December 2016 / Issue 03
Maltese flavours in Mexico / Christmas: food that sings / Nuts for coconut / A fish called lampuka
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A food itinerary
“WE’LL always have Paris,” Humphrey Bogart tells Ingrid Bergman in one of the most memorable scenes in Casablanca. “Always” is the operative word here because travel is a closed context that is spiked with repetition. The Eiffel Tower will always have a familiar silhouette, the Maldives will present, time and again, the same palette of blue, green and bright yellow. And the Serengeti’s wonder is the annual animal migration – a red-letter day in a constant calendar. What makes travel a constantly changing experience is the food that we encounter on our travels. There’s always a new restaurant to experience, a new actor on the street food scene, and novel ingredient combinations. In this issue of Foodist, we pack our bags and follow two Maltese foodies abroad on their Anthony Bourdain-inspired adventures in Japan and South East Asia. We also spend a few days in San Sebastian, home to some of the best Michelin-star restaurants
in the world and where pinchos prove, time and again, the big flavours come in small bites. In recent years, it’s not only the Maltese that have become intrepid travellers. Maltese food is also being exported with significant success. In this issue of Foodist, we interview Takashi Takamiya, who has opened a Maltese restaurant in Tokyo, and Mark Mercieca, who is cooking up a Maltese storm in Mexico. In this issue of Foodist, we also pour some excellent wines, line your kitchen shelves with interesting recipes, and plug in some novel kitchen gadgets. And, of course, we celebrate Christmas with Jamie Iain Genovese’s quick but impressive recipes. READ ON AND ENJOY
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Foodist is published by Be Communications Ltd, No. 81, Howard Street, Sliema, Malta SLM 1754 All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in Money are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
Cover photo and styling Jamie Iain Genovese Read the cover story on page 16 Drink responsibly this festive season
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CONTENTS
Eat religiously
December 2016 / Issue 03
08 Maltese foodies abroad
13 South of the border
18 No crackers for Christmas
23 The functional aesthetic
27 In a nutshell
31 Celebrating good times
32 A new, old world to explore
34 Behold the beauty
36 Pie oh my
40 Kids in the kitchen
45 Happiness is
47 Amuse your bouche
51 Christmas delights
52 Flavours of Italy
58 Where the good things are
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TRAVEL
Beef Ball Noodle in Kuala Lumpur
Maltese foodies abroad Ruth and Clint Buttigieg ate their way through Japan and South East Asia.
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Was it just Anthony Bourdain who inspired you to pack your bags for a foodie trip? We can’t say that it was specifically Bourdain that inspired us to pack our bags. Both of us had been in our jobs for a good number of years. We had been dreaming of travelling and had friends who were on the road, which inspired us even more. We also happen to be foodies and Clint is a
fan of Bourdain which is what ultimately themed our trip. Needless to say when we decided that we were actually going to travel, watching Parts Unknown and No Reservations took a different dimension. Why did you choose Japan and South East Asia as your destination?
The answer is simple – we just love ramen. A couple of years ago we were hunting down the best ramen in New York and we ended up at Ivan Ramen – we were just blown away. We later learnt that Ivan Orkin achieved the impossible when in 2007, his restaurant became renowned as one of the best ramen joints in Japan, a country where ramen enjoys cult status.
Dinner at Toriki in Tokyo
Somehow this story inspired us and we never got our minds off Japan. Rice Noodle Fish, a book about Japan’s food culture by Matt Goulding, also gave us further inspiration. We also wanted to travel to places which are more adventurous and raw – Japan and South East Asia were a natural choice. What was your itinerary? We flew into Tokyo, Japan and spent three weeks travelling around the country using bullet trains to Kyoto, Osaka, Hiroshima, Takayama, Kanazawa and then back to Tokyo. Our next stop was a layover in Taipei before catching our next flight out to Bangkok, starting our South East Asia adventure. After a few days eating in the Thai capital, we caught our first 12-hour bus ride to Cambodia. Having explored the breathtaking temples of Cambodia, we made our way to Vietnam. Starting in the southern city of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) we spent the next month eating our way up to the northernmost cities of Vietnam. Next on our itinerary was the truly diverse and multicultural country of Malaysia. We spent a couple of weeks exploring the whole country, bus ride after bus ride, all the way down to Singapore and back to Kuala Lumpur.
One of the many Ramen we queued up for
“Memories of eating bowls of steaming pho on blue plastic chairs in the streets of Vietnam still makes us sigh”
At this point we were nearing the end of our adventure and with no plan where to spend the last few weeks, we decided to buy a ticket out to South Korea before heading back to Europe. What went into the planning and logistics of your trip? Even though we had been dreaming of taking this trip for over a year, the final decision to leave last March did not come about with much planning. It was only in the second week of February when we woke up to our usual 6.40am alarm, headed into the office, printed out our resignation letters, purchased our one-way ticket to Japan and that’s where it all started. We never wanted to plan much in advance – the only planning we did was where we were going to eat. Clint spent
the last month reading books, articles and blogs to figure out from where to get the best pad thai, tom yum, Taiwanese beef noodle, the best pho, bun cha, banh mi, laksa, and Hainanese chicken rice. We also made a few restaurant reservations in Japan since you would never manage to make it in otherwise. As for the rest, we had a rough idea of the main countries we had been longing to visit in Asia, so in the time we had we sorted out visa requirements for some countries, got our vaccinations, packed our bags and off we went. Has food always played an important role in your travels? We’ve always loved food and were keen to try out new cuisines and flavours. However the first time it played a major
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TRAVEL
Indian meal in Melaka, Malaysia
role in our travels was during our trip to Boston and New York in 2014. We had a list of eateries and made sure we visited them all. We enjoyed it so much that we knew each trip following this was going to be a foodie trip. The whole process of reading about a place, or watching food enthusiasts eating there and then finding your way to the same place to have a taste of it yourself, is so enticing. Highlights of your trip? Walking in alleys buzzing with izakayas or the smell of dashi making its way through norens used to land us in foodie Disneyland. We were lucky to secure a reservation at Sushi Mizutani, which has two Michelin stars. We entered this shrine with curious excitement. Quality and perfectionism in Japan is a highlight in itself. Westerners might think of yakitori as simply chicken on a stick, yet a Japanese yakitori master chef can butcher a chicken in 36 distinct pieces. On the other hand, memories of eating bowls of steaming pho on blue plastic chairs in the streets of Vietnam still makes us sigh. A 500km motorbike ride in the Northernmost part of Vietnam was truly off the beaten path and unforgettable. Any recipes or ingredients you brought back with you? This was actually a bit of a letdown. Naturally we visited multiple food markets yet we were hesitant to buy stuff as we were concerned that food items might be withheld by customs when we crossed countries. There was one thing however that we couldn’t resist to ship over – Vietnamese coffee! We also managed to get some matcha green tea from Japan and doenjang, a South Korean soybean paste which goes well with beef. We also couldn’t leave Japan without investing in a good quality Japanese knife.
