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Your Winter Guide to Barcelona
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ds Winter 2013.indd 12
Photo courtesy of Joan Sánchez Urbano, El País
It’s not just where you’re headed. It’s how you get there.
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ds Winter 2013.indd 13
Photo by Mathieu Fadelli Carrer Doctor Aigüader 9-11 · Plaça del Mar 1-4 Passeig de Lluís Companys 12 · Carrer L’Almirall Cervera 1
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contents 6
What’s new
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City season
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A day in the city
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Food & Drink
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Culture
_Music
_Festivals
_Art
_Festes & Traditions
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Maps
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Metro map
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Need to know
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Little Black Book
Cover photo by Michaela Xydi
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Ciutat 7 2-4, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 Enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com 50,000 copies of this guide are distributed every quarter in Barcelona's four- and five-star hotels.
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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new in town
Gou
Inspired brew
Grey Street and Satan’s Coffee Corner in the Raval bring a unique fusion of art, second-hand clothing, eclectic gift items and take away coffee. You’re sure to be tempted to come back for more. Grey Street Boutique/Satan’s Coffee Corner. Store hours 10am9pm and coffee shop 10am-6pm. Peu de la Creu, 25.
Settl fort enjoy city’s iPad as. Th men starr Gaig eater at €9 www
Electric dreams
Our daily bread
Out shopping and looking for a healthy meal? Le Pain Quotiden offers a full organic menu, from soup to main meals and desserts, served in a beautiful and relaxed atmosphere, just steps away from Passeig de Gràcia. Le Pain Quotidien. Provença 300. www.lepainquotidien.es
Explore Barcelona in one of GoCars new Renault Twizys. These small electric cars offer built-in talking guides and are a safe and fun alternative for intrepid visitors who want to see the city on their own terms. www.gocarbarcelona.com
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rion tic u’re or s
Gourmet Bus
Settle down into the comfort of the Gourmet Bus and enjoy a two-hour tour of the city’s sights, complete with iPads and in-bus cameras. Then, tuck into a tasting menu created by Michelinstarred Catalan chef, Carles Gaig of the popular Catalan eatery Fonda Gaig. Priced at €95. www.gourmetbus.com
Peu
ys. er are a nsee
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Shop & Drop
Where to rest your weary feet after an afternoon’s shopping in the Maremagnum centre? At newly-opened Alegra Barcelona you can enjoy a cocktail in their sleek indoor bar or on their terrace with panoramic views of the city. And if all that shopping has whetted your appetite, the restaurant serves traditional Mediterranean cuisine. www.alegrabarcelona.com
Dónde? On? Where? Find the location of these places with our maps on pages 40-44.
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city season
Season of Light The dark days of winter are Barcelona’s best kept secret. By Lynn Baiori.
M
y mother-in-law often complains about winters in Barcelona. Too dark, too cold. Of course, in summer it’s too hot, but I don’t bother to get into that with her. I agree, the nights are long and the coat might need to come out of the mothballs. But winters in Barcelona are balmy compared to Minneapolis or Minsk. If you’re here during the Christmas season the darkness makes for a beautiful backdrop to the lights that line the main thoroughfares of the city. Stores are starting to embrace a more pragmatic strategy by offering discounts when shoppers are more likely to spend
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money, in December. If you stroll along the magnificent Passeig de Gràcia, you might catch a bargain while admiring the architecture under luminous ornaments shaped like crystal chandeliers. One street over, on the Rambla de Catalunya, relax at an outdoor terrace warmed by large, glowing space heaters while enjoying wine and tapas.This is something you won’t likely be doing in Flensburg this time of year. The streets between these two boulevards house tempting places to stop for a hot coffee and a nice pastry. Getting away from the centre, I particularly like the neighbourhood of
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Photo by Markus Kreutzer
