Beauty Underground | Volume Nine | Coup d'état | 2019

BEAUTY UNDERGROUND COUP D’ÉTAT | VOLUME NINE | 2019

MANIFESTO WE CREATE ILLICIT, SPONTANEOUS FASHION. WE MAKE FEARLESS BEAUTY IMAGES. WE REFUSE TO BE CONTROLLED BY ANYTHING BUT OUR DESIRE TO TAKE DRAMATIC, PROVOCATIVE AND BEAUTIFUL PICTURES. WE ARE PHOTOGRAPHERS, HAIRDRESSERS, MAKEUP ARTISTS, FASHION STYLISTS AND MODELS. WE ARE THE BEAUTY UNDERGOUND. Creator: Charlie Price Graphic Design: David Rossa Editor: Tiaja Pierre Cover Credits: Photographer: Laura Okita, hair: Charlie Price, haircolor: Jill Leitz, makeup: Tiaja Pierre, model: Brooklyn Hunt Page 2 Credits: Photographer: David Rossa, hair: Charlie Price, haircolor: Bri Bird; makeup: Tiaja Pierre, model: Evie (Barbizon Southwest)

coup d’é·tat /ˌko͞o dāˈtä/ noun

A coup d’état, also known as a putsch, a golpe de Estado, or simply as a coup, means the overthrow of an existing government; typically, this refers to an illegal, unconstitutional seizure of power by a dictator, the military, or a political faction.

BEAUTYUNDERGROUNDMAG.COM

pl aid Hair, Makeup & Photography by X-presion @xpresioncreativos

mrs gallahue goes to madrid Photography: David Rossa Hair: Graham Pollard & Charlie Price Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Model: Julie Gallahue at Goldie Mae Productions Production: Victoria Rossa & Ron Pierre Location: Madrid, Spain

prismatic Photography: John Rawson, Hair: Silas Tsang, Makeup: Lan Nguyen-Grealis, Fashion Styling: Jared Green

ce les tia Photography: John Rawson Hair: Charlie Price Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Donna Baldwin Agency

abstraction Photography: John Rawson, Hair: Chrystofer Benson, Makeup: Danielle Donahue

fec tion

Photography: Richard Monsieurs Creative Direction: Katie Nielsen, Shareena Hansen & Charlie Price Hair: Lindsey Mollenhauer, Ansley Bird, Jessa Trefethen, Danielle Starr, Keva Davis, Ron Lopez, Jill Leitz, Hannah Werling, James Mucker & Kia Sterling Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Donna Baldwin Agency

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adu Photography & Hair: Damien Carney Makeup: Walter Orbal Model: Natalya Piro

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Photography: David Rossa Hair & Fashion Styling: Charlie Price Additional Hairstylists: Betheny Brewer & Kallie McWhirter Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Caitlin Badinger & Alisa Gandin at Goldie Mae Productions

cali Photography: Grace Fries gracefries.com

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llure Photography: John Rawson Chrystofer Benson Collective Haircolor: Greta Coston Hair Cutting & Finishing: Chrystofer Benson Makeup: Danielle Donahue Wardrobe: Hannah Leigh

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lin Photography: John Rawson Hair: Detlef Gehlhaar & Headhunter Creative Team Makeup: Susan Voss Redfearn Fashion Styling & Support: Tim Hartley

in so lent Photography: Boswell Hair: Kennice Kallabat Makeup: Tresha Heath Model: Nicole Heledga

joseph

dimartino @j901

de w Photography: Richard Monsieurs Hair & Fashion Styling: Katie Nielsen Haircolor: Scruples Makeup: Charlie Price

re nai ssance Photography: Laura Okita Hair: Charlie Price Haircolor: Jill Leitz Makeup: Tiaja Pierre & Nicholas Treat Models: Brooklyn Hunt, Delaney Archer, Jamie Liu, Danshay Martinez & Aubrey Isom at Goldie Mae Productions

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viner @leighviner

no ir Photography: David Rossa Hair & Fashion Styling: Charlie Price Additional Hairstylist: Marishka Lynch Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Caitlin Badinger at Goldie Mae Productions & Jayme Cramer at Donna Baldwin Agency

Blouse: Badgley Mischka.

