trend Report aw16/17 Becky Murphy
contents vm #fromwhereistand Artful Craft Infinite Elements
print and graphics Lets Talk Sass Retro Glitch Gradated Forms
sportswear Holographic Escapism Insulate Oxidised Existance
Daniel Lozano ValdĂŠs - Unsplash - 2016
Bikini Berlin - Own image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Visual Merchandising & In-Store
#fromwhereistand
Feminine Touch
The Perfect Harmony
Serene Aesthetic
Capture The Bliss
Perfectionists Dream
Ideal Setting
ihavethisthingwithpink
Perfect Picture
- #fromwhereistand -
Snarkitecture x Milk Media - 2015
- AW 2016/2017 -
Cos X Snarkitecture - 2016
Alexanderplatz, Berlin - Own Image - 2016
- VM -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- #fromwhereistand An in-store design aesthetic creating a striking photo opportunity that not only features the store interior, but also the product. Garments are merchandised in different ways, making for an eye-catching photo-ready visual from all angles. Brands begin to use the square-ready design to align perfectly with Instagram's format, generating a desire to capture images in-store and on the street, providing a shareable call-to-action for consumer. This trend taps into hashtag trends such as #ihavethisthingwithfloors and #fromwhereistand which has almost 2 million posts to date. Exhibited at Milan Design week in a collaboration with Cos and Brooklyn based design studio, Snarkitecture. Architect Kengo Kuma and his creation of the pigment art studio in Tokyo. Kith utilised products as a merchandising technique with the installation of 700 white Nike Jordan 11's suspended from the ceiling.
- VM -
Bikini Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Visual Merchandising & In-Store
Artful Craft
11
Reworked Nest
Revived Details
Weathered Bamboo
Humble Hue
Clustered Core
Handcrafted
Wilting Wood
Raw Labour
- Artful Craft -
Edward Linacre - The Nest - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Bikini Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Bikini Berlin- Own Image - 2016
- VM -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Artful Craft Artful Craft portrays a DIY aesthetic through handcrafted, artful techniques utilising the eclectic up cycling of everyday objects to engage the consumer. This is shown through objects being stacked or clustered together creating art installations through clever curation. Humble materials are used such as untouched wood, woven fabric and bamboo, creating the homespun, handcrafted raw aesthetic feel. Exhibited in Berlin Trade shows and Bikini Berlin. Work by product designer Edward Linacre, Tony Yang and store interiors of Harvey Nichols. Taking influence from the Macro trend, Artisan, Artful Craft focuses on the up-cycling of unexpected everyday objects and transforming the mundane into the extraordinary.
- VM -
Ethical trade show - Own Image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Visual Merchandising & In-Store
Infinite Elements
Magnetic Core
Running Azure
Continuous Affections
Dusty Bronze
Connected Elements
Looped Lux
Industrial Hue
Opacity
-Infinite Elements-
Kloke - Store Interior - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Premium Trade Show, Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Bikini Berlin - Own Image - 2016
- VM -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Infinite Elements Infinite Elements, incorporates exposed industrialised railings into interesting structures to make visually aesthetic clothing stands. Continuous rail threads also link individual rooms and large spaces. Creating a narrative through stores by framing merchandise, highlighting cash desks and drawing attention to walk ways. Exhibited in Opening Ceremony’s London Pop Up stores, Nohere Boutique and Berlin Trade Shows. Infinite elements is communicated through copper rails, mesh grid work and floorto-ceiling wooden shelving units, integrated around the store to create a unique interior and fluid design.
- VM -
Bikini Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Print & Graphics
Lets Talk Sass
Ice Queen
Don't Be Jel
Peppermint Tea For Three
Beach Babe
It's Barbie Bitch
Its All About Me
Blue Lagoon
Wet and Wild
- lets Talk Sass -
Lazy Oaf - S16 Lookbook - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Sophia Webster AW16/17 - 2016
Clio Peppiatt AW16/17 - 2016
- Print and Graphics -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Lets Talk Sass Lets Talk Sass influenced by Soft Pop the Spring Summer 2016 macro trend. Moving from the innocent childlike prints to an attitude driven illustrative style, utilising language with a pop of sass and a daring tongue-in-cheek flare. Driven by changing attitudes from key figures within popular culture such as Miley Cyrus and Lady Gaga, and their devoted following from the youth of today. Exhibited in Autumn Winter 2016/17 collections from Alexander Wang, Sophia Webster, Lazy Oaf, Clio Peppiatt and Walter Van Beirendonck. Lets Talk Sass is communicated through appliqued slogans, repeat prints and graphic embellishments.
