Nissan Western Adventure Magazine

THE GREAT

Western Adventure Your ultimate guide to visiting Ireland’s west, northwest & southwest

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INSIDE MILY EST FA

In association with

THE B TIVITIES AC RING U O T P TEN TOOUTES R ARS’ S T S H S I IR PLACE E T I R U FAVO MER M U S R YOU AL GUIDE FESTIV Footpath, Skellig Michael, Co Kerry

Contents

Benbulben and Dartry Mountain Range, Co Sligo

04 Ten top touring routes along the Wild Atlantic Way Enjoy gorgeous scenery and the thrill of the open road PLUS find out about the Wild Atlantic Way Passport

06 Top of the lot If you’re visiting areas in or near the northwest this summer, make sure you don’t leave without trying some of these fun, unique family activities

10 Swing on down Like the northwest, the mid- and southwest have an abundance of highlights for families – here is our selection

11 Star of the west Well-known faces talk about some of their favourite places

Into the west Welcome to our special magazine covering destinations and events in Ireland’s west, northwest and southwest.

Whether you are travelling along the Wild Atlantic Way, going hiking in Connemara, surfing in Donegal, or experiencing history come to life at a place like Cork City Gaol – there is so much to do in these regions, it’s hard to know where to start. That’s where this magazine comes in!

We’ve brought together a selection of some of the highlights from this part of the world. Starting on page 6, we’ll take you county by county from Donegal, through the west to the southwest – offering some choices for top family adventures and activities. But don’t forget to enjoy the drive as you go! Pages 4 and 5 present 10 of the top touring routes along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Elsewhere in the supplement, you can read about visiting some of the islands off the west coast, as well as the thoughts of some top Irish celebrities on their favourite places, great dining tips for foodies, and an interview with two artists about what makes the west so inspiring.

Finally, you’ll find a short guide to some top festivals and events over the summer – so you can plan your trip around a special occasion!

We hope you enjoy the read.

Ben Murnane, Editor

12 Escape to an island The spectacular views and brisk sea air of the islands around the west coast have made them some of Ireland’s most popular tourist destinations

13 Food for thought From the freshest of fish dishes to fine dairy ice-cream, we’ve chosen some of the eating houses where you’ll want to savour every bite

14 A land of colour and creation The west of Ireland has a long association with the arts – two Connemara-based artists give their take on what makes the landscape so inspiring

15 Take a detour – see what you will find There are many great festivals and events taking place in the west over the summer, to add fun and excitement to your trip

A BeCreative Editorial Production www.becreative.ie Editor: Ben Murnane Deputy Editor: Clodagh Dooley Contributor: Shauna McCrudden Advertising: Philip Wharton (01) 705 5445 Design: Robert Armstrong, INM Design Studio, Belfast Repro: Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited, 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Coasteering on the Wild Atlantic Way (far left); Bantry House & Gardens, West Cork (centre left, top); Fanad Lighthouse, Co Donegal; sea stack climbing, Co Donegal; cycling country roads; the Burren, Co Clare

‘WHY I LOVE THE WEST’ Some visitors from around Ireland share their views “I used to cycle at a high level – heading to the west of Ireland and bringing the bikes led to such a beautiful change of scenery.

The Burren’s often moon-like landscape makes the miles fly by, and takes your mind off the hard cycling you’re doing.”

Ciarán Ó Conluain, Co Dublin “The west of Ireland is a place I have visited many times, in particular north Connemara.

Each time I go there, my soul is touched and my spirits are lifted when, upon leaving Oughterard, en route to Letterfrack, the majestic Twelve Bens in all their seasonal colours rise up before my eyes. It is a wild, rugged and desolate landscape which takes

your breath away and leaves you with an overwhelming feeling of awe and wonder.

That is why I keep returning.”

Alice Lawless, Co Dublin “My favourite place in the west of Ireland would have to be Salthill in Co Galway. It’s where a lot of my family summer holidays were spent, even if it was just for a day trip. It has everything you could want in a seaside holiday and more – the beach, delicious food spots, an amusement park, arcades, ice-cream parlours and friendly locals. And, when the sun is shining down, it makes the place look even more beautiful.”

David Dooley, Co Offaly

“I love the way the light works off the scenery in the west. I love the fact that so many areas are unchanged, as beautiful as they’ve ever been. I always approach a visit with anticipation. I love the wildness, the colour, the sense of peace – and at the same time the sense of adventure.”

Julie Warner, Co Wicklow “My favourite place in the west of Ireland is Sligo, because I think it’s very underrated.

The town is small and compact, easy to get around, and has lovely quaint bars. There are loads of nice beaches in Sligo and Benbulben Mountain is worth a visit, where you’ll find fantastic walking trails.”

Grace O’Sullivan, Co Cork

Location images on this page courtesy of Fáilte Ireland. Editor’s photo by Paul Gallagher. David and Grace by Clodagh Dooley

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The Great Western Adventure 3

Sheep’s Head Peninsula, Co Cork

Ten top touring routes along the Wild Atlantic Way Ireland boasts some of the finest scenic drives on earth – the Ring of Kerry and the Connemara Loop, to name just two.

The Wild Atlantic Way along the west coast is the longest defined coastal touring route in the world, stretching 2,500km from Inishowen in Donegal to Kinsale in West Cork, covering nine counties and three provinces There was considerable excitement last year when ‘Top Gear’ visited Ireland. We know just how phenomenal the Ring of Kerry can be to drive, and it was thrilling to see how resplendent this part of the country looked through a ‘Top Gear’ lens.

Whatever you’re driving – you can enjoy the thrill of the open road on the Wild Atlantic Way, of which Kerry forms part.

Experiencing the whole 2,500km in one trip might be a bit ambitious for most of us. So, here are 10 great shorter touring routes along the main route.

