June 2017 / Issue 04
Hot Coals / The Enigma of Swordfish / The Narrow Vegan Gate / Finding Ftajjar
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A food itinerary
“SO you were born to feel “nice”? Instead of doing things and
Locally, we have stories about our local swordfish as well as
I don’t read a lot of philosophy, but this quote by Marcus Aurelius was doing the rounds, and going out to experience life is what’s cool about food, you know? When I first saw Star Wars I was amazed by the whole new world, the cool new things there that never existed. Finding something ‘amazing’ happens outside of movies, as we at Foodist set out to prove.
And, as usual, we have our picks for kitchen gadgets and home furniture that is true to our tastes here at Foodist.
experiencing them? Don’t you see the plants, the birds, the ants and spiders and bees going about their individual tasks, putting the world in order, as best they can? And you’re not willing to do your job as a human being? Why aren’t you running to do what your nature demands?”
Our foodies abroad have reported back with some cool stuff from Munich and East London after listening to their natures, and they share the details of the markets in Munich, the brunch spots in the East End, and what makes them special.
sustainability in the fishing industry, something that summers in Malta are very much about, almost as much as the barbecue scene itself, to which we have dedicated a feature. But more than that, we can see how exciting and new things are happening in Malta, such as the birth of the vegan and organic food scenes, and the food that’s come from there. But we also did some stuff on people that have been doing what they have been born to do, the ftajjar that have become a part of our culinary landscape through the years of tradition.
READ ON AND ENJOY
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Cover photo by Jamie Iain Genovese with Nick Diacono at Fat Louie’s, Paceville Read the cover story on page 42
Since 1929 Inaudi’s products have been made using traditional artisan methods and only the best ingredients get hand picked so you can enjoy their distinctive flavours all year round.
Eat religiously June 2017 / Issue 04 10 Brunch about East London Melanie Vella gives us the insider’s brunch guide to the best places to kick back and enjoy a late morning treat that usually spills in to an early afternoon feast.
14 Munich’s most delicious market Veronica Stivala strolls through her favourite food market in the heart Munich Viktualienmarkt, and, as always, falls for some culinary delight, this time a cheesy one.
19 The Enigma of the Swordfish Victor Paul Borg charting some of the
maritime history of fishing of the famous white meat of the sea: swordfish, in Malta, and peeks a little into its future.
23 The Narrow Vegan Gate Anna Maria Galea explores the vegan and vegetarian options within the capital city’s walls. What did she find?
31 Flavour of the month Trevor Diacono teaches us the difference between cacao and cocoa, and we’re passing it on to you.
39 Fish in our Future Maltese chefs and fish4tomorrow discuss the sustainability and future of fish for us, and for our children, by talking about the fish we eat today.
50 Gadgets The hot stuff. If you can stand the heat, get in the kitchen.
52 Sticks of Furniture Although, we admit, they’re really pretty sticks of furniture.
54 Sea bass Sensation The month, Park Towers Supermarkets in collaboration with Foodist and chef Ivan Miller featured the 10th free cooking class at the St Venera outlet’s live kitchen.
56 Foodist outlets Eat, drink and pick up a copy of Foodist magazine from these outlets.
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TRAVEL
Brunch about East London Melanie Vella gives us the insider’s brunch guide to the best places to kick back and enjoy a late morning treat that usually spills in to an early afternoon feast.
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SINCE moving to London last January there are several Londoner trends I’ve picked up. One of my favourite is the Saturday or Sunday brunch bonanza, as perfected by the hipper-than-thou crowd of East End. Londoners love nothing more than a long brunch – be they bottomless and boozy or vibrant and virtuous. Well, ok, especially the former.
If you’re food obsessed and want to discover the trendier, upbeat and somewhat more affordable side to London’s latest foodie developments the next time you’re in town, venture out of Central London and into the elusive East. I’ve selflessly brunched my way around to bring you the buzziest brunch spots this side of the river.
FIKA Shoredtich This Brick Lane venue lives up to its
namesake, serving coffee with a kick. ‘Fika’: meaning coffee plus something to eat, is somewhat of a cultural ritual in Sweden. Hit pause whilst browsing around the trendy but hectic market stalls along Brick Lane and retreat to this little haven. The cosy interior extends to a hidden outdoor roof terrace complete with cushions, salted-caramel popcorn and Scandi-inspired cocktails with
a twist of elderflower, cloudberry liquor
or Swedish beer. These feature alongside their signature brunch dish, ‘The full Nordic’ – gravadlax; a home cured dill infused salmon, egg on sourdough toast, yoghurt and mini granola. The servings assimilate the surroundings, compact but bursting with character and flavour, so don’t shy away from this hearty Nordic treat. And just to make sure you’ve got the full Swedish experience,
indulge in a kladdkaka, sticky chocolate cake, a well-loved and famous Swedish sweet.
FIKA Bar & Kitchen is at 161 Brick Lane, London, E1 6SB.
The Hive of Vyner Street This is the place to scoff runny yolks spread over smashed avocado and brie elevated on a thick sourdough bread. The corner-side spot serves up an all vegetarian brunch menu with vegan options for vibrant dishes such as tempeh, brie and pear toasties, acai bowl with sprouted buckwheat granola hemp seeds, berries and coconut milk. Best of all is their take on the quesadilla — flat rice bread with scrambled tofu, cashew cheese, cucumber and butternut squash squashadillas washed down with a slowpressed green juice. Premium Italian coffee is served with fresh, home-made almond
The Hive of Vyner Street is at 286-290, Cambridge Heath Road, London E2 9DA, UK
milk. You can veg out here through to dinner and proceed to indulge in some of the finest Italian wines this side of the city. The focus is on simple organic food combinations to provide surprising flavours, textures and in turn, vitality.
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TRAVEL
Broadway Market is at London E8 4QJ
Broadway Market If you’d like to experience the East End
eating revolution in a single sitting, head down to Broadway Market on a Saturday morning and pack some napkins. Dip into some 200 stalls serving diverse delicacies from around the world — from French crepes, asparagus,
onion and bacon tarts, Gujarati thali,
Scottish toasties and Caribbean curries, a selection of olives, sundried tomato pastes and home-made artisanal cheeses to rainbow-coloured meringues and vegan salted-caramel fudge. This is a foodie experience for cheap eats of
an exceptional standard, especially if
you don’t mind the dinky, disposable containers. Urban food lovers can dabble in an assortment of edible delights, while being serenaded by street artists and, if you’re lucky, a stroke of sunshine to top off the Saturday scene.
