Autumn 2009
Six seasonal suppers A-Z cupboard essentials WIN a dinner for four!
Veggie recipes to die for Australian wines around a tenner
PLUS boost your immunity, baking with kids, easy Italian entertaining
welcome
05
Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Editor’sLetter
A BeCreative Editorial Production www.becreative.ie Editor Kevin Flanagan kevin@becreative.ie Deputy Editors Jacqueline Strawbridge jackie@becreative.ie Ben Murnane ben@becreative.ie Design INM Design Studio studio@production.ie 048 3751 6005 Original Photography Nic Mac Innes nicmac@eircom.net Image Source www.iStockphoto.com Advertising Mediaforce Shane Treanor (01) 662 0710 streanor@mediaforce.ie Repro Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Ltd 27-32 Talbot St Dublin 1
A
utumn is here, and while some see this as the dreariest time of year – with the joys of summer over, the back-to-school rush and the weather taking a turn for the worse – LoveFood is here to brighten the season! As usual this issue we are all about value, with scrumptious autumn recipes that can be made with six ingredients or fewer, fantastic Australian wines for around €10,
and a look at how to get the most from your fresh vegetables. With winter approaching we also look at ways to ward off colds and sniffles using food and drink, and as the new school term arrives we have advice on the school lunchbox as well as tips for getting the little ones baking their own treats! Don’t forget to check out our blog at refood.wordpress.com to post your comments, recipes and suggestions.
And keep an eye out for Hell’s Kitchen Maître d’ Nick Munier’s new programme Nick’s Restaurant, coming soon to TV3, which should give an interesting behindthe-scenes look at setting up a restaurant in Dublin.
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Six Seasonal Suppers! Nicola Strawbridge cooks up six warming autumn wonders – each using six ingredients or fewer.
Get your kids baking with this magic muffin recipe from Nicola Strawbridge.
With autumn here and winter on the way, David Jørgensen looks at foods to ward off colds and sniffles.
Happy reading! Kevin Flanagan Editor
Contents
14
08 The A-Z of essentials for your kitchen cupboard.
10 Sean Crescenzi serves up a delicious Italian feast, while Eileen Dunne shares her Italian wine-buying tips.
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All the latest food news – plus, Gourmet Traveller Ed Finn visits Istanbul, and WIN one of four meals for four courtesy of CheapEats.ie.
20 Get the most from your veggies! We give you new ways to appreciate fresh, local, seasonal vegetables.
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22
Wine expert David Whelehan rates supermarket Australian wines for around a tenner.
LoveFood goes out and about, reviewing restaurants around the country.
contents
Keep them well-fed at school! Nutritionist Aoife Kirwan gives Collette Devlin some healthy alternatives for kids’ lunchboxes.
17
How much alcohol are you really consuming when you order that glass of wine? Ben Murnane speaks to wine lecturer Colin Byford to find out.
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
1
Lentil Soup This is an easy and quick supper for when you don’t have much time on your hands. Ingredients: (Serves 2-4) 750ml vegetable stock
A few handfuls of lentils 1 onion, diced
2 potatoes, diced 4 carrots, diced Method:
Simply add a couple of handfuls of lentils to the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and skim the surface if necessary. Add one diced onion, two largish diced potatoes, and four diced carrots. Season well. Simmer for 20 minutes – it’s ready when the veggies are tender. Blend, check for seasoning and serve – it’s that simple! Serve with wholemeal toast. There will be leftovers, which you can take into work to have for lunch the next day.
TopTip Try adding some dried chillies, lemon and cumin seeds to enhance the flavour and add warmth.
Mussels with Cider Sauce Mussels are amazing at this time of year – plump, orangey and begging to be steamed in a rich garlicky sauce. Try this slight variation on moules mariniere, made with dry cider.
2 Seasonal Six
Ingredients: (Serves 2) 2kg mussels
2 cloves garlic 50g butter
2-3 shallots
300ml of dry cider
A good handful of chopped parsley Method:
Suppers
Nicola Strawbridge cooks up six autumn feasts using six ingredients or fewer
S
ummer has come to a close and the leaves are turning brown on the trees, so it’s time to kiss goodbye to the barbecue and start some proper cooking. Using only
the finest seasonal ingredients, and what’s already in your store cupboard, here are six easy, seasonal suppers, each with six ingredients or fewer!
Wash the mussels thoroughly, scraping off barnacles and removing beards. Throw away any cracked mussels, and any that stay open (when cooked, throw away any that remain closed). In a large pot, melt the butter on a medium heat and add the finely diced shallot and garlic along with half the parsley. Cook without colouring for a minute or two before adding the cider and simmering for a minute longer. Turn the heat up, throw in the mussels and put the lid on the pot. Leave for three to five minutes, shaking occasionally. Check the pot and remove the mussels, placing in a warmed serving dish. Give the sauce a minute or two longer to reduce, then pour over the waiting mussels – be careful as there may be some grit at the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve immediately, with a baguette to tear up and dip in the sauce, and some extra bowls for the shells.
TopTip To make the sauce richer, add a tablespoon or two of double cream at the end.
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
3
5
Mushroom Risotto This is a great standby supper – it can be prepared in half an hour and always tastes great.
Sea Bass with a Pea Puree Sea bass is a versatile fish with a delicate flavour. Try this modern-day fish, chips, and mushy peas for a refreshing change.
Ingredients: (Serves 2-3)
Ingredients: (Serves 2)
200g Arborio rice
2 sea bass fillets, descaled and well seasoned
1-2 shallots, finely chopped, or half an onion
200g frozen peas, cooked according to packet instructions
1 small glass of white wine
2-3tbsp grated parmesan
20g dried porcini, plus a few fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced
25g butter
Parsley, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, roasted till sweet and soft
Small chunk of parmesan, grated
6 smallish potatoes
Method:
Method:
Soak the porcini in hottish water for 20 minutes, then drain and chop finely. Save the porcini water to use as stock. In a heavy-bottomed pan, add 15g of butter to a good slug of olive oil. Add the onion and cook till softened. Add the porcini and other mushrooms and cook for a minute or two longer. Add the rice, and stir well so that the grains get a good coating of oil. Chuck in the wine and let it bubble away till absorbed. Now for the boring bit – add the warm porcini stock, supplemented with some vegetable stock if needed, a ladleful at a time. When each ladleful is absorbed, add another. Carry on in this vein for 20 minutes or so. Keep checking the rice – it’s ready when it has a slight bite to it or is al dente. Take off the heat and stir in the parmesan, parsley and a knob of butter. Put the lid on the pan and leave for a few minutes. This improves the texture – you want it nice and oozy! Serve on warmed plates, maybe with a nice green salad.
Cut the potatoes into cubes and bring to the boil in salted water. As soon as they start to boil, drain and dry well, then drizzle with oil, salt and pepper and roast till golden brown in a hot oven (about 30 minutes). Meanwhile, make the pea puree by whizzing the peas, parmesan, butter and garlic in a blender till smooth. Season well and loosen with a little olive oil if needed. Heat a little oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the fillets, skin side down, for two minutes to get the skin nice and crispy. Turn over and cook for one more minute. Serve skin side up, on the warmed pea puree, with some crispy roast potatoes on the side.
