LEVEL 3 PROPOSALS by Becky Murphy

becky becky murphy murphy level level 33 proposals proposals

Fig. 1. Own Image, 2016

Level 3 Proposals

Fig. 3. Own Image, 2015

Fig. 2. Own Image, 2015

Level 3 Proposals

contents

Preface

The Future of Brands & the In-store Experience

The active male consumer

List of Illustrations

References

Bibliography

Appendix appendix 1 // survey results appendix 2 // methodology

Fig. 4. Fragment by Matthias Heiderich, 2016

26 27

strengths

preface Studying on FCP for 2 years has afforded me the opportunity to develop my creative skills through a variety of diverse projects, allowing me to explore different sectors within the fashion industry. Reflecting on all of the feedback I have received to date, has allowed me to pinpoint my areas of strength and highlight where my weaknesses lie on the FCP triangle. Projects such as Identity and Self Promotion allowed me to display my creative process through sketchbook documentation, and also enabled me to explore new techniques such as risograph, life drawing and laser cutting. I found my feedback reflected my enjoyment of these projects and I felt confident in taking a leadership role when it came to executing our ideas. My main areas of strength lie within the creative concept and execution stages: I have loved taking on the role of editor in both recent film

projects and hope to explore this area of execution further in my third year projects. The areas I have found most challenging and continue to work on, tend to fall into the context stage of the FCP process. I find carrying out primary research and sourcing information to support my ideas extremely difficult and, in-turn, have received the majority of my negative feedback in these areas. Although I have enjoyed brainstorming ideas within a group, I find I am rarely able to hone in on one idea and find a gap in the market. To extend my knowledge in these areas I have tried to make a conscious effort within the context stage of this research proposal, focusing in particular on cartograms and conducting creative research methods to gather relevant insight.

weaknesses

- Ability to produce strong visuals

- Time managment and organisation

- Extremely proficient in the Adobe suite including Premiere Pro & Illustrator

- Ability to conduct thorough research

- Ability to brainstorm lots of ideas

- Find it difficult to use journal, need to work on developing on what I have learned

- Struggle to find insights in research

- Can take leadership role within groupwork when working at creative concept & execution stages

- Ability to create strong executions could allow me to have an interesting final outcome in third year projects

- Lack of time managment and organisiational skills could hinder my ability to complete work to the best of my ability in third year

- Ability to use film editing software could help group work when working on the live brief

- Not utilising journal and developing on what I have learnt could hinder my creative thought process and limit my ideas

- Leadership skills could help team members work well together in third year. Utilising everyones individual skill set

- Lack of understanding how to research could limit third year projects

Fig. 5. SWOT Analysis. 2016 5

the future of brands & the in-store experience

introduction

Fig. 6. 3D Design - GoldRush, 2015

AS AS WE WE CONTINUE CONTINUE TO TO SPEED SPEED UP UP TIME TIME AND AND IMMERSE IMMERSE OURSELVES OURSELVES IN IN A A HYPERREALITY, HYPERREALITY, TECHNOLOGY TECHNOLOGY DRIVEN DRIVEN WORLD, WORLD, WHAT WHAT IS IS THE THE FUTURE FUTURE FOR FOR BRANDS BRANDS AND AND THE THE IN-STORE IN-STORE RETAIL RETAIL EXPERIENCE? EXPERIENCE?

The concept of time is forever evolving. Julian Barbour states, “People are sure time is there, but they can’t get hold of it. My feeling is that they can’t get hold of it because it isn’t there at all”. (Frank, 2012). Time is a concept we, as humans, have invented so why have we become obsessed with speeding up our day-to-day activities in order to cram as much as we can into our day.

Darrel Worthy, an Assistant Professor of Psychology at Texas A&M University states that, “A lot of things that are really valuable take time but immediate gratification is the default response” (Muther,2013). My first proposal aims to analyse consumer behaviour and our constant desire to accomplish daily activities at an every increasing rate. I aim to question the reasons behind our growing obsession with living in a hyperreality and the constant competition to achieve results faster than ever before. I plan to explore how the consumer habits of a generation, stimulated by impatience, will affect the future of brands and their retail spaces.

