Beer & Brewer Summer 2022-2023 teaser

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What a year in beer it’s been and what a final magazine we’ve got for you to send it on its way. Our annual awards are back to mark success and service in the industry and while there are always many, many deserving of being singled out, it would be hard for anyone to argue against the ones (page 20) chosen by our judging panel and the public at large via our online voting poll this year. All the victors very much attest to what is great about the industry and some are absolute illustrations of what worked in what was another challenging year across the board.

Our overarching beer theme this issue is on the style that will no doubt claim plenty of shelf space and headlines again this Summer with 29 pages dedicated to hazy beers –where our HomeBrewer editor Jake Brandish looks back to the original beers (page 58) that befit the category, Jono Outred eyes the future (page 6) with some of the people behind some of Australia’s best modern IPAs plus we dish up recipes, reviews and plenty more.

While that style might be maintaining its hold on both a brewery’s output and a drinker’s input, the public is undoubtedly falling back in love with lagers again, with many tipping this Summer to be the season when the style reclaims much of its notoriety that had been lost in the haze. So, in a celebration of the many wonderful incarnations of lager, our resident pro brewer Steve Brockman deep dives (page 32) into the category so you can brew them better.

Jakkii Musgrave joins our team of writers this issue to chart the explosion of craft beer in her home state and look at how, in a very short space of time, Queensland has gone from nearly zero to an absolute hero of the country’s industry (page 38) with award-winning and diverse breweries littered throughout the region.

Cheers, Gifford Lee

Editor, Beer

D&D Mailing, Are

Direct

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EDITOR’S

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WRITTEN AND COMPILED BY GIFFORD LEE

It’s a pleasure to be back recognising and acknowledging achievement in the Australian beer and brewing industry after what has been another challenging year but also one full of lots to be cheerful about too. The lingering effects of COVID, coupled with rising prices, floodwaters and ensuing stress levels have all impacted the industry heavily, but time and again the Australian beer world has stood up and continues to raise its own high standards – as all the winners in the following pages attest to.

This year, as well as from our panel of judges, votes were also taken from the general public across all the categories and we were inundated with nominations from all corners of the country. Whilst there can only be one winner, what we can say, after such a massive reaction to our public voting poll, is that there are beer and brewing champions to be found everywhere. We raise our glass to each and everyone of them for making this such a rich and rewarding community and one that is truly world class.

We’ve done some streamlining and some combining in our awards this year, so I hope you don’t mind. Normally our Beer Venue and Brewpub of the year awards get announced at the start of Winter but we decided, due to the lingering effects of the pandemic on the hospitality industry, to hold them off until establishments had a longer, less encumbered period in which to show off their credentials. So, the two beer venue categories have joined our end of year awards and this will be where they remain for the foreseeable. And we’ve also cut a few awards, with the Homebrew Shop, Online Retailer, Bottleshop and Brewery Experience of the year awards taking a breather for now.

Andy

NEW YEAST

The Judging Panel SafBrew™ BR-8

Nick

Briony

Chris

Grace

Jake

Jakkii

Tiffany

THE FIRST DRY BRETT DESIGNED FOR SECONDARY FERMENTATION IN BOTTLES AND CASKS

Jessie

Tina

Tom

SafBrew™ BR-8 is the first Brettanomyces yeast available to brewers in a dry microgranular format. It offers all the flavor benefits of “wild” Brett yeast, but with more control and reliability, eliminating the risk of overcarbonation and gushing after bottling. Selected specifically for secondary fermentation in bottles or casks, SafBrew™ BR-8 produces phenolic compounds that create a distinctive finishing touch which evolves over time as the beer is aged, with funkier notes (barnyard, horse, leather…) nicely balanced by refreshing, fruity notes.

