Peppers, The Weeknd, Kasabian, deadmau5, Bonobo
VIDA en.vidafestival.com
Just a 30-minute train ride from Barcelona, in the grounds of a neoclassical mansion dating back to 1574, Vida provides a dream festival landscape. Think sandy beaches, a fairytale forest and lush gardens. Although approaching its fourth year only, the festival has already made a name for itself thanks to its discerning lineup, beautiful woodland setting and magical atmosphere. Soak up the sunshine with a soundtrack of local and international talent at La Daurada Beach Club by day, before heading up to the masía to enjoy the evening performances. Past events included Primal Scream, The War on Drugs, Unknown Mortal Orchestra and Father John Misty, who delivered a particularly energetic show, falling to his knees in ecstasy at one point and jumping into the enthusiastic crowd midway through his set. While headliners take to the large Estrella Damm Stage, the smaller concerts take place in the enchanted forest, featuring a range of quirky stages. For example, the ‘Vaixell’ stage is perched on an old wooden boat, while ‘La cova’ is inspired by the acoustics of a cave, and the ‘Music Box’ is in the shape of a cube, with the outside covered in mirrors which camouflage the stage in its wooded surroundings. Among the hidden corners, which are tastefully illuminated with fairy lights and lanterns, you’ll stumble upon all sorts of happy surprises, from handmade markets to art installations and film screenings. An ideal festival for families, Vida has a large activities area for children with a programme of storytelling sessions, instrument-building workshops and circus acts to keep them entertained. While most festival-goers camp or ‘glamp’, there is also the option to get the train back to Barcelona as late at 3.30am on Friday and Saturday night.
Above Warpaint Below Dr. Dog
When: June 29th–July 2nd Where: Masia d’en Cabanyes, Vilanova i la Geltrú How much: €80 (4-day ticket), €100 (4-day ticket + camping) Lineup: Fleet Foxes, Phoenix, The Flaming Lips, Devendra Banhart, Warpaint, Erol Alkan, Dr. Dog, John Talabot
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SHOW YOUR SMILE, NOT YOUR BRACES INVISIBLE ORTHODONTICS LINGUAL BRACES / INVISALIGN Dr. Madeleine Smit English and French - speaking Medical and Dental Centre Free diagnosis and treatment plan. Call 932 529 729 Or book online turoparkmedical.com contact@turoparkmedical.com
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ISMAEL SMITH, THE BEAUTY AND THE MONSTERS (MNAC JUNE 23RD-SEPTEMBER 17TH)
WHAT’S ON
THE BEST OF THE MONTH AHEAD
5/23/17 12:08 PM
music MULTILINGUAL MELODIES Rupa & the apRil fishes. sala apOlO. NOu De la RaMBla 113. JuNe 29th.
Rupa and the April Fishes’ multilingual songs cross cultures and genres, putting a fresh twist on everything from politically charged punk to the eloquent French chanson. Lead vocalist Rupa Marya slips seamlessly between French, English, Hindi and Spanish, capturing audiences worldwide, and the band’s diverse sounds are sometimes described as mestizo—a word used in Latin America to describe people of mixed ancestry. Raised in San Francisco by Indian parents, the multicultural influence of Marya’s upbringing shines through in her musical style. When she isn’t singing, she devotes time to being a doctor and a social activist, and even to making headlines over court battles. In 2015, Marya won a case against Warner Music Group over the rights to ‘Happy Birthday’, from which Warner was reportedly making over $2 billion a year. She successfully argued that the song was part of the public domain and therefore royalties should not have to be paid. An unstoppable force in music as well as politics, Rupa and the April Fishes are touring in support of their most recent album, Oval (2015), which fuses a plethora of instruments, including the accordion, violin and saxophone, together with Marya’s unmistakable vocals, producing all the alluring qualities expected from the San Fran crew. sala-apolo.com
SINGING FOR CHANGE BaRCelONa eNGlish ChOiR. l’auDitORi. lepaNt 150. JuNe 18th. Back in the city after a weekend in Montseny recording its upcoming music video, the Barcelona English Choir is keeping busy. This June, the choir will showcase its talents at L’Auditori in order to raise money for the charity ASSÍS Centre d’Acollida, a local shelter that focuses on empowering the homeless. Choir director Ed Aldcroft explained his decision to support this particular charity: “Homelessness is a big problem in Barcelona, one that we see every day when walking through the streets of the city. I think often people aren’t sure of the best way to help, so I wanted to choose a charity that provided support on every level to those without a home—from front line assistance such as clothes and food, to housing, employment and counselling to help people make a fresh start.” With tickets priced at only €10, its show on the 18th is a great way to escape the July heat whilst helping those who can’t. The venue seats an impressive 1,500 spectators, which the choir is hoping to fill. “We’ve already sold nearly 1,000 tickets, but I’d love for us to sell out this year, as we have in the past.” Performing in a bigger space will not only give the 202-person choir more elbow room on stage, but it will also allow for more money to be raised. The international mix of vocalists will take on an eclectic range of music from artists including Annie Lennox, Radiohead, Beyoncé, Joy Division, Nina Simone, Queen, Michael Jackson and Björk, ensuring all tastes are catered to. auditori.cat
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KEEP ON KEEPING ON pRiMal sCReaM. RaZZMataZZ. paMplONa 88. JuNe 11th. Primal Scream spent the best part of their 34-year career in a haze of class A drugs and alcohol, while somehow managing to produce quality records. So how does a band like this fare when mind-altering substances are removed from the equation? They fare pretty well actually, maybe even better than before. “We [still] like making druggy-sounding, psychedelic music,” explained frontman Bobby Gillespie in an interview with The Telegraph. “It’s just that since we stopped taking drugs we got better at it.” Now nine years clean, the band have released their 11th album, Chaosmosis (2016), with vocal cameos from Sky Ferreira and HAIM. The title was taken from a book by French philosopher Félix Guattari that focuses on subjectivity and how we are conditioned by what surrounds us. More introspective in its lyrical content and slightly ruminative in nature, the experimentalism and creativity that defines Primal Scream lives on in this album. Although the quality of Chaosmosis is indisputable, it can’t hold a candle to their epic album Screamadelica (1991), which launched them into rock and roll fame in the early Nineties and still rings true for new generations of music lovers. But at 54, Gillespie’s swagger is still going strong along with his unquestionable ability to make a solid, hypnotising album with or without narcotics. salarazzmatazz.
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music
BACK ON TRACK THE CRANBERRIES. AUDITORI FÒRUM. PLAÇA LEONARDO DA VINCI 11-14. JUNE 4TH. After a tumultuous few months of publicity following lead singer Dolores O’Riordan’s divorce and an incident of air-rage that led to her being detained, it seems as though things are calming down a bit for the Irish rockers. Taking their latest unplugged album on the road, The Cranberries are back in the media for all the right reasons. Something Else (2017) features re-recorded versions of many of their best-loved songs, including ‘Linger’ and ‘Zombie’, along with three new tracks. If that’s not enough to get your musical juices flowing, the album has been recorded in collaboration with the Irish Chamber Orchestra. Known for its outstanding musicianship and ability to interpret some of time’s most innovative compositions, the Limerick-based orchestra have shown that perfection can be improved upon. Its arrangements contribute an enchanting element which perfectly complements O’Riordan’s haunting vocals. The acoustics of Barcelona’s Auditori Fòrum will graciously lend themselves to the melange of strings juxtaposed with one of the most evocative voices to ever come out of the Irish music scene. Also playing as part of Festival Pedralbes, fans have two opportunities to catch the band in action this month. ccib.es
A WEST COAST STORY
THE BEACH BOYS. JARDINS PALAU REIAL PEDRALBES. AVDA. DIAGONAL 686. JUNE 20TH. More than 50 years after the release of their debut studio album, Surfin’ Safari (1962), and The Beach Boys are still bringing the same surfy sounds to their generation-spanning fans. To mark a half-century of musical excellence, the surviving members of the band have reunited and will perform in Barcelona as part of the Festival Pedralbes, with a celebration befitting their remarkable and enduring legacy. “Fifty years ago, we started something very big, so now we’re celebrating together in a very big way,” explained Brian Wilson, the group’s co-founder and lead singer, who has helped make this funky bunch a timeless part of American musical culture. They will sing songs from their 29th studio album, That’s Why God Made The Radio (2012), which Wilson dedicated to the memory of his two brothers (Carl and Dennis), as well as older classics to give the audience a firsthand experience of those Californian ‘Good Vibrations’. festivalpedralbes.com
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IN CONCERT
1st. David Alegret Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 2nd. Life of Agony Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. La Bella Durmiente + Vértigo Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 4th. The Cranberries Auditori Fòrum. Plaça Leonardo da Vinci 11-14. 5th. Rufus Wainwright Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 8th. Cesk Freixas BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 8th. Kool & the Gang Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 9th. EnZel Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 9th. Gabriel Sopeña BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 10th. Delafé Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 11th. Primal Scream Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 12th. American Football Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 14th. HIM Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 15th. Orquesta Mondragón BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 16th. David Bisbal Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 18th. Belle and Sebastian Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 18th. Barcelona English Choir L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 20th. The Beach Boys Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 21st. Tony Bennett Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 22nd. Agnes Obel BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 26th. Kris Kristofferson Jardins de Pedralbes. Diagonal 686. 27th. Pittsburgh Youth Symphony Orchestra Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 28th. Joaquín Sabina Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.
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art ENO 360° Lightforms/soundforms. Arts sAntA mònicA. LA rAmbLA 7. June 13th-october 1st. Known primarily as the ‘father of ambient music’, as a close collaborator of David Bowie and as the producer of albums by the Talking Heads, U2 and Coldplay, Brian Eno is also a brilliant, multifaceted artist and writer. For the first time in a single exhibition, ‘Lightforms/Soundforms’ combines all aspects of Eno’s work: installations, music, video art, and textual and graphic pieces. His classic piece of music, ‘The Quiet Club’, and his more recent visual art project ‘Light Paintings’ will be featured alongside a new installation that will occupy the entire Max Cahner cloister at Arts Santa Mònica. Mistaken Memories of Medieval Manhattan (19801981) and Slow Waves (1980-1982) will also be shown to illustrate Eno’s engagement with video art in the Eighties. Organised in collaboration with Sonar and Sonar+D, the show is not intended as a linear journey through the artist’s works but rather as a collection of spaces that lack a narrative thread and are united by sound and the evolution of different pieces. artssantamonica.gencat.cat
VIRTUAL REALITY ENVIRONMENT bJörk digitAL. cccb. montALegre 5. June 14th-september 24th. After travelling to cities such as Tokyo, Sydney, Reykjavik and Los Angeles, this unconventional exhibition comes to Barcelona. Divided into different sections, ‘Björk Digital’ is an immersive virtual reality environment that presents digital and video works made by Icelandic artist Björk in collaboration with the world’s best programmers and visual artists. The project is a combination of performance, film, installation and video, along with several audiovisual pieces produced using the latest VR technology. Black Lake (2015), Björk’s ground-breaking, immersive film that captures panoramic views of the highlands of Iceland, was commissioned by New York’s MoMA and will be shown at the CCCB as part of the larger programme tracing Björk’s 24-year career. cccb.org
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REVIEW
GOD BLESS AMERICA Will Shank visits Martha Rosler’s exhibition at the MACBA. Until October 15th.
