SUNDAY INDEPENDENT
JUNE ‘09
magazine
CONTENTS JUNE 2009
EDITOR’S NOTE I like a good bargain, and it’s no different when it comes to holidays. But above all you have to be realistic. I find that popular holiday destinations in peak times often sell so well that they are never reduced as last minute deals. Don’t miss out on a great holiday because you are searching for a lower price that just doesn’t exist. The key to getting a great last minute deal is flexibility, and if you want to get the cheaper deals you usually have to sacrifice being choosy. Everyone has a different interpretation of their ideal summer holiday: For some it is complete chill out on a beach resort, while others rather a cultural experience in somewhere they have never visited before. Personally I like to combine both, if it’s anyway possible. Recently I revelled in such a holiday in Morocco, where I enjoyed the sandy shores as much as haggling in the local souks. My Moroccan dirhams went far, from cultural excursions to pampering and tipping the kind people who made my sun holiday all the more enjoyable. Karen Creed, Editor
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03 BASQUE APPEAL From summer festivals to enticing activities along the coast, there are plenty of attractions to lure you to the Basque Country
04 TRAVEL NEWS Ireland’s hidden treasures and our pick of holidays abroad for the summer ahead
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06 ACE OF A HOLIDAY If you are bored of the beach lounger why not book an active break this summer? Karen Creed opted for sporting glory on a tennis holiday in the Algarve
08 FLY AND DRIVE THIS SUMMER A road trip can be an invigorating way to take in several countries in the one holiday as Corinna Ray experienced in Eastern Europe
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WHERE TO GO….FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW To holiday like a local, Alex Kennedy finds out what to see and do from those who know Dubai, South Africa and Sicily inside out
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A FOOD LOVER’S SLICE OF ITALY Good food is integral to many people when they go on holiday. Some even tour around in search of the best cuisine as Karen Creed did in Italy
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TAKE 3 BREAKS IN IRELAND Planning to holiday at home this summer? We look at three options for families, groups and couples
Be Creative Media Production info@becreative.ie Editor Karen Creed :: karcreed@gmail.com Design INM Design Studio Images Peter Charmant Advertising Terri Byrne :: tbyrne@independent.ie :: T: 01 7055420 Repro Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited Published by Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited :: 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
02 SITM June 2009
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BASQUE APPEAL
BASQUE IN CULTURE AND ADVENTURE From jazz festivals to historic pilgrimages and underwater delights, there are endless reasons to visit the Basque Country this summer. FESTIVAL FEVER ith the arrival of the San Juan celebrations and the summertime, the regions in the Basque Country are filled to the brim with festivals which have blended with Catholic traditions. A fine example of these popular traditions is the procession to the San Juan de Gaztelugatxe sanctuary, on the 24th of June, in the Biscay village of Bermeo. A popular walking pilgrimage from this chapel culminates in a flower offering to the statue of the Virgin, submerged in the depths of the sea. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is home to breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea, together with the small neighbouring island, Aketxe, which runs from the village of Bakio to Cape Matxitxako, on the Biscay Gulf. Another celebration held during the festival period is San Pedro day, on the 29th of June, in the fishing village of Lekeitio, also in Biscay. The statue carriers tilt him towards the sea in a pendulum movement, “kilinkala”, in a rite ceremony referring to fishing. Straight afterwards is the “Kaxarranka” dance, which consists of a man dancing on a large chest held up by eight sailors. This is a spectacular and unique dance acclaimed by residents and visitors. Check out www.bermeokoudala.net and www.learjai.com
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A VILLAGE LEGACY To speak of Gernika is, for some, to speak of a millenary town. If Picasso wanted to report, with his world renowned painting “Guernica”, the German air bombing of the town in 1973, during the Spanish civil war, the passage of time has converted the painting and the town itself into a symbol of the devastating effects of war and a cry for
peace. Peace which the citizens of Gernika have rooted through the creation of the Museo Internacional de la Paz (International Peace Museum). But, above all, Gernika is the cradle for the Árbol de Gernika (Gernika Tree), a symbol of the Basque freedoms, which, perpetuated in various generations (old trunk, current tree and shoot), symbolises the long history of the Basque population and their institution. Once arriving at Gernika, it is worth your while trying their excellent gastronomy, prepared with highest quality products such as the famous Gernika peppers or beans. Amongst the drinks on offer, txakoli is a must. Also the most important agriculture, cattle and gastronomy market is held on the last Monday of October. To round off a visit steeped in history, the coastal villages of Mundaka and Bermeo are a paradise for surfing, diving and enjoying the beautiful beaches dotted with cliffs and woods. For more information visit www.gernika-lumo.org
■ The traditional dance "Kaxarranka" celebrated on the 29th of June
THE RHYTHM OF JAZZ With the arrival of summer, Euskadi brims with festivals, and of the numerous events. The best jazz musicians appear at the Festival de Jazz de Getxo (Getxo Jazz Festival), the Festival de Jazz de Vitoria-Gazteiz (VitoriaGazteiz Jazz Festival) and the Jazzaldia Donostia-San Sebastián (Donostia-San Sebastián Jazzaldia). The Festival Internacional de Jazz de Getxo (Getxo International Jazz Festival), which celebrates its 33rd edition this year, is held from the 1st to the 5th of July in this Biscay coastal town. The opening day shall see the singer and pianist Diane Schuur performing, whilst the Cuban Omar Sosa will be playing the next day. Vitoria-Gazteiz is another classic in the festival panorama, and this year the