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Tom Yum in Bangkok
Do you have any plans for your next trip? It’s bubbling away. We have no set date or timeline yet but it will be in the coming year and it will most likely include Australia, the Middle East and definitely parts of Asia again. Vietnamese iced coffee
Dinner with our taxi driver in Taipei
Like our vegetables need time, sun, water and great care to grow and to come to the right grade of maturation, in the same way our farm has budded and flourished year after year in the last 30 years. Our grandfathers, our fathers, the women of our family have given body and soul to the care of our land and its fruits. Their hard-working hands and their devotion have permitted us to grow up loving our sun and our red land, learning that is important to improve ourselves and the surrounding landscape. To produce as we do, let us say it, it is necessary to be a little bit agriculturist, a
little bit artisan and a little bit artist. Every time we create a new product, we stop to imagine which sensation we want to offer to our clients, which surprise we want to give them and, which is the best taste to use in order to leave a long memory of our wonderful place. Our farm is always opened to the public. With us people can discover and learn the art of cultivation, of the picking and the conservation of the vegetables. Touristic destination and meeting-place, “iContadini� is not only a brand but a way to choose a daily quality.
Founded in 1605. Giuseppe Giusti is the oldest producer in the world. 17 generations of expert balsamic vinegar producers have brought Giusti to be recognised as a point of reference for enthusiasts of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
INTERVIEW
South of the border Maltese food travels well to Mexico. Which is why Mark Mercieca opened a Maltese restaurant in Mexico City. How did your story with food start? I’ve always loved food. In fact, when I was young, my mum knew that the only real punishment that worked on me when I was naughty was using her cooking as a bargaining tool. The first hint I got that food would be one of the great loves of my life was, when I was around five years old and my mum prepared a toasted Maltese hobza. I remember it was smothered with Irish butter and carried three poached eggs and a hunk of steak. And it was all soaked in the gravy from the pan. That was, and will always remain, my first happy food memory. When did you decide to pursue a career as a chef? I don’t call myself a chef. I’m just a very demanding eater and most of the time, it’s much easier to cook yourself than to have to offend someone because they ruined a recipe.
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INTERVIEW
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At my restaurant, I serve dishes that make me happy, rather than creating intricate recipes. It’s all comfort food and things that complement the concept of food turned into such pleasure, that it becomes sinful. The name La Santa Gula translated into English would be ‘holy gluttony’ so I did choose a name that would push the line especially the one around the waist. On the other hand it’s all real food with excellent ingredients – we grow our own lettuce in house and have a vertical hydroponic garden, use organic meat and bake our own bread. Two years ago we also joined a small group of friends to set up a small project – we raise our own goats and make cheese in a sustainable manner. It’s been a great adventure. However, if six years ago, I knew what I know now about owning a restaurant, I would have never got into the business.
When did you first visit Mexico and what made you decide to open a restaurant there? I’ve always been fascinated by the country. I have been in Mexico for two decades and have owned a small real estate and construction company in the Mayan Riviera. I only came to Mexico City six years ago.
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INTERVIEW
“At my restaurant, I serve dishes that make me happy”
I remember a great friend of mine called Santos once gave me a word of advice. He told me to be the first and be the only one and the best. If not, forget all about it. So I became the first Maltese restaurant, the only one and with no competition. What were the challenges of opening La Santa Gula? Everything was a challenge, from the laws and being in a new environment to using different ingredients, learning a new language, even just explaining where Malta is and the difference between Maltese and Italian food. That said, I’m lucky to have a great team that keeps up with this difficult, impatient Mediterranean crazy guy. After a lot of work and some heartbreak we have managed to create quite a loyal following.
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La Santa Gula’s menu is not just about food – are you also serving a slice of Maltese heritage and culture? Food is a very defining feature of daily life in Mexico. Mexicans really know how to eat and what gave me most inspiration was they are not scared to try different things. The first day I arrived 20 years ago my first meal was pork fillets cooked with black beans and served with warm handmade corn tortillas and avocados. This dish gave me the same feeling I have for Maltese food – and I wanted to share that feeling.
La Santa Gula is at Calle Xicotencatl 168, Col del Carmen, Coyoacan, Mexico City.
CHRISTMAS
No crackers for Christmas He loves the vintage memories of mince pies and mulled wine – yet this year, Jamie Iain Genovese stirs, sizzles and fries some new festive memories.
CHRISTMAS is all about traditions and repetition – which is why at this time of year, I find myself cooking the same recipes for friends, from imbuljuta talqastan to mince pies washed down with cups of mulled wine. I love all these things because they’re all about memories. But sometimes, I feel like doing something new – dishes which are not hard to make but which still impress other twenty-somethings.
PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
Akoho sy voanio This dish from the Congo is Malagasy style, and is guaranteed to impress your parents, or your significant other’s parents, with your developing interest in other cultures, like the well-educated renaissance person you are. Or for yourself on a particularly crappy day. It doesn’t matter really – it tastes great anyway. Akoho sy voanio is a very creamy, umami tasting dish that is hard to hate.
METHOD In a large bowl, place the chicken with salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, lemon juice and zest, and let it marinate for a few hours. Heat the oil in a wok and sauté the onions and garlic until the onions are soft. Add the chicken and continue cooking until the chicken is browned on all sides. Reduce the heat and add the tomatoes and ginger, stir for a few minutes before adding the coconut milk. Allow to simmer until the chicken is tender and the sauce becomes thick. Serve over a bed of rice.
YOU NEED
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One chicken (cut into pieces)
Coconut oil (for frying)
250ml coconut milk
Salt
3 tomatoes, chopped
Pepper
2 onions, sliced
Lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tsp grated lemon zest
2 tsp ginger root, grated
Cayenne Pepper
Lobster Rolls I won’t say much here, other than that I had three and wanted more had I not been stuffed tighter than a Christmas turkey. They’re delicious, no doubt, and a trick at a party. The hardest part about this dish, I would say, is the lobster meat. I would try and
find cooked lobster meat in packages over sourcing, shelling, cleaning, and cooking your own lobster. But hey, up to you, maybe you could make a thing out of it and invite your friends for some shellfish-shelling fun. I won’t judge.
YOU NEED 4.5kg lobster meat
Kosher or sea salt
1 ½ cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and finely diced
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup mayonnaise
12 hot dog rolls, sliced in half
6 small scallions, very thinly sliced (or a similar quantity of chives)
2 sticks unsalted butter, soft at room temperature 2 tsp minced tarragon
METHOD If using live lobsters, steam or boil them. Leave to cool at room temperature. Use a cleaver to crack and remove the meat from the claws, knuckles, and tails. Remove and discard the cartilage from the claws and the intestines from the tails of the cooked meat. Cut the meat into ½-inch pieces. Place the diced cucumber in a colander for at least five minutes to drain the excess liquid. Mix the lobster, cucumber, mayonnaise, and tarragon (or chervil). If the salad is to be served within the hour, add the scallions (or chives). If not, add them 30 minutes before serving. Season with salt, if needed, and pepper.
Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes before serving, or as far ahead as the night before. When you’re ready to party, preheat a griddle over medium-low heat. Taste the lobster salad. Does it need more salt? Does it want more mayonnaise? Now’s the time to fix it. Lightly butter the insides of the buns. Griddle them for about two minutes, until golden brown. You could toast the buns a little further in a broiler or oven, but that butter-crisped, just-warm interior is the necessary magic. Stuff the toasted rolls with the chilled lobster salad. Stack ’em high and serve ’em hot.
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CHRISTMAS
Breadcrumb fried fruit It’s unfair, I suppose, to make a dessert that needs some deep-frying. Everything tastes good deep-fried. But who’s to say you can’t try balance the flavours a little bit? Full disclosure: I made these on a Sunday night purely for the picture, but I loathe the idea of wasting food so I sent out a text blast to a few groups of friends offering anyone in the area free samples. There were knocks on the door within five minutes – I wasn’t sure if I should be worried or impressed.