There’s a scenic tour to enjoy wherever you are along the west coast, with plenty of highlights for taking pictures with the family amidst glorious nature.

‘Some time make the time to drive out west’, Seamus Heaney urged in his wonderful poem, ‘Postscript’.

Well, the time is now.

4 The Great Western Adventure

Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula, Co Kerry

View from Moll’s Gap, Co Kerry

1. Sheep’s Head Peninsula, Co Cork Set off from Bantry and loop around this evocatively named peninsula before finishing up in Durrus, just up the road from where you started. It takes in the entire peninsula and, due to the thinness of the land here, you get fantastic views of the Atlantic on both sides. At 40km long, the journey can be done quickly, but you will want to stop again and again, not least to take a walk down to the Sheep’s Head Lighthouse, sited in a special area of conservation.

3. Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula, Co Kerry This touring route is ecstatically reviewed on TripAdvisor – and with good reason.

It covers an area of astonishing natural beauty and part of its coastal route offers unrivalled views of the Blasket Islands.

The most westerly part of the mainland, it boasts several beaches – and what better way to reward yourself after a drive than with a barefoot walk on Coumeenoole Strand, with the Atlantic waves lapping at your feet?

2. Kinsale to Clonakilty, West Cork

4. Burren Beauty Drive, Co Clare

West Cork offers some of the finest food in the country and there is no shortage of places to stop to eat, especially in Kinsale, with the Bulmen in the adjoining village of Summercove celebrated for its dishes.

The Old Head of Kinsale is renowned for its sensational sea views and stories of shipwrecks and it is a headland that is especially popular with golf aficionados.

The 96km route between Kinsale and Clonakilty is full of twists and turns, with the Michael Collins Museum at your destination an intriguing place to brush up on history.

This 68km drive is the perfect way to take in the singularly stony landscape of the Burren. Starting in Kilfenora, a place famed for its venerable céilí band, it winds its way through Lisdoonvarna and up the coast to Black Head. Both Fanore beach and the stunning Flaggy shore should be investigated on foot, and if you’re hungry, Linnane’s at New Quay offers some of the finest seafood you’ll eat on the Wild Atlantic Way.

5. Ennis to Doonbeg, Co Clare Heading west along the line of the

Benbulben, Co Sligo Achill Island, Co Mayo

Shannon Estuary, this drive takes you around the magnificently windswept southern tip of the Banner County and onwards to Doonbeg on the Atlantic coast.

The sweeping beach here is stunning and, not surprisingly, a popular spot among surfers, who are drawn to the perfect Atlantic waves that roll in.

6. Galway to Westport, Co Galway Cutting through the rugged Connemara region, this route takes you high up into the mountains – giving you a panoramic view of the Atlantic on your way to Clifden.

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Ladies’ View, Killarney, Co Kerry

the west coast of Mayo are among the most remote parts of the country, which makes a drive in the region all the more pleasant – for some stretches, you’re bound to be one of the few people on the road. The views of Clew Bay and the Maumturk Mountains are spectacular and the sight of Croagh Patrick may be enough to make you want to return the next day to walk the famous pilgrim route to the top.

8. Yeats Country

No trip to this evocative part of Galway is complete without driving the aptly named Sky Road. The panoramic views the 15km route offers of the expanse of Clifden Bay and its numerous islands is, quite simply, magical.

7. Achill Island, Co Mayo Achill Island and the Currane Peninsula on

The spectacular sights of Co Sligo inspired WB Yeats’ most elemental poetry, and those natural wonders are just as captivating today. From Innisfree to Lissadell and onto Drumcliff, where the great poet is buried, a drive around the county is bound to elevate the spirits. The coastal road at Mullaghmore is spectacular – you’ll want to stop the car to get photos of the gothic-looking Classiebawn.

the Rosguill Peninsula and offers some of the most scenic views on the Wild Atlantic Way. This route is known as the Atlantic Drive and, while short, it’s quite spectacular. As you travel along the first section you are looking across Sheephaven Bay to Horn Head, then into Tranarosan Bay with its beautiful beach forming a golden link between two headlands.

10. Inishowen 100, Co Donegal Named because of its approximate distance in miles, the Inishowen 100 drive takes you around the coast of Ireland’s most northerly point. The almost exclusively coastal route ensures quite staggering views of the Atlantic. Starting in Muff, you take the road up the coast to Moville and continue north through the Malin Head Loop and back down to finish in the small village of Burnfoot.

9. The Atlantic Drive, Co Donegal

Find out more at www.wildatlanticway.com

The point of land that stretches out into the Atlantic between the bays of Sheephaven and Mulroy is known as

Images and information courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Atlantic Drive, Co Donegal

The Wild Atlantic Way Passport If you’re planning a visit to the Wild Atlantic Way, the Wild Atlantic Way Passport is a fun souvenir to pick up – it serves as a unique record of your and your family’s trip. Every beautifully designed passport has its own number, so it’s special to your visit.

There are 188 ‘Discovery Points’ peppering the route, each with an individual passport stamp. To get your passport stamped, simply call into the local post offices and selected Tourist Information Offices in the adjacent towns and villages.

Think you can collect all 188?

And it gets better! The route is divided up into six zones, and once you’ve completed a zone, you can drop into any of the Tourist Information Offices listed to receive a special Wild Atlantic Way gift.

The passport can be bought at post offices along the route, or at the GPO in Dublin, for €10.

Learn more at www.wildatlanticway.com

Unleash your adventurous side in the west of Ireland!

