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SWEET DREAMS OUR AFFINITY FOR DESSERT BEERS
SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES
S I E G N A H C
BREWING CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY
ISSN 1834-5115
0 1
BEERS & CIDERS
REVIEWED 9
771834 511017
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PLUS! RICH WATKINS’ BEER MEMORIES | NEW BREW TECH | 5 DIY RECIPES
CONTENTS
inside... Autumn 2021
FEATURES 14 Dessert beers The taste for sweet beer is booming. We speak with two brewers who are fuelling that sugar rush Down Under.
26 Brewing equipment Check out some of the best brewing equipment on the market, for the small guy right through to the big player.
48 Herbs and Spices Have you considered introducing herbs and spices to add something new to your home brewing?
51 Show us Yours A new section where we showcase our reader’s home brewing set ups.
52 Recipes A Golden Gumboots winning recipe from Andrew Childs plus Coopers’ Hazy XPA.
36 Women in brewing We focus on gender equality in the brewing industry and how the doors of diversity are opening to a new generation.
54 Packaging sustainability A look at some of the packaging products that are allowing breweries to minimise their environmental footprints.
HOMEBREWER 42 Welcome 43 Letters 44 Q&A Homebrewing legend John Palmer looks at Oat Cream IPAs and provides a recipe so you can make one at home.
46 Jake’s Brew Log Jake Brandish focuses on IPAs plus dishes up a Cowaramup Brewing recipe.
4 www.beerandbrewer.com
48
14 “You might be a huge cheesecake fan and then you see a cheesecake beer and something in you just goes ‘wow’. It’s like you’re already experiencing emotions before you’ve even tried the beer,” Dereck Hales, Bad Shepherd
26 “With all confidence I can say that Australian beers rate just as well as any on the world stage,” Tina Panoutsos
REGULARS 6 Gift ideas 8 What’s on guide 10 Beer memories BentSpoke’s Rich Watkins cycles down his beer memory lane
12 Behind the beer XPAs with Prancing Pony’s Frank Samson
24 Style shoot 26 A pint with Tina Panoutsos, Sensory expert
62 Food match recipes 66 Tasting notes Our expert panel review 106 beverages, where our key seasonal focus is on XPAs.
81 Competition 82 Directory
Go to page 81 to win craft glassware and see your review in print!
39 10 AUTUMN 2021 5
BEHIND THE BEER
The Pony X-PRESS
it into the style book, so it’s very much open to a brewer’s interpretation. Of course, marketing can have a big influence on the final profile too. Against that background, pitching one’s own XPA can be challenging when there’s quite a bit of argument out there where it should sit. We decided to move our XPA closer to a Session IPA. We wanted both the appearance and the flavour to convey a full flavoured refreshing ale that’s very easy drinking at the same time. We gave it as much traditional Pale Ale malt in the
IN OUR CONTINUING SERIES THAT TAKES A CLOSER LOOK AT A PARTICULAR STYLE OF BEER FEATURED IN OUR TASTING REVIEW SECTION, WE FOCUS ON THE EXTRA PALE ALE (XPA) IN THIS ISSUE AND CHAT WITH PRANCING PONY’S DIRECTOR AND HEAD BREWER FRANK SAMSON.
grist bill as possible (70%) to give it a nice
W
as our stronger Pale Ales. The Beer finishes
malt backbone but keep the colour light. The rest of the malt bill is taken up in equal parts by Pilsner malt and Light Crystal. A simple grist bill really works well. Foam retention is great and the beer laces nicely, just as good just a smidgen over 2 Plato so it’s technically
ith no official
drinking perception. This style is generally
quite dry, but it retains significant malt
guide to bind
very smashable and not filling. Its hoppiness
flavour nevertheless. For flavour hops we use
it, an XPA is
is usually kept in check, which adds to the
Citra and Mandarina Bavaria, for the citrusy
still, despite
appeal for people who are not necessarily IPA
backbone, and Simcoe to give it a little bit of
the ongoing
drinkers at other times.”
a fruity/earthy edge and overall hop balance.
debate, whatever
Frank’s own XPA Session Ale has been
On technical parameters, our XPA falls right
a brewer determines it should be for their
capped at the more moderate end of the
into the Session IPA category (as per the
market – within the broad parameters of a
XPA ABV scale, and, at 4.1%, lends itself to
BA style book), except perhaps on the hop
hoppy Pale Ale to a not-so-hoppy IPA and
sessionability with a light to moderate body
assertiveness, which we deliberately kept
somewhere in the low four to high five per
and a nice refreshing hop profile.
in check so it’s not an ‘in your face’ beer.
cent territory and in varying shades of pale.
