Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 163 by Barcelona Metropolitan

AUGUST 2010 | Nยบ 163 | Free

BODY TALK

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Contents August 2010 THE REPORT 14 Bodies

Features 13 Interview Josep Mª Oliver 18 City focus Surviving August 22 Dispatches Chiringuitos 26 Street life Hidden Squares 36 Food and drink Reviews and more

Regulars 6 You the reader 7 City snapshot 8 What’s on the web 11 Columns 29 On 58 Back page

DIRECTORIES 40 Food & Drink 43 Marketplace

18. SURVIVING AUGUST

From the Editor: If you’re reading this edition of Barcelona Metropolitan the chances are you are currently one of the city’s (few) residents who decided to stay with the tourists and battle it out for the too-few shady spots. But as Hannah Pennell points out in her article, ‘Surviving August’, Barcelona’s transformation into a semi-ghost town has good points and bad. In our cover report, Tom Worden talks bodies. To mark the month when they’re most on show, he spoke to four locals for whom bodies have led to interesting jobs or hobbies. Plus despite rumours to the contrary there is still enough to keep you busy this month—Check out our ON section, where we welcome the CCCB’s Gandules film festival, with its stand-out programme of cult classics, or why not just hit a beach bar. Not sure which one to go to? Let Natasha Young help make up your mind in her handy guide. Enjoy! Katy MacGregor

30 MARÍA PAGÉS Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Acting Senior Editor Katy MacGregor Assistant Editor Natasha Young Art Director David Robinson Graphic Designer Aisling Callinan Financial Manager Cecilia Ölmedal Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Hazel Walker, Alex Bonetto, Richard Cardwell, Sales Assistants Alexandra Longstaff, Malini Sampat, Pascale Davies Editorial Assistants Rebecca Eyres, Cormac Macgabhan, Christina Mardirosian Financial Assistant Anna Fletcher Morris Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Will Dunn, Christina Quaine, Roger de Flower, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton, Tracy Gilbert, Sara Blaylock, Nadia El-Yousseph, Hannah Pennell Photographers Lucy Brzoska, Patricia Esteve, Tracy Gilbert, Suzannah Larke, Adriana Trif, Ranald Ward, Lee Woolcock Illustrators, Ben Rowdon, Kat Cameron Editorial Office Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Sales ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General enquiries info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer Litografia Rosés Depósito Legal B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest

distribution point www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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06 YOU THE READER

Metropolitan events Special activities coming up

www.meetup.com/Barcelona-Metropolitan-Readers: join up to find out about all our events.

Networking event at Margarita Blue Join us on August 3rd, from 7.30pm, at classic Barcelona bar Margarita Blue (Josep Anselm Clavé 6) for an evening of networking and live music. This is your chance to meet new contacts, other foreign residents and natives, as well as the Metropolitan team. Entertainment will be provided by Laia Porta and Friends who’ll take the stage at 9pm to play Cuban jazz. Margarita Blue not only serves a fine range of drinks and cocktails, but also has a great selection of food. For more information, email readers@barcelona-metropolitan.com or become a fan of Barcelona Metropolitan on facebook: www.facebook.com (Barcelona Metropolitan Readers). Arrive before 9pm to receive a free glass of cava or a Margarita Blue chupito. You can also receive discounted drinks if you book a table for dinner.

Become a Facebook fan of ‘Barcelona Metropolitan’. Our page on Facebook features information about what’s going on in Barcelona, and offers users the chance to share ideas, tips and advice about being a foreign resident here.

Do Catalunya and Spain have a free press? In September, Barcelona Metropolitan and the Association of Englishspeaking Residents in Catalunya are holding a discussion about whether or not Catalunya and Spain enjoy a free press. Participants include: Justin Webster, a documentary film-maker whose work has aired internationally, including with TV3 and the BBC. Graham Keeley, the Barcelonabased correspondent for The Times. Salvador Sala, a TV3 reporter and former correspondent in Washington and Xavier Mas de Xaxas, reporter for La Vanguardia and former Washington correspondent. The evening will be moderated by Richard Schweid, founding editor of Barcelona Metropolitan. Join us at Sala de Actos of the Col.legi de Periodistes, Rambla de Catalunya 10 on September 14th, at 7pm. Space is limited so please arrive promptly. You can also follow us on Twitter— ‘bcnmetropolitan’ posts regular tweets about what’s happening in the city and we’d like to hear about Barcelona from you too.

Have your say Penny for your thoughts What do you think of Metropolitan? We would love to hear your thoughts. Our new readers’ survey is now on our website making it easy for you to tell us what you would like to see more of, both in the magazine and on our website. If you have five minutes to spare please share with us your ideas and thoughts. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Focus groups Metropolitan regularly organises focus groups about different aspects of the magazine and our website so that we can learn more about what readers and users want. If you would be willing to participate in such a group, it would involve spending a couple of hours with us. Refreshments will be provided. To take part in one of our focus groups, please send an e-mail to readers@barcelona-metropolitan.com, saying how long you’ve lived in Barcelona, your country of origin and your age.

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THE BEST OF BARCELONA DELIVERED TO YOU Sign up for your free newsletter Find out what’s coming up in Barcelona with our e-newsletter. Go to the homepage of our website and sign up for your weekly mail.

22/7/10 16:06:33

YOU THE READER 07

CITY SNAPSHOT

LOUISA, 31 ITALIAN “I’M A MASSEUSE SO MORE MASSAGES.”

LEONARDO, 45 URUGUAYAN “I’M TAKING A VACATION TO THE ISLANDS.”

MARTA, 27 ASTURIAN “I’LL TRY AND FIND A JOB IN CHEMISTRY SINCE I HAVE A DEGREE IN IT.”

PETER, 22, IRISH “IT IS MY BIRTHDAY SO I’LL PROBABLY HAVE A PARTY.”

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The August exodus has begun. Many people have already run for the cool of the hills or the breezy coast. But for those still in Barcelona, what plans do they have?

XAVIER, 17 CATALAN “I WILL CONTINUE TO WORK AT THE RESTAURANT.”

CRISTIANO, 27 CATALAN “I WILL BE SPENDING MOST OF THE TIME AT THE BEACH.”

DANIELA, 27 ITALIAN “I WILL GO BACK TO ITALY FOR A HOLIDAY.”

EMMA, 22 ENGLISH “I WILL BE WORKING AS AN INTERN AT SOTHEBY’S.”

ALFONSO, 69 CATALAN “I PLAN TO VISIT FAMILY IN MADRID.”

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08 ON THE WEB

Let’s talk about sex

Most read What people have been looking at on our website during the last month: 1. ‘Interview: Kiely Sweatt’. Nicola Thornton’s interview with the poet and manager of the Poetry Brothel proved popular 2. The annual Sala Montjuïc cinema festival remained a big draw this month 3. It’s clear you are fans of Tara Stevens as her ‘Best Paella on the Beach’ article was third most popular during July 4. ‘Beaches-a-plenty’. It’s another hot summer and our article on nearby beaches remained at the number four position 5. ‘Top 10 essentials to finding work’ It isn’t

Exclusively on the web this month, Richard Schweid talks to long-time Barcelona residents Chris Ryan, a research psychologist from the US, and psychiatrist Cacilda Jethá

all eating and sunbathing, some of you were looking for tips on employment

from Mozambique about their recently published book, Sex at Dawn: The Prehistoric

6. The debate over the ’Best Burger’ blog

Origins of Modern Sexuality. The book challenges the accepted notion that human be-

entry remains as active as ever

ings should live in a monogamous society, pointing to previously overlooked historical

7. ‘What’s for lunch: Libentia’ this restau-

and anthropological evidence that this hasn’t always been the case. Sex at Dawn is to be published in Spain under the Global Rhythm imprint (www.globalrhythmpress.

rant review is of interest to many of you

com) Richard talks to Chris Ryan about the ideas behind the book and their life here in

8. ‘Parks vs. Beaches’ Our writers argue

Barcelona. For more information go to: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/sex

over where the best place to enjoy the summer weather is 9. ‘Cinema a la fresca’ It happens every

Any questions? This month, our new Ask the expert feature is with Sylvia Pascaline from Talent Search People. She is the key account manager from their native speakers division, which is currently the leader within multilingual recruitment in Barcelona. Talent Search is a Barcelona and Madrid-based company who specialise in commercial, native speakers, finance, IT and e-commerce profiles. So if you have any questions about looking for work, finding a job or anything about employment in Spain then email your questions to: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com. Sylvia Pascaline is be available to answer your questions for the month of August.

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year but the outdoor cinema season is always popular with readers 10. ‘Take-out—the best food delivery services’ (food and drink blog)

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ON THE WEB 09

The Informer City... Stalls selling animals and birds on La Rambla are to be converted after a long, seven-year debate over their future. The stalls, some of which have been in business for 150 years have been ruled unethical under a new law passed in 2003 regarding the sale of live animals. Jordi William Carnes, the deputy mayor, pointed to the flagship stall, already converted into a pastelería and stressed that the sites will not be allowed to sell tourist souvenirs due to the influx of similar shops already in the area. The price of the conversions are to be met by both the stallholder and the Ayuntamiento, with both paying half each. Most of the stalls will finish their renovations over the summer with all of them hoping to be converted by October. Lourdes Molina, owner of the newly-opened pastelería said, “I really wanted to change;” despite her family having sold birds, turtles, squirrels, chinchillas and fish on La Rambla for decades. Education... Four in ten students in secondary education are using digital books in place of traditional textbooks. The increase in use of small portable computers in Catalan schools is set to continue with around 100,000 of the 271,000 enrolled pupils thought to be using digital books (netbooks) by the beginning of the next academic year (September, 2010). Figures show that students have to pay between €250 to €300 per year for textbooks, whilst the cost of digital books costs much less, in most cases not more than €60 for the licenses. In fact, some digital books are set to become free with publishing companies introducing packages of texts on various subjects. Tourism... The president of the Hotel Guild, Jordi Clos, has protested over a proposed €1 tourist tax. He was quoted as saying, “What Harvard, or Oxford [graduate] thought that €1 would have no impact?, To gain €1 you threaten to lose €500 because tourists will go elsewhere.” He went on to brand the idea as reckless. Clos’s rejection of the proposed tax is based on two factors, the “unfairness” that the fee will only be applied to tourists who stay in Barcelona and not other Spanish cities, and that it will only be applicable to tourists who stay in hotels. He argued, “I myself will advertise in my Madrid hotels the fact that ‘We do not charge tax here.’” The president pointed out that he would be against the rate even if it was introduced across the country but insisted that, if it was to be put in place something had be done by the Ayuntamiento about the unregulated nature of the legislation. A spokesman for the Ministerio de Industria, which encompasses the tourist industry said that he had not seen a proposal to introduce the tax throughout the country. Sport... Thousands of football fans took to the streets to celebrate Spain’s World Cup victory against the Netherlands on Sunday 11th July. According to the Guardia Urbana, around 75,000 fans watched Spain beat Holland on the large screens put up on avenida María Cristina. Crowds of jubliant fans were seen dancing in the Fuente Mágica de Montjuïc after the match. The largest concentration of fans was at Plaça d’Espanya with many of them wearing the Spanish strip despite previous predictions that many would be Catalans boycotting the match. Thousands of fans also gathered in the area around Plaça Catalunya and continued partying into the night. The Mossos d’Esquadra had to stop traffic near Plaça d’España to enable fans to reach the large screens. It was the first time in 90 years that Spain has reached the final of the competition.