TOP OF THE LOT

Bundoran Beach, Co Donegal

If you’re visiting areas in or near the northwest of Ireland this summer, make sure you don’t leave without trying some of these fun, unique – and even once-ina-lifetime – family activities The northwest of Ireland is a region of infinite variety – a paradise for outdoor explorers, hillwalkers, sporting enthusiasts and those with an appreciation for the true beauty of nature. However, not only is the region aesthetically pleasing, there’s also an exciting new experience to be discovered around every corner.

So, whether you’re staying in Co Donegal, Leitrim, Sligo, Roscommon, Mayo or Galway, you’re bound to find

6 The Great Western Adventure

an activity which will help make lasting memories for the entire family over the sunnier season.

CO DONEGAL Surf’s up

If there’s one water sport you try in your lifetime, make that surfing. It’s difficult to get the hang of at first (or, in some cases, always difficult), but you’ll still have plenty of fun trying to see who can stand on the surfboard the longest or, indeed, who can stand up on the board first! Along the length of the Wild Atlantic Way (www. wildatlanticway.com), you’ll find many surf schools which cater for kids as well as adults, such as Finn McCool Surf School in Rossnowlagh.

Or, learn with TurfnSurf on Bundoran beach, Rossnowlagh or Strandhill. You don’t need to be an expert in the water, but you do need to have a sense of adventure, basic level of fitness and a swimming ability. Park for free at the TurfnSurf lodge, from which you’ll be transported to the beach. Visit www.turfnsurf.ie for more details.

Adrenaline rush For a fun-filled day out for all the family, Letterkenny Activity Centre is a good call. Three miles outside Letterkenny, the centre has a choice of exciting and

challenging activities including karting, archery, airsoft, high ropes and zip lining.

The centre’s footy golf will induce buckets of laughter among players. Played on the pitch and putt course, footy golf is like golf but played with a football. A game costs €7 per person. For more information on all activities and prices, visit www.lkaactivitycentre.com.

canvas bag design, while you can also create personalised gifts or keepsakes for special occasions such as weddings and communions. Or, for something more thrilling, visit Sligo’s only paintball complex – Sligo Extreme Paintballing. Situated in Hazelwood, approximately a 10-minute drive from Sligo Town, the centre caters for a minimum of two people and upwards.

CO SLIGO

CO LEITRIM

If you’re travelling along the Wild Atlantic Way, golf lovers are well catered for, as some of the world’s very best links courses are found there. But if you want to enjoy golf with young children, you’ll need to think of something different – and the Crazy Golf Centre at Enniscrone, Co Sligo, is just the ticket for budding Rory McIlroys. There’s a much-loved playground there too, located in a natural hollow close to sand dunes.

If your child has always dreamed of owning their very own pony (or if you have!), then a visit to Moorlands Equestrian Centre in Co Leitrim is as good as. Set between Sliabh an Iarainn and the Arigna mountains, the centre provides horse riding lessons with qualified instructors, pony camps for children, treks with scenic views, and exhilarating rides and outdoor jumping for the more experienced of riders. The centre also caters for riders with various disabilities.

Visit www.moorlands.ie for more details.

Special link

Get crafty Ready to get immersed in paint, both figuratively and literally? Hullabaloo (www.hullabaloo.ie) in Sligo Town is an exciting and fun place to get creative with family and friends and paint your very own pottery. Other activities include jewellery making, t-shirt design and

Horsing around

Bowled over It comes as no surprise that the weather in Ireland isn’t always dry, so on rainy summer days, it’s good to have a back-up activity. Kidz Kingdom and Bowling (www.kidzkingdomandbowling.com) at

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Get creative this summer

the Mulvey Centre in Carrick-on-Shannon is a fantastic adventure centre for all ages.

Who will be the bowling champion?

CO ROSCOMMON What’s mine

Go back in time and discover what coal mining life was like at the Arigna Mining Experience, Co Roscommon, since its beginning in the 1700s until the mine’s closure in 1990. An educational experience for both children and adults, visitors will see what it was like to work in some of the narrowest coal seams in the western world during an underground tour. Old methods used to extract the coal are demonstrated, while lighting and sound effects add authenticity.

Woodland adventure Approximately a 20-minute drive away from the Arigna Mining Experience is the Lough Key Forest Park in Boyle, where families enter a world of adventure with electric bike trails, woodland segways, boat tours of Lough Key, orienteering, an adventure play kingdom, and more.

CO MAYO

Shiver me timbers With the new ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’

31 May 2017 I Irish Independent

in cinemas now, why not go on your own pirate adventure? A treasure trove of family fun, the Pirate Adventure Park in Westport provides the full pirate experience, without the need to travel the seas to some secluded island. Activities include rides such as the Cannonball Run Slide and the Pirate’s Plunge (Ireland’s only log flume ride), go-karting, real-life dungeons in Westport House, a pirate’s playground, and much more. To avoid queues, book your ticket online at shop.westporthouse.ie/shop/, where you can get 5pc off.

Sail away One of the fastest-growing water activities right now is stand-up paddling – or SUPping, to those in the know. An off-shoot of surfing, it was developed in Hawaii and has really taken off on more sheltered parts of the Wild Atlantic Way coastline. Harbour Sup & Sailing Club will help you get the hang of it and they operate at two bases – at the Quay, Ballina, Co Mayo and Enniscrone Pier, Co Sligo. For more information, visit www.harboursupsail.com.

