BEAUTY UNDERGROUND LIBERTY | VOLUME SEVEN | 2017
MANIFESTO WE CREATE ILLICIT, SPONTANEOUS FASHION. WE MAKE FEARLESS BEAUTY IMAGES. WE REFUSE TO BE CONTROLLED BY ANYTHING BUT OUR DESIRE TO TAKE DRAMATIC, PROVOCATIVE AND BEAUTIFUL PICTURES. WE ARE PHOTOGRAPHERS, HAIRDRESSERS, MAKEUP ARTISTS, FASHION STYLISTS AND MODELS. WE ARE
THE BEAUTY UNDERGOUND.
Creator: Charlie Price Graphic Design: David Rossa Editor: Elana Ashanti Jefferson
lib·er·ty ˈlibərdē noun 1. the state of being free within society from oppressive restrictions imposed by authority on one’s way of life, behavior, or political views. 2. the power or scope to act as one pleases.
Sarah Sebet by Darren Trentacosta; photography: Darren Trentacosta; creative makeup direction: Marc Cornwall for Privé by Laurent D NYC; post: Eve Harlowe
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BY ZAN TINE
Photography: David Rossa Hair: Keva Davis, Kia Sterling and James Mucker Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Miarra Jackson, Jasmine Heard, Germany Tryels and Sirfoss Toaiva Fashion styling: Charlie Price and Tiaja Pierre
BLACK HAIR NOW The politics of hair and race converge in 2017’s politically-charged mainstream American dialogue. By Elana Ashanti Jefferson Culture vultures need not look far to find a black woman in America with a scarring childhood swimming pool story. Kia Sterling’s story unfolded when she was 10 years old. “I went to camp with mostly white kids,” says Sterling, 48, who’s now a Philadelphia hairstylist. “One day we all went swimming…” Other kids quickly noticed how Sterling’s hair remained thick and textured in the pool instead of becoming long, straight and slick with moisture. “My white girlfriends were like, ‘Kia, what’s wrong with your hair?!” The following year before summer camp began, Sterling strong-armed her mother into relaxing her natural hair. “I felt accepted,” she says of the first time she emerged from the pool with straight, wet hair. “Looking back, it’s insane that I wasn’t able to embrace my natural texture.” Today, black people have more choices than ever about how to wear and care for their hair — seemingly endless options that some hairdressers believe contribute to the politicization of ‘ebony hair.’ But within black families, communities and circles of friends, there remains a gray area about whether to assert one’s identity through a natural hairstyle, or fall in line with mainstream beauty ideals rooted in slavery and the ugliest aspects of the African diaspora. (Continues after collage.)
The politics of style Some Americans found 2017 to be a tough year to watch, read or listen to the news. Among the stories that fueled the country’s festering racial and socioeconomic discord: Hypercriticism of some hairstyles selected by black school kids. Consider Maya and Deanna Cook. At the time they made national news, the two AfricanAmerican twin sisters were high school sophomores at Mystic Valley Regional Charter School just outside of Boston, Mass., an institution where a strict dress code bars students from wearing “drastic or unnatural hair colors or styles.” The sisters figured their braided cornrows were natural, and anything but drastic. Their principal disagreed. The girls subsequently received detention, were kicked off sports teams, and prohibited from going to the school prom — all because of their hair. Their mother called out Mystic Valley administrators in the press for using the dress code to target students of color. “There’s nothing wrong with their hair the way it is,” Colleen Cook told Newsweek magazine. “Their hair is beautiful.”
