Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 212

SEPTEMBER 2014 Nยบ 212 Free

second time around

Old buildings, new tricks Breathing new life into abandoned spaces.

SEPTEMBER 11TH 01 cover.indd 1

Fashion

pullout calendar

restaurant reviews

Treasure on your street corner

priorat Discover this winemaking region

interview Civil war veteran Ernesto Carratalรก

A PLACE OF MY OWN 8/25/14 12:33:29 PM

main pages July 2014.indd 1

6/25/14 3:00:47 PM

main pages August 2014.indd 3

7/16/14 2:14:19 PM

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2014 Regulars 06 08 09 10 34 36 50

New in Town In the City Recipe A Place of My Own Travel Food & Drink Interview

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Editor Esther Jones Assistant Editor Daniel Whitehead Art Director Aisling Callinan

What’s on 20 22 24 26

Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell

Music Art Best of the Rest Pullout September Calendar

Sales Assistant Martijn Bronder Editorial Assistant Dale Hart Design Assistant Andrea López Contributors Anthony Baines, Chris Finnigan, Miguel Hudin, Jamie Melbourne, Carol Moran, Alx Phillips, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens, Daniel Whitehead

Features

13 Fashion Our pick of the best this month 14 REPORT: Old buildings, new tricks Carol Moran talks to the architects creating new spaces in Barcelona.

28 A special kind of louse Ernesto Carratalá recounts his experiences of the Civil War. 30 Second time around The streets are a source of treasure on Día de trastos vells.

33 300 years on Catalunya commemorates the tricentennial of September 11th, 1714.

Cover image Photographer Andrea López Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com.

Carrer de la Ciutat 7 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona.

Tel. 93 451 4486

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Directories Food & Drink Business Shopping Jobs

Depósito legal: B35159-96

contributors

40 43 48 49

Jamie Melbourne-Hayward After residing in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter for three years, journalist and writer Jamie Melbourne-Hayward has now returned to his home town of Wellington, New Zealand; mostly to punish himself for spending too much time in the Spanish sun, but also to reflect on the indelible influence Catalunya and the indignado movement has had on him. His work has been published in both Europe and Oceania. byacereporter.blogspot.com

04. contents.indd 1

CAROL MORAN Originally from the northeast of England, Carol is an architect-turned-writer with a passion for travelling and all things design. She first lived in Barcelona in 2008, when she came here to study. She returned in 2012 to try her luck in a city bursting with creative energy. Writing for Metropolitan has given her the opportunity to turn her hand to a different form of creative expression and, at the same time, pursue the many secrets of this eclectic city. carolsportfolio.wordpress.com/

DALE HART Dale studied History at Lindenwood University in St. Louis, USA, after hopping across the pond on a swimming scholarship in 2009. He decided to hang around, picking up a job as a features reporter for the city’s paper before switching codes for a short stint in PR. A big fan of triathlon, you’ve probably seen him mowing down runners along the Diagonal. Dale moved to Barcelona this summer swapping snowfall for sunshine and is currently an editorial assistant at Metropolitan.

8/25/14 12:32:34 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 10

8/25/14 2:55:10 PM

06 IN THE CITY

NEW IN TOWN ORGANIC STYLE Organic food shoppers will love this sleek new space on Diagonal.

Started by three Galician friends, Feeld Organic aims to bring healthy, ethical eating to a new level of comfort and style. Divided into three different levels, Feeld Organic combines a supermarket, cafe, restaurant and florist in bright and welcoming surroundings. The décor is a natural mix of wood and white walls presided over by a floral mural by artist Conrad Roset. You can enjoy their delicious fare any time of the day, from breakfast through to dinner.

Feeld Organic. Diagonal 449. www.feeldorganic.com

get your skates on Roex is the new rollerblade shop and brainchild of close friends and inline skate enthusiasts Oli Benet and Joan García.

Located in the Centre de la Vila shopping centre in Vila Olímpica, the store offers both the newest skate products alongside quality collections of outlet goods. Benet and García’s intention was to create a conventional skate shop that resembled a trendy footwear store, and the result isn’t half bad. They also hold skate lessons for all levels on Saturday mornings and organise evening skating routes in the city. So why not take up a new way of getting around town this autumn?

Roex. Centro Comercial Centre de la Vila. www.roex.es

TEA TIME In a country where coffee is almost a religion, a new space devoted to tea has only one option but to get it right. This 400-square-metre oasis for tea lovers in the Eixample offers a lot more than your average tea room. The bright and airy space hosts an exquisite bistro which offers dishes from morning till late at night, with a regular programme of live jazz sessions. The adjoining store has a huge selection of teas and herbal teas from almost every country on the map.

ArtTe, it seems, could be many people’s cup of tea.

ArtTe. Muntaner 83. www.artte.es

top-notch Brunch It’s official: the brunch craze has invaded and conquered the city. Thankfully, having too many options is never something to worry about. Petit Pot Cafe-Bistro in Plaça Urquinaona opened its doors just a couple of months ago, and offers everything from homemade quiche to carrot cake and, quite possibly, the best Eggs Benedict you ever did try. Many similar places try hard but fail to achieve the ‘New York’ vibe, but with great food in a warm and sociable environment, these guys have it nailed.

Think Central Park with Mediterranean charm.

Petit Pot Bistro. Plaça Urquinaona 4. www.petitpotcafe.com

6-7. new in town.indd 6

8/25/14 3:11:47 PM

IN THE CITY 07

La MerCÈ September 19th-24th

Barcelona will be celebrating its patron saint in style this month, with six days packed with culture and tradition. Over two million people took part in last year’s festivities and 2014 is set to be just as busy with more than 600 free events happening around the city. Stockholm is this year’s invited city, so keep an eye out for hot new Swedish talent.

The complete programme of events is published about two weeks before the festival begins (see www.merce.bcn.cat/en).

In the meantime, here’s a roundup of the main events.

Tradition The festivities kick off with giants and dragons in Pl. Sant Jaume, and for the following five days the city is filled with firebreathing dragons, cap grossos (big heads), esbarts (traditional dance groups), bastoners (stick dancers), trabucaires (ancient armed bandits) and giants. You’ll come across all these colourful characters and more in parades and events throughout the city. There will also be plenty of castellers, sardanes and, of course, the correfoc on Sunday 21st. Don’t forget to cover up to protect yourself from flying sparks.

Firework displays take place on the 22nd and 23rd.

Music Barcelona Acció Musical (BAM) is a four-day festival that celebrates the best local, national and international indie music and takes place each year during the Mercè festivities. BAM will be holding 60 free concerts in 10 outdoor venues between September 19th and 23rd. www.bcn.cat/bam Running alongside BAM is a series of concerts that range from folk and electropop to punk and everything in between, and include new local talent and some big international names.

The concerts take place on public stages around the city with Pl. Catalunya and Av. de la Catedral reserved for the biggest crowd pullers.

Performance The MAC Street Arts Festival showcases the year’s most outstanding shows, and premieres new productions that are starting their season. The festival has two main venues: the Parc de la Ciutadella will host shows devoted to dance, performance and new technologies, and Montjuïc Castle will feature top national and international circus acts.

Free museums On September 24th the city’s museums and galleries offer free admission.

Open days Many of the city’s institutions open their doors to the public for La Mercè, including the Ajuntament and the Palau de la Generalitat.

Associations Fair On September 20th, 21st and 24th, there is a huge fair dedicated to Barcelona’s NGOs. The stalls fill Pl. Catalunya and Pg. de Gràcia, alongside games to keep the kids happy while you’re browsing. www.mostrabcn.cat La Cursa de la MercÈ One of the city’s most popular 10ks, 17,000 people will put their running shoes on for the Cursa de la Mercè. It takes place on September 28th after the festivities have ended.

6-7. new in town.indd 7

8/25/14 3:11:48 PM

08 IN THE CITY

Hammocks at Pl. de les Glòries Pl. de les Glòries is rapidly shedding its former image of traffic-clogged no-mans land. For the next eight weeks, between 9am and 10pm, you can hire hammocks, tables, chairs and parasols and laze in the sun on the open space next to the Design Hub. This is a pilot plan and if successful may be extended to other spaces in the city.

Housing First in Barcelona Barcelona will adopt the US system ‘Housing First’ to help homeless people. Rather than treating housing as something that people need to somehow qualify for, the system prioritises independent living as an essential first step in getting people off the street.

Other European cities, such as Amsterdam, Glasgow and Dublin, have also applied the strategy successfully.

Surge in ranks of self-employed A reduction in the amount of autónomos fees that the self-employed pay has led to an increase in the number of self-employed people in Spain. Over 267,000 people have taken advantage of the new legislation that was introduced in March this year.

Imax closes its doors IMAX has announced the closure of both its Barcelona IMAX cinemas. The Barcelona IMAX, which is located in Port Vell, opened in 1995 but has seen a big drop in visitors over the last few years.

There are proposals to use the site for shops and restaurants.

Illegal terraces Fifty five percent of the 4,501 bar and restaurant terraces in the city do not meet all legal requirements and over 250 operate without a licence. The inspection process is being stepped up to catch places flouting the law, particularly those that operate illegally.

Bread & Butter returns to Barcelona Barcelona will once more host the Winter edition of the annual fashion fair after losing out to Berlin in 2009. The fair will be held at the Fira de Barcelona from January 8th-10th in 2015. The Summer edition will continue to take place in the German capital.

Check out our Friday Informer for a weekly news roundup. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

8-9. In the city.indd 6

SWINGING BARCELONA Swing dancing and lindy hop are enjoying a healthy revival in Barcelona. In dance schools, parks, museums and squares, people are at it everywhere. And why not?

It’s fun, sociable and great exercise. There’s no shortage of places to learn the moves and plenty of opportunities to strut your stuff with the best of them. Here’s our list to get you started.

OUTDOOR SWING JAMS

SEPTEMBER EVENTS

SCHOOLS

Lindy al Parc First and third Sunday of the month between 12pm and 2.30pm (October to April) or 6pm till 8.30pm (May to September) at the Parc de la Ciutadella bandstand.

Jazzing Festival 21st. 11am-12.30pm. Pl. Comerç.

Free swing session with the Sant Andreu Jazz Band. Organised by Swing Maniacs.

BallaSwing Ros de Olano 9. www.ballaswing.cat

Gràcia. Pl. de la Virreina Last Sunday of the month.

12.30pm-2.30pm.

Gràcia. Pl. de la Revolució.

6pm-8pm. First Saturday of the month.

Poblenou. In front of the Casino, Rbla del Poblenou.

Second Saturday of the month.

12pm-2.30pm.

MNAC swing sessions 13th. 5pm-7pm. MNAC. Palau Nacional. Montjuïc.

Swing dancing with live music in the museum foyer, courtesy of the Flat Foot Flogie Boys. Free entry.

Summer Swing Jam 10pm till midnight. Swing Maniacs.

Carrer de l’Església 4.

Swing jam open to all (€4 for non-students).

Sants. Pl. Osca.

Third Sunday of the month, 12pm-2.30pm.

METROPOLITAN PEOPLE JORDAN,

22, Teacher, England I’m all in agreement for selfdetermination and believe they should be able to decide the future for themselves. Though do I think it’s a good idea that they separate? Absolutely not. For me it’s the same as Scotland and the UK: a divided Spain only weakens both sides.

Hopefully they can sit down and resolve whatever issues they have.

Swing Maniacs Carrer de l’Església 4. www.swingmaniacs.com Lindyhop.cat Torrijos 70. www.orfeogracienc.cat Spank the Baby Vistalegre 18. www.spankthebaby.net

OTHER BCNSwing This non-profit organisation is dedicated to promoting swing dance in the city. www.bcnswing.org

Photo by Lee Woolcock

the informer

YES OR NO TO CATALAN INDEPENDENCE REFERENDUM? SARA,

26, Marketing Executive, US I’ve been living here for just over five years now and have really been swept along by this whole movement. For me, the passion and determination the people of Catalunya have shown deserves some sort of notice. The ability to at least find out the popular opinion. It’s not like this signals an immediate breakaway from Spain.

8/25/14 12:17:09 PM

RECIPE

IN THE CITY 09

SALMON THAI-ISH BURGERS WITH ASIAN SLAW Prep time: 25 mins. Cook time: 10 mins. Makes: 7-8 INGREDIENTS • 2 x 200gr salmon fillets, skin and fat removed • 3 teaspoons finely-grated ginger • 2 teaspoons crushed garlic • 2 tablespoons chopped spring onions • 1 handful fresh coriander, chopped • 1 tablespoon curry powder • 1 teaspoon salt • ½ tablespoon table grind pepper • 1 egg, beaten • ½ cup crushed panko breadcrumbs • Fresh lime juice • Vegetable oil, for greasing Asian Slaw: • 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar • 3 teaspoons ponzu sauce • 1 tablespoon sugar • ½ tablespoon salt • Pinch black pepper • Juice of 3 limes • 2 seedless cucumbers, peeled, seeded and julienned • 1 red bell pepper, julienned • ½ head green cabbage, shredded • ½ head red cabbage, shredded

Photo by Lee Woolcock

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Poach the salmon for about 10 minutes in water.

2. Lightly whisk the egg in a small bowl. Use only half the egg at first as a whole egg is sometimes too much. Flake the salmon gently into a bowl and combine with the ginger, garlic, spring onions, coriander, salt, pepper and egg and mix well. Form the salmon into patties and coat with the breadcrumbs.

3. Lightly oil a grill or griddle over a medium heat. Cook a small portion of the mixture to test for seasoning and then adjust with salt and pepper as needed. Cook the patties, about two to three minutes per side.