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rving Berlin’s ‘God Bless America’ plays in the tinny soundtrack of a brief video that sets the tone for the exhibition, wherein an animated toy soldier with a trumpet turns out to be a paraplegic. Ta-dumdum—short and sweet, the artist delivers the ironic musical message in a one-two punch. She’s American and she’s proud of it, but Martha Rosler isn’t taking anybody’s crap. Her exhibition at the MACBA occupies only two top-floor galleries, but they are jam-packed with Rosler’s anger, humour and intelligent criticism of the twists and turns of 20th-century US-American society and the right-wing politics of various regimes of the country. The artist and writer, born in 1943 and longtime faculty member of Rutgers, works with mixed media, but the concise presentation here focuses on videos selected from the MACBA’s permanent collection. It is also related to the 2017 LOOP video festival. Her ‘Semiotics of the Kitchen’ is a much-imitated (in a stop-action Barbie doll parody, for instance) seminal feminist work from 1975. Posing as a television performer, the deadpan Rosler displays to the camera various kitchen objects as illustrations for the alphabet, becoming increasingly agitated as the semiotics lesson progresses.
She’s American and she’s proud of it, but Martha Rosler isn’t taking anybody’s crap Whether juxtaposing beautiful fields of flowers in southern California with the oppressed and illegal Mexicans who harvest them, or exploring the politics of a notorious court case in which a surrogate mother fought for her rights to retain her baby, Rosler’s observations overflow with irony. Her tendency to layer the written word with a spoken soundtrack (or in some cases several), which are both in conflict with the rapid-fire editing of her visuals, seem intended to keep the viewer in a state of disorientation and agitation. Her ‘Martha Rosler Reads Vogue’ (1982) is an unsettling and disjointed narrative about the use of the female body as an object in a patriarchal society, coupled with her criticism of the oppressive conditions of textile workers that make high fashion possible for the privileged classes. It is all presented as a tongue-in-cheek voice-over by the artist herself, who thumbs through a copy of the slick magazine, tracing favourite shapes with her finger, as she provides an insane narrative about glamour, makeup and oral sex with Condé Nast, and finally applies too much rouge to her own cheeks. Rosler’s work still resonates for a 21st-century audience that has not become accustomed to the injustices inflicted on us by tyrannical governmental institutions. One of her videos from 1985 (about the US spreading false information about Nicaragua) is called ‘If It’s Too Bad to Be True, It Could Be DISINFORMATION’. Now more than ever.
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art OUTSIDE THE MAINSTREAM isMAel sMith, the BeAuty And the Monsters. MnAC. PArC de MontJuïC. June 23rd-sePteMBer 17th. This exhibition traces the artistic trajectory of Barcelonaborn Ismael Smith, bringing together works from the various disciplines in which he practised. Smith was a famous figure in Catalunya for the first 15 years of his career, from 1903, when he won his first prize in Barcelona at the age of 17, to 1919, when he relocated to the US. Branching out from the predominant movement of his time, Noucentisme, Smith embraced a transgressive style characterised by grotesque distortions, sexual ambiguity and satirical provocations. For these reasons, the artist’s work was cast aside and ignored for the better part of the 20th century. It wasn’t until the Eighties, after his death, that his work was reconsidered and recognised for its originality and worth. Presenting about 70 sculptures, 50 engravings, more than 150 drawings, a set of jewellery and a complete book-plates collection, the display at the MNAC is a comprehensive showcase of Smith’s artistic talent. museunacional.cat
MUSEUM COLLECTION MACBA ColleCtion 31. MACBA. PlAçA dels Àngels 1. June 17th-August 28th. The MACBA’s identity and its capacity to interact with the present are established in this collection, which explores three main themes— experience, time and conflict. Offering a series of artistic itineraries, the works on display question various forms of conflict in today’s world, while simultaneously reflecting on art’s potential for interrogating reality. The exhibition, curated by Ferran Barenblit and Antònia Maria Perelló, is comprised of 85 works by 50 international artists of various generations. As a whole, the collection represents a chronological period of over five decades, from 1959 to 2014. Visitors will have access to Cildo Meireles’ multisensory installation, as well as the chance to browse more than 100 photos by Hans-Peter Feldman, contemplate the social paradoxes explored by Adrian Melis and more. macba.cat
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EXHIBITIONS
OPENINGS FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Allan Sekula. Sísif col•lectiu A monographic exhibition of photographs by Allan Sekula, analysing the impact of maritime economics on globalisation during the Nineties. Opening June 14th. Aragó 255. FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ The Way Things Do This exhibition celebrates the 30th anniversary of The Way Things Go (1987), the iconic film by the Swiss duo Peter Fischli and David Weiss. Opening June 30th. Parc de Montjuïc.
LAST CHANCE PALAU ROBERT A Portrait of Politics. Social and Political News in Cartoons This show looks back at the social and political news of the last 40 years as portrayed in the satirical work of 48 cartoonists. Until June 11th. Pg. de Gràcia 107. PALAU DE LA VIRREINA Le Mie Parole An exhibition of the complete oeuvre of Ketty La Rocca, whose work explores performance, collage and video art. Until June 18th. La Rambla 99. CAIXAFORUM The Pillars of Europe. The Middle Ages at the British Museum Highlighting political changes, great artistic talents and intellectual progress through unique pieces from the British Museum, this exhibition reflects the life in towns and cities during the Middle Ages. Until June 18th. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. FUNDACIÓ SUÑOL ACT 37: Marc Larré. De aquellas fotos estos barros With this project, Barcelona-born artist Marc Larré turns disciplinary logic on its head—photography refers to sculpture, and sculpture takes on the typical qualities of a photograph. Until June 23rd. Pg. de Gràcia 98. MUSEU PICASSO Picasso. Retrats This collection examines the element of caricature in Picasso’s portraits. Until June 25th. Montcada 15-23.
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misc DANCING EGGS
L’Ou COm BaLLa. BarCeLOna City Centre. June 15th. While on Easter Sunday, eggs are often hidden, on the Feast of Corpus Christi, they are put on display. Every year, 60 days after Easter Sunday, plain white eggs are placed over the water jets of fountains in courtyards and cloisters around Barcelona’s city centre. The eggs start to turn in the water without falling, and appear to dance. Some think the eggs represent the body of Christ, while others believe their constant motion in the fountain represents the cyclical nature of life. Although the exact origins of L’Ou Com Balla are unknown, the tradition began sometime before the 17th century in the cloister of the Barcelona Cathedral, where the largest celebration still takes place today. This year, dancing eggs can be seen at sites such as Palau Requesens, the Church of Santa Anna and the gardens of the Museu Frederic Marès. All of the fountains will also be adorned with flowers, fruits and other decorations.
DESIGN, CREATE, INNOVATE
BarCeLOna Design Week. VariOus Venues. June 6th-14th. After 10 successful years, Barcelona Design Week has firmly established itself as one of the major design weeks on the international calendar. The annual event attracts creative professionals and businesses as well as key members of the design community, who are eager to learn about new industry trends and to share knowledge and projects on a wide range of topics. This year’s theme is ‘Transforming Society’, and the week’s programme will focus on using design to change the world. Workshops include practical sessions about the real value of design, co-creation in the public sector, storytelling for sustainability, and branded content. There will also be hands-on activities such as food design, taught by master chocolatier David Pallàs and Papila, a design studio specialised in food, and cocktail-making under the instruction of expert bartenders from the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Besides workshops, participants can attend roundtable discussions, presentations, exhibitions, installations and networking events. barcelonadesignweek.com
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CELEBRATE THE SUMMER SOLSTICE
VerBena De sant JOan. June 23rD-24th. The festival of Sant Joan has many names, but in Catalunya it’s often called the ‘Nit de Foc’. It’s a night of fire, petardos, sparklers, bonfires on the beach, coca de Sant Joan and plenty of cava—possibly the biggest, and certainly the noisiest, party of the year. In Barcelona, the festivities officially begin in Plaça Sant Jaume, where the flame of Canigò is passed between city authorities and representatives of over 350 municipalities. The tradition of the flame of Canigò started in 1955 as a symbol of Catalan culture, inspired by the poem ‘Canigó’ by the famous Catalan poet Verdaguer. The flame continues to burn throughout the night and is used to light nearly 3,000 bonfires across the region. The celebration that follows attracts more than 70,000 participants, and those who choose to stay out until sunrise will be happy to know that the following day is a public holiday, giving them plenty of time to recover.
SHOW YOUR PRIDE
PriDe BarCeLOna. mOLL De La Fusta. June 28th-JuLy 9th. Pride week is celebrated all over the world, but PRIDE Barcelona has a flair of its own. In its 10th year, PRIDE Barcelona 2017 kicks off on June 28th in Plaça Universitat, when the festival’s activities will be announced in detail. On July 7th and 8th, head to Moll de la Fusta where PRIDE’s main stage and village will be set up. The whole family is invited to attend workshops, lectures and the drag queen show. The Pride Parade will take place on the 8th. Starting in Plaça Espanya, people from all over the world will march alongside floats and performers in a sea of rainbow colours, down Avinguda del Paral•lel to the pier at Moll de la Fusta, as part of one of the largest LGBTI festivals in the Mediterranean. pridebarcelona.org
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À TOUTE ÉPREUVE This exhibition reconstructs the creative process behind Miró’s book based on a collection of poems by Paul Éluard with the same title. Fundació Joan Miró. Until July 2nd.
TITANIC THE RECONSTRUCTION Rediscover the fascinating story behind the 1912 tragedy at this Titanic exhibition. Museu Marítim de Barcelona. Until October 1st.
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GRAN GALA FLAMENCO (7TH)
MONDAY
JUNE 2017
THIS MONTH
THE MIDDLE AGES AT THE BRITISH MUSEUM Look into the past with this exhibition, featuring artwork from the British Museum that reflects town life in the Middle Ages. CaixaForum. Until June 18th.
BARCELONA DESIGN WEEK The theme of this year’s event is ‘Transforming Society’, using design to change the world. Barcelona Centre de Disseny. Until June 14th.
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TUESDAY
ALEX BASS & THE SAME SONG BAND Performing with Mungo’s Hi Fi and Sr. Wilson, experience the fresh lyrics and reggae vibes of the popular dub artist. 10pm. Sala Apolo.
GRAN GALA FLAMENCO This show promises all the passion and intensity of the Spanish tradition of flamenco. 9.30pm. Palau de la Música.
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WE DN ESDAY
KOOL & THE GANG Iconic members on the disco, funk soul and R&B scene, brothers Robert and Donald Bell light up the stage as part of this year’s Festival Pedralbes. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
FREE FROM FOOD EXPO Europe’s well-established annual trade event focuses on new ‘freefrom’ and functional products. Fira Barcelona Gran Via. Until June 9th.
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BIZBARCELONA TRADE FAIR Drop by the small business trade show with more than 87 exhibitors from the IT, media, healthcare and clean technology sectors. 10am. Fira Montjuïc.
CHINO & THE BIG BET A night of jazz you’ll never forget, complete with a full brass band. 11pm. Harlem Jazz Club.
JORDI ALCARAZ This exhibition of contemporary art combines sculpture and material-rich artwork, which together transcend boundaries between the disciplines. Galeria Joan Prats. Until June 11th.
RICARDO ARJONA Catch the Guatemalan singersongwriter as he presents his new album Circo soledad. 10pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
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SANTIAGO RUSIÑOL: JARDINS D’ESPANYA Marvel at the 41 paintings said to be some of the artist’s most aesthetic and personal creations. Museu del Modernisme de Barcelona. Until July 9th.
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PRIMAVERA SOUND Festival season is upon us, and this globally-renowned musical extravaganza is back for the 16th year in a row. Parc del Fòrum. Until June 4th.
FRIDAY
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T HURSDAY
SUMMER NIGHTS AT LA PEDRERA Mesmerising views of Barcelona and live jazz music combine for an unforgettable night on the roof of Gaudí’s La Pedrera. 8.30pm. Casa Milà.
EAT STREET: RAINBOW LOVE Eat Street celebrates love—for people, food, and people who love food—with this colourful event. 12pm. Nau Bostik.
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CLASSICAL SATURDAYS Part of the MEAM’s weekly classical concert series, enjoy fine arts and live music together in a unique setting. 6pm. MEAM.
