2015: Eureka Premium Edition

Learningto ridethewaves

MarkEmmons digsinto the surfculture inSanta Cruz. 10

MOREINTREPID LISTINGS 18

Q+A: Acyclist onherregimen and dedicationto the sport 22

EUREKA*

Searching forBigfoot

Bruce Newman travelsto Willow Creek,onthehunt. 24

MOREQUIRKYLISTINGS 32

Q+A:The man behind S.F.’sannualtreasure hunt 36

Relaxing on PointReyes

JuliaProdisSulekdecamps, unplugson Tomales Bay. 38

MORECHILLLISTINGS 48

Q+A:Taiko drummer helpsartistsfind the beat 52

Succulent treats, nearby

LindaZavoralexploresall thatLivermorehasto offer. 54

MORETASTYLISTINGS 62

Q+A:Chicken and waffles: a tried-and-true combination 66

Tahoe,away fromtheglitz

Elliott Almond navigatesthe lake,hot springs and trails. 68

MOREAFARLISTINGS 78

Q+A:Onmountain climbing and theallure ofYosemite 82

California’s motto, Greek for “Ihave found it” INTREPIDQUIRKYCHILLTASTYAFAR

Opposite:Aswimmer stepsgingerlyonthe rocks ataswimmingholeintheSanta CruzMountains knownas the Garden of Eden.Photograph by JasonHenry

Ourbackyardparadise

BYLISAM.KRIEGER PHOTOGRAPHBYJASONHENRY

There are people whose heartsstirat the thought of another visitto Fisherman’s Wharf,Six FlagsDiscoveryKingdomandthe Winchester Mystery House.

Thisissue is forthe restof us.

Pocketsof paradisesurround us —little-known venuesto visit, meals to eatandsights to see that are so perfect thatyouforgive real estate prices, Google buses and yetanother drought.These are uniquelyNorthernCalifornia experiences that catch your breath and remindyou:“That’swhy I live here.”

Ourhope istotransport youto theseplaces,through theeyesof some of our favoritejournalists.

They’reeasily overlookedin this eraof exoticforeigntravel, bucketlistsandtouristmeccas. Notmarqueeattractions, they may not befeaturedinguidebooks, Yelpreviews or on Instagram. They aren’telegant monuments or grandmuseums. They don’toffer maids inuniforms. Or room service.

Instead, theyarebelovedfor what really matters: pleasure and inspiration. Somespots arequirky —others,comforting. They may offer adventure. Orrelaxation. Maybe they’reromantic. Orjust

Story editors: Mark Conley,Mike Frankel, SandraGonzales,Lisa Wrenn.

Art directors: Tim Ball,TiffanyGrandstaff.

DirectorofPhotography: Jami Smith.

Copy editors: Kristen Crowe, TorHaugan.

Contributing writers: DennisAkizuki,Elliott Almond,MattArtz,Tim Ball,Chuck Barney, Daniel Brown,Jackie Burrell,Patrick Cant, Cindi Christie,ChrisColin,Mark Conley,Mark Emmons,MikeFrankel,Matthias Gafni,Jim Gensheimer,TiffanyGrandstaff,Tor Haugan,

toddler-proof.Thewondersofour region beckon,if weonly pause long enough to notice.

Morethan just destinations, they’realsoexperiences. They smellofDouglas fir or taste like artisan cheese. Theyfeellikehot tubs or cooljazz.Theysound like old nickelodeons or splashing childrenatLakeDel Valle.Maybe

Lisa Herendeen,Lisa Krieger,Craig Lazzeretti, David Little,Barb Marshman,Veronica

Martinez,Michael Mayer,AndrewMcGall, JoanMorris,Bruce Newman,PatrickPerron, Leigh Pointinger,SusanTripp Pollard,Garrick

Ramirez,Josh Richman,James H.Robinson, Jill K.Robinson,KristopherSkinner,Jami

Smith,Susan Steade,JuliaProdis Sulek, Christine Torres,Chris Treadway,Jane Tyska, TedWard,Nick Weiler,Andy Wright,Linda Zavoral.

they look as inviting asafield of ripe blackberries, as haunting as apieceofplane crash debris in theSanta CruzMountains oras gorgeous as Lauren Bacallon the screen atStanfordTheatre. Become aconnoisseur of the best thatNorthern California offers. First,relax in bucolic Point Reyes. From there, it’soffto a lov-

ably weird Willow Creek, “Bigfoot Capital of theWorld.” Then it’s timefor a surfing lesson inSanta Cruz. Next:Circumnavigate Lake Tahoe for off-the-beaten-track experiences.Closertohome,explore the food and drink ofLivermore winecountry.

Thisis where life’sreally happy moments happen—notin fancy hotels,but simpler surprises just down the road,overthe fence, betweenlife’sresponsibilities and beyondclocksand calendars.

Nomatter wherethe journey takes you,it’sachanceto escape ordinarylife. Learn something new.Become someone else. Return refreshed.Maybethe adventureis shared with friends and familyorjustthe joy of your own imagination. Suchexperiences open ourminds,maybe even changethem.

These ideasarejustthebeginning. Favorite places are profoundlypersonal, so newones will reveal themselvesinsurprising and serendipitousways.

Asyouexplore,add yourown special reasons to lovewherewe live.

CONTACTLISAM. KRIEGERAT 650-492-4098. FOLLOWHERAT TWITTER.COM/LISAMKRIEGER.

Contributingphotographers: LiPo Ching, Doug Duran,Jim Gensheimer,Jason Henry, Josie Lepe,Dai Sugano,Patrick Tehan,Max Whittaker.

Contributingartists: Antoine Corbineau, DaveJohnson,LydiaKasumi Shirreff.

About the cover: Sovin Herzlinger,10, demonstrates his climbing skills (left) in Campbell forthis photoillustration bystaff photographerJim Gensheimer.

Swimmingholes like theInkwells (above) near Lagunitas dot ourlandscape.

EUREKASTAFF

APLACE TO RESTYOURHEAD(LANDS): Stayinahostel; launchfrom the Headlands,Page 20

PADDLEPASTAPELICAN: Paddleboardin Sausalito,Page 20

ISLAND

ADVENTURE: VisitAngelIsland,Page 18

CATCHING WAVES UNDER THE BRIDGE: SurfundertheGolden Gate,Page21 BELTINGBY THE BAY: Play sailor,and sing the partatFisherman’s Wharf,Page 34

RUINS AMID RICHES: Explore the city’s ruinsatSutro Baths,Page50 MAGIC IN THE PARK: Seek out theFairy DoorinGolden Gate Park,Page 32

AMUSICAL INTERLUDE: Experience a weeklyjazzconcertinfront of a SalvationArmy store nexttoatacotruck in theMission,Page33

MAPBY ANTOINECORBINEAU

FORESTIN FOGCITY: Hike atMount Sutro,Page 20

PARKHIDDEN INPLAIN VIEW: Escapethe masses at John McLarenPark,Page50

FOCUS ONFRESHNESS: Get lostgoing gourmet at Healdsburg’sShed,Page65 RIVERSIDE CINEMA: Catchaflick in thesticksnear theRussianRiver,Page 80

DRINK LIKEAKING: Drink up — inacastlein Calistoga,Page 62 REDWOODRUBDOWN: Bathe next toSalmonCreek,Page 51

HANDCRAFTED CHEESE: Seek outartisancheesesinFreestone,Page 65

HIDDEN HIGHWAY: Pedal onChileno ValleyRoad,Page 48

CABINS ON THE EDGE: Letthewaveslullyouto sleepintheSteep Ravinecabinsat Mount Tam,Page 49

LITERARYLANDMARK: Trace JackLondon’slife,Page 50

OYSTERS STRAIGHTFROMTHE SOURCE: Shuck and slurp inMarshall,Page 64

TOWNTHAT

MAPBY ANTOINECORBINEAU

TIME FORGOT: Step back in time in Port Costa,Page51

PORTLYPINNIPEDS: PeepsealsatAñoNuevo,Page 48 BARNBOOGIE: Work byday; dance thenightawayatPescadero’s PieRanch,Page 34

BEAUTY ATBIGBASIN: Explore Rancho delOso,Page21 ZIPPINGTHROUGHTHE REDWOODS: Fly through the treesin Felton,Page 21

BERRYBONANZA: Pick sweettreats at SwantonBerry Farm,Page 62

IGNITE THENIGHT: Watchdancers play with fire in Santa Cruz,Page 32 SWELLTIME ATTHE BEACH: Boogie boardatRio del Mar,Page18

PADDLING IN THE SLOUGH: Kayakat Elkhorn Slough,Page21 SEASIDE SWINGING: TeeoffinPacific Grove, Page51 APICTURESQUEPOINT: Hike atPointLobos,Page 20

MAPBY ANTOINECORBINEAU

QUICK

I’dliketodosomething...

Matchhowmuchtimeyouhavewithhowfaryouwantto travel,thenchooseyourownadventure

CENTRAL

San Francisco,East Bay

Havefunat AdventurePlayground

Go for asoak in Berkeley

Seek outthe Fairy Door

Dropsomecoin at MuseeMecanique

Dine at thePacificaTacoBell

Watch a freeconcertonaMissionsidewalk

Be Alameda’spinball wizard

Visit ad icons at Hayward’sBellPlastics

Show adatethe starsinOakland

Make a sour face atMikkeller

Sample upscalespirits inahangar

Hike atMount Sutro

Cycle through the redwoods in Canyon

Surfunderthe Golden GateBridge

Explore our own Rock City

Bird-watchin Richmond

Placeabet at Golden GateFields

Motor (or paddle) atDel Valle

Escape themasses andvisit McLaren Park

Wanderthe Niles districtin Fremont

Eat,drink,play bocceinLivermore

Pick your own produceinBrentwood

TraceJackLondon’s life

Drinkupin a castlein Calistoga

Get gourmet grub on thego inYountville

Visit oliveoil country

Stockup in St.Helena

Shuckand slurp oystersin Marshall

FuelupattheJimtownStore inHealdsburg

Sit andsip at TruettHurst

Hike for pancakes atMt.Tam

Seek outartisan cheeses in Freestone

Go gourmet at Healdsburg’sShed

Visit Angel Island

Cycle at Point Reyes

Launchfrom Marin Headlands Hostel

Paddleboardin Sausalito

Make some NatureFriendsatMt.Tam

Experience Nick’s Cove,TomalesBay

Pedal onChileno Valley Road

Ride therails inSuisun City

Enjoysweeping views fromMt.Tam cabins

Bathe in Sonoma County

Step back in time in PortCosta

Run‘The Hill’ inRedwoodCity

Mountain bikeatSanborn County Park

Takearuninthe South Bay

Fly through the redwoods in Felton

Watch fire dancersin Santa Cruz

Hike toaplane crashin San Mateo County

Relive the era of the Grateful Dead

Stroll up to a waterfall inBig Sur Geek outonbeerinChico

Cruise ShastaLake instyle

Takeanambitioustrip north

Bring

Boonville

Set upshop(with asurfboard)

Zenout in Saratoga

Pick sweet treats atSwantonBerryFarm

Learn howto surf in SantaCruz

Boogie boardat Rio del Mar

Tryout archery,ride horses,sipwine

Hike atPoint Lobos

Kayakat Elkhorn Slough

Explore RanchodelOso

Barn danceat Pescadero’sPie Ranch

Takerefuge at aspain Carmel

PeepsealsatAñoNuevo

Teeoff in PacificGrove

Sample some sudsin SurfCity

Tastewine inMurphys

WanderinNevada City

Scale granite inYosemite

NORTH Marin,TomalesBay,Wine Country

SOUTH The Peninsula,South Bay,Santa Cruz,more

INTRPID E

WELCOMETO

MECCA SURF

RIDEAGNARLYWAVE,CATCH AHARD-COREVIBE,GETHOOKED INTHECOUNTRY’SORIGINAL SURFCITY—SANTACRUZ.IT’SEPIC.

BYMARKEMMONS PHOTOGRAPHSBY PATRICKTEHAN

SO,THISISSUPPOSEDTOSTARTOFFASA TOTALLYSTOKEDSTORY ABOUTSEARCHING FORTHESOULOF SURFING,DESCRIBING THAT LIFE-CHANGINGMOMENT OFCATCHING AFIRSTWAVE,MAKINGACONNECTION WITHTHEOCEAN’SBOUNDLESSENERGY ANDBEINGPROPELLEDINTOANETHEREAL EXPERIENCEWHEREYOUHOPETORIDE ATOPTHEROILINGWATERFOREVER. BUTTHATWOULDN’TBEENTIRELYHONEST.

THEREALITYGOESMORELIKETHIS:IT’SABOUT HOWIMANAGEDTOTEETERPRECARIOUSLY ONAWOBBLINGLONGBOARDFORAFEW PRECIOUSMILLISECONDS.ANDTHATWAS ONLYTHROUGHTHEHERCULEANEFFORT OFAMASTERSURFINSTRUCTOR,RICHARD SCHMIDT,WHOSKIMMEDNEXTTO MELIKEAN ATTENTIVEPARENTDASHINGALONGSIDEA CHILDLEARNINGTORIDEABICYCLEWITHOUT TRAININGWHEELS.BUTEVENASI TUMBLED OFFTHATWAVE, WHOSEHEIGHTPROBABLY WASBESTMEASUREDININCHESRATHERTHAN FEET,IGLIMPSEDTHEMYSTICALAPPEALOF SURFING. THIS,ITHOUGHTWHILETAKINGINA MOUTHFULOF BRINYWATER,ISJUSTSOCOOL.

This isn’tauthor MarkEmmons. This is an experienced surfer riding thewaves at Santa Cruz’s popular surf break Steamer Lane. Located off a point in theWest Cliff residentialarea near downtown, SteamerLane offers easy access andstunning views. Previous page:Asurfer headsoutto ride.

Living in the BayArea,as we all know,can befilledwith migraine-inducingstress.Mostof us arefocused, whennottrapped in endlesstraffic, on payingexorbitant rents and mortgageswith thegoalofhavingalittle leftover attheend of eachmonth.

Butpartofthecompensation for putting up withallof that is the knowledgethat Northern Californiacan beanadventure waiting to happen.

Borrowingfrom author J.R.R. Tolkien, it’sadangerous business goingout your front door and steppingonto the road because there’snoknowing where you might beswept offto. Graced withaMediterranean climate, theBayArea is a living, breathing outdoor playland oftrails to hike and bike, rocksto climb and, perhapsmostenticingofall,waves to beexplored.

THEEPICENTER OF Northern California surfculture, and its ancestral birthplacein the mainlandUnited States, isinour backyard.Andno wonder Santa Cruz oncewas namedAmerica’s best surf town bySurfer magazine.It’shome toacoupledozen surf breaks,O’Neillwet suits, acommunityofboard-shaping artisans, international star Nat Youngand…well, you getthe idea.

Welcome toSurfMecca.

“Santa Cruz just has the whole surf vibe,” saidMichel Junod, 66, who for nearly fivedecades has beenbuilding surfboards thatare works of art. “There are so many goodsurfingspots herebecause thetopographyofthe shoreline is notlike anywhere else. Youcan surf maybe 300days ayear,and it can begoodalldaylong.Then youtoss in thesurfschools and theunbelievable number of surf shops, andthere’sacomplete lifestyle dedicated tosurfing.It’sthe best city in Californiafor surfing.”

Sittinginanoffice next to his workshop, filledwith colorful boards, Junodshook hisheadin aweofitall.

“Nobodycould have predicted this,”he added. “It’samazing what’shappened withsurfing here.”

Amile away,thesport’slocal historyis detailed at the quaint Santa CruzSurfingMuseum, at

Lighthouse Point. The storybegins withthree Hawaiianprinces. Theywere in the Bay Areaattendingamilitaryschool when they first surfedoff the mouthofthe San LorenzoRiver in 1885.

Vintageblack-and-white photosofthe Santa CruzSurfing Club, formed in 1936,capture when surfingfirstgrabbed a toehold here.A13-foot redwood plankrisestoward theceiling— looking more likesomething a shipwreck survivormight have clungtothanaboardfor early surfers.

Morephotos,these in color, chroniclethe decades as surfing went from curiositytoapop culture touchstone of American film and music.

Thebest thingabout the museum, though,is thelocation. It’snear a cliff face where you can stare down atSteamer Lane, one of Santa Cruz’s mostlegendary surf spots, along with Pleasure Point.

Mother Nature not only gave Santa Cruz wonderful surf breaks, but also amphitheater-style viewingso landlubbers can share in the spectacle. On days with goodswells, thecurious will be mesmerizedby dozens ofwet suit-clad acrobats cutting through frothy,curling waves.

SURFING ISNOTMERELY asport, but awayoflife — orso say hard-core surfers. People may play tennis or golf, but youlive surfing.

Butformost people, the idea of surfing is moreseductive than actuallysurfing. That’sbecause we nonsurfers understand,deep down,howhardit mustbeto look so incrediblygraceful on a slim board carved fromplastic foam andcovered infiberglass and polyurethanematerials. Besides,it takes farlesseffort to buy surfclothesandjustlookthe part.

Butthe sportis ridingarising wave.In 2014,morethan 2.7million peoplesurfed, accordingto theSports &FitnessIndustry Association—anearly7percent jump overthepreviousthree years.

Longtime surfersgrumblethat all of thoseknow-nothingnewbies —or“kooks,” inthesurfvernacular —aretryingtojumpontheir

waves. After all, the breaks are few,and the surfersalreadywere many.

JeffLangston, aSan Jose nativewhofirstcame “over the hill”to surf inthe 1960s, has witnessedthegrowth firsthand. He tells of surfing with friendsin the dark beneath dimlight castfrom the Santa Cruz Wharf,wearing white T-shirtsoverwetsuits to keepfromhittingoneanother. There was a time, hesaid, when Santa Cruzwaves were empty.

“When we were kids,wewould be looking for people,”added Langston,66. “Now, you’re lookingforplaceswith nobody. Surfingis kind of suffering,to some degree, from its own success. Costco has boards nowstarting around $100, so anybody can try it prettycheaply. It’sbecome crazy.It’sbetterfor metowork on theweekendsand catchwaves duringthe week.”

Actually,surfing ishiswork. Heowns theretail side ofHaut Surf Shop,whereSantaCruzlegend DougHautcrafts world-famous custom boards.Langston often finds himself counseling potentialcustomers with surf feverto take adeepbreath.

“Wealways sayyou should demoaboardbefore you spend a thousand dollars,”he said. “The real shocker sometimesis the cost ofawetsuit. Itcan be$500 to $800. But it’sonly50degrees in the water, andthe cold will suck the energy right out of you.”

Hepreaches the wisdomof starting with a lesson.

“It really opens up the world of surfing, and then youcansee if it’syour cup of tea,” Langston said.

That’showIended upstandingatCowell Beach,feeling like astuffedsausage in askintight wet suit, nervously listening to Schmidtexplain theSurf 101 basics as he raised his softvoice above thesoundofthe waves lappingagainst theshore.

“It’sreallygoing on out there today,”Schmidtsaid, staring out atwater sprayingupward as it crashed upon adistant rocky point.“This will be good.”

Gulp.

COWELLISSCHMIDT’S

“office.” Awide expanse of smooth beach next to thewharf,

This is author Mark Emmons. Withthehelp oflongtimesurf instructor Richard Schmidt, Emmons tacklesthe waves at Cowell Beach, one ofthe best places to learnhow tosurf.Atright: Michel Junod has beenbuilding surfboardsfor nearlyfive decades.

Cowell is consideredone of the best places anywhere tolearn howtosurf,thanks to long, rollingwaves and aforgiving,sandy bottom.

Addtothathow this was a warm spring day andsunshine glistenedoff the oceanlike sparkling diamonds,andIwondered if Schmidthad the bestjob ever.

Trimandpossessing a Zen-like sense of calm,Schmidt firstrode air mattresses in the white water as a youth and later graduated to big-wave surfing — makinga name for wrangling someofthe biggest,baddestwater monsters. Since 1978, Schmidthastaught the sport’smechanics,etiquette and safetyatasurf schoolhe runs with wife Marisa.

