Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 211 by Barcelona Metropolitan

AUGUST 2014 Nº 211 Free

Evicting Can Vies Tensions rise over the city’s occupied buildings

Costa Brava coves

BYE BYE AIRBNB? The future of home sharing in Barcelona

PART TWO OF OUR GUIDE TO the coast’s best calas

A holistic approach Gaining health through yoga and pilates

MODERNISTA ROUTES 01 cover.indd 1

Fashion

pullout calendar

restaurant reviews

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CONTENTS AUGUST 2014 Regulars 06 08 09 10 34 36 50

New in Town In the City Recipe A Place of My Own Travel Food & Drink Interview

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Editor Esther Jones Assistant Editor Daniel Whitehead Art Director Aisling Callinan

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell

Music Art Best of the Rest Pullout August Calendar

Sales Assistant Martijn Bronder Editorial Assistant Dale Hart Design Assistant Andrea López Contributors Anthony Baines, Polly Casson, Chris Finnigan, Miguel Hudin, Carol Moran, Tara Stevens, Daniel Whitehead

Features

13 Fashion Our pick of the best this month 14 REPORT: The battle over Airbnb Christopher Finnigan looks at the future of home sharing in Barcelona. 28 A holistic approach The changing face of yoga and pilates in the city. 30 The Can Vies effect Although illegal, many local residents are supporting the city’s okupas. 33 Off the beaten track Forget the usual suspects and head to one of the newly-opened Modernista buildings.

Cover image Andrea López Photographers Andrea López, Sam Zucker, Aimee McLachlan Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Directories Food & Drink Business Shopping Jobs

Depósito legal: B35159-96

contributors

40 43 48 49

POLLY CASSON

Christopher Finnigan

ANTHONY BAIN

Raised on the Isle of Man, Polly studied at The Royal College of Art in London. Discovering a passion for Bollywood dance, she began training as a dance teacher. She came to Barcelona in 2009 to work with creative professionals and this reignited her passion for journalism. Barcelona equals happiness for Polly, who says, “This city allows you to express yourself creatively and find your individual niche.”

Christopher is a freelance journalist originally from the UK and now based in Barcelona. He is a reader and book reviewer for the Barcelona Review and he blogs for El País. He holds an Msc in Political Philosophy from the London School of Economics and before moving to Barcelona he worked for two years as a parliamentary researcher for a Labour MP in Westminster. You can follow him here: @chrisjfinnigan

Anthony Bain studied at the London School of Journalism and currently writes articles for several travel magazines including regular features for the Expeditioner Magazine and the Lowestoft Chronicle. Anthony has just recently discovered the concept of running as a new form of Barcelona urban exploration and as a result has discovered places way off the normal spectrum.

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06 IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN MuM’s tHE Word Gemma and Lili met in New York back in 2007 and have recently set up shop in Barcelona. Mother is their new cold pressed juice store, situated on Joaquim Costa in the heart of the Raval. For those of you unacquainted, cold pressing extracts the highest quality juice through hydraulic pressure, maintaining virtually all of the vitamins, minerals, enzymes and other vital nutrients in the fruits and vegetables. They also offer unique smoothies to order, medicinal energy shots, vegetable milks and a generous variety of raw and vegan snacks. The concept has proved popular in the UK and US and it’s as healthy as it could possibly get. Just don’t get distracted by the kebab and hotdog shops on your way. Mother. joaquim Costa 26 www.motherbcn.com

tHE ultiMatE sElFiE ForEVEr aNd EVEr, raMEN Friends Mark and Ross worked together in one of Dublin’s most famous Japanese restaurants and came to Barcelona ﬁve years ago with the intention of opening a restaurant here. They teamed up with Swedish chef Robert and after much debate decided that Ramen was the direction they wanted to take, and boy did they get it right. Tucked away on one of the Gótic’s quieter streets is newly opened Koku Kitchen, offering a calm and friendly environment with exceptional food. Wash it down with their homemade lemonade and you certainly won’t be disappointed. Koku Kitchen. Carabassa 19 www.kokukitchen.es

It’s certainly been a triumphant year for the selﬁe and this new store in Carrer Ample takes the snap-happy hobby one step further. Using the wonders of 3D printing, LABS3D produces full-body human replicas that range from just 6cm to 28cm in height. The products are printed directly in colour, producing an impressively clean and life-like result. Prices range from around €100 to €270. They make for great gifts and even more interesting travel companions, so go and have someone you love made into minature, even if it is yourself. labs3d, ample 12 www.labs3d.com

a CuliNarY raValutioN Arume is the newest addition to the Raval’s eclectic restaurant scene. Galician friends Carlos and Rubén are part of the team that brought us the Tripadvisor sensation Cera 23, currently voted 10th best restaurant in the city. These passionate gallegos joined forces with friends Eduardo and Rocio to create Arume, and are well on their way to building another iconic eatery in the city. Situated on the Carrer de Botella, just a stone’s throw from Cera 23, they offer an Atlantic-inspired menu and some of the ﬁnest cocktails the city has to offer. Designed and furnished by Vinçon’s very own Antonio Iglesias, there’s plenty to feast your eyes on as you indulge in their signature dish of octopus and a mouthwatering raspberry mojito. Warm, friendly service and a great atmosphere, this place is certainly one to look out for. arume. botella 11-13 www.facebook.com/arumerestaurant

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Arume’s proud owners (from left) Eduardo, Rubén, Carlos and Rocio have big hopes for their new restaurant in the Raval.

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dive straight in

IN THE CITY 07

Don’t just sweat it out at the beach this August. Cool off in one of the city’s outdoor pools.

CEM Parc de la Ciutadella Located on the edge of the Ciutadella park, this municipal gym has a decking area, complete with open air pool and sun loungers. A day entry also allows you to use the gym, indoor pool and sauna. Passeig de Circumval·lació 1. Open Mon-Fri, 7am-11pm. Sat & Sun, 8am-8pm. €15 for one-day entry. Children 6-14 €7. Five and under, free. Club Natació Atlètic-Barcelona A Barcelona classic, this club with sea views in the Barceloneta was founded in 1913. There are two outdoor pools, one for serious lengths and the other for children and general cooling off. Relax on a sun lounger with one smug eye on the crowded beach just over the fence. Pl. del Mar. Open Mon-Fri, 6.30am-11pm. Sat, 7am-11pm. Sun, 8am-8pm. Adults €12.19. Children 4-10 €7.08. Children under three €3.76. Piscina Municipal de Montjuïc The 25-metre pool and diving pools were built for the diving events of the 1992 Olympics. It’s not plush but it does have a spectacular panoramic view of Barcelona. Miramar 31. Open every day, 11am-6.30pm. Adults €€6.49. Children 6-14 €€4.47. Children five and under, free. Piscines Bernat Picornell This pool complex on Montjuïc was built in the seventies for the European swimming championships and refurbished for the 1992 Olympics. There are two 50-metre pools, one inside and the other open air. Day entry gives you access to all facilities including the gym, jacuzzi and sauna. Av. de l’Estadi 30. Open Mon-Sat, 9.30am-8.30pm. Sun, 10am7pm. Adults €11.84. Young people (15-24) €7.97. Children 6-14 €€7.29. Five and under, free. Torre de les Aigües This is a great place for kids (and parents) to let off some steam. Known as the “Eixample beach”, the Torre de les Aigües offers a knee-high pool to splash in and a sandy play area. There are benches but no sun loungers, so pack a thick towel. Roger de Llúria 56. Open 10am-8pm (3pm on Sundays). Entry €1.55. Babies under one, free. Parc de la Creueta del Coll The Creueta del Coll is an urban oasis, home to a large lake that transforms into a shallow pool in the summer. Add in a grassy area and some palm trees and you pretty much have a slice of heaven on a sticky August day. Pg. Mare de Déu del Coll 77. Open 10am-9pm. Adults €€6. Children 3-16 €€3.80. Two and under, free.

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08 IN THE CITY

the informer Luxury hotel in the Torre Agbar The Barcelona water company, Agbar, will be moving out of its emblematic headquarters, the Torre Agbar in Pl. de les Glòries. Emin Capital has paid 150 million euros to transform the emblematic building, designed by Japanese architect Isozaki, into a luxury hotel. Barcelona’s Gallery Weekend The city will soon have its own Gallery Weekend, an event that has been celebrated in Berlin, Paris and New York for many years. The weekend will be a celebration of art, activities, performances and talks and will take place in September, 2015. Port Olímpic residents demand more security Residents of the Port Olímpic claim the area has seen a sharp rise in vandalism, fighting and prostitution. They associate this with the growing number of bars and clubs that open in the summer months, along with an insufficient police presence. Barcelona ranking high Between 2009 and 2013 Barcelona was rated the sixth most powerful city brand and the tenth city worldwide for international investment. According to the report published by the Barcelona Chamber of Commerce, the city also ranks seventh for best future perspectives, fourth for international congresses and 11th for scientific research. Plans to reduce traffic on the Ramblas The Ajuntament is looking at making the Ramblas a pedestrian zone via a gradual reduction of traffic. Discussions and negotiations are underway with local businesses and entities to plan the future of the city’s most emblematic street. Sports theme park to open on Montjuïc Plans have been announced to open a sports theme park on Montjuïc. With an investment of 20 million euros, the park would use the existing infrastructure to offer visitors interactive sporting experiences. The park is scheduled to open in 2015 and will stay open from April until October.

Check out our Friday Informer for a weekly news roundup. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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TAKE TO THE SHADE WHEN THE AUGUST RAYS GET A LITTLE TOO HOT FOR COMFORT, CHECK OUT THESE PLACES AROUND THE CITY CAFE D’ESTIU, MUSEU FREDERIC MARÈS Tucked discreetly behind the cathedral, the Museu Frederic Marès is housed in an outstanding Gothic building. Between April and September you can enjoy a refreshing drink at their Cafe d’Estiu in the cool and very peaceful courtyard. Plaça de Sant Iu 5

EL JARDÍ Hidden in the gothic gardens of the old Hospital de la Santa Creu in the Raval is El Jardí tapas bar. Surrounded by thick stone walls that drown out the sounds of the city, it’s a great spot to unwind with a glass of wine, some seasonal tapas and ambient music. C/ de l’Hospital 56

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE EMILIA,

28, Administrative Assistant, Sweden I don’t think Airbnb is a bad idea at all, nor do I believe that it is damaging to the hotel industry. If anything it may encourage the hotels and other accommodation services to up their game and provide something Airbnb are unable to offer. I’m not sure what though.

BIERGARTEN

MESCLADIS

During the summer months the Princesa Sofia hotel recreates a little bit of Bavaria in Barcelona. Wooden terraces, traditional German music, staff in traditional costumes, authentic German beers and of course plenty of pretzels and sausages. Plaça de Pius XII 4

Situated in the heart of the Born, Mescladis is not easy to find twice. This social project in an Aladdin’s cave-like setting is a great place to spend some time with a book and a cool drink. They also have a generous ecological menu in case you get peckish. Carders 35

EL CAFÉ DEL GALLERY

EL BAR DE L’ANTIC TEATRE

Part of the Gallery Hotel on Roselló, this cafe is set in a small, secluded passageway next to the Palau Robert gardens. Your cool afternoon tipple and snack can be followed by a stroll in the park which holds frequent art exhibitions. Roselló 249

This open space forms part of the l’Antic Teatre, just a stone’s throw away from the Palau de la Música. It’s not the poshest of venues, but this cheap and cheerful beer garden is well shaded under vegetation, and is ideally located right in the city centre. Verdaguer i Callís 12

AIRBNB, GOOD IDEA OR BAD IDEA? ROSIE, 24, Teacher, England I think it’s a fantastic idea. Holiday accommodation, including hostels can be so expensive nowadays, it’s nice to have a potentially cheaper alternative. Rent is this city in particular is not cheap, so it’s good that people can get a bit of money back if they’re away from their apartment during the summer, or haven’t yet ﬁlled an available room in their shared home.