Gràcia. Once a town in its own right, it maintains its unique character and traditions. Many visitors zip past Gràcia on their way to the Parc Güell, but then they are missing one of the most emblematic areas of the city. Gràcia has a slightly bohemian feel; yet it’s also a place where the elderly and the young play a central part in the community, where families gather in one of its many plazas in the afternoons and weekends, and it is home to a vibrant Catalan Gypsy community. Back down to the centre of town, and the beauty of winter in Barcelona. La Rambla feels slightly less grit-
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ty and chaotic than it does during the more sweaty and casual mid-summer months. Nativity scenes are arranged for viewings in many of the churches. The Fira de Santa Llúcia—the yearly Christmas market in front of the cathedral—is an exciting place to wander, provided you get there early and try to avoid the Saturday afternoon crowds. Midnight mass on Christmas Eve is worth attending at the Cathedral and Santa Maria del Mar; in Iberian style, it is more a festival than a sombre reminder of the holiday. If you’re fortunate enough to be here on January 5th—and especial9
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city season ly if you’re here with young children— follow the Cavalcada dels Reis, when the three kings make their arrival at the port and continue with a huge and magnificent procession through town. Unlike the rest of Spain, Catalans spend December 24th quietly at home. Tradition includes gathering around Caga Tió, a log with a painted face and legs, wearing a barretina, a traditional red cap. During the month of December, children ‘feed’ the Caga Tió and on the 24th they beat him with a stick and sing a tune, asking him to excrete candy and presents from his bottom. Look for the Caga Tió at the Christmas market; as well as the Caganer, a small squatting figure who sits outside the manger releasing his bowels. Both are integral parts of the Catalan holiday tradition and can be better appreciated when understood as a way to unify the divine and the mundane, possibly as close as you get to Taoist philosophy in everyday Christian thinking. Catalan tradition sees the family come together on the 25th for a full day of feasting. I didn’t know it was possible to stuff that much protein into a human stomach until I spent my first Christmas with my husband’s family. It began with a light plate of prawns showered in lemon and was followed by three hours consuming unimaginable kilos of meat and Escudella (a chicken broth with large meatballs, somewhat
reminiscent of Matzah ball soup). Then came the dessert. It was like digesting a bowling ball while sampling eleven varieties of turró, a rich assortment of chocolate and nugget candies. The following day, Sant Esteve, the meal continued, with more protein and Canellons (exactly reminiscent of Canelloni). If you like shopping, Barcelona is the place to be in January. Sales often start slowly, with shops offering a modest 10 percent off. But like a desperate lover, by February, they are practically giving away the remains with discounts as high as 70 percent. Treat yourself to a hand-crafted pair of Spanish leather shoes, and maybe a nice bag to match. February, when everyone back home is hiding in their houses or trying to shovel their way out, the local folk are preparing for Carnival. You’ll want to go to Sitges, just a short train ride away and worth visiting for its charm, as well as its gay pride. Never a sleepy beach town, not even in winter, Sitges hosts a large, loud and flamboyant Carnival celebration, with parades for children and adults, bonhomie and, of course, the Carnival King and Queen. My mother-in-law would agree, there’s no better place to be in winter. Lynn Baiori is the senior editor of Barcelona Metropolitan, the city’s magazine in English.
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Weave in and out of Ciutat Vella’s dense urban fabric and discover some of the lesserknown spots in the old town. 6
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Photos by Markus Kreutzer and Carol Moran
A DAY IN THE CITY
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10:00 Kickstart the day with a traditional Barcelona breakfast at Granja Viader (1). Next door you’ll find the 17th-century Església de Betlem— pop inside during December and early January, to pay homage to the beautiful nativity scene sequence (2). 11:00 Stroll through La Boqueria mar-
ket, and if you’re thinking about a second breakfast, stop for a bite to eat at one of the many eateries dotted about the market (3).
12.00 For a slice of serenity, visit the
National Library of Catalunya, located in the converted Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu (Hospital, 56). Wander through to the beautiful courtyard, where you can pause amidst the orange grove, or take a peek inside the gothic-vaulted reading rooms. (4).
Photos by Markus Kreutzer and Carol Moran
12.30 Next, take a tour of Palau Güell (Nou de la Rambla, 3)—one of Gaudí’s
early creations. Although more toned down than the architect’s later work, you’ll notice familiar traces of his trademark style and flamboyance as you gaze up the façade, which terminates in a colourful display of roof tiles and fruit-laden chimney pots. (5).
