Beer & Brewer 44 Autumn 2018 Teaser

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Autumn 2018

FEATURES 18 Pale Ale – A Lighter Shade of Pale Luke Robertson explores this ubiquitous and wide-ranging style of beer, which has as plenty of sub categories and innovations, talking to some of the best brewers in the business about it

26 Logistics and Keg Technology The beer you brew might be fantastic, but how it’s transported and stored has a huge say in how it pours and tastes. Luke Robertson shows us what steps are being taken to improve and evolve the process

32 Hop Harvest It’s hop season, so what better time to explore this key component in the brewing process? Jeremy Sambrooks takes us to the hop farms of Australia and beyond

38 Beer Packaging – Art and Design The creative approaches undertaken by brewers when it comes to designing the packaging for their beers have transformed the image of the industry for the better

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HOMEBREWER 42 Welcome 43 Letters 44 Q&A Home legend John Palmer responds to questions and takes a look at colour measure, no-chill effects and cube hopping

46 No Rulz No Rulz gets stuck into pale ale

48 Recipes Wheat beer from Coopers and a homage to old school IPAs from Andrew Childs

50 Ginger Beer Chris Thomas takes a look at the underappreciated but growing world of ginger beer

52 Homebrewer to Pro Brewer A panel of experts takes us through the processes that took them from home brewing to the professional arena

57 Keep it Clean Homebrewer technical editor Jake Brandish highlights the virtue of cleanliness

58 Charlie Bamforth More insights and wisdom from the Pope of Foam

“One of the great things about pale ale is there are so many different varieties. It’s the confusing thing about it, but it’s also an endearing thing” Ross Terlick

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REGULARS 6 The Brew What’s happening and things to do

8 News All the latest from the Aus/NZ industry

12 World News Tales from across the seas

14 Bits & Bobs 16 New Venues 64 Entertaining – Food Ricardo Amare del Castillo takes us through the taco-sphere

68 Tasting Notes Our tasting panel get their lips around some cracking beers from Aus and beyond

78 Directory 82 A Pint With… Scott Hargrave, head brewer at Balter

“Seasonality can have a profound impact on the outcomes of a hop crop. This season is looking great” Tim Lord

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AUTUMN 2018  5


WORLD NEWS

World News WHAT’S MAKING HEADLINES IN THE WORLD OF BEER?

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Vietnam

Sri Lanka

PREMIUM BEER CONSUMPTION SKYROCKETS

GOVERNMENT REINSTATES ALCOHOL BAN FOR WOMEN

Vietnamese drinkers are getting a taste for premium and superpremium beers, with consumption more than doubling between 2011 and 2016. According to GlobalData, the sale volume of Bia Hoi – a local, unfiltered homebrewed beer – has declined from 3.5m hectolitres in 2011 to 3m in 2016, while premium beer jumped from 4m hectolitres to 10m. Sales of superpremium beer have more than tripled, driven by a rise in disposal income.

In mid-January, the Sri Lankan finance ministry announced that it would lift a decades-old ban on women buying or serving liquor in bars and restaurants. But president Maithripala Sirisena backpedalled days later, supported by his cabinet. Historically, the law has been left largely unenforced, with many Sri Lankans unaware of its existence. Sirisena was criticised for political opportunism and playing to supporters in rural, conservative areas.

United States

Israel

Mozambique

Japan

HEINEKEN STARTS BUILDING

BEER SHIPMENTS HIT RECORD LOW

Heineken laid the foundation stone of its first brewery in Mozambique in early December 2017, breaking ground in what will be a $100m (USD) investment. The 0.8m hectolitre brewery will brew for the domestic market and is expected to create 200 jobs. According to Heineken, the first bottle is expected to come off the production line in the first half of 2019. The brewing giant has only had been importing its beers into the southeastern African nation since 2016.

