Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 250 by Barcelona Metropolitan

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 250 · NOVEMBER 2017 ANDY WARHOL P.37

IN THE CITY 06 08 11 12 15 16 19 46

New in town Streetlife Five things A place of my own History Best of Shopping Photo essay

WHAT’S ON Paul Cannon reports on the situation faced by Barcelona’s illegal street vendors

32 36 40 42

25 GET SMART

WORKING LIFE

20 REPORT: TOP MANTA TRADE

Music Art Misc Calendar

53 Startup of the month 54 Business etiquette 56 A day in the life

The Smart City Expo World Congress comes to town

26 TRY HARD

TRAVEL

Rugby union in Barcelona

58 Legacy of los indianos 62 Castellet i la Gornal

44 BARÇA LEGEND

FOOD & DRINK

Proﬁle of Hungarian-born football superstar, László Kubala

64 Restaurant review 66 Quick bites 68 Recipe

48 ORGANIC VINTAGE Eco-conscious winemaking in Catalunya

METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Founder Esther Jones Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Carol Moran Contributing Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Sales Director Jalil Alui Client Care Manager Aminah Barnes Account Executives Mauricio Valadares Ortiz, Alvi Zolizzi Digital Analyst Richard Cardwell Office Manager Marina Piegari Editorial Assistants Garry Gallon, Lottie Hanwell, Abelia Leskin, Natalia QuirosEdmunds, Charlotte Stace Design Assistant Valeria Kalinova Contributors Misty Barker, Paul Cannon, Eimear Corrigan, J.S. von Dacre, Catherine Howley, Helen Iles, Ulises Izquierdo, Priyankaa Joshi, Sam Mednick, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Illustrator Ben Rowdon Photographer Tash McCammon Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

LOTTIE HANWELL A student of English literature and Spanish at Durham University, UK, Lottie arrived in Barcelona in September as part of the Erasmus programme. Whilst attempting to improve her Spanish, she is working as an editorial assistant at Metropolitan, and has recently created her ﬁrst blog in collaboration with a friend. When not writing, she can be found sampling the city’s many gastronomical delights, spending too much in clothes shops or sitting quietly with her nose in a book.

HELEN ILES Helen is an independent ﬁlmmaker and writer with a passion for community and sustainability. A proud native of Wales, she has been living abroad since 2013—three years in Melbourne, Australia and now in Sant Pere de Ribes. In addition to freelance creative work, she teaches mindfulness and facilitates inner and outer change using a combination of meditation, yoga and bodywork. Her website (livinginthefuture.org) hosts a series of ground-breaking documentaries on the theme of sustainable living.

ULISES IZQUIERDO Originally from Valencia, Ulises lived in England, Ireland and Switzerland before moving to Barcelona three years ago. An early fascination with American literature and the unique British music culture led him to pursue a degree in English, followed by a master’s degree in journalism. Having worked in a broad range of peculiar jobs, from video games tester and chauffeur to car rental agent, he now works as a freelance journalist, focusing on what he loves most, writing about sport.

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IN THE CITY

new in town COOKIE HEAVEN Cookona. rosselló 160.  COOKONA.COM The first cookie dough shop in Barcelona, Cookona brings a touch of sugary indulgence to the Eixample. Founded by German-born Sabrina Settinger, she opened shop in September after working as a freelance cookie deliverer for a year. “After trying my first ice-cream cookie sandwich in New York I was hooked, and my dream was to open up my own place in Barcelona,” she explained. Cookona offers a total of 50 cookie recipes, including red velvet and nutella, as well as homemade ice-cream, ice-cream sandwiches, cupcakes and cookie pizzas. Currently, Settinger’s favourite recipe is the banana bread cookie dough, unique to Cookona. She makes both gluten-free and vegan cookies, and all are free from preservatives and made with free-range eggs.

OLD MEETS NEW We Bistrot. ronda sant Pere 70.  WEBISTROT.COM This grocery store-turned-restaurant is the newest addition to the Fort Pienc neighbourhood. Inspired by the Latin concept ‘locanda’, meaning a place to stay and a bite to eat, entrepreneurs Lorenzo Fragola and Fernando Pradells renovated the ground floor shop unit into a bistro to accompany the small boutique hotel upstairs, We Boutique, which they opened four years ago. Velvet-upholstered chairs, marble tabletops, wooden shelves stocked with old-fashioned tins, and traditional tiled flooring hint at the restaurant’s former life as a grocery store dating from the 19th century. Stars of the Mediterranean-themed menu include tuna tartare, lamb ribs and tortilla with jamón ibérico, while weekend brunch options include smoothies, granola and their much-loved eggs and avocado toast.

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HUMBLE PIE the Pie shoPPe. Pàdua 87-89.  THEPIESHOPPEBCN.COM A joint venture by husband and wife Gary Clark and Natalie Vanderpool, from Glasgow and West Virginia respectively, this Sant Gervasi shop specialises in fresh, made-to-order pies from both sides of the Atlantic. After meeting in Barcelona six years ago and later relocating here, the pair eventually decided to act on their mutual longing for the home comfort of a simple, hearty pie. As well as traditional savoury British pies and their sweet American equivalents, the restaurant has a variety of craft ales that change regularly. Those in need of a meat fix should opt for the classic steak and ale pie, or if it’s a sweet tooth that needs satisfying, you can’t go wrong with the syrupy goodness of the delicious pecan pie. With locally sourced ingredients and freshly made pastry, pie lovers need look no further.

ZEN HAVEN agoyoga studio & ConCePt store. ausiàs MarC 8.  AGOYOGA.ES Just a stone’s throw from Plaça Urquinaona, this bright and airy yoga space exudes a sense of calm and relaxation. Welcoming everyone from complete beginner to advanced practitioner, Agoyoga aims to define and refine each student’s personal yoga journey. The studio embodies a holistic approach to healthy living, encouraging both personal well-being and an eco-conscious lifestyle. Agoyoga also sells environmentally conscious brands—including an ethically sourced botanical skincare range, Wisdom Cares, and the environmentally-friendly yogawear brand Shambhala Barcelona. Certified teachers from diverse backgrounds enhance the intimate yet cosmopolitan feel of the studio, ready to train each individual and direct their journey. Weekly sessions of Ashtanga, Rocket and Vinyasa yoga are available, as well as monthly activities that allow individuals to explore the practice in depth.

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IN THE CITY

streetlife

PASSATGE DE LA CONCEPCIÓ

Eat around the world on this lavish block between Rambla de Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia

No 5

ELJ APO NÉS

With an open kitchen and origami adorning the walls, ELJ APO NÉS is set in a minimalist space with long wooden dining tables. “All our food is of the highest quality and takes around 10 to 15 minutes to prepare,” said manager Emilio Fernandez. “Our speciality dishes are the black cod, the dumplings, and the salmon and tuna sashimi.” The restaurant also has a Japanese barbecue, where chefs prepare kushiyaki (grilled skewers of meat) over natural charcoal, and a mini oyster bar for those in the mood for something special. grupotragaluz.com

N 5 o

Tragaluz

Located above ELJ APO NÉS and below a glazed ceiling, this three-storey restaurant offers sunlit lunches and fine dining under the stars. Interior designer Sandra Tarruella selected warm hues, terracotta pots, silk-cushioned chairs and beautiful table settings to create an elegant backdrop to the Mediterranean menu. “The most unique thing about the restaurant’s layout is that, in order to reach their table, customers have to walk through the middle of the kitchen, where they can see dishes being prepared,” said hostess Mar Exposito. Two standout dishes are the Girona beef sirloin with manchego cheese cream, and the Puglian burrata with Barbastro tomato and basil pesto. grupotragaluz.com

No 10 Mordisco

The third in this passatge’s trio of restaurants by Grupo Tragaluz, Mordisco has an airy, greenhouse feel thanks to the leafy plants, sweet smelling flowers and tall windows that make up the back wall and roof of the dining area. Priding itself on its commitment to delivering fresh and healthy food, restaurant director Martin Segura said, “Nothing on the menu is pre-cooked. We make everything to order.” Although salads, meat and fish are available, Segura revealed that the most popular dish on the menu is the open-faced omelette with mushrooms, black sauce and traditional Bhutanese potatoes. For customers with limited time, there’s a store at the front of the restaurant that sells menu items to take away, as well as wines and gourmet canned foods. grupotragaluz.com

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No 12 Boca Grande

Boca Grande and its adjoining upmarket cocktail bar, Boca Chica, serve up a lesson in class and sophistication. Interior designer Lázaro Rosa Violán uses dim lighting, Persian carpets and vintage photos to create an extravagant space with a clandestine ambience. There’s even a stag’s head and elephant tusks hanging upstairs in the bar, adding an old-world touch to the establishment. The design is not the only thing here that exudes luxury, however. The menu, with dishes such as grilled Mediterranean red prawns and langoustines, bluefin tuna tartare, scallops with Iberian ham, and French oysters, succeeds in delivering an exclusive fine dining experience to match the decor. bocagrande.cat

(3 =39 ;%28 83 0)%62 %2( ,%&0%6 74%2-7,# Spanish courses for adults in Poblenou

No 13 Petit Comitè

Opened eight years ago, the second restaurant of Michelin-starred chef Nandu Jubany specialises in combining the traditional flavours of Catalan cuisine with contemporary presentation. “Nandu loves Catalan cooking and experiments with the best seasonal, local products to give each customer a gourmet experience,” said hostess Claudia Bru. The menu reflects the chef’s passion for his homeland with personalised dishes such as coca with duck liver and caramelised apple, stewed veal ossobuco with aubergine, grilled red shrimps from Blanes, and sea cucumber rice. petitcomite.cat

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DELE preparation Small groups

General courses Intensive courses

Specialized courses (Art, History Cinema...)

One-to-One lessons Business Spanish

Llull 187, 08005 T. (+34) 668 80 46 89

info@olympialanguages.com www.olympialanguages.com

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FIVE THINGS

GIVE BACK There’s no time like the present to lend a hand to those in need

MÚSICA POR LA PAZ

This non-profit organisation runs 11 centres across Spain. Their objective is to ensure underprivileged children have equal access to educational resources. Through the programme, kids aged seven to 12 have free access to after-school courses, which provide academic support and allow parents to work longer hours without additional childcare costs. The group also hosts activities and excursions, and is always on the lookout for volunteers to help run sessions. Volunteers are encouraged to come with their own ideas for fun, innovative classes and activities. musicaporlapaz.org

ESPERANÇA

As the months get colder, life gets harder for those living on the street. Esperança works to make their situation a little more bearable. Run entirely by volunteers, the group distributes food and clothing to the homeless on Saturday and Sunday evenings. Donations are welcome, but Esperança emphasises the difference that interactions between volunteers and the homeless can make to help them avoid social isolation. Sometimes all anyone needs is someone to talk to. Sign up via Facebook. facebook.com/groups/esperancabcn

AMICS DE LA GENT GRAN

STREET CHILD ESPAÑA

Street Child works to provide aid and education to the children of West Africa and Nepal. Its innovative programmes, such as the Family Business Scheme, aim to ensure that the help provided is sustainable and long-lasting. Street Child España welcomes volunteering in all forms. In Barcelona, volunteers can get involved in day-to-day operations—including event planning, translation, accounting, graphic design, and social media and marketing—or participate in the annual fundraising marathons in Sierra Leone and Nepal. This initiative isn’t just about running a marathon; it encourages participants to travel to these countries and spend time visiting projects, getting to know the staff, seeing the country and meeting its people. street-child.es

LLIGA PER A LA PROTECCIÓ D’ANIMALS I PLANTES

Humans aren’t the only creatures who need looking after. The Lliga per a la protecció d’animals i plantes de Barcelona shelters animals that have been abused or abandoned, until they are relocated to a new home. Volunteers at the centre can take on different tasks, such as dog walking, petting cats, delivering meals, or washing and grooming the animals. protectorabcn.es

Often a marginalised section of society, the social exclusion that elderly people can face frequently leads to loneliness, which intensifies other health problems. Running for 30 years, Amics de la Gent Gran initiates friendships between volunteers and the elderly. Volunteers can visit their new companions in their home or at a residence, or simply attend a monthly meeting between volunteers and elderly people for a short chat. Volunteers often find they gain just as much from this experience as those they’re there to help. amicsdelagentgran.org

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A PLACE OF MY OWN

Photos by Tash McCammon

IN THE CITY

LONDONER AMY LINCOLN DISCOVERED A PASSION FOR UPCYCLING AND FURNITURE RESTORATION WHILE RENOVATING HER POBLE-SEC APARTMENT

The apartment’s eclectic style is inspired by time spent in London and Mumbai

my Lincoln’s love affair with Spain started when she was a child and enjoyed regular family holidays in Granada. Enamoured of Spain’s rich culture and the intricate Arabic architecture, Amy decided to study Spanish at university and later moved to North India, where Arabian-inspired architecture is prevalent. After many years of working in fashion journalism in London and Mumbai, Amy was ready for a change and opted for Barcelona as her new home. “It’s funny how much of an influence my childhood holidays have had,” she mused. Accustomed to the dynamic city life of London and Mumbai, Amy was looking for a vibrant, culturally diverse area to settle in when she arrived in Barcelona two years ago. “I immediately fell in love with Poble-sec because it has lots of personality and a strong sense of community,” she said. Once Amy realised that Poble-sec was the barrio for her, it wasn’t long before she stumbled upon her current two-bedroom apartment. Although the Seventies decor and dated fittings left a lot to be desired, Amy spotted the potential. “I’ve decorated and furnished several homes over the years, so I felt I could take on the challenge,” she explained. “I didn’t have the luxury of time or a big budget so I had to rely on my own vision, which was daunting.” She decided to gut the entire apartment and reconfigure the layout to make better use of the modest space and expose the original features. Amy recalled ripping up the flooring to find that only five original hydraulic tiles remained. “I felt I owed it to the flat to use them but I couldn’t think how,” she said.

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When she finally moved in four months later, Amy discovered La Capgirada (Ricart 26), a local furniture restoration workshop, which inspired her to learn how to revamp old furniture herself. Her first project was an old wooden chest found in a junk shop for a couple of euros. With help from Jaume, the owner of La Capgirada, Amy set the hydraulic tiles into the top of the chest and transformed it into a statement piece which sits proudly in the guest bedroom.

“I love the idea of changing an object’s function”

When it comes to her interior design style, Amy complements the apartment’s Modernista elements with an eclectic mix of pieces she accumulated during her time in Mumbai and London. “I like my home to look unique, so when the inevitable Swedish bargain does sneak in, it’s well-hacked,” said Amy. Throughout the apartment, there is an eye-catching blend of colourful cushions and throws made from saree fabric, ornate Indian lanterns, Moorish tile patterns and quirky artwork. “I hate tasteful beige and, like Diana Vreeland, I believe ‘too much good taste can be boring’!” laughed Amy. Taking in the vibrant space, it’s fair to say that Amy’s Poble-sec home has character and soul.

Amy’s passion for upcycling is evident throughout the apartment. In the living room, an old chair, which Amy found on the street, has been stripped and re-upholstered to give it a new lease of life, and the bookshelves, which she found in a vintage furniture shop, are made from three old doors mounted on a cast iron frame. In the kitchen, two old sewing machine bases have been joined together to create a dining table. In the same vein, Amy has transformed her grandmother’s kettle, which dates from the Twenties, and two salvaged mannequins, into lamps. “I love the idea of changing an object’s function,” she said. What started out as a hobby has evolved into a mini business for Amy, who now spends two evenings a week at La Caprigada making bespoke pieces from unwanted items found on the streets. If you’ve made yourself an interesting home from home, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com

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HISTORY

SEAWEED LOCATION: COLUMBUS MONUMENT

By Catherine Howley

AN ODE TO THE VERSATILITY OF THE CANNABIS PLANT AT SEA

or visitors arriving to Barcelona by sea, the first figure to greet them is Christopher Columbus, standing aloft a column of nearly 60 metres and pointing eastwards, allegedly towards his birthplace, Genoa. Located at the bottom of Las Ramblas, the monument was erected in 1888 for the Universal Exposition. Designed by architect Gaietà Buïgas, with the collaboration of local artists and sculptors, the column pays homage to the explorer’s life and expeditions. Despite the popularity of the iconic landmark, few are aware that a decorative line of cannabis leaves is included in the monument’s decor. Located on the upper part of the pillar, the leaves are in no way hidden, although they went completely unnoticed for decades until chronicler Lluís Permanyer highlighted their significance. Did Columbus smoke marijuana? Do the leaves form part of a secret message included in the design by Buïgas in 1888? The answer is much simpler and forms part of the history of navigation. As one of the most versatile plants in the world, cannabis was a key material both before and during navigation. Due to the strong consistency of the hemp fibre, the ropes and sails of the fleet were made from this part of the plant. Hemp was also suitable because it is both unaffected by salt water and resistant to damp conditions. Oil extracted from the cannabis plant was used during the voyage to keep the lamps on board alight, and seeds of the plant were also kept in abundance. Known to be highly nutritious, the seeds were stored as a back-up food supply in case of shipwreck, as well as also being used for the cultivation of cannabis at the point of destination. Suggestions have also been made that cannabis may have been used for its medicinal value by Columbus and his fellow expeditionists, although this has never been proven. The plant was a necessity in maritime navigation and the inclusion of the leaves on the Columbus monument is testament to that. There is no doubt that when he set sail for the New World in 1492, the explorer did so with cannabis on board, and some even argue that it was Columbus’ arrival to the Americas that introduced the plant, and subsequently marijuana, to that part of the world.