celebrations shall be held from the 12th until the 18th of July. Highlights of the list of international artists are the singer Lillian Bouté bringing sounds of New Orleans or the mythical Wynton Marsalis. Also, a legend of the jazz guitar, Pat Metheny will be the Festival’s “resident artist” where he will give guitar seminars. This year also commemorates 50 years since the death of Billie Holiday. Jazzaldia, which is held from the 22nd until the 26th of July shall provide a programme including the four mythical names in Jazz: The keyboard legends Hank Jones, Abdullah Ibrahim, Randy Weston and Roy Haynes. Further information visit www.heinekenjazzaldia.com www.getxo.net and www.jazzvitoria.com ■
EXPLORE MARINE FORESTS The Basque Country offers the unique habitat for the practice of skin-diving in this corner of the Cantabrian Sea. In Biscay, with its eighty kilometres of coast and its numerous ports and beaches, offers the visitor the possibility of enjoying an exciting experience of skin-diving in extensive sandbanks. From remains of ships sunken in Muskiz to submarine mountain chains in Sopelana, you can also skin dive in the eastern part from the plunged arches and blue waters in Gorliz to the flotsam of Mina Mari, in Matxitxako. For more information visit www.gipuzkoaturimo.net and www.divebizkaia.com
■ Skin diving is popular in the Basque Country
June 2009 SITM 03
TRAVEL NEWS
WHAT’S HOT ON THE HOLIDAY SCENE
HASSLE FREE HOLIDAYS The right protection If you need travel insurance this summer a European weekend away single trip policy is priced from €7.99 or great value European annual travel insurance from €21.99. There is also great value family cover with two weeks in Europe for a family from €17.98.Annual worldwide cover from €26.99 for an individual or a couple from €42.49. Visit www.blueinsurance.ie Airport Bliss Take the stress out of an early morning flight by checking into an airport hotel. There are some great deals, even at the four star Carlton Hotel Dublin Airport. With room rates from only €85, the perk is free parking for guests. Additional features include free broadband, free fitness centre and most importantly a complimentary shuttle bus to and from the airport. Visit www.carltondublinairport.com Avoid diarrhoea disaster Almost half of holidaymakers suffer from diarrhoea abroad. Contaminated water, exotic cuisine and drinking more alcohol than usual can all cause diarrhoea. To avoid having to stay on the loo during your holiday, remember to pack Imodium Instants. Available from your pharmacy It works with your body to prevent further fluid loss and can stop diarrhoea in one dose. Imodium Instants are ideal when you are on the go because you can take them without water. For more information visit www.digestivematters.ie
Tip for good service One of the most frustrating aspects of travelling abroad is calculating the tipping customs in a country. Whenever possible, tip in the local currency unless you're in a country with close American ties like Mexico or the Philippines. In parts of Asia and the Middle East, gift-giving is a more entrenched part of the culture than tipping. It is not a bad idea to take a few little wrapped gifts with you for concierges and chambermaids. Hotel maids are usually the least paid and least compensated in the hotel so a small daily gratuity is a good way to get more towels or toiletries.
Coffee on the go Coffee fans can rely on a new rewards programme with a Starbucks Card. It gives holders extra value and benefits whenever they use their registered Starbucks Card. Starbucks Card is accepted in participating Starbucks® coffeehouses all around the world (United Kingdom, United States, Mexico, Hong Kong, Canada, Australia and Thailand), meaning you can enjoy the great taste of Starbucks coffee even if you lack the local currency. To become a member register online at www.starbucks.ie
04 SITM June 2009
AS GOOD AS IT GETS South African glory Stay at Cape Town’s five star Cape Royale Hotel from an amazing €1295 for seven nights including flights and transfers plus taxes of €295. You could do the best of South Africa tour with Highlights including Cape Town, Garden Route and Safari for 10 nights. This is priced from €1295 plus taxes of €290. Or book a Christmas in the sun with 12 nights in Cape Town for €1795 including taxes. For these and other deals visit www.abbeytravel.ie or call 01 8047100. Ski for less Why not organise your next ski trip now by availing of the cheap prices? Prices are as low as €479 per person with Cyrstal Ski to places like Austria, Italy and Bulgaria. They are also offering an early booking discount of €100 if you book before the 30th of June. Visit www.cyrstalski.ie Summer cruising Are you tempted by an Icelandic summer cruise? This is an idyllic time to see the glacier splendours of Iceland plus the added bonus of an overnight in Reykjavik. Departure dates are from Cobh on August 15th and from Killybegs on August 17th. The cruise returns to Dublin on August 27th. This is currently on special offer from €1049 – a saving of €850 compared to the normal fare. Details from your travel agent or direct from Fred Olsen Cruises on 01 2482833. www.fredolsencruises.co.uk
Reel in a good holiday Stena Line is helping customers get to Pembrokeshire Fish Week (currently running until the 5th of July) from only €69* for a car and driver from Rosslare to Fishguard. The perk is kids go free*. Thousands of seafood-lovers will travel to the county for the 10th birthday of Pembrokeshire Fish Week, with fresh fish and beautiful beaches to be enjoyed. Visit www.stenaline.ie or call 01 204 7777 France for less If you're still longing to get away this summer but haven't yet booked, you may want to consider France. If you take a return ferry crossing with Brittany Ferries from Cork to Roscoff for travel between the 11th and 25th of July, you'll save up to €350. It takes just 14 hours with a convenient weekend schedule. For more information call 021 427 7801 or visit www.brittanyferries.ie
TRAVEL NEWS
Italy’s treasures Visit Verona, Florence, Rome, Assisi and Lake Garda and discover romantic, enchanting and spectacular Italy with the Italian Specialists. This idyllic 14 night tour is more attractive than ever with prices from €1799 per person. The next tour is August 15th with direct flights from Dublin, Belfast and Cork. Or just enjoy the opera in Verona with prices from €629pp, including flights, bed and breakfast, accommodation and transfers. Visit www.topflight.ie
