Central Coast

Butterflies a boardwalk and beauty beyond belief

BY JESSICA YADEGARAN

There is so much to love about the beach cities of the Central Coast. From Oceano north to Avila Beach, this 12-mile stretch of coastline has a unique, untouched beauty that sets it apart from California’s more built-up beach brethren to the north and south. Pismo Beach, Arroyo Grande, Shell Beach and their neighboring seaside towns offer everything you need to relax and recharge.

Come October, you might find yourself particularly drawn to this bucolic coastline. The crowds have thinned, and instead of the buzz of tourists you hear the call of rock-loving shorebirds as they cling to the rugged cliffs and calm kelp beds of sleepy Shell Beach. October is a particularly exciting time for nature lovers to visit, as thousands of orange and black butterflies begin their migration to Pismo Beach’s eucalyptus-filled Monarch Butterfly Grove. These small coastal hamlets are the setting for epic hiking, biking and surfing, too. The Central Coast is home to several annual surf competitions and charity bike rides, including the Central Coast Surf Classic, which features both longboard and shortboard con- tests on the historic Pismo Pier, or the SLO GranFondo, where cyclists of all levels participate in a 100-mile ride from the Avila Beach Boardwalk through the rolling hills of Edna Valley wine country.

A visit to the Central Coast is never complete without a dip into the food scene, which includes a plethora of top-rated restaurants in San Luis Obispo, home to Cal Poly State University, and Paso Robles just 30 miles north. Over the past 10 years, Los Angeles restaurateurs have flocked to the area, opening up critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurants, casual farm-to-fork cafes, Parisian-style bakeries and even a fromagerie. A whopping eight weekly farmer’s markets, from Arroyo Grande and San Luis Obispo in the south to Atascadero and Paso Robles in the north, feature seasonal produce and specialty, locally-made gourmet goodies.

All that delicious food is in great company, because as a wine region, San Luis Obispo County is among the largest and most diverse in California. A remarkable 200 of the 250 wineries and tasting rooms in the county are found in Paso Robles. There, the warmer climate and unique geography are optimal for producing big, bold red wines, including cabernet sauvignon, merlot and zinfandel, the area’s heritage wine varietal.

If you crave lighter wines — or a lighter, smaller wine experience — you can stick to the more manageable wine region in and around San Luis Obispo. The vineyards in this region unfold along the seafront side of the coastal Santa Lucia Mountains, with two small adjoining viticultural areas: the temperate Arroyo Grande Valley, which is ideal for balanced chardonnay and pinot noir, and the cooler Edna Valley, which has the perfect growing conditions for crisp aromatic white wines.

Page 55: Pismo Beach is a 60-acre regional beach with a pier and promenade. The pier is currently closed for renovations but is slated to partially reopen by mid-summer 2018.

At left: Avila Beach attracts visitors with its sandy beach and seaside town, featuring a half dozen wineries, restaurants, shops and an aquarium along five blocks.

Perhaps no Central Coast town celebrates that unique combination of laid-back wine and beach culture better than Avila Beach. That has a lot to do with geography: because Avila faces south and is protected from fog by the San Luis Hills, it has an unusually gentle climate, with fewer cold days than neighboring beaches. Locals call it “the hole in the clouds.”

By October, the short drive to Avila is unpopulated and pleasant, winding through a lush agricultural valley lined with natural mineral hot springs. Blue skies welcome you, along with brightly-colored houses on the hill and a boardwalk lined with surf shops, casual eateries and wine-tasting rooms.

The Avila Wine Trail features eight small tasting rooms, most clustered together on or near the boardwalk, for a low-key and manageable day of wine-tasting. Sniff and sip while you ponder dipping your toes in the ocean.