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BEST OF

SAY CHEESE BARCELONA’S BEST PIZZERIAS VALUE AUTHENTICITY AND FLAVOUR

Pizza Circus nou de lA rAmblA 40

For a quick fix, duck into Pizza Circus in the Raval. A takeaway shop with the vibrancy of a miniature circus tent, those in the know flock here for hefty slices priced at just €2.50 each. With a host of Italian chefs constantly churning out fresh dough, this pizza joint is all about fast, good quality pizza—and lots of it. For meat eaters, the Rucola pizza, with its mix of rocket, Parmesan and jamón serrano, is a wellexecuted staple, while multiple vegetarian versions boast an array of roasted vegetables, porcini mushrooms and gorgonzola cheese. facebook.com/pizza-circus

N.A.P.

AvdA. de FrAncesc cAmbó 30 & bAluArd 69 At N.A.P. (Neapolitan Authentic Pizza), the focus is on basic, traditional Italian pizza—just as the name suggests. Manager Giancarlo joked, “When people ask for pineapple on their pizza it makes us want to cry.” Central to N.A.P.’s approach is its attention to the dough: a low concentration of yeast, a long fermentation process and well-sourced Italian ingredients ensure that the pizza is light and easily digestible. The menu, much like the restaurant itself, is small and well-formed, with all the classics you would expect from an authentic Neapolitan pizzeria. Simple yet delicious. facebook.com/nap.pizzeria

Sports Bar Italian Food Ample 51-53

Sports bars aren’t normally celebrated for their food. This one, however, has a reputation as one of the best pizza places in the city. The Italian owners’ evident passion for football is rivalled only by their enthusiasm for making pizza, and a wood-fired oven, incidentally shaped like a giant football, produces pizzas with a delightfully chewy crust. Opt for the mascarpone and bacon pizza—a well-balanced blend of salty and creamy flavours—or the Siciliana, a combination of succulent roasted aubergine and Italian smoked cheese. The menu is vast and the pizzas come in individual or sharing sizes, making this a great spot for a lively meal with friends. facebook.com/sportsbaritalianfoodbcn

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Madre Lievito llAcunA 1

The secret to this restaurant’s masterful pizza is in its name: lievito, meaning sourdough. As one would expect, it is the pizzas’ thin base, made using yeast imported from Naples and flour ground in a mill in Rome, that earns Madre Lievito its reputation as one of Barcelona’s best pizzerias. In recipe as in price—pizzas start from just €5— this restaurant stays true to pizza's Neapolitan origins as a simple, inexpensive meal that fed the masses. Don’t be deterred by the lack of cheese on the house speciality, the Marinara—a modest blend of tomato, garlic and oregano lends itself beautifully to the subtle flavour and delightful consistency of the sourdough base. madrelievito.com

Frankie Gallo Cha Cha Cha mArquès de bArberà 15

There’s no shortage of seats in the huge and impressively furnished warehouse where Frankie Gallo Cha Cha Cha is located. With murals of explosive colour illuminated by neon lights, the space not only lends itself well to Instagram, but produces some of Barcelona’s most innovative pizza creations. As suggested by its decidedly hotchpotch name, eccentric combinations, such as pecorino and pear, smoked salmon and salted fish roe, and truffle carbonara, differentiate this pizzeria from its local counterparts. A three-day fermentation process ensures a soft and springy sourdough base, making for a slice of culinary experimentation that doesn’t skimp on the fundamentals of good pizza. facebook.com/frankiegallochachacha

La Bella Napoli

mArgArit 12-14 & villArroel 101 Italians living in Barcelona often point their visiting friends and family to this authentic Neapolitan restaurant, with two locations in the city. Complete with convivial chatter, bustling waiters and rustic pizza worth a few extra euros, La Bella Napoli embodies an authentic slice of Naples. The owner, Naples-born Rafaelle Iannone, moved to Barcelona over 10 years ago to share his passion for authentic Italian cooking with the Catalan capital. The pizza menu is extensive, with the humble Margherita and Quattro Formaggi appearing alongside more elaborate recipes, such as the restaurant's namesake pizza, which includes asparagus, fresh mushrooms and egg. labellanapoli.es

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SHOPPING

A NIGHT IN SLIPPERS €12.99 OYSHO Pg. de Gràcia 13 oysho.com

OVAL CANDLE €9.99 ZARA HOME Diagonal 490 zarahome.com

VALENÇAY CHEESE €8.60/kg WINE BORGOÑA ALIGOTÉ €9.50 FROMAGERIE CAN LUC Berga 4 canluc.es

EMBRACE THE COSY DANISH CONCEPT OF HYGGE BATH SALT €7.95 THE LIVING STONE Petritxol 4 the-living-stone.com

TRUFFLES €50 CHOCOLAT FACTORY Balmes 391 chocolatfactory.com

MUG €25.50 MATÍMAÑANA Princesa 28 matimanana.bigcartel.com

EL NAN CASTELLER €35 JUGAR X JUGAR Av. de Gaudí 39 jugarxjugar.com

BLANKET €49.95 EL CORTE INGLÉS Pl. de Catalunya 14 elcorteingles.es

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REPORT

BEHIND THE

BLANKET FOR YEARS, BARCELONAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ILLEGAL STREET VENDORS HAVE SOLD PIRATED GOODS TO SURVIVE WHILE WEARING A CLOAK OF INVISIBILITY. NOW A SERIES OF INITIATIVES GIVES THEM NEW HOPE By Paul Cannon. Photos by Tash McCammon

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PROFILE OF A MANTERO

very year, hundreds of undocumented African immigrants come to Spain with hopes of a better life. Many cross the open sea in precarious crafts, aiming for the Spanish mainland or the Canary Islands—this August alone, over 1,000 people were rescued from vessels off the coast of Andalusia. Hundreds of others perish on the way. Another route, less dangerous but often as difficult, is to fly to a European airport on a temporary student or working visa, purchased at great expense from local mafia. It’s a modern-day odyssey that takes them far away from dependent families—children and wives, as well as mothers and fathers. The physical border is rarely the final obstacle. Another (invisible) border can marginalise immigrants for years to come in their new home: a combined administrative, judicial and legal no man’s land with an unofficial motto of ‘contener y rechazar’ (contain and reject) that can absorb any efforts made to integrate. After successfully completing the costly and dangerous journey from their home countries, they arrive in cities such as Barcelona and find that, in stark contrast to EU citizens, they have no voice, no rights and few prospects for work or advancement. Without any alternative, many resort to working illegally as a mantero—a ‘blanketman’, or unlicensed street trader—selling anything from fake Adidas trainers to Ray-Ban sunglasses or Gucci handbags on a blanket unfurled in the street. In Europe, itinerant commerce is viewed as a criminal activity, as is the falsification of commercial goods. This situation has led to fear and anger in an immigrant community with a precarious economic and legal foothold in the city. At street level, it has led to open conflict between manteros, who view itinerant trade as their only lifeline, and the Guàrdia Urbana, instructed by the city council to remove them from the streets. For many years, the Ajuntament has been embarrassed by the presence of manteros on Barcelona's most iconic walkways. Shop-owners and big-name brands are also, for obvious reasons, less than enamoured of the ‘top manta' trade, and have been increasing pressure on the council to do something about it. In the summer of 2015, this led to Mayor Ada Colau adopting critical measures; a combined operation by the Mossos d'Esquadra, Guàrdia Urbana and Policia Portuaria to saturate Port Vell and other zones with agents, as well as the initiation of a media campaign to discourage consumers from buying black market goods. The Ajuntament’s official objective is ‘delocalisation’ of trade. This summer also saw the introduction of ‘gestores de la calle’ (street managers) whose role is to dissipate potential conflicts.

MODOU IS A SENEGALESE CHEF WHO ARRIVED IN BARCELONA IN 2004, AND WORKED AS A STREET VENDOR FROM 2004 UNTIL 2007

The son of a welder, one of 12 brothers and sisters, Modou started his working life in a Dakar kiosk selling sandwiches and drinks. But, as the son chosen to support the rest of the family, he was desperate to work in Europe. So, when an acquaintance said he could arrange his journey, he jumped on board. It cost €3,000 to get the necessary paperwork—a fake 30-day work permit as a sailor—and €600 for his flight to Barcelona. “Back in 2004, there were very few African immigrants here. Almost all of them had good studies, many had been to university. But without papers they could not get jobs. So they either worked as labourers for long hours and little pay, or they worked as manteros.” It certainly wasn’t the kind of job Modou had imagined when he was back in Dakar. But, after a convoluted job search that had taken him to La Coruña and Tenerife, among other places, he was fast running out of money. “Most people I spoke to tried to put me off the idea of becoming a mantero, probably because they didn’t want new rivals coming in to share the trade.” “Back in those days, we used to go to a café next to FNAC in Plaça de Catalunya at midday. We would have a tea and hide our wares under the tables. Then we would go and sell in the square from midday to 1.30pm, when the 007 (the Guàrdia Urbana‘s street agents) would make their circuit down from Passeig de Gràcia. We were well-organised, we never stayed longer than was necessary. And selling on the street was not a crime back then. The police could confiscate your goods and give you a fine. But they could not arrest you. I sold CDs and DVDS at first. Later on, sporting goods. On a good day we could earn up to €400.” However, the situation changed in 2005, with a new immigration law introduced by José Luis Zapatero’s government. It decreed that all immigrants who had spent more than six months in the country, were in possession of a one-year work contract and had no criminal record, must have their papers regularised. Those who failed to meet these conditions would be arrested and deported, as part of a crack-down on illegal immigration and the submerged economy.

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With this new law, Modou’s need for a work contract reached a new level of desperation. Many of his friends were arrested and either deported, or prosecuted. Some ended up in jail, where they remain today. Encouraged by a friend, he approached a shady businessman known as ‘El Español’, who was offering to regularise immigrants’ papers by giving them working contracts under the guise of a sham business. Modou paid €1,500 to El Español and was told he would receive his permit within a week. His permit, like those of approximately 300 other immigrants, never materialised. To make things worse, thanks to the new law and a more hostile approach from the Guàrdia Urbana, selling on the streets was becoming more difficult. “The Guàrdia Urbana now came after you, once they knew the law was on their side. They knew how much money some of us were making. They followed and intercepted us on our way home. ‘Give us your money,’ they would say, ‘and you can go’. I always said, ‘No, take me to the station’. Then they had to do it by the book and report the money they took from us.” “They also wanted to find out who was making the big money; who the big boss was, ” Modou continued. “For a while they thought it was me. ‘Konate’ they called me. It was the false name on my documents. They followed me for a long time. Everywhere I went, they were waiting for me. They would detain us and question us, threatening us, calling us bad names.” Modou pointed to stitches on his forehead received during one of these interviews. So who were the real bosses? He laughed and shook his head. “Clever people. The ones who know how to do business. But it is not a mafia like you hear in the media. Everyone helps each other out.” In all, Modou worked on the streets from 2004 until 2007. During his time as a mantero he received dozens of fines. In the end it was the fines that landed him two spells in prison. The first term was in 2007 and lasted only 15 days, thanks to an unpaid fine of €2,900. The second time, a year later, he was sentenced to 18 months in jail. “I had already paid the fine, but there was no arguing. I was sent to the Modelo (the now-defunct prison in Eixample) among serious offenders—drug-dealers, violent people. My only crime was trying to work. My wife had come over from Senegal and our daughter had just been born. After six months in the Modelo, my lawyer got my sentence changed, because my daughter had been born in Spain. I was transferred to Brians (a penitentiary near Martorell) and was allowed to visit my family on weekends.” During his prison sentence, Modou was finally registered on Spain’s social security system for the first time. The reason? “The prison warden told me to sign up to one of their programmes, so I joined the library and worked in the prison workshop, where we made plastic pieces for a factory. We worked for four hours a day and earned €10. As I was officially earning money, I was taxed. That,” said Modou, unable to hide the resentment behind a forced grin, “is how I got onto the social security system.” After leaving prison, Modou found his feet and left the mantero trade behind. He trained as a chef, found work, and now has his papers in order. But his experiences still haunt and embitter him. He believes that being a non-EU immigrant means “you are denied both the means to work and the rights of a normal citizen”. This is at the heart of why so many immigrants from countries such as Senegal, Sierra Leone and Mali end up selling falsified goods on Barcelona’s streets. After 13 years in Barcelona, Modou has become integrated, largely thanks to his own efforts.

Ensamblaje, meaning ‘assemblage’, is the term used by Inspector Carlos Manchón, the Policía Nacional’s chief of technological crime, to describe the process of manufacturing and falsifying the black market goods sold on Barcelona’s streets. Unpatented replicas of brand products, known as white copies, are manufactured abroad and transported to Spain without their brand logos. According to Manchón, many of these unpatented goods end up in large industrial units in Badalona. The police can do nothing at this point, as without the logos, the goods do not infringe any copyright laws. Manteros then buy the logos separately and attach them themselves, immediately becoming susceptible to the law. A reform of the Penal Code in 2015 means that any person selling falsified products can now be punished with between six months and two years in prison. Together with the updated Ley de Extranjería (which states that anyone condemned to a oneyear prison sentence can have their residency revoked and face deportation), and the deployment of an increasingly heavy-handed Guàrdia Urbana, this has created what Alba Cuevas, the director of the equal rights group SOS Racisme, called “a highly dangerous cocktail for human rights”. In 2015, this ‘dangerous cocktail’ led to a watershed moment; the death of a 50-year-old Senegalese mantero called Mor Sylla, who had lived in Spain for 15 years and worked as a builder before the economic crisis. On August 11th, 2015, the Mossos d’Esquadra paid him a surprise visit at his home in Salou. They were investigating a falsification racket. Although it had not been proven that Sylla was a member of any organised group, under the new legislation he could be arrested, imprisoned and deported. In the ensuing confusion, a panicked Sylla fell to his death from the balcony. This tragedy, together with a number of public confrontations between beleaguered merchants and the police, including a rockthrowing incident in Plaça de Catalunya the same year, brought about an organised response from Barcelona’s mantero community. Sick of being criminalised by the authorities, and misunderstood by the media and general public, it was time for the manteros to find their voice and act. The Sindicato Popular de Vendedores Ambulantes was formed last year. This union of street-sellers aims to fight ‘against racism and institutional violence’, and promote immigrants’ rights. As well as providing a voice for the mantero community, the syndicate has launched an audacious venture that might alleviate its problems in the future: the creation of its own fashion label.

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Unveiled at Fundació Antoni Tàpies in July this year, the 'Top Manta' label takes the mantero’s ordeal and repackages it as a brand. The idea is to replace the big-name brands with the Top Manta logo on the same white copies. Eventually, the hope is to sell these products at authorised market stalls. There might even be a Top Manta store, if the syndicate can find the right backing.

Top Manta offers an alternative, socially-conscious narrative, with ‘Survival is Not a Crime’ as its slogan

Whereas the swooshes and stripes of Nike and Adidas sports goods are marketed as the apex of aspirational individualism, Top Manta’s logo is crude but hauntingly significant—a cross between a kayak and a blanket. It offers an alternative, socially-conscious narrative, with ‘Survival is Not a Crime’ as its slogan. It’s a demand for dignity and sympathy, both a recognition of the harsh reality facing undocumented immigrants and a message of hope. "What was, for a long time, an act of discrimination—when they called us ‘top manta’—isn’t anymore,” explained spokesman Aziz Fayé. “Now we have taken the concept and dignified the phrase. For us, it’s a term of solidarity, struggle and vindication.” And Top Manta is not the only ambitious mantero enterprise in the pipeline. In March 2017, the Ajuntament backed the launch

of an initiative by the members of an association of Senegalese ex-manteros called Diomcoop. The project offers a platform for members to sell African arts and crafts, jewellery, recycled goods, outlet fashion and gastronomical goods at markets around the city. Ababacar Thiakh (one of the 15 founding members) explained that the objective of the initiative is to “change the way society views us and show that behind the blanket there are values and dignity”. However, it also requires “a change in our own perceptions and those of other manteros…to believe that there are real opportunities out there for us”. Thiakh called this process “emerging from invisibility”. Thus the significance of the name Diomcoop. ‘Diom’ is a Wolof word meaning ‘courage’ or ‘inner strength’. Not all manteros, however, will want to join initiatives like Diomcoop or Top Manta. Despite the tougher laws and risks involved, the appeal of the black market trade is glaring; it’s extremely lucrative. Many of the manteros who work each day in the Port Vell area have little interest in selling Top Manta products. Ahmed, a 30 year old from Dakar, who has spent six years in Barcelona without being granted residency, shook his head and said, “It is for the television, for the newspapers. But it does not change anything.” He pointed at the Nike trainers spread out on the blankets. “This is what people want.” Mantero trade is still going strong, much to the disapproval of business owners. La Plataforma de Afectados por el Top Manta is an organisation representing some 500 businesses claiming to be punished by illicit trade. Its president, Fermí Villar claimed that the mantero trade is growing out of control. Andema, the Spanish Association for Brand Protection, backs up these claims with statistics, claiming that Spanish industry loses over €7 million each year as a direct consequence of illicit trade, in turn resulting in a loss of 67,000 jobs. The search has only just begun for viable solutions to what SOS Racisme’s Alba Cuevas called “a structural reality faced by our cities". But Ababacar Thiakh of Diomcoop, for one, is optimistic. “Our community has much to offer. It is a question of unlocking potential and changing attitudes. Then we can flourish here.”