So much for the challenges of brewing an
biggest selling craft beers in Australia as
WHEN YOU SET OUT TO BREW THE XPA SESSION ALE, WHAT WERE YOUR INTENTIONS FOR IT AND HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT ACHIEVING IT?
they get gulped up year round as the ideal
As the XPA style is understood to sit between
gateway drink for those dipping their toes
an American Pale Ale and an IPA we intended
into craft or for those aficionados looking
to capture the XPA audience as well as
for that ‘in between’ quencher. And the
those in favour of a Session IPA. Whilst our
beautiful thing about the fact so many
XPA comes in at 52 IBUs, it’s
different interpretations are on the market
not overly dry hopped. It thus
is there’s an XPA for everyone – whether
appeals to both – those seeking
they’re in North Queensland or Tasmania
an easy but nicely hopped
or whether it’s the height of Summer or the
Pale Ale and those who’d
depths of Winter.
rather go for an approachable
Although these loose rules even get bent from time to time too! But whichever way the style is rendered, multiple variations are now some of the
Frank Samson, director and head brewer
Session IPA.
at South Australia’s Prancing Pony Brewery sums the style up as thus: “This style tends to have moderate to strong citrusy and/or fruity hop aroma and flavour – rather than a dank one – and a lighter body than an American Pale Ale or an IPA. “This makes it an appealing, refreshing
WHAT ARE THE KEY CHALLENGES WHEN BREWING THIS XPA AND HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE? The XPAs in the market can
go-to ale. Its lighter colour, as some brewers
vary from low 4% ABV to high
would argue, adds to the refreshing, easy
5% ABV. The XPA has not made
12 www.beerandbrewer.com
XPA – a style that has some hotly debated perceptions around it. May the punter be the judge.
Prancing Pony’s XPA Session Ale Malts: Pale Ale, Pilsner, Light Crystal Hops: Citra, Mandarina Bavaria, Simcoe Plato: 2°P Bitterness: 52 IBU ABV: 4.1% What our tasting panel said: “In a style that is still so very open to the interpretation and whims of a brewer, the team at Prancing Pony have landed an easy drinking and lower alcohol Pale Ale, that drinks fuller than its stats predict, ticking the “extra” box of an XPA with flavour.”
Go to page 76 for the full review.
BEHIND THE BEER
“THE PERFECT SETTING FOR THIS BEER IS A FRIDAY AFTERNOON IN YOUR FAVOURITE WATERING HOLE WITH YOUR FRIENDS. ESPECIALLY ON A HOT DAY, YOU CAN HAVE A FEW AT THE 4.1 % ABV LEVEL WITHOUT MISSING OUT ON A GENEROUS HOP FLAVOUR EXPERIENCE. IT’S BOTH A REAL THIRST QUENCHER AS WELL AS A TASTE TEASER,” FRANK SAMSON
AUTUMN 2021 13
DESSERT BEERS
AS THE PROGRESSION OF BEER PREFERENCE MOVES AT PACE, WE’RE INCREASINGLY SEEING CONSUMERS ADDING SWEETER BEERS TO THEIR REPERTOIRE OF DRINK CHOICES. HAS IT BEEN A NATURAL PROGRESSION TO THE SWEETER END OF THE SPECTRUM, MUCH LIKE HAZY IPAS HAVE EXPERIENCED OVER WEST COAST VARIANTS? HAS COVID-19 ADVANCED THEIR POPULARITY QUICKER THAN THEY WOULD HAVE OTHERWISE? OR ARE BREWERS JUST NATURALLY PRONE TO PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF WHAT THEIR CRAFT CAN ACHIEVE? GIFFORD LEE SPOKE WITH TWO BREWERS WHO ARE FUELLING THE SUGAR RUSH DOWN UNDER TO FIND OUT WHY.