CO GALWAY Secret garden

Winner of the Georgina Campbell Family Friendly Destination of the Year Award

Salthill, Co Galway

2017, Brigit’s Garden will take you on a in Salt Hill, but not just through a visit magical journey into the heart of Celtic to its popular beach – visit Galway heritage and mythology, and will appeal Atlantaquaria (www.nationalaquarium.ie) to gardening aficionados of all hues. At too. See and learn about the variety of the garden – which is located close to species of fish and their Oughterard and is approximately habitats; plus, if you a 25-minute drive from Galway plan your visit during City – there are also all feeding time, you ies manner of activities tailored may even get an y activit ds n a m e r e to children. A discovery opportunity There a interests, ne west rth r all trail, playground, and an to hold a to cate vels in the no elling y le trav it e il ancient ring fort (fairy starfish! Adult b ’r a u o d y an if ind you’ll f nd, and fort) will not only keep admission is of Irela Atlantic Way, ine both b d the kids happy, but will €12, while m il o W c l e e th cap t wil ing tha help them feel at one a child d lands someth ul scenery an For more if with nature. For costs €7.50. ! t t u n a e e the joym the b more details, visit A family of ns of en tivities along o t h it c w a www.brigitsgarden.ie. four (two friendly , visit family- astline route y.com adults and two o a c w ic t n ildatla Sea life children) is €33. www.w Experience the world of Parking is available water along the Promenade on location.

The Great Western Adventure 7

Waterville, Co Kerry

The Burren, Co Clare.

Image courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Blarney Castle, Co Cork Chocolate-making

Swing on down Like the northwest, the mid- and southwest have an abundance of highlights for families – here are just some

The southwest counties of Cork and Kerry are without a doubt among the most popular destinations in Ireland for tourists. Rugged, rustic and wild, it’s easy to see why this postcard-perfect region may best match what first-time visitors expect Ireland to look like.

Meanwhile, in the mid-west, Lahinch in Co Clare is an ideal setting for a seaside holiday, while Limerick is the sporting capital, having been awarded the title of ‘European City of Sport’ and being home to one of the most famous rugby clubs and stadiums in the world – Munster and their home ground, Thomond Park.

However, there is more to each of these counties than meets the eye, and on a visit to any of them, you’ll find new experiences that the whole family will cherish.

CO KERRY Chocoholic

Rugged, rustic and wild, it’s easy to see why this postcard-perfect region may best match what first-time visitors expect Ireland to look like 10 The Great Western Adventure

Ever dreamed of one day visiting Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory? Co Kerry has the next best thing. Lorge Chocolatiers, near Kenmare, is run by French chocolatemaker Benoit Lorge, and he loves to help children learn how to make their own delicacies. But it’s not just for children, the grown-ups can get to sample their tasty creations too. For more information, visit www.lorge.ie.

Shore thing The Wild Atlantic Way (www. wildatlanticway.com) is a gloriously

evocative stretch of coastline and features a fantastic selection of plant and animal life along its length. The Sea Synergy and Activity Centre at Waterville, Co Kerry, brings the shoreline to life for kids, both young and older. There are shore rambles with expert guides, snorkelling courses and even a guided beach walk at night, the appropriately named Sea Stars.

relax in and dungeons to explore. Travel approximately 40-minutes from Blarney Castle to board the ‘Spirit of Kinsale’ for a spectacular tour of Kinsale harbour – take in the views and see if you can spot some seals and otters!

CO CLARE Dolphin watching

CO CORK Unlock the past

Cork City Gaol (www.corkcitygaol.com), which once housed 19th-century prisoners, is one of the most memorable Cork tourist attractions. Get a fascinating insight into day-to-day prison life at a time when the high walls ensured absolutely no escape – luckily for the locals! Did you know that famous inmates included Countess Markievicz in the 1900s and outstanding Cork writer Frank O’Connor during the Irish Civil War in the 1920s? There’s much to see and discover during a visit.

Admission rates are €8 for an adult and €5 for a child.

Kiss of life Approximately a 15-minute drive from Cork City, you’ll find the 600-year-old Blarney Castle. Home to the Blarney Stone – where you can climb the steps to kiss the world-famous stone and gain the gift of eloquence. There are also plenty of mystical and serene gardens to wander through, gift shops to browse, a café to

When travelling the Wild Atlantic Way, visit the small fishing village of Carrigaholt in Co Clare, and experience sea life at the mouth of the River Shannon. Ireland’s greatest river opens out to the Atlantic Ocean at Carrigaholt on the Loop Head Peninsula, home to Europe’s largest group of bottlenose dolphins. Children and adults will be equally as excited to see if they can spot the friendly species in their natural habitat. For more details, visit www.dolphinwatch.ie.

Caving in For a fun day out, why not take the family to the Aillwee Cave and its Birds of Prey Centre at the heart of the Burren? Take a guided walk through beautiful caverns, over bridged chasms, under unique formations and alongside the thunderous waterfall, which sometimes gently sprays the unsuspecting visitor! The Birds of Prey Centre is home to one of the largest and most varied collections of birds of prey in Ireland, from eagles to hawks. A flying display runs daily at 12 noon, 2pm and 4pm (until 31st August). There are also

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Dolphin watching

Star of the west

Clodagh Dooley asks some wellknown Irish faces about some of their favourite places in the west of Ireland Cork City Gaol

Lahinch, Co Clare.

Image credit: Clodagh Dooley

Curraghchase Forest Park and six

y miles from Adare, Stonehall Pet re man There a ater for all Farm and Wildlife Park is ideal c o t y s it activitie eeds and abil est for families with younger thw ts, n children. Along with the interes mid- and sou elling the trav in e many animals, including ’r ls u e o v y le if ind you’ll f nd, and birds of prey and ponies, of Irela Atlantic Way, ine both b d the park boasts purposem il o c W l e e il th cap tw ing tha d lands built indoor play areas, someth ul scenery an or familyif go-karting, tractors and F t ! u t a n e e the b joym e bouncy castles, while ns of en ities along th o t h it w activ it adults can sit back and friendly line route, vis m t s relax in the picnic area .c a y o a o c w ic t n ildatla or traditional-style tea www.w

plenty of activities nearby, including watching wood carving, bow making and fire lighting techniques at the Woodland Craft Village, plus no experience is needed to take part in the Aillwee 3D Archery.