Victory Mansion Pub, Stoke Newington Bottomless boozy brunch takes a new spin in this 1930s-New York-inspired establishment owned and run by five friends. For just £15, you are served up an unlimited number of cocktails for two hours. Choose from four inventive cocktails that put a twist on the traditional concoctions. The Bloody Defoe mixes vodka, Guinness, marmite, tomato and spice to add a perfect kick-start to your midmorning meal. The food selection includes vegetarian options, which are not merely an after-thought! I loved the spring onion and pumpkin fritters, creamy chilli avocado and the sourdough toast. Bacon-lovers are catered too. Opt for the classic bacon, two perfectlyexecuted poached eggs sprawling over trendy sourdough toast and top-off with pea-shoots. Victory Maison is a tasteful understated spot, catering for the perfect lazy weekend catch-up with friends over a few flavourful cocktails.
12 Victory Mansion Pub is at 18, Stoke Newington High Street, London, N16 7PL
We’ve dished out plenty of options to make sure the most important meal of the day is also the tastiest. Rise, shine and bottoms up!
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TRAVEL
Munich’s most delicious market Veronica Stivala strolls through her favourite food market in the heart Munich - Viktualienmarkt, and, as always, falls for some culinary delight, this time a cheesy one. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEXANDER SOBOLLA
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VIKTUALIENMARKT literally means victuals market, which, as the name gives away, is a food market. The market is relatively small, and can easily be walked around in a few minutes. Yet, few trips to this market are so short-lived, as even my trip proved, as it is hard not to get tempted by the many gorgeous wares on offer. From cheese, to
honey, meats, tea, fruit and vegetables, to vegan produce and freshly squeezed juices, sandwiches and coffee, fresh flowers and handmade goods, and, of course, beer. This market is popular among tourists, but it is also a regular spot for the locals, who have their favourite go-to greengrocer, cheesemonger, and florist.
Fruit and vegetables Whether it’s a few potatoes, carrots and tomatoes you want, or something more exotic like passion fruit, black tomatoes or edible flowers, Viktualienmarkt has them all. There are quite a few fruit and vegetable stands dotted around the market, all with their wares beautifully displayed. Look out for the nut bar, where you can buy walnuts, hazelnuts, brazil nuts, the list goes on. The apple stands are particularly attractive, beautifully arranged in their wooden boxes and with a description of the taste of each underneath. If you’re looking for something particularly Bavarian, try the radishes. Juicy and succulent, I really have never tasted better radishes.
Say cheese There are a number of cheese stands dotted over the market. It’s an experience just to walk around these stalls, looking at the marvellous types of cheeses and even getting the opportunity to sample them. We couldn’t resist and fell for a cheese that might not perhaps rank high on the beauty scale — each one is a different, uneven shape — but definitely scores high in taste and texture. A softer cheese, for which you have to peel off the outer rind, scamorza, of yellowy colour and rich taste. This Italian cheese is delicious on bread, but we discovered it also melts beautifully, and made a succulent addition to a risotto we made; mixing some of it into the risotto mixture as we cooked, and sprinkling some more on the finished meal.
When it’s spring again One of the highlights of Viktualienmarkt are the beautiful flower stalls that populate it. Spring is clearly in season as the stands are bursting with brightly coloured tulips, pastel-coloured carnations, sunny gerberas, and cheerful anemones. The friendly staff are happy to explain to me a bit about the history of this 30-year old family-run stall. The stall just opposite, in fact, belongs to relatives. The flowers are bought from a special market. The flowers are brought in from Holland, and sold by a Dutch seller who comes over to sell. The flowers on sale, are, naturally, seasonal and spring is the season for tulips. Once summer comes around there will be sunflowers, for instance. Oviodo, the cheerful employee from Romania, is happy to pose for photos and, equally so, to give me a beautiful pink rose before I leave.
Asparagus as you can get The season of asparagus is about to begin. A lady peeling asparagus, or spargel, is one of the first sights that catches my eyes as I enter the market. I approach her stand and a customer who has happily bought some tells me that the season is beginning, but slowly. He’s very pleased that he’s managed to get hold of some so early in the season and at such a good price. As the season develops, the vegetable will become more profusely available both in the markets as well as in the restaurants who come up with clever ways of cooking this versatile vegetable.
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Vegan oasis You can buy fish and meat (look out for the string of butcher shops lined up just opposite the market area) at Viktualienmarkt, but one of my highlights here is the little vegan shop — Gut zum leben — popular among many more than just the vegans. Rows upon rows of food jars, stacks of various types of vegetables, fresh brown loaves, as well as refrigerated vegan sausages and spreads populate this quaint store. As one cheery member of staff shares with me, this shop proudly sells its own products; such as its star-good the bärlauch, in various flavours. Literally translated, this is bear garlic, and is made into various flavours, from beetroot, to herbs and yes, more garlic.
Beer glorious beer Who can talk about Bavaria without talking about its beer? An attraction for both tourists and locals alike is the small beer garden situated in the middle of the market. On sunny days, it is practically impossible to get a table here. The
sweet thing about all beer gardens is that you can
take your own food with you, so long as you buy drinks. A sign at the cash desk, reads Heute im Ausschank: Hofbrau. This literally means, today at the bar: Hofbrau. This is because the beer on tap changes regularly and so you can easily see
what’s available from the sign.
Mushroom Risotto YOU NEED
METHOD
50g dried porcini mushrooms
300g risotto rice, such as arborio
1 vegetable stock cube
1 x 175ml glass white wine
2 tbsp. olive oil
25g butter
1 onion, finely chopped
handful parsley
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
leaves, chopped
250g pack chestnut mushroom, sliced and washed
50g parmesan cheese – we used scamorza
Put the dried mushrooms into a large bowl and pour over 1 litre of boiling water. Soak for 20 mins, then drain into a bowl, discarding the last few tbsp. of liquid left in the bowl. Crumble the stock cube into the mushroom liquid, then squeeze the mushrooms gently to remove any liquid. Chop the mushrooms. Heat the oil in a shallow saucepan or deep frying pan over a medium flame. Add the onions and garlic, then fry for about 5 mins until soft. Stir in the fresh and dried mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and continue to cook for 8 mins until the fresh mushrooms have softened. Tip the rice into the pan and cook for 1 min. Pour over the wine and let it bubble to nothing so the alcohol evaporates. Keep the pan over a medium heat and pour in a quarter of the mushroom stock. Simmer the rice, stirring often, until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Add about the same amount of stock again and continue to simmer and stir — it should start to become creamy, plump and tender. By the time the final quarter of stock is added, the rice should be almost cooked.