Vintage corset & skirt: Dolce & Gabbana; fishnet stockings: Agent Provocateur; pumps: stylist’s own; ring: Wizard’s Chest; opera gloves: Cornelia James.

Dress: Norma Kamali; vintage headband: Chanel; faux pearls: Wizard’s Chest.

Vintage bodyshaper: Result Wear by dModaine; leopard coat, hosiery & sunglasses: stylist’s own; shoes: model’s own.

Bodysuit & hat: stylist’s own.

Vintage camel coat, vintage leopard dress & belt: stylist’s own.

Vintage top: Jean Paul Gaultier; vintage body shaper: stylist’s own; hosiery: Agent Provocateur.

Vintage pearl brooch: Black Tulip Antiques; vintage beige fleece coat: Patricia Field; ascot: stylist’s own.

Vintage fur hat: Christian Dior; vintage fur coat: Neusteters; vintage leopard dress: Jones New York.

Vintage pin in hair: Black Tulip Antiques; vintage leopard cape: stylist’s own.

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Photography: Keith Bryce Hair: Lisa Von Kurvink Makeup: Daniela Bernotas Model: Daria Popova

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voss @emanueljayv

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charlies Photography: John Rawson Hair: Charlie Brackney Love Haircolor: Heather Walstrom Makeup: Charlie Price Models: Ruby Pierce at Donna Baldwin Agency, Madison Lynch & Racquel Parsons at Goldie Mae Productions & Annie Starduster

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Photography: Richard Monsieurs Hair: Nick Stenson Makeup: Deney Adam

royal

punk Photography: John Rawson Hair: Sally Rogerson using La Bella Haircolor: Misty Weeks Makeup: Jillyn Leone Neslen Fashion Styling: Rose Swift

bugs Photography: Efrain Laele @macrolorado

electric Photography: Kenny McCraken Hair: DJ Muldoon & Mark Woolley for Electric Hair Care UK Makeup: Sean Chapman Models: Marion Elvan, Grace Kepel & Poppy Faun

v oltage Photography: John Rawson Hair: Charlie Price Haircolor: Heather Walstrom Additional Hairstylists: Jessa Trefethen & Danielle Starr Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Donna Baldwin Agency

caballero Photography: Melanie Watson Hair: Charlie Price Grooming: Tiaja Pierre Fashion Stylist: Georgia Benjou Model: Salvador Cruz

Shirt: vintage; sweater: Gucci; coat: Zara Man; fringed cape: vintage; trousers: Paul Smith; pochette (tied as ascot): Hermès.

Shirt: Banana Republic; suit: Zara Man; turtleneck sweater: H&M.

Shirt: SRCO; jacket: Zara Man; pant: Paul Smith; tie: vintage; hat: Goorin Brothers; slides: Giuseppe Zanotti.

Shirt: Burberry; suit: Tallia; scarf: Saint Laurent; hat: Goorin Brothers.

Sweater: Banana Republic; trench coat: Burberry.

Vintage shirt, jacket, leggings & boots; scarf: Gucci.

Sweater: Banana Republic; trench coat: Burberry; glasses: model’s own.

Shirt: Lubiam; tuxedo: Vestimenta; vintage cummerbund & tie.

Shirt: Lubiam; tuxedo: Vestimenta; rain jacket: Goodfellow; vintage cummerbund & tie; shoes: Gucci.

happy Photography: Melanie Watson Hair & Fashion Stylist: Charlie Price Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Danshay Martinez & Delaney Archer at Goldie Mae Productions

Coat: Rebecca Minkoff; glasses: stylist’s own.

Jumpsuit & obi Rebecca Minkoff; shoes: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff.

All Rebecca Minkoff; rings: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff; vintage bag: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff.