Beer shipments in Japan fell for the 13th straight year in 2017, according to data released by five major breweries (Asahi Breweries Ltd, Kirin Brewery Co., Suntory Beer Ltd, Sapporo Breweries Ltd and Orion Breweries Ltd). Total export shipments of beer and ‘beer-like’ products (including happoshu, a low malt ‘beer-like’ drink) numbered 407m cases in 2017; beer shipments fell 2.9% in 2017 to 204.59m cases. The breweries point to shifting tastes of younger consumers as a factor.

United Kingdom

BREWERY TO OPEN AT DISNEYLAND

AB INBEV BUYS BEER TECH STARTUP

NEW HONEY BEER BREWED UNVEILED

San Diego-based Ballast Point Brewing has announced it will open a brewery at the Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, marking the first-ever on-site brewery for Disney. “We’re bringing Ballast Point to the happiest place on earth!” the brewery says on Facebook. The space will include an outdoor beer garden, a 7,300 sqft brewery, a tasting room and a kitchen. Ballast Point will pour its signature beers, as well as limitedrelease brews made especially for the Disneyland location. The venue is expected to open in late 2018.

AB InBev acquired Tel Avivbased startup WeissBeerger for a total of $80m in late January. WeissBeerger has developed ‘Internet-of-Things’ analytics tools, including sensors in beer taps, refrigerators and other critical points in the supply chain, giving bar, pub, restaurant owners and brewers a more detailed picture about the quality of their product, while also tracking consumer habits. WeissBeerger claims that the tools can increase revenue from each beer tap by 32% and reduce wastage by 50%.

A new honey beer brewed with botanicals has been launched in the UK. A collaboration between Bang-On Brewery and scientists from Cardiff University, ‘Bang-On Mêl’ (Mêl means honey in Welsh) is said to have antibacterial properties similar to Manuka honey from New Zealand. “We’re not making health claims about the beer,” says Bang-On Brewery’s Craig Jackson. “It’s simply about producing a great taste, but we hope the project may evolve into something that could change the culture of how beer is consumed.”

Germany

WEIHENSTEPHAN COLLABORATES WITH SIERRA NEVADA The world’s oldest brewery Weihenstephan, operational since 1040, has a new hefeweizen – brewed in collaboration with Sierra Nevada. The first-of-its-kind collaboration, a hoppy wheat beer called Braupakt (German for ‘brewery pact’), uses the German Hallertauer and the West Coast Amarillo and Chinook hops, as well as the yeast strain developed by Weihenstephan for use in its flagship Hefeweissbier. The onetime release is scheduled to arrive in the US in April.

AUTUMN 2018  13


HOP HARVEST

The n o s a e S h s e r F of Hops

HOP FARMS TEND TO BE QUIET PLACES – EXCEPT FOR A FEW WEEKS IN EARLY AUTUMN, WHEN FARMS ACROSS THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE ARE ABUZZ WITH THE EXCITEMENT OF A FRESH HARVEST, WRITES JEREMY SAMBROOKS.

H

ops. Of the four ingredients found in almost every beer in the world – the others being water, malted barley and yeast – they’re the only one that’s truly unique to beer. Hop cones are the female

flowers of the hop plant Humulus Lupulus, a climber that is usually trained to grow up strings in hop fields. They belong to the Cannabaceae family of flowering plants, which also includes cannabis, though they have none of the notorious weed’s psychoactive properties. After being picked, hops

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HOP HARVEST

are usually dried, processed and pressed into pellets before being used in the brewing process, although whole hop flowers can be used as well. Hops impart beer with a tangy bitterness, as well as distinctive flavours and aromas. While people have been brewing and drinking beer for millennia (evidence suggests at least 7,000 years), hops are a relatively new addition, not gaining popularity until the 13th century. Prior to then, beer derived its bitterness from a mixture of herbs known as gruit. As well as providing their distinctive aromas and bitterness to balance the sweetness of malted grains, hops are used in beer making for their antibacterial properties, which help to prevent spoilage. For most of the year, hop farms are quiet places, as the crop is carefully tended and measurements are taken to determine the