AUTUMN 2021 15
DESSERT BEERS
I
t wasn’t that long ago, 10 years give or take, that it was all about bitterness and maximising IBUs in big IPAs in the United States. Then, as the East Coast variants started to sway tastes, with their haziness and barely there bitterness, the sweet side of
the ledger began to take charge. Now the pointy end of that sugar rush, dessert beers, in their many guises, are having their cake and making us eat it too as we get high on sweet, big booze with a nostalgic bent. But this progression shouldn’t surprise, or the fact that the beer industry is capitalising on our sweet
Photo credit: Lewis Alexander
teeth. Remember, many of the world’s biggest drinks makers peddle fizzy sugar water and have done so for decades. Pastry stouts, milkshake IPAs, ice cream sours and the like had been growing in popularity in recent years and with or without COVID, sales of them may have skyrocketed in 2020 anyway. But it appears the global pandemic has propelled them into the drink choice repertoires of a lot more people in a very short space of time. Just as sales of junk food increased during periods of lockdown, some brewers are reporting massive spikes in sales of their sweeter beers. And it’s easy to imagine why: people can’t go out; they’re seeking new creature comforts to replace lost ones; they’re after nostalgia; and, last but certainly not least, they want big booze. America’s Brewers Association announced recently sales of sweet stouts rose eight per cent in 2020 compared to 2019 while Tavour, that country’s largest online craft beer retailer, rushed to add ‘Pastry Stout’ and ‘Imperial Pastry Stout’ to their style categories as search enquiries took off. The proof, ahem, will be in the pudding whether this trend will continue when the world returns to normal but in Australia at least we don’t seem to be skipping on dessert just yet.
SHEPHERDING YOU INTO TEMPTATION For Bad Shepherd Brewing in Cheltenham, 2020 was the year they went, inadvertently, from a brewery largely known for their paler beers to the dark beer brewery choice of many. That journey began in the Summer of 2019 when a release in their Brew Crew Series (where permanent staff members get to make their own beer) hit the sweet spot. The Peanut Butter Porter* was the creation of their previous head chef, whose wife hailed from Ohio where the Buckeye – a peanut butter fudge ball dipped in chocolate – was a traditional favourite. The brew crew reimagined the treat in beer form and it took off.
16 www.beerandbrewer.com
Impulse buying Australia’s largest online craft beer retailer Beer Cartel has seen huge growth in the sales of dessert beers and adjunct-laden styles in the past 12 months. Co-owner Richard Kelsey said 30 to 40 per cent of all new beers sold on the site are now adjunct-laden and where they used to buy a single case of these types of beers they are, at times, purchasing as much as 10 times that amount. “It is the new trend and in a lot of ways overlaps with the haze craze of New England IPAs, particularly for the likes of milkshake IPAs,” he said. “Customers are constantly amazed with the ability of different beers to highlight flavours not normally associated with beer as breweries push the envelope in what can be produced. The sweeter dessert styles also lend themselves to consumers who previously were put off by the bitter taste of the more traditional hoppier, bitter styles. “I believe they are here to stay. The sweetness and lack of bitterness of the styles mean that people new to craft beer are less put off. In the same way that hazy IPAs changed people’s perception of hops, dessert and adjunct-based beers are just the next step in the evolution of beer.”