All Rebecca Minkoff; shoes & bag: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff; shoes & glasses: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff; shoes: stylist’s own.

All Rebecca Minkoff; glasses: stylist’s own.

ej carr Interview by Charlie Price

y

ou have photographed everyone from celebrities like Gena Davis and Sarah Jessica Parker - to The Dalai Lama - to the dreaded Donald Trump. What do you think is the secret to capturing the essence of a person, uber-famous or not?

I think creating a space of safety is the first step. A place where the subjects can feel free to be themselves, wrinkles and all. Asking about THEM, what do they like, what happened on the way to the shoot?

It is a process of safe engagement. A place to open the door for wonder. “What do you love”? etc. Additionally, it is letting them see me, in the same way. Sharing about likes, my loves and myself.

On these pages we feature some of your stunning fashion work from the 1980s while you lived in New York City. Looking back, what strikes you about that work now and what resonates with you most about your career at that time?

I was such a newbie, wannabe. I did not have much confidence going into the shark tank and getting my ass kicked, like everyone else. It was a tough start for a guy from Pittsburgh with no compass as to how to navigate the big stage. I look back and wonder…what did I have that made it possible? I think it was a need to be accepted and to express a burning need to create art. I had studied art and wanted to be a painter, but photography came by accident actually.

You are formally trained, what quality or vision do you think is the most important one for any photographer, novice or seasoned expert to possess?

Vision...vision...vision! A desire to create something new and an attempt to make it your own. It is important to know that the first step one takes, puts you on a path. The mystery is that the end of the path is not in view.

You are a big music fan, what kind of music gets your creative juices flowing as you shoot?

Well, I like to have music available with artists that I have worked with. With that said, I have always mixed it up day to day…there are some artists that just set the stage for movement and creativity.

Which other photographers inspired you early in your career and who inspires you now?

The first inspiration I can attest to is Bert Stern. He was really one of the original photographic Mad Men. He put advertising and fashion on the map in my opinion. My work still reflects the influence of his impact on me as an upstart. Steichen, an original and early fashion photographer. Some others include: Avedon, Penn, Hiro, Helmut Newton and Testino. As well as Herb Ritts. I have always wanted to meet Herb, Bruce Davidson, Klaus Luka, Bob Richardson and Robert Farber.

Now, whom would I want to meet? There are so many “photographers” now, as it has become so much easier to get screen time. I find some inspiring people on Instagram, mostly. I will trip across someone on a social media site like Kavyar. I find inspiration now not only from fashion shooters, but everywhere. I am looking in different places for new energy. Surviving in a youth driven business can be challenging. There are many talented people out there. I find female photographers particularly inspiring as they bring a perspective that a man cannot possibly address.

How do you calibrate your thoughts when doing a portrait versus a fashion layout?

Good question! I have never really thought about it. I do go into a portrait session with the intention of capturing the images with a new angle, especially with a celebrity. So many celebrities have been photographed extensively, and I want my image to have its own place in that process. Sometimes there is fashion involved with the celebrity shoot and that adds another facet to the process. As for fashion layouts, I have a story, or the publication or stylist might have a vision. Pre-production to flesh out the idea is a big part of it for me.

As well as working to stay true to the story. It is a wonderful process.

Part of both of these disciplines for me is the intrigue and excitement of going into a new project with all of the pieces and player(s) while pulling it all together on the spot.

How would you compare working with models 30 - 40 years ago to working with models now, has anything changed?

Now, that is a question! Yes, much has changed. Before the Internet and social media this industry was a different animal. As for modeling, it was hard...really hard. The commitment level was much higher in my opinion. Models did not have a world network to promote themselves, e.g. Facebook, Instagram, etc.

Models were signed to basically 4 major agencies at one time. Ford, Wilhelmina, Zoli and Elite. At least in the United States, that changed pretty quickly in the ‘80s and early ‘90s. More agencies started to show up and they were players. Women and men models had to walk the street, carry a portfolio and do a “Go-See” every day if they wanted to work or test. It was grueling to get started. Of course there are Cinderella stories.

