PLUS! BREWING SUSTAINABLY | WIN EPIC PRIZES | 4 DIY RECIPES MASTER THE MID-STRENGTH! PRO BREWING TIPS FOR LOW ALC BEERS WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM INCLUDING ISSUE 62 SPRING 2022 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95) ALPHAPALECRAFT REVIEWEDBEERS 137 BREWER JAYNE LEWIS ON THE AUSSIE PALE’S ENDURING POPULARITY THEKNOWSNOSE TASTING SECRETS FORWARDHOPPING THEOFFUTUREHOPS
CONTENTS inside... Spring 2022 FEATURES 8 Not paling in comparison The Aussie pale ale clings on as rivals approach 28 Hopping forward Pushing beer’s boundaries with advanced hop products 36 Treading softly Breweries taking action on sustainability REGULARS 18 Style shoot Pale ales 20 Senses Working Overtime Sensory analyst Briony Liebich nose dives into our sense of smell 24 The Deep Dive Brewer Steve Brockman’s tips for mastering the mid-strength 58 The Brew Review 137 craft releases with a focus on Aussie pales HOMEBREWER 46 Editor’s letters 48 Q&A with John Palmer Sparkling ale 50 Jake’s Brew Log Pacific ale 52 Seasonal focus Australian pale ale 55 Show us Yours Reader’s home brewing set-ups 57 Recipe A classic Aussie pale ale “Our gas and electricity bills are one-tenth of what a similar sized brewery here in town is,” Scott Shomer, Helios Brewing 36 4 www.beerandbrewer.com
this publication do
publication. Copyright © 2022 - Food and Beverage Media Spring 2022 3
publication
PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.
All express
Beer & Brewer gifford@beerandbrewer.com@beerandbrewer WE GetRESPONSIBLEENCOURAGEDRINKINGthefactsDrinkWise.org.au PUBLISHED BY Food and Beverage Media 41 Bridge Road GLEBE NSW Australia 2037 Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 PUBLISHER Paul Wootton | pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Gifford Lee | gifford@beerandbrewer.com HOMEBREWER EDITOR Jake Brandish | jake@beerandbrewer.com EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Briony Liebich, Jono Outred, Steve Brockman, Adam Carswell NATIONAL SALES MANAGERS Joanne Davies – jdavies@intermedia.com.au Lachlan Oakley – loakley@intermedia.com.au GENERAL MANAGER SALES – LIQUOR & HOSPITALITY GROUP Shane T. Williams GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn | kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper | jacqui@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS Tel: 1800 651 422 | Fax: +61 2 8580 6312 subscribe@beerandbrewer.com | www.shop.beerandbrewer.com Mail: PO Box 55 Glebe NSW 2037 SUBSCRIPTION RATE Australia $79.95 3 years (12 issues) savings $39.41 (33%) $54.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $24.61 (31%) $29.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $9.81 (25%) New Zealand $88.99 3 years (12 issues) saving $30.41 (25%) $60.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $18.61 (23%) $32.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $6.81 (17%) International $132.99 3 years (12 issues) $89.99 2 years (8 issues) $47.99 1 year (4 issues) Rate in AUD and incl. 10% GST for Australia, excluding GST for NZ and International PRINTING IVE, Sydney DISTRIBUTION D&D Mailing, Are Direct (Aus), Gordon & Gotch (NZ), ISSN 1834 5115 DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views
Find us on...
Keeping with the season, we’re welcoming a return to lighter drinking styles this issue by looking at the enduring popularity of the Australian-style pale ale that continues to sell volume, and attract new palates, despite the heavy onslaught by more de rigueur beers. In our feature from page 8, brewers Jayne Lewis, Paul Holgate, Ryan Nobbs and Pat Keeble all discuss the style’s place in our beer culture and how it has been shaped, and in turn evolved, to remain meaningful and a benchmark beer for many a brewery.