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IN THE CITY 09

RECIPE SANCOCHO

By Tara Stevens

Sancocho is a brightly-flavoured fish dish served all over the Canary Islands. It works equally well baked in the oven or grilled on the barbecue. Serve with a plain green salad with lots of avocado. Serves four INGREDIENTS · 1 large sea bass or bream, gutted and scaled · Large handful fresh mint leaves · 1 tbsp olive oil · 500g small, new potatoes · 2-3 tbsp sea salt For the Mojo Verde · 200ml extra virgin olive oil · 150ml white wine vinegar · 6-10 cloves garlic · 1 large handful fresh coriander (washed, roughly chopped) · 1 teaspoon sea salt · ½ teaspoon of cumin Place the garlic, cumin, vinegar and salt in a blender and puree until finely chopped. On a slower speed mix in the coriander leaves and olive oil until you get the consistency of ketchup. For the Mojo Rojo · 200ml extra virgin olive oil · 150ml white wine vinegar · 6-10 cloves garlic · 1-3 mid-sized fresh chillies, seeds removed · ½ teaspoon of cumin · ½ teaspoon of paprika · 1 teaspoon sea salt Place all of the ingredients, except the olive oil, in a blender and purée until you have a smooth paste. Slowly add the olive oil to get an emulsion towards the end. METHOD Heat oven to 200ºC. Sprinkle the fish with salt and stuff the mint leaves into the cavity. Place the fish on a baking pan and drizzle with oil. Add the potatoes to a pan of very salty water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain most of the water from the pot and sprinkle on another layer of salt until it crystallises. Turn off the heat and cover the pot with a tea towel for five minutes so that the potato skins go wrinkly. While the potatoes are cooking, bake the fish until crisp and brown on the outside, succulent and opaque—but not dry—in the middle 30-40 minutes for large fish). Serve the fish on a serving platter surrounded by the potatoes with the mojo sauces on the side.

ANDREA

21, Student, Spain I think it’s a great idea as it provides an oppportunity to meet people you would never meet by staying in a hotel. As well as the positive aspect regarding cost, I’m sure people leave the city with a lot more local knowledge than they would have necessarily gained otherwise.

JALIL,

46, Marketing and Account Executive, Morocco It’s a good idea, but I’m not sure it undercuts the hotel industry. It needs to be properly regulated to ensure no major damage is being done. I think it’s more aimed at the younger generation anyway. If anything it could be a threat to the hostel industry.

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10 A PLACE OF MY OWN

Eixample living Fiona and Phil enjoying their outdoor space which is filled with plants and flowers.

Phil and fiona’s family home is rich in market treasures.

nglish-born Phil and Irish-born Fiona first met at a work conference in Prague. Ten years of marriage, two children and a dog later, they now call this spacious and charismatic apartment in the Eixample their family home. They moved into the first-floor apartment about a year and a half ago, having lived on the top floor since arriving in Spain in 2011. Phil explains that what we see now is the result of months of restoration (still in progress) and retiling undertaken by the couple themselves. Their home is furnished with interesting and eyecatching pieces, and Phil’s passion for secondhand markets is clear from the wealth of intriguing items throughout. The couple are quick to say that very few of the items came with a hefty price tag. Phil explains, “I’m obsessed with the Encants flea market. We’ve bought most of the things there and I’ve picked up some bargains. As a salesman myself, haggling and negotiating come with the trade.” Some of the couple’s favourite pieces include the drinks bar and television unit (see left). “We have very similar tastes, so decorating the apartment hasn’t been that painful. We know what we like, and luckily we almost always agree over the choices,“ says Fiona. The apartment itself is large and has many of the original features common to Eixample homes, in particular the wonderful high ceilings, some of which boast detailed craftmanship. Upon entry, the striking blue-tiled floors (laid by Phil himself) and the contrasting dark wood entice you in to explore more. The wall in the long hallway features the family’s photo collection, all mounted in different frames and set within a gigantic, gold frame. There’s generous outdoor space and, as Phil and Fiona love to entertain, the terrace to the rear of the building is perfect for welcoming guests. Filled with potted plants and colour, it’s certainly not the kind of space you expect to find in a city centre property. “Not many people have a garden shed in Barcelona,” Phil chuckles. Phil and Fiona are still in the process of transforming this property into the place of their dreams, and it already exudes style, intrigue and warmth. We can only imagine what the finished product will look like.

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A PLACE OF MY OWN 11 The gallery located at the back of the property, is light yet cool, with leafy views out onto the rear terrace.

The entrance hall is bright and airy, and is the perfect introduction to this tasteful home.

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FASHION 13

INFASHION Bright summer style we’re lusting over.

This month we head up to Gràcia. SHOP Macson Gran de Gràcia 94

Watch €59.50 Shoes €29.95

SHOP Zoa

SHOP Furest

Astúries 49

Bracelet €16

Gran de Gràcia 42

Swimshorts €49

SHOP Libel-Lula Carrer Montseny 45

Dress €39.90

Our pick

STREET STYLE Augustina, 27 Visiting all the way from Argentina, Augustina takes inspiration from favourite brand Aynotdead where her white capri-style jeans are from. Her top is from H&M and her shoes are Nike.

SHOP Systemaction

Naomi, 20

Gran de Gràcia 45

Canadian fashion blogger Naomi has an eye for vintage; a discarded item from someone else’s wardrobe will find a happy home here. Naomi sticks to her trend with this outfit. Only her ethnicprint trousers come from a major brand—Denim Wearhouse. You can follow Naomi at: www.fashionismyreligion.com

Swimsuit €44.90

Natalie, 23 Natalie loves Brandy Melville. The rock chic style t-shirt, skinny jeans and vintage bag all have Melville’s name. Did we mention she works there too? The Swede is working short-term in Barcelona and loves the international style the city exudes.

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SHOP Misako

SHOP Calzedonia Gran de Gràcia 127

Gran de Gràcia 174

Bag €18.98

Jumpsuit €30

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FEATURE

THE BATTLE OVER AIRBNB

The July rally in Pl. Sant Jaume united 600 people in support of Airbnb.

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FEATURE 15

HOME SHARING IS BIG BUSINESS IN THE CITY BUT NOT EVERYONE WELCOMES IT. By ChrisTOPHER Finnigan. Photos by ANDREA LOPEZ.

he battle to be able to share your apartment with some of the eight million tourists visiting Barcelona this year is on: the authorities are pursuing some hosts with a 2007 law that sanctions fines of between €9,000 and €90,000, and hosts are uniting to call for transparent and fair legislation. The sharing website, Airbnb, is at the centre of this fight. It lists the Catalan capital as its fourth (sometimes third) most popular city, behind New York, London and Paris. Unregulated, yet widely used; reported as a nuisance by some but seen as an invaluable source of income by others, Airbnb is a focal part of the emerging sharing economy, but just how is it affecting Barcelona? The benefits to the city seem huge: 4,000 hosts have given bed and board to approximately 170,000 guests, and in just one year the site estimates this activity has generated $175 million and 4,000 jobs. According to the website's research, Airbnb guests tend to stay for longer, spend more money and, perhaps most significantly for the city as a whole, don’t just stay in the centre: they take their tourist euros to neighbourhoods that lie outside the lucrative, overcrowded centre. While Airbnb takes a commission of three percent from hosts, and between six and seven percent from guests, the remaining money goes

straight from the guest’s wallet to the host’s pocket. It is this money that is having one of the most interesting impacts on the welfare of the city’s hosts: Airbnb have reported that hosts are using the money they earn to help cover their mortgages and bills, and significantly, to stay in their homes in a region where, according to El País, 13 percent of houses stand empty. Airbnb's research also showed that 75 percent of the people who rented out an apartment had incomes at or below the national Spanish average. This new home sharing economic model is allowing money to go directly into the bank accounts of those struggling from a financial crisis where unemployment still stands over 21 percent. Airbnb’s growing presence in the city hasn’t been entirely welcomed. On July 7th the Generalitat fined Airbnb €30,000 for a "serious infringement" of local tourism laws. The Generalitat, according to El País, is exploring the possibility of blocking the site and has requested that Airbnb immediately stop displaying listings that either don't have a licence or only rent a room of a private apartment. Since 2007 the renting of apartments to tourists has been strictly regulated in Barcelona and requires a licence. >>

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FEATURE According to La Vanguardia, the Ajuntament is currently investigating 50 cases where local residents have complained about tourist apartments. If the apartment owners are operating without a licence—which many do—they will be eligible for a fine of between €9,000 and €90,000 under the 2007 law. The newspaper reports that there are between three and five complaints regarding tourist apartments every weekend. The hotel sector and the short-term apartment rental companies—who only work with licensed apartments—have welcomed the actions by the Ajuntament and the Generalitat, on the premise that the majority of Airbnb owners do not pay tax or have to adhere to specific safety regulations, thus creating unfair competition for those who do.

A petition was also launched that asked the mayor “to help the citizens of Barcelona, who have the right to share the home in which they live.” Barcelona is not the first city to clamp down on the home sharing website. New York has been Airbnb’s most notable battleground, where a judge demanded Airbnb give up the details of each host to fast-track prosecutions. Airbnb eventually did hand over data, but without disclosing names or addresses, and went on to remove 2,000 dubiously managed listings. Other cities, mostly European, have welcomed the development of citizens participating in the hospitality sector in a much more positive manner: Amsterdam has established a regulatory framework; Hamburg too; France as a whole has passed legislation to provide licences and collect tax, and even London authorities are reviewing their 1970 law on shared housing. Following nearly 100 local neighbourhood meetings, 400 of the city's 4,000 hosts squeezed into the Fàbrica Moritz to move their campaign onto the next stage. Those who attended the event were mostly middle-aged, Catalan and owners of the properties. All wanted to remain anonymous due to the lack of regulation and the local council’s recent actions. One person echoed Airbnb’s research saying, “It pays the bills and we get to meet a few nice people…it has >> really helped us.”

STREET OPINION THE BUSINESS Michell is from Holland and has been in Barcelona for 22 years. He runs the Zelig bar at Carrer del Carme 116. Q. How many Airbnb users come to the bar? A. It’s difficult to say as it's pretty seasonal. Sometimes they need to wait for the hosts to return to collect the key, so they kill a few hours in the bar. Then they get to know you and they tend to come back for the rest of their stay. We give good service and some good advice because we’ll be seeing each other again. We’re neighbours. Q. Are Airbnb guests different from other guests? A. Yes. They want to live in the city, feel like they’re part of it. You don’t feel like that if you are in the Hilton. They go to the market, get to know small bars like mine—they take an interest. They feel like they live in Barcelona. Q. Do you think Airbnb is good for Barcelona? A. Definitely. I live from it. The neighbours live from it. They buy their bread from next door. They buy their groceries from just down the road. They live like locals and leave their money.

THE HOST Candela rented her apartment on Airbnb for a week each month but has stopped since the website was fined by the Ajuntament. Q. What type of person uses Airbnb? A. The majority were very respectful and wanted to get to know other parts of Barcelona besides the tourist areas. I got to know many guests very well. I only once had a problem with a couple who left the flat very dirty. Q. Would you continue now the local government is clamping down? A. From the beginning I was concerned about it not being legal. However, from a personal and political perspective it was very clear to me. I needed to earn some money and it was time the tourism cake was shared. Q. What do you think the solution is? A. I don't believe there's a short-term solution as the situation is part of the general socioeconomic climate that we're living in right now. I don't believe that Airbnb is unfair competiton to hotels. I think the platform covers a different demand and allows ordinary people to take part in the city's success.

