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PLUS! MALT SENSORY | INGREDIENT FOCUS | 5 DIY RECIPES SAISON SEASON! PRO BREWING TIPS FOR SENSATIONAL SIPPERS WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM INCLUDING GLUTEN FREE BREWING WITH TWØBAYS’ RICHARD JEFFARES + GF TIPS, RECIPES & MORE FREE & EASY! RISING SUN ISSUE 66 SPRING 2023 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
ONE
FOR YOU SUNSHINE COAST & NOOSA BEER TRAIL CRAFT REVIEWS 116
BETTER BEER THAT IS BETTER
CONTENTS inside...
FEATURES 6 Go one better “Healthier” or more environmentally responsible beer 28 The secret ingredient The modern movement in beer’s essential ingredients 40 Rising sun A definitive guide to The Sunshine Coast and Noosa Beer Trail REGULARS 14 Style shoot “Better for you” beers 18 The Deep Dive Brewer Steve Brockman on brewing sensational saisons 24 Senses Working Overtime Briony Liebich discusses the backbone of beer – malt 60 The Brew Review Featuring 116 craft releases HOMEBREWER 49 Editor’s letter 50 Q&A with John Palmer GF Pale Ale 52 Jake’s Brew Log GF Black IPA 54 Feature GF brewing 57 Recipe GF Helles Lager 58 Club profile BAD Brewers 59 Show us yours Reader’s home brewing set-ups
Spring 2023
“I truly believe that this region has more breweries, more passion and more unique offerings than anywhere else,”
40 6 28 4 www.beerandbrewer.com
Josh Donohoe, Sunshine Coast Craft Beer Tours
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According to the charity organisation Coeliac Australia, about one in 70 Australians are living with Coeliac Disease – the at times chronic condition where one’s immune system reacts abnormally to gluten and therefore to key ingredients found in many beers. And that number balloons out as well if you consider those with gluten sensitivities or people who simply want to extract it out of their diets for lots of different reasons. It’s a phenomenon the Australian craft beer industry has been catering to since 2005 when O’Brien Beer released their gluten free Pale Ale following founder John O’Brien’s Coeliac Disease diagnosis. And it’s a phenomenon that we’re looking at for the first time in major detail in our 16-plus year history this issue. The popularity of gluten free beer in Australia demanded that be the case.
Our cover model this issue is Richard Jeffares who established the gluten free brewing company TWØBAYS in 2018 on the Mornington Peninsula following his own Coeliac Disease diagnosis. After winning multiple accolades in the intervening years, the presence of their Pale Ale in fridges throughout the MCG this year seemed like the ultimate summation of how far gluten free beer has come within our shores, and how widely required it is these days on fair and representative drinks menus.
Alongside a range of experts, we tap Richard’s knowledge at various times throughout this edition. Firstly, as part of our “better for you” beer feature from page 6 and then in our dedicated HomeBrewer section from page 49. That section is dominated by GF brewing where our in-house team guide you through brewing with alternative grains at home and provide multiple GF recipes for you to give a whirl.
Elsewhere, you can get pro brewing tips for tackling saisons, a guide to up your sensory perception for malt-derived characteristics and check out some of the latest advancements in beer ingredients. We’re also continuing our series on official Australian ale trails by hitting the Sunshine Coast and Noosa breweries while our tasting section features 116 craft beers and ciders. This time we’ve paid particular attention to no and low alcohol beers alongside a full spectrum of styles from Australian producers.
I do hope you enjoy what we’ve dished up for you this season and we’re already working away on the next one. Until then, drink good beer.
Cheers, Gifford Lee Editor, Beer & Brewer gifford@beerandbrewer.com @beerandbrewer
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SPRING 2023 3
GO ONE
better
BEER QUALITY WAS ONCE ONLY MEASURED BY THE LIQUID IN THE GLASS. BUT TODAY, WHETHER A BREWERY IS PRODUCING A “HEALTHIER” PRODUCT, OR SOMETHING THAT’S MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE, MANY ARE NOW ACTIVELY PUSHING TO BREW BETTER BEER, AS JONO OUTRED FINDS OUT.
BETTER FOR YOU BEER
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BETTER FOR YOU BEER
“Better for you” beer means different things to different people. For the last couple of decades, the Australian brewing industry has been expanding and diversifying swiftly, with a modern industry offering more range than ever before. Where once that range mostly covered style categories and place of origin, consumers now have a wider scope of products that includes a relatively new category where beers are sold and marketed as being better for you.