4. It is best to make the Asian slaw ahead of time and let sit for at least an hour to allow the flavours to blend together. Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Adjust the taste with lime.

Anjalina Chugani was born in London but moved to Bangalore, India when she was 15; since 2000, she has been living in Barcelona where she works as an English teacher. A self-taught cook, she held Social Suppers in the meeatings23 space, and has a blog for recipes and food photography, www.rainbowspoon.com. rainbowspoonfood@gmail.com

KYLE

21, Student, England I think it’s a great opportunity for them to find out where they’re at, I mean, what the general opinion is. They can’t really move forward without it, whichever direction that may be. There seems to be a lot of fear surrounding the issue but who knows?

Maybe the results swing in favour of union.

VICTOR

38, Catalan Professor, Spain I firmly believe the right to determine the future of Catalunya lays in the hands of the Catalan people. We have tried to sit down with the Spanish government, reform our way to an agreeable situation but this simply hasn’t happened. Now it’s the time for change.

8-9. In the city.indd 7

8/25/14 12:17:12 PM

10 A PLACE OF MY OWN

An international flavour

Charles Smith’s home in the Eixample is filled with furnishings collected on his travels.

I

t’s hard to say where Charles Smith is from. Born in Denmark, yes, but over the past 12 years he’s called Africa, Thailand, Vietnam, Zimbabwe, Egypt and now Spain, home.

Working in international logistics certainly has its perks, but the absence of a European office and the desire for a change of pace, led to a switch of lifestyle.

Charles moved into this apartment on the corner of Gran Via and Carrer de Bailèn back in 2011. “I’d looked around and have a lot of friends living in this area,” says Charles. “It’s perfect, close to the Arc de Triomf and the beach but just far enough from the crowded streets of the centre.”

After a trip up the quaint, little red elevator to the third floor, it’s easy to see he made a smart choice. The doors open into a spacious, four-bedroom apartment that comfortably maintains a homely feel while its white-painted walkways highlight a collection of, let’s say, unique furnishings.

10-11. my space.indd 6

8/25/14 12:38:25 PM

A PLACE OF MY OWN 11 The gallery located at the back of the property, is light yet cool, with leafy views out onto the rear terrace.

The entrance hall is bright and airy, and is the perfect introduction to this tasteful home.

“I’ve always enjoyed going to markets wherever I’ve lived in the world,” says Charles. “Most pieces here I’ve accumulated from all that travelling over the years.”

And it’s clear to see the international influence. A quick glance sees a beautifully-crafted Egyptian coffee table (Charles’ first ever piece) lying neatly between two Danish lamps and a prototype bulldog carving from Target. Angle left towards the guest bedrooms and you notice a hand-drawn scripture from Thailand, an incredibly detailed wood carving from a brief trip to the Ivory Coast and a collection of medallions from a stint in China.

You can’t help but think every piece here has a story, some little piece of history to go with it. And when prompted, Charles nods his head, and smiles in agreement. Pointing to a metal spider’s web hanging from the ceiling of the master bedroom, he explains, “I first noticed this in a friend’s apartment in Frankfurt. She told me she had a spare so delightedly, I folded it up in my hand luggage.

German security saw it as art. When I touched down in Cairo, well, you should have seen the looks I received!”

But most important to Charles is to have a nice, comfortable space to relax in. “If you’ve had a bad day at work, it can make all the difference,” he explains. And with an apartment like this, we couldn’t agree more.

10-11. my space.indd 7

8/25/14 12:38:54 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 8

8/25/14 2:21:57 PM

FASHION 13

infashion Barcelona style we’re lusting after.

This month we explore the vintage shops on Riera Baixa.

SHOP Omaha beach Leather jacket €50

SHOP Lailo Hat €35

Our pick SHOP De Faralaee Dress €20

SHOP Kilostore

Bag (price by kilo)

streetstyle Leeni, 24 Leeni hails all the way from Finland, bringing some Scandinavian style to the city. Her dress is

by Swedish designer Bic Boc and her shoes come from a vintage store in Wales.

Jimmy, 30 Also from Finland, Jimmy is in Barcelona for the first time for some sun, sea and sand. He prefers not to stick to a particular brand. Here he mixes pieces from H&M, Clarke’s, O.N.E. and Moscat.

Mariana, 30 On holiday from Mexico City, Mariana gets her inspiration from high-street brand Zara. It’s no surprise then that her top and shoes are from Zara. She teams them with a pair of seventies vintage denim shorts.

13. Fashion.indd 6

SHOP Xuxu & vintage Palm dress €20 Sunglasses €15 Shirt €60

8/25/14 12:27:13 PM

14

FEATURE

a diamond in the rough

NEW APPROACHES TO OLD BUILDINGS. By CAROL MORAN.

A timber insert into the floor defines the boundary between the day and night zone and allows light to flow freely through Twin House – a project within the same building as Casa Roc.

14-18. Report.indd 2

8/25/14 2:49:45 PM

FEATURE 15

“O

tra habitación, sin ventana,” sighs our estate agent, Manuel, as he despondently shows us around yet another flat that has little or no obvious potential. Or does it?

Anyone who has ever embarked on a house hunt in Barcelona, will probably verify that the housing stock can suffer from limited natural light and incomprehensible space distributions, making it difficult to spot the potential for transforming it into your dream home.

However, if you’ve been following our new feature, ‘A place of my own’, we’ve already met a handful of happy reforma residents, proving that with an empty space, an eye for opportunity and bags of imagination, you can, indeed, make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear.

Crisis = Danger + Opportunity?

As is often said, crisis is a fertile ground for opportunity. Despite the well-documented economic crisis that has had a decimating grip on the Spanish construction industry over the last six years, a surprising number of projects still seem to emerge from the creative hothouse of Barcelona, popping up across the international architectural press, even if the majority are of a restorative nature.

It’s no secret that architects have seen better days in this city. In the good times, there were projects and practices aplenty, and architects could pick and choose where and what projects they worked on. Since then, scores of practices have closed their doors, talented youngsters and established professionals alike have sought pastures new, whilst many have reinvented themselves in other sectors. Some, however, have bitten the bullet and opened their own practices, arguably in the worst possible moment.

One such practice is Nook Architects, who set up shop in 2011.

Anna García met Joan Cortés and Rubén Férez whilst working at a larger practice, where they formed a strong design team from the start. “We’ve worked and designed together for many years now,” says Cortés. “Ana has always been the boss,” adds Férez playfully. When the crisis started to take hold, the three architects made a firm decision to stand their ground, stand by their profession, and not become another emigration statistic.

In search of a Plan B, Nook began as a hobby for the trio, who continued with other work alongside. What turned out to be a golden opportunity arose when an acquaintance (and property developer) offered them the chance to renovate a dilapidated apartment in the Gothic Quarter. With a very low budget, no fees, but complete design freedom, Nook Architects was born.

This first project—Casa Roc—led to three more renovations within the same building, several further commissions, and a growing client base and reputation. Since then, they have become masters of making something out of nothing, and have recently been nominated for the prestigious FAD awards.

In with the old, out with the new Not surprisingly, Nook have worked exclusively with existing buildings thus far, in sharp contrast to the pre-crisis years, when the trio worked primarily on new-build construction. After all, making the best of what we have is pertinent in a time of austerity.

Indeed, prudence can be a virtue in Nook’s opinion; “In some ways, our design mentality is in harmony with the frugality of the current economic situation,” explains García. “Before the crisis, attitudes were wasteful and there was a lot of unnecessary expenditure, with generous budgets often blown indiscriminately on expensive products. We believe that the key focus of a project should be identified, and design and cost resources concentrated on that element. If a project can come in under budget, even better.”

In terms of the environmental agenda, the reinvention of space

14-18. Report.indd 3

also represents a large-scale form of recycling, a merit appreciated in a forward-thinking city like Barcelona. “We have come to realise just how many empty flats there are in the city centre; flats with lots of potential in fantastic locations, which can be renovated with a much smaller budget than building a new building,” says García. “It makes a lot more economic and environmental sense to improve these flats and make them last another 100 years than to consume more land resources with new construction—and we come from a background of new-build!”

Of course, if the building is in good shape, then the major work is half done. More often than not, however, Nook have found their projects in a terrible state, requiring a lot more than interior finishes.

“Although working on small-scale renovation projects has given us the opportunity to really get involved with the finer details of the interior spaces, we don’t consider ourselves interior designers. It would be more accurate to define us as ‘Architects who intervene in existing buildings’.”

How things have changed And radical interventions are often required. We’re not just talking about papering over the cracks or knocking down the odd wall; these renovations represent another concept for the traditional buildings of Barcelona, many of which are over 100 years old and were designed for a different era and lifestyle. These historical buildings often have great potential, but can present considerable challenges in meeting the comfort requirements of today’s society.

The typical building depth can be a serious obstacle for natural light and ventilation, measuring around 25 metres front to back in many cases, resulting in small rooms with little or no natural light or ventilation. Location or lack of drainage pipes can also cause problems with incorporating the bathroom internally. In the past, communal bathrooms were located elsewhere, the private bathroom was a late addition, which is why it is often found within the balcony or gallery area.

And besides the physical limitations, lifestyles across Europe have changed radically over the last century. “I think there are two key issues,” summarises García. “The first relates to thermal comfort. Before heating or cooling systems were introduced, people sought refuge in the inner spaces of the apartments for warmth, away from windows and drafts. Large, open rooms were synonymous with discomfort. The second relates to the sofa and the concept of living with which it is associated. In the past, the concept of eating dinner then relaxing on the sofa simply didn’t exist, at least not in the same room. We’ve gone from social areas that featured the dining table and little else to practically bypassing the table and eating on the sofa.”

In Spain, these changes have happened very fast, influenced particularly by Nordic ideals. “As you flick through an Ikea catalogue, they’re not just selling you home furnishings, they’re marketing a lifestyle.”

“I think there is also an element of space colonisation,” adds Férez thoughtfully. “In the past, people lived in much smaller, modest spaces with strictly defined uses—bedroom for sleeping, dining room for dining. In fact, in the typical Eixample flat, certain spaces were closed off according to season.”

Today, on the contrary, light, open spaces are in vogue. Although open plan living is not a 21st-century concept—Frank Lloyd Wright first pioneered the idea in the early 1900s—it is only in recent decades that it has filtered down to the everyday home. The idea of a light, open space where you can socialise, cook, and share everything together is becoming the preference of modern society, particularly where space is limited. It is not without its inconveniences though: noise, smells and a lack of intimacy being the primary downsides.

>>

8/25/14 2:49:45 PM

16

FEATURE

Peeling back the years Before a space can be reinvented, apartments para reformar often need to be stripped back completely, with no guarantee of what might be lurking below the surface, for better or worse. “The strangest thing that we have found so far has probably been a rotten leg of jamón. The smell was abominable,” recalls Cortés. “We’ve also found many hidden doors,” adds Férez, “Although no hidden rooms...yet.”

“And what about the well?!” exclaims García. “We found an inaccessible volume within an apartment. We thought it was a well until a neighbour presented an alternative theory; that it was a secret escape route used during the Civil War, leading to a series of tunnels beneath Ciutat Vella!”

“The strangest thing that we have found so far has probably been a rotten leg of jamón. The smell was abominable!” recalls Cortés.

“There are a lot of legends surrounding the old town,” adds Cortés. “I suppose that some of them must be true, or I guess there wouldn’t be so many.”

However, this stripping back of material can also pleasantly surprise, and present the opportunity to reveal the hidden beauty in a space. Commonly in Barcelona, this can mean removing layers of false ceilings to expose a beautiful barrel-vaulted ceramic ceiling, known as the volta catalana.

In the past, however, exposing this structural element was to leave the building unfinished with its skeleton on show—not the done thing at a time when extravagant, decorative finishes were all the rage. “Today, we often say that this process of stripping back a building to its bare bones is to regain the original spirit of the building, when, in fact, these ceiling structures, no matter how beautiful, were not built to be seen,” observes García.

A false ceiling, with decorative mouldings, would typically sit below the arches, serving as both an acceptable finish and to conserve heat. “If we find an original false ceiling in good condition, removing it would be unthinkable, vault or no vault!”

Another jewel that often comes to light is the emblematic tiled flooring. Colourful designs composed of 20cm x 20cm tiles emerged in the 19th century, when a revolutionary tile-making technique was introduced that involved the use of a hydraulic press rather than firing. The ‘hydraulic’ tile soon grew in popularity, fortuitously coinciding with the rise of Catalan Modernisme, which favoured bold, decorative patterns.

These tiles have found a new 21st-century life in many recent renovations; they’ve been inset as 'rugs', laid in stripes, used to demarcate seating areas, or simply left in their original position to tell the story of the apartment’s former life.

The biggest diamond in the rough?

“It has to be Casa Roc,” asserts García. “It was in a deplorable state, worsened by the unfortunate previous tenant, who suffered from Diogenes Syndrome and filled the place with rubbish. I really didn’t see the potential to create a decent living space when we first visited the flat; it felt more like a cave.”

But as layer after layer was stripped back, potential started to appear. “It’s like a grand mechanism whereby opening up channels and ducts you allow light and air to flow and breathe new life into the space,” summarises Cortés poetically.

14-18. Report.indd 4

>>

Revealing the hidden beauty in a dilapidated building in the Gothic Quarter: Twin House (top), Casa Roc (middle), Roc Cube (bottom).

8/25/14 2:49:59 PM

GUIRI BUSINESS DRINK NETWORKING 2014 Free Drink & Tapas

17th September

Guiri Business Group is a LinkedIn community of 6000 + members designed to facilitate professional networking through the exchange of information, knowledge, contacts, jobs and opportunities.