And somewhat continuing that theme on the pale ale’s evolution, brewer Steve Brockman deep dives (page 24) into mastering the mid-strength. The circa 3.5% beer, especially in the pale ale category, has become a giant segment of the industry here in Australia as many craft breweries nail the category – offering fullness and flavour when before there was not much of either. Thanks to Steve’s tips, you can have a decent crack at making a good one for yourself.
Briony Liebich also charges you with good-to-have skills as she nose dives into our sense of smell (page 20) and how it is vital to the overall sensory experience of beer. Briony is also part of our tasting panel this issue (page 58) as we make our way through 137 craft beer releases – a record number of reviews in our 15-plus year history.
GiffordCheers, Lee Editor, expressed in not necessarily represent the opinion of the its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. or in relation to expressly conditions which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. best endeavours create, to the extent permitted by law, excludes all liability for resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this
The Intermedia Group’s Environmental Responsibility
LETTEREDITOR’S
So in the coming months of Spring, beer lovers can get out and about and attend a multitude of events as the likes of the Australian National Homebrewing Conference (see main story page 56) and Oktoberfest celebrations nationwide all re-emerge from long COVID hibernations. Hats off to the people behind such events, for ploughing on and providing some much-needed normality back into all our lives, and here’s hoping plenty of you can get out and repay the favour.
The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities.
Publisher,
the Publisher, its publications and its services are
This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody.
If the return of warmer weather wasn’t reason enough for celebration, we are, for the first time in a year and half, actually running a What’s On page this Spring as we’re confident the days of last minute, heart-breaking beer event cancellations are behind us. And while that by no means indicates the shit show that has transpired in the intervening time is over, it is reflective of the human capacity for resilience and the desire to just get out and make the most of this one life we lead.
While we use our
You’ll find plenty more besides all that and I hope you enjoy reading it. See you again in Summer.
to ensure accuracy of the materials we
the Publisher
As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers.
excluded save for those
implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations
and warranties
loss
AUSSIE PALE NotALES paling comparisonin THE MODERN AUSTRALIAN PALE ALE HAS BEEN SHAPED BY DECADES OF INNOVATION AND CULTURE, BOTH ON A COMMERCIAL AND CRAFT SCALE. FROM CULT-LIKE INTERPRETATIONS, THAT HAVE WELL AND TRULY STOOD THE TEST OF TIME, TO THE FRESHEST OF ITERATIONS BOASTING IN VOGUE “JUICY” OR “HAZY” CHARACTERISTICS, THE HUMBLE PALE ALE HAS NOT ONLY EVOLVED BUT HAS HELPED SHAPE WHAT ALL MODERN AUSTRALIAN BEERS LOOK LIKE. BY JONO OUTRED 8 www.beerandbrewer.com
he Australian pale ale has become somewhat iconic throughout its history. From some of the original Australian craft breweries of the late 80s and early 90s, the uncomplicated Aussie pale has been a catalyst in many ways. From beer styles and pale ale derivatives, through to the brewers and breweries who brewed them, this once simple style has had immeasurable influence on the current Australian beer landscape and identity. Today, you would be hard-pressed to find a brewer in Australia who hasn’t brewed or isn’t at least familiar with the style. Although there are perhaps fewer pale ales today in lieu of haze bombs, fruited sours and the like, many modern styles have their roots in pale ale, not least the obvious sub-styles like the popular XPA and hazy pale ale.
T
AUSSIE PALE ALES
The Australian pale ale has without a doubt stood the test of time and has moved with the ebbs and flows of the craft beer industry. But with modern interpretations and sub-styles emerging, and subsequently sustaining its popularity, it seems the humble Aussie pale has plenty more strings to its bow as we move into the future.
