Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 249 by Barcelona Metropolitan

OCTOBER 2017 Nยบ 249

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Earthly pleasures a taste of autumn

HORROR SHOW 50 years of the Sitges film festival

OLYMPIC GOLD Barcelona, 25 years on

NEVER FORGET Remembering the Spanish Civil War

PLUS! ART 01 cover 2.indd 1

MUSIC

SHOPPING

NEW IN TOWN

STREETLIFE

restaurant reviews

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 249 · OCTOBER 2017

ROYAL BLOOD P.34

20 REPORT: the OLYMPIC LEGACY On the silver anniversary of the ‘92 Games, Michael Leafe examines Barcelona’s golden Olympic legacy

25 SITGES FILM FESTIVAL The international horror fest celebrates 50 years

26 CIRCUS ACT Donnchadh Tiernan talks to Franco-Irish clown Kiva Murphy

44 NEVER FORGET

IN THE CITY

WORKING LIFE

06 08 11 12 15 16 19 46

53 Startup of the month 54 Writing your CV 56 A day in the life

New in town Streetlife Five things A place of my own History Best of Shopping Photo essay

TRAVEL 58 Castles of Catalunya 62 Turó del Tagamanent

FOOD & DRINK 64 Restaurant review 66 Quick bites 68 Recipe

WHAT’S ON

Plans are afoot for a space to commemorate the Spanish Civil War

32 36 40 42

48 BACK TO EARTH Our guide to seasonal foods that warm the soul

Music Art Misc Calendar

M E T R O P O L I T A N c ontri b u tor s Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Founder Esther Jones Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Carol Moran Contributing Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Sales Director Jalil Alui Client Care Manager Aminah Barnes Sales Mauricio Valadares Ortiz, Alvi Zolizzi Digital Analyst Richard Cardwell Office Manager Marina Piegari Editorial Assistants Garry Gallon, Charlotte Hanwell, Abelia Leskin, Natalia QuirosEdmunds, Charlotte Stace Design Assistant Valeria Kalinova Contributors Misty Barker, Paul Cannon, Eimear Corrigan, Catherine Howley, Michael Leafe, Sam Mednick, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Donnchadh Tiernan, Sam Zucker Illustrator Ben Rowdon Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

Valeria KALINOVA Originally from Sofia, Bulgaria, Valeria is an art and technology student at Saxion University of Applied Sciences in The Netherlands. As part of her degree, she is spending a year abroad, splitting her time between Barcelona and Ireland. After doing a summer internship in Tenerife, she fell in love with the Spanish language and culture. She loves big cities, new cultures and drawing. She is currently learning Spanish and pursuing a creative career as a design assistant at Metropolitan.

MICHAEL leafe By day, Michael works in communications for an international business school. The rest of the time, he writes about his main interests: travel, music and culture. Originally from Loughborough in the UK, Michael studied law at the University of Manchester. Following extensive travels in Latin America, he decided to relocate to Barcelona, harbouring naive dreams of improving his Spanish. When not found behind a keyboard, you’re likely to catch him running or cycling the city’s streets.

CHARLOTTE stace Originally from the Midlands in the UK, Charlotte completed her Bachelor’s degree in sociology before studying for a Master’s in contemporary history and politics at the University of Nottingham. Since then, she has been living, working and travelling across Europe. She spent one year teaching English in Rome, before moving to Barcelona three years ago. Here, she teaches English and works as an editorial assistant at Metropolitan, which allows her to explore the city and discover its hidden treasures.

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IN THE CITY

new in town

Russian Dolls Sakurami. Josep Bertrand 15.  facebook.com/sakuramibarcelona If you’re in need of some TLC after the long summer, take note of newly-opened Sakurami. Established 15 years ago in Russia, the brand has since opened dozens of beauty salons across the globe, offering a plethora of top-to-toe beauty treatments, from specialised manicures and pedicures to hairdressing and massage. Inspired by the delicate sakura (cherry blossom) from which it takes its name, this is a place for indulging the body and soul. The brand’s dedication to creating a relaxed and peaceful atmosphere is apparent in the attention to detail throughout. The in-house bar, serves a selection of refreshments and, best of all for any parent with kids in tow, there’s a lounge space for youngsters, where they can watch cartoons and play with toys while you kick back and relax.

CERTIFIED DELICIOUS Vega Raw Organic. Pintor Fortuny 24  vegaraworganic.com Part-market and part-eatery, this organic vegan shop is committed to the environment and works exclusively with certified Km0, local suppliers. Its self-service, pay-by-weight buffet of hot and cold dishes, salads and desserts is a cheap and healthy lunch option, with the choice to either take a seat at the communal table or take-away. Owner Ramon Carner explained how they creatively prepare vegan, organic and mainly gluten-free dishes to encourage people to see how healthy food can also be delicious. Organic fruits and vegetables, vegan meats and cheeses, as well as teas, oils, beers and wines, can be found in the market section of the store. Vega Raw Organic is all about people, and community building is a big part of their ethos. Find out about their workshops, meetings and presentations that showcase and discuss healthy living options.

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THE GREAT ESCAPE G.Point. Carrer de la Pau 12. ď&#x192;&#x153; gpoint.es Divided across 18 rooms, Game Point Center is the largest escape room centre in Europe. Creativity and logic are key to this activity, the latest trend in entertainment, which involves a small team of between two and four people solving puzzles in under 60 minutes in order to escape from a locked room. Each room has been designed around a specific theme, including a time machine, bank robbery, submarine and an abandoned laboratory, allowing players to feel fully immersed in another world. Available in Catalan, Spanish, English, French and Russian, the Director of Operations, Anastasia Umovskaya, said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We want to be accessible to anyone and everyone. The centre is open to kids, families, groups of friends and colleagues looking for team-building exercises.â&#x20AC;? Full of hidden clues and mystery, these rooms offer a thrilling escape from your typical weekend plans.

Spanish courses for adults in Poblenou DELE preparation Small groups

General courses Intensive courses

Specialized courses (Art, History Cinema...)

One-to-One lessons Business Spanish

Llull 187, 08005 T. (+34) 668 80 46 89

info@olympialanguages.com www.olympialanguages.com

WISE CHILD Sabio Infante. Torrent de lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Olla 39-41. ď&#x192;&#x153; Facebook.com/Sabio-infante Sabio Infante (meaning â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wise childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) in GrĂ cia welcomes you in eclectic style, with Seventies travel magazines lining the walls, china-cup flowerpots, and a non-functioning coin-operated kids ride by the entrance. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The idea behind the name (and concept) is the idea of being an adult but having the wisdom of a child. Every day should be a new discovery,â&#x20AC;? explained designer Eliza PĂŠrez. This is reflected in the cafeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motto â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;pequeĂąo escapismoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;small escapeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;), as well as the funhouse vibe and retro music. The cafe has two menus: brunch classics, such as poppy seed pancakes and brioche bread eggs Benedict, appear on the day menu, with the star dish being the cocoa and banana smoothie bowl, while the night menu features salmon gravlax, various tableboards, nachos and more. Still in its early days, Venezuelan owner, AndrĂŠs Barro, has high hopes for making the space into more than just a cafe; childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art and yoga workshops, a plant nursery, and an outdoor cinema projection series on the spacious backyard terrace are just some of his ideas.

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IN THE CITY

streetlife

No 7

Carrer de calvet

A hive of activity in the Galvany neighbourhood, this broad street is dotted with quirky cafes, luxury boutiques and chic salons

The Eyelash Atelier

The eyes are the windows to the soul, and this place knows how to take care of them. The Eyelash Atelier is best known for its eyelash extensions, which come in various lengths and colours (don’t miss the glitter extensions), but they also have a range of other beauty treatments, including eyebrow shaping, microblading, facials and makeovers. Hollywood mirrors hang from the walls in this ultra stylish space, where guests sink into black leather armchairs and let the staff work their magic. theeyelashatelier.com

No 1

La Fermata

Fermata means ‘stop’ in Italian, and owner Rafael Soldevila wants to create lots of ‘stops’ around the city where customers can take-away or sit down with a freshly made pizza. With exposed brick walls and hanging filament light bulbs, inspiration lies firmly with the classic New York pizza joint. La Fermata offers more than 15 classic pizza toppings, while the dough is made with organic flour and fermented for 48 hours, resulting in a light crunchy base and fluffy centre. For something a bit different, try the speciality nutella pizza, typically ordered for an on-the-go breakfast or sweet treat after work. lafermata.es

No 39

Bea Bea

With previous experience in the textile industry, Carmen Ricoma created her own label in 1992. Now, with the help of her children, Pablo and Bea, she has opened three stores across town, each with smart, sophisticated decor. Catering to women of all ages, Bea Bea offers high quality products, from jumpers, dresses and outdoor coats to bags, shoes and handkerchiefs. beabea.es

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No 50

Carlitos

Family is at the heart of this quirky tapas bar, run by brothers Javi and Carlos Triviño, who reveal that their “happiest childhood memories were enjoying rich food and long tabletop chats with loved ones”. Their passion for gastronomy and good company is evident in the menu and ambience. Carlitos serves a classic selection of dishes that are perfect for sharing, such as their version of patatas bravas, jamón ibérico, huevos estrellados and grilled vegetables with romesco sauce. With cushioned seats, round tables and warm lighting, they have created a cosy atmosphere for enjoying traditional tapas made with a good dose of love. restaurantecarlitos.com

Turó Parc

Pinhan Café

Just one street over from Calvet, Turó Park offers a shady retreat from the built up surroundings of Sant Gervasi. Inside the park is a hidden treasure: Pinhan Café. Brought to the city by Turkishborn Seyma Özkaya Erpul, this kiosk-style outdoor cafe provides a peaceful sanctuary amidst the greenery. The menu includes Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired dishes, such as sharing platters with Turkish olives, grilled sucuk and Raki flame pastrami, as well as hamburgers, sandwiches and a selection of breakfast dishes. A particular favourite is the Turkish breakfast, which comes with clotted cream and honey, marinated olives, homemade jams, and lime and vanilla butter. pinhan.es

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FIVE THINGS

After-school

activities Cut down on screen time and get your little ones out there learning new skills and socialising

1. Cooking

Knowing how to cook is not only an essential life skill, but it can also be a lifelong source of enjoyment. Cookiteca (cookiteca.com) offers a 10-week course for children aged six to 12, during which they will learn how to create a different, healthy dish each week. Participants learn how to follow recipes and use basic kitchen utensils, furthering their knowledge about food, and developing their creativity and ability to work in a team. All the dishes are easy to recreate at home, so you might even get a night off while your little one dons the chef’s hat.

2. Creative arts

There’s nothing quite as wild as a child’s imagination, which is why it’s important to let them be creative. Bricks 4 Kidz (bricks4kidz.es) uses simple Lego bricks to teach kids about architecture, engineering and technology. Along with stimulating the imagination, this helps develop fine motor skills, problem-solving abilities and teamwork. Bricks 4 Kidz runs one-off workshops as well as six-week blocks of afterschool sessions. Collage (collagebarcelona.com), in Gràcia, uses arts, crafts and drama to facilitate English learning. Different classes cater for various age groups and language levels, including bilinguals, encouraging children to express themselves naturally in English.

4. Dance

Dance is an integral part of Spanish and Catalan culture, whether it be traditional dances or more contemporary urban dance, people throughout the country value rhythm and movement. Dance Emotion (dancemotion.es) gives classes for kids aged three and up in different styles of dance, from ballet and hip hop to jazz and musical theatre.

5. Skateboarding

Barcelona is home to an influential skateboarding community. In fact, the area around the MACBA is considered one of Europe’s most iconic skateboarding hangouts. Learning to skateboard is ideal for active kids who aren’t interested in more traditional sports. Skate schools Al Carrer (alcarrerskate.com), the first skate school in Barcelona to take place in the streets, and Doctown (doctown.es) both offer courses specifically designed for children, allowing them to get started at an early age in a safe, fun environment.

3. Computer skills

Most children love to play on their computers and tablets, so why not turn that hobby into a useful skill? With the tech industry one of the fastest growing fields across the world, programming is a valuable skill for children to learn in the digital age. The Barcelona Code School (barcelonacodeschool.com) offers after-school classes for nine to 14-year-olds, introducing them to modern programming fundamentals, with an emphasis on web and game development, app building and robotics. Kids Hack Club (kidshackclub.com) covers similar subjects in its classes, with an additional focus on developing interactive storytelling skills.

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IN THE CITY

a place of my own

Graphic designers Diana and Mike add a splash of colour to their Gràcia apartment with A unique sense of style

alifornia-born graphic designers Diana Aspillera and Mike Romano moved to Barcelona for the second time in 2012, in order to live where their business is based. “We had a choice between Berlin and Barcelona, but being from California we were scared of the weather so went with the sunnier option,” laughed Diana. Arriving in Barcelona, Diana and Mike went in search of what would be the third property they’ve owned together. They had a list of requirements in mind when searching for their new home. “Our main goals were to find somewhere around the Gràcia area, as our kids were in school there, and for the place to have a terrace for our cats,” explained Diana. They were also looking for somewhere that was slightly off the radar in order to stay within budget. When they saw this entresuelo property listed and noticed that it had been on the market for over a year, they thought they should check it out. Walking in for the first time, they found the apartment decorated

in traditional mid-20th century Spanish style, with orange tiled floors and frilly cloth radiator covers—or ‘radiator lingerie’ as Mike calls it. They spotted potential, however, for an open-plan layout, and it ticked many of the boxes. After buying the apartment, they enlisted the expertise of interior designer Graham Collins to make their vision a reality. “We opened up the kitchen and made other architectural changes, but we also replaced the floor tiles and added in elements of our own design,” said Diana. The main focus of the design is on the living areas, which stretch the length of the apartment, almost uninterrupted; from an officestudy to the spacious kitchen, continuing on to the living room which opens up to a mini terrace. Diana and Mike have personalised their home to match their quirky, eclectic taste. The decor is modern, without being futuristic, and Diana described the inspiration as being a utilitarian Danish aesthetic with more colour. “We wanted to use mostly light colours because the apartment doesn’t get that much

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natural light. But because we’re both graphic designers, we love adding splashes of colour.” In the kitchen, a lime green countertop brightens up the room, along with little features like a red teapot set lined up on the exposed shelving. A set of white cupboards, with slightly indented geometric shapes, takes up the other wall of the room, cleverly hiding all the kitchen appliances behind it. The living room (Diana’s favourite part of the apartment) contains some eye-catching features, including one wall covered with a collection of unusual art pieces. “Some of the art we made ourselves, some we found on the street, and some was made by our artist friends,” said Diana. A large wooden cabinet they also found on the side of the road—now repurposed as part-drinks cabinet, part-knick knack holder—adds character to the room, with each object telling its own little story. Similarly, other walls in the house are used as a blank canvas, with bikes, skateboards and other interesting objects hanging from them, inventively using the resources they have to create their own style. Mike admitted that they’ve had difficulty deciding what should go where in the apartment. Creating a home for themselves, their two sons, Fausto and Xavi, their dog and two cats meant thinking tactically about where everything should be placed. “We might still change the living room into a dining room, as we realised it has the sun coming in from the terrace,” said Diana. When they first moved into the apartment, Diana found that the apartment had a strange vibe: “When you first move in somewhere you should be totally happy and excited, but I had a bit of an off feeling about it.” It was only after they had been living there for three years and had started to fill it with their own memories that they really felt at home. “We had to try and see the potential, but that’s our favourite thing to do. We always buy what no one else wants and try to do something special with it.” If you’ve made yourself an interesting home from home, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

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HISTORY

The Writing on the Wall Location: Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu

Graffiti is nothing new in Barcelona By Catherine Howley

any walls around the city have a voice. From spray paint and stickers, to posters and flags, various mediums have been used to communicate messages to passers-by. However, it’s possible that you may have strolled past one of the oldest examples of these ‘talking’ walls without noticing. Located on Carrer del Carme, at the entrance of the old hospital of Santa Creu (now home to the National Library of Catalunya), a peculiar array of inscriptions have been identified as some of the oldest examples of graffiti in Barcelona. On the lateral wall of the former Royal Academy of Medicine and Surgery, around the doorway that leads into the grounds of the 15th-century hospital, a selection of words, symbols and markings are carefully carved into the stone blocks. The messages are not hidden, but they are easy to see either, and even less so to decipher. The inscriptions include the letter G, an upright snake, the number 4, an inverted triangle composed of seven dots and another composed of 10, the numbers 2 and 3, and capital letters P, M and N. The word ‘poma’ (Catalan for apple) and ‘beu’ (the imperative for ‘drink’ in Catalan) are inscribed together with a drawing of a fountain and an inscription that reads ‘Fueresse luego Olivero’. Another inscription refers to the year 1539, together with an

unidentified surname, beside which a woman is conveyed hanging upside down and accompanied by the phrase ‘Fuego que se apaga’. Local historian Elsa Plaza has worked hard on deciphering this odd collection of words and symbols. Plaza concludes that different people carved the messages at different times, and judging by the script used, they are dated to sometime between the 16th and 17th centuries. The name ‘Oliveros’ refers to the Count Duke of Oliveras, who fought against the Catalans during the Guerra dels Segadors (Catalan Revolt 1640-1659)—an unpopular figure due to his subsequent role in repressing the local population. ‘Fueresse luego Olivero’ can be interpreted as a political message against the despised count. ‘Fuego que se apaga’ (‘fire that goes out’) is thought to refer to the fire that engulfed the hospital in 1638. The hanging figure is said to refer to a local girl who was accused of destroying a bread oven in premises once located on Carrer del Carme. Regarding the letters and numbers, their significance has been attributed to the surgical students who may have entertained themselves by making inscriptions on the walls while waiting for class to commence. For example, the G and the upright snake refer to the god of medicine, Asclepius.