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THINK TANK

MORE INFO

Smart City Expo World Congress November 14th-16th Fira de Barcelona - Gran Via Three-day visitor pass €100

THIS MONTH, THE SMART CITY EXPO WORLD CONGRESS COMES TO TOWN

y 2050, over 66 percent of the world’s population will live in cities. As people flock to urban areas, mostly for economic reasons, cities face huge challenges in dealing with their ever-growing number of citizens. Around the globe, from small cities to sprawling metropoles, the issues are surprisingly similar, and encompass affordable housing, climate change, traffic congestion, and how to provide quality educational and health services. Cities are also at the heart of innovation and, in their quest to find sustainable solutions to the above problems, they are harnessing new technologies in outstandingly creative ways. Although we are often unaware of it, technology is already tracking and controlling many aspects of our urban lives, from traffic lights and parking to park maintenance and rubbish collection. The success of the technology relies on how well those that run the city understand and work with the residents themselves. Effective smart city action should not just be about imposing technological solutions on the masses, but about social inclusion and the empowerment of communities. Awareness, understanding, and collaboration between all the city’s stakeholders—private enterprises, residents, local administration and the research community—is key to successful smart city policies. The Smart City Expo World Congress caters to another important element of the smart city revolution: collaboration between cities and leading players in the movement. It’s both a meeting place for those pioneering change and a platform to showcase projects and exchange ideas to help find new solutions in collaboration with other cities that are tackling similar issues. The conference revolves around eight central themes: Governance, Sustainability, Mobility,

Circular Economy, Safe Cities, Society, Economy, and Data & Technology. Over three days there will be a number of talks from professionals in many fields, who will share inspirational ideas and groundbreaking research. These include figures from the public and private sectors, such as Jeff Merritt, Director of Innovation of the City of New York, Adriana Krácová, Mayor of Prague, and Hamadoun Touré, Executive Director of the Smart Africa Alliance. Keynote speakers include arts activist and founder of the Better Block Project, Jason Roberts. Known for his energetic presentations, in his talk ‘Building Better Communities from the Bottom-Up’, Roberts will be looking at how we can drive change in our communities, moving past unproductive committees, low community engagement, and outdated regulation. Another keynote speaker is Robert Muggah, research director and cofounder of Igarapé Institute. In ‘From Fragile to Resilient Cities’, Muggah will examine the biggest threats facing cities around the world today and how they can build resilience to these threats into their design. Muggah draws on breathtaking new data visualisation techniques to show how well-designed cities are humanity’s most realistic hope for survival. The Expo will welcome representatives from 650 cities, as well as over 400 thought leaders. For people involved in technology, city design and community, there will be networking events, as well as side events and activities. There will also be plenty of opportunities to take a closer look at innovative technology. See interactive presentations at the Smart City Plaza and visit the exhibition area, which will host more than 600 stands demonstrating new technologies that are making a positive impact on the lives of millions of people.

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KICK INTO T TOUCH SEVEN TEAMS, PASSIONATE PLAYERS AND THE BACKING OF FC BARCELONA: RUGBY IS GAINING MOMENTUM IN THE CITY By Ulises Izquierdo. Photos by Eduardo Rodriguez Rois

his summer, FC Barcelona received €222 million for the transfer of Neymar Jr. and quickly reinvested €145m in Ousmane Dembélé, a 19-year-old player who came to fill the space left by the Brazilian. While these gigantic operations were taking place, however, another set of players were ready to kick off their pre-season with significantly less media attention. FC Barcelona’s motto més que un club (more than a club) is evident through the many sports it embraces under one crest. Rugby is one of them, and this year Barça’s rugby squad is competing at the highest level of Spanish rugby union—in the División de Honor—for the fourth consecutive season. The sport arrived in the region in the early-20th century, and is thought to have been originally introduced by French and British workers, although it didn’t become popular until some years later. Baldiri Aleu i Torres, a Catalan studying in Toulouse, is credited with bringing the sport to Barcelona when he returned home from university and founded the Unió Esportiva Santboiana—the oldest team in Spain—based in Sant Boi de Llobregat. Consequently, rugby terms in Spain are expressed in French; lineout is ‘touche’, scrum is ‘melée’ and forward pass is ‘avant’. Rugby in Barcelona has gained momentum and fans over the last 20 years. Although few people involved in this ‘thug’s game played by gentlemen’ make any money—the sport is primarily amateur in Spain, with only a handful of semi-professional clubs and players—local clubs are slowly developing infrastructure.

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From left: Cornella vs BUC; Carboners vs CN Poble Nou; Hospitalet vs CEU

The city’s seven teams share four rugby fields, and entrance for spectators is generally free. In 2016, the French Rugby League—one of the most influential in the world—chose Camp Nou to host its final, traditionally held at the Stade de France in Paris (which was unavailable due to the UEFA Euro 2016 football championship). Paco Peña is responsible for rugby at FC Barcelona. He described the role it has within the club and how the club’s brand is encouraging the growth of the sport. “FC Barcelona Rugby is an amateur section, but the club understands the potential it has, and gives its full support to keep growing,” explained Peña. In the last few years, he has seen the academy grow from little more than 20 young players to nearly 300. “Having the support of FC Barcelona gives us the confidence to keep expanding. I believe that having the club behind us helps not only us, but local rugby as a whole.” Barça’s first victory of the season came in their second match, at home to CR La Vila—a Valencian club based in La Vila Joiosa. The same coastal journey is regularly taken by other Catalan teams competing in the Spanish second division, the División de Honor B, which is divided into three groups by region: north (A), east (B) and centre/south (C). Group B includes six Catalan teams, five Valencians and one Aragonese, so it is a well-trodden path. Below the Spanish second division, lower leagues are organised within each region, rather than nationwide. Catalunya has three divisions in which Barcelona-based teams play against neighbouring towns, such as L’Hospitalet, Sant Cugat or Santboiana. But no matter how far teams have to travel to play a match,

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RUGBY TEAMS IN BARCELONA TEAM

FOUNDED

STADIUM

LEAGUE

WOMEN’S TEAM

FC BARCELONA RUGBY

1924

La Teixonera

División de Honor Heineken

Catalan League Kopparberg

CLUB NATACIÓ POBLE NOUENGINYERS

1931

Camp de rugbi La Mar Bella

División de Honor B

Catalan League Kopparberg

BARCELONA UNIVERSITARI CLUB (BUC)

1929

La Foixarda

División de Honor B

Catalan League Kopparberg

CEU RUGBY

2001, when Rugby Bonanova and CDUR merged

Esports UB Stadium

División de Honor Catalana (Catalan first division, below Division de Honor B)

Catalan League Kopparberg

GÒTICS RC

1984, after RCD Espanyol removed amateur sections

La Foixarda

División de Honor Catalana

Catalan League Kopparberg

QUÍMICS RC

1987

La Teixonera

División de Honor Catalana

Catalan League Kopparberg

INEF RUGBY

1977

La Foixarda

Catalan second division

División de Honor

(CN Poble Nou)

practically all the players involved in Spanish rugby, from the very bottom of the last division up to Barça’s rugby squad, share the same motivation to face 15 rivals on the pitch every weekend: they do it out of love for the sport. Despite this, those in charge of rugby in Barcelona believe there is a need to professionalise the sport. Jordi Homs is the president of Rugby Barcelona, an association that includes all seven teams from the city and works to raise the sport’s profile. They are currently looking for the financial support needed to move forward.

Practically all the players involved share the same motivation. They do it out of love for the sport

“There’s not a lot of support from the institutions. In Barcelona, the city council has recently pledged more than €3.2 million to athletics over four years. Rugby doesn’t even get one percent of that,” claimed Homs. “Rugby is a centenary sport in Catalunya and it has missed many opportunities to modernise and develop. We are working hard to get it known and appreciated, albeit with little economic support.” Both Homs and Peña agree that there is a big jump, both

economically and competitively, between divisions in Spain, and even more so when compared with other countries. Sometimes clubs have to make a real effort to pay the expenses required to play at the highest level. Travel costs are higher when playing in the División de Honor and the División de Honor B, and a lack of infrastructure in individual clubs makes it difficult to improve the ability level. In an attempt to overcome these issues, CN Poblenou became the first foreign team to be admitted into an English league from 2006 to 2009, when they joined the Greene King Super Premier League in Hertfordshire; they did it to cut costs. Flying to England every other weekend was cheaper than playing on home soil, thanks to the explosion of low cost flights. Furthermore, the experience of playing against an English side was beneficial, as the level of competition was generally higher. In spite of all the challenges rugby faces in Barcelona, the sport is on the up, and women have played an important role in rugby’s recent surge in popularity. All seven teams in the city have a female squad, with INEF Rugby playing at the highest level in the women’s División de Honor (also known as the Liga Guerreras Iberdrola). The success of women in the sport is most evident at an international level—the women’s Spanish rugby union team, known as Las Leonas, are still behind countries such as England or New Zealand, but have appeared five times in the Rugby World Cup since 1991 and are currently ranked 10th in the world. The men’s national squad, on the other hand, is ranked 19th and have only appeared once in the Rugby World Cup, in 1999, although this did mark a turning point in terms of the sport’s popularity. Since then, the number of male players in Spain has almost doubled, rising from approximately 15,000 in 2000 to 27,361 in 2016. One inch at a time, those involved in the world of rugby in Barcelona are pushing forward, dreaming of the day when one of the city’s teams will play a match at Camp Nou.

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THE WATERBOYS (NOVEMBER 19TH) 31. On Cover.indd 1

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON

THE BEST OF THE MONTH AHEAD

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music SHAKING IT UP

SHAKIRA. PALAU SANT JORDI. Pg. OLÍMPIC 5-7. NOVEMBER 25TH & 26TH. The Colombian queen of hip shaking and belly-dancing has done it again, releasing yet another chart-topping album infused with Latino and reggaeton sounds. The video for her latest single, ‘Perro Fiel’, featuring Puerto Rican singer Nicky Jam, includes clips of the star painted head to toe in gold as she displays her famous moves, looking as young as the day she started. The Barcelona-based singer arrived on the music scene in the early Nineties, first earning commercial success in Latin America before breaking the English-language market with her awardwinning album Laundry Service (2002). At 40, Shakira continues to reach audiences around the globe singing in both English and Spanish, but it is not only language barriers that she is crossing. As a UNICEF ambassador, the singer also dedicates her time to breaking down barriers to education in her native Colombia. So far, she has opened six schools for displaced or underprivileged children. Her work has not gone unnoticed and led to her rubbing shoulders with Barack Obama after he appointed her to his advisory commission on educational excellence for Hispanics. Her latest album, El Dorado (2017), is a true expression of her Latino roots and is sure to attract worldwide attention.

UNCHARTERED WATERS

THE WATERBOYS. BARTS. PARAL·LEL 62. NOVEMBER 19TH. Formed by placing a good old-fashioned ad in the newspaper, it has been over three decades since The Waterboys came together with their brand of Scottish folk rock. The ad caught the attention of multi-instrumentalist Anthony Thistlewaite and drummer Kevin Wilkinson who joined frontman Mike Scott in making their debut album, The Waterboys (1983), followed by A Pagan Place (1984). Success, however, came a little later with their ambitious third album, This is the Sea (1985), which shot the lads to fame as well-known earworm ‘Whole of the Moon’ was aired on radios nationwide. Following their big break, the group took some time off, during which Scott moved to Ireland for a brief spell. The rich musical culture of the Emerald Isle infused their Scottish folk sound and brought the band into a new phase. Joined by a myriad of Irish musicians, they recorded Fisherman’s Blues (1988), an eclectic album, combining the best of Irish and Scottish folk rock. After sadly losing Wilkinson to suicide in 1999, The Waterboys embarked on solo projects and numerous album releases, including a collection of songs inspired by Irish poet W.B Yeats. The Waterboys latest release is an ode to their diversity. Venturing into the sounds of disco with ‘Monument’ and even taking a jab at hip-hop on ‘Hiphopstrumental 4 (Scatman)’, Scott shows he is not afraid to take on any musical genre.

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FRESH SOUNDS

RAg ‘N’ BONE MAN. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. NOVEMBER 11TH. Each year, the BBC predicts which up-and-coming acts will be taking over the airwaves, with past lists featuring the likes of Stormzy, Royal Blood and Adele. Taking his place on the BBC Sound of 2017 shortlist is Brighton-born musician Rory Graham, more famously known as Rag ‘n’ Bone Man. Stealing second place, after winning act R&B artist Ray BLK, he continues to climb his way to the top of the music charts; his debut studio album, Human (2017), topped the UK album charts while the title-track held the number one spot in Germany for over three months. Growing up, Graham was surrounded by music; as a teen he tried his hand at everything from MC-ing to jungle and hip-hop. Before hitting the music scene, Graham worked as a carer for people with Asperger and Down’s syndrome, viewing his music as more of a personal project, which he thought would be limited to the underground scene. But once the world heard his husky voice there was no going back. Proud winner of the BRITs 2017 Critics’ Choice Award, his multi-genre influences have led him to produce a unique sound wrought with soul and blues, which has captured an ever-growing fanbase worldwide.

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music MODERN DAY PREACHER

FATHER JOHN MISTY. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. NOVEMBER 18TH. Former drummer of indie band Fleet Foxes, Joshua Michael Tillman, aka Father John Misty, has been producing a steady flow of solo work for 15 years, making a name for himself not only for his poetic lyrics, but also his attitude. The highminded narcissism that seemed to work for artists like Bob Dylan, doesn’t bode so well for Tillman. In an interview with BBC Radio 6 Music last year, he came to loggerheads with the interviewers who he accused of leading him with ‘blunt questions’. He is often referred to as a hipster and his image, along with his unusual stage name, often overshadow the work he does. Tillman’s music is heavily influenced by his upbringing in a repressive evangelical family in Maryland. He is very open about how this shaped his life and work, with his latest album, Pure Comedy (2017), laying bare his skills as an observationalist and his cynical outlook on the world. Although the inclusion of images of Trump’s inauguration speech in the video led many to believe the recently released title-track was a reflection on the political events of 2016, Tillman explained in an interview with DJ Zane Low that it was purely good timing and luck that the lyrics could be interpreted as a cutting critical analysis of the presidential elections. His style is reminiscent of Cohen and Wainwright, taking it upon himself to become an opinionated, generational voice. Having co-written songs for Lady Gaga and Beyoncé whilst selling out shows across Europe, Father John Misty clearly has the talent to back up the pomp.

ELECTRO’S GOLDEN BOYS

BICEP. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. NOVEMBER 25TH. These Belfast DJs just can’t seem to get enough of this city as they return just months after their stellar performance at this year’s Primavera Sound festival. Revellers were treated to some of their early hits, including ‘Just’, as well as a few teasers from their debut album Bicep (2017), released in September. So who is behind the decks? The duo, namely Andy Ferguson and Matt McBriar, have been in cahoots since their school years, but their music connection was something that came later in life. At university, they each discovered their talents for mixing which, when combined, became a musical force to be reckoned with. Initially working together over Skype from Dubai and London, they eventually decided to give up their day jobs and seriously flex their artistic muscles. Their Italo disco sound has been starting parties all over Europe, bringing their interpretation of classic electro to fans. Bicep buffs will be pleased to hear that the much awaited album is crammed full of belters, which the pair will be blasting out at Sala Apolo this month. If the Primavera Sound turn out is anything to go by, there is sure to be a queue out the door.

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IN CONCERT

1st. Alfonso de Vilallonga Luz de Gaz. Muntaner 246. 2nd. Antonio Carmona BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 3rd. The Darkness Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 3rd. Leslie Helpert Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8. 5th. Phil Rudd Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 7th. Aldous Harding Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 8th. Saint Etienne Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 9th. Chick Corea Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 10th. Inheaven Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 12th. La Locomotora Negra Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 14th. Fred Hersch Trio Auditori del Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88. 15th. Algiers Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 16th. Hercules & Love Affair Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 18th. Pussy Riot DJ set Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 18th. Cory Henry and the Funk Apostles Luz de Gaz. Muntaner 246. 21st. Lila Downs Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 22nd. Mount Kimbie Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 23rd. MHD Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 26th. Perfume Genius Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 29th. Julia Holter BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 30th. Lauren Henderson Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

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art FRIENDLY RIVALRY

AGÓN! COMPETITION IN ANCIENT GREECE. CAIXAFORUM. AVDA. DE FRANCESC FERRER I GUÁRDIA 6-8. OPENING NOVEMBER 24TH. The history of ancient Greece is full of intense competition. From victorious warriors, determined athletes and ideological clashes between famous thinkers, competition was present in all aspects of domestic and religious life. Rivalry was not only considered a merit on the battlefield, but represented an honorable sense of respect for the other and for oneself. ‘Agon’ is the ancient Greek term for contest or struggle. This exhibition examines this competitive spirit through a selection of artefacts from the British Museum, including sculptures, coins, ceramics and jewels. It also includes some iconic pieces of art, such as a marble slab of the Amazon frieze from the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos, which depicts the battle between the Greeks and the Amazons, and Vaison Diadum, a marble sculpture of an athlete tying a ribbon on his head as a mark of victory.