MANEL NAVARRO Discover the newest star of Spanish pop, whose distinct voice and catchy melodies have shot the young singer-songwriter to stardom. 8.30pm. Sala Bikini.
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SAT URDAY
BRUNCH IN THE CITY Making Sunday the best day of the week, this edition of Brunch in the City promises food, dancing and your favourite electronic music. 12pm. Poble Espanyol.
PRIMAL SCREAM The Scottish band will put on two concerts in June, where they will present their alternative rock album Chaosmosis. 9pm. Razzmatazz.
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TWO MARKET Snap up some bargains at this secondhand market. 10am. Ovella Negra, Poblenou.
THE CRANBERRIES The Irish rock band take to the stage for one night only, performing all their best known tracks such as ‘Dreams’, ‘Linger’ and ‘Zombie’. 7pm. Auditori Fòrum.
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SUN DAY
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KRIS KRISTOFFERSON As part of his international tour, the singer-songwriter brings his music to Barcelona. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
BIRDY From the UK, Birdy—whose stage name comes from a nickname her parents gave her as a baby— joins Festival Pedralbes. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
MIGUEL BOSÉ Bosé’s tour, ESTARÉ, spotlights the first acoustic recording he made on MTV Unplugged. 9pm. Auditori Fòrum.
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FADFEST The theme of this year’s event, ‘Design and Tourism’, reflects the challenge of managing mass tourism, and how design can help. Disseny Hub Barcelona. Until July 2nd.
THE BEACH BOYS Six years have passed since their last album, now The Beach Boys are back to perform as part of the Festival Pedralbes. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
ALEXANDER MELNIKOV One of the most original pianists on the scene, Alexander Melnikov performs Dmitri Shostakovich’s ‘24 Preludes and Fugues, Op. 87’. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música.
PHOTO
L’OU COM BALLA Witness the traditional ‘Dancing Eggs’ in fountains in courtyards across the city, as part of Corpus Christi. 10am. City centre.
SÓNAR For this three-day festival, musical acts such as De La Soul, Nicolas Jaar and Anderson will perform alongside Sónar+D, a meeting point for creatives. Fira Montjuïc. Until June 18th.
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JOAQUÍN SABINA Joaquín Sabina returns to Barcelona after a seven-year hiatus, performing songs from his new album Lo niego todo. 10pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
GAMELAB BARCELONA Over 1,000 entrepreneurs, creators and investors will gather to discuss, test and exhibit new innovations in the gaming industry. Hesperia Tower. Until June 30th.
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THE WAY THINGS DO A tribute to David Weiss and Peter Fischli´s The Way Things Go (1987), this exhibition features installations inspired by the film. Fundació Joan Miró. Until October 1st.
OPEN-AIR FILM FESTIVAL Pack a picnic and head to one of these outdoor film screenings— the programme this year includes La La Land and The Revenant. Sala Montjuïc. Until August 4th.
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VERBENA DE SANT JOAN Also known as the Nit de Foc (Night of Fire), this Catalan festival is celebrated with fireworks, bonfires on the beach and plenty of cava.
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ISMAEL SMITH: THE BEAUTY AND THE MONSTERS Paintings, sculptures and illustrations trace the career of this Barcelona-born artist. MNAC. Until September 17th.
DAVID BISBAL On his 2017 world tour, David Bisbal will present his new album Hijos Del Mar (2016). 9:30pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
CARLOS MARCO As part of a solo tour based on his first single ‘Sugar’, Carlos Marco will bring his cheerful pop to Barcelona for one night only. 9pm. Sala Bikini.
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MECAL AIR BARCELONA In the open air of Plaça del Baluard, films from the Barcelona International Short and Animation Film Festival will be shown. 8pm. Poble Espanyol.
NITS GAUDÍ Visit the Bellesguard house—a cultural heritage site and the Gaudí house with the longest history—for this summer music session. Torre Bellesguard. Until September 12th.
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BARCELONA YOGA DAY Harness your inner zen at yoga classes, meditations and artisanal markets. Relaxation guaranteed. 10am. Parc de l’Estació del Nord.
BELLE AND SEBASTIAN Catch the Scottish indie-pop band’s performance, also part of Festival Pedralbes, which is taking over the city this month. 9pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
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SUMMER NIGHTS AT LA PEDRERA (10TH)
2CELLOS This cello duo’s classical covers such as ‘Viva la Vida’ and the Game of Thrones theme song, have brought them huge fame. The Score Tour celebrates their newest release. 10pm. Jardins Palau Reial Pedralbes.
FEAST OF SANT JOAN Recover from the Nit de Foc with sweet or savoury coques after a lunch with family and friends.
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MOSAIC FESTIVAL Ready to be dazzled? This dance party in Plaça Mayor, complete with a series of DJ sets and light shows, is the perfect way to welcome in summer. 4pm. Poble Espanyol.
MAKER FAIRE BARCELONA Unleash your inner creative at this two-day festival promoting all things innovative and imaginative. Fira Montjuïc. Until June 18th.
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FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
VIDA FESTIVAL Phoenix, Fleet Foxes and the Flaming Lips will headline this music festival—just a 30-minute train ride from Barcelona. Vilanova i la Geltrú. Until July 2nd.
STATUS QUO Performing from their latest studio album Aquostic (Stripped Bare) (2014), Status Quo will bring yet another legendary rock performance to the Liceu. 9pm. Liceu.
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TITANIC THE RECONSTRUCTION (5TH)
PHOTO
BJÖRK DIGITAL An immersive exhibition that uses virtual reality to showcase firsthand the creative universe of Icelandic icon Björk. CCCB. Until September 24th.
LIGHTFORMS/SOUNDFORMS All aspects of Brian Eno’s work, from video art to textual and graphic pieces, are brought together in a single show. Arts Santa Mònica. Until July 1st.
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COLLECTION SEKULA After years of research, Allan Sekula’s work has come to fruition. Fundació Antoni Tàpies. Until September 25th.
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KRISIUN The trio of Brazilian brothers bring their extreme style of heavy metal to cult followers in the city. 10pm. Sala Apolo.
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GUILLE RYAN AND TIA PERLA Get inked by some of the best in the business—these two visiting artists emphasise each tattoo design with colour splatters and brushstrokes. The Gallery Tattoo. Until June 24th.
DON GIOVANNI Mariusz Kwiecien and Carlos Álvarez star in the Liceu’s 77th performance of this Italian opera. Liceu. Until July 2nd.
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FREDERIC AMAT. ZOETROPE In this exhibition one of the most outstanding creators on the Catalan art scene invades public spaces with his work. La Pedrera. Until July 16th.
MARTHA ROSLER: GOD BLESS AMERICA! Using video as a tool for socio-political analysis, Rosler questions the Western way of life. MACBA. Until October 15th.
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THE NEW
SOHO? A MAJOR REBIRTH OF THE TRAFALGAR NEIGHBOURHOOD MEANS OUT WITH THE CHINESE WHOLESALE STORES AND IN WITH THE UPSCALE ART GALLERIES By Will Shank. Photos by Lewis Gregory
Michelle Felip and her co-founder moved their gallery to Carrer de Trafalgar last year
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nce upon a time there was a Barcelona street that attracted neither tourists nor locals. Carrer de Trafalgar traces a dog-leg path between Plaça Urquinaona and Arc de Triomf, and it used to be a place that people would quickly walk past, unless they were in the market for wholesale clothing from one of the many Chinese shops. All that has changed with the recent departure of almost all of those clothing outlets for the Merca China, an industrial park in Badalona—there’s a widely circulated myth about the ‘why’ of that relocation, having to do with zoning permits for truck deliveries, but that’s another story. Trail-blazer Carlos Durán moved his Galeria Senda from its longtime location on the Consell de Cent art corridor to a vast space at Trafalgar 32 last autumn. Among the blue-chip artists whom he represents are Jaume Plensa and Peter Halley. Why Trafalgar? While many of his neighbours’ businesses shuttered because of rent increases in the former gallery district, that was not the case for Senda. “Our gallery needed another space for dialogue. Trafalgar offered us everything: a central location, transport connections with the whole city and newer spaces with great personality. Plus the area has a textile heritage. Two energies come together here—Sant Pere below us, with its theatres and dance, and the Eixample just above.” He sees these neighbourhoods merging and creating a new identity that will bring other businesses and the right kind of people to the street. He hesitates to call it the new Soho. “Maybe calling it the new East Village or West Village would be more appropriate.” Trafalgar does not want to become the Born, Durán notes. “In the early Nineties there was an attempt to make the Born an artists’ neighbourhood, but it was too early for the city. We’ve all grown since then and changed the way in which we use the city. The Born was a failure in that it never reached that potential. In contrast, 15 galleries have already opened in this area”, including participating venues for Durán’s Raval-based LOOP video festival. Before Senda moved in, Ukrainian Margarita Yarmats had already picked out the space for her own shop Begemot, the name of a legendary talking black cat known to every Russian and Ukrainian
Inside Mutuo
schoolchild. The proprietor of a former art gallery of the same name in Mataró, Yarmats was feeling out of touch in her previous location. When she began her search for a new address, she recognised the obvious advantages of the low rent and high ceilings of properties on Trafalgar, which she had admired as a charming and underused neighbourhood for years. Begemot Art and Fashion now has an enviable storefront location at Trafalgar 56, where Yarmats sells one-of-a-kind garments, displays works by an international roster of artists, and stages musical events to complement such art. Mutuo, the non-profit gallery-for-hire just below Carrer de Trafalgar on the block-long Carrer de Méndez Núñez, arrived last year from its former location just off Via Laietana on Carrer de Julià Portet. The rent at the old place, which the gallerists had converted from a garage with their own blood, sweat and tears, suddenly doubled, and the financial burden made staying there impossible. Mutuo’s co-founders, Michelle Felip and Lucas Rojas, had eyed the current property a few years earlier, but they felt unsure about the area above Sant Pere, which back then seemed isolated. Now they have signed a 10-year contract. A happy ending? “The area is nice. I love the trees,” said Michelle. “Compared to Via Laietana it’s like a real neighbourhood. People actually chat with each other here.” She also likes that new shops are opening, and is delighted at the foot traffic, as people will look through the gallery windows and drop in on their walk from Gràcia to the Born. Mutuo puts on nine curated shows per year in its gallery space, while renting out a larger space behind it for events and separate exhibitions. Estudio Nómada had outgrown its previous location on Palma de Sant Just, where classrooms and art studios shared ancient and charming, but cramped, quarters in the Barri Gòtic. So, last year, when its Dutch owner Arnout Krediet discovered that Trafalgar 55 was available, he assessed its advantages as a new location for his art school, which attracts an international group of students primarily from northern Europe. “There were huge properties available on this street that were poorly maintained, but that gave it a slightly underground feel which appealed to us,” said Krediet. “This is what artists do. They find something affordable, fix it up and
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make it cool.” Both the faculty and the students find Estudio Nómada’s current location appealing, 50 metres from Arc de Triomf and a fiveminute walk to Park Ciutadella. The four-metre-high ceilings give the school an impressive gallery space visible from the street, which was another factor in Krediet’s decision to relocate. The renovated building now offers students a hip, central urban space in which to exhibit their work. Estudio Nómada had its grand re-opening in April. Bombon Projects opened at Trafalgar 45 this past winter. After the success of its exhibition space Passatge in Poblenou, Joana Roda and Bernat Daviu decided to open a commercial gallery here, and they now divide their time between the two. Like the art school at number 55, the renovation was also a gut job that required the demolition of lots of low-hanging ceilings. It is now a tall and pristine white exhibition space with an office that overlooks the gallery from a mezzanine in the back. After several years of commuting between a position at Christie’s in London and his Poblenou gallery, Daviu finally decided that Barcelona was ready to become a serious art centre, and he left his day job abroad in order to focus on new ventures in his native land. “I like the challenge,” he said. Bombon celebrated its second vernissage in April with its current installation, the utilitarian artwork of Josep Maynou.