From no and low alcohol beers and beer-adjacent products made by brewers – seltzers and hop waters for example – to mid-strength, gluten free, low calorie and low carb, consumers can reliably find a product that better suits their lifestyle. Add to that a shift towards a more ethically conscious world, and the category opens to brewers who consider themselves environmentally responsible, organic, regenerative, B Corp certified, sustainable and so on.
While the category can feel like an expansive mind-field of caveats and subcategorisation, the end goal for these brewers comes down to one thing: brewing better beer. In Australia, a movement is picking up plenty of momentum that is seeing more and more brewers push their businesses to, in one way or another, allow their beers to be enjoyed by more Australians.
THE GROWTH OF BETTER FOR YOU BEER
Whether or not one product or the next is better for you can be highly subjective, especially in a world where social issues like health and fitness, diet, environmental friendliness and reducing waste have become big business. As the brewing industry evolves, expanding and changing, many brewers are putting forward their version of beers that go above and beyond creating great tasting beer.
While the category seems new and progressive, the idea of a “better for you” beer has existed for some time. The first commercially released alcohol-free beer, for example, was developed in the 1970s as larger breweries like Heineken, Weihenstephaner and Carlsberg developed products and have in turn consistently sold them for decades.
That notion of a “healthier” beer has
SPRING 2023 7
Better Beer Middy
Crisp and refreshing with a clean finish, it’s perfect for beer drinkers who are looking for a lower alcohol option without sacrificing taste and quality. Each 355mL can is 0.8 standard drinks, contains zero sugar and less than 1g of carbohydrates.
FOOD MATCH
Pub favourites
ABV: 3.0% Style: Mid-strength Lager
RRP: $16.99 per six-pack betterbeer.com.au
Hop Nation Mind Ya Head
Generously dry hopped with Simcoe, Vic Secret and Galaxy for a refreshing hint of citrus and tropical fruit, this trims back the alcohol but packs all the flavour you’ve come to expect from an XPA. Length and finish is good with a lingering sweetness.
FOOD MATCH
Chicken caesar
ABV: <0.5% Style: Non-alcoholic XPA RRP: $15 per four-pack hopnation.com.au
Young Henrys Stayer
With soft stone fruit and lychee hop aromas from Topaz, Eclipse and Citra Lupomax, this super refreshing midstrength lager with full-strength flavour boasts a bright golden body with a slightly bitter finish. Drink with good friends when you’re thirsty.
FOOD MATCH
Chicken schnitty
ABV: 3.5% Style: Mid-strength Lager
RRP: $24 per six-pack younghenrys.com
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Better Beer
Ginger Beer
A tasty alcoholic ginger beer that hits the spot without obscene amounts of sugar. Effortlessly drinkable with balanced spice, it contains 50% less sugar than your usual alcoholic ginger beer, with only 4g of sugar per 100mL and is gluten free to boot.
FOOD MATCH
Sticky pork ribs
ABV: 4.0% Style: Alcoholic Ginger Beer
RRP: $24.99 per six-pack betterbeer.com.au
BETTER FOR YOU BEER PROMOTION
Better Beer
Zero Carb
Voted #6 on the GABS Hottest 100 list the last two years running, Better Beer’s flagship beer is crisp, clean and refreshing and just perfect for any occasion. It also contains zero carbohydrates, zero sugar, just 87 calories per can and is gluten reduced.
FOOD MATCH
Fresh seafood
ABV: 4.2% $ Style: Lager RRP: $19.99 per six-pack betterbeer.com.au
Molly Rose
Citra Citra
This citrusy IPA is made with both citrus hops and fresh oranges to give it a dry yet fresh finish. Add in notes of peach and pine with some sweet biscuity malt and effervescent carbonation and you’ve got the perfect non-alcoholic beer for a hot day.
FOOD MATCH Beach BBQ
ABV: <0.5% Style: Non-alcoholic Citrus IPA
RRP: $18 per four-pack mollyrosebrewing.com
LOCATION: Bilgola Beach Ocean Pool
PHOTOGRAPHY: Oneill Photographics oneillphotographics.com.au
SPRING 2023 17
THE SUNSHINE COAST & NOOSA BEER TRAIL
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Sun Rising
THE SUNSHINE COAST AND NOOSA BEER TRAIL, OR AUSTRALIA’S CRAFT BEER CAPITAL AS RECENTLY CLAIMED BY THE LOCAL TOURISM BODY, IS HOME TO 21 BREWERIES AND COUNTING. THIS IS NO INSIGNIFICANT FEAT CONSIDERING IN 2016 THERE WAS ONLY ONE, AND THE LOCAL POPULATION IS ONLY JUST OVER 300,000. PERHAPS THERE IS SOMETHING IN THE WATER, OR MAYBE IT’S THE GRAVITATIONAL PULL TO EMBRACE THE AMAZING BEACHES AND LIFESTYLE ON OFFER? WE DIVE DEEPER INTO THE INCREDIBLE GROWTH OF BREWERIES AND QUALITY BEER BEING PRODUCED IN THE REGION WITH LOCAL EXPERT AND BEER TOUR OPERATOR JOSH DONOHOE.