Rosemarie Castoro ‘Blue Red Gold Pink Green Yellow Y Bar’, 1965. ©The Estate of Rosemarie Castoro

MINIMAL FUSS

ROSEMARIE CASTORO: FOCUS AT INFINITY. MACBA. PL. DELS ÁNGELS. OPENING NOVEMBER 9TH. A gifted painter and sculptor, proponent of Minimalism and member of the Sixties New York avant-garde, Rosemarie Castoro is curiously absent from the prevailing memory of contemporary art. This month, in a retrospective exhibition dedicated to her work, MACBA gives the multi-talented American artist the recognition she deserves. Focusing on works produced between 1964 and 1979, the exhibition will display her pioneering contribution to abstraction and monochrome painting, showcasing Minimalist paintings alongside performance and conceptual installations, Post-Minimalist sculptures and Land Art. Comprising more than 250 works, ‘Focus at Infinity’ reveals the diversity of Castoro’s artistic practice, expressed through multiple mediums, from concrete poetry and performance to Conceptualism and computer-generated procedural art, as well as her palpable social conscience and commitment to political activism. Together with commentary from curator Tanya Barson, the artwork will be accompanied by an exhibition catalogue featuring analysis from Minimalism specialists Melissa Feldman and Anna Lovatt.

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REVIEW

THE WORLD IN TECHNICOLOUR Will Shank visits ‘Warhol: Mechanical Art’ at the CaixaForum Until December 31st

“I

n the future, I think everyone should be world-famous for 15 minutes,” Andy Warhol once said, famously and cryptically. His own 15 minutes will never be up, as the current exhibition at CaixaForum amply demonstrates; Warhol is as relevant today as he was when he died in 1988. ‘Warhol: Mechanical Art’ shows how the New York artist tweaked the traditional notion of the unique, handmade work of art into a question of relative value. The first few galleries treat us to some of Warhol’s greatest hits, mostly on loan from the Warhol Museum in his native Pittsburgh. We see his series of Campbell’s soup cans, and multiple portraits of Liz, Jackie, Marilyn and Elvis in Day-Glo colours: graphic images squished repeatedly through silk-screen frames. These images were as mind-boggling as they were original in the Sixties and, as familiar as they have become in the past 50 years, remain so today. It’s fun, and instructive, to watch young Warhol evolve from a commercial artist cranking out ads and window dressing for Tiffany’s. The leap from his carefully inked words and images on posters and greetings cards to his early paintings (such as the 1962 black-and-white painting Nose Job) is not huge, but you can see his rapid development to fine artist by the end of the Fifties. The scope of his influence on pop culture was enormous, from the psychedelic palette of the Sixties to his creation of the magazine INTERVIEW, which still exists today. As a filmmaker, he was also a trailblazer. In a darkened gallery his Screen Tests short silent movie series shows celebrities (Susan Sontag and Salvador Dalí, among others) silently staring at Warhol’s camera. To see his mentor Marcel Duchamp, the inventor of the ready-made art object that was in many ways Warhol’s inspiration, feels especially right. The exhibition ends with his famously

enigmatic black-and-white film Sleep (1963), a five-hour movie that is a close-up of a guy, well, sleeping. My favourite moment comes in a small-screen video that visitors can watch while seated on a stool with headphones: “Fashion”. Debbie Harry and Friends. Here, Warhol was invited to do a performance piece before the cameras with Debbie Harry of Blondie, and the artist sits down for the first time at a computer screen to create a digital portrait of the singer. It’s pretty good, and one can only wonder where he would have gone with digital imagery, as his contemporary David Hockney has on his iPad in recent years, had Warhol lived a few years longer. The curators could have chosen to leave out a re-creation of a curiously tame disco experience: Exploding Plastic Inevitable, 2014 (originally created in 1966). With its muffled music soundtrack and black-and-white videos, it pales in contrast to Warhol’s technicolour palette, and it fails to generate the appropriate buzz, feeling more like a head-scratching distraction from the rest of the dynamic exhibition than a contribution towards understanding the artist and his work. The baffling English text by the curator that is supplied on the newsprint handout at the entrance (poorly translated, it seems) is also off-putting. Warhol, who famously used a few simple words to explain his own creations, would have laughed at the convoluted curator speak that attempts to introduce his work to museum visitors. Skip the explanation and form your own opinions from Warhol’s rich visuals. At the end of the exhibition, visitors, children and adults alike are invited to create their own rubber-stamp prints on pieces of coloured paper in a small gallery, and then scan them onto a screen to make them into unique, or not so unique, works of art à la Andy Warhol.

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art

©Boz Scaggs by Guy Bourdin

BARCELONA, BESÒS VIEW. PALAU DE LA VIRREINA. LA RAMBLA 99. OPENING NOVEMBER 4TH. ‘Barcelona, Besòs View’ is a photographic project detailing the development of the city’s eastern waterfront in the early years of the 21st century. The result of an unusual collaboration between French photographer Patrick Faigenbaum and geographer Joan Roca, this urban portrait represents the transformation of the city as seen from the periphery, along the banks of the Besòs River. In the photos, taken by Faigenbaum between 1999 and 2007, the creators wanted to do more than simply expose the urban development of Barcelona in this eight-year window; the idea was to represent the process from the viewpoint of local residents. This personalised perspective is achieved through photographic documentation, not only of the visible architectural evolution of the city, but also by capturing the spirit of the individuals and the community that live in this peripheral area. According to Roca, there was a desire to construct “a vision that was locally rooted but not ‘localist’”, as a means of “contributing to a new perception of the ‘local’ and the ‘global”.

Esperanza Martínez, Institut Barri Besòs, 1999

URBAN FACELIFT

FOR THE RECORD

TOTAL RECORDS. VINYL & PHOTOGRAPHY. FUNDACIÓ FOTO COLECTANIA. PG. DE PICASSO 14. OPENING NOVEMBER 22ND.

Take a tour through the rich and expansive musical heritage of the 20th century at this photographic exhibition dedicated to iconic vinyl covers. From The Rolling Stones and Iggy Pop to Grace Jones and Miles Davis, ‘Total Records. Vinyl and Photography’ explores the relationship between music and visual culture, displaying how artwork became an integral part of the record and led to images that remain firmly instilled in public memory. Alongside the musical greats, the exhibition displays work by the photographers who played an implicit role in their success, including Robert Frank, Irving Penn, Jeff Wall and many others who contributed to both photographic and musical history. The exhibition is divided into thematic sections that examine the nuances of this unique art form, which became a space for artistic experimentation, with the potential to provoke scandals, serve political demands and influence the minds of a generation. The travelling exhibition, which was produced by the festival Les Rencontres de la Photographie d’Arles and has already been shown in Arles, Zurich and Berlin, comes to Spain for the first time this month.

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EXHIBITIONS

OPENINGS LA VIRREINA Rue Des Pyrénées The drawings and photographic work of Yves Bélorgey stretch the basic principles that have traditionally separated painting and photography. Opening November 3rd. La Rambla 99. FUNDACIÓ JOAN MIRÓ Shipwrecked Species Irene de Andrés develops an ensemble of pieces from various mediums to explore the case of the shipwreck of the San José, a Spanish galleon that sunk more than 300 years ago off the Colombian coast, but was only discovered in 2015. Opening November 17th. Espai 13. ADN GALERIA Pep Vidal - Who Wants To Be An Impatient Gardener? In September 2016, artist and scientist Pep Vidal bought the entire stock of a plant store in Barcelona with the intention of measuring the variations and interactions of more than 300 plants. This photography exhibition presents the entire process. Opening November 25th. Enric Granados 49. MEAM On the centenary of Rodin’s death Polish sculptor Grzegorz Gwiazda presents a series of work inspired by the master of modern sculpture, Auguste Rodin, on the centenary of his death. Opening November 30th. Barra de Ferro 5.

LAST CHANCE MACBA Beneath the Surface Consisting of 30 works taken primarily from the MACBA’s collection, this exhibition focuses on the limits of representation, as well as the relevance of the artist and art in contemporary society. Until November 4th. Pl. dels Àngels 1.

TRES PUNTS GALERIA Ramon Surinyac Known for his meticulous, intense and repetitive process of composition, Barcelona-born painter Ramon Surinyac chooses the representation of places and landscapes as the focal point in his latest work. Until November 18th. Enric Granados 21. GALERIA JOAN PRATS Julião Sarmento Sarmento’s fourth exhibition presents his most recent work, including the installation Crash Dummy (2016) and sculpture Broken Alice (2014), alongside paintings based on the the principles of fractal geometry. Until November 24th. Balmes 54.

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Rosemarie Castoro ‘Red Pink Green Gray’, 1965

FUNDACIÓ FOTO COLECTANIA Weegee by Weegee Renowned photojournalist and freelance photographer Weegee began capturing New York City’s darkest moments in the Thirties and Forties, when the streets were rampant with crime. This exhibition presents a carefully chosen selection of his work. Until November 5th. Pg. de Picasso 14.

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misc THE SPIRIT OF JAPAN

XXiii BARcelonA MAngA FAiR. FiRA de BARcelonA. AvdA. de lA ReinA MARiA cRistinA. noveMBeR 1st-5th. Back for its 23rd edition, this year’s Barcelona Manga Fair will be bigger than ever, with more than 100,000 manga lovers and Japanophiles expected to attend. Comic fans can enjoy manga and anime workshops, along with 3D printing, cosplay, a Nintendo videogame area and various guest YouTubers. Last year, special guests included authors of the Pokémon manga, Hidenori Kusaka and Satoshi Yamamoto, and the creators of the anime film One Piece Gold (2016). For those with a more general interest in the Far East, the fair will also offer a slice of Japanese culture with workshops on macrobiotics, Japonism, Kimono, Bonsai and a tea and meditation room. This year’s cooking workshop, organised by Comer Japonés founder Roger Ortuño, will give visitors the opportunity to learn more about one of the staples of Japanese cuisine—rice. There will also be food trucks, live music and traditional Asian dance performances. manga-xxiii.ficomic.com

A DIFFERENT POINT OF VIEW

l’AlteRnAtivA. cccB. MontAlegRe 5. noveMBeR 13th-19th. For 24 years, the Independent Film Festival of Barcelona, L’Alternativa, has been offering the public and professionals a unique opportunity to enjoy films that express the creative independence of their makers, and encourage diversity and innovation.The films screened are all original pieces that spurn conventional approaches and live life on the fringes of commercial circuits. Around 170 international films appear each year—most for the first time in Spain—between the shorts and features of the competitive Official section and the Parallel section, which includes lesser-known films, a panorama of national cinema and a family programme. The festival also organises seminars, round tables, film school workshops, a professional symposium, activities for families and concerts. alternativa.cccb.org

BLAST FROM THE PAST

AutoRetRo BARcelonA 2017. FiRA de BARcelonA. AvdA. de lA ReinA MARiA cRistinA. noveMBeR 16th-19th. The 34th edition of the vintage car and vehicle fair will bring together brands and exhibitors from all over the world, including Bentley, Rolls Royce, Mercedes and Porsche. The stars of the show here are classic cars, as well as a range of other vehicles, attracting collectors and four-wheel aficionados to see, buy or sell. The new ‘Start your Engine’ activity will allow visitors to see the vehicles come to life, while a catalogue of products will include everything from vintage vehicles to accessories and hard-to-find spare parts. This year, the fair features a miniature off-road circuit for radio-controlled 4x4 cars, with a skill display at the weekend. With the same mechanics and weight ratios, the models are just like the real thing. More vintage models will be on show at the free parking area for classic cars and, for the first time, the British company Vintage & Prestige Fine Motor Cars will present a selection of high-end vehicles brought directly from their Essex showroom. A variety of food trucks and Moritz brewery kiosks will keep visitors fuelled each day. autoretro.es

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BIG BROTHER LIVES

1984. veRsus teAtRe. cAstillejos 179. noveMBeR 2nd-12th. ‘Doublethink means the power of holding two contradictory beliefs in one’s mind simultaneously, and accepting both of them’. This statement was written by George Orwell in 1949 as part of the discourse used by the manipulative regime in his classic dystopian novel 1984, but could just as easily describe the concept of ‘alternative facts’ employed in recent times by media and political figures. The story of Winston Smith’s struggle against the constant surveillance and gaslighting of a power-hungry state at perpetual war has an eerie resonance with the modern world. The parallels have not been lost on many, and 1984 has seen something of a cultural revival in the past year—the book topped the Amazon.com sales charts in early 2017, while a major new stage production has opened on Broadway. Here in Barcelona, English-language theatre company Escapade presents its adaptation of the seminal novel for the second time, following a sell-out run earlier in the year. Escapade Theatre’s production focuses on the parallels with Orwell’s Oceania and the world we live in today, aiming to both shock the audience out of indifference, and encourage dialogue. escapadetheatre.es

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(24TH)

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CARRERA DE LA MUJER (12TH)

MONDAY

ASB IMMIGRATION SEMINAR The American Society of Barcelona hosts an evening with immigration experts Josh Surowitz and Carl Shusterman, who will discuss potential changes to US immigration policy, followed by cocktails. 7pm. Hard Rock Café.

WOLFGANG VOIGT Wolfgang Voigt, also known as GAS, will perform the opening concert of the MIRA festival of digital arts. 9pm. L'Auditori.

FESTIVAL L'ALTERNATIVA (13TH)

TUE SDAY

HINDS Witness the raw and playful sound of Madrid-based girl band, Hinds. 8pm. Sala Apolo.

The first major exhibition of the work of Rosemarie Castoro, exploring her involvement with Minimalism, Conceptualism and Feminism. MACBA. Until April 2018.

Join the American Society of Barcelona for an evening of drinks and networking. 8pm. Le Méridien Hotel. NIÑO JOSELE The Voll-Damm Jazz Festival continues with Josele's vibrant blend of flamenco and jazz-style guitar. 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu.

9FOCUS AT INFINITY

8ASB HAPPY HOUR

PEDRO JAVIER GONZÁLEZ QUARTET One of the most renowned flamenco guitarists of the moment performs as part of the Festival Maestros de la Guitarra. 9pm. Palau de la Música.

ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL The fifth edition of this festival will showcase a selection of new films offering an isight into the Asian film industry, from Vietnam to Korea. Filmoteca de Catalunya & CaixaForum. Until November 12th.

STOMP YOUR FEET JAZZ FESTIVAL Put on your dancing shoes for a series of classes and parties led by tap and swing dancing pros. Ball Centre Studio. Until November 12th.

Prepare to be astounded by the possibilities of scientific development, showcased at this educational exhibition. CosmoCaixa. Until April 2018.

10 SYNTHETIC BIOLOGY

FRIDAY BLUES AT MEAM An evening of contemporary art accompanied by jazz pianists Elena Lasco and Paul San Martín. 6pm. MEAM.

The Barcelona Improv Group present their fifth annual festival, featuring improvised comedy and theatre in Spanish, Catalan and English. Fundació Cultural Hostafrancs. November 3rd & 4th.

Escapade Theatre present a theatrical adaptation of Orwell's influential dystopian novel. 8pm. Versus Theatre. Until November 12th.

The Barcelona Manga fair returns for its 23rd edition, celebrating all things Japanese, from cosplay contests to Asian dance and cookery. 9am. Fira de Barcelona. Until November 5th.

FRIDAY

3THE LITTLE IF

T HURSDAY

21984

WE DN ESDAY

1XXIII BARCELONA MANGA FAIR

NOVEMBER 2017

THIS MONTH

A MARY WIGMAN DANCE EVENING Inspired by iconic ballerina Mary Wigman, Fabián Barba discusses the history of contemporary dance. 8.30pm. Teatre Hiroshima.

Barcelona hosts one of the most powerful voices in UK hip-hop. 9pm. Sala Apolo.

11 RAG 'N' BONE MAN

POP-UP AFTERNOON TEA A traditional British afternoon tea, complete with scones, sandwiches and sweet treats. 6pm. Espai Egg.

BIS FESTIVAL A record fair promoting independent musical labels with live performances and record sales. Fundació Cultural Hostafrancs. November 3rd & 4th.

Electronic DJ-turned-folk singer showcases his diverse musical talent. 7pm. Sala Apolo.

4FINK

SAT URDAY

CARRERA DE LA MUJER Ladies, lace up your trainers for Europe's largest female sporting event. The 7.8km-run comes to Barcelona as the final destination of its country-wide tour. 10am. Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina.

LA LOCOMATORA NEGRA Forty-three years after their first appearance at Voll Damm Jazz Festival, the classic local jazz band are still on the go. 7pm. Palau de la Música.

YOUNG BLOOD BRASS BAND Get your groove on to what Dazed and Confused magazine described as 'hip hop's heaviest brass band'. 9pm. Sala Bikini.

Bag yourself a bargain at the market where everything costs €1 or less. 10am. Zamora 78. November 4th & 5th.

5TODO A €1 BY TWO MARKET

SUN DAY

THE COLOR RUN (19TH)

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BARCELONA '92 IMAGES (UNTIL SEPT 26TH)

THE BAD PLUS The American trio perform at the Voll-Damm Jazz Festival with their usual blend of explosive lyricism and good humour. 8.30pm. Conservatori de Liceu.

Musical Tuesdays at Antic Teatre present artists from the Nøvak music label, including contemporary art group Fame Chimica and artist and musician, Primo Gabbiano. 8.30pm. Antic Teatre.

The artistic alter ego and solo recording project of Martaan Devoldere comes to Barcelona as part of the 'Vida On The Road' tour. 8.30pm. Sidecar.

DESTROYER The indie rock band fronted by Canadian singer-songwriter Dan Dejar performs at Sala Bikini, supported by pop musician Nicholas Krgovich. 9pm. Sala Bikini.

28 NØVAK AT ANTIC TEATRE

JULIA HOLTER Julia Holter performs solo on grand piano, supported by Tashi Wada as part of the Voll-Damm International Jazz Festival. 8pm. BARTS.

Hear the dreamy melodies of the American ambient pop band, live in Barcelona as they present their debut, self-titled album. 8pm. Sala Apolo.