“This is what artists do. They find something affordable, fix it up and make it cool.” Arnout Krediet of Estudio Nómada
Extending one short block down from Trafalgar is a small T-shaped street called Passatge de Sant Benet. There, a Venezuelan-born couple, long-time residents of Barcelona, share a cosy, two-storey loft tucked away behind a red door on what Fernando Adam calls a ‘calle de pueblo’. The internationally acclaimed painter and sculptor became disillusioned with the boutique-ification of the Born a decade ago, and he tried out several other work spaces around the city before he and his partner landed in this neighbourhood two years ago. Adam values the long artisan history of the barrio. “One of the Chinese neighbours told me, ‘We used to sew ties here’,” he said with a smile. “As an artist, I feel welcome. I don’t feel like an intruder.” The artisanal quality of the neighbouring businesses nurtures his own work—he mentioned a local shoemaker, and the music of a Russian pianist that comes through his windows from the bookshop across the street. His wife, the architect Carola Noguera, offered a poetic interpretation of the space that she shares with her husband (she works upstairs and he downstairs). Because of the origins of the textile industry in this very neighbourhood, Noguera feels a sense of continuity with its history, and she acknowledges the symbolism of her immediate environment in her work. “This is the architectural typology of the casa-taller,” she said of the lovely space at number 4. “It relates house and fabric.” Her goal is to contribute to the revival of the rich artistic past of the Trafalgar area and open her doors to Venezuelans and other immigrants in an effort to activate it economically through the world of textiles. Is this the new Soho then? “The Born is Soho,” observed Noguera. “We are living and creating right now the transformation of the artisanal past of this area. It will be a new nucleus for Barcelona.”
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Top left Joana Roda and Bernat Daviu of Bombon Projects Top right Margarita Yarmats of Begemot Bottom Fernando Adam and the distinct red door of his loft
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BARCELONA
FOR FREE FROM CLASSICAL MUSIC TO ART AND HISTORY, THE CITY OFFERS A WEALTH OF ACTIVITIES THAT DON’T COME WITH A PRICE TAG
W
ith its many luxury hotels, superyachts and Michelin-starred restaurants, Barcelona can sometimes feel like a playground for the wealthy. And while there are plenty of ways to indulge your hard-earned cash, you can also do a lot here without spending a single euro. Thanks to a lively arts scene, local festivities and a city council that is keen to promote all aspects of Barcelona, you can discover the city, take in some culture and have a good time, and still not break the bank.
DISCOVER THE CITY BUNKERS DEL CARMEL > Located on the Turó de la Rovira, with panoramic views of the city, these anti-aircraft bunkers were built in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War. After the war, the area became a shanty town with over 3,000 inhabitants. Now run by the Museu d’Història de Barcelona, the area can be accessed free of charge and includes a small museum that details the bunkers’ history. Marià Lavèrnia s/n. museuhistoria.bcn.cat MODERNISTA ROUTE > The Ajuntament’s Ruta del Modernisme project encourages visitors to get out and explore Barcelona’s Modernista heritage. It highlights 120 points around the city—mostly buildings that can be viewed from the outside, but also some churches and other buildings that you can go inside. The website has a map and a list of the places, allowing you to put together your own walking tour. For €12 you can buy a guide with a printed map and discounts on entry prices. rutadelmodernisme.com
CEMETERY TOURS > The Trail of the Cemeteries shows visitors around two of Barcelona’s best-known resting places. A Walk in the Cemetery of Poblenou takes in 100 years of history and many local characters, from 1775, when the cemetery opened, to 1888 and the Universal Exhibition. Tours in Spanish take place the first Sunday of the month at 12.30pm and the third Sunday of the month at 10.30am. The Dreams of Barcelona tour takes visitors through the Cemetery of Montjuïc, focusing on the period between 1883 and 1936, and the wealth of well-known people who were buried there. The tour takes in 40 of the cemetery’s most important mausoleums and graves from an artistic and historical viewpoint. Tours in Spanish take place the second and fourth Sunday of the month at 11.15am. FREE WALKING TOURS > Get ready to impress your summer guests by brushing up on your city knowledge. The Original Barcelona Walking Tour takes around three hours and includes the sights of the Gothic Quarter, the Born and the Olympic Village. Although the tours are free, you are encouraged to leave a tip if you enjoy the experience. Every day at 10.30am and 2.30pm from Plaça Catalunya. free-barcelona-tours.com Barcelona Street Style Tours are also free (donations encouraged) and have two routes—the Born and Gothic Quarter, and the Raval— focusing on street art and the city’s creative side. The Born and Gothic tour leaves at 2pm every day from the Arc de Triomf. The Raval tour leaves daily from the MACBA at 4.45pm. barcelonastreetstyletour.com
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CULTURE FREE MUSEUMS > On the first Sunday of the month most of the city’s museums are free to the public. In addition, many museums offer free entry every Sunday from 3pm to 8pm. Check individual museums’ websites for details. LOCAL FESTIVALS > From June to September there’s barely a weekend without a street party somewhere in the city. These are often rich in Catalan traditions and music, and provide colourful (and free) entertainment for pretty much every family member. So, know your festivals and get down with the locals—from drinking beer on the beach for Sant Joan (June), to street gazing and concerts till dawn at the Festes de Gràcia (August), and running with the dragons at the Festes de la Mercè (September). PUBLIC ART > From Botero’s generously proportioned cat on Rambla del Raval to Roy Lichtenstein’s flamboyant El Cap de Barcelona near the waterfront, you don’t need to go inside to enjoy some of the city’s most famous artwork. The Ajuntament has a section dedicated to public art on its website. To get there, go to lameva.barcelona.cat and search for ‘public art’. PRIVATE ART GALLERIES > Barcelona has many excellent private galleries that are free to enter. Exhibition openings often take place on Thursday evenings and if you’re lucky you may get a glass of cava with your visit.
MET PEOPLE
For some great contemporary art, spend an afternoon gallery hopping in the Eixample, the city’s classic gallery area. Try Marlborough (Enric Granados 68), Joan Prats (Balmes 54), ADN (Enric Granados 49), 3 Punts (Enric Granados 21) and Toni Tàpies (Consell de Cent 282).
What’s your favourite free thing to do in Barcelona?
ARTS SANTA MONICA > This innovative centre is dedicated to exploring creativity in the digital culture and holds many free exhibitions and activities. It covers a wide spectrum of creative disciplines from architecture to performing arts, literature and visual arts. La Rambla 7. artssantamonica.gencat.cat VIRREINA CENTRE IMATGE > Located in the Palau de la Virreina on La Rambla, La Virreina Centre de la Imatge holds photography and audiovisual exhibitions as well as imagerelated talks and courses. Most of the activities are free. Until June 18th you can see the exhibition ‘Blackout Tres’. La Rambla 99. ajuntament.barcelona.cat/lavirreina CENTRE D’ART CONTEMPORANI FABRA I COATS > This converted textile factory in Sant Andreu is a four-storey multidisciplinary art centre dedicated to the diffusion of contemporary art. It is a space of dialogue and experimentation, open to all audiences. Entry to the exhibitions is free. Sant Adrià 20. ajuntament.barcelona.cat/centredart
VANESSA
Age: 28 From: Hawaii Profession: Entrepreneur I love wandering aimlessly around the Gothic Quarter and the Born—for me, it’s these two neighbourhoods that make Barcelona so special.
SANTIAGO
Age: 35 From: Argentina Profession: Digital marketing manager Sometimes I take Bicing and go to the end of the marina to enjoy a mate (a typical drink from Argentina). It’s my way of saying hello to Argentina from afar.
MIQUEL
Age: 46 From: Barcelona Profession: CEO of Barcelona Tech City I like to run, listening to the different noises of the city as I move around. And if I don’t feel like running, I’ll sometimes take a ride on my motorbike instead.
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MUSIC MÚSICA ALS PARCS > The city’s Música als parcs cycle brings classical and jazz concerts to the people at open-air events in parks around the city. ajuntament.barcelona.cat/ecologiaurbana JAZZ AT THE LICEU > Every Thursday evening at the Liceu Conservatory Cafe, this jam session brings top jazz players together with talented Liceu students. 9pm. Nou de la Rambla 88. CONSERVATORI MUNICIPAL DE MÚSICA > The Municipal Conservatory of Barcelona holds regular free concerts by its students, from chamber music to soloists and singers, at the Auditori Eduard Toldrà. Bruc 110-112. cmmb.cat LIVE MUSIC BARS > The city has a number of venues where you can enjoy brilliant live music for the price of just a drink. Try the quirky Gran Bodega Saltó (Blesa 36) for Sunday vermut against the backdrop of live rumba, blues and acoustic music. Meanwhile, Marula Café (Escudellers 49) has live sessions every Wednesday, which are sure to get you dancing. Entry is free before midnight.
TAKE PART TAP JAM > Every Sunday from 3.30pm to 5.30pm at the bandstand in Parc de la Ciutadella, the city’s tap dancers get together at this event organised by the association Tot Pel Claqué. If you know how to tap feel free to join in or just enjoy the show. SWING > On the first and third Sunday of every month, BCNSWING holds an open swing dancing session in Parc de la Ciutadella. Everyone is welcome to join as the group Lindy hop, jive and jitterbug. bcnswing.org JAM DE CUENTOS > If your Spanish skills are up to it, take part in this weekly storytelling jam that tests participants’ ability to improvise. Every Tuesday 8.30pm to 11.30pm. Ateneu Rosa de Foc. Robí 5 OPEN MIC > Budding poets, singers, musicians and comedians can try out their talents at this friendly affair at the bar/restaurant Ca Meua. Every Thursday 8pm. Mallorca 77. VIRTUAL ESCAPE ROOM > For adults and children alike, use your deductive skills to get out of the laboratory in this virtual escape room at the Mobile World Centre. Booking is advisable, but they can usually squeeze you in if you just turn up. Fontanella 2. mobileworldcentre.com
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WORKING LIFE
startup of the month
AFTERSCOOL CO-FOUNDER LAIA IGLESIAS, 40, BARCELONA Afterscool is the solution I needed for my own family, but I created the website for all mums and dads who want to find after-school activities and camps for their children without searching the internet for hours or relying on word of mouth. With Afterscool, 21st-century parents can easily discover, book and share extracurricular activities for kids of all ages, from robotics and cooking classes to dance, tennis, surf and sailing camps. The platform is not just for families. It’s also beneficial for businesses who need better visibility for their summer camp or drone-making workshop. When the activity is over, parents can give their feedback, which helps these businesses tweak and improve their product. So, Afterscool not only connects customers and vendors, but opens up a line of communication between the two as well. We have a business development team that is focused on getting the best partners involved in the platform—high quality programmes that won’t disappoint our users. We even test some of the classes before allowing them to join. In addition, we have developed several marketing strategies to connect with these businesses. Right now, the most important thing for Afterscool is to attract more businesses because we can’t grow our number of users without having a good range of activities to offer them. While Afterscool does offer traditional activities for kids, such as sports camps, arts and crafts, and English classes, we strive to offer more innovative activities—programmes that will teach children skills for the future. We believe kids are never too young to learn to code, for example. But parents are busy—I for one, am a working mother of three—and we don’t always have the time or patience to scour the internet looking for out of the ordinary activities. We rely on
what we know or what we learn from other parents. That’s why I want to make sure Afterscool offers a huge range of activities—all in one place—so families know all their options and can choose the best class or camp for them. After-school activities aren’t just about the logistics. Yes, parents sign their children up for after-school activities so that they have something to do and somewhere to be while they’re still at work. But this time shouldn’t be wasted. Children should use these hours to explore their talents, learn new things, grow as individuals and make more friends. In my family, I sit down with each kid and we scroll through the website. Most of the time I can predict what they will be interested in—my nine-year-old is really into Minecraft, for instance— but sometimes they surprise me. I’m grateful that they’re not limited to doing the same things over and over again, and they can enjoy themselves while developing a range of skills. We’ve spent a lot of time on the user experience. We’ve made the website easy to use—families can search for activities by area, by age or by interest— and we are an end-to-end solution, so they can book directly with us. Now we’re starting the next phase of the project. We’ve been selected to join Barcelona Activa, part of the Glòries Business Incubator, where they provide support to startups based in Barcelona as a way to improve their competitiveness, along with boosting relations between leading companies of the city, and providing business services and mentoring that foster wealth and employment. I think being there, around other beginning startups, and being part of that synergy will be extremely advantageous. For a full list of Afterscool activities, visit afterscool.com.