Spring 2022 9
SENSES WORKING knowsTheOVERTIMEnosebest SENSORY ANALYST BRIONY LIEBICH NOSE DIVES INTO OUR SENSE OF SMELL AND HOW IT IS VITAL TO OPTIMISING A BEER TASTING EXPERIENCE. 20 www.beerandbrewer.com
One problem with the olfactory system is that odours are airborne and volatile, a word derived from the Latin verb volare, meaning “to fly”. These molecular compounds in flight can be tricky to catch which is why there are different smelling techniques at our disposal (see table). Once you’ve poured beer into a glass, it’s important to start with a few short sniffs before you consider the appearance as aromas are so fleeting. Never underestimate the role your nose plays in beer tasting. Besides smell informing most of what you perceive as flavour, you can build your expectations of quality and enjoyment which enriches the whole tasting experience. Is the beer fresh? Are the aromas attractive? Are they jumping out of the glass or a bit muted? Remember, the colder the beer, there will be less noticeable aromas to detect.
SENSES WORKING OVERTIME W e perceive the world through our eyes, ears, skin, nose and mouth. These sensory organs continuously feed information via our nerve cells into our brain, we then act based on our interpretation. Sensory communication can be physical (touch, sound, temperature), or chemically detected from smell or taste. There is far less investigation on smell compared with vision and hearing, as smell was widely believed to be an inferior and underdeveloped sense. This false belief traces back to 19th Century neuroscientists who noted that the human olfactory bulb is smaller than other mammals like dogs that rely heavily on smell, making our sniffing skills far less acute. Although this is the case, our human brains make the most of what we have. Our olfactory bulb has a similar number of sensory neurons to other mammals, and we use scents to manage much of our behaviour and emotional responses.
SMELL IS THE KEY We sense smells wafting from a glass when we breathe in, and flavours in the mouth when we breathe out. For that reason, the terms aroma and flavour are interchangeable. I demonstrate this in my workshops by asking people to pinch their noses when eating a jellybean. Instead of noticing the flavour, all you can taste is sweet. Try it next time you sip a beer. You should only notice basic tastes like bitter and mouthfeel sensations like cold or fizzy carbonation. When you unpinch your nose, there are chemical sensations at play to help you determine flavour.
The evolutionary role of smell is to give us detailed information about what’s around us or about to be swallowed. Will it be spoiled or harmful or be pleasant and refreshing?
SMELL TRIGGERS MEMORY
Spring 2022 21
WHY IS IT IMPORTANT TO SMELL BEER FIRST?
Odour molecules and receptors take a direct path to the brain’s limbic system – the region related to emotion and memory – unlike other senses like taste. That’s why smell can trigger memories of your childhood or have associations with people you know. What we smell and how we react is a continuous process that develops our sensory memory. It is not easy to recognise and identify smells immediately, but when you can pinpoint them, they will stay with you. The more you consciously use your nose in everyday life, the stronger it gets. By smelling and tasting a variety of foods and beer styles, you are improving your memory recall and tasting ability.
Flavour is a combination of what you smell via the nose (orthonasal) and through the back of the mouth (retronasal). These two smelling pathways to receptors in the olfactory bulb can lead to discrepancies in specific smells compared with those you get in your mouth as flavour perceptions after sipping a beer.
BEER TASTING IS A MULTI-SENSORY EXPERIENCE Try to describe the flavours of that fabulous pale ale you had on the weekend and you’re likely to only recall if you liked it or not. Aromas are especially tricky to find words for, but why is that? Odours are almost never perceived as isolated compounds, but in a mixture. Beer is a complex product made from four seemingly basic ingredients: water, malt, hops and yeast. Each ingredient contributes its own aromas with lots of background noise, not to mention the possibility of additional ingredients. To sharpen your sensory skills, become a sensory detective noticing what you smell and taste and how it can change during a tasting. Ask yourself what specific aromas can I smell? How could they get in the glass?