Entrance is free for Guiri Business LinkedIn members and an RSVP is required to attend.

For more information and to RSVP please visit www.GuiriBusiness.com

14-18. Report.indd 5

8/25/14 2:50:24 PM

18

FEATURE

nooKs and crannies

On the market With house prices bottoming out, and some areas dropping by 50 percent per square metre, it is undoubtedly a good time to invest in some bricks and mortar.

Choosing to renovate not only makes for a more rentable and sellable asset, but will also normally increase the property value, circumstances permitting. “If the flat is in a terrible state and you do a fantastic renovation, then it is likely that the value increase will absorb the cost of the renovation,” speculates García. “However, if the flat is perfectly liveable in its existing condition, then that might not be the case, particularly as property valuations are currently very conservative.”

But how much will all this cost? “To start with, we try to give an idea of price per square metre, before pricing each item individually.

Obviously, this depends on the desired quality of finishes and comfort levels, but a ballpark figure, which represents a medium to high standard renovation, can be estimated at around €1,000 per square metre,” evaluates García. This is also the figure recommended by the Col·legi d'Arquitectes de Catalunya. “Many of our projects have cost less, but we would say that most projects fall within the region of €600 to €1,000 per square metre.”

Whatever the budget, how it is spent depends largely on the condition of the existing apartment. Structural remedial works, if required, can absorb a very high percentage of the budget, leaving little to spend on fittings and finishes. “In Casa Roc, around 80 percent of the budget was spent on reinforcing beams, removing damp, demolitions, and general structural stabilisation.”

As for our own house hunt, we’ve seen it all—techno-dancing dogs, tasteless décor, false advertising, fast sales and fictitious buyers.

It has been an education and a rich source of anecdotes, but the search continues for our diamond in the rough.

looking for your own renovation project? here are some tips from the experts. looK for…

Location, location, location! Somewhere close to public transport connections in a well-serviced neighbourhood. Good orientation, plenty of natural light and a building that is in a reasonable condition.

The rest doesn’t matter because it can be modified. minimum reQuiremenTs...

None. Obviously, if the existing structure is in good condition, the budget will not be tied up in remedial works. In century-old flats, however, most facilities will need to be replaced in any case, and therefore, buying a cheaper flat in poor condition can leave a larger overall budget for the renovation. find ouT… If there are any communal projects pending, as this can increase costs at the time of purchase. Any other investigations can be conducted via an architectural survey. love Thy neighbour…

In terms of getting the work done, doing it all at once limits disturbance and ensures a better outcome. Although bringing in the builders as a new resident to a building may not be the best way to introduce yourself to the neighbours, bringing them back at a later date could be the nail in the coffin, and it is highly advisable to keep the neighbours onside.

www.nookarchitects.com

properTy prices in barcelona Pre-2008 max price per m2

Price per m2 at the end of 2013

8000,0 € 7000,0 € 6000,0 € 5000,0 € 4000,0 € 3000,0 € 2000,0 € 1000,0 €

14-18. Report.indd 6

G òt ic Pe G rá d ra Se ci a lb ces Fo Sa nt Po rr de ià bl la e G N u o Po uat bl lla Cl e ot N G ou lò -V rie ila s O lím Po pi ca rt -la Sa M Sa ar gr gr in ad ad a a a Fa F a m m Sa ili ili ant a Sa Fo G rt rr er ià Pi va -T en si re -B c s o To na rr n es ov -V a al lv id re ra Po bl e

Ba rc el on et aBo rn -S ta D C .C ia am go at p na er d e lM in l'A a ar rp -B a es -C òs lo t -M Ei xa ar Ei m e sm xa pl e m e Ei Es pl xa e qu D m e re pl rr ta ae Ei Es Le xa qu s m Co er pl rt ra e s -S Es t. qu An er to ra ni -P g.

G ra ci a

-€

8/25/14 2:50:24 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 9

8/25/14 12:58:49 PM

20 culture

MUSIC

By Tori Sparks

0 editor’s pick

ANTI-FOLK HERO(INE) ANI DIFRANCO

September 7th. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

Buffalo, NY native Ani DiFranco is often cited as a musical and entrepreneurial reference for countless independent musicians and songwriters, having been one of the first women to make her mark on the music industry via her DIY business model. DiFranco started her own record label, Righteous Babe Records, before it became cool to do so. She toured around the US, selling the first of her 17 albums out of the trunk of her car.

Her latest release is called What Side Are You On. DiFranco’s lyrics are unabashedly personal and political, honest and direct. Whether solo acoustic or in collaboration with other band members, her live shows are high-energy and built on the foundation of her distinctive manner of playing her guitar.

After nearly a quarter-decade in the music biz, the self-described “little folksinger” Ani DiFranco remains a constantly evolving, highly original and sought-after performer across the globe. The show starts at 8pm and costs €23. More information about the concert can be found at www.doctormusic. com or www.sala-apolo.com.

FORMER BLACK ANGEL IN CONCERT

September 15th. Sidecar. Pl. Reial 7.

Christian Bland is best known as the guitar player and one of the founding members of American band The Black Angels, one of the most successful and well-respected groups in the modern psychedelic rock movement. His latest album, Pig Boat Blues, was recorded over a period of two years, and released in 2011 on Bland’s own label, The Reverb Appreciation Society. The music is hypnotic, distorted, fuzzy, and dark. It’s the perfect soundtrack to a midnight metro ride through the bowels of Barcelona, when you’re tired, wired, and trying to tune out the drunken despedida de soltera party raging on just two metres away. It is a testament to the appeal of Bland’s new project that three years after his first release sans the rest of the Angels, his international touring is still going strong. The band hails from Austin, Texas, a city that is known for its incredibly strong live music scene.

The show starts at 9pm and costs €13 in advance, €16 at the door. For more information, see www.lacastanya.com or www.sidecarfactoryclub.com.

Javier Ruibal September 19th & 20th, 8pm & 10pm.

Jamboree. Pl. Reial 17.

Here’s a chance to see one of Spain’s most acclaimed musicians in concerts. Javier Ruibal seamlessly blends north African sounds with flamenco, jazz, latin American and other musical influences, creating a rich and distinctive personal style that has earned him a big following in Spain.

His rousing vocals and harmonies bring his evocative lyrics alive with melodic passion. The veteran virtuoso guitarist and singer/songwriter was born in Santa Maria in Cadiz and released his first album, Duna, in 1983. Accompanied by his son, Javier Ruibal Jr, on the drums Ruibal will present songs from his latest album, Quédate conmigo. Tickets are €22 on the door or €18 in advance.

20-21. Music.indd 6

8/25/14 12:11:15 PM

culture 21

What’s on stage 5th & 6th. Billie the Vision & the Dancers

The Swedish indie band are treating Barcelona to two concerts. All their music can be downloaded from their website: www.billiethevision.com.

Music Hall. Rambla de Catalunya 2-4.

6th. Richie Kotzen

An evening of rock, blues, jazz, fusion and soul with the US guitarist and singer/songwriter who played with The Winery Dogs.

Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

6th. Graham Parker

British singer/songwriter Parker is known for his high-energy live performances.

Luz de Gas. Muntaner 246.

12th. Wild Beasts

Indie rock from this group from Kendal, UK, who have four albums under their belt.

Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

14th. Woods

This folk-rock band from Brooklyn will be playing tunes from their new album With light and with love.

La (2) de Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.

15th. The Jim Jones Revue and John J Presley

The UK garage rock and roll band team up with enigmatic singer/songwriter Presley.

Bikini. Diagonal 547.

24th. Kid Ink

The tattooed rapper is one of the most visible rappers to emerge from LA in the last few years.

Music Hall. Rambla de Catalunya 2-4.

27th. The Delta Saints

“Bourbon-fueled, Bayou rock” from the Nashvillebased quintet.

Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

Oct 1st. Pharrell Williams

The happy singer/songwriter from Virginia is in town.

Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olímpic 5-7.

20-21. Music.indd 7

8/25/14 12:11:20 PM

22 culture

ART

By Alx PhilLips

0 editor’s pick

Pieter Hugo: Kin

September 19th until December 10th.

Fundació Foto Colectania. Julián Romea 6.

Accomplished South African photojournalist Pieter Hugo was winner of the World Press Photo portrait prize in 2006 with his photos of ‘The Hyena and Other Men’ of Nigeria, and finalist in the 2012 Deutsche Börse prize with his gruelling yet uncomfortably aesthetic images of Accra in Ghana. In the series on show, entitled ‘Kin’, he complicates his vision further by turning the camera on his own land, a place, he has said, that as a white man he always felt both at home and as an intruder. Hugo explores the big social and political themes through the small and the personal: contentious colonial histories, racial diversity and the massive inequalities of modern-day South Africa simmer behind physical and psychological landscapes, intimate portraits and still-life shots.

A Bit of Sculpture

Una Mica d’Escultura September 3rd until October 10th. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

Sculpture, very much the original art form, has struggled to compete with painting in the art status stakes in contemporary times. Now it’s making an impressive comeback 20th-century European-style in the exhibition ‘A Bit of Sculpture’, in which art museum MEAM makes a grand celebration of the medium by putting loads of its own collection on display. From the melodramatic works of late 19th-century sculptor Paul-Albert Bartholomé, through the upfront non-idealised figures of Auguste Rodin; the smooth, pale animal sculptures of François Pompón, to the twisted realism of Alfredo Pina’s portrait busts of iconic literary and musical figures; the dark sculptures of post World War I artists such as Charles Malfray and beyond, into abstraction.

With 300 diverse examples in marble, bronze, plaster cast and clay on display there’s plenty for your eyes to slide around.

Art & Language

Art & Language Uncompleted. September 19th until April 2nd. MACBA. Plaça dels Àngels 1.

It takes just the mention of Conceptual Art to make most people glaze over. This is a shame if not ironic, as the movement—that specifically refers to a group of artists of the 1960s and ‘70s but has become a term applied to almost anything since—aimed to smash the elitism and navel gazing of the art world, defy its preoccupation with paint and aesthetics, and challenge its view of society as a ‘contaminating influence’. This show centres on a group of such rebels—socially savvy Americans and Brits such as Terry Atkinson, David Bainbridge, Charles Harrison and Joseph Kosuth—all of whom advocated equality, viewer engagement and topicality above all, starting the journal Art - Language in 1969 to that effect. This cheap-looking publication was quite an affront, for what, indeed, was the art? Was it the words? Something they described...?

Such fundamental questions abound in this exhibition that shows works from the Philippe Méaille Collection. And, as with all MACBA shows, it’s best to avoid the confusing leaflets and think ‘beyond the images’.

22-23. Art.indd 6

8/25/14 3:20:23 PM

culture 23

ART PICKS Caixaforum Sorolla: El Color de la Mar. A selection of maritime-themed paintings by Valencian-born Joaquin Sorolla.

Until September 14th.

Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

Fundació Joan Miró Roni Horn. Everything was sleeping as though the universe were a mistake. The New York artist questions the world around her, her identity and her relationship with the environment.

Until September 29th.

Parc de Montjuïc.

MNAC Josep Tapiró. Painter of Tangier. One of the first painters from the Iberian peninsular, Tapiró (1836-1913) documents the city’s urban transformation in his painting. Until September 14th.

Palau Nacional. Parc de Montjuïc.

Museu Picasso Paisajes de Barcelona. Twenty-nine small oil paintings of city landscapes. Until September 14th.

Montcada 15-23.

CCCB Metamorphosis. The works of four key figures in the field of animated films: Ladislas Starewitch, Jan Svankmajer and the Quay brothers. Until September 7th.

Montalegre 5.

Galeria Alejandro Sales Lluis C. Pericó. Traverse. Small-format oil paintings of imaginary landscapes. Until September 19th.

Julián Romea 16.

Galeria Senda Abdul Vas. AC/DC 40th anniversary. Vas dedicates this exhibition to heavy metal band AC/DC who celebrate their 40th anniversary this year. September 4th-9th Consell de Cent 337.

MUSIC ART DRINKS FOOD AND YOU Plaza Comercial 10, 08003, Barcelona Tel. 93 667 0036 Open Tue-Sun 12pm-3am www.guzzo.es

22-23. Art.indd 7

8/25/14 3:20:26 PM

24 culture

BEST OF THE REST Festival Asia

0 editor’s pick

September 18th-24th. Various venues. www.festivalasia.es Running at the same time as La Mercè, and just as colourful, is the Casa Asia’s annual Festival Asia. Over 150 people from 13 Asian countries will join in this celebration of Eastern culture, which will take place at eight venues in the city. The highlight of this year’s festival is the Beijing Opera who will open the festival with a performance of Don Quixote, the Wandering Knight at the Espai Francesca Bonnemaison. They will perform again the following night at the Caixaforum. Other concerts include the Pocheon Folk Art Company with traditional Korean dances and songs (22nd), Jazz in Japan with musicians Masahiko Satoh and Akiko Uesugui (23rd), and Pakistani singer and ximta player Arif Lohar (24th). On September 20th the Barcelona Coral Àsia will take to the stage. This choir was formed in 2012 and is made up of 23 different nationalities. The concert will take place in the gardens of the beautiful Sant Pau Modernist Venue, where Casa Asia has its headquarters.

There’s fun for the whole family on September 24th at One Day in Asia, a packed day of activities and performances in Pl. dels Angels, Pl. Joan Coromines and the MACBA auditorium. There will be concerts, martial arts, Asian food stalls, traditional games, and workshops ranging from Japanese manga to Indian basket making.

All the events are free, with the exception of the Beijing Opera performance at the Caixaforum. See the website for more details.