the future of brands & the in-store experience

CARTOGRAM To help formulate my research I have created an initial cartogram identifying the trend innovators, drivers, consequences and futures. Over summer I will continue to immerse myself in this project, furthering my research and expanding on each aspect within this cartogram. My cartogram identified a vast array of drivers for this trend. A key innovator is engineer, Charles Bombardier who, in January this year, revealed a new aircraft design concept that could see flight times from London to New York of just 11 minutes (Billington, 2016). Although the aircraft is still in the initial design stage with no set date for release, the future of travel is undoubtedly changing and moulding to our impatience. We are also seeing drivers within the fashion industry as brands change their production rates and enter into the world of fast fashion. Pioneer of this evolving trend is international retailer Zara, seeing sales of $19.7 billion in 2015 showing an 8% increase over the past year. To achieve these sales, quality merchandise is delivered in as little as three weeks from its own factories, with as many as three or four products being reviewed daily (Loeb, 2015). The demand for fast fashion is causing a dramatic change in our consumer habits. In previous

years, garments had a higher quality control and production rate resulting in increased price tags and, in-turn, a longer lifetime for the product. Fast fashion works in contrast to this; we now see an increasingly fast turnover period with a much shorter lifetime of around one season. A major environmental consequence of this trend is the amount of clothes being put into UK landfill sites each year, which is estimated at around ‘£100 million worth (based on 2015 prices) or around 350,000 tones of used clothing’ (Wrap, 2016). Our desire for rapid results has also transcended into the health and fitness market with emerging trend coined as ‘Fitstagram’. A main driver is Personal Trainer, Joe Wicks, creator of fitness brand ‘The Body Coach’ who, in January of this year, released a cook book, ‘Lean in 15’. Featuring recipes that take only 15 minutes to prepare and cook, combined with his 20-minute HIIT (high intensity interval training) sessions, Joe shows how you can transform your body within 12 weeks. The platform for his success is the social media site Instagram. With 1.1 million followers, the brand has over 500 signups per day and turns over more than £1 million per month.

CARTOGRAM

Fig. 7. Cartogram, 2015

Why are we so concerned with completing tasks twice as fast? As a culture we are renowned for our ability to complain, constantly expressing the inconvenience of living a hectic lifestyle. A recent study by video analytics firm, IneoQuest Technologies, found that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;more than 40% of consumers will only wait 10 seconds or less before clicking out of a buffering video and, of these, nearly 40% will never attempt to re-watch the videoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Tribbey, 2016). Societal trends are reacting and adapting to our demand for speed, and daily tasks are cut short; so what is it that we are making time for? Social media usage is on the rise. It was recently revealed we spend 50 minutes a day on Facebook alone (Stewart, 2016).

the future of brands & the in-store experience

living in a hyperreality... As statistics highlighted increasing hours spent on social media, I began to question the reasons behind this and how this is affecting our purchasing habits. Patrick Lonergan’s lecture on ‘The Phantasmagoria of Contemporary Culture’ sparked my interest in this subject area and the hyper realistic world in which we have found ourselves immersed; Lonergan states that, ‘images that were once private are being used to engage, absorb, forge intimacy with strangers, and cultivate mass appeal’ (Lonergan, 2016). I found this highlighted the link between our social media habits and consumer trends, as the record amount of time we are now spending on social media is driven by our fascination of following celebrities and the desire to imitate their daily routines.

Fig. 8. Cartogram, 2015

Fig. 9. Cartogram, 2015

For the first time, social media has given us a first-hand insight into this information, and brands have begun to take advantage of this through product placement advertising. It was reported last year that Instagram influencers with over 100,000+ followers, representing over 10,000 UK accounts, could earn a six-figure salary of £156,000 a year (London, 2015). It is now easier than ever for brands to market to the subconscious of their consumers; by tagging brand names and product codes, consumers now have the ability to click through to purchase and make online transactions with same-day delivery options becoming available. We are now living in a generation controlled by our devices and with desires being driven by the lavish lifestyles of celebrities. The constant demand for faster loading speeds and a shorter route to purchase is what has sparked my thoughts into how this is affecting the traditional shopping experience.

hyperreality & consumer habits

ARE OUR CONSUMER HABITS CHANGING? WHERE IS THIS HAPPENING NOW? With brands such as Amazon now offering a same-day delivery service at a cost of £9.99 and with no extra charge for prime members, I aim to question whether the traditional shopping experience will become extinct if brands don’t adapt to these societal changes and create new and exciting in-store experiences for existing and new consumers.

Fig. 10. Cartogram, 2015

We are already seeing an introduction in the emergence of technology driven instore designs. This trend began with the pioneer of digital innovation, Burberry. In particular, the opening of the Regent Street flagship store in 2012. The store offers an interactive and immersive experience for the consumer; ‘the Burberry assistants walk around with iPads, taking orders and enquiries on the spot, eliminating the need for lugging products to a till and waiting in line’ (Collins, 2013). We are now seeing this trend transcend across luxury brands with Harvey Nichols debuting their new ‘department-less’ flagship store in Birmingham, and with the construction underway for a new London flagship store set to open in 2017.

