SEPTEMBER 2017 Nº 248
FREE
BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
STRENGTH IN
DIVERSITY BARCELONA’S ROMA COMMUNITY SEPTEMBER 11TH A GUIDE TO LA DIADA
NORTH OF THE BORDER A SHORT SÉJOUR IN CÉRET
POLYGLOT TOTS
RAISING MULTILINGUAL CHILDREN
PLUS! ART 01 cover 2.indd 1
MUSIC
SHOPPING
NEW IN TOWN
STREETLIFE
RESTAURANT REVIEWS
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CONTENTS
ISSUE 248 · SEPTEMBER 2017
IN THE CITY
20 REPORT: ROMA RHYTHMS
The lowdown on Catalunya’s national day.
06 08 11 12 15 16 19 46
44 XAVI CASTELLS
WHAT’S ON
Rae Bathgate talks identity, activism and culture with Barcelona’s long-established Roma community.
25 3D PRINTING Making dreams a reality just got easier.
26 LA DIADA
An interview with the English-speaking stand-up comedian from Valencia.
32 36 40 42
48 MULTILINGUAL CHILDREN A major benefit to raising kids in Barcelona.
New in town Streetlife Five things A place of my own History Best of Shopping Photo essay
Music Art Misc Calendar
WORKING LIFE 53 Startup of the month 54 Networking for women 57 A day in the life
TRAVEL 58 A weekend in Ceret 62 Hot air ballooning
FOOD & DRINK 64 Restaurant review 66 Quick bites 68 Recipe
Barcelona gallery weekend P.36
METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Founder Esther Jones Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Carol Moran Contributing Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Sales Director Jalil Alui Client Care Manager Aminah Barnes Sales Mauricio Valadares Ortiz, Alvi Zolizzi Digital Analyst Richard Cardwell Editorial Assistants Katherine Benson, Garry Gallon, Abelia Leskin, Charlotte Stace Design Assistant Niki Ortiz, Valeria Kalinova Contributors Misty Barker, Rae Bathgate, Rosalind Bond, Paul Cannon, Eimear Corrigan, Elizabeth Hlavinka, Catherine Howley, Helen Iles, Sam Mednick, Victoria Politi Williams, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Donnchadh Tiernan, Amelia Wynne, Sam Zucker Photographer Lewis Gregory Illustrator Ben Rowdon Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96
GARRY GALLON Garry hails from the Scottish Highlands. He completed a degree in film and media with Spanish at the University of Stirling in 2011, and went on to study screenwriting in Edinburgh and James Franco’s film school, Studio 4, in Los Angeles. After completing a student exchange in Barcelona in 2010, he couldn’t wait to come back. He has now lived in the city for four years, teaching English and pursuing his passion for writing alongside. Lots of subjects draw his interest, particularly film, history and social issues.
ROSALIND BOND Originally from Oxfordshire, UK, Rosie studied French and Spanish at the University of Manchester, which gave her the opportunity to live abroad, first in Paris and then in Buenos Aires. She loved the experience so much that when she finished her degree she decided to move again, this time to Barcelona. She loves exploring the city and discovering hidden places, something writing for Metropolitan helps her to do. Other than writing, she likes travelling, reading and her latest hobby, swing dancing.
PAUL CANNON Originally from England’s Black Country, Paul arrived in Barcelona in the early 2000s and soon found himself doing a range of unexpected jobs. Painting boats in the port, doing live football commentary and leading tour groups were just some of his many short-lived careers. His website, www.thevisigoth.com, offers a critical review of news and culture in his adopted homeland. His favourite things, in no particular order, are river-swimming, mountain rambles, football and ‘shapely Romanesque apses’.
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IN THE CITY
new in town
FUSION FLAVOURS Big KoKKa. Passatge Mercantil 1. GRUPOSANTELMO.COM When head chefs Juan Otivo and Kyoko Li came together to create Big Kokka, they didn’t just start a restaurant, they fused their cultures into a tasty menu of modern Japanese-Peruvian cuisine. A sister restaurant to Kokka, Grupo San Telmo’s small nikkei bar in the Gothic Quarter, Big Kokka is located in the Born. The striking, colourful interior is impressive, with windows that frame views of the Parc de la Ciutadella, creating the feeling of dining in a lush garden. The menu offers unconventional pairings, such as oysters and tuna ceviche with miso tiger milk and tangerine or the Kokka salad, which combines quinoa, cucumber seaweed, turnip and ginger pickles. It also includes veal and tuna sirloins, veggie dishes, tiraditos and plenty of sushi.
MODERN MAN tHe Man caVe. DiPUtaciÓ 310. THEMANCAVE.ES A decidedly masculine centre that provides pampering without the frills. Co-owners and managers of The Man Cave, Santiago Ginzo and Sergi Nogales, spotted a gap in the market and put their marketing and finance backgrounds to work to create a centre dedicated to men’s aesthetics. There is no shortage of barber shops in the city but, up until recently, Barcelona lacked a space dedicated to male beauty care. Ginzo emphasised that the aim of The Man Cave is “to make men feel as comfortable as they would feel hanging out at a friend’s house.” Nogales added that they hope to “demystify ideas about male personal aesthetics.” Since opening earlier this year, laser hair removal treatments have been popular with younger clients, while facial and body treatments are the preferred choice with those aged 40 and over. Every appointment is personalised, and includes a skin analysis in order to help choose the right treatments and products for each client.
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SPIN OFF tHe sPinning Yogis. traVessera De grĂ cia 209. ďƒœ THESPINNINGYOGIS.COM Balance is the key to a healthy lifestyle. It is also central to The Spinning Yogis, a new cycling and yoga studio in GrĂ cia. Founded by Dr. Thelma Polyviou, a nutritionist who specialises in sports physiology, it is thought that yoga and cycling complement each other. While spinning classes build endurance and increase overall fitness, yoga improves body awareness and flexibility, and counteracts closed hips and shoulders developed from cycling. “Every activity works different parts of the body,â€? said Polyviou. “Yoga doesn’t cancel out cycling—they are complementary. We want to offer a holistic approach and believe everyone deserves to know how their body works.â€? The studio also offers fitness tests that analyse diet and activity levels, so that each client can determine a personalised fitness programme. All this is offered in a comfortable studio, with small class sizes so that you can get to know the instructors, and a cafe where you can grab a post-workout smoothie on your way out.
Spanish courses for adults in Poblenou DELE preparation Small groups
General courses Intensive courses
Specialized courses (Art, History Cinema...)
One-to-One lessons Business Spanish
Llull 187, 08005 T. (+34) 668 80 46 89
info@olympialanguages.com www.olympialanguages.com
HONEST FOOD PePa Pla. ariBaU 41. ďƒœ PEPPAPLA.CAT The fourth in the successful group of Pla restaurants, the Pepa Pla wine bistro owes its charm to its open and honest ethos. Housed in a converted bookstore, the original tile flooring, wooden beams and bookshelves create a cosy feel. Sit at the back and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen, or discover the urban garden where vegetables are grown for use in the restaurant. Natural products are top of the list here— innovative dishes are created with fresh, seasonal ingredients, delicately cooked—and the carefully sourced wine selection is free from preservatives. The tapas-style menu includes marinated mackerel with fennel, an octopus sandwich with romesco sauce and homemade desserts made with local liquors. The international staff add a taste of their home countries to the off-the-menu specials, such as carne apache, a Mexican-style beef tartare. “There are no rules here, everything is instinctive and fun, but with style,â€? explained in-house sommelier Camila Espinoza.
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IN THE CITY
streetlife
CARRER DEL PORTAL NOU
No 20
A bohemian, cobbled street lined with multi-coloured bollards and artsy graffiti, Portal Nou is home to trendy shops, quirky art galleries, and mouth-watering treats.
Lolita Bakery
For seven years, Lolita Bakery has been a beloved mainstay on Portal Nou, offering up a variety of American-style sweet treats. According to cake-maker Eugenia, not much has changed in that time, at least in the delicious and creative cakes they make, although Lolita has recently changed from a table service pasteleria, to a made-to-order business. “We decided it was the best way forward. Before, people mostly ordered to collect, and we didn’t have a lot of demand for table service.” The bakery has also seen a change in product demand: their famous cupcakes used to be the favourite order, now it’s a bit of everything. “I have couples in here every day wanting to talk about wedding cakes, for example. And now I have the space for a big wooden table where I can show them samples and find them the perfect cake for their big day.” lolitabakery.com
PLAÇA DE SANT AUGUSTÍ VELL
No 23
No 10
Pony Cafè
Enjoy Vegan
Just off Plaça de Sant Augustí Vell, tucked under the porticoes that line one side of the street, Eat Vegan is a small, inviting space that specialises in take-away. “We have around a 50 percent mix of tourists and locals. Some people come a long way just to have a good vegan meal,” said waiter Alex. “They appreciate the healthy and full-flavoured taste of robust vegan cooking.” Some have a hard time believing their bestsellers, such as the lasagna or chocolate cake, are vegan. “It’s always nice when non-vegans realise how good vegan food can be,” Alex laughed. enjoyveganbcn.com
Pony café has earned a reputation on the street as the hip place to have a beer. “It can get pretty busy. People spill out onto the street, but we cram them back in,” laughed Eva, the barmaid, whose brother opened Pony 11 years ago. The clientele is young, the craft beer is flowing, and the decoration is somewhat edgy: a deformed cherub doll stares out from behind the bar, and a poster of the film Freaks (1932) takes up one wall. What makes Pony stand out? “People tell us we have good taste in music, they seem to like our playlists,” revealed Eva. And what makes Pony fit in on Portal Nou? “There is a little bit of an alternative vibe here. We love the tattoo parlour up the road. We all get on well.” facebook.com/PonyCafe
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No 29
Galería Maxó
An atmospheric space bursting with life, colour and energy, walking into Galería Maxó is a little like stepping into Geppetto’s workshop, especially in the back space, where there is an actual toy-making room. Opened by Argentinian artist Max Rennella in 2009, the gallery walls are covered with framed 3D artwork, and the shelves are lined with metallic figurines, which look like they are from another era but were, in fact, made in-house. An electric train whizzes overhead on a track that circulates the whole room. “It’s magical,” said Sara, a customer visiting from Denmark. “I want to buy something but everything is so pretty I can’t choose!” galeriamaxo.com
No 31
Hello Mario
Mario is originally from a tiny town in Portugal, but there is nothing quiet about the friendly young man who owns and runs this brightly coloured boutique full of trendy clothes, handmade accessories, and art. “I’ve done a lot of different things in my life,” he smiled. “I studied engineering, I was in a band...I’m always looking for a new challenge.” His latest was to open up his own business, but he also wanted to create a space where he could express himself. “I’m the sort of person that always engages, makes recommendations, gives opinions. Over the years, people have complimented my tastes, so I decided to open a place that sold interesting things that I like, as well as products made by friends.” Mario points to a colourful felt wall-hanging that was made by an artist neighbour in Portugal, and then picks up a small leather wallet. “I made this myself,” he said proudly, explaining that this is his first handmade product for sale, but that he eventually wants to make more. facebook.com/hellomariobcn
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FIVE THINGS
LANGUAGE LEARNING Brush up on your language skills without going back to school
4. RADIO
Boost your listening skills by tuning in to local and national radio stations. You can absorb the nuances of language whilst eating your breakfast, doing the housework, getting the kids ready for school, driving to work and even when showering. For those with little time to study, listening to Spanish or Catalan conversations and music is a simple, effective way to improve your listening and pronunciation, and build vocabulary, whilst keeping up-to-date on local news. Try Cadena Dial (99.4 FM) or Europa FM Barcelona (94.9 FM) for popular Spanish and Latin music, and RAC 1 (87.7 FM) or Ràdio Barcelona (96.9 FM) for a mix of discussions, music and interviews.
5. LANGUAGE HACK 1. INTERCAMBIOS
For those new to language-learning, language exchanges, known as intercambios, are a popular way to learn. Often compared to speed-dating, the idea is to meet a native speaker of your target language in a neutral location, and spend half the time speaking your own language, and half speaking your new companion’s language. It’s a fun and sociable alternative to studying, and there are a number of intercambio nights on offer across the city. Every Thursday, Zafras (Girona 84) hosts a language exchange evening with free tapas; when the lights are red it’s your chance to speak Spanish, when they’re blue, English. Alternatively, finish the working week with the Friday Language Exchange in the bar of the beautiful 19th-century Estació de França. Or, for an alternative language experience, sign up for the bilingual quiz held every Thursday night at The Philharmonic English Pub (Mallorca 204), which attracts a good mix of local and foreign brainboxes.
Barcelona-based writer and founder of the educational theatre company IPA Productions, Ian Gibbs, has recently launched a monthly language-learning blog, Language Hack, on the Barcelona Metropolitan website. As a precursor to his upcoming book, Language Learning: How I managed it and how you can too, Gibbs shares his tried-and-tested tips, tricks and techniques for learning a language. He also knows a thing or two about perseverance—his last book was entitled The Sorites Principle: How to Harness the Power of Perseverance (2016)—and each post points you in the direction of fluency in simple, straight-forward steps, which can easily form part of your everyday routine.
2. VOLUNTEERING
With a vast selection of projects to choose from, including environmental issues, social work and animal care, volunteering is the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in a language, as well as make a difference. Organisations based in the city include Fundació Ana Bella, which helps women who have suffered domestic violence, Lliga per a la Protecció d’Animals i Plantes de Barcelona, which offers refuge to abandoned or mistreated animals, and Fundación de Oncología Infantil Enriqueta Villavecchia, which works to improve the quality of life of children with cancer.
3. BOOKSHOPS
Unlike learning a language through oral communication, you can take the pace at your leisure with a book. Although it takes more time and patience than speaking practice, reading allows the learner to connect the dots between grammar and vocabulary. Some good Spanish bookshops in the city include Babèlia (Villaroel 27), Laie Libreria (Pau Claris 85) and La Central (Mallorca 237). These bookshops offer a wide variety of fiction and nonfiction books, as well as in-house cafes with relaxing seating areas—perfect for finding a literary treasure. Curl up on the sofa, disconnect from the world and simply make time for yourself and a good book. You’ll be fluent in no time.
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IN THE CITY
A PLACE OF MY OWN
ENGLISH INTERIOR DESIGNER, GRAHAM COLLINS, TRANSFORMED HIS RUN-DOWN BORN APARTMENT INTO A TRANQUIL CITY HAVEN
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rom an early age, Graham Collins was inspired by his elegant spa home town of Harrogate in North Yorkshire, England. It was the town’s buildings and nature that influenced him to pursue a career in design, setting up his own interior design business. In 1996, he moved to London, and in 2004, after spending eight successful years in the city, he was ready for a change of pace. Initially planning to move to Miami, a visit to Barcelona for a friend’s birthday inspired him to move here instead. He originally planned to come for a short amount of time and learn Spanish, but ended up falling for the city. After six months, he realised it was home and decided to buy his first property here. Thirteen years on and Graham has renovated and designed countless houses and apartments in the city, both for himself and for his clients. When he arrived, one of the first things he noticed was the amount of missed opportunities when it came to space utilisation in the buildings around Barcelona. “There is a lot of inspiration in the city, whatever kind of artist you are, and yet, when you go into people’s homes, many have no idea how to take advantage of the space,” he explained. As a designer, finding a property with the ‘wow-factor’ is of utmost importance to Graham. Three years ago, he stumbled across a run-down apartment in a narrow Born side street and was enticed by the large graffitied wooden door, which opened onto a palatial courtyard entrance and winding staircase. The rotting beams and floors, along with crumbling walls, presented the perfect opportunity for Graham to exercise his creative vision from scratch. “When you are designing a home, you have to ask: what is the flat telling me?” he explained. “This space felt very relaxed, somewhere that could provide serenity in the city.” His use of natural materials, such as reclaimed wooden floors, also helped to maintain a sense of calm in the apartment. Entering the apartment, the desired sense of serenity can be felt straight away. On the left, the master bedroom, provides a peaceful private space, slightly secluded from the rest of the property. To the
right, a guest bedroom, leading to a spacious kitchen that opens up into the airy living room. Graham explained that he wanted the two most used rooms to be situated in the part of the house that would receive the most light. Well thought-out details, such as a collection of painted wooden frames on the wall and soft linen furnishings, pull the eclectic design of the house together, offsetting and softening the roughness of the exposed masonry.
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Wardrobe doors open onto a secret bathroom in the master bedroom
Working strategically with the natural light that flows through the apartment, Graham has created a tranquil city haven, using fine design details to add an element of interest and fun, as well as being practical. The sliding door between the kitchen and living room, for example, features a hand-painted palm tree by French designer, Maison Levy, transforming it into a piece of art. “These small features are how you can add character to the apartment.” The master bedroom, however, contains the apartment’s biggest surprise; the middle doors of a set of wardrobes open up to reveal a stunning hidden bathroom featuring local hand-painted tiles. The renovation of the apartment also revealed one of Graham’s favourite features. When removing plaster from one of the walls, he discovered a masonry wall behind that gave him an insight into the history of the building. The wall contains wooden beams, showing where the original roof of the building once stood, dating back to the 1700s, and is composed of a mish mash of stone and brick, some of which likely originates from the old Roman walls and Montjuïc. Graham emphasised the importance of using a design feature as a focal point in the room, something which can be challenging in Mediterranean houses. “Where I’m from, every house has a fireplace, which becomes the main feature, but that is very uncommon here,” he explained. “Here, you can generally use the view or, in this case, the wall.” Now, Graham continues to seek out interesting properties throughout the city for his clients and redesign them in a way that suits the character of each building. Having been through the process himself, he understands the ins and outs of buying a property here, and guides his clients through the process.
