firepits, cool breezes invite one to live in the moment

BY LISA WRENN

If summer by the sea is the California dream, there’s nowhere better to be in August than the Monterey Peninsula.

Few places in the world offer so many different ways to be by the ocean. While it may be best known for marquee tourist attractions like Monterey’s world-class aquarium or Pebble Beach’s famed golf, the common denominator luring visitors to this patchwork of Central Coast cities is its spectacular, eclectic waterfront.

And here’s a paradox: Access to Monterey County’s 99-mile shoreline is so vast and varied that even at the height of summer vacation, you can be watching pelicans dive-bomb for dinner, or walking a seaside path as waves hurl themselves against the rocks below and realize, with some amazement, you’ve got the place to yourself.

That’s not to say it can’t get packed, as anyone who’s driven down Highway 101 on a Friday or trudged along Cannery Row knows. And you may face some tough choices. Want to get nose to nose with a sea otter? Sure, but from a kayak, or at the aquarium? Construct a killer sand castle? Yes, but on which beach? Simply gaze out at the ever-changing water? Would you like that with big waves, rocks or both?

If you want to golf, shop for cheap trinkets or fine art, taste some of the state’s best wines and eat like a 1 percent-er, you can do that, too.

But it’s August, and we’ve come for the water, so let’s start from the top. Driving down from the Bay Area, the beauty begins the minute the blue Pacific first peeks out from behind the sand dunes.

Keep going past Marina, then Seaside and Monterey comes into view. If you’re ready for a stop, check out the four-story Monterey Tides, one of the few hotels in all of Northern California that’s actually on the beach. Recently renovated, the lobby and popular bar offer dramatic views of surprisingly large waves that seem close enough to crash through the floor-to-ceiling windows. If the ocean experience you seek requires falling asleep to the noise of thunderous surf, look no further.

But other ocean adventures beckon, so head into Monterey, where one of the many adventure companies will be happy to whisk you out onto the water. If you prefer sightseeing from the trail, bicycles and family-friendly surreys can be rented.

For a vintage California summer vacation experience, stroll along Monterey’s Fisherman’s Wharf, where you’ll find the expected mix of candy and T-shirt stores and barkers offering sips of chowder to lure you into restaurants with crab- and lobster-based menus. From there, it’s a 15-minute scenic walk to Cannery Row for more of the same, along with many odes to cherished local son John Steinbeck. This is also where you’ll find the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which offers an entertaining and interactive crash course on ocean creatures, eco-systems and kelp forests.

Page 43: Kayakers are escorted by a flock of pelicans off Del Monte Beach in Monterey. At left: The Monterey Harbor is part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, which is the largest marine sanctuary in the world.

From there continue south via the road or on the 23-mile Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail toward Pacific Grove, where old-school B&Bs in Victorian mansions with names like Seven Gables Inn overlook Lovers Point, with its sheltered cove, pool and volleyball courts.

Big Sur officially begins south of Carmel, but a shorter, more accessible version takes shape here. Walk the trail or, if you’ve got wheels, cruise the road south and take advantage of the many turnouts to scramble down steps or rocks and explore the tide pools.

After a few miles you’ll hit Asilomar Beach, whose huge rolling banks of waves are emerald green on a clear day. Here you’ll have another decision to make — whether to cut through the peninsula down to Carmel, or pay the $10.25 to take the 17-Mile Drive through the gated community of Pebble Beach and ogle the real estate as well as the $10 million-dollar ocean views.

No matter how you get there, no trip is complete without spending time in Carmel. Ready for a glass of wine? Again, hard choices -- which of the 15 tasting rooms to try? Maybe try a few. There are 72 art galleries to check out, too.

And when you’re weary of shopping, look west and head down the hill -- all streets lead to the water. This is one of the area’s best and most beloved beaches, distinctive for its white sand. Take off your shoes, go for a walk. After all, it’s summer.

Placestocozyupnexttoafire

1 Hog’s Breath Inn

Owned by former Carmel mayor Clint Eastwood and filled with movie memorabilia, Hog’s Breath Inn is a veritable institution.

One of the town’s many hidden patios, you’ll wander down a path to discover an intimate, sunken, multilevel, tree-covered bar and restaurant offering all kinds of different places to cozy up to your own personal fireplace, or maybe find one to share. On rainy days grab a seat at the intimate inside pub to sip ale, whiskey or the cocktail of your choice.

Details: San Carlos Street, between Fifth and Sixth streets, Carmel; www. hogsbreathinn.net.