Moving to the Sunshine Coast from Sydney in 2016, there really wasn’t much not to love about the region. Amazing coastline and beaches, hinterland ranges, fresh local produce, relaxed lifestyle, and the word “traffic” wasn’t even part of the local language. But despite all the amazing things on offer, there was something I was missing – a distinct lack of locally produced beer, brewpub venues and a national footy team. Regardless, I put that small detail aside and set up digs.
The region definitely had some history in local breweries however, with Eumundi Brewery claiming first call back in 1988, but sadly this ended in 1991 as it went bust and closed up shop. The beer continued to be brewed under licence by CUB, before disappearing off the radar and lying dormant until recently coming back to life in 2017 with the support of Chuck Hahn, Lion and the Imperial Hotel.
A few years later in 1993, Sunshine Coast Brewery opened its doors in Kunda Park, which is now owned by local legend Greg Curran and has now ticked over its 22 years of beer service. This was the only local brewery in the region when I arrived, and while it had its presence on tap in a few local bars, the sad reality was that most venues were pumping out XXXX and had little interest in craft beer that may have upset the status quo of the local drinkers or cost a few dollars more than their subsidised kegs and tap contracts.
THE SUNSHINE COAST & NOOSA BEER TRAIL
SPRING 2023 41
The Brew Review SEAS ONAL FO CUS
Australia has had a long and rich history of lower alcohol beers hitting the mark when once a fullstrength only could. Think Little Creatures’ Rogers’, Colonial’s Small Ale and Balter’s Captain Sensible as just some that adorn the walls of the Australian mid-strength hall of fame. And that proud brewing record continues to be built on as more and more breweries offer sessionable options across the style spectrum to a public that are singing out for them. So we thought, as we emerge out of winter’s dark beer territory and into spring, that it was a good time to take a snapshot of what local breweries are doing in this space as our overarching focus for this issue’s tasting. And we’re glad we did as the following pages show those seeking lower alcohol craft options are extremely well catered for. But if these beers aren’t your thing, fret not as we also sampled a wide array of other styles too. If you’re a brewery not receiving our invite email to partake in our tastings but would like to, email us at info@beerandbrewer.com
The Panel
Jono Outred,
WA
Based in Margaret River, Jono is a beer writer that predominantly covers the South West of WA. He’s been involved in the state’s beer industry in various capacities since 2011.
David Ward, ACT
After 15 years in the craft beer world, David is now working for Gravity Seltzer. However, you can often still find him in a front bar enjoying a craft beer or three.
Tina Panoutsos, VIC
One of Australia’s leading beer judges, Tina is a beer sensory expert with over 30 years’ experience in the brewing industry in roles across technical and commercial functions.
Tiffany Waldron, VIC
A Certified Cicerone®, national beer brands manager for Beer Fans and Pink Boots Australia president, Tiffany is focused on making changes in the world of beer through education and furthering beer culture beyond standard boundaries.
Scott Hargrave, NSW/QLD
Scott is Balter Brewing’s multi-award winning head brewer and a regular on some of Australia’s and the world’s most prestigious judging panels including the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup
Josh Quantrill, NSW
Josh is a Certified Cicerone® currently working at 4 Pines Brewing who has extensive experience in the beer industry in the UK and Australia.
Ian Kingham, NSW
That Beer Bloke, Ian’s decorated beer career has included judging at Australia’s best competitions while he’s currently the Sydney Royal’s Chair of Judges.
Michael Capaldo, NSW
National sales manager at Hop Products Australia, Michael is a qualified and experienced brewer and an accomplished beer judge (GABS, World Beer Cup, Indies, AIBA etc).
Jamie Webb-Smith, NSW
Previously a brewer at The Australian Brewery, Jamie is currently head brewer at Yulli’s Brews in Sydney. He’s a home brewer turned pro, who completed the NSW TAFE micro-brewing course.
Benji Bowman, NSW
With six years of industry experience in Australian craft beer and cider, Benji is now the state sales manager at Local Drinks Collective, working to increase the footprint and awareness of independent liquor in Australia.