If you’ve made yourself an interesting home from home, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.
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HISTORY
GUARDIAN ANGEL LOCATION: PLAÇA DE L’ÀNGEL
A MESSAGE SENT FROM ABOVE LEFT ITS MARK ON THIS CITY CENTRE SQUARE By Catherine Howley
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laça de l’Àngel, a small square off Via Laietana where the entrance to the Jaume I metro station is located, owes its name to a peculiar story surrounding the first patron saint of Barcelona, Santa Eulalia. Eulalia was martyred in the year 303 at the age of 13, during the Roman persecution of Christians in Barcelona, and her remains were kept in the Basilica of Santa María del Mar in the Born. According to legend, on July 10th, 1339, the saint’s body was moved to the recently consecrated Barcelona Cathedral (also known as Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia), where she found her final resting place in the crypt. A solemn procession was organised, which was attended by kings, princes, nobles, bishops and clergy. When the procession reached the Portal Major, where Plaça de l’Àngel is now located, it is said that the casket her body was laid in became so heavy it was impossible to lift. The casket bearers could not support the mysterious load and the procession was brought to a halt, with spectators falling to their knees, calling on divine intervention. It was at this moment that an angel appeared, signalling with a pointed finger to one of the canons in the crowd. Ashamed and guilty, the canon confessed that he had stolen one of the patron saint’s toes as a relic. On returning the toe to its place in the casket, the heavy load became instantly lighter and the procession continued to the cathedral. From this moment onwards, the square became known as Plaça de l’Àngel. In 1606, an obelisk was erected in the middle of the plaça and, in 1618, a statue of an angel, sculpted by master silversmith Felip Ros, was placed on top. During the street battles of the War of Succession (1713-14), the statue suffered considerable damage. Restored in 1747, it was decided, due to increased traffic around the square, to remove the obelisk and relocate the statue of the angel. After being relocated several times, the angel was given a permanent home on display in the Museu d’Historia de Barcelona (MUHBA). However, an exact copy was created in 1966, and the finger-pointing angel still presides over the square from an alcove above no. 2 Plaça de l’Àngel to this day.
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BEST OF
JAZZ IT UP BARCELONA HAS A RICH HISTORY OF JAZZ MUSIC AND SOME LEGENDARY VENUES TO GO WITH IT LITTLE ITALY
For lovers of all things jazz, this landmark venue in the Born has to be top of the list. Like all the best bars, it would be easy to miss Little Italy. Playing live music every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 9pm, it started out as an Italian restaurant, opened in 1988 by Vicente Gómez. He realised art galleries in the area were open until late in the evening, so decided to start putting on monthly dinner concerts. Due to popular demand, these evenings soon turned into much-loved weekly events and have hosted some of the city’s best jazz performers. With the Italian cuisine as reliable as the acoustic performances, the setup “allows you to have a conversation at your table without having to shout,” Gómez explained. Without a pizza in sight, the menu is sophisticated and there is also a great range of cocktails and wines. REC 30 LITTLEITALY.ES
JAMBOREE
Few venues boast a CV quite like that of Jamboree. For half a century, it has held two performances a day, 365 days a year. The club was born in the early Sixties as a jazz cellar and quickly became influential on Barcelona’s jazz scene, attracting the likes of Bill Coleman, Kenny Drew, Chet Baker, Lou Bennet and Ornette Coleman. Every night, Jamboree hosts jazz, Latin and blues gigs by mostly Spanish artists. The popular Monday night WTF Jam Sessions are not to be missed and pull in a lively younger crowd. “Musicians who study in Barcelona know their goal: to play at Jamboree,” said Alfons Carrascosa, saxophonist and conductor of the Big Acoustic Band, resident jazz band at Jamboree. PLAÇA REIAL 17 MASIMAS.COM
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CAFÉ VIENÉS
If you want to feel like you’re starring in your very own high-budget film noir, then make a date with Café Vienés at the Hotel Casa Fuster. On Thursday nights, classy soirées present a soundtrack of classical jazz and swing played by top musicians—Woody Allen, Eddy Davis and the Yoshida Brothers have all graced the stage here. The interior of this Modernista building, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, lends itself beautifully to the occasion. Swanky and opulent, the Twenties decor provides the perfect backdrop to an evening of jazz. PG. DE GRÀCIA 132 HOTELCASAFUSTER.COM
Photo by Yan Pekar
HARLEM JAZZ CLUB
This is the one everyone has heard of, and for good reason. A stalwart of the city’s musical history and identity, Harlem features an eclectic live music programme of top local talent showing off their jazz, blues, funk and swing styles nearly every night of the week. It may not be the oldest music venue in the city, but it's certainly one of the most prolific. Known for its alluring low lighting, reasonably priced drinks and welcoming atmosphere, the legendary club in the Gothic Quarter has hosted many a future jazz star in their formative years. Singer and composer Hernán Senra, known as ‘El Chino’, leads a blues and early jazz session every Tuesday, attracting audiences from far and wide; Rod Deville plays the double bass, with Giggs Nother on the drums, alongside ‘El Chino’ on electric guitar. Night owls can stick around after the jazz is over for late-night DJ sets that never fail to get the crowds going.
Photo by Daniela Giannangelí
COMTESSA DE SOBRADIEL 8 HARLEMJAZZCLUB.ES
JAZZSÍ CLUB
Part of the Tallers de Músics music school, JazzSí Club in the Raval is an intimate addition to Barcelona’s jazz venues. For the last 25 years, it has provided upand-coming artists and young musicians with a space to share their talent with the world. The understated club has amassed some impressive statistics with its daily programme of live jazz and flamenco: 648,000 spectators, 7,200 concerts and 36,000 musicians over a quarter of a century. Not to be missed are the jam sessions every Wednesday from 7.45pm, and their popular flamenco nights on Fridays and Saturdays, from 8.45pm onwards. REQUESENS 2 TALLERDEMUSICS.COM
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Noise PAGES Lab_FullAUG page.indd 1 5 MAIN 2017.indd
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SHOPPING
BACK TO WORK
NOTEBOOK €8.50 ENTROPÍA Aribau 127 entropiapaperstore.com
BOW TIE €49.90 TO BE CONCEPT BCN Joaquín Costa 9 tobeconceptbcn.com
BLAZER €135 BOO Bonavista 2 boobcn.com
MAKE A SMART AND SMOOTH RETURN TO THE OFFICE HANDBAG €280 NUOVUM Pintor Fortuny 30 nuovum.com
PENCILCASE €10-20 NUKAK Argenteria 55 nukak.es
SHOES €235 CHERRY HEEL Mallorca 273 cherryheel.com
CUFFLINKS €130 LA CLINIQUE FINE STORE Mirallers 7 lacliniquefinestore.com
LAPTOP COVER €46 OMG BCN Plaça de la Llana 7 omgbcn.com
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REPORT
STRENGTH IN DIVERSITY
BARCELONA'S LONG-ESTABLISHED ROMA COMMUNITY SPEAK TO METROPOLITAN ABOUT IDENTITY, ACTIVISM AND CULTURE By Rae Bathgate
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María Rubio, Romani activist and president of intercultural organisation Nakeramos
aría Rubio was around eight years old and attending school in Sant Boi de Llobregat, when her class read the poem Romancero Gitano by Federico García Lorca. She still remembers it years later: 'Run away, moon, moon, moon. If the gypsies come, they'll twist your heart to necklaces and rings of white stone.’ That’s when everyone turned to stare at her, because she was going to steal the moon’s heart. Gypsy, or gitano, is often used as a slur, so Romani (adj.) or Roma (n.) is better, Rubio explained. She’s wellversed on the subject, as a Romani activist, president of intercultural organisation Nakeramos and vice-president of the Municipal Council of Roma People of Barcelona. Her experiences growing up Romani in Barcelona marked her and many of her colleagues profoundly, pushing them to work towards a solution to pervasive anti-gypsyism, a specific form of discrimination that still exists in the city. The Romani people have been invaluable contributors to Spanish and Catalan life and culture as we know it. Not only have they given Spain its flamenco and Catalunya its rumba catalana, but Romani culture is alive with longestablished social and feminist movements. Yet, they have suffered over half a millennia of forced assimilation and continued discrimination.
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Photo by Cristina González Blanco
ROMANI-ENGLISH PHRASEBOOK Romani is spoken by an estimated 10 million people and belongs to the Indo-European language family. Having co-existed alongside Spanish culture for many years, it has also influenced the Spanish and Catalan languages. For instance, the use of the term ‘chaval’ to refer to a boy or man, is derived from the Romani word ‘chavo’ of the same meaning.
Te oves baxtalo/i
The direct translation means ‘I wish you luck’, and it is the typical expression used as a greeting.
Good Morning.
Laćhi rat
Good night.
Sar san?
How are you?
Miśto, nais tuqe Te kamesa Lośasa Devlèsa Devel te del tuqe i laćhi baxt
Very well, thank you. Please. I’d be happy to. Goodbye. May God bring you good luck.
The River Ceremony is a symbol of unity
It is estimated that there are somewhere between 500,000 and 800,000 Roma in Spain, with around 75,000 currently in Catalunya, according to the Museu Virtual Gitano (museuvirtualgitano.cat). These numbers include both Catalan and Spanish Roma; two distinct groups that form part of the same global family. The origins of the Roma are thought to be Punjabi Indian, traced back through similarities between the Romani and Sanskrit languages. The facts are difficult to prove, however, partly because their history has been passed on orally, and partly because any written account that does exist was recorded by payos (non-Romani). The Roma first came to Catalunya in 1415, finally arriving in Barcelona in 1447. The 15th century was an inauspicious time for any minority on the Iberian peninsula. In 1499, the first Pragmatic Decree of the Catholic Kings triggered centuries of persecution, culminating in 1740 with the Gran Redada de Gitanos (Great Gypsy Round-up), when between 9,000 and 12,000 Roma of all ages were separated from their families and imprisoned in labour camps. This was just over 250 years ago, explained Pedro Casermeiro. “It was meant to short-circuit Romani culture.” Casermeiro is a Barcelona-based psychologist and activist, as well as heading and contributing to the Museu Virtual Gitano website. This virtual archive aims to "explain who we are and to show people what the Romani culture is from the inside,” as Casermeiro put it. He, like many other activists in Barcelona’s Roma community, believe that through early education, the Roma
will be able to reclaim their history and fight discrimination. Current history books present a prejudiced version, Casermeiro explained, such as saying that the Roma arrived in Spain by ‘impersonating’ pilgrims. As a first step towards a solution, an institutional declaration to include Roma culture and history in the Catalan curriculum has been approved by various councils across Catalunya, including Barcelona, Sabadell, Hospitalet and Badalona. This is a legal mechanism that will formally urge the Catalan government to make the change. History is not the only thing that has been taken from the Roma, Casermeiro added. He teaches Romani, a language still spoken by the worldwide Romani community that was lost in Catalunya after centuries of violent repression; Caló, the Catalan-Romani mixed language that replaced it, is now spoken less and less by the new generation. One place where one might still hear Caló is in the Plaça del Poble Romaní and in Plaça Raspall in Gràcia. While the Catalan Roma also settled in the Raval and Hostafrancs neighbourhoods, they form part of the origins of the village of Gràcia; the Valentí family were one of the first families to settle there. Ricardo Valentí grew up in the area and is now the president of the Associació Joves Gitanos de Gràcia (The Young Gypsies of Gràcia Association), where he works with his wife Enerida Isuf, a Romani woman from Albania who teaches English, one of the six languages she speaks. Founded in 2012, the association picked up where its predecessor, the Unió Gitana de Gràcia (1986-2010), left off, with their work in
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Photo by A.R. Photographia Barcelona’s rumba catalana was founded by the Roma community
the local community. For example, they collaborate with the Festa Major de Gràcia, and during the Reyes Magos they distribute gifts to neighbourhood children in the Cap Nen Sensa Joguina (No Child Without A Toy) campaign. The official Romani flag—a red wagon wheel against a backdrop of green grass and blue sky—hangs in Valentí’s office. He explained that it was chosen in the 1971 Worldwide Romani Conference along with an anthem (Gelem Gelem), and a date (April 8th) as the International Romani Day. The Associació Joves Gitanos de Gràcia celebrate this day each year; they go to the Catalan Parliament and read a speech, and are present along the Besòs river for a special ceremony that involves throwing rose petals into the river. The River Ceremony takes place around the world and is both a symbol of unity (“All rivers go to the sea, and the sea has no borders,” explained María Rubio), and a tribute to the Romani victims of the Second World War. To the same end, Valentí and Isuf also travel to concentration camps with the organisation Nakeramos every year, to fight for the worldwide recognition of Romani victims of the Holocaust, or Samuradipen in Romani.
For many, being Romani is an added lens through which to view the world
The Barcelona Roma community has a long history of activism, starting in the Fifties, gaining more traction in the Seventies with the end of the dictatorship, and followed by the fast growth of feminist movements in the Nineties. Among the many activist groups in Barcelona, the Federación de Asociaciones Gitanas de Cataluña
(FAGIC) and the Fundación Secretariado Gitano (FSG) are two of the more well-known, both working for better integration and fairer treatment of Romani people. All the interviewees explained that while the situation may not be as dire in Barcelona as in Romania, discrimination and racism still exist in Spain and Catalunya. For instance, the Diccionario de la Real Academia Española (DRAE)— the authoritative dictionary of the Spanish language—defines the word gitano also as trapacero, meaning swindler. After a wellpublicised campaign, the RAE (Royal Spanish Academy) has added a clarification, but it has not been removed. Miquel Torres of the FAGIC added to this, naming Spanish and Catalan expressions that criticise someone’s hair, skin colour, or cleanliness by comparing them to the Roma. This needs to be taken seriously, Torres explained, “When people laugh, they don’t know what it’s like.” He added that it is also important to change the idea of ‘helping’ the Roma. “We’re working together for a common good, for Catalan society…and I am part of Catalan society." Of the many Roma contributions to Catalan society, perhaps the most well-known is music. Flamenco, widely recognised for its Romani origins, finds its home in Andalusia, but claims many talented musicians and dancers in Barcelona; Antonio Cafelete, for example, grew up watching musicians on the city’s streets. Now, he plays tablaos all over Europe. Indeed, one of the most celebrated names in flamenco, Camaron de la Isla, may have been born in Cádiz, but he died in Badalona. Barcelona’s very own genre is called the rumba catalana. According to musician and activist Sicus Carbonell, it’s a fusion of three genres: flamenco (specifically, the rumba, tanguillo and tangos de levante), Cuban music, and rock and roll. It originated in the Forties and Fifties, primarily among the Roma community in Barcelona, and was influenced by the city’s Latin American community. Back then, Roma musicians would replicate the sound of an entire band with one guitar and their hands. The genre is characterised by its 2-4 or 4-4 tempo, palmeros (hand clappers), percussion instruments, such as bongos, and, above all, a method of guitar playing called the ‘ventilador’, which involves strumming and simultaneously tapping on the soundboard. It’s so important to Barcelona’s history, that this autumn, a monument to the genre and to its greats (including Pedro Pubill
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Calaf (1935-2014), known simply as ‘Peret’, and Carbonell himself) will be installed on the walls of Carrer de la Cera in the Raval, thought to be one of the origins of the Rumba Catalana. This won’t be the city’s first homage to a rumbero: in Plaça del Poble Romaní in Gràcia lies a plaque dedicated to the Argentine musician Gato Pérez (1951-1990), who collaborated with the Unió Gitana de Gràcia. Sicus explained: "An Argentine payo helped the Romani community, and the Romani community was indebted to him." This homage is testament to the continuing relationship between music and activism. Local musician Daniel Landry may not be Roma, but he still works to help the community through his music. He often performs with Carbonell, and his band, Landry el Rumbero, plays Catalan rumba for children. In his songs, he works to normalise Romani culture—starting with the word gitano. “Often, when the children hear the word gitano for the first time, they laugh because they relate it to an insult,” he explained. His goal is that, by the end of the performance, they understand that the Roma are no different from them. Carbonell has pursued both music and activism throughout his life. While he followed his career as a rumbero, he carries a family legacy in activism: his grandfather was activist Manel Giménez Valentí, known as ‘Oncle Manel’, founder of the Unió Gitana de Gràcia, one of the founders of FAGIC, and a recipient of the Sant Jordi Cross and the Barcelona Medal of Honour in recognition of his work. Carbonell worked closely with his grandfather over the years. He also received his first guitar from Oncle Manel when he was six years old. Today, he composes, arranges and performs worldwide with his band, Sabor de Gràcia. Among Barcelona’s Romani activist groups, several are dedicated to the advancement of Romani women, such as Drom Kotar Mestipen, Voces Gitanas, and Lachó Bají Calí, to name a few. They operate in a tight network of city-wide associations, including the FAGIC and FSG, but also within the community. Men are also active in the Romani feminist movement, explained María Rubio. "Being a feminist doesn't mean being a woman.” Activists Francisca Maya, Belén Fernandez, Noemi Fernández and Aroa Vargas explained this concept in more detail. According to Vargas, for Romani women, feminism is closely tied to the concept of family. The others agreed: “As a group, no Roma is interested in reaching their objectives alone,” said Maya. Traditional, white, paya feminism, hasn’t often included the opinion of Romani women. Not only does mainstream feminism ignore the communal values of the Roma, but it discounts an urgent truth: Romani feminism doesn't, and indeed can't, exist in a vacuum. To care about the Romani woman is to care about Romani people, and Romani people remain one of the most marginalised groups in Europe. As Rubio pointed out, achieving progress for women when they are also part of a marginalised, discriminated group, is a tall order. Amongst this group of feminist activists, there is an overwhelming desire for tolerance and appreciation of diversity. Vargas explained that, for her, it's a question of cultivating a feminism of consensus, of agreement. Even within the Romani community, “We’re not all the same,” Fernández explained. "Me, Francisca, Aroa and Belen are different, and each of our ways to be a feminist and to live equality will be different." For many, being Romani is an added lens through which to view the world. It means something different to each member of the community—for some it’s about family, respecting your elders and caring for children, whilst for others the feeling of solidarity, freedom and shared values is more prominent. As Miquel Torres summarised: "We are diverse, we are plural, we are multieverything. We are multi-ethnic, multi-religious, multilingual.” He added, “I don't want to be the same, nor a copy of anything or anyone. I’m me, and I'm Romani."