RUnninG

Barça fans can enjoy their own moment of glory in Camp Nou on September 7th, by taking part in the first edition of the Cursa Barça. This 10k race starts and ends at the Camp Nou football ground and is organised by FC Barcelona in collaboration with the Catalan Athletics Federation and the Ajuntament. Everyone who signs up will receive, among other gifts, a commemorative T-shirt designed for the occasion.

Registration closes at midnight on September 3rd if tickets haven’t already sold out. To sign up, visit the Barça website: www.fcbarcelona.es.

Keen runners have two more 10ks to add to their training diary.

On September 14th, Poblenou celebrates its 19th annual 10k, which is part of the neighbourhood’s Festa Major programme.

And, on September 28th, the hugely popular Cursa de la Mercè will fill the city’s streets with athletes of all abilities. Sign up at www.bcn.cat/cursamerce.

Finally, if you’re looking for a fun run that’s more ‘fun’ than ‘run’, then Run The Party at the Forum on October 4th might be your cup of tea. It’s a gentle five kilometres from start to finish with live music along the route to keep your spirits up.

Once you reach the finish line the party begins with music and DJs until the early hours. See www.runtheparty.com for more information.

24-25. Best of the rest.indd 6

8/25/14 12:25:04 PM

culture 25

MACBA SE VIVE

MACBA. Pl. dels Ángels 1.

Enjoy some fresh perspectives on contemporary art at this cycle of events at the MACBA. Throughout the year the museum hosts a diverse programme of Saturday evening performances, including dance, music and experimental art.

September sees Gestos del Camino (20th), an austere and elegant abstract dance piece created and performed by acclaimed dancer and choreographer, Bebeto Cidra. The following week (27th), Slow Groove DJs, Tutu and Lucient, will be mixing it up on the terrace with indie dance music, house, techno and a liberal dose of groove. The events start at 7pm and entry is €5. See www.macba.cat for the rest of the year’s programme.

Under Siege

CCCB. Montalegre 5.

Coinciding with the tricentennial of the siege of Barcelona, the CCCB introduces an installation that takes a profound look at what it means to be under siege, through debates and film screenings. On September 16th, in ‘Working under Siege’, artist Mariam Ghani discusses the difficulties of producing work under siege. She also presents her film The Red Tapes which examines the rise and fall of communism in Afghanistan. On September 25th, in ‘Gaza. The Permanent Siege’, Israeli writer and well known critic of Israeli foreign policy, Ahron Bregman, talks about the people of Gaza, who live in a situation of permanent siege. And, on October 2nd in ‘Drones. Siege at a distance’, Norwegian filmmaker Tonje Hessen Schei presents his documentary, Drone, followed by a debate on the use of drones in warfare, with Hessen Schei and Guardian journalist Chris Woods.

24-25. Best of the rest.indd 7

8/25/14 12:25:09 PM

26-27. Calendar.indd 6

8/25/14 11:46:35 AM

9

TUESDAY

DESDE BERLIN MASTERS OF JAZZ Musical tribute to Lou Reed.

Jazz concert.

8.30pm. JazzSí Club. Requesens 2. 8.30pm. Teatre Romea. Hospital 51. Until Oct 19th.

1714-1914-2014 INMIRADES A celebration of Catalan music.

9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de Opening of photography exhibila Música 4-6. tion by Toni Villaverde.

Pati Llimona. Regomir 3.

8

1Ronald Baker Quartet 2

MONDAY

RIU DIADA CONCERT Traditional music from this young Catalan group.

7pm. Casa Elizalde. València 302.

Pl. Blanquerna.

FLEA MARKET 11am-8pm. Portal Santa Madrona. www.fleamarketbcn.com

10

GAUDÍ NIGHTS Blues courtesy of Steve de Swardt & Diego Zapata.

Torre Bellesguard. Bellesguard 16.

LA DIADA Today is a public holiday in Catalunya as the region commemorates September 11th, 1714.

See page 33 for more information and events in the city.

11

Perotá Chingó The last concert in the

FESTA MAJOR DEL POBLENOU It’s Poblenou’s turn to party. See www.festamajorpoblenou.org for the programme of events.

Until Sept. 21st

12

RONALD BAKER QUARTET Legendary jazz trumpeter.

8pm & 10pm. Jamboree. Pl. Reial 17. Also on Sept. 6th.

HIPNOTIK FESTIVAL Ten hours of hiphop dance and

SWING SESSION Dancing in the foyer with music by the Flat Floot Flogie Boys.

MNAC. Palau Nacional. Montjuïc.

13

demanoenmano Barcelona’s monthly itinerant vintage market.

11am-9pm. Convent de Sant Agustí. Comerç 36.

CURSA DEL POBLENOU This 10k is part of the Festa Major del Poblenou.

The Barber of seville Opening night of Rossini’s opera.

5pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu.

Rambla 51-59. Until Sept. 25th.

14

PIKNIc ELECtronik Your penultimate chance to catch the electronic party on the hill.

1pm-8pm. Jardins Joan Brossa.

Montjuïc.

CCCB Mirador Panoramic views of the city.

CCCB. Montalegre 5. (mirador opens first Sunday of the month)

THE ORIGINAL WAILERS Reggae group led by Al Anderson.

8.30pm. Salamandra 1. Av Carrilet 235. Hospitalet de Llobregat Félix Rossy & Enrique Oliver Rooftop concert at La Pedrera.

Part of ‘Summer nights’ cycle.

La Pedrera. Provença 261-265.

Until Sept. 6th.

MARIA DE LA O Flamenco music and dance in this story about a gypsy girl.

9.30pm. Palau de la Música.

Palau de la Música 4-6.

TAPANTONI Every Wednesday the neighbourhood’s bars and restaurants offer special tapa and drinks menus.

Sant Antoni BIS Festival Independent music festival.

Venues around the city. Until Sept. 6th. www.bisfestival.com

7

SUNDAY

6

SATURDAY

5

FRIDAY

4

THURSDAY

3

WEDNESDAY

What's ON SEPTEMBER 2014

26-27. Calendar.indd 7

8/25/14 11:46:37 AM

30

GAZA. tHE PERMANENt SIEGE Israeli, Ahron Bregman, talks about the situation of the people in Gaza. Part of the ‘Sota Setge’ cycle at the CCCB. See page 25.

CCCB. Montalegre 5.

25

KID INK Paris hilton

tHE DELtA SAINtS Southern rock from Nashville.

Razzmatazz. Almogàvers 122.

MACBA SE vIvE Slow groove on the terrace with DJs Tutu and Lucient.

MACBA. Pl. dels Ángels 1.

Contorn-entorn WorKShoP A dynamic visit to the ContornEntorn sculpture. For children.

11am. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc.

CUrSA De LA MerCÈ The city’s most popular 10k.

See page 24.

28

SWING AL PARC Open swing dance session at the bandstand in Parc de la Ciutadella.

6pm-8.30pm.

vERMUt & SWING With the Lluis Gomez Swing Trio.

12.30pm. MEAM. Barra de Ferro 5.

27

CORREFOC Join the dragons and the devils in this annual frenzy of fire and sparks. La Mercè.

OPEN AIR FEStIvAL Live music, art and activities.

Universitat. Pl. Universitat. Until 21st.

LA MERCÈ Barcelona’s Festa Major begins today.

See page 7 and visit www.merce.bcn.cat/en for full programme of events.

21

CUrSA DeL PoBLenoU This 10k is part of the Festa Major del Poblenou.

See page 24.

Rambla 51-59. Until Sept. 25th.

20

HIPNOtIK FEStIvAL Ten hours of hiphop dance and music.

3pm-1am. CCCB. Montalegre. 5

MNAC. Palau Nacional. Montjuïc.

19

Perotá Chingó The last concert in the Uruguayan’s European Tour.

C.A.T. Pl. d’Anna Frank.

www.festamajorpoblenou.org for the programme of events.

Until Sept. 21st

Follow us on Facebook and Twitter @BCNMetropolitan for regular updates

KID INK The tattooed rapper from LA is in town.

Music Hall. Rbla. Catalunya 2-4

LA MERCé Free entry to museums and galleries and open day at many of the city’s institutions.

Public holiday.

JAZZ IN JAPAN Musicians Masahiko Satoh and Akiko Uesugui. Part of Festival Asia.

See page 24.

DAnieL BAChMAn Virginia-born singer/songwriter.

Nunart. Carrer del Sol 8.

24

riChArD StrAUSS, the YoUng MAeStro 150th anniversary concert.

8pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

BEIJING OPERA Opening night of the Festival Asia.

See page 24.

SARDINES AND RUMBA Enjoy some Catalan Rumba and a traditional sardine dinner.

Every Wednesday in September.

Caseta del Migdia. Montjuïc.

CASA BAtLLÓ Food, drink and live music.

9pm. Pg. de Gràcia 43. Every Wed-Sat in September.

18

Chicago

rates September 11th, 1714.

See page 33 for more information and events in the city.

17

riU DiADA ConCert Traditional music from this young Catalan group.

7pm. Casa Elizalde. València 302.

23

tHE ORIGINAL WAILERS

16

For more information visit our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

tHE DELtA SAINtS

29

CONCERt DE LA MERCÈ The Orchestra de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its traditional Mercè concert.

8pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

Also on Sept. 23rd at 9pm

22

15

51. Until Oct 19th.

1714-1914-2014 INMIRADES A celebration of Catalan music.

9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de Opening of photography exhibila Música 4-6. tion by Toni Villaverde.

Pati Llimona. Regomir 3.

28 FEATURE

A special kind of louse 97-year-old Ernesto Carratalá recounts his memories of the Spanish Civil War. By Jamie Melbourne-Hayward

E

rnesto Carratalá is one of a diminishing number of people who remember what life was like during the Spanish Civil War. The war, a military revolt against Spain’s democratically elected civilian government, began in July 1936 and ended on April 1st, 1939, with victory for Franco’s Falangists, the military-backed fascist party.

At 97 years old, Ernesto shares his story after reading British historian Paul Preston’s book: The Spanish Holocaust: Inquisition and extermination in twentieth-century Spain.

Ernesto Carratalá is known by kids around the neighbourhood as Papa Noel: Santa Claus. His impressive snow-white beard has been a feature around Barcelona’s Gothic quarter for over 20 years. But few would guess at the story this striking old man has to tell.

We sit in Ernesto’s study and he starts reciting a line from The Importance of Being Earnest. We continue talking for a while, following his disjointed trajectory of words, wisdom, and wisecracks: “You will be hard pushed to find an old bugger like me. I tell you, hard pushed all right!” he bellows in Castilian as he rummages through his sprawling library seeking out a tome on Barcelona University. For 20 years he taught in the linguistics department there, and his former students describe him as a “legendary” teacher. Pulling down the right book he points to the section that confirms his reputation: “… in the linguistics department Dr. Ernesto Carratalá left his distinct mark.”

Ernesto Carratalá in his study.

However, he prefers the title piojo, which means louse, and doesn’t just refer to the miserable insects that infested his clothes during his long incarceration. Calling himself a louse underlines his claim to being an insignificant speck in the universe, just another grain of sand that got bloodstained in the long, brutal history of Spain. The nickname also refers to the title of his memoirs: Memorias de un piojo Republicano, (Memories of a Republican nobody). But there sure are some extraordinary nobodies in Spain; in a country where everyone knows there was a ‘Spanish holocaust’ but nobody talks about it.

“One of the achievements of Franco was to instil terror, a real living fear in the Spaniards. We were spooked, completely terrorised. There

28-29. Civil War.indd 2

is no way we would talk about the war,” Ernesto says.

Franco left a lasting impression on the country, ruling with an iron fist until his death in 1975—the war is still a taboo topic in Spain.

Ernesto, however, is not afraid to voice his opinion. Having recently finished Paul Preston’s book, The Spanish Holocaust, he says the details are horrific, but a necessary read for those who want to know what really went on. Preston’s book brings to light the hidden horrors of the Civil War: 200,000 men and women murdered without trial behind the lines, as many as those who fell at the battlefronts. Ernesto knows first-hand there were murders on the government’s Republican side and the Nationalist side; murder painstakingly detailed in Preston’s work. But he says the difference was the lack of restraint with which the Nationalists killed.

“They were assassins, absolute ruthless murderers. They were out to exterminate anyone associated with socialism, communism and Freemasonry,” Ernesto remarks. “The main difference between the Nationalists and Republicans was that the Republican philosophy prohibited persecution and murder, while the Nationalists did the opposite: they commended it, they advocated it, they applauded it.”

Ernesto believes that without an understanding of the resistance to fascism in Spain, you cannot understand modern Europe. “The Republican government wanted to create a more humane system, while the fascists, all they wanted was power and control. And with God on their side, they got it.”

The military uprising in Morocco on 17 July 1936, led by Francisco Franco, threw Spain headfirst into catastrophe. At the age of 17, Ernesto had to live through the autopsy of his slain father, a military officer who defended the Republican government. After that he travelled to the frontlines to serve in the communist youth brigade.

“I was travelling in a truck with other volunteers. An oncoming truck stopped us dead in our tracks, and I got out and committed the blunder of asking: ‘Who is in charge here?’ The reply came: ‘We don’t have a leader.’ That is anarchism.”

The only places where the Republican (a mixture of anarchist, socialis and communist) reprisals matched those of the Nationalists was in Barcelona and Madrid. This ‘red terror’ involved the murder of upperclass stalwarts, conservatives and church figures. The fascist backlash during and following the Civil War is dubbed the ‘white terror’.