29 CIGARETTES AFTER SEX

TECH EXPERIENCE CONFERENCE A space for the discussion and learning of all things technological, from artificial intelligence to neuromarketing. 9am. Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm.

Hear the extraordinary voice of the American singer as she performs her fourth album, Goodnight Rhonda Lee. 9pm. Sidecar.

The Latin icon performs for the first time at the Voll-Damm Jazz Festival. 9pm. Palau de la Música.

TOTAL RECORDS: VINYLS AND PHOTOGRAPHY A photographic tour through the most iconic vinyl covers of the 20th century, including The Rolling Stones, Björk and Madonna. Foto Colectania. Until March 2018.

22 NICOLE ATKINS

FATHER JOHN MISTY (18TH)

21 LILA DOWNS

27 WARHAUS

BAND OF HORSES (8TH)

ULCERATE Not for the faint-hearted, the heavy metal band will perform their most recent album, Shrines of Paralysis. 7.30pm. Razzmatazz.

The third edition of this short film festival, which this year features a prize for young film-makers. Biblioteca Sant Gervasi- Joan Maragall. Until December 1st.

20 BIBLIOCURTS

FESTIVAL L'ALTERNATIVA Independent cinema from around the world will be screened at the 24th edition of this festival. Zama (2017), the eagerly awaited film by Lucrecia Martel will open proceedings. Various locations. Until November 19th.

Prepare to be intrigued by this interdisciplinary performance incorporating movement, sound and visual art. Teatre Hiroshima. Until November 16th.

13 WRECK

LOVE OF LESBIAN The Spanish indie pop band conclude their 'El Poeta Halley' tour with two final performances in Barcelona. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club. Until November 25th.

A dystopian tale of cultural demise with a twist of dark humour. 9pm. Teatre-Auditoria Sant Cugat.

24 LA AUTORA DE LAS MENINAS

IRENE DE ANDRÉS Part of the 'Possibility of an Island' exhibition, Spanish artist Irene de Andrés reflects on the pressures of colonialism and mass tourism. Fundació Joan Miró. Until January 2018.

Sala Bikini host the English singersongwriter best known for his catchy tune 'September Song'. 9pm. Sala Bikini.

17 JP COOPER

NÁO SOY YO Sandra Gómez de la Torre's exhibition combines live dance performances with video interviews of Valencian dance stars. Antic Teatre. Until November 26th.

Prepare to shake your hips as the Colombian superstar performs at Palau Sant Jordi, presenting her 11th studio album, El Dorado (2017). 7pm. Palau Sant Jordi.

25 SHAKIRA

FATHER JOHN MISTY One of the most prominent figures in contemporary indie rock will perform his latest album, Total Entertainment Forever (2017), supported by futuristic folk singer, Weyes Blood. 8pm. Razzmatazz.

A contemporary exhibition based on the question 'what can a body do?' 8pm. Antic Teatre. Until November 26th.

18 ECLIPSE, 2015.

AUTORETRO 2017 (16TH)

JOHN LEGEND (12TH)

NACHO The Venezuelan singer's debut tour as a solo artist, 'Bailáme', comes to Barcelona. 9pm. Sant Jordi Club.

A multi-disciplinary exhibition inspired by the energetic movement in a pinball machine. 7pm. Teatre Hiroshima.

26 DOMANDO A PINBALL

NEVER SAY DIE! TOUR Lovers of metalcore and deathcore shoudn't miss this night of music from seven different bands. 7pm.Razzmatazz.

LA HISTORIA DEL SOLDADO See Igor Stravinsky's masterpiece brought to life, with actor Jaume Cassomes as a narrator. 7pm. CaixaForum.

Get fit the fun way at the world's happiest 5km run. 9am. Parc del Fórum.

19 THE COLOR RUN

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT OUR WEBSITE BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

DIARIES, NOTES AND SKETCHES A 16mm screening featuring work from artists Marie Menken, Ken Jacobs, Jonas Mekas and Stan Brakhage. 8pm. CCBB.

'ANARCHY' Vocalist Lauren Henderson from Massachusetts, presents her third album, Riptide (2017), as part of the Voll Damm Jazz Festival. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club.

30 SOCIETAT DOCTOR ALONSO:

SCOTCAT OPENING NIGHT The first meeting of the Catalan and Scottish Friendship Association, a society dedicated to organising social activities relating to Scottish and Catalan culture. 7pm. Pati Llimona Cultural Centre.

The American Society of Barcelona host a dinner in celebration of Thanksgiving. Location tbc.

23 THANKSGIVING WITH ASB

SOMEWHAT PALER Bárbara Sánchez presents an exhibition delving into the deepest, darkest areas of inner consciousness. 9pm. Antic Teatre. Until November 24th.

HERCULES & LOVE AFFAIR The dance music project of DJ Andy Butler comes to Barcelona. 8pm. Sala Apolo.

Car lovers unite at this international exhibition of classical vehicles. Fira de Barcelona. Until November 19th.

16 AUTORETRO 2017

BARÇA’S

GOLDEN BOY OUTSIDE CAMP NOU, A TOWERING BRONZE STATUE STANDS IN HONOUR OF ONE OF FC BARCELONA’S GREATEST PLAYERS, LADISLAU KUBALA

By J.S. von Dacre

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A mural of the footballing hero by Brazilian artist, Paulo Consentino

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Kubala, who arrived in Barcelona as a refugee, became one of the city’s most loved sons In 1949, amidst fears of the country’s alarming political instability, he fled to Austria with his family, hiding under a tarpaulin in the back of a truck. From there, they moved on to Italy, where Kubala lived in a refugee camp before playing for Pro Patria in Lombardy. His talent did not go unrecognised, and he soon caught the attention of Torino FC, the four-time Italian league champions at the time. He was offered a trial game with them against Portuguese side S.L. Benfica in Lisbon. At the last minute, Kubala’s son fell ill and he made a fateful decision not to travel to Lisbon. On May 4th, 1949, as the Torino team travelled back from Lisbon, the plane crashed into the retaining wall at the back of the Basilica of Superga in Turin, killing all 31 people on board, in what has been described as Italy’s greatest footballing tragedy. Meanwhile, following Kubala’s departure without the necessary permissions, Hungary called for his extradition and, as a result, FIFA gave him a one-year ban. Kubala became part of a team that consisted of other refugees. In 1950, the team played a series of friendlies in Spain, where he peaked the interest of Real Madrid and FC Barcelona. Soon after, Kubala signed for the club, although he didn’t make his La Liga debut until 1951 because of the ban.

ionel Messi, Ronaldinho, Diego Maradona, Johan Cruyff...the list of footballing legends that have trickled through the rich history of FC Barcelona is second to none. But in an era when the likes of Messi and Suárez reign supreme, there’s one name that may not resonate as strongly with an international audience: Ladislau Kubala (or László in Hungarian). It’s a name that harks back to an earlier golden era for FC Barcelona. Those were the days when Barcelona was a city hungry for redemption during Franco’s regime, and Kubala was the venerated, golden-haired hero who perpetuated the power of impossible dreams. A precocious talent with a formidable right foot, he was Barcelona’s original poster boy. “Throughout the Fifties, Kubala was the most famous person in Catalunya, a phenomenon incomparable even with the popularity of Leo Messi today,” a spokesman from FC Barcelona told Metropolitan. It was no surprise then that during the club’s 1999 centenary celebrations, he was voted the best player of all time by fans. FC Barcelona described him as “the factotum of FC Barcelona’s stadium”, emphasising his importance to the Catalan people, and the need for his statue at Camp Nou. “Kubala had the enormous merit of bringing enthusiasm back to Catalan society, traumatised since 1939 by defeat in the Civil War. The victories of Kubala’s Barça were the best way to escape the sad realities of the dictatorship.” At FC Barcelona, Kubala scored 280 goals in 345 appearances and won La Liga five times. As a naturalised Spaniard, he donned the Spanish shirt 19 times to represent the nation, scoring 11 goals. He also became a two-time winner of the Inter-Cities Fairs Cup (predecessor of the UEFA Cup). Following his retirement, he worked as a coach for Barcelona, Spain and the national Olympic team. Kubala was born in 1927 to working class parents in postwar Hungary. At 18, he signed to Ferencvárosi TC in Budapest and a year later, in 1946, he joined ŠK Slovan Bratislava, which saw a move to his parents’ native Czechoslovakia. His stay was short-lived as he soon returned to Budapest after signing for Vasas SC.

It was a move that would catapult his meteoric rise to superstardom. “His arrival at FC Barcelona was the beginning of the creation of a legendary side—el Barça de las Cinco Copas (the Barça team of the five cups)—an invincible side for two seasons (1951/52 and 1952/53) which won everything. The team’s extraordinary success awoke a newfound enthusiasm in Barça fans and accelerated the construction of the Camp Nou,” explained FC Barcelona. So much was Kubala revered that many famous songs were made in his honour and children recited popular rhymes about him. Those not old enough to recall his heyday, may have heard the tales of Barcelona’s previous stadium, Camp de Les Corts, being too small to accommodate all the fans who wanted to see Kubala play. The 60,000 capacity stadium was always jam-packed and electrified by the thousands of eager fans who waited outside, simply for a glimpse of their beloved Kubala. His popularity is credited as the impetus for the construction of Camp Nou, the largest European stadium with a capacity of almost 100,000. “Kubala took the Barcelona fans’ breath away with his footballing qualities and his unusual physical force. He had the technique of a juggler, an extraordinary vision of play, great finishing ability, an unsurpassable mastery of set pieces and penalties, plus tremendous leadership qualities on the pitch. In addition, he was the perfect definition of a ‘larger than life’ character.” He also became known for his profound generosity. FC Barcelona confirmed that a significant amount of his earnings was donated to assist many families in financial difficulties. He often provided shelter for other refugees like himself in Barcelona, and gave freely to people in need. Kubala never lived to see the unveiling of his statue at Camp Nou in 2009. At the time of his death in 2002, Alfredo di Stefano—regarded as one of the greatest footballers of all time and a former teammate of Kubala for the Spanish national team and RCD Espanyol—said, “Kubala was one of the best there has ever been. His game was pure, crystalline, a real joy for the fans.” To this day, adoration from his fans continues all across the city. Paulo Consentino is an award-winning Brazilian artist who paints footballing heroes all over the world. He organised Barcelona’s recent ‘Take Over’ art festival and painted a huge mural in honour of Kubala, after becoming fascinated by his story. “It’s amazing,” he said. “When I was painting him, people recognised him every day. They would get excited to talk to me about him and some of them even had personal stories of meeting Kubala.” The man, who arrived in Barcelona as a refugee, became one of the city’s most loved sons.

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PHOTO ESSAY

URBAN PARADISE

PHOTOGRAPHER TASH MCCAMMON AND TYPOGRAPHIC ARTIST TRISTAN KERR PLAY WITH IMAGES AND WORDS

hat are the conditions and effects of urban acts of mark-making? How do these disparate acts define the spatial relationship between the individual, the gallery, the institution and the city? ‘Paradise’ is an ongoing dialogue between image and text that addresses these questions; a collaborative project that I have been working on alongside typographic artist Tristan Kerr. At 5pm one afternoon, I walked from the metro in Sant Martí to the MACBA in the Raval, stopping often to capture street scenes, and to share a brief moment with strangers whose look caught my attention. I ended at the museum with a pocket full of 35mm film and the idea to collaborate on a project with Tristan. One month later, the film was processed, printed and varnished on Tristan’s desk in Melbourne. He started by adding multiple layers of primary paint, and reworking a sense of the street environment into each image using vernacular text and everyday urban markings (such as peeling paint, cracked signage, graffiti and vandalism). The series invites the viewer to step into the image and consider how everyday urban markings shape and affect our experience of the city. tajmcc.com tristankerr.com.au

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AU NATUREL A DEEP CONNECTION TO THE LAND AND THE ENVIRONMENT HAS LED MANY VINEYARDS TO GO ORGANIC Text and photos by Helen Iles

ccording to a survey by the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL), one third of Europe’s organic grapes are grown in Spain. Catalunya has a deep-rooted history of viticulture, and in recent decades, many farmers have reconnected with their roots and gone organic. Albet i Noya, in the Penedés town of Sant Pau d’Ordal, introduced organic methods to produce their wines—no synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or weed killers—in the Seventies, making them Spain’s first organic vineyard. Now, they produce over one million bottles annually from 80 hectares

of vineyards. Anna Toledano, who helps organise Albet i Noya’s many wine tourism activities, explained that their philosophy encompasses respect for the environment and a more natural approach to life and health. Further south at Vega de Ribes—just outside Sant Pere de Ribes near Sitges—Enric Bartra tilts a glass under a stream of red juice, lifts it to his nose and inhales deeply. His eyes are closed as if in prayer. It is his first taste of this year’s harvest—swollen grapes freshly plucked as the sun rose over a bright September morning. Bartra’s family have lived and farmed La Serra since 1540. The delighted smile crinkling the corners of his eyes tells me his ancestors would be pleased with this year’s crop. At La Serra, Bartra’s crops have also been organic for over 30 years, substituting weed killers for mechanical removal and emphasising healthy soil over chemical fertilisers. Cover crops planted between vine rows and edge planting of shrubs and hedges help to decrease soil erosion and improve biodiversity, providing a natural habitat for beneficial insects. In addition, organic winemakers like Bartra have a commitment to using indigenous yeasts in the fermentation process, clarifying with natural products and reducing the use of sulphur dioxide, the substance which helps preserve wine (but also gives you a hangover). With four generations of his family living on the farm, Bartra feels their choice to move to organic methods was entirely appropriate. It was a decision taken “for ourselves, for the environment and also for the consumers.”

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Father and son, Francesc and Assís Suriol, harvest their grapes side-by-side

It’s a similar story at Can Suriol, where Assís Suriol, the farm’s 35-year-old oenologist, is harvesting this year’s full, purple Ull de Llebre grapes with a small team in his family’s vineyards. As the full buckets are emptied into the waiting truck, Suriol revealed that he feels lucky that he, unlike many of his peers, did not ‘miss a generation’. His parents bucked the trend to deliver all their grapes to big vineyards for mass processing, instead investing heavily in the farm and small-scale wine production. Today, tourism also plays a part, and they are planning to open the old farmhouse as a casa rural in the near future. Their new cellar is equipped for the future with aluminium vats, but they still choose to ferment some wines in underground concrete cellars and chestnut barrels. In addition to traditional techniques, Suriol stressed the importance of using grapes native to the region. Deeply connected to the land, he feels it is essential to live on the property with the grapes. Passionate about the art and craft he has both inherited and chosen, Suriol explained that “growing great grapes makes great wine, free from the need to add anything else.” For Vega de Ribes, Bartra favours the sweet crispness of Malvasia de Sitges, a variety saved from extinction by local resident Manuel Llopis i de Casdes. This local hero planted his vineyards along the seafront and later bequeathed his land to a local hospital charity on the condition that they continued to cultivate the vineyards. Tenderly cupping a bunch of these pale, almost translucent grapes on the vine, Bartra explained that Malvasia are particularly appropriate for the weather patterns delivered by climate change.

Unusually intense heat in spring is leading to earlier harvests, which is problematic for the pickers who, instead of waiting until the relative cool of September, have to harvest during the intense heat of summer. Malvasia, however, needs extra time to ripen and can be left until late September.

“Growing great grapes makes great wine, free from the need to add anything else”

As they talk through the wine-pressing rituals, transforming truckloads of newly-picked grapes into sweet, slightly fizzy juice, both farmers speak about climate change in a matter-of-fact way. For them, it is a reality they can’t turn away from. Their lifestyle is in tune with the seasons. Their business is dependent on their skill to track, anticipate and respond to precipitation and sunshine,

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so much so that La Serra has its own weather station. Both vineyards are putting systems in place that enable them to adjust to changing patterns, including drought, which Catalunya is particularly susceptible to. This awareness extends to organic corks, sustainably harvested from local plantations. Wine is an integral part of Catalan culture, although the younger generation is looking beyond the local context, exploring viniculture, oenology and, in particular, the marketing and promotion of their wines at a global level. Bartra’s son Biel recently spent time in California exchanging ideas and inspiration, and Suriol, too, has travelled to learn new techniques. Despite centuries of handed-down knowledge, they are still open to fresh ideas. In a recent wine-tasting broadcast on Catalunya Radio show Estat de Gràcia, Catalunya’s best-known sommelier, Audrey Doré of Can Roca, tried some natural wines from Vega de Ribes—her verdict is that they embody the “taste of the Mediterranean”. Sampling these wines after spending time with the farmers and witnessing the care they take of their land and harvest gives the experience a whole new flavour, in which the earth and the grape have a tangible presence.