Hop lingo Alpha acid – Found in the resin glands of hop flowers, alpha acids are the source of hop bitterness. The higher the alpha acid content and the longer the hops are boiled, the more bitterness is produced. Hop contracts – Put simply, these are contracts for breweries to buy hops, usually years in advance. This allows growers to know how much of each hop variety to plant each year. It also ensures that the breweries can guarantee their supply of hops, which is crucial for the highly sought-after varieties. The spot market – The market for the hops left over after contracts are filled. Buying hops on the spot market is invariably more expensive and often means that brewers cannot get their hands on the varieties they want. Hop shortages – What happens when demand for certain hop varieties exceeds supply, hop shortages can result from environmental phenomenon, such as drought or severe storms, or simply from increases in production failing to meet increasing demand. International Bitterness Units (IBUs) – A scale used to measure hop-derived bitterness. It’s important to note that IBUs don’t measure perceived bitterness, but the amount of isomerized alpha acids. One IBU is equal to 1mg of iso alpha acid per litre of beer. Noble Hops – A term that refers to four traditional varieties of European hops: Hallertauer, Saaz, Spalt and Tettnang. All four varieties are characterized as aroma hops as they are relatively low in alpha acids, but highly aromatic.

right time to begin the annual harvest. Then, for a period of a few weeks, there is a buzz of excitement as fresh hop cones are stripped from the bines, kilned, baled, pelletized and packed. Each new harvest’s crop will have a slight variation in flavour – a reflection of the seasons passed.

AUSTRALIA’S HARVEST Hops were first introduced to Australia in 1822 by William Shoobridge, a Kentish farmer, whose son Ebenezer established the Bushy Park hop plantation in Tasmania, which today is owned and operated by Hop Products Australia (HPA). Today, between Bushy Park and Rostrevor Hop Gardens in Victoria, HPA handles around 90% of the hops grown in Australia. Their hop harvest takes place annually from March into early April. “Seasonality can have a profound impact on the outcomes of a hop crop,” says Tim Lord, managing director of HPA, “and that’s before any natural disasters such as hail or heatwaves. This season is looking great, so fingers crossed for a good result from here. “The changing tastes of beer drinkers has affected our business – it has caused us to release new varieties and offer new choices in flavour to the brewers. Enigma is our newest commercialised variety and is becoming more widely available. Our next experimental variety HPA-016 will be available to commercial brewers in very limited amounts this year too.”

“WE ARE SEEING SOME NEW EUROPEAN HOP VARIETIES ENTERING MARKET, INCLUDING ARIANA, CALLISTA, CARDINAL, DRAGON, FOX AND WOLF. PLUS, WE ARE EXPECTING TWO NEW VARIETIES FROM NEW ZEALAND IN THE NOT SO DISTANT FUTURE – TRIALS FROM THESE BLEW US AWAY!” – JOHN BURRIDGE AUTUMN 2018  33


RECIPES

Australian Hopped Pale Ale – All Grain Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.046 FG: 1.009 ABV: 4.8% IBU: 26 Volume: 23 litres

Ingredients 4.5kg Coopers Premium Ale Malt 250g Briess Carapils

No Rulz Goes Pale Ale REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR MARTIN POTTER, AKA NO RULZ, TAKES A LOOK AT AUSTRALIAN PALE ALES. WHILE NOT QUITE ABANDONING THE RULES, THESE ARE TASTY RECIPES THAT USE THE NEW RANGE OF COOPERS MALTS.

T

his month we’re looking at more subtle flavoured Australian pale ales. Many people think of Australian pale ales as a little dull, but they don’t have to be. This little experimental pale was a welcome and refreshing change to the keg system at home. It was the second brew while we were trialling the new Coopers Premium Ale Malt as a base malt. The relatively small Galaxy late and dry hop additions aren’t overpowering, allowing the melon notes

from Summer hops to make their presence felt. In this recipe, we used reverse osmosis water and added 10g Calcium Sulphate and 4g Calcium Chloride to the mash water. Sparge water was acidified to pH of 6.00 with a few mls of 88% Lactic Acid. The whole aim here was to get a very sessionable pale ale with Australian hops that wasn’t over the top, but rather just enough to be satisfying. Galaxy brought its usual passionfruit and the Summer contributes a nice subtle melon-like character.

