January 2013 Nยบ 192 Free
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Their incredible Japanese-Brazilian fusion cuisine combined with the fantastic interior design, great atmosphere and excellent service make this restaurant
ikibana, Paral路lel branch
an experience not to be missed!
路
Passeig de Picasso 32, 08001 Tel. 93 295 6732 www.ikibana.es Monday to Friday: 1.30pm-4.00pm, 8.30pm-12.00pm Weekends: 1.30pm-4.00pm, 8.30pm-12.30pm
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Avinguda del Paral lel 148, 08015 Tel. 93 424 4648 www.ikibana.es Monday to Friday: 1 pm-1 am Weekends: 1pm-3am Kitchen open until 1am
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Contents
January
Features 14 18 22
La Sardana Senegalese Trolley Men MNAC
Regulars 06 07 11 13 24 30 50
An Inside Look Around Town Fact-checker: Mercabarna Interview: Zoe Queally Ideas: Culture, Gastronomy Escape the City Back Page
Directories 36 40 48
Food & Drink Business Jobs
14. LA SARDANA
22. MNAC
From the Editor: We are born with a need to improve. All invention, plans, our best intentions are driven forward by an urge to satisfy the seemingly contradictory desires to be secure and to be free. We look at the Senegalese men who have risked their lives with the hope of a better future. An article on the sardana explores a dance which asserts a need for unity and self-expression. We review an exhibition at the CaixaForum of an ancient civilization that gave us the wheel with which to move forward, and our piece on the Petit Liceu suggests a way to challenge kids with culture. A lively article on the MNAC will have you climbing the long stairs up Montjuïc, not just for the exercise but for the artwork. And our suggestions for wintery escapes from the city will have you getting in shape on the slopes while enjoying the freedom of the great outdoors. So as tempting as laying in bed with the covers over your head might seem on a dark January morning, rise and shine! Nature calls. Lynn Baiori
27. Mesopotamia
Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Acting Senior Editor Lynn Baiori Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Maria Galindo Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Carol Moran, Said Saleh, Emily Tarbuck Sales Administrator Clara Davies Design Assistants Markus Kreutzer and Nazli Gürkas Contributors Petra Barnby, Jonathan Bennett, Rupert Crookenden, Louise Johnson, Jordi de Nadal, Roger de Flower, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover photo José Tomás Pujol Carabantes Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.
Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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06 COVER
An inside look Photographer José Tomás Pujol Carabantes www.ijustookapictureof.it My name is José Tomás Pujol Carabantes but everyone calls me Pepe. In 2011, I returned to my family roots in Barcelona. My grandfather, a Catalan, lived most of his life in Chile, where my family comes from. I was born in Costa Rica; my father worked for the United Nations and I grew up in Turin, Italy, where I spent 20 years of my life. I studied in a French school then went to The Fine Arts Academy in Turin to study painting. I also studied photography in Berlin, where I lived for two years. In 2004 I got a masters degree from Efti photography school in Madrid. Barcelona is a perfect broth for my ideas and the way I conceive art. I never miss what is going on at CaixaForum. It always maintains a very good artistic level and it shows the extent culture and collectivity plays in Barcelona. I always avoid going to El Raval at night with my camera. A building: Not strictly a building but I love the Forum area of Barcelona. Urban landscape at its most dramatic. An inspiration: I find inspiration in everything. I love to be able to create something beautiful from a banal scenario. A place to go with friends: Base Elements Urban Art Gallery in Carrer del Palau. On my to-do list: I want to snowboard down Tibidabo, through Gràcia and down Via Laietana to La Moll de la Fusta. About the cover: A cross road in the middle of El Gótico. People pass by and don’t see it as a photo but it has as much impact as a graphic image as it does in reality.
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AROUND TOWN 07
Art of the city
Multidisciplinary artist Serge Mendjisky presents his work for the first time in Barcelona, with an inspired vision of urban centres that challenge our perceptions. Through a technique of deconstructing and reconstructing images of some of the world’s major cities, this mature and inventive artist offers us a new pair of eyes to perceive what we see. A member of the École de Paris, Mendijisky studied in France, moving in the same circles as Picasso, Braque, Soutine and Léger. His collage interpretations of urban views are stunning, colourful portraits that bring the viewer into a world where we are seduced by each of the cities in this beautiful collection. Serge Mendjisky: La Ville au Coeur, Villa del Arte Galleries Tapinería 39. Until January 21st
January
AROUND TOWN
Recent Work
You will have an opportunity this month to come face-to-face with emerging artistic talent Guillermo Carrion and see first hand his recent work, a series of large canvasses where Carrion manages to capture not only the colours and textures of modern cityscapes but somehow transmits the very soul of each urban entity. The show focuses on four cities, New York, Tokyo, Dublin and Barcelona. The canvasses will be changed during the month, keeping the display active. As well as the exhibition at the Espacio Visible, you can arrange to visit the artist at his adjoining studio. The art of Guillermo Carrion, Espacio Visible, Trafalgar 43. Until January 30th. www.guillermocarrionart.com www.espaciovisible.net Guillermo Carrion Tokio Tower and New York city. Photos by Lita Bosch
Cavalcada dels REIS The new year can bring a lot of things; the feeling of overindulgence, the promise of righteous New Year’s resolutions, and the most anticipated for the young and the young at heart, the Cavalcada dels Reis, or the arrival of The Three Kings. The equivalent of Santa Claus for children in Spain, towns and cities across the country come to a standstill and wait to greet these very special visitors. The city of Barcelona celebrates this deeply-rooted tradition with a parade on January 5th, the night when the Three Wise Men, known as Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar, come bearing gifts to the crowds of children lining the streets as they watch in awe. The Kings arrive by ship to the port of Barcelona at 5pm, where they are given an official welcome by the mayor. Then the parade begins, passing along Via Laietana, past Plaça Catalunya and continuing on to Avinguda de Reina Maria Cristina, near Plaça Espanya. Information and the full route can be found at: www.bcn.cat/nadal
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08 AROUND TOWN
Warm welcome Located right at the bottom of the Eixample—just a few streets over from the Universitat de Barcelona—in an area thriving with bars and clubs, sits a gem: the MAT Bar by Crick and Tommy (who brought us Federal Cafe). It’s got a great vibe, nice wine and cocktails, and snacks. Described as a ‘straight-friendly gay bar’, the space is sleek without being stuffy, with friendly staff and reasonablypriced drinks. There’s even complementary popcorn delivered to your table and refilled at your command. The bar itself is decorated in a subtle, retro-sports theme, with old-school skipping ropes and tennis rackets adorning the walls. Temporary tattoos in the design of shuttlecocks arrive with your bill, adding a bit of fun to the transaction. MAT has mastered grown-up chic, with just the right amount of quirkiness and cool to keep it feeling fresh. MAT Bar. Consell de Cent 245. www.matbar.es
Bringing home the bacon What better place to open a Spanish ham and cava speciality shop than in that mini-Iberian world, the Poble Espanyol. Aptly named, Cava y Jamón offers regional specialities in an authentic atmosphere, with a large selection of Iberian ham and local cavas. Located in the Plaça Mayor, it’s easy to find and offers a chance to people-watch while tasting cuts of Iberian pork or seasonal Catalan tapas. Accompany that with a glass of the local cava and enjoy life as the bubbles fill your head. After some extensive taste-testing has
Get your groove Omm
been completed, peruse the vast array of typical regional specialities where you can find a selection of cold meats to take home. The product is well and truly the protagonist here and is complemented by the store’s clean design, which is beautifully constructed entirely of natural materials. Cava y Jamón. Pueblo Espanyol, Plaza Mayor 23-24, T. 93 327 9533
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AROUND TOWN 09
One of a kind On the thinnest strip of sidewalk along Gràcia’s Torrent de l’Olla a treasure box of accessories almost lies hidden. But stop long enough to glance in the window and you’ll be drawn in. There you’ll find piece after piece of unique jewellery, plus accessories such as a cool selection of hats, some handmade, all very original. Elisa Brunells is a designer with a total of 22 years of experience in metal-work. What’s more, her range of unique silver and enamel rings are designed so no two pieces are the same and are adjusted in-store for each customer. Some of the most interesting pieces are from a recent collection Brunells designed in collaboration with sculptor Naxo Farreras. It features acrylic rings (€18) and earrings (€22) in the form of clouds (pictured above). Elisa Brunells. Torrent de l’Olla 30. And also on Flassaders 36-38 www.elisabrunells.com
In Barcelona, hotels are not just for tourists. The more recent trend of drinks on a rooftop terrace opened up a new view on the city during the warmer months. Until the weather permits al fresco cocktails again, hotels are creating intimate interior spaces to mingle. Frequented by both locals and out-of-towners, the Hotel OMM is a cosy and exciting place to stop for a drink; its bar area is sleekly furnished with large sofas, armchairs and a fireplace. In the basement Ommsession Club has live music, hosts local and international DJs and serves an extensive list of cocktails. Ommsession is open every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 11.30pm. www. facebook.com/ommsessionclub
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FACT-CHECKER 11
(ALMOST) ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: MERCABARNA. Mercabarna is the management company that exercises control over four elephantine wholesale markets (Central Fruit and Vegetable Market, Central Fish Market, Central Flower Market and the Mercabarna Slaughterhouse). It’s also the umbrella term used to describe the precinct within which these four wholesale markets, and countless other related edifices, are housed. Its sphere of influence encompasses not only the entirety of Catalunya, but Spain, the south of France and the north of Italy. This is due to Mercabarna’s sheer size and strategically-located geographical position, which facilitates ease of access from land, air and sea.
QUICK FACTS • Over 300 companies operate in Mercabarna’s four central markets and over 800 in the complex of Mercabarna as a whole. • Mercabarna contains 22 restaurants, a hair salon, a pharmacy, banks, a hardware store, a newsagent, and its own waste water treatment plant. • The Central Fruit and Vegetable Market adopted day-time business hours in 1989. This is in contrast to the operating times of the majority of fruit and vegetable wholesale markets the world over. • The roof of the Central Flower Market is fitted with a carpet of 3,000m2 photovoltaic panels which supply the energy needed to run the market. • The Mercabarna Slaughterhouse produces 26,000 tonnes of meat every year and is the second largest of its kind in Spain. • Over 41% of the produce entering into the Central Fish Market is imported, a 9% decrease from the pre-crisis figures.
IN THE BEGINNING Before Mercabarna came into existence, wholesale food markets were centrally located within Barcelona itself. Such markets were housed in well-known social and cultural venues such as Mercat del Born, Parc Joan Miró and Teatre Lliure. In 1971, the Central Fruit and Vegetable Market relocated from its position within the present Mercat del Born. Barcelona’s slaughterhouse and the Central Fish Market relocated to the Mercabarna precinct in 1979 and 1983 respectively. The previous Flower Market was moved to Mercabarna in 1984 but burned down in 2001. Construction of the new Flower Market was completed in 2008.
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IN NUMBERS The area of land upon which Mercabarna operates covers approximately hectares of the Zona Franca plus another four-anda-half hectares occupied by the flower market in Sant Boi.
90
23,000
Some people enter Mercabarna every day to work and do business, including 25 persons employed solely to maintain hygiene levels.
45,000,000
In excess of kilograms of refuse is collected from Mercabarna every year.
200
Over security cameras are used within the food unit alone. On an average day, more than
14,000 vehicles enter into the Mercabarna precinct.
The Central Flower Market cost
€24,000,000 for the
purchase of land and construction. Mercabarna supplies fresh produce to over consumers.