Enric Bartra takes his first taste of this year’s harvest

A TASTE OF NATURE

Reviewed by Mike Shepherd. Follow Mike @artesano_vintners_espanya

CURIÓS XAREL·LO 2016

EL PETIT CARLANIA 2016

FRISTYLE 2016

Albet i Noya D.O Penedès Xarel·lo (100 percent)

Carlania Celler D.O Conca de Barberà Trepat (100 percent)

Celler Comunica D.O Montsant Syrah (65 percent) and Red Grenache (35 percent)

Curiós is made of 100 percent Xarel·lo grapees, known as the noblest of Catalan whites for its distinctive smoothness and complexity. Albet i Noya were one of the first wineries to grow organic grapes in Catalunya and Curiós is sourced from their Can Vendrell vineyard in Tarragona. The grapes are left to macerate with their skins prior to fermentation. This is not normal procedure for dry white wines, but helps extract aromatics. On the nose it has a citrus, slightly grapefruit tinge. On the palate it’s more expressive, embodying creamy qualities typically associated with Xarel·lo, but with a refreshing green apple acidic burst to finish. Delicious served alongside goat’s cheese. €6.95

Carlania Celler is a small bodega that uses organic and biodynamic farming methods. The winemakers, Jordi and Sonia, are passionate about the region and also about the local grape variety Trepat, which they use in everything they produce. Their wines are unfiltered, use wild yeasts and contain no additives—truly au naturel. El Petit Carlania is 100 percent Trepat. It’s a light bright red with berry aromas. In the mouth it’s zesty, bursting with candied raspberry and cherry, all washed down with a dry finish and a touch of mandarin. It’s refreshing and easy to drink, ideal for a picnic, accompanied with some fuet or cured butifarra. €10.95

Pep Aguilar and Patri Morillo are top winemakers. In the hills above Falset, their picturesque and lovingly cared for organic vineyards produce a range of minimum intervention wines. Fristyle is the maximum expression of their creative spirits, and the dark ruby colouring suggests a powerful brew. Aromatically, there are hints of sweet citrus, while in the mouth, dark plum flavours lend a rustic trace. Syrah gives structure and balances perfectly with the Garnatxa. This is a full-bodied wine that is still young, hence the tannic finish. I’m excited to see this after some cellar time. Perfect for sitting by the fireplace in winter with a bowl of cocido. Highly recommended. €11

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WORKING LIFE

startup of the month

BIOS URN CO-FOUNDER ROGER MOLINÉ NAVARRO, 25, LA SEU D’URGELL Bios Urn is the world’s first biodegradable urn. This sustainable and ecofriendly product creates the foundation for a new tree. From the ashes of a loved one, seeds can be sown to create something beautiful; it’s all about the natural circle of life. Apart from our flagship product, Bios Urn have recently introduced the Bios Incube, which allows the tree to be planted indoors, at home. My brother Gerard and I started the company after 15 years of nature-related projects. We were working in the design industry at the time but we were tired of that and decided to bring our own idea to the market. It took off really quickly and we soon found ourselves in Gerard’s living room assembling urns, not only for individuals but also retailers. A few months later we were working full-time, funded through a combination of Bios Urns sales and a crowdfunding campaign. The idea behind Bios Urn came from our grandmother. She lived on a farm all her life and had a close connection to nature. When Gerard was a kid, he was planting vegetables with her in the garden when they found a dead bird. Her natural response was to make a hole and bury it with some of the seeds that she had in her hand. It was in her nature to bury the body and initiate a new life in the process. This action is what inspired Gerard to create the product, together with the idea of changing the way people see death. A common concern is that of the tree dying. But if you want an experience that relies more on life than death, then this is it. It is important to remember that this is a process that requires time and effort. There’s always a risk of the tree dying but that’s what makes it so rewarding when you get it right. Death is just a word, a construction of the human mind. The only thing that’s real is life. I went to California in 2015 to meet one of our first customers. She told me that she was waiting for the seedling to grow out of the earth because that moment would be like her mom was back. And that’s it. That’s exactly what Bios Urn communicates, a focus on the circle of life. The deathcare industry is the only industry in the world that sells a product that nobody wants. Maybe Bios Urn can be the first product that people buy because they actually want it.

GET INSPIRED... LEARNING LAB

OUISHARE FEST BARCELONA 2017

#MORNINGS4

Ubiqum Code Academy. Nov 23rd. The Noise Lab and Metropolitan present their monthly Learning Lab, aimed at entrepreneurs and small business owners looking to improve their inbound marketing strategy for international clients. The workshop series covers various tools for overcoming cultural barriers and creating suitable content for an international market, including social media, SEO optimisation, data analysis, understanding the target market, and more. The event includes networking, a welcome drink and a Q&A session. thenoiselab.es

Parc Tecnològic Barcelona Activa. Nov 15th-17th. This three-day interdisciplinary festival aims to inspire change through knowledge-sharing and exploring organisational models. The third edition focuses on ‘beta societies’, challenging the role of technology for contemporary businesses and consumerism. The event draws speakers, innovators, researchers and business owners to Barcelona, to discuss educational innovation, the future of work and business models, society in transition and ethical consumption. bcn.ouisharefest.com

Torre Telefonica Diagonal ZeroZero. Nov 24th. A morning of talks, debates and networking unites experts from across the industries of science, technology, health and commerce, all with the objective of creating a better future for the planet. A result of the collaboration of over 50 ambassadors for change, the event will focus on technological innovation and modernisation, and how to manage these advances in order to limit risk and encourage the best possible outcome. mornings4.com

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WORKING LIFE

COMPANY MANNERS LOCAL CULTURE AND CUSTOMS ARE IMPORTANT WHEN IT COMES TO DOING BUSINESS IN CATALUNYA

hether you’re a freelancer, business owner, or working your way into or up a corporate ladder, you’ll often be in situations where knowledge of the local business culture is essential to a successful outcome. Every country (and sometimes region) has its own socially accepted rules for doing business, often reflecting the wider attitudes and values of the local culture. These unspoken rules have a significant impact on the way that business is conducted. If you’re trying to get ahead in Barcelona there are a few things you should bear in mind. An appreciation for the local language and culture are essential. Even if you work in a predominantly English-speaking environment, making sure that your language skills are up to scratch is a must. Steve Cahill of Global Executive commented that “although English is commonplace here, I often make negotiations in Spanish and I find that making the effort is much appreciated and respected”. You can certainly get by in Barcelona with just Castilian, but some knowledge of Catalan will also be well received. Locals anywhere enjoy a sound appreciation of their city, and showing an understanding of the local culture and language, and a desire to connect with it, is important. Sarah Bradley from the US has worked in Barcelona for 10 years, mostly in HR for international companies. Bradley has found that as her knowledge of the city and local culture has grown, her connections with people have become more

natural. “Conversation just flows better when you have some common ground beyond the professional,” she said. First impressions matter, so pay attention to how you greet people. Kissing on both cheeks is the usual way to greet a new social acquaintance, but it is not common practice in business unless you know the other party well. Play it safe and stick to a firm handshake unless your Spanish counterpart offers you a cheek. Make sure you’re dressed appropriately for the occasion too. Depending on the environment, the way people dress varies hugely. If you’re in the world of startups, informal is probably the way to go, regardless of whether you’re meeting a programmer, marketer or CEO. If you’re dealing in a more formal business environment, however, dress is still decidedly conventional and understated. Well-cut suits, polished shoes, smart accessories, and ties for men are the status quo and associated with professionalism. Although life here is more easygoing than in many countries, in the business world, the stereotype of long siestas and lack of punctuality should be left at the office door. Newcomers may think the beach lifestyle translates into a care-free work attitude, but that’s not the case. More offices are changing from the old horario partido—which involves a two to three hour lunch break during a punishingly long working day—to a continual timetable more in line with the rest of Europe. “There is a myth surrounding working life in Spain,” said Cahill. “Although in Andalusia temperatures can reach the mid-forties and it is

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MET PEOPLE

How does business culture in Barcelona differ from home country?

PATRICIA

Age: 50 From: The Netherlands Profession: Business Consultant and President of PWN Barcelona There are many subtle differences in business culture, the one I enjoy most is the importance of building trusted relationships with clients, providers and counterparts.

MERITXELL

From: Barcelona Profession: Editor, Planet Mediterraneo I’m from Barcelona but I have spent years doing business in England. Here, I think we have a more informal business style. You are far more likely to have a business meeting over lunch, or maybe while taking clients to see a cultural event. The British way is much more ‘business is business’. I don’t think either is worse, just different.

impossible to work during the afternoon, this is not the case in Barcelona.” And, just like in any other country, punctuality is expected and appreciated. People are possibly more forgiving of lateness here, but you should still get there on time. Don’t expect to carry out formal business over lunch. Strong personal bonds and mutual trust are part of Catalan culture and spending time on developing a good rapport with colleagues and partners is considered vital to business relations. While you may not be discussing the business at hand over lunch, know that it is important nonetheless. This is a time to relax, enjoy the food and connect with each other through conversation—you may touch on business, but there will be plenty of topics of conversation, from family and friends to your home country and football. Be open and friendly, but steer clear of potentially charged topics or stereotypes. This investment in personal relationships and a desire not to rush things can lead to more drawn out negotiations. Even though a schedule may have been set in advance for meetings, it should be considered as more of a guideline than a rigid timetable. And there may be an amount of to-ing and fro-ing before conclusions are reached. “I have learned that patience is essential,” said Bradley. “When I first arrived I was used to a much faster, drier decision-making process. I realised early on that my attitude was actually hindering things as people thought I was rushed and unfriendly. This has been good for me. I’m a much more patient person now.”

ADRIANA

Age: 52 From: US Profession: Real estate I have only joined the real estate industry since arriving in Barcelona, but I can see that there is definitely a different approach to business. In general, people are not in so much of a hurry to settle matters as they would be in the US.

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WORKING LIFE

A DAY IN THE LIFE COLM QUIGLEY, 41, IRELAND, AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE MANAGER Colm moved to Barcelona in 2006 to work as an engineer for Vueling Airlines when it first started. He was made redundant in 2009 when Clickair and Vueling merged. Since then he has worked for Wizzair in Budapest, Spanair in Barcelona and Ryanair throughout Europe. In June, an opportunity arose to be based back in Barcelona where he is now providing management services for Iberia. This has brought him back to working on Vueling aircrafts once again. 1PM I set my alarm, otherwise I could sleep all day. I like to have time to go for a swim most days. If I get home too late this doesn’t always happen. 2PM I have breakfast, but it’s more like brunch. Some days the kids are home for lunch so I catch up with them. I prepare a lunch to take to work then leave. 3PM I arrive at Barcelona El Prat Airport for a 12-hour shift. 4PM I get an update on the status of any out-of-service aircrafts, known as AOGs (Aircraft on Ground). On any given day, there may be up to five AOGs. Each aircraft has a maintenance schedule that must be adhered to, regardless of whether there are any AOGs.

5PM I inspect each plane and review any defects, cross checking the time it will take to repair against the provisional return to service time. 7PM We have an operational meeting every evening to plan the maintenance work on the 45-55 aircraft based in Barcelona, the majority of which belong to Vueling. I review the fleet defects that need to be fixed overnight. 9PM I then make a plan for the engineers. Operational limitation defects have the highest priority. For example, if the weather radar is inoperative, the plane wouldn’t be able to fly in bad weather conditions. It’s imperative to fix this, especially in the case of extreme weather conditions. 11PM I eat when I feel hungry, although it’s usually when I get a free half an hour, so the time varies. I’m not sure whether to call it lunch or dinner, as I only have two meals a day while working at night. I’m fading away! 12AM Following a shift change at 11pm, we distribute the manpower into teams to work on the items planned. There are up to 60 engineers and support staff working at night, so it’s all about planning. We have to be efficient to get the planes back flying by sunrise, in time for their scheduled departure times. 3AM I sign off and go home. I usually wind down with a beer and watch some TV. Then it’s time for bed.

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Illustration by Bruna Valls

TRAVEL

FOLLOW THE PALM TREES CATALAN EMIGRANTS BROUGHT BACK A RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE FROM THE AMERICAS By Garry Gallon

ver since the discovery of the ‘New World’, immigrants from all over Europe have made their way across the Atlantic in search of a better life. Many left hardship behind, such as mass migration during the 1840s, when the insect parasite phylloxera devastated Catalunya’s profitable grapevines. Some found success in their new lands and stayed to build business empires. But for others, the roots tying them to their home country were too strong to ignore. The term ‘indians’ refers to those who emigrated from Catalunya to mostly Latin American countries, especially in the first half of the 19th century. Their influence can still be felt today, thanks to the architectural and cultural contributions of those who came back. Many shared their good fortune with the community and transformed their ancestral homes to incorporate the colonial style, typified by an abundance of arches, interior gardens, and frescoes depicting exotic overseas landscapes. These are commonly known as the cases d’Indians. The architectural legacy of the returning emigrants can be found in port towns all along the coast, and across Catalunya various city councils have joined together to create a network— the Xarxa de Municipis Indians (municipisindians.cat)—which is an excellent source of information and guide to visiting this cultural heritage.

TORREDEMBARRA

The southernmost town on the route was home to many successful businessmen and philanthropists who made their fortunes in the Americas. Their influence is most evident on the street named in honour of Antoni Roig, a famous local who returned to Torredembarra determined to help those he left behind. His greatest legacy was a school originally designed to help the poor and uneducated. Another name remembered in the town is Pere Badia, a successful merchant who made his fortune in 18th-century New Orleans. Following orders left in his will, the Pere Badia Charity Hospital was constructed in 1824, and still serves the community today as a care home for the elderly.

WHAT TO VISIT: Walk along Carrer de Antoni Roig, where many colonialstyle mansions boast large front doors, high ceilings and lush gardens, before passing by Roig’s school on Alt de Sant Pere, which can be recognised by the Masonic stars carved into the facade. Pere Badia’s hospital can be found on the street named after its founder; a single-storey stone building with a Baroque-style chapel and cloistered courtyard, filled with exotic vegetation. WHERE TO STAY: Neighbouring town Calafell boasts its own collection of colonial treasures. Stay at the Hotel Antiga (from €75, antiga.info) a beautifully renovated colonial mansion built by a returning sea captain in 1870. GETTING THERE: From Barcelona Sants, take the Renfe R. Expres train towards Tortosa, approximately 50 minutes. €7 or T-10 (6 Zones)

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SANT PERE DE RIBES

Going north, the next major town on the route, Sant Pere, is brimming with a wealth of well-preserved Indies-inspired architecture and impressive Modernista features, mostly funded by money made in the Americas and sent back by wealthy expatriates based in Cuba, Mexico, Guatemala, Puerto Rico and Brazil.

WHAT TO VISIT: The ornate, terracotta and beige clock tower of the town hall in Plaça de la Vila, and the colourful mosaic–coated fountain in the Plaça de la Font, built to commemorate the introduction of pipe water in the town. Another focal point of the town, the Església Nova in Plaça de l’Església, boasts imposing twin towers that stand above all else around. Carrer del Pi (named after a century-old pine tree), is also full of characteristically ‘Indian’ facades that once housed prosperous merchants. WHERE TO STAY: One of the late 19th-century mansions on Carrer de Palou has been converted into the luxury Palou Boutique Hotel (from €60, palouhotel.com). GETTING THERE: Take the Monbus E-14, which leaves from Ronda de la Universitat 33, direct to Sant Pere de Ribes. Approximately one hour. €4.20 or T-10 (3 zones).

BLANES

Many of the region’s emigrants set sail from the Costa Brava. Around 180 sailboats were constructed in the port of Blanes between 1816 and 1875, many of which ferried residents to seek fortune in the West, and the town went on to boast many elaborate facades and interior murals of American vistas to prove their success. The town’s best remembered prodigal son is Agustí Vilaret, a Blanes-born entrepreneur who travelled to Cuba, Puerto Rico and Argentina and made a mint in sugar production. In 1865, Vilaret returned from a 30-year stay in the Antilles and founded one of the first ever producers of cava, Mont-Ferrant. WHAT TO VISIT: Walk along the seaside promenade, Passeig de Dintre, and you will see a number of colonial-style terraced townhouses, such as Can Massó (no.2) or Ca L’Andreu (no.34), easily identified by their ornate balconies. Another eye-catching building is the triple-tier lemon cheesecake facade of the Escola de la Salut (Santa Bàrbara 1), a school that was founded with the help of contributions sent back from generous ex-residents in Havana, Montevideo and Buenos Aires. Agustí Villaret’s original vineyard can also be visited just outside of the town. GETTING THERE: Take the Renfe R1 train from Sants to Blanes, approximately 90 minutes. €7.60 or T-10 (6 zones).

PALAFRUGELL

The indians from Palafrugell spread themselves far and wide, from Chile, Argentina and Cuba, to Guatemala and New York. This municipality, made up of the inland town of Palafrugell and the adjacent traditional fishing village, Calella de Palafrugell, still bears many marks of the material and cultural wealth that the migrants brought back, and is historically connected to the musical tradition of habaneras.

WHAT TO VISIT: Take in numerous extravagant mansions along Carrer D’Irene Rocas in Palafrugell, such as Can Bassa (no.1), which now serves as a social and cultural centre. Inside, you can even see inscriptions such as ‘Adéu Catalunya’ carved by migrants before their impending journeys. The churches in the district also bear the mark of colonial influence, such as the Església Parroquial de Sant Martí (Caritat 68), which houses a silver-coated altar, or the miniature chapel and lighthouse of Santuari de Sant Sebastià i Far in the adjacent town of Llafranc (Pg. de Pau Casals 64), perched on a cliff, 168m above the water below, and boasting spectacular sea views. WHERE TO STAY: Casa Calella (from €105, casacalella.com) is a small house-hotel in the old town of Calella de Palafrugell whose 19th century indiano architecture has been lovingly restored. GETTING THERE: Take the Sarfa bus from Estació del Nord. Approximately two hours. €18.50.

From top: Escola Antoni Roig, Torredembarra; Casa Vicenç Ferrer Bataller, Begur; Casa Calella, Palafrugell

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BEGUR

Many of the towns on the route commemorate the heritage of the indians with an annual festival, including Torredembarra and Sant Pere (both the second weekend in September). But perhaps the biggest is the annual Fira d’Indians (firaindians.com) in Begur, the hilltop town close to Palafrugell, which takes place during the first weekend of September. The festival pays heritage to the many Begur inhabitants who primarily settled in Cuba and Puerto Rico after the local coral farming trade failed in the mid-19th century.