BREWING FEATURE
36 www.beerandbrewer.com
BREWING FEATURE
The new normal
LIKE SO MANY OTHER ASPECTS OF OUR SOCIETY, THE BEER AND BREWING INDUSTRY HAS A LONG WAY TO TRAVEL TO REACH GENDER EQUALITY. BUT THAT JOURNEY HAS BEEN HAPPENING AND WHILE THE TASK IS FAR FROM OVER DIVERSITY IS GROWING AND ACCEPTANCE IS BECOMING MORE NORMAL EVERYDAY. WHILE THE INDUSTRY IS A WIDE AND VARIED ONE, WE NARROWED IT DOWN AND SPOKE WITH SEVERAL BREWERS WHO HAVE WITNESSED CHANGE TAKING PLACE FIRST HAND AS WELL AS PINK BOOTS SOCIETY AUSTRALIA PRESIDENT TIFFANY WALDRON. BY GIFFORD LEE
F
or the last half of my 10-year-old son’s life he and I have often watched women’s sport together, both on the television and live at the ground, as the many sporting codes in Australia finally got on board the bullet train bound for gender equality. My hope at the start was he would simply appreciate women
were damn good at the likes of football and cricket and that you could watch these heroes live on the box too. But now, because the television companies, the sporting organisations, the media and the women themselves have invested in raising the profile of women’s sport in this country, he’s as much at home barracking for the females as he is for the men. He doesn’t know any different and certainly can’t picture my world when I was the same age he is now. While there’s still much to do to even the playing field, like seeing more female coaches, administrators, funding and pay equity, the journey has begun and fingers crossed his generation and those that follow carry it on. The same thing has been happening in the beer and brewing industry in Australia as multiple breweries, organisations and individuals have banged down the doors of diversity in an attempt to let people, themselves included, walk through and hopefully find an altogether new reality where one can learn, grow and prosper – regardless of gender.
AUTUMN 2021 37
FEATURE
Spice up your life FOR THE SAME REASONS WE USE THEM FOR COOKING, HERBS AND SPICES ARE GREAT WAYS TO INTRODUCE NEW AND INTERESTING ELEMENTS TO HOME BREWING. SO LET’S LOOK AT SPICING THINGS UP A LITTLE.
down the drain. When thinking what to use, step back from brewing for a second and consider what types of herbs and spices go well with different types of foods. Bold and flavoursome foods tend to work better with bolder herbs and spices – like beef with soy or chilli, and subtle, more delicate flavours would therefore go with the same. Stouts and IPAs are used quite a bit with these bolder
THE SPICE OF LIFE
berries, juniper and others. Herbs and local
flavours like coffee and more flavoursome
The use of herbs and spices in brewing goes
‘weeds’ were used extensively too and bog
fruits, or the addition would overpower the
back in history thousands of years, pretty
myrtle gets a lot of mentions in historical
beer. When designing your brew, probably
much to the beginning of beer itself. They
texts. Sounds yummy! Herbs and spices are
the first thing to decide on is which herb or
were one of beer’s main elements to give
still used in brewing these days most notably
spice you want to experiment with and why
it flavour and to balance out the malt, or
so in the likes of Belgian Wit beers, Christmas
and then pick a base beer that you think may
whatever fermentables were being used,
ales, Pumpkin ales, vanilla stouts and a
be complementary. You could even get your
which is what we use hops for today. In most
myriad of new wave specialty brews.
herb or spice and spike a few small glasses
likelihood the herb and spice additions would
of different types of beers to see what you
have made the beverage palatable, as it may
EASY TIGER
like the taste of. This will give you a good
have been quite a nasty brew otherwise!
When you start playing around with herbs
grounding (pardon the pun) on where to
Both herbs and spices were such a large part
and spices in your brewing it becomes
start. At a home brew comp once, a mate of
of day-to-day living back then and local
apparent pretty fast that one must err
mine brewed a green chilli beer. Now, I don’t
produce was obviously the only option. Hence
on the side of caution as it’s very easy
really like chilli beers at all, but this was
many beers and different beverages that
to overdo it – especially with spices like
outstanding. It was more aroma than flavour,
later evolved into beer were brewed with the
nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom. Trust
which was wonderfully fresh and zesty
likes of dates, nutmeg, vanilla pods, heather,
me, an over-spiced beer will probably go
but didn’t take your throat out! Hi Asher!
48 HomeBrewer
FEATURE
“DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY RELEASED A TV SERIES CALLED ‘BREWMASTERS’ WHERE FOUNDER SAM CALAGIONE AND HIS TEAM INVESTIGATED THE VARIETY OF BREWING INGREDIENTS FROM THE PAST INCLUDING TAMARILLO AND POHUTUKAWA (NZ CHRISTMAS TREE) BEER”! The fresh green chilli was so apparent and
properties of a bittering agent to bring some
modern (in the thousands of years of brewing
wonderfully pungent, but was not so hot on
balance and, after all, brewing a successful
anyway) form of beer brewed in the Middle
the palate. A credit to the brewer who really
beer is all about balance. When beer was first
Ages was gruit. This crude beer was made
knew his method and knew exactly what he
created thousands of years ago, they used all
with bog myrtle, juniper, wild rosemary,
wanted from the beer.
sorts of products to make it. Not only were
ginger and more and mixed with the
various types of grains and cereals used, but
fermentable starch to make a muddy brew.