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Continue stirring until the rice is cooked. If the rice is still undercooked, add a splash of water. Take the pan off the heat, add the butter and scatter over half the cheese and the parsley. Cover and leave for a few mins so that the rice can take up any excess liquid as it cools a bit. Give the risotto a final stir, spoon into bowls and scatter with the remaining cheese and parsley. Recipe from BBC Good Food magazine, October 2006
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LOCAL
The Enigma of the Swordfish
Victor Paul Borg charting some of the maritime history of fishing of the famous white meat of the sea: swordfish, in Malta, and peeks a little into its future. FEW non-fishermen are aware that swordfishes live and spawn so close to shore, merely half an hour’s journey on fishing launch due north, close enough to make out the glint of cars crawling ashore. With their large eyes and their uncannily ducky-birdy mouth, and their beaky swordlike protrusion that is flipped and thrashed into shoals of fish during foraging attacks, swordfishes are large fish that are popularly thought to be enigmatic fishes of the deep (in reality they forage close to the water surfaces but also descend to relatively deep waters as they range about). The sea at the swordfish fishing range of the small-scale Maltese fishers is less than 100 metres deep, the water coloured a dark
milky blue (unlike the opaque metallic-blue of deeper waters). The fishing gear consists of hooks baited with whole mackerel fixed to surface longlines — technical speak for a floating fishing line with hooks dangling down into the water profile at regular intervals — the typical fishermen deploy more than a hundred hooks in fishing lines a few kilometres long (hence the moniker ‘longline’). Over the summers, it would be accurate to say that the sea to the northern span of Malta would be lined up with floating longlines of swordfish fishers. Fishermen with larger launches venture further away from land to fish for swordfishes and tuna simultaneously, using longer longlines stretching over many miles. These large fishers are not as common
as they used to be — they now primarily target tuna — if only because the catches of swordfishes have been diminishing for the past twenty years. Swordfish used to be an egalitarian fish a generation ago. It was ubiquitous in the summers particularly, when it was specifically targeted by a large number of longline fishers: an inexpensive and heartily meaty fish that hardly has few bones to contend with. Landings of swordfishes were dramatic and impressive; the fishes caught were large individuals two or three metres long that required two men to haul them onto land. Its popularity led to its downfall: overfishing led to diminishing catches, the
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fishes caught were getting ever smaller, and the price rose to the point where the fish was no longer affordable to the proletariat on a regular basis. It’s become a fish of the occasion, especially since its meatiness makes it difficult to cook right (its flesh can very easily be dried out and toughened by overcooking) – there are fishes with more delicate white meat for the same or lower price (such as farmed sea bass and sea bream). A report by the International Commission for the Conservation of the Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT, the body tasked with regulating the fisheries of pelagic fishes such as tuna and swordfish) last year sounded the
alarm: seventy percent of the swordfishes being caught in the Mediterranean were juveniles, the total amount of catches had plummeted by around fifty percent, and the spawning biomass of the species was eighty-eight percent lower than the level considered safe to maintain the current rate of fishing. The ICCAT had to act, and it announced a recovery plan last November that had a raft of measures and goals, including adjustments to the fishing gear to reduce catches of juveniles, and the gradual reduction of current catch-levels by 15 percent in the next five years.. This will have an impact on the Maltese fishery of swordfishes, which was already
in decline, the fishermen will now have to contend with greater oversight and lower quotas. The price may be affected, although I think that given that the catches were already in decline and price had stabilized at a relatively-high rate (around €12 plus per kilogram during peak catch season) any further price rises are likely to be marginal. Whatever the price, it’s worth splurging out for swordfish occasionally during its season. Cooked sensitively, swordfish has a tender consistency and textured tastes, the tastes of the sea and the Mediterranean. It’s at its best either grilled in Mediterranean herbs or simmered in tomatoes and capers and herbs – the two recipes outlined below.
Grilled swordfish steaks YOU NEED Four steaks of around 250 grams each, 2cm thick
1 tablespoon finely chopped mint
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ tablespoon finely chopped marjoram
Three cloves garlic, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons lemon juice 300g risotto rice, such as arborio
METHOD Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Place the steaks of swordfish on tinfoil in an oven dish and pour and evenly spread half of the mixture on top. Put the dish under the oven grill for five minutes. Turn over the steaks and spread the remaining mixture on top, then grill for around another five minutes.
Swordfish in tomato and caper sauce YOU NEED Four steaks of around 250 grams each, 2cm thick Four cloves garlic, sliced 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 teaspoon finely chopped marjoram 1 can pulped tomatoes
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½ cup white wine 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons capers
METHOD Fry the swordfish in olive oil on medium heat for a minute on each side, then put aside. In the same frying pan lightly fry the garlic for a minute, then add the remaining ingredients and put the swordfish steaks on top. Bring to boil, then reduce heat, cover pan, and let simmer for around ten minutes until cooked through. Uncover and serve (if the sauce would be watery, remove the swordfish steaks to avert drying out and the let the sauce bubble in uncovered lid until it reduces down to desired consistency).
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LOCAL
The Narrow Vegan Gate Anna Maria Galea explores the vegan and vegetarian options within the capital city’s walls. What did she find?