- Print and Graphics -
Jim Lambie - 2013
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Print & Graphics
Retro Glitch
Bad Trip
Day Glow
The Grass is Greener
The Bee's Knees
Floating On Top
Groovy Girl
Hot To Trot
Red Stockings
- retro Glitch -
Syver Lauritzsen - Monolitt - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Burberry AW16/17 - 2016
Marco De Vincenzo AW16/17 - MFW - 2016
Burberry AW16/17 - 2016
- Print and Graphics -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Retro Glitch Retro Glitch is derived from the use of nostalgic patterns and primary colour combinations teamed with repeated shapes and graphic patterns, creating a digital style jigsaw print. Influences originating from the 1960’s psychedelic trip traveling through to the 1980’s digital age, represented through the use of primary and secondary hues working alongside contrasting black and white prints and multitonal stripes. Exhibited in Autumn Winter 2016/17 collections from Paul Smith and Marco De Vincenzo. Retro Glitch takes influence from Jim Lambie’s artwork infused with elongated geometric stripes and bright conflicting colours.
- Print and Graphics -
Matthias Heiderich - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Print & Graphics
Gradated Forms
Coarse Grit
Gravel
Foiled Finish
Broken Beige
Weathered Moss
Embossed
Hardened Rust
Brutish Crag
- Gradated Forms -
Matthias Heiderich - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Bella Pella - WGSN - 2016
Spaceroom SS17 - WGSN - 2016
Matthias Heiderich - 2016
Roberto Sironi - 2016
- Print and Graphics -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Gradated Forms Gradated Forms takes influence from 1950’s architectural movement, Brutalism. Exposed concrete like textures and tones are used as a coating on paper and wood to create a raw and industrialised aesthetic. Key materials include recycled cardboard, aluminum foil and matte papers, creating a rough and tactile appearance on both branding and packaging. Exhibited in 2016 work by product designer and sculptors Philippe Malouin and John M Armleder. Gradated Forms incorporates surface prints that have been scratched and embossed to evoke a distressed appearance and tactile nature, referencing exposed concrete and weathered surfaces.
- Print and Graphics -
Premium Trade Show, Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Sportswear
Holographic Escapism
Burst Of Life
Refracted Motion
Cute But Not Week
Enflame The Fury
Lifting The Spice
Blurred Vision
Ignite The Power
Bold Energy
- Holographic Escapism -
Casall - Own Image - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Casall - Own Image - 2016
Casall - Own Image - 2016
- Sportswear -
Premium Trade Show Berlin - Own Image - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Holographic Escapism Holographic Escapism offsets hallucinatory effects that emulate a state of constant movement as graphic applications are cleverly constructed to imitate the illusion of changing shape and form. Double-register colour and offset prints create a moving optical illusion as the pattern magnifies and warps across the body. Exhibited in Autumn Winter 2016/17 collections from Mary Katrantzou X Adidas Originals, Antoine Peters and Bei Kuo. Holographic Escapism encapsulates the new style of fitness in which digital and immersive techniques are combined to create a sensory-rich experience to the hardcore workout. Retro reflective prints and optic fibers are utilised to show the athlete at high speed and in constant movement, reminiscent of a kinetic wave.
- Sportswear -
Premium Trade Show, Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Sportswear
Insulate
Blistered
Enflamed Amber
Maxi Bounce
Plumped Cotton
Crisp Cocoon
Layered Earth
Confined Space
Isolated
- Insulate -
Yeezy Season 3 - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Premium Trade Show, Berlin - Own Image - 2016
Marques Almeida - 2016
- Sportswear -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Insulate Insulate communicates voluminous puffa jackets of oversized proportions, featuring exaggerated sleeves and thick horizontal baffles, providing enhanced insulation and protection from the extreme elements. Cocooning the figure from neck to knee, high-shine tech fabrics are used to enhance the bubble like appearance of the jackets in coordination with central fastenings and dropped hemlines. Exhibited first in Menswear Autumn Winter 2016/17 collections by Raf Simons, Henrik Vibskov, Moschino and Rick Owens. The trend has since crossed over into Womenswear, demonstrated in collections by Marques Almeida, Balenciaga, Vetements and Yeezy Season 3.