YOU NEED 2 Granny Smith (green) apples 250g all-purpose flour 2 eggs, beaten 2 cups breadcrumbs, untoasted 1 litre peanut oil ½ tsp salt
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50g sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
METHOD In a medium deep-sided saucepan over high heat, bring the peanut oil to between 325° and 350°F. In three separate bowls, place the flour, eggs, and breadcrumbs. Going one piece at a time, dredge the fruit in the flour, then the egg, then the breadcrumbs and set on a plate until all the fruit is prepared. Deep-fry the coated fruit pieces, turning occasionally. Don’t put too much stuff in
at once. The fruit is done once it is golden and floating in the oil, about three minutes Remove the fruit from the oil and drain on a paper towel on top of a cooling rack. In a bowl, combine the salt, sugar, and cinnamon. To serve: drop each piece of still-warm fruit into the cinnamon-sugar mixture, coat thoroughly, and serve immediately with a scoop of sorbet, gelato, or ice cream, and a drizzle of olive oil.
The Bourbon Mule This is the recipe for the modified Irish Mule Cocktail. I also put brown sugar on the rim to make it taste just that little bit better.
METHOD I hate faffing about with cocktails, the only exception being gin. Chances are that after any decent amount of cooking, you would be too. In that vein, here’s my recommended recipe for a drink that isn’t mulled wine this Christmas while you entertain your friends. You need 2 ounces Bourbon. Serve neat. And pat yourself on the back, slugger.
YOU NEED 2 ounces bourbon 6 ounces ginger beer (or more!) Juice of half a lime (about 1 ounce) Lime slices (optional, for garnish) Mint sprig (optional, for garnish) Brown sugar (optional, for the rim)
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Produced using only olives from our mother land of Sicily
KITCHENS
The functional aesthetic Vera Sant Fournier helps you maximise the potential of your kitchen space. AFTER a decade of kitchen designs, Vera Sant Fournier, from Vera Sant Fournier – Interior Design Studio compiled a list of kitchen design do’s and don’t to help you maximise the potential of your space. The rules which apply to kitchen design relate to flow and ergonomics, no matter what size or style of kitchen you have. “There is a set of design rules and principles which apply to all our kitchen designs,” she said. The kitchen triangle is a guideline to incorporate the major activities in the kitchen, which revolve around firstly the sink, followed closely by the fridge and cooking area. This list will help you create a practical layout with is functional, interactive and a key designed element of your home.
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Do’s Take the ‘triangle’ layout as a general rule. In open plan spaces, for example, the classic kitchen island design is the perfect layout for the triangle rule. However, if you are keeping all your services along one wall then ensure your sink is central to the fridge and cooker. Keeping traffic patterns away from the intersecting triangle lines is the best option to avoid possible kitchen layouts which create havoc when using this area of the home. Take an irregular space as a positive and embrace it. A great kitchen is a balance between function and aesthetics, so don’t sacrifice one for the other. Not every wall needs cabinets – some breathing space will prevent the room being overdone. Research clever products which create and save space. Think about the details, right down to your appliances and counter top thickness. Consider the lines and finishes of the cabinetry and how they relate different elements of the room. Mismatched cupboards, appliances and extractor hoods can create visual chaos, whereas a more integrated cupboard solution can also help streamline the room’s design, to create what I always emphasise: continuity and flow, especially in an open plan space. Do all the stainless steel appliances match? All built-in and visible appliances in the cabinetry must be from the same brand with the same finish. The best kitchens are those with soul. Design your kitchen for living, and make sure you not only consider how the kitchen looks, but how it will perform with everyday tasks, such as cleaning, cooking and storage, family and friend entertaining. Being able and willing to keep costs down is admirable, especially as kitchen installations can run into the tens of thousands. Knowing when to engage professional help is key to balancing kitchen design costs. If you feel confident with the look of your kitchen, but unsure of the cost structures, working with a professional interior designer will help maximise your budget. Putting together a workbook of ideas – images, layout sketches and details such as tiling options – can help you communicate your ideas to trades people and design professionals.
Dont’s Don’t overlook lighting. The lighting layout in your kitchen must be a fine balance of task and ambient lighting, and the key to a well-lit kitchen is in the control and the placement. Make sure overhead downlight are over task areas, otherwise the essential light will be lost over floor areas or, even worse, can create dark shadows over workstations. Ensure all lights are separately switched and dimmable, especially if your kitchen is in an open plan space. Consider adding lighting directly above all the main work areas. Don’t take counter working space for granted. Considering all the kitchen activities that require a countertop, as well as appliances that are permanently located there, you want to fit as much open horizontal surface area in a kitchen as possible. Don’t forget your splash back. This may save you money in the short term, but in the long run it will cost you a lot of time and effort. Forgetting or omitting your kitchen splash back altogether will result in dirty walls and a very untidy kitchen, an eye sore. Think about all the steam, water and grease in the kitchen, and you’ll understand why installing a backsplash above the cooktop and counters is a smart idea. Don’t forget your ventilation, especially in an open plan space. A good ventilation system will improve the quality of your air and keep your kitchen cleaner.
KITCHEN WORK TRIANGLES 24
U-SHAPED KITCHEN
L-SHAPED KITCHEN
G-SHAPED KITCHEN
ISLAND FLOOR KITCHEN
DOUBLE GALLEY KITCHEN
The dough is a mixture of the best durum wheat flour, very high protein value, and the local water. Oven drying times can vary between 18 and 48 hours in thermostatic ovens and for some past shapes it can take up to two days, just so that we can obtain the right porosity to better absorb sauces and condiments together with the typical consistency that gives our pasta an unmistakable aroma and taste.
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FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
In a nutshell Eat them young, says Trevor Diacono as he colours his kitchen with green coconut. COCONUT is very popular right now. Everyone is getting used to the idea of eating it on a more regular basis. People usually know it as coconut water or desiccated dry coconut used in desserts, which comes from a mature coconut. What is more unusual is the young coconut meat, which is soft. Before they fully mature, coconuts are green, with a thicker, fibrous outer shell. The juice from young coconuts is a refreshing and hydrating drink. People usually eat the soft flesh. It has also been shown to have medicinal properties for heart, liver and kidney disorders. Little do we know there is a huge difference between eating the young coconut meat and desiccated coconut from a mature coconut. Young coconut meat has a high protein content and low fat content. It can be used for a wide array of recipes. It is really creamy and its texture is perfect for raw food and Paleo recipes. A lot of chefs use it these days to make fresh smoothies, raw coconut wraps, raw coconut cream, coconut dips, raw mayonnaise, ice-cream, and fresh live coconut yogurt. Young coconut meat is rich in medium-chain fatty acids. Although these are saturated fats, your body processes them differently from other saturated fats, such as animal fats. Research has led us to believe medium-chain fatty acids, such as those found in coconuts, are used directly by the body as fuel, not broken down and absorbed like other saturated fats. Coconut fats are still widely misunderstood in the scientific community and further research into potential benefits is still needed. Like coconut water, young coconut meat is a good source of potassium and sodium, providing 285 and 16mg in a one-cup serving. Balanced sodium and potassium levels help keep your blood pressure at a healthy level. Coconut meat is also rich in B vitamins needed by your body to make energy and support red blood cell production.
TREVOR DIACONO
Trevor Diacono is a local entrepreneur and founder of Pure. Pure is a company that is dedicated to helping people achieve a healthy lifestyle. He is a food guru who creates dishes not only to tantalise your taste buds, but also fill your body with goodness.
