trend ANALYSIS AW15/16 BECKY MURPHY NO579510
contents stnetnoc
feel the fur womenswear
- Statement Shearling - Accessorising Addicts - The Campaigners
The 3rd Gender menswear/womenswear - History and Origins - The Working Woman - MIlitary Modernists - Goth Now - The Androgynous - Boy Meets Girl - Shot On the Street - In the Media - A New Gucci
feel the
furruf eht leef Womenswear AW 15/16
Statement shearling
Statement shearling is a trend made for the out-going, virbant city-chic woman. Featuring bold over the top colours and fur clad coats skimming the waist or even ankle. Her motivation is to stand out in a crowd and make heads turn, she wants to be seen as a confident, trend starting dresser. Brands associated with this trend for AW15 are Versace, Philip Plein, Emilio Pucci and ChloĂŠ. The key colours are rusty orange and a deep teal.
accessorising addicts
Accessorising Addicts embody the attitude of the more subtle fur wearer, this trend evokes a pastel colour palette putting a fun twist on an everyday outfit. Lapis Lazulli and Icy whites are some of the most seen colours this season. As an accessorising trend, this doesn’t stop at bags with shoes and collars recieving an equal dose of fur loving. The motivations and attitde of the wearer will see more of a laid back vibe, they will trend aware but also like to fit in to the norm of everyday life. These pieces could be worn both to work or a simple clutch to jazz up an evening outfit. Brands seen supporting this key trend are Gucci, Altuzarra and Shrimps.
the campaigners
The campaigners, are a set of women, or men who set asside time in their life to focus on the welfare of others, including animals. They will have passion within them to help promote their key beliefs. Still unbelievably fashion savvy, they will update their autumn/winter wardrobe with the must have fashion but will take a friendly approach with faux fur. Stella McCartney, House of Holland and Shrimps are a few brands that have seen themselves supporting the fight for animal rights with their elegant fur pieces. Personalities seen encompassing the trend is Poppy Delevigne and Khloe Kardashian when last year she stepped out in a floor length, faux fur coat, with ‘F*ck Your Fur’ spray painted on the back, as an extra add on.
the 3rd
gender redneg dr3 eht Womenswear/Menswear
AW 15/16
history &
origins
The rise in the feminist movement which made an impact on society in the 60’s, has seen a surge within recent years, not only in the world population but also within fashion. We saw female models walking for Chanel, tske Paris fashion week in 2014, armed wirh placards and feminist slogans. The He for She campaign and the United women foundation saw a boost in popularity as the gender conversation became more popular within recent years as many members of both genders strives towards a world of equality.
the Working Woman
This trend has seen a surge in recent years as the ‘He for She’ campaign has gained an inordinate amount of supporters within both genders. Promoting gender equality, fashion has caught the bug, as we see the change in tailoring take a more male approach. The motivations of the wearer will see women in the work place who are striving to gain respect from their male superiors. They will want to be respected for their brains and not beauty. This trend allows gender stereotypes to be removed within the workplace. Brands seen promoting this trend are Saint Laurent by Heidi Slimane, Stella McCartney and Ralph Lauren.
Military modernists
MIlitary is the go to trend for this season, seen taking over the runway for both women and menswear. Khaki colours feature alongside war time inspired Reefer jackets and Trench coats, this is a perfect trend for the fashion conscious who require more a more organised edge to their style. The divide between gender roles blur further with this trend, offering a smart approach to a more casual outfit. Altuzarra perfected this look in their recent catwalk with military inspired badges adding an extra touch to over sized bomber jackets and the knee length trench.
goth now
Monochrome colour palettes have been seen taking over brands for some time now, de-feminising the stereotypical female fashion. This season has seen a growth in the trend with black taking over catwalks, a gothic vibe with victorian lace and dark lipstick was seen walking the runways of brands such as Alexander Wang, Maison Margiela and Iris Van Herpen. The motivations and attitude of the wearer will evoke attitude and rebellion, it will allow women to explore new avenues of the gender conversation and argue against the norm of feminism.
the androgynous
The gender roles have been blurred and explored in excess, in recent years, however, it has seen a flourish within this seasons trends as androgynous casting and design choices were seen with the most unexpected of brands such as Gucci and Prada. The launch of Yeezy x Adidas in his season 1 collection, saw models, of both genders, dressed in skin coloured body tights and over sized distressed jumpers, adding a twist to usual feminine attire. This trend allows traditional gender labels to be removed within fashion and gives wearers the confidence to break their own boundaries and explore a new side to their unique personality.
Boy meets girl
Androgynous dressing has always been left to the girls, this season we saw a shift in the system as male models strutted down the catwalk flurished with the boldest of colour palettes. Featured, were bliinding magentas and alarming hues of amber and navy. We saw floral prints and pussy-bow blouses taking centre stage at the Gucci menswear collection and the addition of faux fur at JW Anderson. The wearers of this trend are confident males, not afraid to explore a new side to themselves and to fashion. They aren’t afraid to over step boundaries and want to be known for their stand out personalities and the ability to wow a crowd.
Shot on the street
In the Media
A new
“The mood and feel of the [AW15 Gucci menswear] collection was gentler, more fluid, more ethereal, and it also tappen into a zeitgeist in which our culture is debating notions of gender.” Stephan Doig Gucci: One of fashions most famous and high-class brands; renowned for its signature, jet set glamour and the slick, glossy world it once owned.
The AW15 menswear collection was a far cry from any of the above, with the catwalk being filled with gangly, greasy male models donning pussy-bow blouses and geek chic eyewear. This new era came about after the frequent departure of Frida Giannini, it was announced moments before, that the collection she had been working on, had been entirely replaced and re-vamped in a matter of days by an in-house team, led by the newly appointed creative director, Alessandro Michele. Michele’s input and creative direction dragged the brand into a modern era of androgynous fashion, with one of the most interesting casting and design choices to hit Menswear for AW15. The catwalk met a mix of male and female models donning the most interesting of gender –blurring pieces. The rest of the collection encompassed a romantic, bohemian spirit crossed with androgynous nerds. Classic house trademarks, such as horse-bit loafers, jostled for attention alongside beanie hats, geeky glasses and berets. (Matchesfashion.com)
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