10,000,000
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INTERVIEW 13
Zoe Queally Physiotherapist, 37, UK
I arrived in Barcelona during that boiling hot summer of 2003. I still remember trying to pretend to myself that it was easy to cope with the heat and that if I was going to stay for a bit, I’d best just get on with it. The old romantic in me enjoyed wandering the streets of the old town, shopping in the Boqueria and having a beer on pretty much every plaça possible. I practised my Spanish with market workers while shopping, by flirting with camareros and mingling with my best friend and his crowd of Barcelona friends. The city was vibrant in every way and attacked the senses from all angles…some of it not always pleasant! The physio life in London was brilliant and loaded with professional respect, but it was hard and fast and left much less time to enjoy the fun things in life. I think I always wanted to be a physiotherapist. I have always loved sport and movement. I had a pretty severe back injury related to Judo when I was about 16, so that was a good time to find out what it was all about. Technically, a physio is a neuro-musculo-skeletal specialist, which basically means we get involved in all sorts of problems relating to nerves, muscles and joints. An osteopath works more on bones and joints and
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a chiropractor tends to work on alignment. If you had an acute episode of back pain and went to any one of these, what they would do to you in the initial phase of treatment would be very similar from a patient perspective but we would all have different reasons and a different philosophy for doing it. It tends to be the follow-up care that differs. Here in Spain, physios are much less manual therapists and more technicians of electrotherapy and rehabilitation. They tend to be doctor-led rather than autonomous professionals. Those that want to get ahead need to keep learning and adding to their expertise. I teach them assessment skills and how to find the specific causes of common problems for each individual. This nitty-gritty problem-solving element is what I enjoy most. I love applying this myself to my patients and I really love it when my students can suddenly do this too. In every course, there is always a “penny drop” moment when the students suddenly get it. That’s the reason I do it. Passing 16 years of clinical knowledge on is a great thing to do. Back problems watch out…there are more and more great physios about! Sometimes, by the end of a hard physical day, I am knackered mentally and physically, so I need to be fit. My favourite
gym class is Aerobic Salsa. It’s brilliant! I get to leap around wiggling my boobs and bum and get a good dose of cardio while laughing out loud to Latin tunes. There is no place for stresses or aches and pains there. My proudest career moment was being asked to participate in the International Congress for Pilates organised by the Federación Española de Pilates last year alongside some of the top names in the Pilates industry. It was terrifying to present to so many respected professionals, yet a great opportunity for me to get the idea of “clinical Pilates” accepted. I love entertaining at home. My ideal dinner party would consist of my mum, my boyfriend Jordi, Nelson Mandela, Michael Jackson, Kate Middleton and Father Christmas. I could get a lot of questions answered that I can’t find on Wikipedia! I’d cook my mum’s creamy chicken casserole recipe—the secret is tarragon vinegar—and, of course, it would be accompanied by a good amount of Spanish red. www.fisiopluspilates.com
Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.
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14 SARDANAS
The people’s dance There is democracy and grace imbued in each step of Catalunya’s traditional dance. By Louise Johnson. Photos by Lee Woolcock.
F
orty years ago when General Franco was still in power, a young sardana dancer and her circle of fellow sardanistes (as fans of the Catalan folk dance are called) defied the dictatorship and played cat and mouse with the
spring at the Escola de Sardanes d’El Corte Inglés. The year 2012 marked their 35th anniversary and during the past three and a half decades over 20,000 children have been taught to dance the sardana. Parents of the children are welcome on the last day of class for a portes obertes, to join in and follow what the children have learned. The sardana is a distinctive, some might say quaint, sight: people in a circle holding hands, dancing with dainty steps to the sound of haunting music which floats across many of the city’s squares each Sunday. As if by telepathy, the dancers seem to know when to change steps, when to jump or stop together and shout Visca! or ‘long live Catalunya!’ Montserrat accepts that the dance is rather like Marmite. “You either love it or you hate it,” she explained. “Some people are sold on it after their first dance class and say ‘sign me up for the whole course’ while others are bored if they just do the steps rather than getting into the technical side, the counting.” Even local personalities have been divided in their opinion. Picasso described it as “a communion of souls, it abolishes all distinctions of class… the servants hand-in-hand with their masters.” Meanwhile, Salvador Dalí, always controversial, remarked: “It would suffice in itself to cover an entire region in shame and ignominy.”
While it may be true
police. “We would dance the sardana in the Plaça de Sant Jaume,” said Montserrat Muñoz Llobet. “When the police came we would run away and duck into a bar. Then, when the coast was clear, we would go back and start dancing again.” Franco banned the Catalan language and outlawed important local traditions such as the sardana, long considered a symbol of national pride and identity. Just by dancing it in one of Barcelona’s main squares, Montserrat risked being beaten up by heavy-handed police officers. Or worse. Montserrat, a professional dance teacher, first learnt the sardana forty three years ago. It started off as a hobby but she soon discovered that she had a real passion for the dance and wanted to take it seriously. As someone deeply involved in Catalan culture, she decided to focus on this patriotic dance rather than on flamenco, or another dance style. Today, she is responsible for overseeing teaching the sardana to hundreds of children who attend her free classes in Plaça Catalunya each
to say that there’s no blood on the dance
floor with the sardana,
devotees claim it offers a subtle charm when
set against more fiery dances.
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SARDANAS 15
Members of a cobla, the twelve piece band that accompanies the dance
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16 SARDANAS
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Despite his harsh words, Dalí painted himself dancing the sardana with his wife Gala, and is believed to have taught it to his intimate friend, the poet García Lorca. The origins of the sardana are unclear but the general consensus is that similar dances existed in the Mediterranean region and may have been around in ancient times. Perhaps it came from Sardinia, hence the name. Or it may possibly have started life as a quasi religious dance in worship of the sun. What is clear is that the dance as we know it today derived from Northeast Spain in the middle of the 19th century. So is it harder than it looks? There are two basic steps—els llargs, long steps and els curts or short steps. Picking up the rudiments is fairly painless—after all, young children manage it—but perfecting it takes longer. A working knowledge of the eight times table also helps in order to know when to make a change. The writer, Patricia Langdon-Davies, started dancing the sardana back in 1950, when she first came to Catalunya. Her late husband, John Langdon-Davies, wrote a book on sardanes, Dancing Catalans (1929). Patricia last danced on her 90th birthday in the summer and said, “When I was still spry enough to join in regularly, I always recovered that joy in dancing which all children have, at any rate little girls—the joining hands, jumping, moving together. As I’ve become more and more informed and part of Catalunya, I’ve recognised the uniqueness of the sardana as a living folk art. It has long been a nationalist symbol of Catalunya and it was a big part of my life with John so for me, there’s an emotional aspect.’ Watching the sardanistes in front of the gothic cathedral on Sundays
VOX POP – We asked a few young sardanistes for their views on the dance. Pau Nieto (18) sardana dancer: ‘It’s the only dance like it in the world. Everyone can do it. I hope young people continue to take an interest.’
Roger Cumill (19) sardana dancer: ‘It’s nice to spend free time with your friends and get to know Catalans, as our culture is very special.’
Marc Timon (32) composer and tible player in a cobla: ‘The sardana doesn’t mean the same to me as it does to older people. It will change and the cobla will produce a new sound, a fusion. I have strong political opinions but the sardana should be free – music is music.’
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you might be forgiven for thinking that this pastime appeals mainly to the middle-aged and elderly. Do the under-35’s see it as uncool and is there a risk the tradition could die out? “Personally, I don’t think so,” Patricia said. “There are frequent cries of ‘Is the sardana in crisis?’ but never an answer. The musicians recognise what is needed for today and there are innovations.” Nowadays, sardana music is sometimes played with an orchestra. One cobla, the sardana band, has even incorporated Shakira and The Beatles into its music, which Montserrat says has strong youth appeal. “People are open to change but if it’s too much then you lose the tradition,” said Patricia about the fine balancing act. While it may be true to say that there’s no blood on the dance floor with the sardana, devotees claim it offers a subtle charm when set against more fiery dances, like the flamenco or tango. “You can’t compare them,” stressed Montserrat. “It’s obviously not the tango but some sardanes possess a huge amount of feeling. In Franco’s time that might have been political while today it could be romantic.” It is the most democratic of dances; everyone is welcome whether young or old, rich or poor, fit or flabby, male or female, nimble or cursed with two left feet. Even tourists, provided they have the right attitude and show interest, Montserrat says. No flashy gear is needed either as it’s not a performance; participants can just turn up and dance. These days, Montserrat is free to dance the sardana whenever and wherever she likes. But the same spirit and sense of fraternity she felt all those years ago under the dictator live on.
MORE INFORMATION. The strange, reedy music that accompanies the sardana is played by an 11-member, 12-piece cobla (one member plays two instruments). When some musicians from the Netherlands visited Catalunya, they liked the sound so much that they set up their own cobla back home, the Cobla La Principal d’Amsterdam. El Corte Inglés runs the Escola de Sardanes d’El Corte Inglés for children from 6-14 years age. You can visit the children’s floor at El Corte Inglés, Plaça de Catalunya, 14, Barcelona. Or look online at: www.elcorteingles.es. Registration starts third week in February 2013. Adults interested in learning the sardana can go to: La Casa dels Entremesos, Plaça de les Beates 2 www.lacasadelsentremesos.cat For more information about the sardana visit: www.grup-maig.cat or www.fed.sardanista.cat Patricia Langdon-Davies’s book El gat, unes llavors i quinze llibres is published by the Diputatció de Girona, and is available in bookshops.
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18 Senegalese in the city
Barcelona or the hereafter They risked their lives to get here. But their long hard journey is nowhere near over. By Petra Barnby. Photos by Richard Owens.
Y
ou have seen him about. You probably walked past one of these men today. His skin is black and he walks with long elegant strides through the city. His clothes are stained and torn from reaching into bins all day but he carries himself with dignity as he pushes his trolley of junk along the street. He is from Senegal and is collecting metal because there is no other work for him. If you had spoken to him he might have told you he has dreams of saving money so that when he goes home he will have a better life. By any standards, the Senegalese trolley men of Barcelona are an impressive people with stories to tell which would leave you awestruck by their courage, ambition and resourcefulness. There are thought to be 400 of these men in Barcelona, most of whom arrived in 2006 with the 10,000 Senegalese immigrants who came to Spain that year. The mass migration was prompted by a combination of the Spanish call for workers in the construction boom and the invention of GPS which enabled the average fisherman in Senegal to ferry migrants the 1,500km to Europe. The fishermens’ lack of experience of long sea trips led to thousands drowning or starving to death when the boats capsized or the voyages took longer than provisions allowed. The EU has been running an operation since 2005 to find immigrants attempting to enter Europe and repatriate them if their country of origin can be established. But this has done little to stop the Senegalese trying their luck and has led to even more covert and dangerous journeys, such as crossings by night. The trip should take six days but can take many weeks if complications arise. It costs between €1,000-€2,000, depending on demand. The money is painstakingly raised through the sale of belongings and loans from friends and family, who stand to gain financially if the trip is successful. These men needed a good dose of luck just to get here alive, and then to find work and shelter.