Ricardo Valentí, president of the Associació Joves Gitanos de Gràcia
FAMOUS ROMANI PEOPLE Helios Gómez (1905, Seville - 1956, Barcelona) Painter and activist during the Civil War, Gómez is considered one of the central figures in Spanish graphic arts of the early 20th Century. Lita Cabellut (1961 Barcelona) One of today’s most well-known Spanish painters, Cabellut currently lives in Amsterdam where her work includes painting, creating installations and photography. Mariano Rodríguez Vázquez, known as 'Marianet' (1909, Barcelona - 1939, La Ferté-sous-Jouarre, Champaña) A union leader and regional secretary of the National Confederation of Labor during the Civil War. Mateo Maximoff (1917, Barcelona - 1997, Romainville) Philosopher and writer of Kalderash Romani descent, Maximoff lived in France for the majority of his life and wrote famous works, including Ursitory (1946) and The Seventh Daughter (1979). Carmen Amaya (1913, Barcelona - 1963, Begur) One of the greatest flamenco dancers of her generation (see cover image), Amaya mastered some of the fastest and most intricate footwork that were traditionally reserved for men. Antonio González Batista, known as ‘El Pescaílla’ (1926, Barcelona - 1999, Madrid) A talented flamenco singer and guitarist, El Pescaílla is considered the father of Catalan rumba. Pere Pubill Calaf, known as ‘Peret’ (1935, Barcelona - 2014, Barcelona) Regarded as one of the most influential diffusers of Catalan rumba, Peret was a singer and guitarist who also represented Spain at the 1974 Eurovision Song Contest.
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FROM MIND TO MODEL
3D
WITH PLENTY OF 3D PRINTING OPPORTUNITIES IN BARCELONA, TURNING YOUR IDEAS INTO A REALITY JUST GOT EASIER.
printing—the process of creating a solid three-dimensional object from a digital data file by printing layers of durable plastic— has become an invaluable tool to both the manufacturing and digital design industries in recent years. It cuts down processing time considerably, while reducing the high costs typically involved with prototyping. Entrepreneurs, large company owners and hobbyists alike are putting this innovative technology to use in their respective fields, pushing the boundaries with its versatility. Given the city’s status as a thriving tech, art and science hub, 3D printing is growing quickly in Barcelona, breaking down barriers between people and technology.
By Katherine Benson
FAB LAB BARCELONA Fab Academy is the result of a collaboration between the Fab Foundation and MIT’s Center for Bits and Atoms, and has been developing award-winning projects for World Congress and Smart Citizen. This global institution has centres in major cities across the world, providing year-long accredited courses on mechanisms, applications, and implications of digital fabrication. Branching off from the formal training academy, Fab Lab Barcelona is a small-scale workshop for personal projects and forms part of the Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalunya (IAAC). Its mission is to provide access to these high-tech tools to anyone who wants to learn, innovate or create, regardless of experience or education. Fab Lab puts on workshops, children’s classes and open days to enable people to gain hands-on experience in applying digital fabrication to their own ideas. Last year, workshops included a two-day course to design and build a custom skateboard, as well as a furniture restoration class, in which old pieces of furniture were upgraded with the help of 3D printing and laser cutting. Pujades 102. fablabbcn.org
BCN 3D TECHNOLOGIES A worldwide network of makers: creators, designers and scientists collaborate through the BCN 3D Technologies platform. ‘Open-source’ methodology means that users can share their knowledge and contribute to the software in a collaborative effort to evolve and update the system’s technology. The network supports innovators on a wide range of projects across various industries, from jewellery and furniture designers to architects and aerospace engineers. BCN 3D Technologies makes laser-cutting machines available for public use in order to educate individuals about this valuable resource. Machines are also available to purchase for individuals or businesses looking to fabricate prototypes or print scale models. Esteve Terradas 1, Castelldefels. bcn3dtechnologies.com
3D PRINT BARCELONA This project describes itself as a community of makers who believe in the power of new technology and design concepts. It is a support group for self-made innovators. Its meetup community is actively spreading interest in the subject, sharing tips and experiences with gadget-obsessed hobbyists and professionals alike. Anyone curious about how things are made with 3D printing technology is encouraged to join. The next meetup is called ‘Introduction to Fusion 360’ and is scheduled for September 13th at 7pm. As well as the regular meetups and workshops held at Punt Multimèdia’s co-working space, 3D Print Barcelona also puts on special events, such as the Printer Party 2017, to be held on October 28th. The event is open to the public and will see experts demonstrate how laser-cutting machines are used, SketchUp workshops and 3D scanning and printing activities for children. 3dprintbarcelona.org
FAB CAFE This is a space for collaborating on projects and bringing concepts to life. By providing a variety of digital fabrication tools, including laser cutters and 3D printers, visitors are able to create something physical from their digital data. There are five Fab Cafes across the world, with a network of approximately 170,000 customers. The synergy of this global system accelerates ideas and provides the resources to make them a reality. Located at the entrance to the MOB coworking space in the Eixample, Barcelona’s Fab Cafe holds workshops to educate first-time users on how to navigate the process, inspiring all types of creators to work together—the philosophy is that two heads are better than one. With that in mind, the Fab Cafe has been successfully increasing its network by encouraging newcomers to dive in and create alongside more experienced makers. MOB Bailén 11. Fabcafe.com
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MUST-READ Victus by Albert Sanchez Piñol A fictitious account of the events of 1714 through the eyes of a real-life military engineer who fought on both sides. Piñol’s best-selling novel manages to convey all the desperation and confusion of Barcelona’s most apocalyptic hour with a black sense of humour.
LA DIADA E A GUIDE TO CATALUNYA’S NATIONAL DAY ON SEPTEMBER 11TH By Paul Cannon. Photos by Lewis Gregory
Fossar de les Moreres
ach year, the September 11th festivities celebrate Barcelona’s stubbornly independent spirit, bringing a sea of Senyera flags to the city’s streets and acting as a potent reminder of its power to reinvent itself. Catalunya’s national day, known as La Diada, commemorates a bloody defeat at the hands of Philip V during the Spanish War of Succession; a defeat which would signal an end to Catalunya’s status as a principality. Over 300 years later, the consequences of l’Onze de Septembre are still felt, as a resurgent and confident Catalunya continues to debate its relationship with the rest of Spain. To prepare you for this year’s event in Barcelona, here’s our guide to September 11th; what it means, where it took place, who made it happen, and why it still matters.
HISTORY Background to L’Onze de Septembre When the heirless Charles II lay on his deathbed in Madrid in 1700, he had two potential successors. One was his French Bourbon nephew, Philip of Anjou, a spoiled libertine who, according to one of his grandfather Louis XIV’s courtiers, ‘might have been cruel, if he were not so apathetic and engrossed in his obesity and obscurity’. The other was his Austrian step-nephew, the pious Archduke Charles von Habsburg; a man with an exceptionally poor attendance record at important battles. When the ailing Spanish regent plumped for Philip (the favoured choice of the Castilian court), there was resistance to the idea in the Principality of Catalunya. Catalan rebels, suspicious of the idea of a French monarch, preferred Charles, and were seduced into an alliance with the English, who saw a growing French-Spanish Bourbon Empire as a threat to their own military aspirations. The resulting conflict, which saw other European nations scrambling to join Charles’s side, would come to be known as the Spanish War of Succession (1701-1714). At first, the war went well for Catalunya and her new AngloAustrian allies. Barcelona was liberated from Bourbon rule in 1705 and a series of important victories led the allies into Madrid in 1710. There, however, they could not impose Charles on the Castilian Court. By 1711, the allies had been forced into a humiliating retreat back to Catalunya.
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That same year, the Archduke returned to Vienna to succeed his brother on the Austrian throne. Alarmed by this new development, the English jumped ship on the alliance, signing a lucrative peace treaty with Louis XIV, which would leave Philip free to seize the Spanish throne, on the condition that he would never unite the kingdoms of France and Spain. Catalunya, deserted by both Charles and her allies, was left alone to face the full wrath of a vengeful Philip. The final, bloody showdown was centered on the capital, Barcelona.
The Siege of Barcelona
INTEREST
SIGHTS OF
In 1713, the city consisted of what we know today as Ciutat Vella, with a population of around 30,000 crammed within its formidable, fortified walls. In July of that year, 40,000 Spanish and French troops descended upon the plain of Barcelona. Despite having just 10,000 men to protect the city, Barcelona’s diputats (members of parliament) voted against surrender, still hoping in vain for a change of heart from their former allies. Over the next 414 days, the resolve of the city’s starving inhabitants would be tested to the limit in the face of the Bourbon bombardment. On September 11th, 1714, under the orders of the Duke of Berwick (the illegitimate son of James I of England, then an exiled French General), the Bourbon army finally broke through the city’s walls. Streaming in between the eastern bastions of Sant Pere, Portal Nou and Santa Clara into La Ribera, they met desperate opposition from the nearstarving Coronela de Barcelona, the armed forces defending the city. Barcelona’s Commander-in-Chief, Rafael Casanova—more a politician than a warrior—led a suicidal resistance on what is now Ronda Sant Pere. A statue of Casanova still marks the spot on the corner of Carrer Ali Bey where he fell, injured with a bullet in his thigh, draped in the flag of Santa Eulalia, the city’s patron saint. It was a final symbolic act of defiance. After 14 months, the so-called Setge de Barcelona was finally over, with the city in ruins and up to a quarter of its population dead. An outraged Philip went on to revoke the Catalan principality’s privileges, replacing its institutions with Castilian ones, in a stark prequel to the activities of the Franco regime over 200 years later.
El Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria
1. PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
2. MERCAT DEL BORN
Following his victory in 1714, Philip V erected a huge pentagonal fortress, known as La Ciutadella, in the ashes of the old Ribera district. It was built from the rubble of over 1200 homes destroyed during and after the siege, with the intention of watching over the city rather than defending it. Seen by many as an odious symbol of oppression, it was demolished in the run-up to Barcelona’s Universal Exposition in 1888, making way for the park which still carries its name.
Housed in the old market building, El Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria is a remarkable portal into the Ribera district destroyed by Philip V. When the site was excavated during the market’s restoration, archaeologists not only uncovered dozens of buried houses, which can now be visited with a guided tour, but also discovered a priceless trove of artefacts, presently housed in a permanent exhibition in the centre’s Sala Villarroel. Ranging from porcelain vases and oriental textiles, to cooking implements and legal documents, the artefacts have enabled historians to piece together a remarkably vivid image of how ordinary folk lived in a Barcelona barrio in the year 1714. Open every day 10am-8pm. Access to the site is free, although the permanent exhibition in Sala Villarroel costs €4.40; prices vary for guided tours of the archaeological ruins.
BARCELONA 1714 MERCAT DEL BORN FOSSAR DE LES MORERES
PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
3. FOSSAR DE LES MORERES Each year on September 11th, thousands flock to a small square beside the Basilica of Santa María del Mar in the Born, to honour the victims of 1714 at the Fossar de les Moreres (Mullbery Grave). Here, there is a sculpture by Carme Fiol inscribed with the words, ‘In this mulberry grave is buried no traitor; though we lose our flags it will be the urn of honour’.
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Parc de la Ciutadella
ON THE DAY
Diadas Past and Present In recent years, fueled by the growing clamour for a referendum on Catalunya’s future, Diada celebrations have become increasingly more spectacular. In 2013, there was the extraordinary Via Catalana (Catalan Way), a 250mile human chain crossing the length and breadth of Catalunya. The following year, for the 2014 tricentennial, half a million citizens converged on Plaça Glòries, Gran Via and Diagonal in the shape of a giant ‘V’ for ‘vote’ formed from a vast expanse of red and yellow stripes. This year’s event will be all the more significant (and controversial) thanks to the Generalitat’s announcement that, despite firm opposition from the Spanish Government, there will be another unofficial independence referendum held on October 1st. Organised by pro-independence organisation the Catalan National Assembly (ANC), the plan this year involves a giant cross (or ‘+’ sign) that runs the length of Passeig de Gràcia and across Carrer d’Aragó, from Passeig Sant Joan to Carrer de Casanova, with all participants wearing fluorescent yellow t-shirts. Of course, not all of Barcelona’s citizens are in favour of an independent state, leading to criticisms that the Diada has been hijacked by the separatist movement and its political agenda. But no matter which camp you’re in, the level of logistics and creativity involved in the organisation of these mass protests is astonishing.
Open House For an alternative plan on September 11th, you can visit many of Barcelona’s museums for free and take advantage of the rare opportunity to enter various government buildings. The Palau de la Generalitat and the Ajuntament de Barcelona, open their doors, as well as the Catalan Parliament, located in the Parc de la Ciutadella. Participating museums include the Museu d’Història de Catalunya, Museu d’Arqueologia, the Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) and the Museu d’Historia de Barcelona (MUHBA).
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Photo courtesy of Agencia EFE
BARCELONA ‘92 IMAGES. THE OLYMPIC WORK. (ESPAI MERCÈ SALA. DIAGONAL METRO STATION. UNTIL SEPTEMBER 26TH)
WHAT’S ON THE BEST OF THE MONTH AHEAD
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music A MODERN MAN PAUL WELLER. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. SEPTEMBER 14TH. Upon the release of his 13th solo album, the former frontman of The Jam continues to keep fans hooked with his ability to effortlessly switch between everything from blues to funk. One of the forerunners in the mod revival, Weller became a cornerstone of British music back in the Seventies. With Weller leading the way, The Jam reinvented the music scene, putting a sophisticated twist on punk rock—ties were knotted and suits were ironed, but their songs were filled with the angry cries of a disenfranchised youth. Seminal tracks, such as ‘Going Underground’ and ‘That’s Entertainment’, became generational anthems, soundtracks to tumultuous political times in the UK. Now on the music scene for over four decades, Weller is taking a different approach to his music. Aware of how the years have changed him, he is becoming more in tune with his creative process. “I’ve been finding it easier to write in recent years,” he explained in a recent BBC interview. ‘‘Sometimes you’ll find you’re creative and other times you just won’t be. If anything, I’ve come to an age where I’ve realised [that], and when I’m not in that creative state then I just put it down and walk away for a bit [....] when I was younger, when I didn’t write or had a block for a while I’d be pulling my hair out thinking it was all over.” Luckily, his hair is still intact and his calmer approach to writing has culminated in A Kind Of Revolution (2017). Featuring collaborations with both Robert Wyatt and Boy George, Weller doesn’t seem to be giving up the game any time soon.
ROLLING BACK THE ROLLING STONES. ESTADI OLÍMPIC LLUÍS COMPANYS. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 15-17. SEPTEMBER 27TH. The story of The Rolling Stones and Barcelona is one of controversy and conflict. Having formed in 1962, the city had to wait almost 15 years to witness Jagger’s swagger live on stage, with their first ever gig in the city taking place in 1976. Originally booked to play in Cambrils, complaints from locals over the pernicious nature of the band and their chaotic drug and alcohol-fueled lives led to its cancellation. Despite opposition, it was finally rescheduled to take place in the Monumental bull ring and reviews from El Pais testified to its success: “Mick Jagger played a leading role in what was a collective festival, a spectacular game in which everyone participated. A game without inhibitions in which the sexuality and provocation that emanated from Jagger through the microphone took on an almost ritual value, like symbols of a primitive and liberating dance.’’ Over 40 years on, the city is preparing itself for the seventh appearance by The Stones, this time they will be taking to the stage of one of the city’s most famous venues, Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys, which can accommodate over 50,000 spectators. As well as presenting their latest album of blues covers, Blue and Lonesome (2016), they will also treat fans to many of the classics that have stood the test of time.