WHEN it comes to vegan and vegetarian options in Malta, we haven’t exactly had what one would call a blazing track record despite a rich agricultural history. Meat has traditionally been held to be vital towards maintaining a good level of health, however, the fact that it was costly and beyond the daily budget of many Maltese families gave rise to a number of recipes which revolved around cheese and vegetables, produced and grown in one’s own backyard at little cost. Of course, it wasn’t just a matter of money which saw many people subsisting on vegetablerich soups such as ‘minestra’ or ‘kuksu’ come rain or shine, but the fact that traditional, Catholic, Malta had strict rules when it came to eating meat on Wednesdays, Fridays and even Saturdays; which meant that vegetables were integral to the Maltese diet. It was not only meat which could not be eaten on the aforementioned hallowed days, but
milk-based products were abstained from too unless one was ill and needed extra nourishment. Indeed, it was this belief that dairy and meat products gave people added strength to combat illness which led doctors to advise Bishop Francesco Saverio Caruana to give permission to the Maltese to eat meat on days of abstinence in the time of cholera. Those days are thankfully far behind us, and although it was often a challenge finding a decent salad or vegetarian option as late as five years ago, the situation has certainly improved today. The three places featured below have not only been highly instrumental in helping to turn the tide and giving those who prefer a light, meatless meal hope, but what’s more, they all share the distinguishing feature of being located in our beautiful capital:
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Soul Food, Merchant’s Street: Valletta hasn’t always been a haven for foodies, green or otherwise, however, Italian-run ‘Soul Food’ has really been something of a game changer thanks to its philosophy centred on the use of natural products rather than artificial alternatives. At ‘Soul Food’, all dishes are made completely from scratch and in fact, even people with celiac disease and food allergies are catered for. The main idea behind Soul Food’s cuisine is to combine different Italian regional foods with vegan and vegetarian alternatives in a meeting of body and soul. Whether you’re after a soy cappuccino, wonderful homemade potato gnocchi with pumpkin or an Ayurvedic dish, ‘Soul Food’ really has it all. The in-house made vegan puddings and cakes are pretty much to die for too.
No. 43, Merchant’s Street: Blink for a moment, and you’ll miss it, No. 43 might not be very big, but it certainly is mighty in making culinary waves for those who want a lighter lunch in the capital. Situated in a particularly convenient people-watching spot in Merchant’s Street, No. 43 offers the option of enjoying lunch in the open air or by its small but stylish bar. Whether you’re looking for superfood jars, soya, coconut milk or a salad, this food is anything but standard. In addition to this, the menu changes every day according to what is in season which means that you could be enjoying a refreshing melon and cucumber salad one day and a pumpkin soup the next. Dedicated to being different in all the best ways possible, No. 43’s sunny owner is dedicated to bringing new and exciting twists to veggie staples such as quinoa; and although the combinations can sometimes seem unusual they always work. If you want to visit No. 43, make sure to go there for lunch as it is not open in the evenings.
The Grassy Hopper, Valletta and Gzira:
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One of the first restaurants to get on the vegetarian/ vegan train, ‘The Grassy Hopper’ has become something of an institution. With its slogan ‘Eat Better, Feel Better’ and its focus on quality and choice, Grassy Hopper fans can enjoy anything from homemade gluten-free quesadillas with roasted chickpeas, avocado, cherry tomatoes, coriander, chili and lime to in-house made veggie burgers which pack a punch. If you’re feeling a bit more traditional you can also opt for buckwheat with a variety of different toppings or sample one of their many combinations of energy balls. In keeping with their ethos of providing a holistic lifestyle for their clients, ‘The Grassy Hopper’ also organises a number of workshops and events which focus on the union of mind and body. These events go beyond the culinary, often involving music as well as yoga, meditation and the art of relaxation.
Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555
facebook.com/attardcofood www.attardcofood.com
LOCAL
Finding Ftajjar Anna Maria Galea quest to find, qualify and chronicle the ftira in the Maltese archipelago. THERE are few things which define the Maltese more than our bread. So-adored is this national staple that it has even permeated our language in expressions such as “ma fihx hobz” (a phrase used to indicate that a person isn’t of substance), or the widely used “tilef hobzu” (a phrase to denote that someone has lost their job). Indeed, it would seem that, culturally, bread is synonymous with all that is right in the world. While there are many types of Maltese bread, none is more revered than the ftira which refers to the flat, sourdough-tasting bread used in order to make the ubiquitous hobz bi-zejt, literally ‘bread with oil’. Despite its plain sounding name, hobz biz-zejt is usually a concoction of fresh tomatoes, tomato concentrate, oil, tuna and capers which most people get a hankering for in the summer months while they’re sitting by the sea. However, in Gozo, the concept of the ftira has a different meaning. Made using bread dough and topped with a variety of ingredients, often including thin potato slices, sardines, or soft sheep’s milk cheeselets, this delicious one dish meal is a hearty cousin of the Italian pizza. It is interesting to note that, according to Professor Carmel Cassar, the ftira traditionally incorporated different toppings from the beginning of its inception, with the bread base serving as a plate
“Despite its plain sounding name, hobz biz-zejt is usually a concoction of fresh tomatoes, tomato concentrate, oil, tuna, and capers which most people get a hankering for in the summer months while they’re sitting by the sea.”
much in the custom of many Northern African and the Middle East cuisines. However, it would also appear that while Gozo continued to utilise ftajjar in much the same vein, this custom died out on Maltese shores until the ftira came to be used as one would any other type of bread. Hot on the ftira trail, we visited four places each renowned for their take on the open ftira and just to keep things interesting, we included ftajjar from both Malta as well as Gozo. Here’s what you need to know about all four:
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Nadur, Gozo Maxokk
Mekren
WHILE both bakeries are situated in Gozo and more happily for everyone can both be found a few streets from each other, frequent ftira eaters will firmly pledge their allegiance to one camp over the other. Although both bakeries fall under the same category, they have very particular ways of making you heart sing. While neither place offers people the opportunity to dine in, this doesn’t stop long queues snaking out of their respective doors.
same, ftira connoisseurs will all agree that the Maxokk ftajjar are characteristically more bread-like in texture. If you want to go really authentic, plump for the Maxokk Special which is a wonderful combination of Maltese sausage, potatoes, garlic, tomatoes and fennel.
Named after the family nickname, you have to take a few twists and turns to arrive at Maxokk’s fabled doors. You’re usually alerted to the fact that you’ve arrived by the amount of people pacing up and down the narrow street, clearly awaiting their turn for a few minutes in foodie Nirvana. After pulling back the green string curtains so popular in Gozitan households, you will be able to choose whether you want to order a pizza or a proper ftira. While to the untrained eye they might look the
with the wood-burning oven while you wait. Staying true to its roots Gozitan cuisine goodness, the tuna ftira is a popular choice here and a must for anyone who doesn’t have to watch his blood pressure. Another coveted recipe which used to be a staple of many Gozitan households is the cheeselet ftira which the Mekren bakers make half closed with only the centre showing. Comprised of a mixture of cheese and eggs, Mekren gives you the opportunity to order it with or without potatoes on top.