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What gives them the courage to risk the dangerous and costly journey is the chance of making money with which to create a better life. Senegal currently ranks 155th out of 187 in the Human Development Index, just before Haiti. One in every two households lives on less than one dollar a day. Coming to Europe represents a route out of crippling poverty. People who collect metal from the bins are known in Spanish as chatarreros. A trolley full of metal can bring in between five and ten euros depending on what kind of metal is found—iron is the most valuable—and the men fill between three and four trollies a day. Bayemalick starts work at nine in the morning and at two he goes to a Senegalese restaurant for a lunch of rice and fish. Lunch costs him €2.50. “After that I have a good head and can start work again,” he said. It is gruelling work. It takes up to four hours of walking and lifting to fill a trolley which must then be pushed, overflowing with metal, to a depot near Estació del Nord. It is also dangerous work. But Bayemalick said the hardest thing is the dirt. “The worst thing is having dirty clothes. Everything you touch makes them dirty.” Momsaurko, 26, made the trip to Barcelona five years ago by boat. “I came here because I was looking for a life. You can earn more here. I know I am very lucky to be here,” he explains. “My mum worries about me. She tells me to take advantage of being here until it gets too hard. Now I just need a job.” If he had stayed in Senegal, Momsaurko would never have been able to save money because the culture there requires every worker to share his entire wage with his family. Coming here he has a chance of both supporting his family and saving. Now he’s waiting for the crisis to end so he can find a job. “I want to be a builder,” he says. “I have a diploma and now I am saving to get another qualification. We are intelligent and qualified people. I learned to speak Spanish and Catalan didn’t I?” But like so many unemployed people in the city, he
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Senegalese in the city 19
Encouragement by the Spanish govenment, and the dream of a better life for themselves and their families, drew these men so far from home.
is collecting metal while waiting for the crisis to end. “There used to be a lot of metal from construction but now no one is building so there is no metal to collect and no work,” Momsaurko told me. The fortunes of these men depends often on luck. The younger men are weighed down by their responsibilities to their families and often struggle to find their feet here. Mousa, 26, came here in 2008 on a boat after his father died. “I came here to earn money for my family. My mother and brothers have nothing. I am alone here. I don’t know how to get papers or who to ask for help.” His troubles are compounded by the painful memories he carries of his journey here. “People died on the boat because they didn’t have enough food and water. Now there is no work here and I experience a lot of racism. People don’t open their hearts. If it doesn’t work out for me here I will go home,” he said. Others have more success and are soon able to send significant support back to their families. According to the Senegalese government, the 650,000 Senegalese in Europe are responsible for the equivalent of ten percent of Senegal’s gross domestic product, while farming, which employs seventy percent of the Senegalese workforce only generates fifteen percent of the country’s GDP. Bayemalick, 38, came in 2006 after his wife died. For him one week’s earnings made collecting metal here is equivalent to one month’s earnings in Senegal. “With this money I pay for the education of my two children. Everyone wants their children to be better than them” he said. He believes the Senegalese trolley men here need to create their own fate. He is pragmatic in his outlook on his own situation. “Everyone is born with their own luck. When it comes, you need to take it. I’m taking advantage of every day that I am here. I could lose it all tomorrow.” Despite the language problem, Barcelona has a particular appeal
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“It is more stable here for people without papers.The police leave you alone. We don’t want problems, we just want to make clean money. I love Barcelona and I want to stay here.” >>
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20 Senegalese in the city
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to the Senegalese, they even have an expression “Barça mba Barzakh” which translates as ‘Barcelona or the Hereafter’. The attraction of Barcelona over other large Spanish cities is that immigrants are largely untouched by the authorities. Bayemalick explains, “It is more stable here for people without papers. The police leave you alone. We don’t want problems, we just want to make clean money. I love Barcelona and I want to stay here.” According to Miquel Esteve i Brignardelli who works at the Immigration Commission of the Ajuntament de Barcelona, “The national police do not arrest these men and the local police do not have the authority to arrest them. It is up to the Spanish Government to make these men, and the work they do, legal or illegal.” When it comes to immigration, the Spanish government finds itself in a difficult position. In 2006, before the economic crisis took hold, Senegalese workers had been encouraged by the Spanish government to come here and thousands of temporary work visas were issued. As well as providing Spain with a cheap workforce, this controversial move also reduced the number of dangerous boat journeys because, with papers, the immigrants could travel by plane. The result of these measures was that more people wanted to come to Spain—in the last twelve years the number of immigrants in Barcelona has risen from 53,428 to 282,178. This influx was needed in the country; until, that is, the crisis hit. The economic crisis has been as much of a game changer for the Senegalese trolley men here as it has been for everyone else. After having encouraged them to come just six years ago, the Spanish government is now pushing the Senegalese to the edge of society. Policy makers in Madrid are making it almost impossible for them to get work visas; it is now requiring that immigrants live here for three years and have a work contract before qualifying for one. In the meantime, the Senegalese trolley men are living outside the reach of the authorities. They often live in large groups in low rent housing. Having no papers incriminates those who want to employ them, even business owners who need their scrap metal taken away are breaking the law by allowing it. Without papers, these men are not qualified for basic social security, including healthcare. They must rely on charities like The Catalan Association of Senegalese Residents (CASR) which is funded by the local government and by the 400 Senegalese members who give a small monthly contribution to help members in trouble. Brignardelli said: “Imagine if you don’t have papers but you live here. You can’t do anything, you can’t get a job, a flat, healthcare. You are like a ghost in the city.” If and when the Spanish economy returns to its pre-crisis employment levels, Spain will need to once again look elsewhere for its cheap labour. No doubt, Senegal will be watching closely. For many of these Senegalese men, working as a chatarrero is an exercise in hope. Momsaurko said: “I do this to eat. All I need is a job but the Spanish will get work before us. But I believe God will give me work eventually.” Brignardelli wants the work of the chatarrero to be regulated so the authorities can help the men involved. “These men live in undignified ways. We want to regulate their work and to give them cooperative status so they can live with dignity. Their work benefits the city. The only solution is to give these people papers so they can work legally but the Spanish government has closed its eyes to the problem.” But it seems no amount of EU repatriation operations will deter the Senegalese from seeking a better life in Barcelona. Brignardelli
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hopes these men get an idea how the crisis is affecting life in the city before they leave Senegal. As he told me, “Someone from Senegal said to me if white people close the doors on them they will come in by the chimney.” Brignardelli added,“People in developing countries want to live in developed countries, they think it will be paradise but they don’t realise how many problems we have now. Every day there is less metal and more people.” In the meantime, the Catalan Association of Senegalese Residents urges people to get involved with their work helping those suffering the most. CASR manager, Ababacar Thiakh, said, “The government here needs to find solutions by listening to these people, that is where we come in. People can help us to connect with these men and to give them food, clothes and medical care etc. The situation for these people is precarious. Now is the time to act.”
MORE INFORMATION: To find out more, or offer yourself as a volunteer, call the CASR on 632.539.473 or e-mail: ababacar.thiakh@gmail.com.
About Senegal - It borders Mauritiana, Mali and Guinea in northwest Africa - Population 13 million, same as Mumbai, India - There are seven official languages spoken - It is the size of England and Scotland combined - It became independent of France in 1960 - It has 80 political parties - Islam is the predominant religion Poverty - It ranks 155 out of 187 in the Human Development Index which measures a country’s long-term progress in three basic dimensions of human development: a long and healthy life, access to knowledge and a decent standard of living - Life expectancy in 2011 was 59 years - The average number of household members is 9 - There are 10,000 Senegalese migrants in Spain
In 2006, the bodies of 1,167 drowned migrants were taken from the sea; several thousand others were deemed missing. Approximately 50% of the migrants using this route were believed to be Senegalese. Senegalese deaths at sea: approx 600 in 2006. Article statistics are from the Spanish human rights organisation Associación pro Derechos Humanos de Andalucía: www.apdha.org
12/18/12 1:53:20 PM
Your help today feeds the future of many children itment to help y e k e h is t ht future ig r b a e v them achie
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Schooling is a basic necessity for all children In Casal dels Infants we help many children and young people to overcome the disadvantages they encounter along the way, even when things seem difficult. We give support to children and their families—helping them at school to build a safe environment, boost their confidence, make friends, and find role-models—so they can have the maximum opportunities available and the support network to enable them to achieve their goals.
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12/18/12 1:04:19 PM
22 MNAC
Full disclosure A special exhibition at The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya reveals the mysteries buried beneath the elegant surfaces of various masterworks. By Jordi de Nadal
M
ireia Mestre, head of the restoration department in the Museu Nacional de Catalunya (MNAC), was talking to a rather silent press crowd—10am, no coffee offered. “All revealed,” she said, referring to The Museum Explores. Works of Art under Close Examination, the current exhibition in the ground-floor rooms (until 24th February, 2013, free admission) for which she is curator. The shows features 28 research cases in which her department has been involved, mainly regarding works from the Museum’s collections, plus a couple on loan from local museums in Barcelona, Reus and Montserrat. In an honest, frank way, it offers a rare and candid insider’s glimpse, revealing what collectors, art historians, conservators, restorers and scientists see beneath the surface of a work of art; that which is rarely seen by the rest of us. In the world of art restoration and conservation there is room for as much excitement, disappointment, surprise and anxiety as you can expect from an episode of CSI. Take for instance the case of the The Violinist (1920, cut lead, 51.3 x 31 x 22cm) by Pablo Gargallo (1881-1934). At a certain point, it started to exude unexpected rust stains and cracks from inside to out. It was only after neutron radiography, carried out in CERN’s Large Hadron Collider (built underground near Geneva), that the suspected origin of the problem was confirmed: the contact between the lead sheets and the sculpture’s wooden core produced fatal gases. But what makes the show really special is that it has a whole section devoted to the failures and shortcomings of the museum itself. From the final decades of the 18th century, fake copies of the widely appreciated Medieval enamel works from Limoges, France, have proved very lucrative. The exhibition displays three Eucharistic Pigeons in enamel that entered the museum as part of the same
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The victim: Gargali’s El Violinist. Photo courtesy of MNAC
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MNAC 23
bequest; thanks to recent analysis, they can now say that only one of them is really 13th-century Limoges. After the show, it will become part of the permanent collection, replacing one of the imposters. The exhibition is also an invitation to discover the rest of the MNAC. And this museum, unlike some of the world’s important and imposing larger museums—The National Gallery, Metropolitan, Louvre, Prado, Uffizi, Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister—well it’s just much less daunting. The MNAC has only one absolute, world famous, unavoidable masterpiece. We are talking about the Pantocrator from Sant Climent de Taüll (Room 5), the 620 x 360 x 180cm frescoes with which an anonymous genius, back in the first quarter of the 12th century, decorated the apse of a surprisingly fine church planted in Vall de Boí, a remote valley in the Pyrenees, only rediscovered in the early 20th century. In fact, it is such an extraordinary work of art, that nobody will take you for a fool if you follow these instructions to the letter: enter the Museum; go directly to room 5; walk straight ahead but keep your eyes on your feet, until you reach the opposite end of the room; then, raise your head, quite slowly, and receive the full impact of this Romanesque wonder. Keep staring at it for at least 15 minutes, while holding your breath in admiration—then take another breath, stare at it for 15 minutes longer, and go back home. For the rest, the MNAC is full of surprises. You can enjoy all of them without the pressure of the must-see, since the art in this corner of Europe called Catalunya is not the most sought after in the world; though one day, perhaps it may be. Imagine you have been bewitched by Gargallo’s Violinist: you can proceed upstairs to room 87, and pay a visit to his exquisite Large Ballerina (cut iron, 123 x 70 x 50cm, Paris, 1929), in which Gargallo uses the iron cuttings to draw mass and void, and balance and movement. A piece that makes you think, and feel the fire of creativity at the same time. On your way to this jewel, you will pass through the 19th–20th century sculpture collection, one of the most interesting sequences in the museum. Never believe those who tell you that the MNAC is basically a museum for paintings. This is a common misunderstanding caused by the fact that the most spectacular works in the MNAC are paintings. It certainly lacks the Renaissance, Mannerist, Baroque and Neoclassical masterworks that give other places everlasting fame, but some of its Medieval and Modern artworks will amaze you. If, for example, what you are really looking for is that big colonial era painting, full of drama and spirit, that celebrates a heroic endeavour on the battlefield, then head to Room 62 and see Marià Fortuny’s (1838-1874) near-to-lifesize The Battle of Tetouan (oil on canvas 300 x 972cm, Rome, 1862-64). Paintings or sculptures, you can engage with the collections in the museum by paying close attention to the kind of artwork that is in front of you. To simplify things, let’s say that in the Romanesque section, arguably the best in the museum, three types of artwork dominate: wall paintings (the largest and finest grouping of them in a museum worldwide), church sculpture (don’t miss the Batlló Majesty, wood and tempera, 156 x 119.5 x 20.5 cm, now displayed downstairs in the exhibition), and altar frontals (paintings on panel placed before the altar). The Gothic rooms are a matter of sculpture again, and contain altarpieces; you can easily follow their dramatic growth from reasonably big in the 13th century to gigantic enterprises by the mid to end of the 15th century. The areas devoted to the subsequent centuries showcase the so-called Catalan cultural decay by including fewer works from the country, in favour of a good number of quite fine examples from Spain and other parts of Europe. Then comes the 19th century, in which a reinvigorated social and artistic scene
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Inspecting the X-rays of Majesty Batlló. Photo courtesy of MNAC
produced sculpture, easel paintings, engravings, photography, and applied arts. These, plus collage, are the art forms of 1900 to 1950— works which lead us to the chronological endpoint of the museum’s collection. By looking at these works from the point of view of the art forms, you begin to get a richer insight into the subject matter and to see each piece from the artist’s point of view. Be adventurous and avoid following a chronological path from room to room; but rather find your own way by moving back and forth. In Room 32, for example, you will come across Bernat Martorell’s (c.1400 -1452) Altarpiece of Saint Vincent (c.1438-1440, tempera and gold leaf on wood, 288 x 238 x 24.5cm). In Room 34, you will find a group of bigger panels showing the same scenes by Jaume Huguet (c.1412-1492), painted between 1455-1460. At that point, go back to the earlier work, and start making comparisons. After two or three trips, you will be able to tell the subtle differences between the International Gothic style of the beginning of the 15th century and the Gothic style under the influence of the Flemish master’s realism that expanded in Europe at the end of the century. And so on. The key to the MNAC is that you can treat it as if it is your own private collection in your own private palace. Just pay the €10 entrance price—or treat yourself to the ridiculously cheap €18 annual pass, which includes all of the exhibitions—and spend your time as if you possessed a palace full of artistic treasures. Yes, there is a danger in it too. Once you are ensnared by one artwork, you find yourself helplessly pushed to answer these questions —what inspired the artist to create it, how it came to be here, and why it moves you. Fortunately, the magnificent Biblioteca General d’Art, one of the best art libraries in the country, is open to you, for free, in the mezzanine at the south side of the great oval hall.