14:00 Time for lunch? For fancy dining room décor, check out Fonda España (Sant Pau 9-11, lunch €30). If you’ve got a taste for tapas you could try Cañete Bar (Unió, 17) or for something more economical, La Perla de Oro (Unió, 34), offers a casual sandwich seated around old, dusty barrels. (6).
The numbers in pink refer to location points on the map on page 14-15.
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15:30 Once fed and watered, emerge
from the forgotten corners of Raval onto the hustle and bustle of La Rambla, and wander slowly up the famous thoroughfare. Dive into the heart of the Gothic quarter, and visit the cluster of pretty little plazas surrounding the gothic church of Santa María del Pi, where you can find food and art markets at the weekend. (7)
16:30 Get lost in the old Jewish Call and discover the centuries-old Great Synagogue (8). Next, make your way to the beautiful, Plaça de Felipe Neri (9), then break out of the tight-knit streetscape into the open-ended Plaça Nova, where you can marvel at Barcelona’s Cathedral, and, until December 23rd, wander the annual Christmas market. (10)
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18:00 Travel back in time in the atmospheric Plaça del Rei (11), where you can visit Roman ruins and Royal rooms in the excellent Museu d’ Història de Barcelona (MUHBA). 19:30 Finally, make you way to the glorious gothic structure of Santa María del Mar—easily the most beautiful church in Barcelona with its fine proportions and dramatic barestoned volumes. Another lively plaza awaits outside—check out La Vinya del Senyor (Plaça Santa María, 5) for a drop of wine and a good spot for people-watching. (12).
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21:00 For a bite to eat, drinks, and dancing, you’re in the right part of town! Try tapas and cava at El Xampanyet (Montcada, 22) or Taller de Tapas (Argenteria, 51). For traditional Catalan cuisine, check out Senyor Parellada (Argenteria, 37) or Nou Cellar (Princesa, 16), and for late night drinks check out the lively Passeig del Born. (13 (13))
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Photo by Richard Owens
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food & drink
by Tara Stevens, the food expert for Barcelona Metropolitan. She reviews restaurants, writes about local gastronomy and blogs about all things gourmet. For more Barcelona food tips, follow her on Twitter: @taralstevens
Reviewed: Somodó
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don’t know how chef Shojiro does it. Not only does he make all this marvellous food, but he also manages to serve most of it personally. The food is great, at times sensational, offering a different menu for lunch and dinner. We journeyed from Catalunya to Japan and back again with a trio of autumnal dishes. Japan emerged in the shape of a slab of beautifully grilled sea bream that seemed to levitate on top of a frothy miso soup (don’t ask me how he did that). Back in the autumn woodlands of Catalunya the pinkly tender breast and thighs of a wood pigeon perched on a lightly caramelised chunk of duck
foie (liver). All in all, Somodó’s great appeal lays in offering staunchly seasonal food that showcases the best of Catalunya, cleverly combined with techniques and ingredients from Shojiro’s homeland Japan. He seems to delight in the journey, and that makes it all the more exciting for the diner. Especially when his prices are such that you’ll keep coming back for more.
Read Tara’s full review at: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/ somodó Somodó, Ros de Olano 11, Gracìa Tel. 93 415 6548 www.somodo.es 17
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Tried & Tested
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f you’re interested in honing your culinary skills while in Barcelona, there are plenty of gastro classes available in the city. Here are our pick of the best: 4 Capellans: The 4 Capellans restaurant, part of the Hotel Barcelona Catedral, holds cooking classes on the first Wednesday of every month for groups of up to 15 people. They’ll help you prepare an easy and impressive menu for your next dinner party. Prices are €50 per person and the classes are two and a half hours long. www.barcelonacatedral.com Cook & Taste: Half-day cooking workshops are Cook & Taste’s speciality. Hands-on workshops for small groups of participants explore local, seasonal food with the
expert help of experienced chefs. Classes cost €65 per person while an optional tour of La Boquería market is an extra €13. www.cookandtaste.net Matamala: This restaurant offers cooking workshops and tastings specifically tailored to you. The Matamala sommeliers will guide you through a bespoke menu and help you make the most of a customised culinary experience. All you have to do is let them know when you want to go and how many will take part. Prices are available upon consultation. www.matamalarestaurant.com
Read the full blog at www.barcelonametropolitan.com/tried&tested
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South American way: Tanta
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anta is the latest venture of Gastón Acurio, the wunderkind of modern Peruvian cooking. In his native South America, Acurio’s restaurant empire covers everything from ceviche, to street food, to the new wave. Here in Barcelona, he’s squeezed a little bit of everything into a space described as a ‘Peruvian bistro’, though honestly, that’s not the word I’d use to describe it. There is a swanky bar at the entrance serving excellent Pisco Sours (€7 for a small, €11 for a large) that reaches back into a sleek dining room; all slate-grey wall panels, wine-coloured concrete floors and a lushly planted terrace. It’s trendy in that imper-
Photo by Richard Owens
sonal, minimalist kind of a way. The great thing about Peruvian cooking is that it has a wanton disregard for food snobbery. So while there are plenty of foodiepleasing obscure potato and tuber varieties, unheard of chilli peppers, and a profusion of fish and seafood, it also embraces condensed milk, Thousand Island dressing and mayonnaise with gusto. Indeed, squiggles of the stuff appear everywhere. Whether this is line chef gone mad with a squeezy bottle, or a quirk of Peruvian gastronomy it’s hard to say, but on the whole I liked the food. It was fun, different and made for sharing. Córsega 235, Tel. 93 667 4372, www.tantabcn.com
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Best of bistro: L’Office
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here are few places in Barcelona that call to mind a true Parisian bistro but L’Office is among them. Like the bistros of yore, it brims over with the kind of jolly bonhomie that makes old-school bistros such wonderful places. I started with a bowl of lightly steamed and salted veggies with a side of caper mayo. Simple yes, but taut and tasty as if they’d been plucked from the ground that morning, followed by a juicy pink hunk of onglet (the deeply flavourful cut of beef from the diaphragm) drizzled with a rich wine and shallot
Photo by Markus Kreutzer
sauce, a scoop of buttery mash and a pile of gently wilted spinach. I wish I’d had room for the trio of French cheeses or a slice of clafoutis with apples and Calvados, but that’s for next time. For now, it was the most enjoyable lunch I’d had in ages and good value when you’re eating at this level. If you pass by during the week, Jerome offers a daily bistro classic for €12: among other things Bouef Bourgogne on Tuesdays and Blanquette de Veux on Thursdays. L’Office Carrer Villaroel 227, Tel. 93 444 2288 www.officebcn.com
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his fantastic restaurant and lounge is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval just a short walk from the MACBA art gallery. Whether you’re looking for lunch or dinner, they provide a wide range of Spanish dishes and tapas that are made with traditional Mediterranean recipes, using fresh and exciting ingredients.
Thre emen course u of the day a incr t an edi €10 ble .50
If you prefer to eat ‘al fresco’, they have a great terrace situated on the Rambla de Raval so you can relax and watch the world go by. Inside they have a fresh new vibe making it a great place to meet up with friends for cocktails. It also has private rooms available for groups and couples. The friendly and attentive service is what really makes this restaurant stand out. It is open every day, with the kitchen open till midnight and the cocktail lounge until 3am. www.facebook.com/restaurantebarraval 104 Carrer Hospital 08001 Barcelona Tel. 93 329 8277
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Best of both meals: Drunch
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he Hotel Pulitzer, just off Pl. Catalunya, has introduced a new Happy Hour concept, Drunch (the word is a fusion of lunch and dinner). Don’t let the name put you off— Drunch at the Pulitzer is a tantalising mixture of well-prepared tapas plus a classic cocktail. Getting away from the now overdone Gin and Tonic, The Pulitzer offers eight new ways to enjoy a Bloody Mary, (try a Bloody María made with Tequila, or a Bloody Smoke made with Islay 24
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Storm Single Malt Whisky). Sit comfortably on a chaise longue, relax in an armchair and choose three generous selections from the tapas menu, everything from steaming rice with jumbo shrimp, artichoke hearts with quail eggs to Iberian ham sandwiches served with warm brie. The tapas are fresh, served with a smile and change weekly to keep you coming back. Hotel Pulitzer Barcelona. Bergara 8. www.hotelpulitzer.es
Passeig Tel. 93 Monday 1.30pm Weeke 1.30pm
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ikibana, Paral路lel branch
Their incredible Japanese-Brazilian fusion cuisine combined with the fantastic interior design, great atmosphere and excellent service make this restaurant an experience not to be missed!
Passeig de Picasso 32, 08001 Tel. 93 295 6732 www.ikibana.es Monday to Friday: 1.30pm-4.00pm, 8.30pm-12.00pm Weekends: 1.30pm-4.00pm, 8.30pm-12.30pm
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Avinguda del Paral路lel 148, 08015 Tel. 93 424 4648 www.ikibana.es Monday to Friday: 1 pm-1 am Weekends: 1pm-3am Kitchen open until 1am
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Restaurants
A few recommendations of places to eat that are popular with the locals and may not be mentioned in your guide books Asian Shanghai 1930 Buenos Aires 11 08029 Tel. 93 363 4370 www.1930.es Metro: Hospital Clínic
Cuines Santa Caterina Avinguda de Francesc Cambó 16, 08003 Tel. 93 268 9918 www.mercatsantacaterina.net Metro: Jaume I
Thai Barcelona Diputació 273 08007 Te. 93 487 9898 www.thaibarcelona.es Metro: Passeig de Gràcia
Fonda Gaig Còrsega 200 08036 Tel. 93 453 2020 www.fondagaig.com Metro: Hospital Clínic
Catalan cuisine Famen Ramis 2 08012 Tel. 93 210 5900 www.famenrestaurant.com Metro: Joanic
Italian Els Napolitans Diputació 93 08015 Tel. 93 539 3058 Metro: Urgell/Rocafort
Cal Boter Tordera 62 08012 Tel. 93 458 8462 www.restaurantcalboter.com Metro: Joanic
La Bella Napoli Margarit 14 08004 Tel. 93 442 5056 Metro: Poble Sec/Paral.lel
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Da Greco Passeig de Gràcia, 116 08008 Tel. 93 213 6550 Metro: Diagonal Tapas Morrison Girona 162 08037 Tel. 93 458 4017 Metro: Verdaguer
Mexican Rosa Negra Via Laietana 46, 08003 www.rosanegrabcn.com Metro: Uriquinaona Sandwiches and brunch Fastvinic Diputació 251, 08007 Tel. 93 487 3241 www.fastvinic.com Mertro: Passeig de Gràcia
Taller de tapas www.tallerdetapas.com Various locations
Brunch & Cake Enric Granados 19, 08007 www.cupcakesbarcelona.com Metro: Universitat
Mundial Bar Plaça Sant Agusti Vell 1 08003 Tel. 93 319 9056 Metro: Jaume I
Federal Cafe Parlament 39, 08015 Tel. 93 187 3607 www.federalcafe.es Metro: Poble Sec
Cervecería Catalana Mallorca 236 08008 Tel. 93 216 0368 Metro: Diagonal
Clarés Bruc 162, 08037 Tel. 93 459 1610 www.cafeteriaclares.com Metro: Verdaguer
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culture music
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e December 21st
Mark Ronson DJ Set Razzmatazz. From €13 After collaborations with artist such as Amy Winehouse, Lily Allen and the Kaiser Chiefs, English DJ and producer Ronson comes to Barcelona to play a one-off set.
December 29th
Manuel Carrasco Sant Jordi Club. From €27 The Spanish pop singer returns to Barcelona to perform his fifth album, Habla, featuring collaborations with the Rome Symphony Orchestra.
February 2nd
David Bisbal Palau Sant Jordi. From €33 Showman, singer and Grammy award-winning Bisbal has topped the Spanish charts with all four of his studio albums.