TopTip Adding leftover chicken to this risotto is a great way to use up your Sunday roast.
TopTip
4
Autumn Lamb Baked with Aubergine Autumn lamb may seem like the poor cousin, but it is a great meat with a sweet, meltingly tender flavour. This aromatic dish makes the most of seasonal vegetables and warm spices to provide a hearty and yet simple supper.
Sprinkle a whole bulb of garlic with a little olive oil and sea salt, then wrap in foil and roast in a hot oven for half an hour. This takes away any harsh flavour, making the garlic sweet and flavoursome. Store in the fridge and use when needed.
Ingredients: (Serves 4)
Ingredients: (Serves 2)
4 thick lamb chops, at least 200g each 1 aubergine, cut into chunks
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Stuffed Spiced Squash Sweet, flavoursome squash is in abundance in the autumn. Part of the pumpkin family, it can be used in soups, stews and salads. Try this recipe for a filling, meat-free supper.
1 butternut squash, halved, with flesh and seeds scooped out and finely chopped
⁄2 red onion, finely diced
4 ripe tomatoes, quartered
1
4 cloves garlic, peeled and flattened but left whole
1 clove garlic, finely diced
A pinch or two of dried chilli 2 courgettes, sliced into thick diagonal rounds 1tsp cumin and coriander seeds, crushed, plus a good pinch of cinnamon
50g wild rice
Small handful of pine nuts Method:
Method:
Preheat the oven to 200°C. In an ovenproof dish, place the courgettes, tomatoes, aubergine and garlic. Add a good slug of olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Add the spices and shake well to make sure the vegetables are evenly covered. Bake for 30 minutes. Season the lamb and rub with a little olive oil, then add to the tray of vegetables. Bake, uncovered, for another 30 minutes. When the lamb is golden brown and the sweetly spiced smell is too much to bear, serve straight to the table with some fluffy couscous, maybe with some chopped almonds and apricots thrown in for extra flavour.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Cook the rice for 10 minutes in boiling salted water then put to one side. Sauté the onion and garlic till soft, then add the squash seeds and flesh, and the chilli. Cook for two more minutes and then stir in the rice and pine nuts. Season well, then pack tightly into the squash halves. Wrap the squash halves in tinfoil and roast for one hour or so, till the rice is cooked and the squash is soft.
TopTip Serve with dollops of spiced yoghurt, made by crushing coriander, cumin and chilli and mixing into creamy Greek yoghurt.
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
A B
Anchovies in olive oil – they add an amazing depth of flavour to so many dishes, and are lamb’s best friend. We couldn’t make a pasta sauce without one or two of these little gems. Beans and pulses – borlotti, cannellini, butter beans, lentils, chickpeas – just remember to soak overnight. Tinned are also great, and very handy.
C
Coconut milk or cream – always go for creamed coconut as you can use as much as you need, and the rest of the block will keep in the fridge for weeks.
D
Dried chillies – aside from pepper, the most-used spice in our kitchen. Use it to add heat to any dish, from soup to sausages.
E
Eggs – there is no faster lunch than an omelette. Try a Spanish-style omelette with potatoes, onions and chorizo, fluffed up in the oven – delicious served with a salad, or cold the next day.
F
Flour – plain, self-raising, cornflour, type 00 if you like to put the rest of us to shame by making your own pasta!
G
Garlic and ginger – perishable, yes, but no kitchen can survive without a good supply.
H
Herbs – dried or freshly grown on your windowsill, basil, rosemary, mint, parsley, chives and oregano are a good selection to have.
I
Indian and Middle Eastern Spices – the list is endless but we’d include cumin, coriander, fennel and fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns, cloves, star anise and cinnamon. You’ll also need a pestle and mortar for grinding to release flavour. Try to source from local, ethnic shops – you’ll tend to find them better quality, not to mention miles cheaper.
Your
A-Z
of Store Cupboard Essentials
A
well-stocked store cupboard is at the heart of any good kitchen. Keeping the right ingredients to hand means that you can prepare easy and delicious meals in minutes – buying only the freshest, seasonal produce to complement what you already have. Listed below is LoveFood’s guide to what you should have at home at all times, to make your life that little bit easier. Some items are perishable, but nonetheless, totally essential!
J
Jams, preserves and chutneys – the high sugar content means that they will keep for ages, properly stored.
K
Ketchup – yes, good old ketchup. Whether making Marie Rose, adding a bit of bite to chilli, or simply dipping your chips, you can’t live without it.
L
Lots of other sauces and condiments are essential too – fish sauce, oyster sauce, Tabasco and a hundred different types of soy, to name a few.
M
Mustard – wholegrain, Dijon, and English – for sandwiches, sauces, roasts, dressings and more.
N
Nutmeg – for béchamel, mashed potatoes and much more. Try to buy it whole and get a little grater if you can; nutmeg will stay much fresher this way.
O
Oils – extra virgin olive, groundnut, sesame and walnut to start off with.
P
Pasta – linguine and penne as a must, parpardelle and spaghetti too if you can. Good pasta sauces are essential; never be without a jar or two of pesto on the go.
Q
Quite what we’d do without dried mushrooms, we’re not sure. Our favourite store cupboard supper is mushroom risotto, made with good quality dried porcini. Soaked for half an hour then rinsed well, they have an amazing flavour – don’t forget to save the soaking liquor to use as stock.
R
Rice – Arborio, basmati and long grain should cover it.
S
Salt – Maldon sea and table. Stock – vegetable is essential, Marigold for preference.
T
Tinned tomatoes – plum, chopped, and sundried too.
U
Udon noodles – stir-fry some veg, some prawns, add a dash of fish sauce and some vegetable stock, toss in some udon noodles and supper is served! Udon is a wheat-based noodle usually served in a broth.
V
Vinegar – the Yang to oil’s Yin, you must have balsamic, wine and rice vinegar at least.
W
Worcestershire sauce – you just can’t have cheese on toast without it.
X
Xtremely important are olives and capers – they have many uses including plain old nibbling.
Y
Yoghurt – a breakfast essential. Have some plain and some Greek on the go for your smoothies and mueslis. It’s great for making quick dressings too.
Z
Zest – and juice – of fresh lemons and limes, for salad dressing, fish, pasta and more.