Slightly easier to find than Maxokk, Mekren lets you get right into the thick of things by allowing you to get up close and personal
Qormi, Malta Emanuel’s Bakery
LONG considered to be the foremost Maltese bread producer, the village of Qormi has a long and illustrious bread history. Sorenowned are the Qormin for their dough-based contribution to society that it is little wonder two of the best places to find ftajjar are here.
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Despite the fact that many Maltese people like to end their Gozitan sojourn with a trip to the aforementioned Maxokk and Mekren, very few Maltese people have been able to mimic their success. Emanuel’s Bakery, however, is one of those places. Located on the outskirts of Qormi, you might blink and miss it if you don’t know what you’re looking for. Emanuel’s offers six permanent ftira choices and has monthly specials which will have you salivating
Il-Forn tal-Għawdxi
at the mere thought of them. What’s more, if you’re feeling extra gluttonous, you can opt to have your ftira with a cheesy crust. Following the Gozitan tradition of planting potatoes on pizzas, many Gozitans have found a home away from home in Il-Forn tal-Ghawdxi in Qormi. Offering contemporary twists such as adding mozzarella to the original cheeselet ftira and adding rabbit to the list of ftira ingredients, Il-Forn tal-Ghawdxi might not be the most conventional of ftira hotspots but still makes for a pretty tasty treat. In addition to this, you won’t even have to queue outside for your ftira fix as free delivery is offered to Qormi, Zebbug, Siggiewi and Hamrun while delivery to other localities is offered for a very small additional fee.
Authentic Italian • Handmade • Woodfired Stoned Baked
Exclusively at
Trade enquiries: CKV Marketing Ltd. T: 2144 5023 M: 9949 3884 E: ckv@maltanet.net
FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
PURE
Raw Cacao, Cocoa & Cacao Butter Trevor Diacono teaches us the difference between cacao and cocoa, and we’re passing it on to you. DESPITE coming from the same plant, cacao and cocoa are two very different things. Cacao is the pure form of chocolate that comes very close to the raw and natural state in which it is picked. Cocoa refers to the powder that is commonly seen in supermarkets for cooking and hot chocolates. Cocoa powder is made by applying high heat to raw cacao, which destroys some of the beneficial nutrients it contains. Also, most of conventional cocoa is mixed with refined sugars, synthetic preservatives and dairy fats. When the cacao beans are released from their pods, they are sometimes blended into cacao butter. Cacao butter contains the fatty part of the cacao fruit and is white in colour. The remainder of the fruit is used to make raw cacao powder. It is also possible to buy cacao nibs, which are cacao beans that have been chopped into smaller pieces. These are like chocolate chips although much more intense and bitter in flavour. Here are 2 of my most easy yet exquisite recipes that has Raw Cacao as a main ingredient.
We are Trevor and Debbie, the duo behind Pure. As a couple, we constantly motivate each other at being better versions of ourselves and we hope that through our recipes, workouts and thoughts for a healthy lifestyle we will motivate you too.
Raw Cacao is a great source for magnesium, antioxidants, vitamins, essential fats, protein and fibre. It has been linked to several health benefits: 1
It can lower blood pressure & improve circulation
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It can promote cardiovascular function & health.
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It can neutralise free radicals from sun exposure, pollution, cigarette smoking, etc.
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It can improve digestion.
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It can enhance physical and mental well-being. For example, theobromine helps to stimulate the central nervous system, relax smooth muscles, and dilate blood vessels, giving the body a boost of energy.
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FLAVOUR OF THE MONTH
Raw Chocolate Mousse YOU NEED 1 ripe avocado 2 tablespoons of raw cacao powder 1/2 vanilla pod (or 1/2 teaspoon of pure extract) 2 tablespoons Agave nectar (or choose any other sweeter, except for refined sugar) 1/2 cup of drinking water
METHOD 1. Blend all the above together in a food processor or powerful blend until smooth. 2. Serve immediately, or freeze for a frozen pudding 3. Garnish with chopped almonds, coconut flakes, berries or whatever natural product works for you. 4. Enjoy.
Raw Chocolate Chia Energy Bars YOU NEED 1.5 cups pitted dates 1/3 cup of raw cocoa powder 1/3 cup of chia seeds 1/2 vanilla pod (or 1/2 teaspoon of pure extract) 1/2 vanilla pod (or 1/2 teaspoon of pure extract) 1.5 cups of raw almonds (always soak your nuts for 8 hours and then clean them well before using) 2 tablespoons agave nectar (or choose any other natural sweeter, except for refined sugar) Oat flour for dusting if necessary
METHOD
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1. Place dates in a food processor and process until it turns into a smooth thick paste. Add the rest of the above and pulse until all is combined and until it holds together when pressed. 2. Pour out the mixture onto a piece of grease proof paper. Cover with another sheet of grease proof paper and roll it out
into a 2cm thick rectangle using a rolling pin. Wrap tightly and leave it rest in the fridge for 4-6 hours or overnight. 3. Cut into 8 bars. Store by wrapping the individual bars in grease-proof paper and putting them in a container in the refrigerator.
Umbria beer by tradition When the flavors of Umbria are treated with care and intelligent originality, the result is a unique and sophisticated beer. Special malts, stringently selected grains and legumes, and artisanal production. This is beer from Mastri Birrai Umbri.
Exclusively at
RECIPE
Fruits, Nuts & Seeds A handful of nut, seed and fruit products can yield this summer fruity smoothie bowl and this excellently high-in-protein seed bread. Worth every taste. SHOT AT PURE LIVING, SLIEMA
Summer Smoothie Bowl A fresh tasty way to kick off your day
YOU NEED 34
METHOD
Strawberry - 300g
Banana - 1
Raw cashew - 100g
Maca powder - 15g
Almond milk - 150ml
Pomegrante - 1/4
Coconut - 30g
Poppy seeds - 15g
Blend strawberry, raw cashew, almond milk, coconut, banana and maca powder, and set in bowl. Garnish it with strawberry, coconut, banana, pomegrante and poppy seeds. Enjoy!