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TAKING IT DOWN A NOTCH LADY GAGA. PALAU SANT JORDI. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. SEPTEMBER 22ND. Rumors of new material are spreading, but Lady Gaga is keeping fans waiting. The singer, actress and fashionista has been back in the studio, but there is yet to be confirmation of a new album. In the meantime, ‘Little Monsters’—Gaga’s affectionate term for her fans—will be able to get their fix at her Barcelona gig this month. Promoting her fifth studio album, Joanne (2016), the show will boast all the glitz, glamour and character we’ve come to expect from the born-entertainer. Her more recent material, however, has shown a much more sober side to the artist known for her extravagant costumes and epic pop tunes, and Joanne has been dubbed by Rolling Stone magazine as her best album in years. It may come as a surprise to hear it slotted into the genres of both soft rock and country; the over-the-top, quirky style so often associated with Lady Gaga has been replaced with a strippedback, modest sound. The title track ‘Joanne’ is a touching ballad written in memory of a deceased aunt, setting the tone for the rest of the album. There are no dancefloor hits, but the marriage of Gaga’s talents with Mark Ronson’s production makes for an impressive piece of work. Fans will be reassured, however, by reports that early material, such as ‘Born This Way’ and ‘Poker Face’, are still on the bill. It looks as though Gaga is trying a different direction, but it’s impossible to say how long the musical chameleon will continue on this path.
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music FUNK FUSION THE LONDON AFROBEAT COLLECTIVE. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. SEPTEMBER 13TH. The presence of Nigerian music and its influence on the contemporary music scene often goes unnoticed. Drake’s ‘One Dance’ includes mixes from ‘Ojuelegba’ by young Nigerian artist Wizkid, whilst Beyoncé is said to have recorded a yet-to-be-released 20-track album inspired by Nigerian legend Fela Kuti. In the UK, the London Afrobeat Collective have been strengthening the presence of Nigerian music on London’s live music scene since 2010. Taking the classic Afrobeat sound and galvanising it with politically charged lyrics, they are becoming known for their powerful live shows. For anyone unfamiliar with the genre, Afrobeat is the music of West Africa yoked together with American funk and jazz, chants, percussion and rhythms, which feed the soul and make the body move. The 10-strong, multi-instrument group will bring their infectious grooves and energy to Sala Apolo this month, showcasing their critically acclaimed album, Food Chain (2015). Support on the night will be from Barcelona-based group Alma Afrobeat Ensemble, who came to Barcelona in 2003 in search of a new sound and recruited an international team of musicians who have been churning out Afrobeat ever since. Funk, fusion and bass heavy rhythms are all on the cards.
NEW DIRECTIONS COSMONAUTS. ALMO2BAR. BRUNIQUER 59-61. SEPTEMBER 19TH. Surprising fans with their new sound, Cosmonauts have produced what has been described by Band Camp as their ‘prettiest’ album yet, entitled A-OK! (2016). The quartet have swapped screeching guitar and muffled vocals for a much cleaner, clearer sound, wrapping each chord in dream-inducing psychedelia. The first single off the record, ‘Party at Sunday’, is entrancing. The accompanying video is a visual delight that takes viewers on a rose-tinted walk through a party filled with youthful faces, swaying to the melodic sounds. The soothing guitar riff and soft vocals are juxtaposed by disconcerting lyrics like ‘I fell in love and hated it’ and ‘All my friends are assholes’, reminding us that they are the same old Cosmonauts we know and love. The vocal duo—guitarists Alexander Ahmadi and Derek Cowart—have a natural talent for drawing on a multitude of influences, including Spacemen 3, The Velvet Underground and Sonic Youth, to create a fresh and contemporary sound. Known for their loud stage presence, achieved by cranking up old amps as high as possible, witnessing how they strike a balance between their old and new sound will be an interesting spectacle. The gig is sure to contain enough reverb, white noise and guitars to keep everyone content and ears buzzing.
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IN CONCERT
1st. JJ Friends Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. Ziggy Alberts Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 5th. Moma (Queen tribute) Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 6th. Lisa and Lena Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 7th. Vega BARTS. Paral∙lel 62. 7th. The KVB Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 8th. Band of Horses Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 8th. Interpol Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 9th. Manel Navarro Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 12th. Orquestra de Guitarres de Barcelona Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 13th. Joaquín Sabina Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 13th. London Afrobeat Collective Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 14th. Paul Weller Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 15th. Inés Logao BARTS. Paral.lel 62. 15th. The Drums Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 16th. Jesús Guerrero Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 17th. Maluma Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 19th. Cosmonauts Almo2bar. Bruniquer 59-61. 20th. 12th Birthday Bash King Horror Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 21st & 22nd. Lady Gaga Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 27th, 28th & 30th. La Pegatina Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 27th. The Rolling Stones Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys. Passeig Olímpic 15-17. 28th. Suites de Bach Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 30th. Orishas Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 30th. Alí Arango Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.
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art MEMORY LANE
Photo courtesy of Agencia EFE
BARCELONA ‘92 IMAGES. THE OLYMPIC WORK. ESPAI MERCÈ SALA. DIAGONAL METRO STATION. UNTIL SEPTEMBER 26TH. This summer marks the 25th anniversary of the 1992 Olympic Games, generally considered a turning point in Barcelona’s global image. The games were a resounding success due to the collaborative effort of political representatives, institutions, companies, cultural and sports entities, and thousands of volunteers across the city and country. The silver anniversary offers the city an opportunity to revisit the values linked to the games: solidarity, peace, respect, an effort-based culture, the pursuit of excellence, and fair play. The anniversary will be celebrated through a series of events throughout the year, including this photography exhibition. Until September 26th, a selection of the most memorable images from the games will be on display in the Espai Mercè Sala, an exhibition hall located inside Diagonal metro station. The EFE photojournalist agency, which has an archive of 16 million photos from the Games, has organised the exhibition, selecting 120 images to display. Of these, 92 are of the Olympic Games, whilst the rest portray historical sporting moments in the city over the years. lameva.barcelona.cat/25anysolimpica
ART FEST
BARCELONA GALLERY WEEKEND. VARIOUS LOCATIONS. SEPT 28TH-OCT 1ST. Spanning four days and involving 24 art galleries, including ADN Galeria, Ana Mas Projects and Galeria Joan Prats, this is an art event not to be missed. Centred around contemporary and avant-garde art, the weekend presents projects from a selection of more than 50 hand-picked artists, as well as two parallel programmes: Compositions and D’esquenes a la galería. This year’s Compositions programme, entitled ‘Undergrounds’, presents artistic interventions that explore urban subterranean spaces, each one chosen for its unique architecture, use or history. The D’esquenes programme, entitled ‘Under Suspicion’, will exhibit works borrowed from private collections. Aimed at reinforcing art collecting in the city, this event is for artists and art professionals, as well as the general public. barcelonagalleryweekend.com
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REVIEW
DREAM OR REALITY? Will Shank visits ‘The World of Giorgio De Chirico: Dream or Reality’ at the CaixaForum. Until October 22nd.
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he Greek-born De Chirico, who lived most of his life in Italy, was a major influence on the art of the 20th century. His enigmatic cityscapes and modern twists on classic themes are immediately recognisable, if difficult to interpret. This is his first retrospective exhibition in Spain. The work of De Chirico bears a striking visual resemblance to that of artists like René Magritte and Salvador Dalí, so it is tempting to lump him together with the Surrealists. However, De Chirico actually rejected Surrealism after dabbling in it during the Twenties, and it is probably more accurate to say that the Surrealists imitated his revolutionary visual style and content. Many subsequent generations of artists owe a debt to De Chirico, including those of the Sixties Pop movement and today’s conceptual artists. So, while one might well imagine Magritte, for instance, painting a man rowing a boat across a lake in someone’s living room, it was De Chirico who did so first (in his The Return of Ulysses, 1968). With its roots in the philosophy of metaphysics, which considers the world in terms that lie beyond the physical, De Chirico’s unique vision blurs the edges between reality and fantasy in ways that are universally appealing. The exhibition divides his primary themes into six categories. His moody ‘Italian piazzas’, perhaps his most recognisable images that date back to 1910, are filled not with people, but with enigmatic and haunting empty spaces and dramatic shadows. Around the same time, he introduced the ‘Mannequins’, faceless figures with egg-shaped heads who are the main population of many of his compositions of this period. The ‘Metaphysical Interiors’ series
comprises paintings from 1915 to 1918, in which a parade of incongruously placed objects within generic rooms appear for purposes that remain up to the imagination of the viewer. Naked men creepily appear partially inserted into stylised, zigzagging bodies of water in his ‘Mysterious Baths’, beginning in 1934; centaurs, giant swans and classic nudes float in and out of these enigmatic scenes. The ‘Classic World and Gladiators’ are products of his Neo-Classical and Neo-Baroque periods, and more traditional themes appear in the galleries featuring his ‘Portraits and Self-Portraits’, as well as his themes of ‘History and Still Life’. But even here, De Chirico’s unique vision is evident. From his early photorealist portraits of his wife to his own (unwelcome?) presence as a nude middle-aged seated man, the artist took liberties with a tradition that was handed down to him by his heroes, such as Peter Paul Rubens, whom he emulated. CaixaForum has installed the paintings, and a few sculptures, in a De Chiriquesque interior, where the works are framed by a series of his classic architraves. The travelling exhibition must have emptied out the Fondazione Giorgio e Isa De Chirico, the former home of the artist and his wife, which is located next to Rome’s famous Spanish steps. Almost all of the 142 works on loan came either from the foundation, or from the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna in Rome. A small gallery projecting videos of interviews with the artist later in life helps to bring the visitor in touch with De Chirico the man, whilst a series of lectures on De Chirico’s predominant, and sometimes confounding, pictorial themes will complement the exhibition in September and October.
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© Forensic Architecture, 2015
art BENEATH THE SURFACE NICHOLAS NIXON. FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE. DIPUTACIÓ 250. OPENING SEPT 12TH. Detroit-born photographer Nicholas Nixon is known for his work in portraiture and social photography. He has exhibited his collections in prestigious museums and galleries all over the world, including the MoMA in New York, Fogg Art Museum in Cambridge and the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, and currently works as a professor of photography at the Massachusetts College of Art in Boston. Fundación MAPFRE will showcase a selection of his most well-known works, including ‘The Brown Sisters’ (1975-), in which he has photographed four sisters every year for almost 40 years, and ‘People With AIDS’ (1991), an intimate and bold series delving into the lives of people living with AIDS. His work aims to expose tensions, both visible and invisible.
WORD PLAY CATALINA JARAMILLO. THE WORDS OF THE OPTIMIST. SENDA GALLERY. TRAFALGAR 32. OPENING SEPT 4TH. After exhibiting in galleries and museums across Latin America, the United States and Europe, Colombian artist Catalina Jaramillo brings her latest work to Barcelona. Using drawing as her key medium, her work revolves around issues of contemplation, with reference to literature and fiction. As part of the sixth edition of Barcelona’s Artnou programme, Senda Gallery presents Jaramillo’s new drawing series, ‘The Words of the Optimist’, in which she interprets the words that come before and after ‘love’, ‘death’, ‘life’ and ‘end’ in the dictionary of several languages.
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EXHIBITIONS
OPENINGS GALERIA JOAN PRATS Confluències In this exhibition, works by artists Alicia Kopf, Lola Lasurt and Teresa Solar Abboud establish a dialogue with the existing artwork displayed in Galeria Joan Prats, in order to offer new perspectives and readings of the pieces. Opening September 5th. Balmes 54. MNAC Ramon Pichot. From Els Quatre Gats to La Maison Rose A 20th-century Catalan artist who spent much of his life in Paris, Pichot was a master of painting and portraiture. Opening September 28th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc. MEAM Hoki The Hoki Museum in Tokyo brings a taste of Japanese Realist art to Barcelona, presenting 60 of the museum’s best artworks. Opening September 21st. Barra de Ferro 5. FUNDACIÓ SUÑOL Fernando Vijande & 51 artists This exhibition brings together work by 51 artists who were supported and promoted by art dealer and gallery director, Fernando Vijande. Opening September 27th. Pg. de Gràcia 98.
LAST CHANCE MUSEU DEL DISSENY David Bowie Is Produced by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, this exhibition explores Bowie’s creative process as musical innovator and cultural icon over five decades. Until September 25th. Glòries Catalanes 37-38. CCCB Björk Digital This unconventional exhibition tracing Björk’s 24-year career creates a unique virtual reality experience through a combination of performance, film, installation and video. Until September 24th. Montalegre 5. MAPFRE Duane Michals A retrospective exhibition dedicated to the American photographer, paying tribute to his innovation in the field with a display of images from different phases in his career. Until September 10th. Diputació 250. FUNDACIÓ SETBA Setba Jove The 10th and final edition of the Jove Exhibition, which focuses on artists under 30 working on artdriven social projects. Until September 15th. Plaça Reial 10.
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misc BEER TIME
Mash Craft Beer festival. Nau Bostik. ferraN turNé 11. septeMBer 2Nd & 3rd. Walk down nearly any street in Barcelona these days and the chances are you’ll happen across a trendy-looking bar boasting a range of locally-brewed and international beer. The vibe of the bar is generally alternative, the labels on the bottles are colourful and eccentric, and the beer inside has a subtle difference every time you try it. This is the world of craft beer, and Barcelona is taking the international craze pretty seriously. This month, the Mash Craft Beer Festival, to be held at Nau Bostik, will see some of the best craft brewers from around the world present their wares, accompanied by live music and dozens of food options. In addition to some of Spain’s most celebrated craft beer producers, including Barcelona’s popular Black Lab bar, the festival will also host brewers from the UK, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Italy and the United States, among others. mash.beer
HAPPY BIRTHDAY FREDDIE
freddie for a day 2017. sala apolo. Nou de la raMBla 113. septeMBer 5th. After the success of last year’s celebrations, Queen tribute band Momo teams up with Hard Rock Barcelona to pay tribute to the legendary Freddie Mercury once more. After Freddie tragically lost his life to AIDS in 1991, fellow band members of Queen set up the Mercury Phoenix Trust Foundation to raise awareness of AIDS and celebrate his life and legacy. Since its inception in 1992, the foundation has raised millions in its efforts to support the global fight against AIDS. On September 5th each year, it collaborates with Hard Rock Cafes across Europe to celebrate Freddie’s birthday, with waiters sporting emblematic black moustaches and participating in various fundraising activities. This year, Sala Apolo will host Momo as they play some classic Queen hits, including ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’, ‘Somebody to Love’, and ‘The Show Must Go On’. Lead singer Momo Cortés played Galileo in the Spanish adaptation of the successful musical ‘Queen: We Will Rock You’, astounding audiences with his bold voice. Brian May, Queen’s lead guitarist, selected Momo for the role, believing Freddie would have been impressed by his “cheeky quality and fearlessness”. Tickets for the charity concert are priced €13, €10 of which will be donated to the Mercury Phoenix Trust Foundation. hardrock.com
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JOIN THE PARTY
la MerCè. various loCatioNs. septeMBer 22Nd-25th. Barcelona’s biggest annual festival, La Mercè, honours the city’s patron saint. The celebrations include hundreds of traditional and cultural events, including the classic correfoc (fire run), castellers (human towers), and a spectacular closing fireworks show at the magic fountain on Montjuïc. Important buildings, such as the cathedral, are creatively illuminated as part of the light festival, and a programme of free outdoor concerts, BAM (Barcelona Accío Musical), runs simultaneously across the city, offering a range of musical acts, including many from this year’s guest city, Reykjavik. Mayor Ada Colau invited the Icelandic capital, a UNESCO city of literature like Barcelona, based on the city’s “civic commitment to promoting democracy and social justice in a particularly difficult context”. Festival goers will have plenty of opportunity to discover more about Iceland throughout the festival. La Mercè 2017 will also introduce new venues in order to bring the celebrations to outlying neighbourhoods, reaffirming the council’s goal of involving all of Barcelona’s citizens. Normally the festival finishes on the official saint’s day, September 24th, but this year, events continue onto the 25th, which will be a public holiday in Barcelona. lameva.barcelona.cat/merce
CULTURAL CELEBRATION
festival CiNeMa Jueu. filMoteCa de CataluNya. septeMBer 12th-30th. Jewish culture has a long association with Barcelona. Although very much a minority group today, in the 15th century, an estimated one tenth of the city’s population was Jewish, and some of the oldest streets of the Gothic Quarter, the Call, stand as testament to the oncethriving community. The Barcelona Jewish Film festival recognises and celebrates the city’s Jewish history, and aims to promote awareness of this cultural connection. During the festival, films from Jewish filmmakers or with Jewish themes from a diverse number of countries, including Israel, Canada, Italy, Germany and Spain, will be screened, and the selection includes both narrative fiction and documentary features. Perhaps the most exciting screening comes from FrenchJewish film-maker, Radu Mihaileanu, who will be in attendance to introduce his latest film, epic drama The History of Love (2016). Starring an international cast that includes Derek Jacobi (Gladiator), Gemma Arterton (Prince of Persia) and Elliott Gould (Ocean’s Eleven), the film tells the story of an aging Polish Jew in New York and a troubled teenage girl, who are brought together by the reappearance of a mysterious book from the past. fcjbarcelona.org
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LES MALETES DE WALTER BENJAMIN Last chance to see the collaborative project that presents the life and thinking of the Berlin-born philosopher. Arts Santa Mònica. Until September 24th.
FREDDIE FOR A DAY Celebrate what would have been the 71st birthday of Freddie Mercury with Momo’s ‘Queen Best Tribute’ show. 8pm. Sala Apolo.
VIRGINIA AND THE WOOLFS Based on the rhythm and blues of the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies, this band offers an authentic AfricanAmerican musical experience. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club.