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
The
Market
Butchers
Traditional quality and service available 24/7
M
ichael Bermingham and Karl Freeman set up their first butcher shop in Drimnagh, Dublin in 1991, and what began as a retail business soon became a hugely successful wholesale operation. M&K Meats, Bermingham and Freeman’s wholesale company, has a diverse range of customers including supermarkets, high-end hotels, schools, cafes and delis – and an astonishing 98 per cent of the top restaurants in Dublin. “We’re very fortunate to supply the likes of Derry Clarke at l’Ecrivain, Ross Lewis in Chapter One and Richard Corrigan at Bentleys,” says Michael Bermingham. The Market Butchers
After years of being only in the wholesale business, Bermingham and Freeman are now once again offering their meat expertise and products to the general public, at The Market Butchers shop in Greenogue Business Park, Rathcoole, Co Dublin – and online at www.themarketbutcher.eu It is their experience working with top chefs that Bermingham cites as one of their greatest assets. “I have an obligation to get these chefs the
best produce. What I’ve learned over the past 18 years dealing with the top restaurants is how to prepare meats, how to cook meats, what ingredients go well with them.” Bermingham is also delighted to be working again in the retail side of things: “We love meeting people and dealing with the public. It’s just so enjoyable.” The team and their products
The Market Butchers are committed to combining traditional methods with the latest in quality-control procedures. All their meats are sourced from responsible Irish farms and are fully traceable, while the butchery team follow time-honoured methods of hanging and maturing to bring out that distinctive rich, farm-fresh flavour. What’s more, The Market Butchers offer terrific value, with prices up to 25 per cent lower than supermarkets and around 10 per cent lower than the average high-street butchers. The Market Butchers are also exclusive suppliers of products such as O’Doherty’s Organic Pork and Bacon range, and Connemara Hill Lamb – the only meat product in Ireland with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. “It’s a natural product,” says Bermingham, “superior to organic or free range, and a lot of the top-end restaurants are using it.” The lamb has a particular special taste and quality due to a diet of natural herbs, heathers and grasses unique to Connemara.
Opinion
Derry Clarke on The Market Butchers I have known Michael Bermingham for the last 20-odd years and he has been a supplier to l’Ecrivain since he opened his first butcher shop in 1991. Over the years we have worked well and hard to our mutual success. Michael sources the best of produce and ages, matures and butchers it in the traditional butcher’s way, all to enhance the finished product. Michael and his team of recognised master butchers always take on board the chef’s needs so that chef and butcher have a great understanding, which in itself is a recipe for success. Derry Clarke, Michelin-starred chef, l’Ecrivain restaurant, Dublin
service couldn’t be more convenient. “The website is in the early stages,” Bermingham comments. “Eventually we hope to have a few chefs on board to make recommendations about menus, dinner parties. “So if you were looking to wow your friends with a dinner party at home, and were looking for advice on what to do or the simplest way of doing it, you could email us and we’d email back suggestions.” At the moment The Market Butchers deliver in Dublin, Kildare and Meath but by the end of the year they hope it will be countrywide. Present and future
Bermingham, Freeman and The Market Butchers team continue to be actively involved in the culinary community. This year they were the meat sponsor for the Baileys Euro-toques Young Chef of the Year finale at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin. They also sponsor a cook school at the Lyons estate in Celbridge. Bermingham himself has recently been looking into cheaper, alternative cuts to compete with the likes of traditional fillet, striploin and rib eye. “We came up with some fantastic quality cuts, and I launched them in Bord Bia’s kitchens with Euro-toques chefs. We came up with a few alternative steaks which are tremendous cuts of meat, so that was exciting too.” Whether it’s an alternative cut or a traditional Sunday roast you’re looking for, an excellent homemade beef burger or exclusive Connemara Hill Lamb, you can find it at The Market Butchers – where experience, quality and service are always at the forefront.
Online
Bermingham and Freeman plan for the shop in Rathcoole to be the first of many branches of The Market Butchers. But they have also set up an innovative online ordering and delivery service – available at www.themarketbutcher.eu All The Market Butchers’ products are available through the website 24/7, prepared in exactly the same traditional, high quality way. With eating in and entertaining at home becoming increasingly important, the site’s deliver-to-your-door
Contact The Market Butchers Unit 11, Block G Greenogue Business Park Rathcoole Co Dublin Tel: (01) 458 0577 Email: info@themarketbutcher.eu Web: www.themarketbutcher.eu
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Young,
Italian and hungry S
ean is the 19-year-old son of Eileen Dunne and Stefano Crescenzi. A commerce student at UCD, Sean loves his friends, his gadgets, his music (and girls). Italian-style, he loves throwing together a supper for his mates before they head out for the night. Or he loves cooking for his friends even if they’re staying in. No surprise there, Mum and Dad run 12 restaurants in Dublin and beyond, from the chic Nonna Valentina on the banks of the Grand Canal in Portobello, to their bustling namesake enoteca on South Frederick St. Cooking comes naturally to Sean, who has clearly paid attention to what his parents have been building up throughout his formative years. “It’s dead easy to throw something together for my mates, and doesn’t take long at all,” says Sean. “I love the banter when I’m cooking with friends. You don’t have to go for a complicated recipe – it’s about the food, but it’s also just about getting together, eating together and having the craic.” One of Sean’s favourite easy dinner party recipes is bucatini amatriciana with tiramisu to follow. Try his recipes yourself, or get your man to cook it for you! A perfect night in, with no fuss and minimal effort.
”
“I love the banter when I’m cooking with friends. You don’t have to go for a complicated recipe – it’s about the food, but it’s also just about getting together, eating together and having the craic.”
GAROFALO PASTA FROM
GRAGNANO
THE HOME
OF ITALIAN PASTA
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009 Recipes Sean’s Bucatini Amatriciana Ingredients: 200g pancetta/Italian bacon, diced 200g pecorino cheese, grated 500g Garofalo bucatini pasta (or similar quality brand) 2 tins cherry tomatoes 4tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2tbsp balsamic vinegar Salt
Cara Eileen “I love my customers, and really listen to them – I get asked so many questions every day I’m in one of my restaurants, and a lot of them are about wine. Here are just a few to help you with your own food and wine matching at home.” Eileen Dunne I tend to stick to French Burgundies, Q even when I’m eating Italian food. Can you tell me what the Italian equivalents are?
Method:
Using a heavy-based pan sauté the pancetta in extra virgin olive oil, add the vinegar and turn up the gas for half a minute. Add the tomatoes and a level teaspoon of salt. Cook on a medium heat for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large saucepan of salted boiling water according to the instructions on the packet. Drain the pasta and place in a large serving dish. Add the sauce and cheese and serve immediately. Buon appetito!
m
One of my favourite wines is A Solleggio, Pallavicini, Lazio. It’s particularly good during the autumn and winter months, a perfect accompaniment to stews and roasts. If you have difficulty finding this one, then you can’t go wrong with a good Chianti Classico Riserva. My son is getting married to an Italian Q girl, and her parents are coming over to meet us. I’m cooking a big poached Irish
Terra d’Aligi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
salmon, but I want to match it with a good Italian wine. Which one is best? Sean’s Tiramisu Ingredients: 4 egg yolks 4 egg whites, stiffly beaten 150g caster sugar
Gavi di Gavi, Casa Brina
A
Gavi di Gavi, Casa Brina, Bava, Piedemont, is dry and sophisticated, and delicious. You’ll make a big impression with this: the in-laws will be talking about it for years afterwards! I’m going to make your antipasti and Q bruschetta at home for my book club night – I want a good, simple red to match it, that’s not too expensive.
400g mascarpone cheese 200g lady finger biscuits
The reasonably priced Montepulciano A d’Abruzzo, Terra d’Aligi, Cantine Spinelli, is suitably mellow with a kick. It’s
200ml freshly brewed strong cold coffee
ideal for those girly nights in.
200g bitter cocoa powder
I’m going to Positano for my holidays, Q and I know it’s good to taste the local wine. Which is best for that area?