Aillwee Cave is located on the edge of the Burren National Park, about 3km south of the village of Ballyvaughan on the R480 – approximately 60km from the cities of Galway and Limerick.

CO LIMERICK Pet day

Located in a tranquil rural setting in Co Limerick, running parallel to

rooms. For opening hours and prices, see www.stonehallvisitorfarm.ie.

Jump around Not only is jumping up and down on a trampoline good fun, it’s also good exercise! Children aged five and older can bounce around with freedom and safety at Jump Lanes Trampoline Park in Limerick.

To add a competitive edge to the fun, play a game of dodgeball as you jump. There’s a viewing area for parents alongside the trampolines, where they can sit and watch their children play, as well as an on-site café and beanbags scattered around the trampoline centre.

Daniel O’Donnell, singer and TV presenter “Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity – and especially during our ‘B&B Road Trip’ on RTÉ One – to cover quite a bit of the Wild Atlantic Way. Although every place has its own beauty, for me Sliabh Liag is the most spectacular. After walking the few kilometres from the car park, when you eventually reach the top of Sliabh Liag, you’ll be blown away by the incredible view of the Atlantic and Donegal Bay! The whole coastline from Bundoran to Inishowen is spectacular. And I, of course, being from The Rosses, would encourage people to visit our part of the world too.”

Sinéad Moriarty, novelist “I spent two recent summers in Castlegregory in Co Kerry, and the beaches are incredible and great for kids. Even on cloudy days, you can go for great walks along almost deserted beaches. You feel as if you are at the end of the world, where nature is king. It’s truly stunning and good for the soul. I haven’t been to the islands in the west and I really want to go, particularly to Valentia Island in Co Kerry and Achill Island in Co Mayo. I love the idea of being cut off from the world for a while. There’s something kind of romantic about it.”

Celia Holman-Lee, fashion stylist and TV presenter “We’ve spent our lives going right up around the Burren, over to Co Galway, to West Clare, out to the Aran Islands and more. The coastal area is amazing – Cliffs of Moher, Lahinch, Kilkee, Loop Head, and Doolin. I love them all for different reasons, but I would say Lahinch is very close to my heart. The beach there is phenomenal; you’re nearby Doolin, which I love as well, and you’re a short drive from Fanure – when you drive along the coast to Fanure, the Aran Islands jump out at you.

“Limerick [Celia’s homeplace] is only an hour away from Lahinch and there’s so much to do there too – you have the Hunt museum, St Mary’s Cathedral, art galleries, amazing bars and restaurants, and water sports along the River Shannon. On Image credit: the outskirts, you Oxendales have Bunratty Castle, where I often bring my grandchildren.”

Aoibhín Garrihy, actress “I live in Co Clare with my husband John and we try to get out to the coast for downtime as much as possible, particularly West and North Clare – the Spanish Point, Liscannor, Lahinch and Doolin. However, whenever we get a chance we love to explore the Wild Atlantic Way, and each year we look forward to a trip to the Dingle Peninsula. This year, we will spend a few nights in Brandon and I’m so looking forward to it. The west is definitely best!”

From fun festivals to ancient monastic sites, the spectacular views and brisk sea air of the islands around the country’s west coast have made them some of the most popular tourist destinations.

Here are the 10 greatest things to see and do

Aran Islands, Co Galway

Achill Island, Co Mayo

Little Skellig seen from Skellig Michael

Use the force at Skellig Michael Take a tour around the wild Skellig Islands in Kerry, made world-famous for featuring in ‘Star Wars: The Force Awakens’ and the upcoming ‘Star Wars: The Last Jedi’. Walk the same steps as Rey and Luke Skywalker, while carrying that lightsaber you keep for special occasions! Or, drive the Skellig Ring Scenic Drive on the Ring of Kerry along the Wild Atlantic Way, taking in awe-inspiring views of the Skellig Islands at every turn.

Up in the air in Dursey Island Take Ireland’s only cable car to Dursey Island in the west of Cork. The cable car runs about 250m above the sea and can take six people on the journey across the infamous Dursey Sound. Kids will love the dolphins and whales who are regular visitors to the rich waters that surround the island.

Row your boat to Inis Mór The Aran Islands in Galway Bay are one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland. Inis Mór hosts many festivals including the annual ‘Tedfest’ and the Inis Mór Pátrún Festival in June which celebrates the Patron Saint of the island, St Enda. This event has lots of fun for all the family including sandcastle building, tug of war, road races, inter-island currach races and the Galway Hooker Regatta, displaying unique Irish boats. With bike hires and pony and trap tours on the island, the whole family will love it and don’t forget to pick up an Aran sweater while there!

Cúpla Focail in the Aran Islands If you’re in the mood for learning Irish, the Gaeltacht of the Aran Islands provides many opportunities, with summer courses for students and several conversion courses for adults. Visit Coláiste Ó Direáin on the beautiful island of Inis Mór or Coláiste Laichtín situated on Inis Oírr and stay in the homes of Irish-speaking families. You’ll be reciting your focail in no time at all!

A wheelie great time in Achill Island Achill, which is at one end of the Great Western Greenway in Co Mayo – a 42km off-road cycle and walking trail – is a

12 The Great Western Adventure

Take the steps to Skellig Michael Above pictures courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Escape to an island superb place for cycling enthusiasts. Or go on the Atlantic Drive, a 40km drive along the coast with breathtaking views. Along the drive there are many fabulous sights to be seen, including the castle of the woman who gained fame as a pirate along the western coast, Granuaile’s Castle.

