Santa Barbara 6

On warm days

BY JACKIE BURRELL

Santa Barbara weaves a seductive spell from its perch between majestic mountains and glittering sea. Wineries and vineyards unfurl across the rolling hills to the northwest, wooing wine lovers with pinot noirs and rosés. Along the coast lie lapping waves and soft sandy beaches, where you can watch the sun rise and set simply by turning your gaze.

Of course, you’ll be considerably more comfortable watching those rosy dawns and dusks if you’ve taken a few hours’ break to stroll the city, check out the downtown boutiques and sample the fare at the city’s bistros, cafes and wine-tasting rooms. Whether you’re a history buff or modern pleasure-seeker, a weekend getaway in June provides the perfect opportunity to explore Santa Barbara’s historic past and sundrenched present, while wining and dining in style.

It’s not difficult to figure out why this region is known as the American Riviera. Like its Mediterranean cousin, Santa Barbara with its hillside setting is kissed by sea and sky. Bistros and sidewalk cafes line the city streets, and its vibrant arts scene keeps museums, galleries and theaters abuzz. You don’t have to wait for the glittering Santa Barbara International Film Festival, attended by Oscar front-runners each winter, to spot celebrities. We’d gawk at the glitterati who live here — this was California’s original filmmaking center, after all — but the cityscapes and ocean views are the real stars here.

Of course, the city didn’t always look like this shimmering Spanish vision, with its terracotta-topped white stucco walls, ceramic tileadorned stairs and vivid bougainvillea. When the downtown was rebuilt after a 6.8 earthquake devastated the city in 1925, town planners chose a Spanish Colonial Revival style, hoping to create a more architecturally cohesive town center. Today, State Street and its hidden paseos evoke a dreamy sense of history, a Spanish mirage of ranchos and fiestas — rather like a Hollywood Western with clean cowboys.

But the actual past can be glimpsed at more than a dozen destinations right downtown in the Pueblo Viejo (old town) District. Tourists may throng Stearns Wharf, which juts into the sea at the southern end of State Street, but starting a stroll a mile up this main drag allows one to explore the city and its history in the most delicious ways. Stroll the grounds of El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park and its adobe, which dates back to 1782, for a look at the last Spanish fortress of Alta California.

This being Santa Barbara, they do wine-tastings here, too, in the original wine cellar of the 19th-century Casa de la Guerra, where Standing Sun Wines pours its Rhone varietals on Friday-Sunday.

Page 33: Santa Barbara’s Arroyo Burro Beach Park is a favorite with locals, who still call it by its century-old nickname, Hendry’s Beach.

At left: Santa Barbara’s redtiled roofs and Spanish-style white stucco buildings date back to the 1920s, when a massive earthquake forced the rebuilding of nearly the entire downtown.

A block away, the well-curated and nicely air-conditioned Santa Barbara Historical Museum gives visitors a tour of bygone eras, from Native American civilizations to the 18th-century Spanish conquest, the 19th-century arts colony and the early 20th century’s Flying A movie studios.

The Spanish-style Santa Barbara County Courthouse and its murals, tile work and sunken garden are simply too beautiful to miss — and there’s no trial watching or jury duty required. The top of the 80-foot clock tower offers some of the most beautiful views in the city.

Nestled among all these sights are the paseos, a dozen charming hidden and not-so-hidden pedestrian walkways, from the 1990s-era Paseo Nuevo shopping district to the 1920s-era El Paseo across the street. The latter is the perfect place to end an afternoon. The original 1922 Mexican restaurant — also called El Paseo — that inspired the architectural revival has played host to nearly a century of glittering fiesta celebrations and fed everyone from Clark Gable to Quentin Tarantino. And just steps away are half a dozen wine-tasting rooms, from Au Bon Climat to Margerum Wine Company.

It is here, along the twists and turns of this re-created Spanish street, that past and present are nestled side by side.