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BEST OF

New on the block Twenty-first-century architecture in Barcelona

Santa Caterina Market Miralles Tagliabue EMBT

Edifici Fòrum Herzog and de Meuron In 2004, Barcelona hosted the Universal Forum of Cultures, a 141-day international event that included dozens of conventions, performing arts, markets and exhibitions. As well as a huge promotional event for the city, it brought about a large-scale urban regeneration of the seafront area at the end of Avinguda Diagonal: 30 hectares of no man’s land between Port Olímpic and Sant Adrià de Besòs. At the heart of the project was the Klein blue triangular-shaped convention centre by prolific Swiss architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron. Built on a huge platform over the city’s ring road, the Ronda Litoral, Herzog and de Meuron’s statement building appears to float above the ground and includes a 3,200seat auditorium, vast exhibition areas, foyer spaces and a restaurant. A series of courtyards cut through the elevated volume, and light flows between different levels of the building and outdoor space, blurring the boundary between exterior and interior. The ultramarine skin that wraps around this equilateral triangle—each side 180m long—is interspersed with jagged lines of mirrored glass, which on clear days create a two-tone blue effect with slits of sky sitting between the rough render facade. Today, it’s known as the Centre de Convencions Internacional de Barcelona (CCIB) and houses the Museu de les Ciències Naturals de Barcelona.

Although Gaudí may be the city’s most famous architect, Enric Miralles is undoubtedly one of its modern-day masters. After early collaborations with his first wife, Carme Pinós, Miralles founded EMBT in 1994, alongside his second wife, Benedetta Tagliabue. Their unique architectural language can be spotted across Barcelona, although the Santa Caterina market is probably their most prominent work in the city. Originally the site of a 13th-century convent, the neoclassical market was built in the mid-19th century after the convent burnt down, and was renovated by EMBT between 1997 and 2005. The project breathed new life into a then-forgotten corner of the Ciutat Vella and was part of a multi-use redevelopment. The market’s theatrical roof is the single most important element: an undulating, dynamic magic carpet of colour, draped over a world of smells and tastes within. Inside, natural light filters through slits in the timber and steel structure, and its organic form makes for an inspiring backdrop to the weekly shop. The roof’s glazed ceramic surface—designed by Toni Comella and made up of 325,000 hexagonal tiles in 67 colours—is a modern take on Gaudí’s trademark trencadís tiling and takes its palette from the myriad hues of the fruit and vegetable market stalls. Sadly, Miralles never got to see it. He died in 2000, aged 45, five years before the market’s completion.

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Torre Agbar Jean Nouvel French starchitect Jean Nouvel has made his presence felt in the city over recent years with a host of high-profile projects, the most notable being the Torre Agbar. Designed in collaboration with local practice b720, the 38-storey phallic-shaped building stands prominently on Barcelona’s skyline. Nouvel described it as a giant geyser rising from the earth, inspired by the towers of Gaudí’s Sagrada Família and the bizarre rock formations of Montserrat. A chameleon-like skin of profiled aluminium sheeting and glass louvres wraps around the reinforced concrete structure, glittering red, orange and blue in the Mediterranean sunshine—although nighttime is when it really comes to life, lit by 4,500 LEDs. At 144m, the tower is the third tallest building in the city and was quickly embraced by its citizens. The tower’s inhabitants, however, have not been so impressed. In early 2017, the building was sold for the second time in three years, with tenants complaining about various impracticalities: dirty windows, an awkward layout and inoperable sun blinds. Originally built as the headquarters of water company Grupo Agbar, it has now been acquired by Merlin Properties, who changed the official name to Torre Glòries.

Joan Oliver Library RCR Arquitectes Barcelona knows how to do the grand gesture, but great design also trickles down to the ordinary, public buildings of the city. This local library in Sant Antoni is one such example. Designed by this year’s Pritzker Prize winners, Olot-based RCR Arquitectes, the sleek, black metal building stands in elegant contrast to the 19th-century brick and render streetscape of Carrer del Comte Borrell. The building contains a library and day centre for the elderly, although the principal driving force behind the project was the reuse of the block’s internal courtyard, just as Ildefons Cerdà, who designed the Eixample, originally intended. The five-storey library acts as a gateway building that unifies the courtyard and the street—a double height opening allows the seamless continuation of public space—and the single-storey day centre lines the edges of the playpark and patio area within. Glazed facades are veiled in black steel louvres, while polished concrete floors, unexpected views and circulation bridges lend an uplifting energy to the neighbourhood library. The essence of this socially dynamic urban project, however, lies not in aesthetics but in its ability to bring people of all ages together.

DHUB mbm Arquitectes Housed in an anvil-shaped building, this massive cultural facility presides proudly over events at the evolving heart of Glòries, next to the Torre Glòries and the 22@Barcelona district. Hub by name and by nature, the zinc-clad, concrete and glass construction was built between 2008 and 2013, and acts as a focal point for an increasing population of cultural assets and innovative industries that surround it. Over seven storeys, the Disseny Hub accommodates the Museu del Disseny de Barcelona, which offers a new home to permanent collections from four museums across the city, as well as large temporary exhibition spaces, a library, cafe, 320-seater auditorium, and the headquarters of design institutions BCD (Barcelona Centre de Disseny) and FAD (Foment de les Arts i del Disseny). In a nutshell, it brings all things design together under one roof. Designed by local architects MBM, the building is divided into two sections. The bottom section runs the length of the site, to create large semi-basement spaces with a grass roof. The upper section is the visible, top-heavy structure, which cantilevers over Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes. And just as any self-respecting 21st-century building should be, it’s green, with various sustainable technologies employed.

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SHOPPING

IN THE KITCHEN

TEAPOT €24.90 EL CORTE INGLÉS Pl. de Catalunya 23 elcorteingles.es

CEILING LAMP €38 KAVE HOME kavehome.com

WEIGHING SCALES €19.95 GADGETS DE CUINA Aragó 249 gadgetscuina.com

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR HOME WITH THESE CREATIVE CULINARY ADDITIONS CHAIR €89.99 MAISONS DU MONDE Avda. Diagonal 405 maisonsdumonde.com

CASSEROLE DISH €26 LE CREUSET Rambla de Catalunya 102 lecreuset.es

PRINTABLE POSTER €6.05 Red Hill Printables etsy.com/shop/RedHillPrintables

MUG €14 PYLONES Cucurulla 4 pylones.com

SALT POT €2.95 NARRA Valldonzella 49 narra.es

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report

Olympic GOLD The legacy of the '92 Olympic Games, 25 Years On

By Michael Leafe

arcelona is widely considered to have hosted one of the best planned and most successful Olympics of all time. Between July 25th and August 9th, 1992, a Mediterranean metropolis that had suffered decades of neglect under Franco’s rule, was suddenly catapulted into the world's consciousness. Twentyfive years on, the Olympic legacy still has an impact on Barcelona’s economy, its urban environment and, above all, its people.

Pre-Olympic Barcelona When Franco died in 1975, the beleaguered region of Catalunya breathed a collective sigh of relief. Power was gradually handed back to parts of Spain that had been repressed since the end of the civil war, and in Barcelona, a city that had been deliberately starved of investment by the Fascist regime, plans were put into place to reinvigorate and modernise the city. Decades of uncontrolled migration and chaotic urban planning had resulted in immense overcrowding and the emergence of shantytowns (known as barracas) along Barcelona’s seafront, around Montjuïc and on undeveloped wasteland. Abandoned industrial units littered Poblenou, and an obtrusive combination of railways and busy roads divided the city from a coastline that had become little more than a refuse dump. This was a post-industrial urban environment that was crying out for a bit of TLC. So, when local democracy was reinstated, there was a real desire to provide Barcelona’s people with new leisure spaces, public services and improved infrastructure. Set up to carry out research and improve knowledge of ‘Olympism and sport’ in the run up to the Games, the Centre d’Estudis Olímpics at the Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona (CEO-UAB) explained that this

modernisation process had already started in 1979. Barcelona’s Olympic nomination, however, brought about a radical change in the scale of the whole project.

An impetus for change With that historic announcement on October 17th, 1986, one of the most ambitious urban regeneration projects in modern history was put into action. In an article for Transfer Magazine in 2010, Josep Maria Montaner, respected Catalan architect and author, highlighted how the Olympic nomination “provided the opportunity and the impulse Barcelona needed to modernise and to make up for lost time and become a modern and well-equipped city”. The Olympic Committee was determined to up the scale of the projects that had been in the pipeline since the late Seventies. Until the nomination, Barcelona’s urban planners had spoken of redeveloping squares, streets and gardens; afterwards, they set their sights higher and began to dream of harbours, ring roads and an Olympic village. They knew they had the chance to change the face of the city forever. The funding required for these impressive urban plans could not come exclusively from the public purse. Pasqual Maragall, esteemed mayor of Barcelona from 1982 to 1997, sought to form a new alliance between the city’s traditionally socialist-leaning administration and the private sector. Without the combination of public funding and private investment that he secured, the Olympic project would barely have gotten off the ground. Thus, as the cranes went up from Vall d'Hebron to Poblenou, a tangible sense of excitement crept into the people of Barcelona. This was cemented when, at the city’s 1988 La Nit festival, Freddie Mercury gave a spine-tingling rendition of the epic

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‘Barcelona’ alongside city native Montserrat Caballé. This was Freddie Mercury’s last ever live performance, and the song would go on to provide the most emotive Olympic soundtrack in history.

The world at your door From the opening ceremony onwards, Barcelona ’92 was filled with iconic displays of unity. As the Olympic flag was hoisted in the stadium, Spanish tenor Alfredo Kraus sung the official ‘Olympic Hymn’ in both Spanish and Catalan, capturing the hearts of the local audience. These were the first games in which a post-apartheid South Africa, a unified Germany and a post-Soviet Russia were able to compete. Barcelona welcomed athletes from 169 different countries—10 more than Seoul in 1988. Some of the Games’ most memorable moments included Spanish Paralympian Antonio Rebollo igniting the Olympic flame with a burning arrow; the USA men's basketball team romping to gold with an NBA ‘dream team’, featuring Michael Jordan and Magic Johnson; Fermín Cacho securing Spain’s first-ever gold medal for a running event in the 1,500 metres; and the men’s Spanish football team winning gold in a sold-out Camp Nou. The whole city played a part in the action, with four distinct areas hosting the venues and events: Diagonal, which included Camp Nou; Montjuïc, where the Olympic Stadium was located; Vall d'Hebron; and Parc de Mar, centred around the modern-day Port Olímpic. Further events took place elsewhere in the region, with road cycling, handball, boxing and football hosted in venues that spread all the way from Valencia to Vic. And it wasn’t just Barcelona that was gripped by Olympic fever. With state-of-the-art facilities, flawless organisation and a completely re-energised city before them, the world could see that Barcelona was open for business.

An Olympic legacy On the silver anniversary of the Games, the Olympic legacy is lauded not only for the changes made to Barcelona’s urban environment and its economy, but also for its impact on sport in the region. Spain’s unexpected success at the Games (they won an unprecedented 13 gold medals) inspired a new generation to participate in grassroots sports. New clubs and facilities sprung up all over the city and people were getting involved in greater numbers than ever before. A variety of superb facilities were built for the Olympics, many of which have since attracted elite international sports competitions to Barcelona, such as the 2010 European Athletics Championships. Some venues, the Velodrom d’Horta and the Piscina Municipal de Montjuïc, for example, have been open to the public ever since. This combination of inspiration and investment spurred the city on to produce some of Spain’s most renowned sporting heroes in the years since the Games. Badalona-born Mireia Belmonte cemented her position as Spain’s greatest swimmer with her gold medal in the 200-metre butterfly at the Rio Olympics; Pau and Marc Gasol have inspired a generation

of budding basketballers with their success in the NBA; and from 2008-12 a team that included many Barcelona natives took the footballing world by storm, winning 14 trophies in four seasons under the stewardship of a ’92 Olympic hero, Pep Guardiola. It’s not only elite level sport that has experienced an upturn since 1992. Research carried out at CEO-UAB suggests that the Barcelona Olympics helped to bring about a fitness boom in Catalunya and across Spain. Today, the beachfront is packed with people running, cycling, rollerblading and playing volleyball—enjoying leisure spaces that simply didn’t exist until the Olympics came to town.

The changing face of the city Prior to its Olympic nomination, Barcelona had always been known as ‘the city with its back to the sea’. A tightly packed neighbourhood of shanties hugged the coast all the way from Barceloneta to what we know today as the Fòrum. Thirty-nine-year-old Barcelona native Marta has no problem recalling what this part of the city used to be like. “There was never any kind of beach,” she recalled, with the look of someone still amazed to this day. “It was all just shacks!” Yet it was this stretch of coast that was cherry-picked as the location for one of the most ambitious developments the city had ever seen.

The long-term sporting, urban, economic and cultural impact of the event has served as inspiration for every Olympic Games since The Olympic Committee laid out plans to construct a new ring road and move the existing railway tracks underground. This revolutionised Barcelona’s transport system. It diverted traffic away from the area and allowed space for the creation of a new, 30-metre-wide pedestrian seafront promenade. The beaches were completely reshaped using sand imported from Egypt, while the old industrial sites were demolished to make way for the new Olympic Village and Olympic Harbour. “After the Olympics, when we got our city back, going to Vila Olímpica was the thing to do,” said Marta. “We wanted to go and see what was there!” Frank Gehry's imposing ‘El Peix’ sculpture arrived in time for the Games and today it presides over a part of the city that has grown into a veritable tourist hotspot.

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camp nou

palau Blaugrana

football The world-famous home of FC Barcelona. With a capacity of 99,354, it's the largest stadium in Europe. The club museum welcomes 1.2 million visitors per year.

Judo, roller hockey, taekwondo Built in 1971, the 7,585 capacity venue is home to FC Barcelona’s basketball, handball, roller hockey and futsal teams.

palau sanT Jordi

gymnastics, volleyball, handball The largest indoor arena in Spain with a capacity of 24,000, it's used to host concerts, as well as international basketball and handball events.

piscina municipal de monTJuÏc

esTadi olÍmpic de monJuÏc diving, waterpolo The pools are open to the public during the summer, and the iconic backdrop has featured in TV advertisements and a Kylie Minogue music video.

olympic harBour

economic Turnaround The economic transformation brought about by the Olympic Games has probably had the biggest impact on Barcelona’s people. Even before its nomination, the city was experiencing a similar trend to that seen elsewhere in Europe. Heavy industry was in decline and the service sector was quickly taking over. In his piece for Transfer Magazine, Montaner argued that “the Olympic Games sped up the conversion of Barcelona into a huge service industry … one of the most important of which was obviously the tourist sector”. During the Games, Barcelona proved to the international community that it was capable of putting on the perfect Olympics. It had architecture, beaches, great weather and a proud history to boot. The organisers deliberately flaunted this. What nobody expected, however, was quite how successful this transformation would prove to be, and just how drastically it would affect the city. “I’m not sure if it’s good or bad, but it’s completely different,” said Victor, 35. “The city’s not really for the people of Barcelona now. It’s trendier, cooler, there’s more fashion. Now you don’t even recognise it.” Many would argue that he’s right. Twenty-five years after the Olympics, Barcelona is a globally renowned tourist destination. In 2016, the city welcomed more than 20 million visitors (including those on day trips), compared to 1.73 million visitors in 1990. The transformation of the city’s global image has been undeniably positive. However, the problems associated with mass tourism have been well publicised, and Barcelona’s local government has been forced to take measures to curb its negative effects. Victor acknowledges that a booming tourist industry has brought more jobs to the city, but he is keen to point out that soaring visitor numbers don’t always signify progress. “We were poorer,” he said, “but we were still happy before the Olympics.”

athletics, opening and closing ceremonies Now known as the Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys, the stadium was home to football club RCD Espanyol from 1997-2009, hosted the 2010 European Athletics Championships and is sometimes used as a live concert venue.