BEFORE HOPS
all manner of native flavours were added.
The malt that was used would have more than
If you’ve ever brewed a beer and either
Heather was widely used in Scottish and UK
likely been dried over an open fire, giving it
chose or forgot to add the hops, you would
ales, as were bramble nettles, rosemary and
a smoky flavour. The malts that were left on
have found out it was a pretty bland,
more. It wasn’t until much later in beer’s
the fire a little too long were also chucked
cloying beverage. Beer really does need the
evolution that hops were used. A more
in, so strong melanoidins and specialty type malts were used too. Whilst talking about medieval drinks, braggot is another common
“GINGER BEER IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR NON-BEER BEERS AROUND!”
one. This drink is a beer made with grains, honey and herbs and spices.
A TIME AND A PLACE Once you have selected your desired herb and/or spice, it’s time to add it in to your recipe formulation. It’s important that a bit of research is done prior to adding your extra ingredients and, with most things in life, timing is everything. The vast majority of spices are added at the very end of the boil or just after primary fermentation has slowed down, depending on the herb or spice you are adding. By adding too early in the boil, you may promote some bittering or off flavour compounds that you may not have thought about. Think about adding garlic to a dish. If you add it early, the garlic introduces a completely different flavour profile than if you added it relatively late. The raw garlic versus the cooked will make
AUTUMN 2021 49
PACKAGING SUSTAINABILITY
“PAKTECH HANDLES ARE JUST PART OF THE GOOD STORY WE TELL, ALONG WITH SOLAR POWER, WASTEWATER AND THE INCREASED FOCUS ON BREWING EFFICIENCIES,” MICHAEL ‘MC’ CAMERON
54 www.beerandbrewer.com
PACKAGING SUSTAINABILITY
LEADERS OF THE PACK BREWERIES ARE CONSTANTLY STRIVING TO DO THEIR BIT, AND MORE, TO MINIMISE THEIR ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINTS. WE TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE PACKAGING PRODUCTS AND COMPANIES THAT ARE ALLOWING THEM TO DO THAT. BY GIFFORD LEE
S
ince founding in 2014,
“Distance and heat are the two major
Pirate Life Brewing has
issues, and also getting customers to
experienced incredible
understand how unstable beer is at the
growth. From 600,000
wrong temperatures.”
litres in its first full year of operation to approximately
For a country as large, and with as varied a climate, as Australia, this makes
11 million litres of total capacity today – the
sense. There’s also the rugged Australian
South Australian brewery has gone further
environment to consider.
and faster than many of its peers. Add in top
“We started out with 100 per cent cans
five spots in the GABS Hottest 100 as early as
in our range, and PakTech was always part
2015, and countless medals at Australian and
of our plans,” MC said. “The handles just
MC sees extending into the future. When
international beer awards, and Pirate Life is
look great, they are strong enough to handle
asked where he saw beer packaging moving
the true double-threat: award-winning beers
the tough Australian environment, and
over the next five to 10 years, he predicted,
with wide-spread distribution.
customers really like them because they look
“the development of more sustainable
neat and tidy on shelves and allow the can
products in all forms of packaging.”