Jake Brandish, WA
Beer & Brewer’s HomeBrewer editor, Jake has a post-grad Dip in Brewing, is a BJCP judge, has brewed commercially and is an all round beer geek.
Mark Dowell, ACT
A beer broker for BentSpoke with a background in liquor retail, Mark is always trying new beers while appreciating the classics that brought us here
What’s our Seasonal Focus?
Lower alcohol beers
Craig Butcher, SA
Based in the Barossa Valley, Craig has 20-plus years’ experience in the liquor industry including winery cellarhand, tastings and sales, newbie homebrewer and beer-mad bottleshop guy.
Alice
Lynch, WA
A Perth-based sales rep for Beerfarm, Alice’s start in the craft beer world came by slinging pints at Two Birds in Melbourne. She’s here to force an end to random men being shocked that women love beer.
Briony Liebich, SA
After leading the sensory program at West End Brewery, beer writer, national beer and cider judge, educator and Certified Cicerone® Briony runs Flavour Logic to boost tasting skills and sensory quality programs.
Lindsay Astarita,
VIC
Certified Cicerone®, beer judge and the sensory and quality coordinator at Stomping Ground, Lindsay is passionate about beer education and all things quality.
Tom
Wood, SA
Previously at Bright Brewery and Little Creatures, Tom is now Mismatch’s head brewer with a B.Sc (Hons) in Environmental Science and an IBD Diploma in Brewing. He has experience judging several beer competitions nationwide.
Alli Macdonald, NSW
Alli has had brewing roles within the beer and cider industry at CUB, Matilda Bay and Little Creatures. Currently Head Brewer at Malt Shovel, she also has industry judging experience and is a Certified Beer Server.
Not all submissions to our tasting panel are featured in the following pages. This could be because of space restrictions, that we already reviewed it in the recent past or the product did not meet our panel’s requirements. We’re not in the business of running any one down, and if there is a chance to speak with a brewery about issues that may have arisen during a tasting, then we will endeavour to pass that information on in the interest of transparency.
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Panel’s Top Picks
La Sirène Convergence (2022)
ABV: 3.0%
Style: Mixed Ferment Wild Ale
A now annual collaboration with Bannockburn Vineyards, this 2022 brew was 100% barrelfermented on Chardonnay lees resulting in an exceptional wild ale. Complex aromas of lemon and lime peel, pink peppercorns, dill, bread dough and mild farmyard funk showcase the vinous microflora. There’s a lovely soft sourness – like a lemon tart – with a pleasant dry and long finish. Enjoy like you would a low alcohol sparkling wine.
Glass: Stemmed Wine
Food: Spring greens risotto lasirene.com.au
Bailey Brewing
Light Lager
ABV: 3.0%
Style: Lower alcohol Lager
Low-carb and low alcohol will be a drawcard for many when it comes to this, but importantly it isn’t a beer low in flavour. Perfectly equipped to satisfy anyone with a craving for lager, this interpretation is exceptionally clean with stunning brightness and medium carbonation. Sweet, bready malt characters are a focal point while bitterness is just so alongside noble hop characters and a clean yeast profile that has this beer teetering between Euro and Aussie lager territory.
Glass: Pilsner
Food: Grilled white fish & salad baileybrewingco.com.au
Du Cane Brewing
Ascending Falling Mountain
ABV: 4.8%
Style: Pilsner
A well-executed German-style delight, it’s straw-like in colour with a creamy white head as light herbs and sweet malt aromas entice you to take a sip. On the palate an array of hay, spice and floral notes complement a medium hop bitterness. Clean, crisp and wellattenuated, it leaves a lingering bitterness in the aftertaste and with a light body and high carbonation, this Pils showcases German malts and hops at their best.
Glass: Pilsner
Food: Sashimi ducanebrewing.com.au
Dollar Bill Brewing
Candy Paint (2023)
ABV: 6.8%
Style: BA Cherry Sour
An incredible beer which makes you want to return to its well over and over again. Strawberry red in colour with a slight haze, the on point carbonation almost ensures the pink blush head returns as quickly as it dissipates. Fresh sweet cherry and Brett aromas are quickly joined by pomegranate and spiced orange to create a fantastic bouquet while those cherry sweets continue onto the palate and are perfectly balanced by a drying sharpness. A subtle but definitely apparent phenolic, smoky Brett profile helps round edges and makes the sour lolly profile more and more appealing.
Glass: Teku
Food: Cherry pie dollarbill.com.au
SEAS ONAL FOCUS
TASTING SPRING 2023 61
SEAS ONAL FOCUS