Fig. 11. Cartogram, 2015

The design boasts an innovative concept that has ‘the feel and style of a boutique and features a unique VIP changing room that debuts a 360-degree ‘magic mirror’, capturing video that can be emailed instantaneously for a second opinion’ (Israel, 2015). This advanced technology allows consumers to feel connected to the brand and, in-turn, is engaging, and allows them to enjoy their physical shopping experience.

the future of brands & the in-store experience

Fig. 12. Consumer Moodboard, 2016

consumer & summary

// 21 fashion design student blogger Zara, Topshop, H&M, ASOS

consumer When thinking about the consumer for this trend I looked to Rogerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Diffusion of Innovationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (1971). I believe early adopters will be consumers from upper class societal brackets; they have greater disposable income and, are therefore, more likely to be exposed to the luxury fashion market which is the retail space in which we can see this trend emerging. I plan to focus my areas of research and also target consumers falling within the late majority and possibly laggards. I predict this will focus predominantly on consumers falling into the category of Generation Y, as this is a generation that has never experienced having to wait for anything. I will be focusing on those who tend to shop more at a mass-market level as opposed to the early adopters who immerse themselves in the luxury market.

what ideas has this given me for third year... To further my proposal, I intend to conduct additional research over the summer break. My main area of investigation will be into trend futures, as this is an area that is lacking in my cartogram. I need to further evaluate the statistics behind the amount of in-store purchases as opposed to online, and how this has changed over the last 5 years since the rise of social media. I intend to conduct numerous types of primary research, initially focussing on large sample sizes to gain a vast insight from a variety of participants. I plan to conduct focus groups and interviews to discover whether the idea of more technology driven concept

store shopping experiences is something that would be of interest to the mass-market consumer. I also intend to speak to industry professionals allowing me to gain insights from a brand point of view to further my research. I will undertake further investigation into how the impact of fast online purchasing can transcend into mass-market retail. I will look at a variety of sources for inspiration including the curation of museums and gallery spaces, with the aim of potentially creating innovative ideas that will grow sales and reach new consumers.

the active male consumer

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;If masculinity is a structure of practice that provides resources for constructing identity, not all men have equal access to the same resources, nor do all men seek these resources.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Whitehead and Barrett, 2001).

Fig. 13. Navad Kander - Bodies, 2016

introduction

AN INVESTIGATION INTO THE TWO SIDES OF THE ACTIVE MALE CONSUMER: THE FASHION FORWARD, APPEREANCE DRIVEN, AND THE PERFORMANCE BASED, TECHNOLOGY EXPERT.

My second proposal aims to explore the two sides to the active male consumer: the fashion forward, appearance driven, and the performance based, technology expert. To help formulate my research I have created an initial cartogram identifying the trend innovators, drivers, consequences and futures. Over summer I will continue to immerse myself in this project, furthering my research and expanding on each aspect within this cartogram.

the active male consumer

CARTOGRAM

Fig. 14. Cartogram, 2016

When putting together my cartogram, I wanted to ensure I explored both the relationship between fashion and sportswear, and the impact this is having on emerging technologies...

A key innovator found within the markets of emerging technologies and sportswear is American brand, Fitbit and their wearable data trackers. The Fitbit Flex was released in May 2013 and was the first wearable tracking device to hit the activewear market. Subsequently, we have seen a trend appear across the sportswear market as many brands delve into the advanced technology sector, creating their own versions of the wearable device such as the Nike + FuelBand and the Adidas Mi Coach.

cartogram & fitness trends

Since this innovation, we have seen the direction of travel in the sportswear markets embracing these emerging technologies, with innovations such as trackers embedded into fabrics and other wearable objects, shown in a recent report on WGSN. This report states that Under Armour has reportedly invested â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;$1 billion in digital health and is hoping to tick all four boxes with the new UA Healthbox, which comprises a wristband, chest strap, smart scale and appâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Housley, 2016).

fitness and trends, are males educated? Fashion and fitness in menswear has begun to rapidly emerge as a consequence of trend drivers and the focus on the emergence of wearable technology. I aim to question the knowledge of the active male consumer surrounding fashion fitness trends and the sources from which they gather their information.