After only a few hours on the frontline, Ernesto was wounded in an ambush and fell into fascist hands. He was thrown in prison and condemned to death by firing squad. The first 35 of his company were shot, but for some reason they decided to leave the final five. A few days later they returned to finish the job, but miraculously an officer who had known Ernesto’s father refused to sign off on his second execution.

His final close shave came in 1938 during a large-scale prison break from the San Cristobal penitentiary. Following the break-out, Ernesto persuaded several other prisoners to turn back, insisting they would never make it to France. Hundreds of the escapees were eventually rounded up and executed. Only three made it to the border. When Ernesto was finally released from Barcelona’s Modelo prison in 1943,

8/25/14 11:59:01 AM

FEATURE 29

Spanish Civil War timeline 1936

Barcelona residents flee the city during the Civil War.

he decided to revive some of his previous passions.

Just weeks before the start of the war, Ernesto had met Spanish poet Federico García Lorca, and had been accepted to study at his theatre company in Madrid. The murder of García Lorca by fascist forces in Granada at the beginning of the Civil War is still a tender point for Spaniards. Renowned Spanish philosopher Miguel de Unamuno describes the fascist assassins as “degenerate Andalusians with the passions of syphilitic perverts and frustrated eunuchs.” Ernesto laments, “Poor Federico, it was a political crime of the illiterate against a man of letters.”

Now a free man, Ernesto tried to get his acting career off the ground.

His theatre group staged the first public performance of García Lorca’s last drama La Casa de Bernarda Alba. The show was given under authorisation by the timid Cultural Bureau, and the entire performance had to be delivered sitting down. Nevertheless, it was an underground hit in 1949 in a Barcelona devoid of meaningful theatre. But genuine art during Franco’s era was a dead end, so Ernesto poured his energy into another love: language. One highlight from his exemplary language studies was at the State University of New York in 1976, where he spoke about his close shaves with death and that of García Lorca’s real one. He recited several of Lorca’s poems, including the line: Between people there are spider webs, which over time become wires and, even more, steel bars. When we are separated by death a bloody wound remains in the place of each thread.

Ernesto continued, in his own words, “A bloody wound for every Spaniard. A bloody wound all over Spain, that was the Civil War.” In the twilight of his life, a superb twist of fate gave Ernesto the chance to put his acting skills to work. While he was living in the village of Allariz, in northern Spain, the production crew of La Lengua de las Mariposas (The Butterfly’s Tongue)­—a popular film depicting pre-Civil War Spain—rolled into town. Whilst chatting with a production assistant Ernesto got a shock when the producer José Luis Cuerda arrived and asked him if he was the double for Fernando Fernández Gómez, the film’s main protagonist. Mischievous by nature, he replied that he was and showed the director his obsolete, fascist work permit— obligatory to carry in his day— noting him as a registered actor.

“They said they would think about it. And the next day there was a knock on my door and I was offered a small part—a cameo role,” he laughs. Ernesto played the role of a music teacher and gave such a stirring performance the director exclaimed: “Professor, you sir chose the wrong career!”

28-29. Civil War.indd 3

February: Left-wing coalition Popular Front wins national elections.

March: Fascist Falange party banned.

July: Military uprisings against the Spanish government in Morocco then in parts of mainland Spain. Franco takes command of the army in Morocco.

August: First International Brigade volunteers arrive in Spain.

September: Rebel leaders appoint Franco as commander of the Nationalist forces.

October: The first aid from Russia arrives for the Republicans.

November: Germany and Italy recognise Franco as head of Spain’s government.

1937 February: Nationalists start a major offensive against Madrid.

March: Battle of Guadalajara. Italian ‘volunteers’ defeated. This leads to Franco abandoning any attempt to take Madrid.

April: Guernica is destroyed by aerial bombing.

May: Divisions between Republican groups in Barcelona cause serious weaknesses in the city.

June: The Vatican recognises Franco’s regime.

July: Spanish bishops endorse Franco as legitimate ruler of Spain.

1938 April: Catalunya is cut off from the rest of Republican Spain.

July: Start of the collapse of the Republican army after the Battle of the Ebro.

October: International Brigade withdraws from Spain.

1939 January: Barcelona falls to Franco.

February: Britain and France recognise the legitimacy of Franco’s government.

March: Madrid falls to Franco.

April: Republicans surrender unconditionally to Franco.

CIVIL WAR TOURS British resident, Nick Lloyd, runs a highly-acclaimed Spanish Civil War tour, which visits places in the city that were key to events between 1936 and 1939. The tour gives an overview of the Civil War and covers themes such as anarchism, George Orwell, and the realities of daily life and bombing.

The tour lasts three hours and costs €20.

Contact Nick at nick.iberianature@gmail.com

8/25/14 11:59:03 AM

30 FEATURE

Second time around Look no further than your street corner for some eco-friendly style that’s free and bang on trend.

By Christopher Finnigan.

E

very weekday, for just two hours in the evening, unwanted furniture and household fittings are left out on certain streets in Barcelona: antique desks, mirrors, fold-away chairs, picture frames, wardrobes, scraps of wood—it’s all there, ready to be freely taken. Some have seen a few too many years and should be left where they are, some are in need of a little attention, and some are fully-functional—stylish additions to any apartment. What appears to have been thoughtlessly tossed onto the street behind the portero’s back is, in fact, waiting to be picked up by an Ajuntament-funded van. Unless, of course, someone else gets there first.

Dia de trastos vells—Junk day—has been a feature for tenants trying to furnish a flat on the cheap for many years. Meela Harris, 24, moved to Barcelona a year ago and into an unfurnished flat in the Eixample. “I remember methodically walking the grid system of the Eixample when it was the area’s night for leaving furniture on the pavement. In three weeks, and at the cost of a few tools, sand-paper and cheap paint, I had two new tables, four chairs—which I re-upholstered—and a bunch of frames that now hang on our walls.”

The day is ingeniously organised by the Ajuntament. The set hours and nights—which are always on weekdays—allow residents to dispose of their household trash responsibly, minimising the risk of fly tipping and litter-strewn pavements. Costly removal vans hogging taxi lanes are avoided too. The day also presents the conscientious resident with an eco-friendly way of sustainably furnishing their apartment. Catalan craftsmanship isn’t wasted and another IKEA flatpack is spared.

While some unloved pieces will remain unclaimed after the van finishes its night’s work in Sants, Gràcia, or whichever area it’s sent to, many items are ripe for an amateur restorer. With faded paint tables

30-31. Recycle furniture.indd 2

and brushed wood bookshelves the fashion in many cafes, reclaimed furniture is not only a short route to low-cost furniture, but also consistent with popular design trends. Why buy a well-worn dining table for several hundred euros from an antique shop, when there’s one waiting for a new owner a few streets away?

“It was really difficult to find free furniture in London. You would have to spend hours on the Internet contacting people. You would sometimes get lucky and find someone moving out, but the chances were low. In Barcelona, it’s much more organised,” says Meela.

Business opportunities also abound for those with a little knowhow and time. An increasing amount of the furniture on Loquo or Segundamano has been found and restored, helping consumers who want inexpensive items, and presenting the entrepreneurial with an opportunity to earn some extra income. For those wanting to improve these skills and take their hobby to the next stage, or who are looking to move into business, there are several companies that run furniture restoration workshops. Established in 2009, Millor Que Nou—Better Than New—offers monthly classes on how to repair furniture and use specialist tools. Their website also has lots of information on how to fix things that you find on the road or at flea markets. (see box on opposite page).

With copper at $3.10 a pound, and unemployment at around 24 percent in Barcelona, you won’t be the only person strategically searching the streets. Scrap metal is highly sought after and many of the cabinets and appliances that are thrown out are plundered for their valuable materials.

Collectors need to be careful of what may lurk inside discarded furniture, especially pieces made of wood. Martin Kelly, who moved to

8/25/14 12:23:44 PM

FEATURE 31

Barcelona last year, took home a small mahogany bedside table only to find it had termites. “We found a small mound of sawdust by one of the legs a week or so after adding it to the flat. I did try to treat it, but I didn’t want the termites spreading, so we got rid of it.”

The day has been unofficially named by one fan as ‘Magic Tuesday’.

Laura Hesse, based in Plaça Universitat, had particular luck recently.

“I had been looking for a sofa bed for a year and a half and recently found one but couldn’t get hold of my friends to help me. So I offered people five euros to help me carry it two blocks back to my house. I eventually enlisted a Russian guy who didn’t speak Spanish or English. I didn’t think he quite understood what I wanted, but he helped nonetheless. He wouldn’t accept any money and seemed quite happy to have helped.”

WITH COPPER AT $3.10 A POUND, AND UNEMPLOYMENT AT AROUND 23 PERCENT IN BARCELONA, YOU WON’T BE THE ONLY PERSON STRATEGICALLY SEARCHING THE STREETS.

BETTER THAN NEW The Millor Que Nou campaign was launched by the Ajuntament to spread the message that “New is not better than old” and to encourage recycling and repairing. Run by the Entitat Metropolitana de Medi Ambient (EMA) the campaign is part of the environment department’s activities to reduce waste in the city. Their website provides a wealth of resources, from second-hand shops and fairs to professionals who can fix or transform your new-found treasures. For the handy, they also hold workshops that will have you eyeing the objects left by the bins in a new light. These workshops take place in the mornings and afternoons, and usually last two-and-a-half hours. They can teach a plethora of new skills, from repairing an umbrella or bicycle or fixing an old toaster to making jewellery from old tyres or restoring a chest of drawers.

Sepúlveda 47 Tel. 93 424 2871 www.millorquenou.cat

Not everything is eligible for collection. On its website the council stresses that debris and anything sanitary or associated with the construction of a house is prohibited. However, people interpret this last definition broadly. You won’t find many bricks or tiles but a large wooden door is a common item—a potential kitchen table if you add some cheap metal legs from eBay. What you can get your hands on often depends on how many blocks you can carry what you’ve found. Searching in pairs can be helpful. So, if you’re updating your flat or moving into a new one, take to the streets of your neighbourhood, on the designated night, between 8pm and 10pm, and save yourself a few hundred euros. In Barcelona, on the night of Día de trastos vells, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.

COLLECTION DAYS BY NEIGHBOURHOOD Nou Barris Thursday

Gràcia

Monday

Sant Martí Friday

Sant Martí Tuesday

Sagrada Familia

Sarrià

Friday

Tuesday

Les Corts/Sarrià Wednesday

Eixample Dreta/Born

Gótico Eixample

Tuesday

Thursday

Poblenou Monday

Tuesday

Sants

Thursday

Raval-Gótico Tuesday

Barceloneta Friday

Poble Sec/Montjuïc Friday

30-31. Recycle furniture.indd 3

8/25/14 12:23:45 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 6

8/19/14 1:00:13 PM

CULTURE 33

300 YEARS ON CATALUNYA COMMEMORATES THE TRICENTENNIAL OF THE SIEGE OF BARCELONA

S

eptember 11th, 2014 is a big date in the Catalan diary. This will be 300 years to the day when a besieged Barcelona (and with it an independent Catalunya) fell to the Spanish.

The leading powers in Europe at the time had divided into two groups.

The French and Castilians supported the Spanish Bourbon king, Felipe V, while Austria and its allies wanted to avoid the Spanish empire falling into the hands of the despotic king. This led to the War of the Spanish Succession in which the Catalans allied with the Austrians against Spain, a decision that was to cost them dearly. By the end of the war, all Catalunya’s allies had either switched sides or negotiated with the French and Castilians, withdrawing their troops from Catalunya and effectively leaving Catalunya alone to fight its enemy. For 413 days the 5,000 residents of Barcelona were trapped within the city’s walls, refusing to surrender. On September 11th, 1714, the city fell to the French-Castilian troops in a bloody battle.

Following his victory, Felipe V outlawed the Catalan language and got rid of existing institutions. Catalunya lost its governing bodies—the Generalitat and the Corts—and Barcelona lost its long-standing system of government, the Consell de Cent. Power was now centralised in the hands of the monarchy.

Known as La Diada, September 11th has become, for many, a symbol of Catalan independence. During the last year the city has been commemorating the approach of the tricentennial with Tricentenari BCN, a programme of debates, exhibitions and performances that have invited reflection on the events of the past and their influence on present-day Barcelona. As Catalans ask for the right to hold a referendum on their region’s future in November, September 11th, 2014 will certainly be a historic day.

ON THE DAY

8am: 300 violinists (professionals and music school students) will come together in the Pg. del Born to mark the moment that Barcelona fell into enemy hands. They will play a piece composed by local pianist and composer Albert Guinovart.

12 noon: Demonstrations will be held in front of town and city halls throughout Catalunya in favour of the proposed referendum on Catalunya’s future.

5.14pm (17.14): Following the success of last year’s ‘Via Catalana’—a 480km human chain that stretched up through Catalunya and into France—this year’s Diada will see the human ‘V’. The V, which stands for voluntat, votar and victòria will be formed by thousands of people who will congregate along approximately six kilometres of the Diagonal and Gran Via, converging at Pl. de les Glòries.

7pm: Concerts at open-air stages around the city.

LEARN MORE

300 Onzes de Setembre Museu d’Història de Catalunya. Until September 28th. www.en.mhcat.cat This exhibition examines the historical process that led to the consolidation of September 11th as the National Day of Catalunya, from the day after the defeat until today.

Ruta 1714 The Born Centre Cultural invites you to take a self-guided tour around places in Barcelona that were important during the War of Spanish Succession. Pick up the leaflet with a map of the 40 locations from the Born Centre Cultural or museums around the city or download the leaflet from www.ruta1714.cat.