Method:
Beat the egg yolks with the sugar, fold in the mascarpone cheese, fold in the egg whites. Take the lady finger biscuits and dip them one by one flat onto the coffee so that only half of the biscuit absorbs the coffee (this stops them from becoming soggy). Place a layer of the biscuits on the base of a rectangular casserole dish. Cover with mascarpone cream. Continue the layers until the ingredients are used up, finishing with the cream. Cover and refrigerate for at least three hours. Sprinkle with cocoa before serving.
m
Yes, when travelling in Italy you A should always choose the local regional wine. One of the best producers in this area is Feudi di San Gregorio. Musttries are their red Taurasi, Feudi di San Gregorio or their white Lacryma Christi. Enjoy! All wines mentioned above are available from Dunne & Crescenzi. See www.dunneandcrescenzi.com for details on this and all their restaurants
Lacryma Christi dei Feudi di San Gregorio
Taurasi dei Feudi di San Gregorio
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Lunchbox Lessons
Nutritionist Aoife Kirwan offers Collette Devlin some healthy alternatives for your child’s lunchbox
W
ith the new school year upon us parents are thinking about what foods are best to put into their kids’ lunchboxes. Only last month, the World Cancer Research Fund (WCRF) urged parents not to put ham sandwiches into their child’s lunchbox every day. According to Richard Evans, a spokesman for the charity, “there is convincing evidence that eating all sorts
of processed meat increases the risk of bowel cancer”. Another study at Southampton University found that artificial additives are connected to tantrums, poor concentration and slow progress at school. So the question remains, just what do you put in the lunchbox? And more importantly, how do you convince your child to eat healthily? If possible, children should adopt a healthy eating pattern from the age of five, viewing processed and sugary foods as an occasional treat. In reality, though, this is not always possible. The best way to introduce the healthy alternatives to your kids is one meal at a time – the more fun the option, the better! Nutritionist Aoife Kirwan advises parents to pack brain food in lunchboxes this term. “Lunch should supply your child with one third of his or her daily food requirements,” she says. “Omega 3 is an important brain food and because it cannot be produced in
the body we need to get it from food. A wealth of research has proven how it helps concentration, learning, healthy brain development and brain function.” According to Aoife, the simplest and most effective way to plan a healthy lunch is to place at least one item from each of the four food groups in your child’s lunch: cereals, bread and potato; fresh fruit and vegetables; dairy products; and the meat/fish group.
Lunchbox Food Groups Recommendations Cereals, bread and potato
Take one or more portions from this group – but note that depending on the age and activity level of the child, they will need extra portions from this group as they get older. 1 slice of wholemeal/wholegrain bread 1 slice of half wholemeal and white 1 brown finger roll or 1 wholegrain bap 1 brown bread scone 1 small wholemeal pitta 1 small wrap 2 wholemeal crackers/crispbreads 1 bagel 1 medium potato 2 tablespoons boiled rice, pasta, couscous or noodles Fresh fruit and vegetables
Take two portions from this group 1 medium-sized fresh fruit, e.g. orange, apple, banana, pear, 10 grapes 2 small fruits, e.g. kiwi, mandarin 1 ⁄2 glass unsweetened fruit juice Small bowl of salad vegetables, e.g. cherry tomatoes, lettuce, cucumber, carrot, celery, pepper 2 tablespoons cooked vegetables Homemade vegetable soup Dairy products
Take one portion from this group
⁄3 pint (190ml) milk 1 carton yoghurt 1oz (25g) cheddar/edam cheese 2 cheese singles 1 yoghurt drink (190ml) 1
Meat/Fish
Take one portion from this group 2oz (50g) lean cooked pork, lamb or beef 2oz (50g) chicken/turkey 2 eggs 3oz (75g) fish, e.g. tinned tuna, salmon, mackerel, sardines 1oz (25g) peanut butter 4oz (110g) baked beans
Lunchbox Planner Stuck for lunchbox ideas? Aoife offers some healthy suggestions in her packed lunch planner. Monday: Turkey with a teaspoon of cranberry sauce, lettuce and tomato on brown pitta bread; a glass of milk and a banana (in winter, the lettuce and tomato can be substituted with a flask of homemade vegetable soup). Tuesday: Brown roll with tinned salmon, sweetcorn and a teaspoon of low calorie salad cream; a carton of yoghurt and two small oranges. Wednesday: Two slices of wholegrain bread with 1oz of cheese, relish and cucumber; one carton of unsweetened fruit juice and an apple. Thursday: Pasta spirals with cherry tomatoes and tinned tuna; a chopped pepper with light vinaigrette dressing; yoghurt drink and 10 grapes. Friday: A small wrap with diced chicken, a teaspoon of pesto, rocket and bean sprouts – fold the wrap and cut in two; milk and a pear. Snacks and Alternatives “Depending on the child’s age and whether or not they are staying in for after-school activities, they may need to supplement their lunchboxes with extra portions of healthy foods,” explains Aoife. Here are some suggestions: Suitable drinks for children: Water Homemade vegetable soup Unsweetened fruit juices Milk Yoghurt drinks, smoothies Flavoured milks Snacks: Fruit scone Small box of raisins Nuts (ensure your children are used to eating nuts so there is no fear of choking – and be aware if anyone else in the class is allergic) Banana bread, fruit loaf, tea brack, barm brack Wholemeal biscuit, fig rolls
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Cooking with Kids
The
Magic Muffin
Nicola Strawbridge gets kids into the kitchen with some easy recipes
I
t’s great for children to get involved in the kitchen – learning about food and picking up basic skills like baking. It can be hard to inspire kids, though. So, we’ve come up with with some easy recipes that they can mess around with
by adding different ingredients and flavours. This recipe is pretty healthy, too: by replacing most of the fat with plain yoghurt, these muffins can be more of an everyday treat – for breakfast, the lunchbox or as a tasty dessert.
If you want to let your child make a more indulgent treat, then try this classic:
Recipe Rocky Road There’s little cooking involved here as the cake sets in the fridge. You can vary the ingredients to suit your taste or the kids’ as well. Ingredients: 400g bar milk or dark chocolate, or a mix – depending on taste 1 tin of condensed milk 100g butter
Recipe Basic Muffin Recipe Ingredients: Makes 8-12 340g plain flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp baking powder 200g caster sugar 2 eggs, beaten 50g butter, melted and cooled 300ml plain yoghurt Method:
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a muffin tin with paper cases or, better still, use silicone moulds. Sift all the dry ingredients into a bowl, and make a well in the middle. Mix the wet ingredients together and gradually incorporate into the well, mixing to a smooth batter – you may need to use a splash or two of milk if it’s too thick. Be careful not to over-mix though as this can make for tough muffins. Mix in your chosen ingredients – see below – and then divide the mixture between the muffin cases. Bake in the centre of the oven for 20-25 minutes or until the muffins are springy to the touch. Cool on a wire rack before digging in!
m
Now for the good stuff... Simply add in any of the ingredients below to create your favourite kind of muffin. Blueberry – Add half a punnet of blueberries to the batter, then stud the rest of the blueberries on top before baking. Amazing served with a dollop of yoghurt. My favourite! Banana Nut – Add two ripe mashed bananas, and a generous handful of chopped nuts. Cinnamon Raisin – Add 120g of raisins and two teaspoons of ground cinnamon. Zesty Orange and Poppy Seed – Add the zest of two oranges plus the juice of one – use a little less yoghurt in this one. Also great with lemon or lime. Chocolate Chip – Add 150g chocolate chips and a tablespoon or two of cocoa powder. Toffee Pecan – Add crushed pecans and a small dollop of toffee sauce to each. Muesli – Use wholemeal flour and add your favourite muesli, plus some chopped dried fruit, for a tasty breakfast treat.