Fig. 17. IVY PARK x Topshop, 2016

Nike CEO, Mark Parker, stated, “Leggings are the new denim” (Studeman, 2016). 2014 saw the first buzz around fitness in the fashion world, with womenswear trend ‘Athleisure’ engulfing our high streets. 2 years since this pivotal change in fashion, and the trend has never dulled. Dominated initially by luxury-level brands, massmarket retailers are now entering into the trend, demonstrated through the recent collaboration of Beyoncé and Topshop in the ‘IVY PARK’ collection. I intend to explore and question whether the Athleisure trend has yet begun its transition into men’s active-wear at

mass-market level, and investigate the knowledge of the male consumer surrounding the relationship between fitness and fashion. When conducting secondary research I discovered a new collaboration with NikeLab and Balmain creative director, Olivier Rousteing that was inspired by Rousteing’s passion for football;sporting legend, Cristiano Ronaldo, was also enlisted as an advisory throughout the project. The collection is described by NikeLab as, ‘“a reinvention of the off-pitch look”, featuring options for men and women informed by Rousteing’s luxurious design codes’ (Hall, 2016). In my desire to stay up-to-date with the latest fashion news, I stumbled upon this collaboration in an exclusive article on Dazed; this sparked my thoughts into how the active male consumer would be exposed to this if they weren’t necessarily invested in fashion and the relevant publications.

Fig. 15 & 16. NikeLab, 2016

the active male consumer

primary research In an attempt to further my knowledge and gain insight into the active male consumer, I conducted a survey consisting of 70 respondents. I asked, ‘When purchasing active-wear how important to you is the aesthetic appearance?’ The average rating was 7.36/10 compared to 6.82/10 when asked ‘When purchasing activewear, how important to you is the performance enhancing qualities of the item?’ In addition to this, 37% of respondents answered ‘yes’ to feeling societal pressure with regards to looking a certain way within active-wear trends.

My findings have allowed me to begin to understand that, on average, active males have a similar amount of interest in both the fashion side of fitness and the advanced technology surrounding the active-wear market; however, when asked if they had heard of the ‘Adidas ACE 16+ PURECONTROL’, 84% answered ‘no’. This piece of information supports my theory that, although active men would like to say they are interested in emerging technologies, they struggle to find the platforms to aid their learning of this knowledge.

primary research

Fig. 18. Adidas Originals, 2016

The active male consumer

Fig. 19. Consumer Moodboard, 2016

consumer & summary

// 32 accounts manager sport // boxing & gym

consumer

nike, adidas, ASOS, under armour

When targeting the consumer for this trend, I looked to Roger’s ‘Diffusion of Innovation’ (1971). I aim to target the innovators and early adopters; this consumer is likely to be a sportsman with a performance driven mind-set and keen interest in emerging technologies within sportswear. However, I am aware that there may be an opportunity to educate active males falling in the mass-market sector on both advanced technologies and evolving fashion, fitness trends.

what ideas has this given me for third year... My investigation will focus closely on the consumer; gaining an insight into their knowledge, focusing on both sides of the active-wear market. When developing my cartogram, I found I had little research surrounding trend innovators and trend futures, both of which are areas I intend to explore further in an attempt to broaden my knowledge of new and emerging technologies. To extend my idea and deepen my knowledge, I intend to utilise a variety of primary research methods during the summer break. I will conduct a series of interviews and focus groups ensuring a variation of consumers and their active ability. I plan to speak to the professional Rugby League team players of ‘Widnes Vikings’ along with their coaches and assistants to gain a better understanding of the ‘early adoptive’ consumer. I hope to make communication with Olympic Athlete, Bradley

Wiggins, to gain insight into the life of a high profile sportsman, and his knowledge within the performance side of sportswear. I can then cross-examine this with findings from the massmarket active-wear consumer in the hope of locating the areas in which they would benefit from education. Making connections with high profile sportsmen in my initial research stage could then also benefit me when working on the execution section of the brief, as it is expected that they may provide me with interesting content and promotion opportunities. I plan to conduct primary and secondary research to explore the existing world of publications, and will then narrow down my search and hone in particularly on sports, lifestyle and fitness. Broadening my own knowledge will allow me to secure a gap in the market and work on the concept and USP behind a potential publication opportunity. 21

list of illustrations

Fig 1. Own Image, 2015. London Architecture. [Photograph].