33. Culture.indd 6

8/25/14 12:22:48 PM

34 TRAVEL

Nectar of the vine

Harvest time is upon us, so where better to enjoy the verema than in THE PRIORAT, one of Spain’s most elite wine regions.

By Carol Moran

W

e might have more vocabulary than the Spanish, but sometimes culture and language are so inextricably entwined that the right word in English just can’t be found.

Verema (or vendimia in Castilian)—meaning grape harvest or wine harvest—is one such example. As a historical wine-producing nation, the Spanish are not left wanting when it comes to vino-based vocabulary.

Verema signifies that the time has come to reap the benefits of the summer heat, when the grapes are at bursting point, filled with hundreds of sunshine hours: it brings a whole new meaning to the harvest festival, and ‘vintage’ just doesn’t cut it.

So, this month we’re suggesting a jaunt to one of our fine local wine regions, Priorat, to catch a glimpse of the verema in action, sample a little of its produce, explore the impressive surroundings, and experience a true escape from the city.

One region, two wines At first glance, the rocky mountains of Priorat can appear rather arid and exposed, with a low population and stretches of somewhat barren land. Looks can be deceiving, however, for within this secluded region, the difficult land has been painstakingly worked since time began. Dry-stone walls support terraced slopes, where steep vineyards wrap around the curvaceous landscape.

As any self-respecting Spanish wine

34-35 Travel.indd 56

fanatic will know, the region of Priorat has two different wine classes or Denominacions d’Origen—DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant.

For the uninitiated, a DO is a mark of quality given by the Spanish wine regulation system to specific approved regions (DOQ is a higher status). Both areas comprise around 1,800 hectares of vineyards, planted between 100m and 700m above sea level.

Winemaking in the region dates back to the 12th century, when the monks of Escaladei started to cultivate vineyards around their Carthusian Monastery. Indeed, the name Priorat is derived from the prior who once ruled over the local villages. The ruins of the Cartoixa d’Escaladei still remain and are well worth a visit, but the monks fled in 1835, when their land was seized by the state. Wine production continued in the area until the late 19th century, when many vineyards were destroyed by the phylloxera pest, causing widespread economic ruin and emigration.

Replanting began immediately after and the DO Priorat was established in 1954, applied to the small area that once belonged to the monastery. On land that has borne grapes for over seven centuries, devoted vintners have since worked hard to gain a deserved spot amidst the elite.

DO Montsant, on the other hand, is relatively new, created in 2001. Its dynamic wines, however, have caused quite a stir, and the region has attracted the attention of the

most respected experts worldwide. Named after the mountains into which the vineyards are carved, the DO almost completely surrounds its neighbour, Priorat, and, since its designation, has seen rapid growth, with over 57 cellars currently operating.

Both DOs are known for their complex, powerful reds, nectar of exceptional grapes cultivated in a dry soil with a high proportion of black slate and quartz, known as llicorella. Low-yield vines and a challenging terrain makes for back-breaking, costly labour and an expensive product, but also some of the most sought after wines in the country.

Time to get down to some tasting? Follow our suggested wine cellar tour (see right), carefully planned by our resident wine expert, Miquel Hudin. And if that whets your appetite for more, visit the 12th-century Castell del Vi in Falset, to find out more about the Priorat wine culture.

Fruits of your labour Roll up your sleeves and join in the verema on the second Saturday of September, when the village of Poboleda celebrates its ‘Old-fashioned Harvest Festival’; a unique, hands-on version of the vineyard tour.

Visitors and locals are taken, literally, stepby-step through the wine-making process, collecting the harvest by hand early in the morning, followed by an open-air breakfast in the village, and culminating in a good old-fashioned grape stomp.

8/25/14 11:40:50 AM

TRAVEL 35 Well-oiled If you’ve had your fill of vino, familiarise your palate with some different flavours.

Priorat’s geological features, together with its extreme temperatures, create ideal olivegrowing conditions. Intense aromas and flavours characterise the award-winning extra virgin olive oil, for which the region has become known. The most common olive variety is arbequina, and a range of olive-growing techniques are employed in the zone. Witness the mills in action and take part in a tasting session of the region’s other luxury liquid, with an oil-focused ramble across the region.

Recommended mills: Molí Gratavinum, Cooperativa de la Serra d’Almos, Cooperativa de la Bisbal de Falset, Molí Miró Cubells, Cooperativa del Masroig and Cooperativa de Cabacés.

A breath of fresh air And when your palate can’t take any more, let the great outdoors provide the sensations. The limestone, slate and granite landscapes also make fine terrain for a whole host of outdoor activities. The limestone crags that surround Siurana offer world-famous rock-climbing with sheer drops and overhangs a-plenty, or catch a bird’s-eye vineyard view, paragliding across the Montsant mountain range. Looking for something slightly less white-knuckle?

Countless hiking trails traverse this trekker’s paradise, leading visitors through the spectacular territory on foot or by bike. Ancient hermitages, natural rock pools, and dozens of stone-built villages are dotted along the fascinating routes through the Llaberia, Prades and Montsant mountains.

Don’t miss... the fairytale village of Siurana. This charming clifftop outcrop was the last Moorish stronghold in Catalunya and, after many years of isolation, maintains an air of yesteryear amidst its cobblestone streets.

A taste for something different The local tourist board has managed to combine wine tasting with all kinds of activities, from trekking and kayaking, to literature and even guided tours with actors. Visit www.turismepriorat.org for more information and ideas.

Diary dates

CELLARS to visit. By Miquel Hudin For those used to the open-door, drop-in policy of many cellars around the world, the Priorat way of doing things is very different. While around half of the cellars are officially open for visits, they require appointments ahead of time. Although it takes more organising, it means that you’re likely to be received by an attentive owner or enolog instead of someone who just clocks in and out. With 200 different cellars between DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant, it can be hard to choose which ones to visit, so here are some of my own favourites.

Cellers de Scala Dei Situated just a kilometre from the monastery, Cellers de Scala Dei is open daily for both drop-in tastings and hourly visits to the cellar. Enolog, Ricard, and tasting room managers, Ferran and Yuri, are passionate about wine and happy to tell you about the cellar’s history. Make sure to try their new series of brilliant single vineyard wines called Garnatxes d’Scala Dei. Vall Llach Catalan folk singer Lluis Llach and his childhood friend, Enric Costa, founded this winery, initially as a social project, in Porrera. Since then, this beautiful cellar has grown to produce some very classy wines. You need to book an appointment ahead of time. Visits include a tour of the cellar and various barrel tastings including their limited, top-of-the-line Mas de la Rosa that is epic, but comes with a hefty price tag at€€92 a bottle.

Sangenís i Vaqué A family-owned winery in Porrera that makes the more classic style of Priorat wines which are easily able to age for up to 20 years. The tastings, which need to be scheduled beforehand, include their older wines which are just now peaking at 15 years old.

Clos Mogador One of the classic wineries, Clos Mogador was started by René Barbier III and his wife, Isabelle Meyer, in the late 1970’s and was a key player in the region’s wine-producing fame. Visits need to be scheduled and include a tour of their gorgeous terraced vineyards in Gratallops and a tasting of all their wines, including the top-end Clos Mogador.

Local festivals that take place during September include: ·Portes obertes in Poboleda: September 6th, 11am ·Festa del Vi i la Verema a l’Antiga 2014, Poboleda (see above): September 13th, 7.30am ·Festa Major de la Mercè 2014, Scala Dei: September 24th, 11am ·Festa Patronal de Sant Miquel 2014, Torroja del Priorat: September 29th, 11am

34-35 Travel.indd 57

Ficaria Vins The village of La Figuera is worth a trip in itself, but to make a day of it, a stop at Ficaria Vins is highly recommended. Jaume Roca and his wife, Montse Castro, started their cellar a decade ago and are making Grenache wines from only the vines within the village, showing how unique this higheraltitude, windswept region is. They speak only Catalan and Spanish, so if you need the tour in English, let them know when making the arrangements.

All of these cellars speak English unless otherwise noted.

For more information about the Priorat, see Miquel’s books in the Vinologue series (www.vinologue.com). Miquel also gives guided wine tours in the above cellars and others in the region (www.hudin.com/tours).

8/25/14 11:40:52 AM

36 RESTAURANT REVIEW

LA PARRA

Enjoy generous portions of old-school fare at this former farmhouse in Hostafrancs. By Tara Stevens.

M

y favourite time of year is when folk in Northern Europe are sliding duvets back on their beds, but here in Barcelona we’re still basking in the rays of an Indian summer. It’s as reliable as rain in Wales in August, but because it’s now September, you stand half a chance of bagging a table on a terrace without sizzling away like a rotisserie chicken. On Saturdays and Sundays up in Hostafrancs, it would ideally be the one at La Parra, an old favourite with its vine-shaded terrace, willing service and the kind of wonderfully old-school Catalan fare that first seduced me into the food writing world when I arrived all those years ago. I love them for not becoming cool, or hipster, or design. They are just who they are, solid and dependable as the old vine that gave the place its name.

La Parra is really an old farmhouse that gives a sense of just how ‘out-of-town’ the barri was back in the day, with worn terracotta tiles on the floor, sturdy wooden tables, old blue and white china stacked up on the shelves by way of interior décor, and a huge, wood-fired grill that occupies most of the kitchen. You pass this to get to the dining room with the heavenly scent of wood smoke following after you.

In the 1890s La Parra was a meeting point for travellers catching a horse and cart down to Valencia. They’d have a snack and stock up on ham, cheese and wine to take with them and, like so many of the old-school places in Barcelona, it evolved quite naturally into a place where you could sit down and have a proper meal. It’s been pretty much the same ever since, give or take the odd luxury like the thick, gingham napkins that feel sturdy and reassuring when you lay them across your lap, underlining the sense that what you are about to eat will be just as solid.

The are just who they are, solid and dependable as the old vine that gave the place its name.

:

36-37 Food & drink.indd 56

8/25/14 12:19:05 PM

RESTAURANT REVIEW 37

As I waited for a friend to arrive I was brought a bowl of earthy, arbequina olives, a small cazuela of patatas bravas (I felt they couldn’t bear to see me sitting there with nothing to sustain me) and a large glass of rosado. Recent press criticising the restaurant industry’s inability to welcome lone female diners should point them in this direction. There are no such problems here. I’d have been happy as a clam passing this afternoon here, nibbling on tasty things and chatting with the French waiter, who married a Catalan girl and has been here for years, about tales of yore. But my friend arrived and the serious business of what to eat and how much of it, took over.

The portions could still be described as ‘farmhouse’.

The salad of an entire head of a lettuce, meaty chunks of tomato and roughly sliced, sweet, rosy-fleshed Figueres onions, accompanied a chuletón (t-bone) the size of my thigh with a couple of potatoes that had been thrown into the embers to bake. Robustly charred and smoky, the same colour pink as my glass of rosado in the middle, this is a proper meaty steak, running with juices and crisped yellow fat that turns carnivorous types to mush, and that made a not un-generous side order of lamb chops (because I won’t deny it, my friends and I are greedy sorts) seem rather puny. Tender as butter and sweet as shoots of spring grass they came with a stout, yellow mortar brimming with fiercely garlicky aioli. The wine kept coming and we kept eating, and sometime around 5.30pm, glowing with the kind of happiness that only comes with a seriously good feed, we finally broke and asked for the bill. Pudding by then was way off the table—you need to be a giant to fit it all in—but I did have a carajillo (espresso) with anisette because it just felt rude not to and I could feel the eyes of the kitchen looking at us sadly. No appetite, these pale Northern European types, they seemed to say. When the bill came, it was €50 for the two of us. And this, my friends, is what I call total and utter bliss. What a place!

:

MORE INFO. Joanot Martorell 3. Hostafrancs.

Tel. 93 332 5134.

Open Tue-Sat 8pm-midnight.

Sat-Sun 1.30pm-4pm.

About €25 for two courses plus wine. ✪✪✪✪✪

✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

36-37 Food & drink.indd 57

8/25/14 12:19:08 PM

38 QUICK BITES

ELS ENCANTS

Take a break from bargain hunting for some surprisingly sophisticated tapas. By Tara Stevens.

O

f all Barcelona’s recent architectural projects the glittering, geometric, bronze-hued, mirrored ceiling of Els Encants flea market by b720 architects, headed by Fermín Vázquez, is hands down my favourite. It dazzles and it’s fun. You can stroll about underneath, look up several stories and wave at yourself waving at yourself. It makes the sky around look particularly blue and the flea market vendors on the ground floor seem particularly bountiful, yet to my great shame I’d avoided it since the renovation, fearing the swanking-up of the place would crush its soul. Not so. The cookware store at the main entrance is fabulous and once you’ve trawled this great coiling snail of a place in search of bargains, you can have lunch on the top floor from several vendors serving really quite decent food.

My plundering took place over a couple of days so I had lunch here twice. First at the fried fish counter where a friend and

I snaffled chunky fingers of chocos (cuttlefish) in the crunchiest crumb—think fish-fingers for grown-ups—and lemony fried boquerones served in a paper cone and with a couple of small beers (Moritz), which set us back about €12. That day it seemed like the most popular stand, but a couple of days later the queues were all over Fogo de la Tierra, whose restaurant Fogons de Forès in Tarrega, is one of the best in the region. Expect unexpectedly sophisticated tapas (this is Els Encants after all) like foie and cherry salad, mustard chicken wings and pork cheeks in wine, but I opted for their ‘special’ house burger with a tumbler of pink cava. It is ground beef sizzled over a plancha with sweet caramelised onions, mustard and cheese then stuffed between two slices of white bread and toasted so everything oozes together in a delectably fabulous mess.