Now, with the Internet and social media, not to be judgmental, but anyone can choose to hang out the sign “model”. Models were held to high standards previously by the agency. My clients did not work with models outside of the agency world. All of my talent was signed and the agencies held them to a high standard. Most women could do their own makeup. The men came prepared in every way, including makeup.

Socially, the modeling world was more of a fraternity. I use that loosely, but the social scene in a market like New York was vibrant.

Every night.... every night, it was possible to go out for the evening and party with models from all of the agencies at the same venue, and sometimes with the principals. i.e.: Wilhelmina, Zoli and John Casablancas. I hope that answers it.

What do you think is the best way to loosen up a subject on set, to render them vulnerable enough to reveal themselves on camera?

Humor always works. I guess a little Merlot or Chardonnay would help as well.

What is your favorite lighting to use – studio, natural, or?

For most of my career, the studio was my playground. I experimented with lighting, lighting looks and various sources of light. I have worked mostly with electronic strobes, and I have mixed tungsten sources with strobes and daylight with strobes. At one time I worked with HMI’s a lot. I loved the sharp cool look of the light. I still prefer studio shooting for fashion and portrait, as I feel I have more control of the shape and quality of the light. Shooting with natural light outdoors has its own set of challenges. If one can master shooting in the great outdoors, with the natural one source of light, it only supports the ability to use the artificial light of the studio more effectively.

“I THINK CREATING A SPACE OF SAFETY IS THE FIRST STEP. A PLACE WHERE THE SUBJECTS CAN FEEL FREE TO BE THEMSELVES, WRINKLES AND ALL.”

“IN A PORTRAIT SESSION THE QUALITY THAT MEANS THE MOST TO ME IS A WILLINGNESS TO BE VULNERABLE/OPEN. IN A FASHION MODEL: PLAY, PLAY, AND PLAY. AS WELL AS BEING COMFORTABLE IN ONES OWN SKIN.” What are the pros and cons to shooting in studio versus location? Do you love them both or prefer one over the other?

I like them both actually for different reasons. I like the control I have with studio shooting, i.e. lighting. Location presents challenges that are always different and I enjoy solving those problems.

What quality is the most valuable in a portrait subject and what quality is most valuable in a model?

In a portrait session the quality that means the most to me is a willingness to be vulnerable/open. In a fashion model: play, play, and play. As well as being comfortable in ones own skin.

Is there any type of person you would refuse to shoot for any reason?

Hmmm, maybe? I can think of a few that exist at high levels of politics that might be candidates. IF I had total freedom to create the

portrait exactly how I would choose, I would probably shoot it.

You have photographed so many extraordinarily gorgeous women, have you ever fallen in love with one of them?

Yes, she is in the collection of images you have chosen.

You now live in Denver and you have lived in Ireland as well as New York, how did you find working in places that are so different?

New York is a high pressure, beautiful machine spewing creative energy. It is a place to find your chops and wow does it ever do that.

There is no place like it in my opinion. One either sinks or swims. I think it has brought out the best in me at times. And yes, sometimes it has challenged me. It is a big stage with the “A list” of creatives in all fields. Everyday was a carousel ride, never knowing where it would lead or whom I would meet.

Working in Ireland was an amendment to the reason I was there in the first place. Living there was to take time and have a breather from the intense life and career in New York City. The first year was really a sabbatical that slowly morphed into a gentle, meditative kind of working. The vibe was one of “working to live” not “living to work”.

I felt so seen and respected as an artist/photographer. A way to look at my craft and myself from a place of calm. I worked both in portraits and fashion and I could have stayed there forever. Things change in life and here I am in Denver.

I am still finding my way here in Denver. It is fun to be part of a growing, creative community. So many wonderful people and opportunities.

How would you describe your photography style?