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COLUMNS 11

Wild Barcelona

Heading home

Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska

By Will Dunn and Christina Quaine

The pelican brief

o rouse the hefty pelicans into action, the keeper releases shoals of goldfish into the moat of their enclosure. The bulky birds enthusiastically pursue their diminutive prey, scooping them up in their expandable bills, which they cast sideways in the shallow water. Visitors at the zoo watch entranced, but they’re not the only observers.

High above the pelicans, half concealed in the canopy of the majestic plane trees, are scores of untidy nests. Here, in the centre of Barcelona, is the core of Europe’s largest urban heronry: an astonishing number of Grey herons—well over a hundred pairs—nest in the zoo’s trees, together with their relatives, Little and Cattle egrets. In August, the breeding season is winding down, but there are still plenty of opportunists waiting for a chance to snatch some lunch. In their usual hunting grounds by the Llobregat and Besos rivers, these wild birds will flee at the slightest human intrusion. But within the zoo grounds they’ve learnt to relax their habitual wariness, allowing you to watch from

11 columns.indd 24

up close and compare hunting techniques. With the pelicans now absorbed in a postmeal preen, herons prowl the moat, looking for surviving goldfish. Sleek and grey, they rely on stealth and snaking necks to spear their catch. Their long legs are adapted for wading through far deeper waters. Much shorter and more nimble, the Little egrets dart after the fleeing fish with abrupt changes of direction. Outsized yellow feet contrast with fine white plumes, spread into a haze by the breeze - the effect is like wearing wellington boots with a wedding dress. These beautiful feathers, once highly sought after by milliners as hat decorations, nearly brought the egret to extinction. In August breeding finery is no longer needed and the birds are in moult. Feathers float down along with the plane tree leaves, already turning brown in the heat. Little Egret fishing

Grey Heron

Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours in Barcelona and writes for www.iberianature.com

Will Dunn and Christina Quaine are two journalists from London who moved to Barcelona for a year. As their time in the city comes to an end, they talk about the experience of going home

here have been plenty of times over the past year when one of us has exclaimed, “I’ve had enough! We’re going home!” There were the cold, lean months of January and February, when magazine editors hibernate and work is thin on the ground; there were the times when the trainer shop beneath our flat played the same R&B compilation, at brain-mashing volume, for a whole week; or the time when Christina attempted to pay for our mobile internet over the phone, and became trapped in an endless labyrinth of call centre workers and on hold music. But this time we said it together, and we meant it. To be honest, it’s a miracle we’ve made it this far. Even as we began the long drive from London to Barcelona, Christina’s dad pointed out that one of our brake lights wasn’t working. Will gave it a firm slap, it flickered back to life and we were on our way, but it was a sign of the sort of tin-pot operation we were set to become. Despite having worked on magazines for years, neither of us had ever done any freelance writing before. We arrived with a Spanish dictionary and a handful of savings, which we promptly spent on eating out every night. We didn’t even have travel insurance. Looking back, we should probably have lasted about three weeks. Somehow, though, we’ve managed to stay afloat, and have settled into a wonderful life here. So why are we leaving? It’s partly the fault of one group of people—not the tourists, or the muggers—but our friends, who combine the worst aspects of both (in the nicest possible way). Since our second week in town they’ve been calling us and saying how great it would be to catch up, in person, and do we know anywhere good to stay? Like our spare room, for instance? The problem with guests is that they’re on holiday, which means you’re on holiday too. They’re cutting loose after months cooped up in an office and you have to try to fit some work in between drinks, dinner, drinks, day-trips and drinks. All of which is enormous fun, but it can leave you broke, hungover and tired of playing the tour guide. The real reason, though, is that we were only ever going to stay for one year, a year of mucking about before we settle down. Perhaps we’ll move somewhere cold, boring and difficult to get to. At least then we’ll have the place to ourselves.

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20/7/10 15:39:19

INTERVIEW 13

Josep Mª.Oliver

Private investigator, Catalan

My grandfather was one of the first private detectives in Spain. He started the business in the 1920s. We are based in the centre of Barcelona but we cover the whole of Catalunya, the whole of Spain, and we have delegate offices in Miami and Argentina. I started helping my grandfather out with investigations when I was very young, about 15 or 16 years old. His philosophy was “If you don’t ask, you don’t know” and he taught me the art of non-verbal communication which is very important in this line of work. You have to develop your instincts. When someone shows me a photo of someone they want followed or a missing person, before deciding anything I study that person’s body language and habits. If they are drinking whisky, I will notice how much whisky they drink, and I will ask myself why they are drinking whisky and not rum, for example. It is a very human profession. If you don’t understand people, you won’t understand anything. Where there is a murder victim, they will almost always have had some relationship with the killer. On the other hand, we have serial killers who kill just to kill, so in those instances, you have to discover the signature that the killer has left, and then interpret what this person is trying to tell us. The police work step-by-step. The job of a private investigator is to obtain all types of information and analyse it to get the bigger picture. We have a computer program that allows us to analyse people’s habits and movements and any other observations we make. It is very psychological. One of the most curious cases I had was when a woman asked us to follow her husband. On the first day, he did some very strange things like drive around the block twice and I was thinking “Hmmm.” Finally, he drove up by the side of us and asked us outright what we were doing. It turned out his wife had put our business card in the same place as the ones for the gardener, the electrician etc., so he was onto us before we had a chance to get onto him. We get around 12-15 new cases a week. They are usually about thefts, missing persons, or finding out where a spouse’s money is being spent. We get a lot of enquiries before Sant Jordi from women who want to know how many presents their husbands are buying, for example. We don’t hang around in bars asking questions like we used to. The Internet has really changed the way we work. Nowadays, we find out most things through social networks on the web, not on the street. Catalunya had the first professional college for private investgators in Europe. You have to study for three years; the first year is about law, the second year, criminology and the third year is when you undertake practical investigations. Once you have the diploma, you apply to the police for a license. For a long time, novels and films about detectives were very separate from the truth. There are some situations now, however, where authors have consulted with private detectives and where detectives have used techniques they’ve discovered in books. The Stieg Larsson trilogy has a lot of parallels with real life and is more interesting because it is set in the now. The Mentalist [a popular TV programme] is my favourite fictional private detective. He uses a lot of intuition and what we call psychological autopsy. He only has to look at people to know if they are lying or not. He uses his imagination and knows a lot. I don’t eat breakfast, but my first café con leche is the most important moment of the day. We have only one case pending. We are trying to find two children who mysteriously disappeared from a hospital. The mother has 14 children and cannot work due to injury so we won’t charge anything for this one. Our work isn’t all about the money. It is very gratifying when we solve any case, no matter how large or small. My favourite haunts are Dry Martini on Carrer Aribau and Boadas Cocktail Bar off the Ramblas. I am also a big fan of CaixaForum and the Liceu. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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23/7/10 12:59:09

INTERVIEW 13

Josep Mª.Oliver

Private investigator, Catalan

My grandfather was one of the first private detectives in Spain. He started the business in the 1920s. We are based in the centre of Barcelona but we cover the whole of Catalunya, the whole of Spain, and we have delegate offices in Miami and Argentina. I started helping my grandfather out with investigations when I was very young, about 15 or 16 years old. His philosophy was “If you don’t ask, you don’t know” and he taught me the art of non-verbal communication which is very important in this line of work. You have to develop your instincts. When someone shows me a photo of someone they want followed or a missing person, before deciding anything I study that person’s body language and habits. If they are drinking whisky, I will notice how many whisky they drink, and I will ask myself why they are drinking whisky and not rum, for example. It is a very human profession. If you don’t understand people, you won’t understand anything. Where there is a murder victim, they will almost always have had some relationship with the killer. On the other hand, we have serial killers who kill just to kill, so in those instances, you have to discover the signature that the killer has left, and then interpret what this person is trying to tell us. The police work step-by-step. The job of a private investigator is to obtain all types of information and analyse it to get the bigger picture. We have a computer program that allows us to analyse people’s habits and movements and any other observations we make. It is very psychological. One of the most curious cases I had was when a woman asked us to follow her husband. On the first day, he did some very strange things like drive around the block twice and I was thinking “Hmmm.” Finally, he drove up by the side of us and asked us outright what we were doing. It turned out his wife had put our business card in the same place as the ones for the gardener, the electrician etc., so he was onto us before we had a chance to get onto him. We get around 12-15 new cases a week. They are usually about thefts, missing persons, or finding out where a spouse’s money is being spent. We get a lot of enquiries before Sant Jordi from women who want to know how many presents their husbands are buying, for example. We don’t hang around in bars asking questions like we used to. The Internet has really changed the way we work. Nowadays, we find out most things through social networks on the web, not on the street. Catalunya had the first professional college for private investgators in Europe. You have to study for three years; the first year is about law, the second year, criminology and the third year is when you undertake practical investigations. Once you have the diploma, you apply to the police for a license. For a long time, novels and films about detectives were very separate from the truth. There are some situations now, however, where authors have consulted with private detectives and where detectives have used techniques they’ve discovered in books. The Stieg Larsson trilogy has a lot of parallels with real life and is more interesting because it is set in the now. The Mentalist [a popular TV programme] is my favourite fictional private detective. He uses a lot of intuition and what we call psychological autopsy. He only has to look at people to know if they are lying or not. He uses his imagination and knows a lot. I don’t eat breakfast, but my first café con leche is the most important moment of the day. We have only one case pending. We are trying to find two children who mysteriously disappeared from a hospital. The mother has 14 children and cannot work due to injury so we won’t charge anything for this one. Our work isn’t all about the money. It is very gratifying when we solve any case, no matter how large or small. My favourite haunts are Dry Martini on Carrer Aribau and Boadas Cocktail Bar off the Ramblas. I am also a big fan of CaixaForum and the Liceu. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

13. interview.indd 24

22/7/10 15:21:17

14 REPORT

BODIES August’s heat guarantees the human body is on show in all its natural glory. But for some people the body has led them to interesting hobbies and jobs. By Tom Worden. Photos by Tracy Gilbert.

odies—we all have one—and in the month of August they’re on show everywhere you look. From the sculpted torsos on the beach at Mar Bella, to the controversially under-dressed tourists wandering the narrow streets of El Barri Gòtic, you just can’t get away from them in the summer. Tall or short, young or old, fat or skinny—the human form comes in all shapes and sizes. To mark the month when our physiques are at their most on show, Metropolitan spoke to four locals whose relationship with the body has led to fascinating jobs and hobbies.