Hair hysteria runs deep The Cook sisters’ story was but a drop in the bucket when it comes to using hairstyle to squeeze people into social, political and economic boxes that were built by those in power to control the disenfranchised. “The norm remains white, even for me,” British politician Chi Onwurah wrote in a June 2017 column in The Guardian newspaper. “Black beauty will be political until the day it is seen as normal.” Onwurah explained how she felt pressured to emulate mainstream beauty norms when she was first elected to Parliament in 2010: “I did not feel I could wear my hair in its natural curly state in the chamber. I thought it would not be seen as ‘professional’ … My expectation of normality was set, like Andromeda’s beauty, on white terms. It was only after a (white) constituent insisted I looked so much happier at home in Newcastle with my hair ‘out’ — rather than scrunched up and straightened in the chamber — that I finally (had) the courage to go natural.” Writing under the moniker “The Real Black Historian,” blogger Jermaine Broadnax recently detailed some of the history that shaped mainstream American beauty standards with regards to black hair. Among the highlights from his lesson: 1700s — Calling black hair “wool,” many whites dehumanize slaves. The more elaborate African hairstyles cannot be retained. 1800s — Without the combs and herbal treatments used in Africa, slaves rely on bacon grease, butter and kerosene as hair conditioners and cleaners. Lighter-skinned, straighthaired slaves command higher prices at auction than darker, more kinky-haired ones. Internalizing color consciousness, blacks promote the idea that blacks with dark skin and kinky hair are less attractive and worth less. 1865 — Slavery ends, but whites look upon black women who style their hair like white women as well-adjusted. “Good hair” becomes a prerequisite for entering certain schools, churches, social groups and business networks.
If these locs could talk “I’ve nicknamed the post-emancipation era ‘the great oppression’ because that’s when black people had to go through really intensive methods to smooth their hair,” curator Aaryn Lynch told BBC News in 2015 ahead of an exhibit at the Museum of Liverpool that examined the connection between black hair and black history. “Black people felt compelled to smoothen their hair and texture to fit in easier, and to move in society.” Among Kia Sterling’s multi-ethical clientele, pressure persists to emulate a certain look, especially in corporate America. “A lot of people who work in corporate still say, ‘Oh no! I can’t get braids. I can’t get anything too ‘extreme.’” And it’s not just black women who struggle with hair and style stereotyping. In particular, black men who wear dreadlocks suffer through unfair profiling. For Cincinnati hairdresser Keva Davis, the first word that comes to mind regarding black hair politics is: Smothering. At one time, Davis felt pressure to wear her hair straight and soft when she represented particular haircare product companies. Then, she, “asked the marketing director’s opinion about me wearing my hair in its natural texture. I was told that I could wear my hair however I wanted, as long as I had photos available of how my hair looks when it’s smooth.” She realized the pressure she’d put on herself to ‘look the part.’ “I had a revelation that it was a self-imposed limitation because of what I was used to doing to fit in to society’s idea of what my hair should look like,” Davis says. Now she sports braids whenever the wants. “I don’t think the way I wear my hair has anything to do with my performance ability, with my demeanor or how I carry myself,” she says. “My hair doesn’t denote what or who I am. If I want to wear braids. If want to wear an afro. If I want to wear my hair straight, it shouldn’t matter.” Davis concedes that the monolithic stereotyping and social pressure around how black men and women choose to style their hair is, “not as bad as it was 40 years ago.”
Stepped-up styling A recent post on the website TheRightHairstyles.com examined how today’s black hairstyles are both ‘decorative and functional.’ Slideshows on the website spotlight hundreds of short haircuts, stylized bobs, goddess braids and up-do options for black women. “Long hairstyles for black women stand out with their exceptional creativity, reflected in intricate braided patterns, heavenly curls and breathtaking up-do(s)… African American short hairstyles embrace chic puffs, tapered styles, funky Mohawk hairstyles for black women and much more!” Readers of Sophisticate’s Black Hair Styles and Care Guide™ voted Zendaya, Kerry Washington and Taraji P. Henson among the 2017’s trendsetters from black women. All three entertainers predominately wore straight hair throughout 2017. But two years earlier, Zendaya famously drew quasi-racist commentary for donning long, thick, auburn, faux dreadlocks on the Oscar red carpet, from “Fashion Police” show host Giuliana Rancic: “I feel like she smells like patchouli oil ... or maybe weed.” Denver hairstylist and Beauty Underground artist James Mucker says more products and knowledge about black hair opened the door for people of color to use hair as a way of reconnecting with their ethnic heritage. Natural styles, he says, are more popular among his black clients than ever. On the other end of the spectrum, vivid color, edgy cuts, and less damaging relaxers and chemicals enable some black people to push the style envelope in a way they never have before. “More people are more involved in their hair now,” Mucker says, “regardless of race.”