It’s not what I’d call a burger, but it rocks and so does Els Encants. Weekend pottering is looking up.

tastings

Now, if you’re going to have a winery in a small valley that translates as ‘pretty place’, then the cellar had better be something special. I’ve visited an ungodly amount of wine cellars around the world but I’ve never seen one like this. It was designed by the Cata-

38. Quick bites.indd 42

Mercat Encants Fira de Bellcaire.

Castillejos 159.

Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 9am-8pm.

About €5 for a tapa and a drink.

Miquel Hudin is originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue enotourism series of wine books (www.vinologue.com).

Finca Bell-Lloc The valley of Bell-Lloc is a curious place. Located on the other side of the highway from Palamós it’s not the easiest place to find in Baix Empordà, although at some point since my Empordà book explorations in 2012, they did add signs along the road to help visitors. And visit it you should as it’s a combination of an extremely nice 17th-century masia that’s been turned into a rural hotel (you can rent rooms or the whole house) attached to a historic hermitage of the same era. Several years ago the family who owns it planted vineyards and built a modern wine cellar to make their own wines.

MORE INFO.

lan firm RCR and built from repurposed steel panels of a cargo ship that were then driven into the ground.

They form an underground structure that feels akin to a blend of Futurism and the type of wine cellar that an older James Bond would own. With the old buildings, the constant refreshing wash of the sea breezes that waft up the valley, and the old castle ruins that sit just above the property, it all works.

bitter melon notes. Light in the body it has a touch of oxidation to the finish and is overall clean and fresh with a good deal of strength to it although the bitterness in the finish as it opens up might appeal to some more than others.

It also helps that despite the aesthetics, the wines are not some over-oaked, heavily extracted offer as you would expect from a place that seems so keen to be modern. Enologist Xavier Vidal oversees production using natural fermentation to make incredibly honest wines with a definitive sense of place.

Negre 2010 €24 Easily one of their best vintages yet with lovely round dark fruits in the nose along with wild herbs, forest floor, and a touch of sea salt. Very well balanced in the body and dry in to the finish with lingering fruit notes that are incredibly pleasing.

Blanc 2012 €14 Aromatically, it’s a touch floral with citric peel and

8/25/14 12:18:17 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 1

8/25/14 12:50:12 PM

40 FOOD & DRINK

FOOD&DRINK

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking € under 20 | €€ 20-30 | €€€ 30-40 | €€€€ over 40 RV Reservation Advised

NEFW &D IN

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

Bar LA RUMBETA  BARRI GÒTIC La Rumbeta is a magical place located just off Las Ramblas. They offer a live musical performance of Rumba Catalana, including drinks and snacks. Catalan Rumba is the only native born musical style in our city from the twentieth century. Our artists are mostly Barcelona-Catalan gypsies, in a show that has authenticity, uniqueness and an unrivalled cultural quality in the Catalan capital. Come and enjoy the dynamic, interactive and fun show that is ‘La Rumbeta!’ €

W

D

FREE CD

Daily live shows 7.30pm-9.30pm Passatge Escudellers 7 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 649 018 920 | www.larumbeta.com

7SINS BAR AND LOUNGE EIXAMPLE E If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place for a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and elegant decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com €

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

PINT OF STELLA €3

Food & drink Sept 2014.indd 44

CAFÈ MANDACARÚPOBLE SEC The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suited to a coffee, glass of wine or excellent tapas. You can also enjoy a tasty cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere. Every week some of the city’s best musicians provide live music. € Magalhães 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

BAR CELONETA SANGRIA BAR BARCELONETA

Experience a huge variety of sangrias in this cozy place with a cool and chilled vibe where wine, fruit and spices are mixed with creativity and passion. It’s the first and only vegan/vegetarian tapas bar in the district where one can enjoy an exquisite brunch from 12am to 4pm every Saturday and Sunday. The atmosphere is casual and relaxingl, with alternative background music. € Sevilla 70 (near Carrer de Juici) | Metro Barceloneta | Tel. 93 172 2280 www.bar-celoneta.es | Open Every day 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am”

BIERFEST TAVERNSAGRADA FAMILIA This cosy traditional pub has a fantastic range of draft and bottled beers as well as a wide selection of G&T’s. They have large TVs and it’s the perfect place to watch the match with friends. If you study at the UAB join them on Facebook for more info on their regular language intercambio nights. € Av. Gaudí 81 | Metro Guinardó, Sagrada Familia T. 993 480 157 | www.bierfest.es | www.facebook.com/bierfest-barcelona

THE LIME HOUSEBORN The latest creation from the guys at Rubi Bar, The Lime House keeps the red vibe and the €3.50 mojito, but has a lot more seating and delicious hot food plates. There are 70 gins on offer, and over 40 of then made in-house, try the ‘tomato/basil’ gin or, if you’re brave, the ‘roquefort cheese’ gin! No TV, and James Brown and the Black Keys are on the playlist.

Open 7 days a week from 8pm. € Carders 31 I Metro Jaume 1

BELCHICA EIXAMPLE E

FLAHERTY'SBARRI GÒTIC

Barcelona´s Belgian beer experience, serving up to 70 ales, lagers, fruity beers and other specials like gueuzes from the beer country for locals, students and expats. Multilingual staff, regular art exhibitions, live music and hip events complete the perfect Belgian bar experience. Also sports on SKY, Belgian German and Dutch tv.

Free Wi-Fi and outdoor terrace, private parties possible: ask for conditions and offers at the bar. €

Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s has become one of Barcelona’s best known and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food all day from 10am til midnight (including our popular Full Irish Breakfast as well as group menus), live satellite sports on big screens, WiFi, a sunny terrace and a pool room where you can also play darts, not to mention its very spacious premises, Flaherty’s has rightly become known as the pub that has it all! €

Villarroel 60, 08011 Metro Urgell, salida Villarroel Tel. 625 814 001 belchica@gmail.com

Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 6263

8/25/14 2:32:11 PM

FOOD & DRINK 41 ANDÚBARRI GÒTIC

PIM PAM BURGERBORN

Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, buritos, tacos and cocktails. €

At Pim Pam Burger quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are available and are all freshly prepared on the premises. €

Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I M. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am

Bakery NATA LISBOAEIXAMPLE Heir to one of the most delicious confectionary recipes in the world thats spans two centuries, NATA was born to produce and spread the most deliciously sweet tastes from Lisbon to the four corners of the world. Pay them a visit to try their portuguese specialities and their sublime coffee blend. €

EADERS.

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Mallora 277 I natalisboa.com www.facebook.com/NATALisboaESPANA

Argentine

Bagel 9REINAS EIXAMPLE

BE MY BAGEL GRÀCIA

Argentine reastaurant Nueve Reinas has quickly become a favourite for discerning meat-eaters. Renowned for its excellent quality and value 9Reinas is specialised in meats from all over the world. The exquisite Argentina-inspired decoration offers an intimate and welcoming space where every visitor feels like a guest.

The restaurant has two floors and a private room which can host parties of up to nine people. €

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them.

They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. €

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Valencia 267 | Tel. 93 272 4766 www.nuevereinas.com/en

Burger

Ice Cream MANNA GELATS BARRI GÒTIC

BURGER MAMY ILDY EIXAMPLE

Homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico.

Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the best products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with marketbought products therefore boasting exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalized attention.

This burger joint is inspired by the ‘quinto sabor de Mamy Ildy’ where they offer 30 types of 200g burgers including beef, salmon, chicken and vegetarian options, all made to order and served in artisan buns. With good prices and a friendly atmosphere, don´t be surprised if you see a famous actor or a renowned chef inside.

Why not give it a go? Welcome invitation for all Metropolitan readers. €

Floridablanca 148 | Infront of cinema Renoir Floridablanca | Tel. 93 292 7879 www.burgerumami.com

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312

Indian / Tandoori BUTIFARRING BARRI GÒTIC Butifarring is a new super specialised gourmet restaurant which makes sandwiches in a special oven with coal and wood, as the main protagonist of the menu. These sandwiches are made with love and the best craft ingredients.

You can either eat them in our 2 floor premise or take them away. In the heart of Barcelona, taste, flavour and smell will surprise you. €

BEMBÍINDIAN CULINARY

Experience authentic Indian cuisine in modern and sophisticated surroundings. Their dishes are created with passion by their head chef who has more than 10 years of experience in the best restaurants in both India and London. If you’re vegetarian, then you will love their exciting flavours and aromas.

Consell de Cent 377, 08009 I Metro Girona (L4, yellow) I T. 93 502 4952 M. 645 257 701

PLACE YOUR ADVERT HERE CALL 93 451 4486 Call 26 (Plaça Sant Jaume) | Tel. 93 412 0314 www.butifarring.com

Food & drink Sept 2014.indd 45

ADS@BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

8/25/14 2:32:16 PM

42 FOOD & DRINK Indian / Tandoori

Traditional FONDA ESPAÑA BARRI GÒTIC

SURYA EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona, is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich with colour, smell and exotic flavors. They offer a cozy and relaxed place where you feel at home, where you can drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet, work and try out some of their delicious dishes. €

Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room that was originally designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements.

Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that is a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. € € Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat, from 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun, from 1pm-4pm, Closed Sun evening.

Pau Claris 92 | Tel. 93 667 8760 www.suryabarcelona.com

Italian

Mexican TLAXCAL BORN

ACQUA & SALE  POBLENOU

Just a few steps from the new Born Centre Cultural, you will find the best and most authentic mexican restaurant in Barcelona. They offer fresh, homemade guacamole, nachos, enchiladas, tacos, spicy aguachile, ceviche, and deserts, all of which are made with top quality, fresh ingredients. Enjoy a relaxed lunch or dinner in a cosy and modern place, with the best margaritas and micheladas in town. From Monday to Friday they offer a great lunch menu deal for just €11, including a starter, main course, dessert and drink. €

This is an authentic southern-Italian kitchen where you can enjoy traditional homemade dishes. Acqua & Sale only use the best Italian ingredients and the freshest seasonal produce. Enjoy the stylish and inviting ambience inside, or, in the warmer months, opt for their outdoor terrace.

Sundays midday - brunch and live jazz.

(12pm-3pm)

Comerç 27, 08003, Metro Barceloneta, Jaume I Tel. 93 268 4134 info@tlaxcal.com | www.tlaxcal.com Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 8pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 1pmmidnight, kitchen open all day, Closed Tues

Joncar 17, 08005 | Tel. 93 517 0709 acquaesaletrattoria@hotmail.com www.acquaesale.es | Closed Tue

Juice bar

Pizza SANOSANTS

MESSIÉ PIZZAGRÀCIA

Sano Juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps and a tasty lunch menu for €10.45. Our food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality.

Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music.

Home delivery is also available. €

Sano Cuina Buenos Aires specialises in take-away salads, wraps and drinks, as well as healthy lunch menus that change twice a week. Eat better = Feel better. €

Buenos Aires 44 , 08036 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 217 81 15 | Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm

Torrent de l’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight www.messiepizza.es I Metro Fontana / Diagonal

Tapas BARIBAU EIXAMPLE Premium spirits, fresh produce and an innovative menu is why Baribau, a new bar/ restaurant in the heart of the Eixample, has been voted as one of the top 100 in Barcelona.

Located just 5 minutes from Rambla Catalunya, Baribau serves delicious tapas-style dishes and perfectly balanced cocktails, catering for everyone’s taste. €

Aribau131 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 004 2186 | www.baribau.com

Food & drink Sept 2014.indd 46

VITALI PIZZA BARCELONA Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas.

With specials like three large cheese pizzas for €15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! €

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clínic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

8/25/14 2:32:32 PM

HEALTH

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

BUSINESS To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

Nart Dental Clinic - DENTIST This state-of-the-art clinic is located close to La Sagrada Familia and directed by English speaking dentist Dr. Jose Nart, USA trained and Chairman for the Department of Periodontology and Implant Dentistry at (UIC). He obtained his PhD in Dentistry with the highest degree.

Their specialist team uses the latest technology to ensure the best possible results. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader discounts and offers.

DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist.

Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university.

Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care

Padilla 368, 08025 Metro: Alfons X (L4) T. 93 456 7003 jose@nartperiodoncia.com www.nartclinicadental.com

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised, comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens.

Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry. He became a specialist at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, N.Y., USA. Fast and friendly service in an international environment where we speak English.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

Orthoestetic - DENTIST The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients.

Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 43

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5) www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

Abaden Dental Group - DENTIST Advanced Dentistry in Barcelona.

Methodology: A primary distinctive at Abaden is the high value we place on group clinical consultation. During our 28 years of business our dentists across all specialities meet together regularly to collaborate and review patient cases. This group’s clinical case consultation system is a proven method that guarantees accurate patient diagnostics and higher quality service.

Procedures: Implantology (single, multiple or full teeth recovery), aesthetics, orthodontics and general dentistry Languages: English, Russian, French and Portuguese.

Abaden Diagonal - Agustina Saragossa 9-11 (08017) Abaden Sants - Marques de Sentmenat 82 (08029) Abaden Vall d’Hebron - Arenys 89-93 (08035) T. 90 064 9162 (Toll-Free for national calls) Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-7pm www.dentistsbarcelona.com

8/25/14 1:11:25 PM

44

HEALTH

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

ENRIC PINTADO - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Dr. Enric Pintado is a specialist in implant surgery and fixed prosthetics, trained by the Universities of New York, NY and Loma Linda, California.

At Dr. Pintado’s dental surgery, the treatment is personalised especially for you. All-on-4 procedures, flapless surgeries, zygomatic implants for low quantity of bone, without bone grafting and healing time.