JORGE BLASS Be dazzled by the exciting world of magicians with the latest theatrical production, ‘Word of the Wizard’, by Spanish illusionist Jorge Blass. Teatre Poliorama. Sept 7th-Oct 8th.
EXPOSITION INAUGURATION OF PATUFETS I TEBEOS A selection of comics, popular imagery and story books starting with the children’s magazine En Patufet, first published in 1904. La Casa dels Entremesos. Sept 7th-Oct 15th.
BAND OF HORSES See the Seattle band perform tracks from their new album, Why are you ok? 9pm. Sala Apolo.
FESTIVAL ALTAVEU One of the oldest music festivals in Catalunya is back to celebrate its 29th edition with a selection of artists from the international music scene. Sant Boi de Llobregat. 8th, 9th & 10th.
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TAKE OVER Barcelona and Berlin artists come together to transform an urban city space into an artistic oasis with this bold and creative street art event. 7pm. Nau Bostik.
OSCAR PIERRE The founder and CEO of Glovo kick starts the ‘First Tuesday España’ training and networking series with a talk on startups, innovation and business. 7pm. Fàbrica Moritz.
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MAMAS GUN The soul band revolutionising the British music scene is in Barcelona with a unique performance of soul, funk and pop. 10pm. Jamboree.
FESTIVAL DE CINEMA JUEU (12TH)
PALO ALTO MARKET The first market of the season is back with a range of local brands, emerging designers, street food trucks, workshops and performances from artists, including Rising Drops and Marina Tuset. Palo Alto Market. 2nd & 3rd.
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SUBIRACHS: PAPER AND SCULPTURE Galeria Eude exhibits a selection of original ink drawings, etchings, lithographs and small sculptures by Catalan artist Josep Maria Subirachs, to commemorate the 90th anniversary of his birth. Galeria Eude. Until October 28th.
SAT URDAY
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FRIDAY
CATALINA JARAMILLO: THE WORDS OF THE OPTIMIST Explore the latest drawing series by the Colombian artist, which is centred around ‘love’, ‘death’, ‘life’ and ‘end’. Galeria Senda. Opens Sept 4th.
T HURSDAY
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WED NE SDAY
PAUL WELLER (14TH)
TU ESDAY
INCOGNITO British acid jazz band Incognito perform in this year’s Mas i Mas Festival with a selection of funk, soul and jazz tunes. 9pm. Palau de la Música.
MONDAY
FESTA MAJOR DE POBLENOU Don’t miss the fun and festivities in honour of Poblenou with processions, presentations, a cinema screening, and digital workshops in honour of the neighbourhood’s tech-savvy reputation. Rambla del Poblenou. 8th-17th.
DÍA DE BRASIL Celebrate all things Brazilian at this festival dedicated to the country’s heritage, with music concerts, traditional food and children’s activities throughout the day. 12pm. Poble Espanyol.
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BRUNCH IN THE PARK Making Sunday your favourite day of the week, Brunch presents projects by emerging designers, activities and workshops for kids, food trucks and, of course, electronic music. 1pm. Plaça de Les Sardanes.
LOS MAMBO JAMBO The Barcelona-based band perform their explosive mixture of rock and roll, rhythm and blues, and surf and swing, for one night only as part of the Mas i Mas festival. 9.30pm. Teatro Grec. .
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SUN DAY
DÍA DE BRASIL (10TH)
SEPTEMBER 2017
THIS MONTH
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BARCELONA '92 IMAGES (UNTIL SEPT 26TH)
BROSSA POETRY Explore a comprehensive collection of the works of this artist, including his early books, visual investigations, work in theatre, cinema, music and more. MACBA. Sept 21st-Feb 25th.
THE HOLE ZERO After the success of The Hole and The Hole 2, the saga returns with a mix of circus, burlesque, cabaret, music and humour in this spectacular show. Teatre Coliseum. Sept 20thNov 12th.
STARTUP BOOTCAMP INSURTECH For tech-savvy entrepreneurs, this international tour offers mentoring to the best talents within the insurance and technology fields with a fast track day. 8.30am. Jardinets del Gràcia.
LA PEGATINA The Catalan group perform an electrifying mix of Catalan rumba and ska music to produce an emotional and explosive performance. 8.30pm. Sala Apolo.
THE ROLLING STONES Rock and roll to the rhythm of The Rolling Stones on their No Filter world tour. 9pm. Estadi Olímpic.
ON PHOTOGRAPHY (3) This series of conversations focuses on Susan Sontag’s pivotal essay, On Photography (1977). 7pm. La Virreina.
BLANK BY NASSIM SOLEIMANPOUR The Iranian author invites 19 interpreters to recite a text without having read it before and without direction. Sala Muntaner. Sept 20thOct 15th.
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TATTOO EXPO For anyone looking for a new tattoo or simply interested in the art of inking, head to this three-day event with a selection of international exhibitors. Fira Barcelona. Sept 29th-Oct 1st.
PHOTOGENIC FESTIVAL Projects by emerging new talents from the world of photography are displayed in a selection of the city’s finest galleries. Various locations. Sept 29th-Oct 1st.
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FESTIVAL DE LA MERCÈ Take part in the city’s annual La Mercè celebrations, with a series of concerts, street processions, traditional dances and much more. Various locations. 22nd-25th.
LADY GAGA The American superstar comes to Barcelona on her Joanne World Tour. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
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GAMBEAT WEEKEND The Fifties and Sixties rock and roll music festival is back with a range of international bands, DJs and pool party. Poble Espanyol. 15th-17th.
THE DRUMS American indie-pop band The Drums bring their Smiths-esque vibe to the city with their melancholic new album Abysmal Thoughts. 9pm. Razzmatazz.
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FESTA MAJOR DE BARCELONETA Join the festivities of this seafaring neighbourhood with music concerts, correfocs, castellers and more. Barceloneta. Sept 29th-Oct 2nd.
SWAB INTERNATIONAL ART FAIR An assortment of projects from young and emerging talent in contemporary art from a selection of international galleries, curated projects and collections. Pavellón Italiano. Fira de Barcelona. Sept 30th-October 1st.
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BAM MUSIC FESTIVAL As part of the Mercè celebrations, BAM (Barcelona Acció Musical) brings a selection of concerts, from independent folk to electronic artists, including Glowie, Samaris and JFDR. Various locations. 23rd-25th.
PORTUGAL ALIVE FESTIVAL The fourth edition of the music festival features three Portuguese bands: Pega Monstro, Sensible Soccers and Gala Drop. Plaça de Joan Coromines.
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HOT SKATES DISCO Party on wheels to the sounds of funk, hip-hop, R&B, breaks, house, disco, afrobeats and soul with this groovy disco night. 8pm. Catwalk Barcelona Club.
SOUNDEAT The eighth edition of this one-day food and music festival returns with a mix of house, disco and indie DJs, live bands and an army of food trucks. 1pm. Plaça de Leonardo de Vinci.
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JOAQUÍN SABINA (13TH)
FIGURATIVAS 2017 & ARC SALON Two international competitions unite to exhibit the latest artworks from some of the best figurative artists across the world. MEAM. Sept 22ndNov 26th.
LA MERCÈ FESTA MAJOR Celebrate Catalan culture and the patron saint la Mercè with the main events of the festival taking place on this day. Various Locations.
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JAMIE JONES Blow off some steam at this all-day party taking place at Row 14, with headlining techno DJ Jamie Jones. 11am. Row 14.
MALUMA Let this Colombian singer take you on a journey through Latin America with his chart-topping hits. 9.30pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
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FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
RAMON PICHOT Works by the Barcelona-born 20thcentury artist are exhibited in this temporary exhibition. MNAC. Sept 28th-Jan 21st 2018.
ALEJANDRO JODOROWSKY. CABARET MÍSTICO Let this healer eradicate fear and insecurities from your subconscious through simple and practical exercises. 9pm. Teatre Tivoli.
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HOKI See 60 works by Japanese realist artists from the Hoki Museum in Tokyo. MEAM. Sept 21st-Nov 30th.
ABSOLUTE BOWIE Celebrate the music of David Bowie for one night only with this British tribute band. 9pm. Sala Bikini.
SWAN LAKE The internationally renowned Moscow Ballet perform Tchaikovsky’s famous ballet. Teatro Tivoli. 13th-24th.
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FESTIVAL DE CINEMA JUEU Conceived with the objective of highlighting the Jewish culture of Barcelona and Catalunya, the 19th edition of this cinema festival presents 13 films. Filmoteca de Catalunya. 12th-30th.
OPEN HOUSE As part of La Diada celebrations, take advantage of free admission to prominent buildings across the city, including the Palau de la Generalitat and Catalan Parliament. Various locations.
PAUL WELLER One of the most influential British artists of his generation, Paul Weller presents his new solo album A Kind Revolution. 8pm. Razzmatazz.
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JOAQUÍN SABINA The master of contemporary Spanish music is back on tour with his latest album, La Niego Todo. 10pm. Palau Sant Jordi.
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NICHOLAS NIXON An exhibition of work by the American photographer from throughout his career. Fundació Mapfre. Sept 12thJan 7th.
LA DIADA Celebrate Catalan pride with an independence demonstration organised by the Catalan Assembly, and a series of concerts throughout the city. Various locations.
BAND OF HORSES (8TH)
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CROSS-CULTURAL
COMEDY DONNCHADH TIERNAN TALKS TO VALENCIAN COMEDIAN XAVI CASTELLS ABOUT HIS ENGLISH STAND-UP ACT
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meet Xavi Castells at his first-storey apartment in Barcelona. It’s a pleasant day, if a little hot, and he greets me with a beer and a smile. His computer is open on the table showing a page half-filled with words. He jokingly covers the screen to block some comedy gold or other from my view. Like me, Xavi is a stand-up comedian. Unlike me, however, he does not need to tag a humble ‘aspiring’ on to the front of his title. Four years ago he made the leap into life as a full-time artist. Since then, it has paid for everything from his flat and his food, to his clothes and his holidays. That is no mean feat. I first met Xavi through the English-language comedy scene in Barcelona. “I truthfully prefer English-speaking stand-up comedy,” said Xavi, citing Bill Burr and Jimmy Carr as particular favourites. “I think it’s superior to Spanish stand-up, for the simple reason that Spanish stand-up comedy is so young. It can’t be more than 15 or 16 years old. In English comedy, you can talk about so many more things at the moment, and, besides that, Barcelona has easily the best English-language scene in Spain.”
“The first time I tried it was in Seattle. At first I was just translating my Spanish act, but I found it was getting no response” If anyone would know, it would be Xavi. When he first arrived in Barcelona from his native Valencia over a decade ago, Xavi began attending as many gigs as he could, even starting a blog entitled ‘Friki de la Comedia’ (comedy nerd) to chronicle his fandom. It was his first experience writing about the world of comedy and it wouldn’t be his last. But, before he was to break into the comedy scene, Xavi had some living to do. “Moving to Leeds was the best thing I ever did. I didn’t know any English so I had to learn from scratch, working in a kitchen job where I had no previous experience.” Prior to this, Xavi had been a textiles salesman, but with big changes on the cards in that industry, he decided to broaden his horizons by learning English. “It was great, but at the beginning I hated it. I didn’t know anybody except the guy who got me the job; the weather was
terrible and the food was... well, anyway, eventually I got past all that and made a life for myself. I worked hard in my English classes and I stayed for three years. I read somewhere once that you should change your life every five years. That was the first time that I really changed mine.” His next major change came when he accepted the post of Maître D’ at a swanky Barcelona hotel. Any successful spell in the hospitality industry is a taste of comedy performing, which is something that I can also attest to. “You’re like an ambassador for the city when you do that job, but you’re reading from somebody else’s script and it really just made me want to write my own.” When it comes to writing, Xavi is hard-working and meticulous. Every morning he wakes up early and writes three pages: “[I wake up] at 7am for some reason; I must be getting old.” It’s another one of the rules he lives by—he’s quoted a handful since I entered the apartment. When he started out in comedy, while still manning the wheel at the hotel, he used to attend a gig every night in Barcelona in order to constantly improve. Within a year, he had left the hotel to work as a stand-up comedian. That was Spanish comedy, then came English. “The first time I tried it was in Seattle, where I went with a 90day holiday visa. At first I was just translating my Spanish act, but I found it was getting no response. I was gigging there every night so I was able to improve a lot. I created one of the characters that I still use in my English act today—a clueless foreign guy who doesn’t understand the culture.” So far, so Yakov Smirnoff, but if that makes you think less of his act, think again. Xavi won The Hague’s 2015 prestigious international competition and took his act on a tour of the Balkans on the strength of that. Since then, he has performed on legendary stages around the world, including New York’s Gotham Comedy Club and at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, where he’ll return next year, as well as doing numerous spots on Comedy Central. For now though, Xavi is approaching the next five-year mark in his life and must give some thought to his immediate future. “It might involve moving to Madrid, because that’s where all the TV is and that’s where I’d like to develop my next set of projects. I’m developing a few different things at the moment, but I’ll go for whatever allows me to put my personality out there most. I’ve moved through a series of jobs that I’ve liked a lot, so working hard is very enjoyable for me. I also feel I’ve been very lucky.” Xavi is entitled to his opinion, but, after hearing his story, it seems that hard work, rather than luck, has brought him this far. Luck may pay the rent once or put beer in your glass, but hard work will get you a refill. Catch Xavi every Friday in Hotel Ciutat del Prat at 10pm and every Sunday on the rooftop of Jazz Hotel at 8pm. He can be heard every Wednesday on Ràdio Kanal Barcelona at 11am cohosting The Weekly Noticias with Tim Parfitt.
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PHOTO ESSAY
STORIES OF BARCELONA
VICTORIA POLITI WILLIAMS REVEALS THE SECRETS AND STORIES OF PEOPLE’S LIVES THROUGH HER LENS
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have been working as a professional photographer for 14 years and have found inspiration in the different countries where I have lived: from England, Italy and Spain, to Japan and Indonesia. My passion for photographing people started when I went to Kyoto. I spent time on the streets, studying and photographing the exquisite geisha girls, with their dolllike looks. This experience led to my first exhibition, ‘Contained’, which consisted of portraits of women displayed in jars and bags of water. Since then, I have had a fascination with capturing the lives and stories of people through imagery. My two favourite cities are Brighton and Barcelona. In both places, there are interesting things to photograph at every turn. Down every street there are fascinating characters, bands playing funky music, even quirky locals walking their pet pigs! There is always a story to be told. Running my own photographic studio in the city has been an amazing experience and insight into Barcelona’s culture. I love capturing the soul of the people that walk into my studio and revealing their personality through a single image. It’s a real challenge but it pushes me to transform stunning images into bespoke art. “You can look at a picture for a week and never think of it again. You can also look at a picture for a second and think of it all your life.” Joan Miró
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WHEN LANGUAGE IS CHILD’S PLAY TIPS TO MAKE SURE YOUR POLYGLOT TOTS GAIN THE LANGUAGE FLUENCY YOU MAY ONLY DREAM OF By Rachel Huffman
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aising children to speak several languages is both appealing and necessary for most parents living abroad. Although you may only be able to dream about being fluent in Spanish and Catalan, with some thought, dedication and creativity, it can be second nature to your children. From the start, every family should define what multilingualism means for them. For some families, having the ability to understand many languages will be enough, while other parents expect their children to be able to communicate effortlessly in all the languages they’re exposed to. Others may feel strongly about their native language being their kids’ primary language and will leave it up to school, friends and the community to develop their Spanish and Catalan language skills. It’s important to be proactive from the beginning. Children learn best from native speakers of a language, so speak to your child in your mother tongue from birth. As they grow, you can use more advanced vocabulary, share jokes and ask questions. When parents stick to their mother tongue, there’s also less chance that they will teach their children the language incorrectly. Marianne, originally from the US, who is raising her three children in Barcelona, said, “My husband (who is Spanish) travelled a lot when our kids were small, and when he was away, we would only speak English at home. He found it hard to come back and be the only one speaking Spanish, so he began speaking to them in English as well. Not only did they not learn Spanish until they were older and had begun school in Barcelona, but they also picked up a few bad pronunciation habits like pronouncing the ‘w’ in ‘sword’.” This theory works the other way around, too. No matter how long you’ve lived in Barcelona, or how well you speak the language, a native speaker will always be a better example than you. It’s fine for your children to hear you speaking to your neighbours in Catalan or ordering dinner in Spanish, but for the major development of those two languages, it’s best to let them learn from native teachers and classmates, read books and watch TV in Spanish and Catalan. This also poses the question of whether it’s more beneficial to send your children to public school or one of the many international schools in the city. In public schools in Catalunya, classes are taught primarily in Catalan. If this is a new language for your child when he or she starts school, it may take longer to settle in and feel comfortable,
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though it is likely to lead to better long-term integration into the local community for the whole family. If you don’t speak Catalan or Spanish, then communicating with teachers that don’t speak English could be an issue for you. When it comes to international schools, there are two identifiable groups to choose from. The first type of international school teaches children in their native language, following the curriculum of their ‘home’ country, and may or may not teach Spanish as a second language. These schools typically offer the International Baccalaureate, which is comprised of four well-respected programmes of international education. This option ensures that children will become proficient at reading and writing in their native language, while becoming fluent in a second, third or fourth.
