Mendocino 7

Remote, romantic and a little reckless, untamed Lost Coast beckons in summer

BY KAREN D’SOUZA

The sheer unspoiled beauty of Mendocino takes my breath away every time. Standing on the headlands across from the New Englandstyle town, gazing out over the jagged black rocks that jut majestically above white-tipped waves, I’m heady with exhilaration. There’s genuine magic in this rugged and remote destination that never seems to lose its distinct character.

More than a place, Mendocino is a state of mind, a coastal oasis where the rest of the world feels so remote that reality slips away. No matter how crazy the real world seems to get, the Mendocino coast is so wild and untamed that I always come away feeling restored and renewed.

Escaping to Mendocino County is sublime in any season but the pleasures of the region are downright magical in July. Balmy summer temperatures also make this craggy patch of California coastline even more idyllic than usual. The warm weather might even entice you to sashay into the chilly surf instead of just immersing your feet in the powder-soft sand. The majestic Big River, which opens out to the sea on the south end of Mendocino, is one perfect spot to wade in. There’s nothing like getting your tootsies wet while the sea drums — the sounds made by offshore rock formations dotted with blowholes — joyfully pound in your ear.

Point ArenaStornetta Unit of the California Coastal National Monument offers visitors hiking paths and vistas from which migrating whales can be seen.

That said, you still need to pack a scarf. In this panoramic county perched at the edge of the Pacific, there is nearly always a brisk morning fog to bask in as you walk along insanely picturesque paths that snake along the sea. Mendocino Headlands State Park, not far from the quaint center of town, is the ultimate place for a romantic stroll along the ocean or a picnic on a windswept bluff. That wonderful mixture of ocean spray and foggy mist is also one reason coastal Mendocino was spared during the October firestorms.

In fact, the sea breeze can get quite nippy in the evenings, which are often best spent sipping a local pinot noir while dipping in a hot tub with a stunning view of the crashing surf and a good book. In Mendocino, you never have to feel guilty for doing absolutely nothing at all.

But if you can pry yourself away from such meditative pleasures, there’s plenty to do. In July you might want to take in the Mendocino Music Festival or tuck into the World’s Largest Salmon BBQ in the scenic Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg where the sea lions frolic amid the boats.

Or if you’re feeling adventurous you can try what I did on a recent trip: take a high-speed ATV ride. Zooming around the 2,000-acre Newport Ranch, wind whipping through my hair and ocean mist cooling my face, I dashed past free-roaming cattle and ancient redwoods and careened from birds squawking loudly in windblown cypress trees to shy little fawns hopping around, trying to hide amid the ferns at the ranch’s inn.

Indeed, thrills and contemplation can exist side by side here. Be forewarned, there are so many spectacular things to experience, from the dazzling gems of multicolored sea glass at Glass Beach, to the historic 131-year-old Skunk Train, that your bucket list will be endless and you must resist the pressure to try and see it all.

I’ve been in love with Mendocino for quite some time and my trips have taught me that the details of what you do amid the beauty of the north coast are insignificant. What’s important is that you fully immerse yourself in the gorgeousness of nature, the pristine beaches and virgin redwoods that make this region so unforgettable.

Perhaps my favorite Mendocino ritual is to stand high upon a seaside cliff, take a deep breath and savor one last look at the edge of world. That little piece of serenity is Mendocino’s most priceless souvenir.

3WONDERFUL WINERIES

1 Lula Cellars

This place, one of the last stops as you head through the Anderson Valley as it snakes from the redwoods to the sea, is a must-sip. If you fancy pooches almost as much as pinots, this cozy tasting room has a canine greeter, Honey, a friendly yellow Labrador retriever with a dash of Rhodesian Ridgeback mixed in. Feel free to bring your own dog along and belly up to the bar for generous pours and lots of information about the art of dry farming. Dan Reed, who mans the bar, has a gift for gab and a nose for wine that makes this tasting room a pleasure to visit.

Details: 2800 Guntley Road, Philo; www.lulacellars.com.

2 Roederer Estate

Celebrated for its sparkling wines, this is the California outpost of France’s storied maison de Champagne, Louis Roederer. The understated elegance of this winery fits beautifully into the natural beauty of the Anderson Valley, with its rolling hills, rustic red barns and windmills. Sip some bubbly, tuck into a “Boontberry Picnic” and bask in the magic of the grape as perfected by the house that created the legendary Cristal in 1876 for Alexander II, tsar of Russia.

Details: 4501 Highway 128, Philo; www.roedererestate. com.

3 Husch Vineyards

Banish all thought of wine snobs because Anderson Valley has folksy charm that can’t be beat. Founded in 1971, this intimate family-run operation is the vanguard — the oldest winery in this picturesque valley. At the time, the area was best known for apples and grains. Now the star of the show is definitely the fruit of the vine. Sustainability and organic methods have been a hallmark of this winery since the ‘70s. Note the quaintness of the tasting room, a pony barn that dates back to the late 1800s.

Details: 4400 Highway 128, Philo; www.huschvineyards. com.

Vineyards cover the rolling hills along Highway 128 in the Anderson Valley, near Navarro.

EXPERIENTIALHOTELSDON’TMISS

1 Inn at Newport Ranch

Spend a night in the Grove Suite, with redwoods holding up the vaulted ceiling. This is a luxury hotel nestled in a cattle ranch with 2,000 acres surrounded by crashing surf and giant redwoods. You can hike, bike and horseback ride at this memorable hotel, with its ocean views, fireplaces and hot tubs.

Details: 31502 Highway One, Fort Bragg, www.theinnatnewportranch.com.

2 Little River Inn

This classy 75-year-old, family-run Victorian hotel fronts the ocean. Porches with panoramic views, cozy furnishings and fireplaces add to the pleasures of this 225acre resort. Keep your eyes peeled for spouts at Ole’s Whale Watch Bar.

Details: 7751 Highway One, Little River; www.littleriverinn.com.

The Heath and Heather Collection at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens is most vibrant in the summer. In September 2010 it was recognized by the American Public Gardens Association as a “Collection of National Significance.”

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

The serenity of these public gardens, one of the few that front the ocean, dotted with intoxicating bursts of pink and orange and lavender blossoms, is a balm to the soul. A sanctuary from the real world, you can immerse yourself here in the beauty of nature. Even if you don’t know a succulent from a succotash, this 47-acre oasis will take your breath away. Stroll from the fragrant rose garden to the Cliff House, high upon a windy bluff along the sea. Take a class on how to forage for mushrooms. Learn the intimate relationship between the redwoods and the ocean breezes.

There are many ways to find your bliss in this botanical haven. Even children will delight in this garden sanctuary with its majestic natural beauty, engaging volunteers and delectable local treats. And don’t worry: The homemade ice cream is worth the guilt.

Just don’t rush your visit to this jewel of the Mendocino coast, a garden so epic it was voted the fifth best in the nation by USA Today. Make sure you have time to meander and lose yourself in the scent of the heather or the whimsical flight of a butterfly. Time seems to bend in a place this magical and that’s the best kind of mental vacation.

Details: Open daily at 18220 Highway One, near Fort Bragg; www.gardenbythesea.org.