Raw cashew Strawberry
Coconut Almond milk
Banana Maca powder
Poppy seeds
Pomegrante 35
RECIPE
High Protein Seed Bread A healthy high protein filling alternative to your flour bread
YOU NEED Salt - 2 teaspoons Coconut oil - 500ml Water - 2 cups Chia seed - 2 cups Sunflower seeds - 2 cups Gluten free oats - 3 cups Flax seed - 1/2 cup Raw almonds - 1 cup
METHOD Mix all the dry ingredients then place in the wet. Mix till even. Place in a loaf dish and leave rest for 12hrs. Bake for 50 mins at 200 degrees, flipping half way.
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Salt Coconut Oil
Water Chia Seed
Sunflower Seeds
Gluten free oats
Flax seed
Raw almonds
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LOCAL
Fish in our Future Maltese chefs and fish4tomorrow discuss the sustainability and future of fish for us, and for our children, by talking about the fish we eat today.
ON FRIDAY 10th March fish4tomorrow held their seventh edition of From Our Sea. The concept behind the From Our Sea series is to familiarise people with seafood they might not otherwise be used to seeing on their plates. These one-off events are hosted at different venues with some of Malta’s best chefs and are a celebration of seafood which is local, seasonal and recommended as environmentally sustainable by fish4tomorrow. The seventh edition involved an enticing collaboration between fish4tomorrow and two London-based Maltese chefs David Darmanin and Nicole Pisani. David Darmanin chose Malta and
fish4tomorrow to kick start his PFGT World Tour with the help Nicole Pisani who has made a name for herself working for top establishments such as Yotam Ottolenghi’s Nopi in Soho and, more recently, taking charge of the kitchen at Grayhurst Primary School. Camarata on Merchant Street in Valletta would host the event, making it the first ever From Our Sea pop-up dining experience. Camarata opened its doors early on a sunny Friday afternoon as the first batch of guests opted for a leisurely lunch which consisted of a slightly smaller version of the evening menu which was then to be served to the crowd at the sold-out event
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LOCAL
later that day. The chefs spent the previous day running from one supplier to the next to ensure that the event was not only
a celebration of local seafood but also of local produce which is abundant at that time of year. Atlantic bonito (plamtu) was served with broad beans, gbejna, freshly foraged herbs, and globe artichokes which were served stuffed with mackerel and anchovy. The other dishes included grilled sardines in agrodolce, a bogue and pea lasagne, an arborio ‘ghiotta’ made with comber (serran) and wild fennel, and horse mackerel (sawrell) served with wild garlic and tamarind. Two types of kannoli from Baked were served for dessert; one with lemon curd, dark chocolate and pistachios and the other with strawberry curd, white chocolate, and candied orange. From Our Sea events usually serve as a new experience to both the patrons as well as the chefs or restaurant owners. Diners get
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to enjoy and experience fish which they do not often eat while the chefs and restaurateurs are given the opportunity to see that serving mackerel or bogue can be just as welcomed by their clientele as any steak of salmon or swordfish.
The dough is a mixture of the best durum wheat flour, very high protein value, and the local water. Oven drying times can vary between 18 and 48 hours in thermostatic ovens and for some past shapes it can take up to two days, just so that we can obtain the right porosity to better absorb sauces and condiments together with the typical consistency that gives our pasta an unmistakable aroma and taste.
The craftsmanship that goes into Giuseppe Afeltra's pasta follows the teachings of ancient traditions, using only traditional bronze processing and extruding machines (dies), which work the dough in the same slow and patient way handed down to us by the pasta masters of Gragnano.
SINCE 1895 41
LOCAL
Hot Coals; Smoked Meats To loosely define barbecue as meat cooked with indirect heat would be both straightforward and, yet, sterile. Pictures help, and remind us why barbecuing is so popular in Malta. It might not be Tennessee, but we do okay. Sweet, smokey, wet, or dry; ribs, sausage, or brisket; pickles, mustard, or slaw: the anatomy of barbecue is flexible, to say the least. SHOT AT FAT LOUIE’S, PACEVILLE
Pro-bone-o tip Good ribs deserve a good smoking, with a lovely, pink smoke ring. What most people don’t know is
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that ribs can be overcooked: meat falling off the bone is a no-no, you want to be able to pick up a rack of ribs with your hand and eat it, to find a bit of bite in there. After all, if you want it to fall off the bone, just remove the bone before you cook it.
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LOCAL
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The sides A cookbook with Soho, London’s little take on Americana, and a tray with sides of slaw & sauce; some smoked local flavour of sausage too. These are all important, but there’s also a little room on the tray for something bigger… meatier.
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LOCAL
A Cut Above the Rest And here’s the Editor’s picks on how to best, in his humble opinion, celebrate the following cuts of beef. Nothing super fancy, but just enough to convince your friends you wouldn’t settle for a fried boot. PHOTOS BY JEAN MARC ZERAFA, SHOT AT BRASS & KNUCKLE, NAXXAR
Aberdeen Angus tomahawk Season steaks generously with salt (and pepper as desired). Get the top, bottom and all the sides. Use a generous amount of salt as this is a thick steak. Sear the steak for around 5 minutes on each side, keep it as far from the heat source as your grill will allow. You’ll know the steak is ready to flip when it releases easily from the grill. Cover in foil and let it rest for 10-15 minutes before slicing.
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Fresh Scottish lamb Leave the BBQ closed for 10-15 minutes before grilling. Add the lamb to the grill and grill over high heat with the lid open. If you get any flareups, move the lamb to a cooler part of the grill until the flames die down. After about 4 minutes, turn the lamb over and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes. As always, this varies based on the temperature outside, the temp and thickness of the meat and the grill temperature. Remove the meat from the grill, cover and let it rest for 5 minutes.
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LOCAL
Japanese Wagyu Kobe beef tenderloin Avoid under cooking. Heat should penetrate through all marbling seams of the Wagyu steak for it to reach the optimum flavour point. It is best to have the BBQ on for a bit before adding the meat. Sear both sides for around 2 minutes each. Leave to stand for 5 minutes. The crust should transform into a reddish-brown beauty.