While there isnolack of knowledgeable instructors inSanta Cruz, Schmidthasareputation for beingthe best.Ialsosought him outbecausehe isknown as an ambassador for thewaves — a philosopher-king ofthesport. Hespeaks fluent surf.

“It usedto be more of arebel thing,but now it’sgonemuch more mainstream,” saidSchmidt, 54.“It’sdefinitely alluring. It’s just wildbeingimmersedinthis bodyof water and feelingits power.There’san adrenalinerush when you’re harnessingnature’s energy.It’sexhilarating.

“But it also can be therapeuticout there,just sitting onthe board, watching the dolphins and the sun setting. There’snothing like it,andthere’sneverabad day on thewater.”

With that,he told metoattach the Velcro leash to my ankle and pick up the 9-foot longboard.

“Ready?”

AQUICK WORD HERE ABOUT

the actof surfing.The “standing” portion is briefcompared withthe “paddling” part. Friends warned me about howtaxing Imight findjust reaching the waveswith alongboard because it meansgettingreacquainted withyour underusedtriceps.

Schmidtaddedthatalesson canbe awake-up callabout your levelof physicalfitness. So true. I quicklylearned that,at 53,mine was not as goodasIhad hoped.

Early on, pridegave wayto fatigue, and the tireless Schmidt offered to help towmy board —

deftly holdingthe nose withhis feet—on thelongpaddle out so Icould conservestrength for actually tryingto surf.

Once Schmidtdeemed that we hadgonefarenough, he had me point my board toward the shoreandhe began scanningthe horizon the way acity resident looks for a cab.

When you’reprone on the board, thewaves lookmuch bigger. Belatedly, I realizedthat I was a fish outofwater … despite thefactIwas in the water. Ieven wore a purpleshirt over the wet suit to ID me as anovice,as if that weren’talreadyblatantly obvioustoanyoneelse in theocean, includingthe seals.

Butitalsowas a truly breathtaking scene, watching accomplished surfersupclose as they glided byonwaves with acasual rhythm. Abovewerelooming cliffs where countless timesIhad stood, staring down atsurfers, wondering howthe heck they did that.

Iwas about to find out.

Schmidtthen began picking out waist-high waves, told me when to startpaddlingtocreate momentum, showed mehowto lumber up to my unsteadyfeet and crouchinto apoorman’sversion of the classicsurfer position. Heevenhelpedsteady me while riding his board nexttomine.

And I found myself standing, sort of,on amoving surfboard. Withoutevensufferingany blunt trauma intheprocess.I was stunned to find myself once coasting on a small wavemaybe 30 or soyards. Onlyafter I fell into the water didIrealize that Schmidtpeeled offand letme take thewavealone.

Somethingthat Junod had told me a fewdays earlier popped into myhead. Surfing,he said, can be incredibly addictive.

“For somepeople, their life becomes surfing,and they build their world around it,”Junod added. “If youdon’twatchout, you’ll gethooked, too.”

NEARBY,AFATHER RODE tandem on aboard withalittle girl. I would findout laterthat Brian Grasser and hiswife, Sheri, recentlyhad moved toBonny Doonfrom Pacificawiththeir twodaughters, partlytobecloser

MichelJunod shapes surfboards that areworksof artinhis shop in SantaCruz. “There are so many goodsurfing spots herebecause the topographyof theshoreline is not like anywhere else,” says Junod. “Youcan surf maybe300daysayear,and it can be good alldaylong. Then you tossin the surf schools and the unbelievable number of surf shops,and there’sacomplete lifestyle dedicated to surfing.” At left: Surfersride thewavesatSteamer Lane.

to thewaves.Hehasbeencoming to Santa Cruzto surf since age14 and now was passing onthe sport to 6-year-old Bea.

Sheseemedalotmore comfortableonthe board than me, by the way.Nosurprise there.

“Surfing justgives you a real connection to thewater,”said Grasser, 42,aSouth San Francisco firefighter. “When I’m away from the ocean, Imiss it. Iwanttoget back to it. It’ssoneatwatching mydaughter’ssmile, knowing that shefeels that energy,too.”

Muchofmytimeonthe board was a blur. But Ialso know it was heart-pumpingfun.

And I do have one vivid memory on thewater.During alull, I sat on theboardbobbingwiththe gentlemovement of theocean beneath thecloudless sky.Schmidt was taking in the cliffs,thewharf wherethebarking ofseals echoed and the endless water.

“Aren’twe blessedtolive here?” he asked.

Iwas too out of breathto respond. But looking back now,I have ananswer.

Yes,weare.

FOLLOWMARK EMMONS ATTWITTER.COM/ MARKEDWINEMMONS.

1.SurfingMuseum 2.Breaks at Pleasure Point

3.HautSurf Shop 4. Cowell Beach 5. Steamer Lane

‘FORSOME PEOPLE,THEIR LIFEBECOMES SURFING,AND THEYBUILD THEIRWORLD AROUNDIT. IFYOUDON’T WATCHOUT, YOU’LLGET HOOKED,TOO.’

MAPBYDAVEJOHNSON

VisitAngelIsland

When you thinkofBay Areaislands, Alcatraz might very wellbethefirst onethatcomes to mind. But why not check outAngelIsland?It’sthe largest natural island in SanFrancisco Bay,andyoucan get thereby ferryfromSan Francisco orTiburon and spend thedayorthe entire weekend.The islandis beautiful, with severalcampsites(although thewait times for them arelong),biking and hiking trails, and an amazing 360-degree viewfrom the peakof theisland. Youfeel likeyou’re out in nature,but you cangetgreat viewsofBayArea cities.Andaround now, thereare wildflowersallover.There’salso a fascinating museum commemorating theinternment of Asian immigrants on this “EllisIsland of theWest.”

Fordetails, call415-435-5390.

Run‘TheHill’

JerryRice, Roger Craig and other49ers greats used to testtheirmettle by running up a scenicstretchof Edgewood Park in Redwood City.Rice usedtocallthe 4-mile loop his“fourth quarter”becauseitrepresented his dedicationto training. Itmakes for a lovely hike — andafabulous photo.

FordetailsonEdgewoodPark,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1DXaSz6.

CycleatPointReyes

Lovecycling? Log someserious miles atPoint Reyes NationalSeashore. Options cater to those looking for shortertreksaswellas seasonedcyclistswhowantto complete a 100-mile, or century,ride. Visitorscenters offer a freemap, which indicatesbicycle trails. Just make sure to keep your eyes peeled, and yield,for horsebackridersandhikers.

Forasample trek,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JPnrkC.

Boogieboardat RiodelMar

Boogieboardthe day away atRio delMar State Beach,atthe end of Beach Drive inRio delMar. Because ofthe topography,thebeachoffers plenty of rideworthywaves.If you seesurfers, you know the conditionswill begood.This isalsoagreatplacefor beginning surfinglessons.

Fordetails, call831-685-6500.

Mountainbikeat Sanborn

Thenew John NicholasTrail atSanborn CountyPark is the kind of trailmountain bikers long for — that’s because it wasdesigned andbuiltwiththe help of mountain biking enthusiasts. Beforestarting your journey,park atthetrailhead, on Black Road in Los Gatos. Thenhit thetrail. Itnever gets too steep, and it affordspleasant scenery,with canopy cover the wholeway.Check out the viewofSaratogaandthe bay near the top. The downhillreturn isablast, with minimal braking required.The onlycaveat:There are no toilets.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1OFRrX0.

Runin theSouthBay

Hitthe ground runningonLos Gatos Creek Trail. Start near Lark Avenue(find parking on Charter Oaks Drive). Head toward downtown Los Gatos on thetrail, and turn aroundatthe drinking fountain just after goingunder the Main StreetBridge. This section of the creektrail has the mostshade, drinking fountains and bathrooms. The sceneryisgreat, with Vasona Lakeand plentyof wildlife along thecreek. Toadd3milesandsome hills to your run, keepgoing past the turnaroundspotandhead up the damat LexingtonReservoir. Staytothe leftand return on the Jones Trail (it’saheartbreaker upthe hill), and then theFlume Trail dropsyou backatthe waterfountain under theMainStreetBridge.Ifthisdoesn’tsatisfy you, adda3-milelooptoreach the topofSt.Joseph’s Hillfor ahalf-marathon.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1EqRj5Q.

HikeMountWanda

Thewondrous Mount Wanda in Martinezprovides abeautiful, easyhike thatoffers panoramicviewsof Mount Diablo, Martinez, Beniciaand the Carquinez Strait. Namedbylegendaryconservationist John Muir after his daughter, it’sastone’sthrow fromtheJohn MuirHouseand wasfrequented by Muirduring the years he lived in Martinez. Therealso arelotsofinterpretive signs along the path peppered with inspirational quotes from Muir, andthe areaishometo deer, birds andother wildlife.The JohnMuir House, on the other side ofAlhambraAvenue, is itself a well-kept secret. A NationalParkService site,it provides a fascinating look at Muir’slife as a familyman and farmer when hewasn’texploring thewild.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1EqQHwT.

When Muir lived in Martinez, he oftenvisited Mount Wanda — named afterhis daughter.

Fromtop:Hikersdescendthe Mount Wanda Trail; joggers taketo theLos Gatos Creek Trail; andwildflowersandafire warning in the campground on AngelIsland.

ONMUIR

Above: Students at Bowhunters Unlimited take aim ata target on the archeryrangeat Stevens Creek County Parkon Mt. Eden Road.

Thisplacehasit all:archery,horses,wine...

What dobowsand arrows, horsesand wine haveincommon? They all canbepart ofanaction-packedday and are located (nearly) within spittingdistancefrom oneanotherin Santa ClaraCounty.Stevens Creek County Parkhasa28-station archeryrange on Mt. EdenRoad.Archerylessons areavailable from Bowhunters Unlimited. Nextdooris Cooper-GarrodEstate Vineyards (22645 Garrod Road, Saratoga) andGarrod Farms (22647 Garrod Road),whereyoucanhike, ridehorses and tastewines.Musicis featuredmanySundays.If youdon’tride horsesbut like towatchthem,check outthevaulting team during practice.

Fordetailsonarchery lessons, go tohttp://bhuarchers.org/bow7/lessons; fordetailsaboutCooper-GarrodEstateVineyards, go towww.cgv.com; andfordetailsaboutGarrodFarms, gotowww.garrodfarms.com.

Fromleft: Meghan Collins hikes to a target; ChristineZhu enjoysaglassof wine at CooperGarrod Estate Vineyards;and Danny Baldwin getsanuzzle fromLakota.

TEXTANDPHOTOGRAPHSBYJIMGENSHEIMER

Hikeat MountSutro

Thishilly61-acre parkinSanFrancisco’sInnerSunset neighborhood offerscinematicviews,shadytrails, and (bestofall)thefeelingyou’rewandering through aforestin themiddle ofacity.Climb thestairsat Stanyanand 17thstreets, andenterontheHistoric Trail.Hike through lush greenery andtoweringtrees to the FairyGatesTrail, and it’llspit you back out on BelgraveStreet, close towhereyoustarted,for an easy beginnershike. But thefun ofMount Sutro is following thenumerous winding pathstodiscover new views,quietreading spots andthe occasional renegadewoodsculpture.

Fordetails, gotohttp://bayareane.ws/1GIRUDo.

LaunchfromtheHeadlands

Torekindleyour daysbackpackingthroughEurope, spend aweekend at the Marin Headlands Hostel in the Golden GateNational Recreation Area, just past the Golden Gate Bridge. It’salaunching pad for hiking,biking,surfing and beachcombing,as well visitingthe PointBonita Lighthouse, TheMarine MammalCenter,Headlands CenterfortheArtsand Bay Area DiscoveryMuseum. Optimal timeisspring for the many varietiesofwildflowers in the area.

Forreservations, gotohttp://bayareane.ws/1HV5CU3,orcall415331-2777(office hoursare7:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m.,daily).Walk-insare welcomewhenroomsareavailable.

CycleinCanyon

Escape theheat this summer withabicycleride throughthe redwoodgrovesofCanyon,anunincorporatedcommunitynear theborderofContra Costaand Alameda counties (betweenOakland and Moraga). Bring yourown water and lunchbecausethere is not much there—thelogging campsandsaloons of previouscenturies are long gone — but if you needto mail a letter, there isapostoffice.

Hikeat PointLobos

PointLobos StateNatural Reserve,sometimesaptly referredto asthe “crown jewelof theStatePark system,” isabsolutely themostbeautiful place totakea leisurelyhike. Don’tbelieveit? Justlook atthephotos by Ansel Adams and EdwardWeston. Thepark offers guidedwalks, too.

Fordetails, gotohttp://bayareane.ws/1GCzzVL.

ONCANYON

The website for thepublic CanyonSchool boasts this motto: “10,000 redwood trees, 70 students, 5teachers, 1school.”

PaddleboardinSausalito

Yearning for some peacefulpaddling? Head to Sausalito. Ifyou gettherebefore noon, thewateris usuallycalm andnottoo windy,perfect for paddleboarding,especiallyforbeginners and kids.Soak up therelaxingvibeswhile passing sea lions andpelicans,checkingoutthe boathouses,and taking in the fantasticviewsofthe Golden GateBridge and Angel Island. Rental boards gofor less than $20an hour. Fordetails, goto www.seatrek.com/stand-paddle. After you’veworkedupanappetite, go to Sausalito’sLe Garage(85 LibertyShip Way,Suite 109) formusselsor to Bar Bocce(1250 Bridgeway)for lunch: appetizers, pizza and drinks,with a similarview totheone you had paddleboarding —but with bocce!

Calm watershelp beginning paddleboarders set sailin Sausalito.

At the Marin HeadlandsHostel,it’snot about thebare-bonesinterior; what liesoutside its walls is whatdrawsvisitors fromafar.

SurfundertheGoldenGate

Yes,theremight be sharks. Yes,thereare definitely jaggedrocks.And, yes,if youdon’tplan itright,the outrushing tidemight verywellsweep youright through thegate andinto veryrealdanger.But for anyoneaddicted to surfing, there isnomore surreal setting here. Getshackedwhile having your spatial awareness baffledbythat enormous backdrop.But please put in your time — and payyourdues—elsewherefirst. Thisis notan adventureforbeginners.

Action-packed‘playground’

Berkeley’sAdventure Playground is not your grandma’s playground.Thisspot, namedatop-10playground in National Geographic, ups the ante by offering fun activitiesthatengagekids’ creativityand imagination. With supervision, kids can playonzip lines and even take part in“build your own playground” activities,including painting,sawing,and hammeringtogethertheir own equipment.

160UniversityAve.Fordetails, call510-981-6720.

Flythroughtheredwoods

Mostvisitors to California’sredwoods—thetallest living things on earth —seeonly one-third of the trees’ towering magnificence.Mount HermonRedwood Canopy Tours in Feltonoffers adventureseekers aviewof therest.They’vestagedaSanLorenzo Valley forest with ziplinesandrope bridgesthat stretch high above the forest floor. Strap on a helmet, lock in your harnessand zip fromtreeto treeonaguided tour of the forest’supperreaches.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1GJzyC9.

KayakatElkhornSlough

Fancyabit of wildlifeviewingwithyour workout on the waterways?Head toMoss Landing,andrent akayak—orjoin a guidedtour —at the mouthof Elkhorn Slough, and paddle yourway through a state marinereserve rich with critters. The seaotter population here can be particularly activeand is most prevalent in thefirst 2 miles(also keepyour eyes out for sea lions, seals andpelicans). Afteryoudrop off your vessel, head 1½miles south, and rechargeon thedeck at Phil’sFishMarket(7600Sandholdt Road), whichoffers amouth-watering cioppino, among a dizzyingarrayofseafood, withaview.

Fordetails, go to www.elkhornslough.org/kayaking.

ONREDWOODS

In addition to its basic canopy tour, thecompany offers an “aerial adventure course”for the slightlymore daring visitor.

ExploreRanchodelOso

Immerse yourself in seven distinctecosystems— from marshes to redwoods—at this exceptional naturecenter tuckedawayinBigBasin Redwoods StatePark’s wildly scenicWaddellValley.Once home to President HerbertHoover’sextended family, the historicranchhouse isfilled with interactive exhibits that illustratethe habitatsand wildlife of its wondroussetting.Aseriesof trails branchout from the center, and across theroad are the colorful windsurf kitesofWaddell Beach.

Fordetails, go tohttp://ranchodeloso.org.

In some parts of this Elkhorn Sloughkayakingadventure,the animalsoutnumber thepeople. Below, kayaksawaittheir riders.

Rubber,road&resilience

CONVERSATIONWITHLINDAJACKSON ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

LindaJackson isamong the thousands ofBayArea residentswhobelievelife isbetterontwo wheels. In1993,she leftthe world of investmentbanking to become a professional bicycle roadracer.To sayshethrived is anunderstatement. Jacksoncaptured six Canadian national championshipsandcompetedin the 1996 Summer Olympics beforeretiring in2000. Since then, she hasmaintained her connection to cycling as the managerofTeamTIBCO-SVB,anelite women’ssquad. ThePescaderoresident took some time to chataboutherpassion forthe sport, agreatnewride andLycra.

LEARNMOREATWWW.TEAMTIBCO-SVB.COM

Wehear thatyour friends call you “Action Jackson.”What’s that all about?

Ijustcan’treallysitstill. I’m usually doingseveralthingsat once. Ihave naturally high energyand am a very lightsleeper.Combine that withmylove of caffeine — morning only — and I am usually buzzingaround all day.

Clearly, much of yourenergy is expendedatopabike.And you’ve riddenallover theworld. What makestheBayAreasuch agreat place for cycling?

TheBay Areaisphenomenal. We’vegotgreatweather most of the year, anamazing arrayof terrain and scenery,andthekind of ridesthatmatchany levelof ability.There are so manyrides here thatyou could do a different one every weekand not run out of places togo.

Do you have a favorite?

Ihave alot of favorites. Anewer one — thepiece de resistance—is theJohnNicholasTrail, out of Sanborn Park (in the Santa Cruz Mountains). It’sgreatfor both mountain and road bikersand hassome incredible views. It’sa breathtakinglybeautiful ride.

What advicewouldyou giveto someone just gettingintocycling?

First ofall, youdon’tneedtogo buy a big,expensive bike. Geta usedoneoffCraigslist.Justmake sure it fits you. Also, ridewith oth-

er people.It’sso much more fun.

Butwhataboutthefunny, snug-fitting clothes?For some, that may beadeal-breaker.

Letmetell you something about those“funny”clothes.Icommuted toStanford on a clunkyold bike in the mid-’80s —before I was into cycling. I wore regular clothes, and people inLycra wereflying right by me. I wondered: “How is that happening?” Thefunnyclothesare actually important. Lycra keeps yourbutt comfortable on the seat.

Any othertips?

Learn safetyfirst.Seriously.Iwas hit two years ago byanSUVon Skyline Boulevard. I spentfive days in the ICU and had 14broken bones. A lot ofmotorists don’tpay attentiontocyclists.You’vegot to be a defensivecyclist and really pay attentionat all times. …Oh, and put some lightson your bike.

Howdidyou first get intothe sport?

Indirectly—via another injury! I was skiing one weekendin 1990 withagroup of reallytalented skiers. Iwasn’tthat good, but I tried to do thesame jump they weredoing,andIblewout my knee.Ineeded reconstructive surgery.Biking was a bigpart of myrehabilitation.

So one thingledto another.

Yep.Ienteredmy firstrace,in Morgan Hill, and finished second.

Fromthat moment on, it was in myblood. I gotinto itby afluke, and it changed mylife forever. I oftenthink: I couldbeapastywhitewoman inacement tower, working on some kind ofdeal. Instead, I’moutside and active,enjoyingthesplendorof California.

And nowyoumanagethe topranked women’scyclingteam in North America.

That’sright.We startedout asa modestlittle team 11years agoout of Palo Alto Bikes andhave built it intoagreat place whereour riders canrealizetheirdreams.

Is thereanything a casual, beginningcyclistcan learn fromthepros?

Perseverance is abigthing.I remember how one of our retired riders, BrookeMiller, couldn’tget up Old LaHonda Roadwhen she first started. But practice does make perfect, andshe eventually became one of the best sprinters in the world.