- Sportswear -
Balenciaga - 2015
Autumn Winter 2016/2017
Sportswear
Oxidised Existance
Bleached Blur
Frosted Mineral
Moving Glacier
Grounded Element
Blurred Growth
Root
Natural Grain
Slate
- Oxidised Existance -
Alice Mourou - Unsplash - 2016
- AW 2016/2017 -
Stella McCartney X Adidas - 2016
Adyn X Harvey Nichols - 2016
Adyn X Harvey Nichols - 2016
- Sportswear -
- AW 2016/2017 -
- Oxidised Existance Oxidised Existence takes inspiration from the evolution of last seasons Blue wave Art attack trend. Strongly influenced by the elemental macro trend ‘Elemental’ taking aspects from glacial camo-like marbling, raw, frostbitten and whitened elements. These elements create a surface finish with a cracked, flaked, marbled effect. Oxidised Existence informs all-over prints that react and contort during exercise ensuring the fabric remain durable during an intense work out. Exhibited in Autumn Winter 2016/17 collections from Stella McCartney X Adidas and Adyn X Harvey Nichols.
- Sportswear -
Daniel, V. (no date) Photo by Daniel Lozano Valdés Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/lZ2LB1s_z7s (Accessed: 4 May 2016).
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
Morby, A. (2015) Snarkitecture suspends 700 air Jordan replicas in Kith’s Brooklyn store Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2015/11/13/snarkitecture-kith-brooklyn-store-installation-700-nike-air-jordan-replicas-cereal-bar/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Own Image, Alexanderplatz Mall. Berlin. 2016
Instagram photo by Snarkitecture • Nov 17, 2015 at 10: 24pm UTC (no date) Available at: https://www.instagram. com/p/-M91O2tiAd/?taken-by=snarkitecture (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
Linacre, E. (2016) The nest / edward linacre Available at: http://www.formakers.eu/project-1270-edward-linacre-the-nest (Accessed: 16 May 2016).
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
Own Image, Ethical Trade Show, Berlin. 2016
2015, K. (2015b) Kloke store Available at: http://kloke.com.au/blogs/journal/53544261-kloke-store (Accessed: 7 May 2016).
Own Image, Ethical Trade Show, Berlin. 2016
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
Own Image, Bikini Berlin. 2016
LTD, L.O. (2013b) Lookbook Available at: http://www.lazyoaf.com/lazy-swim-club (Accessed: 7 May 2016).
Peppiatt, C. (2016) Clio Peppiatt autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/clio-peppiatt (Accessed: 5 May 2016).
Webster, S. (2016) Sophia Webster autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/sophia-webster (Accessed: 2 May 2016).
Met, M.M. (2012) Colorful strips of geometric vinyl tape transform room Available at: http://www.mymodernmet. com/profiles/blogs/jim-lambie-vinyl-tape-floor-installations (Accessed: 9 May 2016).
Lauritzen, S. (2014) Monolitt Available at: http://syverlauritzsen.tumblr.com/post/97227302315/monolitt-is-an-interactive-installation-that-quite (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Burberry autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/burberry (Accessed: 11 May 2016).
Burberry autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/burberry (Accessed: 11 May 2016).
Marco de Vincenzo autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/marco-de-vincenzo (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Heiderich, M. (no date) Systems / layers I Available at: http://www.matthias-heiderich.de/systems-layers/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Heiderich, M. (no date) Systems / layers I Available at: http://www.matthias-heiderich.de/systems-layers/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Heiderich, M. (no date) Systems / layers I Available at: http://www.matthias-heiderich.de/systems-layers/ (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Pella, B. (2005) CAS – central authentication service Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/#/59426/page/1 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Spaceroom (2005) CAS – central authentication service Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59426/page/1 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Sironi, R. (2005) Roberto Sironi Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59426/page/1 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Own Image, Premium Trade Show, Berlin. 2016
Yeezy autumn/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/yeezy (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Almeida, M. (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ready-to-wear/ marques-almeida/full-length-photos/gallery/1583506 (Accessed: 18 May 2016).
Own Image, Premium Trade Show, Berlin. 2016
Inspired by women’s tops on Nuji (no date) Available at: http://blog.nuji.com/post/103035022018/inspired-bywomens-tops-on-nuji (Accessed: 16 May 2016).
Alice, M. (no date) Photo by Alice Mourou Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/6ka4w0Hnmd0 (Accessed: 7 May 2016).
A D Y N (2015) Available at: http://adynclothing.tumblr.com/ (Accessed: 6 May 2016).
The WGSN Active team, Stella Mccartney for Adidas, 2015, Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_ viewer/#/image.22158474/ (Accessed: 15 May 2016)
A D Y N (2015) Available at: http://adynclothing.tumblr.com/ (Accessed: 6 May 2016).