Barcelona ’92 set a benchmark for other host cities. The long-term sporting, urban, economic and cultural impact of the event has served as inspiration for every Olympic Games since. The term ‘Olympic legacy’ was used throughout the bidding process for both London 2012 and Rio 2016, though both cities have since struggled to emulate the success of the ‘Barcelona model’, at least in the short term, with many of Rio’s spectacular venues having sadly fallen into a state of disrepair in just a year. Barcelona was experiencing such a unique set of political, economic and cultural circumstances at the time of its Olympic nomination that CEO-UAB has suggested that it saw 50 years’ worth of development in six years of planning. No host city has since found itself at such a crossroads at the time of the Games. The Barcelona 1992 Olympic Games were one of a kind, and we may never see another legacy like it.

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mET pEOplE

What do you remember about the '92 Olympic Games?

VelÒdrom d'horTa

Track cycling The last permanent openair velodrome to be used for Olympic track cycling, today it's used for local competitions and training.

DONNA

circuiT de caTalunya

road cycling A famous F1 Grand Prix venue since 1991, it's also a popular test circuit. An annual MotoGP has also taken place on the circuit since 1992, as well as several other international motorsport events.

c ur sailing The harbour is now used by the public, forming part of the popular Port Olímpic area alongside numerous bars, restaurants, casinos and nightclubs.

THE OLYMPICS IN NUMBERS

Age: 68 From: US Profession: Interior designer The 1992 Olympics pushed Barcelona into the universal spotlight. The Games were a catalyst for opening the city to the sea, with the creation of two miles of beaches, huge improvements in infrastructure, and the building of sports facilities.

CATHERINE

Age: 50 From: England Profession: Director of Casa Home Search I was lucky enough to have tickets to see British cyclist Chris Boardman win Olympic gold. However, my lasting memories are of the Paralympic Games. The atmosphere was one of constant celebration and jubilation.

169 COUNTRIES 9,356 ATHLETES

257 EVENTS

9,849 TORCHBEARERS

34,548 VOLUNTEERS

UNIFIED TEAM • 12 former soviet republics TOTAL: 112

TOTAL: 108

29 BRONZE

45 GOLD

38 SILVER

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

GERMANY TOTAL: 82

37 BRONZE

28 BRONZE

37 GOLD

33 GOLD

34 SILVER

21 SILVER

SUZANNE

From: Australia Profession: Writer and tour guide In Barcelona in 1992, you felt like you were on the threshold of something really great. There was so much hope and optimism in the air. Everyone seemed to work in some sort of creative field, and everyone was euphoric about Barcelona finally being on the map. The Games themselves were totally integrated into city life. People in the street would give you free tickets and you would make your way to Montjuïc with the rest of the throng to see the events. It was a very different time; I can't imagine it happening like that again with today's security concerns.

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50 years

of Horror From unassuming beginnings, The Sitges Film Festival has grown to become a global hub for horror and fantasy film By Garry Gallon

t all started with an eye. A strange eye on a poster, haunting the streets of Barcelona. The year was 1970, and Spain was under General Francisco Franco’s control. Superstition and fantasy were firmly discouraged, and yet here was a poster announcing a ‘semana de terror’ (‘week of horror’) in the quiet seaside town of Sitges. The Festival Internacional de Cinema Fantástic i de Terror was then a modest event with a handful of low-key screenings held at the town’s only cinema, the Retiro. But in 1971, the festival’s headline film was The Abominable Dr. Phibes, starring Vincent Price, who was already a horror legend at the time. Price was awarded Best Actor that year, which was publicised internationally, but the twisted story of revenge received even more attention for another reason: a local woman supposedly fainted from fright at the first screening. From that moment on, the Sitges festival was the place to go for horror. The film festival’s notoriety was cemented in the national psyche a few years later, when a Spanish news programme reporting on the festival accidentally aired the wrong, and extremely gory, clip from one of the scheduled films during a lunchtime broadcast. But while some complained, the blood-filled teaser left many wanting more. Despite these ‘scandals’, the festival was deemed significantly important to local culture by the Catalan government, and was awarded substantial funding grants in the late Seventies. In 1983, ‘terror’ was removed from the festival’s title and strands of other genres were added to broaden its appeal. That, however, didn’t change Sitges’ reputation as a horror haven: that year, the best actor award went to Vincent Price once again. In 1992, the Sitges Film Festival had a further image change when it got a new logo. The massive form of King Kong, swatting away planes and splashing through the Mediterranean towards the town, was to grace festival posters and programmes for years to come. The giant ape’s target, the beautiful seaside church

of San Bartolomé y Santa Tecla, has also become synonymous with the festival’s image; in recent years both a flaming baby carriage and a slew of alien eggs have shown up on the steps of the building in the festival’s posters. Aside from promotion, Sitges has always been skilled in nurturing emerging horror filmmakers. In 1993, the festival hosted the debut feature from a young Mexican director, Guillermo Del Toro. A unique and imaginative take on the vampire myth Cronos (1993) wowed the festival that year, winning Del Toro the screenwriting award. He has gone on to become a multiple Oscar-winner for Pan’s Labyrinth (2006) and one of the most celebrated Spanish-language filmmakers in the world. The work of Barcelona’s very own Jaume Balagueró and Paco Plaza had been shown at the festival long before the Rec series (2007-2014) took the world by storm; Balagueró won Best Short Film for his debut, Alicia, back in 1994. This year both Balagueró—with new horror Muse (2017)—and Del Toro return to Sitges; the latter will open the festival with The Shape of Water (2017). The enthusiasm among festival organisers and horror fans in Sitges inspires loyalty from its famous guests. Hollywood actors, such as The Lord of The Rings alumni Viggo Mortensen and Elijah Wood, are regular attendees at the festival, as well as acclaimed director Quentin Tarantino. The Spider-Man trilogy (2002-2007) director, Sam Raimi, summed up the appeal of Sitges when talking about his debut film, cult shocker The Evil Dead (1981): “Sitges played an important role in helping our little-known, independent movie find an audience. The Sitges Film Festival has the best horror film lovers in the world!” This year’s festival runs from October 5th to the 15th and will include hundreds of horror, fantasy, animation and documentary screenings, as well as themed events, such as the annual Sitges Zombie Walk on October 7th. Tickets and the full programme are available online. sitgesfilmfestival.com

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Clowning

Around Donnchadh Tiernan speaks to kiva murphy about life as a professional clown

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s I made my way to meet Kiva Murphy, a Franco-Irish clown and entrepreneur, at her home in Barcelona, I realised I didn’t quite know what to expect. That is, until I was greeted with everything I should have expected, from the little that I knew about Kiva. Inside her apartment, there isn’t a bit of space that goes unused, and by the end of our meeting I knew it was as close to a physical construction of her mind as she could hope to achieve. The wall is a maze of art. There are enough typewriters and phones to decorate the set of a Sixties office drama, and an old armoire filled with books and booze. The game is given away, however, by a massive desktop Mac, the sketchpad of this century’s beatnik and, in a way, the reason we’re here; for Kiva, clowning around is a serious business. “The rules say that there are people who make money and have a commercial attitude, and there are people who are really artistic but really broke. But I don’t think you should have to fall into either category. What, to be an artist I have to be broke, struggling, wearing secondhand clothes? My parents are entrepreneurs, so I grew up with the attitude that if you work hard you should get paid, but that it’s up to you to make it happen.” When Kiva was around five, roughly seven years after her father won her mother in a game of chess (true story), her father quit his job in a bank and together her parents set up a video production company, which is still in business today. Kiva never had any interest in being behind a camera, although by her late teens she had made her way in front of a few with a small part in the Irish soap opera Fair City. “Then one day I saw the movie Patch Adams (1998) and was introduced to the concept of clown doctoring. I was inspired to go and audition for the Australian Humour Foundation with no experience, but I got the gig. I was 18 and I had no freaking idea what I was doing. I went to Clown College after that.” Now, let’s first deal with a few preconceptions. If your image of a clown involves floppy shoes and a painted smile, think again.

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Clowning is, in Kiva’s words, “a pure sense of play, or unadulterated naivety”. She counts Mr. Bean as her favourite mainstream clown, but Buster Keaton and Charlie Chaplin as close contenders.

For Kiva, clown doctoring was not simply her gateway but continues to be her guiding light “Clown College is hardcore. Ecole Jacques Lecoq in Paris [where I attended] is very expensive, which unfortunately means you only get a certain type of person, and it’s very competitive. The course is two years long and starts in September. Half the participants get shown the door at Christmas and half again at the end of first year. They teach you everything except how to produce a show and how to sell a show, two areas that are critically lacking from the programme.” But Kiva has a business mind. She owns a clowning agency based in London (Alakazam Clowns) that provides a stable, steady income to support her theatre company, Ducks Can Fly. It’s through the latter that she produces her shows, which she takes on tour to fringe festivals globally. Spotting a Judges Choice Award from the 2016 Canadian Fringe, I stumble upon a reason why there might be so many telephones in my immediate vicinity. “Alpha Delta is a show I made with a Portuguese friend of mine. It’s about two clowns during the Cold War whose job it is to listen in

on people’s phone calls. They’re supposed to find people who are in love and then detain them.” Following up on this line of questioning, I learn about a show she’s co-producing about death—“The absurdity that surrounds buying a coffin and scattering ashes, all the while grieving, is darkly comic”—and another about love throughout the ages. I have to wonder about how the process works. “I start with a vague idea of what I want to do. For Alpha Delta, I knew I wanted to do something with telephones, partly inspired by the phone tapping scandal. Once I get that, I rent out a space with some people and we just play. Each day someone different leads the session. My director will pop these giant sheets on the wall and if we like something we draw it. When the week is done, we connect the idea drawings and that forms the basis for what we’ll do.” For Kiva, clown doctoring was not simply her gateway but continues to be her guiding light, and she makes regular trips to hospitals to share her joy with patients. She recounts a trip she took to rural Romania: “So many of the kids had never seen a clown, or magic, or even a violin, and they just sat there with no idea what was going to happen.” I ask her about how they compared to a more jaded audience of the iPad era: “Coulrophobia [the fear of clowns] has become such a hip thing—I blame Stephen King—but when it gets down to it [...] everyone wants to play. I remember one night in New York, we were doing Alpha Delta. We had a guy on stage and we were running an old wind-up radio up and down his body like a metal detector, testing for love. We got to a ring and we said ‘you’re definitely in love’ and he played along and denied it and denied it, and all of a sudden his wife stood up and threw a ring at the ground and yelled ‘What the f%£&?!’ Moments like that are to me the real success—when everyone’s getting into it and playing along with this whole world that I’ve created.” Kiva will be putting on a show about love in Barcelona—her first in the city—at some point in the next year. Keep your eyes peeled.

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WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON

SITGES FILM FESTIVAL (October 5th-15th)

THE BEST OF the month ahead

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music A GIFT FROM ABOVE

LORDE. SANT JORDI CLUB. Pg. OLÍMPIC 5-7. OCTOBER 9TH. With a name to suit her quirky style, Ella Yelich-O’Connor, better known as Lorde, is blazing a trail with her unique brand of pop. Showing up at this year’s VMA’s sporting a silver tutu and a pair of Adidas trainers, Lorde’s performance blew fans away, without even opening her mouth. As the crowd looked on eagerly, the brave New Zealander danced like nobody was watching, accompanied by a boom box blaring out her recent hit ‘Homemade Dynamite’. Post-awards rumours suggested that this was due to the flu, but it would not be out of character for the pop anomaly to express her creativity in an alternative way. Regardless of her reasons, she demonstrated her allround talent and ability to hold a crowd with her dancing. Often pigeon-holed into the pop category with the likes of Taylor Swift and Katy Perry, Lorde attracts a slightly more eclectic audience. Her style is not classic pop; her videos and music show a more introverted side to the musician and possess a darker, artistic edge. Having recently released her second studio album, Melodrama (2017), Lorde is embarking upon a tour of the UK and Europe, followed by a long list of dates in North America. Supporting her on the first leg of her tour is up-and-coming act Khalid, who has taken over the summer airwaves with earworm ‘Young, Dumb and Broke’; two for the price of one for pop fans out there.

LOUD NOISES

SWANS. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. OCTOBER 15TH.

After more than three decades in the business, Michael Gira remains one of music’s most intriguing artists. Swans have stood the test of time, undergoing innumerable line-up changes that add to the unique nature of the group. Known for their unbearably loud live shows, with volume levels that have, on occasion, driven spectators out of gigs, they produce sounds which resonate through the walls and endless chords, making for an unparalleled sonic experience. The stage is still a place of creativity and experimentation for the band. Often premiering new material at concerts, they use live shows as an opportunity to develop and

improve on pieces. “It’s creatively fertile to work out new material in front of an audience,” explained Gira in an interview with The Guardian. “When we start, it’s pretty crude, but it’s invigorating to play upon that crucible.” Their long pre-show rehearsals are clearly paying off as they continue to sell out shows. Currently touring with their latest album, The Glowing Man (2016), Gira has announced that it will be his final tour with the current set of musicians, emphasising that this is not due to any rupture in the group, but simply a choice to unite different musicians for each album. A swan song for the band but not for Gira.

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BITE BACK

PAPA ROACH. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. OCTOBER 14TH. Papa Roach hit mainstream success at the turn of the century with their influential album Infest (2000), followed by Lovehatetragedy (2005). Although their popularity has dwindled, they have continued to release albums, staying true to their nu-metal sound. They’ve also recently taken a step into the political sphere via Twitter, with a humorous exchange involving American Speaker of the House Paul Ryan. The band’s new single would suggest this venture into the realm of politics was not a stand-alone event. Their single ‘American Dream’ is a cutting reflection on the current state of the US, and the band pulls no punches: ‘We’re tearing down the white picket fences, A soldier bleeds, and a soldier dies’, is just a sample of the highly-politicised lyrics written by lead vocalist Jacoby Shaddix. The song addresses the consequences of war head-on and is accompanied by a poignant video filmed in Shaddix’s hometown of Sacramento, California. The video depicts the lives of the locals in the area, highlighting how they are each striving to create their own version of the American dream, despite the many barriers they are confronted with along the way. Their new album, Crooked Teeth (2017), is an angry outcry against the Trump administration and modern politics, and it’s earning Papa Roach a space back in the spotlight.

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music ROYAL ROCK

ROYAL BLOOD. SANT JORDI CLUB. PG. OLÍMPIC 5-7. OCTOBER 30TH. ‘Thunderous’ and ‘storming’ was how NME described Royal Blood’s set at this year’s Glastonbury. Not only were the Sussex-born lads playing one of the world’s most prestigious music festivals, they also found out mid-set that their latest album, How did we get so dark? (2016), had hit the number one spot on the UK Top 40 Singles Chart—sure to be an unforgettable moment in the life of any musician. Since the release of their self-titled debut album in 2014, Royal Blood have been gaining ground with their old-school style rock. Comprising just two musicians, Mike Kerr on bass/ vocals and Ben Thatcher on guitar, they make the sound of a ten-strong band. But they weren’t always the rock gods they are today; both musicians did their time playing the wedding circuit to earn a living. Lacking in artistic freedom, they teamed up to let their creativity loose, unleashing an infectious sound that has seen them rise quickly in the music world. The heavy bass, modified by pick-ups and yoked together with rolling drums, makes for an almighty sound that has led them to become one of the most talked about bands of the moment. With feet still firmly on the ground, they have teamed up with the Yellow Bird Project to use their newfound success for a good cause; together they’ve released a number of exclusive T-shirts, donating all funds raised to help young adults with cancer. A refreshing combination of social awareness and sound, Royal Blood will be blaring out their chart-topping hits at Sant Jordi Club this month.