I’ve oftenwonderedifhighly competitive cyclistscanever do just alazy afternoon ride?

Ijustdidthat the other day.Iwas out on my bike, and a group of riders shot pastme. Myimmediate reactionwas, “Grrrrrr!” I wanted to speedupand gojoin them.Ididn’t, though.Imaintained myslower pace.So, yes,I candialit down,but …

Butwhat?

That’sonly because I know that on four out of fivedays,I’llbe going as hard as I want.

OK. So that’show itworks.

Yes,that’showit works. Andthank you. You’vefired up my passion. I’ve gotta gojump onmybikenow!

SaSQUaTCH INSEARCH OF BYBRUCE NEWMAN

Travelto thenorthernmost reaches ofthestateand you’ll find a town built around a legend.

Willow Creek (population 1,710)is hometo skeptics and believersalike,but is it also hometoahirsutegiant?

PHOTOGRAPHSBYLIPOCHING

THERE aRE THREE BIGFOOTSTaTUES anDTWO BIGFOOTMURaLS

—includingan epic rendering more than a hundredfeetlong that threatens to engulf thelocal hardware store — a block in both directions from theentranceto theBigfootScenicByway,running north from Willow Creek.The owner of Bigfoot Books describes this epicenter ofSasquatcheryas “extremeNorthern California,” and, in allsortsofways, he’snotwrong.

Bigfootis everywhereinthis little town, yetit is difficultto find anyonein Willow Creekwho has everseen thebiggaloot.Almost everymerchant downtown has aBigfoot concessionofsome kind, andatthe Bigfootmuseum gift shop, thebig ape’sterrifying tootsies havebeensqueezed and shrunk to fit on ashot glass. Here’slookingat you,Biggie, wherever you are!

Icame toWillow Creek because it istothe worldof hairyhominid man-apes whatLosAlamoswas to the atomicbomb:asmall,sin-

MAPBY DAVEJOHNSON

gle-industry town thatmanagedto make the earth tremble. Following purportedBigfootsightings in 1958and 1967 — the latter accompanied by a grainyfilmin whichafemale phantasm is seen striding throughaclearing atBluff Creek—Willow Creek’sChamber of Commerceembraced thegiant creature as it mightahomegrown Super Bowl hero or an astronaut.

Oraltraditions of threeNative American tribes inthe area had long toldof woodlandcreatures that roseuptoheightsof10 feet and weighed 500pounds.By the timetheannual BigfootDays Festivalbeganin 1960 —featuring a paradethroughdowntown that shuts down state Highway299for more than an hour — it seemedhalfthe population of WillowCreekwas clompingaround carrying plaster castsofthe creature’sfeet.

“There’salot of peoplehere who have either seen itorthink they’veseenit,”says Steven Streufert, proprietorofBigfoot Books, putting the split between true believers and “thosewho just think it’saChamber of Commerce scam” at50-50. Rolling a cigarette atthe back of astore dense with dog-eared books and emptytins of cat food, Streufertpronounces himself“probably the guy who knowsthe most aboutBigfoot.”

But, likealmosteveryoneelse in town, Streufertprefers to diphis toes into thecreature’soutsized footprints rather than dive in head first. “Itakekind ofameta approachto it,” hesays.“I study the phenomenon of the belief, rather thanbelieving it myself.”

Opposite:TessJohnston watersplants next to astatue ofBigfootat the AceHardwarestoreinWillowCreek.

Previousspread: A dogsniffs around for theelusive creature infront of amural onthe wallofthe Patriot gas station thatshowsBigfoot overlooking theTrinity River.

Myown approach had been more southerly than meta,driving from the South BaytoHumboldt County withmyfamilyinsearch of somethingdistinctly different from Silicon Valley.We set out for Willow Creekon aThursday, hoping tobeatthe Bigfootcrowds, and after nearlyfive hoursof freeway driving,Whiskeytown Lakeand BrandyCreekprovided thetrip’sfirst intoxicatingviews. Fromthere,weclimbed into the Trinity Alps, whichhave become famous in almostequal measure as Bigfoot and BigWeedCountry. Theregion’stwobiggest cash crops — marijuana andamythic

‘BIGFOOT IS A WONDERFUL THInGFORWILLOW CREEK.

Clockwise from top left:Though thecountry club dropped “Bigfoot”from itsname, you still passBigfoot Avenueonthe way; a painting adornsthe bathroom door at BigfootBooks; Bigfootburger buns welcome patrons tothe Early Bird restaurant; StevenStreufert, ownerofBigfoot Books,has plentyofBigfoot titles on offer; themural at AceHardware depicts gentle, communityorientedBigfoots; andJanetand

Bruce Nelson produceBigfoot Red wine at their SentinelWinery.

monster —remainlargely invisible to outsiders.

“People comefromallover the world to Humboldt County,and it’sall because of the marijuana, not Bigfoot,”says Bruce Nelson, whoseSentinel Winery produces severalhundred cases of Bigfoot Red everyyear. He’stalking about a youthful cohortofbud trimmers, whostickmostly to the backwoods and produceaharvest of pot thatgoesto legal dispensaries inplacessuch as Oakland and San Jose, and to streetdealers all over thestate.

“We’realittle bittytown that needsto takeadvantage of what we have locally, so we’re thrilled to havesome otherthing for people to focus on,”says Nelson, who retiredtoalife of winemaking after a33-year careerin theCalifornia Highway Patrol. “Bigfoot is awonderful thing forWillow Creek. I’msuregladwe’renot callingourselves Marijuanaville.”

Nelson’sBigfoot blend outsells his otherwine 2-to-1, and he’snot alone in findingacommercial upsidetothe exurbanlegend.

“Weused tobe aloggingand mining town,” says TerriCastner, a volunteerat theWillow Creek-ChinaFlatMuseum, which hasadedicated Bigfootwing,with

I’MSUREGLaDWE’REnOT CaLLINGOURSELVES MaRIJUanaVILLE.’

T-shirtsand a great manyvolumes of conjecture, weirdscience and wishful thinkingin thegift shop—alltokeep the lightson. “There’shardly anyminingnow, and environmentalistsjustabout gotlogging killedoff. Whenthat went down, I guess theystarted looking for something,andBigfoot is whatthey ended up with.” Shepoints to the character’s universality.“You’ve gotBigfoot, you’vegotSasquatch,you’vegot Oh-Mah,you’vegotYeti, you’ve gottheAbdominalSnowman,” Castner says, conferring a six-pack upon theAbominableSnowman. “They’re all over theworld.”

When the museum openedin 1989, itfeaturedartifacts from the loggingandmining beginnings ofwhatwas originallynamed China Flatbecauseofthenumber ofChinesewhocametowork themines. After a local collector ofBigfoot “evidence”died, his widow donatedto themuseum all the material—mostly replicas, strands of hair and theever-popular plasterof Paris foot casts —he had been pilingup.Butfor all its proximity to the stomping grounds supposedly favoredby the2,000 ape men estimated by expertstobe on the prowlin North America,the museum is not taken very seriouslybythe species’tirelesscadre of“researchers.”

Animal Planet, the cable network, has run programs on Bigfoot thathavetransformedWillow Creekinto a mini-monster tourist destination.But Al Hodgson,who helped co-found themuseum and who usedtokeep plaster impressions of the creature’sfeetonthe counter at hisgeneralstore, has retreatedfromactive involvement in the exhibit, leavingittothe smaller BigfootDiscoveryProject in Felton —andother outpostsof scientificSasquatchery — tosend gumshoes intothe woods looking for Bigfeet.

Nelson, who isamemberof theWillow Creek town board, believes there wasneveraconscious decision bylocalmerchants to cash in on their shaggybeast. Butthere wasamoment in 2003 when thetownturnedallits energiestoward conveningan International Bigfoot Symposium. “Atfirst,we thought, ‘Why don’t we trytohold a Bigfoot sympo-

sium?’”recalls MarcRowley,who runs the impressively upscale Coho Cottages, wheremyfamily and I stayed.“Then somebody said, ‘Why notmake it an internationalsymposium?’Andthen somebody said, ‘Hey,maybe we cangetJaneGoodallto come!’”

Thelegendaryprimatologist seemedan unlikely addition to the roster of eccentricsand goofballs alreadycommitted to thesymposium. But,as it turned out, somebodyin Willow Creek knew somebody who knew somebody who knewGoodall, and before anybody could believe it,the granddame ofthe ape world hadsaid she would come. “Wecouldn’tbelieveit,” Rowley

says, “butshe almost showed up.” Almost. Infact, inan interview on National PublicRadio the year beforethe symposium, Goodall insistedBigfootdidexist.“Well, I’m aromantic, so Ialways wanted themtoexist,” sheconceded finally.At the last minute,Tanzania invited Goodallto aceremony to haveagame preserve named after her the sameweekshe was supposedto be in Willow Creek, and onceagainBigfootcame up flat-footed.

Thesymposiumwasconsidered a hugesuccess,attracting researchers whosecredibility stemmedlargely from thedisproportionate numberofBigfoot sightings they seemedtoexperi-

ence relative to thenonresearcher population. The town,which hasfewer than 2,000 residents, swelledinsizeby almost a third, and swelledwith pride.Streufert met famous researchers such as Bob Gimlin andJohnGreen. “Thatwas when Istartedto think theremight besomething to it, rather thanjustacutecultural legend,”he says.“Since then, I’ve had to rethinkthatalot because so many of thereports and beliefs about Bigfoot are franklyludicrous.”

Theconundrum central to thefieldofBigfoot study is, of course,an almosttotal lack of documentation thatwould supportthe species’ existence. A

The Bigfoot Motel (singlesfor $77;doubles for an additional $11)anchors “downtown”

WillowCreek on HIghway299.

number of famous hoaxers have furthermuddiedtheground upon whichthe creature’splaster of Paris pedigree—andproblematicpedicure —is based.But Lee-Ann Brander,who nextyear will celebratethe20th anniversaryof the Bigfoot Burger sheand her husband serveatEarlyBird, believes everytoe shebakes into theFrench breadbun is basedon areal, hairy whopper.

Backin the days when the restaurant soldBigfootDonuts, glazed in the shapeofsomething biggerand badder thanabear claw,Brander’sfather-in-law arrivedearly inthe morning to begin baking,andonemorning he heard a noisethatsounded

like screaming.“The local fish and game guy camein,whiteasa sheet,” Brandersays.“After a few minutes, hesaid, ‘IsweartoGod Ijustsaw Bigfoot.’ Hesaid he had gonedown tochecktheweirthat countsthefish,and he said he could smellsomething awful. He went out toward the weir,and as he gotcloser,the smell was overpowering.Hestartledsomething, and it ran away.”

TheBigfootBurger, which weighs 1½poundsand costs $8.49,doesn’tcome with the ghastly smell thatsomewho claim tohaveencountered the bipedbeastgot windof. The dish hasbeensuch asuccess that at theBigfootRestaurant they’re

town’smostcelebratedresident,a visualnarrative of Bigfoot’swork building homes and cultivating the gardens of Native American tribes. The mural took artist Duane Flatmoalmost twoyears to complete.“Theoriginal sightings wereright herein town,” explains MikeBackman, the store’smanager. “Thatwas beforeit wasvogue. Before everybody had one.”

There has beenverylittle local resistanceto Bigfooting, although not long ago theBigfoot Golf and Country Clubinexplicably changed itsname to Willow Creek Golf and Country Club. Members may have realizedthat onceyou getpast theelusive creature, thewordcan have manyallusive meanings. To be “bigfooted”is to have someone who presumablymakes abigger imprinton the world than you do puttheir foot upyour aspirations. If, onthe other hand, you are the bigfoot brought in to solve some problem that hasvanquished lessermortals, well, your big feet are in clover.

Themantle of Willow Creek’s Bigfootbigfoot has fallen to Streufert, who is part of a research projectthat hasplacedmore than adozen surveillance cameras in the woodsofBluffCreek.He is adefenderof the faith, while maintaining a healthyskepticism about both thecreature and the commercialismthathas become amorefamiliar part ofBigfoot’s identitythan hisfootprints.

thinking of addingaburger with toes of theirown. Waitress Jurnie Wildersays hersisteroncesaw Bigfootat their homein Hoopa, whichisn’tfar from theBluff Creekclearing wherethe famous filmwasshot. At first, she thought abear was rummaging through thetrash, Wilder says,buther sister’sfamiliaritywithBigfoot shows on cable TVhelped herdiscern whatwas reallyhappening.

“Allof asudden it stood upon twolegsandwalkedoff,”Wilder says. “My sister says bears don’t walk on their twofeetunless they’rein the circus.”

Across thehighway,the Ace Hardware store offers amassive tableau in keepingwiththe

“If Iseemprickly, it’sbecause thereare a lot of peoplewho come around hereand justwant to make ajoke of it all,” Streufert says. “There are so manypeople cominghere seekingto exploit the legendofBigfoot, to ridiculeit. There’sasense of humoraboutit here,though. Alot of locals have played pranks on outsiders, and I think a lot of these reports offootprints and stuff gobackto that. Thedesire tohoax the outsider.”

Streuferthas agraduate degree in literature from Humboldt State. Hecame toWillow Creek for thewaters. “I didn’tmove up here to beinvolved in Bigfoot,” he says sadly. “Itjust sort of took over mylife.”

CONTACTBRUCENEWMAN

AT408-920-5004.FOLLOW HIMATTWITTER.COM/ BRUCENEWMANTWIT.

Twoblocks away from the BigfootMotel, a 25-footredwood sculpture of Bigfootstands tall outsidethe WillowCreekChina Flat Museum.

Dancewithfirein SantaCruz

Wanttoaddfireto yourlife?If you’rein SantaCruz any Sunday eveningaround dark,go tothe lighthouse,where fire dancers (withbatons andhula hoops) cavorttotherhythmofwhatever drummers show up. BYOdrum,ifyou want. It’saSanta Cruz happening thathas beengoingonfor years. Noneed to bring weed,justwander inand breathedeeply.

Hiketo...aplanecrash?

Goon a treasurehunt for a bit of BayArea and trans-Pacificaviation historywithahike in ElCorte de MaderaCreek OpenSpace Preserve.Thebackground:OnOct. 29, 1953, aplane inthelastleg of a flight from SydneytoSanFrancisco crashed in the Santa CruzMountains, killingatotal of 19people on board.

Thehike tothe debrisleftbySan MateoCounty’s worst aviationaccident is a moderatetrek about 2 miles into the mountains.

Fordetailsandastory aboutanAustralianman’strekto thesite of thecrash,whichkilledthefatherheneverknew,go tohttp:// bayareane.ws/1ER5TH1.

ExploreourownRockCity

It’snot Detroit, but it’sstillprettycool.Kidslove to climb onthe uniquerockformations atRock City,on MountDiablo. Formedbyerosion,the areahas unusually largesandstone formations and small caves. Hikethere fromthe south entranceto thepark, then follow the Summit Trailpastthe Live Oakcamping area. It’sashortwalk away.Itcangethotduringsummer months, so makesure youbring water.

Fordetails, call925-837-2525.

Goforasoakin Berkeley

Noshirt?Noshoes?No swimwear?No problem.

Formanyyears,skinny-dippers havebeencomingto abackyard in Berkeleyfor asecretsoak. In1975, the Essex HotTubwas built, and sincethen, ithashosted tens of thousands of visitors. It isopen towomen; men are welcome, too, but they must beaccompanied by a woman. Accessingthe spotinvolves acomplicated codesystem, in which everyonehastheir own number. Smokinganddrugsare notallowed, and there’sano-talking rule.

SeekouttheFairyDoor

Forasurreal experience,head to Golden GatePark in SanFrancisco andsearch forthefantastical Fairy Door,putthere byactualfairies (people say).Kids bring trinketstoleavefor the fairies, and the search, similar to a treasure hunt,is funbutchallenging. While you’rein the park,hit the Japanese Tea Garden (75 HagiwaraTea Garden Drive). Andif you goon a Sunday,bring bikes,andyoucan tool all aroundthe park when it’sclosedtocars. Then grab a bite and abeer atPark Chalet(1000 Great Highway), at the western edge ofthe park, nearOcean Beach.

FordetailsontheFairyDoor,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JCeQFi.

Dropsomecoinon thewharf

AmidthetouristyhustleandbustleofFisherman’s Wharf isthis gem: MuseeMecanique, hometo one of the largestprivately owned collections of coin-operatedmechanicalmusical instrumentsand arcade machines. Theplace is home to more than200 machines, andthey’re inworkingorder. MuseeMecaniqueis on Pier45, at the foot ofTaylor Street, and admission is freeeveryday.

Fordetails, go tohttp://museemecaniquesf.com.

Putanewspinon ‘dinnerdate’

Thefood atthis Pacifica TacoBellis exactlywhat you’dexpect.What setsthisoneapartis its location. “Romantic”and“fastfood” are probablyrarely uttered inthesame sentence,except perhapswhen talking about the Pacificafranchise, which is directly on the beach and, naturally,affords fantasticviews of the ocean. ShareaNacho Bell Grande withyour sweetie, andflirt using hot saucepackets.

5200CoastHighway.For details, call650-355-4210.

MakesomeNatureFriends

Top:Ayoung climberrappelsdown the back side of SentinelRock atRockCity.

Above:Afiredancer performs at theSanta Cruz lighthouse onaSundayevening.

Established in 1912, the MountTamalpais branchof theAustria-basedFriendsof Nature organization is amembers-only club thatwelcomes nonmembers on selectedweekends.Theclub’sthreeannual festivals are opento thepublic andfeatureapolka band, traditional dances, heartyfoodand thirst-quenchingbeer. Upcomingeventsinclude oneson July19 and Sept. 20.

Fordetails, go tohttp://touristclubsf.org.

Customers“with sandy feet”are urged to order at the walk-up window onthe restaurant’s wraparound deck.

Above: Onlookers ponder their options: freejazz,cheap tacos orvintage clothing.

What’sthebestfreeweeklyjazzconcertona sidewalkinfrontofaSalvationArmystorenexttoatacotruck?

Easy:That’sHipsteria, a band thatsprawlsout along ValenciaStreetat theotherwise charmless cornerof Cesar Chavez StreeteverySaturdayin the Mission, 11a.m.-5p.m. Therelative absenceoffoot traffic only makesiteven more fun to stumble upon. Funkiness might be vanishing from the neighborhood, but Hipsteria proves it’snotallgone. —Chris Colin

Farand near left: Brian Lino sings and plays the keyboard for Hipsteria.

Middle:Luis Perez playsthe drums.

PHOTOGRAPHSBY DOUGDURAN

RelivetheeraoftheDead

Tuckedin a 1,400-square-footroomknown as Dead Central on themain floor ofUCSanta Cruz’sMcHenryLibrary,this treasure troveoftheGratefulDead empiredocuments 30 yearsofperforming, from concert postersto backstagepassesto photos and press clippings. Even ifyour Grateful Deadconcert attendancecount isnot so respectable, theexhibit descriptions areenough to allow evenlightweight Dead fans a colorful insight into the history of the band.

Fordetails, gotohttp://library.ucsc.edu/grateful-dead-archive.

Sidleuptoagreasyspoon

Wantataste ofnostalgia?Go toHazel’sDrive In in Antioch, whichhasthe feel of aset from “Happy Days.”Thehamburgers here come invarious sizes and getasbig as dinnerplates — perfectfor sharing withfriends. The milkshakes comein a varietyofunusual flavors,such aspeanutbutter and banana, and, like any great old-fashionedshake,are served with extrainametal container.

1820W.10th St.

Playsailor,andsingthepart

Once amonth, the National Park Servicelets average citizens play seadog,allowing would-be sailors to hopon board a lovinglypreservedhistoricship dockedatHydeStreetPier for the Chantey Sing. Parkrangersleadguests in a singalong of traditional sea chanteys in thebelly ofthe boat, andhotapple cideris providedto keepeveryonetoastywarm. And keepyour classicSan Francisco experiencegoing by stopping atthe nearbyBuena VistaCafefor an Irish coffeeafterward. Reservations are requiredfor the singalong.

2905HydeSt.For details, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1EDk00w.