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100g Briess (60o L) Caramel Munich Malt 14g Super Alpha hops (can substitute with Dr Rudi hops) 30g Galaxy hops 45g Summer hops Safale US-05 yeast

Method 1. Mash for 60 minutes at 66°C for a medium light body 2. Mash out at 76°C 3. Boil for 60 minutes, adding the Super Alpha for the duration of the boil 4. Add 10g of both Galaxy and Summer hops with 10 minutes remaining in the boil 5. Chill to 18°C and transfer to fermenter before pitching yeast 6. Ferment for seven days at 18°C 7. On day seven, dry hop for five days with 20g of Galaxy hops and 35g of Summer hops 8. On day 12 chill the beer and add finings 9. Check the gravity and if it is at or near 1.009 and consistent for consecutive days, then bottle or keg then enjoy! NOTE: If Using the No-Chill method, bring the 60 minute addition forward to 20 Minutes, use the 10 minute addition as a cube hop and dry hop the same.


Australian Hopped Pale Ale – Extract with Specialty Malts Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.045 FG: 1.008 ABV: 4.8% IBU: 26 Volume: 23 litres

Ingredients 1.5kg Briess CBW Pilsen Light extract 1.5kg Briess CBW Golden Light extract 500g Light Dry Malt extract 250g Briess Carapils malt (cracked) 100g Briess (60o L) Caramel Munich malt (cracked) 14g Super Alpha hops (can substitute with Dr Rudi hops) 30g Galaxy hops 45g Summer hops Safale US-05 yeast

Method 1. Bring 3 litres of water to 66-67°C in a small pot and steep the grains for 20 minutes 2. Meanwhile bring about 6 litres of water to the boil in a large (12-15 litre) pot. 3. Strain the liquid from the steeped grains into the larger pot and return to the boil. 4. Add all extract, stirring to break up lumps of the dry extract 5. Add Super Alpha hops for the duration of the 60 minute boil 6. Add 10g of both Galaxy and Summer hops with 10 minutes remaining in the boil 7. Create a whirlpool for 10 minutes to encourage cooling, then transfer to the fermenter. Top up to 23 litres using near freezing water. 8. When the temperature is at 18°C, transfer to fermenter and pitch yeast 9. Ferment for 7 days at 18°C 10. On day 7 dry hop for 5 days with 20g of Galaxy hops and 35g of Summer hops 11. On day 12 chill the beer and add finings 12. Check the gravity and if it is at or near 1.009 and consistent for consecutive days, then bottle or keg then enjoy!

AUTUMN 2018  47


ENTERTAINING – FOOD

TACO ’BOUT AUTHENTIC ENJOY TACOS THE AUTHENTIC WAY: FULL OF THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS AND BURSTING WITH THE TASTE OF SOUTH AMERICA

T

his is a book of favourite taco recipes from Ricardo Amare del Castillo, a passionate Mexican who left home in his 20s and went on to become a

restaurateur and a representative of modern Mexico halfway around the world in Australia. Coming from one of the oldest civilisations on the planet, del Castillo has followed his passion to establish restaurants that recreate authentic Mexican experiences – like Playa Takeria, in the Sydney suburb of Darlinghurst. “I’ll never forget my first smell of tacos as a child and the barbacoa tacos that we used to share with the family on Sundays,” recalls del Castillo. “We Mexicans say that the way a taco makes you feel is hard to describe. For me and for many Mexicans, ‘tacos are life, and life is tacos’.” The recipes in Tacos are sourced from the heart of Mexico; the reader is shown how to create the fillings, sauces, and tortillas which make store-bought tacos look dull and tasteless by comparison. Filled with mouthwatering recipes for delicious beef, chicken, seafood and vegetarian tacos, and thanks to its vibrant pictures and quick and easy recipes, Tacos will inspire you to create amazing taco dishes the authentic Mexican way.