Adam Carswell Hotel proprietor & writer

Scade President, WA Brewers Association & head brewer, Bevy Brewing

Liebich Sensory analyst, Flavour Logic

Kelly Founder & general manager, East Coast Canning

Irwin Marketing manager, Hop Products Australia

Brandish Editor, HomeBrewer

Musgrave Writer, @slybeer

Jungalwalla Founder, Craft Instinct

Jono Outred Writer, Making Gravy Media

Justin Fox Bespoke Brewing Solutions

Kirrily Waldhorn The Beer Diva

Kylie Lethbridge CEO, Independent Brewers Association

Michael Capaldo National sales manager, Hop Products Australia

Becker Australian manager, Konvoy

Phil Meddings Joint CEO, Bintani

Richard Adamson Chair, Independent Brewers Association

Steph Howard National sales manager, Cryer Malt

Steve Hopkins General manager ANZ, Kegstar

Waldron President, Pink Boots Society Australia

Panoutsos Beer Knowledge & Education, CUB

Pigott Co-host, Pixels & Pints podcast

David Cryer

With David Cryer retiring this year after 30 years of monumental service to and support of the industry, it’s fitting that we can bookend his 2022 by bestowing our Lifetime Achievement Award on him – the title he was also presented with at last year’s Independent Beer Awards. To encompass all that he has achieved and who and what he has supported over his seemingly inexhaustible career as the founder of brewing ingredients supplier Cryer Malt could never be done in the space here provided. But to try to summarise, he’s not only supplied high quality ingredients to the Australasian craft beer industry – from its very early days until recently – he’s sponsored pretty much everything the industry could organise, helped get fledgling associations off the ground, owned and run a pioneering beer festival, mentored many, including the likes of Tom Madams and Steph Howard (pictured with David on page 23), and given so much of himself to so many throughout it all simply, as he put it, “for the good of the industry”.

Needless to say, when a mighty figure like this chooses to step away, finally, it leaves a sizable hole that could never be filled, and that’s only partly due to his towering sixfoot five stature. When we spoke to David to let him know about being bestowed this award, he admitted that there was a decent gap left in himself too. “You can’t leave 30 years behind that easily,” he said. But from where he spoke to us, “sitting on the balcony on (New Zealand’s) Waiheke Island, overlooking the Hauraki Gulf, there are some tangible benefits to (retirement)”, he added with a chuckle: “I’m just gathering

“From the get-go, when I first started meeting brewers, I just liked them. These were interesting people, making a really nice, interesting product and I just knew this was where I wanted to be.”

my thoughts, reflecting on it all really. I’ve also got quite a large collection of (comics), so it is an opportunity to get that together and figure out what I’m going to do with it all one day. (My family) have all made it pretty clear they don’t want (the collection) – it’s too big!”.

“In reflection I am just really pleased with (my career). Looking back to the early years and when I first came across someone like Richard Emerson who had until then only been able to source New Zealand malted barley – there was hardly any coloured malts at all. When I brought in that first container (from overseas) just seeing the delight on his face and others at being able to try Maris Otter and various other ingredients that they hadn’t been able to get hold of and then tasting the resulting beers – I loved that process and I tried to do that all the way through. I think Cryer Malt is still doing that: trying to stay at the forefront and get the latest ingredients that the rest of the world tries but putting our own twist on things. There is a great deal of satisfaction from those sorts of things. There’s a great deal of satisfaction from just being involved in the industry, being able to put something back.”

Coming to the beer and brewing world in the 1990s after over a decade working in New Zealand’s wool industry, David would find a community of kindred spirits who, he said, were the reasons why he grew to care about their world so deeply and in turn become such an integral part of its fabric.

“From the get-go, when I first started meeting brewers, I just liked them. These were interesting people, making a really nice, interesting product and I just knew this was where I wanted to be.

“I understood what they were trying to do and I knew (bolstering and supporting the industry broadly) would be something they’d like see happen. Obviously, it would be good for my business too so there was no hardship you could say in me putting my shoulder to the wheel. We had that nice common interest and I really enjoyed working with them. Brewers are unique. They’re a certain type and I found them endlessly interesting as highly creative, intriguing people. It obviously helped that I love beer and I enjoyed having a beer with them too!”