BeAlameda’spinballwizard

Needapinballfix?Go toPacific PinballMuseum, on WebsterStreetin Alameda,wherehundredsof machinesawait.Don’tworry—youdon’tneeda pocketful of quarters. It’sjust $15for unlimitedplay for adults.

1510WebsterSt.Fordetails,goto www.pacificpinball.org.

Dancethenightaway

PieRanchis asustainable, community-minded farm in gorgeous seasidePescadero. Inadditiontorunning aCSA,Pie Ranch offers farmer training and foodeducationprograms. On thethird Saturdayofthe month, guestscanparticipatein aworkdayandtour, ending in apotluck and barn dance.Apatientcaller explains dances tothe crowd before everyoneisinvited to swing their partner ’round to spiritedlive music.

By the end ofthe evening,eventhe shyestwallflowers will findthemselvesgrinningear to ear as theydance withstrangersandfriends alike. This family-friendly event is alcohol-free, and RSVPs are required.

2080CabrilloHighway.For details, go towww.pieranch.org.

Apinball machine fromthe 1950s is oneof hundredsatthe Pacific PinballMuseum.

ON HAZEL’S

The WillyBurger, thesizeof a plate —or in the wordsof one Yelpreviewer, “a manhole cover” —isafavoriteat this diner open since1947.

Dancersof all agesand skill levels are welcome to take a turn at the monthlybarn danceatthe Pie Ranch in Pescadero.

Buybargainbooks,guilt-free

Abook isaman’sbest friend. Forproof of that,head to FortMason Center’sdayslong Spring BookSale, wherebibliophilesdescend each yearto pick through the massiveassortment of paperbacks andhardcovers of all genres.

Amid thecountless castoff copies of “Twilight”and “Eat PrayLove”are hidden gems and time-tested classics — this year’slot includedahandsome hardbound Dickenscollection and works by authors ranging from James JoycetoE.L.James.Andthe event, which raises moneyfor the San Francisco Public Library,is so packed, no one will noticeif a copyof “50 Shades” “slips”intoyour cart.

Can’twait until spring?The five-day Big BookSale, also atFortMason Center, kicksoff Sept.16. Everything is $3orless,and, likeattheSpringBookSale,all items remainingonthe last dayare $1.Can’tbeatthat.

2Marina Blvd.For details, go tohttp://www.friendssfpl.org.

Setup shop(withasurfboard)

Can’tpartwith your laptop—orsurfboard—on overnight trips? Both are encouragedat Surf Office, auniquelodging and co-work space that’ssteps from alegendarysurfbreak onSanta Cruz’sspectacular Westside. Entrepreneurs, freelancersanddigital nomads bang out business plans during theday and link up for social events atnight. Inthemorning, hit the wavesor justsurf theWeb.The space isopen to all who want a scenicescape withthe option of getting some work done come Monday morning. (ATahoe location is comingsoon, we’re told,forwintersports enthusiasts.)

Fordetails, go towww.thesurfoffice.com.

PlanahuntforBigfoot

Northern California is primeBigfoot country,andthe curatorof this quirky,one-room museum can tell you all about it. Nestledinthe small, tree-filled community of Felton, theBigfootDiscoveryMuseumis a 15-minute hopfromSantaCruz,andit’ssaid you can hearSasquatchrootingaroundin theforest. Takea photo with the massive woodenBigfootoutside,then head indoors to ogle Bigfoot art, artifacts andmemorabilia. Afterward, head to the nearbytavern,Monty’s LogCabin(5755Highway 9), forabeer onthe patioto discusstacticsforspottingthe legendyourself.

5497 Highway9. Fordetails,goto bigfootdiscoveryproject.com.

ON BIGFOOT

Formoreonthe legend of Bigfoot, turn to Page26 to readBruce Newman’stale of the extreme Northern California town built aroundthe legend.

VisitadiconsatBellPlastics

Witnessthe Bay Area’slargestcollection of fiberglass advertisingicons atthis fun Hayward plasticsshop. Owner Bruce Kennedy welcomes visitors from all over the world to marvelat histowering Doggie Diner heads, Bob’sBig Boy andmufflermen — the Paul Bunyan-sized guardians of roadside businesses of yore. Oneperkofowningaplastic shop?Fabricating bobblehead versions—which visitors can takehome —ofthe figures.

2020NationalAve.For details, go tohttp://bellplasticsfabrication.com.

Workers unload thebody of Big Mike theMuffler Man at BellPlastics in Hayward.Big Mike stoodtallalong MissionBoulevarduntil 2011.

All theSasquatch newsthat’sfittoprint lives inadisplayat the Felton museum.

EUREKAINTERVIEW

Sleuthinginthecity

CONVERSATIONWITHJAYSONWECHTER ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

of walkingtour — aproactive, brain-flexing one.

Once a year, morethan athousand urbanadventurers take tothe streetsofSan Franciscofor some funandspirited sleuthing known asthe Chinese NewYearTreasure Hunt. Competing infourdivisions, ranging from beginnerto expert, participantsteamup to solve mind-boggling clues thatleadto offbeat locationsconnectedwithlocalhistory,artand culture. Teams solving the mostclues inthe shortesttime rulethe day.Wespoketo founderJayson Wechter, aSan Francisco private investigator, togetaninsidelook atthisone-of-a-kindevent.

What inspiredyou tostart this in the first place?

Ihad done treasurehuntswith other kidswhile growing up in Brooklyn.I’vealwaysbeen interested inexploring urban environments and history.Andinmywork as a privateinvestigator,Icertainly understand thejoy of thataha! moment — whenyou suddenly see something moreclearly.

So itallsprang fromthat?

Yeah, itwasaway of giving people that experience inamore playful way.Each clue is apuzzle that leads to aparticular location. Youhave togo tothatlocation to find somethingthathelpsyou to answer a question posedinthe clue — something thatcan onlybe answeredbybeingthere.

Howdo you determinethedegree of difficulty? And do you everfeel guiltyfor makingcertain clues toodifficult?

Actually,I’veoccasionally gotten some feedback sayingthatit’snot hard enough. I testall the clues out onmy friends beforehand togeta feelforwhat’sappropriate. All the clues are designed to betoo difficultto be solvedby asingle person. Ittakes ateam effort.Generally, if youknow how to use a map and a streetindex,you cando this.

Canyou give usan example of a reallytoughone?

One of the mostdifficult clues everhappened to bethe shortest

one:Itwas acapital E followedby thenumeral 2.

What theheck?OK, Igiveup. Itreferredto EngineCompanyNo. 2(the firstfirehouseto be rebuilt in the downtown district afterthe earthquake of 1906).

Oh,so tricky!

Ithink onlyone or two teams gotit.Iactually offeredupahint earlierin the day,beforethe hunt. Iwas beinginterviewedona radio show,andtheshow’spianist played the song “When Smoke Getsin YourEyes.”

Nice.Besides thetreasurehunting competition, you’ve alsogot contests for best team names andbestcostumes, right?

Yeah, lastyear it wasthe Yearof theHorse, and one team got all dressed up likethe horse-head knight pieces onachessboard.That was prettyfunny—and clever.

Clearly, alot of peoplehavehad ablastwith this eventover the years. Butwhatdoyou getout of the experience?

Forfourhoursonthatoneday, I’m the mostscrutinizedwriterin San Francisco. People are paying attentiontoevery sentence, every comma, I’vewritten. That’spretty gratifying. AndIlove showing people the city.It’sbasicallyawalking tour in theguise ofagame.

Yes,and it’savery differentkind

LEARNMOREATWWW.SFTREASUREHUNTS.COM

Itshifts the way yougetout and experience the environment, and that’sabig part of thefun. Itforces youtolook up anddown, and at things you normally might not pay attention to.And hopefully,it gets peopleto come away with a greater appreciationof the city.

Afterdoingthis for somany years, how do youstay motivated andkeepthings fresh?

Everyyear, I find something new.I just startwalking thestreets, and something will catchmy attention. Maybe it’sanew piece of public art. Maybeit’savestigeofthe past that I didn’tknow about or an interesting visualdisplay in a storefront window.Sometimes, I’ll even create myownhistorical markers for thenight.

Oh, really?Howdoes that work?

There are a number of historical spots thatshould be marked but aren’t. So Icreate temporarymarkers. Once, I learnedthe location of thefirst bridge in SanFrancisco. It was built in 1847 over alittle creek. Ifound that interesting.Here’sa city known for its bridges, but no one knows about thevery firstone.

And there’sno slowing youdown?

I’llkeep doing it foras long asIcan. There’stremendous enthusiasm for it.People keepcoming back.

Howdoyouthinkyou would fareinone of thesehunts?

Iguessit dependson whomy teammates were,but, truthfully, I’m notabig puzzleaficionado. I’ll doacrossword puzzle with my wifenow and then, but I’m not hookedonthem.

Oh, theirony.

WITHBREATHTAKINGVIEWS, POINTREYES ISALANDOFPEACEFULPERFECTION

Iknew itwhenwepassed theBuddha barn onPoint Reyes-Petaluma Road. Iknewitwhen a snowy egret flew besideusaswedrovethrough thehilly California countrysidewiththetop down on ourconvertible, and whenwespotted the oyster bedspokingout of TomalesBay.But when abright yellow“You’veArrived”sign greetedusaswe pulledupto Manka’s InvernessLodge, Istill felt a surgeof anticipation.Wehad found ourDestinationRelaxation, one of Northern California’smost treasured getaways to melt away themadnessthat canenvelopourSiliconValley lives.

Celebrating our 20th wedding anniversary,myhusband, Chris, and I hadthe opportunity for a romanticweekend getaway,achance to redeem our first attempt: a trip to Cabo San Lucas thatwas spent fending off time-sharehucksters and searchingforsigns of an authenticMexicanexperience.

Tofind apeaceful vacation a short drive from theBay Area,the possibilitiesareendless.Monterey Bay,to the south, is always a favorite, but Tomales Bay,just an hour north of San Francisco, held abit of mystery for me.

Iwasn’tlooking for full-body massages andcedarenzyme baths, althoughboth were at theready.Instead, Iwantedto immerse myself inthe culture of this unspoiled, pastoral placeand pretend, if only for 2½days, that Ibelongedhere.

Fromcharmingaccommodations and finediningto apicniclunch on a sheep farm and breathtaking hikesthrough the wind-sweptPoint ReyesNational Seashore, we foundthe peace and beauty we hadsought.Along the way,weexperienced an earthy communitythat canbesummed up in a simplestreetscenein Point ReyesStation: Ayoga studio shares spacewith a haybarn that’sacross thestreetfrom a bakerydown the way fromafarm stand thatrelies on the honor system for payment.

Thisis locavore heaven,aplace that celebrateslocal food, from its gourmet cheeses produced at the organicdairiesnestledintothe countryside tothe grass-fedbeef on themenuatSir andStar, atthe old Olema Inn, to thewaterbuffalo milk gelatoyoucanbuysoft servefor $1.69 behind the butcher counter at the PalaceMarket.

It’snot exactly as mywisecrackingengineerhusbandconjured up as we headednorth from San Jose: “IsthereanApple Store,”

At left: En route to thePointReyes Lighthouse, Valerie Martin, of Montreal, stops under wind-swept cypresstreesto pose foraphoto for her travel companion.

Previouspage: Nick’sCove Restaurantand Oyster Bar Boat Shack sitsatthe endofapier on TomalesBay. Here, patronscan watch the sunset, play anupright pianoand order food and drinks fromawallmountedphone.

he asked, “forlocally sourced consumer electronics?”

WE STARTED OURTRIP

Sunday morning at thefamed Cowgirl Creameryindowntown Point ReyesStation, wherewe learnedthat“bloomy rind” isanother term used for soft-ripened cheese.There, we metElizabeth Hill, who operatesWestMarin Foodand Farm Tours, with whom we had bookedher“Quattro Formaggio” tour — abehind-thescenes invitationto local dairies.

Iwas looking for authenticity, but as soon as we walkedoutside to getinto her shuttle van, I wonderedwhetherthe scenethat unfoldedwasstaged.

“Hey,Elizabeth,” a handsome farmer in awhitetruckcalled out as heslowed. “We’re going clam diggingwiththe kids!”

Thefarmer was Loren Poncia, who raises some of the best grassfedcattle in the valley on his Stemple CreekRanch, outsideoftown. Foramoment,Ifelt like Angela Lansbury in Cabot Covewith the incredibleurgetojumponan old bicycle with abasketand wave back.

Theday became even moresurreal when, justas wenearedour first dairy onthe tour, sheriff’s deputies turned us back onHighway 1,which runsalongtheeasternedgeof TomalesBay.There was an accidentahead:Amilk truck failed to navigate abend in the road and toppledover. Amilk truck? Really?

“Country problems,” Hillsaid, shruggingher shoulders.

Days later,Iwouldreturn for that tour —and meetfarmer Andrew Zlot, who milks the water buffalo athisDouble8Dairy for the creamy gelato.(Notonly isit sold behindthe butcher counter atthe Point Reyes Station market, but Zlot personally deliverscrates of it to San Francisco’sFourBarrel

Rental cottages that overlook the water at Nick’sCove are amongthe most prized accommodationsinTomales Bay.

‘IWANTED TOIMMERSE MYSELFINTHE CULTUREOF THISUNSPOILED, PASTORALPLACE ANDPRETEND, IFONLYFOR 2½DAYS,THATI BELONGEDHERE.’

Coffee, wherebaristas make affogato —scoops of his gelatodrownedin espresso.)

TOMALESBAYISBUSTLING on weekends. Cyclistsin fullLycra regalia clog thecountry roads two deep. Parkedcars line the shoulders of the highway near theoysterfarms. Locals andtouristsalikeline up at theBovine Bakeryfor stickymorning buns.

It’salot for an unincorporated town, especially one thatresists change. Locals hereturned down an offer to install a sewagesystem, afraid it would spark unwanteddevelopment, thenfoundtheirseptic tanks unable to handlethegrowingdemand. At the heightoftourist seasonlast summer, thepristinetownthat can almost beforgiven forbelievingtheir manure doesn’tstink was forcedto park portable toiletsarounddowntown.

There’salso atangible feeling of local lament here. Hand-paintedblue signs still hang on fence poststhat say “Saveour Drakes Bay Oyster Co.,” eventhoughthe familythatran itlost itshigh-profile legal battlelastyear to renewits lease on the Point Reyes NationalSeashore, where thefarm had operatedfor decadesbeforethe area became a national park.

Locals talk about the fire that destroyed theoldlodgeat Manka’s, wherePrince Charles and Camilla oncestayedand dined, asthoughit happened months ago.It has been 10 years.

And folks are still harumphing attherequestbyPandora music founder TimWestergrentobuildan 8,300-square-foot vacationcompound —with atleast10 bathrooms —inthe woods of Inverness onceowned by prayerfulmonks.

“It looks like averytranquil, rural community,but there’salotgoing on,” saidLindaPetersen,who just retiredaspublisher of the WestMarin Citizen newspaper. “That’swhy we had twonewspapers for eightyears. There’salot to writeabout.”

ANDTHERE’S STILLALOT to enjoy.Within minutes of turning around on the highway,Hillhad us nibblingon local cheesesand chutneys and Brickmaidenbreadsand eatingsucculent barbecuedoysters raisedandservedat the HogIsland OysterCo. It’sone oftwofarmsalong theeastern edgeof Tomales Bay that beckon tourists with picnic tables and

Fromtop left: Roasted marshmallows; adog at the lighthouse; a Chevy pickup by TomalesBay;hikersnear Chimney Rock; awornfisherman sculpture and aruggedpicketfence;wildflowers; Salted Caramel PotdeCremeatNick’s Cove Restaurant and Oyster Bar; weathered boards on a boat named “PointReyes”andabright nautical light.

oystersby the dozen.

“Getyour barbecue oysters while they’rehot!”calledout oneHog Island shuckerfromanoystershack near the beachservingup bivalves and beveragesto abigSunday crowd.

Visitorsare invited to bring picnics and grill their ownmeat onopen grills andshuck theirown oysters on a cherished fewtables closestto thewater thatcan be reserved for$5 per person inadvance for mornings or afternoons. Oryou can buythem shuckedand ready and grab anopen table.

Similar frivolitiescan befounda few minutes down thehighway at Tomales BayOysterCo.,where reservedtablesfor picnicking also book months in advance and carryafee.

ThenearbyMarshall Storealso is acasual, fun spot to stop for lunch or dinneroverlooking thebay,as is Nick’sCove, which offers pricy cottages on thewater for overnight staysand a mostly local menu atits restaurant (althoughit imports some oystersfromBaja).The must-experience,however,isthe Boat Shackat Nick’s Cove, asmall, rusticboathouse atthe endofapier juttingintothe bay from therestaurant. Here, you canwatchthe sunset, playanupright piano andorderdrinksand dinner from a wall-mounted phone that rings to the bar.

When we stepped inside,Billie Holiday wassinging “(InMy)Solitude” on thesmall stereo. Chris stokeda fire inapotbellystove.We satdown atone of just a couple oftables and enjoyed our cocktails. Heaven.

Inmuchof Tomales Bay,you are just aslikely to meetaginghippies telling storiesoftheirdays in acult as you areyounghipstersfrom San Francisco wholook liketheyspend their weekdays commuting on Google buses. At the BoatShack, wemeta creative directorfor PotteryBarn who was orchestrating a photo shoot for itsfall catalog just upthe road near Dillon Beach.We spent the evening chattingwithher teamaswe atemore oysters and finishedwith homemade s’mores we roasted over an open fire.

THEREARENO BIG HOTELS here—no Ritz-Carltons nor Four Seasons, and especially no low-budget Motel 6s.This isaplace ofcottages and inns — and even a yurt. Someof the local ranches areopening their bunkhouses and farmhouses on Airbnb, whereguests canbeawakened

Fromleft: Artichokes atTable Top Farm’s honorsystem farm stand; whale bones with layered sedimentrock nearthe lighthouse;rusted electrical boxes; dairy cows; barbecue oysters on thegrill; a brown pelican wingfrom a taxidermy display;chairson a pier; asucculent; aboatstuckin themud inTomales Bay; thelighthouse infog; redalgae on rocks.

by bleating sheepcomingin for amilking.Prices rangefrom the high $100sto $300sper night at many places and evenmorefor fabledplaces likeNick’s Coveand Manka’s.

When we “arrived”at Manka’s, wewere escortedtoour cabin,where a handwritten note from MargaretGrade—who owns Manka’swith her husband, Daniel DeLong —greetedus. The rooms herevaryfromcozy with fireplacesand leather chairs to larger cottages. Westayed our second night atthe Fisherman’s Cabin, wheresoothingnature musicwaftedthrough thehunting lodge-stylespace decoratedwith antlers and overstuffedchairs and agreatfeather-toppedbed for deep sleeping.Perhapsthemost indulgentfeature was the private outdoor showerwith therainfall showerhead. Itwaseasy to forget thedrought as I looked up at the redwoodcanopyand watched birds flyoverhead.

Breakfast isserved in abasket atyour doorstepwith a creative note describing thehyperlocal fare within.Chriscalleditthe best continentalbreakfast he’s“ever,

ever,ever”had: “Inverness apples pressed foryour pleasureand servedalongside housemade yogurt over wild West Marin honey under our granola and moreapple —with bunsthatjust jumpedout of the oven.”

At the Fisherman’sCabinthe second morning, wealsowere treatedto“Eva’seggs scrambled withlocal goat’smilkcheese and crowned with crisped prosciutto, thanks to Dr.Pasternak’s pig.”

Thatwouldbefarmer Mark Pasternak’s pig fromDevil’sGulch Ranchinnearby Nicasio.

Ittook years, but after the lodge burneddown, Gradeand DeLongfinally opened theSirand Star restaurant atOlema, an old innthey beautifullyupdated. On themenu, you can find“faux gras of local duck liversso deliciousit shouldbeillegal.”