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24 IDEAS
MAKING PLANS
A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...
Critical Episodes (1957-2011).
MACBA. Until February 17th. www.macba.cat
Picasso’s plates
Ceràmiques de Picasso: un regal de Jacqueline a Barcelona Museo Picasso, Montcada 15. Until April 1st, 2013 www.museupicasso.bcn.cat This is to remind you all that the Museu Picasso is not just for tourists. Spending a few hours perusing the permenant collection, from the master’s earliest sketches and paintings to the rooms that house Picasso’s creative fixation with Velázquez through his fascinating and various
Since the Sixties, modern art has often been associated with world crises; world crises not only affect and influence the content of art, but art itself in turn impacts on how the world perceives such crises. Indeed, art often acts as a self-reflection, criticism or an attempt to make sense of the world in which we live, particularly during or after a time of periodic crisis. Now arguably one of the most influential art galleries in Barcelona, MACBA, attempts to explore this concept in an original and exciting new series entitled Critical Episodes (1957-2011). Comprising of over 200 works by 64 artists, the collection brings together various portrayals of 'systemic crises' and spans three floors of the gallery's expansive space in the Raval. The exhibition takes the form of a sequence or journey of six episodes that are intended by the curators and artists to be read and interrelated with relative autonomy and independent interpretation. Featuring progressive and talented artists such as Antoni Tàpies, Hans Haacke and Susana Solano, the exhibition also transcends the gallery’s walls to enter the public space in the case of artist Allan Sekula’s work in Plaça dels Àngels.
interpretations of Las Meninas, makes you wonder why you don’t go more often. And now there are two more reasons to visit this beautiful palace. The first is a reexhibition of Picasso’s ceramic works, gifts to the museum by his last wife, Jacqueline Roque. The two met when Jacqueline was working in a ceramic studio in Madoura; Picasso was so inspired by Jacqueline that he persued her by painting a dove on her house and bringing her a rose each day for six months. She became his lover and his muse and they formed a relationship that lasted two decades, until his death in 1973. The pieces in this collection exemplify an area of Picasso’s work that many people are not entirely familiar with, but true to Picasso’s ingenuity, form an interesting and important part of the artist’s creative output. Not displayed in its entirety since first donated by the artist’s wife back in 1982, this collection of 41 pieces of ceramic are accompanied by lithographs and photographs from the artist’s private collection as well as a catalogue by Marilyn McCully and Michael Raebum, experts in Picasso’s ceramic works, which details each piece included in the collection.
Taller infantil de ceràmica, December 27, 28 and January 2nd, 3rd and 4th From 10.30am-1.30pm The second reason to visit the Picasso Museum this season is directed at the very young. The museum is offering a ceramics studio where children between the ages of 6 and 11 can explore Picasso’s world of ceramics by creating their own pieces. The tallers form part of the larger exhibition and allow children to discover how in the world of art, an ordinary plate can be transformed into something beautiful. Each workshop lasts an hour and a half, and Photo by Caterina Barjau
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costs €3.50 for each inspiring young art aficionado.
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IDEAS 25
Clownin’ around Cirque du Soleil: Alegría. Palau Sant Jordi, Until January 6th. www.cirquedusoleil.com The tight-walking, trapeze-swinging legendary circus group, Cirque du Soleil, will come flying into Palau Sant Jordi this month, promising a sensory delight full of adventure and fun as they present Alegría—meaning “joy” in Spanish—a baroque ode to the energy, grace and power of youth. Originally created for their tenth anniversary in 1994, Alegría is one of the most popular touring shows in Cirque du Soleil´s repertoire—it has been performed over 5,000 times and seen by over 10 million spectators in more than 65 cities around the world. Themes of the performance include power, the evolution of democracy, old age and youth, and like all Cirque du Soleil´s productions, it combines circus styles from around the world with live music and intricate costume and stage designs.
Less is more
PHANTOM: Mies as Rendered Society. Barcelona Pavilion. Until February 28th. www.miesbcn.com
For many, the Barcelona Pavilion is one of the lesser-known architectural gems in Barcelona, often overshadowed by the likes of Casa Batlló and La Pedrera in most sightseeing itineraries. Yet it reserves an irrefutable spot in the history of architecture and design. So, what is all the fuss about? Designed by German architect, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe— one of the pioneering masters of modern architecture—the Barcelona Pavilion is one of the most important icons of the Modern Movement and, indeed, twentieth century design. Known for its simple form and extravagant materials, the pavilion played an eminent role in the birth of minimalist design— in both its sleek, elegant architecture and the bespoke furniture it housed, which included the emblematic Barcelona chair. Spanish architect, Andrés Jaque, brings the pavilion’s creator back to life this month in an intervention that returns us to the inauguration of the pavilion and brings to light the previously unseen context of that moment—the matrix of people, technologies and institutions that made it possible. Mies as Rendered Society highlights the extensive social and technological framework that stems from his work, through a series of objects, elements and materials that embody the legacy of Mies.
In her place re.act.feminism #2 - a performing archive. Fundació Antoni Tàpies, until February 2013. www.fundaciotapies.org The art, intellectual stamina and effort embodied historically within the centre and fringes of the women’s movement have been adroitly archived by transcultural project re.act. feminism. Coordinators Betina Knaup and Beatrice Ellen Stammer have worked arduously to bring together hundreds of archived performances; the work constitutes the shared memory of feminist performance art by numerous artists and artistic collectives dating from the Sixties to the beginning of the Eighties, while examining some more recent works, with exhibitions, seminars and guided tours in cultural centres throughout Europe. re.act’s residency at the Fundació Antoni Tàpies is in Barcelona as part of a three-year tour of Europe. With such a wide array of solid and preeminent women in the contemplative and performance arts featured, re.act.feminism as a whole is simultaneously sentient, pert, subversive and avant-garde. Catch the following performances: π, by Itziar Okariz, which explores gender identification and the constructs of socialism through numerals, and Antonia Baehr’s Laugh, January 16th at Mercat de les Flors. On February 1st, a workshop entitled The Practice Of Thought, at Goethe-Institut Barcelona, will be conducted by contemporary art theoretician Bojana Kunst, before the project heads to Berlin.
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26 IDEAS
Up on stage
Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona Enter Shikari—Thursday 10th at Music Hall Gergiev & Prats: Tchaikovsky Festival—Friday 11th at L’Auditori Barbara Hendricks—Tuesday 15th at Palau de la Música Billy Talent—Sunday 20th at Razzmatazz Marillion—Saturday 26th at Bikini Patrick Wolf—Sunday 27th at Sala Apolo Veronica Falls (right)—Thursday 31st at Sala BeCool
Prima donnas
L’Auditori, Palau de la Música, and the Gran Teatre del Liceu. January 4th-13th. Calling all opera fanatics: L’Auditori, Palau de la Música, and the Gran Teatre del Liceu, bring the biggest divas in the world of opera to Barcelona in a series of performances by the four big voices of the moment—Cecilia Bartoli, Mariella Devia, Anna Netrebko and Elina Garancs. If you missed mezzo-soprano, Bartoli, last month, you’re still in time to catch the other three belcantistas perform. Devia stars in Il Pirata on January 4th and 7th, Netrebko (pictured above) in Iolanta on January 10th and 13th, both at the Liceu, whilst Garancs rounds off the line-up on January 11th at the Palau de la Música. Discounts are available when you purchase tickets for more than one of the performances.
Life is a Cabaret
Galactic Cabaret. El Molino, Vilà i Vilà 99. Every Saturday night, from 12-5am. www.elmolinobcn.com If you’re looking for a kind of party that hasn’t been seen before, in a city that has seen pretty much everything, Galactic Cabaret is a new concept that might just be what you’re after. At the hands of Unreal Productions, the reformed, revamped and reanimated El Molino transforms into a hedonistic and futuristic dancefloor when the clock hits midnight every Saturday night. Part live music show, part visual art extravaganza, part theatrical performance, Galactic Cabaret is a night that is all kinds of glamorous and dramatic. The Moulin Rouge-esque exterior (which dates back to 1898) provides a dramatic setting with just the right amount of kitsch to juxtapose the ultra-modern interior; one would be hardpressed to think of a more perfect space to host this futuristic and theatrical extravaganza. And after being shut for almost 15 years, it’s evident that El Molino is more than ready to take centre stage once again in the show that is Barcelona’s nightlife.
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12/19/12 12:33:06 PM
CULTURE: Mesopotamia 27
from the cradle CaixaForum brings together an exhibition that taps into the roots of the modern world with a collection of artefacts from the great civilisation of Mesopotamia. By Louise Johnson
T
he fertile land sandwiched between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers is widely considered to be where modern life began. The wheel, the city, mathematics, geometry, accounting, writing, bronze, nails, chariots, sailboats, and footwear make up a long list of things believed to have been invented by the Mesopotamians several millennia BC in the land we know today as Iraq. Sadly, Mesopotamia and its rich culture tend to get overlooked at school while lavish screen adaptations generally focus on the gripping history of the Roman Empire. This is just one reason for commending the CaixaForum’s current exhibition, Before the Deluge, Mesopotamia 3500–2100 BC. Four hundred pieces are on loan for the exhibition; contributions from museums such as the Louvre, The Metropolitan in New York, The Penn and British Museum as well as from private and corporate collections around the world have been brought together to help give us greater insight into this elusive epoch. Unfortunately, twenty or so relics from Baghdad’s damaged and looted National Museum of Iraq which were expected to arrive didn’t make it. An area of land in southern Mesopotamia called Sumer was where the Sumerian people first settled. When this kingdom fell, around 2900 BC, independent city states grew up in the region which over time were united and given a capital–Akkad, which may have stood on or near modern-day Baghdad. The Akkadian Empire lasted until 2154 BC. The flood, referred to in the exhibition’s title, may have been the natural disaster that led to the decline of Mesopotamian culture and paved the way for the rise of the Egyptians empire.