JAZZING UP THE CITY

VOLL-DAMM INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL. VARIOUS LOCATIONS. OCTOBER 17TH-DECEMBER 19TH. Now almost half a century old, the Voll-Damm International Jazz Festival continues to grow in strength as it releases yet another infallible line-up of some of the world’s most prestigious jazz acts. Kicking off this year’s event is five-time Grammy award-winner Diana Krall, who will be presenting Turn Up The Quiet (2017), her 14th studio album of classic, graceful jazz. Playing at the Auditori del Fòrum, its acoustics will lend themselves beautifully to her enrapturing sound. Also on the list are Carlos Caro and Sabor Cubano, a quintet who put their own twist on some of Cuba’s finest music. The sound of the violin, played by Caro, softens the traditional Cuban melodies, whilst keeping the smooth rhythms that will make your hips swing. With acts old and new, the festival offers the opportunity to uncover some fresh talent. This year sees DC rapper and producer Oddisee playing alongside his band Good Company at Luz de Gaz. His brand of socially conscious music, all self-produced, is causing a stir on the music scene, mixing a strong message with infectious rap and soulful beats. Continuing into November, the festival has over 50 acts playing at some of Barcelona’s finest venues.

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IN CONCERT

1st. John Nemeth and The Blue Dreamers Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. Clap Your Hands Say Yeah Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 4th. Doctor Prats Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 5th. Ben Caplan Sidecar. Pl. Reial 7. 6th. Hombres G & Taburete Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 7th. Raphael Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 9th. Lorde Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 10th. Khatia Buniatishvili Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 11th. Los Espírititus Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 12th. John Legend Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 13th. Estricnina Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 14th. Papa Roach Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 15th. Leroy Sánchez Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 15th. Brant Bjork Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 17th. Diana Krall Auditori del Fòrum. Pl. Leonardo da Vinci 11-14. 18th. Soen Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 19th. Logan Richardson Auditori del Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88. 20th. Carlos Caro y Sabor Cubano Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8. 21st. Albert Cirera y Tres Tambors Luz de Gaz. Muntaner 246. 24th. TYCHO Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 25th. !!! (Chk Chk Chk) Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 27th. Jacques Greene Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 28th. Oddisee & Good Company Luz de Gaz. Muntaner 246. 30th. Royal Blood Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7.

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art THE GATES OF HELL

HELL ACCORDING TO RODIN. FUNDACIÓN MAPFRE. Diputació 250. Opening October 11th. French artist Auguste Rodin, considered by many to be the father of modern sculpture, spent his early years labouring as an ornamental sculptor before attracting the fame and appreciation reserved for the likes of Michelangelo. Fundación Mapfre’s latest exhibition offers a new perspective on his iconic work The Gates of Hell (1917), which has influenced the evolution of sculpture and the arts over the years. Rodin was commissioned in 1880 to create a pair of bronze doors for a new decorative arts museum in Paris, which never actually opened. Nevertheless, he spent 37 years completing the doors, which were eventually considered the defining work of his career. Inspired by Dante Alighieri’s The Divine Comedy (1472), Rodin’s ‘Gates’ depict a scene from the Inferno, the first section of the epic poem. Not only does this exhibition give an insight into Rodin’s image of hell as a mysterious, tormented and tempestuous place, it also sheds light on Rodin’s life and the history of this masterpiece.

A CENTURY ON

1917. PICASSO IN BARCELONA. MUSEU PICASSO. Montcada 15-23. Opening October 26th. The year 1917 saw an artistic boom in Barcelona. The ‘Exposició d’art francès’ (exhibition of French art) arrived at the Palau de les Belles Arts—which was later demolished during the Spanish Civil War—and new galleries, Galería Sala Dalmau and Galeries Laietanes, generated a cultural buzz. This period also coincided with Picasso’s longest stay in the city since relocating to Paris in 1904. Having finished designing sets and costumes for the Ballet Russes’ production of Parade, Picasso travelled with the company to Barcelona, where he spent six months alternating between his well-known Cubist style and a more classical, realist approach, exemplified in Woman with Mantilla [Fatma] (1917). This exhibition presents all but one of his oil paintings from this period, as well as documents, drawings and sketches that, together, give a comprehensive view of how the artist spent his time in the city.

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REVIEW

Female of the species Will Shank visits ‘Family Sayings’ by Paula Rego at Palau de la Virreina Until October 8th

hy is Paula Rego not internationally renowned? These are the last days of the amazing Barcelona exhibition devoted to her work, which will finish on October 8th, and you should rush to see it before it’s too late. Lisbon-born Rego was part of the London Group with David Hockney and Frank Auerbach, and she has lived in the UK since the Fifties, becoming a Dame of the British Empire in 2010. Now an octogenarian, she doesn’t seem to have slowed down one whit, as her paintings and engravings from recent years bear witness. Rego’s predominant theme is women, and in particular the depiction of women in a controlling, misogynistic society. Her women are not beautiful nor elegantly dressed, but they are strong, feisty survivors, in spite of the pain that they endure. The tone of the show moves quickly from quirkily eccentric (e.g. The Fitting, which would be a traditional scene in a tailor’s shop were it not for the Balthus-like little girl splayed across an armchair in the background) to deeply disturbing (the Abortion series) during the course of a few short galleries. Her book illustrations make characters from Charlotte Brontë’s Jane Eyre look more like the Addams Family. Some of her ‘women’ have five o’clock shadows and appear to be transvestites. Ambiguity abounds, with self-portraits of the artist at work wearing the head of a wild animal. In Rego’s interpretation of Little Red Riding Hood, the wolf is a sleazy villain whose crime is eventually avenged by the high-heeled mother of Red Riding Hood, who pierces his belly with a pitchfork and then wears his pelt around her neck in triumph.

There are many direct influences on Rego’s work, such as the Caprichos etchings of Goya and the social satire of Hogarth. Some of her series are visual interpretations of plays (by Malcolm McDonagh) or musical compositions (Benjamin Britten’s ‘The Children’s Crusade’). The exhibition’s title itself is the name of a book by Italian novelist Natalia Ginzburg. Still, I found myself wishing that the wall text was a little less heavy-handed. Filled with comparisons to (almost exclusively male) artists of the past, the explanations by the curator direct the viewer away from the immediate, intense experience of viewing Rego’s paintings and drawings with fresh eyes, by putting them into a male-centric context. There is some unintentional irony here. The intensity of Rego’s work cannot fail to affect the viewer. The drawings in the Misericordia series, inspired by the writings of 19th-century Spanish novelist Benito Pérez Galdós, show patients being mistreated in what appears to be a nursing home or insane asylum. Nothing, however, prepared me for the Abortion series, where miserable women in stirrups are victimised, first by their situation and then by the system that claims to help them. (These observations about Rego’s depiction of painful subjects are praise, by the way, not warnings!) The Barcelona venue, usually devoted to photography exhibitions, is a curious choice for this show. It’s a pity that Rego’s exhibition is in the hidden-away upper floor galleries of the Palau de la Virreina instead of, for instance, CaixaForum, where many more visitors could discover her work.

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art THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION

AFTER THE END OF THE WORLD. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Opening October 24th. As one of the most significant pieces of legislation in environmental history, the Paris Agreement has the power to change civilization as we know it. Signed by 195 countries, the climate accord aims to unite the world in reducing carbon emissions and the use of fossil fuels, in order to stop a rise in global temperature of more than two degrees. ‘After The End Of The World’ goes further than just providing a scientific explanation of climate change, and uses art and simulation to demonstrate the planet’s depleting resources. It also sparks a conversation about what the world will look like in the latter half of the 21st century, and our society’s responsibility to future generations. Through multidisciplinary pieces, the exhibition makes viewers fully aware of what could happen if the Paris Agreement isn’t successful. Such pieces include Superflux, a speculative look at what a London apartment in the year 2050 might look like, and the Environmental Health Clinic, a reimagining of relations between animal and plant life forms created by engineer and artist Natalie Jeremijenko.

SURFACE VALUE

MACBA COLLECTION. BENEATH THE SURFACE. MACBA. Pl. dels Àngels 1. Opening October 11th. Consisting of 30 works from the MACBA’s collection and three from the contemporary art collection of the Fundació ‘la Caixa’, all the chosen pieces focus on the limits of representation, as well as the relevance of the artist and art in contemporary society. Loaded with theoretical content relating to the personal and political beliefs of the artists themselves, these works offer an insight into the contemporary use of materials and surface textures. The first area of the exhibition displays works from artists such as Ignasi Aballí, Antoni Tàpies and Lucio Fontana, which experiment with the canvas by either highlighting the pigment layer or denying its materiality. Other works featured include Doris Salcedo’s Atrabiliarios (1993), in which boxes filled with unpaired shoes evoke the idea of disappearance, and Michelangelo Pistoletto’s Architettura dello specchio (1990), meaning ‘Architecture of the Mirror’, which deals with the subject matter of reflection.

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EXHIBITIONS

OPENINGS FUNDACIÓ VILA CASAS Lita Cabellut Multi-talented painter, sculptor, photographer and poet, Lita Cabellut exhibits some of her most wellknown work, such as Flower Installations (2016-17), Disturbance (2015) and Blind Mirror (2015). Opening October 5th. Espai Volart i Volart 2. TRES PUNTS GALERIA Ramon Surinyac Known for his meticulous, intense and repetitive process of composition, Barcelona-born painter Ramon Surinyac chooses the representation of places and landscapes as his focal point in his latest selection of work. Opening October 11th. Enric Granados 21. CENTRE CÍVIC COTXERES BORRELL Dancing Kings Photographer Lys Moya-Angeler’s series focuses on dance and movement, capturing professional dancers as they perform in front of the camera. Opening October 17th. Viladomat 2-8. MNAC The Entropic Box. Collision of History and Culture Catalan artist and curator Francesc Torres selects works from the museum’s 19th and 20th-century collection in order to explore the collision between history and culture, and the constant struggle to preserve both through the medium of art. Opening October 20th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc.

LAST CHANCE LA VIRREINA 155. La balada de Simón Using drawings, maps and documents, this exhibition gives an insight into the life of militant UkrainianArgentine worker and anarchist Simón Radowitzky. Until October 8th. La Rambla 99. PALAU ROBERT Dalí, Breaking News See Dalí’s media presence throughout his career in this photography exhibition, which offers a new way to think about the unconventional Catalan artist. Until October 15th. Pg. de Gràcia 107. MACBA Forensic Architecture This exhibition explores how issues of public truth, state propaganda and human rights abuses are depicted through technology and architecture. Until October 15th. Pl. dels Àngels 1. CAIXAFORUM El Mundo de Giorgio de Chirico: Dream or Reality A retrospective exhibition on Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico, a pioneer in the revival of Classicism in Europe in the early Twenties and known for his eerie and melancholic cityscapes. Until October 22nd. Avda. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

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misc LONG AND SHORT OF IT

FICGLB 2017. Filmoteca de Catalunya. Pl. de Salvador Seguí 1-9. October 19th-29th. The 17th edition of the Festival Internacional de Cine Gay y Lésbico de Barcelona presents more than 50 short and feature films from around the globe that celebrate, investigate and debate LGBTI issues. The festival will open on October 19th with a screening of a film from Cuba—the guest country at this year’s event. Santa and Andrés (2016) is a politically-tinged drama that has been banned in its home country, although critics have praised it as a ‘singular love story’, and it has already received numerous awards internationally. The festival will also showcase feature films exploring important social issues facing the worldwide LGBTI community, such as After Louie (2017), starring Alan Cumming as an AIDS activist, and El Cisne (2016), a film exploring transphobia in Latin American cultures. Although the feature films are traditionally the biggest draw of the programme, this year’s festival also has an exciting line-up of shorts. The Almodóvar brothers will present Princesa de Hielo (2017), a short film produced by their company, El Deseo; and perhaps one of the biggest surprises of the festival is the short directed by and starring Danny Devito. Best known for his comedic performances, Devito changes direction with the theatre adaptation Curmudgeons (2016), a story about two grouchy old men who embrace a surprising love late in their lives. Described as ‘funny, romantic and heartfelt’, the film was a labour of love from Devito, who wanted to bring the story to the screen to showcase the work of his friend and co-star David Margulies, who sadly passed away after filming completed. barcelonafilmfestival.org

PRIVATE SPACES

48H Open House. Various locations. October 21st & 22nd. Barcelona’s biggest architecture event is back for its eighth edition. More than 175 buildings around Barcelona will open to the public, many of which are usually private. 48H Open House attempts to bring Barcelona residents closer to the history and cultural heritage of the city, with many opportunities to meet the buildings’ occupants and architects, and also includes a series of free activities and conferences. This year, the festival is introducing an OPEN SOCIAL section, which looks at how the different landscapes of the city converge to discover how architecture can improve people’s lives. The section also attempts to answer the questions of accessibility, sustainability, energy poverty and inclusive housing with ‘Meet the Expert’ meetings. The Open House project was founded in London in 1992 and has since spread to New York, Dublin, Galway and Tel Aviv. 48hopenhousebarcelona.org

ice and fire

GAME OF THRONES: THE TOURING EXHIBITION. Museu Marítim de Barcelona. Avda. de les Drassanes, s/n. Opening October 28th. Winter is coming to Barcelona. Game of Thrones fans will be delighted to hear that the show’s official touring exhibition will make its global debut at Barcelona’s Museu Marítim. The talented artisans, designers and craftsmen behind what has become the most popular TV series of all time have come together to create a 10,000-square-foot interactive exhibition, giving visitors a first-hand experience of the show’s authentic props, costumes and settings. Prepare to be immersed in the iconic landscapes and environments of Westeros; tremble in the glacial fortress of Castle Black and follow the footsteps of many along the tree-lined King’s Road, before kneeling in awe of the Westeroi seat of power, The Iron Throne. While Spain has been home to some of the show’s most notable settings, from the steps of Dragonstone to the Great Pit of Daznak, Rafael Giménez, the director of Sold Out, said, “The cosmopolitan character of Barcelona and the huge fan base of this fantastic television saga ... are the main reasons to have selected Barcelona [for the tour’s global debut]”. gameofthronesexhibition.com

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JOIN THE CLUB

Monumental Club. La Monumental. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 749. October 28th & 29th. This month sees the launch of Monumental Club, a new leisure and cultural concept set to take place in the unique and emblematic location of Barcelona’s old bullfighting arena, La Monumental. To be held across one weekend each month, Monumental Club will combine live music performances with a market, a selection of gastronomic delights and children’s activities. The first edition, taking place on October 28th and 29th, will include performances from Delafé, a project by Barcelona local Oscar D’Aniello, who will present his debut solo album, as well as pop musician Bigott and Sardinian DJ Raver Jewish, among others. While music will be the event’s main focus, the market plans to have fashion and accessories, recycled and alternative objects, design and handmade products, innovative ideas from start-up businesses, and of course, plenty of Barcelona’s best street food. guia.barcelona.cat

FIND YOUR FEET

Barcelona International Community Day. Museu Marítim de Barcelona. Avda. de les Drassanes, s/n. October 21st. Barcelona International Community Day returns on October 21st for the fourth year running. The event is designed to unite Barcelona’s expat community, facilitating the integration of foreign residents by providing the vital information and connections necessary to live, work and enjoy the city. There will be an opportunity to exchange contacts and share experiences with people in the same situation as you, whether that be on a professional or social level. The programme for the event is composed of conferences, talks and round tables divided into three main subject areas: personal landing in Barcelona, working and doing business in Barcelona, and having fun and making contacts in Barcelona. Covering practical, professional and personal matters, the event promises to help new arrivals to find their feet and make progress in the city as quickly as possible. internationalcommunityday.barcelonactiva.cat

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The German-inspired celebration returns to Barcelona, complete with traditional polka music, Bavarian cuisine and, of course, lots of beer. Fira Barcelona. Until October 22nd. BARCELONA INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW The largest boating event in Spain returns with a host of fun and exciting activities for nautical enthusiasts. Port Vell. Until October 15th.

The opening of a new exhibition, presenting the work of the Spanish artist who won the 2016 Fundació Vila Casas Prize for painting. 7.30pm. Museu Can Framis.

LORDE The talented young pop superstar from New Zealand will play songs from her new album, Melodrama. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club.

ANGUS & JULIA STONE (24TH)

11 OCKTOBERFEST BARCELONA

THIS IS NOT THIS HEAT Forty years after their first concert, the surviving members of the English post-punk band This Heat reunite for a revival of their influential sound. 9pm. Razzmatazz.