So, you get the picture – you can add almost anything. Let the kids decide! They can each make different flavours for all the family to try. These muffins can be made two days in advance – they keep well when stored in an airtight container.
1 medium bag of bite-size marshmallows 1 small tub of glace cherries A handful of roughly chopped almonds or walnuts 1 packet of digestive biscuits – 300g approx – roughly crushed with a rolling pin A handful of raisins A handful of dessicated coconut
Method:
Melt the chocolate and the butter together in a bowl, suspended over a pan of simmering water. This can also be done in the microwave on a medium heat. Once melted, add the condensed milk and mix thoroughly. Take the chocolate mixture off the heat and add in the digestive biscuits and all the other ingredients. Mix well. You can add as little or as much as you like of the other ingredients. Spread the mixture into a shallow tray lined with cling film, flatten out, and place in the fridge to set for an hour or two. Once set, cut into squares and dust with icing sugar. A fantastic treat for mum and dad too with a cup of tea!
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Breaking News Drink up at SeptemberFest 2009 SeptemberFest, Ireland’s premier independent drinks festival, returns to Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin on Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th September from 11.30am to 6.30pm. Organised by Bord Bia in conjunction with the Office of Public Works, it promises to be a feast of food, drink, music, entertainment and fun for all ages – and best of all entry is free! Now in its second year, SeptemberFest showcases the very best of independent microbreweries, cider-makers, distillers and liqueur companies, with a host of artisan food producers onsite as well, plus live music and street entertainers. For more log on to www.bordbia.ie
Gourmet Traveller Ed Finn spent four incredible days in Istanbul Istanbullus are very proud of their national cuisine – and what a cuisine it is! Local eateries compete with each other to produce the most amazing meze (Turkish hors d’oeuvres or tapas), the freshest possible seafood and the juiciest kebabs you will ever taste. Food here is a national pastime and you can eat at any time of the day or night. Restaurants are always teeming with large groups of locals, usually also enjoying a bottle or two of Raki, the local tipple. Turkish food has a rustic and traditional base; locally produced ingredients are used when in season and always treated with great respect. You truly feel like a welcome guest in someone’s home when visiting Istanbul. This city is surely for me the ‘delight’ in Turkish delight! Where to eat: Sofyali 9, Haci Baba, Refik, Boncuk (try the excellent yoghurt and mint salads). For amazing views try Leb-i derya. Don’t miss the delicious stuffed potatoes and fresh fruit desserts served by street vendors near the Ortakoy Mosque (also one of the best departure points for short cruises on the Bosphorus). How to get there: Turkish Airlines fly daily from Dublin to Istanbul direct – www.thy.com Where to stay: I stayed in the new Titanic City Hotel in Taksim – www.titanic.com.tr. Abbey Travel specialise in packages to Istanbul and offer great value three-night trips for just €299 plus taxes – see www.abbeytravel.ie or call (01) 804 7100. Information on Istanbul is also available from www.tourismturkey.org Contact Ed at ed@becreative.ie
Locke’s Distillery Kilbeggan
Experience Oktoberfest – in Dublin! Get set to experience the world-famous German Oktoberfest at the Dublin Docklands from 8th-18th October 2009. For the second year running, the original Paulaner Oktoberfest will come from Germany to Dublin. Paulaner is one of only six beers permitted to exhibit at Munich’s legendary Oktoberfest. Visited by over 70,000 people last year, the Dublin Paulaner Oktoberfest has become one of the highlights of the autumn calendar. A marquee representative of that in the Munich Oktoberfest, German markets, as well as over 24 Munich barmaids will descend on George’s Dock for some German fun, food, entertainment and authentic Bavarian beer. Don’t miss it!
Ireland’s Whiskey Trail Ireland is credited with invented whiskey – and yet, according to renowned independent whiskey expert Heidi Donelon, we have not promoted ourselves as a whiskey destination. Heidi’s solution is the Ireland Whiskey Trail. This is the ultimate guide to everything that is best about whiskey in Ireland. The Ireland Whiskey Trail includes Irish distilleries and whiskey museums, plus the best whiskey pubs, hotel bars and shops around the country. For more go to www.irelandwhiskeytrail.com
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Breaking News
Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
National Organic Week is coming The winners of Bord Bia’s National Organic Awards 2009 will be announced on Thursday 10th September. Now in their third year, the awards aim to recognise the achievements and raise the profile of Irish organic food and drink manufacturers. The fourth annual National Organic Week will take place from 14th-20th September. Funded by the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food and co-ordinated by Bord Bia, National Organic Week aims to continue to raise consumer awareness of organic food, how to recognise it when shopping and where to buy it. For a full list of events around the country and organic recipes log on to www.bordbia.ie
Win a Dinner for Four People! Value and Choice at CheapEats.ie
Winter sun breaks Tastes of New York This autumn you can take a food tour of New York with the Enthusiastic Gourmet (www.enthusiasticgourmet.com), filled with the different tastes, aromas and traditions around the Lower East Side. What better time to take a trip to New York than when the dollar is doing so well against the euro? With cheap flights, cheap shopping and superb restaurants, New York is a terrific autumn destination. The official tourist board website for NYC, www.nycgo.com, is a great source of information for all things Big Apple, including the best restaurants to suit any budget.
Why not try a luxury Mediterranean cruise this year instead of the usual winter break? Topflight are offering a culinary as well as cultural experience, 11 nights and 11 different tastes – Barcelona, Morocco, Tenerife, Funchal, Malaga, Rome and Genoa, as well as superb on-board cuisine with Italian chefs. Four restaurants, 20 bars, sumptuous buffets, savoury snacks, gala dinners and fine wines and you can enjoy all this from only €789pps, plus flights. For those who love wine, there’s a winter Lake Garda ‘Stay and Explore Holiday’ that includes a wine tour, honey tasting, visits to Venice and Verona, and a boat trip on Lake Garda tasting wonderful Italian delights, from only €889pps including flights, half board and gala dinner. For more information go to www.topflight.ie or call (01) 240 1700.