s ’ r o t i d E PICK Salsa Summer Salsa dancing is hugely popular in all parts of the world from Spain to Cuba. Before you head off to a destination brimming with salsa clubs, why not take some lessons to learn the basics? You can do a weekend workshop, weekly classes or even book a private lesson for a group of friends. For salsa dancing classes check out www.dancetilyoudrop.net www.salsango.net or email info@dancetillyoudrop.net
Lapland Treat If you are already thinking of the festive period and want to treat the family, Canterbury Travel – Lapland’s leading specialist - has a five day magical tour to this winter wonderland setting. This departs Dublin on the morning of December 23rd and returns back to Dublin on the night of December 27th. Accommodation is provided in hotels, apartments, bungalows and cabins. As many of Canterbury’s tours fill quickly, early booking is recommended. Call 01 677 0670 or email info@canterbury-tales.com
For information on dance holidays around the world visit www.danceholidays.com/salsa or www.rogaia.com
Disney Delights Mickey’s Magical Party is a star-studded occasion featuring new entertainment, a new attraction, and special offers that run at Disneyland Resort Paris until March 2010. You can get up to 40% off your Disney hotel and park tickets, plus kids under seven stay and play free when you book with Breakaway.ie. Simply book a classic two night /three day package to arrive anytime between the 7th of May and 8th pf November. Visit www.breakaway.ie or call 01 607 9966
Hungarian Grand Prix The Hungaroring track is situated 20 kilometres north of Budapest, allowing you the perfect opportunity to explore one of the most beautiful cities in central Europe. Known as the ‘Paris of central Europe’ and ‘the Queen of the Danube’, Cassidy Travel has a three night package with standard entrance tickets departing Dublin on the 24th July 2009.The price per person is €699, taxes of €68pp are additional. Prices include flights, accommodation and tickets to the Grand Prix race and qualifying race. Call 01 8725000 or email: rsmart@cassidytravel.ie
June 2009 SITM 05
ALGARVE TENNIS
AN ACE OF A HOLIDAY If you are bored of the beach lounger, why not book an active break this summer? Karen Creed opted for sporting glory on a tennis holiday in the Algarve.
06 SITM June 2009
T
he urge to get active kicks in around the same time every year, just as the weather brightens up and TV nights should be switched to invigorating outdoor activities. Tennis has always been my favourite fresh air pastime. But for over a decade now my tennis racket has become a dust collector and its owner needs tennis coaching before going back to the grassy court. Rather than re-learn
the basics in a temperamental climate, I liked the idea of improving my tennis in the sun. I was surprised to discover such a range of tennis camps and settings from the faraway shores of Mauritius to the historic surroundings of Venice. The holidays themselves are as varied as individual tennis styles. Impressed by the professionalism and reviews of Jonathan Markson, I perused their holiday options. Since I was on a relatively tight budget and specific time scale, their tennis holiday
in the Algarve ticked all the boxes. With several direct flights from Dublin I could take a long weekend and still sign up to four days of tennis coaching. The location of my tennis holiday was in the charming resort of Luz. The Vila Baia resort is tucked away at the eastern edge of the beach with its own private facilities including swimming pools, an Italian themed restaurant, and two perfectly maintained tennis courts. Our apartment was within a stone’s throw of the courts, ensuring no excuses for tardiness each morning. With the blue skies and baking sun beating down on us, we were put through our paces from the moment we stepped on the court that first morning. I was already perspiring after the first lap but however high the temperature, a warm up and stretches is a morning ritual before you reach for the racket. Our two coaches Luis and Vasco arrived to the courts with their highly regarded reputations in the tennis circles. We soon realised they had distinctly different teaching practices but those which
ALGARVE TENNIS
complemented each other. While Vasco had the gentler approach and encouraged us to have “happy feet” at all times, Luis had an amusing way of enticing us with freebies if we played good tennis. The difference with a tennis holiday compared to other sports is that it is open to all ages and levels – whether you are a seasoned player or a complete novice. Tennis holidays attract an interesting bunch of people. Groups of middle aged women who boast confidence in their tennis skirts are the typical clientele, but many families are also lured to this idea of combining exercise with a sun holiday. Since I went at a quiet time there were just two others n my tennis camp – my sister Stephanie, and John from Yorkshire who was distinctly better at tennis than us. Once we were on the court at 9am each morning it was straight into practicing our forehand, backhand and challenging the other players to a game of Champion. Time flew by and everything started to tone up. The fitness is not just down to the tennis. There are balls to be collected, plenty of them. The routine of taking turns practising with the coach while others take a breather (or collect balls) is a good one. The coaches
also instantly know what weaknesses to work on with each individual. For me it was my forehand, for my sister it was her backhand and for John it was his slam shots. Between the three of us there were many missed shots but also a random ace or a sneaky lobby every now and then. We found every excuse for our bad play, the sun being in our eyes was always the most credible one. For the first two days I didn’t get too many shots over the net, but the coaches didn’t seem to mind. For them it is all about adopting a sound technique before getting any balls over the net. To ensure we understand where we are going wrong they video us and analyse our right and wrong moves. Surprisingly by day four I finally had my forehand mastered. Both Vasco and Luis delivered their promise to improve our tennis. They also had an infectious sense of humour and soon we were challenging Luis to a free meal in his restaurant when we played against him. Stephanie came close, winning a bottle of wine. There were three hours of tennis every morning with a short break half way through for a coffee or a freshly squeezed orange juice. This time out could be your chance to further discuss your tennis technique with the coaches or else like us find out from them some local knowledge.