What he said he misses the most is the early days, when the craft beer landscape and celebration of it was pretty thin on the ground.

“You could just see the need for a more structured approach, so getting something like (pioneering festival) Beervana really going – that was a lot of fun. And then moving to Australia and working with the likes of Chuck (Hahn) and Brad (Rogers) and helping get the Australian (Craft Brewers Industry) Association (CBIA, now the IBA) off the ground – that was great. I really enjoyed it. And that’s what I’ll always miss the most.

“And that is one regret too,” David admitted, “as seeing Chuck’s name on this list (of who has received this award in the past), really makes me regret that more wasn’t done, because he was there right from the get-go in getting the CBIA up and running. I would like that type of relationship to come back. Competition among (beer producers) is one thing, but the real competition comes from outside in terms of all the other products people can buy, whether they are other alcoholic products or not.

“We need to see more promotion of beer for the sake of beer. I’ve always felt very strongly that beer is a healthier product (than other alcoholic beverages) when it’s brewed naturally. I think we don’t make enough of it. I think beer producers could do a better job of just promoting beer together. So I would like to see the coming together, somewhere, somehow between big beer and small.

“It is very difficult to bridge that gap,

but big brewers and small brewers are very similar when it all comes down to it – they all love beer and love getting together and learning from each other. There is much more in common than what separates them and I really feel strongly that category promotion of beer is something that should be done together.”

Even in retirement he’s still got the industry’s best intentions at heart and that is the mark of the man. Congratulations David on your stellar career from us here at Beer & Brewer.

WHAT THE JUDGES SAID:

“David’s contribution to the Australasian beer industry has been nothing short of supportive, generous and magnanimous. He’s been an integral part of building and shaping the craft beer industry, always forthcoming with sharing his knowledge, experience and passion as well as mentoring and advising the next generation in fulfilling their dreams.”

“His retirement party showed the breadth of the brewing community that he had an influence on in his career.”

PREVIOUS WINNERS:

2017 CHUCK HAHN, 2018 BRAD ROGERS, 2019 BRENDAN VARIS, 2020 PETE MEDDINGS, 2021 JAYNE LEWIS

BREWED IN THE SUN

ACROSS A VAST LAND, QUEENSLANDERS ARE EMBRACING CRAFT BEER LIKE NEVER BEFORE. JAKKII MUSGRAVE CHATS WITH SOME OF THE STATE’S SUCCESS STORIES TO FIND OUT WHAT’S DRIVING THE GROWTH.

“Mr XXXX” gives Brisbane a wink and a cheers as he holds his glass aloft from the side of the XXXX Brewery, presiding over the inner-city suburb of Milton. It’s a familiar sight, as representatively Brisbane as the “brown snake” of a river that runs through it, and a brand as “Queenslander” as Billy Moore in his Origin jersey.

For years, that was the image of beer in Queensland, and while the “Milton Mango” and “pots of Gold” are still being consumed all over the state, along with other beers of its ilk, today the craft beer scene is booming, offering consumers a wide array of choices in beer and local, independent businesses to support.

Queensland was a comparative slow mover in craft beer, hampered by a lack of shelfspace for independent breweries in a state where licensing requiring a full hotel license and a pub “nearby” to run a bottle shop resulted in very few independent bottle shops and a great many pubs owned by the big supermarkets. It’s a complicated system that, just a few years ago, saw Coles offload their hotels in a complex deal with Australian Venue Co that allowed them to form a joint venture in order to continue operating their bottle shops in the state. Pair that with consumers who were steeped in the tradition of what their families drank and who certainly weren’t asking for new beers, and you’ve got a dial that’s hard to shift.

PUTTING THE HAZE IN HAZIES

OUR RESIDENT HOME

BREW GURU JOHN PALMER HELPS YOU SEE THROUGH THE HAZE.