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REPORT 15

THE BODY DOUBLE

THE BODYBUILDER

hen Claudia Altès Lucas was 13, looking in the mirror made her unhappy. She thought she had a body that was too scrawny but rather than accept a physique that left her lacking in confidence, she joined her local gym and started lifting weights. Two years later and Claudia is already a champion bodybuilder, achieving rapid success in a world traditionally dominated by men. In just two years, the 15-year-old from the Torreforta area of Tarragona, has won gold medals in the under-21s female category in championships in Barcelona and around Catalunya, and was runner up in the Spanish national competition. “I took up bodybuilding when I was 13 because I was unhappy with my size and weight. I was very skinny at 50 kilos.” Taking the matter into her own hands she joined her local gym and started to work out. “I was determined to do something about it, to be bigger and stronger, so I started going to my local gym in Torreforta. Since then Altès Lucas has developed a real passion for the sport. “I love going to the gym and training and in March this year I entered my first competition, the ‘Promising Talents of Catalunya’, and won. I have always looked after my health and I have always been into sport, but I really love bodybuilding”. In the short time that she’s been practicing the sport, the teenager has competed in many competitions but still suffers from nerves before a meet.“Sometimes I get quite nervous before I go out on stage. But as soon as I’m out there I relax and enjoy myself.” In order to compete at competition level, Altès Lucas has a gruelling schedule and normally trains five or six times a week. Her gym work includes lifting weights for 90 minutes and doing another 30 minutes of cardiovascular exercise. She now says her physique has boosted her confidence and happiness as well as her strength. “It’s still a very masculine world, and some of my friends and teachers have discouraged me from training. They want me to give up because they worry I will get too big.” But not to be discouraged from her new love, Altès Lucas said, “I’m going to carry on. I have two other friends who are very encouraging and I’m not the sort of person to quit something I love because other people disapprove.”

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itor Chico’s 1.69 metre frame has won him a job working alongside, arguably the world’s greatest footballer, Lionel Messi. Chico has performed as the Barça striker’s body double in two adverts for sports giant adidas. The 20-year-old from Barcelona stands at exactly the same height as the Argentine ‘FIFA World Player of the Year’, and was picked because of his similar build. “I’m on the books of the model agency Teresa Gimpera and I passed two sets of auditions before landing the Messi job.” They may have a similar build but Chico explains he doesn’t have to look exactly like the football star in everyway. “Facially I look nothing like him but that’s not important because he does all the facial shots himself. I do lots of shots dribbling the ball and taking on other players. When the advert comes out the viewer thinks it’s Messi dribbling but actually it’s me.” Describing the differences between himself and the Argentine player he said, “His legs are more muscular than mine, but apart from that our bodies are similar. My hair looks like his from behind as well.” Chico was lucky enough to met the 23-year-old football star while filming an advert for the adidas F50 Tunit boots at the Estadi Olímpic last Christmas, alongside the French former footballer Zinedine Zidane and his body double. Chico, who studies at INEF (National Institute of Physical Education) in Barcelona and plays a lot of indoor football said, “It took us a whole day to film the advert, from 7am to midnight.” This wasn’t the case for the footballer; his work load was dramatically less than Chico’s as Messi didn’t have to be there for the whole filming, staying only to shoot those important facial shots. Speaking of the experience Chico said, “I’m right-footed, but Messi is left-footed and at first they asked me to dribble with my left foot. But I was pretty bad at that, so in the end I did it with my right foot. It all happens so quickly in the advert the viewer can’t tell. I had to dribble, take some corners, do step-overs and shoot at goal.” Chico has since filmed another advert as Messi’s double for an adidas tracksuit which has not yet been screened. He’s hoping to carry on appearing as the footballer in the future. “I don’t get as much money as Messi but the pay is still pretty good.”

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16 REPORT

THE NATURIST

THE COSMETIC SURGEON

eading cosmetic surgeon Dr Vicente Paloma insists exercise is not the only way to sculpt a person’s body. He has been operating on patients seeking to improve their appearance for more than 20 years. Late spring and early summer sees a rush of enquiries from people looking to improve their body for the beach— in what he calls “Operation Bikini.” Speaking to Metropolitan he said “Most of our consultations come in late spring and early summer when people start thinking about going to the beach.” Dr Paloma, who operates at the Teknon Medical Centre in the city of Barcelona, said the profile of the average client has changed “beyond recognition” in the two decades he has worked in the field. “When I first started cosmetic surgery was available only to a select few, now it is affordable for almost everybody in Spain. Our most popular operations are breast enlargements for women and abdominal surgery for men.” In an additional shift he says, nowadays around 20 percent of the centre’s clients are men—20 years ago that figure was under one percent. “It’s because men are taking more care of how they look and of their general health.” However Dr Paloma warns that surgery is not an alternative to exercise and healthy eating. “Surgery is about physical and mental health. It isn’t a replacement for exercise, rather it complements it. Surgery can improve confidence and encourage a healthy lifestyle, as well as improving on what nature has provided.” He continued, “In my experience it gives people a great deal of self-confidence, and a greater desire to look after themselves, to go to the gym and watch what they eat.” The recent recession means Dr Paloma can no longer take his own holidays during August. “It is now our busiest month, because of the economic crisis lots of people are scheduling operations during their August holidays rather than taking extra time off work.”

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oaquim Plana believes the human body is too often constrained by clothes and he likes to remove them whenever practically possible. The 56-year-old is chairman of the Club Catalán de Naturismo, which has members of all shapes and sizes, aged from three to 82. Plana, who has been practicing nudism for 25 years, says we should not be ashamed of our bodies, and believes shedding our garments in public has great benefits. “Naturism is more than simply taking your clothes off. It is a way of life, of living in harmony with nature. It is about having respect for yourself and for others.” Conceeding that a fundamental part of the movement is being naked, Plana explained, “We enjoy being without the constraints of clothes and it’s not just on the beach, we like to practice nudism by lakes, in the mountains, in the snow, wherever. Whenever clothes are not necessary we like to take them off.” Explaining the appeal Plana added, “It’s about the sensation of freedom you get from not wearing clothes, of feeling the air and water on all parts of your body.” There are around 650 naturists in the club but Plana observed new members can be shy about revealing their naked bodies in public for the first time. His advice is to start off practicing nudism at home. Nudists are protected by the Spanish Constitution and the law does not prevent the practice in any public spaces. The Club is aware of the two or three men who frequent the boulevards along the city beaches in Barcelona but Plana himself does not practice nudism in the city. A father-of-three from Girona, says he does not believe we need to strip off everywhere. “Being nude in a big city is not ideal, because there are so many people and you are constantly bumping into them. We don’t have a problem with people who want to be naked in the city and we wouldn’t want to restrict their freedom to do it. But we don’t believe we have to be nude everywhere.” According to Plana, there is far more to the naturist movement than being naked. He describes the close link between nudism and environmentalism, and says many members are also involved in the ecological movement, vegetarianism or animal rights. “Naturalism is a very broad philosophy, it’s about more than simply taking off your clothes.”

22/7/10 12:23:20

APARTMENTS FOR RENT IN BARCELONA SARRIA

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18 CITY FOCUS

SURVIVING AUGUST By Hannah Pennell. Illustrations by Kat Cameron.

It’s too hot. Here are some ideas to help you get through the next 31 days.

or much of the year, most Barcelona residents would likely agree, this city is a pretty pleasant place to live. But August is different. With the highest average temperatures of the year (in the mid to high 20s and often spiking into the 30s), the city goes through a strange dichotomy in the eighth month. On the one hand, it’s much quieter in the residential areas because so many businesses are closed for annual holidays, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing for those, whether for economic or employment reasons, don’t join the mass exodus as it leaves more tranquil streets and squares. However, it does mean that finding an open newspaper seller or greengrocers can become a long, sweaty and often frustrating expedition. In contrast, head anywhere near the centre, main tourist attractions or beaches and you’ll discover the other side of the coin: crowds filling every available corner of space. Culturally, much of the most interesting summer shows take place in June and July, before petering off early in August; in addition, much of what is on this month tends to be the same year in, year out (Gràcia festes, Mas i Mas and late-night openings at the museums), with a lack of innovative and original events to enjoy.

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CITY FOCUS 19 In the face of all these obstacles, one way to deal with August in Barcelona is to do things differently. Don’t go to all the usual places, don’t do all the same old activities. Try something new or re-discover parts of the city you’ve not been to recently. Go to places you’ve never visited before where you won’t care if the local kiosks and bakeries are closed and you might find somewhere worth re-visiting once the weather ‘improves’. If you live in the Raval, jump on metro Line 3, at Paral·lel or Poble Sec, and head either north-west to Les Corts or north-east to Vallcarca. Gràcia residents could take the number six bus from the Diagonal towards the Rambla de Poblenou (get off at Roc Boronat-Passatge Mas de Roda and you’re two blocks away). For those near Francesc Macià, why not take the tram to such mysterious out-oftown destinations as Sant Feliu de Llobregat and Sant Joan Despi? Another change you can make this year is in your timetable. Even if you’re not a morning person for the other 11 months, August is definitely a time for getting up early, making the most of the cooler mornings, resting in the afternoon, then getting out and about in the evenings when the temperature lowers somewhat. For those who are working this month, and if your company allows for it, going intensivo is definitely the way forward. This summer tradition throughout Spain means that you start working earlier, say at 7.30 or 8am, then do your normal hours without a full lunch break to finish at 3.30 or 4pm, meaning you’ll be free to enjoy the balmier evenings for al fresco merrymaking (more of which below). You’ll need to be up with the lark anyway this month for any kind of ‘official’ business, such as going to the post office, as state institutions cut back their hours with most closing in the early afternoon. Becoming an early bird isn’t always bad news however. At the Icaria cinema, there are discounts on the first showings, (matinales), usually starting around 12 or 12.30pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. You pay €6 instead of €7.50 to see an original version film at the hottest time of the day. Take advantage of its position close to the beach by heading down beforehand for a spot of pre-cinema sunbathing. And in the spirit of trying something different this August, why not skip the Festes de Gràcia? Sounds drastic and of course, if you’re new to Barcelona or haven’t been to Gràcia’s annual street celebrations, (see page 32 for more information), then by all means go and have a look. But for all those that have been more than twice, swap Gràcia for the Barri Gòtic and the Festes de Sant Roc. Celebrated around the saint’s day of August 16th, this festival has been marked for over 400 years, in what was once called the barri de Sant Roc. Activities and traditions, some of which date back to the Festes’ 16th-century origins include: la Cucanya, where intrepid participants have to get across a large turning tree-trunk that has been helpfully greased down beforehand (every day at 7pm, Plaça Nova); glops amb el Porró llarg, a variation on the Catalan imbibing of wine from a long-spouted glass container (porró), but this porró has a spout more than half a metre long; and the singing of sea-shanties (havanares) accompanied by ron cremat (burnt rum). In addition, to mark the fact that Sant Roc is always illustrated with a dog, there is the Sant Gos (sainted dog) festival on August 17th. (Legend has it that his four-legged friend helped the saint when he was unwell and living on the streets, by stealing bread

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>>>

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20 CITY FOCUS for him to eat and that once he was recovered, the two were constantly together). Finally, where August in Barcelona excels is with open-air nighttime entertainment. On the 6th at 10pm, Oscar-winner Slumdog Millionaire will be shown in Carrer Conreria in Barceloneta as part of that neighbourhood’s evening summer programme. It also includes live music (12th and 26th) and circus acts (27th), in the Parc de Barceloneta. Alternatively, go to one of the many hotel rooftop bars open to the public for late-night drinks amongst the city’s beautiful people, accompanied by excellent city views. Amongst those open are Hotel 1898 on La Rambla, Casa Fuster on Gran de Gràcia and Hotel Claris on Pau Claris. For those of a more sporting frame of mind, enjoy this season’s first match at the Camp Nou, with the Trofeu Joan Gamper, now in its 45th edition, which marks the official presentation of the football team for the new campaign. As this year’s event will be the first of the Sandro Rosell era, go along so you can say you where there when it all began.