February 8th
Frank Turner Razzmatazz. From €24 British folk-punk singer Turner has a bit of a cult following thanks to his haunting acoustic-based
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tunes and catchy rhythms. He will be performing on the night of February 8th with Dropkick Murphys.
February 16th
Sigur Rós Sant Jordi Club. From €35 Hailing from Iceland, this band comes to the stage with their ethereal and minimalist sounds. They will be performing their new album along with some of their best known songs such as Hoppípolla.
February 20th
Crystal Castles Razzmatazz. From €25 The Canadian electronic and experimental duo are a hit with the public and critics alike, and the night promises one of their legendary chaotic live performances. 29
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classical music
December 26th
January 21st
Concert of Sant Esteve: Choral Cycle, Palau de la Música Catalana. From €47 Held in the magical UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Orfeó Català and the choirs of its Choir School will perform a traditional Christmas concert of Sant Esteve.
Rudolf Buchbinder, Palau de la Música Catalana. From €19 As part of Palau 100, a concert series dedicated to great orchestras, conductors, and international soloists, pianist Rudolf Buchbinder will perform works by Schubert and Schumann against the stunning backdrop of the Palau.
December 30th
February 8th-10th
New Year’s Concert: Municipal Band of Barcelona, L’Auditori. From €17 Celebrate the beginning of the new year with The Municipal Band of Barcelona who will perform works by Suppé, Tchaikovsky and Strauss.
January 11th
Symphony Orchestra of Saint Petersburg, L’Auditori. From €22 Legendary conductor Valery Gergiev comes to Barcelona with his performers from Saint Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre to perform a full Tchaikovsky programme which will include a special collaboration with Cuban pianist Jorge Luis Prats.
Michel Tabachnik: Symphony Orchestra of Barcelona, L’Auditori. From €26 The Symphony Orchestra of Barcelona will perform works by Brahms, Bartok, and Debussy under the talented guidance of Swiss composer and conductor Michel Tabachnik.
February 9th
Ballett am Rhein Düsseldorf Duisburg, Teatre del Liceu. From €58 The mystery of Bach has been transformed into movement by Martin Schläpfer, and has become a contemporary classic since its premiere in 2002.
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festivals December 7th to 24th
Els Grans del Gospel www.theproject.es The lively and music-filled festival reaches its fourteenth edition with a programme full of international gospel acts, held in venues across Barcelona and Catalunya.
December 26th to January 6th
Cirque du Soleil: Alegría www.cirquedusoleil.com The legendary circus group comes to Barcelona and promises a sensory delight full of adventure and fun, told through themes of power, youth, and
the evolution from ancient monarchies to modern democracies.
February 6th to 13th
Sitges Carnival Carnival is a time of joy, exuberance and joie de vivre before Ash Wednesday when Sitges’ streets will be descended upon by thousands of people enjoying the eccentric parade which has been celebrated for over 100 years.
January 12th to April 31st
International Folk Festival The extensive festival programme will feature around 50 acts from around the world performing a variety of songs from the folk genre.
February 10th to 12th
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Llum 2012 - Barcelona Festival of Light Coinciding with the February Festes de Santa Eulalia in Barcelona, the festival’s purpose is to draw attention to the beauty of around 70 of Barcelona’s iconic builidings which will be illuminated by night.
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tes estio the icont-
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Don’t miss out!