BODY POLITIC Photography: Andrey Kosik; makeup: Tamriko, stylist: Andrey Kosik and Iryna Starynko; models: Masha Yelagina, Mari Anikina, Valerie Samodaeva & Ivanna
PRIESTESS Photography: John Rawson; hair: Charlotte Mensah; makeup: Lan Grealis
G I R L S
Photography: John Rawson Hair: Alain Pereque Makeup: Paco Puerta Styling: Tinache Musara
FA CET Creative Direction, Photography and Hair: Damien Carney Color: Rossa Jurenas Makeup: Aya Kudo
FADE TO BLACK Hair: Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Davines Color: Roch Lemay, Monia Grieco for Davines Makeup: Ekaterina Ulynoff, Richard St Laurent
DIS CO QUE EN
Photographer: Joe Friend Hair: Charlie Price Makeup: Liz Wegrzyn Stylist: Georgia Alexia Benjou Models: Janelle Tejan and Jordan Wright
Christian Louboutin platform sandals, $995, Neiman Marcus.
Nili Lotan blouse, $625, MAX. Cinq à Sept skirt, $285, and Luv AJ wire hoop earrings, $35, both Bazar.
Shirt, smoking jacket and pants, all courtesy of Charlie Price. Velvet slippers, model’s own.
Donna Karan Urban Zen tunic, $3,995, Neiman Marcus. Crow Jane double hoop earrings, $58, Trunk Nouveau. Shoes, model’s own.
Jacket, shirt and pant, all courtesy of Charlie Price. Slipper’s, model’s own.
Jacket, shirt and pant, all courtesy of Charlie Price.
Equipment camisole, $138, and Luv AJ wire hoop earrings, $35, both Bazar.
(Left and right page) Pol bra, $39, One Star dress, $52, and Bear Dance sequin pants, $68, all Canary In A Clothesmine. Luv AJ wire hoop earrings, $35, both Bazar. Shoes, stylist’s own.
Donna Karan Urban Zen top, $1,595, Neiman Marcus. Luv AJ layered necklace, $100, Bazar.
(Left and right page) On Her: Donna Karan Urban Zen dress, $1,295, Neiman Marcus. Fringe collar, $64, Canary In A Clothesmine. Elizabeth & James pearl drop earrings, $105, Bazar. Shoes, stylist’s own. On Him: Shirt, model’s own. Tie, stylist’s own. Pant’s courtesy of Charlie Price.
Saint Laurent dress, $1,614, and Stuart Weitzman boots, $775, both Neiman Marcus. Catherine Popesco earrings, $48, Trunk Nouveau.
On Her: Elizabeth & James jumpsuit, $465, Bujibaja faux fur, $96, and Luv AJ wire hoop earrings, $35, all Bazar. Shoes, stylist’s own. On Him: Shirt and pants, courtesy of Charlie Price.
RE SUR GENCE Hair: Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure Davines Color: Roch Lemay for Davines Makeup: Ekaterina Ulyanoff
WA TER WOR SHIP Charlie Price Photoshoot Atelier Photography: David Rossa Hair: Amanda Straith, Rachel Cohen, KJ Murphy & Marishka Lynch Makeup: Kari Kisch Production & Wardrobe Styling: Tiaja Pierre Models: Donna Baldwin
A RA BI A
Photographer: Richard Monsieurs Hair: Pietjan Duivenvoorden Makeup: Tim Kruik for Balmain Hair Couture Wardrobe: Django Steenbakker Model: Rabia
GAR CONS Photographer: Scott Cooper Hair: Ben Barkworth Makeup: Taylor Chousky Wardrobe: Ben Barkworth
ORI GA MI Photography: Damien Carney Stylist: Nikko Kefalas Hair: Damien Carney Makeup: Roque Cozzette Model: Natalia Bogdanova (Q models NYC)
Black sheer top, Balmain Paris; black leather shorts, Victor de Souza; bracelet and earrings, Laruicci
(Left and right page) Black origami dress, Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garcon; black metal chain mail top, Fannie Schiovani; black crocodile gloves, The Row; black thigh high boots, Giuseppe Zanotti Design
(Right and left page) Black origami dress, Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garcon; black metal chain mail top, Fannie Schiovani; black crocodile gloves, The Row; black thigh high boots, Giuseppe Zanotti Design
(Left and right page) Black braided leather and chain jacket, Iris Van Herpen Couture
(Left and right page) Black braided, fridge leather and sheer dress, Iris Van Harpen Couture; metal armor accessory, Laurel Dewitt; black gloves, Saint Laurent; black thigh high boots, Giuseppe Zanotti Design
FR EE SP IR IT
Photography: David Racuglia Hair: Charlie Price Makeup: Liz Wegrzyn Fashion Styling: Georgia Benjou Model: Manon Crespi
Left: Christine silk and lace chemise, SOL. The Woods diamond earrings, Goldyn. Right: The Row polyester tunic, and polymide pant, Lawrence Covell. Celine boot, MAX. Ariana Boussard-Reifel Despina brass cuff, and Georgia brass hoop earrings, Goldyn.