Held in a cosy coffee shop, a professional artist will guide you step by step in creating your very own copy of Van Gogh’s The Starry Night. 8pm. Sandwichez Floridablanca.

The darlings of American indie rock return to Barcelona to perform tracks from their fifth studio album, The Tourist (2017). 8pm. Sala Apolo.

RADIO MOSCOW The psychedelic rock band from Stone City, Idaho are known for their wild shows, and The Drifting Tour promises to be no different. 7pm. Rocksound.

4SALIR CON ARTE

WED NE SDAY

3CLAP YOUR HANDS SAY YEAH

TUE SDAY

9JORDI DIAZ ALAMÀ

LORDE (9TH)

MONDAY

FUEGO LIVE!: PRINCESS NOKIA This musical collective led by 22-year-old New Yorker Destiny Nicole Ortiz combine tribal rhythms, trip hop and R&B beats. 8.30pm. Razzmatazz.

The 10-time Grammy winner brings Barcelona his biggest tour yet, Darkness and Light. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi.

12 JOHN LEGEND

EROTIC SHOW 2017 This convention brings the world of erotica to Barcelona once again. CEM Olímpics. Until October 8th.

CONOR DRUM Guiriness Comedy Barcelona brings the Irish comedian to the stage, fresh from the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. 8.30pm. The Shamrock.

SKIDS The American rock band visit Spain for the first time in eight years to play their latest album, The Electric Pinecones (2016). 8:30pm. Razzmatazz.

13 SOUTHERN CULTURE ON THE

COUSTEAUX The London-based band whose sound has been compared to David Bowie, Scott Walker and Nick Cave return to play their first new tracks in 10 years. 9.30pm. Razzmatazz.

Kids will love this workshop that encourages young architects to create the buildings, roads and bridges of their dreams using various materials. 5pm. Centre Cívic Cotxeres Borrell.

6LUDOTECA FAMILIAR

5SITGES FILM FESTIVAL The 50th edition of the international horror and fantasy festival begins with the Spanish premiere of festival patron Guillermo Del Toro’s adult fairy tale The Shape of Water (2017). Various locations. Until October 15th.

FRIDAY

T HURSDA Y

PAPA ROACH The Californian rock band will play tracks from their recent album, Crooked Teeth (2017). 8pm. Sala Apolo.

This event gathers together artists from around the world for a massive networking event. ArteriaBCN. October 13th-14th.

14 ART LOVER GROUND

RAPHAEL The influential Spanish singer returns to Barcelona to play new songs, alongside classics, from over 50 years in the music business. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi.

An all-day TED event with 12 live talks and 12 interactive workshops, all centred around hope and actions to make the world a better place. 10am. Lluïsos Teatre.

7TEDXGRACIA: HOPE

SAT URDAY

SWANS The American experimental rock band will play songs from their recent album, The Glowing Man (2016), alongside Baby Dee, a performance artist with an impressive vocal range. 7pm. Sala Apolo.

LEROY SANCHEZ The Spanish pop sensation, who first got noticed on YouTube, arrives with hits from his 2017 EP, Elevated. 8pm. Razzmatazz.

EL FLEA More bargains and secondhand steals at this monthly market. 10am. Pl. de Blanquerna.

For the first time in Barcelona, 1,000 physicians from over 50 countries will swap their white coats for evening attire to perform a charity concert, with proceeds going to two selected non-profit medical aid organizations. 7.30pm. L'Auditori.

8WORLD DOCTORS ORCHESTRA

SUN DAY

UNDER THE SURFACE (16TH)

October 2017

THIS MONTH

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The dance-punk band with the weird name, from California, come to disrupt Barcelona with their new album, Shake The Shudder (2017). 8pm. Sala Apolo.

The brother and sister folk and indie pop duo from Sydney present their fourth studio album, Snow (2017). 9pm. Razzmatazz.

BARCELONA '92 IMAGES (UNTIL SEPT 26TH)

HALLOWEEN GHOST HUNT A fun-filled scavenger hunt around the spooky Gothic Quarter on the scariest night of the year, complete with ghost stories. Includes entry into the Halloween after party at City Hall. 8pm. George Payne Irish Bar.

SHOW Celebrate Halloween with the eighth edition of this annual fantasy and horror film festival, which screens a selection of creative and spooky short films. 6pm. Antic Teatre.

The English hard rock duo will play tracks from their recent album, How Did We Get So Dark? (2017), including popular single ‘Lights Out’. 7pm. Sant Jordi Club.

BRIDE OF THE MONSTER (1955) Just in time for Halloween, a screening of director Ed Wood’s camp film classic, featuring the legendary Dracula actor Bela Lugosi. 8.30pm. Antic Teatre.

31 THE ANTIC HORROR PICTURE

30 ROYAL BLOOD

AFTER THE END OF THE BAND OF HORSES (8TH) WORLD (24TH)

25 !!! (CHK CHK CHK)

24 ANGUS & JULIA STONE

AFTER THE END OF THE WORLD An exhibition about how we’ll reach the world of the latter half of the 21st century, and about our society’s responsibility to future generations. CCCB. Until April 29th, 2018.

LES VAMPIRES (1915) This silent French crime film series is said to have inspired Alfred Hitchcock and Luis Buñuel, and is accompanied tonight by live music. 5pm. Filmoteca de Catalunya.

DANCING KINGS Photographer and dancer Lys Mora presents a series of work in which dance and movement are the focus. Centre Cívic Cotxeres Borrell. Until November 18th.

KILLERS FROM SPACE (1953) Expect retro, cheesy thrills at this screening of the Fifties sci-fi film about plastic-eyed aliens trying to abduct a nuclear scientist. 8.30pm. Antic Teatre.

AMFEST 2017 This year's edition of the three-day instrumental/experimental/noise rock festival includes bands such as Truckfighters, And So I Watch You From Afar, and Mourn. Sala Apolo. Until October 28th.

A workshop and talk by Ana Novel on how to paint using Renoir’s luminous palette, followed by a screening of a film about the artist's final years. 6pm. Centre Cívic Cotxeres Borrell.

26 RENOIR (2012)

DELUXE The French funk-jazz group bring their groove, mad energy and moustaches to Barcelona. 8.30pm. Sala Apolo.

The 10th anniversary of the festival de música i cultura negra a Barcelona includes Tank and The Bangas from New Orleans, Jungle Fire from Los Angeles and Nomadic Massive from Montreal. Various locations. Until October 31st.

19 SAY IT LOUD FESTIVAL

STU LARSEN The Australian singer-songwriter visits Barcelona to promote his new album, Resolute (2017), with support from fellow Aussie Tim Hart. 7.30pm. Centre Artesà Tradicionàrius.

Try locally produced wines from Priorat, Montsant and Costers del Segre, and cava from the best vineyards in the Penedès region at this weekend fair. Institut Català de la Vinya i el Vi. Until October 29th.

27 WINE AND CAVA SHOW

PRIMAVERA CLUB The autumn music festival offshoot returns, with 36 artists playing over the weekend in Sala Apolo and Centre Cultural Albareda. Until October 22nd.

Catalan artist Francesc Torres selects work from the museum’s collection that explores the collision between history and culture. MNAC. Until January 14th, 2018.

20 THE ENTROPIC BOX

HARRY POTTER AND THE CHAMBER OF SECRETS (2002) A screening of the second film set at Hogwarts, accompanied by John Williams' iconic score, played by a live orchestra. 7pm. Palau Sant Jordi.

Pros and beginners alike are invited to this free outdoor dance event, where everybody can boogie to swing music provided by a live DJ. 11.30am. Pl. d’Orfila.

28 BALLADA SWING

MERCAT DE MERCATS This food fair boasts up to 36 stalls, 24 local producers, 12 wine cellars, 13 city restaurants and 26 chefs from across Catalunya. Avda. de la Catedral. Until October 23rd.

COMPETITION Local restaurants grill their signature dishes for the public, alongside barbecue workshops, product demos and live music. Pl. de Sant Josep Oriol. Until October 22nd.

21 BARCELONA BBQ FESTIVAL &

JOHN LEGEND (12TH) JOAQUÍN SABINA (13TH)

For more information visit our website barcelona-metropolitan.com

THE ANTIC HORROR PICTURE SHOW (31ST)

FLAMARADAS A six-piece Spanish band whose influences range from folklore and traditional music, to psychedelia and minimalist rock. 9pm. Antic Teatre.

The Australian duo will play songs from their recent EP, Punchbuzz (2017), in which their usual folk sound comes closer to a melodic indie-rock. 8pm. Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm.

INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL This festival hosts an array of free concerts, masterclasses, conferences and activities dedicated to the musical genre. Various locations. Until December 19th.

Thirty works from the MACBA Collection and three from the Contemporary Art Collection of the ‘La Caixa’ Foundation share the theme of representation and its limits. MACBA. Opening October 10th.

18 HUSKY

17 VOLL-DAMM 49TH

16 UNDER THE SURFACE

A STEP TOWARDS THE PAST A space to commemorate the Spanish Civil War By Eimear Corrigan

ivil wars cause deep-rooted divides in society that can last generations—something that is still very evident in Catalunya today—and starting a dialogue, in an attempt to move on, is no mean feat. Almost 80 years since the end of the Spanish Civil War, a space is finally being created where this calamitous period of history can be explored in depth. After the death of General Franco in 1975, a political pact was made in Spain known as the Pacto del Olvido (Pact of Forgetting). No prosecutions were made for atrocities committed, nor was anybody held accountable for what had taken place during the civil war and the dictatorship that followed. Memory was exchanged for silence in order to facilitate a smooth transition to democracy. This method of dealing with the past wouldn’t last, and the innate need for those touched by war to mourn, find justice and remember continued to grow. In 2007, Zapatero’s socialist government passed the Ley de Memoría Historica (Historical Memory Law), which recognised victims on both sides of the conflict, gave greater rights to those affected by it and allowed people more freedom to memorialise their history. Excavations of mass graves have since been initiated although economic restrictions and lack of governmental support continues to hinder progress. It was within this context that a Barcelona-based project began to unfold with a focus on creating a dialogue around the Spanish Civil War. The idea was sparked by a mixed group of Catalan, Spanish and international people who had become aware of the lack of a comprehensive guide to this period, spurring them to lay the foundations of a museum dedicated to the topic. The AMIGCE (International Association for the Memory of the Spanish Civil War) has been working for over five years towards opening a museum in Barcelona dedicated to the lead up and the events of this important time in Spain’s history, and their ideas are starting to take shape. AMIGCE is keen to use the project as an opportunity to emphasise the international nature of the conflict. The group is aware that the Catalan independence question will be on the tip of many tongues, but do not want this political issue to take centre stage. A longstanding member of the association (who would prefer to remain

anonymous) said: “Part of the reason why we’re working to build an international museum is to not fall into a discourse that is based on Catalunya as a separate entity. The association has no position on that question. There are very different positions within the association, and from day one we said that we weren’t going to deal with this, we’re not taking a position on this or any other political issue. It’s a non-sectarian, non-partisan, non-religious organisation of individuals.” The background of those involved is diverse, including students, police officers, jurists, historians, journalists and artists. The international committee boasts well-known names, such as Irish writer Colm Tóibín and one of the foremost historians on the Spanish Civil War, Paul Preston. The AMIGCE representative highlighted the importance of this diversity: “It’s a very broad base of different experiences, so I think, from that perspective, we’re in a good position to look at the issue as an international conflict, without ignoring the fact that the declaration of the Catalan republic, and the strengthening of other autonomy or independence movements within Spain, were very important to the conflict.” Under the current plans, the museum will consist of seven spaces chronologically documenting the progression of the Spanish Civil War. Starting within a period of relative calm, visitors will first learn a little about life under the governments of Francesc Macià and Lluís Companys in the Thirties and the creation of the Second Republic. This will be contrasted with the rise of General Francisco Franco and Fascism across Europe. Next, they will be guided through the 1936 coup d’etat, followed by the outbreak of civil war. There will be a focus on the international role played on both sides in terms of military aid and volunteers, including the non-intervention pact and the support given to Franco from Germany and other countries. Life during the war and at the frontline will be represented in order to give visitors an idea of what it was like to live through the conflict. The permanent exhibition will finish on a sombre note, highlighting the repression, exile and misery that defined the post-war period, with harrowing images of citizens being sent to concentration camps and the mass exodus to France and elsewhere. Within each space, visitors will be brought back in time through the use of posters, artifacts and interactive resources, allowing

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Bracelet for school transport

them to interpret the museum in their own way. Taking a didactic approach, the association wants to move away from the traditional method of spoon-feeding ideas and information, and instead it will provide minimal text, allowing audiences to draw their own conclusions from the primary sources representing the different factions. The representative of AMIGCE explained how they will achieve this: “We want to make sure that each side has the opportunity to be shown as they showed themselves at the time. We don’t want to get into a critique of the political philosophies but demonstrate how they presented themselves. I think that’s a really interesting way for people to learn about the different ideologies and their philosophical and military conceptualisations of the conflict.” By placing posters side by side, visitors can contrast the different representations of women, political ideas and the press without the imposition of an ideological framework. The association intends to accompany displays with high quality audio guides, written by academics, for those who wish to delve deeper into the collections. This will be left in the reliable hands of some of the top historians in the field.

The museum will consist of seven spaces chronologically documenting the progression of the Spanish Civil War Republican flag of the Council of Aragon

Right: Iron plaque commemorating the revolution of July 19th, 1936 Below: Badge of the General Staff of the Spanish Republic

Photos courtesy of Rubèn Martínez / Barcelona Antic

Republican bracelets from Barcelona: Passive Defense (left) and Blood Donors (right)

It may come as a surprise to many that the museum will not enter into the Francoist period. This was a considered decision, based on ensuring quality and accuracy over quantity. “It’s already enough for a museum. It allows us to differentiate the conflict as an armed conflict within a set period and geography,” said the representative of AMIGCE. “The decades of complex dictatorship, the end of the dictatorship and the transition [to democracy] is deserving of a museum of its own.” AMIGCE hopes that the project becomes more than just a museum. Research points will allow visitors and students to tap into additional resources. In order to strengthen and publicise smaller museums and sites of memory around the country, a network of spaces and memorials will be compiled. One of the most exciting ventures is a virtual museum. Acting as a drop-off point for documentation and artifacts, members of the public will be able to have their documents scanned, uploaded online and added to an archive, which will become an invaluable collection of primary sources and testimonies on the Spanish Civil War. All that is left for AMIGCE to do now is secure funding and find a physical location. Currently, the association is coordinating funding with international organizations. Different types of support are being sought from different levels of government; the development of an academic-quality, popular reflection on the conflict is considered a shared responsibility of government and civil society. The group is currently in discussions with local government bodies about an existing building. As they take the final steps towards the project reaching fruition, it’s interesting to note that AMIGCE is already beginning to accomplish what it set out to do—a dialogue has already been started. Families and victims from both sides of the Spanish Civil War have been brought together, paving the way for future generations to break the silence, memorialising and remembering this important part of their history.

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Photo essay

Fleeting

light

Sam zucker finds inspiration in the golden hour before Barcelonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day begins

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have long since learned that if you wake up early enough you have the city to yourself. As I stumble upon an empty medieval street at that fleeting moment when the still-rising sun silhouettes a single, solitary neighbour on an endless canopy of hanging laundry, I move to snap the shutter quickly before the shot disappears. Professionally, I take all types of photographs, from products and food to landscapes and lifestyle, but I’m never more content than when I wander the streets of Barcelona, in the early morning and late afternoon, taking photos that capture this special, golden light. Looking through my work, it’s plain to see that I have a love affair with street lamps; perhaps it’s my soft spot for ‘old world’ charm that entices me to use these lamps as composition devices in so many of my photos. The tricky part of the pursuit of light and stillness in a frenetic city is that these perfect sun beams fall precisely through the space between the old town’s rooftops (in some cases a slit little more than three metres across) at a different time each day as the seasons progress. I wish I could say that all my shots were planned, but some of the best are simply the result of being in the right place at the right time. Knowing this, I am content to walk the city streets, camera in hand, without a destination, waiting for the magic of Barcelona to present itself, one slender ray of light at a time. zuckerandspicetravel.com

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back to earth

Make the most of the autumn harvest with these seasonal ingredients

risp air, crunchy leaves, sweaters and boots, football and pumpkins—there’s much to love about autumn. In Barcelona, especially, the season brings with it some of our favourite culinary treats. Take advantage of what the coming months have to offer by grabbing a wicker basket and foraging for wild mushrooms, or simply enjoy hearty chestnuts and warm sweet potatoes from your neighbourhood street vendor.

mountains and open fields, has long been a haven for foragers. Make sure you buy yourself a visual guide so you know what to pick and what to avoid. Visit bolets.info for pictures of edible and non-edible mushrooms, a list of guidebooks, and recipes. If you’d rather stay at home and to enjoy your mushrooms, the best way to preserve the bolets’ delicate flavours is by keeping things simple. Just fry with some garlic and parsley.