Some expert advice for surviving August Barcelona offers so much in the summer. It’s not a question of ‘Surviving August’, but living it to the full. And sometimes the best things to do at the height of the summer here are just simple things like taking a stroll in the cool of the evening along the seafront or in any of the city’s historic centres, or having dinner with friends at a restaurant terrace, or a drink overlooking the Mediterranean. I especially recommend a visit to the street ﬁestas of Gràcia or Sants, with their decorations and popular culture. Jordi Hereu – Mayor of Barcelona Escape the suffocating lunchtime heat at the CaixaForum (a particularly good choice this year with the Barceló retrospective) taking in some air-conditioned art and a cool lunch in their café. Ryan Chandler, editor of quarterly literary magazine, Barcelona Ink Go up to Collserola for an evening walk, following the ridge from Vallvidrera to Sant Pere Martir. At this time of year, you can coincide with a colourful ﬂock of beeeaters, leisurely foraging in the setting sun. As night slowly falls and the crickets start up, you might spot a boar family, with scampering boarlets in tow. Lucy Brzoska - from www.Iberianature.com

Away from the city centre, at the Parc del Fòrum, the Bosc Urbá is Barcelona´s new family attraction. This urban adventure park offers a unique climbing experience for children as young as 4 years old with a range of circuits to suit all abilities. Emma Grenham -from www. kidsinbarcelona.com

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22 DISPATCHES

CHIRINGUITOS

We celebrate the beach bar. By Natasha Young.

Mac arena Beach Club Best for bedding down to Balearic beats It’s a bit of a trek, but you can loll about on the beds, eat Asian food and pretend you’re in Ibiza. There’s plenty of towel space on the beach too. Beach: Port Fòrum/Sant Adrià Del Besos. Metro: El Maresme Fòrum. 9am-3am Bambu - Best for menú del dia The last chiringuito before the Fòrum, Bambu offer a €12 menú del dia while Friday is aperitif night, meaning that once you buy a drink, you are free to tuck into the buffet. The free sunloungers are a nice touch. Beach: Llevant. Metro: El Maresme Fòrum. 9am-2am

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Chiringuito de la Mar Bella - Best for letting it all hang out This popular gay cruising spot is slap bang in the middle of the nudist beach. Check out the naked flesh or show off your own bits at the bar. Beach: Mar Bella. Metro: Poblenou. 9am-2am

Vai Moana - Best for cocktail connoisseurs Service with a smile can be hard to find on Barcelona’s beaches but not here. Cheerful staff guide you through their sizeable cocktail menu and there’s good food on offer too. Beach: Bogatell. Metro: Poblenou. 9am-2am

Natura - Best for posing under a palm tree When you’ve done baking yourself to a crisp, Natura’s shady terrace is just the place to kick back. DJs play at the weekends. Beach: Nova Mar Bella. Metro: Selva del Mar. 9am-2am

PRINCESA 23 - Best for an international crowd In an enviable spot in easy-to-get-to Barceloneta, Princesa 23 offers frozen margaritas for €4 a pop. Beach: Sant Miquel. Metro: Barceloneta. 10am-midnight

Relevant - Best for girls who like girls A short trot across the sand from Chiringuito de la Mar Bella lies this lesbian-friendly spot which is chock-a-block on Sundays. Generous salads and sandwiches are on offer for lunch. Beach: Mar Bella. Metro: Poblenou. 9am-2am

Chiringuito del mar Best for cheap cocktails and tunes Right in front of the gym, this gay-friendly joint offers €4 cocktails and good music. Popular with locals. Beach: Barceloneta. Metro: Barceloneta. 10am-midnight

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DISPATCHES 23 Mac Arena Beach Club

Princesa 23

Chiringuito de la Mar Bella

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Chiringuito del Mar

Suzannah Larke

Chiringuito de la Mar Bella

Suzannah Larke

24 DISPATCHES

Mac Arena Beach Club

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23/7/10 13:07:00

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26 STREET LIFE

Carrer de Sant Pere Més Baix ‘Forat de la Vergonya’

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Hidden squares Plaça de Sant Cugat

Mercat Santa Caterina

By Nadia El-Yousseph and Natasha Young

The area of Santa Caterina and Sant Pere is full of surprises

eed to cool down after a long day soaking up the rays on the beach? As you wander home along Via Laietana, take a right into the warren of narrow alleys between Carrer Princesa and the Palau de la Música and you’ll ﬁnd a host of shady terraces, tree-lined pedestrian streets and little squares that are just perfect for kicking back and watching the world go by. Tucked behind the fancy-roofed Mercat Santa Caterina is tiny Plaça Sant Cugat. Lined with bars and restaurants and chock-a-block with tables in the shade, it’s a world away from the edginess of adjoining Carrer Carders. Perched on the corner is the Italian-owned Alsur Café (Carders nº. 17). They serve up freshly-pressed juices, mouth-watering tarts crammed with dulce de leche and caipirinhas (€3.50) that they brag are the cheapest on the block. Across the square is El Atril (Carders nº. 23); a laid-back restaurant with live jazz on Wednesday and Thursday nights. With not one but two terraces, the waiters scurry back and forth with signature cocktails and wine. Apparently the Australian owner is a bit of a connoisseur when it

comes to vino and plans are afoot to open a bodega across the street in a couple of months. With tables on Plaça Sant Cugat and Lego-inspired furniture inside, Pizza Concept (Fonollar nº. 2) offers pizza for €2 a slice, home-made salads and Italian aperitifs. Owner Hugo Percival (who is half-Italian and half-British and must have had one hell of a World Cup) explains the reasoning behind the Lego-like furniture: “If you get angry with your partner, you can take your chair and stick it to someone else’s.” Over at Mama Shake (Fonollar nº. 8), Juan, the Argentinean owner, serves up a mean Expresso Martini and offers a cocktail and tapa combo for €5. Broken hearts whose lovers have positioned their Lego chair elsewhere take note. Turn left back onto Carrer Carders and left again onto Carrer Montanyans and you’ll ﬁnd yourself in a big, open square with benches galore, known locally as the ‘Forat de la Vergonya’ (Hole of Shame). After developers made the hugely unpopular decision of knocking down a series of old buildings a few years ago, the neighbours declared war by sprucing the place up before anyone had a chance to build anything new. A pitch

The Black Horse El Atril

Caliu

Jardi de Xavier Benguerel

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STREET LIFE 27

Plaça Sant Pere La Candela - Plaça Sant Pere

battle ensued and after a long stand-off, the people won. There may be no bars of note here but thanks to the residents’ David and Goliath-like victory, you can now challenge the locals to a game of football, basketball or table-tennis. While you’re there you can admire what must surely be Barcelona’s only resident scarecrow, who diligently guards the tomato plants in the community allotment. Sadly he doesn’t seem to scare away the many pick-pockets in this area, so hang on tight to your valuables. For more food and drink options, cross over Carrer Carders towards Carrer Princesa to Carrer Allada Vermell; a shady pedestrianised street with a bohemian atmosphere. Right beside the children’s playground is Yamane (Allada Vermell nº. 10) a cheap and cheerful sushi restaurant whose Japanese chef can turn his hand to Thai dishes too. Drinkers can quench their thirst next door at Casa Paco or at The Black Horse (nº. 16); an English pub that’s been welcoming homesick Brits, locals and international drinkers for the last 13 years. With not an Estrella Damm in sight, The Black Horse serves up draught bitters, lagers, Guinness and

‘El Forat de la Vergonya’

Hoegaarden and you can wolf down packets of Walkers Crisps while you watch the footie or play darts. Sadly their Morris Dancing troupe is no longer active but the football team is still going and there’s a bi-lingual pub quiz on Sundays. Next door, tall leafy trees shade the terrace of Caliu (nº. 18) while opposite , Brazilian-owned Ice Cream Monkey (nº. 22) serves up ice-cream in exotic flavours like cayá and limbú. Ask for a free sample if you can’t make up your mind. Alternatively, for a real hidden gem, turn right off Via Laietana past La Palau de la Música until you reach Plaça Sant Pere. From the terrace of La Candela (Pl Sant Pere nº. 12) you can gaze over at the church or watch local children squeal with delight as they play in the fountain. Owner Anabel Ruiz and her team turn out set Mediterrarean lunches and Asian-inspired suppers with fideuà and teriyaki duck jostling for position on the menu. All of the places mentioned are open in August although many of them don’t open until 4-5pm in this, the quietest and hottest of months.

Alsur Café

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23/7/10 13:57:29

On GANDULES P. 31

BUSKERS’ FESTIVAL P. 32 PER LABERINTS P. 33 MIQUEL BARCELÓ P. 34 & P. 35

The month of August isn’t normally one to shout about when it comes to cultural events but there is still plenty going on. For instance the CCCB’s Gandules festival or the CaixaForum’s and Arts Santa Monica’s joint, bighitting Miquel Barceló exhibitions. Or if you want to see Barcelona from a new perspective, don’t miss the photographer Eugeni Forcano’s retrospective exhibition, La meva Barcelona at the Archivo Fotográfico de Barcelona.