GET INSPIRED... TEDXBARCELONA SALON
GALLERY OF IDEAS PROVOKE
I AM TOMORROW
Each month TEDxBarcelona screens a different talk centred around an interesting topic. Attendees are then encouraged to discuss and debate that topic with one another as a sort of networking icebreaker. Mazda Space. Comerç 60. June 6th. 7pm. See tedxbarcelona.com for more information.
The Gallery of Ideas Conference aims to challenge the way we think. At this particular networking event, seven inspirational leaders will each give a 10-minute talk to share their knowledge on how best to provoke thought, action and change. Mobile World Center. Fontanella 2. June 15th. 6pm.
I Am Tomorrow brings together inspiring women from all fields for a programme of conferences, discussions and workshops. Thirty speakers will share their professional journeys and words of wisdom for the 400+ entrepreneurial women expected to attend. La Bonne. Sant Pere Més Baix 7. June 22nd. 9.30am.
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WORKING LIFE
THE
BALANCING ACT SPAIN IS FINALLY TACKLING ITS SINGULAR WORKING HOURS AND THEIR DETRIMENTAL EFFECTS ON EMPLOYEES’ LIVES
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L
orena Muñoz works in the marketing department of a large company based just outside of Barcelona, and her day is typical of that of many Spaniards who work the horario partido (a long working day split by a twoto-three-hour lunch break). She’s at her desk by 9am, breaks for a two-hour lunch at 2pm, then works from 4pm till 7pm. A mother of two, with a partner who works similar hours, their family gets by with some help from her mother, who collects the children from school and fills the gap until Muñoz or her husband gets home. “It’s hard on everyone,” said Muñoz. “We see so little of the kids, and we’re all exhausted when we are together.” Her story is familiar to the many working parents in Spain whose families are held together by the fragile glue of after-school activities and willing grandparents. To many foreigners, used to a hastily-eaten sandwich at their desk, the long, Spanish lunches can seem leisurely and relaxed, but to those who have no choice, they can be the death knell for a life beyond work. According to the Catalan platform Iniciativa per a la Reforma Horària (Initiative for Reforming Working Hours), about half of Spanish employees are still at their desks at 6pm, 30 percent at 7pm, and 10 percent don’t leave the office until 9pm.
TAKING ITS TOLL The negative effects of a long working day are many. The weight of combining work and home life is disproportionately carried by women, who still perform the lion’s share of childcare and home duties. According to ‘Maternidad y trayectoria profesional’, a recent study carried out by IESE Business School, and based on a survey of 8,500 people (mostly women between the ages of 25 and 45 with young children), 35.2 percent said they had had to make big sacrifices in their family lives in order to achieve a high position at work, and 77.5 percent said lunchtimes are too late and too long. The lack of work/life balance almost certainly has some bearing on Spain’s birth rate, one of the lowest in Europe. Since 2008, it has plummeted 28 percent to 1.3 children per woman, well below the European Union average of 1.58. In 2016, for the first time, the country reported a higher number of deaths than births. And, the long day may well be one of the factors contributing to the country’s status as Europe’s most sleep deprived nation. A 2013 study revealed that Spaniards sleep 53 minutes less than the European average. Other factors often associated to Spain’s working hours include obesity, depression and lack of productivity at work.
SEEDS OF CHANGE It seems like the tide is changing however. The Iniciativa per a la Reforma Horària was launched in 2013, to lobby for change in the region’s schedules. The platform is made up of academics, politicians and professionals, and addresses the many factors affected by Spain’s unusual timetable. These include not only healthier working hours, but also encouraging earlier mealtimes and bringing into line the timetables of institutions and social and cultural players. Catalan politician Fabian Mohedano of Junts pel Sí and an advocate of the Iniciativa per a la Reforma Horària considers that Spain’s timetable is at the root of many of its problems. “We are the only country in the world where people have lunch at 3pm and dinner at 10pm. We do everything two hours too late,” said Mohedano. A proposal for adjusting the timetable in Catalunya was announced
last year by the Catalan parliament, with all political groups in agreement. The wide-ranging recommendations will promote a social and cultural shift in all areas of life, from education and work to mealtimes, sleep, shopping and leisure activities. They even touch on prime time television. Spain’s most popular programmes generally don’t begin until 10pm or even 11pm. In January, there was furor over the finale of MasterChef Junior, a series ostensibly aimed at children. Aired on a Tuesday evening and watched by three million people, it ended after 1am. The changes in Catalan schools and universities are planned to come into play by September 2018, after a transitional period during which local administrations will promote and incentivise the changes. Catalunya cannot legally oblige places to follow the proposals but it can create policies that encourage the adoption of new habits. Companies will be supported in adapting to a shorter working day, hopefully reducing absenteeism and improving productivity. And there are plans to introduce special prices for public transport to encourage its use at the new (earlier) peak times.
HOW HARD TO PUSH There is a lack of agreement on what should be legislated and how much can be achieved through goodwill alone. The Partit dels Socialistes de Catalunya is in favour of introducing legislation to ensure that changes are made. For example, the establishing of earlier (and legally binding) closing times for shops. Other parties prefer a route where progress comes through agreements and incentives, such as the idea of giving companies a ‘quality stamp’ that would work in their favour when bidding for public contracts. Meanwhile, at a national level, progress is also being made, albeit slowly. In December of last year, the Minister for Employment, Fátima Báñez, announced a political and social pact to address the working day. “We want our work days to finish at six o’clock, and to achieve this we will work towards striking a deal with representatives from both companies and trade unions,” she told parliament. Báñez recognises that one of the hardest sectors to tackle will be small and medium-sized companies. Having recently emerged from a long recession, these businesses may be hard-pressed to finance a big change. The Confederación Española de Organizaciones Empresariales agrees and insists that it supports the efforts to find a balance between work and personal life but warns against legislating a uniform working day, saying that it would be detrimental to workers, consumers, business owners and society, and that it could affect the competitivity of Spanish companies.
CREATURES OF HABIT Although it remains to be seen how the path forward will look, there is no doubt that Spain’s timetable is deeply ingrained in the nation’s daily habits, and change will be a mammoth task. “Our biggest challenges are fear and ignorance,” said Mohedano. He dates the long hours from the Sixties when, instead of looking for higher productivity as other European countries did, Spain made the working day longer. It is also said to hark back to the post-Civil War times when many people were working double jobs to survive—one in the morning, followed by a break to eat and sleep, and one in the afternoon. Whatever the origins of the Spanish timetable, a change across the board will represent a huge cultural shift. For people like Muñoz and her family, the shift can’t come too soon.
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WORKING LIFE
A DAY IN THE LIFE
NATALIE BATLLE, 31, AMERICAN, BRAND DIRECTOR AT WANUP
Natalie has worked in brand communications and production for seven years. Originally from Chicago, her career has taken her to San Francisco, New York and Barcelona.
8AM As soon as I wake up, I make a frothy latte and then limber up with a video from a turbo pilates series on YouTube. The workouts are fun and effective and energise me for the day ahead. I’ve also made it part of my morning routine to listen to the BBC’s Global News Podcast while I get dressed. News podcasts are huge time savers for people on the go. I also recommend ‘The Daily’ by the New York Times.
9AM Lately I’ve been travelling a lot, but on the days that I work from Barcelona I tend to get to the office around 9.15am. Wanup HQ is located in Sarrià, and its office spaces are gorgeous, surrounded by trees with lots of natural light coming in. As soon as I arrive, I catch up on emails and go over priorities with my team.
11AM I spend the rest of my mornings writing and in meetings. I’m much more creative early in the day so I try to schedule all of my brand and marketing meetings before lunch. Right now I’m focused on branding Wanup to consumer audiences. We launched the new hotel loyalty club this October and are constantly evolving. My job as brand director is to own the company vision and transmit this vision to the public. I’m currently playing with new taglines and designs for our consumer launch this summer.
1.30-3PM I use my lunch break to go to the gym. I try to fit in 30-40 minutes of spinning at least three days a week. Wanup culture encourages healthy habits, and my bosses go to the gym too, which sets a great example for their employees. Afterwards, I usually eat a healthy menú del día at the cafe next door to DiR.
3-7PM Now it’s time for PR, budgeting and agency coordination. A big part of my job is working with international partners and our commercial team. I spend the second half of the day reviewing proposals from our PR agencies, responding to
reactive media requests and analysing our press coverage online and off. My team also manages a busy events calendar, so the afternoons are reserved for event planning, preparation and negotiations. Typically, we travel about twice a month for media events and trade shows. Since our launch I’ve been to Berlin, London, Milan, Lisbon and Madrid to introduce Wanup to potential hoteliers and journalists.
7PM After work I catch up with friends or run errands before heading home for dinner with my fiancé, Terry.
9PM We recently renovated our apartment and terrace so we’re spending a lot of time grilling at home, especially now that it’s barbecue season.
10.30PM Netflix before bed! We’re currently watching one of its original series The Get Down Part II.
12AM Lights out.
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TRAVEL
WRITTEN IN THE STARS STARGAZING IS A SIMPLE WAY TO BRING SCIENCE TO LIFE AND VIEW THE EXPANSIVENESS OF THE UNIVERSE
Photos courtesy of Observatori Fabra de Barcelona
By Melissa Leighty
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nyone who has stood outside at night and peered up into the skies above Barcelona knows that there’s not much more to see than the gold-frosted hue of light pollution typical of metropolitan cities. This light pollution, known as skyglow, means we city dwellers see a fraction of the stars that are visible in the countryside, and even with the help of telescopes, they’re difficult or impossible to spot. Luckily, we live near rural landscapes that are perfect for viewing the stars unobstructed. Whether you choose to see them through a telescope at an observatory or with the naked eye through the flap of your tent, we have gathered a few of the best places to stargaze in Barcelona’s backyard.