Wild mushrooms One of the first products to fill the markets and restaurants of Barcelona this season are bolets, or wild mushrooms. Hidden among the forests and mountains of Catalunya, mushroom hunting used to be the realm of a few dedicated boletaires (mushroom hunters), who would selfishly guard the locations they found, passing the knowledge along as family secrets. Now, mushroom hunting has become a popular weekend activity, and whole families head out to the country with wicker baskets in search of rovellons, girgoles and rossinyols. In fact, foraging for mushrooms has attracted so many people that some natural parks have introduced regulations that require people to obtain authorisation before picking mushrooms and limit how many mushrooms they can pick. If you’d like to go and pick your own, Montseny is a good place to start. Just an hour’s drive from Barcelona, this natural park, with its diverse landscapes of woodlands,

Roast chestnuts You know that autumn is well on its way when chestnut vendors set up their stands on street corners around the city. Over hot embers they roast chestnuts and sweet potatoes, serving them out in paper cones and warming up the chilly evenings. The chestnut’s biggest day is La Castanyada on October 31st. Taking place the day before All Saints’ Day, it is thought that this annual feast of autumnal treats has its roots in families gathering together to remember deceased relatives and ancestors. Forget Halloween and enjoy this more gentle celebration, which takes place in squares and neighbourhoods around the city. Want to roast your own? Just set the oven to 200°C. Place the chestnuts on a roasting tray and cut a small cross on the flat side of each one, making sure not to pierce the nut inside. Roast for about 30 minutes until the shells start to burst. Then take them out and let them cool before peeling.

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Sweet potato and escarola salad By Tara Stevens

Panellets The day after La Castanyada, it’s customary to eat panellets—small, marzipan-like cakes that were once made with potatoes, sweet potatoes, almonds and sugar, although nowadays the vegetables are usually replaced by flour. They come in different flavours, the most traditional ones covered in pine nuts or crushed almonds and coconut. These little delicacies are sold by weight and don’t come cheap, but it’s worth treating yourself to a few. For the real mccoy head to one of Barcelona’s most revered pastisseries, such as Mauri (Rambla de Catalunya 102), Foix de Sarrià (Major de Sarrià 57) or La Colmena (Plaça de l’Àngel 12). Don’t forget to buy a bottle of moscatel, the sweet local wine that traditionally accompanies panellets. Sweet potatoes Native to the tropical Americas, the sweet potato (moniato in Catalan) is a staple autumn food in Catalunya. Not only are they delicious roasted, their sweet, creamy flesh is surprisingly nutritious. Rich in fibre, vitamins A, C and B6, they also contain unique antioxidant properties. Get your fill of moniatos from one of the street vendors, or prepare them yourself at home. Roast them whole in the oven for 45 minutes, or peel, cut into 3cm chunks, toss with oil, salt and pepper, and roast for 35-45 minutes or until tender and golden.

INGREDIENTS 1 head escarola, washed, outer leaves discarded, inner leaves torn into bite-sized pieces 4 mid-sized sweet potatoes, well washed but not peeled, cut into 1 cm rounds 2 whole heads of garlic, top end (not the root) sliced off to expose the tops of the cloves 4 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted Olive oil FOR THE DRESSING 9 tbsp sesame oil 3 tbsp dark soy sauce 3 tsp runny honey 3 tsp Shao Xing rice wine, or lime juice 3 spring onions, sliced into thin rounds 2 tbsp finely grated ginger Combine all the ingredients and whisk well so you get a smooth emulsion. Let the flavours develop for at least 1015 minutes before serving. METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC. Toss the sweet potato and garlic in olive oil and roast for 20 minutes or so, until tender and golden. When done, drain the sweet potato on kitchen paper, and push the garlic cloves out of their casings. Heap the escarola in a large serving dish (as an optional extra, you can add any soft herbs like basil, coriander or parsley that you might have kicking around), scatter with sweet potato, garlic cloves and toasted pumpkin seeds. Finally drizzle with the dressing and serve immediately.

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IN SEASON

Your month�by�month guide to fresh market produce

January escarole calçots garlic swiss chard artichokes

February cabbage lamb’s lettuce calçots

March citrus strawberries peas broad beans beetroot tuna mackerel

April strawberries pumpkin courgettes leeks radishes

May garlic onions tomatoes apricots cherries

June farmed turbot wild mackerel asparagus peaches watermelon

July tomatoes avocados watermelon f igs nectarines paraguayos

August aubergines peppers garlic sardines swordﬁf ish mackerel

September plums, apricots f igs quinces grapes

October avocados tomatoes octopus game

November oranges lemons pomegranates game birds lamb

December blueberries pears citrus chirimoya

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WORKING LIFE

startup of the month

EELP!

CEO ALEX DÍAZ, 34, BARCELONA Eelp! is an app that is essentially a tool to make life easier. We offer to carry out all kinds of daily chores and services: looking after pets, painting your house, picking up your laundry and groceries. We contract over 300 trusted local providers to carry out the requests, from mechanics to carers for the elderly. You can use our app for a one-off service from as little as €1.45, but there is also the option to sign up for a monthly package with a set number of services. Our main users are aged between 25 and 49 years old, and generally fall into two groups. The first is the high-end clientele, who tend to use the service around 12-15 times a month and spend an average of around €2,500 a month. The second group are the medium-level, more casual clients, who will typically order around two to five times a month and spend less. We have some competition out there, but nothing we are worried about. There are many food delivery companies like JustEat and Deliveroo, but at the moment there are just a few other companies like us, who will carry out any daily chore from beginning to end. We actually use Deliveroo and Just Eat to do deliveries for us. But our services are more extensive; we will go to the supermarket with your shopping list, buy your groceries, come to your home and put them all away for you, if you ask us to.

Eelp! is very user-friendly. We have an interface that is simple and aesthetically pleasing. It’s very easy to personalise your order, and to make a recurring order for as long as you need it. For each kind of service, we have a lot of options to choose from, and a comment box to leave any special requests and details. For example, if you are looking for someone to look after your dog, you fill in the kind of dog you have, dietary needs, etc. and we fulfill it to the letter. We’re very happy with how things are going in Barcelona, so now we are looking at expanding Eelp! to other cities. On September 19th, we went live with our Eelp! service in Madrid, our second location. We spent a long time sourcing providers before opening, as it is important to know where everything is and how to get it once you’re up and running. Paris is next on the list, but not until Madrid is fully off the ground. We complete any kind of request, as long as it isn’t illegal. The weirdest order we’ve had so far was probably a costume for a bachelor party. One of the groom’s friends wanted a cow suit for the groom, but he was very specific. It had to be the most ridiculous cow costume we could get, complete with ears and udders, to cause maximum humiliation on the night out. And I think what we found really did the trick.

GET INSPIRED... DIGITAL1TO1

STARTUP GRIND BCN-SF SUMMIT

PM CAMP BARCELONA

Dolce Sitges Hotel. Oct 19th & 20th. Leaders of the digital world arrive in Sitges for two days of networking, knowledge sharing and oneto-one mentoring. Guests can create a customised agenda and network with representatives from local and multinational businesses, such as Vodafone, FC Barcelona and Guess. Javier Fernández Saavedra of Google will kickstart the event with an opening conference. digital1to1europe.clubecommerce.com

AC Hotel by Marriott & Espai Vertex @ UPC. Oct 9th & 10th. Investors and entrepreneurs from Silicon Valley and Europe provide opportunities for local businesses to talk tech and receive expert advice. There will be the usual fireside chats, customary of Startup Grind, mentoring sessions, cocktail parties, and the chance to hear from guest speakers and entrepreneurs from both Barcelona and San Francisco. startupgrind.cat

Pier 01 Tech City. Oct 6th & 7th. This participant-driven project management event uses the concept of a BarCamp, where guests create the agenda. Participants brainstorm ideas, experiences and challenges, before presenting a 45-minute talk summarising the outcome of their discussions. There will also be a keynote speaker and reception evening to open and close the event. barcelona.pm-camp.org

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WORKING LIFE

HOW to

write A cv in spanish

Give yourself a head start in the job hunt with a curriculum vitae tailored to THE local MARKET

lthough unemployment in Spain has fallen dramatically since its peak of 26.3 percent in 2013, it is still, at 17.2 percent, considerably higher than the European average (7.8%) and second only to Greece (22.5%) within the EU. With good employment opportunities so hard to come by, having a well-written curriculum vitae (CV) can be the difference between getting the job or continuing the search. As always, the key is in the preparation. A well honed CV, resume or currículum will highlight your best skills and most relevant experiences and stand out from the sea of other CVs floating on your potential employer’s desk. It’s important to adapt to the local format and to give employers what they want and need to see, or you may be discarded early on in the process. There are a couple of features of Spanish CVs which can be surprising to foreign job seekers. Nicki Kelly, Recruitment and Loyalty Manager at Holmes Place, said that “the main difference I saw when I moved to Spain in the CVs is that everyone includes a picture. This is not the case in the UK or Ireland.” Most businesses also require a detailed ‘Personal Information’ (Datos Personales) section, where you will be expected to include your date of birth. This is still standard practice in Spain, although in many countries it is no longer included. Make sure to list the languages you speak in this section, as language skills are highly valued in the cosmopolitan context of Barcelona. If you are a foreign resident, you may also want to convey a sense of permanency and willingness to stay in the city. Adding any information which can demonstrate this will give your CV added advantage.

tips for cv writing 1. Use simple language It may pose a challenge to write your CV in Spanish, especially if you don’t have a solid grasp of the language. Keep the vocabulary professional, precise and formal, and refrain from using complex phrasing to avoid inaccuracies.

2. Ask a native speaker to proofread Once completed, ask a native Spanish speaker to proofread and fine-tune your CV to avoid any embarrassing mistakes in language or grammar. There’s always a possibility that your CV will be immediately dismissed if an employer spots an error (in Spanish or in English).

3. Less is more Don’t write long, elaborate paragraphs. Whilst it is important to list your personal details, education and previous employment, it isn’t necessary to write more than a few bullet points to outline crucial information. Keep it clear, concise and informative, and limit everything to one page.

4. Include a professional photograph The photo on your CV should be professional, so steer clear of using your latest selfie. This picture leaves a lasting impression, so think carefully about how you present yourself.

5. Be relevant and honest Tailor your CV to suit the job you’re applying for. If you’re applying for a teaching position, for example, your future employer probably doesn’t need to know that you sold make-up in Sephora (unless that’s your only other work experience). Keep it up-to-date and relevant. Most importantly, be honest, especially when it comes to your level of Spanish or Catalan, as this will be obvious the moment you walk into an interview.

5. REFERENCES It’s common for people to state at the end of the CV that references can be provided on request, or to include contact details of a referee.

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PERSONAL DETAILS According to Emilie Grandjean, Director at Page Personnel in Barcelona, “In Spain, employers require you to provide more personal details, something that could be considered discriminatory in other countries”. You should include your full name, date of birth, nationality, current address, telephone number (with the international dialling code if necessary), email address and NIE (if you have one). However, it’s not uncommon to be asked for further details, such as your marital status or number of dependants, in an interview.

Professional photograph In Spain, employers like to put a face to a name. “The picture should be clear and from the shoulders upwards, much like a passport style photo. It should be as recent as possible and placed at the top right-hand corner of the CV,” advises Kelly.

Languages Speaking multiple languages is a valuable asset to most employers in Barcelona. Make sure you highlight your linguistic skills by stating your level and any certifications you have.

Additional Information education Whilst it is required to list your educational background, including names of institutions attended, dates, courses taken and grades and certifications, start with your first years at university. There’s no need to start as far back as primary school. Additionally, make sure to include any complementary courses you’ve accomplished that will enhance your profile.

Previous Employment Spanish standards require you to list your previous employers in reverse chronological order, including names and addresses for each company, dates, job title and tasks and responsibilities. It’s not necessary to write more than a few lines for each place of work.

Add any extra pieces of information at the end of your CV that enhance your application, such as computer skills, having a driving licence, or willingness to travel as part of the job. In today’s job market, employers often look for flexibility. This is particularly relevant in relation to digital tools, and if you can demonstrate an ability to learn and adapt that may be advantageous. Grandjean added that you can include “memberships you have, voluntary initiatives you have taken, your blogs, websites or hobbies”, if relevant.

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Photo by Lewis Gregory

WORKING LIFE

A DAY IN THE LIFE Jessika Klingspor, 50, Sweden, Entrepreneur Jessika moved to Barcelona in 2001 to start a new life. Today she runs two businesses, Performance Barcelona (performancebarcelona.com), a destination management company, and the Muro Lab (themurolab.com), an innovative decoration concept. She’s also a certified business coach, and works to empower women in the city as head of SWEA Professional Barcelona, a global network for Swedishspeaking women.

expansion of Performance, with five new destinations in the works (Madrid, Mallorca, Ibiza, Malaga and Alicante). A lot of time and energy goes into finding the right venues—hotels, locations, etc.—to fulfil the high expectations of our clients. I either work from the office in the Eixample, together with my business partner and team, or I work at Soho House Barcelona, where I’m a founder member. The creative vibe of the Club Floor is an excellent environment for putting new proposals together or having inspirational meetings with my clients. Or, for a change of scenery, I can head out to the rooftop terrace, which has lovely views of the city.

6AM My alarm is set for 7am, but I let my system decide when it’s time to get up, which, most mornings, is at 6am. I sneak out of bed and set up camp in front of the computer to sort through emails, proposals, contracts, etc. with a clear head.

2PM When I don’t have a lunch meeting booked, I go home and cook lunch for Laura and myself, and then take the dogs for a walk. We take turns walking them, depending on our work schedule; it’s all about organisation, but definitely worth the effort to have these lovely creatures around.

7AM I jump into my training gear and take my two dogs, Samantha (Miniature Pinscher) and Priscilla (Greyhound), for a walk in the Eixample, where we live.

3.30PM I pick up where I left off with Performance-related tasks, but also check any requests for projects for The Muro Lab, contacting clients and artists.

7.45AM By the time we get home, my wife, Laura, has already filled up the dogs’ breakfast bowls. While they eat, the two of us enjoy a freshly pressed green juice. Then we go down to the local bar for a strong coffee.

6PM Depending on the day, this time is put aside for meetings with my business partner, business coaching, and networking events for SWEA Professional Barcelona or another networking event.

8.15AM After coffee, I say bye to Laura and head to the gym across the street.

9PM We have a very busy social life, and go out for dinner and drinks with friends at least three times a week. On the days we stay home, Laura is the chef. The menu is always organic food and wine—we’re fortunate to have several eco stores around the corner and the Ninot Market a few blocks away.

9.30AM After a good workout, I have my daily portion of porridge, then I’m ready to kick some ass! My days never look exactly the same—I either have clients arriving for a corporate event or congress, a product launch, or I’m going on a site inspection or business trip. Right now, my main focus is on the

12AM Bona nit!

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TRAVEL

Castles of CATALUNYA A FAIRY TALE EXCURSION By Rachel Huffman

edieval castles dot the land of Catalunya, all at one time or another populated by feudal lords, beautiful maidens and valiant soldiers—characters who now only exist in history books and fairy tales. While there are many ways to discover the region’s vast history, none are quite as enchanting as hunting down one of these formidable castles and hearing the legends that transform them into more than stone and mortar.