THE GUEST Nikki Cawood is from Devon in the UK. She's here with her husband John and they're renting a room for a week in an apartment in the Poble Sec. Q. Why are you using Airbnb? A. We wanted to stay with a local. We know Barcelona well and wanted to meet someone from the city this time. Q. How has your stay been so far? A. Great! The flat is lovely and the owner, Ana, is friendly and very helpful. She speaks some English but not that much, so we get to practise our Spanish too. We've also got to know a new area of the city. Q. How do you feel about it being illegal? A. I think it should be regulated somehow so the hosts can pay their taxes and earn some honest money.

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FEATURE Many local businesses were present too and spoke of how they were also experiencing the benefits brought by more Airbnb guests. The campaigners, Anfitriones en Acción (Hosts in Action) held a rally in Plaça Sant Jaume at the start of July that saw around 600 people attend. After several speeches, attendees delivered over 3,000 postcards signed by owners of small local businesses to Mayor Xavier Trias. They encouraged Trias “to support home sharing in Catalunya.” The organisers said they were “requesting his support to ensure that legislation provides for this type of activity in Catalunya in a fair and balanced manner.” A petition was also launched that asked the mayor “to help the citizens of Barcelona, who have the right to share the home in which they live.” As residents look to share the benefits of Barcelona’s unprecedented rise in tourism, just what will happen next is unclear. The hotel industry has certainly received a good portion of the tourist boom: from June 2012 till June 2013 there was an increase of 100,000 overnight hotel visits. However, the biggest threat to Airbnb seems to also be its most cited advantage: the social aspect. For most Airbnb owners, this means sharing a meal with a traveller in their home and introducing them to the hidden parts of a city a tourist would never be able to see. Yet this is being discredited by the apartments that are rented out continuously without the owner present. The three to five complaints received every weekend in the city seem to originate from loud groups renting apartments that are not supervised. The disturbances caused by those using their flats as a business on a site designed for home sharing and short-term rentals are losing many supporters among those who already feel alienated by the boom in tourism, something the recent documentary, Bye, Bye Barcelona highlighted. Considering what has happened in other cities, it seems the Ajuntament has two options. They could go down the New York route and virtually outlaw Airbnb or they could seek to manage its activity in a reasonable manner. Like recent legislation in Amsterdam, hosts in Barcelona may only be allowed to rent their flat for a maximum of two months and to a maximum of four guests. They would need to acquire a licence and pay tax, but nonetheless they would be permitted to use Airbnb. Among the hosts in Barcelona there is a firm desire to operate above board and pay tax on any money made from the site. As Barcelona begins to decide just how to accommodate Airbnb, one thing is for sure: Barcelona is in need of a new, transparent and fair system for its quickly burgeoning home sharing economy.

Airbnb AND THE CITY ECONOMY

FOUR THOUSAND

    HOSTS IN BARCELONA

HOSTING

170000 GUESTS

SPENDING 2.3 TIMES MORE MONEY COMPARED TO TYPICAL TOURISTS

AIRBNB GUESTS STAY 2.4 TIMES LONGER

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$ $

45%% OF SPENDING

OCCURS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD WHERE THEY STAY

  �80%% use Airbnb

TO EXPLORE A

specific AREA  OF AIRBNB GUESTS

AIRBNB AROUND THE WORLD San Francisco • The West Coast city faced a near-total ban. The local council then proposed to restrict all short-term rentals to commercial neighbourhoods only and require permission from homeowner associations. A new piece of legislation has been recently proposed to fairly regulate the market. • An estimated 75 percent of Airbnb hosts who rent their home in San Francisco said they use the income to help pay their rent.

New York • This messy fight stands as a template for other cities to avoid. The hotel lobby in New York City not only helped pass a law to make home sharing illegal but have lobbied hard to force Airbnb to hand over the details of their hosts to pursue prosecutions. • Estimated economic activity generated by Airbnb: $632 million

Paris • The new national housing legislation named “Bill Alur”, clarified the law and declared you can rent out the home in which you live without asking permission from your local City Hall. While most rentals are overwhelmingly in Paris, the law applies to all of France. • Estimated economic activity generated by Airbnb: €€185 million • Estimated jobs Airbnb has helped create: 1,100

Amsterdam • The Dutch capital was the first city to pass progressive legislation allowing residents to rent out privately-owned homes for up to two months a year and to up to four people at a time. • Guests on average spend€€792 on their trip. • 73 percent of properties are located outside the city centre.

London • Positive steps have been taken. A review was opened to see if the 40-year-old law that governs home sharing is fit for purpose. • Estimated economic activity generated by Airbnb in UK: £502 million. • Estimated jobs Airbnb has helped create: 11,629.

Hamburg • Germany’s second biggest city has revised its laws to allow occasional renting of a private residence without a licence. Secondary apartments do require a licence.

LOOKING TO LIVE LIKE A LOCAL TO EXPLORE NEW NEIGHBORHOODS

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20 culture

0 editor’s pick

MUSIC

Aloe Blacc

August 29th. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. www.masimas.com The dapper American rapper/singer/ songwriter first hit the big time back in 2010/11 with the release of his double platinum-selling album Good Things. With several number ones under his belt such as ‘I Need A Dollar’, ‘Wake Me Up’ and ‘The Man’, Blacc has evolved into one of the most popular soul and funk artists on the planet and continues to storm the international charts. His most recent album features the newest rendition of ‘Wake Me Up’, in collaboration with Swedish DJ Avicii, and has reached number one in a whopping 103 countries. Tickets are €44 in advance. This one-off show in Spain will be the closing concert of this year’s Mas i Mas festival, which brings an ecletic mix of international artists to various venues around the city in August. For more information, check the website.

James blake

August 22nd, 8pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. The British musician returns for the second time this year after his appearance at Primavera Sound back in May. His latest album, Overgrown, featured the input of Brian Eno and RZA and earned itself a Mercury Prize in 2013. Blake’s unique sounds are a breath of electronic soul with a zest of melancholia. Having played the likes of Glastonbury and other major festivals and venues over the past few years, the intimate Sala Apolo will be the perfect place for the soulful and haunting sounds of this extremely talented 25-year-old.

ARMIN van buuren

August 13th, 11.45pm. Opium Mar. Pg. Marítim de la Barceloneta 34. Internationally renowned house and trance DJ Armin van Buuren is back to spice up the city’s clubbing scene this August at Opium Mar. The 37 year-old Dutch sensation was nominated for a Grammy earlier this year, and has taken the number one spot on DJ Magazine’s Top 100 DJs fan poll an impressive five times. Van Buuren describes his sounds as euphoric, melodic and energetic. It promises to be a good night for all. Tickets from €40 euros in advance.

Nits de blues

Until August 30th. Poble Espanyol. Av. Marquès de Comillas 13. www.pobleespanyol.com Poble Espanyol continues to liven up our summer with the introduction of the Nits de Blues concert series. Maintaining the city’s traditionally lively blues scene, which includes the Escola Taller de Blues de Barcelona, Casa del Blues and the celebration of the XII Festival de Blues de Barcelona, the Nits de Blues will be bringing in the likes of Mancuso, Sun Street Blues and the Amadeu Casas Trio. The concerts take place every Saturday night at 8pm. For full listings, visit their website.

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culture 21

What’s on stage Do as the locals this August and head to the coast to enjoy some outdoor music at one of the region’s many summer festivals. Festival Torroella de Montgri

2014 sees the 34th edition of this classical music festival that takes over the medieval centre of this small town near l’Estartit on the Costa Brava. Until August 23rd. www.festivaldetorroella.cat

Festival Castell de Peralada

The Buenavista Social Club, Sara Baras and Gloria Gaynor are just a few of the big names who will perform in the grounds and cloisters of the beautiful Castell de Peralada near Figueres. Until August 16th. www.festivalperalada.com

Festival Internacional de Música Pau Casals

This classical music festival is located in El Vendrell, the hometown of renowned cellist and composer Pau Casals. Until August 23rd. www.auditoripaucasals.cat

Festival Internacional de Música de Cadaqués

An eclectic mix of performances, ranging from British band Texas to gospel, blues and classical. The concerts take place in venues around this picturesque Costa Brava town and many events are free. August 2nd-17th. www.festivalcadaques.com

Portaferrada 2014

Sant Feliu de Guíxols on the Costa Brava welcomes some big names at its annual festival. Belle & Sebastian, Dee Dee Bridgewater and Crystal Fighters are on the bill. Until August 23rd. www.festivalportaferrada.cat

Cambrils

The 40th edition of this festival near Tarragona welcomes some of the country’s most popular performers, including Montserrat Caballé, David Bisbal and Raphael. Until August 10th. www.cambrils.cat

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22 culture

0 editor’s pick

ART

EL PRADO UP CLOSE

La belleza cautiva. Pequeños tesoros del Museo del Prado. Until January 2015. Caixaforum. Av. Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. This exhibition, organised jointly with the Obra Social “la Caixa” and the Museo del Prado in Madrid, displays 120 small-sized paintings and sculptures from the Prado. Organised in chronological order, the pieces trace the history of art from the end of the 14th century to the 19th century and include works by Goya, Velázquez, El Bosco, Tiziano and Rubens among others. It’s a great opportunity to admire some of the Prado’s most intimate works of art up close.

Picasso’s BARCELONA

LLUISA VIDAL

Amb ulls de dona. Lluïsa Vidal, la pintora modernista. Until October 5th. Museu de Modernisme Català. Balmes 48. Lluisa Vidal (1876-1918), was one of the few women to make waves in the male-dominated Modernista art scene and to earn a living from her painting. Born in Barcelona, Vidal was the second of 12 siblings and grew up in a creative household where her art was encouraged. Her first art lessons were given to her by her father and later she moved to Paris to receive lessons from Eugène Carrère. Dynamic and tenacious, she was well known and respected among her contemporaries and at the age of 22 she held her first exhibition in Quatre Gats. Vidal was an extremely versatile artist but stood out for her sincere portraits of daily life and her talent for drawing and illustrations. For her technique and the themes she explored, Vidal is considered to be one of the second generation Modernista painters, together with Joaquim Mir, Pichot, Oleguer Junyent and a young Picasso. This exhibition brings together 30 pieces of Vidal’s works from private collections, along with documents about her life.

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Paisajes de Barcelona. Until September 14th. Museu Picasso. Montcada 15-23. An acclaimed genius for his portraits and still life, Picasso is not well known for landscape painting. However, he painted landscapes intermittently throughout his career and particularly in Barcelona when he was a student. This exhibition presents 29 small oil paintings and drawings of Barcelona’s seafront and urban areas from the Museu Picasso’s permanent collection. Most of the landscapes were painted between 1895 and 1903 when the city was modernising and opening up to Europe. The landscapes—which follow the coastline from Montjuïc, past the port and on to Barceloneta—bear witness to Picasso’s creative evolution. He freely explored perspective, light, brushstrokes and colour in these paintings and they show how his style develops, from his formative years through to his personal avant-garde style. The works are accompanied by 18 photographs from city archives that show the landscapes the artist painted.