Views over Barcelona from the Fabra Observatory
LEARN ABOUT THE STARS OBSERVATORI FABRA DE BARCELONA
PARC ASTRONÒMIC MONTSEC
Closest to Barcelona, the Fabra Observatory is a short drive into the Collserola hills. Established in 1904, it’s the fourth oldest functioning observatory in the world. The observatory’s scientists give tours of the facility, which teach visitors about astronomy, meteorology and seismology, as well as the domestic uses of the building in the early 20th century. The guides also demonstrate how the observatory’s two modern telescopes work and show guests around the library and panoramic terrace. If you want to know more about the night sky after the tour, there are basic and advanced astronomy courses available. For a less academic experience that’s just as memorable, make a reservation for the Dining with the Stars dinner series that the observatory puts on from June 10th to October 9th. Guided day tours Hours: Sundays, 11am and 12.30pm Price: €2, free for children under 10 Guided night tours & observation Hours: Fridays and Saturdays at sunset, October to June Reservations required: Call 93 327 0121 or 697 864 262 www.fabra.cat
Although the Montsec Astronomical Park is a bit of a long haul, it’s a great excuse to see some beautiful Catalan countryside. Set in the mountains of Lleida, you can combine your visit to the observatory with outdoor activities such as climbing, hiking the via ferrata and kayaking in the gorge of Mont-rebei. Guided tours of the observatory lead visitors into The Eye of Montsec, a multimedia planetarium, where they watch We Are Stars. The show explains how everything around us is made of material produced inside stars. The roof of the dome is then opened to reveal the real sky, and an instructor helps visitors identify some of the best attributes of the night. Here, it’s also possible to use telescopes to get a closer look at the Moon, planets and nebulae. The observatory’s ongoing exhibition on astronomy and the natural environment of Montsec is free and open to the public. Hours: See website Reservations required: Call 973 053 022 or 973 455 246 Price: Day tours €8 (reduced €7), night tours €10.50 (reduced €9) parcastronomic.cat
OBSERVATORI ASTRONÒMIC DE CASTELLTALLAT The Castelltallat Observatory sits on a hill 910 metres above sea level, with views of the Pyrenees by day and millions of stars by night. Learn about the brightest stars in the sky, constellations and galaxies on a guided tour that also includes a walk through its current exhibition and an introductory lecture. Visitors can use various telescopes to identify galaxies, nebulae, double stars, globular and open clusters, planets and the Moon. Hours: Fridays and Saturdays throughout the year Reservations required: Call 667 529 051 Price: €15 for adults, €12 for children aged eight to 12, free for children under seven observatoricastelltallat.com
OBSERVATORI ASTRONÒMIC DE SABADELL The Sabadell Observatory does something a little different. Each of its guided sessions is dedicated to a particular star such as the Sun, the Moon, Jupiter or Saturn. Sessions begin in the auditorium, where participants learn about the star, which they then have the opportunity to see through the observatory’s telescopes. Each session lasts about an hour and a half. The observatory also runs an impressive number of workshops for kids that teach them about the stars and the Big Bang, among other topics. Adults can take classes in person or online, which cover practical and theoretical topics from how to use telescopes, to supernovas and quantum physics. Hours: See website Reservations required: Call 93 725 5373 Price: €9 for adults, €4 for children aged five to 14, free for children under four astrosabadell.org
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SLEEP UNDER THE STARS
Photos courtesy of Mil Estrelles
MIL ESTRELLES How would you feel about staying in a bubble? Mil Estrelles is a unique hotel experience, offering guests a chance to connect with nature and enjoy a romantic night under the stars from the comfort of their own room. The concept takes glamping to a whole new level. The largest of the bubble rooms, the Stellar Bubble Room Grand Suite Spica, is a 43m2 duplex with a fireplace and terrace. There are 10 bubble rooms and suites in total, as well as three interior rooms for those who want a bit more privacy. For when you’re ready to come out of your bubble, special night sky observations and chats are led by members of the Banyoles Astrological Association. On the property, there’s also a flotarium, jacuzzi and sauna, and guests can schedule a massage or rent bikes to make the most of the daylight too. milestrelles.com
CASA MASSA Casa Massa is located in Pallars Sobirà, one of the areas on the Iberian Peninsula with the least skyglow, which makes it an exceptional place from which to view the night sky. The large farmhouse, located in the tiny village of Estac, has enough room for 10-12 guests, and they also rent a smaller place nearby. Can Massa runs regular astronomy workshops with both naked eye and telescope observation, and on the occasional weekend night, photography classes as well. Workshop price: €100 (minimum six people) casamassa.cat
CAN BONET Can Bonet is well-situated to explore Girona and other locations on the Costa Brava. There are three fully-equipped apartments, which can be rented for a minimum of two nights in the off-season and by the week in high season. Guests can enjoy more than their room with stargazing classes held in the masia. Using its powerful telescopes, participants can observe constellations, and learn the legends of the universe. Workshop price: €30 for two people, or €10 per person for a group of three or more Duration: 90 minutes canbonet.com
CAL ROS Cal Ros is a traditional Catalan farmhouse located 30 minutes from Manresa and Igualada by car, on the edge of dark-sky country. It has six different rooms, as well as a pool, and splendid views of the countryside. Many activities are available, from farm visits to balloon rides, but for stargazers, it arranges visits to the nearby Pujalt Observatory (observatoridepujalt.cat), which hosts meteorology and astronomy workshops, and observations for all ages. calros.info
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Photos courtesy of Cabanes als arbres
BRANCH OUT
FOR A CITY ESCAPE FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE, SLEEP SUSPENDED IN THE TREES OF THE GUILLERIES MASSIF
W
hen it comes to planning a holiday, it’s not often that the accommodation precedes the destination. The Cabanes als arbres however, is one exception to this rule. Perched high in the treetops of the Guilleries Massif, a mountain range in the north of Catalunya, the cabanes are a series of eco treehouses nestled in the branches of the region’s leafy forest. Their idyllic location and treetop design make these treehouses the ultimate getaway, guaranteed to bring out just about anyone’s inner child. And at just an hour and a half outside the city, they really do make for the ultimate escape. Accessed by clambering across a wooden suspension bridge or scaling a ladder, each of the treehouses available to rent is designed to fit seamlessly into its surroundings. Holidaymakers can choose from 10 treehouses, all named after local Catalan birds and built entirely from natural, untreated wood. Inside, cosy double beds and scattered cushions make for a welcoming space, while Douglas firclad walls infuse the cabins with the smell of pine. Each treehouse also has its own outdoor terrace complete with deckchairs, where guests can soak up the sounds of the wild. In keeping with its natural surroundings, Cabanes als arbres is committed to being as eco-friendly as possible. Aside from the
untreated wood used in construction, the treehouses rely on candlelight instead of electricity, and jugs of water take the place of traditional running water. Even the site’s swimming pool sticks to this commitment, cleaned by ultraviolet lamps as opposed to unnatural chemical products. While it may be a struggle to drag yourself away from the peace and quiet of your treetop refuge, there’s plenty to do in the county of La Selva too. Those looking for more adventure can opt to climb even higher into the canopies at La Selva de l’Aventura, a treetop park featuring rope ladders, aerial walkways, zip lines and more. The area also benefits from a series of walking and mountain biking routes traversing the local countryside. For a more leisurely excursion, the capital of La Selva, Santa Coloma de Farners, is home to an abundance of natural springs. The area’s oldest balneari (spa), at Hotel Balneari Termes Orion, is an elegant affair, steeped in history— the spa’s healing waters were even used to treat soldiers during the Peninsular War against Napoleon’s empire. The treehouses at Cabanes als arbres book up months in advance, so be sure to get planning early. More information at cabanesalsarbres.com.
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restaurant review
RESTAURANT REVIEW
MERCER RESTAURANT FROM ROMAN RUINS A NEW CATALAN CUISINE IS BORN By Sam Zucker
G
erman-born, but Catalan-raised Harry Wieding recently took over the kitchen of the Mercer Hotel Barcelona (a five-star property in the heart of the city’s Gothic Quarter, set within the original Roman wall of Barcino), and immediately made changes to the menu of his predecessor, Michelin-starred Italian chef Giuseppe Iannotti. Having grown up in Blanes, the ‘Gateway to the Costa Brava’, chef Wieding loves local, seasonal ingredients—especially from the sea—as well as local wine. Inspired by the primal, grill-only cooking techniques made famous by chef Victor Arguinzoniz at his Basque restaurant Etxebarri, chef Wieding quickly began cooking as many dishes as possible over olive and cherry wood coals. With the help of stainless steel pots, which he has drilled with holes, delicate foods like oysters and sea urchins can be gently cooked over a smoky fire without them falling apart or being over done. To get an extra kick of smoke, numerous dishes are also finished with a light brushing of house-smoked sunflower oil. Chef Wieding’s menu is engineered to orbit around an axis of Catalan staples like asparagus, peas, sea urchin, foie gras and prawns, and the restaurant’s 130-bottle wine list is now much more locally focused. However, the introduction of ingredients like ginger, wasabi, pickles, lime and tempura batter, while somewhat predictable in the current climate of Barcelona fine dining, added elements of
surprise to dishes that appeared quite straightforward at first glance. Simple bites like the raw turnip slices garnished with a paste of anchovy and wasabi were unexpectedly pleasant and showed an understanding of how to control understated flavours. Our meal began with an assortment of snacks; the turnip slices were accompanied by green and tangy pickled radish fruit that popped in my mouth as I separated the tiny pods from their stems, as well as room-temperature slices of roasted duck breast topped with dollops of anchovy-rich Café de Paris butter sauce and lime zest, and a little ceramic bowl from which a few crispy stems of tempura asparagus sprouted. Of all these first flavours, the pickled radish fruit—my first experience with this siliqua (the young seed pod of the radish)—was the most unusual. Next came a parmentier of potato with smoked trout roe and fennel. I enjoyed the smoky, briny flavour of the roe, and the fennel added a subtle herbal complexity to the dish, but the potato fell somewhere between a purée and a foam, and could have been a bit lighter and more emulsified, in my opinion. The parmentier was followed by a single, plump, fried oyster, bristling with crispy panko bread crumbs and surrounded by dots of salty-sweet eel sauce (and more Café de Paris sauce), and draped in fine filaments of candied lime peel. This dish had a mild flavour but was without a fault and disappeared in one delicious, juicy bite.
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MORE INFO
Lledó 7 T. 93 310 7480 mercerbarcelona.com Tues-Sat 1.30pm-3.30pm and 7.30pm-11pm ✪✪✪✪
Photos courtesy of Mercer Barcelona
✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED
Chef Wieding’s menu is engineered to orbit around an axis of Catalan staples like asparagus, peas and sea urchin Following suit with the rest of the city, beautiful spring peas from the Maresme (just north of Barcelona) made several appearances here, both on the set menu and the à la carte. Ours were served as a vivid green, naturally sweet and silky smooth purée, studded with vibrant orange sea urchin roe bathed in the previously-mentioned smoked sunflower oil. I love all of these ingredients, but the normally undisguisable taste of uni was a bit overshadowed by the mouthfilling flavour of tender baby peas at the height of freshness. After the pea purée came my favourite dish of the evening, and
perhaps the most simple: a heaping bowl of smoked mussels, cooked over hot coals and then lightly steamed, sprinkled with a pinch of chopped chives and plenty of slightly piquant espelette pepper. Also drizzled with a bit of the smoked oil, these were a joy to eat, especially as there was plenty of crusty sourdough bread on hand to soak up the leftover cooking liquid, which tasted of a seaside campfire (if such a thing could be tasted). To round out the savoury portion of the meal, a perfectlycooked breast of Berguedà chicken was served with roasted morel mushrooms, baby broad beans and rigatoni stuffed with chicken rillette. I thought that the chicken itself was superb, but I almost would have preferred the rillette spread on a toasted croûton with a few drops of olive oil to add some fat to it and another textural dynamic to the dish. Dessert was wonderful—a perfect, light-yet-fulfilling end to the meal. Ripe and sweet strawberries were served with an aromatic veil of rose water and accompanied by a rich sheep’s milk ice cream with a crunchy bit of crumble underneath. The final petit fours and assorted cookies and gelées were faultless, as was the coffee, sending us off with an all-around elegant experience that, for €75 per person, is certainly recommendable to anyone looking for a special, modern fine dining meal with exceptional service that doesn’t come with a three-month waiting list or a significantly higher price tag.
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QUICK BITES
BOBO PULPÍN
OCTOPUS ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT By Sam Zucker MORE INFO
Freneria 5 Tel. 93 639 3213 bobopulpin.com Tues-Sat 12pm-11.30pm Sunday 12pm-4pm
W The Grup Iglesias restaurateurs have conceptualised an entire eatery whose menu revolves around octopus
ith a cartoon octopus as its mascot and a discrete locale tucked behind the Cathedral of Barcelona, Bobo Pulpín may have inadvertently flown under the radar of Barcelona’s cadre of restaurant hunters, trendsetters and foodobsessed Instagrammers. But no longer. After one taste of its crispy tapa of fried octopus head and bull de pulpo (a pork rib and octopus sausage), it’s not hard to recognise the skill and creativity that have become the Iglesias brothers’ signature attributes, which I now want to proclaim far and wide. Bobo Pulpín is a spin-off of Cañota, part of the Grup Iglesias restaurant empire, which also includes Rías de Galicia, espai Kru, Bellavista del Jardín del Norte, and all the Adrià restaurants (Tickets, Pakta, Enigma, etc.). The restaurateurs have now conceptualised an entire eatery whose menu revolves around octopus—a dynamic component that pays homage to their Galician roots. The cornerstone of Bobo Pulpín’s eccentric menu is an offering of six octopus dishes from six countries, held
up by a smattering of other tapas, both familiar and foreign. From Mexico and Peru, you have the chilled, ceviche-style octopus cocktail and the ‘Sanguchito’ (a sandwich of fried octopus on black octopus ink bread with cilantro mayonnaise). The Indian recipe is an octopus tikka masala curry with chickpeas, while the ‘Sweet and Sour’ octopus with bamboo shoots hails from China. Of course the Korean dish is spiked with kimchi, and the classic Galician dish of ‘polbo á feira’ (boiled octopus and potatoes with paprika and olive oil) represents Spain, as is to be expected. All the dishes I tried were executed with precision and downright delicious. Mix in an assortment of the house brand of conservas such as razor clams with pickled hot peppers, some classic tapas (the traditional Galician empanada of tuna is a must), a hearty serving of chicken and foie gras canelón or an octopus and sobrassada mollete sandwich, and plenty of wine or vermouth, and you have an impressive menu whose biggest fault is that it makes it too hard to choose.
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tour
GIN ROUTE BCN Get your fill of the best handcrafted gins on this bar tour
T
he G&T took centre stage as one of Barcelona’s most popular drinks a few years ago, and the city is still teeming with bars dedicated to the classic cocktail. Gin enthusiast Mike Braff affectionately refers to Barcelona as ‘Gin City’, drawing his inspiration for the Gin Route from the city’s obsession with the spirit. He began by creating a platform for a new breed of microdistillery for small-batch, artisan gin producers to showcase their products. This led to the inception of a Gin Lovers club, aimed at promoting brand awareness and introducing new types and flavours of gin to the public. The club proved successful and flourished into monthly mixology sessions, paving the way for the Gin Route. The Gin Route takes you on a tour of four clandestine bars within one barrio, each carefully selected by Braff for their authenticity. Each speakeasy bar offers tastings, followed by an artisan gin cocktail, allowing you to try a variety of flavours and combinations from the best small-batch, award-winning distilleries around. The guides are well-versed on the historical role of gin, and will talk you through different gins encountered along the tour, encouraging any questions throughout. The tour lasts approximately three hours, and tickets are priced at €40 per person. The upcoming Gin Route will take place on June 16th, unveiling the best gin bars of Poble-sec. Metropolitan can reveal that two of the bars included in the tour will be La Bombilla and Xixbar. The popularity of the Gin Route has already led to more bars wanting to participate, making each edition of the event more surprising and diverse. Gin Route Barcelona also has plans for popup events in Madrid and other cities across the country, in addition to several local events including Afternoon Gin Teas, Sundown Jazz and Cocktails, and a mystery cruise soon to be announced. To reserve a place on the next Gin Route, visit ginroutebcn.com.
(3 =39 ;%28 83 0)%62 %2( ,%&0%6 74%2-7,# Spanish courses for adults in Poblenou DELE preparation Small groups
General courses Intensive courses
Specialized courses (Art, History Cinema...)
One-to-One lessons Business Spanish
Llull 187, 08005 T. (+34) 668 80 46 89
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info@olympialanguages.com ww.olympialanguages.com
5/24/17 1:37 PM
RECIPE
PAN FRIED TURBOT AND ASPARAGUS WITH SALSA VERDE
(serves 6)
I
tend to think that us foreigners don't eat enough fish at home, something to do with the perception that it is difficult to cook. Here in Barcelona though, where people are passionate about seafood, you can ask your fishmonger to do the hard work for you and I promise you’ll never look back. This dish works well with any of the meatier fish—swordfish, tuna or mackerel, all of which are great on the barbecue too—and is the work of mere minutes. I’ve used farmed turbot because for me, it really is the king of fish, and farmed is the most sustainable way to enjoy it. You get four fillets out of each fish, which makes it go further than you might expect, and it also works particularly well with the last of the season’s asparagus.
INGREDIENTS 2 bunches asparagus 3 medium-sized farmed turbot, filleted Large knob butter Olive oil Salt + pepper For the salsa verde Large bunch parsley
Large bunch basil 2 cloves garlic 2 tbsp capers 2 tbsp chopped gherkins 3 anchovies 2-3 tbsp sherry vinegar Pinch salt Good glug olive oil
IN SEASON
JUNE: FARMED TURBOT, WILD MACKEREL, ASPARAGUS, PEACHES, WATERMELON
METHOD 1. To make the salsa verde, combine all the ingredients together in a blender or food processor and blitz. (Don’t overdo it, you don’t want it too smooth.) 2. Check for balance (it should be bright, but not too acidic)—add more oil if you need to. 3. Snap off the woody part of the asparagus spears, then sauté in batches in olive oil and butter until just tender (about 3 minutes). 4. Set aside and keep warm. 5. Pat the turbot fillets dry, season well then fry over medium-hot heat in the same pan, skin side down, with a touch more oil and butter. 6. When the skin is brown (about 2 minutes), flip over onto the flesh side and fry for another minute. 7. Set aside and keep warm. 8. Repeat until all of the fillets are cooked through. 9. Split the asparagus spears between six plates and top with two turbot fillets each. 10. Drizzle with salsa verde and serve with baby roast potatoes.
Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.
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ADVERTISING FEATURE
F
TOTORA
rom the northern coast of Peru to the Eixample of Barcelona - this is the journey that Totora will take you on. A restaurant where authentic Peruvian cooking awaits, with Japanese touches, tastes of the sea, and a menu full of cebiche, ‘tiraditos’ (raw fish sashimi) and other specialities from the Andean country’s rich cuisine. It is all overseen by the chef Pablo Ortega and lead by the dynamic drivers of the project, Antonio Aramburu and Patricia Vega. The blue of the ocean is present everywhere, including in its name, a reference to the traditional handcrafted boats made by fishermen in the north of Peru known as ‘caballitos de Totora.’ As a matter of fact, an authentic caballito de Totora, handcrafted for the restaurant, is what greets dinner guests - a majestic spectacle in the entrance of the establishment. Totora, known for being one of Barcelona’s trendiest local restaurants, occupies one of the biggest and most spectacular culinary spaces in the city. Its grand 700m2 floor space offers different areas to clients, including an entrance with comfy chairs and low tables, a long bar where you can watch the preparation behind the Peruvian classic, pisco sour, and other cocktails alongside many cold dishes (cebiches, makis and more), and two large dining rooms with views of either the kitchen or garden terrace. In terms of the dishes, the restaurant is loyal to its Peruvian roots, and offers a wide range
of cebiche (classic, seafood, tuna, tempura), ‘tiraditos’ (sea bass with tiger’s milk, a Peruvian sauce, salmon, tuna tataki), Peruvian layered potato dishes with prawns, octopus, halibut, and the classic tuna belly dish from Lima, as well as makis and nigiris, a clear reference to its Japanese influence. The most elaborate specialities are the hot dishes, created by none other than Pablo Ortega, who has adorned Totora’s menu with the authentic tastes of the sea, always perfected with modern touches and refined creativity. A fusion of traditional Peruvian recipes with cutting-edge cuisine, all the dishes are created with ingredients of the highest quality. Notable dishes include the veal shank, parmesan scallops, ‘chalaca’ razor clams, kumquats with red prawns, Naylamp sea bass (filled with prawns on a bed of broccoli, asparagus, peppers, peas, mushrooms, orange salsa, soya and oysters) and the Siu Mai Chan Chan (steamed Chinese appetisers filled with prawns and squid with ginger, soya, and oyster sauce.) Other house specialities include the ‘Piqueo del Puerto’ (mixed cebiche, pork crackling and layered potatoes), kebab prawn nigiri and tataki ‘tiraditos’ with tuna or the ‘cebichero’ maki. Totora is not only Barcelona’s Peruvian restaurant of the moment gastronomically speaking, but is also full of activity that brings the establishment to life.
Carrer de Còrsega 235, 08036 Tel. 93 667 4372
LEARN TO COOK AT TOTORA
MENU OF THE DAY Price: €17.50 for a starter, main, drinks and dessert or coffee. Average price: € 30-35 OPEN Monday to Friday from 1pm to 3.30pm and 8pm to 11.30pm. Sundays from 1pm to 3:30pm and 8pm to 11pm.
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Totora isn’t just a Peruvian restaurant, it strives to be a slice of Peru that shares its cuisine with all different cultures. One of the ways it does this is with its cooking masterclasses. The chef Pablo Ortega and his team teach groups of up to 30 people the secrets of how to make the restaurant’s most popular dishes, including cebiche, Peruvian layered potato dishes, ‘tiraditos’ and other house specialities. In these practical classes you will make your own dish that you can enjoy with the rest of dinner.
5/24/17 11:01 AM
NEFW &D
FOOD DRINK
& IN
Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has a night for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40 food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking
Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com
NEFW &D IN
ÁNDELE - EIXAMPLE
MENEGHINA4BORN
Part of the Ándele Group, this new, modern restaurant in Barcelona’s Eixample district offers an authentic, traditional Mexican cuisine. It combines traditional recipes with new, continuing to surprise and delight diners, whilst ensuring high quality ingredients for every dish. The restaurant also features an attractive bar, where you can enjoy a full selection of tequilas, mescals and various premium distillates used to create delicious cocktails. Average menu price 20 and lunch menu available from 12.90.
Located on a quaint side street close to the convent of Sant Agusti in El Born, Meneghina offers an exciting and innovative combination of Italian and Catalan flavours, tempting desserts and an extensive selection of wines in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh seasonal produce, which changes on a daily basis.
París 147. 08036 Tel. 93 277 8766 info@andele.es www.andele.es
Tiradors 2 I T. 93 119 2221 hola@meneghina.es I www.meneghina.es www.facebook.com/meneghinas Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm
BAR CENTRO4 EIXAMPLE Bar Centro offers a unique experience when you indulge in one of their burgers. 40-day aged beef of Galician ‘Vaca Vieja’ cooked on the grill is a must-try. Eight craft beer taps go hand in hand with their gastronomic proposal. Don’t miss all four versions of their pulled pork, the homemade nachos, the chilli or the bravas! Everything is handcrafted. Casp 55. 08010 Metro Tetuan/ Urquinaona Tel. 93 192 5255 www.barcentrobcn.com barcentrobcn@gmail.com Mon-Wed 1pm-11pm Thurs-Fri 1pm-11.30pm Sat 8pm-12am
BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.
Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com
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BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA Blacklab have a huge range of American Style craft beers made on premises with a Minnesotan brewer. They experiment with their brews like a beer lab. They have four beers all year around, 16 rotating seasonals. Their beer is poured directly from the tanks and you won’t find anything fresher. Their kitchen is non stop and doesn’t close during opening hrs. They serve tasty American Food with Asian touch. Beer tour and beer tasting with their brewers every Sunday at 17h. Also available for big groups at any day.
Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es
5/24/17 11:15 AM
FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC
MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC
Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.
Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.
Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com
Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm
Indian / Tandoori CAFÉ MENSSANA4 CIUTAT VELLA
NICE SPICE4POBLENOU Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food ,which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.