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Among my favourite artefacts were some small terracotta carts on wheels pulled by a disgruntled-looking bull, which possibly served as an early version of a Hornby train set for Sumerian children. Some of the jewellery, such as a necklace made up of black and white diamond-shaped stones, looked as if it could have graced the catwalk yesterday. The calm beauty of a quartzite head (Sulgi 2094-2047 BC or 20291982 BC) seems to remind us that even great civilisations are impermanent and that each one of us constitute a fleeting piece of a larger story. Ironically, the Iraqis can’t enjoy their own heritage as the National Museum of Iraq remains shut due to security issues. Many of its exhibits were put into storage prior to the Iran-Iraq war during the 1980s. Thus damage during the 2003 US-led invasion could have been even worse. But this is one culture that has never had an easy ride—leaving aside politics and criminality—the fragile building materials used in antiquity have also been badly affected by erosion. With luck, this beautiful exhibition will help foster a deeper understanding of this beleaguered yet fascinating area that has contributed so much to civilisation. Before the Deluge, Mesopotamia 3500 – 2100 BC CaixaForum, Avinguda de Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 6-8, 08038 www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es Until February 24th
12/19/12 12:03:00 PM
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12/18/12 1:09:45 PM
MUSIC: EL PETIT LICEU 29
Kiddy Classics
The Superbarber of Seville. Photo by Antoni Bofill
This season, why not take the whole family to the opera? By Tori Sparks
T
hings to tell your friends at the next parent-teacher meeting: “My children just loved the opera we saw at the Teatre Liceu last weekend!” And you won’t be joking. The Petit Liceu is a Barcelona-based programme that stages a season of classical ballet, theatre, and opera in a format that is geared towards educating while entertaining some of the city’s youngest population. It is a collaboration between the Liceu’s music, artistic, and production departments and the local educational services, and is one of various social programmes that were created to attract people who might not usually come to the opera under normal circumstances. Making opera interesting for children may sound like a massive undertaking but Carme Trobalon and the rest of the Liceu’s production department are more than up to the task. Carme is responsible for Education Services under the Production Department of the Teatre Liceu. The education programme has been in place since 1983, when the theatre was still a private institution. But after the theatre became publicly owned in 1997, the board of the Liceu felt that they were duty-bound to create more programmes that would serve the community. This includes programmes such as the Petit Liceu, which was launched in 2004. “It’s almost obligatory to create educational programmes for children and young people if you really want to both serve the public and get them involved with what you’re doing,” says Carme. Our goal was to get closer to the community through education. So far, it’s working. We work with the directors of individual productions to make sure that there’s a clear educational purpose, besides being entertaining, of course. We try to think about the social impact that the productions will have.” Petit Liceu puts on eight to ten productions every year. The 20122013 season includes adaptations of The Barber of Seville, William Tell, and The Musicians of Bremen. Besides the Teatre Liceu, the productions are also being performed at L’Auditori de Cornellà and the
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Teatre-Auditori de Sant Cugat. The production department usually coordinates with the artistic director or with external producers to choose which works to adapt for children. Sometimes the final production is significantly different from the original play or opera, but Carme notes that, “other times, it’s surprising how easy it is to adapt a work that’s traditionally thought of as highbrow. It’s important to keep the productions short enough to hold a child’s attention span—maybe an hour long—and we use bright colours and fun costumes, but we always make sure that we maintain high quality in terms of content and production values.” In spite of the economic crisis, the Petit Liceu still receives strong community response. This includes the current season. Families come on the weekends, and schools bring groups of students during the week. Yet, the programme has had to tighten its belt in recent years. The budget has shrunk significantly. “We have to be more specific with our goals and more selective with the projects we take on. In the past, we could afford to play around a bit more, take more risks, and put on more elaborate shows,” Carme explains. Economic concerns haven’t stopped the Petit Liceu organisers from looking to the future. Carme, her boss, her staff and the other departments are constantly creating and collaborating on new programmes for children, young people and university students. One of the newest is an outreach project that is aimed at blind children, to be launched some time in 2013. Carme says that the Teatre Liceu “plans to continue to expand the children’s productions as well as the workshops we put on; in short, to keep doing what we’re doing, to the best of our ability. Our goal is to keep an eye towards the future, and to never forget that we’re doing something important by introducing local children to the world of live theatre and of art.” For the complete schedule and ticket information, go to: www.liceubarcelona.cat.
12/18/12 2:08:04 PM
30 IDEAS: ESCAPE THE CITY
HIvern-NATION
Kick-start the New Year with a snow-capped escape from the city. By Carol Moran
T
hanks to an early cold snap, the Pyrenean ski stations kicked off the season on December 1st, and will continue until late April, giving you plenty of time to head to the mountains for some winter fun. With that in mind, and the desire to dust off those Christmas cobwebs, shed a few pounds, and take a breath of fresh, icy air to kick-start the New Year, we bring you three chilly destinations where there’s something for everyone.
Après-ski in Andorra
Nestled between the Spanish and French borders lies the tiny principality of Andorra—a land of high mountains and narrow valleys, and the best ski slopes in the Pyrenees. Andorra La Vella—the highest capital city in Europe at 1023 metres—is an ideal place to base yourself with easy access to the slopes, shops, spas, and après-ski. Although not quite the ‘Ibiza on ice’ it was once branded, Andorra has its fair share of evening entertainment to offer with a vibrant selection of bars, pubs and clubs, where you can party into the early hours, drinking dutyfree priced drinks. So, whether you’re mad about the slopes or the shops, for an alpine escape at an affordable price, get a few friends together and head to this mini-country in the mountains. Getting there • Train: Line 07 from Sants Estació to Puigcerdà, taxi transfer • Car: A2 via Cervera/Calaf or C58 via túnel del Cadí • Bus: Various companies from Barcelona Nord and El Prat Where to stay • Accommodation is plentiful, from big name chains to economic alternatives—check out www.andorra.ad • Good online voucher offers are available from time to time Eating and drinking • Bordas—traditional Andorran farmhouses converted into restaurants—are good for dining. • Borda Estevet • La Borda Pairal 1630 • Buda Club—restaurant, bar and club-in-one is a must-visit on the nightlife scene. • Sample the Andorran après-ski entertainment, from electronic dance to jazz and blues at: Ambit, Angel Blau, Bodegueta Xacal, Lupa & Art, Quasi-Que, Panamá Café, Cervesería l’Albadia, Deqluve and Festa. What to do • For the healthy (or lazy) après-ski alternative, check out the Caldea Spa—the largest spa complex in Europe • Find retail therapy in the many duty-free shops that line the streets or check out the Illa Carlemany shopping centre • Take a dog sleigh ride at Grand Valira • Keep track of what’s on at www.agenda.ad • Time your visit to coincide with music festival Snowboxx in March. www.snowboxx.com Ski resorts
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Andorra’s exquisite mountain scenery
There are two ski resorts in Andorra where you can experience firsthand the country’s real beauty—the mountainous scenery. • Grand Valira. www.grandvalira.com • Vallnord. www.vallnord.com
Romantic rendezvous on the French border
For an (almost) French kiss, base yourselves in the curiously placed town of Llívia—a droplet of Spanish soil within French territory. Charming and quiet, Llívia is located 2km from the Spanish border, where a settlement has existed since Roman times, and is conveniently situated for popular ski resorts, historic sightseeing and more. Thanks to its status as the ancient capital of the Cerdanya, this contentious exclave remained Spanish territory following the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees, after centuries of debate, and is of historical importance to the whole of Catalunya. Getting there • Car: N-154 from Puigcerdá (continuation of the N-152) • Train: As per Andorra. Own transport preferable • Bus: Alsina Graells or Alsa from Barcelona Nord to Llívia Where to stay • Hotel Esquirol • Hotel Bernat de So Eating and drinking • La formatgeria de Llívia • Can Ventura • Pizzería-Taller Fabián Martín What to do • Discover the fascinating history of this splotch of Spanish tierra with an historic walking tour • Visit the oldest pharmacy in Europe—Farmacia Esteve • Get hot and steamy at one of the many hot sulphur baths located nearby in Dorres, Llo and St Thomas. www.bains-
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IDEAS: ESCAPE THE CITY 31
de-dorres.com, www.bains-de-llo.com, www.bains-saintthomas.fr • Impress your petite amie, with a hot air balloon ride over the beautiful Cerdanya. www.globubolg.com • Visit picturesque surrounding villages, including the medieval walled town of Villefranche-de-Conflent, fortified by Vauban in the seventeenth century. Ski resorts • Puigmal is the highest (2700m) Pyrenean ski resort, with 36km of runs, including 5 green, 5 blue, 14 red, 6 black, and some magnificent views from the top. www.puigmal.fr • Font Romeu is known as the sunniest ski resort in France with over 3000 hours of sunshine per year. There are 45 pistes to choose from—9 black, 9 red, 10 blue, 15 green and 2 toboggan runs. www.font-romeu.fr
Hit the Pyrenean pistes
• •
Hotel Vall de Núria (half or full board) Self-catering apartments
Eating and drinking Dining options are also part of the hotel complex, with bar, buffet and full service restaurants to choose from. What to do • Skiing, snowboarding, sledging, archery, horse-riding, and numerous hiking trails. A range of activities for all ages. Ski stations The resort offers a total of 10 alpine ski slopes—3 green, 3 blue, 2 red and 2 black.
The sleepy, medieval French town of Villefranche-de-Conflent
Something for the whole family at Vall de Núria
For a gentle introduction to life on the slopes, treat the kids to a weekend in Vall de Núria, where the relaxed family atmosphere takes the stress out of those first shaky downward slides and the secluded location puts you at ease as they take part in an exciting range of activities. Surrounded by spectacular mountain landscape and flat glass waters, Vall de Núria is a real life Shangri-La. The complex is self-contained, offering a full range of services, from the cozy buffet restaurant, the self-service cafeteria, the shop, game room, lounge and chapel. There is no road acess into the valley making the traffic and noise of the city a distant memory. Getting there Vall de Núria is only accessible from the south via an entertaining rack railway, which adds another little adventure for the kids. It covers a distance of 12.5 km and takes you up an incline of over 1000 metres. • Train: Barcelona Sants to Ribes de Freser, then change to the rack railway. Combined tickets available. • Car: Free car parks are available at the train stations in Ribes Enllaç, Ribes-Víla and Queralbs where you then catch the rack railway into the valley. Where to stay All accommodation belongs to the resort and a range of options are available. www.valldenuria.com
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12/19/12 12:34:00 PM
32 IDEAS: GASTRONOMY
catch of the day Getting down to the basics of fresh and raw. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Richard Owens ✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED
W
hen I received notice from the Rías de Galicia that they had opened a raw bar I rubbed my wintry, bun-sticky mitts together in glee. The restaurant was something of a powerhouse when it first opened in 1986, but had become a little jaded until the sons took over a few years ago. They revamped and perhaps more crucially, teamed up with the Adrià brothers’ ever-growing empire, injecting new life into the place. Three years after the original restaurant was renovated, Rias de Galicia has sprouted a couple of babies in the shape of tapas bar Cañota (a more down-home version of Tickets) and Espai Kru, described as un mar de tapas. Located above the original restaurant, Espai Kru is a much cheaper and more informal eating experience once you can get past the slightly bonkers filosofía, which cheerfully bangs on about how two million years ago, before fire, we ate our fish raw, and how after that came marinades, dressings and seasonings and here we are today with our sashimi, ceviche and clever flavour combinations. Historically accurate maybe, but I’m not quite sure what all this is trying to say about their actual philosophy but you get the idea, it’s a fish joint with a raw bar and cocktails. Beyond the waffle it’s all drool-worthy stuff from the pristine crustacean and shellfish under glass to cooked dishes like sautéed sea cucumbers with confit potatoes and cilantro oil, chunks of lobster doused in garlic, and hake filets squiggled with squid ink and spring onions. Considering how thoroughly downtown Poble Sec is, Espai
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Kru does an admirable job of creating an uptown vibe. With its pearly grey tones and neon-orange piping lighting, it’s a bit like being inside an oyster’s disco peopled with glamorous sorts who flit about the bar looking important, air-kissing and sipping spritzs before supper and indeed, long into it. The trend of pairing half-sized cocktails with little dishes began in New York a few years ago with the opening of such iconic places as Death + Company, and while it has been less successful this side of the Atlantic, Espai Kru buzzes on booze and bonhomie. I try to imagine myself back here in January, when the decadence of December demands a lighter, brighter kind of dinner—and a mercy martini—and it makes me feel quite celebratory. And so, as I sit waiting for my friend, I find myself thinking of oysters. As long time readers know, an allergy prevents me from eating them but the raw bar tonight is stacked with bivalves and they seem to be calling my name. I urge my friend to have at least one and she obliges by choosing the most interesting sounding, a gigantic Galician mother bathed in a pool of sake and ponzu, which she described as ‘fine’. Not wildly enthusiastic praise it must be said, but then she’s a purist on these matters, and my silky scallop sashimi with a dab of erizo (sea urchin), soy sauce for salt, and delicate sprigs of purple basil for freshness was a thing of beauty. I’m still gushing about it now to anyone who will listen. Likewise about a ceviche of salmonete (red mullet), served whole like the fish you see in Tom and Jerry cartoons, but keenly spiked with citrus and spice and sliced
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IDEAS: GASTRONOMY 33
into chopstick friendly strips. A pot of mussels shows how little you need to do to make the freshest of seafood sing. These were just cooked and plump with a splash of white wine and a whiff of tarragon. Lovely. I would like to go and have a big bowl of them with chips for lunch one day, but Espai Kru doesn’t serve chips as far as I know. Odd because they do offer a posh version of chip-shop fish—in this case a basket of crunchy breaded turbot that burst open revealing juicy, flaky, snow-white flesh. It was very tasty and I’m a sucker for a dish of homemade mayo and a spice dust for dipping, but it does seem a bit of a waste of such a fancy fish. Frying is, after all, one of those miraculous culinary techniques that makes everything taste good. Still, I can think of worse ways to stay warm. Happy 2013 everyone! Here’s to a good one.