Eat at the Chef’s Table Enjoy a one-of-a-kind meal at Chapter One restaurant on Parnell Square at the Chef’s Table, where you can sample the best the delicious menu has to offer, courtesy of Michelin-starred head chef Ross Lewis. Groups of six people can spend an evening, whether it’s a birthday, a business occasion or just a girly night in the city, having an eight-course taster menu meal, with a complimentary glass of Champagne, for €85 per person. “I explain each course and talk about how it is made,” says Ross. “It can be an eye-opener sitting in a professional kitchen.” Call (01) 873 2266 or email info@chapteronerestaurant.com
LoveFood editor Kevin Flanagan (second from right) and guests enjoy the Chef’s Table at Chapter One
The recession has led to an explosion in early bird offers, lunch deals, and special menus. Whether your budget is €10 or €100, you can find great value offers and deals at food website CheapEats.ie. Its sister site, CheapEats Classifieds, collects and displays special offers from Irish restaurants and hotels. The offers are open to everyone: no need to register! Here, you’ll find great deals from restaurants such as Saba, Jo’Burger and Milano, as well as offers from hotels such as the Woodlands in Co Limerick and Dunboyne Castle in Co Meath. Log on to www.cheapeats.ie/ classifieds for more specials. Win One of Four Dinners for Four People at Milano! Milano, a popular Italian restaurant with branches throughout the country, are currently running two special offers: a two-for-one deal in association with the Irish Independent; and a lunch special, where you can pick up any pizza, pasta, or salad, plus a drink, for €12.50. You’ll find Milano throughout Dublin, as well as in Cork, Galway, Limerick, and Killarney. To celebrate these special offers, Milano have teamed up with CheapEats Classifieds to give away four dinners for four people, with a bottle of wine. To win one of these four prizes, simply log on to www.cheapeats.ie and leave a comment on our LoveFood/Milano competition post. Terms posted on CheapEats.ie. Good luck!
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Australian Wines around a tenner
We sample supermarket wines from Australia with wine expert David Whelehan
A
ustralia produces some of the most popular wines in the world, with regions like the Barossa Valley known for deep, rich Shiraz and Australian Chardonnay also being a big seller. Shiraz is the classic red grape variety of Australia. “With Shiraz you’re looking for lovely spicy red and black fruit aromas, maybe hints of liquorice, with a little bit of evolution so you maybe get more leather and more spice character coming through as well,” says wine expert David Whelehan. Australian Chardonnay is often simply cheap and cheerful, offering value below the €10 mark. Australia also provides good climates for grape varieties that are less well-known here, such as Sémillon, for which the
Hunter Valley is notable, and Grenache. Grenache is one of the grape types used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape – it’s blended with other varieties to make many wines – though “it’s quite unusual to make wine from it individually”, David explains. With strong New World contenders like Chile and Argentina offering terrific value at less than €10 – and a resurgence in great value wines from countries like Spain – cheaper Australian wines are being given a run for their money in terms of the quality available for the price you’re paying, David tells us. Nevertheless, we managed to gather a selection of highly drinkable, fantastic value Australian reds and whites, readily available from your local supermarket. Enjoy!
Lidl
Marks & Spencer
Superquinn
O’Briens
Cimarosa Shiraz 2008, €5.49
M&S Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2008, €12.49
Peter Lehmann Barossa Grenache 2005, €8.55
Taltarni T Series Victoria Shiraz 2006, €12.99
Peter Lehmann is one of the master winemakers of Australia’s famous Barossa. This wine is unwooded to bring out the berry flavours and is ideally served with lighter foods such as pasta, pizza or even fish.
This Shiraz punches well above its weight in terms of quality. Matured for 12 months in a combination of French and American oak, it can be enjoyed young or kept comfortably for four or five years.
David says: This is a straightforward easy-
The Hunter Valley is one of Australia’s best-known and well-established wine regions, producing wines with ripe, fruity and powerful flavours. This wine is 100 per cent Hunter Valley Chardonnay, aged in French oak barrels for six months.
drinking Shiraz with ripe black fruit character, hints of spice and a deep red colour.
David says: Grenache never has deep colours;
David says: This is a beautiful wine from the
David says: This is an impressive wine. It’s
it has typically soft red fruit character. This is a classic wine – very plummy. It’s rich, juicy and velvety. This is for when it’s slightly cold outside and you’re sitting in at the fire.
cooler climate of Victoria. It has a real depth of colour; it’s rich and multifaceted on the nose. Mulberry fruit character with lovely spices and hints of oak. A great food wine too.
Rating:
Rating:
Shiraz is the most-loved Australian grape variety and this wine hails from the southeast of the country, where wine production dates back to the end of the 18th century.
Rating:
Aldi Bushland Reserve Chardonnay 2008, €7.19
Aldi’s Bushland range is a selection of reds, whites and rosés available in their 67 stores nationwide. Produced in the renowned vineyards of the Hunter Valley, north of Sydney, this Chardonnay can be served immediately or kept for up to three years. David says: Tinned pineapple character –
ripe, sweet fruit, a little bit of peach, a nice freshness. A little bitterness on the finish. It’ll go well with food; lightly chilled it’s going to be perfect for a night in with friends. Not a very serious wine, just a pleasurable wine. Rating:
got a nice refreshing acidity. It’s not heavy, it has a degree of elegance about it. Fresh pineapple fruit character – it’s quite zesty, quite rounded on the palate. Delicious. Rating:
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
What’s
in a
glass?
How much alcohol are you really consuming when you order that glass of wine in a restaurant or a pub? Ben Murnane spoke to wine lecturer Colin Byford to find out
W
e’ve all heard of units of alcohol – those allimportant measurements telling us how much we’re allowed to drink for a healthy lifestyle. It’s recommended that men take in no more than 21 units per week while women rack up no more than 14. A unit of alcohol is deemed to be a ‘standard drink’ – a glass/half pint of beer (284ml), a small glass of wine (100ml) or a pub measure of spirits (35.5ml). The human body can usually dispose of around one unit of alcohol an hour. So, if you’re in the pub and you
drink a pint of beer, it takes on average two hours to leave your system. All wines, beers and spirits, however, are obviously not of the same alcoholic strength – and when you’re in a restaurant and you order a glass of wine, how can you really tell how much is in it? Keeping tabs on your alcohol level is more complicated than it seems at first! “A standard drink is supposed to give you 10 grams, or 12mls, of pure alcohol,” wine lecturer Colin Byford explains, “that’s a unit.” It rarely works out that you’ll get exactly 12mls per drink, however. “If for example you’re drinking a lager that has 4.5 per cent alcohol, that’s going to give you nearly 14mls of alcohol per glass/half pint, but it’s still pretty close.” It gets more complicated when it comes to wine. Depending on what you order, one glass of wine can have almost twice the alcohol level of another. “A 100ml glass, depending on the wine, would give you anything from 8mls of alcohol up to 15mls. “A light German Riesling would be about 8 per cent so that’s 8mls per glass. A big
One Standard Drink
One d dar Stan k Drin
= = One d dar Stan k Drin
A glass of stout/lager/cider (284ml) A small glass of wine (100ml) A pub measure of spirit (35.5)
Australian Shiraz, on the other hand, is going to be about 15 per cent, sometimes as high as 15.5 per cent alcohol, so that’s 15mls or more you’re getting per 100ml glass.” Whites generally contain around 12 per cent alcohol while reds are higher at 1215 per cent. Just to throw another spanner in the works, however – it would be rare to find a restaurant that will serve you a 100ml glass of wine. Restaurants generally get six glasses to the bottle, which works out at 125ml per glass. “The little quarter bottles you get in the pub are 187ml, so there’s nearly two standard drinks in one of those, around two
Did you know? The type of glass used can significantly affect the flavour of your wine. Colin says: “Certain glasses work better for different wines in terms of highlighting the aromas. For example, the tall thin champagne flute is best for champagne because it gives minimal surface area for the bubbles to escape. The big wide champagne glasses are actually the worst possible glasses for champagne! Rounder styles of glasses are better for reds because they keep in the aromas.”