Every artist/photographer, I believe strives to create a style. A signature true to themselves. I have struggled at times to describe that for myself. I see a thread that runs throughout my work, be it a portrait or fashion. Finding that word to describe it has been a challenge. Being authentic to one’s vision is part of it. With that said, I would say my work is bold, honest and direct. Some say I show them beauty where they have not seen it previously.

So, it is a bold, honest search for beauty.

If you were doing a photograph of a nude model and he or she needed you to be nude as well in order for them to be comfortable, would you or have you done it?

I think that depends on who that person would be. I might become modest in the situation.

“THE FIRST INSPIRATION I CAN ATTEST TO IS BERT STERN. HE WAS REALLY ONE OF THE ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHIC MAD MEN.” What specific things did you do or still do to train and develop your “artistic eye”?

I am always looking at publications, websites and life. Everything around me in my day to day, I see “photos” everywhere I go. I do not shoot them all, but some I do. I try to stay open to imagery in all mediums. I revisit the history of art, photography and music.... I cannot stop doing it. I look at all of the social media I can take at any one sitting, and then I go for a drive or a walk.

Describe the feeling when you know you have just created a beautiful image.

It is a feeling of completion and knowing that I have had the feeling so many times, it is a sense of being full. Full of gratitude and beauty. The most satisfying sense of gratitude.

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soon

Photography: David Rossa Hair: Traci Sakosits, North American Creative Director, Sassoon Haircolor: Richie Rivera, North American Color Director, Sassoon Makeup: Nicholas Treat Models: Goldie Mae Productions

hommage

Photography: Patrick Schuttler Hair: Pauline McCabe Makeup: Hendra Widjaja Fashion Stylist: Zoe Van Zanten

Photography: Gil Cope, Robert Lynden & Michael Pool Hair: Michael: Michael Polsinelli

architect

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Photographer: David Rossa; Hair: Charlie Price; Additional Hairstylist: Hannah Werling Makeup: Tiaja Pierre; Models: Janelle Tejan at Wilhelmina, Mia Felicia at Donna Baldwin Agency, Caitlin Badinger at Goldie Mae Productions & Taiya Werling; Fashion: Duane Topping Production: Jamie Topping

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Photography, Hair & Fashion Styling: Charlie Price Makeup: Tiaja Pierre Models: Reilly Blake, Danshay Martinez, Delaney Archer, Madison Lynch at Goldie Mae Productions, Mirabel Moring & Alicia Myers

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fu tu ro photography david rossa

Photography: David Rossa; Creative Direction: Katie Neilsen & Charlie Price; Hair: Amanda Straith, James Mucker, Keva Davis, Graham Pollard, Danielle Starr, Jessa Trefethen, Joe Denny, Kia Sterling, Stephanie Reynolds & Massiel Rivera; Makeup: Tiaja Pierre; Models: Aitana @aitanameg, SofĂ­a @sop_12, AndrĂŠs @andrescuadrrado & Antonio @tonymanu23, at Avenue Models Madrid; Casting Director: Elena Urucatu @fashionandmoremadrid; Production: Victoria Rossa & Ron Pierre; Location: IFEMA - Madrid, Spain.

ihs Beauty Underground runway show at the International Hairstlying Awards in Madrid Spain February 2019.

Photography: David Rossa; Creative Direction: Katie Neilsen & Charlie Price; Hair: Amanda Straith, James Mucker, Keva Davis, Graham Pollard, Danielle Starr, Jessa Trefethen, Joe Denny, Kia Sterling, Stephanie Reynolds & Massiel Rivera; Makeup: Tiaja Pierre; Models: Aitana @aitanameg, SofĂ­a @sop_12, AndrĂŠs @andrescuadrrado, Maria @keridweni, Angelina @angie.bache & Antonio @tonymanu23, at Avenue Models Madrid; Casting Director: Elena Urucatu @fashionandmoremadrid; Production: Julie Gallahue, Victoria Rossa & Ron Pierre; Location: IFEMA - Madrid, Spain.