On the seashore in Inishbofin or Achill The small island Inishbofin, off the coast of Galway, has numerous beautiful beaches, with crystal clear waters, many having been awarded the Green Coast Award.

Speaking of great beaches – Achill Island, known for tall sea cliffs and mountain views, has five Blue Flag beaches, denoting pure excellence. Try Trawmore Strand, which is popular with bathers and also regularly used for adventure watersports.

How yawl doing in Achill?

The Achill Yawl Festival runs from July to September each year, with races taking place at weekends and in the evenings. An annual series of races involving traditional

Achill yawl sailing boats, the exciting spectator sport is contested by local teams.

The Yawl Festival helps preserve local culture and the use of the Irish language.

Go loopy around Tory Island Take in the incredible attractions on the

Getting to the islands is half the fun!

For some, you drive distances across causeways and bridges, or travel on a swinging cable car, but for most it is the ferries that will bring you to your island escape. The ferry rides are a fun family adventure and many are wheelchair accessible.

The main ferry port for the islands of West Cork is the village of Baltimore; for the Aran Islands it is Rossaveal and Doolin; for Inishturk and Clare Island it is Roonagh Pier; and for the northwest islands of Tory and Inishbofin the port is Magheroarty.

For more information and to see the ferry listings for each of the islands visit www.wildatlanticway.com

Tory Island Loop walk. The walk around the Donegal Island will allow you to explore several historical sites, including the fascinating Tau Cross and the 6thcentury ruins of Colmcille’s monastery.

You can also bow to the locally elected King of the island, who welcomes visitors to see all the wonderful attractions.

Hoof it to Omey Island Omey Island is accessible at low tide every day by crossing acres of sandy beach by driving or walking. You can attend the annual Omey Island Races at Omey Strand in Connemara held every summer.

Known as ‘The Other Galway Races’, the summer races are a fun day of horses, sea, sand and hopefully some sun. It’s a great opportunity for young jockeys to show off their talent, while also a wonderful day out for everyone else.

Have a whale of a time in Sherkin Island Sherkin Island, southwest of Cork, is a great base for whale watching, with good fishing to be had on the rocky headlands.

If you’re lucky, you could spot seals and dolphins swimming offshore. Sherkin’s flora and fauna attract nature lovers and birdwatchers, as many birds breed on the island, and you can even spot rare migrants flying through in spring and autumn.

Irish Independent I 31 May 2017

Food for thought

Dingle, Co Kerry

Four foodie highlights of the Wild Atlantic Way

When travelling west, prepare your tastebuds for a mouthwatering food experience.

From the freshest of fish dishes to fine dairy ice-cream and artisan treats, Clodagh Dooley chooses some of the eating houses you’ll want to savour every moment spent in

There’s something along the Wild Atlantic Way to satisfy every appetite – but don’t just eat the food, discover the stories behind the local produce too. Here are four unique eateries to stop by en route The Little Cheese Shop, Co Kerry Tucked away on Grey’s Lane in the colourful town of Dingle, you’ll find cheesemaker Maja Binder. Originally trained in Switzerland, Maja has been making her award-winning cheeses on the Dingle Peninsula for almost 20 years. Made in spring and autumn from locally-sourced milk, her cheeses are stone-pressed and matured in a 200-year-old storehouse. Each day, the rind is brushed with whey, as flavours develop within a truly individual environment.

THE TRADITIONAL ONE McDonagh’s, Co Galway

For a traditional feed in a cosy maritimethemed dining room, visit McDonagh’s Fish and Chips Bar and Seafood Restaurant. A family-run business, McDonagh’s has been serving the freshest fish and chips to Galway residents for four generations. Choose from a variety of fish dishes including a Shellfish Platter, Roast Scallops with Black Pudding, and Baked Monkfish in the Seafood Restaurant, but whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the traditional cod fillet in a golden batter with chips – you won’t be disappointed.

Clonakilty Chocolate, Co Cork With a small home-based operation, Alison at Clonakilty Chocolate likes to keep things simple. Her small team in West Cork uses Fairtrade Ghanaian cocoa beans with natural sweeteners and dairy alternatives to create artisan truffles and rich slabs of chocolate. Her Wild West chocolate, made with a pinch of Irish salt and Achill seaweed, is truly a taste of the Wild Atlantic Way. Join in a workshop to learn the process from roasting to tempering.

Image courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

THE INTIMATE ONE Chocolat, Co Limerick

You’ll have a lavish experience when you step inside Chocolat, particularly if you are seated downstairs. An intimate setting with a mirrored roof and plush wine sofas and chairs, Chocolat has an extensive menu of global classics including Sizzling Fajitas, Honey Glazed Chicken, and Fish and Chips. The Yan Pang Chicken, a crispy breaded chicken breast smothered in a peanut satay sauce, is a must-try.

THE SWEET ONE Kaff’Eile, Co Leitrim

THE HEALTHY ONE Quay Co-op, Co Cork

For the more health-conscious or those with special dietary requirements, visit the Quay Co-op in Co Cork. The vegetarian restaurant is a staple of Cork’s food scene and has a selection of vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and sugar-free starters, mains and desserts. Also worth checking out on Sullivan’s Quay, is one of the city’s biggest and most-loved health food stores, Sullivan’s Quay Shop. Shop the organic

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when the site was home of the Royal Irish Constabulary – but it will also go down in history for its tasty, locally-sourced cuisine and craft beers! Just a five-minute drive from Donegal Town, the award-winning seafood bar serves everything from Panfried Irish Sirloin Steak to Local Lobster Tail and Langoustine Risotto.

wines, fresh bread, herbs and spices and extensive range of gluten-free products and meat alternatives to bring home.