Restaurant 1833

This historic, gorgeous venue is set in one of Monterey’s oldest adobes which is where California’s first newspaper was published. Today it’s a popular date-night restaurant. The inside bar is cool, the food is high-end, but we’re partial to the outside bar which features several fire pits. Set off from a quiet street by a giant hedge, this soulful oasis features eclectic furniture groupings around big trees strewn with white lights. According to locals some of the cast and crew of HBO’s “Big Little Lies” spent time here, drinking hand-crafted cocktails with names like “Hungry, Hungry Hipsters” and “Cereal Killer.”

Details: 500 Hartnell St., Monterey; www.restaurant1833.com.

Housed in an historic adobe, Monterey’s Restaurant 1833 features a cozy patio fire pit that is perfect for date night.

3 DIY on the beach

While bonfires are banned in many Northern California communities, they are allowed — if controversial — on certain public beaches, including Carmel Beach, and at Casa Verde Beach in Seaside. The adjacent beachfront hotel, Monterey Tides, offers bonfire packages for $20 (for $25 they’ll include all the makings for s’mores).

Details: Monterey Tides, under new ownership, has been extensively renovated to offer a family-friendly, upscale experience. Right off the lobby is the sleek Bar Sebastian with stunning views of the pounding Pacific. On the fourth floor is Vizcaino Waterfront Food + Drink, with yet another gorgeous vantage. 2600 Sand Dunes Drive, Monterey; www. jdvhotels.com/hotels/california/montereyhotels/monterey-tides.

Get Out On The Water Dont Miss

1

Grab a paddle

Rent a standup paddle board and you’ll almost feel like you’re walking on water as you glide over white sands toward the kelp forest. Rather paddle? Take a guided kayak tour or venture out on your own to get up close to sea lions and otters, pelicans, jellyfish, maybe even a dolphin or two.

Details: Adventures by the Sea rents paddleboards and kayaks, as well as bicycles and surreys from six area locations in Monterey and Pacific Grove. Paddleboards are $30 for a 2-hour rental, $60 for a 2-hour lesson or $50 for an all-day rental; kayaks are $35 for a single, $60 for a tandem or $60 per person for a tour (and you can keep the kayak for the rest of the day). www. adventuresbythesea.com.

2 Take a boat

Just about any kind of water excursion imaginable — sailing, whale-watching, fishing or trips on glass-bottom boats and fast-rafts, even sunset cruises — is available, most of them leaving from Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey. Details: Tickets for Princess Whale Watch tours are $45-$65 for a 2.5-hour tour, which leave from 96 Fisherman’s Wharf #1, Monterey; www.montereywhalewatching.com.

If you’re interested in sailing, locals rave about Bella by the Bay, steered by Captain Christian, an eco-minded sailor who offers several kinds of trips starting at $85 per person. The most popular is a half-day private eco-tour for up to six guests ($750). Bring your own drinks and snacks. All tours are booked by phone at 818-822-2390. 32 Cannery Row, Suite 8, Monterey; www.bellamontereybay.com.

Rocky Point Restaurant sits cliffside between Carmel and Big Sur and provides both panoramic windows and an open outdoor deck that overlook the Pacific Ocean.

Rocky Point

Rocky Point, a cliffside restaurant with an unfettered view of Big Sur, is an undiscovered treasure. A beautiful 15-minute drive south of Carmel, it’s practically invisible from Highway 1, which may be why we’ve never had to wait for an ocean-front seat. Once you cross the Garrapata Bridge, keep your eyes peeled — it’s less than a mile away and the sign pops up right after you round a large hill.

If the weather’s nice, choose a table or maybe an Adirondack chair out on the three-level deck. Staring out at the iconic coastline over eggs Benedict or a glass of wine at sunset, you might feel you’ve just scored the best table in the world.

Details: 36700 Highway One, Carmel/Big Sur; www.rockypointrestaurant.com.

Mendocino Crab, Wine and Beer Festival

Jan. 19-28

This scenic hamlet on the north coast draws visitors with a variety of festivals throughout the year, but its crab fest is one of the best of its kind, thanks to its all-you-can-eat cioppino and crab feeds, a crab-cake cook-off and the area’s excellent local wines and beer. www.mendocino.com

ScotsFestival on the Queen Mary Tentative dates: Feb. 17-18 (tentative)

When you remember that Mary was Queen of Scots, it’s obvious why the famed ship, built on the bonny banks of the River Clyde and now permanently moored in Long Beach, is home to the state’s most unusual gathering of the clans. Expect all the usual competitions, music, games, haggis-eating and whisky-tasting opportunities, plus a Robert Burns Supper. www.queenmary.com