Everyone is in love with haze these days but I remember when it was to be avoided and many papers were presented by esteemed brewing scientists, such as Karl Siebert, that helped us understand what beer haze was, and how to prevent it. And now we are inviting it to the table. Well, well, well, how turns have timed…

WHAT IS HAZE?

Beer haze is a protein-polyphenol complex that forms via hydrogen and hydrophobic bonding, which are weaker forms of molecular bonding between less-polar substances. There are two types of beer haze: chill haze (temporary) and colloidal haze (permanent). Chill haze is primarily hydrophobic bonding, whereas colloidal haze is primarily hydrogen bonding. Covalent bonding, a stronger bond, is also said to play a role in permanent haze, but I don’t know the extent – it’s probably small but significant, like approximately 10 per cent. Anyway, the haze is formed from malt proteins, malt polyphenols and hop polyphenols. (Polyphenols are basically small, immature tannins.)

The haze forms when the polyphenols form molecular bridges between the small proteins. The type and molecular size of the protein determines whether it is haze active. Haze active proteins come from the hordein in barley and gliadin in wheat and they are rich in the amino acid proline, which is the bonding site for the polyphenols.

I guess I should explain that a “protein” is a polymeric mass of hundreds of amino acids and peptides and that these haze-active proteins are generally small enough to be beer soluble. It’s when lots of them link up with lots of polyphenol bridging molecules that they get large enough to be visible as haze. Eventually these polymeric haze blobs get big enough that they become permanent haze and then as the beer ages, and oxidation staling reactions occur, these hazes cross-link into tannins, which eventually become large enough to be subject to gravity and they settle out.

PROMOTING STABILITY

In fact, there is a bell-curve or size distribution

effect of the size of proteins that can best form a stable haze. If the proteins are too small, they will still bond with polyphenols but are still too small to create visible haze. Relatively mid-size proteins are the right size to create a visible haze and larger proteins readily form haze but are much more likely to polymerise with other haze particles and settle out, which is the common fate of most hazy IPAs after a month or two.

So, the secret to a stable haze in hazy IPA is having more of the smaller haze-active proteins in the wort/beer, because they have a longer haze “life” than the larger haze-active proteins. Thus, the question becomes how do we promote more of these smaller haze active proteins?

Here is where we enlist the help of higher protein adjuncts, such as flaked wheat and flaked oats. Interestingly, oats have higher protein levels than wheat (typically 16% v 13%), but wheat has a much higher level of the proline rich proteins (80% v 10%). Therefore, if you are in search of stable haze, wheat is better than oats.

Secondly, a paper by Delvaux, Combes, and Delvaux (MBAA TQ 41 (1), 2004) demonstrated in trials that malted wheat produced a more stable haze than unmalted wheat and also demonstrated that the modification level (ie. Kolbach Index) of both the barley and wheat malts affected both the degree and stability of the haze. Essentially, more modification (eg. KI of 45 v 40%) results in more of the smaller haze active proteins and a more stable haze. Less modification (~40%) may result in larger peptides and deeper haze initially but drops out sooner.

The important point here is not the specific KI numbers, but the concept. Every batch of malt and subsequent mash is going to be slightly different despite having similar KI numbers to this example.

I want you to understand the tradeoffs: unmalted wheat and oats will give higher initial haze, but it will drop out quicker. Malted wheat is going to create less haze but it will be a longer lasting haze. These concepts are born out by my friends at El Segundo Brewing in El Segundo, California where their best results, they say, come from using 50 per cent of the base malt as malted wheat, and adding five to 10 per cent of flaked wheat. This gives them a better spectrum of protein sizes they feel, and a more stable beer in package.

Pale ale malt

Wheat malt

Flaked Wheat

Flaked Oats

Rice hulls

Galaxy hop pellets

Belma hop pellets

Riwaka hop pellets Mangrove Jacks M66 Ale yeast

water profile Ca 75-125, Mg 10-20, Total Alk 0, SO4 150-250, Cl 100-150, RA –100-0

1. Mash in to hit 65°C for 60 minutes. 2. Sparge and transfer to kettle with 23 litres of wort at 1.052. 3. Bring to the boil for 60 minutes. 4. Flame out and add 75g Galaxy, 75g Belma and 70g Riwaka to steep for 20 minutes. 5. Cool wort to 18 °C and run into fermenter. 6. Oxygenate or aerate and pitch yeast and maintain 18°C during fermentation. 7. On day 3 or 4, dry hop with 75g Galaxy, 75g Belma, and 70g Riwaka. 8. When FG stabilises, keg or bottle as usual.

The Brew Review

An Australian Summer full of lagers might be what the experts are predicting but this issue’s tasting review section is literally overflowing as the “haze craze” maintains its popularity amongst craft breweries and their customers. With hazy IPAs and hazy pales making up this issue’s “Seasonal focus”, we’ve not surprisingly outdone ourselves and got through the most tastings in over 15 years. Thankfully, our palates got a break from the hop onslaught at times too and we also looked at a range of other styles, from the European classics to the boundary blurrers. If you’re a brewery not receiving our invite email to partake in our tastings but would like to, reach out at info@beerandbrewer.com

Not all submissions to our tasting panel are featured in the following pages. This could be because of space restrictions, that we already reviewed it in the recent past or

information on in the interest of transparency.

The Panel

Jono Outred, WA

Based in Margaret River, Jono is a beer writer that predominantly covers the South West of WA. He’s been involved in the state’s beer industry in various capacities since 2011.

David Ward, ACT

Head of sales for BentSpoke Brewing Co and with over 10 years’ experience working in the craft beer industry, David is constantly on the lookout for new beers to try and trends to watch.

Tina Panoutsos, VIC

One of Australia’s leading beer judges, Tina is a beer sensory expert with over 30 years’ experience in the brewing industry in roles across technical and commercial functions.

Tiffany Waldron, VIC

A Certified Cicerone®, National Beer Brands Manager for Beer Fans and Pink Boots Australia President, Tiffany is focused on making changes in the world of beer through education and furthering beer culture beyond standard boundaries.

Justin Fox, VIC

Justin is the Australian agent for Bespoke Brewing Solutions. He has a decade’s judging experience, expertise in brewing ingredient distribution and has held technical roles with breweries of all sizes throughout his 15 years in beer.

Tom Pigott, NSW

The bar manager at Sydney’s Batch Brewing who used to run Uncle Hops in Newtown, Tom is also one of the hosts for the Pixels & Pints Podcast.

Scott Hargrave, NSW/QLD

Scott is Balter Brewing’s multi-award winning head brewer and a regular on some of Australia’s and the world’s most prestigious judging panels including the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup

Josh Quantrill, NSW

Currently Beerfarm’s head of sales, Josh is a Certified Cicerone® who’s had a long and varied beer career. He strives to help grow and expand the footprint of Australian craft beer.

Ian Kingham, NSW

That Beer Bloke, Ian’s decorated beer career has included judging at Australia’s best competitions while he’s currently the Sydney Royal’s Chair of Judges.

Michael Capaldo, NSW

National sales manager at Hop Products Australia, Michael is a qualified and experienced brewer and an accomplished beer judge (GABS, World Beer Cup, Indies, AIBA etc).

Jamie Webb-Smith, NSW

Previously a brewer at The Australian Brewery, Jamie is currently head brewer at Yulli’s Brews in Sydney. He’s a home brewer turned pro, who completed the NSW TAFE micro-brewing course.

Benji Bowman, NSW

With six years of industry experience in Australian craft beer and cider, Benji is now the state sales manager at Local Drinks Collective, working to increase the footprint and awareness of independent liquor in Australia.

Jake Brandish, WA

Beer & Brewer’s HomeBrewer

Editor, Jake has a post-grad Dip in Brewing, is a BJCP judge, has brewed commercially and is an all round beer geek.

Briony Liebich, SA

A Certified Cicerone® focussed on helping people boost their tasting skills, Briony led the sensory program at West End Brewery for 10 years and judges at national beer and cider awards.

@flavourlogic

not

our panel’s requirements. We’re not in the business of running any one down, and if there is a chance to speak with a

Adam Carswell, VIC

Based in Bendigo, Adam’s been the proprietor of the award-winning Cambrian Hotel for almost a decade. He’s a passionate advocate of independent beer and traditional pub culture.

Mark Dowell, ACT

A beer broker for BentSpoke with a background in liquor retail, Mark is always trying new beers while appreciating the classics that bought us here

Craig Butcher, SA

Based in the Barossa Valley, Craig has 20-plus years’ experience in the liquor industry including winery cellarhand, tastings and sales, newbie homebrewer and beer-mad bottleshop guy.

Alice Lynch, WA

A Perth-based sales rep for Beerfarm, Alice’s start in the craft beer world came by slinging pints at Two Birds in Melbourne. She’s here to force an end to random men being shocked that women love beer.

Neal Cameron, NSW

A champion of the industry, Neal, amongst many achievements, has built 20 breweries nationally with brewery supplier Brewtique plus was chief judge at the Sydney Royal Beer and Cider Show.

Liam Pereira, NSW

Liam is the group venue manager for Sydney’s Batch Brewing Co. A Certified Cicerone® and BJCP judge, he was previously general manager of Sydney Beer Week.

the product did

meet

brewery about issues that may have arisen during a tasting, then we will endeavour to pass that

Panel’s Top Picks

SEAS ONAL

FOCUS

Rocky Ridge Brewn Bad Angles

ABV: 6.0% ABV

Style: Hazy IPA

Idaho 7 and a triumvirate of Kiwi hops – Motueka, Rakau and Nelson Sauvin – load up this hazy IPA that offers peak drinkability thanks to gentle bitterness and a touch of sweetness. A creamy mouthfeel is topped with grassy notes and gentle aromatics of marmalade and overripe citrus. The ABV adds a touch of bite.

Glass: IPA

Food: Lemon cheesecake rockyridgebrewing.com.au

SEAS ONAL FOCUS

SEAS ONAL FOCUS

SEAS ONAL FOCUS

Slow Lane Brewing

Same But Different

ABV: 7.0%

Style: Hazy IPA

A terrific example of a modern hazy. Pouring burnt orange with a thick haze and lasting foam, ripe mangoes and peaches hit the nose then herbal aromas of pineapple, sage and coriander appear as the beer opens up.

Texturally, it’s a pillowy mouthful with full-flavoured ripe tropical fruits and a really appealing herbal spice towards the end. A crushable hazy with plenty going on.

Glass: IPA

Food: Vietnamese salad slowlanebrewing.com.au

Gweilo Beer Strata Juice

ABV: 10%

Style: TIPA

Pours a hazy golden with medium tight white head. The aroma is zesty passionfruit with strong fresh tropical fruits while the first grainy, fruity, hoppy sip is amazing. The malt profile (which is still very apparent given all that’s going on elsewhere) is perfectly crafted with the fruit addition and hop presence. A big boozy IPA, this is really decadent, but it does hide its ABV very well. Treat with caution on a hot Summer’s day! We loved this beer and one of Gweilo’s best.

Glass: IPA

Food: Fish & chips gweilobeer.com.au

Black Hops Brewing East Coast Haze

ABV: 4.5%

Style: Hazy Pale Ale

This is a beer to make people smile. Super pungent hop character, mainly from Mosaic perhaps, with a great complex flavour expression that keeps you sniffing for a while before diving into a clean, wellattenuated but smooth malt palate. With tropical fruit up the wazoo, a zingy acidity cleans the palate just in time for another happy mouthful. More please.

Glass: Schooner

Food: Ham & cheese toastie blackhops.com.au