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culture 23

Summer nights Enjoy late night openings, music and performances at the city’s museums, monuments and galleries this August. Caixaforum

Every Wednesday the Caixaforum is open till midnight with performances and concerts at 8pm and 10pm. Tickets cost €6. www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es

Museu d’Història de Catalunya

Every Saturday at 10pm a Catalan group will take to the stage on the museum’s lovely terrace. Entrance to the exhibition 300 Onzes de Septembre is included in the price. Tickets cost €8. www.mhcat.cat

Museo Europeo de Arte Moderno

Every Friday at 6pm the MEAM hosts a blues and jazz concert. Tickets (incl. concert and museum) cost €11. www.meam.es

La Torre Bellesguard

Every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, this recently renovated house designed by Gaudí offers a guided tour of the gardens, live music and a glass of cava. Tickets costs €19. www.bellesguardgaudi.com

La Pedrera

Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, La Pedrera offers a visit to the Espai Gaudí, a tour of the building, followed by a drink on the roof terrace accompanied by some of the city’s youngest and most promising jazz musicians. Tickets cost €28. www.lapedrera.com

Palau Güell

On August 14th and 28th at 8.30pm, there’s live jazz and a glass of cava on the terrace of the Palau Güell. Tickets cost €35. www.palauguell.cat

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24 culture

BEST OF THE REST PARTY TIME IN GRACIA

August 15th-21st. Gràcia. Free. If you’ve braved the sweltering heat and the ensuing mass exodus from city to coast, make sure you keep this event on your calendar. Gràcia’s week-long street party can rival that of any around the world. The revelry begins in the early evening and runs until about 2am. There’s a parade on the first day of the festival, including fireworks, music and castells. Many of the narrow streets engage in a peacocking contest for the rivaled “best dressed street” bragging rights. A theme is chosen which can range from anything to Star Wars, toilet paper to a flock of Antarctic Penguins. Arrive early enough and you’ll see neighbours busying themselves, fine-tuning these elaborate decorations before it’s off to a fantasy-fueled night to remember. At night the many squares will be filled with free live music till the wee hours.

sants CELEBRATIONS

August 23rd-30th, Sants After the hustle and bustle of the Festa Major de Gràcia people often overlook its distant relative over in Sants. But they shouldn’t. This festival certainly doesn’t lack colour, creativity or indeed, castellers. The party starts on Saturday, August 23rd and keeps going until Saturday 30rd all over the neighbourhood. During these eight days, you’ll get a taste of culture and activities similar to the previous week’s festivities in Gràcia; decorated streets, human pile’ ups and correfocs. Plus, a packed programme of free activities and concerts every day.

0 editor’s pick

La Festa catalana

Every Saturday. Avinguda de la Catedral Every Saturday throughout the summer you can see demonstrations of different Catalan traditions and customs in the Plaça de la Catedral. Expect human towers (castells), the wistful sounds of the traditional woodwind instrument, the tenora, sardana dancing, the larger than life gégants, fiery bastoners, mythical beasts and torch-wielding diables. The events start at 7.30pm: August 2nd: Castellers and gégants August 9th: Bastoners, gégants and diables August 16th: Falcons and gégants August 23rd: Castellers and gégants August 30th: Castellers and sardanes

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culture 25

Gandules’14

CCCB. August 5th-21st. Every Tues, Wed & Thurs, 10pm. Montalegre 5. As the summer nights film series on Montjuïc winds to a close, the CCCB takes up the baton with the start of Gandules’14 . This annual film festival, now in its 11th consecutive year, aims to uphold the values of contemporary cinema. This year is no different, with a focus on immigration and the difficult and unexpected paths people take to reach their often unknown destinations. A forceful showing of cinema not to be missed. Entry is free.

Find everything you need here!

Basketball world cup

Palau Sant Jordi. www.fiba.com/basketballworldcup/2014 From August 30th till September 14th the FIBA Basketball World Cup, known from 1950 until 2010 as the FIBA World Championship, will be the focus of the sporting world. The World Cup is the flagship event of the International Basketball Federation and for its inaugurate year, Spain has been chosen as host. The cities of Seville, Madrid, Bilbao, Granada, Gran Canaria and of course, Barcelona have all been selected to entertain the best basketball teams in the world. Barcelona will host rounds of the final 16, two quarter-finals and a semi-final at Palau Sant Jordi. The final will be played in Madrid.

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Freddy Cole Singer, pianist and brother of Nat King Cole. Mas i Mas festival. 8pm & 10pm. Jamboree. Plaça Reial 17.

TUESDAY

Lucy Lummis & her Mestres del Jazz orchestra Jazz and blues. 8.30pm. Jazz Sí Club. Requesens 2. The talented vocalist is joined by an allstar jazz band.

Sala mONTJUÏC Open air cinema. Film Submarine and music by Victor Salvatti. Concert starts at 8.45pm. Film starts at 10pm. Castell Montjuïc.

MONDAY

Operair Barcelona’s first opera festival presents Bizet’s Carmen (also on 5th & 9th) Teatre Grec.

Música als Parcs Concert by Erevna. 9pm. Parc de la Ciutadella.

Opening of Circuit Festival International gay and lesbian event.

THURSDAY

Opera music Part of Nits d’Estiu cycle. 8pm & 10pm. Caixaforum. Av Marquès de Comillas 6-8.

WEDNESDAY

Leslie Helpert

AVENTURES ANIMADES Short films for children. 5.30pm. Caixaforum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

Nit de Blues See page 20. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc.

Vermut & swing With the Lluis Gomez Swing Trio. 12.30pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

La Festa Catalana Castellers and gégants. 7.30pm. Plaça de la Catedral.

MECAL AIR Short films al fresco, tonight with a cycling theme. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc. TELL YOUR FRIENDS Opening night of this solo exhibition by artist Heather More. Drinks and DJs. 8pm. Paella Showroom. Sant Pere Més Alt 48.

SATURDAY

FRIDAY

Leslie Helpert French-American singersongwriter.

Home Market Second-hand market. 12pm-8pm. Casa Gràcia. Pg. de Gràcia 116.

CCCB Mirador Panoramic views of the city. CCCB. Montalegre 5. (mirador opens first Sunday of the month)

LES MISERABLES Last night of the musical based on the novel by Victor Hugo. 9pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

SUNDAY

What's ON August 2014

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Reial 17.

For more information visit our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Picnik Electronik

Paris Hilton

paris hiltoN dJ A chance to catch the socialite on the decks at Atlántida. Parc del Litoral. Calle Dolores Ibarruri S/N. Sant Adrià de Besòs,

Vermut & sWiNg With the Lluis Gomez Swing Trio. 12.30pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

iuliaN gogu & olga meNeNsiN Classical concert in gardens of Gaudí-designed house. La Torre Bellesguard. Bellesguard 16.

Festes de saNts. See page 24.

soWeto & FrieNds Tribute to Skatalites. Mas i Mas Festival. Tarantos Club. Plaça Reial 17.

Nit de Blues See page 20. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc.

Clara luNa Part of summer concert series. 7.30pm. El Born Centre Cultural. Pl. Comercial 12.

Festes de grÀCia See page 24. paQuito grooVe BaNd Soul & funk at the Palau Gomis. 6pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

aVeNtures aNimades Short films for children. 5.30pm. Caixaforum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

Jazz CoNCert Live jazz and cava on the terrace. 8.30pm. Palau Güell. Nou de la Rambla 3-5.

aNti-karaoke Karaoke rock show with Cesar Martín. 11pm. Magic. Pg. Picasso 40.

duma Jazz Quartet Música als Parcs cycle. 9pm. Parc de la Ciutadella.

James Blake

James Blake See page 20. 8pm. Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

diNNer uNder the stars Dinner and stargazing. 8.30pm. Observatori Fabra. Every Tues-Sat. www.fabra.cat

CiNema lliure a la platJa Graham Chapman’s A Liar’s Autobiography. 9pm. Platja de Sant Sebastià. Barceloneta.

iVaN koVaCeViC 5 spots Open air concert on the roof of La Pedrera. 10.45pm. Provença 261-265.

Casa BatllÓ: Nits mÀgiQues Food, drink and live music. 9pm. Passeig de Gràcia 43. Every Wed to Sat until Sept. JoaN isaaC Cycle of Catalan music on the terrace. 10pm. Museu d’Història de Catalunya. Pl. de Pau Vila 3.

Chicago

músiCa als parCs Concert by Erevna. 9pm. Parc de la Ciutadella.

opeNiNg oF CirCuit FestiVal International gay and lesbian event. Venues around the city. (Until 17th).

lluis rodrÍgues salVÀ Piano concert with works by Granados and Abéniz. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

Blues Jam sessioN 10pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

Freddy Cole

luCy lummis & her mestres del Jazz orChestra Jazz and blues. 8.30pm. Jazz Sí Club. Requesens 2. The talented vocalist is joined by an allstar jazz band. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

starts at 10pm. Castell Montjuïc.

piCNik eleCtroNik Music, food and kids’ activities. 1pm-8pm. Jardins Joan Brossa. Montjuïc.

pageiCa A hands-on, natural history workshop for children. 12pm & 1pm. Museu Blau. Parc del Fórum.

piCNik eleCtroNik Music, food and kids’ activities. 1pm-8pm. Jardins Joan Brossa. Montjuïc.

Wet deCk summer series Chillout by the pool with guest DJs. 8pm. W Hotel. Pl. Rosa dels Vents.

leslie helpert French-American singersongwriter. 8.30pm. Cafè Mandacarú. Magalhaes 35.

Gràcia 116.

28 FEATURE

STRETCHING YOUR WAY TO HEALTH

THE CHANGING FACE OF YOGA AND PILATES IN BARCELONA. by POLLY CASSON.

arcelona has long been a sun-drenched magnet for physical activities, and right now the city is experiencing a resurgence of interest in yoga and pilates. Both techniques are currently undergoing an extensive facelift, with a variety of new methods being created, and the city is awash with professionals promoting awareness of the versatility and dynamism of these practices. Pilates was invented by the German, Joseph Pilates in the early 1900’s, with the objective of strengthening the core muscles, correcting posture and increasing balance coordination. Now, teachers with a strong anatomical knowledge are adapting some of the exercises to avoid certain injuries that can be caused by practising pilates and yoga incorrectly. Yoga, on the other hand, is often thought of as less of an exercise class and more of a meditation in movement that allows the person to become conscious of their emotive state and to work with their breathing. However, yoga classes actually cover the whole gamut, from relaxing to full body workout. There are many types of yoga on offer in Barcelona; from gentle hatha and flowing vinyasa to the more testing bikram and hot yoga or, definitely not for the faint hearted, power yoga. Some places offer practical sessions focused on body work and others provide a more spiritual approach and include retreats, chakra work and meditation. Both yoga and pilates are widely available in gyms. However, given the large classes and sometimes lack of specific teaching expertise, these are not always good quality; hence the new surge of interest in smaller, specialised studios here in the city. Metropolitan spoke to three professionals who are adapting their expertise to enhance results and better meet clients’ needs. Ana Avila is an osteopath who works with pilates apparatus at Kinetikstudio. The machines are complex pieces of equipment; one resembles a bed with stretching cords attached. According to Ana, “They are designed to take the typical pilates mat exercises to the next level by adding resistance to the movement’’. For Ana, investing in these machines was needed in order to practise pilates correctly. She notes that in the last 12 years Barcelona has experienced a major pilates boom and is definitely here to stay. For Ana this is because pilates is a quality technique that yields incredible results. David Amador and Claudia Almagro Di Marco from ModoVite Studio Pilates y Quiroterapias offer classic pilates instruction which combines apparatus and floor work, as well as osteopathic therapies. They are among the growing number of professionals here who are intent on teaching pilates effectively. David says that pilates is “A very technical sports method, where the correct execution of each exercise is more important than the number of repetitions or sets.’’ David considers osteopathy a very valid complementary treatment

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to pilates, referring to it as, “a philosophy of life. It is the art of science in balance, given that the chemical balance and relationship between our structure (anatomy) and our functions (physiology) are reciprocal”. With this in mind it makes sense that we have come to realise the benefits of combination therapies. Our health largely depends on the good relationship between the different parts and systems of our body. Jane Dominey at Fisiyoga teaches both yoga and pilates. Highly trained in anatomy, she specialises in pre and post natal practice. In her search for new ways to modernise these techniques, and inspired by her studies of osteopathy and anatomy, she has begun to adapt the traditional yoga and pilates postures in her classes. According to the posture and needs of the individual, she personalises the poses in order to protect the back and the articulations (spinal discs, ligaments and cartilage) from injury. She says that she has seen an increase in people being recommended yoga and pilates by their osteopaths, physiotherapists and doctors.