29 Cover2 copy 1.indd 1

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30 ON

This month

Between 1976 and 1977 Jordi Valls, curator of this exhibition, recorded some of the earliest London punk gigs—a collection that includes acts like The Damned, Subway Sect, The Slits and Buzzcocks. This show combines audio-visuals, punk iconography by Franc Aleu-Urano Films, extracts from the recordings and photographs all in an effort to relive the in-your-face energy of the music and time. The London Punk Tapes Until September 26th Arts Santa Mònica - www.artssantamonica.cat

The Teatre Poliorama is saving something very special to open this new season—acclaimed dancer María Pagés’ Autorretrato is already a worldwide hit. It’s the brainchild of Mikhail Baryshnikov, who asked Pagés to create a personal piece of work through which she could demonstrate her enviable creative talent and dancing skill. Autorretrato August 31st until September 19th Teatre Poliorama - www.teatrepoliorama.com

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Working under the premise that photojournalism is undergoing a renaissance after a reported decline, this comprehensive exhibition attempts to study the new approaches that are breathing new life into the industry. Antifotoperiodisme Until October 10th La Virreina Centre de la Imatge - www.bcn.cat

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M 31 ON 31

Live Limp Bizkit: Sant Jordi Club, September 16th Peter Gabriel: Palau Sant Jordi, September 23rd Goldfrapp: Parc del Fòrum, September 24th Massive Attack: Pavelló Olímpic de Badalona, October 7th Guns N’ Roses: Pavelló Olímpic de Badalona, October 14th A-ha: Sant Jordi Club, October 15th Crystal Castles: Apolo, November 7th Interpol: Sant Jordi Club, November 14th Crystal Castles

Joe Satriani: Apolo, November 17th

who’s on

Arcade Fire: Palau Sant Jordi, November 21st

OUR pick of concerts FOR THE coming months

Shakira: Palau Sant Jordi, November 24th MGMT: Razzmatazz, December 16th

Get lost with gandules

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Little Fugitive

ummer is traditionally a horrible time for film fans. Months away from Oscar season, movie studios churn out sappy rom-coms and family favourites, filling cinemas with armies of amorous teenage couples and knee-high popcorn throwers. Thankfully, Barcelona is far kinder to fans of the big screen. In recent years, outdoor cinemas have been popping up all over the place during the summer months and just as Sala Montjuïc is packing up its deckchairs for another year, CCCBs much-respected Gandules film festival whirrs into action. Gandules is nothing short of a delight for film buffs. With not a Hollywood blockbuster in sight, free entrance and a big screen in the quiet surrounds of CCCB’s terrace, Gandules is sure to have wannabe auteurs stroking their chins with pleasure. This year’s festival, entitled Lost, Lost, Lost, ties in nicely with the CCCB’s gallery exhibition, Per Laberints (see page 34 for more information). All the chosen films depict labyrinths of one sort or another; be they invisible ones that trap people in a specific time or place or imaginary ones from which they are trying to escape. First up, is Barbara Loden’s neglected masterpiece Wanda (August 3rd). A harsh, listless road movie set in the rust-belt of Pennsylvania, this low-budget, cult classic follows the aimless journey of a woman who is desperate to leave behind the monotony of her family life. Jean-Luc Godard’s 1965 science-fiction film noir Alphaville (4th) is just the thing for giving you the chills on a sticky summer night. Shot in black and white on the streets of Paris, Godard transforms the French capital into a dehumanised city of cold winters and huge buildings, where emotional expression is banned. Eddie Constantine plays the trench-coat wearing secret agent whose mission it is to destroy Alphaville and its dictatorial computer, Alpha 60. Week two of the festival focuses on the claustrophobia of class ties, with the work of not one but two heavyweight directors. Luis Buñuel’s 1962 film El ángel exterminador (10th) is a hard-hitting critique of bourgeoisie sensibilities set around a dinner party that no-one can leave, while Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s Fox and his Friends (11th) depicts the homosexual love affair between a humble working-class man and a ruthless high-society heartbreaker. Other festival highlights include David Lynch’s maddeningly mystifying Lost Highway (18th) and Morris Engel, Ruth Orkin and Ray Ashbury’s 1953 film Little Fugitive (26th)—described by French film legend François Truffaut as the inspiration behind the French New Wave. In place of irksome trailers, they’ll be showing a short film to settle you in. Preceding Little Fugitive is the première of a Gandules-produced short, Shaban i Subhan, about two children who turn the Raval into a summer playground during the long school holidays. --NY Films are screened every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday throughout August at 10pm in The Pati de les Dones at the CCCB. All films are in original version with subtitles in Spanish or Catalan. www.cccb.org.

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32 ON

BUSKING BY THE BEACH

ead to the beach between the 5th and 8th of August and you might find yourself shimmying home much later than you planned. For four days, the Buskers’ Festival will be taking over the streets of Barceloneta, with musicians from home and abroad setting up at ten different points along Passeig Joan de Borbó and Passeig Marítim. All of them will be determined to get those feet of yours moving anywhere but home. Now in its sixth year, Barcelona’s Buskers’ Festival is a multicultural affair and the focus is squarely on family fun and audience participation is to be expected. Don’t be surprised if you get swept off your feet for a tango by a light-footed pensioner. You have been warned. Showcasing street music from around the world, there’s everything from a German one-man band (Bernard M. Snyder) to a Swiss hip-hop brass outfit (Pullup Orchestra). Grab a partner for Acoustic Guiri Explosion’s French-infused swing or get up close and personal with the infectious cumbian rhythms of Los Vecinos, who come all the way from the Ecuadorian streets of Quito. Kids will love the clown/ukelele combo of El Gary y sus Pensivos or the cheery, trumpety brass of Italians Brassvolé. From Barcelona there’s jazz fusion from Dinatatak, reggae from Microguagua and the big samba mash-up of Brincadeira. Performances take place between 7pm and midnight and although the event is free, you should bring plenty of loose change so you can dig deep for your favourites when the hat gets passed round. With more than 30 acts, you’re sure to find something that gets your feet a-tapping. Who says nothing happens in August? --NY For more information check the website: www.buskersfestivalbarcelona.org

Streets ahead

ext time you’re in Gràcia, don’t be surprised if there’s someone rummaging in the bins for blue plastic bottle lids: they’re probably putting the finishing touches to a chandelier or a wolf’s nose. It’s all part and parcel of the finest barrio shindig of them all: the Festa Major de Gràcia, which this year takes place between the 15th and 21st of August. 17 streets prepare year-round for the hotly fought street-decorating competition and the results are always nothing short of spectacular. In addition to the thrill of walking past a butcher’s shop that’s been transformed into part of Aladdin’s Cave, there are over 500 events planned at different venues across Gràcia, from Castellers to childrens’ workshops, live music to theatre. Residents should make sure they get lots of sleep in preparation for a week of sleepless nights as the entertainment starts at midday and goes through until midnight. To see the streets at their best, it’s worth having a wander round during the day when it’s less busy and then returning at night. Carrer Perla, Carrer Joan Blanques and Carrer Verdi in particular are known for pulling out all the stops. --NY You can download the full programme at: www.festamajordegracia.cat.

For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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ON 33

BRINGING DOWN THE HOUSE

ove over Ibiza, Barcelona could just take its place in the spotlight this summer. Who says that the city should be known only for the famous works of Gaudí and its highly admired football team? Barcelona is on the way to becoming another epicentre for house music.

Most 20 year olds, like myself, make the annual trek to the ‘White Isle’, to catch their favourite DJs

spin till the sun comes up. But I have some good news, you can save that €100 or so plane ticket money because events like the Barcelona Music Conference (BMC 2010) and Barcelona Summer Week suggest that the city is fast becoming THE place to be for electro fanatics. There are not one but two opportunities to throw some shapes this month; BMC 2010, is a two-day music festival at the FIRA Montjuïc and Summer Week is a mammoth, 5-day, seemingly endless beach party. Putting in appearances at the BMC festival (August 6th to 7th), are world-famous DJs, Armin Van Buuren (pictured), Above & Beyond, Markus Schulz, Paul Van Dyk, Groove Armada and Eric Prydz to name but a few. Beaming lights, booming sound and an incredible energy will make for an unforgettable two nights as the city is transformed into a raver haven. If showing off your dance moves whilst sipping a mojito on the beach is more your cup of tea, then Summer Week (August 2th to 8th), is the one for you. This enormous party features some thirty clubs and over 100 DJs, with highlights including German electro-house duo Booka Shade and Italian DJ Misstress Barbara (pictured). Spread out over seven beaches the organisers are expecting around 50,000 seriously dedicated party people. With world-class line-ups of turntable talent set to rock out the sound systems, August in Barcelona now postively spoils house music fans with an amazing amount of entertainment. So could this be a turning point? Could Barcelona be trying to steal Ibiza’s crown? These two events certainly seem to prove that Barcelona is taking a major step into becoming a viable contender for the title of ‘Best Party Spot’ this summer. Who needs Ibiza?--CM For information go to: www.barcelonasummerweek.com and www.barcelonamusicconference.com

WHEN MORE IS DEFINITELY MORE

t simply wouldn’t be August if we didn’t give a small mention to the Festival Mas i Mas. We weren’t going to but you can’t really ignore it, thanks in no small part to the fact that there is little else on. Most people accept that their usual desire for culture wanes slightly in the heat and can happily replace it with a nice lie down in August, so they leisurely stroll to the nearest beach and indulge in a heat-induced coma for a month. But the Mas i Mas group bargained on there being a substantial portion of the population who didn’t appreciate the drought in things to do. So alongside their trusty sponser, San Miguel, they’ve been answering those people’s wishes since 2003. Two main points you need to know about the festival. Firstly, it is long. Every day of August has something scheduled. Secondly, they cater for a wide-range in musical tastes. Mas i Mas manages to provide for jazz fans, techno fans,

30-33 LIVE.indd 33

flamenco fans, classical fans and groove fans. It is also useful to know that some of the acts play more than once, putting in regular appearances throughout the festival. Even more note worthy is that they’ve bagged some of the nicest venues in town. Even if you aren’t mad keen on classical symphonies, hearing one on the terrace of the Pedrera surely appeals. Also a large number of the artists perform three concerts a night so if you miss one, you can always catch them later. The programme is a sizeable thing but it is worth printing out and keeping in your beach bag in case you suddenly feel the urge to listen to some live music instead of that carefully crafted summer playlist on your i-Pod.--KM

Festival Mas i Mas July 29th to September 1st Various venues. www.masimas.com

Silvia Pérez- Palau de la Música - August 1st

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34 ON

Arts

FINDING YOUR WAY

Michael Ayrton. Arkville Maze. Courtesy Jacob E. Nyenhuis, Michigan

enturies ago, the flâneur (French for stroller, saunterer or lounger) made aimless, but mindful, journeys through the city. Moving represented a philosophical act, a ‘re-creation’ served best by the things stumbled upon when the path was unclear and unpredicted. Long before the modern city, people built mazes and labyrinths to give the mind and the feet a path to wander. Sometimes representing a pilgrimage further afield, the original labyrinth put internal reflection and religious feeling in motion. Today, mystics continue to walk the paths of labyrinths and mazes with a spiritual objective. The labyrinth, characterised by a unicursal or single path, is the original meandering form. Gothic cathedrals abound with examples of labyrinths, as do the faces of Cretan coins. The early histories of people in North and South America, India and Australia, among others, incorporate instances of labyrinths into their religious and cultural expression. The maze, a labyrinth with choice, is a newer invention, first designed in the 15th century. By including unknowns—wrong turns leading to traps or double backs—the maze extends the labyrinth’s life metaphor, where the path is circuitous, challenging, unpredictable, but at some point, terminated. From now until the beginning of January, the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) hosts Per Laberints (Through Labyrinths), an exhibition of the historical, philosophical, religious and contemporary concepts and representations of mazes and labyrinths. The show includes artefacts, art works, texts and interactive spaces. Of particular note, the centre has transformed the Pati de les Dones courtyard into an interactive labyrinth. Formed by the shadows cast by a suspended structure, the labyrinth adapts in response to the position of the sun—a smart idea that reveres the philosophical underpinnings of the labyrinth as a life leitmotif. Inside, a single path labyrinth guides visitors through a portion of the exhibition. The show also includes one, where walls rise above eye-level and corridors lead to disorienting dead-ends (and, at one point, a maze of mirrors). Throughout August, the centre also presents Lost, Lost, Lost, a free, curated series of films with a labyrinthine theme (see page 31 for more details). Each film moves through unseen labyrinths—imagined worlds, unexpected transformations, meandering life paths—where the labyrinth is a feeling or state of mind, rather than a place. As a side note, you can walk a maze in the open air at Horta’s Parc del Laberint. The maze is a 19th century classic, bordered by cypress trees and decorated with statues. Open from 10 until dusk, you’ll certainly have enough time to get yourself in and, eventually, out. If you need a bit of help, send a friend to the little plaza that overlooks the maze. Or, take this chance to submit to the unknown. -- SB Per Laberints CCCB Until January 9th, 2011