WHAT TO VISIT: The ornate influence of Begur’s indians is evident in many buildings about town. Carrer de Bonaventura Carreras, just off Plaça de la Vila, has several mansions, each one accompanied by an explanatory plaque. It is worth seeking out Casa de Pere Roger (Bonaventura Carreras 20) and Casa del Senyor Puig (Av. de l’Onze de Setembre 1), both beautiful Caribbean-style villas with porticoed terraces. Have a peek inside the porch of another magisterial mansion, Can Sora (Av. de l’Onze de Setembre 5), and you will be pleasantly surprised to see some well-conserved original frescoes of American landscapes, a reminder of the lifestyle the returning voyagers left behind. WHERE TO STAY: There are two hotels housed in beautifully converted mansions in Begur: the Hotel-Spa Classic (from €110, hotelclassicbegur. com), built in 1857, and the Hotel Aiguaclara (from €85, hotelaiguaclara. com), which is located in Casa Bonaventura Caner i Bataller. GETTING THERE: Take the Sarfa bus from Estació del Nord. Approximately two and a half hours. €19.50.

HABANERAS

The habanera is a musical genre that originated in 19th-century Cuba, where a diverse society of immigrants produced a mix of Latin rhythm with African and European influences. The indians then brought it back to Spain. The songs they sang were full of nostalgic memories of the Americas, and typically performed in a pub or tavern in front of an eager audience. They always follow the same slow pattern of 60 beats per minute, and were originally sung a cappella, although today they are usually accompanied by guitars and accordions. The habaneras tradition is particularly important along the Costa Brava, where an annual festival is held on the beach of Calella de Palafrugell every July. Another lasting tradition associated with the musical performances is ‘cremat’, a hot rum drink made with coffee, sugar, lemon peel and cinnamon. Famous songs: La Bella Lola, La Gavina, La Pimienta, El Meu Avi

FAMOUS FORTUNES

Casa de Pere Roger

JOAN GÜELL I FERRER

MIQUEL BIADA BUNYOL

FACUNDO BACARDÍ

Born in Torredembarra in 1800, Güell i Ferrer was a famous industrialist, politician and economist who moved to Cuba in 1818 and amassed a fortune through his Havana-based import-export company. When Güell returned home, he settled in Barcelona and established the first cotton factory in Spain. A statue of him stands at the crossing of Gran Via and Rambla de Catalunya, and his son, Eusebi, went on to commission many architectural masterpieces by Gaudí.

Born in Mataró in 1789, Bunyol moved to Venezuela in 1808, where he worked as a merchant before becoming involved in the Venezuelan War of Independence. He was captured by insurgents and sent back to Catalunya, but later travelled to Cuba, where he made a fortune exporting cigars. Bunyol returned home and was responsible for the construction of the first railway line on the Iberian Peninsula between Barcelona and Mataró, which was inaugurated on 28th October, 1848.

Facundo Bacardí i Massó was born in 1814 in Sitges, and followed his older brother to Santiago de Cuba. There, Bacardí began experimenting with different ways of distilling rum, which, until then, had been a crude local beverage. The road to success is never smooth, however, and Bacardí had to overcome several crises, including earthquakes, bankruptcy and a cholera epidemic. Nevertheless, Bacardí went on to become one of the world’s most recognisable brands.

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DAY TRIP

CASTELLET I LA GORNAL BIRDWATCHING, WALKING TRAILS AND A MEDIEVAL CASTLE, ALL JUST AN HOUR AWAY By Paul Cannon

ew non-locals have heard of Castellet i la Gornal, a small municipality about an hour’s drive from Barcelona, but there’s much to enjoy here on a day trip. To the south is the serene backdrop of the Foix reservoir, a teeming birdlife sanctuary. To the north and west are the vine-peppered hills of the Alt Penedés, rising towards the dramatic curtain of the Montmell mountains. Perched on a limestone bluff between these two distinct landscapes is the bucolic ancient village of Castellet. Approaching from the direction of Vilanova i la Geltrú, it’s a 14-kilometre drive up the meandering Foix River.

SANT ESTEVE CASTLE Castellet is handsomely dominated by the turrets of one of the finest castles in the province of Tarragona, the Castell de Sant Esteve. During the early period of the Christian Reconquest (around 10th Century), this fortress formed part of the Marca Hispánica, a vast belt of castles ranging from Asturias to the northern Mediterranean, whose objective was to curtail the attacks of Moorish invaders. Reduced to little more than a ghostly ruin by the start of the 20th century, the castle was fortunate enough to attract the attention of Josep de Peray i March, a rich philanthropist, politician and amateur architect from Barcelona. Caught up in the nostalgic spirit of the time, when the Catalan bourgeoisie was captivated by all things medieval, March undertook a painstaking restoration project for the castle, adding a few Modernista flourishes of his own to the interior. Free guided tours (in Catalan) are offered at the weekend between 10am and 2pm. Phone 93 814 45 06 to reserve.

FOIX NATURAL PARK Located inland from the estuary of the same name, the Foix reservoir was constructed at the start of the 20th century, storing water for the irrigation of the Penedès vineyards. It has since become an important biosphere reserve, with over 200 bird species congregating here throughout the year. Even without a pair of binoculars it’s easy to spot majestic grey herons or great cormorants skirting over the surface of the reservoir, or moorhens picking about for algae and seeds in the shallows. Meanwhile, the banks of the reservoir teem with golden plovers, great weed warblers and kingfishers. Walking routes along the banks of the reservoir can be easily accessed from Castellet’s car park.

LUNCH AT EL BARRETET A short walk from the castle at the entrance to the village is El Barretet, a local institution. The walls are festooned with photos of visiting celebrities and decorative headgear—the restaurant’s name means ‘the little hat’. The menu offers modern fare, such as lobster cannelloni and shrimp carpaccio, at affordable prices, and there is a lovely shaded terrace overlooking the reservoir for al fresco dining. Book in advance (93 102 22 69), El Barretet gets extremely busy on weekends.

GETTING TO CASTELLET If you have your own wheels, follow the C-32 to Vilanova i la Geltru, before taking the BV-1225 north along the edge of the reservoir. Alternatively, take the R4 train from Sants to the pretty town of L’Arboç. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to Castellet.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

BLANC CARME RUSCALLEDA OPENS HER SECOND RESTAURANT AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL By Sam Zucker

auded as the only woman in the world to hold a total of seven Michelin stars, chef Carme Ruscalleda expanded her footprint at Barcelona’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel in May 2017 with the opening of Blanc (formerly chef Ángel León’s BistrEau). Blanc is an all-day, elegant but more affordable complement to her two-star fine dining concept, Moments, also within the Mandarin Oriental. I was invited to dine at Moments a few years ago and really enjoyed the experience, though I don’t know if I could have justified the price if I were paying myself. Therefore, when the opportunity came up to try chef Ruscalleda’s modern Catalan cuisine again, but in a less formal setting, I was eager to explore what Blanc had to offer.

Decorated in pristine white, Blanc is an open and bright space with touches of greenery and pastel colour accents that would make this an equally perfect setting for a client lunch, a group meal during a city conference, or an intimate dinner for two. The service is still quite formal, with suit-wearing staff moving quietly around the expansive dining room, serving carefully-paired wines and pushing a classic dessert trolley loaded with cakes, tarts, and meringues between tables as well-heeled guests finish their meals. The ‘classics’ á la carte menu is a surprising blend of cuisines. Club sandwiches and caesar salads represent the realm of classic international hotel fare, pan-Asian dishes like dimsum, pad thai, and ramen pay homage to the Mandarin Oriental’s roots, and Middle Eastern snacks, such as hummus and fattoush, round out a menu that seems to have a little something for everyone. The real draw at Blanc was the more elegant and refined Autumn Tasting Menu; a five-course degustation menu for €59 per person, including dessert but no drinks. There is also a more upscale á la carte menu that includes most of the tasting menu’s dishes, plus about a dozen more. The tasting began with a glass of the house brut cava, specially bottled for Blanc restaurant in Penedès. The champagne-method wine was light and crispy and a touch fruitier than your typical brut cava, and it offered a non-intrusive pairing. We were primed for our meal with a basket of hearty bread and a complementary duo of croquettes; one was a classic croqueta de jamón that was molten hot but rich and delicious, and the other an extracrispy panko-coated bite of beetroot and blue cheese. Both were skillfully prepared and would give anyone unfamiliar with Spanish croquetas a very respectable benchmark for this local staple.

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MORE INFO

Carme Ruscalleda

Passeig de Gràcia 38-40 T. 93 151 8783 Open every day 7am-11pm ✪✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

Photos courtesy of Blanc

After the croquettes came the first course of the tasting menu: a chilled lobster tail dotted with thin rounds of lightly blanched green beans, micro spinach leaves, avocado, and a trio of bell peppers, all dressed in a bright citrus broth and drizzled with rich olive oil to cut the acidity. The flavour was lively, the salt assertive but not overdone, and the lobster was perfectly cooked; a great start. The second dish was an excellent version of a Catalan classic; a melange of sauteéd porcini and chanterelle mushrooms with tender asparagus stalks and crispy fried discs of botifarra negre (black pudding). Rustic in flavour but with the deliberate preparation and presentation one would expect from the kitchen of a chef like Ruscalleda, I made short work of the plate, paired with a crisp, medium-bodied Mâcon Villages chardonnay from Joseph Drouhin. Next arrived my favourite dish of the meal, a meaty morsel of panfried monkfish, served with a ‘Hong Kong Maresme’ sauce, blending the tastes of Hong Kong with ingredients from the Maresme region. Sichuan peppercorns and juicy strawberries formed a sauce that was firetruck red and bursting with ripe berry flavour, smeared beside a dollop of aubergine purée, sticks of daikon (mild radish), and slivers of baby vegetables. I found the pairing of strawberry and monkfish fascinating, and loved every bite. The final course before the desserts was the succulent pluma cut of Iberian pork, glazed with natural pork jus and garnished with a spiced date purée and shaved ribbons of baby courgette. Paired with a simple but bold bottle of 2013 Vizcarra (Ribera del Duero), the pork was expertly-grilled and the date sauce had a subtle touch of sweetness that balanced the deeply savoury pork reduction. This dish felt a bit predictable after the monkfish strawberry surprise, but was still thoroughly enjoyable. Dessert came in the form of an impressive assortment of cakes, tarts and chocolate, though I would have loved the option of a composed dessert to match the elegant style in which the other course of the meal had been presented. The meal as a whole was almost faultless and the service was purely professional. I might not choose this restaurant for a night out with friends but I do think it’s a great option if your goal is to impress without being overly formal, or paying a fortune.

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QUICK BITES

CAFÉ MENSSANA

A HEALTHY MIND AND A HEALTHY BODY GO HAND IN HAND AT THIS VILA OLÍMPICA CAFE By Sam Zucker

MORE INFO

Sardenya 48 www.cafemenssana.com T. 93 624 3505 Open every day 9.30am-11.30pm

uring the busy workweek, it’s all too tempting to settle for the nearest restaurant with a cheap menú del día or wait for a box of stir-fried noodles to arrive via bicycle courier. Though I often take the path of least resistance, I really do feel thankful every time I choose to walk a few blocks from my office for a light and satisfying lunch at Menssana. The restaurant has two floors, with big windows flooding the dining areas with light. Combined with the natural wood tables and design accents, a meal here feels like a breath of fresh air. The sidewalk terrace has a handful of tables, with a short wait at lunch time. The mission of Menssana—whose motto is ‘Eat Good. Feel Good. Do Good’—is to serve local, seasonal and healthy food, with options for vegans, vegetarians and meat eaters alike. Choices include excellent fish tacos, lightly fried with a delicate batter and topped with crunchy cabbage, as well as a slew of burgers and sandwiches—from a classic bacon cheeseburger or BBQ pulled pork on a bun with rocket, to a grilled chicken and basil sandwich or their unique vegan burger made from curried pumpkin and lentils and slathered in vegan alioli.

The earthy, roasted aubergine salad with bulgur wheat, pomegranate seeds, tahini and yogurt sauce is a lighter option, while the roasted chicken with oranges, dates, rosemary and barley salad makes your typical pollo a l’ast with soggy potatoes wither in comparison. The other starters and main courses at Menssana run the gamut from grilled salmon tikka masala and chicken tacos to vegetarian chilli and Thai-style prawn wraps. There is a daily lunch offer that consists of an option of either soup or salad, followed by a choice of three main courses, priced €8.50, though drinks and dessert are not included. The separate breakfast and brunch menu (until 12.30pm) is highlighted by smoothies and juices, various pastries, an avocado and bacon-clad breakfast burger, homemade muesli, fried eggs with smoked salmon or aubergine on naan bread, bathed in spicy harissa, hummus, or crème fraîche. All in all, it’s the little things, like the excellent, crunchy coca flat breads, the variety of hot sauces on the table, the delicious chips dusted in paprika, the coffee from Cafés el Magnífico in the Born, and the welcoming ambience that beckon me from my desk for that brief satisfying stroll.

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food tales

Every great local food business has a story, that’s what makes them unique. Foodie tour guide Misty Barker explores some of Barcelona’s tastiest hidden gems.

BODEGA MAESTRAZGO

veryone has a favourite local shop. For me, that shop is my local bodega. An essential part of local culture and tradition, bodegas often combine a wine shop and bar. Many have been serving communities for generations, such as Bodega Maestrazgo in the Born, which was opened in 1952 by the grandfather of the current owner, José Moliner. This hidden gem is overflowing with character from the moment you enter the barrel-filled shop floor. It offers a vast range of exceptional wines, as well as some of the best gourmet artisan products from across the country. The seating area at the back of the store is surrounded by wine crates, crowded shelves and seemingly endless boxes of limited edition Grenaches and Tempranillos, waiting to be enjoyed with a plate of jamón, expertly carved by Feddy who mans the kitchen area. Ornate wooden tables and rustic wine barrels fill the room, where regulars perch to sample the delicious wines and a lively atmosphere fills the air until late each evening. But it’s the owner and staff that really stand out in this bodega. Their knowledge, passion for what they do and welcoming smiles keep customers coming back for more, and José is always on hand to recommend a wine to the most discerning of tastes. Next door, there is a private tasting room, which hosts regular wine events— the Maestrazgo Wine Club meets here fortnightly, led by sommelier Fintan Kerr (winecuentista.com). Besides a plethora of wines to choose from, there are also the more than acceptable house wines, which can be bought straight from the barrel (a granel). Bodegas may be an age-old tradition, but this one hasn’t lost one drop of its original charm.

MORE INFO

Sant Pere Mes Baix 90 Mon-Sat: 9am-10pm Sun: Closed

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RECIPE

DEVILLED ROAST CHICKEN with chorizo, chestnut & date stuffing (serves four) By Tara Stevens

INGREDIENTS 1 large chicken (1.5-2kg), giblets removed, rinsed and dried well 2-3 cloves garlic, well crushed 1 tsp salt 2 tsp black pepper

2 tsp dry harissa (or mix chilli powder and paprika to taste) Juice of 1 large lemon 1 tbsp olive oil

s Nigella Lawson is fond of saying, you really can’t beat a roast chicken. I live alone and tend to make it on a Sunday with all the trimmings, then live on it for the rest of the week in various guises, ranging from shredded in a salad with escarole and pomegranate seeds, to comforting bowls of udon with broth and an egg, a dhansak (curry with lentils), or a pot pie. But when friends and family come to stay at the Courtyard Kitchen, it feels churlish not to give it a Moroccan twist. This roast chicken is infused with the scents and flavours of the souks and brings a little sunshine to a rainy November day. Bon profit!

IN SEASON

NOVEMBER ESCAROLE, CHESTNUTS, CAQUIS (PERSIMMONS), PLUMS, POMEGRANATES, FIGS, CITRUS, ARTICHOKES, ROOT VEGETABLES

• Mix all the ingredients together and massage well into the chicken. • Leave to marinade for at least an hour or, better yet, overnight.

FOR THE STUFFING 250 g cooking chorizo, meat removed from casings 3 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 large onion, finely minced 1-2 tbsp chopped dates (depending how sweet you like it) 1-2 tbsp chopped chestnuts (buy vacuum-packed in El Corte Inglés) 2 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp cinnamon Olive oil 1. Sauté the onions and garlic in oil (start in cold oil so they don’t burn) over a medium heat until soft and golden. Leave to cool slightly. 2. Combine the rest of the raw ingredients in a bowl with the onions and mix together until well combined.

TO PREPARE THE CHICKEN 3. Pre-heat the oven to 200ºC. 4. Loosely fill the cavity of the marinated chicken with the stuffing (don’t overstuff or it won’t cook properly). 5. Place in a tight fitting tray or casserole, breast side facing down (away from you) and pour over any remaining marinade. 6. Roast for 45 minutes, then remove from the oven and turn over so the breast is facing up. Cook for a further 45 minutes, then remove from the oven and leave to rest for at least 10 minutes before carving, reheating the juices to pour over before you do so.