Fig 2. Own Image, 2015. London Architecture. [Photograph]. Fig 3. Own Image, 2015. London Architecture. [Photograph]. Fig 4. Matthias, H. (no date) Fragment. Available at: http://www.matthias-heiderich.de/fragment/yuh2rob1i130puf0ny0rzeriyuqsk5 (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 5. Own Image, 2016. SWOT Analysis. [Illustration]. Fig. 6. 3D design, 2015. Goldrush. Available at: http://abduzeedo.com/3d-design-goldrush (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photography]. Fig. 7. Own Image, 2016. Cartogram. [Photograph]. Fig. 8. TheMetaP (no date). Art. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/71213237835941394/ (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 9. Banksy (no date). Available at: http://banksy.co.uk/out.asp (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Spray painting]. Fig. 10. Brandpipe, 2015 How augmented reality is shaping the retail industy. Available at: http://www.brandpipe.co.uk/howaugmented-reality-is-shaping-the-retail-industry/ (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 11. Magazine, W., 2015. Harvey Nichols debuts its new department-less store concept in Birmingham Available at: http:// www.wallpaper.com/fashion/harvey-nichols-debuts-its-new-department-less-store-concept-in-birmingham#8507 (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 12. Own Image, 2015. Consumer Moodboard. All images Available at: https://www.instagram.com/jadeemilymitch/ (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photographs]. Fig. 13. Kander, N. (no date) Bodies. Available at: http://www.nadavkander.com/# (Accessed: 1 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 14. Own Image, 2016. Cartogram. [Photograph]. Fig. 15. Leach, A. (2016) Nike drops baroque Olivier Rousteing Lookbook. Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/05/24/ nike-and-olivier-rousteing-lookbook-images/ (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 16. Leach, A. (2016) Nike drops baroque Olivier Rousteing. Lookbook Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/05/24/ nike-and-olivier-rousteing-lookbook-images/ (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 17. magazine, W. (2016) BeyoncĂŠ launches Ivy Park, her new Activewear line. Available at: http://www.wmagazine.com/ fashion/2016/03/beyonce-ivy-park-images/photos/slide/1 (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig. 18. Adidas (2016) Adidas originals & white mountaineering unveil their 2016 fall/winter collaboration at Pitti Uomo. Available at: http://hypebeast.com/2016/1/adidas-originals-white-mountaineering-2016-fall-winter (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Fig 19. Own Image, 2016. Consumer Moodboard. From Left to Right: Mosquera, S., 2016. Underground. Available at: https:// www.instagram.com/mosquerasam/ {Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Leibovitz, A., (No Date) Michael Johnson. Available at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11959462@N04/2597448243 (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Mosquera, S., 2016. Portrait. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/mosquerasam/ {Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Mosquera, S., 2016. Thai. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/mosquerasam/ {Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Greg, 2015. Daily man up Available at: http://suburbanmen.com/daily-man-up-20150131/33441 (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Mosquera, S., 2016. Aesop. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/mosquerasam/ {Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Mosquera, S., 2016. Trainers. Available at: https://www.instagram.com/mosquerasam/ {Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. /|\ (no date) Available at: https://500px.com/photo/5527058/-by-der-zacki (Accessed: 2 June 2016). [Photograph]. Mau, T. (2014) 25 adrenaline-pumping examples of sports photography - Corel discovery center Available at: http://learn.corel.com/blog/adrenalinepumping-examples-sports-photography/ (Accessed: 2 June 2016) [Photograph]. Fig 20. Own Image, 2015. London Architecture. [Photograph].

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appendix 1

appendix 2 methodology // what i have done & what i plan to do over summer...

Questionnaire

71 (Ages 15- 50+)

To gain insight into the acitve male consumer. To investigate the link between performance and fitness. To dicover the knowledge of the consumer surrounding emerging technologies.

Interview

Widnes Vikings Rugby League team & Coaches

To gain further insight into the active male consumer with sporting ability at proffesional level. To discover how they gain info on emerging technologies within sportswear.

Interview

Speaking to industry profesionals during work experience

Large sample size allowed me to achieve a large statistic of results. Gained results from participants within a large variety of age groups and occupation meaning I achieved results from a vast array of people with different consumer habits.

Some of the questions were slightly too broad meaning I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t gain as much insight as I could have done if I had included more specific questions. One of the questions didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allow for multiple answers, limiting my results

Gain an insight Interviewing in from a large sample a group could of males. cause research to be biased as Professional participants may be opinions could be inclined to agree benefical to my with one another. research. May be difficult to Could open up new find time as they points of research have very busy that I had not yet schedules. discovered

To gain industry insight into the future of in-store retail experiences.

Allow me to gain professional guidance with my research.

To discover whether they have any knowledge on the future of concept stores and mass market branding.

Could open new doors and connections within the industry for further research into third year.

May have limited knowledge on the subject as it is an emerging trend and hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t filtered into mass market as of yet.

The large sample size made this method of research more effective as I gained a large I found that 54% of amount of insight participants stated from a vast array of they took interest consumers. in advanced technologies Good initial within sports wear questionnaire however only however I would 14% had heard of need to send out the Adidas ACE more and narrow down questions CONTROL which has been available to gain further for purchase since insights. January 2016. I have achieved interesing insight into the active male consumer.

Fig. 20. Own Image, 2016