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Aberdeen Angus dry aged rib-eye Season both sides of the rib-eye with salt and pepper. Salting the meat creates a crust that prevents the steak from losing too much liquid while at the same time flavouring it. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes each side. Remove the meat from the BBQ and let it stand for 10 minutes. Letting the meat stand also allows the meat’s juices to collect.
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GADGETS
The hot stuff If you can stand the heat, get in the kitchen.
COOL AS ICE Fashioned by Rudolfo Dordoni, it’s an ice bucket that separates the ice from their dissolved counterparts, ensuring the water doesn’t speed up the rest of your supply’s eventual defrosting.
THE NUNI TOASTER The Nuni Tortilla Toaster automatically heats both sides of the flat bread. It can heat tortillas up to six inches in diameter, with a rotating design that slightly tilts out the flatbread for easy retrieval.
DONE IN 60 SECONDS Uuni’s wood-fired ovens allows you to enjoy genuine Italian-style pizzas at a fraction of the cost. With the currentgeneration Uuni 3 now boasting even more efficient function.
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NESTING KNIVES Possibly one of the most unique knife set designs ever made. Designed by Mia Schmallenbach for Deglon, the Deglon Meeting Knife Set consists of four knives that can nest into each other’s bodies and occupy the space of just a single block when put away.
THE SOUND OF COFFEE Designed by UK-based Josh Renouf, the Barisieur Alarm Clock, literally, combines a digital table clock with a coffee maker, making for a perfect morning bedside companion.
ZIP-EAT
There are plenty of tools out there, however, all look like actual kitchen tools, which makes them useful, but not a lot of fun. That’s not the case with Ototo’s Zip-Eat.
BACON EXPRESS That’s right, Nostalgia Electrics Bacon Express cooks nothing but bacon. It’s super compact, with a narrow and upright profile that allows it to take up very little space.
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FURNITURE
Sticks of Furniture Although, we admit, they’re really pretty sticks of furniture.
WEWOOD X2 SMART SHELF FLOAT SHELF The Float Shelf is a piece of board that attaches to the iMac’s stand, giving Apple’s all-in-one PC a handy, off-the-desk storage unit around back.
SHAPE SHIFTER
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Ozzio Newood does its thing, with the clever mechanism allowing it to transform from a coffee table to a 10-person dining table with as much flair as a shape-shifting Transformer.
It consists of two intersecting bookshelves of the exact same size, allowing you to simply pull the other one to the double your storage facility.
VW CAMPER BED We guess, you can think of the Circu Bun Van Bed as an adult version of those race car beds for children. Well, as adult as anyone who would willingly put a bed like that in their bedroom would be anyway.
MODPOOL It’s not the first pool we’ve seen to be made from repurposed shipping containers. The Modpool, however, is nice enough to complement even the most stylish homes, ensuring your backyard won’t end up looking like a miniature shipping dock.
LETTO DAYBED Designed by Gerd Couckhuyt for MiaCara, Letto dayBed has a body crafted in powder-coated aluminium that is virtually indestructible, with raised side panels to give your dog angled surfaces to lean on.
CHILL WITH SOBRO Drinking a cold beer while watching TV in the living room is, pretty much, a quintessential nightly ritual for a lot of folks. Problem is, you don’t keep the beer in the living room, so you’ll have to get up and walk over to the kitchen after every serving. Sobro wants to change that.
ZEROBODY A collaboration between Italian designer Christiano Mino, spa designers Starpool, and brain wellness company Neocogita, the Zerobody is a bed that’s designed to make you feel like you’re floating in a tank.
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COOKING
Sea bass Sensation This month, Park Towers Supermarkets in collaboration with Foodist and chef Ivan Miller featured the 10th free cooking class at the St Venera outlet’s live kitchen. On the menu were a tasty plate of Sea bass sashimi and pan roasted Sea bass with fresh water crest pesto. PHOTOS BY CHRIS SANT FOURNIER
Sea bass sashimi
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Pan roasted Sea bass with fresh watercress pesto
See bass is an excellent summer dish, versatile and mild in flavour, this shiny, white-fleshed fish was the star of the tenth cooking class. Students that attended this session are now able to enjoy these delicious sea bass recipes with family and friends this summer.
1 whole fish approx. 1kg serves 2 persons Filleted and deboned Score the skin and season with salt and pepper Pan roast on a non-stick pan with a drizzle of olive oil for approx. 8/10 mins on medium heat
Sea bass sashimi
FOR THE PESTO 200 grams’ watercress
250g deboned and filleted Sea bass Cut into thick pieces and charred on the skin side.
50g pine nuts 2 cloves of garlic
FOR THE DRESSING
Juice of 1 lime
2 lime juices
100ml extra virgin oil
1/2 red chilli
75g grated Parmesan
2 tsp castor sugar
Fresh chilli (optional)
1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger
Salt and pepper to your liking
Chopped coriander
Add all ingredients in a food blender. Blend until paste. Just drizzle on top of the fish and leave a few watercress leaves for garnish.
Salt and white pepper for seasoning
NEXT Pan roasted Sea bass
Our resident chef Ivan Miller will be teaching you how to cook a delicious dish. Seating is on a first come basis and can be booked by calling Christine on 2737 8520 or email christine@myparktowers.com by July 25.
Cooking Class
27 JULY
Park Towers Supemarket Psaila Str, Santa Venera
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5:30PM
FOODIST OUTLETS
Eat, drink and pick up a copy of Foodist magazine from these outlets.
ELECTRO LOBSTER PROJECT A GREEN MENU
Giacomo’s Café Bistro, set in the heart of Sliema’s shopping district, brings together an interesting fusion of fresh Mediterranean food, international wines and signature drinks. With a flair for green living, Giacomo’s specialises in vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Giacomo’s Café Bistro, The Strand, Sliema. Tel: 2713 7407.
Lobster is the specialty at Electro Lobster Project in Balluta Buildings, Sliema. The rest of the menu is classic Sicilian, with lots of fresh fish, quality meats, vegetarian and vegan options. Fresh smoothies and juices, a large selection of teas from RARE Tea Company, specialty coffees and daily changing desserts top the list of delights.
FOOD FOR YOUR MOOD
Café Jubilee is the place to eat and drink whatever the time of day and the mood you’re in. Gzira outlet is now offering takeaway delivery service also in the evenings from 6pm till 11pm, available in the localities of Gzira and surrounding areas.
