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Becreative editorial content in

The Irish Independent Irish Independent – fine wine & food guide – December 2007

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A BE CREATIVE EDITORIAL PRODUCTION info@becreative.ie EDITOR Kevin Flanagan editor@indowineandfood.ie ASSISTANT EDITOR Dee Laffan deirdrelaffan@indowineandfood.ie DESIGN INM Design Studio studio@production.ie 048 375 16005

DECEMBER 2007

PHOTOGRAPHY Cover shot: Barbara Corsico Web: www.barbaracorsico.com Email: barbaracorsicophoto@gmail.com Nic Mac Innes Email: pix@indowineandfood.ie ADVERTISING KnowHow Media (01) 662 0710 Gerry Knowles gerry.knowles@knowhow.ie Shane Treanor (087) 9750667 shane.treanor@knowhow.ie Colm Martyn colm.martyn@knowhow.ie

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Gordon Ramsay – The Interview Kevin Flanagan speaks to the creator of Hell’s Kitchen to see if he is more angel than devil.

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Lisa’s Labels Sommelier Lisa O’Doherty recommends wines to get you through any occasion this Christmas!

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The Alternative Christmas Cake A wonderful recipe for chocolate cake from Lindt.

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Culinary Delight in the West Dee Laffan interviews the new Executive Chef at the Galway Bay Hotel.

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The Spirits of Christmas Paolo Tullio brings you traditional drinks to cover the 12 days of Christmas.

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Have a healthy Christmas A top nutritionist gives tips on how to survive the holiday season.

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The Veggie Christmas Mary Farrell has some great vegetarian Christmas recipes – and not a nut-loaf in sight!

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News Find out what’s happening in the world of wine and food.

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Darina Allen: Part 2 Put the finishing touches on your delicious Christmas cake and pudding.

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Stars of Irish Cooking Two Irish chefs match their recipes with Taittinger Champagne.

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A Quack’s Tale Dee Laffan puts duck on Christmas menu.

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Family Review Dave Power finds a hidden gem in Dundrum.

Something fishy going on… Bord Iascaigh Mhara has a delicious fish recipe for Christmas dinner.

Cookbook Reviews Helen Conrad O’Briain reviews two new cookbooks.

Table for 2 – Review Andy Boase finds a culinary haven in Co. Wexford.

Editor’s Welcome What a difference a year makes – or in our case just over two. In our first issue in October 2005, we interviewed Gordon Ramsay at his home in London. To mark our two-year anniversary we wanted to interview the world’s biggest chef again. We eventually tracked him down (between shooting Hell’s Kitchen, Kitchen Kevin Flanagan – Editor Nightmares and opening more restaurants, he’s a busy man) and he agreed to an interview in November. Thus we found ourselves driving down to Powerscourt in the glorious winter sunshine to meet one of the icons of world cooking. It’s strange how Gordon Ramsay’s reputation precedes him; our photographer had hardly slept the night before, fearful that the enfant terrible would throw a fit and break her equipment! (If you want to see if he did, turn to page 4). Perhaps it is a sign of Ireland’s standing in the culinary world that Ramsay now wants to open a restaurant here (with rumours that Nobu, the world’s greatest sushi chef, will follow him to Ireland in 2008). This issue of The Fine Wine & Food Guide is also the Christmas issue, and between now and January we will gorge ourselves with every kind of food and wine imaginable - and many drink combinations that are better off not imagined! It is of course a time of celebration, but by the end of the holiday season many of us will have literally had our fill. With this in mind we invited Michele Van Valey, a Californian nutritionist working in Dublin, to give us some tips on how to enjoy Christmas without the pain or weight-gain (pages 16-17). I’m already putting some of her advice into practice, including using smaller dessert plates for main courses (smaller portions = less weight). I’ve also been following her advice to drink a glass of water between each alcoholic drink, which has already saved me one hangover! I would encourage you to take up her Christmas challenge: weigh yourself on December 1st, again on January 1st and finally on February 1st to see if you too can avoid putting on the extra five pounds most of us gain over Christmas. The good news is that if you follow her advice your chances of staying the same weight will be high. Finally, on a personal note, this year I lost someone who was very dear to me, and with this in mind I’d like to sincerely wish all our readers a truly Happy Christmas, hoping you and your families can enjoy some of the things modern-day Ireland has in abundance: fine wines and nutritious, tasty foods. But best of all, may you enjoy it in the company of close family and trusted friends. Nollaig Shone agus gach rath ort sa Bhliain Nua See you in 2008. Kevin Flanagan, Editor

Lunchtime Review Dee Laffan finds a nice spot that’s light on the palate and the pocket.