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FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
Chilled coconut noodle soup METHOD Place the coconut noodles and vegetables in a bowl. Mix the ingredients for soup in a blender. Pour this soup in four plates over the vegetables and young coconut noodles. Add nut topping.
serves
x4
difficulty level
medium
20 min.
YOU NEED For the soup
For the noodles and vegetables
2 cups coconut water
2 cups young coconut meat
1 cup young coconut meat
1 red pepper, sliced thin
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup zucchini spiral sliced
4 small chilies
4 spring onions, sliced thinly
5 tablespoons lime juice For the topping
2 kaffir leaves 1tbsp lime zest
Âź cup macadamia nuts
1tbsp sesame oil
1tsp sea salt
1tbsp MGO 200 Manuka honey
1tsp lime zest, grated
1tbsp Himalayan sea salt
Coconut yogurt YOU NEED For the coconut yogurt 4 cups tender coconut meat 2 cups coconut water 2 capsules probiotics Optional Sweeteners Date Syrup Raw honey
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Raw coconut sugar Fresh fruit
METHOD Open enough coconuts to get four cups of tender meat and add two cups of coconut water and stir in two capsules of probiotics. Place the mix in a vitamix and blend until smooth. Cover this and let it sit at room temperature for two days (or in the fridge for four days)
until it has a tart taste. When ready, return to vitamix and blend again as it separates when fermenting. You may add your preferred sweetener such as date syrup, raw honey, raw coconut sugar or some fresh fruit. Refrigerate for one week.
The Galantino olive mill has been producing high quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil since 1926. The olives are handpicked at the best stage of ripeness, carefully selected, washed and then cold-pressed using the traditional stone grinders. The groves of the Galantino
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PROMO
Celebrating good times
Palazzo Castelletti celebrated their 3rd birthday treating several special guests, all of whom were anticipating San Andrea’s new menu for the holiday season. The brisk weather set the tone for a 5 course fantasy of the most exquisite dishes from San Andrea Restaurant accompanied by wines from Langmeil Barossa, a winery in South Australia.
THE dinner began with an amuse bouche of warm Arancini stuffed with risotto and peas, paired exceptionally well with a crisp, refreshing Reisling. Vitello Tonnato, a dish of thinly sliced veal, tonnato sauce, caper berries, fresh garden leaves and sweet paprika lent itself nicely to a buttery Chardonnay. Our pallets went wild with the Risotto Nero di sepia, a dish of warm risotto in squid ink, garnished with chargrilled marinated squid and marjoram fruit. A fruity, medium bodied Viognier with a nice touch of acidity left our mouths salivating before each bite of this creamy dish. We enjoyed a lemon cream mandarin sorbet to cleanse our palettes before the next dish of braised pork cheeks with root vegetables, potato purée, and jus. A silky, ruby red SMG matched up nicely with the flavorful meat and juicy assortment of vegetables. As we sat back and listened to a lovely speech from Palazzo Castelletti’s managing director, Keith Psaila, our eyes danced around the room, watching the waiters bring out desserts of peach and marshmallow bars with roasted peaches and white chocolate ice cream. This treat was enjoyed with a juicy medium sweet Reisling, finishing off our meal with a long zesty, fruitful finish – a real tease for the tongue! All is set for a memorable festive season at Palazzo Castelletti.
WINE
A new, old world to explore The Qvevri method allows the winemaker to express the terroir and the grape perfectly, Mark Cassar says. GOOD things definitely come in small packages and this couldn’t be truer of the world’s smallest winemaking country, with Malta’s vineyards producing some seriously good wine. With over 2,000 years of experience Malta has steadily become one of the most respected – yet least known – producers in the world, with some wineries exporting across Europe and beyond. Mark Cassar gives us a better understanding of the ancient Georgian traditional Qvevri wine-making method.
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How did you first get into this new method of wine making? I started planting, growing and harvesting organic grapes here in my fields on the road leading to the Salib tal-Gholja in Siggiewi around 10 years ago and embarked on this project, Methode Qvevri, in 2015. I don’t believe a person can become a winemaker. The best winemakers are intuitive and know the sound of the
vineyard and the feel of ferment. I have started making natural wine by using organic grapes in what are known as Qvevri. What are the Qvevri? Qvevri winemaking takes its name from the distinctive egg-shaped earthenware vessel – the Qvevri – in which wine is fermented and stored in villages and towns throughout Georgia. The Qvevri are buried in deep holes with earth and sand packed in tightly all around in a building in the vineyard, or nearby. The inside is sealed with hot beeswax and the lid of the Qvevri, after fermentation is complete, is sealed with wet clay coiled around the top with a heavy stone placed over it. Because Qvevri are buried underground, the earth’s temperature remains relatively constant. The Qvevri’s torpedo shape allows sediment to collect at the pointed bottom of the vessel, while the wine naturally moves around the middle.
Packing the Qvevri in sand gives the wines stability, but the winemaking method differs, too. Clay is porous, so before the Qvevri can receive the grapes, they need to be treated inside with hot beeswax. This goes deeply into the pores but does not completely seal the inside surface: a tiny bit of air needs to be able to breathe as the wines are being made. To stand out from the crowd, it’s good to have the Qvevri wine. It’s a different thing. That said, Qvevri are not enough to differentiate a winery – you need to have a good grape. What is the customary winemaking process once the grapes are brought to the winery? The Qvevri method allows the winemaker to express the terroir and the grape perfectly. This is a vessel that lets the winemaker create wine holistically. The fact that it is made of earth causes a repetition of what is already happening in the healthy vineyard.
It’s a never-ending cycle of ferment, in the soil and in the Qvevri. Making wine in Qvevri imparts a unique flavour. I pour organic grapes, skins and stems into the Qvevri in August each year, let them ferment with its indigenous yeast for two weeks, and then seal the Qvevri and leave them buried underground for six months before lifting the lids in April. If you are a modern winemaker using barrels, you’re racking the wine several times, moving it from one barrel to another. You’re checking things, you’re adding things to the fermentation, you are messing with the temperature. Qvevri winemaking allows the winemaker to be as uninvolved as possible. It’s the way wine was made before any modern contraptions.
of artificial or synthetic chemicals, such as herbicides and pesticides. To keep the weeds and bugs at bay, organic wine makers work with nature, rather than against it, by boosting their vineyard’s biodiversity. The gluten free wine is suitable for vegans and vegetarians and has a low sulphide level Mar Casar’s vineyards unique combination of climate, location, abundant sunlight and organic growing techniques creates the ideal backdrop for producing wines of richness and individuality. Tasting such wines, of course, requires some palate recalibration. What it doesn’t require, though, is indulgence. They’re
strange, not freaky; they speak a different language, but what they have to say is profound. Once you’ve got used to their depth of colour, weight and texture in the mouth, relatively soft acid balances, and original flavour allusions, one will have a new world to explore. Every wine is a story and it should be good and interesting. Consumers should be ready to listen to this story. I want to make a wine that is understandable. Depending on who is reading, it has a different meaning. This wine speaks for itself.