Marni acetate and silk top and acetate and polyester pant, Lawrence Covell.
Haider Ackermann silk dress, MAX. Jimmy Choo Lark ankle strap bootie, Nordstrom. The Woods Stirrup diamond necklace, Goldyn.
Photography: David Rossa Hair: Charlie Price Hair Color: Bri Bird, Hannah Werling and Stephan Lauren Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Daryan Massey and Oksana Hassel at Goldie Mae Productions; Camilla Dooley (freelance)
DR AG ON Photography: Joseph Cartright | Concept, hairstyling, and artistic direction: Chrystofer Benson Haircolor: Chrystofer Benson | Makeup: Danielle Donahue Wardrobe Styling: Greta Coston
COU PLES THER APY GEORGIA AND T Photography: Charlie Price Hair and Makeup: Bri Bird
COU PLES THER APY KOTOMI AND JAKE Photography: Charlie Price Hair and Makeup: Bri Bird
COU PLES THER APY RACHEL AND DAVID Photography: Charlie Price Hair and Makeup: Bri Bird
COU PLES THER APY SUZANNE AND GARY Photography: Charlie Price Hair and Makeup: Bri Bird
D E P T H Photography: John Rawson Hair: Charlie Brackney Styling: Sarah Cochran Makeup: Heath Bryant-Huppert
IN DI GO Photographer: Jacek Jarzabek Hair: Charlie Price and Stephan Lauren Makeup: Beka Sanders Body Painter: Markarius Williams Models: Janell Tejan & Elise Tucker
R O U G E
Charlie Price Photoshoot Atelier Photography: David Rossa Hair: Amanda Straith, Rachel Cohen, KJ Murphy, Marishka Lynch & Hannah Werling Makeup: Kari Kisch Production & Wardrobe Styling: Tiaja Pierre Gowns: Norma Kamali from Garbarini Models: Donna Baldwin
LAU RA O KI TA Self Portraits
Photographer, hair & makeup: Laura Okita
DAY AF TER
Photographer: Mateusz Kostka Hair & Stylist: Fika Makeup: Julka SĹ‚upek Models: Edyta
Photography: David Rossa Hair: Charlie Price Makeup: Sarah Brentano Subjects: Tiaja and Ron Pierre
GALAXY Photographer: Kale Friesen; Hair: Michelle Pargee; Makeup: Ashley Gestner; Models: Claire Wright, Stefanie Wright and Shayla Rose
NU Photographer: Kevin Alexander Hair: Ron Lopez (L’Oreal Professionnel/ El Salon) Makeup: Katelyn Simkins Models: Liv Walker, Gemma James and Sophia LeBeaumont (Donna Baldwin Agency)
DE
THE SEEN Photographer: John Rawson Hair: Charlie Brackney & The Haus Salon Creative Team, Minneapolis, USA Makeup: Heath Bryant-Huppert Styling: Sarah Cochran Nails: Jan Rollof
UGLY MEN Photography: Richard Monsieurs Hair: Petra vd Burg Makeup: Marinella Baks Styling: Annet Veerbeek
W H ITE Photographer: John Rawson Hair: Shogo Ideguchi Makeup: Hannah Davies Styling: Jared Green
ALCHEMY Photography: Jake Thompson and Charlie Price Hair and Makeup: Shareena Hansen, Katie Nielsen and Charlie Price Production Assistant: Jeremy McDougle Models: Eskimo Iceland Location: Reynisfjara, Iceland
AT LA NT IC
Part One:
SLAVES OF NEW YORK
Creative Direction: Charlie Price, Katie Nielsen and Shareena Hansen Photography: David Rossa Architectural Photography: Charlie Price Hair: Keva Davis, Bri Bird, Lindsey Mollenhauer and Kelli Mason Makeup: Tiaja Pierre and Marina Christine Fashion Stylist: Asa Maria Camnert Fashion: Bernhard Willhelm and Xuly Bet at People’s Revolution, NYC) Models: Aysha Mirza, Katarina Ermilova and LaMia Edwards Location: Root Studios & Chelsea Piers, NYC
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Part Two:
ANGLOPHILIA Creative Direction: Charlie Price, Katie Nielsen and Shareena Hansen Photography: Melanie Watson Hair: Keva Davis, James Mucker, Stephan Lauren, Shareena Hansen, Katie Nielsen, Bri Bird and Jill Leitz Makeup: Charlie Price Fashion: Rachel Marie Hurst Models: Hair Models Agency Production Assistant: Victoria Rossa Location: London, UK
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Part Three:
EMERALD ISLE Creative Direction: Charlie Price and Shareena Hansen Photography: Melanie Watson & David Rossa Hair and makeup: Charlie Price and Shareena Hansen Fashion: Rachel Marie Hurst Models: Assetts Dublin Production Assistant: Victoria Rossa Location: Clontarf Castle Dublin, Bunratty Castle and Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