Vasco recommended we do a tour of the best surfing spots along the coast one afternoon, which resulted in us planning a surfing holiday next time we are in Portugal. Another day we drove to a nearby town for what is reputed to be the best chicken piri piri in the Algarve. There was also some time for shopping in Alvor while the final afternoon we stayed in Luz, focusing on typical holiday activities – swimming, sunbathing and eating too much ice-cream. The additional perk of an active holiday is that you can eat without any sense of guilt. While the Portuguese cuisine is generally very healthy, it is the side portions and desserts that make it all the more delicious. Alloro in Vila Baia is designed to please any palate but for a more authentic meal we went to our coach Luis’s restaurant in the town. It’s not just because of his good contacts that Antonio’s is full every night, but probably because the food is top notch. We took Luis’s advice of skipping starters and just having the typical couverts of fresh bread with sardine paté and marinated vegetables. Sticking to tradition we went for the house special of seafood cataplana. We devoured the large pot of lobster, mussels, prawns and clams mixed with rice and a delicious tomato sauce. Full after our main courses, we managed to breathe in some
space for two desserts - banoffi pie and chocolate mousse. I was tired on the last day of tennis camp, but there is nothing quite like a few laps around the court to forget about any suffering you may have. The only difficult part of a tennis holiday is the inevitable aches from muscles you never realised you had. My legs did start to feel like jelly but a newfound confidence in my tennis encouraged me to give it my all on this final morning. Vasco’s encouraging “one more time” finally did become one more time and we had to pack away our rackets and enjoy a farewell drink with our coaches. I know that I will be back to the Algarve for another tennis holiday. I imagine their strong legion of repeat visitors is not just down to the enjoyment of a tennis holiday, but the combination of excellent coaching and the most spectacular setting. While many of us are too old to fulfil childhood dreams of becoming the next Steffi Graf or Boris Becker, a tennis holiday certainly makes you feel more confident on the court. For information or to book a tennis holiday check out Jonathan Markson Tennis at www. marksontennis.com or call 00442076032422 ■
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June 2009 SITM 07
FLY DRIVE
■ Banja Luka in Bosnia is known as the green city
FLY AND DRIVE IN EASTERN EUROPE A road trip can be an invigorating way to take in several countries in the one holiday as Corinna Ray experienced in Eastern Europe
I
like the idea of spontaneous travel, and realised just how effortless it can be on a recent holiday to Eastern Europe. It seems to be the norm for those who live on mainland Europe to drive from their homeland to another country for a long weekend or take in several countries during their summer holiday. For island dwellers this type of travel can be a novelty, which makes it all the more appealing. The only difficult decision is choosing what countries to visit. There is Austria with its dramatic mountains and opera culture, Germany renowned for its music festivals, or Czech Republic with its fairytale cities and delicious beer. After much deliberation I had my chosen three - Hungary, Croatia and Bosnia. It wasn’t just because they all lie in close proximity, but the strong recommendations that came with them. I had been to Hungary once before and craved a return to its vibrant capital. I had also toured around Croatia’s coastline but this time I
08 SITM June 2009
wanted to focus on its rugged inland and venture south to its neighbour Bosnia. Once I arrived into Budapest I hired a car and mapped a rough route of where I wanted to visit in Hungary. As much as I boast about my accurate map reading, I had a SatNav as our back up. Hungary is known for many things but is probably most famous for its music, paprika and thermal spas. I fell in love with all three. A few days was plenty to take in the long list of Budapest’s attractions. My favourites included a cruise on the Danube, a massage on St Margaret’s island, strudel tasting in Reteshaz, buying edible souvenirs in the Market Hall, people-watching in Café Gerbaud and feeling like sleeping beauty as I wandered through the Castle District at sunrise. Outside the capital there are many other beautiful places, most notably Lake Balaton. All around the lake there are towns that combine culture, parties and spectacular scenery all summer long. Given the great weather I was
particularly eager to test out the cycling track around the lake. It was recently completed allowing cyclists to bike a total of 200 kilometres. We decided to do a loop tour of Lake Balaton with stopovers in a few towns along the way. Before driving to the lake we stopped in Gyor, a beautiful city which is like a step back in time with its cobblestone streets and Baroque buildings. It is known as the city of rivers, flowers and festivals – as proven by an abundance of all three. There are also modern streets for shopping and delightful settings for dining like restaurant La Mareda. Gyor also has a strong connection with Ireland with an iconic painting of the Irish Madonna in the local church which was brought over to Gyor by an Irish priest. Thousands of people come here every year to pray at this painting. From Gyor we drove to Heviz which is the north western part of Lake Balaton. It is ideal for anyone who wants to get fit and healthy on
holiday with its array of fitness hotels and the world’s largest thermal lake. Thousands of people come to Lake Vas to help them with conditions like arthritis or else just for pure relaxation. In nearby Keszthely there are beautiful sights to be explored, including the Festetics Palace, which holds a fascinating history. Culture is also big in the form of winetasting. Whether your preference is red or white, you can be sure to drink well in Hungary as their homemade wines range from delicious Rieslings to full bodied reds. From abbeys to family run vineyards, there is wine tasting available all over the country. The oldest part of Lake Balaton is Balatonfuhred. While I expected it to be the most dated town, it was quite the opposite. Swanky hotels and glamorous cafes like Karolina’s flank the lakefront catering to any visitor who likes their fine wine and sweet treats. Tihany is an equally pretty town and although it is bombarded by tourists in
FLY DRIVE
“Only for the border crossing Bosnia feels like an extension of Croatia, with its pretty stone houses and charming towns with markets and a series of chic cafes”
■ Croatia's enticing coastline
summer, it retains some amount of authenticity. There are lovely ceramic stores to stroll around and a beautiful abbey on a hilltop which offers a great view of the lake below. Tihany is associated with many fascinating myths and from here you can take several boat tours out on the lake. Since we
were on a tight timescale we opted for the quick ferry crossing to bring us to the other side of the lake and on the motorway back to Budapest. When we arrived back to the capital, rather than drive to Croatia we took a short 50 minute flight to Zagreb and rented a car there. Zagreb is an understated city, and one which
was regarded as a stopover rather than a destination as far back as the days of the Orient Express. That is no longer the case. Zagreb's attractions aren't as famous as Dubrovnik’s but it's nonetheless difficult to experience all the city's delights on an overnight stay. It is not so much glitzy as it is a city of history and culture. The best - and in some cases the only - way to see Zagreb is on foot, with the occasional tram or bus ride. Almost everything in the city centre is pedestrian-accessible and so are some of the sites further afield. Gornji Grad (Upper Town) is flush with historical buildings and churches, restaurants, boutiques, monuments, and entertainment venues. Donji Grad (Lower Town) is strong on museums, parks, historic architecture, and shopping. During the day there is lots of hustle and bustle with people sipping coffee at sidewalk cafes, while in the evenings diners linger over dessert, head for nightclubs to listen to jazz, or stroll the cobblestone streets. Driving from Zagreb to the Bosnian border takes just two hours. Only for the border crossing Bosnia feels like an extension of Croatia, with its pretty stone houses and charming towns with markets and a series of chic cafes. Bosnia is of course well known but often not for the right reasons. The war images still tarnish people’s minds but perhaps it will take a generation of intrepid tourists to see this has all the ingredients to become Europe’s next holiday hotspot. The warm and confident nature of the locals ensures that the bad times are all in the past. While the rest of the world is in recession, Bosnia looks like it’s
on the verge of something better with new shops and restaurants opening, and beautiful buildings being restored. Banja Luka is the country’s second biggest city and is a wonderful place to eat, sightsee and shop. There is a historic side also with a beautiful castle district overlooking the river. In the summer this is packed with people spending their day swimming in the river or enjoying ice-cream and coffees in the cafes that line the riverfront. Then of course there are the prices. In Bosnia you really can holiday like royalty with a beer costing €1 and a four star hotel is approximately €40 for a room per night. There are five star hotels also like Kaldera Boutique Hotel with a spa that would give any Irish one a run for its money. The standards of service in restaurants to cafes are higher than many other places I have been, with the food being one of the surprising highlights. They are generous on meats, fish and big into fresh vegetables and salads. Fortunately they also have a sweet tooth and there are endless temptations for ice-cream and delicious pastries. Bosnia’s only downside is that it doesn’t have endless kilometres of coastline to attract holidaymakers, which has undoubtedly helped Croatia become a booming holiday resort. However good things come in small packages and that is just the case with Bosnia’s twenty kilometres of coastline. Next time I plan to embark on a road trip starting from Croatia again and venturing south to visit the historic city of Sarajevo, onwards to the seaside resort of Neum before ending my trip on a high note in Dubrovnik. ■
DIRECT FROM DUBLIN • Malev has flights direct from Dublin to Budapest and onwards to Zagreb in Croatia and Sarajevo in Bosnia Prices include Split from €179 plus tax of €120.40, Zagreb from €55 plus tax of €123.40 For full details of schedules and to book call 0818 55 55 77 or visit www.malev.com For car rental visit Hertz www.hertz.ie or call 01 6767476 For fly/drive packages to Hungary visit Abbey Travel www.abbeytravel.ie
June 2009 SITM 09
TEMPTING BREAKS
WHERE TO GO… FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW To holiday like a local, Alex Kennedy finds out what to see and where to eat from those who live or have lived in popular holiday destinations. SOUTH AFRICA Having lived and worked in Cape Town for seven years I have to say is it one of the greatest gourmet capitals of the world as well as producing some of the finest wines. Camps Bay is South Africa’s premier tourist destination and Blues is one of the landmark restaurants where people flock to try the excellent cuisine and experience the breathtaking views. Then there is 1800° at Cape Royale Hotel. Located in one of Cape Town’s hottest new five star hotels the 1800° is named after the Fahrenheit temperature at which its steaks are grilled. Other dishes start from an unbelievable €11 a head. To enjoy some of the best wines on offer in South Africa you can visit the famous wine producing areas of Stellembosch, Franschoek, Paarl, Robertson and Durban-ville. Here you can enjoy some stunning wines from just €4 a bottle. If you get to Durban a major focus for visitors is the long stretch of beachfront lined with hotels and restaurants. A key attraction in this area is the colourful costumes of the Zulu men who offer rickshaw rides along the seafront. Finally if you want to give a helping hand while in South Africa it is possible to participate in the Niall Mellon housing project, for even a day. Visit www.wine.co.za or for holidays to South Africa check out www.gosouthafrica.ie
Ed Finn
DUBAI o to the aquarium in Dubai Mall as it has penguins and seals and also to the new Dubai Fountain, which is coordinated water to music like in the Bellagio in Vegas - only bigger. For real bargains there is the Outlet Mall in the desert or Karama for quality fakes. The coolest bar is Buddha Bar in the marina, while the best club is Chi (five rooms with different types of music in each), the best view is from Neo’s in The Address Hotel and an essential ex-pat hangout is the Barasti Bar. Every Friday everyone in Dubai goes to a brunch - all you can eat for three hours. I like the one at the Dusit Thani hotel, which is about 229 dirham. Go to the Wild Wadi waterpark for the day and then learn to ski in Ski Dubai and finish at the bar overlooking the slopes. Cut price accommodation can be found at the Golden Sands apartments in Bur Dubai but the Tamani Hotel in the marina has great deals as it’s a Muslim hotel. Everyone goes to The Irish Village in Garhoud for the craic but Fibbers Magees Irish pub is better and does a better fry up too. Take the newly opened monorail out to The Palm and see the Atlantis Hotel and learn to swim with dolphins. The best last night is a dinner cruise on a dhow in Dubai Creek, the most fancy is the Bateaux Dubai but there are cheaper options. Check out Time Out Dubai website for all details or www.bluebananaarabia.com for activities. For holidays to Dubai visit www.escape2.ie or www.sunway.ie
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Shane McGinley
10 SITM June 2009
TEMPTING BREAKS SICILY I would recommend anyone coming to Sicily to visit Taormina and than head onwards to Isole Eolie. The most romantic islands are Panarea, Stromboli and Salina but you can do a tour of all the islands if you have the time. There are special boats that organise day trips to the different islands. I did Panarea and Stromboli in one day, but I think it is nice to stay the night in Panarea or Stromboli and maybe take a day trip to visit Vulcano (the biggest island). Alicudi and Filicudi are the more wild and authentic islands. Noto is worth a visit in the southeast of Sicily and many people visit Lido di Noto, a beautiful beach with a tropical sea. There are bars and two little restaurants directly on the beach, the best one is Lido Azzurro which serves salads, fried fish, pizza and other local specialties. In the same place you can rent a deckchair and beach umbrella. In Siracusa the best area is the old part: Ortigia has plenty of restaurants and bars and many have a nice sea view near Fonte Aretusa. Siracusa is famous for pasta with fish (Spaghetti allo