A NATURAL APPROACH
At The Deli, ingredients are everything. The Deli stands behind sustainable and organic suppliers who are passionate about the quality of their products. The Deli grows its own organic ingredients at The Ladybird Farm in Dingli. Every morning fresh produce is delivered to the store to ensure the freshest of food.
A MATCH IN DELICIOUSNESS
Talbot & Bons offers a unique ambience in the Central part of Malta, at the Malta International Airport, SkyParks Business Centre. The wide variety of craft Italian beers, South Tyrol cider, organic soft drinks and juices as well as a varied food menu including salads, platters and their very well known burgers make this place ideal for business lunches, meeting friends as well as a relaxed dinner with your loved one!
COOKED WITH PRIDE
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The Pulled Meat Company serves only the best slow cooked soul food from the heart of Valletta. By soul food we mean food cooked with pride, using nothing but the best fresh ingredients. Our menu will be updated daily with a variety of crunchy ftajjar, nutritious soups and fresh salads. Follow us on Facebook for updates where we would love to hear your feedback.
CHEERS TO FOOD AND WINE
Good wine deserves good food and at Sistina Wine & Co. you will find an extensive wine selection to pair with a small but diverse menu offering flavours from around the globe. Sistina Wine & Co. is now also offering a special lunch menu with a difference. For more information visit www.sistinawineco.com.
BEAN THERE
CHEERS TO A GREAT EXPERIENCE
The Master Cellar is determined to offer a bespoke and friendly experience within the pleasant interiors of their outlet, promising its patrons that feel good factor, whether buying a premium wine or a single malt, for the start to a great moment.
REACH FOR THIS SHORE
Shoreditch Bar & Kitchen is situated in the heart of the Maltese nightlife. Shoreditch is the ideal place to have a great meal and enjoy a pint of lager.
Voted best coffee shop chain in Southern Europe at the Allegra European coffee awards, Costa Coffee is now offering its freshly ground Mocha Italia coffee in two two new, welcoming stores in Marsaxlokk and St Julian’s. Follow Costa Coffee on Facebook and Instagram for updates.
MY WAY
Serving the best of New York Cities most recognised eats, without having to fly across the Atlantic! Pizza, burger, hot dogs and shakes, all made from scratch with exclusively procured ingredients. New York Best offers a cool alternative vibe and recently added cheeky cocktail menu! Four locations to choose from. Follow us on Facebook.
DAY AND NIGHT EXPERIENCE
C&S Wine Café is a chic café by day and wine bar by night. They also offer a tasty selection of healthy dishes and freshly made salads and their signature house specials and platters. Now open in Portomaso, the Malta Intl. Airport and the Vivaldi Hotel in St Julians.
HEALTHY LIFE
Pure brings you delicious and healthy raw cold pressed juices, super food smoothies, gluten and lactose free desserts, home made nut milks and other healthy foods. Pure also specialises in juice cleanses. Pure Living, Windsor Street, Sliema.
THE ART OF FINE DINING
Perched on Mdina’s centuries-old bastions, within the Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux, awarded the runner-up for the best boutique dining hotel in the world, the de Mondion offers a unique fine dining experience, enhanced by truly spectacular panoramic views, charming features and elegant surroundings. For bookings call 2145 0560 or e-mail info@xarapalace.com.mt. For more information visit www.xarapalace.com.mt.
GET YOUR FREE COPY Available from all Park Towers Supermarkets check-out points.
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FAVOURITES
SPRITZ UP YOUR SUMMER WITH APEROL SPRITZ
Aperol first appeared on the Italian scene in 1919, and it wasn’t long before it took the country by storm. It’s lighter in body, flavour and alcoholic content than other bitters, and is the perfect introduction to the Italian aperitivo. This lively drink exudes the Italian lifestyle, from the aperitif hour to an enjoyable evening dining al fresco in the piazza. The unique Aperol taste is deliciously Italian but with a totally international appeal, especially thanks to the Aperol Spritz, which is becoming a cult aperitif globally. As the summer months set in, it’s the perfect time to get to know Aperol Spritz a little better. The evenings are longer and the days lighter, which means that there’s more time for fun and friends after work. It’s time to celebrate by getting a crowd together to sip on some Spritz or arrange a last minute mid-week get together to catch up over some zesty orange bubbles.
Aperol Spritz It’s very easy to make and is a delicious twist on Prosecco. The recipe is as simple as 3,2,1. Just follow these simple instructions.
WHAT YOU NEED 3 parts Prosecco 2 parts Aperol 1 part soda
METHOD Fill a large goblet with ice cubes, add a slice of orange, pour in Prosecco, then Aperol in circular motion, and finish with a splash of soda.
Over ice and a slice of orange
San Michel, one of Malta’s leading table water brands, has recently extended the range of bottle sizes available through the launch of a new handy mini size 33cl bottle. It’s a more convenient and easy to carry bottle size, which is more suited to and in line with today’s ‘on the go’ lifestyles. This mini bottle format makes it easy and convenient to carry around for all day hydration and is especially suited to fit in lunch boxes.
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San Michel table water is bottled and is produced, marketed and distributed by Simonds Farsons Cisk plc, member of the Farsons Group.
The Master Cellar is determined to offer a bespoke and friendly shopping experience within the pleasant interiors of their outlet, promising its patrons that feel good factor, whether buying a premium wine or a single malt, for a start to a great moment. Visit their outlet, easily located behind the Naxxar Parish Church.
Like our vegetables need time, sun, water and great care to grow and to come to the right grade of maturation, in the same way our farm has budded and flourished year after year in the last 30 years. Our grandfathers, our fathers, the women of our family have given body and soul to the care of our land and its fruits. Their hard-working hands and their devotion have permitted us to grow up loving our sun and our red land, learning that is important to improve ourselves and the surrounding landscape. To produce as we do, let us say it, it is necessary to be a little bit agriculturist, a
little bit artisan and a little bit artist. Every time we create a new product, we stop to imagine which sensation we want to offer to our clients, which surprise we want to give them and, which is the best taste to use in order to leave a long memory of our wonderful place. Our farm is always opened to the public. With us people can discover and learn the art of cultivation, of the picking and the conservation of the vegetables. Touristic destination and meeting-place, “iContadini� is not only a brand but a way to choose a daily quality.