Castell de Miravet turismemiravet.cat Nestled in the southern tip of Catalunya, on the leafy banks of the River Ebro, is the village and castle of Miravet. To reach what is considered the largest fortified complex in the region, you have to board a ferry, the last of its kind in the territory of Terres de l’Ebre. Although a medieval tax is no longer charged for the crossing, the journey—powered by the river’s current alone—is an experience in and of itself. The old town of Miravet was founded by the Moors, who made great use of the crag in this spot, and was then rebuilt by the Knights Templar, who transformed it into an impregnable fortressmonastery after its conquest in 1153. Castell de Miravet subsequently became one of the main centres of Christian power on the Iberian

Peninsula. It remains one of the best examples of Romanesque, religious and military architecture of the Templar order in the Western world. Another draw for visitors are the clay pottery workshops throughout the town of Miravet, a tangible affirmation of the area’s most ancestral tradition. The forms, which include jars, pitchers and vats, and the glazes have Islamic influences. There are eight running workshops in the ‘Raval’ quarter where you can see masters of the craft at work, making pieces by hand using potter’s wheels. One such potter is Ferran Segarra i Vives. Although he’s retired now, he worked in the town for 34 years, mastering ‘the art of mud’. His shop in the village of Miravet, Ceràmiques Ferran (ceramiquesferran.com), is run by his son today and still sells a wide range of Catalan ceramics, which are certified fet a má (handmade). Segarra also has a private museum above the shop, which holds more than 1,000 antique Spanish ceramic items and opens to the public upon request.

Castell de Montsoriu montsoriu.cat Situated in the stunning natural landscape of the Montseny massif is what some have deemed ‘the greatest Gothic castle in Catalunya’. A visit to Castell de Montsoriu gives you the chance

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Photo courtesy of Aviotech Castell de Miravet

Castell de Montsoriu

to journey back in time to the 14th century when, thanks to its unbeatable vantage point at the top of a 600-metrehigh hill, the castle became the military headquarters of the viscounts of the House of Cabrera during a period when the dynasty was one of the most powerful in the region. With a guide, learn firsthand what military and civilian life was like in one of the most impressive fortresses of the Crown of Aragon. There are a number of legends associated with Montsoriu Castle. It’s said that at exactly midnight, the ‘Red Lady’ of the castle peeks her unkempt head out of the top of the ivy tower. In her right hand she carries a burning lamp, and in her left hand, a hunting horn. After she blows the horn three times, her call is answered and a little while later a knight dressed in black appears, riding a horse of fire. He climbs up the tower, whisks the Red Lady onto his horse, and they disappear into the darkness of the night. It’s also believed that outside the castle walls, three snakes live in one of the caves of Montsoriu. Each snake carries a diamond in its mouth, which they only set down when drinking from the nearby spring. The lucky individual who can snatch one away at this precise moment would be richer than he or she ever imagined.

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Castell de Sant Ferran lesfortalesescatalanes.info Following the negotiation of the Treaty of the Pyrenees— signed to end the 1635-1659 war between France and Spain— the Fort de Bellegarde, located in the modern-day French commune of Le Perthus, passed into the hands of the French state. To replace the lost bastion and protect the Spanish region of l’Empordà from possible future invasions, it was decided that Sant Ferran Castle would be built on a hill in Figueres. The first stone was placed on December 13th, 1753. In order to erect its towering ramparts as part of an incredible exterior defence system, a workforce of nearly 4,000 people toiled away every day for 13 years. Today, Sant Ferran Castle is considered the largest bastion fortress in Europe, covering a total area of 550,000 square metres (about 10 times as big as Windsor Castle in the UK). The parade ground is one of the main attractions, below which are four large cisterns that can be toured by rubber dinghy— together they are able to hold up to 40 million litres of water. The grounds also include stables housed in an imposing hangar with space for 450 horses. Open to the public since 1997, Sant Ferran Castle is located less than two kilometres from the Dalí Theatre and Museum, allowing for a complete day of aesthetic fun.

Castell de Peralada museucastellperalada.com The history of the current Peralada Castle dates back to 1285, when the first fortress of the Viscounts of Peralada was destroyed during a war with France. Rather than restoring the original, the viscounts decided to build a new fortress outside the walls, to avoid spatial limitations. Jumping ahead to 1875, the Counts of Rocabertí refurbished the medieval military fortress, converting it into a French-style château, and designed an extensive park next to their new palace. Lush landscapes, a French rose garden, a modest lake and a noteworthy white stork colony can be found in the park, thanks to a recovery project that was launched in 1995. Since then, the colony has grown to include 32 nests and 66 newborn storks in 2014. There’s something for everyone here. Wander around the Carme Church and its cloister, built in the typical Catalan Gothic style, or visit the wine museum located in an old cellar, where the wines were first produced in the 14th century. The winery is still in operation and visitors can learn about (and taste) Peralada Castle’s most traditional and cherished cava, Gran Claustro. The Museum of Glass and Ceramics (Museu del Vidre i la Ceràmica) is also on the grounds of the castle. Considered one of the the most important glass museums in Spain, it contains more than 2,500 ancient pieces of glass, the origins of which range from Pharaonic Egypt to the 19th century. Of particular interest are the 18th and 19th-century cups and saucers that were invented by Mancero, the Viceroy of Mexico, used to drink thick hot chocolate. Finally, the library is one of the castle’s most famous cultural features. With checkerboard tiled floors and warm wooden shelves, the library houses, among other things, one of the best private Cervantes collections in the world, with around 5,000 works, including more than 1,000 different editions of Don Quijote in 33 languages. Make a weekend out of your trip to this castle and book a room at Hotel Peralada (hotelperalada.com), where you can receive the royal treatment at the hotel’s wine spa.

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DAY TRIP

El Turó del Tagamanent Silence is golden on this hilltop plateau By Paul Cannon

igh above the Congost Valley on the western slopes of Montseny, the fortified basilica of Santa Maria crowns the rocky pinnacle of El Turó del Tagamanent. Only an hour’s drive from Barcelona or a two-hour hike from the village of Aiguafreda, the turó (hill) forms part of a wonderfully deserted and underexplored plateau called El Pla de la Calma (plain of calm), which offers some of the finest (and quietest) hiking trails within 50 kilometres of Barcelona. The views over the Vallés region, Congost Valley and plain of Osona—with a glimpse of Montserrat’s serrated turrets to the west and Montseny’s hump-backed ridges to the east—are said to have inspired the first flutterings of patriotic sentiment in the chest of a young Jordi Pujol (the ex-President of the Generalitat), when he hiked up to this spot at the end of the civil war. The church, a Gothic re-vamp of the original Romanesque building, sits at the edge of a grassy meadow on a craggy escarpment. Uninhabited for centuries, the complex is currently being rehabilitated by the Diputació de Barcelona.

About Montseny and Pla de la Calma Renowned for its eco-diversity, the Parc Natural del Montseny combines craggy peaks of up to 1,800 metres with beech, fir and oak forests and sub-Alpine meadows. Pla de la Calma, crossed only by bumpy dirt tracks, is the range on its western fringe. Vehicles up on the Pla de la Calma are particularly rare, so it’s the perfect terrain for biking and hiking enthusiasts in search of a big panorama. That it’s so close to Barcelona only makes its remoteness even more gratifying.

Getting there If you’re driving and are in no mood for taxing exercise, take the C-17 from Barcelona, exit at Tagamanent and, following signs for Pla de la Calma, take the winding road up to the car park at the foot of the summit. From there it’s just a 15-minute climb on foot. If you don’t have your own transport and want to earn your views (and lunch at the excellent Masia El Bellver nearby), you can catch the R3 train from Plaça de Catalunya to Sant Martí de Centelles (one hour), where you can hike the GR5 trail up the mountainside via the neigbouring village of Aiguafreda. It’s a moderately easy two-hour climb through pine and oak woods to the top of Turó del Tagamanent, which has an altitude of 1,055 metres.

Lunch In a meadow at the foot of the Turó escarpment, just a 15-minute walk away, is Masia El Bellver. Run entirely on renewable energy, it offers a buffet for €35 featuring local, organic dishes, such as wild boar cannelloni and garlic-roasted rabbit. You can also enjoy free access to the Museu L’Agustí, an ethnological museum that provides a portrait of traditional life in a masia through the eyes of the Agustí family, who have farmed the land on the Pla de la Calma since the 12th century. Like the restaurant, the ethnological museum can only be visited on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, and on public holidays (10.30am-4.30pm). Prior bookings are necessary.

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Photos courtesy of The Greenhouse

RESTAURANT REVIEW

THE GREENHOUSE vegetable-focused fine dining By Sam Zucker

nside the sleek and timeless Hotel Pulitzer, hanging plants and oversized lamps fill The Greenhouse, a new restaurant concept from successful Australian chef Damien Bolger. Chef Bolger, former owner and founder of Poblenou favourite Mercat Cuina Fresca, has continued on his quest for seasonal cuisine that focuses on fresh vegetables from local markets. Vegetables play the starring role in nearly every dish on the tasting menu at The Greenhouse. Duck breast, oxtail and the everpopular pluma cut of Iberian pork are present, but these dishes are an exception to the rule. In fact, Bolger’s goal for the coming months is to move even further in the direction of vegetable-driven fine dining. That’s not to say, however, that the food at The Greenhouse is strictly vegetarian. In the nine-course tasting menu (€60), there were several meat-free dishes. The salad of tomatoes with fermented strawberries and basil, for example, was a light starter with a good deal of finesse, though the tomato could have done with a few more days on the vine to reach full ripeness. The other savoury vegetarian dish was a gently cooked, single stalk of white asparagus whose impressive girth was spread with a pine nut purée. Beside the asparagus was a salt-cured egg yolk that gave the dish an extra creamy, but almost sticky, character. Finished with a light dusting of dehydrated beet salt, this was an enjoyable and unique way to present a classic Spanish ingredient. The initial bite of the meal was actually a spoonful of tartar de buey; hand-cut morsels of raw ox meat that was dry-aged 45 days, mixed with ripe figs, draped in grated egg yolk, and garnished with extremely fragrant and fascinating

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mandarin fronds. These fronds were a personal first for me, and an excellent addition to a dish that would have been less interesting without that citrus punch. My favourite plate of the night also happens to be a star item at The Greenhouse, a dish that Bolger assures will enjoy a long tenure amidst frequent seasonal menu changes. The simply named ‘brassicas’ is actually a dish in which nuance abounds. Depending on the season—or even the week—the dishes could, in theory, be a mix of kale, cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and/or any of the other crunchy, cruciferous vegetables that make up this pungent family. Slightly charred and cooked to perfection, with tenderness but a bit of crunch, our little pile of cabbage, kale and broccoli was tossed with ruby-red grapefruit segments and drizzled with fennel oil. Served in a shallow bowl, the brassicas lay surrounded by a pool of mussel emulsion, silky smooth and thickened with coconut oil. A few leaves of fresh mint and micro coriander were the final garnish, making for a dish that really did reveal a new dimension with each bite.

I had never seen a Jerusalem artichoke so big in my life, nor had I tasted one prepared in such a creative way The meal continued in a positive direction with the arrival of a freakishly-long tupinambo (Jerusalem artichoke), slowly roasted before being glazed in an ‘XO’ sauce that was rich and packed with flavour, but clearly adapted for the local palate. Very light on the dried scallops and dried shrimp compared to the more traditional Chinese recipe, this ultra-reduced mahogany sauce was a more exotic take on veal demi-glaze, and a satisfying accompaniment to the toothsome root vegetable. Bolger dotted the log-like tuber with date purée and placed thin rounds of kumquat on top as a refreshing foil to the mouth-coating glaze. I had never seen a Jerusalem artichoke so big in my life, nor had I tasted one prepared in such a creative way. The final savoury dish of our meal was a risotto-style rice, though the word ‘risotto’ was conspicuously absent from the menu. The term is all too often thrown around recklessly by anyone with short grain rice and a hunk of Parmesan, so it’s best to simply call it rice and leave it at that. This rice was thick and creamy and cooked al dente, as it should be. The finishing touch was a hint of vanilla and a small heap of fresh crab filaments. The variety of rice used in the dish comes pre-smoked from producers in the famous Catalan rice-growing region of the Delta de l’Ebre. Our first dessert mirrored one of our first dishes of the night, with more fermented strawberry and basil, followed by delicious, delicately-coiled churros, sprinkled with sugar and served with a petite bowl of haba tonka ice cream. All in all, I think that The Greenhouse is a wonderful concept—a restaurant that focuses on vegetables while not shying away from meat and seafood—and I look forward to seeing the direction that Chef Bolger’s kitchen takes as the seasons progress.

MORE INFO

Bergara 8 T. 93 463 6116 hotelpulitzer.es Lunch: Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, €18.50 for three courses Dinner: Tues-Sat 7.30pm-11.30pm ✪✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

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Photos courtesy of El Sifó d’en Garriga

QUICK BITES

MORE INFO

Consell de Cent 308 T. 93 215 7215 Mon-Fri 8am-midnight Sat-Sun 9am-midnight

El Sifó d’en Garriga a pre-dinner aperitivo IN THE EIXAMPLE

By Sam Zucker

ne of my favourite restaurants in Barcelona, La Cuina d’en Garriga, recently opened a snack bar and vermutería just next door to its bright red facade on Consell de Cent, between Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya. With walls clad in shining white tiles below exposed brick, and lined with vintage soda siphons and tall mirrors, the aptly-named El Sifó d’en Garriga is a non-stop kitchen specialising in ‘simple’ dishes. However, these snacks, tapas and sandwiches have much more to them than meets the eye. The Girona-born owner, Helena Garriga, comes from a family of soda siphon producers, and this legacy has greatly shaped the decor and cuisine of her new eatery. El Sifó d’en Garriga was conceptualised as a place for a drink and a snack with friends, or perhaps a pre-dinner aperitivo for those awaiting their table at La Cuina d’en Garriga. The fresh and vibrant hummus of green peas, tahini, cumin and mint was exceptional, spread on slender toast rounds and crunchy slabs of coca de cristal bread rubbed with ripe tomatoes and drizzled with fragrant olive oil from Tarragona. The origins of its gourmet products are extremely important,

hence the proud presentation of Nømad coffee, Baluard and Forn Sant Josep bread, Cinco Jotas jamón, and Zallo tuna, among others. Of the 30 or so dishes on the menu at El Sifó, 12 are cured meats and cheeses, while olives, crisps and anchovies make up much of the aperitius section. The larger platillos include a unique salmon tartare that is served in a shallow bowl, surrounded by an intensely citric and thick vinaigrette of kumquat, mint and basil, which exploded with racy acidity and heady herbaceousness in the mouth. All in all, apart from toasted bread and the six grill-pressed sandwiches, the majority of the menu is served cold or room temperature. There are some modern sandwiches, but I prefer the classics. The pepito of thin, grilled steak is a must, as is the sandwich of spreadable sobrassada with honey and fresh cheese, a heavenly combination of sweet and salty. There are various vegetarian options on the menu, and perhaps the most delicious (after the pea hummus) was the falafel. Instead of frying the mix of chickpeas and herbs as in a traditional falafel, here they make it into a purée and spread it on seed-studded bread with vegan soy yoghurt and preserved lemon rind; just one of many pleasant surprises at this little locale with big character.

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food tales

Every great local food business has a story, that’s what makes them unique and special. Foodie tour guide Misty Barker explores some of Barcelona’s tastiest hidden gems.

MORE INFO

Sombrerers 23 casagispert.com Tues-Fri 9.30am-2pm, 4pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2pm, 5pm-8.30pm Closed Sun-Mon

Casa Gispert M

y favourite movie growing up was Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory (1971)—the Gene Wilder version of course. The nostalgic feelings it evokes are the same that I experience each time I visit Casa Gispert, hidden in the small streets of the Born. Inside, this is a place where tradition, history and love are the main ingredients. Colmados (meaning ‘full of things’) were historically important shops for locals, although sadly they’re now a dying breed. Specialising in overseas products and, historically, food from the Spanish colonies, this museum-esque store is crammed full of all things tasty and interesting. Glass jars line the shelves, filled with intriguing looking nuts, sweets, herbs and spices, chocolates, coffee and anything else you could possibly need. Casa Gispert has been roasting nuts with oak wood since 1851, making it the oldest nut roaster in Europe. The long, narrow space is reminiscent of the Cave of Wonders, where you can pick up ingredients that are generally hard to source, from saffron to tigernuts. Sticking firmly to its roots, the current owners ensure it’s still run exactly how it was when it first opened its doors. Stepping into the shop is like travelling back in time, with its beautiful rustic interior and woven wicker baskets, there to be filled with whatever you fancy. My favourite product? Catànies. A sweet delicacy, typical in Catalunya, made from marcono almonds. The nuts are candied, covered in white chocolate and dusted in cocoa.

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RECIPE

Potaje (serves four)

his is one of those recipes that could keep you going all winter long; all year long, for that matter. I make it regularly in big batches (my suitcase coming from Spain to Morocco is often jam-packed with the necessary chorizo), freezing leftovers in portions of various sizes: just for me when I’m too lazy or tired to cook, or family-sized for when friends drop by unexpectedly. Serve it with a glass or two of cheap, but not nasty red wine—this is not the sort of food to crack open stellar vintages for—a green salad, maybe some crusty bread, and you’ll find as simple suppers go, it’s not too shabby.