THE DOCTOR IS IN Denver’s JAMES MUCKER talks addiction and recovery, coping with style copycats, and how he’s managed to keep some beloved clients for decades. Interview by Elana Ashanti Jefferson At age 8, James Mucker was doing shampoos and cleaning out rollers for his first customers at a salon run by his mother’s close friend. Mom did hair, too. But she also worked as a seamstress and taught public school for more than three decades. It follows that Mucker, now 50, embodies the confidence that comes from good roots. He’s done enough living to slay personal demons, and basks in the achievement of a 34-year beauty career that’s cemented his place as a hometown style icon. Beauty Underground: If you could change one thing about the beauty industry, what would it be? JAMES: I’d like to see more of the product companies giving back to the hairdressers like they used to. We’re what built them. Without us, they wouldn’t have been able to shelve the product. A lot of these companies, when they first started, they were small and closer to the hairdressers. Now, it’s all corporate. It’s all about business, and you know it. Beauty Underground: How much does sexuality play into beauty trends? JAMES: You’ve got people who want that sexy hair. They don’t want to look blau. But not everybody wants that. I cater to a variety of people, so I know who wants to look sexy and who doesn’t want to look sexy. There is always that one person who you’ve got to give a little push, because they do want it, for a change. But they need that little push. Beauty Underground: How did you decide on your own hairstyle? JAMES: I have a braider. I always like to do something different and edgy. So I get her to push that envelope. Because I want to be pushed, too. I used to just wear it braided and long and down, maybe pulled back in a ponytail. But clients need to see that I’m changing my hair, too. Because I have copycats — both men and women. I see it working out, too. People always notice my hair.
Beauty Underground: How much of your job doesn’t have anything to do with hair? JAMES: I think it’s about 80 or 90 percent (other things). You are their psychiatrist, their confidant. You’re a friend. And they really rely on you. Sometimes you’re more a part of their life than their husband or their girlfriends. So they keep coming back to the salon. I have clients that come in three or four times a week, and I have clients (for whom) I go to their house every day. I’ve become a part of the family. Beauty Underground: How do you maintain balance, especially when you’re so involved with some of your clients? JAMES: Well, you know, I can cut it off. I do what I have to do for that person, whatever it takes to make them happy. A lot of them, they weren’t happy (before), and they’re happier (now) because they’re listening to me talk about what restaurants to go to, what shoes to wear, what clothes to wear. Some of my older clients now are changing their look, so they like advice about that. Beauty Underground: How do you recharge? JAMES: As soon as I go home, I turn it off! I watch TV and listen to music. There are a couple of them who I do all the time. So they call and they want to talk, and that’s fine. But I do take care of me. I work out in the morning. I go to the gym every day at 4 a.m., and I have a trainer. I do cardio and weights. I’m trying to restructure myself, after struggling with drug and alcohol addiction for years. But then my parents died, and my lover died, and I had to turn myself around. So I stopped cold turkey. That was 10 years ago. Most hairdressers fall victim to addiction. People don’t know that. Beauty Underground: Why do you think hairdressers are so drawn to the party? JAMES: Because they have so much going on. It’s a fast life with fast money. So we spend, sometimes to overcompensate for something that’s not going right in your life. But there are some people who can drink and be fine. Beauty Underground: How is your perspective different now that you’re sober? JAMES: I’m loving life. I can see things clearly. I have more energy. I feel more free. I just love life! Beauty Underground: Is it hard to maintain your sobriety? JAMES: Mmm-mmm… NO. It’s got to be something you want to do. If you don’t truly want it, then you won’t do it. Beauty Underground: How do you feel about aging? JAMES: I embrace it, every day that I get up. You can’t go back. So the best thing to do is just go with it and keep yourself feeling good and current in this ever-changing and evolving world.