Raising multilingual children is not always easy, but it’s worth the effort The second group teaches students in their native language, but follows a curriculum based on the Spanish national system, leading to the Bachillerato from ages 16 to 18, after which students will take their university entrance exam. In this school setting, Spanish will most likely be spoken socially. Some believe that pupils of these international schools become more proficient in languages in general, with the local language and a compulsory foreign language taught at school. It’s normal that your children will treat one of their languages as less important than the others. Maybe it’s the language they use and hear less frequently, or the language they find more difficult. This doesn’t mean they can’t still become multilingual. It’s up to you to find ways to engage with your children in their minority language. Janice, from the UK, said, “When my son started attending a local school at the age of three and was spending less time with me (the only person speaking English to him), I noticed a decline in his spoken English as Catalan became his primary language. I decided to take him on playdates with other English-
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speaking kids, and we enrolled in some English-speaking after-school activities.” You might even consider enlisting a paid babysitter who speaks the ‘least important’ language to look after your children occasionally. It helps tremendously for them to hear that their parent isn’t the only one who speaks this language. They may well conclude that they don’t really need to know a language if only one person they interact with speaks it. Raising multilingual children is not always easy, but it’s worth the effort. Kids who speak multiple languages in Barcelona have the advantage of being able to communicate with the increasingly varied groups of people in the city, from making diverse friendships on the playground today to networking internationally when they start their career. Research also shows that people who speak more than one language enjoy increased brain activity that leads to advantages in focus and cognition, as well as a sharper memory. So create a plan as a family, start encouraging language learning early, and don’t get too worried if your children start out by speaking their own hybrid language, mixing all the languages they’re being exposed to. The words will work themselves out in the end.
MET PEOPLE
What’s the biggest challenge in relation to raising bilingual children?
NANCY
Age: 45 From: Scotland Profession: Art teacher One of the biggest challenges of raising bilingual children here in Catalunya is being able to help them with their Spanish/Catalán grammar homework. As they get older, it becomes more difficult.
SUPPORTING MULTILINGUALISM AT HOME BE PATIENT The old cliché says children’s minds are like sponges, but the reality is that each child learns language skills at his or her own speed. Raising multilingual children is a commitment that will have countless ups and downs. Be patient and know that there will be times when doubt sneaks in. READ ALOUD Reading to your children in your native language is a triedand-tested way to help them develop all the skills for linguistic proficiency. As your children begin to read on their own, make sure you keep enough reading material around the house. Visit local libraries and bookshops to provide them with new books, comics and magazines in all their languages. TRAVEL WHEN YOU CAN A trip to a country where the minority language is spoken is one of the most powerful ways to promote language development and cultural understanding. Being in an exciting new place where everyone speaks their third or fourth language, children can better grasp the value of that language. They can practise with native speakers they meet and will associate the language with all those memories years later. ENCOURAGE THEM TO PRACTISE As kids grow up, they still need to practise—especially the minority language. Play off their interests to motivate them. If your daughter loves Marvel Comics characters, ask her to watch cartoons and movies about them in the language she uses least often. If your son likes to write, suggest he finds a pen pal to practise his writing skills.
NARDI
Age: 38 From: The Netherlands Profession: Aviation The challenge is to get an answer in the same language as I asked the question.
SUSIE
Age: 42 From: Scotland Profession: Freelance translator The hardest thing is knowing that even if they can speak the language, my kids will never be Scottish and will never really understand my culture, no matter how often I take them to Scotland.
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WORKING LIFE
startup of the month
HOUSFY
Founders of Housfy, Albert Bosch (left) and Miquel Mora (right).
CO-FOUNDER AND CEO ALBERT BOSCH, 33, BARCELONA Housfy is an alternative to a real estate agent. We give house sellers the tools and support to do it by themselves. We cover all the legal issues, as well as sales and marketing. We cover everything. The seller is the one opening the door and deciding the price, but we give them all the support they need in order to do that. Currently, the property industry in Spain is not transparent. You must have 100 percent faith in your estate agent. It’s very expensive and you don’t know what’s going on with your house. The cost of doing it with us is almost zero. The seller makes the decisions and receives the full amount—our commission is not hidden within the sale price. This means that even if we sell a house at a lower price, the seller still receives the same amount of money, if not more, when compared with a standard real estate agent. Consequently, we are offering a quicker turnaround and cheaper service. The digital industry works in trends. Seven years ago, the big thing was coupons, two years ago, deliveries. I wanted to start a business and it was clear to me that it had to be something that’s a current trend. I realised that the property tech movement was working in the UK and the US. I researched lots of different models and adapted it to make it work in the industry in Spain, as the market is very different here. We set up the business six months ago. The first challenge we faced was to check whether this idea could work in Spain. We concluded that it could work
and there is a big market for it. Our challenge now is to scale up the business. In order to do so, we need to work on communication. When you talk to people about the business, people love the idea, and our clients, so far, have been very happy. The other challenge is client confidence. It is disappointing when a client is thinking about selling their house with us but in the end decides to go with a traditional estate agent. We can do it faster, cheaper and at market price, but some people don’t want to be the first to test it. We want to say, ‘Hey! This is working, don’t be afraid’. We have to break down these barriers. In order to start up a business, the idea has to be on trend. You also have to have the right contacts, and knowledge of the the industry. You need people who can help you in a set amount of time. You need money, and in order to get money you need to propose a hot investment. If you are starting up a business that isn’t hot, it’s going to be very difficult for you to raise money, even if you are the best in the world. Barcelona is currently the fourth most important city in the world for digital companies. Some European companies are starting to put their operational headquarters here because the talent is good. The Catalan government are trying to develop this industry in Barcelona and are keen to promote hubs like Pier 01, where we are based. It’s a great city for starting up a business.
GET INSPIRED... STARTUPBOOTCAMP INSURTECH FASTTRACK IN BARCELONA TBC. September 26th. 8.30am-4pm. As part of its international tour, Startupbootcamp stops off in Barcelona to unite startups and experts from around Europe. The event features presentations from startup founders, followed by mentoring and feedback from industry experts. There will also be a chance to network, helping local startups to build-up their international contacts. startupbootcamp.org
RAINDANCE SUMMER EVENT
BARCELONA STARTUP WEEK
Barceloneta Beach. September 6th. 6pm-8pm. A great chance for members of the film industry to network in an informal and relaxed environment. Film enthusiasts will have the opportunity to meet local and international producers, directors, film-makers and more industry professionals, whilst partying on the beach. The event is open to all, and guests are encouraged to bring friends, as well as their towels and business cards. www.raindance.org
Various Locations. September 18th-22nd For five days, Barcelona will celebrate its startup scene with a series of conferences led by international entrepreneurs. Speakers will share tips: from how to use social media and how to hack the gender gap, to health and safety challenges and how to connect to your target market. There will also be an opening party on September 18th at 8pm, and networking events throughout the week. barcelona.startupweek.co
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WORKING LIFE
RUN THE WORLD NON-TRADITIONAL, FEMALEFOCUSED NETWORKING EVENTS ARE ENCOURAGING WOMEN TO GET OUT THERE AND PUSH THE GLASS CEILING. By Helen Iles
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omen’s networking in Barcelona is moving away from working the room and handing out business cards, and towards storytelling and making authentic connections. Could this ‘softer’ approach be just what we need to create not only friendships, but community too? What’s more, are these models helping both women and men in Barcelona to find a new way to relate to each other? Work plays a crucial role when it comes to settling in a new place. In addition to financial support, it offers a route to participation and building a sense of belonging. In Europe, one of the most likely questions to follow ‘where are you from?’ is ‘what do you do?’, but for women, describing ‘what they do’ is often not that simple. In a traditional working world, women’s tendency towards nonspecialisation can be seen as a weakness, but women were rocking the multiple revenue path of income generation long before it was a mainstream trend. Hubdot have taken this perceived weakness of career diversification in women and made it a strength, growing from a small gathering around a kitchen table in London to a global community of over 31,000 in just five years. Using different coloured dots, Hubdot events connect people according to whether they are established and can offer advice (red); have an idea or need help (yellow); are there to socialise and meet new people (blue); are in a lull and need inspiration (green); or have a story to tell (purple). “When women’s voices are heard it gives things a new feel, a new direction.” said Kate Jess, Hubdot co-ordinator in Barcelona. “This is networking en femenino.” Marisa Lopez agrees. In her new home of Sitges, she found she was lacking a support network. So she took matters into her own hands and started CCC Inc, a group for women entrepreneurs. “I have seen an incredible spirit of collaboration, support, generosity and mentorship. It’s a safe environment that gives us the opportunity to be vulnerable, experiment, or ask for guidance. There is a true desire and willingness to share knowledge and resources.” Coorganiser, Hannah Tait, is also enthusiastic about the women-only
approach. “There have been moments when people have blossomed because they’ve been in that environment. I don’t know if that would have happened if there had been men involved, because I think some women get inhibited.” Although principally a social network, Barcelona Women’s Network has a small business and entrepreneurs group that served as the entry point for current BWN President Lisette Sandoval. “I have experienced the hardcore sales network, which is great for some, particularly men, but many women, especially European women, tend not to like that approach.” Sandoval feels that shyness can be a barrier for women and is convinced that an all-female environment encourages women to open up, participate and collaborate. “The bond of women and sisterhood goes much deeper. They really do become friends.” While CCC Inc and BWN remain women-only, Belgium-based events organiser Kiran Maverick welcomes men to his womenoriented events. Kiran initiated a female-focused platform after the scarcity of women speakers at his conferences became obvious. The first edition of the event in Barcelona took place this June, as part of a global tour. “We created ‘I am Tomorrow’ to showcase female role models. It’s not about success, it’s about the journey. At I am Tomorrow, Barcelona, we had 30+ speakers from 20 countries. When they hear these stories, people can relate. It’s not about a man or a woman. We have to respect people around us.” The next edition in Barcelona is scheduled for May 2018. The Professional Women’s Network is a global organisation with an active group in Barcelona. For them, the emphasis is on gender balance, so much so that in June 2017, they appointed Rob Baker as co-president of their global board. Baker’s wife and PWN member, Eímear O’Neill tells how, as a stay-at-home husband, Baker became familiar with the challenges women face when trying to progress in the business world. “It’s exciting that Rob has been appointed to this role, because he is able to bring a male perspective to the issue.” said O’Neill. “This is not just a women’s issue, it’s a global issue. We need to understand the biases of both genders.”
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One of the things that O’Neill has noticed is that women, in general, tend to take fewer risks than men. As Hubdot Barcelona begins to welcome men to its gatherings, Jess has also picked up on distinct behavioural differences. “In a Hubdot event, very few women will put on a red dot. Whereas men, they’re all red dots. We need to say to women that it’s ok to champion what you do and to men, that it’s ok to admit ‘I could do with some help with this’.” Danish investment analyst, Victoria Gago, 30, believes that this trend is changing as women are becoming more financially independent. She moved to Barcelona three years ago and works for a private equity fund, Black Toro Capital. Working in a notoriously male-dominated sector, Gago was in search of a group of like-minded women with whom she could share ideas and develop professionally. So, in 2016, she created Accelerate Network—a diverse, cross-sector group of young professional women—with the primary objective of empowering women, helping them grow, and encouraging them to push the glass ceiling. “Who runs the world? Today, it’s primarily men, but I’m working towards a future of equality; a world led by women and men will form a stronger society and business world,” said Gago. “The idea of Accelerate Network is to help women to grow and evolve. You have to ask for more.” Gago organises workshops to which she invites inspiring guest speakers, male and female, from varying sectors—people who she believes can help the group achieve their objectives. The intimate events encourage interaction and involvement from all sides, and have proved to be a resounding success so far. “When you bring this incredible group of young women together, the dynamic is inspiring. We all come away so energised; I can barely sleep afterwards,” exclaimed Gago. Perhaps that feeling is what any networking experience should be about.
NETWORKING GROUPS HUBDOT Unlike traditional networking events, Hubdot encourages conversations to start with ‘what’s your story?’ rather than ‘what do you do?’. Now established in over 15 cities worldwide, Hubdot hold a variety of events, such as talks, workshops and supper clubs, to get women talking. hubdot.com
CCC INC. Founded upon the idea of working together and supporting each other, this is an Entrepreneurial Women’s Network for women based in and around Sitges, who are looking to start or are already running their own businesses. facebook.com/cccincnetwork
PROFESSIONAL WOMEN’S NETWORK Part of PWN Global, a network of over 3,500 members from 90 different countries, which promotes the professional progress of women through all their career phases, from potential through the pipeline to power by mentoring, training and networking. www.pwnglobal.net
BARCELONA WOMEN’S NETWORK The Barcelona Women’s Network is a non-profit, non-religious, and non-political social and charitable organisation offering support and friendship to both local and international women residing in the greater Barcelona area. The network formed in 1998 and has approximately 210 members from over 20 different countries. bcnwomensnetwork.com
ACCELERATE NETWORK Founded by Danish investment analyst, Victoria Gago, Accelerate is a select group of young professional women who meet for intimate workshops with experienced speakers. Apply for membership online. acceleratenetwork.es
SHE SAID SO Founded in 2014 by Andreea Magdalina in London, She Said So is a platform that connects more than 2,000 women working in the music industry, with branches in Barcelona, Berlin, LA among others. www.shesaid.so
DIARY DATES Photo by Helen Iles
CCC INC. Autumn Weekend Retreat October 6th-8th. Masia Cal Pau Cruset. The weekend will involve workshops run by members of their group who want to share their skills with other women, ranging from yoga and mindfulness meditation to Instagram marketing and leadership skills sessions.
BWN Coffee morning September 21st. 11am. Institut d’Estudi Nord-Americans. Via Augusta 123.
PWN BARCELONA 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks September 12th. 8pm. Grand Hotel Central. Via Laietana 30.
TEDX BARCELONA WOMEN The Brave You November 3rd. 3.30pm. Mazda Space. Comerç 60
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WORKING LIFE
A DAY IN THE LIFE NOAH LEVIN, 36, USA, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF BARCELONA IMPROV GROUP AND THE PRESENT MOMENT Noah administrates the Barcelona Improv Group and the B.I.G. School of Improv, hosts a weekly radio show for Barcelona City FM, and travels Europe teaching improvisation skills to businesses as well as actors and comedians. Every day is different and tasks vary depending on what major events are happening in the coming month.
8AM I’m awake, but I don’t want to be. I take out my phone and catch up with texts or emails in an attempt to be active while still remaining horizontal.
8.30AM Alarm goes off, meaning that it’s time for a shower, coffee, and yoghurt with honey and nuts. Sometimes, in the morning haze, I’Il forget to have one, two, or all three of these. 9AM Grab a Bicing in the Born and bike to Barcelona City FM. When I arrive at the station I meet with Nick Dutton, my co-host, and Jim Kent, the station manager, to review what’s on this week’s show.
10AM We record an episode of ‘Nick and Noah Need Help’, our weekly show to help expats navigate Barcelona by answering their questions, and interviewing a guest who shares their story of acclimatising to Barcelona. 11.15AM Bicing back home to start ‘work’. 11.30AM My working day typically involves making progress on a variety of tasks and projects. Today involved uploading the radio show to the internet and promoting it, confirming details for an upcoming weekend improv retreat and a two-week teaching tour in Poland, contacting businesses about giving in-house applied improv workshops (using the skills of improvisation—agreement, teamwork, creativity, positive communication—to help team cohesion), reviewing photos from our last Barcelona Improv Group show, and, as always, creating newsletters and Facebook posts to gather students and audiences for our upcoming improv shows and classes.
3PM Someone or something will remind me that I haven’t eaten lunch yet, and that I probably should. I usually cook at home and I like to take my time. Sometimes I pop out to the Mercat Santa Caterina for fresh organic meat and veggies. Today I cooked a red curry with shrimp and aubergine. While I cook, I watch YouTube videos of US talk shows, like Late Night with Seth Meyers, Stephen Colbert, Samantha Bee, John Oliver, et al.
4PM Siesta. It took me years to realise how amazing this is. It’s the best perk of working from home. A little snooze and a break from multi-tasking.
5.30PM Coffee! And a little more work. Today, it’s scheduling meetings, preparing for rehearsals, and creating the web page for our upcoming show.
7.30PM Rehearsal with the Barcelona Improv Group.
Photo by Riccardo Salamanna
I love this time. No matter how I’m feeling, even if I’m tired or stressed, within 15 minutes of warming up, I am in a new place. We challenge ourselves to be emotive, connected, funny, dramatic, and have fun throughout.
10PM Time to go home (only a five-minute walk from the studio). Sometimes I finish up some urgent work. This week was filming and editing a two-minute video to promote my workshops in Poland.
12AM I’ll be texting my girlfriend when I realise that I haven’t eaten dinner. Yikes! Looks like it’s reheated curry. 1AM Shut the computer, brush my teeth and go to bed.