Espai Kru, Carrer Lleida 7, Poble Sec. Tel. 93 424 81 52 / 93 423 45 70. www.riasdegalicia.com. Open Tue-Sat 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30, Sun 1.30pm-4pm. Closed Monday. Approx €50 per head for several shared plates of seafood and a bottle of wine. ✪✪✪
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34 IDEAS: GASTRONOMY
quick bites Dom’s Gastronom By Tara Stevens Photos by Lee Woolcock
Dominique’s relaxed teaching style makes learning to cook seemingly complicated dishes easy and enjoyable.
B
arcelona’s gone mad for cooking classes these past few years, most of them teaching the ubiquitous gazpacho, tortilla and paella. Dom’s Gastronom is different; it’s a cute little cooking school in the hills of Valldoreix that, for the past 20 years, has been providing émigrés an edible way of integrating into the local culture. Hosted by the affable Dom, she takes students to local markets, teaches culinary vocabulary and offers a wide array of classes ranging from seasonal Catalan cuisine to kid’s classes. But it’s the fish cookery that continues to be the most popular, offering tips on buying and preparing fish and insider tips on the best local restaurants and festivals. “People get very nervous about cooking fish, so I try to show how easy it can be and pack in as much practical information as possible,” Dom tells me as we chat in the sunny, light-filled school that she’s built as an annex to her home. Although I only attend one of the four fish sessions, in the three hours I am there we cover buying and preparing bacalao (salt cod), how to make a proper allioli in a pestle and mortar—the grooves are for pouring the oil, not using as an ashtray she jokes—and how to use a picada (the nut, bread and chocolate
34. Quick bites.indd 42
thickening paste that is added to many Catalan dishes at the end of cooking). We learn that palangre is the same fish as merluza or hake, the difference being the way it was caught (palangre is with a hook), and that if you purge clams in salted water with a teaspoon of flour for a couple of hours they’ll not only release the sand, but be plumper and tastier too. We make a genuine fish stock that after just two hours of cooking is deeply flavoured, but Dom insists you should keep it going for at least four. We roll up sole fillets with smoked salmon and spinach and steam them in orange-infused butter, fry monkfish in breadcrumbs and steam clams in sake—a nod to the popularity of Catalan-Japanese fusion. The best thing about these classes though is that Dominique’s teaching style makes it all seem easy, joyful and relaxed. Above all, she makes you want to cook; and for me, there is no better way of getting to know a place.
Passeig del Roser 43, Valldoreix. Tel. 93 674 5160. www.domsgastronom.com. Four-class courses from €100.
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36 FOOD & DRINK
Food&Drink For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking
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under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40 RV Reservation Advised | NEW in food & drink this month
*READER DISCOUNT
* Discount for Metropolitan readers.
Bar Bar 68
RED ROCKET4Barri gÒtic
Located in the heart of Raval, Bar 68 has established itself as a classic cocktail joint over the last 12 years. As one of the pioneering hotspots in the area, Bar 68 combines a great atmosphere, cool urban funk and soul sounds, and tasty cocktails, to make this an ideal location for a great night out. Open everyday from 8pm until 3am.
Sant Pau 68 I Metro Liceu I Tel. 93 441 3115
NEW &D IN F
SUB ROSA BAR This cute little bar is a bundle of fun and has an energetic buzz from the mixed crowd of locals and tourists enjoying their fantastic cocktails and shots. Their fresh fruit cocktails are very potent making this a great pre-club place to hang out with friends and warm up for a big night out on the town. A visit to the bathrooms is a must!
Calle Codols 21, Ciutat Vella | Metro Drassanes | www.facebook.com/bar.redrocket Open every day 7.30pm-10pm
BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood.
Rauric 23 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm
Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com
Be cool
Rubi BAR
BeCool offers a great mix of Electronic, Indie & Rock music from Thursday to Saturday with a regular line up of live concerts by local & international artists. Main Room: Electro & Techno. Sala Redrum: Indie Electro Rock.
Mojitos €3.50 Located near the church of Santa Maria del Mar in the Born, this friendly bar has a great vibe and a fantastic playlist with prices that won’t destroy you. They serve the best mojitos in town and have a selection of fun and interesting Asian tapas. Hendricks Gin and all the rest for 5, food from 3 to 4.
Joan Llongueras 5 I Metro L5 Hospital clinic I Tel. 93 362 0413
Banys Vells 6 I Opens at 8pm
NEVERMIND4Barri gÒtic
SWEET REBEL BAR4Barri gÒtic
Nevermind is a cult place for those looking for a more alternative scene in touristy Barcelona. Mixing large amounts of grunge music, graffi tti and urban sports, they serve up amazing cocktails, special! house shots, cheap beer, Happy Hour till 10pm, free freshly-made popcorn, authentic decoration, skate videos and much more.
Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, this cool ‘beach bar’ is the place to enjoy the sweetest reggae music 365 days a year. Chill out with a beer or try a Jamaican cocktail made from natural fruits and sweet rum. Its comfortable surroundings and ambiance. make it a great place to relax. Beers 2 Cocktails 5.
Escudellers Blancs 3, 08002 | www.nevermindbcn.com | Open every day from 7pm
Ample 54 | Open every day from 7pm-3am
ANDú
MANCHESTER BAR4Barri gÒtic
Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams.
Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the Eighties and Nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar has it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music!
Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I Tel. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm -2.30am
Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 627 733 081 | www.manchesterbar.com
Barraval4Raval
SUGAR BAR
Barraval is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval where they have a fantastic terrace for you to enjoy great, seasonal Mediterranean food. On Friday and Saturday nights, they have a live DJ so you can enjoy tasty cocktails in a trendy atmosphere. Weekend menu 12.95 Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) | Liceu / Sant Antoni | T. 93 329 8277 M. 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV
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€1 beer Red Rocket was opened in 2008 and has become the €6 mixes cradle of musicians and DJs in rock scene here in Barcelona. They offer the most authentic rock sessions with top DJ’s in a friendly and authentic environment. Metropolitan readers get fantastic drink offers like 1 beers from 8pm until 10pm and 6 mixed drinks.
Tuesday Located in the back streets of Placa Reial this small special bar is renouned for its huge personality and fun vibe. offers The friendly bar staff dish out great mojitos that don’t cost a mint. Good tune selections, happy hour until 11pm and great mingling opportunities make Sugar a sweet spot. Rauric 21 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm
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FOOD & DRINK 37 Bagel BE MY BAGEL 4grÀcia Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you’ll not come away disappointed.
Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm
FABULA4 POBlE SEc
SPECIAL OFFER
Located in a trendy new area of the city, this restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine. They have a great three-course menu del día for 10.20 (and at night you can enjoy traditional Spanish dishes and half rations from la carta.) Their special ‘afterwork’ offer lets you enjoy two excellent promotions: A glass of wine together with a special Fabula toast for 4.50, and/or a glass of cava (Brut Nature) alongside a duo of salmon and anchovies for 5. They also have a private room that is available for group bookings. Parlament 1 | Metro Poble Sec | Tel. 93 292 6209 info@restaurantefabula.es www.restaurantefabula.es
Burger PIM PAM BURGER4BOrN Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.
Sabateret 4 - Bor I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am
VITALI PIZZA4 BarcElONa
SPECIAL OFFER 2x1
Gourmet pizza delivery from three locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2x1 on every Monday home delivery!
Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com
Cocktails PALAU DALMASES COCKTAIL BAR4 Barri gÒtic Located on Carrer Montcada, just by the Picasso Museum, the Dalmases Palace is one of the most notable city palaces from the 16th century. This gorgeous palace of Baroque influence is a testimony to the artistic, political and cultural life of Catalunya. With live music every day it’s the perfect place to drink a cocktail and enjoy their live flamenco, opera and jazz show starting at 9.30pm.
Montcada 20 I Tel. 93 310 0673 espaibarroc@gmail.com I Open every day from 8pm
LOS CARACOLES4 Barri gÒtic In 1835, the Bofarull family founded one of the most charismatic restaurants in the city. Over time, the restaurant was renamed in honour of one of it’s most famous dishes, Los Caracoles (snails). It has always been a hangout for famous personalities from the world of art, show business, politics, and finance attracted not only by the choice of culinary delights served, but also by the charm of its numerous little corners steeped in history! Take advantage of the good value Christmas special menus during January. Escudellers 14 I Metro Liceu I Tel. 93 301 2041 loscaracoles@loscaracoles.es I www.loscaracoles.es Kitchen open every day from 1.15pm-12am
Delivery LILIBURGER4 EiXaMPlE
FREE
You can choose from four DELIVERY types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery.
Tel. 93 458 0710 I Tue-Sun 1pm-4pm and 7pm-11pm www.liliburger.com
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38 FOOD & DRINK Japanese - Sushi
Juice bar SUSHIEXPRESS4EIXAMPLE
SANO 4grÀcia Barri gÒtic - SaNtS
If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They deliver to your home or hotel. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink.
Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli ( 3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar ( 3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50.
Consell de Cent 255, 08011 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open Mon-Sat 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm Sun12-3pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm
Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 217 8115 | Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 310 3247 | Creu Coberta 50 Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | info@sanojuice.com | www.sanojuice.com
Calle Santaló 55, 08021 Tues-Sat 9pm-3am Tel. 93 200 9293 www.sushiexpress.net
Italian TOYO - SUSHI TRAIN4grÀcia
TRATORIA 4cUitaDElla vila OliMPica
Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15.
This new stylish and sophisticated restaurant presents the best of Italian cuisine with an international touch, based on extensive experience from working in London, New York and Miami. Whether you’re looking for a place to go with friends or your date after catching a film at the nearby Yelmo Icaria, or starting your evening out at the Port Olympic with an unbeatable value meal, La Trattoria del Mare is the place to go. Avinguda d’Icària 132 | Tel. 93 221 9369 Metro Ciutadella Vila Olimpica www.trattoriadelmarebarcelona.com
Torrent del Olla 10 | Tel. 93 459 2630 www.restaurantetoyo.com Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight Closed Mon night
Thai SAKURA-YA4lES cOrtS
THAI GRACIA4grÀcia
Sakura-Ya is a serene-yet-busy little joint that combines a Japanese restaurant, bar, souvenir shop and food store. Located in L’illa shopping centre, at lunchtime it offers the very best traditional Japanese cuisine and take-away. The quality of the food is excellent, and so is the service. SakuraYa definitely lives up to its standards, so whenever you are in the mood for some shopping and good food, treat yourself to a Sakura-Ya experience.
Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 12 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.
Diagonal 557, 08029 | Metro Mª Cristina/Les Corts Tel. 93 405 2645/93 430 48 90 | Fax. 93 430 3743 Restaurant Mon-Thurs 1pm-5pm, 6pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 1pm-9.30pm Shop Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm
ICHO4lES cOrtS Icho restaurant blends authentic Japanese cooking with the best Mediterranean products. This is an unequalled, exquisite and innovative gastronomic option, totally unique in Barcelona. The tasting menu is pure gastronomy fantasy—you will delight in an emotional journey beyond your senses. This restaurant breaks the mould of the existing impressions of modern Japanese gastronomy in Spain.