Natural Wonders

1 Monarch Butterfly Grove

In late October, the grove opens for an upclose view of these magnificent creatures, numbering more than 20,000 at a time during their four-month stay. There is nothing quite as breathtaking as seeing the orange and black monarch butterflies cluster in the branches of the eucalyptus trees near Pismo State Beach. During daily talks, volunteer docents explain how the butterflies cluster to shield themselves from the cold winters and explain that those visiting Pismo live up to six months, instead of the usual six weeks.

Details: Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; www.monarchbutterfly.org.

2 Mineral hot springs

Soothe your mind and muscles at the Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, which offers 23 open-air hot tubs that are naturally heated with mineral spring water and tucked into the lush, tree-filled hillside along Avila Beach Drive. Hot tubs are fenced off for privacy and accommodate two to eight people. The luxurious Oasis Waterfall Lagoon accommodates up to 20.

Details: Hourly rates vary. Avila Beach; www.sycamoresprings.com.

Above left: Astonishing numbers of butterflies flock to the Monarch Butterfly Grove in Pismo Beach.

Above middle: Head out from Pismo on Price Canyon Road and you’ll find a dozen wineries tucked away in the Edna Valley, including the rustic modern Kynsi Winery.

3 Pismo Preserve

The 900-acre preserve weaves 10 miles of trails through woodlands, past Pismo Creek and along coastal ridgelines that offer unparalleled views of the Pacific Ocean. But it is also a treat not easily enjoyed by everyone. That’s because the preserve on the northeast end of Pismo Beach is only accessible on weekly docent-led hikes, bike rides and horse rides. By the end of 2018, that will change as the Land Conservancy of San Luis Obispo County completes construction of public amenities and will open the preserve to the public full-time. In the meantime, sign up for a docent-led hike or ride.

Details: The preserve is accessible from Highway 101 and Price Canyon Road; lcslo. org/events.

AWESOME FESTIVALSDON’T MISS

1 SLO GranFondo

Clip in at the Avila Beach Pier boardwalk for a bicycle ride through Edna Valley wine country toward the mountains surrounding Lopez Lake. You’ll be back in plenty of time to feast on local wines, beer and delicious bites. Three pace groups make it simple to set your goal — or just roll your way to bliss.

Details: www.slogranfondo.com.

2 Pismo Beach Clam Festival

More than 15,000 people flock to this free, three-day event on and around the Pismo Beach Pier. Events include a wine walk, surf showdown, clam bake and a contest for best clam chowder from local restaurants. There’s live music, a parade, a kids zone and more.

Details: Fees vary for specific events. www.pismoclamfestival.com.

Above right: ATVs traverse the dunes at Oceano Dunes, California’s most extensive coastal dunes and a favorite playground for off-road enthusiasts.

Oceano Dunes

Among the gorgeous beaches of the Central Coast, Oceano Dunes is epic, a vast expanse of powdery white sand molded into colossal towers by the wind. The dunes have long held a mystical power over the imagination. There was once even a utopian colony of artists here known as the Dunites.

You can feel the mystery as you meander through the Oceano Dunes Natural Preserve, a labyrinth of tall, undisturbed dunes leading down to the ocean. It’s a pristine paradise of sun, sand and sea. Or bop next door to the only state park where you can drive on the beach. There you can strap yourself into an ATV and go charging through the Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area. With the brisk ocean mist in your face and your heart in your mouth, you’ll soar over the tops of the dunes as if your dune buggy were a bird, landing on the soft pillows of sand below with a woo-hoo and a thud. Revel in the freedom of roaring up and down some of the most majestic 80-foot dunes on the planet.

This is the ultimate thrilling beach experience, an extreme adventure best for those who feel the need for speed. Take note, it’s easy to get lost in this maze of dunes so keep your wits about you as you zoom.

Details: Oceano Dunes Natural Preserve, 100 Pier Ave., Oceano; www.visitcalifornia.com/ attraction/oceano-dunes-natural-preserve. SVRA, end of Pier Avenue, Oceano; www. parks.ca.gov/?page_id=406.