THE FUTURE OF HOPS 28 www.beerandbrewer.com
The use of hops within beer across the globe is prolific, with supply sometimes even struggling to meet demand, while consumers crave the latest in vogue varieties. As is the case with any hot commodity, this demand has spurred on innovation and a modern evolution of the once humble hop flower. Thanks to ongoing demand and the way in which the modern beer industry functions, hops are at the heart of exploration within the wider craft sector. From packaging, processing, and logistics, down to the chemistry and biology of the flowers and plants themselves, hops have evolved considerably in recent years. This evolution is in part driven by the trends that dictate a need for more engrossing hop-forward beers, but also due to a demand for improvements in efficiencies and quality across all beer styles. In any case, hops play a vital role in the current realm of craft beer and given the rapid rate in which they’re evolving, they’re likely to continue being the centre of attention.
T he world of hoppy beers has never been cut and dry. Instead, these beers fall within a broad and diverse spectrum that encapsulate a multitude of styles that all have the one common and vital ingredient: the bitter, fragrant and lush green flowers of Humulus lupulus.
FORWARD
HOPS HAVE BEEN THE DOMINANT FACTOR IN THE CRAFT BEER WORLD OVER THE LAST DECADE AND CURRENTLY BREWERS ARE SPOILED FOR CHOICE WHEN IT COMES TO THE VARIETIES, AND THE TECHNIQUES TO HARNESS THEM, AT THEIR DISPOSAL. BUT INCREASINGLY SO THEY’RE ADDING ADVANCED PRODUCTS TO THEIR BREWING REGIMES TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES OF WHAT A HOP-FORWARD BEER CAN BE AND IN TURN ARE HELPING TO SHAPE THE FUTURE OF BEER. BY JONO OUTRED
THE OF HOPS
Spring 2022 29
FUTURE
The use of hops and hop-derived products today is not only a necessity, but responsible for much of the identity of modern craft beer and the diversity of contemporary styles.
BREWING SUSTAINABLY “You’ve got to put abovecommunityprofit,youjusthaveto,” Corinna PrancingSteeb,Pony 36 www.beerandbrewer.com
“It’s more expensive to be conscious about the environment. But the price that the future pays for us not doing it is much, much higher. You’ve got to put community above profit, you just have to.
STEP
TREADING Softly Spring 2022 37
“I have children and grandchildren and I want them to have a planet to live on,” said Corinna Steeb, the irrepressible co-founder and CEO of Prancing Pony Brewery in the Adelaide Hills.
“(They’re) definitely looking at companies to take the lead,” he said. “They want to see genuine change.
BREWING SUSTAINABLY
“To me, it’s not about having to big note yourselves about what you do. It has to become part of your business model and has to be there right from the start.”
“This idea that being independent and being small is enough of a story, I don’t think it is anymore. I think people’s expectations have gone beyond that.”
Brewing our national drink of choice has traditionally been a huge consumer of water and energy, as well as a significant producer of waste, with, formerly, no apologies given and none particularly asked for. But it’s also 100 per cent true that nowadays the passion many breweries hold for their product is just as much reflected in their concern for the environment, and they’re busting their bellies in a myriad of ways to reduce the overall mark they’re making on theForplanet.example, there’s a growing batch of beer brands designing and building breweries from the ground up with sustainability at the top of the agenda; those working with scientists to improve sustainability across industries; and many more making it easier for drinkers to recycle packaging materials.
On the other hand, Young Henrys’ co-founder and Independent Brewers Association chair Richard Adamson believes consumers have also become “very savvy” in making purchasing decisions, based on manufacturers that meet their “moral and ethical standpoints and maybe have a similar worldview”.
ADAM CARSWELL SPEAKS WITH A GROUP OF INDUSTRY-LEADING BREWERIES DETERMINED TO REDUCE THEIR CARBON FOOTPRINTS, ONE AT A TIME.
Lewis Maschmedt, SA Based in Port Adelaide, Lewis is head of brewing at Pirate Life. He’s been brewing beer in one form or another since 2011.