THECOMMUNITIES OF POINT

ReyesStation, Olema and Inverness serveasgateways tothePoint ReyesNational Seashore, a vast expanse of rolling hills and rugged coastlinecovered inspring with wildflowers. Wespent our second morning drivingpasthistoric ranches datingback to the1850s and out to thePoint ReyesLighthouse,at the very tipofthe headlands thatjut 10 milesouttosea. Thisis thewindiestspot along the Pacific Coastandthesecond-foggiestplacein North America. Thenice walkto theedge ofthe lighthouse requiredhiking up and down stairs theequivalent of a 30-story building,whichis not as rigorous as it sounds. (My husband was determinedtoget back to the topbefore an old lady withacane did.)

Wecould havestayed aweek atTomales Bay,exploring the tiny towns of Point Reyes Station, Olema andTomales and spendingmore timeat the PointReyes NationalSeashore. Before we lefttown, we stopped at Cowgirl Creameryfor someRedHawk cheese, with itsbloomyrind, and freshfromageblanc, as wellasthe Bovine Bakery forgingercookies. Itwas our small wayofbringing alittle

CONTACTJULIAPRODISSULEK

AT408-278-3409. FOLLOWHER ATTWITTER.COM/JULIASULEK.

At left: Seals lounge ona beach atthe footofChimney Rock inPoint Reyes National Seashore. The Chimney Rock area ispopular amonghikers thanks toits wildflowers, wildlifeand, of course, stunning ocean views.

bit of Tomales Bayhome withus.

1.PointReyes Station 2.Manka’sLodge 3.PointReyes Lighthouse

4. Nick’sCove 5.TomalesFarmsteadCreamery

MAPBYDAVEJOHNSON

Takerefugein Carmel

Youcanfillyour dayswith wine tasting and shoppingin Carmel’sadorable downtown, but the place to really unwindis this unusual spa, where blissedout guestswander from eucalyptus steam bathsto burbling hot pools, Pacific-temperatureplungepools and thermal waterfalls. Noreservations, no worries, no limits — plan onspendingatleastafew hours, but you’rewelcometospendthe day in the poolsor draped languorously in an Adirondack chair, swathed in asnowy white robe and contemplating themajesty of the mountain views.Spa-aaahh.

27300Rancho SanCarlosRoad. Fordetails, gotowww.refuge.com.

Zenoutin Saratoga

Needaplace toZen out? Head to Saratoga’s Hakone Estate&Gardens, said tobe theoldest Japaneseestate, retreatand gardensin theWestern Hemisphere. Haveasip atthe traditional tea house,checkoutthe koipond, orsimplytakein allthebotanical beauty.

21000BigBasinWay.

Fordetails, call408-741-4994 orgo towww.hakone.com.

Peepsealsat AñoNuevo

HikeAño Nuevo State Parkin Pescaderofor the beautiful views,interestinghistory and education. Makeitan unforgettable outing by making it a point to see, up close andpersonal, thegiantelephant seals inhabitingthebeaches. Signupforawalking tour, and learn about the portly pinnipeds.

Fordetails, call 650-879-2025 or goto http://bayareane.ws/1R4blc1.

PedalonChilenoValleyRoad

Savethe round-trip fare to Europe for a pedalcloser to home that’sjust asbeautiful asany backroadin Franceor Italy. Chileno Valley Road, near Petaluma, is one of themostscenic cycling roads in theBay Area. Ithas rollingtopography,smoothpavement and usually not much traffic. The hidden highway canbe usedasthecenterpiece for a ride from Petaluma to seeaSanta CruzWarriors D-League basketball game. Youcanaccessthe road from Spring Hill,Tomales Petaluma or Tomales roads.

Bird-watchin Richmond

Sometimes, nothing canbeatan easy, low-keyand cooling outing on ahot day.For justthat,walk along theBayTrail at Stege Marsh in Richmond for spectacular panoramicshoreline views,as well as some of the best bird-watchinginthe area. The marshis north of Point Isabel, andyoudon’thave todealwithtraffic issues to getthere. Simply takethe Bayview overpass across Interstate 580from Carlson Boulevard, turn leftat thefour-way intersection, park inthe cul-desac atSouth51stStreet,thentakethe “secret”path leading to thetrail.Thisis theBay Trail, so walks can be as shortor long as you want to tailor them. Bring binoculars, andkeep an eye out forherons, egrets, avocets andother avianvarietiesfeedingin the marsh.

Fordetails, go towww.pointrichmond.com/baytrail.

Seethelightin PacificGrove

Enlighten yourselfabout a storiedCalifornia landmark bytaking a trip to PointPinos Lighthouse,the WestCoast’soldestcontinuously operatinglighthouse. Thelight, built in 1855 and still an activebeacon, was the second light to be activatedalong California’s then-darkened shoreline. It hasafascinating historythat begins onthe EastCoast, where the light, building materials andinstructions wereshipped around CapeHorn, in South America, and brought to California. Thelightalsohad twomemorablewomen keepers. The first,CharlotteA. Layton, took overafter her husband was killedwhile ridingwith apossein pursuit of abandit.Later, Emily Fish, aka the“Socialite Keeper,”called thatbecauseof her fondnessfor entertaining guestsat thelighthouse, servedas keeper.

80AsilomarAve.Fordetails, go towww.pointpinoslighthouse.org.

Ridetherailsin SuisunCity

ON POINTPINOS

Charles Layton tookup residence at PointPinos in 1954 as the lighthouse’s first keeper. After hisdeath the following year, the city named his wife, Charlotte, to the post, becoming the first female lighthouse keeper on the West Coast.

Park inPescadero.

Takeatrip to thepastat theWestern RailwayMuseum. Themuseum hasdozensofexamples of electric trains andother vintagerailcars initsdisplayareas, but the best part is taking the11-mile round-trip ride along the original track,nowclosed to all traffic but themuseum’s,which once linked San Franciscoand Sacramento. It’sanoddly calmingandenjoyable ride. Themuseum also offersspecial train trips—wine and wildflowers in April and atripto aspecialpumpkin patch setupnear thetracksin thefall.Picnic areas are available, too. 5848 Highway 12.

5848Highway12.

Fordetails, call707-374-2978orgo tohttp://bayareane.ws/1FousIt.

Fromtop: Cherry blossoms and a walking bridge at Hakone Estate& Gardensin Saratoga; anelephant seal at Año NuevoState

Letthewaveslullyouto sleepin theSteepRavinecabinsat MountTam

Theviewsare nothing short of breathtaking,andlet’sface it, that — combinedwithitsproximityto SanFrancisco —iswhy this place is popular.Cabins, of whichthere are 10,run $100 per night andtend to bookupwithin an hourortwoofwhen theybecome available. There’snoelectricity,no running water (except intworecentadditions:bathrooms with flushing toilets!), no services nor food on site. So whatis there,aside fromthatsweeping view ofcrashing wavesand migrating whales?Peace, quiet,seclusion,a wood stove, a grill and surprisingly plenty of room indoors. Each cabin features woodenplatforms for sleepingup tofive(bringair mattresses) and an indoor picnictablewith benches.Acharminghostwill sellyou firewoodfor $8abundle,and it’sclose enough that you can grab preparedfood onyour wayoutoftown,or wander amile north to Stinson Beach forabite afteryou settle in.

Toreserveacabin, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1ETzPSJ.

Fromleft: A short hike leads to a secluded beach justnorth; light hits the ocean-facing side of Cabin No.10 as sunset approaches; and the cliff faces are indeedsteep.

Above: Asliver of sunlight hits the cabinsbefore early-morning fog asserts its dominance. Cabin No. 10 is pictured in theforeground at left.

TEXTANDPHOTOGRAPHSBYTIMBALL

Placeabetontheponies

Wanttoseeone ofthe greatest jockeysofhis era? Watch Russell BazerideatGolden Gate Fields,onthe edge ofBerkeleyand Albany.Whileseeinganyother world-class athletein action couldcost hundreds of dollars,if yougo on Sunday,you can seeBazefor a buck. And withthe live trumpeter,thehorses and thecolorful silks,aday atthe track canbe funfor the wholefamily. You will havetolaylittleJohnny’sbet down for him, though,and settle up in theparkinglot.

1100EastshoreHighway.For details, call510-559-7300.

Explorethecity’sruins

When you hear“ruins,”you mightthinkPompeii, but on the western edge ofSan Francisco, amore modern ruin attracts hikersandsightseers everyday.The skeleton of theoldSutroBaths, an enormous aquariumandpublic swimmingfacilitybuilt in the19th century,sits in a hollow in the cliffsover OceanBeach and servesas areminderof theglorydays ofearly San Francisco. Visitorscan seewhere seven pools onceaccommodated10,000 bathers a day.

680 PointLobosAve.For details,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JLYJ54.

Motor(orpaddle)at DelValle

LakeDel Valle, in Livermore,issurrounded byrolling hillsand—mostimportantly — hits summer temperatures hot enoughtomakeswimming a joyandarelief. And here you don’thave tosettle for a shorelinedip, because amenagerieof boats areavailable to rent. Water lovers can choosefromcanoes,rowboats andpedal boats, but for those who simplywant tosunandswim, thebestoption is the pontoon: a shaded, floating patio withamotor. Putterouttothe middle of the lake,kill themotor,andjump.You’dbe smartto arrive early to scoreoneofthesepopular boats.

Fordetails, gotowww.ebparks.org/parks/del_valle.

Showadatethestars

Pitch woo after dark atChabot Space &Science Center, in Oakland’sredwoodforest. Onceamonth,thecenter hasadiningoption, followedbyanactivity: night hikes,science experiments,amovie —everymonth is different.Who knewsciencecouldbe so romantic?

10000Skyline Blvd.For details,go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1DDAEIi.

EscapethemassesinS.F.

Sure, you couldgreaseup and squeezeinto the mobbed, weed-saturatedhills of Dolores Park on a sunnyday.Or you coulddrive 10 moreminutestoJohn McLaren Park, 312mostly hipster-free acres ofgreen just beyond the Excelsior. Whatever you candoat DoPa,you can do atMcLaren — plus hike,swim, golf and nature-gaze.It’sthesecond-largestpark inSan Francisco, and it’sabout time someonediscovered it.

Fordetails, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1JaIiij.

TraceJackLondon’slife

Theauthorboughthis “BeautyRanch” in 1905and took upfarming —afteralife ofworking on the Oakland waterfront, prospecting gold in Alaska and sailing thePacific.Thispark has morethan 10 miles of trails that meander throughmeadows andoak woodlands, as wellasthe ruins of Jack London’sWolfHouse mansion, Beauty Ranch buildings,amuseum andhis grave.

Fordetails, go tohttp://jacklondonpark.com.

ON McLAREN

The park boasts baseball diamonds, tennis courts,anindoor pool,75picnic tables and a nine-hole golf course.

Catch legendary jockey RussellBaze(above,awaitinghis 49,999th racein2013) at Golden Gate Fields—just a dollar on Sundays.

Boatrentals at LakeDel Vallerun the gamut from kayak tomotorized sun deck.

BatheinSonomaCounty

OsmosisDay Spaand Sanctuaryturnsrelaxation into high art. It offers“CedarEnzyme Baths,”outdoor pagodamassages along the forestedbanks of Salmon Creekandso muchmore.If thatweren’tpeaceful enough, Osmosisalso boasts a Japaneseteagarden and a meditation garden.

209 Bohemian Highway.Fordetails, goto www.osmosis.com.

Teeoffin PacificGrove

Takethe golfclubs toPacific GroveGolfLinks and pay three-fourths of the price ofnearby Spanish Bay,but getthesameviewof theoceanand sanddunesfrom thescenic backnine.Beforeorafter theround,tour thelighthouse, which is nearthe 10th tee. Go downtown for abite atPeppers(170Forest Ave.), IlVecchio (110 CentralAve.)orthenewlyremodeled Beach House atLovers Point (620 Ocean ViewBlvd.).

77Asilomar Blvd.Fordetails, go towww.playpacificgrove.com.

WandertheNilesdistrict

Takeaquestinto Fremont’scinematicpast bywandering throughFremont’sNilesdistrict. Lovers of old films willadore the historicNiles EssanaySilent Film Museum(37417 NilesBlvd.),where Broncho Billyand CharlieChaplin mademovies.

Takeawalking tour to seethe smallhomes where thefilm crew members lived. And there areofferings for antiquers, too: About a dozenlarge shops offer a wide rangeof relics, from finefurnitureto modern kitsch. And don’tmisstheannualAntiqueFaireand FleaMarket, whichis onAug.30this year.Hungry? HaveabiteandaglassofwineatTheVine(37553 NilesBlvd.)—amongsouthern Alameda County’sbest hidden culinarygems.

And for a truly memorable tripback intime,takea scenicride onthe NilesCanyonRailway,on theNational Registerof HistoricPlaces, for a nostalgictaste of small-town America beforethe1960s.

Stepbackintimein PortCosta

Accessible onlybyafewwindy roads from Crockett or Highway 4, Port Costa — a tinycommunityon the edge ofthe Carquinez Strait —is likethe town that time forgot. Stop in TheatreofDreamsto peruse the selection of handmadedecortreasures.

Dine at The BullValley Roadhouse(great cocktails, andthe buttermilkfried chickenand the macaroni gratin are standouts). Haveanightcap or three at the Warehouse Cafe, offering a staggering selectionof beers and, often, live music. And,if you’ve had one too many,holeupfor the night at the The Burlington Hotel,aformer partydestination for out-of-towners that’sknownfor itsrowdy, colorful and, some say, mysterious history (some folks claim theplace is haunted).

Thenext morning, gazeout over the water whileenjoyingbrewed-by-the-cup coffee, pastriesand artisan bacon from thehotel’scafe. Bestofall:All of these places are within a block ofone another — and the water.

The sweepingoceanviewsat Pacific GroveGolfLinks(the12thfairway ispicturedabove) come at a relatively modestprice whencompared to thoseatPebble Beach’sThe LinksatSpanish Bay,justdown theroad,

EUREKAINTERVIEW

Findingtheperfectbeat

CONVERSATIONWITHJANETKOIKE ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

Foryears, Janet Koike, anaccomplishedtaiko drummer,yearnedto establishacozy,laid-backplaceintheBayArea whereresidentscouldcome togethertoshareexperiencesinmusic, dance, theater,film and artseducation. The dream finallycame togethervia Rhythmix CulturalWorks,abustling facility inAlamedathatfeaturesan artgallery, amultipurpose classroom anda160-seat performance space. Koike tooksometime tochatabouthervision forRhythmix andexplain why she continuestopassionatelyfollow the callofthe drums.

Forpeople whoaren’tfamiliar with RhythmixCultural Works, tell us alittleabout yourplace.

It’sabeautiful space, andit’snice and intimate. Youfeellikeyou’re havingavery personal experience withthe performers. It’sareal communityfeeling,butwithquality,high-class arts.

Soundslike agreatspot to just relaxandhang out.

Definitely, and on Wednesdays we haveour ArtJams. Anyone cancome.We encouragepeople to bring something to work on and snacks to share. It’sareally comfortableand supportiveatmospherewhere peoplecanexplore their creative sideand havesome goodconversation.

So how did all thiscomeabout?

Iwas huntingfor a space, and I had lookedat alot of different buildings all over theBayArea. I had evenput bidson anumberof them. But then Isaw this beautiful industrial warehouse right near thewater,andimmediatelyI had buildinglust.

So itwasmeant tobe?

Partof it wasthat I was just charmed byAlameda,maybebecause I didn’tknow much about it. Itwas kind ofmysterious to me— alittle undiscoveredgem.Anyway, Ibought itin2001, butit took a few years tobring it to life. Ihad it renovatedin2007,anditjust turnedintothis reallysweetspace.

Myintentionallalong was to have aplacetouplift people’sspirits, and that’sexactly whatit does.

I’ve heard abouttheseso-called bingoextravaganzas you have there…

Well, I guess theydon’tfall under thebanner of “high-class arts,” but they’revery popular, and they’redefinitely acommunity builder.It’slike apartywith costumes, liveentertainmentand dancing.We have them every other month,andthey’retied to themes.

That sounds nothing likethe old-schoolbingomostof us know about.

(Laughing) Notevenclose. One of our guestsdescribed it asa “mini-vacation” —anightwhere shecan take her mind offwork and otherthingsand justhave some fun.

What kind of personalreward do you getoutof all this?

Ilike tomakethingshappen,and Ilike toconnectwithpeople. To fillaroomwithmusicis an absolute joy to me. Because it’sasmall venue, people are abletohave very intimate experienceshere.

Let’stalkaboutyourtaiko drumming. How didyouget into that?

Yearsago, Isaw some women performing in San Francisco.I thought: “Wow,whatawonderful combination of culture, rhythm and movement.” Iwas mesmerized.

LEARNMOREATWWW.RHYTHMIX.ORG

And you’ve beenpounding away at it ever since.

Yeah, but I play differentlynow. When I wasyounger, I enjoyed the full, all-out expression of what I call“spill-a-gut”playing. Iwent atit as hard as I could. I was verymuchwanting to express myphysicality.Now,that’snot as interesting to me. I’mmoreinto the complexities.Ienjoy creating musicthatcombinesnontraditional instruments with traditional Japanese taiko.

I’ve seen some of yourperformances on YouTube.There is so much energyandexpressivenessand … Shameless mugging?

Yousaid it, not me.

Iremember onereviewerwho wrote, “I haven’tseenasmany unabashedsmiles sincethe Miss America Pageant.”

Did you takethatasa compliment or criticism?

Idon’tknow, but we reallyare just havingfun. Life is short. If you can share yourpassion with others, that’sagreatthing.

And you and your fellow drummers have done a lot of touring?

We’ve been toChinaand Japan. In the ’90s, wegottoplayCarnegie Hall, andthatwas prettyspecial. So yourdrummingcertainly has taken you places.

On the otherhand,we’ve played some not-so-glamorous venues— like atthe statefair,right next to the pigraces.

Oh wow. Kindofacomedown. Yeah, butIactuallyhadalot of fun, …andthepigs were really cute.

TASTY

THE OTHER OTHER WInE COUnTRY

Fromtasting roomsand quaint shops featuring artisanal fare tobistros and upscalefine-dining options,Livermore is making its mark as a worthydestination forwine- and food-loversalike — without the crowdsthat might drive oneto,well,drink.

BYLINDAZAVORAL PHOTOGRAPHSBYDOUGDURANANDARICCRABB

Weare headinginto winecountry, zippingby oak-studded golden hills where the occasional small herd of cattle ranges and thefewricketyold barns could tumble atany time — unless a wannabe vintnerrescues themandtransforms them into tasting rooms.

Isay zippingbecausethere is notraffic. We’re not on Highway 29 in thatWineCountry or Highways 101 or 12 in the other WineCountry.

Thisis theLivermoreValley,andit’syettobe discovered bythe wine-drinking masses. LikeLodi, the Santa ClaraValley and so manyother regions,this unheralded area is richin grape-growinghistory (datingback to the early 1880s),and itswines aregaining acclaim. Inthe mid-’90s there were only 15wineries in the Livermore Valley American Viticultural Area; now thereare justover 50.

Entrepreneurs andrestaurateurs have embraced the movement.Downtown Livermore,with itsWestern-stylestorefronts —now given over towine bars, ale houses, bistros andrestaurants with corkage-free nights —hasbecome a secondhome foroenophiles and food lovers.

Where to start a day ofLivermore sippingand sampling? Well,many tasting rooms don’topen until noon. Theday’ssmoking has commencedoveratthe popularspot calledSauced, butthe barbecue’snot ready.AndI,for one, needmore caffeine before I’llbe able to throw balls straight on the bocce court.Our reservation’snot until 11a.m.

So it’soff to the Panama Red Coffee Co. or CasseCroute Bakery forcups to go andthenthe Sunday farmers marketatRailroadAvenue.

At firstglance, this marketis sotinyithardly warrants a stop—untilyousee the row of artisans espousingthe “made inLivermore” philosophy.There’s JohnJohnsen,aparksand rec guywho bottles hishot sauce recipes underthe Texas-inspiredTerlinguaname but pays tribute to the city’slargestemployer,the one withthe H-bomb notoriety.Laurence Livermore Laboratory officials purchase his “LivermoreSite 300 Nuclear Sauce”bythecase foremployees and visitors, so you havetoarrive early tosnag abottle. The same goesfor the sell-out-fasttamales andtaquitos made by a young cook named Aurora“Flaca” NavaofFlaca’s

1.Campo

2.Wente

3.Blacksmith

4.