THE HISTORIC ONE The Village Tavern, Co Donegal

Situated along the Wild Atlantic Way route, The Village Tavern in Mountcharles, Co Donegal, not only has a fascinating history – dating back to the 1798 Rebellion

A combination of café and creperie, Kaff ’Eile in Carrick-on-Shannon does what is says on the tin – and more. It’s the home of the crepe, and those with a sweet tooth will be satisfied by the Choco’berry Delight, which includes Nutella, strawberries and whipped cream, or the amazing Rocky Road – a delicious crepe with Nutella, marshmallow and biscuit. Quench your thirst with an icecold smoothie – the names themselves are tempting enough. Choose from the likes of Tropical Dream, Strawberry Sunrise and Berrylicious. But, it’s not just sweet treats you can look forward to at Kaff’Eile, they also have an extensive menu of paninis, wraps, bagels, salads and more.

Shells Café, Co Sligo Inside its cheery blue facade, you’ll find the owners Jane and Myles Lamberth experimenting with new recipes and serving up their wildly popular breakfast salads. After travelling the world, the couple opened their seaside haven in Strandhill, a beach known for its amazing surf. Here, locals and visitors are happy to queue for dishes like Persian Couscous with Grilled Chicken, Slow-Cooked Beef Briskets and Rainbow Trout with Barley Risotto.

Burren Smokehouse, Clare At Lisdoonvarna, Peter and Birgitta Curtin operate one of the great European smokehouses. Here, you’ll find superb smoked salmon from Clare Island in Co Mayo, alongside locally-caught mackerel and trout. Skill and patience are essential to do justice to this quality ingredient – and this duo aren’t short of either! Fish is smoked on-site using unique marinades and infused woods, resulting in a sublime and unforgettable culinary experience.

For more information, visit www.wildatlanticway.com

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‘Reinforced Boundaries’, copper etching by Bernie Dignam

A land of colour and creation The west of Ireland has a long association with the arts, and continues to be celebrated for its artistic output today.

Ben Murnane spoke to two Connemarabased artists to get their take on what makes this western landscape so inspiring In March 2015, I went to an event in the Inagh Valley in Connemara, at the Inagh Hatchery. ‘Wild-screen’ was a festival of short films organised by Louise Manifold and Úna Quigley. Of course, the films were part of the attraction. But, for many, the biggest attraction of the event was the location: an old salmon hatchery on the edge of the Connemara wilderness.

We drove up a long, winding, mysterious road to get there – and reached this strange, industrial-looking facility parked beside Lough Inagh, the lake magnificent as always, with its bushcovered tiny islands and lapping water. In the spirit of the best ‘site specific’ art, the location was intended to complement or reflect the films that were on show, about themes of wilderness and wildness.

The Inagh Hatchery is now being used by artist Alannah Robins for an artists’ residency programme.

Like so many artists and writers through the centuries, Alannah’s work has been heavily influenced by the landscape in Connemara, where she has lived for two decades, with the exception of five years in Sweden.

What is it about this most westerly part of Ireland that has proved so inspiring to artists of all kinds?

“When I went to Sweden, I was in a suburban scene, and I was inspired by apartment windows and suburbia and very inorganic forms,” says Alannah. “Since coming back, these past two years, there’s been a reconnection with the landscape. A wildness is coming back into my work.”

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‘Weave’ by Bernie Dignam, January 2016

‘Carrying the Songs’, Allanah Robins With the batik, I can get more detail, and with the print-making, I’m working more with lines and patterns.”

Boundaries Alannah Robins ungrazed.

“I think where you live is hugely important. It was a difficult decision to move back from Sweden – there were lots of sensible reasons to stay. But there’s a real power of nature here. Aside from artistically, I think it grounds you as a person, and it gives you a perspective outside yourself.”

The light fantastic

Where you live can’t fail to have an impact on the work you do – and when you are an artist surrounded by the majesty of the Connemara mountains, lakes, hedgerows and bog, these elements are bound to make their mark.

“You can’t not be inspired by the landscape here. You can’t avoid it.”

Alannah’s work has travelled widely; she has painted, carved stone, and worked in a variety of media through the years – but the landscape and human impact on nature is a consistent theme.

“One important body of work I had was called ‘Footprint’, looking at man’s imprint on the landscape. The potato ridges, for example, or one grazed side of the mountain as opposed to the other that’s

Bernie Dignam has also been living in Connemara for 20 years. Originally from Finglas in Dublin, she moved here to take up a job in the furniture college in Letterfrack.

Much of Bernie’s work involves beautiful reproductions of Connemara vistas; she uses techniques including print-making, felt-making and batik (a form of cloth-dyeing).

“The Connemara landscape is absolutely stunning. My house overlooks the Twelve Bens, and the mountains feature a lot in my work. It’s such an inspiring landscape, it’s hard not to respond to it.

“You never get bored with it. There’s an amazing light in Connemara – and the way the landscape picks up light changes so much. Even after living here 20 years, there are times I just go – wow!”

The different techniques Bernie uses offer different ways of expressing the landscape.

“With the felt-making, I can get a lot of very vibrant colours – I use wool and silk, and the silk has a luminescence about it.

Bernie has also found deeper personal and artistic meanings through her work.

“One of the bodies of work I did in print-making was around boundaries.

I thought at times that my personal boundaries were quite loose. I might get into situations where people would depend on me, and I didn’t know how to say no.”

The land boundaries in Connemara provided inspiration.

“The land boundaries here are very, very clear – they have to be, because otherwise you’ve got generations of feuds over a small strip of land.

“I did a body of work around fences and walls, land boundaries – the idea being that if our personal boundaries were clearer, we would have more harmonious relationships.

“So, I can actually work out personal problems through my work.”

Bernie’s home-workshop in Connemara has also been a refuge and source of joy to her family. Bernie is the sister of Aslan singer Christy Dignam.

“When Christy was first diagnosed with his illness, he came down with his family.

It was great for them to be able to come here and relax.

“We did a workshop with the whole family, and we made a little mosaic, which I put up on the wall. My walls are covered with all kinds of funky stuff!

“The sense of space that there is here – particularly for my nephews and nieces growing up – it’s important for them to be able to see that there are other ways of living.

“It’s great that they can come down and have a holiday in Connemara!”

Irish Independent I 31 May 2017

Westport, Co Mayo

Take a detour – see what you will find We may be a small island, but there are many events and activities in the west of Ireland to add fun and excitement to your trip. Whether you’re holidaying with family, friends or your significant other this summer, travel on the weekend of one of these upcoming festivals Food, glorious, food On Friday 23rd until Sunday 25th June, the Westport Food Festival in Co Mayo will celebrate the best in local, artisan food. If you’re a lover of food (who isn’t?) and fun, then this will be right up your street. Events such as Mushroom and Seaweed Foraging, Kids’ Pizza Making, Kayaking Picnic, the Bike Buffet, Foodie Tours, and the Artisan Beer Race are back by popular demand, while new events include the Celebration of Food at Westport House and the Great Irish Food Quiz. For more information, visit www.westportfoodfestival.ie.

Sound of music Every year, the line-up at the Live at the Marquee Festival, Co Cork never fails to deliver – and 2017 is certainly no different.

Taking place on the banks of the River Lee, this summer’s acts include world-class names such as Elton John, Pearl Jam’s Eddie Vedder, Idina Menzel and Emilie Sandé, as well as renowned Irish names including Picture This,

31 May 2017 I Irish Independent

host of inspiring performers, showcase artists native to the area and provide opportunities for cultural exchange in theatres, galleries, beaches and forests. From Ardara to Arranmore, Malin to Magheroarty, wherever you’re staying, you’ll be able to enjoy a feast of entertainment in the heart of one of Ireland’s most outstanding areas of natural beauty. To check what’s on, visit www.eaf.ie.

Artistic tastes Commencing on 12th July, the 13th annual Carrick Water Music Festival in Co Leitrim is just around the corner. With literary events, film, workshops, art exhibitions, a gala opera supper event and free music trail, there are five days of musical and artistic discovery in one of Ireland’s loveliest riverside town for families to look forward to. Look out for a full line-up on www.carrickwatermusicfestival.com.

The Coronas, Gavin James, Walking on Cars and 2FM’s Live with Jenny Greene & The RTE Concert Orchestra. Comedians Al Porter and Tommy Tiernan are also set to appear. Log onto www.aikenpromotions.com to check dates and availability of tickets now – but, be quick!

Much to sea Ahoy matey! From Friday 30th June to Sunday 2nd July, Galway Harbour will be transformed into an ‘open air sea world’, with a host of events and activities for SeaFest 2017. The free familyfriendly summer festival will include a seafood fair, seafood cooking demonstrations with celebrity chefs, tours of ocean-going vessels, exhibits on marine life and much more. To find out more, visit www.seafest.ie.

Lend an ear A two-week celebration as Gaeilge agus Bearla, the Earagail Arts Festival (4th-23rd July) – which stretches along the Wild Atlantic Way (www.wildatlanticway.com) – will bring a

Playing matchmaker If you’re planning your trip to the west of Ireland outside of the summer months, then there’s no better time to plan it than around the Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival (www.matchmakerireland.com), which starts in September in Co Clare. Round up your friends for great craic and maybe some romance! The streets will ring out with music and song, while bars and pubs will headline some big names in country music. So, lace up those dancing shoes and get practising those chat-up lines!

Fest for the senses Experience culture in all its forms at K-Fest in Killorglin, Co Kerry this bank holiday weekend (June 2nd-5th). K-Fest aims to nurture the growth of music and the arts, and foster participation in the arts and artistic thought, through galleries, live music, film and more.

Children can look forward to bubble fun workshops, a fairy trail, handprinting and Irish dancing, while everyone will appreciate the local singers and buskers, pipe bands and dance troupes, and art exhibitions. For more information, visit www.kfest.ie.

Music revival It’s been 30 years since the last Mungret Music Festival in Co Limerick, but now it’s back with

Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare a bang. During the weekend of 26th-28th August, Mungret will welcome big names in the Irish music industry, such as Nathan Carter and The Stunning. If you’re staying in Limerick this summer, why not check the gigs out? Both gigs are strictly over 18s and there will be bar facilities and food stalls during the show in case you get peckish! Book tickets online at www.mungretmusicfestival.com.

Midsummer dream On Wednesday 28th June, Chapterhouse Theatre Company presents Shakespeare’s best-loved romantic comedy, ‘A Midsummer Night’s Dream’ at Lissadell House, Co Sligo – and it’s set to be magical! The production will take place in the summer garden theatre, where you’ll be whisked on a thrilling journey to enchanting forests and meet starcrossed lovers, playful fairies and hilarious travelling players. Top the evening off by bringing your own picnics and low-back seating or rugs.

Tickets are available at lissadellhouse.clearbookings.com.

Giddy up Make memories, and a fashion statement, at the Galway Races this summer. On Saturday 5th August, enjoy a day out with the entire family at the ‘Family Race Day’. The younger racegoers are free of charge (adult admission is €20) and will be kept entertained by bouncy castles, slides, face painting and more. Or, dress to impress at ‘Ladies Day’ on Thursday 3rd August. The popular day combines the very best in racing and fashion for the pinnacle of the summer racing calendar – will you take away the €10,000 prize for The g Hotel & Spa Best Dressed Lady competition?

More details of events are available on www.galwayraces.com.

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