scoglio). Near Taormina you can visit Acireale, Acicastello and Acitrezza, or spend a day visiting Ragusa Ibla in the south and the beautiful beaches of Modica and Marzamemi. In Catania check out the best fish restaurant, Osteria Antica Marina (Via Pardo 29). It is very popular so it is best to reserve a table beforehand. In the West coast there is Trapani, Erice and the beautiful beaches of San Vito Lo Capo and Riserva dello Zingaro. From Trapani it is possible to take a boat and go to Favignana island and Marettimo, both are very famous for the blue sea and the water is like the Caribbean. The south of Sicily is famous for Agrigento and the Temple Valley and Selinunte - a Greek archeological site. Eating in Sicily should include some cassata and granita(mandorla, pistacchio, caffè, gelsi). For dinner try pasta con le sarde, pasta alla Norma (with aubergine and ricotta cheese) and Scacce which is similar to a pizza. For holidays to Sicily visit www.topflight.ie
CHICAGO With every designer brand imaginable and suburbs of chic boutiques, purchasing is one of the most popular pastimes in Chicago. The Magnificent Mile - voted one of the ten best avenues in the world – is flanked by four shopping malls. If you want to break away from traditional brands, sign up for the Urban Shopping Guide, where you will be escorted to Chicago’s fashion treasures buried in its most vibrant neighborhoods. Your party will be chauffeured in a luxury vehicle, and provided shopping itineraries, food, and a personal guide. And for men who hate to shop, personal styling in Chicago’s main boutiques will make the process surprisingly enjoyable. Some stores even offer haircuits and spa services on site. If Chicago does one thing better than shopping, it’s eating out. Everything is here, from street stalls with hotdogs and Italian beef sandwiches to high end seafood restaurants.
Visiting Chicago without trying a slice of deep dish pizza is like shopping without a visit to Macy’s. Giordano’s or Malottis are two of the most renowned pizzerias in the city who serve this calorific treat. Taste authentic Italian cuisine at Stefani’s or for a gourmet treat choose the tasting menu at celebrity restaurant Charlie Trotter’s or Blackbird, voted the 23rd best restaurant in the States. Chicago sits within a day’s drive of four of Illinois’s near neighbours – Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, and Wisconsin. The northbound drive is lovely, skirting the shore and heading up through lakeside communities into forested country. The main out-of-town trip, however, is the lake itself. Lake Michigan is one of the five Great Lakes of North America and regular cruises depart from Navy Pier (www.chicagotours.us). For holidays to Chicago visit www.americanholidays.ie
Corinna Razzetti
Daniella Cedarson
SAVE SAVE SAVE Prices Cheaper then 2008
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June 2009 SITM 11
A TASTE OF TRAVEL
I
taly is one country I never tire of. Before every visit I am overwhelmed at the prospect of slipping back into pasta wonderland and a content pace of life. A love affair for this country has blossomed since my first visit to Lake Maggiore ten years ago. Stints of living and working there quickly followed and now I return at any excuse, be it a food festival or a cheap flight. Eager to share this love affair with my boyfriend, I reeled off the importance of stepping inside the famous boot, quoting Samuel Johnson: “A man who has not been to Italy is always conscious of inferiority, from his not having seen what is expected a man should see.” Bemused but not convinced, fortunately his love of Italian cuisine was enough for him to agree to a two week holiday. The difficult part was deciding on what area to focus our trip. La dolce vita runs through Italian veins whether you're on the sun soaked beaches of Sicily, gliding through the lagoons of Venice or shopping for Gucci in Milan. The Mezzogiorno region is incredible in summer but we chose to travel around the North, where we could indulge in hearty cuisine and the cities awe-inspiring wonders. With a blank itinerary I had the
advantage of rounding up my favourite places. Known for its fashion both on and off the road, driving in Italy puts a whole new take on the typical Sunday drive. The motorways here compare to a competitive catwalk show with everyone out to overtake you in their flash Ferrari or Bugatti. The Italians are leaders of car design and even with our reliable Fiat we were able to keep our costs low and still drive in comfort. After collecting our car in Milan Airport we set up our reliable GPS to direct us to our first port of call – the world’s only floating city. Venice is not my favourite place in the world but it leaves a lasting impression. The real beauty lies in the labyrinth of streets, the buildings gleaming with intricate beauty and bridges interlinking different parts of the city. Hotels in Venice are notoriously expensive but the current climate has forced even the swankiest of places to reduce their prices. Budgeting on transport meant we could splash out on nice accommodation. Well accustomed to hosting Italy’s elite and Hollywood superstars, we revelled in the royal treatment of the five star Bauer hotel and its prime location. Our bedroom had a view of the water with the gondoliers singing their hearts out. Just a short stroll from St Mark’s Square, we spent the evenings sipping
prosecco in the hotel’s glamorous B Bar before finding somewhere interesting to eat. While Venice is beautiful to roam about, I was more impressed by Burano, the nearby island that is famous for its brightly coloured houses. Il Gatto Nero is a restaurant on this island that is renowned for its seafood and pasta dishes. Our lunch there lasted for hours and we left with a lingering taste of a dessert (with a secret recipe) that rivalled tiramisu. From Venice we headed east to the Lombardy region. The Italian Lakes are its pride and joy, famous for their stunning landscapes of pastel-painted waterside towns and villages, luxurious mansions and historic islands. Little wonder this northern corner of Italy is a favourite haunt of celebrities, alongside romantic couples and families. Lake Como in particular has made its mark thanks to the attentions of George Clooney,
who has a home here. We stayed at Albergo Terminus (www.albergoterminus.com) which sits pretty on Lake Como, boasting incredible views over the lake and beyond. The hotel reflects an old world charm combined with contemporary facilities. The bedrooms are decadent in design while the friendly staff are helpful when it comes to deciding where to eat and tours to take. Risotto alla Milanese and seafood are both worth ordering in this part of the country and also the vast selection of regional cheese. For an evening to remember we took a boat tour on the lake followed by a candlelit dinner near the promenade. Our next port of call was a city that I believe is under-rated. Turin is best known for its Fiat factory. However the taste and variety of local dishes make a good case for the city being the country’s food capital.