This is an edited extract from Tacos: Authentic Mexican Tacos The Playa Takeria Way by Ricardo Amare Del Castillo, published by New Holland Publishers. It’s available from all good bookstores or online (RRP $39.99)

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ENTERTAINING – FOOD

HOMEMADE TORTILLAS Ingredients 2 cups masa harina ½ spoon of salt 1½ cups of hot tap water

Method Create the dough by mixing the masa harina and the salt in a bowl. Add the water slowly and stir for few minutes. Massage the dough using your hands for two minutes in a mixing bowl until smooth. Give the masa time to absorb the water. If you want a better result rest the dough for 30 minutes.

ARRACHERA TACO Serves 4 Ingredients 500g beef flank steak 200ml dark beer (dark lager, brown ale or stout) 1 tablespoon beef stock 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 4 lemons, juiced 3 garlic cloves, minced Salt, to taste 4 corn tortillas

Method Preheat oven to 180–190°C (350–375°F) for heating the tortillas (if using this method). In a large bowl, add the meat. Pour over with beer, seasoning sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and garlic. Season with salt. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour. On a hot barbecue plate or frypan, cook the meat for three to five minutes on each side or until cooked to your liking. Remove from the plate and cut the meat into strips. Heat the tortillas in the oven for one to two minutes. Alternatively, heat a frypan and add the tortillas, one at a time. Cook for one to two minutes each side. Keep warm while you heat the rest of the tortillas. Serve the steak on hot tortillas.

When you feel the dough is smooth then it is ready and you can then start creating balls in your hands. Mould the balls to about the size of a golf ball, this will create a 15cm (6”) tortilla. You can make bigger or smaller balls. To press the dough you can either use a tortilla press, or a rolling pin. The tortilla press will make it easier to make round tortillas, however, you can also press the dough underneath a heavy skillet for the shape. Cook the tortillas for 70 seconds, until the edges are starting to curl up and the bottoms look dry and pebbly, then flip it over and do the same to the other side. Place the tortillas straight under a tea towel or in a warm place to keep them warm until you need them. Note: To make corn tortillas we need masa harina. This is a ground from corn kernels that have being soaked in water with lime. This solution changes the structure of the corn, making it softer and with a great nutritional content.

AUTUMN 2018  65


RECIPES

RECIPES

Vintner’s Lager

Hoptoberfest Hazy German IPA – All Grain Recipe

THE TEAM AT COOPERS HAVE DELIVERED THE PERFECT FRUIT-INSPIRED HOMEBREW RECIPE FOR A SUNNY SUMMER AFTERNOON

Y

ou know the dilemma… it’s a beautiful sunny afternoon and you just can’t work out if it’s a beer day or a wine day? Well hey, why can’t it be both? And no, we don’t mean mixing your bevvies – we mean a drop of cheeky, fruit-inspired Vintner’s Lager. Highly sought after Nelson Sauvin hops give this brew a

Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.057 FG: 1.012 IBU: 12 ABV: 5.9% Volume: 22 Litres

quirky wine character reminiscent of a crisp Sauvignon Blanc. But this

Ingredients

ain’t no wine – it’s still very much a bold malty beer that uncorks a

1.7kg Thomas Coopers 86 Days Pilsner

slightly sweet biscuity backdrop for the hops to show off their white

1.5kg Light Dry Malt Extract (LDME)

wine, rockmelon, and tropical fruits traits.