REPRO Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited Published by Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited 27-32 Talbot Street Dublin 1

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Irish Independent – fine wine & food guide – December 2007

Irish Independent – fine wine & food guide – December 2007

the gordon ramsay interview

he last time I interviewed Gordon Ramsay I made a big mistake. It was my first celebrity interview and I was a little nervous. We were in Ramsay’s house in London and he was talking about his new “top secret” TV programme, something he thought he might call The F Word (not a great name, I thought at the time)! Presuming that Gordon would be cooking at night, I enquired if this “live” TV show would be screened during the day. This prompted a furious Ramsay tirade: ‘You think I’d do daytime TV – that I’m a f****** C-list celebrity?’ I quickly changed the subject and was hoping Ramsay would have forgotten my faux pas when we met two years later in the sumptuous surrounds of the Ritz Carlton in Powerscourt, where Ramsay has just opened his first Irish restaurant. As it turned out, Ramsay could not have been nicer. Was it me? Was it the beautiful autumn Wicklow weather? Or was it the rare bottle of Irish whiskey I gave him as a gift before we started the interview? Who knows? We certainly parted on good terms; he even invited me to the opening of first his restaurant in France next spring! It seems that Ireland helps bring out the angel in the devil that runs Hell’s Kitchen.

KEVIN FLANAGAN COMES FACE TO FACE WITH THE WORLD’S MOST NOTORIOUS CHEF AND LIVES TO TELL THE TALE.

Q&A 04

What attracts you to Ireland? Absolutely everything. The scenery, the style – when I come to Dublin I feel like I’m in France. But above all, it’s the fantastic ingredients which you don’t have to do a lot with. I’ve also a huge Irish contingency coming through in my restaurant team. Their attitude is fantastic, lots of tenaciousness and balls. And the support I’ve been shown here is phenomenal. Michael Deane and Richard (Corrigan) have been great in encouraging me. When did you first get involved in Powerscourt? I came over two years ago when they were first breaking ground, and just saw this amazing countryside and signed on the dotted line straightaway. I was brought over in a helicopter and thoroughly spoilt, although having said that, I don’t think chefs should be in helicopters, they should take the bus like everyone else! And I’ve got the best brigade here. Paul (Carroll, Head Chef ) is a force to be reckoned with, and he’s only 26 for God’s sake! He’s got a great future.

Is there bad blood between you and other chefs? Most of it’s just banter but I quite like it so bring it on. I mean, I don’t encourage it, but I’m thick-skinned, and my God have I gone to hell and back to get to where I am today. Absolutely nothing’s been handed to me on a plate and to be honest I’m just too busy to stop and look behind. Any unfulfilled ambitions? 3 Michelin stars in Dublin, 3 in Paris! I’m neck and neck with Alain Ducasse, who also has 12 Michelin stars but he’s got ten years on me, so maybe ask me that again in ten years. I’d also say the chances of my running a football club one day are very high. continued over

What’s your food philosophy? For example, will you be using only organic produce? The organic thing is exciting but it’s not the be all and end all. The integrity behind organic has slipped because the spectrum has become so broad and I hate to think of it becoming the next pretentious thing like nouvelle cuisine was. As a chef, my main issue is with consistency, and there’s never going to be anything wrong with food that is just properly reared or grown. Do you get tired of being seen as the grumpy, foulmouthed chef? Do you think in a busy kitchen that I’m going to lean over the counter and say ‘Would you mind awfully passing me the spinach?’ My predecessors, like Raymond Blanc, were even worse – amazing chefs to work for but absolute bastards at the same time. Actually I’ve sent Raymond a copy of my ‘3 Stars’ cookbook for Christmas. Hopefully it’ll bring him a bit closer to winning his own 3 stars!

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The Gordon Ramsay interview

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The Irish Independent


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