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TRAVEL
A WEEKEND IN
CÉRET THERE’S NO SHORTAGE OF CULTURE OR HISTORY IN THIS CHARMING FRENCH TOWN By Rosalind Bond
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hen it comes to the south of France, it’s hard to picture anywhere more typical than Céret. This medieval village has everything you’d expect from the region: an artistic past, leafy squares, a busy market, and streets lined with terraces where locals stop for a coffee. However, if you look a little closer, you’ll see a Catalan flavour lies amidst the French countryside idyll. Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the shadow of mount Canigó, you can find the red and yellow stripes of the Catalan flag, sardana dancing and stalls selling roses and books on April 23rd, El Día de Sant Jordi—not surprising, given that Céret is situated in French Catalunya, the area that was ceded to France by the 1660 Treaty of the Pyrenees. Nevertheless, a French ambience prevails, and although just 20 minutes north of the Spanish border, a weekend break here feels a world apart. Le Grand Cafe
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SATURDAY
Pont du Diable
Your surroundings may ooze laid-back conviviality, but that’s no excuse to sleep in. Get your day off to an early start at the Saturday market, which is at its best between 9am and 11am. Strolling through this local street market, lined by rustic buildings, is a treat for the senses. Absorb the sights and smells of the locally produced fruit and vegetables, olives, cheeses, cured meats and wines. If you’re after non-edible products, you’ll also find flower stalls bursting with colour, as well as jewellery and pottery stands. Continue exploring with a walking tour past some of the town’s most prominent buildings. Start at Maison Delcros (3 Rue des Évadés de France), the ancient building in which Picasso lived and had his workshop during his time in Céret (1911-13). A two-minute walk from here takes you to Place de la Liberté, where you’ll find the town’s war memorial, topped with Aristide Maillol’s sculpture of a woman, named La Douleur (meaning sorrow). From here, move onto the 13th-century Porte d’Espagne, a gateway through the town’s former medieval walls that faces towards Spain. Burrowing into the heart of the old town, you’ll find the imposing Church of Saint Peter, records of which go back to the year 814. Finally, it’s just a short walk from here to the Porte de France on Rue du Commerce, a sister gateway to the Porte d’Espagne. After all this exercise, it’s time for a sit down in the Place des Neuf Jets (Square of the Nine Jets). This square is named after its central fountain, dating from 1313. It has been modified several times during the course of its life, first in 1479, after the union of the kingdoms of Aragon and Castille, with the addition of a lion statue looking towards Spain. After the 1660 Treaty of the Pyrenees, Louis XIV turned the lion to face France and inscribed ‘Venite Ceretens, leo factus est gallus’ (Come and see, people of Céret, the lion (of Castille) has become a (French) cockerel). During repairs in 2013, the lion was returned to its original position facing Spain. History aside, this pleasant square is full of terraces, the ideal spot for lunch. After lunch, head towards the Pont du Diable (Devil’s Bridge), which is a 20-minute walk north of the town. This bridge dates back to 1321 and is rumoured to have been built by the devil, who demanded, as payment, the first soul who crossed it. It was also the world’s biggest bridge arch at the time of its construction. In the evening, return to Céret for dinner in one of the town’s many lively bistros, such as La Fontaine (10 Place des Neuf Jets), which serves fresh, Catalan cuisine in a relaxed, rustic setting.
Porte d’Espagne
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SUNDAY Céret’s main cultural highlight is the Musée d’Art Moderne (8 Boulevard Maréchal Joffre). The town’s links with many 20thcentury artists led to the opening of the museum in 1950. Over time, the museum has built up a collection of works from several modern masters, including Picasso, Chagall, Matisse and Soutine, as well as more contemporary pieces and a space for travelling exhibitions. Spend the morning here, then keep up the artistic vibes with a pit stop at Le Grand Cafe (2 Rue Saint-Ferréol)—a popular haunt of the artistic crowd in the early 20th century. It’s now an excellent spot for a coffee and an ice cream. In the afternoon, take the Chemins Sublimés walk around town. This will take you past the buildings and scenes that were painted by the artists. A map of this walk is available from the tourist information centre (5 Rue Saint-Ferréol), and next to the buildings there are reproductions of the works they inspired.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
ETTING
THERE
GETTING THERE Car. 2 hours. Public transport. Train Barcelona-Perpignan. 1 hour 20 minutes, from €34 each way. Bus Perpignan-Céret. 30 minutes, €1.
EATING & DRINKING La Fontaine. 10 Place des Neuf Jets. Le Grand Caf. 2 Rue Saint-Ferréol. Bar Le Pablo. 1 Place Pablo Picasso.
SLEEPING Le Papillon. Hotel with a modern design overlooking the Pont du Diable. 6 Place du Pont.
FESTIVALS Cherry festival (end of May) Cherries grown along the River Tech are famous for being the first to ripen in France and, since 1932, a batch has been gifted to the French President every year. The annual Céret Cherry Festival is a weekend of markets, music, dancing and a wide array of cherry-based produce, from cherry wine to beer and pie. Fête patronale (September 18th or following Sunday) Celebration of the town’s patron saint, Saint Ferréol. Feria (second weekend of July) A weekend of festivities, when the town is taken over by markets, music, street entertainment and al fresco eating and drinking. One of the main events is a bull run and bull fight, but if this isn’t for you, there are plenty of other activities to keep you entertained. Sardana Festival (weekend after Feria) Groups of dancers congregate in the streets and squares to perform the traditional Catalan dance.
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TRAVEL
FLOAT ON
FEEL LIKE FLYING? A BALLOON RIDE OVER THESE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES WILL LEAVE YOU FULL OF HOT AIR
W
ith a number of operators across Catalunya, hot air ballooning is a chance to see the region from a new perspective and discover places that are inaccessible or can’t be easily explored by land, from the peaks of the Pyrenees to the crystalline Mediterranean. In the age of Google Earth, when aerial views are no longer a novelty, there is still nothing that compares with the feeling of peace, tranquility and escape that can be experienced floating serenely hundreds of metres up—an unforgettable experience for those with a sense of adventure.
MONTSERRAT The finger-like rock formations of the Montserrat mountain range, Spain’s first National Park, rise abruptly from the ground and disappear just as suddenly into the rolling vineyards of the surrounding Penedès region. Home to a Benedictine monastery, the 1200-metre-high rocky outcrop has inspired many, including Gaudí, and has been an important place of pilgrimage since the 12th century. A hot air balloon ride offers a bird’s-eye view of this extraordinary geological feature.
LA GARROTXA With 40 extinct volcanoes and 20 lava flows, La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park is one of the best-preserved volcanic landscapes on the Iberian Peninsula. Rich and varied vegetation, predominantly oaks, beech and alder trees, make up the landscape surrounding these sleeping giants, which pock-mark the Earth’s surface in a range of shapes and sizes. As 98 percent of the park is private property, much of the zone cannot be explored on foot, so a balloon ride here offers a rare chance to witness the beauty of the zone and its natural colours, which are particularly rich as autumn approaches. On clear days, views can stretch as far as the Pyrenees and the sea.
PYRENEES A national park since 1967, the Catalan Pyrenees, with their dramatic panoramas, steep valleys and centuries-old towns, are a spectacular sight. Ski slopes, winding trails, hilltop castles and ancient caves combine to create a mountain paradise for skiers, bikers and hikers alike. Nestled within this extensive mountain range, right on the border between Spain and France, is the Cerdanya valley. This rolling green expanse, dotted with stone villages, is a breath of fresh air between the towering giants of the surrounding Pyrenees. Soaring high above the valley in a hot air balloon enables one to grasp the enormity of the snow-capped mountains beyond.
MORE INFO. All tours last 60-90 minutes and include a glass of cava for passengers.
MONTSERRAT Barcelona Balloon Flights. barcelonaballoonflights.com T. 93 802 3507
LA GARROTXA Vol de Coloms. voldecoloms.cat T. 97 268 0255
COSTA BRAVA
COSTA BRAVA
The beautiful rocky bays and idyllic fishing villages of the Costa Brava are popular with locals and holiday-makers alike. Full of hidden coves and inlets, it is one of the most picturesque stretches of coastline in Europe, extending 255km from Blanes to the French border. Many areas are inaccessible due to the nature of the rugged terrain, leaving sandy beaches and pebbled bays undiscovered by the casual tourist. A ballooning experience allows every twist and turn of the coastline to be observed from the sky, with the Pyrenees on the horizon.
THE PYRENEES
Lifestyle Barcelona. lifestylebarcelona.com T. 93 270 2048
Ballooning Spain. ballooning.es M. 666 424 177
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POOL RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE Located in the hotel’s main pool,
Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I
Pool Restaurant and Lounge offers
Barcelona 08028
Av. Diagonal 661-671
an informal Southern Mediterranean fusion menu with a wide selection of drinks and Champagnes by Veuve Clicquot. Disconnect from the city by immersing yourself in this urban
THE RESTAURANT: Saturday - Sunday 12.30am - 4pm THE LOUNGE:
resort atmosphere.
Everyday 10am - 8pm
For inquiries and bookings, please call or email our restaurant reservations department. +34 93 364 4040 bcn.restaurants@fairmont.com www.fairmont.com/barcelona/
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Entrance for non-guests (VAT included) Adults | 25€ Child 2-12 years of age | 10€ Sunbed reservations not accepted.
6/26/17 2:06 PM 8/21/17 5:59 PM
RESTAURANT REVIEW
A LITTLE TASTE OF INDIA FINDS A PERMANENT HOME IN THE EIXAMPLE By Sam Zucker
S
ince 2015, the Masala73 food truck—a restored and retrofitted 1973 Mercedes-Benz 406 D bus—has been serving flavoursome curries and Indian street food at some of Barcelona’s most popular festivals, including Palo Alto Market, Van Van and Eat Street. Co-founders and chefs Kuldeep Singh and Jordi Aros had years of professional culinary training under their belts at the time, and yearned for something new and liberating; they dreamt of running a kitchen on wheels. Now, two short years after their successful roll out, Singh and Aros have opened a bricks and mortar version of their brainchild. The Masala73 Curry Bar, housed in a narrow but inviting space on Carrer Muntaner near Hospital Clínic, is a welcome addition to Barcelona’s gastronomic offer for all curry fans. The two founders were inspired by the single-mindedness and dedication of Japanese ramen bar chefs, who become masters of their craft by serving one dish in several variations. Instead of miso, shoyo, and shio ramen, Singa and Aros are focusing on Indian curry. Each has its own style and appeal, from the classic and mild Chicken Tikka Masala to a fiery curry of Aragonese lamb, formed into balls and stewed with fresh-ground spices, yoghurt and mint. In addition to the featured curries, Masala73 has brought some of their most popular and delectable food truck dishes from the street and into the kitchen, namely the chilli-spiked Vindaloo tacos filled with curried secreto ibérico de bellota pork, topped with pickled onions
and coriander and served on freshly-grilled chapati bread, instead of a corn tortilla. Upon arrival, we were greeted with smiles from the chefs working in the open kitchen at the entrance to the restaurant, and were quickly led to the back dining area by our apron-clad server. The walls of unsealed cement are charmingly decorated with colourful Hindi lettering, artfully hand-painted and faded to simulate the aging advertisements that one might find surrounding a sun-bleached bus stop on the outskirts of Mumbai. The first dish to arrive was a riff on one of Barcelona’s most beloved tapas, the Bomba de la Barceloneta, a fried ball of mashed potato and ground beef topped with alioli and hot sauce in its traditional form. The Masala73 version cleverly swaps the meat for a vegetarian filling of chickpeas and green peas, topped with a dollop of salsa brava and curry mayonnaise. Chased with an ice-cold swig of India’s popular Kingfisher lager, it’s hard not to love the Bombas Mumbai with their lasting spice and unctuous bite. A tray of crispy fried pakoras (vegetable fritters with garam masala spice and a chickpea batter) served with coriander mint chutney were quickly followed by a deeply flavoursome curry of baby vegetables in a coconut and cashew mid-spice Korma sauce. The vegetables—a vibrant mix of baby courgette, asparagus, broccoli, and pea pods—were sautéed with garlic and just slightly charred. The texture of each was a perfect al dente, the chef having sealed in their bright green colour while cooking to tenderness, without losing
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their satisfying crunch. All the curries at Masala73 are seasoned with freshly ground spices toasted in the pan as a base for each sauce, all made to order. The bright and bold characters of cardamom or cumin can fade in a sauce that is made ahead of time and kept warm throughout the dinner service at some Indian restaurants. Thankfully, this is not the case at Masala73, where the skill and passion of the kitchen staff is evident in each bite, down to the sauce. I wiped up every bit of the rich Korma with triangles of chewy naan, studded with caramelised slivers of garlic and served piping hot from the tandoor oven. The basmati rice was fluffy and without fault, though the black and yellow lentil daal was a bit too soupy for my taste, and forgettable in comparison to all the otherwise audacious flavours of our meal.
All the curries at Masala73 are seasoned with freshly ground spices toasted in the pan as a base for each sauce, all made to order
Masala73 offers their ‘Menú Maharajá’ for €25 per person (not including drinks), which is essentially a tasting menu of three starters, a few sides, naan bread, and a Chicken Tikka Masala curry, plus dessert. There’s also a fixed-price lunch menu of curry with rice, sides, drink, and dessert for just €11.90. Indian desserts have never been my favourite, but I loved Masala73’s carrot cake, served with pistachio ice cream. The cubes of fluffy cake laid on a smear of gajrela (a typical Indian carrot purée/pudding) were moist and full of carrot flavour, and the decadent pistachio ice cream (made by the award-winning gelato experts at DelaCrem on Enric Granados) was the perfect ending to a casual meal that respects tradition while modernising the way diners can savour Indian curries in Barcelona.
Photos courtesy of Masala73
MORE INFO
Muntaner 152 www.masala73.com Lunch Menu del Día: €11.90 Tasting Menu €25/person Opening hours Tues-Sat: 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am Sun-Mon: closed ✪✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED
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QUICK BITES
MORE INFO
Trafalgar 50 buenaventuracafe.es T. 93 541 7924
BUENAVENTURA CAFÉ GIVE VEGAN A GO
I
By Sam Zucker
eat everything. It’s part of my identity; a guy who loves, knows, and has studied food, and who lives and travels to savour every delicious bite possible. For me, ‘gorging’ has often been synonymous with ‘eating’ over the years in Barcelona, so it makes perfect sense that at some point my body and mind would push back, begging for a break in the nearly constant intake of cheese and pork. With that in mind, I recently made a resolution to train myself to enjoy vegetarian, and in some cases, vegan meals, and to limit my daily meat intake. With that in mind, I was delighted to discover the organic, vegetable-centric menu at Buenaventura Café. Who knows how long this dedication to a diversified diet will last, but I never thought I would have enjoyed vegan tacos as much as I did here. Munching away on the crunchy and colourful courgette, kale, pickled onion, and quinoa tacos, presented beautifully with little dishes of vegan almond ‘cheese’, pico de gallo and guacamole, I almost didn’t miss my usual pork and pineapple tacos al pastor... well, almost. Buenaventura Café, run by chef and founder Albert Ventura, offers a variety of salads, sandwiches, quiches, curries, tapas, and more, the majority of which are vegetarian or vegan,
with gluten-free options available. There are also dishes with chicken, salmon and cured ham—reflecting Buenaventura’s ‘organic flexitarianism’ philosophy. For example, the diverse menu includes a classic Eggs Benedict, as well as a vegan version. I was dying to know the composition of the Vegan Eggs Benedict, so we flagged down the waiter, who described a dish of tofu and almond cream sauce, which he swore is a cracking alternative—we passed. The patatas bravas however were absolutely delicious and we needed no convincing; tender chunks of rusty orange boniato, served with vegan alioli and a spicy brava sauce made a welcome adaptation. An array of vegan desserts and some seriously loud wallpaper greet you upon entering Buenaventura Café. From behind the cafe counter they serve up smoothies, smoothie bowls and coldpressed juices, as well as beer, wine, tea and coffee (with your choice of regular, oat, almond, soy, hazelnut or coconut milk). The kitchen works with as much local produce as possible, and the attractive weekday menu offers a starter, plate of the day, drink and dessert for €10.50; an affordable way to give vegan a go and get some more veggies in your life.
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food tales
Every great local food business has a story, that’s what makes them unique and special. Foodie tour guide, Misty Barker, explores some of Barcelona’s tastiest hidden gems.
GRANJA M.VIADER A
uthentic, olde worlde coffee shops can be hard to find, and few evoke a sense of true Catalan spirit like Granja Viader, situated on Carrer d’en Xuclà in the Raval. A plaque lies at the entrance to the shop, awarded by the city council to Barcelona’s most emblematic establishments. These plaques honour the city’s few remaining historical businesses and, whenever you stumble upon one, you know you’re somewhere special. When Barcelona was a walled city, drinking milk wasn’t common. Without refrigeration it didn’t transport well, so it was nearly impossible to find. At the turn of the 19th century, many family businesses decided to overcome the transport problem by bringing cows into the city and keeping them in the back of their shops—indeed the word granja means farm. The Viader family was one such family, and, in 1870, they opened Granja M. Viader, specialising in dairy products. One hundred and fifty years later, the ambience and charm remains; along with the same marble tables where they say Picasso used to sit and ponder over a cup of their legendary xocolata calenta (thick hot chocolate). The same recipe for this tasty drink has been passed down through five generations. Today, the cows are gone, but the family legacy continues and it’s now managed by Mercè Viader, the great granddaughter of the founder, with the help of her two brothers and son. “We are the last dairy factory in the city centre. In our workshop, fresh cheeses are prepared and pasteurised here, just as they always have been,” Viader said proudly. Her favourite products are “the crema catalana, with a recipe over 100 years old, and Cacaolat, of course.” This popular chocolate drink was created by her great uncle, Joan Viader Roger, in 1931. Another notable family achievement. This is one Barcelona coffee shop you should be familiar with. Just a stone’s throw from the tourist trail, here you can indulge your senses in a place steeped in culture and history. Freshly prepared cheeses adorn the counters and with a huge selection of tasty bocadillos, you won’t be left hungry. Tip: Try the mató (cottage cheese); it’s a local favourite and is usually flavoured with some fruit. Carrer d’en Xuclà 6. Mon-Sat 9am-1.15pm, 5pm-9.15pm; Sun closed. granjaviader.cat
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RECIPE
PLUM FRANGIPANE T
here’s no better time of year to get your fruit quota in. Just about everything is in season—with the tail-end of the stone fruit, and the start of autumn hard fruits, like apples and pears—perfect for making fruit-based desserts. Now, a fruit salad is always a lovely thing, but there’s nothing quite like turning these seasonal offerings into a teatime treat. This easy plum frangipane leaves out the tart crust, which is handy if pastry scares you, and is gluten-free, so it's a really useful recipe to have up your sleeve these days with wheat intolerance on the rise.