Yoga and pilates are excellent forms of exCerise in themselves and there is no shortage of places to learn and practise the techniques in the city. From September, Jane will be offering classes of ‘no risk abdominals’ at her studio. This new method, created by Blandine Calais-Germain, is a safe workout programme, designed to increase core strength whilst avoiding damage to the spine, pelvic floor, diaphragm and internal organs, which can occur with most common abdominal exercises, such as crunches.

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FEATURE 29

Jane’s methods are also suitable for pregnant and post natal women and these classes are taught in English. The adaptation of many of the pilates exercises reduce the impact on the pelvic floor and perineum. The benefits of pre and post natal yoga are being widely recognised and in the UK health professionals are calling on the NHS to offer free pregnancy yoga classes to their patients. According to Jane, these types of yoga, “work to prepare the body for birth and after birth, and for a healthy sex life.’’ Yoga and pilates are excellent forms of exercise in themselves and there is no shortage of places to learn and practise both techniques in the city. Barcelona, with its wealth of innovative professionals, has also seen a breakthrough not only in techniques, but in professional outlook and philosophy. Whether you’re looking to relax, achieve optimum health, prepare for childbirth or heal an injury, you can opt for trying one or the other, or to follow the professionals’ lead and combine the physicality of pilates with the emotive nature of yoga. More info. Kinetikstudio. www.kinetikstudio.org ModoVite Método Pilates y Quiroterapia. www.modovite.es Jane Dominey Fisiyoga. www.yogapilatesbcn.com Photo from Yoga Pilates BCN

QUICK GUIDE YOGA STYLES

for its slow pace and meticulous attention to detail.

ashtanga classes, as well as prenatal and postnatal.

Ashtanga: A physically demanding practice, Ashtanga

Kundalini: Kundalini concentrates on awakening the

Pelai 52, 3 2, Pujadas 182 bajos, Laforja 118 bajos,

was brought to the West in the seventies by Pattabhi

energy at the base of the spine and drawing it upward.

Bruc 7. www.happyyoga.com

Jois. It follows a specific sequence of postures that are

As well as postures, a typical kundalini class also in-

synchronised with the breath. It improves circulation,

cludes chanting, meditation, and breathing exercises.

flexibility and stamina.

Yoga Con Gracia: This studio is located in a former factory in the heart of Gràcia and offers hatha, sivananda,

Power Yoga: This is a style of ashtanga yoga but

ashtanga, jivamukti and kundalini as well as prenatal,

Bikram: Bikram yoga is a system of yoga developed

pushed a step further. The postures incorporate push-

and mother and baby sessions.

by Bikram Choudhury in the seventies, based on tradi-

ups, handstands and toe touches and each posture

Esglèsia 4-10, 4ª. www.yogacongracia.com

tional hatha yoga techniques. There are 26 poses that

flows into the next, making it a powerful workout.

always follow the same sequence. All Bikram classes

Yoga Linda: Classes in Yoga Linda combine traditional

last 90 minutes and are practised in a 40ºC room. It

Vinyasa: Vinyasa is the Sanskrit word for “flow”, and

hatha yoga and vinyasa flow for all levels. This is a “hot

builds muscular strength, endurance, cardiovascular

vinyasa classes are known for their fluid, movement-

yoga” studio, meaning that all classes take place in a

flexibility and can help with weight loss.

intensive practices which are coordinated with the

studio that is heated to 40ºC.

breath. There is a smooth transition between postures

Rosa Sensat 4. www.yogalinda.es

Hatha: Hatha is an easy-to-learn form of yoga that is

and classes are often carried out to music. This is an

the foundation of all yoga styles. The classes usually

intense and physically demanding practice.

incorporate postures, regulated breathing, meditation

Centre de Ioga Iyengar de Barcelona: This studio is dedicated exclusively to the practise of Iyengar. All the

and kundalini. Hatha yoga is gentle and often used as a

YOGA STUDIOS

teachers are internationally certified.

way to relax and create inner calm.

Bikram Yoga: This centre is Bikram certified and has

Portal de l’Àngel 42, 4t B. www.iogabcn.cat

two studios in Barcelona. Hot Yoga: Hot yoga classes are held in studios heated

Pau Claris 97, Pral 2. Caravel·la la Niña 18.

Happy Lotus: This friendly studio in the centre of Barce-

to 40ºC. The style differs from bikram and tends to be a

www.bikramyoga.es

lona offers hatha yoga for all levels.

flowing vinyasa style of yoga.

Via Laietana 54. http://happylotus.worpress.com Yoga Body: Yoga Body offers 60-minute classes and a

Iyengar Yoga: Developed by B.K.S. Iyengar over 60

flexible schedule. Practical and comfortable and “no

PILATES STUDIOS

years ago, Iyengar yoga uses coordinated breathing

incense, no chanting and no gurus”.

Studio Australia Barcelona: This Australian-run well-

and poses that require precise body alignment. The

Roger de Flor 118. www.yogabody.es

ness centre offers individual pilates classes in a bright and elegant space.

poses are generally held longer than in other styles of yoga and promote strength, flexibility, endurance, and

Happy Yoga: Happy Yoga has four studios in Barcelona

Gran de Gràcia 47, Pral 1.

balance. It is effective for people recovering from injury

with different options, including kundalini, hatha and

www.studioaustraliabarcelona.com

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7/23/14 3:00:29 PM

30 FEATURE

The Can Vies effect

barcelona has seen TWO HIGH PROFILE EVICTIONS IN THE LAST SIX MONTHS. By Anthony Bain. Photos by Sam Zucker.

Okupas have lived in Can Vies for 17 years, turning the building into an alternative cultural centre.

t’s not often local news events in Barcelona filter out into the international press, but the violent protests that took place in the district of Sants at the end of May during the eviction of the Can Vies squat shook Barcelona to its foundations. The events received coverage by The Guardian, The New York Times and even Fox News. From the beginning, the Barcelona Ajuntament knew that the grassroots home of the left-wing movement would not be a run-of-the-mill squatter eviction. Can Vies had been occupied since 1997 and served as an unofficial civic centre. Talks between the owners of the building, Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB), the district council and the squatters have been ongoing for several years, with the demolition order pending since 2003. During the last week of May another round of negotiations had run aground with the squatters refusing to give up the building, maintaining that after 17 years of occupancy the building rightfully belongs to them. During the talks that took place after the eviction, town hall spokesperson, Joaquim Forn said, “We had tried to find a solution to prevent any kind of conflict with the Can Vies collective, to the point where local representatives from the district were called in to mediate, but the okupas rejected any kind of peaceful solution.” The district council decided that the eviction and demolition would go ahead, citing that the building, dating from 1879, was architecturally unsound and that the occupiers of Can Vies had been offered a space to continue their cultural activities in the nearby cultural centre of Can Batlló. The Ajuntament also announced that after the demolition of Can Vies and in accordance with planning laws, the land would be used as recreational green space to complement the pedestrian area which is currently under construction: a 7.8 million euro expansion of the Mercat de Sants which will cover the disused rail tracks. The squatters countered that the argument is a self-serving ploy by the local council to increase the value of the district’s property index.

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Residential property in the district of Sants is currently valued at 3,000 euros per square metre and rental prices usually exceed 1,000 euros a month. It is unknown whether these prices will increase once the current improvements to the area are completed.

The eviction of the squatters in the case of La Carboneria PASSED without incident but more than 300 people from the district turned out to show support. When the eviction began, the mobile brigade of the Mossos d’Esquadra moved in to forcibly remove the squatters who had chained themselves to the interior of the building. An extra 200 police units from in and around Catalunya were shuttled in to provide support. Eager to get the eviction over and done with quickly, the excavator began the demolition, apparently with squatters still inside the building, an act seen by many, including local political figures, as an unquestionable kick to the hornets’ nest. The situation rapidly descended into anarchy, echoing scenes from the 15-M indignados protests. The district went into revolt, makeshift barricades were erected and as the day wore on the squatters became more resolute. By the evening, the scene was of chaotic violence, with the police firing rubber bullets into the protestors’ front lines and the rioters retaliating with a volley of stones collected from the crumbling

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FEATURE 31

remnants of the Can Vies building. A TV3 mobile communications van was set ablaze along with the excavator that was being used to demolish the building. According to Pau Guerra, an official spokesperson for the Can Vies collective, the violence that erupted in the wake of the demolition was “directly in response to police aggression.” The police were criticised for their heavy-handed behaviour during the riot. The headquarters of nearby local Catalan left wing newspaper La Directa, which openly supports left wing grassroots movements, was targeted by police and had its windows smashed in. These incidents became the last straw for the chief of the Mossos d’Esquadra, Manel Prat. With several alleged incidents of police brutality already hanging over his head, Prat announced his resignation, much to the dismay of the Ajuntament. The Mayor of Barcelona, Xavier Trias came out and said in a press conference that his resignation was simply, “badly timed”. By the second evening of rioting many local residents came out to support the Can Vies squatters and protest against the police action which they saw as an occupation of the district. A domino effect of support began to ripple across the city with major protests in Clot, and in towns in and around Catalunya, quickly spreading to Valencia and Palma de Mallorca. The Ajuntament had underestimated Can Vies’ cultural ties to the community. When they issued a statement to say that they were calling off the demolition, local residents came out in force to help with the reconstruction of the building. A human chain was formed from Can Vies to Sants district hall and bricks that could not be reused were laid at the door in protest. A local resident and adamant supporter of Can Vies who camped outside the Ajuntament said, “This is to show the town hall that they reap what they sow and the local community won’t allow a police occupation of this district. This is the Can Vies effect.” Many squatter houses across the city have recently been closed. Built in 1864, La Carboneria is the Eixample’s oldest building and began life as a tenement building for metro workers. It was occupied by squatters in 2008 when the real estate company who owned the building went bankrupt. Well known for the colourful mural on its façade, the building was used as a cultural centre, where meetings and activities could take place. Now the building is owned by Barclays Bank and, much to the outrage of local residents, La Carboneria has been earmarked for demolition. The eviction of the squatters in the case of La Carboneria passed without major incidents but more than 300 people from the district turned out to show support. With 90,000 empty properties in Barcelona the phenomenon of squatting is becoming widespread. Both private and bank-owned prop-

erties frequently resort to bricking up the entrances of empty buildings in a bid to protect themselves from illegal tenants. If squatters do gain entry, there is a lengthy eviction process. Until a court order is obtained the police are powerless to do anything about it. In an interview with La Vanguardia, Toni Sanchez, the vice president of the Sant Antoni neighbourhood (where La Carboneria is located), said, “I do not support squatting. However there are so many empty and abandoned buildings in Barcelona, and on the other hand there are people with no jobs and no housing, you can hardly blame them”. Many locals no doubt share Sanchez’s mixed sentiments. The city receives its fair share of complaints about antisocial behaviour in some squats and private owners of empty houses have to resort to full time security to ensure the house doesn’t become occupied. These owners are not big corporations and these properties are often on the market. Yet, the reaction of local residents suggests that things are not so black and white, and when an abandoned building is put to good use and its owners are a big bank, many will sympathise with the okupas. This and the Can Vies experience will provide the Ajuntament with some food for thought for future evictions.