In all of these procedures, teeth are placed in the same day.

Just everything, just Pintado!

Dr. Enric Pintado, DDS

Implants & teeth in one day Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

FREE CONSULTATION

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

ICLINIC - DENTIST

The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free.

Perfect teeth in just one day. At IClinic Pifarré i Noguera. No unnecessary damaging of teeth. No killing nerves. No anesthesia and all in one session. Cosmetic dentistry and composite veneers give our clients the lovely smile they always dreamed of. IClinic works only with specialists in cosmetic dentistry who have been trained in the most up to date and cutting edge techniques.

Av. Diagonal 343 2 º piso, puerta 3 ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

AFTER

BEFORE

Muntaner 66, 08011 T. 93 451 8325 Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 4pm-8pm www.iclinicpifarre.com

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

Krishinda Powers Duff

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services.

She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth.

She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula.

Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.

M. 654 393 629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com www.barcelonamidwife.com

NEST - NETWORK OF ENGLISH SPEAKING THERAPISTS The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek.

For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 44

Balmes, 295, 1º 2ª, 08006 T. 93 200 0808 recepciobcn@enricpintado.com www.enricpintado.com

Bsc Hons - MIDWIFE

Jonathan Lane Hooker NEW CITY CENTRE OFFICE

PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life.

An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people.

Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

8/25/14 1:11:29 PM

HEALTH · BUSINESS SERVICES

Pharmacy Serra Mandri CHEMIST

English Doctor

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor General Practice Mental Health MB, MRCGP, MRCPsych.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults.

A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Therapies Adam - THERAPIST Does a headache or migraine interfere with your daily life? Do you suffer from stress and anxiety? Is an old whiplash injury still causing problems? Do you have trouble sleeping? Do you have jaw or eye tension?

Are you looking for the right path and more peace and balance in your life? Do you suffer from depression?

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.terapias-adam.com

Panizo Institute CRANIOSACRAL OSTEOPATHY Osteopathy treats the body, mind and emotions as one. By working with the osteopath you can treat the more commonly known ailments of low back and neck pain, but also treat headaches, migraine, digestive problems and stress relief.

Plaça Dr. Letamendi 3/4, Passeig de Gràcia M. 689 786 519 www.craneosacral-panizo.com

Mac in Barcelona -

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 45

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro Les Corts Mon-Sat M. 662 291 191 www.googolmedicalcentre.com

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on first appointments with this voucher.

Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. English, Spanish and German spoken.

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Born Wellness center - HEALTH Born Wellness Centre, in the heart of El Born, is a beautiful studio, providing restorative relief from the city. Our team of trained practitioners support you in Movement Therapy, Chiropractic and Massage.

Born Wellness provides a highly personalized approach to assist you on your journey to wholeness and health.

M. 653 842 695 Sombrerers 27, 08003 info@bornwellness.com www.bornwellness.com

Centro Quiropráctico Vida - CHIROPRACTOR Daryn J.Wiese is an American trained and board certified chiropractor that directs one of the most well known practices in Barcelona-Vida Centro Quiropractico. The practice known for its quality service with a friendly and professional environment having a very high user-satisfaction rate.

The care is specific, effective, and comfortable as it shows with practice members ranging from 15 days to 96 years of age.

Carrer Diputació 168 Tda. 2, 08011 Metro: Urgell (L1) Bus 14, 20, 37, 59 T. 93 451 5301 quiropracticavida@gmail.com www.quiropracticavida.com

Spain Accounting -

COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience.

Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background.

Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience.

TAX AND ACCOUNTING SERVICES

M. 608 994 599 info@macinbarcelona.com www.macinbarcelona.com

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

8/25/14 1:11:33 PM

46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BUSINESS SERVICES · SCHOOLS

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd -

Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE

CONSULTANCY

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French.

They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Fletcher Consultancy Ltd. now operates in Spain providing tailored training and development services for managers and employees, development and access to UK qualifications for ex-pats, HR services for development of competence based systems. Our UK business services blue chip clients in both public and private sectors. We have special offers for new clients, including free mystery shopping and training needs analysis.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

shirleydirect@aol.com M. +44 799 053 4331 www.fletcherconsultancy.co.uk www.nvqenespana.com

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué -

ARC97SL - OFFICE AND HOME IMPROVEMENTS

BUSINESS LAWYER As a business lawyer and legal consultant, Víctor Sánchez Vaqué offers legal advice and assistance to foreign and local companies and individuals in contracting, licensing, negotiation, investment projects and other legal areas of business in different sectors.

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué

Do you want to build or renovate your office or flat? ARC97 specialise in the design and construction of new works and renovations. They are committed from beginning to end and take care of every detail of each project. They will tailor any project according to your specific needs, style, taste and interests.

They guarantee that all work will be completed on time and within budget.

Media and Marketing Assistant Jo Elizabeth Hardman M. 610 544 614 Pietat 8 baixos, 08002 arc97@arc97.com www.arc97.com

M. 616 233 333 vsanchez@icab.cat

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years.

Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Their professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. They have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. New IPTV is the solution to viewing UK freesat channels, BBC’s, ITV’s, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Follow them on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@ PaulDuval15’.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Corsa - DRIVING SCHOOL

BOOK NOW FOR A FREE DEMO

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

STOP N’ DRIVE DRIVING school

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn everything you need to know about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Ask for the special Metropolitan reader offers

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 44

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 www.corsa.cat/en/courses www.facebook.es/autoescuelacorsa

Stop by their driving school to learn about how you can get your Spanish (European) driving license in English and from home! Don’t let time be your excuse. Stop N’ Drive is the first driving school in Barcelona that instructs you through online videos and offers intensive courses lasting only two weeks, between 7.30pm to 10pm.

STOP N’ DRIVE Driving school courses are low-cost, so don’t hesitate to get in touch with them and start your journey.

Become a driver in Barcelona!

Bejar 67, 08014 (Between plaza España and Sants Estació) www.aestopndrive.com

8/25/14 1:11:36 PM

SCHOOLS · BEAUTY

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47

Heaven - MASSAGE

VISIT OUR ONLINE BUSINESS DIRECTORY

American-trained massage therapist Carrie Lewis has 15 years of experience soothing and releasing both muscular and emotional pain and tension. Her focus is deep-tissue massage, which she combines with reflexology, reiki, and other complementary techniques. She also specialises in pregnancy and postpartum massage. This excellent vocational massage therapist with years of training and experience will make a difference in your personal wellbeing. Chair massage for events and home visits available.

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Moloka’i - STAND-UP PADDLE Molokai’s SUP Centre is the place to go if you’re looking to do stand-up paddle in Barcelona. Their passionate team provides an excellent experience.

Relax and forget your worries in this fun environment where you can keep fit and have fun at the same time.

They have membership plans with special prices and activities, open every day of the year.

Meer 39, M. 654 082 099 www.molokaisupcenter.com HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP

Contessa de Pardo Bazán 24 M. 639 533 523

10% OFF

The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage.

- Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem.

- We also visit offices and events around Barcelona helping stressed executives to relax and re-energise in their working day.

Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Coral - SPANISH TEACHER Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs!

Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

10% DISCOUNT

BCNLP is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses in flexible hours for many languages and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in attaining your goals. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to help you to succeed in your chosen language.

They offer classes in Spanish, Catalan, French, German, Portuguese, Hebrew, Arabic, Russian, Italian, Chinese and English.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

BERLITZ - SCHOOL

Mrs.Q design studio -

At Berlitz language school they have a teacher available for you whether you take face-to-face classes or through their virtual classroom with a huge range of courses available for English, French, German, Russian and Spanish. Their amazing online platform has more than 218 specialties which can be adapted to fit your needs. Their one-day business workshops can also add the finishing touch to your professional language needs. 10% discount with this advert.

Av. Diagonal 382, 08037 Tel. 93 215 0100 barcelona1@berlitz.es www.berlitz.es Mon-Fri 8am-09.30pm

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 45

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

GRAPHIC DESIGN

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO BUSINESS PACKAGES logo design - stationery - advertising

POSTERS & BROCHURES wedding stationery

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations.

She will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use her knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. Contact Mrs.Q for her competitive business packages.

She specialises in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Designed with love!

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

8/25/14 1:11:42 PM

48 DIRECTORY

SHOPPING For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

BATEAU LUNE

KITSCH

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts.

Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

Opened in 1978, Kitsch is Spain´s very first sex shop. The shop offers a wide range of toys from quality brands like LELO, Fun Factory, Iroha, Tenga and WeVibe, as well as condoms, books, lingerie, movies and more. The shop also arranges guided tours and talks by psychologists/ sexologists. They have an extensive online shop too.

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

ECOOLOGY

BCN PAINTING ROUTE

Wear the latest trends made in Barcelona with the best ecological fabrics. Now you can be fashionable and respect the planet, you can feel good and unique with limited edition eco fashion that matches your personality. Forget about dressing like everyone else, you are different. Ecoology is ethical, cool and trendy eco-fashion for your everyday lifetime.

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40 The perfect place to find the perfect painting of Barcelona.

Comte Urgell 28, 08011 · T. 606 53 54 93 · Mon-Fri 11am-7pm www.ecology.es

OJALA!

Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.es · Mon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

24 KILATES

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Carrer de Lledó 17 · T. 93 319 9178 bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es · www.facebook.com/BCNPaintingRoute

PARRUP

Banys Nous 17 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

AMANTIS

Torrent de l’Olla 145 · M: Fontana · T. 93 501 0641 · www.amantis.net

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Situated in the heart of Gracia, amantis is a new erotic haven where you’ll find thousands of reasons to not get out of bed.

Offering a large variety of erotic toys, oils and lubricants, erotic shoes, condoms, books and DVDs, amantis has something for every gender and sexuality. Soon to offer workshops and activities.

ARTSHOP

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDING

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

MP 43-48 Sept 2014.indd 46

Muntaner 17-19 (Eixample) L1/L2 (Universitat) · T. 93 453 2052 info@kitsch.es · www.kitsch.es Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm

www.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with selected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboarding products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock.

You can find: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

8/25/14 1:11:53 PM

DIRECTORY 49

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

WOULD YOU LIKE TO WORK AS A MODEL? We are looking for new models & actors for 2014. We are interested in candidates of all types and ages.

You can drop by our offices from Monday to Friday: 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00 Email your cv to : jma@modelos.net Visit our website: www.modelos.net Dolors Masferrer i Bosch, 20-22, entlo, 08028

MP 49 Sept 2014.indd 53

8/25/14 3:08:17 PM

50 BACK PAGE

SAM MEDNICK & KATRINA LOGIE RADIO HOSTS

Sam I am originally from Toronto Canada. I studied journalism before heading off to Argentina to teach skiing. I love skiing, I’m a ski instructor and I’d never been to South America—I figured our summer, their winter, so why not. That’s where I first learned Spanish.

Radio really started for me in Vancouver with childhood hero, radio producer Jessie Dylan. He had a show called The Good Life Show, all about healthy living, just so off-the-cuff and politically incorrect.

When I got back from Argentina, I tracked him down and basically told him he had to give me a job. He did.

I fell in love with the Spanish language whilst living in Argentina and knew I’d have to come to Europe. I eventually took the plunge in 2007.

After getting here I landed some very random jobs. One was commenting on football games and I’ve never even played: I worked at a company where I had to go to the game and give a play-by-play. I work now as a life and executive coach (www.blueprintcoaching.ca).

One of my favourite bars would have to be Ginger. It holds a special place for me because it was the first bar I was taken to here and it took me a couple of months to find it again. Also La Rambla at 7am— it’s so surreal, people are running on it, it’s quiet. I also love anywhere near the water, a good chiringuito with a glass of wine.

When I came here, I’d moved around a lot and I had it in my head that if I liked it I would stay. Very early on I made a conscious decision not to call Toronto home, but it takes expats a long time to exit that limbo space. However, if you can, and are able to think outside the box here, you can be very successful. Other places like Toronto or London are extremely competitive. It’s a different mentality here.

Katrina I was born in Cirencester, Gloucestershire but grew up in London, working mainly in event organisation, project management, start-up companies and management consultancy.

Having lived in London for most of my life, I needed a change, a smaller city. London’s great, but it’s stressful. I’d always liked Spain and spent a lot of time visiting my grandmother—a colourful artist living in Altea, southern Spain. Menorca was also our holiday hotspot, so I guess there’s always been that connection.

A group of us started the shows after being approached by the owner of the radio station Barcelona Kanal in December last year. The English sections are Monday to Friday, 9am-10am. We host a variety of shows from politics to business and also focus on local organisations that do charity work, like Ronald McDonald’s work for terminally ill children.

Our show comprises two segments, one is focused on small business and start-ups and the other, lifestyle, health and wellness. The audience is a mixture of Catalans that want to listen in English and expats who want to learn about other people doing business in Barcelona. This can be a great city if you have a little entrepreneurial spirit. We also talk about local events going on around the city.

My favourite thing about living here is that it’s a small enough to move around in, yet retains a great synergy with its international and Catalan cultures. Also the outdoor lifestyle, meeting people from different backgrounds, and being able to walk everywhere. Oh, and don’t forget the food and wine.

We are always on the lookout for sponsorship or businesses coming on the show who might want to reach an English-speaking audience.

Even Spanish companies looking to drive their company outside of Spain.

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

You can catch Sam and Katrina from 9am-10am, every Friday at 106.9 fm.

Alternatively, you can hear them at www.radiokanalbarcelona.com

50. Backpage.indd 90

8/25/14 12:28:55 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 3

8/25/14 12:50:42 PM

main pages Sept 2014.indd 4

8/25/14 2:14:48 PM