5.Carnegie

Chips & Salsa. Family recipes, Iask? “Itweaked my mom’srecipes,sonow they’remine,” she says proudly.

Across theway,the Cheese Therapyfood truck beckons. Two Livermoreresidents—chef Denise CreekGarciaandcheesemonger Teri Tith Concannon —specialize inthe ploughman’slunch (that’s the English name for a salumiorcharcuterie plate), grilled cheeses (thinkmanchegowith spicy slawand cilantro), homemade soup and a three-cheese Caesar salad (todayit’sParmesan, Comteand Seascape, a nice changeofpacefromthe usual one-note Caesar).

Amuch larger farmers market, with dinner vendors and livemusic,springsuponThursdayevenings from spring to fall on the grounds ofthetown’sstately circa 1911 Carnegie Library,nottoo far away.

Speaking of not too far away,thatapplies tojust about everythingin downtown Livermore.It’scom-

MAPBY DAVE JOHNSON

Toprow,left to right: Wente Vineyardsexecutivesous chef Mark Duesler;theFarmers Plate atSwirl on theSquare;Rod Moniz, ownerofMonizFamily Wines, atBlacksmith Square.

Middle row,leftto right: Michael Godfrey, left, and family get ready to play at Campo diBocce; a bottle of Site 300Nuclear Hot Sauce from the Terlingua Sauce Co. at the Livermorefarmers market; the Wente Vineyardsrestaurant garden.

Bottom row,leftto right: Deltaasparagus with house-made bacon, pecorino and acrispysix-minute farmegg at theWente Vineyardsrestaurant; Jan Libandplays thebongos with the reggaeband PaperKayak atBlacksmith Square.

pact and walkable,aperfectway to burn off calorieson afood- and drink-filledday.

BUT FIRST,WE’RE OFFTO burn caloriesveryslowly, with aleisurely —but competitive,I hope — matchof bocce.Yes,the Livermorewine industry may have French and Germanvintners atitsroots, but theItalian game of bocce isde rigueur here,asit apparentlyisin every California appellation. You can playbocce as asideactivityat awinery,oryou can, like us,playwhere the bocce is paramount andwine takes a back seat(though,truthbetold,

myglass of local sauvignon blanc is sittingafewfeetaway).

Here, on awarmday atCampo di Bocce, onthe westernsideof Livermore,the air feelspositively Mediterranean on the outdoor courts, ringedby blooming trellises. The wait staff thoughtfully gives refresher tips on how toplay (it’sall about rolling your balls closestto thelittleball, called thepallino,andno, it’snever beenas easy asit sounds), keeps yousupplied with pitchersofice water,and takes care ofyourfood and wineorders. Thewait staff doesnot, however, retrieveyour far-flung balls from theend ofthe approximately90-foot-long court.

That’scalledthe “walk of shame,” and it’spart ofthefun — as long as you keep sippingwine.

If you plan to playearly enoughin the day orlate enough in the evening, you’llavoid the distractions of birthdayparties, bridal showers and corporate team-building on nearbycourts and getachance to concentrate on strategy.Actually, on astandard courtlike this, as opposedto apark or festivalgrounds, there’s more to it than strategy:Ithought Iputenough spinon that one! Why is itrollingoverthere?No, stop, stop! Are wesure this court doesn’tslope?

After an hour’sworthofplay,

whichwent bymuch tooquickly, Icanattest that goodhand-eyecoordination countsfor morethan Italian blood when playing bocce. Thescore was 8-4.

Weretreatto an umbrella-shaded tablefor lunchafter discovering that anumber of people come toCampodiBocce notto play bocce butto eat.Agoodsign. Seeingashow we barelybrokea sweat on thecourt, webypassthe pastadishesand opttoshare a nicelygrilledfresh salmon sandwich with avocado,aTuscan tuna salad sandwich withcapers, and side salads, includingoneofbibb lettuce, burratacheese and shaved fennel.

Above:Wente Vineyards restaurant sommelierJorge Tinoco is in the wine cellar. Opposite:Fionn Conway, left,and his brotherConor bag vegetables at the Livermore farmersmarket.

NEXT IT’S OFFTOTHE wineries,with our designated driverat thewheel.

Although wineries aresprinkled throughout Livermore,the bulk of them lineSouth Livermore Avenue, Tesla Road andnearby streets. Closestto downtown is Retzlaff, established in 1985. Nearby is thehistoric Concannon, whichdatesto1883, followed —west toeast—byastringof boutique and family wineries, includingthe wineryofsixth-generation vintner Steven Kentofthe Mirassou family. At thefareastern edge ofthe strip are EagleRidge, LesChenes and CedarMountain.

First westopat anearbyMines Road winery,Murrieta’s Well, namedfor thesite whereJoaquin Murrieta discoveredanartesian well in the1850s.The rustic tasting room isfashionedfrom an 1880shillside “gravity flow” winerywhereFrench immigrant Louis Mel made winefrom imported Chateaud’Yquem and Chateau Margaux plantings.

Thelore and viewshere are unexpected delights.Ourinterest in Murrieta actuallyhad been piqued by the winery’srecent best inshow award for TheWhip, a2013 white blended not from two,three or four wine grapes, but seven:semillon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier,orange muscat, gewurztraminer and white riesling.It’saromatic, to be sure, and surprisinglywell-balanced. Or, in the wordsofour winecritic,MaryOrlin,one ofthe judges at the blind tasting, “Soft and round on the palate, juicyand refreshing.Lingering finish with a hintofhoney.”

Known forits cabernetfranc, Murrieta’sWell, like many other Livermorewineries, also makes small-lot wines from such Spanish and Portuguesevarietals as touriga andtempranillo. Ourpurchases: touriga, The Whip and muscat canelli. Andif the porthadn’tbeen aclub-only purchase,Iwould have bought a bottle of that, too.

YOUCANONLYDO SO MUCH winetasting, so when your palate is bruised andanother water cracker won’thelp,head downtown for somelive music and small bites atyetanother historic site.

BlacksmithSquare,whichwas home toablacksmithway back in theday,isnowacharming brick courtyard linedwith tinyshops and tasting rooms, and the credit goesto JohnMadden’sdeveloper son for that. There’sentertainment — maybe lightrock,maybe country,with nocovercharge— on Fridayevenings, Saturday afternoons and evenings,andSunday afternoons from Maythrough October. Tryto arriveearly tograb seats because it’sstanding room only whenthe weather’snice. Swirl on the Square is thewine bar andrestaurant thatruns the show atBlacksmith. Small plates rangefrom crostinitosausage

sliders, and you can expect some creative bites fromchefSerena Martinez, who didherexternship atGary Dankoin SanFrancisco. Butit’stough to pass up a dessert called Billie’sHomemadeSecret Cake, whichis bakedbyowner RoccoMaitino’smother,and no, she won’tevengivehim the recipe. This buttery yellow cake toppedwith walnutsanddusted withpowderedsugaris sorich that even Maitinosays it’stoo sweetto pairwithdessert wine; you’llwant coffeewith this one.

TOWARDTHEEND OFTHE

afternoon, we’re off to Eagle Ridge Vineyard,recommendedbyanew

acquaintance, fornice wines, free tasting and a quirkyatmosphere. Togettothis cattle ranch-turnedwinery,we drive downabumpy, half-mile-long roadwith a humongous dip (thewebsitecalls it a“Disneyland‘Eticket’ride”).

Theplain exteriorofthe old agricultural building belieswhat’s inside: afun jumble of vintage signs and turn-of-the-century collectibles amassed by owners Jimand Cheryl Perry.Jim,who pourstastes for us of his signature petitesirahsand estate-grown zinfandels, isclearlyalocalbooster. Abumperstickerbehind him boasts:“Livermore makeswine. Napamakesautoparts.”

Pouring next tohim is fellow winemaker Dan Rosenberg of Dante Robere Vineyards, known for its2012reserve syrah and Rhone blend(Dante’sInferno). Soon, thetwo will be pouring miles apart, as Dante Robere moves to its new winery in west Livermore,where the tasting room patio will offer viewsofthe estate syrahvineyard andSycamore GrovePark.

Ourpurchases: FromEagle Ridge, MadCait dessert wine, madefrom pinot grigio,andfrom Dante Robere, thatDante’sInferno. Alas, we wereamongthelast to enjoythefree tastings, as both wineries will start levyingfees

Above:Live music entertains patrons ona Saturdayevening at Blacksmith Square.

Opposite:The hillsides at Wente Vineyardsglow at sunset.

of $5and$10,respectively.Still, compared with Napa tasting fees, Livermore remainsabargain.

FOR THE BEST HIGH-END dinner in Livermore, wemake reservations to endthe day at TheRestaurant atWenteVineyards. In business for 30 years, this restaurant hasevolved under recent chefsto embraceboth a farm-to-tableand a ranch-to-table philosophy.Thatmeans Wente not only grows produceand herbs on a half-acreorganicgarden here,buttherestaurant also raises its own herdofgrass-fed Black Angus cattle on local hillsides.

Thewineryisn’tjust theoldest in theseparts;it’sthe oldestcontinuously operatedfamily-ownedwinery in the United States — it has beenup and running since1883.

Dinner startswith warm housemaderolls, flecked with herbs from thegardenand olive oil pressed justdown theroadat Olivina.It’saperfect pairing. We orderedthe signature starter— LambPastrami, cured in-house and served on rye crisps with pickled red onion and coriander —alongwith what welaterterm the mostaddictive dishwe’ve had in awhile, BlackTruffle Ricotta Dip, made withchevre,sheep’s milk ricotta, honey,sunflower seeds and thyme.

Forentrees,we shared the wood-grilledFilet Mignon, served withmarblepotatoes;agoat cheese gnocchi with pancetta and favabeans; and anothersignature offering,the Grilled Leg ofLamb, withmerlot androsemary.That was the standout dish, withbeautiful slices ofmedium-rarelamb fannedout overmorel mushrooms, favas androastedspring onions.

Outside the diningroom is some of the veryscenery we drove past this morning. We’vesomehowmanagedto time ourmeal perfectly. Thesetting sun is castingshadows onthe hills,darkeningthemfromgoldto mustard to brown, and twobirds ofpreyfly past,asif oncue. But we neglected to reserve the very best seats— awindow or patio table — for the evening show.

Nexttime.

FOLLOWLINDAZAVORALAT TWITTER.COM/BUH_BYETRAVEL.

DOUGDURAN(2)

Drinkup—inacastle

When itcomesto NapaValley winetasting, the problemisnothow to find agood winery.It’showto choose among 400ofthem. Insteadofponderingthe possibilities,head straightforDario Sattui’s 13th-century Tuscanfantasy, Castello diAmorosa, in Calistoga. Sattui also has a medievalmonasteryjust outsideSiena andaMedici palace inTuscany,but youdon’tneed apassportto visitthis one, a136,000-square-footmedieval-style castle, completewith battlements,caves, atorturechamber,secretpassagesand adrawbridge —and the grandGreat Hall. Plus, there’swine.

4045 N.St.HelenaHighway. Fordetails, gotowww.castellodiamorosa.com.

Gourmetgrubonthego

If you findyourselfonanimpromptu triptoWine Country,stop for lunch atAddendum,theto-go outpost of Yountville’sreveredAdHoc. You can get tastycomfortfood withoutareservation and quickly getback onthe SilveradoTrail.Enjoy aboxedlunch of buttermilkfried chicken,barbecue pork ribsora pulled porksandwich,each withacouple ofsides, on a picnic bench inthegarden.Addendum is open Thursdays throughSaturdays from 11a.m.until2p.m. (There can bealine onSaturdays.) Addendumis located behind Ad Hoc, whichisat 6476WashingtonSt. Fordetails, gotowww.thomaskeller.com/addendum.

MakeasourfaceatMikkeller

One of San Francisco’sbest recentopenings is thebeer haven MikkellerBar,ontheedgeofthe Tenderloin and in theburgeoning Mid-Marketarea,home toTwitter and countless other new-mediacompanies. And while themain-floor beer hallisawelcomeaddition to the neighborhood, thehighlighthere isdownanarrow staircase to the basement, home ofthe Tivoli Sour Room, open Thursday,Fridayand Saturday nights after 6p.m. Forthose averse to dark beers — which all too often feelliketheymustbechewed—but delighted by the a lip-puckeringlytartfinishand maybe a slight barnyard funkiness, this is heaven.With anarrow communal tableand a coupleof smaller two-seater spots, it cangetalittlecrowded, butthe offerings here morethan make upforthe cramped quarters. (And onnightswhenthe sourroomitselfisn’topen, youcanstillorder from its menu upstairs, thoughyou may be surroundedbyacrush of techbros.)

34 Mason St.For details, call415-984-0279.

Picksweettreatsonthecoast

If you’reheadingup Highway 1from Santa Cruz, stop atSwanton BerryFarm, just north of Davenport (orits second farm, Coastways,in Pescadero).This laid-back oasis has an honor till that you will quicklyfillupbuyingfresh-picked strawberries, jamsandother treats. Enjoy your goodies inthe funky farm stand, where youcanhang out playing board games, looking atold books or chattingwithfriends. If it’snot too windy, youcanenjoy your treats on thelawn area. And, of course, you canwanderthe fields and pickyour own organic strawberries —agreatactivity withkids.

25 SwantonRoad.Fordetails, go towww.swantonberryfarm.com.

Visitoliveoilcountry

Getataste of Italy bysteppinginsideNapa Valley Olive OilManufacturingCo. in St.Helena. Theplace is inawhite shed alongblockoff Highway 29 at the end of CharterOak Drive and offers bottles upon bottles of olive oil, along with other tastytreats — salami, sausages andcheese,anyone?

835CharterOak Ave.For details,go towww.oliveoilsainthelena.com.

Asemi-secretberrypatch

Around Labor Daythe DowWetlands Preserve, in Antioch, hasanbevy of blackberriesperfect for the picking. OnWest10th Street,there is a parking lot near theentranceto the preserve.Takethe narrow trail north, andafter a shortwalk, you’llseeblackberrybrambles on your left.Walkabit more for asection withgiant hedges onbothsidesfilled with the fruit. If pickingberries isn’tyour bag, thepreserve hasmuch to seeon its 470-plus undeveloped acres, including a beaverpond and manyspots for bird-watching.

Fordetails, go towww.dow.com/pittsburg/wetland.

StockupinSt.Helena

LongMeadow Ranch in St.Helena has it all.Afarmersmarketruns all yearfrom FridaythroughSunday. Artisan dinnersareserved outsideat the community table, where you mayevensit with theowners. And don’tmiss thebutcher shop,olive oils, wines and more.

738Main St.For details, go towww.longmeadowranch.com or call 877-627-2645.

The deliciously tart fruit is especiallytasty when paired with asweet stone fruit: A favorite of oursis a muffin bursting with blackberries (or — even better —olallieberries) andfresh peaches.

Fromtop: StrawberriesatCoastways Ranch; the view fromatowerat Castello di Amorosa; and Jason Liu, 2½, of San Jose, samples thefruitat Coastways.

SampleupscalespiritsatSt.GeorgeinAlameda

Aficionados of fine spiritshavealottochoosefrom thesedays,but allthenewartisandistillers oweadebttothe craftspeopleatSt. George Spirits. Itwas thefirst craftdistillery in the United States when itopenedin1982, and ithas since movedtoa65,000-squarefoot hangar on thegroundsof the oldAlameda NavalAir Station. Visitorscansee the stills, fermentation tanks and bottling lineat thedistillery that producedthe firstAmericansingle-malt whiskey,the first legalabsinthemadeinthe U.S.in80years andHangar1 Vodka. And, of course, you cantaste flights of theaward-winning rums, liqueurs, whiskeysandmore. —Michael Mayer 2601 MonarchSt.For details, go towww.stgeorgespirits.com.

St. Georgevodka (farleft) and absinthe (near left) areonoffer at post-tour tastings like the one Jon Stenstromand KathleenNguyen are enjoyingona recentSaturday in Alameda.

Above: Samantha Shireman, assitant manager at St. George Spiritsand self-proclaimed “Booze Geek,” stands next to a still as sheleads atourat the distillery.

PHOTOGRAPHSBY DOUGDURAN

Pickyourownproduce

Eachspring, cherryloversfromaroundtheBay Area flock to the dozensoforchards inBrentwood to pick bucketsofcherries straightfrom thetrees (somepeople getcarriedawayand havetobe reprimanded for climbingthe treesin searchof theripest cherry).But theU-Pick season actually stretches allsummer, givingfreshfruitand veggieloversachancetopick their own farm-fresh produce.Despite the rapid development in EastContra Costa over theyears,the U-Pick farms still provide a small-town reminder ofasimpler time, when farming was the lifebloodof theregion.

Fordetails, gotowww.harvest4you.com.

Vinowithaviewin Alameda

Runby the famous Rosenblums, this isagem ofa spot withfabulous views of San Francisco andthe bay,especiallyatsunset. RockWall Wine Co.hasa 3,000-square-foot geodesic dome, and it’skid-friendly, withfurniture outsideand plentyofroom to run around. Wineclub membership is reasonably priced, and greatdiscounts areoffered.Thespot isopen everyday,closing at8p.m.,makingit a perfectplace for a sipafter work. Rock Wall WineCo. islocatedon theformer Alameda Naval Air Station.

Fordetails, gotowww.rockwallwines.com.

Shuckandslurpin Marshall

Tomales Bayin MarinCounty is groundzero for great oystersin theBay Area.Andat theTomales Bay OysterCo.,youcanpicnic right next tothe farms that produce great oysters, clamsandmussels featuredat many Bay Arearestaurants. The proprietors will set youup with shuckingknives,charcoalfor one of the many grills on the property,lemons and hot sauce. And, if you so desire, bring your own beer and wine.

15479ShorelineHighway.

Fordetails, gotowww.tomalesbayoystercompany.com.

Powerupforwinetasting

If you’reawine aficionadoexploring Healdsburg, make it apointto stopat JimtownStore, on Alexander Valley Road near theRussian River. The spot offershearty soups, salads, sandwiches,startersandbreakfasts.

6706Highway128.Fordetails, call707-433-1212.

Sitandsipat TruettHurst

ON HEALDSBURG

Notan oyster-shuckingpro?The folksat TomalesBay Oyster Co. are happy to help.

Forsome truly sensational sips,stopbyTruettHurst Winery foratasting —allthe wines are good,but pay specialmind to theBlack Sheep PinotNoir,the Rattler Rock Zinfandel andthe Dragonfly RedBlend. Asyou’re tasting (or,better yet,holdingthe bottle you just bought), walk outthroughthe winery’sextensive herb, fruit and vegetable gardens and down to the edge ofDry Creek,wherethere are a fewgroups of Adirondackchairs to laze in while swirlingyour glass and communing with nature. If you haven’tboughta few tastytreats tosnack uponthere, head backinto Healdsburg afterward for a small-plates dinner at Chalkboard (29 North St.). Be suretotryat leastone of the housemadepastas.

Thewinery isat 5610DryCreekRoad. Fordetails, go towww.truetthurst.com.

TruettHurst and the JimtownStore are just two ofthe tasty Healdsburg treasures highlighted in this section.Check outthe listingfor Shed on the next page.

Strawberries (picturedabove) arejust oneofmanyfruitsandvegetablesavailable atU-Pickfarmsin Brentwood.

Forpancakes,we hike!

One Sunday amonththroughOctober, thehistoric WestPoint Innlures hungryhikerstoitsremote localeon Mount Tam for apancakebreakfast with top-of-the-worldviews.Friends and familiesgather around plates of flapjacks, sausagesand freshfruitat sunnypicnic tables perchedhigh above the fog.Paths to the innvary,but the level45-minute amble from Mountain Theatreisascenicoption.

100OldRailroad Grade. Fordetails, go to www.westpointinn.com.

Gonorth,in searchofcheese

Findingexcellentcheese in abigcity—where’sthe sport inthat?It’sfar more fun to discover some outstandinghandcraftedwater buffalo, sheepand goatcheesesin atinyunincorporatedcommunityof 50.This microscopicRussian RivertownofFreestone, 15 minutesfromBodegaBay,ishome toFreestone Artisan Cheese.This unlikely littlefoodiemeccahas developed acult following sinceopening in2013. RoastedCalifornia nuts, local oliveoil, crepes and tea round out the mix.Enjoyahappy lunchin the redwoodpark across thestreet.

380 Bohemian Highway.For details, go to www.freestoneartisan.com.

Dogood,andeatwell

Remember thatincredible meal you hadwhile travelingabroad?Guess what? Someoneis cooking thesamemeal right here,andneedsyou to1) eat it

2) chip in fundstokeep the delicious fareflowing. San Francisco’sLa Cocinais an incubatorkitchen for low-income food entrepreneurslooking to gettheir businesses off theground. The focusis womenfrom communities ofcolorandimmigrant communities.

2948Folsom St.For details, go towww.lacocinasf.org.

Getlostgoinggourmet

What isthisplace? Restaurant? Gourmet market? Coffeebar? Communitygatheringspot?Tryall of the above. Healdsburg’sShed,whichgarnered aJames Beard Award for best-designed restaurant in the countrylast year, isagreatstop for brunch or a picnic if you’reheaded north,but it’saworthystopinitsown right. With house-cured meats,terrines, gourmet ciders, drinkingvinegarsand baked goods; an espresso bar in thefront;and an expansive indoor-outdoor diningarea,it’seasy tospend acoupleofhourshere(and, ahem, a couple hundred dollarsifyou’renot careful).

25 NorthSt.For details, go towww.healdsburgshed.com.

Samplesome sudsin SurfCity

Something newisbrewingin Santa CruzCounty:beer — and lotsof it. By the end of2015, the numberof breweries inthe countywillhave doubled in the pastthreeyears.

Healdsburg's Shed, above, has plentyto offer inside itsdoors, butthere'salso abonus across thestreet: The Healdsburg farmersmarket opens upacross thestreet every Saturdayfrom 9 a.m.to noonfrom Maythrough November.

Beginatour atCorralitos Brewing Co. (2536FreedomBlvd., Watsonville) beforeheadingto New Bohemia BrewingCo. (1030 41st Ave., Santa Cruz)for German-style lagers. Sip delicious barrel-aged sours at nearby Sante Adairius RusticAles(103KennedyDrive, Capitola), and finishat Discretion Brewing(2703 41stAve.,Soquel), wherebeer-friendly bites, suchas pork bellysliders,pair well with award-winning brews.

Can’tnab adesignateddriver?

Hookup with BrewCruz, which shuttles guests around in a tricked-outschool busnamed BettyJane.

Fordetails, go towww.scbrewcruz.com.

EUREKAINTERVIEW

FromtheSouthto yourmouth

CONVERSATIONWITHDERRECKJOHNSON ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

with afuturistictwist.” What’sthe futuristictwist?

Evenas Oakland’sJackLondon Square experiences aculinaryrenaissance withtrendyeateriessuchas Lungomare, Haven and Plank, the Home of Chicken and Waffles remains the neighborhood’stried-and-truesoulfoodhot spot.Openedin2004byits passionate owner, DerreckJohnson, the bustling dinercontinues to thrive, thankstoits abundance of freshlymade comfort food, a warmfamilyenvironment andthe soothing soundsofMotown. Johnson, who alsorunsaHomeof Chicken andWaffles in WalnutCreek, tellsushow the ingredientsof successallcome together.

What is itabout themarriageof chicken andwafflesthat makesit suchabeloveddish for somany?

It’sjustagreat combination of thesavory andsweet. It’svery comforting. Itjust makesyou feel goodinside.

Soundslike maybe we should all beeatingmoreofit.

Theworldwouldbeahappier, friendlier place.

Still, you’llfind some people who have never tried it —people who considerit tobean unusual combination.In their minds, you mightaswell bemixing Pop-Tarts with a porterhouse steak.

Oh, yeah, there are some people who don’tgetit.Obviously, it’s more prevalentin cultures and communities thathave some ties to the South. Personally, mygoalis to expose our culture and our food to everyone.Besides, fried chicken is somethingthatcrosses all lines.

And a widevarietyof people have embraced yourplace over the years. Ourclienteleis,ofcourse,largely African-American. Butwehave customers from all walks of life, and theyreflecttheoverallpopulation ofOakland.(Former)Mayor (Jean)Quanis acustomer.We getpolice officersandpoliticians, entertainers andathletes.Alot of the Warriors — StephCurry, KlayThompson — have beenin severaltimes,aswellas many of theRaiders.

Soundslike it’sgonemainstream.

Definitely. You’re findingmore chicken and wafflesbeing served in mainstreamrestaurants and evensomefine dining establishments. They’retrying their own versionsof it,with mixed results. Theytry tofancyit uptoo much. It’sstill bestin its basic form.

Yes,basic. And there’ssomething aboutthose cinnamony waffles.

It’sour special recipe.

And you’re not going to share it with us?

Ofcourse not!

One of thedistinctive things about yourrestaurantisthecolorful painted portraitsofyour family members on the wallwith their namesake dishes.How didthat idea come about?

Igotthe idea driving downGrand Avenue. I sawthis artist(Peter Tom)painting amural on the walls of aschool.Istopped and askedhim ifhe coulddo something for us.

It’sarealhomageto family.

That’swhat it’sall about. We want to give people thatexperience of going to yourmom’sfor Thanksgiving or Christmas or on aSundayafternoon. It’sthe most American way to eat.

On your menu, there’sareference to “down-homeSouthernsoul food

LEARNMOREATWWW.HOMEOFCHICKENANDWAFFLES.COM

Thatmainly refers to the look of thediner.As a kid, Iloved “TheJetsons.”Itwas my favorite cartoon.SoIwantedabit of that “Jetsons”feel—with alot of bright, vibrant colors.

As an Oaklandnativeand a restaurantownersince 2004, you’ve witnessed the riseand fall and the rise again of Jack LondonSquare. How gratifying is it to see the culinary revival going on there?

Verygratifying. For a few years,it was likeadesertout here.Itwas extremelydismal.…Now,it’slike night and day.There’sawhole different kindofenergygoingon. Plank is agreataddition.Ireally enjoy eating atHaven.…Andit’s nice to beable totell peoplethat you don’thave togoto San Franciscotohave an upscale dining experience.

And now, thegoal, it would seem, is to keep it going.

That’sright.My hope is toseea few more family-friendly,everyday kindofrestaurants addedto the mix.That’swhat I thinkyou reallyneed tobringin even more people. Andthose peoplewill see that this place issafe,friendlyand alot of fun. You’vegotallkinds of different foods to choose from in athree-block radius.The water is beautiful. The weather’sgreat. What else canyou ask for?

That said,mostofthemedia attentionhas been directed atthe trendyneweateries. Do you worry that your place mightget overlookedamid all the hubbub?

Notatall! Down-home comfort foodfeedsthe soul andhas stood the testof time. And it can certainlystandthe trends of time.

A360-DEGREEREFLECTION

ON THELAKES ANDTRAILSOFTAHOE

BYELLIOTTALMOND PHOTOGRAPHSBYMAXWHITTAKER

Stepping into the dark onasun-drenched day in the High Sierrareally doesanumber on perception.Theeyesgo first, from squinting in refractive light to flailingin blackness until theretina has timetoadjust. Swaggerinthe gait erodeswith each forward step. Timeslows,then fades to black.

TheSummit Tunnel hikeatDonner Passis like tiptoeing into anotherdimension, unknowntoalmost everyone arrivingatLakeTahoefor agetaway.Traffic streams pastonInterstate 80with adistantwhoosh. Those driversonahastyretreat down the serpentine roadwaymight briefly notice therailroadtunnels on a southern ridge ofDonner Pass.

But they’renot givingthisotherworldlysliceof Tahoe muchthoughton the way toski slopes, golf coursesand casinos. Theyknownothingof theeerie granitearches decoratedby graffiti artists,creating an imageofasubterranean BalmyAlleyin the Mission.

I’m not surewhat to expect uponentering thedank cavern,wherethe sun’swarmth goesto die.Shivering from the quick temperaturedip,stumbling into pools of water in the blackout, mypictureof this land starts taking on a whollydifferent form.

Tostare into thesapphire-blue faceofTahoeisto grapple withperspective. Somany archivalmileposts to consider, includingthisabandoned stretchofthe intercontinental railroad, built bytheblisteredhands of Chineselaborers. Unearthingsuch historical morsels is likepulling loosecoinsoutof the crevicesofa worn sofa.

It took BayArea historian ScottLankford years to realizeit.“IthoughtIknewTahoelike the back of myhand, butIhadn’tflippedmy handover,”says the author of “TahoeBeneath theSurface.”“Iknewwhere to ski, Iknewwheretoclimb, Iknewwheretofish,I knew where to hike,Iknewwheretoboat. But Idid not know anythingaboutwhereIwas.The place is a nexus of historical forces that are deeply powerful.”

Since Lt. John C. Frémont became thefirst explorer to casteyesupon thecrystallinewaters — in 1844 —Tahoehasbeentuggedand pulledbyAmerican expansionism. Firstcame the49ersontheirwayto theSierragoldfields. Tenyearshence,opportunists decimated surrounding pineforeststosupport Nevada’s Comstock Lode.

Environmental issuesremain central to theTahoe experience, just asthey wereatthe beginning of the20thcentury,when famed naturalist John Muir campaignedto create anationalpark here.John SteinbeckandMark Twain wereamongthose who leftfootprints.

Starting from Donner Summit, inthe northwest corridor,I’dcircumnavigate the72-mile shoreline looking for breadcrumbs of historyin the BayArea’s favorite backyard playground.

But allthathas to wait. The trip starts inside the rock-sculpted railroad bunkersbuiltinthe 1860sto bridgethe Eastwith San Francisco.

That’swhenthe ground starts to shake violently.

The writernavigates his way throughmostly abandoned traintunnels nearDonner Pass,part ofa3-miletrail. Previousspread: FallenLeaf Lake is justsouthofLakeTahoe.

FARFROMTHE BLACKJACKTABLES AT touristyStateline, Nevada, southsidersfind refugein thepine-scentedvillage ofMarkleeville.Anatural hot tub with stunning vistasofcrumbly peaks inspires the45-minutedrive from SouthLake Tahoe to Kit Carson country.Grover HotSprings State Parkis an antidote to the high-priced resortspas of Swedish massages and mud baths.

What the springlacksin amenitiesit more than makes upfor in value. For$7,visitors can enjoya 1½-mileround-triptramp to a waterfall, or 4½miles to BurnsideLake. Whateverone’sphysicallimit, the reward isagood soak atthe finish line.

Most, though, forgothe trails to enjoy therejuvenating warmth of the copper-coloredmineral water that rises to the surfaceat148 degrees before it’s cooledinholdingtanks above thepools.

Molten rock burrowedundergroundhas heatedthe springs since beforetheice age.Geologic tumult eventually ledtoseepageto the surface,wherethe Washoe people oncesettled. TheWashoe people’s9,000-year historyaroundTahoeoften has beenovershadowed by therelativelyrecent Eurocentriccultural domination. But it hasn’t beencompletelyblottedout, thanks to such events as theannual summer WaShe Shu It’ Deh Native American Arts Festival, atthe TallacHistoricSite, near South Lake Tahoe’sCampRichardson.

TheTahoename,which becameofficialin 1945, came from the Washoes’ descriptions ofthe lake. Howeverit transpired,it’smoreapropos than the once-common “LakeBigler,”inhonor of California’s third governor.

TheWashoeshad asummer camp atnearbyTaylor Creek —similarto Camp Richardson.This woody section includes Fallen LeafLake, residing in theshadow of Desolation Wilderness, one of the state’sfinest backpackingdestinations.

Thegrowth of the Richardsonfamilyresort paralleled shoreline development thatsprouted stately homes for the1percentersofthe1930s.Camp Richardson hasremainedafamily-oriented refuge,likethe Markleeville hot springs.

Miles away,however, another famouslodgepays homagetoadifferent wayoflife.

GEORGEWHITTELLJR.’SLAVISH ESTATELIES far below theFlume Trail, belovedby mountain bikers andoncethevein thatsent virgin timberdown to VirginiaCity.Theacreageis lodged intothe rockygranite cliffs overlooking the lake,justoffthehighway. TheThunderbird Lodge is asymbol of the wealthy who developed Tahoe’sshoreline,29 percentof which lies inNevadabecause of amapping error.

Whittell’sfamilybuiltafortune through San Francisco real estate. Thesciontook $50 million out of the stock markettobuild inTahoe and also asecluded 50-acre estate in Woodsidethat nowisKings Mountain Vineyards.

1.Donner Passtunnel hike2. GroverHot Springs

3.Thunderbird Lodge 4. Fallen Leaf Lake

5.Fishing the Little TruckeeRiver 6.SquawValley Resort

The ThunderbirdLodgeoffers tours Tuesdays through Sundaysand throwsopen its doorsfor special winemakers'dinners(ticketsare $250per person) onthesecond SundayinJuly, August andSeptember.

Opposite,clockwisefrom top:Bryce BennettfishestheLittle Truckee River;bar patrons unwind at The DividedSky inMeyers; an osprey diveswith afreshly caughtfish at FallenLeaf Lake.

MAPBY DAVEJOHNSON

Whittellintended to erect waterfront palacesand acasino inthe 1930swhen purchasing40,000 acres, whichincluded 27 milesofshoreline.Those plans faded because thestrappingWhittell didn’tcare for people. Insteadofdeveloping,the San Francisco millionaire “gaveusthewhole eastern shorein pristine condition,” says Sue Bernheisel, thevolunteercoordinatorfor ThunderbirdLodgePreservation Society, whichownsand manages theproperty.

Societymembers have come tocallthe eccentric Whittelltheir“accidentalconservationist.”Theyare thestewards ofabygone era,usingfundraisers, tours, weddings andspecialevents to safeguardtheThunderbird from modern-dayencroachment.

“He leftustheeastshore,”says Bernheisel,who grew upin SanLeandro. “It’sthe flavor ofLakeTahoe from thattime, and we lostthat”elsewhere.

Thepreservation societyformedin1999totake over the5.8-acreproperty.Its90-minutetour starts attheIncline Village visitorcenter beginningin mid-May.Thegroupalsogivestoursin Whittell’s famous woodenyacht,with airplane engines thatroar to life. At leasttheydowhen thelakethat descendsa mind-numbing 1,645 feetisn’tsuffering from current droughtconditions.

That’sOK. I cameto Tahoefor solitude.

THESUNHASSLIPPED BEHIND THEFOREST, sending theslightestchillthroughamuffledwind. Impressionistreflections on thesmoothsurfaceof the Little TruckeeRivermirrorthetree-covered riverbank. At that moment, BryceBennettshatters the serenity withadeclarative,“Got it.”

Wearing a big grin, he handsmethepliantrod to haul inaplump14-inchbrown trout at oneofhis favoritefishingholesnortheastof Tahoe.

“Slowly,”Bennettsays asIturn thecrankwith my lefthand.

Ihaven’ttried fly-fishingin 30years. Backthen,we set out inwestern Montana to one of those worldclasslocalesNormanMaclean wroteabout in“A River RunsThroughIt.”Our goal was to retrievethe main entree for a wedding rehearsaldinner.Thegroom-tobe insistedwe were on acan’t-miss mission.

Ishouldhave known better. Imade suchamess of my rod and reelupon first casting that myfriend spent moretime attendingto methan fishing. Onthe way back, we stopped by afriend’shouse tocollect frozen fishfor the hungrywedding party.

Now,as apregnant white moonbegins torise abovetheforest, Ihaveone task: Reelthe squirming speckled trout to shorefor aphoto opand, ultimately, his welcomedrelease.

Before heading to theriver, Ihad touredtheUC Davis TahoeScience CenterinIncline Village to learn about the area’s aquatichealth.The research project withSierraNevadaCollegeprovides anintroduction to what’sat stake.

Change is the watchword for thoseworriedabout Tahoe’sonce-robustfishery.Human handiwork and climatechange have conspiredtoimpactthestock.

For$7, visitorsto Grover HotSprings in Markleevillecantake a short hike to a waterfall, or a slightlylonger jaunttoalake.But themain attraction is a thermal poolwithapicturesquebackdrop.

Inthelate1880s,for instance, well-meaning souls introducedmackinawtrout to LakeTahoetohelp boost fishing.Thenew species,however,overwhelmed native inhabitants. Oops. Sevenendemicspeciesremain in the lakealong with 10non-natives, whichinclude, alas, goldfish.

After “winning” our spirited battle withthebrown trout, wesetout down the rushingrivertofind Bennett’sfather,Stan, who didnot share ourluck this early Mayeveningalong the oldCalifornia trail that brought pioneers westdecades before therailroad.

Ruminatingabout wagon trains thatrumbled past here eonsago,we hike up anddown theriversearchingforopportunity.Inthepast four years,Bryce Bennetthasscouted every section of the riverfrom Tahoe City,miles from wherehestood casting a line as gracefully as a ballet dancer.

Which is an oddimage,come tothink ofit. Bennett, 22, is the2014U.S.downhill champion, thelatest memberofthegreatTahoeskierspopulatingthenational team roster. He’sa6-foot-7-inchapproximation ofaspeeding missilewhenstrappingonskis.Fly-fishingmight seem contrarytoanadrenalinejunkie, but Bennettfindsparallels in histwin passions.

“I found it challenging,”hesays offishing. “There is so much technique involved. Then,youhave tolearn theriver, what bugsarehatchingandwhat the fish are eating. It’ssimilarto skiing, because the conditions are alwayschanging.”

BENNETT’S PROMISING SKI CAREER CANBE tracedtoanother historical monumenttotheregion. Thefirst recorded organizedski raceinU.S. history took placein 1867 northwest of Tahoe in theGold RushtownofLaPorte, where minersused long wooden planks to seewhogotdown thehill the fastest. What else werethey going to do when maritime storms coveredtheirminefieldswithcottony flakes?

TheSquawValleySki Resort, outsideofTahoeCity, opened inthe 1940s,like manyofthe lake’sfamed slopes. But it was Squaw Valley that put Tahoeon theskiingmapby playinghosttothe1960 Winter Olympics.Otherthanthe athleticcenter,now called theOlympicHouse, mostof thegames’ structures no longer existatSquaw Valley,whichhassince merged withaneighboring skiresort andisone of America’s largestskiareas.

Twoyears ago,folksin TahoeCityopened the cozy MuseumofSierraSkiHistoryand 1960Winter Olympics onthe second floor of TheBoatworks Mall. Among the famedTahoeresidents spotlighted is Tamara McKinney,athree-timeOlympicskier who in 1983 becamethe firstAmericanwoman to win the overall World Cup title,afeat not duplicateduntil LindseyVonncame along 25 years later.

McKinney,51, isasuccessfulreal estate agent these days,but shecontinuestohelp groom the next generation of Squaw Valley ski racers, including Francesca, her engaging teenage daughter, and their friendBryce Bennett.

Tamara andFrancesca live aboveOlympicValley,

Bryce Bennettchecks his linewhile fishing ontheLittleTruckee River. Bennett,a22-year-oldU.S.downhillchampion, likens fishing to skiing: “The conditionsarealways changing.”

wheretheycanseethe first hint of snowalongthe raggedridgesof Squaw Valley’sslopes.Tamarapoints out some of her favorite runsaswe climbthrough ShirleyCanyononanother one of those spectacular Tahoe dayhikes.

Thescenic 5-miletrek begins attheend ofthe resort, near whereMcKinneyoncelived. Onhotsummer days, anentrepreneurial Francescaused tosell lemonadetoparched hikersreturning from Shirley Lake.

Tamara leads an ascentoverthe rockytrail with Daisy,the Saint Bernard. Tamaradescribes Shirley Canyon as oneofthe area’s premier late-springhikes becauseofthe water.Thepathfollows Squaw Creek up 1,300feet. About halfwaytothe lake hikersarrive ataseries of cascades with inviting swimming holes. It’stheperfectdestination foranyonelooking for a picnicground and a cold dipin the snow-fed stream.