See our online events listings for everything that’s going on
in the city! www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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art
For the love of Art: Film and painting
CCCB www.cccb.org Considered to be the most important display of award-winning photography in the world, covering social, political, cultural and sporting events, the photos are outstanding for their aesthetic excellence, as well as their capacity to trigger an emotional response in the viewer. Until January 6th
MNAC www.mnac.cat As the first ever combined project between MNAC and the Filmoteca, the series of 29 films includes work by some of the great directors in the history of the cinema. Films for reflecting on the meaning of the work of art or on the creative process, and films that will immerse you in the lives of universally acknowledged artists. Until June 4th
The Arts of Piranesi
EulĂ lia Grau
World Press Photo
CaixaForum www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es The exhibition brings together a wide selection of the engravings by Giambattista Piranesi, showing the complexity, versatility and multidisciplinary nature of the artist’s work. Until January 20th 34
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MACBA www.macba.cat Born in Terrassa, Grau worked throughout the seventies and used mass media images to document the society of the time, exploring the recurring presence of violence, overcrowding and technology in everyday life. February 7th to May 26th
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t eca, rk the eork nd e
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Ten Embarrassed Men (2010). Annika Ström. Taken from ‘Feminism #2: A Performing Archive’
Critical Episodes (1957-2011),
MACBA www.macba.cat Focusing on systemic crises, their influence on modern art and in turn modern art’s impact on the world that witnesses them, this new collection brings together various portrayals of what is called today ‘systemic crises’ and spans three floors of the gallery’s expansive space in the Raval. Until February 17th
Antoni Tàpies. Col·lecció # 4
34 Fundació Antoni Tàpies www.fundaciotapies.org
The gallery presents a new selection of works by Antoni, which includes Tàpies’ different creative moments from the 1940s to the present day, and illustrates the evolution of the typologies, techniques and materials used by the artist. Until February 17th
Desarrollos
Marlborough Gallery www.galeriamarlborough.com One of the city’s most up-and-coming galleries presents David Rodrígues Caballero’s ongoing collection of innovative structures and sculptures. Until January 5th
What To Think, What To Desire, What To Do
CaixaForum www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es Separated into three synthetic questions and exhibitions, the series explores the idea of returning to the content of art, and an immersion into the depths of meaning proposed by the work. Until January 20th 36
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festes & traditions Fira de Santa Llúcia - Nov 25th to Dec 23rd Barcelona kicks off the
Christmas festivities with the Fira de Santa Llúcia. Santa Llúcia, known in English as Saint Lucy, is the patron saint of the blind, and this fair is one of the oldest and most firmly rooted Christmas traditions of Barcelona. The fair is held in the square in front of the Cathedral and has more than 280 stands offering all the products that you need in order to decorate your home for the holidays.
Cavalcada dels Reis Mags - Jan 5th 6.30pm to 9.00pm. The Three
Wise Men are the equivalent of Santa Claus for children in Spain. The city of Barcelona celebrates their arrival with a parade on January 5th, the night when the Three Wise Men, known as Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar, come to town bearing gifts. The Kings arrive by ship to the port of Barcelona at 5pm, where they
are given an official welcome by the mayor. Then the parade begins, passing along the Via Laietana, past the Plaça Catalunya and continuing on to Avinguda de Reina Maria Cristina, near Plaça Espanya. Information and the full route can be found here: www.bcn.cat.recorregut.
Carnestoltes - Feb 7th-13th
Carnestoltes—Carnaval—begins on ‘Dijous gras’ (Fat Thursday) and ends on ‘Dimecres de cendra’ (Ash Wednesday) with a traditional ceremony that involves the burial of sardines to symbolise the beginning of the fast. While in the US and the UK, these days are normally spent clearing out the pantry of anything tasty and delicious, Spain celebrates it the best way they know how, with a fiesta. Be on the look out for floats, dancers, costumes, music and tortilla-making competitions, as well as the Rei Carnestoltes leading the festivities.
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PLACES MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE E - Hotel Pulitzer (p.24)
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O - lost property office (p.48)
L - Enríque Tomás (p.50)
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0-45. maps.indd 3
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EIXAMPLE + GRÀCIA
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0-45. maps.indd 4
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0-45. maps.indd 5
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Barcelona Segway Glides Tour
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Need to Know BARCELONA: the practical info
EMERGENCY NUMBERS General emergencies Ambulance service (Ambulancia) Catalan Police (Mossos d’Esquadra) City Police (Guàrdia Urbana) Fire Service (Bomberos)
112
061 088 092 080
IF YOU LOSE YOUR CREDIT CARDS
Visa & Mastercard - 902 192 100 Amex - 902 375 637 Diner’s Club - 93 467 0145
IN THE EVENT OF A CRIME
The most central place to report a crime is the Guàrdia Urbana station at Ramblas 43. Tel. 93 256 2457 (24 hr; English spoken). www.bcn.es/guardiaurbana To get a police report for your insurance you can go to the Mossos d’Esquadra station at Nou de la Rambla 76-80, Raval. Tel. 93 306 2300. You can also fill in a report online: go to the website www. gencat.net/mossos and select ‘Denúncies’ then ‘Denúncies per internet’ (English option available). You will still have to take the completed form to the station to be signed within 72 hours.