“A man who has not been to Italy is always conscious of inferiority, from his not having seen what is expected a man should see”
ITALY ON A PLATE One mention of Italy conjures up images of pasta, pizza, ice cream and espresso. They are all true and plenty more besides writes Karen Creed. 12 SITM June 2009
A TASTE OF TRAVEL
Situated in Italy's Piedmont region, Turin is surrounded by agricultural land and there is over 160,000 acres of vineyards which produce wines such as the Barolo. The Piedmontese tradition doesn’t just extend to drink. Turin's many fine foods include bagna caoda (an anchovy and garlic sauce) and fritto misto, a mouth-watering concoction of fried seafood that features fish, squid, crab and cuttlefish. Desserts are similarly lavish, with unique white truffles, filed pralines and gianduiotti chocolates being the very definition of guilty pleasures. It’s unlikely that anyone will be returning home on an empty stomach. We stayed at Townhouse 70 (www.townhouse70.it). It is the newest boutique hotel in Turin with all the trendy trimmings that you would expect – retro bedrooms, a cool breakfast bar and a prime location near the main piazza. While it doesn’t have a restaurant on site, there are numerous ones to choose from nearby, including Scui Scia. Eager to end our trip on a high note, we chose a combination of romance and good food in Florence. There is no city in the world like it. Since you can stroll across the heart of it in less than an hour, it’s incredible how it crams as much
history, art, and sheer grandeur into so compact and charming a place. In the fine weather you can enjoy leisurely strolls along the cobblestone streets and enjoy coffee or ice-cream at the pretty sidewalk cafés. The Savoy (www.hotelsavoy.it) is the most luxurious hotel in the city centre with an envious setting overlooking the Piazza della Repubblica. It is certainly unique in design and character as it features quirky images of shoes throughout, illustrating the city’s association with the fashion industry. Highlights include the fabulous L’Incontro bar which overlooks the piazza and dining on bistecca alla fiorentina and ribollita in the hotel’s authentic Florentine restaurant. For car hire in Italy visit www.arguscarhire.ie for the best deals. They also arrange car hire throughout Europe and other parts of the world. ■
TEN DESTINATIONS FOR FOOD LOVERS
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❼ ➒ ❹
❿ ❺
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1. Lyon 2. San Sebastian 3. Montreal
4. Tokyo 5. Hong Kong 6. Chicago
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7. Budapest 8. Cape Town 9. Istanbul
10. Marrakech
Lakes& Mountains DISCOVER SLOVENIA DISCOVER SLOVENIA OFFER Kranjska Gora 3 Star Alpina Hotel HB
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Offers shown are based on travel in July and are subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply.
Offers shown are based on travel in July and are subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply.
June 2009 SITM 13
IRELAND BREAKS
TAKE 3 BREAKS IN IRELAND Planning to holiday at home this summer? We look at the options for families, groups and couples. FOR COUPLES – WEXFORD exford is best known for being the sunniest county of Ireland so it naturally entices holidaymakers to its coastline every summer. However away from the thriving coastal resorts, the bustling towns and the famous heritage trails lies a retreat that has its own legion of followers. Monart is tucked deep into the countryside and has become a destination in its own right. Designed as a getaway from all the hullabaloo of everyday life, it is strictly adults who can revel in its countryside delights. I believe this alone is part of its mass appeal. Monart is set amid 119 acres of lush greenery and farm land, with magnificent views of Vinegar Hill, one of Ireland's most historic landmarks. As I stepped into the entrance of the old house I instantly forgot about my to-do list and any work concerns.