“I don’t think we are more unique than any other brewery,” founder Michael ‘MC’ Cameron said. “But we did have an intense focus on quality when we first began.” One look at Pirate Life’s beers—both core and limited releases—shows that MC isn’t
In fact, it’s this trend in sustainability that
artwork to shine through.” Another big part of Pirate Life’s
FIT, FORM AND FUNCTION
reasons for choosing PakTech handles are
As soon as PakTech entered the Australian
their sustainability.
market they quickly grew as one of the
“PakTech handles are just part of the
preferred packaging choices for the local craft
kidding. Growth like theirs isn’t an accident,
good story we tell, along with solar power,
beer industry. The fit, form and function of
and keeping a consistent, flavourful product
wastewater and the increased focus on
their handles were obvious advantages, but
is a big part of the equation. And, according
brewing efficiencies. ”
the sustainability of them are perhaps what
to MC, a big part of accomplishing that comes down to packaging in cans. “As you know, there are a lot of pluses to using cans, but quality is the key one.” He identified shielding the beer from light
That’s right—even though the old-time
has tipped the scale in their favour when
pirates made some pretty dodgy decisions
breweries like Pirate Life have considered one
when it came to their own health, the
product over another.
health of others, and the health of their
Since beginning to use 100 per cent
surroundings, Pirate Life are different.
recycled high-density polyethylene (HDPE),
to prevent skunking and creating an airtight
Along with solely using the 100 per cent
PakTech has repurposed over a half a billion
seal to prevent oxidation as the major reasons
recycled and recyclable handles from
recycled milk containers into packaging
why craft breweries have been moving into
PakTech, they’ve added solar panels to their
handles which has kept over 36 million
cans for years. But there are also unique
breweries’ roofs and installed a full effluent
kilograms of plastic out of the waste stream –
challenges to brewing and selling beer in
treatment plant at their Port Adelaide
or 12 hectares of land from needing to be used
Australia that Pirate Life needed to consider.
brewery to responsibly treat wastewater.
for landfill waste.
AUTUMN 2021 55
BREWING FEATURE
BREWING FEATURE
The new normal
LIKE SO MANY OTHER ASPECTS OF OUR SOCIETY, THE BEER AND BREWING INDUSTRY HAS A LONG WAY TO TRAVEL TO REACH GENDER EQUALITY. BUT THAT JOURNEY HAS BEEN HAPPENING AND WHILE THE TASK IS FAR FROM OVER DIVERSITY IS GROWING AND ACCEPTANCE IS BECOMING MORE NORMAL EVERYDAY. WHILE THE INDUSTRY IS A WIDE AND VARIED ONE, WE NARROWED IT DOWN AND SPOKE WITH SEVERAL BREWERS WHO HAVE WITNESSED CHANGE TAKING PLACE FIRST HAND AS WELL AS PINK BOOTS SOCIETY AUSTRALIA PRESIDENT TIFFANY WALDRON. BY GIFFORD LEE
F
WIN CRAFT GLASSWARE & HAVE YOUR REVIEW PUBLISHED (see page 81)
or the last half of my 10-year-old son’s life he and
INCLUDING
I have often watched women’s sport together, both
on the television and live at the ground, as the many sporting codes in Australia finally got on board the bullet train bound for gender equality. My hope at the start was he would simply appreciate women
were damn good at the likes of football and cricket and that you could watch these heroes live on the box too. But now, because the television companies, the sporting organisations, the media and the women themselves have invested in raising the profile of women’s sport in this country, he’s as much at home barracking for the females as he is for the men. He doesn’t know any different and certainly can’t picture my world when I was the same age he is now. While there’s still much to do to even the playing field, like seeing more female coaches, administrators, funding and pay equity, the
ISSUE 56 AUTUMN 2021
journey has begun and fingers crossed his generation PRICE $9.95 (NZand $11.95)those that follow carry it on.
WIN CRAFT GLASSWARE & HAVE YOUR REVIEW PUBLISHED (see page 81)
SWEET DREAMS
The same thing has been happening in the beer and brewing industry in Australia as multiple breweries, organisations and
INCLUDING
individuals have banged down the doors of diversity in an attempt to let people, themselves included, walk through and hopefully find an altogether new reality where one can learn, grow and prosper –
OUR AFFINITY FOR DESSERT BEERS
regardless of gender.
36
www.beerandbrewer.com
AUTUMN 2021
37
ISSUE 56 AUTUMN 2021 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
SWEET DREAMS
SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES
OUR AFFINITY FOR DESSERT BEERS
SPICE IT UP HOME BREW WITH HERBS & SPICES
CHANGE IS
BREWING
CHANGE IS
BREWING
CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY
CLOSING THE GENDER GAP IN THE BEER INDUSTRY
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