IN SEASON

OCTOBER: Persimmons, chirimoya (custard apples), apples, pears, root vegetables

INGREDIENTS 2 onions, finely chopped 4-5 cloves garlic, sliced 2-3 small dried cayenne peppers, crumbled 4-5 chopped tomatoes (or a can is fine) 2 cups pardina, or similar, lentils

1 cooking chorizo, sliced 1 cup red wine Several cups of water Salt and pepper

Method 1. Sauté the onions, garlic and cayenne in olive oil over a medium heat until soft and gooey. 2. Remove onions and add chorizo to the same oil. Cook until just turning brown at the edges. 3. Add tomatoes and cook until they begin to break down. 4. Throw in lentils and stir well to combine. 5. Add wine, stir, and then enough water to come about an inch above the lentils. 6. Season well with salt and pepper. 7. Bring to the boil then simmer for about an hour, until the lentils are tender and you have a thick, not watery stew (add more wine or water as needed). 8. About 10 minutes before the end of the hour, check seasoning. 9. Serve in bowls and accompany with crusty bread, salad and lashings of wine.

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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NEFW &D

Food Drink

& IN

LA Bodega flamenca4EIXAMPLE Soak up the authentic tablao atmosphere next to the Sagrada Familia, and experience the passionate rhythms of a live flamenco show at La Bodega Flamenca. Choose from one of their set menus, paella dishes, or order freshly made Andalusian tapas, like shrimp fritters or eggplants with syrup à la carte. Sit back and let the soulful combination of live music and pulsating footwork wash over you for a quintessential Spanish night out.

Discount for Metropolitan readers

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

NEWD IN F&

Roger de Flor 230, 08025 T. 93 461 4104 Restaurant: Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-12am. Dinner Show: 6pm and 8.30pm www.labodegaflamenca.com

Totora - Eixample

Meneghina4BORN

Authentic Peruvian recipes with cuttingedge cuisine awaits diners at Totora. The restaurant offers a gastronomical journey of Peru with classics such as cebiche, ají de gallina (spicy chicken stew), and the lomo saltado (sautéed beef tenderloin), alongside new, creative dishes concocted by head chef Pablo Ortega. Diners can enjoy Ortega’s menu, infused with tastes of the sea, or can linger at the restaurant’s long bar to enjoy bartenders cultivate tasty cocktails, including the Peruvian classic, pisco sour. Menu of the day available from 17.50.

Located on a quaint side street close to the convent of Sant Agusti in El Born, Meneghina offers an exciting and innovative combination of Italian and Catalan flavours, tempting desserts and an extensive selection of wines in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh seasonal produce, which changes on a daily basis.

Tiradors 2 I T. 93 119 2221 hola@meneghina.es I www.meneghina.es www.facebook.com/meneghinas Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm

Còrsega 235, 08036 Tel. 93 667 4372 Mon-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11.30pm

Ándele - Eixample Part of the Ándele Group, this new, modern restaurant in Barcelona’s Eixample district offers an authentic, traditional Mexican cuisine. It combines traditional recipes with new, continuing to surprise and delight diners, whilst ensuring high quality ingredients for every dish. The restaurant also features an attractive bar, where you can enjoy a full selection of tequilas, mescals and various premium distillates used to create delicious cocktails. Average menu price 20 and lunch menu available from 12.90. París 147. 08036 Tel. 93 277 8766 | www.andele.es info@andele.es Mon-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

Fonda España4 Barri GÒtic Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

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BlackLab Brewery4 BARCELONETA Blacklab have a huge range of American Style craft beers made on premises with a Minnesotan brewer. They experiment with their brews like a beer lab. They have four beers all year around, 16 rotating seasonals. Their beer is poured directly from the tanks and you won’t find anything fresher. Their kitchen is non stop and doesn’t close during opening hrs. They serve tasty American Food with Asian touch. Beer tour and beer tasting with their brewers every Sunday at 17h. Also available for big groups at any day.

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

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BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Indian / Tandoori BAR CENTRO4 EIXAMPLE

NICE SPICE4POBLENOU

Bar Centro offers a unique experience when you indulge in one of their burgers. 40-day aged beef of Galician ‘Vaca Vieja’ cooked on the grill is a must-try. Eight craft beer taps go hand in hand with their gastronomic proposal. Don’t miss all four versions of their pulled pork, the homemade nachos, the chilli or the bravas! Everything is handcrafted.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food ,which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.

Casp 55. 08010 Metro Tetuan/ Urquinaona Tel. 93 192 5255 www.barcentrobcn.com barcentrobcn@gmail.com Mon-Wed 1pm-11pm Thurs-Fri 1pm-11.30pm Sat 8pm-12am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Open everday 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

D9 Bar4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has a night for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan Govinda (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded over 30 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

amaltea4EIXAMPLE

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

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A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables and homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.90, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.80. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

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loidi resTaUranT4 EixamplE

Tap de sUro4EixamplE

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.

Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm

Malpaso4EixamplE This restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend. Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

chicken shop & dirTy BUrger4 BaRRi GÒtic Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com

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FOR THE BEST BARS, CAFES, AND RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE A-Z DIRECTORY

9/27/17 4:56 PM

HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel conﬁdent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers, and is also certiﬁed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040

Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY

Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the ﬁelds of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, enuresis (bed wetting) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offer specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic ﬂoor disorders.

The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of surgical dermatology and venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efﬁcient and accessible care, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics.

Vilana 12, Ofﬁce 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Ofﬁce T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working in the health industry and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a ﬁve-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme. ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464 / 93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

9/28/17 10:49 AM

FREE CONSULTATION

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their extensive experience, allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in dental aesthetics, and orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults. She is certiﬁed by the Invisalign system.

Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Platinum Provider

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY

Goldie Uttamchandani LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH

Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual proﬁle. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The ﬁrst consultation is free.

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certiﬁed Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary ﬁrst session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness.

READER OFFER

M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certiﬁed orthodonist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertiﬁed periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technologica advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care. Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a foreign country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of ﬁrst-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

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50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT

Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

9/28/17 10:49 AM

Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST

Barcelona Quiropractic - CHIROPRACTOR

Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difﬁcult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session.

Barcelona Quiropractic and its professional team have been serving the Barcelona community since 1995. They value quality service, efficiency and dedication, delivering the best results in the shortest time possible. The team provides a professional, yet friendly and family-oriented environment, catering to a wide range of patients. They aim to promote the integration of chiropractic into your lifestyle, to maintain health and wellbeing. Contact them for more information. Pl. Urquinaona 7, 08010 T. 93 412 3433 M. 601 059 849 info@barcelonaquiropractic.es www.barcelonaquiropractic.es

M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net

Yoga con Gracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will ﬁnd a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com

READER OFFER

Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA Bikram Yoga has two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, their international team brings over 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, Pral, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es

Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre, located in the Sants district, is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com Craniosacral Institute - OSTEOPATHY The institute provides services in Craniosacral Osteopathy, SomatoEmotional Release, and Massage Rebalancing, working holistically. The Institute delivers over 22 years’ experience of individual sessions to adults, children and babies. M. 689 786 519 / 639 775 218 www.craneosacral-panizo.com/en/ www.terapias-adam.com/en/

Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reﬂexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

READER OFFER

Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST & COACH

Symmetry Pilates - PILATES

Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information

Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Most of the day we are sitting down at our computers, or in our cars. But, have you ever asked yourself whether you are sitting properly? Most back pain starts from the way we sit and from sitting for too long. Learn to sit correctly and your quality of life will improve. Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the beneﬁt is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this trendy new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.

Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

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READER OFFER

República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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Oliver Dawson CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.

Georgina Weinstein VOICE COACH Georgina offers “Tone of Voice Coaching” to speakers, teachers, executives, singers, coaches, and anyone who wants to improve their abilities to communicate clearly.This includes techniques to achieve more volume, pitch, stage presence and conﬁdence while practicing texts, songs and/or subjects that interest the student. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their conﬁdence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English.

Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com

Tàctum - HAIR SALON

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Located in Gràcia, this friendly and welcoming salon has everything you need to feel special. They work together with clients to create a look that reﬂects their individual style and personality. They are experts in curly hair, hair colouring and above all the use of progressive vegetable hair dye, which harnesses the purity of water. They can also advise you on the cut that best suits you.

10% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Torrent de L’Olla 85 (Metro Joanic) T. 93 217 9316 tactum@tacum.cat Tues-Thurs 10.30am-8.30pm Fri-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm www.tactum.es

Heaven - MASSAGE Ready to feel fantastic for spring? Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!

FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS

M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com

Lovecycle - FITNESS LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating ﬁtness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!

FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING HEALTH & BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Doctors - Dentists - Psychologists Chiropractors - Therapists Yoga - Pilates Reﬂexology - Massage Fitness - Hair salons

Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

Barcelona Accounting BUSINESS SERVICE Need help with your small business finances? Barcelona Accounting can create an efficient financial system for a start-up or existing business, convert you to a modern cloud accounting solution, organise and/or update your bookkeeping, manage your compliance and run financial analysis to help grow your business.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

AFT IURE LEGA L ABOGADOS LAWYERS RECHTSANWÄLTE

READER OFFER

M. 670 405 727 info@bcnaccounting.com www.bcnaccounting.com

AFT IURE LEGAL -

Spain Accounting-

LAWYERS

TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES

Albert Forment offers legal services to the Barcelona community in English, German and French. He specialises in civil, criminal and tax law, but extends his practice to other areas, such as family, administrative, employment, and real estate. Drawing from a wealth of experience, Forment ensures reliability and clarity for clients, and holds sincerity and honesty at the core of his services. Contact him today for a free introductory in-house consultation.

Qualiﬁed UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service

M. 616 614 764 T. 93 321 11 55 btforment@gmail.com www.aftiure.com/

Contact David Cook on M. 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

READER OFFER Klev & Vera - LAW FIRM

Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE

This ﬁrm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. It understands that starting a business in a foreign country can be daunting, especially in Spain, where the system is complicated and taxes can be a hindrance. This is where their experience in advising international clients how to set up businesses in Spain can help you make smarter decisions, saving you thousands of euros in the long term.

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

They have a multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: Real Estate, Business Set Up, Spanish Residency, Family Law, Litigation, Tax Planning. Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com

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Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

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NIE Barcelona

Corsa International -

- BUSINESS

DRIVING SCHOOL

NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efﬁcient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the conﬁdence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

Master Cerrajeros

PWN Barcelona - NON PROFIT PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer Mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certiﬁed virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.

Locked out? Master Cerrajeros are English-speaking specialists who provide emergency lock replacement services at competitive rates, 24/7. They work with locks for metal shutters, automatic systems, safety doors, security systems, fences and balconies, access control and more.

www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/

M. 607 886 622 www.mastercerrajeros.com

Act Habitat - ARCHITECTS

Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT

They can help…

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women. • Approx. 200 members from 20+ countries. • As a social club that supports local organisation, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and networking & promotional opportunities. We help women thrive in Barcelona.

Create your perfect living or work space. Get the most out of your investment. Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment. Deal with paperwork and permits. Manage the building works and costs. Choose the best ﬁrm for the job. Coordinate with the neighbours. Get in touch for more information.

Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com

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LOCKSMITH

Supported charities 2016 - 2018 membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

Handyman - HOME SERVICES

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

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BCN Seguros - INSURANCE This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, English and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Gabor Arato REMOVAL SERVICES Gabor can help with any removal work no matter the size, providing transportation and removal services for anyone located within Barcelona or just outside. He offers competitive prices of only €15 per hour. Contact now for more information and special offers.

Yacht Point Barcelona - SAILING SCHOOL Yacht Point RYA Training Centre is a leading provider of online navigation theory courses & sailing tuition in Barcelona. They offer: - Online navigation theory courses & Sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. Their courses are suitable for complete beginners to advanced sailors. ‘We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!’

M. 633 596 188 gabsmudanzas@gmail.com

T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com http://yachtpointbcn.com/en/rya-training-centre/

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

#mrsqdesignstudio Coccinelle - Home Services

Mrs.Q Design Studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q designs bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Their designs are inspired by watercolour paintings merged with contemporary design. If you would like a custom painting, designed especially for you, they can create a design that you’re sure to love. Visit their Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.

Coccinelle is a reference in the domestic staff sector, that’s why more than 700 families have trusted in their services. You can arrange everything from the comfort of your own home. Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation

Pau Claris 151 M. 93 010 9758 Info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com

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mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

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Oak House - SCHOOL

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a ﬁrm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualiﬁcations to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualiﬁed native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and ﬁnding a place to live.

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com

CiberVirreina - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal ﬁles and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com

Connecta Languages - TRANSLATORS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualiﬁed linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact them today and say goodbye to language barriers.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

Yan Pekar - PHOTOGRAPHER Photography for corporate events and portraits. Yan creates meaningful photography based on his ability to see beyond the obvious. His engaging photos capture key moments in a discrete way. Based in Barcelona. Working worldwide. • Back-up kit. • Next day delivery. • Guaranteed results under low lighting. • Reliable. Responsible. On time.

M. 635 296 600 contact@yanpekar.photography www.yanpekar.photography

FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING BUSINESSES IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Lawyers - Accountants - Language schools Business schools - Computer technicians Real estate - Insurance - Electricians Plumbers - Graphic design Driving schools - Sailing schools Babysitting services - Translators International schools - Printing services

M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our free classifieds

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN

SAM SAYS... Take the professional path that reflects your values Dear Sam, In my 38 years I’ve probably had four or five different careers. I’ve owned and currently own businesses, worked in retail, studied medicine (didn’t finish), worked in advertising, PR, and dabbled as a sommelier. As much as I love the diversity of my experiences, sometimes I look at people who have worked for 10-15 years in the same profession and envy the expertise they’ve accrued, the network they’ve built and the stability they have. I mention this because I was granted a scholarship recently to study a Master’s in political science at a well-known university and I don’t know what to do. Part of me thinks it’s an opportunity that I shouldn’t pass up, and the other part thinks I should just stick with what I’m doing now (running a tour business) and stop changing jobs. Any tips on how I can stick with one thing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! Constantly Changing

Hi Constantly Changing, I read an article a few weeks ago about the concept of portfolio careers. Rather than focusing on one profession throughout life, today many people have different careers over the course of a lifetime. This is the first thing that came to mind when I read your note, and although you are asking how to stick to one thing, I would first challenge you to ask yourself if that is truly what you want. You seem like someone who likes to explore, experiment and go after new ventures. Do you genuinely want to keep to one profession or do you think that’s what you’re ‘supposed’ to do? You use the word ‘should’ several times. I’m an adamant believer that there are no ‘shoulds’ when it comes to how you live your life. My question to you is: What’s pushing you to think that you need to stick with one path? What will it do for you? It’s a lot easier to figure out the how, if you understand the why behind what’s motivating your decisions. The other question I would like you to think about is: What could be better? We often spend too much time focusing on what’s not working. However, if you’re looking to make positive changes, think about what would move you forward in life when it comes to what you want. What would embarking on this Master’s degree do for you? Does it fit in with where you want to go and, more importantly, is it in sync with your values? One tangible exercise that I’ve mentioned before in this column, is to define your values. It’s a lot easier to make decisions if you know what drives you and what’s important to you. I often give people a list of 100 values and ask them to narrow them down to ten, and then to five. These are things that are important to you, not that you think should be. The idea is that these values will act as your sounding board and as your baseline. Once you’ve shortened the list to four or five, take your dilemma and see if the actions you want to pursue line up with your values. If not, it’s potentially time to pause and rethink your next steps.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www.blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence.

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OUT AND ABOUT INTERVIEW

All Those Food Market Teatre Nacional de Catalunya. SEPTEMBER 17th

Maila Iammartino, Guillem Maggi Sullá

Jenny Teng, Angel Sanz Correa

HOLA BARCELONA! COCkTAIL FIRA DE BARCELONA. SEPTEMBER 14TH

Cris Kristofits, ESTHER JONES, EIMEAR O´NEILL, Melissa Grossman

ANDREA MORENO, KATRINA LOGIE, ELENA MCCARTHY, GUS WÜSTEMANN

GUIRI BUSINESS QUINTO QUINTA. SEPTEMBER 20TH

Siren FRIGGEMEIES, max HORSTINK

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

ANNETTE PACEY, RICHARD CARDWELL

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