Where To Get A Great Taco

Colors pop and flavors dazzle at this fantastic little taqueria in Santa Barbara’s sleek downtown Public Market, where eateries and food stalls share space with an olive oil shop and a wine bar. Corazon Cocina is the brainchild of Ramon Velasquez, a former sushi chef (yes, really) raised in Guadalajara. Everything here is fresh, seasonal and beautiful. Whether you order the Norteño ($7.50, grilled skirt steak) taco or the Ensenada ($5, beer-battered lingcod), be sure to top it at the salsa bar, where habaneropineapple salsa and other deliciousness await.

Details: Open daily at 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara; www.sbpublicmarket.com.

This stylish but casual counter-service spot has two locations downtown and one in Goleta, near UCSB, which just adds to the gastronomic fun. Here, you can go swanky with zucchini-blossom quesadillas ($10) or a 7-ounce Carne Azteca ($17). But we’re partial to the tacos. Order them by the platter ($16, grilled steak and chorizo) or singleton ($4-$5.50 for shrimp, chicken or steak). They serve beer and wine, too. Be sure to save room for flan.

Details: Open daily at 600 N. Milpas St. and 2911 De La Vina St., Santa Barbara, and the Camino Real Marketplace in Goleta; www.los-agaves.com.

At Santa Barbara’s Casa Blanca, you can get fish tacos any night of the week, but Taco Tuesdays are an all-you-caneat, makeyour-own taco extravaganza.

Prefer your tacos with an icy margarita? This lively cantina, a block from Santa Barbara’s arty Funk Zone, is tucked inside a white stucco, terracotta-roofed building. The Spanish-style dining room and inviting patio offer table service, and the bar menu includes not only beer and cocktails, but 120 different tequila and mezcal options. This can be a spendy spot, but the lunch menu offers Tacos al Pastor with pineapple and avocado crema (two for $9.95) and Tacos del Mar ($12.95) that include a shrimp and a Baja-style fish taco. And on Taco Tuesdays, the unlimited make-your-own taco bar is just $9.95.

Details: Open daily at 330 State St.; www.casablancasb.com.

Spectacular Beaches Dont Miss

1

Hendry’s Beach

Officially, this is known as Arroyo Burro State Beach. But locally, it’s always been Hendry’s Beach, a nod to 19th-century landowners William and Annie Hendry and their 12 children, who cavorted on this sandy strand where creek meets sea. It’s a beautiful spot, with soft sand, rolling waves and a Fido-friendly stretch where you can take your pup for a run. Parking is free. There’s an upscale restaurant, the Boathouse, with a take-out window so even overly sandy folks can grab clam chowder to go. But if you come at sunset and grab a perch in the dining room or at the swanky bar, you can enjoy a bloodorange margarita along with the view.

Details: 2981 Cliff Drive, Santa Barbara; www.countyofsb.org/parks and www.boathousesb.com.

2 East Beach

This beach near Stearns Wharf is popular with tourists and locals alike, thanks to its sandy shores, volleyball courts and picnic tabledotted lawns. The lively wharf scene is an undeniable draw, what with the restaurants, a wine-tasting room and the obligatory T-shirt and shell shops. But it’s the beach that bewitches. If you can tear yourself away from the rolling waves, you’ll find bicycle and fringed-surrey rental kiosks nearby and a long, winding bike path that invites exploration. Afterward, head for the serene Andree Clark Bird Refuge or the Santa Barbara Zoo.

Details: East Cabrillo Boulevard, Santa Barbara.

Above left: The Chromatic Gate sculpture at Santa Barbara’s East Beach is a popular spot for photographers and selfie photo ops.

Above right: The streets of Santa Barbara are transformed into a kaleidoscopic playground for three days in June when the Summer Solstice Parade and Festival arrives.

Summer Solstice Parade

What began as a small celebration in the sunken gardens of Santa Barbara’s famous courthouse has turned into a massive threeday festival every June. Crowds gather on State Street to watch giant puppets, elaborate floats and outrageous costumes on the Summer Solstice Parade route. And when the confetti has finished fluttering, Alameda Park becomes a sea of concerts, food booths, a beer garden and kid-friendly activities. Adding to the fun: From mid-May to mid-June, the city’s Community Arts Workshop holds classes on mural painting, mask making and large-scale puppet building, for anyone who wants to participate in the festival.

Details: Take a peek at the festivals and find out more atwww.solsticeparade.com.