Alice Lynch, WA A Perth-based sales rep for Beerfarm, Alice’s start in the craft beer world came by slinging pints at Two Birds in Melbourne. She’s here to force an end to random men being shocked that women love beer. This is the largest tasting section in our 15-plus year history which has been in no small part aided by the enduring popularity of the pale ale – and more specifically, as they are our seasonal focus this issue, the Australian-style pale ale. From the pioneering through to very modern interpretations of the style, we take a close look at arguably the most Australian of all Australian beers while getting our way through a whopping 137 releases. As well as Aussie pales, you’ll find a very broad spectrum of styles in the following pages that again allow us to showcase all that is good and diverse in the local brewing landscape. If you’re a brewery not receiving our invite email to partake in our tastings but would like to, email us at info@beerandbrewer.com
Not all submissions to our tasting panel are featured in the following pages. This could be because of space restrictions, that we already reviewed it in the ecent past or the product did not meet our panel’s requirements. We’re not in the business of running any one down, and if there is a chance to speak with a brewery about issues that may have arisen during a tasting, then we will endeavour to pass that information on in the interest of transparency.
Jono Outred, WA Based in Margaret River, Jono is a beer writer that predominantly covers the South West of WA. He’s been involved in the state’s beer industry in various capacities since 2011.
Josh Quantrill, NSW Currently Beerfarm’s head of sales, Josh is a Certified Cicerone® who’s had a long and varied beer career. He strives to help grow and expand the footprint of Australian craft beer. Ian Kingham, NSW That Beer Bloke, Ian’s decorated beer career has included judging at Australia’s best competitions while he’s currently the Sydney Royal’s Chair of Judges. Michael Capaldo, NSW National sales manager at Hop Products Australia, Michael is a qualified and experienced brewer and an accomplished beer judge (GABS, World Beer Cup, Indies, AIBA etc).
Evan Belogiannis, NSW Evan has been brewing beer at Frenchies Bistro & Brewery for over two years. He’s on a never-ending quest to find and brew the crispiest, tastiest lagers. Tina Panoutsos, VIC One of Australia’s leading beer judges, Tina is a beer sensory expert with over 30 years’ experience in the brewing industry in roles across technical and commercial functions. Tiffany Waldron, VIC A Certified Cicerone® and Pink Boots President, Tiffany is focused on making changes in the world of beer through education and furthering beer culture beyond standard boundaries.
Jamie Webb-Smith, NSW Previously a brewer at The Australian Brewery, Jamie is currently head brewer at Yulli’s Brews in Sydney. He’s a home brewer turned pro, who completed the NSW TAFE micro-brewing course.
SEAS ONAL FO CUS What’s our Seasonal Focus? Australian-style Pale Ale 58 www.beerandbrewer.com
Briony Liebich, SA A Certified Cicerone® focussed on helping people boost their tasting skills, Briony led the sensory program at West End Brewery for 10 years and judges at national beer and cider awards.
Jake Brandish, WA Beer & Brewer’s HomeBrewer Editor, Jake has a post-grad Dip in Brewing, is a BJCP judge, has brewed commercially and is an all round beer geek.
ThePanelBrew Review
Rosemary Lilburne-Fini, NSW A Certified Cicerone® Beer Server, Rosemary has worked in the beer industry for the best part of five years and has now landed in hospitality marketing. Nothing excites her more than classic beer styles executed perfectly. @libationslady.
Scott Hargrave, NSW/QLD Scott is Balter Brewing’s multi-award winning head brewer and a regular on some of Australia’s and the world’s most prestigious judging panels including the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup
@flavourlogic Adam Carswell, VIC Based in Bendigo, Adam’s been the proprietor of the award-winning Cambrian Hotel for almost a decade. He’s a passionate advocate of independent beer and traditional pub culture. Briony Nicholls, SA Based in Port Adelaide, Briony is Quality Manager at Pirate Life. She has been a student of beer science since 2013. Mark Dowell, ACT A beer broker for BentSpoke with a background in liquor retail, Mark is always trying new beers while appreciating the classics that bought us here Craig Butcher, SA Based in the Barossa Valley, Craig has 20-plus years’ experience in the liquor industry including winery cellarhand, tastings and sales, newbie homebrewer and beer-mad bottleshop guy.