One d dar Stan k Drin
10g of pure alcohol
units of alcohol – roughly the same as a pint of beer.” Colin adds: “The real killer is having wine from a bottle where the glass is frequently topped up. It is very easy to lose track. Finish the glass before pouring another.” The important thing when getting your 21 (for men) or 14 (for women) units a week is not to use them all up on a Friday night. There is evidence now to suggest that people who have one or two drinks regularly actually live healthier lives than those who don’t drink at all. The National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism in the US reports that moderate drinkers on average live longer than abstainers, while Harvard research indicates that moderate drinkers decrease their risk of heart disease by 20 per cent or more. These benefits disappear, however, if one or two drinks a night becomes 10! It’s also recommended that you have at least one or two alcohol-free days a week. “Although alcohol is strictly speaking toxic, in small quantities it seems to have a beneficial effect,” Colin concludes. So, watching your units and knowing exactly what’s in your wine glass is important if you have an eye on your health. Visit Colin Byford’s website at www.southdublinwine.com For more about alcohol units go to www.drinkaware.ie
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Boost your Body As autumn and winter approach, David Jørgensen finds out which foods help ward off colds and sniffles
W
hile the threat of swine flu is rarely far from our minds, not every sniffle or sneeze will be the sign of impending infection by the pandemic. As it does its rounds, the likelihood of getting a cold is probably increased for most of us. Unfortunately, it would seem that scientists are still searching for a cure for the common cold, and whilst there is a myriad of man-made solutions available from pharmacies and supermarkets (a multimillion euro industry in itself), it’s also the case that watching what we eat and drink can help in the fight to keep infections away. Certainly, the foods we consume form an essential part in building up our immune systems and preventing us getting colds and flu. Once you have a cold, taking in the right fluids and eating properly can help you beat it quicker. Scientific research is continually producing evidence showing the natural benefits found in common foods and plants. A study in the US recently demonstrated the immunity-boosting properties of the humble mushroom. One popular cold remedy is echinacea,
available in many forms, including as a tea. Long regarded by many as a way of warding off the onset of a cold, recent research has shown that the plant can indeed have a positive effect in actually treating a cold, reducing coughs, headaches and nasal congestion.
Below are our tips on what to eat and drink to help keep colds away, and to get rid of them quickly once they arrive. Remember, though, none of these is a substitute for your GP! Watch your health and consult your doctor if you are at all worried.
Food is your armour: keeping colds at bay
Chilli and Ginger
Natural Yoghurt
These are also great ingredients to add to food to promote healing.
The intestines contain more than two thirds of the body’s immunity cells – and there’s hardly a better way to keep them happy than with a good probiotic yoghurt.
Mushrooms
Drinking plenty of water is one of the best things you can do if you're suffering from a cold or flu. Dehydration wears you down and makes you more prone to infection.
A recent study by Dr Keith Martin at Arizona State University found that mushrooms are a natural immune system booster. The common white button mushroom even appeared to be better in this regard than the likes of shitake or oyster mushrooms.
Echinacea
Pumpkin Seeds
Echinacea is commonly used to avoid colds, but could also be effective at treating them once developed. It’s available in many forms, including liquid extracts and as a tea.
Pumpkin seeds are rich in zinc, a mineral which many of us do not get enough of.
Elderberry
...and other fruits and green vegetables that are sources of essential vitamin C.
Water
An antiviral plant, elderberry can be taken in liquid form to help treat colds and prevent the buildup of catarrh. Chicken Soup
The classic cold-and-flu food. James Wong, presenter of the hit BBC show Grow Your Own Drugs, combines chicken soup with goji berries for an effective way of treating colds. Garlic
Add garlic to your cooking wherever possible. Two cloves a day are recommended to boost immunity. You can even mash it onto toast in the morning!
Certainly, the foods we consume form an essential part in building up our immune systems and preventing us getting colds and flu
”
Blackcurrants, Kiwis, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Oranges
Lemon and Honey
The traditional Irish cure for a cold, a hot toddy, can just include honey for the throat and lemon for the sniffles and vitamins. But of course, a dash of whiskey can also help to clear the sinuses! It is vital that you consult your GP before attempting to use any natural remedy to treat any condition.
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Make the most of your
veggies
Whether you have embraced the retro joy of growing your own, or are simply taking advantage of what is in abundance in the supermarket, LoveFood gives you some new ways to appreciate good, local, seasonal vegetables Beetroot
Aubergines
Beetroot is a fantastic, earthy root vegetable with the most amazing colour. It is traditionally eaten pickled, but there are many other uses. Freshly Juiced – If you are lucky enough to own a juicer, try squeezing fresh beetroot. Bursting with vitamins and minerals, it’s great for cleansing the liver and boosting your iron levels. Try mixed with carrot, apple and fresh ginger for a fantastic morning treat. Roasted – Roast whole beetroots with a little salt and maybe some rosemary for an hour or so, then dress with a little white wine vinegar. Delicious served with some fresh crumbled goats’ cheese or feta, or as a side dish for roast lamb or chicken. Horseradish – Horseradish is already roast beef’s best friend, but try mixing some pureed roasted beetroot with readymade creamed horseradish for an interesting twist on the Sunday favourite. It’s delicious!
Fat, shiny, purple aubergines are in abundance at the minute. Here are a few ideas to use them up… Roasted – Simply sliced thickly and roasted with a little oil and some rosemary, aubergine makes a great partner for roast lamb. Ratatouille – The traditional vegetable stew is a warming, hearty treat when the long nights draw in. Soften a couple of cloves of garlic with an onion in a splash of olive oil. Add one aubergine, sliced into half moons; two courgettes, sliced into rounds; and two red peppers, cut into chunks. When these are softened, add a can of chopped tomatoes and season well. Simmer for 30-40 minutes. Taste to check for seasoning, then add a handful of chopped parsley. Delicious served hot or cold, with wholegrain rice or as an accompaniment to meat. Stuffed – Halve an aubergine and roast for half an hour to soften. When ready,
scoop out the flesh, reserving the shell. Chop the flesh and add to a pan of softened onions, garlic, chopped peppers and rice. Add back into the aubergine shell, top with a little crumbled feta, and bake for a further half an hour. Served with a green salad, this makes a wonderful meat-free supper. Figs
We love it when we go to the greengrocer and there is a glut of ripe figs, sweetly bursting out of their skins. We always pick up a big bagful – they are cheap, flavoursome and are great for sweet and savoury dishes. Baked figs – A really simple dessert. Halve or quarter some figs, drizzle with honey and scatter on a few pine nuts. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes, then serve with ricotta cheese. This is also great with some Greek yoghurt for breakfast, or as an accompaniment to a cheeseboard.