At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options, created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere. Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona
Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Open everday 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm
BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA
SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Take Away Shop Healthy food cooked in store to take away. Their food begins with ingredients that have been sourced for their freshness and quality. They support local ecological providers. Their dishes are a representation of the seasons and they strive to provide fresh dishes prepared on a daily basis. Check the website for the current menu. Business Catering Súper is specialised in catering for business events and meetings of any size. Contact info@superbcn.es for a detailed overview. Roc Boronat 102, 08018 | Tel: 933 099 838 Mon - Fri: 8am - 6pm | www.superbcn.es | @ superbcnes
Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es
Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es
Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA
GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC
Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.
Founded over 30 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.
Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es
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Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es
AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables and homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.90, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.80. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com
5/24/17 11:15 AM
LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE
TAP DE SURO4EIXAMPLE
Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.
Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.
Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm
Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm
MALPASO4EIXAMPLE This restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend. Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am
CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER4 BARRI GÒTIC Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards.
Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com
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FOR THE BEST BARS, CAFES, AND RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE A-Z DIRECTORY
5/24/17 11:15 AM
HEALTH &BEAUTY
Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR
Doctor for Adults
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers, and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians
Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040
Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST
Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY
Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, enuresis (bed wetting) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offer specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders.
The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of surgical dermatology and venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics.
Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista
Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com
Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com
ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working in the health industry and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.
ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest
Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com
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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.
Carrer de L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm
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FREE CONSULTATION
Dr. Boj - DENTIST
Orthoestetic - DENTIST
Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.
The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their extensive experience, allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in dental aesthetics, and orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults. She is certified by the Invisalign system.
Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org
Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es
Platinum Provider
Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY
Goldie Uttamchandani LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH
Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free.
Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certified Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary first session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness. M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com
Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es
NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS
NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS
The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST membersare English speakers that have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also speak Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com
Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH
Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST
SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a foreign country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.
New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of first-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.
NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com
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50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT
Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com
5/24/17 11:12 AM
Yoga con Gracia - YOGA
Barcelona Quiropractic
An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.
- CHIROPRACTOR Barcelona Quiropractic and its professional team have been serving the Barcelona community since 1995. They value quality service, efficiency and dedication, delivering the best results in the shortest time possible. The team provides a professional, yet friendly and family-oriented environment, catering to a wide range of patients. They aim to promote the integration of chiropractic into your lifestyle, to maintain health and wellbeing. Contact them for more information.
www.yogacongracia.com
Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA
READER OFFER
Bikram Yoga has two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, their international team brings over 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, Pral, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es
Pl. Urquinaona 7, 08010 T: 934123433 M: 601059849 info@barcelonaquiropractic.es www.barcelonaquiropractic.es
Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona. He specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has over 23 years of experience managing back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends. 30% OFF FIRST VISIT
Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402 Info@sarriaquiropractica.com http://sarriaquiropractica.es/
READER OFFER
Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST
Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre, located in the Sants district, is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com Craniosacral Institute - OSTEOPATHY
Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difficult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session. M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net
The institute provides services in Craniosacral Osteopathy, SomatoEmotional Release, and Massage Rebalancing, working holistically. The Institute delivers over 22 years’ experience of individual sessions to adults, children and babies. M. 689786519 / 639775218 www.craneosacral-panizo.com/en/ http://www.terapias-adam.com/en/
Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reflexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com
Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com
READER OFFER
Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST & COACH
Symmetry Pilates - PILATES
Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information
Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Most of the day we are sitting down at our computers, or in our cars. But, have you ever asked yourself whether you are sitting properly? Most back pain starts from the way we sit and from sitting for too long. Learn to sit correctly and your quality of life will improve. Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this trendy new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.
Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat
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READER OFFER
República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com
Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com
5/24/17 11:12 AM
Oliver Dawson CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.
Georgina Weinstein VOICE COACH Georgina offers “Tone of Voice Coaching” to speakers, teachers, executives, singers, coaches, and anyone who wants to improve their abilities to communicate clearly.This includes techniques to achieve more volume, pitch, stage presence and confidence while practicing texts, songs and/or subjects that interest the student. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their confidence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English.
Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com
FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK
M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com
Tàctum - HAIR SALON
The Vital Touch - MASSAGE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
Located in Gràcia, this friendly and welcoming salon has everything you need to feel special. They work together with clients to create a look that reflects their individual style and personality. They are experts in curly hair, hair colouring and above all the use of progressive vegetable hair dye, which harnesses the purity of water. They can also advise you on the cut that best suits you.
10% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
Torrent de L’Olla 85 (Metro Joanic) T. 93 217 9316 tactum@tacum.cat Tues-Thurs 10.30am-8.30pm Fri-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm www.tactum.es
Heaven - MASSAGE Ready to feel fantastic for spring? Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!
FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS
M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com
Lovecycle FITNESS LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating fitness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!
READER OFFER
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FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING HEALTH & BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Doctors - Dentists - Psychologists Chiropractors - Therapists Yoga - Pilates Reflexology - Massage Fitness - Hair salons
Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com
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BUSINESS SERVICES
BCN Seguros - INSURANCE This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, English and German.
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT
Spain Accounting-
• Barcelona’s premier network for international women. • Approx. 200 members from 20+ countries. • As a social club that supports local organisation, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and networking & promotional opportunities. We help women thrive in Barcelona.
Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service
TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES
Supported charities 2016 - 2018
Contact David Cook on M. 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com
membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com
president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com
READER OFFER Klev & Vera - LAW FIRM
Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE
This firm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. It understands that starting a business in a foreign country can be daunting, especially in Spain, where the system is complicated and taxes can be a hindrance. This is where their experience in advising international clients how to set up businesses in Spain can help you make smarter decisions, saving you thousands of euros in the long term.
The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
They have a multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: Real Estate, Business Set Up, Spanish Residency, Family Law, Litigation, Tax Planning. Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com
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Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
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NIE Barcelona
- BUSINESS
NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.
Corsa International DRIVING SCHOOL Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!
Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com
PWN Barcelona - NON PROFIT PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer Mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certified virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.
Master Cerrajeros
-
LOCKSMITH
Locked out? Master Cerrajeros are English-speaking specialists who provide emergency lock replacement services at competitive rates, 24/7. They work with locks for metal shutters, automatic systems, safety doors, security systems, fences and balconies, access control and more.
www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/
M. 607 886 622 www.mastercerrajeros.com
Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS
Garment Printing - BUSINESS
They can help… Create your perfect living or work space. Get the most out of your investment. Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment. Deal with paperwork and permits. Manage the building works and costs. Choose the best firm for the job. Coordinate with the neighbours. Get in touch for more information.
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international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/
Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! Whether you’re a business or an individual, they can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today.
Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com
Roger De Flor 289 T. 93 393 8194 www.garmentprinting.es
Handyman - HOME SERVICES
Geo Mac - COMPUTERS
Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.
George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
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Gabor Arato REMOVAL SERVICES Gabor can help with any removal work no matter the size, providing transportation and removal services for anyone located within Barcelona or just outside. He offers competitive prices of only €15 per hour. Contact now for more information and special offers.
M. 633 596 188 gabsmudanzas@gmail.com
Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS
Yacht Point Barcelona - SAILING SCHOOL
Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience in the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!
Yacht Point RYA Training Centre is a leading provider of online navigation theory courses & sailing tuition in Barcelona. They offer: - Online navigation theory courses & Sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. Their courses are suitable for complete beginners to advanced sailors. ‘We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!’
Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422 info@fabricadeflyers.com www.fabricadeflyers.com
T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com http://yachtpointbcn.com/en/rya-training-centre/
Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES
Mrs.Q Design Studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN
Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs.
Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q designs bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Their designs are inspired by watercolour paintings merged with contemporary design. If you would like a custom painting, designed especially for you, they can create a design that you’re sure to love. Visit their Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.
Coccinelle is a reference in the domestic staff sector, that’s why more than 700 families have trusted in their services. You can arrange everything from the comfort of your own home. Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation
Pau Claris 151 M. 93 010 9758 Info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com
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mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio
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Oak House - SCHOOL
BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL
Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.
BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.
Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com
Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com
BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com
Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more.
FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING BUSINESSES IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Lawyers - Accountants - Language schools Business schools - Computer technicians Real estate - Insurance - Electricians Plumbers - Graphic design Driving schools - Sailing schools Babysitting services - Translators International schools - Printing services
ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com
Connecta Languages - TRANSLATORS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualified linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact them today and say goodbye to language barriers. M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages.com
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JOB
DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our free classifieds
www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com
COACHING COLUMN
SAM SAYS... WHEN IN DOUBT, ASK AN EXPERT Dear Sam, I’m a physical mess. Summer is approaching and I’d love to be able to enjoy all the activities the city has to offer, but I don’t feel well. My back hurts, I’m always tired, I’m overweight and as you can see, I’m grumpy. I realise you might not specialise in physically feeling good, but I’d love any thoughts you might have concerning my questions below. Thanks so much for your help, Master Mess
Hi Master Mess, I’m sorry that you’re not feeling well. As you said, I’m not an expert in physical health, so I’ve enlisted the help of two leaders in their fields from Pabulum Health (pabulumhealth. com). Mariah Quesada is a health coach and plant-based chef, who specialises in holistic approaches to wellness, and Shay O’Malley is a physiotherapist, who focuses on sports and musculoskeletal issues. I defer to these ladies to answer your questions. Q: What can I do to stop feeling so tired? Mariah: I would first ask if you’re getting enough sleep. If you are, some other possible reasons for your lack of energy might show up on a blood test. Many vitamin and mineral deficiencies, such as iron, vitamin D and B12, can make you feel sluggish. Also, a nutrientpoor diet, full of processed and refined foods, will have a great impact on your blood sugar levels and throw you into a spiral of energy ups and downs. Poor diet, a sedentary lifestyle and high stress levels can all lead to Metabolic Syndrome (i.e. insulin resistance, type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular disease, etc.), which can also make you feel tired and have a harder time losing weight. Q: My back’s in constant pain. Are there any exercises or stretches I can do to try and alleviate it? Shay: I recommend that you get your back looked at by a musculoskeletal therapist. There are many different types of back problems and causes, and while some exercises and stretches may alleviate one condition, they could aggravate another. I always work to find the muscle imbalance causing the movement dysfunction, as a dysfunctional body is like a jumbled Rubik’s Cube. Realigning the colours is like realigning all the muscles and joints in your body. Once this is done, you’ll have a stable base on which to safely exercise. Q: How can I get motivated to start taking better care of myself? Mariah: Asking for outside help takes courage and is the first step, so well done. I can’t give you the answers to what makes you feel motivated so I would suggest that you: 1. Write down why it’s important for you to lose weight and get in shape: Having a reason to do something makes it easier to implement change. 2. Make a plan: Can you workout two-three times a week? Set realistic goals, so you don’t set yourself up for failure. 3. Start with small sustainable changes: Those are the ones that are more likely to stick. 4. Have fun with it: Don’t do things that you hate just because you think it’s good for you. 5. Don’t let minor setbacks throw you off course: Practise the 80/20 rule if you need to. Eat well 80 percent of the time and allow yourself to eat your ‘comfort foods’ the other 20 percent. 6. Don’t go it alone: Coaches are available to keep you accountable and motivated. If you can’t afford a coach, find a friend that is already fit and healthy. Surrounding yourself with the people you want to emulate will have a more positive effect than being around people who are in the same state as you are. Q: What sports or activities would you recommend that might allow me to lose some weight but not be too hard on my back? Shay: Low impact cardiovascular exercises such as cycling, fast walking and swimming are always good options. I’m also a big fan of both pilates and yoga as they help to improve core stability and flexibility. Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com
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OUT AND ABOUT INTERVIEW
guiri business QUINTO QUINTA. MAY 17TH
rafael aND michelle
mauricio aND moNica
Barcelona City FM website launch party GARAGE 442. MAY 2ND
eDvarDaS, aNaroSa, jaSmiN aND riccarDo
Wilma, michelle aND charlotte
caSt
By Ben Rowdon
SCOOP
Steve, aNDrea aND jim
@ Anna Biosca
opening night of 1984 VERSUS TEATRE. MAY 19TH.
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