How would you say that the process of fermenting and ageing in Qvevri affects the wine – compared to stainless steel or wood, for example? Qvevri are porous and so closer in style to old barrels than modern stainless steel. The clay has pores and that takes us to the earth, but the earth is porous as well. Despite that, the wine in Qvevri is subject to minimal amounts of oxygen if well sealed. In addition to breathing they are surrounded by a constant temperature allowing for slow gradual fermentation and relatively stable storage conditions. What are the benefits of Mar Casar’s Merlot and Chardonnay wines? Mar Casar’s wines are made from grapes that have been grown without the use
“It’s a neverending cycle of ferment, in the soil and in the Qvevri”
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CHEFS
Behold the beauty These dishes by Zoran Bogdanovski and Sergi Huerga Marin look good enough to eat. And that’s what you should do. PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
Sergi Huerga Marin (right) executive chef and partner at Caviar & Bull and Buddhamann restaurants
Zoran Bogdanovski (left) sous-chef Buddhamann restaurant
34 Veal tenderloin, grilled sweet potato, flamed garlic and glassed shallots.
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Rabbit cannelloni Smoked grilled aubergine with black olive sand, hazelnuts and Osetra caviar.
35 Smoked grilled aubergine with black olive sand, hazelnuts and Osetra caviar.
CHEFS
36 Cuts of salmon on parmesan cracker, lemon jam, pickled onions, black truffle, dill and tarragon gel.
37 Forest mushrooms made of pistachio and ginger crumble, strawberry coulis and vanilla pods on a chocolate soil.
FISH
Pie oh my Whether fried, in a soup or with a curry, lampuki are a versatile fish. But for the best taste, stick with tradition. Alex Mattei bakes a traditional lampuki pie.
Alex Mattei
PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
METHOD Cut the fish into portions, discarding heads and tails. Dip in seasoned flour. Heat the oil and shallow fry until they are cooked through. Allow the fish to cool enough to be able to handle it. Remove all the skin and bones carefully and cut up into bite-sized pieces. Set aside. Fry the sliced onions in olive oil until they become soft and transparent. Then add the peeled chopped tomatoes and cook for one minute. Add the cooked chopped cauliflower, cooked chopped carrots, cooked chopped spinach and peas. Add a small amount of water and simmer until all the vegetables are tender. Add all the lemon zest, olives, herbs, spice, tomato puree, sultanas, and capers. Season and allow to simmer another five minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Roll out the pastry and line a shallow round, square or rectangular oven dish – don’t forget that you need to keep one third of the pastry for the top of the pie. Take half of the vegetable mixture and spread out on top of the pastry base, then place the fried lampuki pieces evenly over all the vegetables, and finish off by spreading the remaining vegetables as a top layer over the fish. Roll out the remaining pastry and place over the top sealing the edges well. Prick the pastry lid all over with a fork. Bake in a hot oven 200°C for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to moderate 180°C and cook further until the pastry is golden brown. Allow the pie to settle for 10 minutes and serve warm.
YOU NEED 500g prepared puff pastry or shortcrust
2 tbsp capers
1½kg fresh lampuki
2 tbsp sultanas
Flour, for coating
6 black olives, pitted and chopped
2 onions, sliced
1 tbsp parsley
A handful cooked peas
1 tbsp mint
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 tbsp basil
1 small cauliflower or broccoli, parboiled
1 lemon, zest only
1kg fresh spinach, cleaned and cooked or 500g frozen spinach cooked and drained 2 carrots, peeled and boiled till tender
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2 tbsp tomato puree (kunserva)
1 tsp mixed spice Olive oil Salt and pepper
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LUNCHES
Kids in the kitchen Alex Mattei thinks outside the kids’ lunch box. PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
Frittata
Lemon polenta gluten free cake 40
Soba noodle salad
Focaccia
Easy hummus and carrot sticks Easy hummus and carrot sticks METHOD Rinse the chickpeas in cold water and tip into the food processor. Add the tahini, crushed garlic, salt, lemon juice and seven tablespoons of the reserved liquid from the cans. Turn on the food processor and slowly pour in the oil while it runs. When the mixture is fully combined and smooth, tip it into a serving dish. Drizzle with some more extra virgin olive oil and decorate with a few whole chickpeas. Sprinkle with paprika and finely chopped coriander or parsley leaves, for colour.
2 x 400g cans of chickpeas 4tsp tahini 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1tsp crushed sea salt 6tbsp quality extra virgin olive oil 3½ tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice Paprika (optional) Coriander or parsley leaves (optional)
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LUNCHES
Soba noodle salad METHOD Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan over a high heat until they look golden brown, and tip them into a bowl. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and add some salt. Put in the soba noodles and cook them for about six minutes (or according to packet instructions) until they are tender but not mushy. Have a bowl of iced water waiting to plunge them into after draining. In the bowl you are going to serve them in, mix the vinegar, soy sauce, honey and oil. Then finely slice the spring onions, carrots and mange tout and put them into the bowl with the cooled, drained noodles and mix together thoroughly before adding the sesame seeds and tossing again. Leave the sesame seed noodles for about half an hour to let the flavours develop, although this is not absolutely necessary or sometimes even possible.
YOU NEED 75g sesame seeds
5tsp soy sauce
Pinch of salt
2tsp honey
250g soba noodles
2tsp sesame oil
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
5 spring onions/ grated carrots/sliced mange tout
Frittata METHOD Ask a grown-up helper to turn on the oven to 180°C. Snip or cut up the spring onions and put them in a bowl. Add the peas. Grate the courgette using your rotary grater, one half at a time, then add it to the bowl. Cut the ham into pieces with your scissors – if you do this over the bowl it will fall straight in. Break the feta into the bowl by crumbling it with your hands Crack the eggs into a bowl and, if any bits of shell fall in, scoop them out with a spoon. Whisk the eggs until the yolks are mixed into the white. Pour the eggs into the other bowl and stir. Brush a round ovenproof dish, about 16cm across, with oil. Tip everything into the dish. Ask a helper to put the dish in the oven for 30 minutes or until the egg is set. Serve with salad and crusty bread.
YOU NEED 2 spring onions, ends trimmed off 4 tablespoons of frozen peas, defrosted 1 courgette, halved with the ends cut off
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2 slices ham 100g feta cheese 4 eggs
Focaccia METHOD Place the flour, salt, yeast, olive oil and 300ml water into a large bowl. Gently stir with your hand or a wooden spoon to form a dough then knead the dough in the bowl for five minutes, gradually adding the remaining water. Stretch the dough by hand in the bowl, tuck the sides into the centre, turn the bowl 80 degrees and repeat the process for about five minutes. Tip the dough onto an oiled work surface and continue kneading for five more minutes. Return the dough to the bowl, cover and leave to rise until doubled in size. Line two large baking sheets with baking paper. Tip the dough out of the bowl and divide into two portions. Flatten each portion onto a baking sheet, pushing to the corners, then leave to prove for one hour. Preheat the oven to 220°C. Drizzle the loaves with oil, sprinkle with fine sea salt then bake in the oven for 20 minutes. When cooked, drizzle with a little more olive oil and serve hot or warm.
YOU NEED 500g strong white bread flour 2 tsp salt 2 sachets dried easy blend yeast 2 tbsp olive oil 400ml/14fl oz cold water Olive oil, for drizzling Fine sea salt
Lemon polenta gluten free cake recipe YOU NEED METHOD Line the base of a 23cm springform cake tin with baking parchment and grease its sides lightly with butter. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Beat the butter and sugar until pale and whipped, either by hand in a bowl with a wooden spoon, or using a freestanding mixer. Mix together the almonds, polenta and baking powder, and beat some of this into the butter-sugar mixture, followed by one egg. Then alternate dry ingredients and eggs, beating all the while. Finally, beat in the lemon zest and pour, spoon or scrape the mixture into your prepared tin and bake in the oven for about
For the cake 40 minutes. It may seem wobbly but if the cake is cooked, a cake tester should come out cleanish and, most significantly, the edges of the cake will have begun to shrink away from the sides of the tin. Remove from the oven to a wire cooling rack, but leave in its tin. Make the syrup by boiling together the lemon juice and icing sugar in a smallish saucepan. Once the icing sugar has dissolved into the juice, you’re done. Prick the top of the cake all over with a cake tester (a skewer would be too destructive), pour the warm syrup over the cake, and leave to cool before taking it out of its tin.
200g soft unsalted butter 200g caster sugar 100g fine polenta (or cornmeal) 1½ tsp baking powder 3 large eggs Zest of 2 lemons For the syrup Juice of 2 lemons 125g icing sugar
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SIMPLY
great for dipping
Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555 facebook.com/attardcofood
PROMO
Happiness is... a really good cup of coffee
BEHIND every great cup of coffee are perfectly roasted beans. Ever wondered where those beans come from or how they are roasted? A few weeks ago Hugo Castaneda, Costa Coffee’s master roaster came to Malta to deliver a coffee masterclass at Costa’s new store in St Julian’s. Some people are truly born into their profession, and Columbian coffee expert Castaneda is one of them. He grew up on his family’s small coffee plantation in Cundinarca, a region renowned for its coffee production. He spent his childhood watching his grandfather harvest the crops and he came to love the aroma of coffee beans roasting in a large pan. “The whole house would be flooded with the smell of it. When I think back, it was then that I really started to fall for coffee,” Hugo said. “I started to work with the National Federation of Coffee Growers in Colombia when I was still studying, and they sponsored my thesis. I continued working there after I graduated – quality checking around 200 tons and 150 cups of coffee every single day. It certainly taught me a lot.” With his nose and taste buds perfectly tuned to the coffee world, Hugo moved to London, where he joined Costa Coffee in 2009. “I’ve worked there ever since,” he said, adding that Costa has spurred his search for the perfect cup of coffee. “Defining that perfection is all down to what our customers want. When it comes to crafting our coffees they are all based on the same blend but they vary slightly. We work backwards and take all the feedback we receive on board. It’s a process that we believe leads to us right to the ultimate cup of coffee – a Costa cup of coffee.” The journey towards that blend is actually more complicated than most people would think – and that’s where Hugo’s laboratory comes in.
“We test thousands of cups of coffee every year to ensure standards remain consistently high,” he said. “Our ‘cupping test’ has been designed to investigate everything – from the perception of the aroma to the taste of the liquid. We need to analyse the various flavours, namely the acidity, sweetness and bitterness, as well as check the coffee’s body and tactile element.” Hugo and his team painstakingly test over 50 cups everyday to ensure each one meets strict test specifications. He’s quick to add that they don’t drink them though – but spit them out, a bit like wine tasting. “Drinking them all would be nuts. That said, I do drink my fair share of coffee every day. My particular favourite is a ristretto – a short espresso, with no milk or sugar, and I have about five per day for pleasure. I don’t like altering my coffee in any way, but prefer it in its truest form.” Despite his own infatuation with all things coffee related, Hugo understands that it isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. So, what should coffee newbies do to get their palates coffee-ready? “Try an Americano. It’s not as heavy or intense as espresso because it’s diluted with water, but you can still enjoy the genuine coffee taste, which will help you explore whether you like bitter or sweet flavours. Once you know the fundamental taste, then you can experiment with milk to alter the texture, or try a more concentrated version to up the intensity.” Hugo’s motivation comes from his desire to give Costa lovers the ultimate coffee experience. “Costa’s constant desire to innovate excites me,” he said. “I will never stop hunting down the latest coffee trends, or searching for new ways to please our customers. When I look to the future of coffee, it’s all about mixology, dynamic flavor combinations and theatrics. That’s what our customers want, so that’s what we’re going to give them. It’s great fun to think that it all begins in our laboratory,” he added with a smile.
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Our new and prestigious range of products Villa Reale Supreme pays tribute to the excellence of Sicilian Cuisine. The line was born out of the love for this land together with the experience of two generations of culinary experts. These delicious creations are chosen only for he who is in search of unique style and unmistakable quality.
The Excellence of Taste
TRAVEL
Amuse your bouche San Sebastian’s small eats have a big heart, Mona Farrugia finds.
I REALLY, really, really wanted to go to San Sebastian. I wanted to go so much I rerouted a long trip, making it much longer, just for the sake of going there. Within an hour of being there, I wish I had not gone at all. For those who love food, San Sebastian is the cross on the map marking hidden treasure. Home to the Arzaks, the Adrias, more Michelin stars than an entire African sky constellation, more up-and-coming chefs than any generation can produce, more food shops, more restaurants, more bars per square metre than…well than practically anywhere else I’ve been to in the entire world. And these are all, without fail, good quality. First of all, though: the hotel. It is ridiculously expensive but sadly, every single person I know that had been to San Sebastian had stayed there, including a few Michelin starred chefs who are friends. “Is it worth it?” I asked them. “Seriously, it’s gorgeous,” they all replied. “Is it worth it?” I repeat. “Who cares? Are you going to take
your wallet with you when you die?” And who could argue with that? Still, instead of staying three nights at the Maria Cristina, I stayed two. The Maria Cristina (run by Starwood under their Luxury Collection brand) is one of those superbly imposing buildings where anybody who is anybody stays. They do not even have a pool and they are not on the beach but it’s a superb piece of hostelry architecture worth staying at for the sake of experiencing one of the world’s greats. Helene Darroze was cooking there when I arrived. The last time she and I spoke was in her then Paris kitchen, in one of those silly aluminum structures which are meant to be the chef’s ‘office’. She was much smaller then and has put on a few kilos. This time, though, I didn’t want any fiffy faffy Michelin-starred food: I wanted to get out there and immerse myself in pintxos culture. Pintxos are basically tapas, but whereas legend has it that tapas were originally the ‘cap’ for a beer bottle, here, the small morsels
of anything and everything have become bigger, brighter, better. The culture is such that at the hotel they gave us a brochure with a plan: traditional and modern pintxos – where to get what. I asked my friend David, who used to work at Noma, where to go. “Any ex-colleagues who have set up their own outfit?” I asked. “Don’t bother. There are so many young ones we’ve never even heard of, you’re bound to discover somebody new,” he advised. And sure enough, it was a pintxos-hop, all the way to what is marketed as the best cheesecake in the world from La Vigna. Baked in old-fashioned tins with loads of cream and cheese and only one tablespoon of flour per cake, it’s almost a low-carb dream of lightness, denseness and that irreplaceable unctuousness of a kilo of dairy. You stand there at the bar and order a vermouth and some cake and you stuff your face and watch and listen. In Paris you sit and watch. Here you stand, listen and eat. It’s all about people in San Sebastian,
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TRAVEL
currently European City of Culture. First of all, the amount of people who visit is, for such a small city, phenomenal. Amaia Gorriti, who runs the marketing for the Maria Cristina, told me that until 10 years ago, nobody had even heard of the beautiful city on the sea, its surf, its food. Now they simply cannot keep up with demand. This, obviously, is reflected in the prices of the hotels, which is as it should be. It is not, on the other hand, reflected in the prices of the bars. Which means rents in the old town are still low. On average, a ‘normal’ pintxo is €3 to €5. By ‘normal’ I mean fresh seawater prawn combined with fresh avocado and micro herbs. As expected, Iberico ham, sliced and served with absolutely no adornment – the ham itself is the star of the dish, and the only star – costs anything from €15 to €20. That’s still less than half the price of a London tapas bar. You do not go to the pintxo bars to eat mounds of food: it is
a wonderful experience of flavour. Local ingredients, combined well, done with amusement and creativity. The Spanish themselves know how to handle the ‘small eats’ situation: they order three dishes to share, drink small beers, small vermouths (chilled, always) and jerez, chat, laugh, stand (only the foreigners want to sit down at a table) and move on to the next bar. Each bar has its own speciality, including blood sausage, liver and brain. A couple of them specialise in phenomenal slabs of beef. Even for that, you stand at a table, inside or outside, and share. In fact, with their ‘small eats’, the standing, the moving on the Maltese would probably hate it. Thank goodness there are no direct flights. I can just imagine the embarrassing twitadvisor one-star reviews that the portions were not big enough. The fact that it is so complicated to get to San Sebastian does not seem to be putting anybody else off. Their main attraction is the food experience. On the nights I was there, I met more chefs, many from the US, simply standing and experiencing, than anywhere else, ever, in two square miles. I got chatting
to a lady eating cheesecake outside La Vigna and she turned out to be a restaurateur from Hungary, owning 12 restaurants. The Americans themselves simply cannot get enough of it and the Spanish love their own food. They do not think it should come in a huge pile in an illegal farmhouse. On Sunday, San Sebastian is practically dead commercially as everybody takes to the surf and the restaurants: all retail shops except for a couple in the high-tourism zones, are closed, and so is the infamous food market of La Bretxa. So, just before I left, I visited to stock up. Most of the shops were closed and it sadly reminded me of how our Valletta suq was before it closed for recovery. There were a few meat shops, fish shops and a wonderful stand selling hundreds of kinds of olive oil. I bought my iberico, my salts and started to get out. Then I realised where most of the people walking in were going: the genuine food sellers share their space with a massive Lidl. Even the world’s capital genuine food has been inflicted.
CHRISTMAS IN STYLE
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Celebrate this festive season with Le Meridien St Julian’s Hotel & Spa and make this Christmas a memorable one. Located in the heart of Balluta, Le Meridien provides the perfect atmosphere for your event this season. The hotel’s innovative and creative team is working hand in hand with the newly appointed culinary department to ensure that every element of your experience is outstanding. Whether it’s a staff gathering or family meal, Le Meridien offers a diverse selection of menu options and beverage choices to complete your special event. Contact Le Meridien today and begin organising your festive celebration. Call on 2311 2254 or visit Le Meridien’s website for more information.
COOKING
COOKING CLASS
Christmas delights Pippa and Alex Mattei were at Park Towers Supermarkets to prepare the ultimate Christmas delights – mince pies. PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
Mince pies
ROLL out the pastry to a 0.3cm thickness. Cut out rounds with a 7.5cm fluted cutter and the same amount of rounds with a 5.5cm fluted cutter. Line greased patty tins with the large rounds. Fill with a teaspoon of mincemeat, dampen the edges of the small rounds with water and a pastry brush, place on top and press all round the edges. Prick the top with a fork and either freeze or bake To bake, heat the oven to 200ºC and cook the pies for 15 to 20 minutes until golden. Dust with icing sugar and serve hot.
Shortcrust pastry
Mincemeat
METHOD
METHOD
Sieve the flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Chop up the fats into chunks and mix into the flour and salt with your fingers until they resemble breadcrumbs. Lift the mixture as you go along. Make a hole in the middle and mix in the cold water, lemon juice and egg yolk. Mix together with a knife until the mix starts to blend. Knead until soft. Wrap the ball of pastry in greaseproof paper and chill for at least half an hour. When ready to use, take out of the fridge and bring back to room temperature to roll out.
Put all the ingredients in a large bowl, starting with the dried fruit, mixed peel, apples, suet and sugar. Add the almonds and mix well. Add the flavouring and rum. When all is blended, put into dry jars, pressing down firmly. Store in a cool and dry place until needed.
YOU NEED 400g plain flour 100g butter or margarine 100g lard 1 egg yolk
YOU NEED 200g apples, peeled and grated
200g suet (atora)
200g mixed peel, finely chopped
25g blanched almonds, chopped
200g currants
¼ tsp nutmeg, grated
200g sultanas
1 glass brown rum
200g raisins
Juice and grated rind of one orange, one lemon and one tangerine
200g white sugar
100ml very cold water Good squeeze of lemon juice Pinch of salt
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COOKING
TASTING SESSION
Flavours of Italy Last October, Park Towers Supermarkets and TV personality and chef Manuel Xuereb offered customers free tasting sessions at their St Venera outlet. On the menu was a tasty plate of pasta with aubergine and tomato sauce. PHOTOS BY JAMIE IAIN GENOVESE
TV personality and chef Manuel Xuereb during the tasting session
Manuel’s Pasta with aubergine METHOD
Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Cook the aubergines for 10 minutes to soften. Season well with pepper and salt then add in the garlic and fry for two minutes. Add in the Rosso Italiano polpa and cook for a minute before adding in a splash of red wine, sugar, Italian herbs and polpa. Turn down the heat and cook for five minutes before adding the cherry tomatoes and sliced black olives. Cook for another five minutes only before stirring in chopped basil leaves. To serve, fill two pasta bowls with the Giuseppe Afeltra orecchiette pasta and spoon over the aubergine sauce. Add a little grated ricotta salata and serve decorated with fresh basil leaves and a drizzle of oil.
YOU NEED
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1 aubergine, diced
1tsp sugar
2tbsp olive oil
1tbsp Italian dried herbs
Pepper and salt
10 Cherry tomatoes
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Grated ricotta salata
1 jar Rosso Italiano polpa
Basil leaves
Splash of red wine
200g orecchiette Giuseppe Afeltra pasta
GADGETS
Christmas in the kitchen Don’t huff and puff over Christmas lunch preparations. Here are Foodist’s little helpers.
IN THE POT Designed by Sanaa, this elegant Alessi stainless-steel design functions as both a tea and coffee pot.
FLOWER POWER Keep your hands cool when things get hot with Cath Kidston’s double oven gloves. They have been tested to British and EU standards, so they’re ready for your hottest dishes.
COUNT TO CAVIAR The Prunier Caviar Advent Calendar is for all those who have started the countdown in foodie style.
GETTING HOT 54
This infuser espresso machine by Breville features a 15-bar Italian pump, auto purge system and electronic temperature control. This ensures temperature stability for a better tasting cup.
THE CRAFT OF CUTTING These Sai Nakiri knives by Global are crafted from special Cromova 18 Sanso material, comprising three layers of stainless steel, sandwiched between two layers of softer SUS410 stainless steel material with a 58-59° Rockwell Hardness hand-polished blade.
LITTLE KITCHEN HELPER The Boss by Sage is a high-power blender that can help you cook anything, from hot soup to frozen desserts, in minutes.
PITCH IN The Georg Jensen x Patricia Urquiola pitcher features mirror polished surfaces with ribbed steel and has an eco-friendly, durable coating.
PRECIOUS BEAKERS These engraved silver shot beakers by Theo Fennell are beautifully inspired by Greek mythology and the four seasons. They add a luxurious element to your dinner table.
A COOK IN YOUR KITCHEN The Kenwood kCook chops, steams, stirs and cooks. Moreover, it has three pre-set recipe settings and a 1.5-litre cooking capacity.
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FOODIST OUTLETS
Eat, drink and pick up a copy of Foodist magazine from these outlets.