Fig, parma and mozzarella salad Make a seasonal salad for an autumn dinner party, like our fig salad. This stylish modern starter takes two minutes to throw together and the taste sensation will leave your guests begging for more. Serve with some fresh crusty bread for mopping up the delicious juices. Method:
Quarter some figs – one per person is fine – and arrange on a plate with slices of parma ham and a ripped up ball of mozzarella. Scatter with torn basil leaves, a handful of toasted pine nuts and the zest of a lemon. Then dress simply with olive oil and lemon juice shaken together. Serve in the middle of the table, so everyone can dig in and enjoy!
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Irish Independent
LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
Meaty Tips from The Market Butcher It’s natural
This issue’s recipe is a Connemara Hill Lamb burger. It is the only lamb product in Ireland with PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Connemara hill lamb is indigenous to the region and matures at a slower rate, gaining the benefits of the natural habitat The result is a lamb of specialised taste, quality and flavours due to a diet of natural herbs, heathers and grasses unique to the region west of the Corrib system. ENJOY! Michael
The Market Butchers Cumin-Spiced Connemara Hill Lamb Burger with Rocket, Rosemary Aioli & Tomato Chutney What you need For the burgers 1kg minced Connemara Hill Lamb
For the next few issues, Michael Bermingham from The Market Butchers will be dishing out his advice on all things meat and providing you with tasty recipes to try at home. If you have any queries or questions you want to ask, email ben@becreative.ie
⁄2tsp cumin powder
1
1tbsp tomato paste
⁄2 onion, diced
For the rosemary aioli
1
1 jar mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, crushed
4 large sprigs fresh rosemary
⁄2tsp salt
To make 1. For the burgers, sauté the onion and
⁄2tsp black pepper
garlic in a little oil then leave to cool. Next, mix these with the Connemara Hill Lamb mince and all the other ingredients. This recipe should make eight burgers. Place the burgers on a hot barbecue and cook them for two minutes on each side. Leave them longer if you would like them well done. 2. For the dressing, sauté the shallot and garlic in a little olive oil in a heavy saucepan. Add all the other ingredients and slowly simmer for 20-30 minutes, then season. 3. For the aioli, mix the mayonnaise and rosemary and leave in a covered jar for two days, then remove the rosemary sprigs.
1
1
1tsp chopped parsley For the dressing 1 cup of rocket, dressed with a little olive oil 2 chopped plum tomatoes 1 shallot, diced 1 garlic clove, crushed
⁄2tsp tomato paste
1
To serve 1tbsp brown sugar 2tsp white wine vinegar
Place a burger in a bun and add a teaspoon of tomato chutney. Place the dressed rocket on top then add a teaspoon of the aioli.
Michelin-starred chef Derry Clarke of l’Ecrivain restaurant with Michael Bermingham at Taste of Dublin
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LOVEFOOD Autumn 2009
LOVEFOOD
Out&About
Hampton Hotel Bar Bistro
Avoca Fern House Cafe
The four-star Hampton is an exquisitely stylish boutique hotel in Donnybrook – the white Georgian facade gives no hint of the eclectic, almost psychedelically colourful and chic design inside. The Bar Bistro at Hampton has a relaxed feel, soft darker colours contrasting with much of the design elsewhere. I wandered in here recently for lunch before the one o’clock rush, checking out the traditional and fairly pub-grub-styled menu: options included Caesar salad, pork and apple sausages with mash, beer-battered fresh cod fillet, Irish stew, and mild chicken curry. Just as the Georgian facade hides the chic interior, however, the fairly ordinary-seeming menu at Hampton hides the fact that the food is exceptionally well made. Classics are done to perfection. I ordered the surf and turf (€14.95), and it was one of the finest I’ve ever tasted: prawns beautifully sautéed, steak fresh and juicy, and the mashed potatoes deliciously rich and creamy but not too heavy. The early bird special here is also impressive value for a four-star hotel: two courses for €16 or three courses for €21.50 between 5.30pm and 7.30pm. Overall, this is a gem.
Avoca is famous for its cafe food, standout salads and delicious breads. The Fern House Cafe at Avoca in Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow is a different kind of beast, a ‘proper restaurant’ taking traditional Avoca quality to a new level. The first thing that stood out for us was the beautiful setting itself; with lilies, fern trees, tropical palms and orange plants looming large it has the feel of a Georgian arboretum, and with massive windows it seems to blend seamlessly into the garden outside. The restaurant has a bright, ‘ladies who lunch’ atmosphere and while the lunch menu is not the cheapest around it is full of quality. With four in our party we had Chargrilled Tuna Loin on Wilted Spinach with a Tomato, Pine-nut, Raisin & Olive Salsa (€16.95), Honey-glazed Loin of Bacon with Creamed Savoy Cabbage, Mashed Potato & Parsley Sauce (€16.95), the Organic Beef Burger with Chunky Chips Cooked in Duck Fat
Hampton Hotel 19-29 Morehampton Road Donnybrook Dublin 4 T: (01) 668 0995 www.hamptonhotel.ie Rating:
The Town Hall Restaurant Adjacent to (and part of) The Old Ground Hotel, The Town Hall Restaurant in the heart of Ennis is a contemporary and elegant venue, and was the perfect location for a recent hen night dinner. Our group of 18 was warmly greeted on arrival and seated together at beautifully laid tables surrounded by modern art works. We ate from the a la carte menu, which is packed with fresh fish and an excellent range of meats, and the night’s ‘Evening Specials’. Being a lover of seafood, I had the panseared scallops to start, which were served with a delicious cauliflower and bay leaf sauce, Clonakilty black pudding and scallion puree (€10.50). The main courses were equally mouth-watering. My chargrilled sirloin steak on scallion and chive creamed potato (€26.00) was cooked to perfection and the beer-battered onions rings were wonderful.
The Town Hall Restaurant also serves lunch with a mixture of modern bistro-style dishes and tea-room fare. The Town Hall Restaurant The Old Ground Hotel Ennis Co Clare T: (065) 689 2333 Rating:
(€14.95) and the Avoca Fish Pie (€14.95). All went down exceptionally well. The wine options are extensive too and it’s a good spot for breakfast. The Fern House Cafe Avoca Handweavers Kilmacanogue Co Wicklow T: (01) 274 6990 www.avoca.ie Rating:
Grogan’s of Glasson Nothing can beat Mother’s home-cooked Sunday lunch – or can it? We decided to take the lady in question out for a Sunday treat. Arriving too late for lunch, which was booked out, we sampled a quick drink in the adjoining traditional bar before dinner service started. As we were brought through to our table, I couldn’t help but notice that the restaurant wing was a conservatory-type extension, with the original old stone in view, adding to the authenticity of this oldstyle venue. The specials menu and the evening menu supplied a comprehensive list of traditional Irish meals and contemporary European dishes that included interesting seafood assortments, steak, a poultry selection and vegetarian options. Our three starters of mussels, prawns and local pigeon (which ranged from €6.50 to €7.95) were appetising and served with delectable homemade brown bread. And yes – the pigeon actually tasted good! Our mains – pork belly with root vegetables and divine herb gravy, traditional steak, and juicy Aylesbury duck (priced between €16.95 and €26) – were equally delicious and so filling we could barely finish. This is a
popular family venue that serves quality food at great value. Grogan’s of Glasson Athlone Co Westmeath T: (090) 648 5158 Rating: