contents
June 2010
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08 04 Travel News From volunteer travel to pampering preparation, we recommend our favourite last minute offers and summer specials.
Editor’s Note
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The question I often like to ask people is ironically one I hate being quizzed about. “What’s your favourite holiday destination?” is never an easy one to answer. The truth is I genuinely don’t have a firm favourite. I am in awe of holidaymakers who are loyal fans of one particular destination and confident they will never be led astray from thinking there could be a better beach, town or resort on another continent. While I am lost for just one number one, I do remember the first place I fell head over heels with, planning my return before I had even unpacked my bags. It was an intriguing beach resort set amid the virgin jungle of Terengganu in Malaysia. One picture of the beach that flanked its shore and friends could see why I was so entranced by it. However it’s been three years since that enchanting Tanjong Jara experience and I am slowly getting over my obsession with it. In fact recently I notice a stronger attachment to places closer to home, in some cases they almost surpass my passion for far-flung destinations. I am not sure whether it is an appreciation for the smaller things in life or realising that the grass may not always be greener. Whatever it is, when I was sitting on the beach in Roundstone on a cloud free day recently, I realised just how good an Irish holiday can be. That said if the rain hampers my staycation, Malaysia will be back in the top spot. Karen Creed
Life’s a beach in Turkey If you fancy an affordable sun holiday without compromising on luxury then east meets west could be your best bet writes Jenna Sweeney.
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Canada calling The winter Olympics may be over but Vancouver and its environs is still a playground for holidaymakers in summer writes Karen Creed.
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My Holiday Itinerary For some holidaymakers balming out on a beach is a dream escape. Others rather a more active break writes Corinna Ray as she talks to four jet-setters about their travel plans this summer.
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The malteaser of the Med Kevin Flanagan explains why an island whose name sounds like that of a character from Sesame Street gets his number one vote.
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Boats, trains and automobiles The threat of ash has made many of us question how we travel, with many looking at alternative ways to holiday this summer writes Patrick Ryan.
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When dreams come true After missing out on the childhood Disneyland experience, Karen Creed eventually made it there with her niece, only to realise it is just as impressive for grown ups.
Be Creative Media Production info@becreative.ie Editor Karen Creed :: karcreed@gmail.com Design INM Design Studio Images Deborah Flood and iStockphoto Advertising Terri Byrne :: tbyrne@independent.ie :: T: 01 7055420 Repro Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited Published by Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited :: 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1
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Travel news
WHAT’S HOT IN THE WORLD OF TRAVEL AND WHERE TO LOOK FOR LAST MINUTE HOLIDAYS?
A helping hand from the Ritz Guests of the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt have a chance to add a feel good favour into their holiday, thanks to the hotel’s innovative volunteer service, Give Back Getaway. The five star hotel has recently teamed up with the Children’s Sunshine Home in Leopardstown, inviting guests to take a few hours out of their stay to help improve the lives of the children who depend on the care at this home. From garden duty to painting furniture and household chores, anyone interested in taking part in a Give Back Getaway will be offered a Powerscourt rate of €165 B&B per room per night mid week and €195 B&B per room per night at the weekend. • For more information on the hotel’s Give Back Getaway visit www.ritzcarlton.com/powerscourt or call 01 274 8888
The Twilight zone Twilight mania is crazy on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington and twi-hards, as they've now been tagged, have been swarming to the area. Bella and Edward's home town of Forks has now seen a dramatic transformation and draws thousands of fans to the temperate rainforest. Fans can visit Bella’s school and even see Bella’s old red pick up truck. Some may be keen to visit the pretty costal town of Port Angeles where Bella and Edward enjoyed their first date at Bella Italia. Enjoy the mushroom ravioli as Bella did and those over the legal age can wash it down with a glass of blood red Twilight wine, produced at a local winery. The Olympic Peninsula features the Hoh Rainforest, a world UNESCO heritage site, where visitors can enjoy a raft or kayak trip on the glacier-fed River Hoh. It is blessed with miles of stunning coastline including Ruby Beach, one of the most photographed beaches. There are also numerous waterfalls and picturesque trails, not forgetting numerous Twilight tours. Before you head for Forks you can capture the latest Twilight movie on the big screen. The Twilight Saga:Eclipse opens nationwide on July 9th with previews on 3rd and 4th of July.
Groomed for St Tropez With every sun holiday comes the checklist and we’re not just talking about the packing. Getting your body prepared for beach life is a priority, and usually this can add up to a costly sum. However bargains are in abundance and Carter Beauty in Blackrock is running a €99 deal all summer long for a head to toe summer pamper package. Feet and hands are brought back to their former glory with a manicure and pedicure, a diamond microdermabrasion facial takes off a dead layer of skin, while a strawberry back scrub will leave you smelling and feeling great. An eyebrow wax is also included in the €99 package. Also for those who rather fake it than bake it on holiday a spray tan costs just €15. • Visit www.carterbeauty.ie or call 01 2103624
Beauty and the Brooklodge Wicklow is dubbed the garden of Ireland for good reason and hotels like Brooklodge are integral to the county’s profile as the perfect place to escape. The hotel and its surroundings are raved about, especially for its Spa and organic restaurant. Brooklodge is also encouraging guests to make the most of the great outdoors with itineraries for hiking, biking, extreme adventures, family day trips, golf, horse riding, orienteering and much more. • For the hotel’s summer specials call 0402 36444 or visit www.brooklodge.com
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Travel news
editor’s pick
EUROPEAN ESCAPES This summer consider heading to the turquoise coast in Turkey for seven nights from just €459 per person sharing. Lanzarote for a family (two adults and two children) in a three star for one week is €1,526 while Majorca is €1,467 leaving Dublin on July 10th. • Visit www.falconholidays.ie or call Falcon Direct on 1850 45 35 45
Last M i ute Dealn s
TIME OUT THAILAND
London theatre WE’RE GOING TO IBIZA
Fans of the West End can try tick off the top ten rated musicals in London’s theatre district. We Will Rock is at the top spot while Chicago and The Lion King are close behind. Getting to London is cheaper than ever with flights with BMI from €37 including taxes and charges. • Visit www.flybmi.com and www.visitlondon.com
Santa Eulalia, one of Ibiza’s finest resorts is a fantastic destination for families with a palm-lined promenade, a sandy beach and some excellent tourist facilities. The Casa Luis Apartments have been welcoming Irish guests for over 30 years and if lying by the pool under the banana trees is your idea of heaven then visit www.casaluisibiza.com
FERRY AT THE FORE
FEEL THE PASSION IN OBERAMMERGAU
Stena Line has experienced a 10% increase in its Landbridge bookings to Europe this summer, claiming people travelling this way can save over €1,500 compared to those who fly. A family of four heading for Bordeaux can travel from Dublin Port to Holyhead, onward from Dover to Calais from only €552 with no baggage restrictions or excess charges. Visit www.stenaline.ie
It is impossible to talk about the German town of Oberammergau without talking about the Passion Play. Occurring just once a decade it is the main tourist attraction of the town. Topflight specialises in holidays to Oberammergau. Or you could visit Verona for the opera. Prices are from €659pp plus taxes for three nights including flights. Visit www.topflight.ie
Let the experts do the hard work There’s no need to take a day off work to queue at embassies for holiday visas – instead you can let Trailfinders do the hard work. Visas are their speciality and they can arrange up to twenty different types of visa including Australia, China, India, Russia and Vietnam. • Call 01 881 49 49, visit 4 / 5 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 or see http://visas.trailfinders.ie for more details.
Travel Mood is offering excellent holiday packages to Thailand to tempt Irish holidaymakers back to the Far East paradise. Enjoy 10 nights in the beach resort of Pattaya in a four star from €668. Or experience a twin break in Chiang Mai and Koh Samui from €1,396. Visit www.travelmood.ie or call 01 4331041.
Mobile travel In the first five months of 2010 more than 800,000 people used their mobile phone to access the web. Now Tour America is catering to this demand by getting its mobile website live and available to all customers. It gives the browser the latest flight, hotel and package specials in the USA and is updated and re-priced every 20 minutes. • Visit www.touramerica.ie or call 01 8173500 or 021 4580999
Moving onwards and upwards In February 2010 Clem Walshe, Budget Travel’s former head of marketing, set up LocalMarketing.ie specialising in a mix of consultancy services and marketing strategies for small to medium sized businesses that can’t afford either the time or money to effectively market their business. • For further information log on to www.localmarketing.ie
Gold star for Turkish Airlines Turkish Airlines has been named the best airline in Southern Europe and the best quality in economy class according to Skytrak (the Oscars of the Aviation industry). The airline also marked its name on the 3rd place in the best airline companies in all European countries. • For flight schedules and prices www.thy.com
Focus on Brazil MSC Cruises isn’t just making waves with its legendary cruises. Its involvement with the “Get on board for Children” is making huge progress. The UNICEF project is a result of a three-year partnership agreement helping disadvantaged children in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. • For further information or to book an MSC cruise visit www.msccruises.co.uk
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Sun Escape
Life’s a
beach in
Turkey If you fancy an affordable sun holiday without compromising on luxury then east meets west could be your best bet writes JENNA SWEENEY
ome countries boast about having a beach for every day of the year. In Turkey this claim could easily be proven given the sheer size of the coastline that is flanked by sandy shores, cosy inlets and secluded bays. Most of these have been sought out by intrepid tourists and glittering resorts now flank much of the coastline with luxury villas, boutique hotels and all inclusive resorts offering enticing deals to those interested in holidaying in a sunshine paradise. What’s more, a competitive exchange rate has further boosted the appeal for holidaymakers who choose Turkey over other summer hotspots. Given the popularity and affordability of allinclusive hotels it is a popular way for many holidaymakers to experience the resorts that have become an integral part of Turkey’s holiday map. Antalya is a well known thriving coastal city where crowds swarm to soak up the sun and Turkish culture. It is a modern city that has plenty of beaches and a picturesque old quarter. Marmaris is another popular resort in a stunning setting, with pine-clad hills dropping steeply to the sea, interspersed with jagged inlets and tiny rocky islets off the coast. Içmeler boasts the best beach in the area – a sweeping bay of golden sand, with an array of water sports. The beautiful beaches
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don’t stop there. Bodrum may be a well established resort with an eclectic dining scene and nightlife but some of its main attractions are the alluring bays and coves around the peninsula on the west coast. Just a short drive from the buzz of Bodrum, you can still encounter quaint fishing villages like Gumusluk. Here you can bathe in crystal clear water and enjoy platters of seafood in seaside restaurants that have no menus but simply expert chefs who will serve up whatever your palate craves. While the Blue Lagoon of Oludeniz on the Aegean coast is the most photographed beach in Turkey, there are many others that compete for the title of most picturesque including Patara near Kalkan. Kusadasi is another of Turkey’s jewels with kilometres of fine sand, a beautiful harbour and an important centre for scuba diving and boat
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WHAT MAKES TURKEY A PARTICULARLY APPEALING HOLIDAY DESTINATION IS THAT IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT BEACH CULTURE. THERE IS ALSO PLENTY TO DISCOVER WHETHER YOUR INTEREST LIES IN FOOD, CITIES, HISTORIC SITES OR ACTIVITIES.”
tours around the stunning coastline. What makes Turkey a particularly appealing holiday destination is that it’s not just about beach culture. There is also plenty to discover whether your interest lies in food, cities, historic sites or activities. Istanbul is highly recommended for a day or overnight excursion; although in reality it takes several visits to discover the city’s beauty in its entirety. It is like an open air museum, with one of the most famous and striking skylines in the world. Straddling two continents, highlights include Hagia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Blue Mosque and a scenic Bosphorus cruise. The Istanbul Modern Museum is rapidly carving out a name for itself as a leading outlet for European modern art while the historic sites of this vibrant and unique city have been awarded coveted UNESCO world heritage status. When one needs time out from the beach, shopping is one of the most lucrative holiday activities. If you like haggling for bargains then you will revel in Turkey’s shopping culture. It is an experience in itself what with any selfrespecting village, resort or town hosting its very own colourful bazaar. Goods are already excellent value for money and they often include textiles and leather goods, designer fakes, jewellery, handicrafts and spices. For those who rather stick to coastal activities, sailing is a popular pastime. Given its calm
turquoise waters, it’s no surprise that sailing has become an integral part of holidays in Turkey. Gulet cruising is another sea based activity which involves traditional Turkish wooden vessels that cruise along the country’s most spectacular stretch of coastline. It is a chance to explore deserted bays, hidden inlets, pristine waters and gloriously unspoilt, tranquil beaches along the turquoise coast. Golf has also taken off in a big way in Turkey. The resort of Belek on the Mediterranean coast currently boasts seven world class golf courses, including the Cornelia Faldo, an 18 hole championship course designed by Nick Faldo. Of course a holiday is never complete without some mention of food. There is much more to Turkish cuisine than kebabs, although admittedly, these are also excellent. Eating out in Turkey represents fantastic value for money and although international cuisine is widely available in tourist resorts and cities, you simply cannot beat the local food. Favourites include meze (a selection of hot and cold starters including yoghurt-based dips), hummus, and cheese filled borek (pastries). There are also Turkish variations on pizza, commonly topped with minced, spiced meat; delicious and fresh sea food. Mouth watering desserts include sweet and sticky baklava. ■ • For more information on holidays in Turkey visit www.gototurkey.co.uk
Farflung Holidays
Canada calling It may be attracting an influx of ambitious Irish workers, but Western Canada is also a desirable destination for adventurous holidaymakers writes KAREN CREED he Irish and the Vancouverites have a lot more in common than I ever imagined. Interestingly both are exposed to a high cost of living and a significant amount of rain. Why then you might ask would an Irish person want to holiday in Vancouver, never mind relocate there permanently. I was wary of this as I planned my visit to Vancouver to investigate what it offered as a holiday destination. Following the hype of the Winter Olympics held there in February and with serious interest in Vancouver as a winter retreat, I wondered if it could offer something just as appealing for summer visitors. Since I am used to carrying a rain cloud with me to almost everywhere I travel, I was surprised to touch down in Vancouver on a clear balmy evening in early June. It is probably worth mentioning here that I arrived eight hours later than planned as I missed my Vancouver connection in London, only to be kindly accommodated on a later departure via Edmonton by Air Canada. Thankful to be getting to Vancouver at all, I was on a serious high arriving into the city and passing streets like
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Granville added to my excitement with its eclectic mix of shops, restaurants that spilled out onto the street and residents who looked so chirpy they could have been on holiday. The scenery was just as inspiring. Vancouver’s skyline is jaw dropping as the city tucks itself neatly between snow-capped mountains and a shimmering coastline. This panorama confirms why Vancouver has been heralded one of the most scenic cities in the world. On a par with Sydney and Cape Town it matches them also in its dizzying array of suburbs and pot pourri of cultures. I was soon to realise that the Japanese guarantee the best sushi in Vancouver outside of Japan, the Australians provide some of the best outdoor adventure instructors and the Irish are integral to the buzz of city nightlife. With my wonderful Irish friend as my tour guide there was no chance of me falling into anything but the hotspots of Vancouver. We started with a Saturday night in Gastown before moving on to yuppie Yaletown and Kitsilano or Kitz as it is locally referred to. The latter has become the place for the Irish to make their base and it has a distinct resemblance to Sandycove or Blackrock with its long stretch of beach, cool hangouts, fresh market stores and boutiques that beg to
be perused. My holiday accommodation could have been at my friend’s charming home in Commercial but instead I chose to stay in the heart of the city at the Bayshore. The Westin has a prime location here straddling Stanley Park (Vancouver’s answer to Central Park) with its stunning forest, swimming pool, cycle paths and lots of greenery in between. I must have woken up with Canadian inspiration on my first morning as I went for a jog in the park before stopping at Tim Horton’s (Canada’s number one coffee outlet) for a coffee and bagel. A few hours later I was on Capilano Suspension Bridge and meandering through the treetops amid the lush greenery. Further uphill was Grouse Mountain which is a well known point for bear spotting and zip trekking. Although I didn’t see any grizzlies, I did catch a glimpse of white wolves from the safety of a gondola as we ascended the mountain. Bears and wolves might sound frightening to the first time visitor, but they are part of the natural habitat and the locals seem to take this in their stride with their motto “keep the towns clean so the bears don’t come roaming for food.” With an appetite like a grizzly, I was looking forward to one of
Vancouver’s finest pizzas later on that evening. However a recommendation to sample top notch sushi outshone the Italian option. I was still double checking the bill the next day as I couldn’t believe 18 pieces of sushi in a sit down restaurant cost less than $6. To get bargains like this in a city that is notoriously pricey makes any holidaymaker feel rather chuffed. Vancouver is the gateway to many intriguing destinations in Western Canada, such as Victoria which is the regional capital or the elegant city of Edmonton. Possibly its best known neighbour is Whistler, or Whistralia as it is fondly referred to given the number of Australians who now work there. I am not at all surprised why the Aussies have relocated to this resort town. It is an idyllic mountain location where you can ski down a glacier mountain, bike through dramatic terrain and swim in one of the many scenic lakes all in the one day. Whistler is easily accessible from Vancouver by car and bus, taking just over two hours. However a real thrill involved hopping on board The Rocky Mountaineer which chugs along the coastal route. The opulent experience was complemented by first class service on board and informative guides all the way. There is even an open carriage in the middle of the train so you can capture the perfect snapshots. When we disembarked at Whistler we didn’t have much time to explore the quaint village just yet as we were signed up for a zip trek through the rainforest. Three hours later I was cannon-balling 1200 feet above the canyon, surprisingly fearless of the dramatic heights that I was propelled above. Afterwards the hunger pangs were satisfied with delicious hot dogs and burgers from the main square before we rambled in and out of the stores browsing the discount rails for sports gear. Later that evening we found just enough room to fill up on delicious pasta and salad in Earl’s before having a few après drinks in the Amsterdam bar. The high
Farflung Holidays
10 THINGS TO DO IN VANCOUVER
■ The Rocky Mountaineer
altitude must have hit our or skytrain is extremely ■ Karen's zip trek energy levels as we were fit efficient and cabs are not for bed before we could make that expensive either. it to any of the renowned late Seaplanes are another way of night spots like Buffalo Bills. getting around and are a Although we weren’t common sight in Vancouver’s roughing it in Whistler, waters. Interestingly the city many do and camping is a has the highest sea plane popular weekend or holiday population in North America. activity. Glamping has even Biking is probably the most found its niche here as a popular way for getting happy balance of camping around the city and for with luxury trimmings. Canadians it makes sense as The next morning we took this way they are both off on a gondola up exercising and saving money. Blackcomb Mountain to see With invites to barbecues, firsthand that you can ski festivals and baseball games here in summer right up until July. If I had during my short stay, I could see the appeal known in advance I would have set myself for so many to live here. Even if the heavens the challenge of biking, skiing and break open, Vancouverites don’t let the swimming in the one day. Or else taken the temperamental climate ruin their plans. opposite approach and just chilled out in the Perhaps this is because they are guaranteed a Scandinavian inspired destination spa summer with high temperatures. situated a few miles from Whistler. But time Although I didn’t have shopping on my was not on our side and our Pacific Coach to-do list, I was tempted to have one short was soon to be picking us up for our return stroll down Robson Street before packing to Vancouver. Back in the city I had one day my bags. I was led to believe it would left to explore the rest of this enthralling not match up to shopping in metropolis - not nearly enough time to tick the States but I was lucky as I picked off everything on my wish list. Fortunately it up several bargains. My is a pedestrian friendly destination and credit card didn’t exceptionally easy to navigate from one area get a chance to to the next. If you rather not walk, the bus be exploited in
1. Hike the Grouse Grind, a steep uphill trek through the forest. It can take up to two hours but you can take the gondola ride back down for $5 2. Go celebrity spotting by watching a movie being made on the streets. Just look for large white trailers or see what current productions are being filmed on www.bcfilmcommission.com 3. Take a tour of Granville Island Public Market. Ask about local ingredients and what to make with them. 4. Make friends with the locals and if you are lucky you can be their buddy pass on Sundays which means free travel on the sky train. 5. On a clear night gaze at the stars for free just outside the Space Centre in Vanier Park 6. Dive in and have a swim at two of Vancouver’s outdoor public pools. The Kitsilano pool is one of the largest heated saltwater pools in Canada while Stanley Park’s comes with views across English Bay. 7. Have a game of pitch n putt into the twilight hours in Stanley Park 8. Check out the view of the city by kayaking your way along the waters of False Creek. 9. Rent a quadra-cycle and check out the greater Vancouver Zoo. 10. Warm your insides with a japapeno or chile pepper and chocolate gelato from La Casa Gelato, the only retailer in the world with 508 gelato flavours.
the boutiques nor had I the time to explore Granville Island properly, with its selection of artisan and jewellery stores. I also missed out on a visit to the extravagant residences on Vancouver Island, but I believe the locals when they say it is breathtaking. After all they are not lying when it comes to everything else that is on show in this enthralling city. As much as the sights, sounds and smells of Vancouver impressed me, it was the taste of it that has me craving a return. Who would have known I had to travel to Vancouver to get a serious love for sushi. ■ • Karen flew direct to Vancouver from London Heathrow with Air Canada. Flights are also available from Ireland with Air Canada via Toronto. For more information on flights and fares visit www.aircanada.com • For information on Vancouver visit www.tourismvancouver.com and for Whistler visit www.whistler.com • For package holidays and escorted tours to Canada visit www.touramerica.ie and www.americanholidays.ie
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Travel wishlist
My holiday itinerary... For some holidaymakers balming out on a beach is their dream escape. Others rather a jampacked itinerary writes CORINNA RAY as she talks to four jet-setters about their travel plans for this summer MICHELLE JACKSON
busy as I get bored easily. As I'm quite sporty, DAITHI O SÉ Author TV Presenter a beach holiday means loads of waterskiing, I will be going to Lake I am back on the road kayaking, swimming and snorkelling. The Garda in July with my this summer for a road people you're away with, the weather and husband and two trip. I am driving from the local amenities are the three most children. I love the border in Canada important things for a holiday. Also cost is holidays because they to the keys in Florida. pretty important. It’s awful to feel like a are where I get the It will take about seven tourist being ripped-off. I'm not very good at inspiration and weeks. I have been in packing light. I bring a decent selection of research for my novels so I always try to 39 of the 52 states. Some of the Americans do summer dresses, bikinis, kaftans, wedges and chose somewhere that I haven’t been before. fifty before they turn fifty which is cool. I flip-flops, a few little cardigans for the I have heard a lot of great things about Lake think the weather works well for me with evenings and some good books to read. A Garda. We hope to take a day trip to Venice few weeks ago, I enjoyed a lovely few days in road trips as the weather is always nice. I also as my son really wants to go there after enjoy America as the Americans are so off the Spain with some girlfriends. It was just a doing a project about it in school this year. wall. I don’t know if you would get the same relaxing sunshine break and a really cheap We are an active family: we live in Howth holiday. We got great value flights and stayed people in Europe. If I was to do a road trip in and enjoy sailing and the outdoor life and Europe I would like to drive down to in a friend's apartment and just chilled out. were attracted by all of the activities somewhere like the former Iron Curtain. We It was the perfect low-cost break and I love a available around Lake Garda. Gardaland and do know a fair bit about the German, and the good bargain holiday. I hope to get away the Aquapark are a huge draw for the kids. Spanish but the Albanians and Croatians again for a few more days at some stage over We chose an all-inclusive option in a four would be very interesting. the year. value star hotel and it has worked out terrific If you fancy an affordable sun holiday without IT MAKES SENSE TO GO OFF ON A WALKING OR CYCLING for money. Everything down to bike-hire, compromising on luxury then east meets west beCHEAPER THAN RENTING A CAR AND HOLIDAY AS ITcould IS MUCH kids clubs and all drinks and ice-creams are your best bet writes JENNA SWEENEY included. We plan to cycle and see as much DRIVING AROUND SOME PLACE” Tony Wheeler of the countryside as we can during our stay. We will probably hire a car for a few days but leave some time for the pool and generally balance our itinerary between sightseeing and active relaxation. We always end up spending more money than we intended as a family because we try to pack so much in on our holidays. If a chance trip to see dolphins comes up or to take a train journey that we haven’t budgeted for we will say what the hell and pay for it when we get home. Having an open and inquisitive mind is the most important thing to bring on holiday. The first item I will be packing is my camera. I only write about places that I have visited and I find photos help enormously to recollect once I have been away from a place. Taking lots of photographs can help you to relive those precious moments too. • Michelle is the author of ‘Two Days in Biarritz,’ ‘Three Nights in New York’ and her new novel ‘One Kiss in Havana’ will be released on the 5th July.
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ROSANNA DAVISON Model As much as I love exploring gorgeous, hidden parts of Ireland, I also love the complete anonymity of being abroad. And the better weather too! It really depends on the type of holiday, but I do like it to keep
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TONY WHEELER Founder of Lonely Planet There are always new places to find and explore in the world. I try and go to at least a few new ones every year. I would be disappointed if there wasn’t a new place to visit. This year I went to Malawi and then Costa Rica which is a bit like Ireland with lots of adventure. I have a friend who has been to every single country in the world but I haven’t got to his stage quite yet. I think people are trying to make their money go further with holidays now and that is why adventure holidays are great. It makes sense to go off on a walking or cycling holiday as it is much cheaper than renting a car and driving around some place. Sarajevo is one of my favourite city breaks to explore. It was completely off the radar and now it’s back on it. ■
My Favourite place
Hooked on
Gozo KEVIN FLANAGAN explains why an island whose name sounds like that of a character from Sesame Street gets his number one vote y favourite place in Ireland is Dingle. It has a character all of its own and when it is sunny it’s literally heaven on earth. The only problem with Dingle is it’s rarely sunny and I’ve often trudged around its cold, wet streets trying to imagine what it would be like if it was magically transported into the middle of the Med! Well, seven years ago I discovered a Mediterranean island which could well pass for An Daingean and goes under the strange name of Gozo. Gozo is the small island next to Malta, about the size of Manhattan but with only 30,000 inhabitants (as opposed to some 1.6 million for Manhattan). To get to Gozo you fly to Malta and take a 15-minute ferry ride. As the water slips by it feels like you are stepping back in time. In Gozo the pace of life is slow, there are few cars on the roads and just one set of traffic lights on the entire island. I discovered the unique charm of Gozo when a good friend of mine bought a villa there in 2004 and invited my son and I over. We had a ball, learning to scuba dive in the clear blue Mediterranean waters during the day while enjoying seafood at quaint but reasonably priced restaurants at night. (My favourite restaurant is located on the beach at Mgarr ix-Xini, where the shrimps are barbequed the moment they are taken out of the water. You an eat them while taking in the
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view, washing everything down with remarkably good local wine.) Summer weekends in Gozo are filled with the sound of fireworks as each of the small villages celebrates its own patron saint. Everyone dresses up and the narrow streets are filled with locals and visitors alike, all enjoying the carnival atmosphere. After that first memorable visit I have returned to Gozo every year at least once and often twice or three times. Ryanair run
several flights a week to Malta, which makes travel cheap and easy to plan. When my friend’s villa is not available I stay in one of the many hotels owned by the Borg family. Hotel Ta’ Cenc is a five-star property that is great for a ‘get away from it all’ break. It has a wonderful spa and offers quiet walks along the cliffs facing Malta. Couples looking for a romantic break could try St Patrick’s Hotel in Xlendi, where you can stroll hand-in-hand along the pictureperfect promenade or try one of the many excellent restaurants. On the other side of the island in the village of Xaghra is the Cornucopia Hotel. This is particularly suitable for those with young families, who can rent one of the large bungalows overlooking the bay at Marsalforn; and if you fancy a day building sandcastles with the kids, Ramla beach is just a five minutes’ drive away. In the seven years I have been coming to Gozo I have noticed being joined on the flight by an ever-increasing number of Irish people. Monica Borg, who runs the Cornucopia Hotel, explains why she believes the island is so popular with the Irish: “Irish people are at heart very Mediterranean. They are very social and
love nothing more than chatting and relaxing over a meal and bottle of wine. They also share our Catholic heritage while at the same time having the same distrust of authority. We really are like cousins. “Monica has noticed an increasing number of Irish people getting married on the island. “They find it considerably cheaper and as a result we’ve hosted several Irish wedding receptions in the palazzo at Ta’ Cenc. Family and friends come over and stay in the hotel so it’s all under one roof and the couple can stay on to enjoy their honeymoon. I think the weather makes a big difference. Guests often tell me it’s raining back in Ireland while they’re out having their wedding photos taken against a perfectly blue sky.” I have found many other similarities between Gozo and Dingle. English is spoken by just about everyone on the island but in a strong accent that is often difficult to decipher; you drive on the same side of the road and often over potholes; and, people stop their cars in the middle of the high street to have a chat with a passer-by! Yes, as I walk around Gozo I often think I’m in An Daingean – except for the fact that I have to put on factor 15 instead of a raincoat. ■
FACTBOX • • • • •
For more information on Malta and Gozo visit www.visitmalta.com Fly direct to Malta with Ryanair www.ryanair.com Accommodation at Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa, Sannat Email: tacenc@vjborg.com or visit www.tacenchotel.com Cornucopia Hotel & Bungalows, Xaghra Email: cornucopia@vjborg.com or visit www.cornucopiahotel.com St Patrick’s Hotel, Xlendi Email stpatricks@vjborg.com or visit www.vjborg.com CAR HIRE: Gozo Garage, Sir Luigi Camilleri Street, Victoria Tel: +35621551866 • E-mail: gozogarge@vjborg.com DIVING SCHOOLS: St Andrew’s Divers Cove Email standrew@gozodive.com or visit www.gozodive.com
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■ The spectacular Ramala Beach in Gozo
Ash proof travel
Boats, trains and automobiles PATRICK RYAN goes in search of alternative ways to holiday this summer, with no chance of volcanic ash disrupting your plans. ROAD TRIP If you're looking for adventure in your zippy set of wheels then join the millions of likeminded people who are keen to explore places on their own time and itinerary. Road tripping is an odyssey, where random detours and croissant breaks happen on your schedule. Take the car by ferry to France and head for a destination in Europe that you are keen to explore. Or take in several countries on the one road trip. There's good reason France is one of the world's most popular driving destinations: as well as excellent roads it hosts copious attractions, from bike-beckoning, wine-making countryside and Roman ruins to Renaissance castles and art-saturated museums. Travel down to the south and you will uncover France's mystique with forays into its historic cities, pleasant rural scenery, and palm-studded shores. For those who want to move on to Italian territory the lakes of Lombardy, and charming cities will provide perfect pit stops. It may seem like a lot of driving but covering this
SAILING AND BOATING If we are set for a summer of sun, cruising the coast of West Cork could compete with the Greek islands. The options for sailing holidays in this part of Ireland include day trips or week long tours visiting the islands like Cape Clear and Inish Beg. If you have small children then the cruising and adventure is set at a pace to suit them, while the theory and boat handling training is learnt along the way by the parents and older children. Short sails and lots of stops give all the family a chance to enjoy the cruising and coastline. Anchor up in coves for a picnic lunch and quick dip or paddle ashore to explore the coast. You can tie up in the evenings at locations to suit your needs, from quiet anchorages to convenient piers. The qualified skipper is also an instructor, so you can benefit from professional training as well as the peace of mind of a skipper that knows the boat,
journey in two weeks would mean a comfortable amount of time to stop in places and relax, while including two countries into your holiday itinerary. A family of four can travel with their car in a four berth cabin from Ireland to France from €138 per person return, a total of €552.00. • www.brittanyferries.com
TRAIN JOURNEY If train travel conjures images of frazzled commuters crammed onto a rickety carriage, take pleasure in the nostalgia of a more genteel era of train travel. Train travel is by no means the fastest or most efficient way to get around but it is one of the most atmospheric with speeds perfect for sightseeing. For the more scenic train journeys it is necessary to take a ferry first to France or the UK with prices from €79. Inter-rail is one of the cheapest and most accessible ways to journey through Europe. There are five types of
global pass, and each one is slightly different. The key to understanding which type is suitable for your journey is in the difference between ‘continuous’ passes and ‘flexi’. While it is cheaper for the under 26’s to travel on inter rail it is not exclusive to the young or gap generation, and more families are signing up to this type of travel for cultural holiday experiences. It offers good value too with prices from €399 for a month’s pass. A 20 day round trip from London to Thessaloniki in Greece includes a six day stop in Greece and three day mini breaks in Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade. There are also Spain/France packages which includes Barcelona and Valencia, or a ten day mini adventure to Berlin and Prague.
coastline and is experience at having novice crew. Prices vary from €299 for weekend sailing trips to €750 for seven day trips with www.westcorksailing.com Another boating option is a holiday on the Shannon with Emerald Star. The perk of this holiday is that no boating experience is needed and you can start your cruise from Carrick on Shannon, Portumna or Belturbet. Most will take a week on board and stop off in the many towns along the way to eat, drink and explore the sights To cruise the Shannon for seven nights prices vary from €771 for three people on board or for a larger boat that sleeps up to five people this is priced from €1,371. ■ • Visit www.emeraldstar.ie
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Family Travel
Who says dreams don’t come true After missing out on the childhood Disneyland experience, KAREN CREED eventually made it there with her niece, only to realise it’s just as impressive for grown ups. here was disbelief from some friends when I revealed my latest adventure with excitement. “Disneyland with a four year old,” commented one. “That would be my worst nightmare.” Others were in awe of my good deed, taking my niece away to a children’s paradise for three days. The reality, however, was far from what they assumed. I myself wanted to live out the Disneyland Paris dream. Unlike most of them who had the chance as a child or a teenager to visit the wonderland, this was my golden opportunity to get lost in Sleeping Beauty’s castle, overdose on pink candyfloss and meet my favourite Disney characters from childhood, all the while using my four year old niece as a perfectly reasonable excuse. After seeing numerous TV adverts. Amelia Rae already had her own checklist lined up which we discussed in detail on the flight from Dublin to Paris. It went as follows: visit Sleeping Beauty’s castle; meet Sleeping Beauty; kiss Minnie Mouse. Three goals in three days was certainly feasible, especially with some planning in advance. I knew that Sleeping Beauty would make several appearances throughout the day in both the parade and her own meet and greet in the main square. However I predicted the Minnie Mouse encounter was not going to be the easiest to fulfil. However when we arrived at our hotel the concierge recommended I book a lunch with the Disney characters at Café Disney as a guarantee for Amelia Rae to meet her idol. With this booked for the next day, there was nothing left to do but enjoy the three day adventure for all it was worth. Like most visitors we chose to stay in one of the hotels on the Disneyland site. The Newport Bay is a favourite among Irish families, probably because it is a stone’s
T
throw from the parks and its nautical theme is quite endearing to both kids and adults. Rooms are designed with so much space that they fit a family of four comfortably while the Disneyland store is the only part of the hotel that you might want to avoid if your child has a tendency to ask for everything under the sun. Although I’m not a parent, I can vouch for the fact that it requires serious willpower not to give in to every request; otherwise you will go home with bags full of merchandise and spoilt brats. My philosophy was a treat at the start (which was a Minnie Mouse balloon in our case) and a treat at the end of the trip as a souvenir. Fortunately for Amelia Rae and my pocket, Mickey Mouse had left her a few gifts in our hotel knowing it was her birthday the next day. So before we even stepped foot into the park she had clocked up a bag full of gifts including a Nemo teddy, a glittering Disney mug and an all important autograph book so she could get the signatures of her Disney idols. The golden gates were not far from our hotel but rather than take the short walk, we jumped on board a train right outside our hotel that took us there for €2 each. Free buses depart from the hotel also which is ideal for those keen to keep the costs down. We avoided long queues at the ticket desk by booking our tickets in advance. With two parks, it's usually a good idea to get a Park Hopper pass, allowing you to jump between Disneyland and Walt Disney Studios parks whenever you want. Once we walked through the gates of Disneyland Park it became somewhat of a blur for Amelia Rae. Such was the build up of excitement she wanted to do everything all at once. There was the magical carousel, the flying elephants, Peter Pan’s flight and the Disney Playhouse. Fascinated by all the other children wandering around, she was eager to follow their footsteps to see what attraction they were venturing to next. We followed the crowds and it was only when we passed the fountain and turned onto Main Street that we both stopped in our tracks. There in front of us was Sleeping Beauty’s
Family Travel
■ Rafael Nadal celebrates his French Open win with a visit to Disneyland Paris
castle. It is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown of the Disneyland Park and is met with gasps of “oohs” and “aahs” all day long. It was a pity I did not capture Amelia Rae’s expression on camera as I was too busy looking at it in sheer amazement. We both agreed to forget about the carousel and other rides for a while and instead take a stroll around the mesmerising castle. The flowing river and mystical bridge leading to the castle caused her to shriek in delight while she tried to convince other children nearby that Rapunzel probably lived in the top tower and Cinderella in another. Just like her aunt, Amelia Rae has a insatiable appetite and I wasn’t surprised that the excitement of living out her Disneyland fantasy weren’t enough to stop her from moaning of hunger pains. So off we went in search of a snack point. I was determined to
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THE NOTION THAT DISNEYLAND IS JUST FOR KIDS WAS PUT TO BED SEVERAL TIMES OVER THE FEW DAYS. IT ISN'T JUST DARING ATTRACTIONS LIKE TOWER OF TERROR AND SPACE MOUNTAIN THAT ARE GEARED TOWARDS THE OLDER OR MORE FEARLESS VISITOR.”
find one with healthy bites so that I wouldn’t be left minding a four year old with a sick tummy later on that evening. Fortunately the French attitude to a balanced diet is evident even in Disneyland, and there are a number of restaurants that offer fresh salads and sandwiches. This is of course alongside all the typical fast food eateries including the largest McDonalds in France. It is not all cheap and cheerful either. There are spectacular settings for dinner and lunch including King Ludwig’s Castle and the Blue Lagoon. The notion that Disneyland is just for kids was put to bed several times over the few days I was there. It isn’t just daring attractions like Tower of Terror and Space Mountain that are geared towards the older or more fearless visitor. When we were queuing for certain rides I encountered many adults without kids
in tow, who were there for their own entertainment. Even tennis champion Rafael Nadal chose to celebrate his recent win at the French Open with a visit to Disneyland. It was also at dinners and lunches that I noticed just how many couples swarm here. During our lunch date with Minnie Mouse in Café Disney, an Italian couple at the table next to us were palpitating with excitement about seeing Mickey or il topolino as they referred to him. While they posed for pictures with Mickey, we were flattered with all the attention Minnie bestowed on us. The perky mouse really pulled it out of the bag as she announced to Amelia that she shared the same birthday as her, and that she was also turning four. This was enough to send Amelia Rae into a tizzy of excitement and Minnie rounded off a memorable lunch by taking to the floor for a waltz with Mickey as we all cheered them on. Afterwards we headed for the flying elephants, cooled down with drinks at the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party and went in search of Alice in her wonderland. Fast Track was my life saviour for the few days as it meant we could book in advance the times to go on certain rides. We also headed for the Disney Playhouse to see the Disney characters act out some endearing scenes. I felt the trip was almost becoming an educational one at this point as we watched the shows in French, with Amelia Rae Rae shouting Oui Oui with the rest of the children. At 5.30pm we joined the crowds that lined the street to watch the Wish upon a dream parade which is the climax of every day. With the floats from all the Disney movies serenading the crowds it was led by Minnie and Mickey, and followed by The Lion King, Aladdin and many other familiar characters. The latest introduction to the parade “Princess Tiana,stole the show.” It’s Disney’s first African princess and obviously shows how much Disney is trying to cater to its international fan base. As Tiana and her colleagues took the time |to wave to everyone on both sides of the pavement, I had my second chance to capture Amelia Rae’s look of delight. The next day we waved goodbye to Minnie and had our last merry go round on the carousel before it was time for us to leave. “But not before I get my present,” said Amelia Rae reminding me of the souvenir promise. I asked her what she wanted, expecting requests for an expensive princess dress or the sleeping beauty castle she had spotted in the shop window on Main Street. Instead she shocked me, asking for a green yo-yo that cost just €3. With a chance to practice her merci to the yo-yo seller, she skipped along telling me how much she loved Disneyland and wanted to come back. I’ve no doubt she will return to this wonderland again. Who knows she might even bring her aunt along for the ride. ■ • For more information on Disneyland and its attractions and accommodation visit www.disneylandparis.ie • For holidays to Disneyland from Ireland visit www.abbeytravel.ie or www.breakaway.ie • Getting there: Air France flies up to seven times daily from Dublin to Paris Charles de Gaulle. Return fares start from €165.For more information or to book online visit www.airfrance.ie or for telephone bookings call 0871 663 3777.
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