POSITIVE AFFIRMATION
Beauty Underground: How do you reconcile mainstream beauty ideals with reality?
After graduating from high school in Cincinnati, Keva Davis made a sound and practical choice: An accounting degree followed by a challenging but fulfilling bookkeeping job.
KEVA: With my children, I never had a scale in the house, because I did not want them to become obsessed with it. With our genetics, we’re usually not large people. Growing up, I was petite, and I never liked it, because thickness was in, like it is now. I didn’t have that thickness. So I didn’t like my body. But I did not want that for my children. I want them to be comfortable with who they are. So whenever I would do their hair or help them get dressed, I would tell them, ‘You are beautiful and smart.’ Just give them positive affirmations so they wouldn’t grab onto society’s ideas are about who we’re supposed to be. Now, my oldest daughter, she’s strong and confident, and she doesn’t take any crap!
But the comforts of her office gig did little to quell the siren call of Davis’ inner hairdresser.
Beauty Underground: What do you like in the world of popular culture?
When the time came for layoffs around the office, Davis, 43, knew the beauty business was her next stop.
KEVA: Oh goodness, I love movies. Marvel movies. My genres are action, comedy and suspense. I do not like dramas... I don’t not want to cry at the movies!
Along the way, she learned to celebrate and magnify natural beauty over canned, mainstream caricatures.
Beauty Underground: What do you do to stay healthy?
Even when she worked in another field, the salon life tugged at KEVA DAVIS like a poet’s unwritten prose. Interview by Elana Ashanti Jefferson
Beauty Underground: How do you like Cincinnati? KEVA: Cincinnati is a very conservative city that likes to say that it’s not. When it comes to trends or change, Cincinnati is more of a follower than a leader. It’s definitely the Midwest. Beauty Underground: How would you describe your personal style? KEVA: I like to be comfortable, and I’m aware of my “body type.” I like to wear dresses. I like the A-Line dress. My dress has to have pockets, because it’s useful in my industry. And who doesn’t want a dress with pockets? …It’s hard for me to see anything that’s not black. And I like little cute hats. If I see you next month, you might not recognize me because my hair is different. I just like to be free with my style — but comfortable. Beauty Underground: What’s your favorite thing about working in beauty, and what’s your least favorite thing about the work? KEVA: My favorite thing about working in beauty, at least in what I’m doing, is that I get to meet different people, and I get to help them feel good about themselves, feel more confident, make them feel beautiful. My least favorite would be dealing with difficult people. Sometimes it can be trying, but it does stretch you, and it makes you. It helps develop you. You can use that in anything you do.
KEVA: I listen to my body. I like food. I love to eat, I love bacon. I know that there are people around me who follow certain diets. But I listen to my body, because your body tells you want it needs and what it doesn’t. You just have to be aware of it. Sure, there are some things that I don’t eat a lot of, and I do watch my portion size. But it’s not something that I obsess over. I’m in a liturgical dance group through my church. One of the people I dance with wanted to do a race and wanted me to do it, too. I was like, oh I need to train for this! So I started walking a mile, and incorporating that into my daily routine, and building up from there. I used to run track in high school. So I do that. Beauty Underground: How do you feel about aging? KEVA: I’m comfortable with it. People don’t think I’m my age anyway. I see my mom, and she’s aging gracefully, as they say. She doesn’t have much gray hair. I also think that the older I get, the more life experiences I can have. Beauty Underground: If a young person comes to you and says, ‘I’m thinking about beauty school,’ what one, key message would you impart on that person? KEVA: Always keep learning, because this field is so broad. There are so many things that you can do, you will never ever learn everything. So don’t think that you know everything, because there’s always something new popping up.
ROCK ‘N’ REFINED Philadelphia’s KIA STERLING is one part artist, one part psychologist, and all class. Interview by Elana Ashanti Jefferson KIA STERLING takes seriously the artistry demanded of today’s top hairdressers. That doesn’t mean Sterling, 48, thinks of her career as being just about hair.