Deu i Mata 69-95, 08029 | Metro Maria Cristina Tel. 93 444 3370 | reserves@ichobcnjapones.com www.ichobcnjapones.com Mon-Sat ,1.30pm-4pm and 9pm-11.30pm
Food & drink Jan 2013.indd 46
Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV
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FOOD DRINK directory online
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/food-directory
12/18/12 12:19:27 PM
FOOD & DRINK 39 Mediterranean BARNABIER4POrt OlÍMPic
JUICY JONES 4Barri gÒtic
Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. For group reservations consult their website for the complete menu.
Barcelona’s emblematic juice bar now also serves vegan breakfast that includes tortilla de patata, muesli with raw cashew yogurt, muffins, waffles, coffee and tea. Chill out in the bar for smoothies or enjoy a sandwich or a full meal in the restaurant. Three course Menú del día for only 8.50!
Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel. 93 221 0212 | www.barnabier.com
PATXOCA 4BOrN
Cardenal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-midnight
Vietnamese
This fantastic restaurant has tapas and traditional dishes that use local and seasonal produce, including vegetarian options, all prepared in a home-cooking style. Enjoy a daily menu from Monday till Saturday, and brunch on Sunday! Patxoca also has a beautiful terrace on a pedestrianised street, with a child’s play area just next door. They don’t use MSG.
Tel. 93 319 2029 | Mercaders 28 Close to Santa Caterina market Mon-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-3pm, 8pm-midnight
MAGNOLIA 4 Barri gÒtic In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract huge crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. During the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50. Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am
Vegetarian AMALTEA4EiXaMPlE E
Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun
GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN) 4Barri gÒtic
Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.
Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm
JUICY JONES – VEGAN RESTAURANT 4raval Barcelona’s best vegan restaurant , Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Three course Menú del día for only 8.50! Go Juicy! Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 Every day 12pm-5pm, 8pm-1am
Food & drink Jan 2013.indd 47
BUN BO VIÊTNAM4raval Now you can satisfy your craving for fresh and healthy Vietnamese food in the heart of the Raval. Following the success of their first restaurant next to the Gothic Cathedral, Bun Bo has recently opened a second restaurant on the other side of La Rambla where you can find all your favorite Vietnamese dishes such as prawn and mango salad, savoury pancakes, Vietnamese pork sandwich or a classic chicken or seafood curry. Try their Pho (the house specialty) a traditional soup with flat rice noodles which is jam-packed with fresh vegetables and herbs. If you´re a vegetarian you can also find tasty options like Com voi rau which is fried rice with cauliflower , broccoli , zucchini , carrot & onions under 7. Come for lunch menu. Starter, main , dessert and a drink for only 9.
Dels Angels 6, 08001 | Tel. 93 412 1890 | Fri-Sat 1pm-1am, Sun-Thurs 1pm-12am www.bunbovietnam.com
Cocktails from €3,50
LA VIETNAMITA 4grÀcia La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia, offering fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of flavour. Veggies and vegans: they have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for? Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 | www.lavietnamita.com
ADDIS ABEBA 4SaNtS This fantastic restaurant offers wholesome food served in the traditional Ethiopian way. Importing fresh ingredients and using top-quality local meat, the food is prepared with an exciting range of over 25 herbs and spices creating an incredible range of tastes and flavours. Their combination plates offer an excellent way for groups to try a variety of dishes to give you the true taste of Ethiopia. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll love the huge selection of dishes on offer too.
Vallespir 44 | Metro Sants Estacio | Tel. 93 409 4037 Mon-Fri 8pm-12am, Sat 2pm-4pm, 8pm-12am
12/18/12 12:19:33 PM
40 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
HAIRDRESSER · BEAUTY
Business directory to advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Scissors of London BritiSh hairDreSSer
tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be 20% OFF met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. having trained, taught and worked in london’s top salons including toni & guy and Vidal Sassoon. opting out of salon life, tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service around your needs. Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com www.scissorsofldn.com
*READER DISCOUNT
* Discount for Metropolitan readers.
Kinki - hairDreSSer kinki peluqueros is an 15% OFF international hairstyling group from holland with over 40 salons in their home country. they put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. if you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. english, Spanish, Dutch, german and French speaking. Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.es Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm
La Hair Boutique -
hairDreSSer
trained by toni & guy london, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak english, Spanish, French and Swedish. la hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. they are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.
Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462 www.hairboutiquebarcelona.com
BCN Cuts - BarBer ShoP Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - hairDreSSer Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. anglo-catalan anthony llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). the original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695 Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com
MP 40-45 Jan 2013.indd 44
HAIR
Directly from Boston to gràcia CUT AND comes Bcn cuts Barber HOT SHAVE Shop to offer you time to relax FOR €25 surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. Bcn cuts is a traditional barber shop in a contemporary atmosphere. you will keep coming back for the excellent service.
Gran de Gracia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
12/19/12 12:41:15 PM
VETERINARY CLINIC · LIFE COACHING · CHEMIST · DOCTORS · DENTISTS
The Vital Touch MassaGe
*READER DISCOUNT
the vital touch Massage clinic helps stressed women and men, to relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Deep tissue massage with Japanese acupressure points. - helps relieve tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. - hot stone massage also available - central Barcelona location. *10% off for Metropolitan readers. M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
Pharmacy Serra Mandri
CheMist
the helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. they also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. the pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.
Natalie Jovanic - liFe coaching are fears controlling your life? are you overwhelmed by unpleasant emotions such as sadness or shame? you can break free of this vicious circle. contact me today and i will accompany you on your journey to help you find the freedom and empowerment to live your authentic life. you will feel happier and energized with more self-esteem. i offer coaching for individuals and relationship coaching.
M. 693 236 929 nataliej@jovanic-coaching.com www.jovanic-coaching.com
Dr. Steven Joseph - Doctor established in 2005, googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. Uk doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the english-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. his practice includes mental health.
Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm
Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 stevedoc1965@gmail.com www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat
Mary D. McCarthy - Doctor
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -
feel confident with dr. Mary McCarthy, an american-trained doctor for adults. a native english speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the american college of physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the american Board of internal Medicine.
DentiSt
Sanz Pancko Dental clinic in Barcelona provides excellent oral care in an english speaking environment. Dr. nancy Pancko, an american dentist trained at columbia University in new York, is a board-certified orthodontist. Dr. Javier Sanz is an american boardcertified periodontist and implantologist that lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care.
Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia
Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm
Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DentiSt
Clínica Caballero Friedlander - DentiSt
highly recommended among the international SPECIAL OFFER community, they use the latest in dental technology like digital prosthetics and orthodontics. the whole german team is english speaking and the doctor has an american training in implantology and orthodontics. check-ups and X-rays are free. centrally located.
if you’ve always wanted to have a beautiful smile, but don’t want to wear visible metal braces, they have the solution for you. they’ll be pleased to help by creating an ideal treatment concept for you using incognito® invisible lingual braces or invisalign® clear braces. call them for a free evaluation visit:
Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629 info@deutsche-zk.com
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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 41
Puigmarti 33, Local 2 T. 93 237 0287 info@clinicacf.com www.ortodoncia-barcelona.com www.clinicacf.com
12/19/12 12:41:18 PM
42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
DENTISTS · ACUPUNCTURE · HERBAL PRODUCTS · OSTEOPATH · NUTRITIONIST · PSYCHOTHERAPY
Dra. Susana Campi - DentiSt For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in english, german, French, italian, Spanish and catalan.
Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 www.clinicadentalcampi.com/ susanacampi1980@gmail.com
InnOrbit - herBal ProDUctS their infusions taste delicious and complement a healthy lifestyle. they have created four blends using 100 percent naturally-grown herbs and spices. the recipes are based on ayurvedic medicine and endorsed by modern science. UP&go: ideal for sport and exercise. yoUng&FUn: enhances memory and promotes concentration. CaLM&reLaX: relieves stress. sLiM&fit: helps to maintain a healthy weight.
Tingsvall & McCarthy -
DentiSt & Dental hygieniSt this eco-friendly clinic promotes great patient care using natural products. the Swedish-trained dentist Dr. Stefan tingsvall is on hand to provide a very caring way of treating people—he solves the problem and gets the job done. Qualified Usa-trained dental hygienist elena McCarthy provides education on preventive care using effective herbal rinses and essential oils. She also offers the leading teeth whitening treatment ‘Brite Smile’. Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 tingsvall.mccarthy@gmail.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com
Tania Spearman -
acUPUnctUre
€15 OFF
Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to fertility and more. call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. tania is a Uk university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. english, Spanish and german spoken.
T. 93 814 0287 andy@innorbit.com www.innorbit.com
Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com
Jonathan Lane Hooker -
Nick Cross - PSychologiSt /
Jonathan hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. an english-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.
nick cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.
PSychotheraPiSt
T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com
Hestia - PSychotheraPy
PSychotheraPiSt
M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es
Find everything you need here!
the hestia international centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. the professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, nlP and eMdr. they speak english, spanish, French, italian, Dutch, german, portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.
Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es
MP 40-45 Jan 2013.indd 44
In our online directory of English-speaking businesses in Barcelona www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory
12/19/12 12:41:22 PM
PSYCHOTHERAPY · MIDWIFE · LASER TREATMENT · COOKING CLASSES · INTERIOR DESIGN
Eugenia Espinosa -
BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43
Paloma Azpilicueta -
PSYCHOTHERAPY
Psychotherapist
Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.
English-speaking clinical psychologist and psychotherapist. Forty years of professional experience with adults, children and adolescents. She has worked in both the public and private sectors in mental health as well as in education and social issues. Psychodynamic orientation.
M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com
Barcelona: T. 93 415 6646 Mataro: T. 93 799 6596 solazpi@ya.com www.centrepsicologiamataro.com
Krishinda Powers Duff
Clustermedica Laser treatment
Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation service. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.
The B-Cure laser provides relief and treatment for a wide range of orthopedic problems in the neck, back and joints that generally result from bad posture, excessive use of a computer keyboard or sports injuries. Now you can stop pain and heal the source with just a six-minute treatment, twice a day. It’s ready to use anywhere, lightweight and rechargeable. If you’re suffering from this type of injury, then call now or visit their website for more information.
Bsc Hons - Midwife
M. 665 143 437
Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar
T. 90 210 6989 Vidal i Guash 13 clustermedica@clustermedica.com www.clustermedica.com
Barcelona Cooking -
Bcn Windowshome improvements
If you always wanted to learn to cook classic Spanish gastronomy, Barcelona Cooking offers halfday courses in a fun and relaxed atmosphere. Their chef takes you shopping for fresh ingredients at the Boqueria Market. Then you prepare a four course menu, including several appetizers, a main dish and a dessert, while enjoying fantastic Rioja and Albariño wines. Classes are taught in English and are designed for every skill level. Learn recipes for our most traditional dishes!
If your flat is noisy or you suffer from cold drafts then BCN windows can help. They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system is both cost effective and attractive. Have a look at their web site for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote “Metropolitan” for a free quote.
La Rambla 58, principal 2 T. 93 119 1986 emma@barcelonacooking.net www.barcelonacooking.net
M. 619 908 642 www.barcelonaflat.co.uk
Terraza Barcelona -
Graham Collins -
Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 krishinda@gmail.com
cooking classes
CaRpentry
Dirk has a passion for creating affordable carpentry designs for both interior and exterior spaces. From terrace decks to planters, pergolas to storage sheds, he will impress you with the quality of his work. Wooden furniture for: garden, terrace, balcony, living, bedroom, bathroom, office - you name it, he makes it! Everything is custom made - choose from one of his designs or bring your own ideas. Please contact Dirk for an obligation-free quotation. M. 657 452 279 info@terrazabarcelona.es www.terrazabarcelona.es
MP 40-45 Jan 2013.indd 45
Interior Design
Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.
Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) M. 678 757 511 grahamcollinsbcn@gmail.com www.grahamcollinsbcn.com
12/19/12 12:41:25 PM
44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
PROPERTY · REMOVALS · LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
Lugaris - ProPerty
Aspasios Rentals & Services - ProPerty
the best option to live and work in Barcelona. Brand new, modern furnished and bright apartments. in Poblenou, a few metres from Bogatell beach and very close to the 22@ district. Privileged services such as swimming pool, parking, security, cleaning and free Wi-Fi, to make your stay more confortable. Use this promotional code to get 10% off your next booking. Code: 20CM12
Staying at aspasios in Barcelona and Madrid is the perfect way to enjoy Spain. Feel at home in a new city while staying in a luxurious furnished apartment. aspasios provides accommodation for days, months or years. they offer check-in at any time and day of the year as well as a 24hr phone service. aspasios has multicultural staff willing to welcome you in different languages.
Vidal y Valenciano, 14 T. 93 221 9159 info@lugaris.com www.lugaris.com
Adriana Romero T. 93 304 1448 info@aspasios.com www.aspasios.com
Spaces for rent - ProPerty
Van BCN - reMovaLs
hotel onix offer a range of rooms and spaces for rent at a low price. Perfect for a variety of classes and events like yoga, theatre, dancing, business meetings, seminars and rehearsals. they have different sized rooms at liceu, Plaça catalunya and Plaça espanya that are both clean and comfortable with central heating, a/c, tables and chairs to suit your needs. you can rent their space by the hour, half or full day, weeks or months. For more information please call Jubran.
VanBcn offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBcn adapts its service to your needs. they can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from ikea or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBcn. they know how to do it. T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344 www.vanbcn.com
T. 93 303 4154 events@hotelsonix.com
Benjamin Franklin -
international School the Benjamin Franklin international School in Barcelona offers a differentiated american curriculum from nursery to grade 12, which includes english language preparation for college education, foreign language programs and learning support. it is fully accredited with strong academic programs, such as the american high School Diploma, spanish Baccalaureate Certificate and the iB Diploma. it also has an active parent-teacher association and a welcoming global community. Martorell i Peña 9 T. 93 434 2380 F. 93 417 3633 www.bfischool.org
Spanish for foreigners
langUage School
5% OFF
the experienced teachers at Versión original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. this small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. there’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.
Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576 info@versionoriginalbcn.com www.versionoriginalbcn.com
BCN L.I.P. langUage School
One-to-One -
Bcn l.i.P. languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. they offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. the centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.
learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. get confident in spanish with pilar.
T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
MP 40-45 Jan 2013.indd 46
Versión Original -
SPaniSh claSSeS
M. 610 057 266
12/19/12 12:41:28 PM
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS · COMPUTERS · TOYSHOP · GRAPHIC DESIGN · SAILING COURSES
BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45
Idiomplus - langUage School for CoMpanies
BCN Metropol langUage School
idiomplus is a language school which provides in-company courses that is distinguished for its innovative learning method. learn a new language at the same time you make a more advanced use of social media.
Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. the school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. it’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels.
learn languages with a plus with idiomplus!
T. 93 445 1791 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 583 5ª www.Idiomplus.com info@idiomplus.com
T. 93 301 8241 Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) www.bcnmetropol.com
Geo Mac - CoMpUters
Bateau Lune - toyShoP
George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. among the services he offers, george can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and aDSl setup. he can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
Bateau lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and christmas gifts. check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in gràcia! T. 93 218 6907 Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 info@bateaulune.com www.bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
Mrs.Q design studio - graPhic DeSign
MT Sailing - Sailing coUrSeS
Mrs.Q design studio offers a range of specialised services from 10% OFF branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. they specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. they are now offering wedding stationary packages. at Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. they will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. they are now offering 10% off their branding packages.
rya Sailing and powerboat courses. always wanted to get on the water, but didn’t know how? now you can! Mt sailing is an rYa training centre right here in Barcelona, offering theory and practical courses at all levels from Start yachting or Powerboat all the way to professional yachtmaster ocean. internationally recognized qualifications are taught and examined in english. during classes, support is available in spanish. their flexible course schedules include intensive, weekend and evenings. to discuss your sailing ambitions, call Michael 695 806 029. start your adventure today!
M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com
M. 695 806 029/653 616 727 sail@mtf.com www.mtf.com.
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12/19/12 12:41:31 PM
46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY
TELEVISION SERVICE · TAX AND ACCOUNTING
BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE
Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE
BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.
NEW! NEW! NEW! Not allowed a satellite dish? Now we can supply all your favourite uk tv channels including all sports and films over the internet. No dish needed! Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability. For a personal, efficient and friendly service call the specialists. Our professional team provides satellite television from across Europe at unbeatable prices!
M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com
T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net
Spain Accounting -
Tax AND Accounting services
Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service
Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com
Europa Digital - TELEVISION SERVICE
Brumwell Brokers -
INSURANCE AND TAX SERVICES
Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured.
They not only care about your wellbeing, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you with all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Brumwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos).
Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T. 93 894 72 99 www.europadigital.tv admin@europadigital.tv
Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811
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12/19/12 12:09:55 PM
INSURANCE · LEGAL PRACTICE · BUSINESS COACHING · SERVICE · FINANCIAL ADVICE
Cogesa - INSURANCE
BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47
Continental Wealth Management -
Don’t wait until it’s too late! Do you feel secure in Barcelona? Are you still insured in your home country? Do you travel? Spanish not fluent yet? Do you want to feel safe and carefree in Barcelona no matter what? Cogesa makes sure to find you personalized and price worthy insurance solutions for your every need. They also speak Dutch, Swedish, Finnish, German and French.
WEALTH MANAGEMENT
The group has over 30 years’ experience of giving professional, customtailored financial advice to expatriates on a global basis. They handle all aspects of wealth management, including investment portfolios, QROPS pension transfers and insurance. Their team of advisors can provide a no-obligation review to assess your circumstances and help you to make the right choices for a secure and profitable future.
Diputació 262 T. 93 342 4896 foreignresidents@cogesa.es www.cogesaforeignresidents.es
Av. Del Pla, 128 2 - 202 03730 Javea Alicante T. 96 646 2875 M. 665 362 944 www.continentalwealth.com
Sánchez Molina -
Green Bean Coaching -
The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
Green Bean coaches small and medium-sized business owners and entrepreneurs proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits and hit their company goals. They will coach you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level.
LEGAL PRACTICE
BUSINESS Coaching
Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
T. 93 112 6757 M. 693 940 701 explore@freegreenbeans.com www.freegreenbeans.com
Barcelona’s Guest -
FREE REVIEW
PERSONAL ASSISTANTS
This company provides assistants who can help you with daily tasks and provide language support if you are not confident speaking Spanish. You can delegate your chores, however large or small, to their staff with total confidence, giving you complete confidence and peace of mind about the organisation of all your appointments and events. They have impeccable references from their clients. Contact them today to discuss your requirements. Ganduxer nº14, Desp 9 08021 T. 93 539 6106 M. 666 816 168 christian@barcelonasguest.es www.barcelonasguest.es
The Spectrum IFA Group - INDEPENDENT FINANCIAL ADVICE Providing advice to the English Speaking International Community. Our team is here to help with: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management Why call us for advice? We are independent, regulated, qualified and very experienced, with offices in 6 European countries. Through our unique client centred approach, we will work together to build a strong, ongoing relationship that you can depend on for support and advice whenever you need it. Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A, 08008 T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com www.spectrum-ifa.com
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Entity Data Protection SERVICE
Failing to take the correct precautions with data protection in Spain, can lead to the government placing sanctions on you, as a sole-trader, or your company. EDP is a firm based in Barcelona that provides services to ensure you comply with the data protection law. Don’t take the risk – give EDP a call today to see if you’re covered and get a free quote!
Av. Josep Tarradellas 134, 08029 T. 93 545 9235 M. 617 041 260 info@entitydataprotection.com www.entitydataprotection.com
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48 EMPLOYMENT
Job directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona
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50 BACK PAGE
The Resolution Will Not Be Digitised
I
f the end of the world has happened, now would be a good time to apologise to those canny Mayans for doubting their calendar. If it hasn’t, January is generally considered a good time to plan for the year ahead. Actually, it’s the very worst time. If you made any New Year’s Resolutions, by the time you read this the chances are you will have abandoned them. No matter that you swore to pursue them with all the tenacity of that boring (but meticulous) bloke from accounts chasing the new intern, the black or white nature of resolutions means they usually collapse more quickly than a venison soufflé. With a little rebranding and a change of emphasis, though, they needn’t fail. Then you too could be saying hello to a more prosperous 2013. First of all, this whole New Year thing has to go. Party season is never a good time to take stock. It comes and goes in a haze of cava, grape pips and regret. By the time you know where you are, it’s already time to loosen your belt for Twelfth Night. Hopeless for giving up
drinking, smoking or even texting. Certainly not enough time for learning a language, renewing your gym membership or improving yourself in any way beyond perhaps ironing a shirt and putting your spice rack in geographical order. Even the concept of a resolution feels anachronistic, if not actually suspect. It sounds like something doughty Victorians invented for the moral betterment of fallen women and denizens of the workhouse. This is the twenty-first century. People don’t resolve these days, they acquire, outsource and digitise. At the very least, they diarise. So out go New Year’s Resolutions. In come January Apps. Just download them onto your device of choice and let technology do the rest. With January Apps, you simply input whatever pathetic gesture you’ve made towards the successful completion of your chosen selfimprovement and let the App calculate your score, your success percentage and your ranking against a community of similar non-resolvers. So you get the warm glow of achievement
without the tedious sweat of effort. Better still, as you have now outsourced responsibility to technology, you can lie. Your smartphone will never know, and neither will other members of the community. After all, you lie to yourself the whole time, especially when it comes to resolutions. You’ve given up smoking, so that sneaky fag you were persuaded to smoke late one night after a few drinks doesn’t count; you’ve resolved to get fit, so the gym membership you signed up for means you’ve virtually achieved it; and this is the year you finally write your novel, so once you’ve outlined the plot on Twitter you can focus on the more important task of polishing your acceptance speech. The single defining characteristic of resolutions is that they always fail. Ask the U.N. The result is regret, disappointment and self-loathing. By resolving not to resolve, you’re already on the way to a more prosperous New Year. January Apps will make you ‘appy’, if not happy. Have a good one! --Roger de Flower
HOROSCOPE Aries You want to make some big changes at work, but keep calm and think about what’s best for your future before making any rash decisions. Some good financial news will be coming your way soon.
Taurus A loved one helps you
Gemini Your ability to think on your feet will come in handy this month. Work will keep you busy during the beginning of the month, so you’ll need to focus on the task at hand. Your efforts won’t go unnoticed.
Cancer A family situation will put you to the test this month. Keep your sense of humour and don’t let your emotions get the best of you. Now is a good time to do some major decluttering.
Leo You start the year with lots of energy but take some time to prioritise your projects before rushing in. Make sure that you’re eating well, getting exercise and looking after yourself.
Virgo Your organisation and
Libra Your ability to be a good listener will be needed this month as a close friend goes through a rough time. Work could feel a bit flat but things will get moving soon, so enjoy this lull as best you can.
Scorpio Your determination gets you noticed in the workplace and the time and effort you put in finally gets some recognition. Don’t be shy when it comes to romance this month. Let your feelings be known.
Sagittarius Your happy nature
Capricorn An opportunity
Aquarius Keep positive and you’ll plain sail through this month, earning lots of kudos on the way. Friends and colleagues will seek out your company and it’s time to take the next step in a relationship.
Pisces Don’t let feelings of selfdoubt stop you from achieving success. Now’s the time to start a project that you’ve been mulling over for a long time. Take a realistic look at finances for the year ahead.
perfectionism serve you well this month and will pull you through a tough challenge with flying colours and a lot of praise. Watch out for communication issues in a close relationship.
comes up to get ahead at work and you’re up to the challenge. Some chance events lead to some new friendships and open your eyes to some alternative paths that you could pursue.
By Ben Rowdon
scoop
will be challenged this month as some stressful issues arise. Take it one step at a time and you’ll get it all sorted. Make sure you carve out some time just for yourself.
see your goals more clearly. So, now it’s time to go out and make things happen. Some issues you face may be very challenging, but you’ll soon see that you’re more than capable of dealing with them.
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