Barcelona’s eco-squat Can Masdeu is an occupied building in the Collserola park. A former leper hospital, the building had been abandoned for over 40 years before squatters moved into it in 2001. Shortly after, and with local community support, they resisted an eviction. The failure to evict resulted in a new court case, which the owners of the building won, though no eviction notice has since been issued. Outside the building itself, a large area of land has been converted into vegetable gardens. Some of the gardens are used by the occupants of the house and some by people from the local Nou Barris neighbourhood. Can Masdeu also offers educational programmes for local schools relating to sustainable agriculture and energy. On Sunday there is an open house in the social centre and snacks and lunches are available at a small charge. www.canmasdeu.net

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CULTURE 33

Off the beaten track

AVOID the crowds by visiting some of the city’s lesser-known Modernista jewels.

f you can’t face another trip to the Sagrada Familia with visiting family, it’s time to take them off the beaten track and explore some of the city’s lesser-known Modernista architecture. Beyond the star attractions, Barcelona is also home to a wealth of lesser-known Modernista heritage that the city is working hard at renovating and opening to the public: in the last year three more buildings opened their ornate doors to the public. There are no long queues in the sun to enter these living museums, just a chance to take in some outstanding design and craftsmanship at your own leisurely pace, or as part of a small tour group. Not only will your family/ friends thank you for your local savvy, but you can save a few euros too. During the summer months, many buildings on the Ruta del Modernisme (www.rutadelmodernisme.com) offer a 50 percent discount to locals. The Ruta del Modernisme has a detailed map of 115 heritage points in the city, of which 20 are open to inside viewing.

 CASA LLEÓ MORERA Designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, with details provided by some of the era’s greatest craftspeople, this house opened to the public in January this year. It forms part of the famous Manzana de la discordia on Pg. de Gràcia, so-named for the alleged rivalry between Domènech i Montaner and his famous neighbours on this spectacular Eixample block—Antoni Gaudí (Casa Batlló) and Josep Puig Cadalfalch (Casa Amatller). Guided tours take visitors to the house’s ornate first floor, which is home to some fine examples of Modernista sculpture, ceramics, mosaics and glassworks. Pg. de Gràcia 35 www.casalleomorera.com

 LA TORRE BELLESGUARD Also known as Casa Figueres, this former manor house looks over Barcelona from its privileged spot on Collserola. The Guilera family, that has owned the house since 1944, opened their residence to the public in September 2013 following extensive renovation work. The house was designed by Gaudí for Jaume Figueras, a rich merchant and personal friend of the architect. Built between 1900 and 1909 it owes much of its aesthetic to the land it occupies. The castle-like exterior was inspired by the medieval fort—residence of King Martin of Aragón—which used to stand here and whose ruins can still be seen in the grounds around the house. During the summer months you can enjoy a “Noche de Gaudí” at La Torre Bellesguard with live music, guided tour and a glass of cava. Carrer de Bellesguard 16 www.bellesguardgaudi.com

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 CERCLE ARTÍSTIC DE SANT LLUC Founded in 1893, at the peak of the Modernista movement, the Cercle Artístic de Sant Lluc is a meeting point for artists and intellectuals and boasts an illustrious list of former members, including Gaudí himself. In 2009 the Cercle moved to its current home in Palau Mercader, a small 17th-century palace, just off Via Laietana, which was opened for public viewing in March of this year. The building houses a small but significant collection of Modernista art and a painting studio in which the style and manner of working al natural is unchanged since Modernista times. On wednesday mornings, they run a tour that includes breakfast in the lovely bar, where you can soak up the atmosphere and leaf through Modernista magazines from around the world. The tours are very popular, so be sure to book yours in advance. Mercaders 42 www.santlluc.cat

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34 TRAVEL

part 2: Life’s a beach

THE SECOND INSTALMENT OF OUR COSTA BRAVA CALAS SPECIAL. By Carol Moran

Cala Montjoi Photo courtesy of Ajuntament de Roses.

t’s August. The office is half empty, the streets are deserted. You can park for free in the city centre and rest easy at night with only a fraction of the usual hubbub resounding across town. But let’s face it, it’s not fun being left to hold the fort. So if you’re whiling the weekdays away wondering which stretch of sand to migrate to when Saturday comes, here’s some food for thought: Cala Boadella - Lloret de Mar This is the most unspoilt beach in the vicinity of Lloret de Mar. Despite its reputation as the epicentre of cheap package holidays, the worst features of mass tourism remain within Lloret itself, and there are many beautiful beaches nearby. Cala Boadella is one such peaceful spot, and boasts 310 metres of golden sands surrounded by pine trees. Cala Pola - Tossa de Mar A true beauty spot with a family atmosphere, this tiny sheltered cove is located between Cala Bona and Cala Giverola along a spectacular, windy stretch of coast between Tossa de Mar and Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Pine and oak forests surround crystal clear waters to create a natural swimming pool, which is understandably popular in summer, as is the adjacent campsite. Cala de Castell - Palamós Famously saved from development in the 1990s, the idyllic Cala de Castell exudes unspoilt beauty, giving us an idea of what the Costa Brava was like before the arrival of mass tourism. Located just north of Palamós, its generous golden sands and clear waters have

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inspired many artists over the years, and a number of historical relics nearby, including the ancient ruins of an Iberian settlement. Cala d’Aigua Xelida - Tamariu Cala d’Aigua Xelida is a true hidden gem, where pine-clad cliffs conceal a tiny beach and turquoise waters, ideal for swimming and snorkelling. This small but beautiful cove is accessible only on foot from Carrer de Cala Marquesa, located 1km northeast of charming Tamariu, with its quaint restaurants and fine horseshoe-shaped beach. Cala Ferriol - L’Escala Located between l’Estartit y Cala Montgó, this isolated pebbly beach can only be reached by boat or on foot, due to the rugged, uninhabitable surroundings. A woodland path provides access from Cala Montgó in around 60-90 minutes, traversing the natural park of Montgrí en route. This secluded cala is a just reward, with crystalline waters, rocky islets and an underwater landscape that makes for great snorkelling. Cala Montjoi - Roses Former home of the El Bulli restaurant, the picturesque Cala Montjoi is located in the natural park of Cap de Creus, 7km east of Roses. This crescent-shaped cove offers calm clear waters, diving, kayaking and a holiday village. The remote Cala Rostella and Cala Murtra can be accessed on foot from here via a dirt track to the south, whilst Cala Jóncols to the east is a smaller version of Montjoi with a secluded beachfront hotel.

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TRAVEL 35

Put the wind in your sails Calling all adrenaline junkies! Lying around doing a whole lot of nothing not your style? If you prefer riding the waves to soaking up the rays, then swap the concealed coves for endless golden sands and let the wind carry you. Where the rugged Catalan coast unwinds into long, vast beaches, many a kite surfing hotspot can be found; uplifting sea breezes, spacious sands and swathes of vibrant colours flapping in the breeze make for an action-packed beach break. So whether you’re a novice or a pro, you’ll be flying high in no time with numerous kite schools to show you how. Here are a few of our favourite spots... Sant Pere Pescador In stark contrast to the hidden calas to be found up and down the Costa Brava, seven kilometres of golden sands line the spectacular Bay of Roses at Sant Pere Pescador. Located three kilometres from the town itself, this boundless beach is backed by sandy dunes that give way to flat marshlands and a natural sanctuary for many aquatic birds—the Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà. Surf school: The Kite Experience Stay at: Camping La Gaviota Eat: Campsite restaurant is tasty and well priced, or visit L’Escala for some good sea view options. Ideal for: Intermediate level

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When the wind’s down...Hire a bike and discover the natural surroundings, explore the rocky headland of Cap de Creus or the Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries. Or, if you’re still desperate for your adrenaline fix, catch a bird’s-eye view with Skydive Empuriabrava and calm lagoons, where first-timers can take to the water at ease. Surf school: Radical Surfex Kite School (year-round kite surfing permitted on Playa Trabucador) Stay at: Camping Eucaliptus Eat: Restaurant Casa de Fusta Ideal for: Beginners Finally, for something a bit closer to home, Castelldefels is a great place to learn the ropes. Kitesurfingbcn (www.kitesurfingbcn.com) offers custom courses for all ages and levels. And Bunker Wind, Kite and Surf Club (www.bunkerwind.com/bunker) will have you out on the waves in no time. IMPORTANT! Kite surfing is not permitted along the Catalan coast between mid-June and mid-September except for in designated areas and/or with qualified instructors. If accompanied by an instructor, you won’t have a problem. If you prefer to go it alone, be sure to check restrictions, or plan for late September when the conditions are ideal and you might just find yourself flying solo.

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36 RESTAURANT REVIEW

THE MARKET

PERUVIAN CUISINE IS WHERE IT’S AT RIGHT NOW AND THIS LITTLE RESTAURANT IS A GOOD PLACE TO START. By Tara Stevens.

t’s no secret that Peruvian is the hottest thing to hit the European dining scene since sushi. It’s just taken Barcelona a little while to catch up. And catching up it is, thanks no doubt, to the extreme success of Albert Adrià’s Pakta, a Nikkei joint that fuses Peruvian and Japanese— and my favourite meal of 2013—and Gastón Acurio, the Limeño chef who put Peruvian on the international stage, and who owns Tanta in the Eixample. But those without this kind of rocket-fueled PR machine behind them have taken rather longer to gain a foothold. Enter The Market, a smart, but cute little Peruvian place just above the Diagonal, with its ethno-chic interior of brick walls dotted with cool Aztec paintings and portraits of Frida Kahlo, underscored by filament bulbs glittering above the bar, that give just the right amount of pizzazz. It’s run by Patrick Weber and his right hand man, chef Nicky Ramos, who wanted to take Peruvian into something more regionally biased. “There are so many influences in Peruvian cuisine,” Nicky tells me one lunchtime when I happen to pass by and am suddenly overcome by the need for a bowl of ceviche and a Pisco Sour. “Chinese, Japanese, Italian and African, not to mention the Incas, pre-Incas and Nazcas (the guys who did those crazy giant line drawings in the Southern desert). You’re looking at 500 years of fusion that’s evolved through social integration, so yeah, we have a pretty amazing cuisine.” No kidding. Peru has 4000 different types of potato, at least 300 ‘known’ types of chilli pepper (it’s where the fruit is believed to have originated). Nicky says there are so many rare and wonderful species of fruit and vegetables that every day he goes to the market over there he’ll discover at least five new things. Ferran Adrià calls it one of his favourite places on earth to eat, and the words ensured its fate the second they were uttered. Peruvian, my friends, is huge and it’s about to explode.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW 37

I have a general rule that, when in Rome make like a Roman. So when dining Peruvian, a Pisco Sour is the only way to go and to my mind it’s actually a much better fit to the food, especially ceviche, than wine. The lively acidity of the drink softened by the soft, creamy foam of the top is the perfect foil to raw fish that’s been ‘cooked’ in lime juice—it enhances it—and to sturdy skewers of ox heart, on which more later. I was in the mood for classics so ordered up the simple corvina (a type of bass) tossed about in lime juice with aji amarillo, the gently earthy, soulful yellow chilli pepper native to Peru, and plump kernels of corn. It comes together in caressing, buttery mouthfuls made exciting by the crunch of toasted corn that has been scattered on top. Think salt, spice and acidity and I promise you, it’s the best summer food in the world. Afterwards, because Nicky talks me into it, I have seco de cordero—a hearty dish from the North, that honestly is not quite the right thing to be eating in high summer, but wow, will I be back for it the minute the leaves start to fall. Cooked down very slowly in a complex sauce of dark beer, pisco and cilantro, the meat is spoon-tender, almost chocolately and comes on a pile of refried beans with rice and a zingy fresh onion relish. When I return for dinner a few weeks later I continue on the Pisco Sours, but add a quinoa salad enlivened with cubes of Andean cheese, pea sprouts, dainty nuggets of mango, cherry tomatoes and black sesame seeds; slivers of raw tuna with lime, soy and seaweed, and the anticuchos that I mentioned earlier. I’m all for a slab of beef heart me, and if you like your meat lean it’s the least gristly and fatty part of the beast, but these were just a tiny bit too rustic for me. They had that unmistakable squidge of offalness about them, which I’m sure many will adore, but I’ve never really got my head round. Still, all the more reason for just one more of the Market’s divine Pisco Sours I’d say. No dessert necessary.