IN SEASON
INGREDIENTS 10 ripe plums, halved, pits removed 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp softened butter 200 g caster sugar 200 g softened butter
200 g ground almonds 2 eggs Pinch of salt Zest of one orange
SEPTEMBER: PLUMS, APRICOTS, FIGS, QUINCES AND GRAPES
METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 180ºC. 2. Liberally grease a 25cm non-stick tart tin with butter (do not use a loose bottomed tin, as the plums will release a fair amount of juice, which is liable to leak all over your oven). 3. Sprinkle the brown sugar over the butter, then cover the base with the plums, cut to size. 4. In a separate bowl, beat together the sugar, butter and a pinch of salt with an electric whisk until light and creamy. 5. Beat the eggs in one at a time so they are properly amalgamated, then fold in the almond flour and orange zest.
6. Spoon the almond mix over the plums, spreading evenly over the top so that all the fruit is covered. 7. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick emerges clean from the cake when pierced. 8. Remove from oven and leave to cool for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the tin to loosen the edges, then invert the frangipane onto a large plate or cake stand—if you’ve greased the pan well it should come out clean. 9. Leave to cool for another 20 minutes or so, dust with icing sugar and serve with crème fraiche or ice-cream.
Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.
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NEFW &D
FOOD DRINK
& IN
Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has a night for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40 food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking
Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com
TOTORA - EIXAMPLE
MENEGHINA4BORN
Authentic Peruvian recipes with cuttingedge cuisine awaits diners at Totora. The restaurant offers a gastronomical journey of Peru with classics such as cebiche, ají de gallina (spicy chicken stew), and the lomo saltado (sautéed beef tenderloin), alongside new, creative dishes concocted by head chef Pablo Ortega. Diners can enjoy Ortega’s menu, infused with tastes of the sea, or can linger at the restaurant’s long bar to enjoy bartenders cultivate tasty cocktails, including the Peruvian classic, pisco sour. Menu of the day available from 17.50.
Located on a quaint side street close to the convent of Sant Agusti in El Born, Meneghina offers an exciting and innovative combination of Italian and Catalan flavours, tempting desserts and an extensive selection of wines in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh seasonal produce, which changes on a daily basis.
Tiradors 2 I T. 93 119 2221 hola@meneghina.es I www.meneghina.es www.facebook.com/meneghinas Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm
Còrsega 235, 08036 Tel. 93 667 4372 Mon-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11.30pm
ÁNDELE - EIXAMPLE Part of the Ándele Group, this new, modern restaurant in Barcelona’s Eixample district offers an authentic, traditional Mexican cuisine. It combines traditional recipes with new, continuing to surprise and delight diners, whilst ensuring high quality ingredients for every dish. The restaurant also features an attractive bar, where you can enjoy a full selection of tequilas, mescals and various premium distillates used to create delicious cocktails. Average menu price 20 and lunch menu available from 12.90. París 147. 08036 Tel. 93 277 8766 | www.andele.es info@andele.es Mon-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am
BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.
Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com
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BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA Blacklab have a huge range of American Style craft beers made on premises with a Minnesotan brewer. They experiment with their brews like a beer lab. They have four beers all year around, 16 rotating seasonals. Their beer is poured directly from the tanks and you won’t find anything fresher. Their kitchen is non stop and doesn’t close during opening hrs. They serve tasty American Food with Asian touch. Beer tour and beer tasting with their brewers every Sunday at 17h. Also available for big groups at any day.
Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es
8/21/17 4:20 PM
FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC
MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC
Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.
Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.
Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com
Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm
Indian / Tandoori BAR CENTRO4 EIXAMPLE
NICE SPICE4POBLENOU
Bar Centro offers a unique experience when you indulge in one of their burgers. 40-day aged beef of Galician ‘Vaca Vieja’ cooked on the grill is a must-try. Eight craft beer taps go hand in hand with their gastronomic proposal. Don’t miss all four versions of their pulled pork, the homemade nachos, the chilli or the bravas! Everything is handcrafted.
Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food ,which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.
Casp 55. 08010 Metro Tetuan/ Urquinaona Tel. 93 192 5255 www.barcentrobcn.com barcentrobcn@gmail.com Mon-Wed 1pm-11pm Thurs-Fri 1pm-11.30pm Sat 8pm-12am
Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Open everday 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm
BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA
SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Take Away Shop Healthy food cooked in store to take away. Their food begins with ingredients that have been sourced for their freshness and quality. They support local ecological providers. Their dishes are a representation of the seasons and they strive to provide fresh dishes prepared on a daily basis. Check the website for the current menu. Business Catering Súper is specialised in catering for business events and meetings of any size. Contact info@superbcn.es for a detailed overview. Roc Boronat 102, 08018 | Tel: 933 099 838 Mon - Fri: 8am - 6pm | www.superbcn.es | @ superbcnes
Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es
Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es
Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA
GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC
Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.
Founded over 30 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.
Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es
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Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es
AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables and homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.90, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.80. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com
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LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE
TAP DE SURO4EIXAMPLE
Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.
Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.
Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm
Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm
MALPASO4EIXAMPLE This restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend. Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am
CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER4 BARRI GÒTIC Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards.
Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com
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FOR THE BEST BARS, CAFES, AND RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE A-Z DIRECTORY
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HEALTH &BEAUTY
Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR
Doctor for Adults
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers, and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians
Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040
Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST
Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY
Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the fields of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, enuresis (bed wetting) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offer specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic floor disorders.
The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of surgical dermatology and venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics.
Vilana 12, Office 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Office T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista
Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com
Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com
ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working in the health industry and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme. ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest
Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464 / 93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com
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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.
L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm
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FREE CONSULTATION
Dr. Boj - DENTIST
Orthoestetic - DENTIST
Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.
The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their extensive experience, allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in dental aesthetics, and orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults. She is certified by the Invisalign system.
Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org
Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es
Platinum Provider
Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY
Goldie Uttamchandani LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH
Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free.
Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certified Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary first session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness. M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com
Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodonist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technologica advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care. Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm
Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH
Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST
SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a foreign country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.
New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of first-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.
NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com
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50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT
Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com
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Yoga con Gracia - YOGA
Barcelona Quiropractic
An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.
- CHIROPRACTOR Barcelona Quiropractic and its professional team have been serving the Barcelona community since 1995. They value quality service, efficiency and dedication, delivering the best results in the shortest time possible. The team provides a professional, yet friendly and family-oriented environment, catering to a wide range of patients. They aim to promote the integration of chiropractic into your lifestyle, to maintain health and wellbeing. Contact them for more information.
www.yogacongracia.com
Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA
READER OFFER
Bikram Yoga has two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, their international team brings over 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, Pral, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es
Pl. Urquinaona 7, 08010 T. 93 412 3433 M. 601 059 849 info@barcelonaquiropractic.es www.barcelonaquiropractic.es
Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona. He specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has over 23 years of experience managing back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends. 30% OFF FIRST VISIT
Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402 Info@sarriaquiropractica.com http://sarriaquiropractica.es/
READER OFFER
Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST
Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre, located in the Sants district, is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com Craniosacral Institute - OSTEOPATHY
Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difficult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session. M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net
The institute provides services in Craniosacral Osteopathy, SomatoEmotional Release, and Massage Rebalancing, working holistically. The Institute delivers over 22 years’ experience of individual sessions to adults, children and babies. M. 689 786 519 / 639 775 218 www.craneosacral-panizo.com/en/ www.terapias-adam.com/en/
Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reflexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com
Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com
READER OFFER
Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST & COACH
Symmetry Pilates - PILATES
Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information
Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Most of the day we are sitting down at our computers, or in our cars. But, have you ever asked yourself whether you are sitting properly? Most back pain starts from the way we sit and from sitting for too long. Learn to sit correctly and your quality of life will improve. Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this trendy new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.
Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat
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READER OFFER
República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com
Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com
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Oliver Dawson CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.
Georgina Weinstein VOICE COACH Georgina offers “Tone of Voice Coaching” to speakers, teachers, executives, singers, coaches, and anyone who wants to improve their abilities to communicate clearly.This includes techniques to achieve more volume, pitch, stage presence and confidence while practicing texts, songs and/or subjects that interest the student. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their confidence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English.
Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com
FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK
M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com
Tàctum - HAIR SALON
The Vital Touch - MASSAGE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
Located in Gràcia, this friendly and welcoming salon has everything you need to feel special. They work together with clients to create a look that reflects their individual style and personality. They are experts in curly hair, hair colouring and above all the use of progressive vegetable hair dye, which harnesses the purity of water. They can also advise you on the cut that best suits you.
10% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
Torrent de L’Olla 85 (Metro Joanic) T. 93 217 9316 tactum@tacum.cat Tues-Thurs 10.30am-8.30pm Fri-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm www.tactum.es
Heaven - MASSAGE Ready to feel fantastic for spring? Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!
FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS
M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com
Lovecycle - FITNESS LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating fitness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!
FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING HEALTH & BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Doctors - Dentists - Psychologists Chiropractors - Therapists Yoga - Pilates Reflexology - Massage Fitness - Hair salons
Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com
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BUSINESS SERVICES
Aquit Legal - LAW FIRM Aquit Legal is an international law firm with experience in different jurisdictions. They offer legal advice to individuals and, national and international entities. Legal advice is focused on civil law, commercial law, procedural law, international law, and real estate. They are a multilingual team, and can therefore provide advice in your own language, including English, French, Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish.
DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com Diagonal 622. 2º1ªA, 08021 T. 93 240 5659 info@aquitlegal.com www.aquitlegal.com/en
See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
AFT IURE LEGA L ABOGADOS LAWYERS RECHTSANWÄLTE
AFT IURE LEGAL -
Spain Accounting-
LAWYERS
TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES
Albert Forment offers legal services to the Barcelona community in English, German and French. He specialises in civil, criminal and tax law, but extends his practice to other areas, such as family, administrative, employment, and real estate. Drawing from a wealth of experience, Forment ensures reliability and clarity for clients, and holds sincerity and honesty at the core of his services. Contact him today for a free introductory in-house consultation.
Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service
M. 616 614 764 T. 93 321 11 55 btforment@gmail.com www.aftiure.com/
Contact David Cook on M. 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com
READER OFFER Klev & Vera - LAW FIRM
Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE
This firm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. It understands that starting a business in a foreign country can be daunting, especially in Spain, where the system is complicated and taxes can be a hindrance. This is where their experience in advising international clients how to set up businesses in Spain can help you make smarter decisions, saving you thousands of euros in the long term.
The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
They have a multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: Real Estate, Business Set Up, Spanish Residency, Family Law, Litigation, Tax Planning. Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com
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Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
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NIE Barcelona
Corsa International -
- BUSINESS
DRIVING SCHOOL
NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license.
Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!
Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com
international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/
Master Cerrajeros
PWN Barcelona - NON PROFIT PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer Mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certified virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.
Locked out? Master Cerrajeros are English-speaking specialists who provide emergency lock replacement services at competitive rates, 24/7. They work with locks for metal shutters, automatic systems, safety doors, security systems, fences and balconies, access control and more.
www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/
M. 607 886 622 www.mastercerrajeros.com
Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS
Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT
They can help…
• Barcelona’s premier network for international women. • Approx. 200 members from 20+ countries. • As a social club that supports local organisation, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and networking & promotional opportunities. We help women thrive in Barcelona.
Create your perfect living or work space. Get the most out of your investment. Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment. Deal with paperwork and permits. Manage the building works and costs. Choose the best firm for the job. Coordinate with the neighbours. Get in touch for more information.
Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com
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-
LOCKSMITH
Supported charities 2016 - 2018 membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com
president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com
Handyman - HOME SERVICES
Geo Mac - COMPUTERS
Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.
George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
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BCN Seguros - INSURANCE This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, English and German.
M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es
Gabor Arato REMOVAL SERVICES Gabor can help with any removal work no matter the size, providing transportation and removal services for anyone located within Barcelona or just outside. He offers competitive prices of only €15 per hour. Contact now for more information and special offers.
Yacht Point Barcelona - SAILING SCHOOL Yacht Point RYA Training Centre is a leading provider of online navigation theory courses & sailing tuition in Barcelona. They offer: - Online navigation theory courses & Sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. Their courses are suitable for complete beginners to advanced sailors. ‘We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!’
M. 633 596 188 gabsmudanzas@gmail.com
T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com http://yachtpointbcn.com/en/rya-training-centre/
GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO
#mrsqdesignstudio Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES
Mrs.Q Design Studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN
Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs.
Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q designs bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Their designs are inspired by watercolour paintings merged with contemporary design. If you would like a custom painting, designed especially for you, they can create a design that you’re sure to love. Visit their Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.
Coccinelle is a reference in the domestic staff sector, that’s why more than 700 families have trusted in their services. You can arrange everything from the comfort of your own home. Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation
Pau Claris 151 M. 93 010 9758 Info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com
77-80 Business SEP 2017.indd 45
mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio
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Oak House - SCHOOL
BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL
Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.
BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.
Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com
Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com
BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com
Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more.
FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING BUSINESSES IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Lawyers - Accountants - Language schools Business schools - Computer technicians Real estate - Insurance - Electricians Plumbers - Graphic design Driving schools - Sailing schools Babysitting services - Translators International schools - Printing services
ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com
Connecta Languages - TRANSLATORS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualified linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact them today and say goodbye to language barriers. M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages.com
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DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our fREE ClassIfIEDs
www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com
COACHING COLUMN
SAM SAYS... PUT YOUR SYSTEMS IN PLACE Dear Sam, I’ve been living in Barcelona for 10 years. I love it, but I need a change. The problem is that I’ve always been terrible with changes. It took me ages to muster up the courage to move to Barcelona, and once I got here it took time to adjust. I felt nervous, out of my comfort zone and found it difficult to make friends. Looking back, however, it was the best thing I’ve ever done. Now I’m ready to move again and I know that the initial transition phase will be hard for me. Do you have any advice on how to make it easier? How can I create a seamless transition moving from one place to the next? Thanks so much. Transit Freeze
Hi Transit Freeze, Change is hard. It is one of life’s biggest challenges for most people. Even those of us who love change can find it difficult, so I applaud you for recognising that it’s not easy and for not letting it hold you back. When it comes to transitioning through a change, there’s no ‘one size fits all’ formula. I love change, yet at the same time I can find it hard if I don’t have my systems in place. For me, this involves a lot of preparation so that I can hit the ground running wherever I go. Before we delve into tangible action points, try and answer this question: What would make things easier for you? Thinking back on your previous transitions, can you pinpoint a time when things ran more smoothly and you found it less challenging? If so, what was different? Try to identify what made it easier and then implement a similar approach for your upcoming move. In addition to recognising what’s previously helped, here are a few practical tools that might also ease the process: 1. Make a plan for day one One of the most challenging aspects of moving is feeling out of your depth. This can be anything from not knowing where the closest supermarket is, to not feeling like you fit in with the people, the culture or the pace of life. A way to combat this is to dive right in the second you arrive, as it helps to lessen the fear of the unknown. If you know someone who lives where you’re going, schedule a coffee for the day after you arrive. If you hear about an interesting event, make sure you go along. The sooner you immerse yourself, the easier it’ll be to gain knowledge and start making this new environment more familiar. 2. Know your systems and implement them Knowing what systems work for you is key, and making sure you implement them is even more important. For example: Do you like to come home to a clean house after being away for a while? Is it important for you to have plans lined up with friends or new people immediately after arriving in a new place? Does it ease your mind to know where the closest supermarket or hospital is? Take time to prepare. Finding what works for you will help you achieve peace of mind and make the move as seamless as possible. 3. Don’t forget your ‘past life’ Moving doesn’t mean you have to completely shut the door. In fact, unless we’re specifically looking to wipe the slate clean, it can be extremely helpful to keep in contact with friends and family. Reach out to people, get in touch, schedule online video dates with people who know and understand you.
Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com
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TH A N NIVER SARY Patek Philippe - F.P. Journe - Ulysse Nardin - Girard Perregaux Zenith - Bremont - Nomos - Baume et Mercier - Bell & Ross TagHeuer - Cuervo y Sobrinos - Oris - Vulcain - Junghans - Ball Sevenfriday - Qlocktwo - Suuntoto
W E P R O U D LY A N N O U N C E T H E A R R I V A L O F O U R N E W B R A N D
DIAGONAL 626 • 08021 BARCELONA • (+34) 93 414 3711 W W W. T H E W A T C H G A L L E R Y. E S
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