A LIFE IN PICTURES

Barceló abans de Barceló Arts Santa Monica Until September 26th

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Miquel Barceló, La Solitude Organistative, 2008. Colección D’Ercole, Roma. CaixaForum

wo comprehensive exhibitions, running concurrently at the CaixaForum and Arts Santa Monica galleries, take you on a unique journey from past to present through the life of Miquel Barceló. The Mallorquin artist’s work (b. 1957) spans almost four decades with his early and lesser-known work, dating from between 1973 to 1982, being showcased at Arts Santa Monica, while the CaixaForum displays that of the last 25 years. Form and texture are strong underlying themes throughout. The changing factor is diversity between mediums; sculpture, paintings, drawings, sketches and books but all include the use of organic material. From intricate skeletal structures that draw you in close to enormous paintings enjoyed from various angles, it is clear Barceló was as comfortable expressing himself through a spectrum of artistic vehicles. It is through these varying means that we experience the evolution of his ideas, instruments and inspirations. Of the six different sections at Arts Santa Monica, the ‘Bestiary’ segment includes framed hair and fossilised animal remains. It is a clear realisation of his fascination with the animal world and the link he made to preservation. This theme, which forms a great part of his early work, continues into the later years. CaixaForum’s display of Barceló’s more recent work grows in scale yet encompasses the same intensity of textures, pigments and organic matter. Of particular interest is the video display of a joint project with dancer, Josef Nadj entitled, ‘The Paso Doble’. The projection unveils an element of the mystery behind his intriguing forms and creations. It’s a theatrical transformation of a fresh clay wall into a work of art. Performed by two artists, different in genre, yet linked by expression. Together, both exhibitions are an extensive representation of Barceló’s evolving work. An exploration of different themes and admirations expressed through various mediums. --TG Miquel Barceló - La Solitude Organisative CaixaForum Until January 9th, 2011

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IH BCN Metropolitan Advert Febrero 2010.pdf

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ON 35

QUICK PIC(K)S SOME OF THE ART SHOWS ON NOW IN BARCELONA

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2. Latifa Echakhch MACBA Until February 6th, 2011 www.macba.cat

4. Premio diseño para el reciclaje La Sala Vinçon Until September 4th www.vincon.com

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22/7/10 15:26:39

36 GASTRONOMY

Are you being served? Dissappointing food and bad service greeted our food writer at this new designer location

By Tara Stevens. Photo by Patricia Esteve. Mellow Beach Club Passeig del Mare Nostrum, 19-21 (Beneath the W Hotel) Tel. 93 295 2800 www.mellowbeachclub.com Open Mon-Sun 8.30am-1am Prix fixe menu €48 —Mains for €21

don’t do it very often, but when I do there rules you should adhere

diced, pallid chicken meat, a microscopic pool of dressing and a bag

to when complaining. 1). Don’t lose your cool—it won’t get you an-

of supermarket mixed leaves upended over the top of it. There were

ywhere. 2). Be polite and state clearly what your grievances are. 3).

no Parmesan shavings, not a hint of an anchovy. In my starvation I

Don’t expect a freebie, especially if you’ve managed to scarf down the

chomped miserably down on this inspiring little lot and wondered

food anyway, as an honourable place will fix it in an appropriate man-

what the hell they were doing. Suffice to say my guest’s Greek salad

ner. And finally, 4). Speak to the person in charge. There’s no point

was not a whole lot better.

yelling at the waiting staff, it’s probably not their fault.

Next up a tepid fillet of fish on some seen-better-days grilled veg-

And so, with this somewhat back-to-front way of being positive, I

gies, and my ﬁdeuà with the noodles standing to attention as they are

can’t commend the Mellow Beach Club enough for the way they dealt

supposed to, but I fear for all the wrong reasons. It looked as if they’d

with my complaint. It was impeccable. Unfortunately, when it comes

sat on a counter top for far too long waiting for someone to pick them

to food and service they have a long way to go.

up and deliver them. Pudding was a few chunks of pineapple and

Mellow by Custo is a collaboration between Belgian Dirk Vervaet the former Porsche Cup racing driver and Pedro Monge the roaming

some quite good vanilla ice cream for me; a trio of nondescript, watery sorbets for my pal.

celebrity chef (who it is rumoured Madonna was keen to add to her

I want to be clear here: I ate every last morsel, frankly I’d have

entourage before Vervaet secured him for this project). With Custo

eaten an old pair of shoes at that stage, but when the bill arrived for

Dalmau, the flamboyant fashion designer, behind the design of the

€108 for this lot plus two glasses of wine, I asked the young lady who

place. Perhaps they should all have stuck to their day jobs.

served us if she’d bring me the manager too.

The day of my visit we arrived, without a reservation granted, to

He arrived looking sheepish. I told him in the nicest way possible

a full terrace (the interior is dark, clubby and less appealing). But

that although I was happy to pay my bill, it had been one of the low-

a groovy little thing in shorts and flip-flops said a table was com-

liest experiences in my time as a restaurant critic. That when some-

ing free shortly, asked us to wait and left us standing, like rabbits

thing costs this much and is attached to a five-star hotel, they need

caught in headlights, in the middle of the floor. We took ourselves off

to get it right or at least explain what’s going on. Hell, turn me away,

to the leatherette banquettes (very Nineties of you Mr Custo if you

and tell me you are full.

don’t mind my saying) and waited, and waited, and waited. After, oh

To his credit he took it on the chin. He knew. He apologised pro-

I don’t know, 20 minutes of being studiously ignored, Monge sidled

fusely. Explained there was a big party on the beach that day and that

over, looking ever so slightly grim, and offered a drink on the house to

it had overstretched the kitchen. Waived the bill (the correct way to

pacify the encroaching bad mood.

deal with it) and implored me to come back and give them a second

20 minutes after that we were finally seated. 15 minutes after that

chance.

someone took our order. Another 15 minutes went by and we begged

And you know what, because he listened and took the criticism on

for some bread to stave off the hunger pangs. When the food finally

board, there may just be hope for this lot and there’s the tiniest chance

arrived it went something like this: Caesar salad consisting of a pile of

that return I will. Well, at least for a cocktail.

READ THE FOOD AND DRINK BLOG ON OUR WEBSITE FOR THE LATEST GOURMET NEWS AND REVIEWS: WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

40-41. food & drink option1.indd 56

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GASTRONOMY 37

RECIPE Fennel, orange and ruccola salad

By Tara Stevens As far as I’m concerned fennel is a much underused, little appreciated vegetable that packs all sorts of goodness. The ancient Greeks swore by it for weight loss (which can’t be a bad thing in this line of work), it’s also known to ease migraines and it happens to be in season in August. The classic way to have it is baked with fish; the aniseedy overtones seem to bring out all the flavours of the sea. This recipe however is from my forthcoming book: Clock Book: Recipes from the Modern Moroccan Kitchen (available October 2010) and calls for fennel in its raw state. The salad goes brilliantly with simply grilled mackerel or sardines. © Julius Honnor for Clock Book: Recipes from the Modern Moroccan Kitchen, 33 Books Ltd

Serves four as a side dish and two as a main course

Ingredients • 1 bulb of fennel (look for bulbs that are plump and juicy), thinly sliced • 1 orange (cut away the peel and pith with a knife then slice the segments away from the membrane) • 2-3 large handfuls of ruccola (or mix ruccola and

watercress) • 1 tbsp capers, rinsed • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • Freshly ground black pepper

Method Toss together all the ingredients, drizzle the oil over the top and add a grind of fresh, black pepper.

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38 GASTRONOMY

August Hotspots Looking for somewhere great to eat in shut-down August? This teeny tiny guide will see you through By Tara Stevens

The gourmet treat From humble beginnings in the Raval, Colibrí rose like, well like a humming bird I suppose, and fluttered off to the fancier quarters of the Eixample. From there it started to gain the attention of roving critics worldwide and for a while everyone was taking about it, then, silence. Perhaps to remind us of their existence, they’ve rather generously come up with a gourmet, four-course, tasting menu for just €37 (lunch and dinner). Highlights include grilled octopus on a yellow chilli and potato puree, loin of bacalao with ginger and bean confit topped with a poached egg, or steak tartare a la “Colibrí” and pineapple soup with bitter orange and coconut pearls. I’m drooling just typing it. Colibrí. Casanova 212. Tel. 93 443 2306, www.restaurantcolibri.com

The neighbourhood classic Local stalwart La Gardunya, like so many of these places, has a tendency to fall off the radar. But they celebrated 30 years of business on July 13th, so they must be getting something right. Like sourcing all of their products straight from the stalls of the Boqueria and cooking them there and then in their premises at the back of the market. If you can, snaffle one of the high tables on the terrace—they have a uniquely back-door atmosphere, what with delivery trucks coming and going—but it’s a great place to tuck into one of their hearty, summer-friendly salads and watch the to-ings and fro-ings of the market. Menú del dia €13, menú del noche €16. La Gardunya. Jerusalem 18. Tel. 93 302 4323, www.lagardunya.com

The newcomer Old-timer Casa Delfín reopened earlier this year with new owners and a serious makeover and quickly started making waves of its own. Now retro wallpaper in soothing shades of green line the mezzazine floor and a Pop-art chandelier dominates the main dining room. Go for breakfast and locals are gathered sipping coffee and having their daily tertulia. For lunch a mixed crowd can be found people watching on the terrace with huge pots of arroz caldoso and paella. By dinner it’s all about the tapas: meaty slivers of mojama (dry-cured tuna) topped with a Catalan mirepoix (a combination of onions, carrots, and celery), sardines cooked in salt, and bubbling chorizos in cider with plenty of crisp Marques de Alella to wash it down. Shared tapas approx€€25 per head.

Colibrí’s steak tartare

Casa Delfín. Passeig del Born 36. Tel. 93 319 5088.

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23/7/10 14:02:43

FREE

NETWORKING EVENT Tuesday 3rd August at 7.30pm

Music from Cuban Jazz Fusion - Laia Porta & friends starts at 9pm

Come and join us at Margarita Blue to meet international people from all over the world, exchange ideas, network and make new contacts.