MORE INFO. Gran de Gràcia 7 (Gràcia) Tel. 93 186 4200 www.themarketbarcelona.com Open: Sun-Wed 1pm-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight, Thu-Sat 1pm-4.30pm, 8pm-1am. €35 for two courses plus drinks. ✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

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38 QUICK BITES

TOC AL MAR

EFFORTLESS AND RELAXED, THIS CHIRINGUITO-STYLE RESTAURANT SERVES DELICIOUS, UNPRETENTIOUS FARE. By Tara Stevens.

oc al Mar is the kind of place that makes you feel sorry for everywhere else. Situated in one of the Costa Brava’s prettiest calas, I first went on a foul day at the start of June when nobody in their right minds would be out and about, but it was rammed where all around everyone else was empty. The fact is, when somewhere is that good why would you go anywhere else, unless it’s 15 paces across the beach to Javier des Muelas cocktail bar at Mar i Vent for a G&T? Part of the Costa-Brava new-wave, this surfstyle chiringuito is all mismatched furniture and oil cloths on the tables, with pretty little lanterns swinging in the breeze and specials chalked up on the board. Upended vegetable crates serve as side tables to take on the excess and a wood decking wraps around the place facing straight out to sea (the table for two on the corner is just magical). Staff in red shorts and spotless white tees flit between tables, the day’s catch held aloft on gleaming stainless steel platters and chilled bottles of Empordà wine kept cold in ice-bags. It is all effortlessly

tastings

cool and yet completely unpretentious—save for the odd inevitable hipster—but largely it’s peopled by gregarious gatherings of friends and family, half tourists, half locals, easy-going and deliciously relaxed. Well, barbecue is, isn’t it? Nearly everything here is cooked on a wood grill, whether it’s plump blue mussels or sweetly succulent razor clams, an arroz seco with langostines or a slab of turbot hauled from the Bay of Begur 10 minutes ago. I go for a tomato salad and impeccably grilled sardines that are insanely fresh: buttery, smoky and kind of meaty. Then we have fideuá which I never ever have, because the good ones are so few and far between, but they are the most sonorous, dark, fish-heady, fabulous fideuá l’ve ever had. Al dente and standing to attention in the way that they should, they are generously filled with sepia and Palamós prawns so tender and delicious that after snapping off the head and sucking out the brains, I devour the rest, shell and all, because it would be criminal to discard that darkly delicious crust encasing the sweetest

THAT ROSE TIME OF YEAR It’s August and it’s hot. If there were ever something less obvious to say about Barcelona, I’ve yet to hear it. That’s why this column is about rosé. I’m generally a red drinker and I can appreciate whites in general, but rosé well, it’s generally a big fat oof. The idea I hear from most winemakers is that they design it to be a lighter red (most rosé wines are made from red grapes) that’s also fresh. I can appreciate this, but in the southern latitudes of Spain as well as Croatia, Greece, and others, the result is an overly sweet in the body wine; if it’s the wine of choice on the menu, I might opt for sangria. Maybe you like this sweeter style of rosé in the summer and I’m espousing blasphemy, but if your tastes are more like mine, then you’ll probably find that the French—especially in Provence—make an amazing rosé. That said, I present a local Catalan option that’s doing its own wonderful thing as well as a more traditional French option that excels on all points.

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Sicus Xarel·lo Vermell 2013 €12€ The editor of my books got turned on to Sicus sometime back and has been raving ever since about these natural wines by Eduard Pié in Baix Penedès. I finally had the chance to taste them and, wow. This rosé is something unique as it’s produced from the rather rare Grey Xarel·lo grape that’s somewhere between white and red. Fresh in the nose with apricot and peach skin it boasts great acidity in the mouth that’s balanced by a splash of perfectly ripe strawberries. Wonderfully light on the palate and elegant as hell. Chêne Bleu Rosé 2013 €16€ I originally encountered this French winery when they were presenting at G-Night alongside Catalan

of flesh. Finally, a revelation in the dessert stakes. Café gourmet—a café solo with a couple of hard almond cookies, a macaroon and two dark, chocolate truffles—not quite pudding, not quite petit fours, just perfect. In case anyone’s wondering—I’m in heaven. Happy summer one and all.

MORE INFO. Carrer de Platja d’Aiguablava 6, Begur. Tel. 97 211 3232 www.tocalmar.cat Open until October 15th, lunch and dinner €35-40 for three courses with wine. Group menus €45-80 including wine.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

winemakers who specialise in Grenache. What I tasted piqued my curiosity and they let me sample their entire range of recent wines, which have been outstanding. They also offer unique and lovely enotourism packages in case anyone needed an excuse to escape to Provence. This rosé opens with light aromas of crushed strawberries, raspberries and orange peel. The body is no end of fresh with present but not overpowering acidity and a punch of apricot tang that carries in to a relatively dry finish. It’s expertly made to be light, to pair with meals (including spicy dishes), and have depth. While not directly available in Barcelona, they will happily ship or again, you can pop up to the village of Crestet in Vaucluse for a visit www.chenebleu.com

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7/22/14 1:45:19 PM

40 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD&DRINK

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking € under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised

NEFW &D IN

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

Bar LA RUMBETA  BARRI GÒTIC La Rumbeta is a magical place located just off Las Ramblas. They offer a live musical performance of Rumba Catalana, including drinks and snacks. Catalan Rumba is the only native born musical style in our city from the twentieth century. Our artists are mostly Barcelona-Catalan gypsies, in a show that has authenticity, uniqueness and an unrivalled cultural quality in the Catalan capital. Come and enjoy the dynamic, interactive and fun show that is ‘La Rumbeta!’ €

FREE CD

Daily live shows 7.30pm-9.30pm Passatge Escudellers 7 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 649 018 920 | www.larumbeta.com

7SINS BAR AND LOUNGE EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place for a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterﬁeld sofas and elegant decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com €

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

PINT OF STELLA €3

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CAFÈ MANDACARÚPOBLE SEC The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suited to a coffee, glass of wine or excellent tapas. You can also enjoy a tasty cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere. Every week some of the city’s best musicians provide live music. € Magalhães 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

BAR CELONETA SANGRIA BAR BARCELONETA

Experience a huge variety of sangrias in this cozy place with a cool and chilled vibe where wine, fruit and spices are mixed with creativity and passion. It’s the ﬁrst and only vegan/vegetarian tapas bar in the district where one can enjoy an exquisite brunch from 12am to 4pm every Saturday and Sunday. The atmosphere is casual and relaxingl, with alternative background music. € Sevilla 70 (near Carrer de Juici) | Metro Barceloneta | Tel. 93 172 2280 www.bar-celoneta.es | Open Every day 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am”

BIERFEST TAVERNSAGRADA FAMILIA This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&T’s. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights. € Av. Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia T. 993 480 157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

THE LIME HOUSEBORN The latest creation from the guys at Rubi Bar, The Lime House keeps the red vibe and the €3.50 mojito, but has a lot more seating and delicious hot food plates. There are 70 gins on offer, and over 40 of then made in-house, try the ‘tomato/basil’ gin or, if you’re brave, the ‘roquefort cheese’ gin! No TV, and James Brown and the Black Keys are on the playlist. Open 7 days a week from 8pm. € Carders 31 I Metro Jaume 1

BELCHICA EIXAMPLE E

FLAHERTY'SBARRI GÒTIC

Barcelona´s Belgian beer experience, serving up to 70 ales, lagers, fruity beers and other specials like gueuzes from the beer country for locals, students and expats. Multilingual staff, regular art exhibitions, live music and hip events complete the perfect Belgian bar experience. Also sports on SKY, Belgian German and Dutch tv. Free Wi-Fi and outdoor terrace, private parties possible: ask for conditions and offers at the bar. €

Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s has become one of Barcelona’s best known and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food all day from 10am til midnight (including our popular Full Irish Breakfast as well as group menus), live satellite sports on big screens, WiFi, a sunny terrace and a pool room where you can also play darts, not to mention its very spacious premises, Flaherty’s has rightly become known as the pub that has it all! €

Villarroel 60, 08011 Metro Urgell, salida Villarroel Tel. 625 814 001 belchica@gmail.com

Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 6263

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FOOD & DRINK 41 ANDÚBARRI GÒTIC

PIM PAM BURGERBORN

Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, buritos, tacos and cocktails. €

At Pim Pam Burger quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are available and are all freshly prepared on the premises. €

Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am

Bakery NATA LISBOAEIXAMPLE Heir to one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world thats spans two centuries, NATA was born to produce and spread the most deliciously sweet tastes from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Pay them a visit to try their portuguese specialities and their sublime coffee blend. €

EADERS.

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Mallora 277 I natalisboa.com www.facebook.com/NATALisboaESPANA

Argentine

Bagel 9REINAS EIXAMPLE

BE MY BAGEL GRÀCIA

Argentine reastaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest. The restaurant has two ﬂoors and a private room which can host parties of up to nine people. €

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. €

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com/en

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Ice Cream

Burger

MANNA GELATS BARRI GÒTIC

BURGER UMAMI EIXAMPLE

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with marketbought products therefore boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

This burger joint is inspired by the ‘quinto sabor de Umami’ where they offer 30 types of 200g burgers including beef, salmon, chicken and vegetarian options, all made to order and served in artisan buns. With good prices and a friendly atmosphere, don´t be surprised if you see a famous actor or a renowned chef inside. Why not give it a go? Welcome invitation for all Metropolitan readers. €

NEWD

Floridablanca 148 | Infront of cinema Renoir Floridablanca | Tel. 93 292 7879 www.burgerumami.com

KEIK SARRIÀ / SANT GERVASI Keik has a great range of international fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year. €

IN F&

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

PLACE YOUR ADVERT HERE CALL 93 451 4486 ADS@BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM Indian / Tandoori BEMBÍINDIAN CULINARY

Experience authentic Indian cuisine in modern and sophisticated surroundings. Their dishes are created with passion by their head chef who has more than 10 years of experience in the best restaurants in both India and London. If you’re vegetarian, then you will love their exciting ﬂavours and aromas. Doctor Fleming 21 | Tel. 93 414 5536 | www.keik.es

Food & drink August 2014.indd 45

Consell de Cent 377, 08009 I Metro Girona (L4, yellow) I T. 93 502 4952 M. 645 257 701

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42 FOOD & DRINK Indian / Tandoori

Traditional FONDA ESPAÑA BARRI GÒTIC

SURYA EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona, is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic ﬂavors. They offer a cozy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes. €

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. € € Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Italian

Mexican TLAXCAL BORN

ACQUA & SALE  POBLENOU

Just a few steps from the new Born Centre Cultural, you will ﬁnd the best and most authentic mexican restaurant in Barcelona. They offer fresh, homemade guacamole, nachos, enchiladas, tacos, spicy aguachile, ceviche, and deserts, all of which are made with top quality, fresh ingredients. Enjoy a relaxed lunch or dinner in a cosy and modern place, with the best margaritas and micheladas in town. From Monday to Friday they offer a great lunch menu deal for just €11, including a starter, main course, dessert and drink. €

This is an authentic southern-Italian kitchen where you can enjoy traditional homemade dishes. Acqua & Sale only use the best Italian ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce. Enjoy the stylish and inviting ambience inside, or, in the warmer months, opt for their outdoor terrace. Sundays midday - brunch and live jazz. (12pm-3pm)

Comerç 27, 08003, Metro Barceloneta, Jaume I Tel. 93 268 4134 info@tlaxcal.com | www.tlaxcal.com Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 8pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 1pmmidnight, kitchen open all day, Closed Tues

Joncar 17, 08005 | Tel. 93 517 0709 acquaesaletrattoria@hotmail.com www.acquaesale.es | Closed Tue

Juice bar

Pizza SANOSANTS

MESSIÉ PIZZAGRÀCIA

Sano Juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps and a tasty lunch menu for €10.45. Our food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality.

Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available. €

Sano Cuina Buenos Aires specialises in take-away salads, wraps and drinks, as well as healthy lunch menus that change twice a week. Eat better = Feel better. €

Buenos Aires 44 , 08036 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 217 81 15 | Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm

Torrent de l’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight www.messiepizza.es I Metro Fontana / Diagonal

Tapas BARIBAU EIXAMPLE Premium spirits, fresh produce and an innovative menu is why Baribau, a new bar/ restaurant in the heart of the Eixample, has been voted as one of the top 100 in Barcelona. Located just 5 minutes from Rambla Catalunya, Baribau serves delicious tapas-style dishes and perfectly balanced cocktails, catering for everyone’s taste. €

NEWD IN F&

Food & drink August 2014.indd 46

Aribau131 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 004 2186 | www.baribau.com

VITALI PIZZA BARCELONA Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for €15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! €

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clínic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

7/23/14 3:02:33 PM

HEALTH

dISCOUNT FOR METROpOLITAN REAdERS.

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

BUSINESS to advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com see also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

Nart Dental Clinic - DeNtist this state-of-the-art clinic is located close to la sagrada familia and directed by english speaking dentist Dr. Jose Nart, Usa trained and Chairman for the Department of periodontology and implant Dentistry at (UiC). he obtained his phD in Dentistry with the highest degree. their specialist team uses the latest technology to ensure the best possible results. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader discounts and offers.

DeNtist sanz pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and terrassa provides excellent oral care in an englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy pancko, an american dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier sanz is an american Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

Padilla 368, 08025 Metro: Alfons X (L4) T. 93 456 7003 jose@nartperiodoncia.com www.nartclinicadental.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dr. Boj - DeNtist Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry. he became a specialist at the school of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, N.Y., Usa. fast and friendly service in an international environment where we speak english.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Orthoestetic - DeNtist the orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the sagrada familia. they have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Abaden Dental Group - DeNtist advanced Dentistry in Barcelona. Methodology: a primary distinctive at abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. this groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service. procedures: implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry languages: english, russian, french and portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

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HEALTH

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST / PSYCHOTHERAPIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

FREE CONSULTATION

M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

Psychotherapist Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

Pharmacy Serra Mandri CHEMIST

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

M. 654 393 629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

NEST - Network of English Speaking Therapists The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

MP 43-48 August 2014.indd 44

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

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HEALTH · BUSINESS SERVICES

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Dr. Steven Joseph - DoCtor established in 2005, googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. Uk doctor steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests. Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.googolmedicalcentre.com

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman - aCUpUNCtUre Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. english, spanish and german spoken. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Therapies Adam - therapist Does a headache or migraine interfere with your daily life? Do you suffer from stress and anxiety? is an old whiplash injury still causing problems? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have jaw or eye tension? are you looking for the right path and more peace and balance in your life? Do you suffer from depression? Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.terapias-adam.com

Panizo Institute CraNiosaCral osteopathY osteopathy treats the body, mind and emotions as one. By working with the osteopath you can treat the more commonly known ailments of low back and neck pain, but also treat headaches, migraine, digestive problems and stress relief. Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.craneosacral-panizo.com

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - MiDwife

Centro Quiropráctico Vida - ChiropraCtor Daryn J.wiese is an american trained and board certified chiropractor that directs one of the most well known practices in Barcelona-Vida Centro Quiropractico. the practice known for its quality service with a friendly and professional environment having a very high user-satisfaction rate. The care is specific, effective, and comfortable as it shows with practice members ranging from 15 days to 96 years of age. Carrer Diputació 168 Tda. 2, 08011 Metro: Urgell (L1) Bus 14, 20, 37, 59 T. 93 451 5301 quiropracticavida@gmail.com www.quiropracticavida.com

Clínica Masculina Europea MeDiCal CeNter Clínica Masculina europea is one of the most pioneering medical centers at a national level. the most common sexual dysfunctions treated are: erectile dysfunction, early ejaculation, penile Curvature, perturbation of sexual desire. Urologic problems: prostate symptoms, fimosis, Vasectomy.

Valencia 281 Entlo. 2º, 08009 T. 93 219 3060 info@clinica-masculina.com www.clinica-masculina.com

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd CoNsUltaNCY

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. she also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. she is supported in her practice by a team of spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.

fletcher Consultancy ltd. now operates in spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, hr services for development of competence based systems. our Uk business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. we have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com www.barcelonamidwife.com

shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.ﬂetcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Spain Accounting taX aND aCCoUNtiNg serViCes Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in spain offers: · tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · income tax returns for employees & non-residents · registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (sl) · practical advice on setting up a business in spain · fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

Sánchez Molina legal praCtiCe the lawyers at sánchez Molina speak english, spanish, italian and french. they can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

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46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BUSINESS SERVICES · SCHOOLS

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué -

ARC97SL - OFFICE AND HOME IMPROVEMENTS

BUSINESS LAWYER As a business lawyer and legal consultant, Víctor Sánchez Vaqué offers legal advice and assistance to foreign and local companies and individuals in contracting, licensing, negotiation, investment projects and other legal areas of business in different sectors.

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué

Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests. They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget. Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

M. 616 233 333 vsanchez@icab.cat

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

Just Royal -

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Cooking Workshop

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

Just Royal is a Mediterranean cooking school that teaches you how to create authentic Spanish dishes using traditional ingredients. Chef Alfredo Rodriguez will teach you his special industry secrets and recipes that will impress friends when you return home. The workshops are great fun if you’re looking for activities for friends and family that are visiting. They also make a great alternative for your birthday celebrations and even corporate team building activities.

10% discount for groups of 6+

Plaza Real 3, B, 08002, M. 636 869 855 espacio@justroyalbcn.com www.JustRoyalBCN.com

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

STOP N’ DRIVE DRIVING school

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

MP 43-48 August 2014.indd 44

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm. STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey. Become a driver in Barcelona! Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

7/23/14 2:37:56 PM

SCHOOLS · BEAUTY

Heaven - Massage

Moloka’i - staND-Up paDDle Molokai’s sUp Centre is the place to go if you’re looking to do stand-up paddle in Barcelona. their passionate team provides an excellent experience. relax and forget your worries in this fun environment where you can keep fit and have fun at the same time. they have membership plans with special prices and activities, open every day of the year. Meer 39, M. 654 082 099 www.molokaisupcenter.com

american-trained massage therapist Carrie lewis has 15 years of experience soothing and releasing both muscular and emotional pain and tension. her focus is deep-tissue massage, which she combines with reflexology, reiki, and other complementary techniques. she also specialises in pregnancy and postpartum massage. this excellent vocational massage therapist with years of training and experience will make a difference in your personal wellbeing. Chair massage for events and home visits available.

Born Wellness center - BeaUtY Born wellness Centre, in the heart of el Born, is a beautiful studio, providing restorative relief from the city. our team of trained practitioners support you in Movement therapy, Chiropractic and Massage. Born wellness provides a highly personalized approach to assist you on your journey to wholeness and health. Sombrerers 27, 08003 info@bornwellness.com www.bornwellness.com

HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47

Contessa de Pardo Bazán 24 M. 639 533 523

BCN Cuts - BarBer shop

Aire de Barcelona araB Baths

Directly from Boston to gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

in aire Barcelona, they love the stamp of tradition and the wisdom of the ages. they adapt to the current century perfectly, and have plunged it into an atmosphere of sophistication, magic, relaxation and health, thus turning the legacy of the arab baths into a totally new therapeutic experience.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Paseo Picasso 22, 08003 M 609 338 823 www.airedebarcelona.com

Coral - spaNish teaCher Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. she will come to your home or business and provide the material. all levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. if you need classes via skYpe, she can also offer online lessons. she is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

10% dISCOUNT

BERLITZ - sChool at Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for english, french, german, russian and spanish. their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert. Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

MP 43-48 August 2014.indd 45

BCN L.I.P. - laNgUage sChool BCN lip language school is a small school located in the heart of the gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn spanish, Catalan, english, french, german, portuguese, russian, italian, Japanese, Chinese and hebrew. the courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. they also offer specialised summer programs, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

7/23/14 2:38:02 PM

48 DIRECTORY

SHOPPING for more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

BATEAU LUNE

KITSCH

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

ECOOLOGY

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

24 KILATES

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

PARRUP

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

AMANTIS

Torrent de l’Olla 145 · M: Fontana · T. 93 501 0641 · www.amantis.net

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Situated in the heart of Gracia, amantis is a new erotic haven where you’ll find thousands of reasons to not get out of bed. Offering a large variety of erotic toys, oils and lubricants, erotic shoes, condoms, books and DVDs, amantis has something for every gender and sexuality. Soon to offer workshops and activities.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

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Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

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DIRECTORY 49

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiﬁeds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Barcelona Metropolitan is currently recruiting an:

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Required: • Fluent in English and Spanish • A passionate and driven sales individual • Must be self-motivated and a strong closer • Solid time management and the ability to work independently

Please send a cover letter and CV to: accounts@barcelona-metropolitan.com

WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK AS A MODEL? We are looking for new models & actors for 2014. We are interested in candidates of all types and ages. You can drop by our offices from Monday to Friday: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00 Email your cv to : jma@modelos.net Visit our website: www.modelos.net Dolors Masferrer i Bosch, 20-22, entlo, 08028

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50 BACK PAGE

dan wilde I uk, tourist guide

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

’m from Sheffield. I first came to Barcelona in 1991. I was 13 years old and did a two-week exchange programme. It was quite the experience as the exchange partners were a few years older, so we were exposed to the crazy and late Spanish night life at probably a too-young age. This was the year before the Olympics, so the city was a completely different place. Some things didn’t exist, like the Rambla de Raval, the beaches, but also the reputations of places were not as they are now. Plaça Reial for example was a very dangerous place to hang out. I frequented Barcelona pretty much every year after that. It became my second home and I picked up the languages over the years. By the time I started university in Cardiff, I was pretty fluent in Catalan and Spanish. I did an Erasmus year in both Barcelona and Brasil. Now, I’m an official tourist guide accredited by the Catalan government. I am probably one of the only native English speaking guides. Getting this licence was not easy, and I had to wait a few years in order to take the exam due to paperwork formalities and delays. For some reason they make the exam almost impossible to pass. It’s a multiple choice exam, but one of those horrendous ones that if you answer a question wrong, you lose a point, and so on. Some questions are ridiculous: one asked about the floorplan of a random church in the middle of some village in the Pyrenees that no one has ever heard of. I think out of the 400 people that took the exam, 100 or so passed. The licence basically gives me privileges that other tourist guides don’t have, for example access and permission to give tours in some of the major attractions in the city. I also get into these places for free and without queuing. My worst job ever was the equivalent of a ‘yellow coat’ at a hotel in Salou, which I did before university. It was pretty demoralising. We were left to do everything from choreographing the Macarena for the kids, to getting people to sing karaoke; we even had to draw the food on the menus—the whole experience was quite bizarre. My favourite type of people on my tours are the Americans. They’re always very enthusiastic, and the wealth of history in Barcelona is just fascinating for them. I think the remains of the Temple de Agusto in Carrer de Paradís is probably what the majority of people find most impressive on my tours. The age of the columns is incomprehensible for some people. If I could be a tour guide in any other city, it would have to be Sheffield. The people are extremely friendly and the area has a lot of industrial history. I may have chosen to live in Spain, but my roots are in Sheffield, and I still love that place.

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