250g Caramel Hell Grains (cracked) 25g Nelson Sauvin Hop Pellets 25g Enigma Hop Pellets Saflager S-23 Dry Yeast

Method 1. The day before brew day, soak the cracked grain in a small mesh bag in a pot with about 3 litres of cold water. Fit the lid and sit it in the fridge overnight. If the grains have not already been cracked, place them in a plastic zip-lock sandwich bag and crack them using a rolling pin 2. On brew day lift the mesh bag with grains out of the pot and allow the liquid to drain out before discarding the grains 3. Place the strained liquid onto the stovetop, bring to the boil then add 12.5g of each of the Nelson Sauvin and Enigma Hops and boil for 5 minutes 4. Take off flame and cool the liquid by placing the pot in a bath of cold water for about 15mins with the lid on 5. Add all the fermentable ingredients and the cooled liquid to your fermenter then stir to dissolve. Don’t worry if lumps of Light Dry Malt Extract remain as they will dissolve over the course of several hours 6. Top up with cold water to 20 litres and stir thoroughly with your sanitised brewing spoon 7. Check the temperature and top up to 22 litres with warm or cool water (refrigerated if necessary) to start the brew at 18°C 8. Sprinkle both the Safale S-23 and brew can yeast then fit the lid 9. Place your fermenter in a location out of direct sunlight and ferment at 15°C. Fermentation should take around 10-14 days 10. At day 7, add the remaining hop pellets to the brew by wrapping them in a hop bag (or a mesh cleaning cloth pulled straight from the pack if you don’t have one) and place directly on top of the brew then re-fit the lid

PART 2 BREWING EQUIPMENT – CHANGE YOUR THINKING

see page 46

INCLUDING

11. On day 10 check the specific gravity. The brew is ready once the specific gravity has stabilised over a couple of days and is between 1.006-1.010 12. Allow your beer to bottle conditions for at least 2 weeks, but it will benefit from at least 8 weeks

Hoptoberfest Hazy German IPA WE HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO HAVE ANDREW CHILDS CONTRIBUTING RECIPES FROM HIS BEHEMOTH /CHUR BREWING RANGE FOR SOME TIME. THIS HAZY GERMAN IPA IS ANOTHER MOUTH-WATERING RECIPE TO FIT ANY SEASON. ENJOY!

W

e have brewed a few Hazy IPA’s this year. We love brewing them and I love drinking them. This one is a lot different from the others as it uses a couple of new German hop varieties.

Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.067 FG: 1.019 ABV: 6.3% IBU: 33 Volume: 23 litres

Ingredients 4.65kg Weyermann Pale Malt 650g Weyermann Pale Wheat 600g Rolled Oats 150g Weyermann Munich 2 200g Hallertau Blanc 125g Mandarina Bavaria Wyeast 1318 London Ale III

METHOD 1. Break the smack pack and allow it to expand 2. Mash all malts at 69°C 3. Sparge and bring to a boil

PART 2 BREWING EQUIPMENT – CHANGE YOUR THINKING

They are fruity and herbal. If this sounds a bit out there, go

4. Boil for 90 minutes

ahead and substitute a couple of US, Aussie or NZ varieties to

5. At the end of the boil add 100g Hallertau Blanc and 75g Mandarina Bavaria and whirlpool for 15 minutes

this recipe (you can then make up your own name).

Now there is a bit of science to this haze craze but the main thing is using wheat and

oats, not fining or filtering, playing with water chemistry (go light on the gypsum), only use hops in the whirlpool and dry hop once during ferment and once after. It uses a lot of hops but only gets a little bit of bitterness. Which makes them juicy AF! This beer is nothing like a usual Oktoberfest beer but bugger it, I liked the name. Hopfen und malz, gott erhalt’s (Hops and malts God bless them).

6. Cool to 20°C and add yeast 7. Ferment at 18°C 8. 80% through fermentation add 50g Hallertau Blanc and 25g Mandarina Bavaria 9. Do a diacetyl rest at 22°C towards end of fermentation

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10. After Fermentation add 50g Hallertau Blanc and 25g Mandarina Bavaria

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11. Bottle or keg as usual then enjoy with mates!

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A shout out to the very best in Australian brewing

A shout out to the very best in Australian brewing

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CHARLIE BAMFORTH

THE POPE OF BREWING COMES TO TOWN

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