Invitation glass of cava or a Margarita Blue chupito

Barcelona Be part of it

full page aug 2010.indd 1

C/Josep Anselm Clave 6

Drassanes

20/7/10 15:31:31

Food&Drink

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Sand Bar4EIXAMPLE E Looking for somewhere new to watch the match or hear good music? Try the Sandbar. Owned by a British couple and their American partner, the sports and music bar opened in June 2010. Serving delicious Thai and European cuisine they have plans to hold comedy, jazz and live music nights. Happy Hour 5pm-7pm. Join them on facebook, www.facebook.com/sandbarbcn and stay in touch with their website, www.sandbarbcn.com

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Bar - Live Music 7 Sins Bar and Lounge4EIXAMPLE e New food menu with an even bigger selection of American style burgers, including chicken fillet and vegetarian options. Tasty tapas accompanied by one of our 7 beers on draught or 7 deadly cocktails for the ladies…? Entertainment every weekend in the basement club bar where you will find local & international DJ’s as well as live music acts. A great pre-club venue to get your weekend started. Big screen sports events over 2 floors. All Champions league games. Join them on Facebook “7 Sins Barcelona” to receive info on weekly events. C/Muntaner 7 | Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 www.7sinsbar.com | Mon-Fri 11am-3am, Sat-Sun 6pm-3am | RV

Margarita Blue 4BARRI GÒTIC Located in the heart of old Barcelona, Margarita Blue has become a classic in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchen, such as a variety of tacos, amazing guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new music and spectacular shows that alternate between theatre and performance art. Come and enjoy the Metropolitan networking event and meet new people. Tuesday 3rd August from 7.30pm with live music from Laia Porta and friends at 9pm. C/Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Drassanes | Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV

Food & drink_August10 .indd 42

Barraval 4Raval Located in the heart of the Raval quarter, Barraval offers great Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine alongside a trendy atmosphere and great cocktails. Taste our new ‘Tapas and Platillos’ menu. You can also stop at the bar for a great cocktail and listen to soul, jazz, Latin and R&B music played by resident DJs. Private rooms are available for groups, parties and special events. Every Wednesday we have ‘After Office’ - enjoy a special complimentary chef’s dish when ordering a drink. Weekend Lunch Special: Paella Menu for 15. C/Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) Liceu / Sant Antoni | Tel. 93 329 82 77/ 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch RV

cara bela4barceloneta Cara bela has one of the sunniest terraces on Port Vell with fantastic views of the Barcelona Head Sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein. They offer great sandwiches and tapas as well as freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Pas de Soto Muralla, 3 I Barceloneta Tel. 697 152 215 I Mon-Sun 10am -2am

Food&Drink to advertise in this section, please call 93 4514486 or email ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

23/7/10 14:13:30

FOOD & DRINK 41 Café – Ice Cream Shop ART I SA4BARRI GÒTIC Natural and organic delicatessen, café and ice cream shop. • Fantastic selection of the most typical Catalan products, made in the most traditional and natural way • Perfect as a treat for yourself, or a gift for a loved one. • Choose from a selection of different crêpes, sandwiches, cakes and natural ice-cream for a truly original experience.

C/Colom 2 (Plaça Real) | Liceu | Tel. 93 186 3623 www.artisa.es | Every Day 10am-10pm

Indian - Hindu Govinda (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Pl. Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Hard Rock CafE4CIUTAT VELLA Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their berbecue entrees slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin.

veg world4GRÀCIA Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like MASALA DOSA and IDLY. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet.

C/Bruniquer 26 | Plaça Joanic | Tel. 93 210 7056 Tuesday – Sunday 1pm – 4pm, 8pm – 11:30pm

Indian - Modern moti mahal4RAVAL Conveniently located between the Rambla de Raval and Paral-lel, Moti Mahal offers an extensive menu of Indian cuisine, including madras and tika dishes, sheek kebabs, traditional soups breads and biryanis. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are also available. House specialities are the clay oven-cooked tandoori dishes and the tofu paneer pakora. Menu of the day is on offer Monday - Friday for 9.25 and an evening and weekend tasting menu for 14.95.  All items can be prepared mild, spicy, super spicy or suicide. Take-away is available. C/Sant Pau 103 | Paral.lel | Tel. 93 329 3252 www.motimahalbcn.com | Every day 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am Closed Tues Lunch | RV

International

ANDú4JAUME 1 Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams. C/ del Correo Viejo I Mon-Sun 6pm -2.30am

Food & drink_August10 .indd 43

Jaume 1 I Tel. 646 553 930

Restaurant | cocktail lounge

Princesa 234BORN Princesa 23 prides itself on their friendly, multilingual and attentive staff, service rarely enjoyed in Barcelona.  The kitchen provides a range of international food including traditional tapas, paella and chef’s specials. Open every day from 12pm. Come and enjoy their NEW menu of the day format for 12.50. Monday to Friday from 12pm until 5pm. Mojitos and capiriñas for only 4 all day, every day!

C/Princesa 23 | Jaume I | Tel. 93 268 8618 | www.princesa.es Sun-Thurs 12pm-2am, Fri-Sat 12pm-3am

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42 FOOD & DRINK thai tHai Gracia4GRÀcIa A new Thai restaurant has just opened on the edge of Gràcia! Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The pad thai, green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menu del dia is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. C/ Córcega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm -4pm 8pm-12am | RV

tHai tHai4eIXaMPle e Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.

la HacienDa4boRn Billing itself as “The Mexican Experience” with hacienda decor and traditional masks adorning the walls, this newly opened restaurant offers special dishes using traditional Mexican recipes with a twist. Recommended are the house specialities molcajete, beef, chicken or veggies sizzling on a volcanic rock with chorizo, avocado and spring onion, or nopalitos gratinados, grilled fillets of cactus - and don’t forget the tequila! There are many types on offer including 4 frozen margaritas and Jimador.

C/Diputació 91 | C/Princep Jordi, 6 | 8pm-12am | RV

Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | www.thaithai.es España | Tel. 663 126 398 Every day 1pm-4pm,

vegetarian aMaltea4eIXaMPle e

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables, with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15. C/Rec 69 (Born) | Jaume I, Barceloneta | Tel. 933 100 073 | www.lahaciendabarcelona.com Open every day 12pm-3am.

Mexican

C/Diputació 164 | Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, Mon-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun

vietnamese vinDa4JaUMe 1 Vinda is a fantastic Mexican bar and restaurant that is famous for is amazing margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos. Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, they offer an incredible selection of Mexican dishes and tapas that will put you in the mood for an unforgettable night out on the town. Ask the cocktail barman for recommendations!

C/ Regomir , 4 I Jaume 1 Tel. 93 319 8956 Mon-Sun 6pm -2am I Vindabar@gmail.com

take-away PiM PaM BurGer4boRn Quality is of utmost importance making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.

C/Sabateret 4 I Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 burger@pimpamplats.com I www.pimpamplats.com Every day 1pm-12am

Food & drink_August10 .indd 44

BunBo vietnaM4baRRI GÒtIc Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day.

C/Sagristans 3 |

Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | 1pm-1am Every day

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Beauty | Health | Wellbeing 43 Hairdressers

Marketplace 4 Services directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 44 86 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

beauty health & wellbeing

home services

education

services

business employment Fashion

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Hairdressers Fashion Bodywork/Massage Dentists Doctors Chiropractors Pharmacy Veterinarian Psychologists / Psychotherapists Rehabilitation Centres HypnoBirthing Martial Arts Interior Design Plumbing Security Construction Handyman Relocation Real Estate & Accommodation Transport / Storage / Removals Language Schools Activities Translation Course Piano Lessons Computers Television Services Drinks distributor Tax Services Legal Practices Insurance Financial Services Job Opportunities

43 43 43-44 44 44 45 45 45 45-46 46 46 47 47 47 47 47 48 48 48 48-49 49-51 51 51 51 51-52 52 53 53 53-54 54 55 55-56

Bodywork / Massage

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44 Beauty | Health | Wellbeing Bodywork / Massage

Dentists

American Dentist

Associate Member of American Dental Association Dr. Joseph de Vilallonga

We Fix Smiles 659 443 583

Dr. Nicholas Jones BDSLDSRCS Col. No 4090

www.clinicavilallonga.com English, Japanese and Spanish spoken

FREE CHECK-UPS

General & Cosmetic dentistry Orthodontics Implants & Tooth whitening Smile makeovers

100% Ceramic Crowns First review at no cost

General Dentistry Implants

Emergency Line

English Dentist Diagonal 281 (Sagrada familia L5/Monumental L2) Tel. 93 265 80 70 / Mob. 607 332 335 Open Monday to Saturday

American Dental Association

nickteeth@hotmail.com www.nickteeth.com

Calvet, 15 pral. 1ª - 08021 Barcelona • Tel. 93 209 61 21

Doctors Leila Catherine Onbargi, M.D.

OBSTETRICS and GYNECOLOGY

Centro Medico Teknon American Board Certified C/Vilana, 12 • consulta 161 Barcelona • Tel: 93 393 3161 Email: dr.onbargi@gmail.com www.teknon.es/consultorio/onbargi Fellow, American College OB/GYN Diplomate American Board of OB/GYN

ENGLISH • SPANISH • FRENCH

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Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing 45 Chiropractors

ULTRAMED Our Doctors can help you improve your health through various natural methods:

Chiropractic Acupuncture Homeopathy Chiro Massage

Please contact us for a free consultation:

www.ultramed.es - info@ultramed.es C/ Bruc 76 - 93 487 9648 Pharmacy

Veterinarian

Psychologists / Psychotherapists

English Speaking and Trained Counsellor and Psychotherapist Help and Support with; • Lack of Energy or Low Self-Esteem • Improving Family and Personal Relationships • Feelings of Anger, Loneliness and Isolation, or Anxiety • Expat Issues and Adapting to, or Preparing for, Change • Achieving a Particular Goal or Finding a New Direction • Changing Unhelpful or Destructive Habits or Patterns of Behaviour

Free Initial 20 minute Introductory Meeting

Jonathan Lane Hooker

Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide Tel: 93 590 7654 • Mob: 639 579 646 • jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com

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46 Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing Psychologists / Psychotherapists

Nick Cross Reg. psychologist no. 17158

(Col·legi Oficial de Psicòlegs de Catalunya)

Psychologist Psychotherapist Psychodynamically-oriented psychotherapy can provide effective treatment for: • anxiety & fears • depression • problems adjusting • relational difficulties • loss • trauma • neuroses

Tel. 644 193 825 e.mail ncross@copc.es

Rehabilitation Centres

REHAB SERENITY HOUSE Problems with Alcohol & Cocaine abuse The most comprehensive 12 step programme in Europe 28 day all inclusive programme

(0034) 956 127 371 • www.serenityhouse.co.uk HypnoBirthing

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Interior Design

Martial Arts

Beauty | Health | Wellbeing | Home Services 47

Wing Chun is a concept-based system of self defence from southern China, renowned for it’s simple, direct techniques. Improve both your body and mind. Find out more at:

www.barcelonawingchun.com Contact David on 617 357 184 or david_615734@yahoo.co.uk Classes every Tuesday & Thursday 7pm - 8.30pm C/ Enric Granados 48, 08008, Barcelona

Plumbing GRAHAM COLLINS PROPERTY CONSULTANCY INTER IOR DESIGN & DECOR ATION Puzzled by the property market ? Need a renovator that speaks your language ? Want that designed look on an Ikea budget ? C / CONSULAT DEL MAR 35, 3er BARCELONA t: 0034 678 75 75 11 e: grahamcollins@talk21.com

Construction

Security

Locksmith Specialists in security Lost your keys? Can´t get in? Unlocking locks Changing locks Metal shutters Automatic Safety doors Security systems Fences & balconies Access control

Give me a call:

607 88 66 22

24 hours Reasonable rates | English spokenn |

info@mastercerrajeros.com

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48 Home Services Handyman

Relocation

Real Estate & Accommodation

Transport / Storage / Removals

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HomE SErvicES

| Education 49

Transport / Storage / Removals

Language Schools

SPANISH COURSES

ACELE

Catalan Association of Spanish Language Schools

Your guarantee of high quality service (*) abcCollege www.abccollege.es

Centro Humboldt www.centrohumboldt.com

Enforex www.enforex.com

BCN Languages www.bcnlanguages.com

Don Quijote www.donquijote.org

IH Barcelona www.ihes.com/bcn

(*) All ACELE schools have been accredited by the Cervantes Institute and/or CEELE.