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OTHER USEFUL NUMBERS Barcelona general information: 010 National directory enquiries: 11818
LOST PROPERTY
Anything left on public transport or found by police is sent either to the TMB office at Diagonal metro station (top of Passeig de Gràcia) or to the Oficina de Troballes (municipal lost property office) at Pl. Carles Pi i Sunyer 8-10; open Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm. Most items are kept for three months.
CONSULATES
AUSTRALIA: There is currently no Australian consulate here. If advice/help is needed, contact the Madrid embassy: tel. 91 353 6600. www.spain.embassy.gov.au CANADA: Plaça de Catalunya 9, 1º 2ª. Tel. 93 270 3614. www.canadainternational.gc.ca NEW ZEALAND: Travessera de Gràcia 64. Tel. 93 209 0399 www.nzembassy.com REPUBLIC OF IRELAND: Gran Via Carles III 94. Tel. 93 491 5021. www.irlanda.es UK: Avda. Diagonal 477. Tel. 902 109 356. www.ukinspain.fco.gov.uk USA: Pg Reina Elisenda 23. Tel. 93 280 2227. www.madrid.usembassy.gov
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Little Black Book ESSENTIAL ADDRESSES FOR YOUR BARCELONA STAY
The best hot chocolate in town Forget hot chocolate milk, here in Barcelona a hot chocolate “chocolate de taza” is a thick, gooey affair and especially delicious when served with “churros”, deep-fried sticks of dough. Granja Dulcinea. Petrixol 2. This beautifully-preserved cafe opened its doors in 1803 and stil retains its old world charm. Pastelería Escribá. Gran Via 546/La Rambla 83. www.escriba.es. Family-owned since 1906 by Barcelona’s most famous cake-making family. Granja Viader. Xuclà 4. www.granjaviader.cat. Creators of the chocolate drink “Cacaolat”, and also renowned for their thick, tasty chocolate de taza.
Where to buy turrón Often described as a kind of nougat, this is the king of Catalan Christmas treats. Buy some for yourself or take some home as the perfect seasonal gift from Barcelona. Planelles Donat Portal del’Angel 7. www.planellesdonat.com. This little store has been selling turrón
for over 100 years and has a huge selection. Beat the queues by getting there early. Caelum. Palla 8. This lovely shop sells only items produced in monasteries and convents. Check out their beautifully-packaged turrones. La Campana. Flassaders 15. A family-owned business that has been making their own turrones for over 120 years.
Where to buy ham Ham features big in any Catalan Christmas home. Enrique Tomás. Ferran 55. www.enriquetomas.com Boasting “the world’s best ham sandwich”, this is a slick local jamón enterprise. Pernil 181. Passeig de Sant Joan 181. www.pernil181.com The company was founded in the Fifties by Antonio Ferrer with stalls in various local markets; this shop was opened in 1988. Mantequeria La Sierra. Rosselló 160. One of a breed of traditional delis in Barcelona, this one is set amongst the tree-lined streets of the Eixample.
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NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTY 2012 VIP TABLE FOR 4 PEOPLE 10pm-6am - €600 1 bottle of Veuve Clicquot champagne or bottle of house sprit. 12 grapes to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Spanish tradition. 10pm-6am - €100 p.p. 3 glasses of Veuve Clicquot champagne or house cocktails. 12 grapes to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Spanish tradition. 2am-6am - €50 p.p. 2 glasses of Veuve Clicquot champagne or house cocktails. 12 grapes to celebrate New Year’s in Spanish tradition RSVP: yaiza.gonzalez@whotels.com www.whotels.com
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