I also practice yoga. I try to do it 3-4 times a week. I want to keep in shape, but I’m just not a gym person. Beauty Underground: What spurred your choice to become vegan? KIA: I went on vacation to Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic. The second morning there, I got this really bad pain in my knee, and my knee swelled up really bad. As the day went on, it got bigger and bigger and I couldn’t walk. I went to a clinic at the resort. They gave me Cortisone, and it helped. Then on the way home, my shoulder started having that same pain. So when I got home, I went immediately from the airport to the emergency room. They ran tests and did X-rays, and said, ‘You’re in the early stages of arthritis.’ I was like, what’s arthritis? I started doing some research, and you know, we’re very hard-headed. They gave me all this medicine. I’m not a big medicine person. I tried it, but it didn’t really work. Then I found out that inflammation causes arthritis. And what causes inflammation? Animal byproducts.
Increasingly, she says, succeeding in salons and the broader beauty business means mastering image management and branding — two things that seem to come easily to this glowing “baby vegan” with a show-stopping billow of thick, dark curls.
I’ve been vegetarian since I was 18. I became pescatarian about five years ago. So I decided I’d try being vegan for a couple of weeks, and I felt 150 percent better. I had no more joint pain. Now it’s been a year.
Here, Sterling, whose current salon is The Artist Haus, talks about why doing hair these days is about so much more than styling.
I think veganism could be for everyone. The big thing is educating yourself. It’s mind over matter. You really have to stretch your mental muscle. But it’s one of the best decisions I ever made.
Beauty Underground: What are you following in popular culture?
Beauty Underground: How do you feel about aging?
KIA: I adore Erykah Badu. She’s on tour right now. She’s one of my faaaves. Also Rihanna. She just seems very real to me. I love her fashion savvy. She seems very artistic, and I love how she gives back. Beauty Underground: If a young person came to you and said, ‘I’m thinking about going to beauty school,’ what one piece of advice would you want to give that person? KIA: Practice. Study. Perfect your craft. Never stop learning. You’re always a student of the craft. Beauty Underground: How would you describe your personal style? KIA: Rock ‘n’ refined. It’s classic but edgy at the same time. That came from my clients. I listen to my clients talk, and I watch the type of hairstyles they want. A couple years back, when I started branding myself, I started paying closer attention to the clients I attract. A lot of my clients who are professional women are more modern and chic. And then I have clients who are artists, and who are more edgy and hardcore. I feel like my style is a mix of those. Beauty Underground: What fashion or beauty trend needs to die? KIA: Instagram makeup. The whole heavy contour chiseled cheek. I’m over it. Beauty Underground: How do you take care of yourself? KIA: I’m vegan. It’s been about a year, so I’m still a baby vegan. I changed my diet first, and now slowly I’m incorporating it into my lifestyle. There are really some cool animal-free products and makeup out there! My goal is to be 100 percent free of any animal products by the time I’m 50.
KIA: I’m excited! Beauty Underground: How do you feel about plastic surgery? KIA: I’m all for it. I’m already scoping out doctors. Smoothing and lifting is the name of the game… You’ve got to spend your money on something! Beauty Underground: What do you do when you’re not working? KIA: I love to paint. That’s a secret, hidden passion. I love abstract art. I also love interior design. Sometimes I think if I wasn’t a hairstylist, I would either be a rock star or an interior designer. Beauty Underground: How do you feel about the state of public affairs in America? KIA: Oh, it’s sad… that we’re in a racist country, and we can’t just all see that we’re human, and we all bleed the same. As many differences as we have, I think we have waaay more in common. You can’t look at people’s skin color and think you know what they’re about. It would be so cool if we could love each other for being part of the human family. Because we are a human family. That should be the focal point. Not he’s black, he’s Muslim, he’s Jewish… No. We can all be family. Humans are here to serve each other, but we’re too busy hating each other for somebody’s skin color. Beauty Underground: So you think racism is at the forefront of American politics right now? KIA: Yes, and (President Donald J.) Trump is fueling it.
Sarah Sebet by Darren Trentacosta, Photography: Darren Trentacosta, Creative makeup direction: Marc Cornwall for Privé by Laurent D NYC, Post: Eve Harlowe
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