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her cooking school, the Courtyard Kitchen, in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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10/23/17 1:51 PM

NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

ÁNDELE - EIXAMPLE Part of the Ándele Group, this new, modern restaurant in Barcelona’s Eixample district offers an authentic, traditional Mexican cuisine. It combines traditional recipes with new, continuing to surprise and delight diners, whilst ensuring high quality ingredients for every dish. The restaurant also features an attractive bar, where you can enjoy a full selection of tequilas, mescals and various premium distillates used to create delicious cocktails. Average menu price 20 and lunch menu available from 12.90.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

París 147. 08036 Tel. 93 277 8766 | www.andele.es info@andele.es Mon-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

TOTORA - EIXAMPLE

MENEGHINA4BORN

Authentic Peruvian recipes with cuttingedge cuisine awaits diners at Totora. The restaurant offers a gastronomical journey of Peru with classics such as cebiche, ají de gallina (spicy chicken stew), and the lomo saltado (sautéed beef tenderloin), alongside new, creative dishes concocted by head chef Pablo Ortega. Diners can enjoy Ortega’s menu, infused with tastes of the sea, or can linger at the restaurant’s long bar to enjoy bartenders cultivate tasty cocktails, including the Peruvian classic, pisco sour. Menu of the day available from 17.50.

Located on a quaint side street close to the convent of Sant Agusti in El Born, Meneghina offers an exciting and innovative combination of Italian and Catalan flavours, tempting desserts and an extensive selection of wines in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh seasonal produce, which changes on a daily basis.

Tiradors 2 I T. 93 119 2221 hola@meneghina.es I www.meneghina.es www.facebook.com/meneghinas Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm

Còrsega 235, 08036 Tel. 93 667 4372 Mon-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11.30pm

CAFÉ MENSSANA4CIUTAT VELLA At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options, created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere. Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm www.facebook.com/menssanabarcelona

FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

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BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA Blacklab have a huge range of American Style craft beers made on premises with a Minnesotan brewer. They experiment with their brews like a beer lab. They have four beers all year around, 16 rotating seasonals. Their beer is poured directly from the tanks and you won’t find anything fresher. Their kitchen is non stop and doesn’t close during opening hrs. They serve tasty American Food with Asian touch. Beer tour and beer tasting with their brewers every Sunday at 17h. Also available for big groups at any day.

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

10/23/17 2:47 PM

BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Indian / Tandoori BAR CENTRO4 EIXAMPLE

NICE SPICE4POBLENOU

Bar Centro offers a unique experience when you indulge in one of their burgers. 40-day aged beef of Galician ‘Vaca Vieja’ cooked on the grill is a must-try. Eight craft beer taps go hand in hand with their gastronomic proposal. Don’t miss all four versions of their pulled pork, the homemade nachos, the chilli or the bravas! Everything is handcrafted.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food ,which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.

Casp 55. 08010 Metro Tetuan/ Urquinaona Tel. 93 192 5255 www.barcentrobcn.com barcentrobcn@gmail.com Mon-Wed 1pm-11pm Thurs-Fri 1pm-11.30pm Sat 8pm-12am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Open everday 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm

BRITTA’S NORDIC DELI4GRÀCIA

D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has a night for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed | www.brittas.es

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am | www.foodiesbarcelona.es

Vegetarian/Vegan GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded over 30 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

Food & drink NOV 2017.indd 45

A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables and homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.90, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.80. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

10/23/17 2:47 PM

LOIDI RESTAURANT4 EIXAMPLE

TAP DE SURO4EIXAMPLE

Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.

Tap de Suro is an intimate place dedicated entirely to the world of wine. Here you can experience delicious Mediterranean meals accompanied with an authentic wine collection. They offer a diverse menu of Catalan wines and cavas, ranging from local Spanish grapes to the best international wines. They also provide a sales service in which they can advise you in finding the perfect flavour for every occasion.

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Mallorca 202, 08008 Tel. 93 461 4853 info@tapdesuro.com Mon-Sat 12pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm

MALPASO4EIXAMPLE This restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend. Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am

CHICKEN SHOP & DIRTY BURGER4 BARRI GÒTIC Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 christian@chickenshop.com Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am www.chickenshop.com www.eatdirtyburger.com

Food & drink NOV 2017.indd 46

FOR THE BEST BARS, CAFES, AND RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE A-Z DIRECTORY

10/23/17 2:47 PM

HEALTH &BEAUTY

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Feel conﬁdent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers, and is also certiﬁed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040

Dr. J. E Batista - UROLOGIST

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY

Dr. Jose E Batista is a specialist in Urology who trained in the UK and the USA. Together with his team (Uroclinica Barcelona), he covers all the ﬁelds of Urology, with special interest in prostatic diseases, laser surgery, enuresis (bed wetting) and urinary incontinence. The team has worked at Centro Médico Teknon since 1996 and also offer specialists in pediatric urology, as well as English speaking physiotherapists for pelvic ﬂoor disorders.

The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of surgical dermatology and venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efﬁcient and accessible care, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics.

Vilana 12, Ofﬁce 24, Consult. Marquesa, C M Teknon T. 93 390 6940 Valencia 247, Barcelona Central Ofﬁce T. 93 390 671 info.urologia@gmail.com www.teknon.es/web/batista

Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working in the health industry and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a ﬁve-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme. ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464 / 93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

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Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their extensive experience, allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in dental aesthetics, and orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults. She is certiﬁed by the Invisalign system.

Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Platinum Provider

Dr. Alistair Gallagher -

Goldie Uttamchandani -

DENTIST

LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH

The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certiﬁed Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary ﬁrst session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness.

READER OFFER FREE CONSULTATION

M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual proﬁle. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The ﬁrst consultation is free.

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a foreign country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of ﬁrst-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

NEW ADDRESS Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

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50% DISCOUNT ON 1ST VISIT

Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

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Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST

Barcelona Quiropractic - CHIROPRACTOR

Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difﬁcult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session.

Barcelona Quiropractic and its professional team have been serving the Barcelona community since 1995. They value quality service, efficiency and dedication, delivering the best results in the shortest time possible. The team provides a professional, yet friendly and family-oriented environment, catering to a wide range of patients. They aim to promote the integration of chiropractic into your lifestyle, to maintain health and wellbeing. Contact them for more information. Pl. Urquinaona 7, 08010 T. 93 412 3433 M. 601 059 849 info@barcelonaquiropractic.es www.barcelonaquiropractic.es

M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 T. 93 487 46 66 psicologia@canvis.net www.canvis.net

Yoga con Gracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will ﬁnd a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com

READER OFFER

Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA Bikram Yoga has two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, their international team brings over 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, Pral, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281 www.bikramyoga.es

Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre, located in the Sants district, is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162 janethsola@gmail.com www.janethsola.com Craniosacral Institute - OSTEOPATHY The institute provides services in Craniosacral Osteopathy, SomatoEmotional Release, and Massage Rebalancing, working holistically. The Institute delivers over 22 years’ experience of individual sessions to adults, children and babies. M. 689 786 519 / 639 775 218 www.craneosacral-panizo.com/en/ www.terapias-adam.com/en/

Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, REFLEXOLOGY, MASSAGE Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506 benedictetaillard@gmail.com www.reﬂexologybarcelona.com www.barcelonahipnoterapia.com

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

READER OFFER

Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST & COACH

Symmetry Pilates - PILATES

Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information

Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Most of the day we are sitting down at our computers, or in our cars. But, have you ever asked yourself whether you are sitting properly? Most back pain starts from the way we sit and from sitting for too long. Learn to sit correctly and your quality of life will improve. Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the beneﬁt is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this trendy new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage.

Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073 info@symmetry.cat www.symmetry.cat

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READER OFFER

República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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Oliver Dawson CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.

Georgina Weinstein VOICE COACH Georgina offers “Tone of Voice Coaching” to speakers, teachers, executives, singers, coaches, and anyone who wants to improve their abilities to communicate clearly.This includes techniques to achieve more volume, pitch, stage presence and conﬁdence while practicing texts, songs and/or subjects that interest the student. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their conﬁdence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English.

Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

FREE REJUVENATING ROSEHIP MASK

M. 626 255 792 info@georginaweinstein.com www.georginaweinstein.com

Tàctum - HAIR SALON

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE What is Japanese Facelifting Massage? Japanese Facelifting Massage uses a sequence of massage techniques which act as a natural face lift with no need for surgery, helping make you look and feel younger. This combination of techniques helps improve the complexion, remove toxins from the face, prevent and remove facial wrinkles, reduce and release any muscle tension in the face and jaw. Facelift Massage is to help prolong natural, true health and beauty, and to prevent disease. It makes you feel fantastic. Special discounted packs! M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Located in Gràcia, this friendly and welcoming salon has everything you need to feel special. They work together with clients to create a look that reﬂects their individual style and personality. They are experts in curly hair, hair colouring and above all the use of progressive vegetable hair dye, which harnesses the purity of water. They can also advise you on the cut that best suits you.

10% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Torrent de L’Olla 85 (Metro Joanic) T. 93 217 9316 tactum@tacum.cat Tues-Thurs 10.30am-8.30pm Fri-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm www.tactum.es

Heaven - MASSAGE Ready to feel fantastic for spring? Time to say ‘Adiós’ to muscular tension and stress? Interested in organic, 100% fresh, products based on Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, and European herbal ‘pharmacy’? Let American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis draw on 15 years of experience and training to soothe you with deep therapeutic massage in conveniently located studios or in your home!

FREE REFLEXOLOGY TREATMENT WITH ORGANIC PRODUCTS

M. 639 533 523 carrielewisbcn@gmail.com facebook.com/heavenbarcelona www.HeavenlyEco-Boutique.com

Lovecycle - FITNESS LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating ﬁtness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!

FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING HEALTH & BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Doctors - Dentists - Psychologists Chiropractors - Therapists Yoga - Pilates Reﬂexology - Massage Fitness - Hair salons

Via Augusta 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149 hello@love-cycle.com www.love-cycle.com

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BUSINESS SERVICES

Barcelona Accounting BuSINeSS SeRvICe Need help with your small business finances? Barcelona Accounting can create an efficient financial system for a start-up or existing business, convert you to a modern cloud accounting solution, organise and/or update your bookkeeping, manage your compliance and run financial analysis to help grow your business.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

AFT IURE LEGA L ABOGADOS LAWYERS RECHTSANWÄLTE

READER OFFER

M. 670 405 727 info@bcnaccounting.com www.bcnaccounting.com

AFT IURE LEGAL -

Spain Accounting-

LAWYeRS

TAX & BuSINeSS SeRvICeS

Albert forment offers legal services to the Barcelona community in english, German and french. He specialises in civil, criminal and tax law, but extends his practice to other areas, such as family, administrative, employment, and real estate. Drawing from a wealth of experience, forment ensures reliability and clarity for clients, and holds sincerity and honesty at the core of his services. Contact him today for a free introductory in-house consultation.

Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service

M. 616 614 764 T. 93 321 11 55 btforment@gmail.com www.aftiure.com/

Contact David Cook on M. 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

READER OFFER Klev & Vera - LAW fIRm

Sánchez Molina LeGAL PRACTICe

This firm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. It understands that starting a business in a foreign country can be daunting, especially in Spain, where the system is complicated and taxes can be a hindrance. This is where their experience in advising international clients how to set up businesses in Spain can help you make smarter decisions, saving you thousands of euros in the long term.

The lawyers at Sánchez molina speak english, Spanish, Italian and french. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

They have a multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: Real estate, Business Set up, Spanish Residency, family Law, Litigation, Tax Planning. Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com

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Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

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NIE Barcelona

Corsa International -

- BuSINeSS

DRIvING SCHOOL

NIe Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIe for eu and NON-eu citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in english. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

Master Cerrajeros

PWN Barcelona - NON PROfIT PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certified virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.

Locked out? Master Cerrajeros are english-speaking specialists who provide emergency lock replacement services at competitive rates, 24/7. They work with locks for metal shutters, automatic systems, safety doors, security systems, fences and balconies, access control and more.

www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/

M. 607 886 622 www.mastercerrajeros.com

Act Habitat - ARCHITeCTS

Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROfIT

They can help…

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women. • Approx. 200 members from 20+ countries. • As a social club that supports local organisation, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and networking & promotional opportunities. We help women thrive in Barcelona.

Create your perfect living or work space. Get the most out of your investment. Acheive a healthy and sustainable environment. Deal with paperwork and permits. manage the building works and costs. Choose the best firm for the job. Coordinate with the neighbours. Get in touch for more information.

Avinyó 6, 1º 2ª, 08002 T. 93 318 7121 info@act-habitat.com www.act-habitat.com

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LOCKSMITH

Supported charities 2016 - 2018 membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

Handyman - HOme SeRvICeS

Geo Mac - COmPuTeRS

mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

George Cowdery is a freelance mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

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BCN Seguros - INSuRANCe This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, english and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

Coccinelle - PRIvATe STAff

Yacht Point Barcelona - SAILING SCHOOL

ReCRuITmeNT Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and surrounding areas. Their expertise and rigorous selection method ensures they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent and temporary positions, where over 700 families have trusted in their services. Call them today and quote ‘metropolitan’ for a free consultation. Pau Claris 151 T. 93 010 9758 info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com

Yacht Point RYA Training Centre is a leading provider of online navigation theory courses & sailing tuition in Barcelona. They offer: - Online navigation theory courses & Sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. Their courses are suitable for complete beginners to advanced sailors. ‘We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!’

T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com http://yachtpointbcn.com/en/rya-training-centre/

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

#mrsqdesignstudio Patricia Ayodeji - LAWYeR

Mrs.Q Design Studio - GRAPHIC DeSIGN

A native english-speaking lawyer, Patricia also offers her services in english, Spanish and Catalan. She is dual-qualified in Civil Law and Common Law, and is registered with many different embassies and governmental departments, as well as being a member of the Law Society of england & Wales and the Barcelona Bar Association. Her 16 years’ experience have allowed Patricia to work in many different areas of law. These include international services, company law, internet law, data protection,privacy, e-commerce, new technology, intellectual property, trademarks, litigation, and acquisition and disposal of residential property. Contact Patricia by email to make an appointment.

mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. mrs. Q designs bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Their designs are inspired by watercolour paintings merged with contemporary design. If you would like a custom painting, designed especially for you, they can create a design that you’re sure to love. visit their etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/mrsQdesignstudio.

Central Barcelona info@e-pdp.eu www.e-pdp.eu

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mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

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Oak House - SCHOOL

BCN L.I.P. - LANGuAGe SCHOOL

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in english, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, english, french, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com

CiberVirreina - COmPuTeR SeRvICe Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATeLLITe Tv Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Ibex - INSuRANCe SeRvICeS Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com

Connecta Languages - TRANSLATORS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualified linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact them today and say goodbye to language barriers.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

Yan Pekar - PHOTOGRAPHeR Photography for corporate events and portraits. Yan creates meaningful photography based on his ability to see beyond the obvious. His engaging photos capture key moments in a discrete way. Based in Barcelona. Working worldwide. • Back-up kit. • Next day delivery. • Guaranteed results under low lighting. • Reliable. Responsible. On time.

M. 635 296 600 contact@yanpekar.photography www.yanpekar.photography

FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING BUSINESSES IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Lawyers - Accountants - Language schools Business schools - Computer technicians Real estate - Insurance - Electricians Plumbers - Graphic design Driving schools - Sailing schools Babysitting services - Translators International schools - Printing services

M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages.com

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JOB

DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our fREE ClassIfIEDs

www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

COACHING COLUMN

SAM SAYS... BOOKWORMS GET AHEAD Dear Sam, I recently started a new job in a management position. I’m excited yet extremely nervous, as this is my first venture into the world of management. I’ll have 20 direct reports and will have to give daily briefings to the CEO of the company. I think the job will be a huge career boost and a challenge that I’m ready to tackle, I just want to make sure I’m as equipped and prepared as possible. I find what usually helps me is reading, so I was wondering if you could recommend any good books on management or any insightful reading material on how to best succeed. Thanks so much, Salvation through reading

Hi Salvation through reading, Congratulations on the new job! As daunting as it may seem, it’s great that you’re looking at it as a useful and insightful learning opportunity. You’re right—books are an excellent way to gain knowledge and learn. Warren Buffet, business investor and philanthropist, said he dedicates 80 percent of his day to reading. “That’s how knowledge works. It builds up, like compound interest,” said Buffet. Firstly, I’d like to suggest one more idea in addition to reading: find someone who’s got previous experience in the position you’ll be taking on and pick their brain. You might have already done this, but if not, it never hurts to speak to someone who’s ‘been there done that’ and ask them what worked and what they wish they had done better. Over the years, I’ve compiled a list of books which have helped me and my clients. Here are a few of my favourites: What got you here won’t get you there (2011) By Marshall Goldsmith To say that in some ways this book changed my life would not be an exaggeration, and it has greatly impacted the lives of those I work with. This is a book for successful people who want to become even more successful. Goldsmith challenges us to take a closer look at what we’ve been doing and how we’ve been acting up until this point in our lives. It begs the question: Is this still serving me? Just because something has gotten you this far in your career, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s going to take you as far as you want to go. The Go Giver (2015) By Bob Burg The main message in this book is that in order to get ahead you need to come from a place of serving. Burg uses a fictional character to illustrate his five laws of stratospheric success, the idea being that the more you give, the more you get back. The lessons are insightful, easy to understand and have transformed the way managers work with employees and organisations. Managing for Happiness (2016) By Jurgen Appelo Appelo’s main theme is to manage the system and not the people, focusing on creating an atmosphere for people to thrive, rather than trying to control everything from the top down. It’s also full of practical tools and useful practices you can implement with your teams. Appelo even created an experimental company to try out ideas, called Happy Melly.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www.blueprintcoaching.ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

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OUT AND ABOUT INTERVIEW

STARTUP GRIND SUMMIT UPS ESPAI VÉRTEX. OCTOBER 10TH

caterina Ferrara, JoSe mª coBo

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INTERNATIONS TURNS 10 FAIRMONT REY JUAN CARLOS I. OCTOBER 7TH

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