FOOD FOR YOUR MOOD
A GREEN MENU
Giacomo’s Café Bistro, set in the heart of Sliema’s shopping district, brings together an interesting fusion of fresh Mediterranean food, international wines and signature drinks. With a flair for green living, Giacomo’s specialises in vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Giacomo’s Café Bistro, The Strand, Sliema. Tel: 2713 7407.
Café Jubilee is the place to eat and drink whatever the time of day and the mood you’re in. Gzira outlet is now offering takeaway delivery service also in the evenings from 6pm till 11pm, available in the localities of Gzira and surrounding areas.
A MATCH IN DELICIOUSNESS
Talbot & Bons offers a unique ambience in the Central part of Malta, at the Malta International Airport, SkyParks Business Centre. The wide variety of craft Italian beers, South Tyrol cider, organic soft drinks and juices as well as a varied food menu including salads, platters and their very well known burgers make this place ideal for business lunches, meeting friends as well as a relaxed dinner with your loved one!
A NATURAL APPROACH
At The Deli, ingredients are everything. The Deli stands behind sustainable and organic suppliers who are passionate about the quality of their products. The Deli grows its own organic ingredients at The Ladybird Farm in Dingli. Every morning fresh produce is delivered to the store to ensure the freshest of food.
CHEERS TO A GREAT EXPERIENCE
The Master Cellar is determined to offer a bespoke and friendly experience within the pleasant interiors of their outlet, promising its patrons that feel good factor, whether buying a premium wine or a single malt, for the start to a great moment.
COOKED WITH PRIDE
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The Pulled Meat Company serves only the best slow cooked soul food from the heart of Valletta. By soul food we mean food cooked with pride, using nothing but the best fresh ingredients. Our menu will be updated daily with a variety of crunchy ftajjar, nutritious soups and fresh salads. Follow us on Facebook for updates where we would love to hear your feedback.
CHEERS TO FOOD AND WINE
Good wine deserves good food and at Sistina Wine & Co. you will find an extensive wine selection to pair with a small but diverse menu offering flavours from around the globe. Sistina Wine & Co. is now also offering a special lunch menu with a difference. For more information visit www.sistinawineco.com.
BEAN THERE
ROCKSALT
The Rocksalt concept was developed by a mixed group of professionals that are also dedicated foodies and wine lovers. The concept is simple – top quality food, top quality wines and drinks, top quality service and top quality designed ambience with impeccable attention to detail.
REACH FOR THIS SHORE
Shoreditch Bar & Kitchen is situated in the heart of the Maltese nightlife. Shoreditch is the ideal place to have a great meal and enjoy a pint of lager.
Voted best coffee shop chain in Southern Europe at the Allegra European coffee awards, Costa Coffee is now offering its freshly ground Mocha Italia coffee in two two new, welcoming stores in Marsaxlokk and St Julian’s. Follow Costa Coffee on Facebook and Instagram for updates.
MY WAY
Serving the best of New York Cities most recognised eats, without having to fly across the Atlantic! Pizza, burger, hot dogs and shakes, all made from scratch with exclusively procured ingredients. New York Best offers a cool alternative vibe and recently added cheeky cocktail menu! Four locations to choose from. Follow us on Facebook.
DAY AND NIGHT EXPERIENCE
C&S Wine Café is a chic café by day and wine bar by night. They also offer a tasty selection of healthy dishes and freshly made salads and their signature house specials and platters. Now open in Portomaso, the Malta Intl. Airport and the Vivaldi Hotel in St Julians.
HEALTHY LIFE
Pure brings you delicious and healthy raw cold pressed juices, super food smoothies, gluten and lactose free desserts, home made nut milks and other healthy foods. Pure also specialises in juice cleanses. Pure Living, Windsor Street, Sliema.
THE ART OF FINE DINING
Perched on Mdina’s centuries-old bastions, within the Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux, awarded the runner-up for the best boutique dining hotel in the world, the de Mondion offers a unique fine dining experience, enhanced by truly spectacular panoramic views, charming features and elegant surroundings. For bookings call 2145 0560 or e-mail info@xarapalace.com.mt. For more information visit www.xarapalace.com.mt.
ELECTRO LOBSTER PROJECT
Lobster is the specialty at Electro Lobster Project in Balluta Buildings, Sliema. The rest of the menu is classic Sicilian, with lots of fresh fish, quality meats, vegetarian and vegan options. Fresh smoothies and juices, a large selection of teas from RARE Tea Company, specialty coffees and daily changing desserts top the list of delights.
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PROMO
Where the good things are Sistina Wine & Co is the ultimate haven for those seeking the finer things in life.
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TUCKED away among the hustle and bustle of the busy Gzira seafront is Sistina Wine & Co – a hidden cove of undiscovered treasures to tantalise the senses of any food and wine lover. The chic lounge and retail store stocks hundreds of bottles of wines, fine teas, single malt whiskies and oak-aged grappa. Its luscious wine bar also welcomes anyone seeking to kick back the day’s troubles and enjoy the finer things in life. Sistina Wine & Co features bright accents, chunky wood, cork walls and warm lighting. Cosy armchairs and tables are surrounded with wooden shelving, well-stocked with
products of the finest quality. The wine bar boasts over 400 different wines from all around the world including Italy, France, Spain, USA, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, South Australia, New Zealand, Lebanon and of course our sister island, Gozo. For those feeling peckish, the vast menu offers a variety of cheese, charcuterie, pates as well as Lebanese specialties. Besides this, if you’re looking for something different, you may choose from the wide range of proseccos, single malt whiskies or oak-aged grappas. Choosing the ideal item may be a difficult task – however Sistina’s knowledgeable
staff can offer their expertise to suit any requirement or occasion particularly if you’re looking to pair food and wine or any other alcoholic drink for that matter. Sistina is also proud to host a variety of events which range from wine tasting sessions, prosecco nights, book reading sessions as well as art exhibitions. Besides the organised events, Sistina provides tailor made packages for any group seeking to organise their own private event. Sistina is the perfect venue to share an afternoon cup of tea or a glass of wine in an intimate ambiance or to unwind and enjoy delicious platters and wines at affordable prices. 188, The Strand, Il-Gzira. www.sistinawineco.com
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€170 19
€58
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€200
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€46
Dical House offers an extensive sumptuous selection of luxury hampers and gifts suiting any budget. All are custom built in Malta to ensure exclusivity and unique touches.
Contact us today to set a no-obligation meeting
DICAL HOUSE • St. Anthony Street, Mosta • 2142 4600 / 1 • foods@dicalgroup.com • www.dicalhouse.com
THE NEW MINI CONVERTIBLE. ALWAYS ON THE SUNNY SIDE. FROM €23,700 INCLUSIVE OF SCRAPPAGE SCHEME). THE NEW MINI(PRICE CONVERTIBLE. ALWAYS ON THE SUNNY SIDE. Muscats Motors Ltd. Rue D’Argens, Gżira FROM €23,700 (PRICE INCLUSIVE OF SCRAPPAGE SCHEME). Phone: 2326 4582/1 Email: info@mml.mizzi.com.mt mini.com.mt Muscats Motors Ltd. Rue D’Argens, Gżira Phone: 2326 4582/1 Email:Consumption, info@mml.mizzi.com.mt Fuel combined: 3.8 l/100km. CO2 emissions – 100 g/km. mini.com.mt
Fuel Consumption, combined: 3.8 l/100km. CO2 emissions – 100 g/km.