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50 Education Language Schools

New courses starting every month

Enrol today to speak Spanish tomorrow!

CEE, Roger de Llúria 123 (Provença) <M> Diagonal/Verdaguer Tel. 934 880 080 info@cursos.org http://www.cursos.org

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Education Language Schools

| SErvicES

Spanish Courses

Special summer offer! • Courses of 10, 20 or 30 hours a week • Classes from 9:00 to 21:00 • Small groups • 8 diﬀerent levels

1 month 320€ (20 hours/week)

1 month 170€ (10 hours/week)

C/ Ausias March 26 08010 Barcelona 933 115 824

Activities

Piano Lessons

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www.bindungbarcelona.com info@bindungbarcelona.com

TwO weekS juST € 160 (20 HrS/week)

Learn Spanish at Oxford House

www.oxfordhousebcn.com/languages C/Girona 83, ppal. (C/Aragó)

Girona • Tel: 93 458 01 11 • info@oxfordtefl.com

Translation Course

Computers

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52 Services Computers

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Television Services

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Services Drink distributor

| Business

Tax Services

Legal Practices

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54 Business Legal Practices

Insurance

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Employment Financial Services

| Business

Job Opportunities

www.spectrum-ifa.com

Financial Advice on all aspects of living in Spain from our experienced, regulated and qualified team. For your free guide to independent financial advice email barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com or phone 93 665 8596

Independent Financial Advisers

Regulated in Spain. Offices also in France, Luxembourg, Netherlands and Switzerland The Spectrum IFA Group en España – Baskerville Advisers S.L. CIF B-63/137.020 – Correduría de Seguros; Nº de registro RDGS J2306 Paseo de Gracia 63, Principal 2a, 08008, Barcelona - Seguro responsabilidad civil AIG Europe Nº 0131900503.1330 Registro Mercantil de Barcelona, Tomo 35489, Folio 170, Sección 8, Hoja B-269534

Agents/Distributors wanted: MEGACALL Fast expanding Telecoms business specialising in the S.M.E (PYMES) market are now recruiting sales agents. Monthly recurring income. Full training given and full office back up. Send your CV to admin@megacall.es or call 952667511 for more details

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A4 aug 2010.pdf

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BACK PAGE 58

Nature study

swaggering nudist.

or some of the wilder exhibits in Barce-

herself to meet our three graces to discuss their

lona’s human zoo, Barceloneta beach has

posturing. She was elegantly attired, as befits a

Fortunately, the law has yet to legislate

long been the place to go. And recently,

serious politician. They were elegantly naked, as

against simple nudity—though if it did, the na-

some of the exhibits have become ever wilder.

befits serious nudists. The results of the meeting

ture of Spain’s naturists suggests they would

Or at least more exhibitionist. Among the sun-

were inconclusive. Live and let live.

continue to disregard their clothes regardless.

bathers, smoochers, dope-smokers, wallet whis-

Most outraged correspondents to the local

When Barcelona’s ‘official’ nudist zone was

pererers, fairytale masseuses with their fairytale

press complain that they and their children

moved to Mar Bella beach, the net result wasn’t

endings and other assorted hawkers, gawkers

shouldn’t be forced to watch these depraved in-

a relocation, but a doubling of capacity. Some

and stalkers, three merry men have taken it upon

dividuals disport themselves as they please. It’s

nudists moved to the new venue, others stayed

themselves to bring Corinthian ideals of open-

a frequent argument that implies they are help-

where they were. This made a lot of sense. Over-

ness and healthy-living to the seedy ambience of

less victims of an unavoidable outrage. In real-

crowding is bad enough on any beach. Much

the beach. On sunny days—and often on cloudy

ity, the solution is simple: don’t look! No one’s

worse when everyone is naked. It’s one thing to

ones—they can be found parading naked, cre-

gripping their heads in a vice and peeling open

be close to nature but it’s quite another to be so

ating an ambulant spectacle that arouses more

their eyelids.

close it brushes against you as it stretches out its

Their complaints might have a little more res-

towel or applies its sun cream. (And remember,

These three musketeers aren’t skulking out of

onance if Barceloneta offered uncluttered vistas

nudist neophytes, sun cream is particularly im-

sight at the far end of the beach, the traditional

of maritime beauty. But if anyone goes there for

portant when you’re baring all. You don’t want

haunt of the naked. Nor over at Mar Bella beach,

the natural landscape, they’ve been misled. They

your pink bits to be red bits).

segregated into the designated nude zone. In-

go expecting a human zoo, and a human zoo is

So why not make all beaches nude beaches?

stead, they’re waving it around the entire length

what greets them, naked or otherwise, with its

Corral the clothed into special zones and let

of the boardwalk, maximising their exposure in

sea-lions, beach elephants, lolling orang-utans

everyone else do what they want. No one forces

every sense.

and commodious dragons. The human body is a

non-nudists to participate—although imagine if

What’s amusing are the reactions they in-

various feast, and no amount of nylon, lycra or

they did; it might deter some of the gleeful spec-

spire. For tourists from countries where nudity

spandex is going to hide the fact. If you object

tators of all ages and nationalities (though only

is frowned upon, legislated against and possibly

to nudity, you’ll be fairly uncomfortable with

one gender, sadly) who take the beach-as-zoo

severely castigated, reactions vary from dis-

Speedos, bikinis and even boardshorts, depend-

analogy rather too literally and don’t even pay

belief and hilarity to dismay and ill-concealed

ing on the physical attributes of the wearer. To

for the privilege of viewing all that naked flesh.

disgust. For locals, it’s a combination of resigna-

say nothing of thongs, in both male and female

Not that this seems to bother our three naked

tion, muttered disparagement and frenzied let-

variants, which manage to be both more osten-

stooges in the slightest.

ter-writing. A local councillor even took it upon

tatious and far less appealing than the most

amusement that applause. Or arousal.

HOROSCOPE

by Nuria Picola

Aries August is the time to have

Taurus Communication will figu-

-- Roger de Flower

www.nuriapicola.com

re highly in the lives of Taureans this month be it by computer, phone or mobile. Positive changes are afoot when you return to work after the holidays.

Gemini Now’s the time to devote your attention to your emotional and family life—organize a holiday with them if you can. Although finances might be a bit stretched, do something impulsive.

Cancer You should have made drastic changes to your personal finances a long time ago and now you’re left with no option but to tighten your belt. Draw up a budget and stick to it.

Leo You’re king of the world! However your attitude hasn’t been good recently. You’ve made changes but need to keep working at it, especially in your love life, which will be tested this month.

Virgo Take a long hard look at the people you surround yourself with: not all of them have a positive affect on your life. You’ll have the chance to change your job or working conditions.

Libra This month you will have more authority and power professionally which might cause you and partner to start competing. You will need to arm yourself with kindness and friendship.

Scorpio Act now! The moment has come for you to evaluate your financial situation in great detail, going over all transactions and to work at dotting the ‘i’s and crossing the ‘t’s. Avoid risky situations.

Sagittarius Just for this month, focus your attention on work and your day to day life rather than on your family or emotional wellbeing. If you do, you’ll succeed in achieving your objectives.

Capricorn Your health is much better this month after recent problems however you will need to keep an eye on what you eat and try to detox. Relax and take things easy.

Aquarius Now’s the time to take stock, look inwards and revise your personal goals. If you’re honest with yourself, you’ll make progress and your self-confidence will improve.

Pisces This month you need to get out and socialise in order to gain the collaboration of others. Love is important for Pisceans this month but it won’t be without problems and complications.

fun and concentrate on the important things in life. Home is where the heart is and anything you organise at your place will be fun. A parent may have some health problems.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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Finest Real Estate Maresme & Sitges

Mataró, Can Quirze: New housing with sea views and minimalist design finishes. Community area with pool. Liv. surf. 325sqm. 4 bed., 3 bath. ID-No.: W-009BJJ. Price: € 975,000.

Alella: Single-family house with sea views in urban development. Large garden with pool. Liv. surf. 281 sqm. Plot 1,153 sqm. 5 bed., 3 bath. ID-No.: W-009LZC. Price: € 850,000.

Premià de Dalt: Single-family house with sea views. Minimalist style new construction. 5 bed., 4 bath., elevator. Liv. surf. 450sqm. Plot 1,090sqm. ID-No.: W-00A4F5. Price: € 995,000.

Alella: Single family house with great privacy and views located in an urban development. Liv. surf. 232 sqm. Plot 600sqm. 5 bed. 3 bath. ID-No.: W-009NN5. Price: €/month 1,600.

Alella, Can Teixidó: Great housing located in a prestigious urban development, in front of the sea. 4 suites. Liv. surf. 400 sqm. Plot 1,700 sqm. ID-No.: W-00A6SC. Price: €/month 5,000.

St. Andreu de Llavaneres: Single-family house with pool. 4 bed., 3 bath., recently renovated. With furniture. Liv. surf. 570sqm. Plot 3,000 sqm. ID-No.:W-008UF0. Price: €/month 2,900.

Sitges, center: Fabulous duplex in a very quite area. New construction. 2 suites and a diaphanous space. Large solarium terrace on the top floor. ID-No.: W-00A7Q3. Price: € 950,000.

Sitges, Vallpineda: Fantastic swimming-pool with private garden, outdoor Jacuzzi and views. 5 bed., 4 bath. Liv. surf. 280 sqm. Plot 600 sqm. ID-No.: W-0080A0. Price: € 1,495,000.

Sitges, Vinyet: Beautiful house designed by the famous architect Coderch. Pool and garden. 5 bed., 4 bath. Liv. surf. 350sqm. Plot 800sqm. ID-No.:W- 00901A. Price: € 2,500,000.

Maresme Shop · Tel.: 93 540 22 22 · Maresme@engelvoelkers.com · www.engelvoelkers.es Sitges Shop · Tel.: 93 540 22 22 · Sitges@engelvoelkers.com · www.engelvoelkers.es

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you never know when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;LL need good spanish With highly qualified teachers, specialised Spanish programmes adapted to your needs and top quality language facilities, ESADE-Executive Language Center offers you the best preparation to communicate successfully in Spanish â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even in the most difficult situations. Tel. 900 180 358 spanish@esade.edu www.esade.edu/spanish

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