Thetrailbecomesmore challengingafter the waterfalls,with some steeppitchesovergranite slabs. Tamara andDaisyboundedup the smooth, hard rock as naturallyasthe breeze that ruffles the conifers. Retracing stepson thesetricky descents can bedaunting for thelesssure-footed. But Tamarahas a solution a milebeyondShirleyLake.

“Youcan alwaystake thetramdown,”she says. Squaw Valley’saerial tram, atthe 8,200-foot High Camp, opened May22 and runsthroughAug.30 this year. Italso is scheduled tooperate on weekends in September. Hikerstakingthe 2,000-vertical-foot ride down don’thave to pay.

Wehave nochoice buttohoof it downthe dusty trail, withalate afternoon light darting throughfallen treesscattershot across the understory.Francesca’s refreshmentstand is notwaitingat thebottom, as those days are but distant memories.But Tamara offeredanalternative: ajar oflemonade and gluten-free garlicchips at Fireside Pizza Company,at theSquaw ValleyVillage.

THE SHAKING WE FEELISTHE RESULTOF AN approaching truck in the railroadtunnel, our starting place. Would we meetour doom nearthe infamous spot wheremembers of theDonner Partyresortedto cannibalism to survive the harshwinterof1846?We just don’tknow for sure.

Hikingguidesdescribe the railroad tunnel excursion as a 3-miletrail thatincludes Washoe petroglyphs and the ChinaWall, near Rainbow Bridge, above Donner Lake. Mostsay nothing about Union Pacific Railroad trucks rumbling through the tunnels, slicing the eeriesilence withthe commotionof an armoredvehicle.Althoughthe railroad owns the property,the workerswelcome uswith quick waves as they pass.

Afascination with thetunnelsandasense of reliefkeepusgoing for miles, shining headlamps andretreatinginto theshadows whenever trucks squeeze through. Wepush onand oninto adarkness that illuminates the surprising ways Tahoe’sspiritis burnished into our souls. Deeper and deeperuntilthe echoesoftime transport us to a higher realm.

FOLLOWELLIOTTALMONDATTWITTER.COM/ ELLIOTTALMOND.

Strollrightup toawaterfall

Hikingnutstend to insistthatthe best sights canbe seenonlyafter daylongtreksoverabarelypossible mountain pass, but here'sone you can takegrandmother to:McWayFalls at Julia Pfeiffer BurnsState Parkin Big Sur,an80-foot cascade that tumblesover acliffand ontothe beach.It’ssaidto beone of the few suchconfigurations anywhere, andthebest viewingis aneasy half-milestroll tothe overlook.

Yes,easy hikes meancrowded hikes,soyou'll want to getthereearly tonaboneofthe freeparkingspots and avoid the $10 feeinthe nearby lot. Hoping to persuadeyour teenageson togo along?Justtell him McWayFallsmakes an appearanceinthe videoforDr. Dre’s“INeedaDoctor.”Fun for thewhole family!

For details, gotohttp://bit.ly/1iznodl.

Geekouton beerin Chico

Thebeermakerthat startedthecraftbreweryboom on the WestCoast isjustashort drive awayin Chico, but getahotel.You’llneedit after samplingthe nearly 20 varietieson tap atSierraNevadaBrewingCo., many of whichare hard tofind outside of Chico.The second-largest craft brewery in the nation, known for itstrademark pale ale, offers informative tours with tastings,includingalonger onecalledthe BeerGeek Tour.Reservations for the freetourare essential.And, come fall, SierraNevadahosts a popularOktoberfest event,but the6,000 ticketsto thetwo-day music, food and beerfestival sellout quickly.

For details, gotowww.sierranevada.com.

CruiseShastaLakein style

Evenwhen California’s largest reservoirishalf-emptyduringadrought, it’sstill huge.Youcanrent a floating home forafew daysand motor around the lake withthe windinyour face,feelinglikeLeonardo DiCaprio—withoutthe icebergs,of course.The best timetogois spring,when thelakeis highest,the bald eaglesareflying, the wildflowers are blooming, thebass are biting andthenoisy skiboatsarestill parkedin driveways. Prices are cheaper then,too.A three-night houseboat rental in theoffseasoncancost as little as $650for aboatthatsleeps six,butfor a top-shelf experience, youcan shellout $6,000 for a triple-deck,65-footboat thatsleeps26.Seven marinas rent houseboats.

For details, searchtheWeborgoto http://bit.ly/1PvpZpY.

Takean ambitioustripnorth

Wantto venturenorthward? Foratrulymemorable trip, takeseveraldays forthisthree-partjourney. First,while away an afternoon in Crockettwith good friends anddrinks (no corkage!),sizzling crab and shrimp on the patio ofTheDead Fish (20050 San Pablo Ave.),above the CarquinezStrait, overlooking a broad vistaofVallejo, MareIsland, thebayandMount Tamalpais, as sail and powerboats, tugs andfreighters ply the waters below. Then stopby Lucas Wharf (595 Highway1)inBodegaBayforafresh, scrumptious all-seafoodmeal. For thelastpartofyour trip,spend afew daysat OceanViewLodge(1141 N.Main St.) in FortBragg,wherethe rooms, each with a small deck, look across an open bluff to thePacificOcean,and youcanseetheMilky Wayatnight. Sitoutside your room, andwatchthehawks,buzzards, gulls andother birds glidealongin theoffshore breeze. Check www. fortbragg.com/events forlocal events, suchas crab and cioppinofeeds,the Whale Festival or the annual World'sLargest Salmon BBQ.

BringRufusalongtoBoonville

Loveto getawayfrom thehubbub of the big city but don’tliketo leaveyour beloved dogs athome?Sheep DungEstates,about 100 milesnorthof San Francisco, near Boonville,offers beautiful cottages on 800 acres ofglorious countryside whereyoucan kick back and enjoytheviews, andthe pets canrununtil they’rereadytodrop.Thecottages areequipped withmodern kitchens, Wi-Fiand hot tubs and are spread out so thatwhen you’resitting onyour front porch, youcan’tseeanyoneelsearound.Oncethe dogsarepoopedandcurled up, thehumans can dine in quaint Boonville,or check outsome of the nearbywineries.Andforanostalgictouchof home, theowners installedoneof thehuge DoggieDiner heads that usedtoadorn therestaurants all overthe Bay Area.

Hikeat HetchHetchy

Oftenoverlookedwhen traveling toYosemite, Hetch Hetchy is worththe effort. Ifthe Disneyland-long lines atYosemite are too much for the famtohandle —who stands in a queuetosee awaterfall? —check out the muchless crowded Hetch Hetchy,which packs peaceful vibes andboasts beautiful scenery.

For details, go tohttp://bayareane.ws/1PZjCNJ.

ON BODEGABAY

Whilethereis much fishing to do here, the crab fisheryin Bodega Bay is particularly popular during the Dungeness season, which typically runs fromearly November to the endofJune.

Fromtop: The SierraNevadabrewery drawsfans to Chico; a visitor walks along apier inBodega Bay;and hikers emergefrom a tunnel in Yosemite leading to theHetch Hetchy Reservoir.

14655 Highway128.For details, go towww.sheepdung.com.

Noneedforahotel:KickbackinahouseboatontheDelta

Amere90 minutes from the BayArealiestheSacramento-San Joaquin River Delta,aslow,warm, quietandtimeless place that can feel morelikeLouisianathan California. Howbest to appreciate suchachange of pace?Change yourown,via houseboat. These floating apartments can makefor adownrightaffordablevacation —noneedtospringforlodging,after all — not to mention a fun one. Outon thewater, you're asovereign nation, beholden onlytothe tides, yourwish for another beer or thepersonwhojustpushed youinto thewarmriver. —ChrisColin

Andy Clayton (from left) climbsdown fromthe roof of a houseboat at Paradise Point; thebow (center) and the wheelhouse await adventurous vacationers.

Above: The sunsets beyondthe Paradise Point Marina in Stockton, where aselection of houseboatsand skiboatsare availableto rent.

PHOTOGRAPHSBY DOUGDURAN

Catchaflickin thesticks

Remember movietheaters?Sure you do — picture a giant Netflix. But there are theaters,andthere are rural theaters. Russian River'sRio Theater—redwoodshere, meandering riverthere—isone of theneatestplaces to catchafirst-run flick. Built into a World WarII Quonset hut,the Rio is in some ways the cultural epicenter ofthe tiny town of MonteRio. Itdoesn'treally matter whatyou see;fortwohours,you'llwarpbackto asimplertime and place.And afterthe credits,you'll cannonballinto thewater.

20396BohemianHighway.For details, go towww.riotheater.com.

Takeatriptotheapplecapital

Thiscollection of appleranches inthe Sierrafoothills along Highway 50 is worth atrip east allonitsown duringharvestseason, but it’sanespeciallyenticing stoponthe wayto or from SouthLake Tahoe. While each orchard and farm stand has its charms, two of thelargest are an applecore’sthrow from eachother: BoaVista Orchards (2952 Carson Road, Placerville), whichis open all year and boasts an outstanding bake shopandalushU-Pick pumpkin patch, and High HillRanch(2901 High HillRoad,Placerville), which is open the FridaybeforeLabor Dayand hasabit more fun for thekids,including a trout pond and a craftfair.Comewinter, ventureabit farthereast, and cutdown aChristmas treeatHarris TreeFarm(2640 Blair Road, Pollock Pines). Oncethe tree’stied to the top of your car,you’llwant to grab a frozen pie or two,aswell.

Fordetails, gotowww.applehill.com.

Explorelavatubecaves

Makesure tobring extra flashlights as youexplore some of the hundreds of lavatubecavesthatLava Beds National Monument has to offer — without a guide. It’slikegoingback intime andreinventing yourselfasanexplorer.There are caves of varying degrees ofdifficulty,andtheeasiest, MushpotCave, is the only lit caveinthe park.In addition tospelunking, check outthe manyhiking trails, cinder cones andobsidianflows. Theterrain is fascinating, and you won’tseealotofpeople.The Indian Well Campgroundisthe onlyonein thepark,but nearby MedicineLakeisalsoatreasure.Plentyofmotels and bed-and-breakfasts are within close range if camping, or glamping,isn’tyour thing.

Fordetails, gotowww.nps.gov/labe/index.htm.

RelivetheGoldRush

If you wentto elementary school in California, the merementionofColomalikely bringstomindfourthgradelessons about the GoldRush. Nestled in the foothills along Highway49,betweenAuburn and Placerville,Marshall Gold DiscoveryState Historic Parkis a goodreal-worldreminder of what our state was likewhenJames Marshall found those shining flecks inthe American River in 1848 — andasolid antidote to realityTV such as“Gold Rush.”Guided walking tours are available, though it'sjust asfun to pokearound theold buildingsand the replicaof Sutter’sMill on your own. And on LivingHistory Days,the second Saturdayofeach month, you’ll getto seedocentsdressed up in period garbsharing more historical bits.

Fordetails, go towww.coloma.com

ON COLOMA

Whitewater rafting trips are availableonthe South Fork of the AmericanRiver for adventurers of allskill levels, with trips starting or ending in Coloma.

The namesakefruit is the main attractionatApple Hill ranches, but asthe year draws to a close, Christmas trees arealso plentiful.

Gogeothermalat Lassen

If you’rein the northcountry,checkout Lassen Volcanic National Park, where you canexplore the many geothermal features, includingfumaroles, mudpots andcolorful boilingpools. Take a5-mileround-trip hike toLassen Peak, which now isopenallthe way afterafive-year restorationproject. The park also boastsendlessbackwoods trails and pristinewildernesscamping sites, includingspots atManzanita Lake andother nearbylakes.If yourequirethecomforts of home, Drakesbad GuestRanch isyour place.

For details, go towww.nps.gov/lavo/index.htm.

StockupinSutterCreek

TheGoldRushtownofSutter Creekis booming again. Thelatestaddition toits charming Main Street is Sutter CreekProvisions(78 MainSt.), an artisan market, craft beeremporium andmodern honky tonk in an atmospheric 1869 rough-hewnstonebuilding. Loadup on gourmet picnic supplies,and head to nearbyShenandoahValley wineries, or settleinat the family-friendly bar with weekendlive music. There aremore tunes in the old vault wheretheowners broadcastan American roots radio show.Makeit a weekendat modern Hanford House Inn(61 Hanford St.),justafew doors down.

TakeaYosemitesidetrip

Driving intoYosemite from its southernentrance, all visitorspass through theblink-and-miss-it town of Oakhurst.Blink atyour peril. Clutchedaroundtwo intersectinghighways, this smallspur ofcivilization in the SierraNevada foothills boasts a surprisingly robust artsscene,the refreshingly unpretentious Idle HourWinery(41139 Highway 41)andevenafivestardestination restaurant, Erna's ElderberryHouse (48688 Victoria Lane). Onceasupplier to mines and lumber companies, Oakhurst isnowaquiet,piney outpost —just10 miles from glittering BassLake, a worthystopallits own.

Gearup forgrilling

Carnivores, rejoice.TravelHighway 88 toLockeford, and fill your cooler withbratwurst, bangersorother varietiesofsausages —hotItalian, Hawaiianorpesto, anyone?—at Lockeford Meat & Sausage Services.See thelinesnaking out the door? There’sareason for that.

19775N.Cotton St.Fordetails,goto 209-727-5584.

Gettoknowtheshakyground

If you’reat Pinnacles National Park to hike orcamp or just takearide down togawk atthespires,don’tleave without checking out the visitor center at the Hollister side of the park.The center not only tracks ground movement, but also shows howthe Pinnacles areactuallyhalf ofamountain range, the other halfnow being severalhundred milessouth, around LosAngeles. Learning about how long it took for therangestoseparate gives youastriking sense ofgeology and time.

For details, go towww.nps.gov/pinn/index.htm.

PokearoundhistoricLocke

Stepinto thepast atthe LockeHistoricDistrict,located betweenStockton and Sacramento. Built byChinese immigrants 100 years ago,the district roseatatime when Asian immigrants couldnot own land.The buildings,which are muchthe same now as then, housea visitorcenter,two museumsand somerestaurants.

For details, go towww.locketown.com.

Tastewinein Murphys

ThetownofMurphys is known toGoldRushhistorians as having been one of the state’srichest “diggins.” Butthis small town increasinglyisbecomingknown as a wine destination, whereboutiquewineries are welcoming of visitors seeking tastings and tours. With about 23wineries intown andnearby,oenophiles can spend along weekendand still notbeableto makeit to all the tastingrooms.

For details, go tohttp://visitmurphys.com.

Wanderin NevadaCity

Youknowthatideal mountain town, perfect for wanderingup and down its quaint streets, andinandout of its antique shops? That'sNevadaCity.Grab adrink attheMineShaft (222Broad St.)or the CrazyHorse (230 Commercial St.)—both aredelightfully divey drinking emporiums, about ablock from each other. Nevada Cityand especiallyneighboringGrass Valley (which boasts similar charm, but is a bit more working-class) are famous for theirCornish pasties. Eat up.

HistoricSutter Creek serves as a home base forexploring thegoldcountry.Amador County wineries are nearby, as is the townofJackson.

EUREKAINTERVIEW

Suchgreatheights

CONVERSATIONWITHCORAMcGLAUFLIN ||| BYCHUCKBARNEY

AnyonewhohasvisitedYosemite NationalPark isfamiliarwiththoseever-popular“GoClimbaRock” T-shirts. Cora McGlauflin takesthatmessage toheart. Since moving to the BayAreafrom Minnesotain2012,she hasmade 20-plustreksto Yosemite, enjoyingitsmajestyfrom the park’stoweringmonumentsofgranite. McGlauflin,amember of the group SheClimbsBayArea,is among the fast-growing numberoffemale rockclimbers whofindfreedom and empowermentin the sport. Wespokewith heraboutthe thrillsof“getting vertical.”

LEARNMOREATWWW.SHECLIMBS-BA.ORG

Some peoplehavetrouble climbing aflight of stairs. What makesyou so goodat climbingbigrocks?

Itreallyallboils down to the fact that Ilove it.Iloved climbing when Ifirst tried it,andIcontinue to love it. Myabilitytoclimb big rocks was a naturalprogression of skills and confidencebuilt over manyyears ofclimbing and havingagreattime.

So were youoneof those overactive kidswho couldn’tstop playing onthemonkey bars or clamberingall overtheplace?

Yeah,Idefinitelywaskind ofa wildchild.Iwasalways outside, and myfriendsand I used toplay in this big ravine nearourhouse. Wealso spent alot oftime inthis reallyjanky treehouse.

And you’ve never stopped rising to new heights.

Moreorless.But Ifind thatIenjoy it for different reasonsnow.

Howso?

When I wasyounger, itwas mainlyabout competing. Iwanted to bestronger and faster than others. Iwantedtogohigher.I still enjoy pushingmyselfanddoingthe difficultroutes, but now, I’ve really grown to cherish the communityofpeoplewho love thesamethingIdo andbeingout in nature.

What doesit taketo makethe hard climbs?

Forme personally, thetoughest part ofaclimb isamental struggle and not a physicaldifficulty. All the climbsthat I do are within myphysicalability.The mental struggles happen when I’mclimbingalong andstart to freak out a little. … Sometimes Igetalittle psyched outandgetsomenegative vibes. Whenthat happens,I’ll gettoabigledgeand sitthere for awhileand relax.

That seemstotally understandable. So, arethereany misconceptions aboutrock climbing?

Alot of people think youneed incredibleupper-bodystrength, but that’skind ofafallacy.Women cangetup a mountain using balanceandtechniqueand their leg strength.

Do you have any advice forpeople lookingtoget into the sport?

Justgetout there. Startwith single-pitchclimbing. Getfamiliar withthe rock andtherating and go from there. Take that first step. Do one climb, andyou’re in theclub.

Tellus about yourmost memorable dayas a climber.

That’seasy.It’sthefirsttime I madeitto thetopofHalf Dome. Ifelt really good — and proud of myself —for havingclimbed it rather than hikedit. Before moving to California,Ihad seen so many incrediblephotosofHalf Dome forso long. Itwas sobeautiful and enticing.To finally be up therewas prettysweet.

What was your first climbing experienceinYosemite?

Istartedout ontheManure Pile Buttress. That’snot themostappealingtitle inthevalley —or the toughest climb — but you’vegotta startsomewhere.

Wasthereanything different about climbingthere?

Ihad never climbed on granite before,and I found it to be a completelydifferent experience. Granite isthe best becauseit’s averysolid type ofrock.Andin Yosemite, the granite has these wonderful cracks in them that make for greatpathways to climb up the cliffs.

Alot ofus havebeen to Yosemite, butwe haven’tallexperienced it fromtheheights youhave. Tellus whatwe flatlanders are missing.

Well, you’reway above the trees, so at nightyou canseeabig blanketof stars completely unobstructed. And duringtheday,I’ve seenflocks of songbirds flyright by ateyelevel.

Anything else?

Of course, you’vegotincredible viewsthat goon forever.Ispent one nightuponahumongous ledgeonarock formation called WashingtonColumn. Asthesun was setting, Icould look down and seeallthe people buzzing around the valley floor. They seemedso busy.

And thereyou were, far from thecrowd.

Yeah, I always thoughtthat simply being in Yosemite was getting awayfromit from it all. But when Iwas uponthatledgeand getting ready to sleep, I remember saying to myself: “Now, I’mreally getting awayfromit all.”

HAVEYOUFOUNDIT?

Eureka—thenameofthismagazine—hasbeenCalifornia'sofficialstatemottosince1963,thoughit hasappearedonthestate sealsince1849.Thephrase(whichmeans“I havefoundit”)referencesthediscoveryof goldat Sutter’sMillby JamesMarshall in1848,whichkickedofftheGoldRush.Intheofficialtextfromthattime,theword’smeaningapplies“eithertotheprinciple involvedintheadmissionof thestateorthesuccessof themineratwork.”Thenotionof discoveryisaliveandwellin ourstate today,andit’sourhopethatin thepreceding82 pages,you’vediscoveredafewnewcornersofthisgoldenlandinwhichwelive.