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From here on in it is on with the soft bathrobes and down to some serious R&R. It feels odd at first staying in your bathrobe all day, but once you see everyone else in theirs, it becomes the norm. It compares to having a lovely pyjama day but in much finer surroundings and with better services on offer. The spa itself is the integral part of Monart offering all types of treatments and therapies. Couples come here for time out or simply to revel in a few days of pampering. Groups of women, and even men are regulars also, each hoping to walk away from this idyllic hideaway with a spring in their step. My favourite part of the Spa was the thermal spa experience which is a two hour trail of hot and cold treatments including a salt grotto, an aromatherapy steam room and a caldarium. Feeling cleansed from a facial, and my body relaxed from a massage, I don’t think I have ever slept as much (or as well). The setting alone encourages you to catch up on lost rest; a heated lounger or a cushioned chair on every corner
helps with regular catnaps. The bedrooms also have their own signature luxury in the form of inviting beds and extravagant bathrooms. For me pampering and indulgent dining go hand in hand, but those who want to be healthy or detox in Monart are also considered. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus cater to the fussiest of palates while the setting will remind you of your remote surroundings as the ducks waddle about outside and the swans glide through the lake. The staff at Monart are extremely helpful in suggesting itineraries or activities in Monart and also outside their haven. There are acres of land to roam about and scenic walks to explore. Embarrassingly I didn’t venture outside the door once, but that was because every time I intended to I was lured back into the Spa for one of their fabulous treatments. Just two days in Monart proved that I don’t need to venture to the coastline for a holiday glow. I can get it right here. For information on Monart visit www.monart.ie or call 053 9238999
■ Monart
■ Monart
14 SITM June 2009
FOR GROUPS – DELPHI f there was ever a place to get seriously active, it has to be Delphi Mountain Resort. Known primarily for its adventure and youth holidays, the Connemara adventure centre is an equally great escape for an invigorating weekend. Set within 400 acres of majestic forest, it boasts 25 ocean, mountain and forest activities complemented by luxury accommodation, an eco-friendly spa and tantalising cuisine. The location – close to one of the world’s finest surfing beaches, against a stunning backdrop of the Mweelrea and 12 Bens mountain ranges – makes it an ideal getaway for those looking to combine adventure with a generous helping of R&R. For the outdoors buff, the activities at Delphi can be somewhat mind boggling. Surfing, kayaking, rock climbing; every tiny part of land and water around Delphi is put to good use. Having written my wish list, my weekend at Delphi started with catching my first surf break at Crosses beach, followed by a lesson in raft making before combating my fear of abseiling. Fortunately for slightly nervous adventurers, instructors make even the most challenging activities seem possible, whatever your age or standard. Best of all, the energy you burn up outdoors entitles you to indulge big time. Expect to taste the best of land and water produce at Delphi’s restaurant with delicious lobster and
I
IRELAND BREAKS FOR FAMILIES – KILKENNY aking the family on holiday in Ireland has finally become affordable. Hotels, tourist attractions and restaurants are all realising that they need to offer value if they want people to visit, especially this summer. Kilkenny in particular is showing its family appeal with package deals and special offers, not to mention a range of new attractions. The reasons to visit are vast from the parklands to the castle and so many festivals taking place throughout the summer. The Kilkenny Arts Festival is a huge event in August that showcases all types of talent from jazz bands to dance and other live performances. Children can also partake in all sorts of activities while they are on holiday in Kilkenny, choosing from workshops, sports and summer camps. Where to stay is not a difficult option given the number of guesthouses, holiday homes and hotels throughout the county. The great thing about a recession is that those who could not justify staying in a five star hotel during the boom can now stay there for a reasonable price. An impressive five star hotel set in spectacular surroundings is the Lyrath Estate Hotel. Just five minutes drive away from Kilkenny, you can see that Lyrath is a combination of contemporary hotel design with the elegance of its original 17th century house. With all types of amenities imaginable under one roof, it ticks the boxes for families with both teens and toddlers. There are spacious bedrooms, 170 acres of mature parkland to roam about and even a private cinema. There is a choice of two restaurants with a fine dining option and a more casual Thai restaurant which serves all the Asian favourites. If it is raining, there is no need to despair as children can go to the private cinema, choose their movie and sit down to watch it with popcorn. Or there is a Wii room where they can pass a few hours playing games. There is also the option to take a boat
T
organic lamb. After a day out in the Irish outdoors, a place of warmth and comfort is appreciated all the more. Accommodation at Delphi ranges from impressive two bedroom suites with living rooms and large wooden balconies, to split level junior suites, to large double rooms. All are individual cocoons of ■ Delphi
comfort, with purposely extra downy quilts to induce a long sleep. For those who are visiting Delphi in large groups or on a tight budget there are also authentic hostel style dorms. Whatever room you choose they are all designed to maximise the breathtaking views and vistas of the surrounding Connemara Mountains. A particular highlight of Delphi is the on-site Spa. The signature treatment is the Delphi Seaweed baths which is the ultimate body detox, utilising organic locally hand harvested seaweed and mountain spring water. This and other spa treatments – facials, massages, wraps - are complemented by an extensive physical movement programme including yoga, thi chi, and Pilates. Whatever treatment you choose the natural setting of the Spa allows you to be fully immersed in nature letting a sense of deep relaxation wash over you. Never have I been encouraged to drink as much water as I did that weekend in Delphi. It is pure mountain spring water which flows direct off the mountain straight into Delphi. Even if you don’t go there with a healthy attitude in mind, you will leave with the feel good factor. Call 095 42208 or check out www.delphimountainresort.com
■ Lyrath Estate Hotel
trip on the lake or swim in the 17metre infinity pool. Knowing how to coax kids to bed, cookies and milk can be sent up to the bedroom as night time treats. Adults are equally well looked after at Lyrath with the Oasis Spa being the most enticing facility. It boasts an enviable list of treatments and some therapists who have trained in the most reputable Spas in the world. You could easily pass a full day here. The bedrooms reflect the lavish style of the hotel with queen size beds, large marble bathrooms and flat screen TV’s in the bedroom. Some of the rooms have balconies with views over the original gardens.
For a real treat there is the penthouse that is larger than a typical apartment and kitted out with so many extras that make it difficult to leave. For night time entertainment we didn’t even have to venture outside the hotel as there is a cocktail bar, often with live music. This bar has a spacious smoking area also and attracts most of its guests for at least a nightcap or two. If you do want to venture into Kilkenny city there is a courtesy car to bring you down and collect you to bring you back to lovely Lyrath. Now that is what I call good service. To book a break at Lyrath Estate Hotel visit www.lyrath.com or call 056 7760088
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June 2009 SITM 15