Justin Fox, VIC Justin is the Australian agent for Bespoke Brewing Solutions. He has a decade’s judging experience, expertise in brewing ingredient distribution and has held technical roles with breweries of all sizes throughout his 15 years in beer.
The
Tom Pigott, NSW The bar manager at Sydney’s Batch Brewing who used to run Uncle Hops in Newtown, Tom is also one of the hosts for the Pixels & Pints Podcast.
David Ward, ACT Head of sales for BentSpoke Brewing Co and with over 10 years’ experience working in the craft beer industry, David is constantly on the lookout for new beers to try and trends to watch.
Benji Bowman, NSW With a background in Australian craft beer and cider, Benji is now part of the sales team at Capital Brewing in NSW where he leads the beer and quality training for the sales team.
Bridge Road Brewers B2 Bomber Mach 12.0 ABV: 10.1% Style: Imperial Belgian Black IPA Bridge Road know how to celebrate a birthday in style, and for their 17th they really went all out. Mach 12.0 is like a layer cake of aroma and flavour that just keeps on giving – from the almost instant coconut hit thanks to the Cryo Sabro addition to those distinctively fruity Belgian yeast esters followed by the smooth chocolate and coffee notes before ending with the warming and slightly boozy dry finish that lingers on your palate without overwhelming it. Something to savour and probably best shared with beer-loving friends. Happy birthday to a stalwart of the local brewing scene. Glass: Goblet Food: Bitey cheese bridgeroadbrewers.com.au
King River Brewing King River Pale ABV: Style:5.4%Pale
Glass: Chalice Food: Sticky date pudding nowhereman.com.au
Stomping Ground Monk’s Tipple ABV: Style:8.5%Belgian
Tripel What a beer! Part of Stomping Ground’s Belgian classics-inspired 2022 Into the ‘Wood series of limited releases (all reviewed in this issue), it’s got licks of floral, lemon and clove aromas. Cloves linger and finish long with hints of banana bread and overripe mango. It’s moreish, delicious and complex as every sip brings something new, leaving you wanting more. Some would usually err on the side of caution with massive ABV Tripels, but this goes down uber easy. Better call an Uber! Glass: Tulip Food: Seared scallops stompingground.beer
TASTING SEAS ONAL FOCUS Panel’s Top Picks Spring 2022 59
Nowhereman Brewing Mr Otter’s Barley Wine ABV: Style:11.0%English Barley Wine Holy roasted figs and tobacco Batman, this is amazing! Wonderfully rich and complex, full-bodied and decadent, it is medium mahogany in colour with deep orange hues. The aroma is all stewed prunes, roasted figs and sweet rich malt while a first sip is a rewarding experience where a rich body boasts beautifully crafted flavours of tobacco, caramel and dark fudge with a lingering alcohol zing on the tongue, balanced out by earthy English hops. Enjoy on a cool evening in your best glassware and perhaps even with a cigar if you dare.
Glass: Pint Food: Capricciosa pizza kingriverbrewing.com.au
Ale With new school looks but drinking old school, this is like an old-style flasher wearing a new trench coat. A clear mid gold with just the slightest hint of haze beneath a dense white foam, aromas of mango and candied citrus are met with wisps of pine and melon with light bready malt. Light tropical flavours and citrus undertones are met by clean sprucey pine and a lick of resin as it discards its cloak to reveal its true self. A firm mouthfeel and no-nonsense bitterness are on the front foot while there’s great structure in the finish.
With a qualified team of in-house engineers and technicians, FB*PROPAK has the scope and depth to supply, customise and install your ideal brewing, packaging and distilling equipment. propak.com info@ propak.com +61 (3) 9487 1150
